The Word Ha Noi February 2012 Issue

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HANOI EDITION FEBRUARY 2012

THE LOVE

ISSUE NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

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The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL

Contents

wordhanoi.com

FEBRUARY 2012

KAITLIN REES

IAN PAYNTON

Managing Editor ian@wordhanoi.com

Staff Writer kaitlin@wordhanoi.com

DAVID STOUT

PAOLO MALING

Deputy Editor david.stout@wordhanoi.com

Art Director paolo@wordhcmc.com

AARON JOEL SANTOS

NGUYEN TAN LOC

Photo Editor aaron@wordhanoi.com

Layout Designer loc@wordhcmc.com

DOMINIC BLEWETT

PHI NGUYEN THUY LINH Intern linh@wordhanoi.com

Staff Photographer dominic@wordhanoi.com

028

054

NICK ROSS

HOA LE

Chief Editor & Deputy Director nick@wordhanoi.com

Staff Writer hoale@wordhanoi.com

ADMINISTRATION DUONG VY BAO

LE DANG PHUONG TRANG

General Director bao@wordhanoi.com

Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

ADVERTISING CHAU THI HUONG GIANG

NGUYEN THUC DOAN HIEN

Sales Manager & Office Manager giang@wordhanoi.com

Graphic Designer hien@wordhcmc.com

050

034

060

HUYNH QUANG HAU Advert Designer artwork@wordhcmc.com

004 l The Prelude SUBSCRIPTIONS

THE TALK

hai@wordhanoi.com

For advertising enquiries please call Giang on +84 93464 0668 or Bao on +84 902 361561 Word would like to thank Carolyn Shine, Douglas Pyper, Koki Smith, Joe Ruelle, Nguyen Phuong Linh, Huong Vu Lan, Hai Vu, Shahar Lubin, Vincent Bertholon, Roz Plotzker, Philip Burnett, Debbie Clare, FMP, Truong @ Bookworm and the City Singles for their contribution to this issue Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word (Ho Chi Minh city và HaNoi) của C.ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

2 | The Word February 2012

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Chi Nhánh Công Ty CP TM–DV– QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 54/26 Nguyễn Cư Trinh, P.PNL, Q. 1, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 / Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com

Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 102–2010/CXB/21–03/LĐ ngày 20/01/2010 Quyết định xuất bản số 399 QĐCN/LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 16/01/2011 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

007 l The Big Five 008 l Just In 012 l The Buzz 018 l In the Papers 020 l Calendar 022 l Overscene

FEATURES 028 SCHOOL

OF HARD KNOCKS

An insight into Vietnam’s signature martial art

050 BATTAMBANG Cambodia's second largest city is starting to open up to tourism

054 INDIAN

DAWN

A profile of Hanoi’s Indian community

060 CREATIVE

INKING

Hanoi’s growing tattoo culture

COLUMNS 072 l Destination Zero 086 l Medical Buff 087 l Music Buff 088 l Cinema Buff 089 l Book Buff 093 l Food Buff

CITY GUIDE

INSIDER

TIENG VIET

014 l Ourman

HO CHI MINH CITY

On the woes of economy class travel

100 l The Local Fixer

032 l Many Faces

Insight on Saigon’s production pulse

The heart doctor

064 l Mystery Diner Korean gravy noodle feast

065 l Street Snacker Baby I like it raw

Family Guy Mania Answers See p112 for the original puzzle 1) Gas 2) 7 3) Glen Quagmire 4) Horace 5) True 6) Kisstock 7) S.S. Stronger than Superman, Batman, Spiderman and the Hulk 8) Daggermouth 9) Ye Old Pube 10) True 11) Death broke his ankle 12) An evil monkey 13) Loose Lois 14) Peter, Lois and Meg 15) A moat 16) A brand new car 17) A giant robot 18) Toad 19) Drug searching 20) Cheesy Charlie's

102 l Food lover’s lane Alleys + seafood = magic

FINAL SAY 110 l Bursting with Bubbly Champagne is in February 2012 The Word | 3

The Prelude H

anoi and I hit it off from the moment we met — just outside Noi Bai airport.

On that occasion, we spent two weeks together. It was 10 days more than scheduled and more than enough time for her to claim a piece of me. During our days we explored. In the evenings we ate. I would watch her sleep and wake up early to see her eyes open. It was routine fuelled by charm and addiction. I tried to leave. She made me stay. Call it a holiday romance — I’d say love at first sight.

I’ve since been home and back twice. I missed Hanoi like a lover each time and I’m about to feel it all again. Because, in that typical transient fashion, the person walking into the sunset with a passport full of visas is me.

Time spent on Word has given me a unique position from which to learn about Hanoi. It’s been rewarding, frustrating, exhilarating and exhausting, just like the city itself. And despite editing 1,344 pages of content on what I now call the charming beast on what I now call the charming beast, I still have much more to learn, more people to meet and so many food spots to find. So while the love affair is over for now, Hanoi and I will meet again — you could say I’m under the thumb.

Don’t forget to help us start a new love affair this month, by getting involved in our annual City Singles shindig. Just read the short Q&As and tell us who you want to send on a blind date by any means necessary — sms (0933 371693), twitter (@wordvietnam), email or even loud speaker.

Thanks to everyone that has helped make my job easier in putting these pages together over the last year — and thanks to those that made it harder; there’s nothing like a challenge.

Please continue to email editor@wordhanoi.com with your feedback and tip offs, and follow me on Twitter — @ianpaynton — to keep in touch. Happy Year of the Dragon nhe.

INBOX

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo: Aaron Joel Santos Design: DH Advertising

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL US AT nick@wordhanoi.com

BIKER BLOGS

I'm Huong from Hanoi. My friend and I created an ibikehanoi blog (kinda streetstyle on bikes) to promote urban cycling in Hanoi. We are regular readers of Word Ha Noi, and find it really informative, even for Vietnamese like me. Well-written articles, clean layout and cool covers!

We’d love to have you look at our blog, and if you like and find values in it, maybe you can support and help us spread the word. Many thanks and have a good day. — Huong @ ibikehanoi. blogspot.com

NEW LOGO YES OR NO?

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HANOI EDITION JANUARY 2012

The new design of the mag is nice. Not sure I like the logo as much.

They still feel quite separate, but it’s still an improvement. The old logo was kind of dated, although vintage! — Jen

RED RIVER

DIARIES NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

4 | The Word February 2012

I love the new logo, it feels fresh and more modern. Also I loved the cover of the Red River Diaries. You can see the depth in that guy’s eyes, it was really emotive. Consistently excellent photography is why I like Word most — Lien Like the new design. Fresh and very modern — Richard February 2012 The Word | 5

The Talk

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / O OVERSCENE VERSCENE

THE

BIG

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH

Tittle-Tattle and Tyra

2

Tyra Banks’ recent trip to Vietnam represents a milestone

C

elebrities are just that.

Some are vacuous, attentionseeking souls whose rise to the entertainment pages of Hello seems to bear little justification beyond a night shooting darts with Ryan Giggs or downing highballs with De Niro. Others genuinely deserve their fame. Regardless, over exposure has left much of the general public jaded.

But in Vietnam, a country that has yet to develop the culture of stardom so prevalent in the west, the arrival of a household name can ruffle more that just a few feathers.

Cue — centre stage — Tyra Banks.

Along with Mark Zuckerberg, the Jolie Pitt entourage, a couple of American presidents, The Duke of York and Donald Trump, she's one of the few genuine international household names to make it to Vietnam. The result was that a far larger number of viewers watched the three-hour long final of Vietnam's Top Model, the local version of Tyra’s franchise, than would have done otherwise. For a show dogged by widespread criticism this was a feat.

But that was the whole idea.

6 | The Word February 2012

Talking the Talk Press conferences overseas tend to be a free-for-all. Manchester United manager, Sir Alex Ferguson, for example, will take all job-related questions and will deal with them as best as possible. Sometimes he is eminently quotable, sometimes he responds with psycho-babble, sometimes he refuses to answer. But unless the questions pertain to anything outside the realm of football, there are no boundaries to what can or cannot be asked.

At the press conference in Vietnam, though, the questions were vetted.

Nothing too controversial.

Fortunately, Tyra’s answers proved herself to be worthy of stardom.

“It's not about being the best looking,” she explained about becoming a successful model. “You have to treat it like a business.”

She added: “My mum always told me you have to think about the end at the beginning… The idea is to leave the industry before the phone starts ringing.”

But more important for a country like Vietnam, where the models typically lack curves: “We want to expand the definition

of beauty... I like atypical beauty.”

Hello, Goodbye Ok. At the end of the day, it’s Tyra Banks.

Who cares? She’s just a human being with normal bodily functions like the rest of us. But except for Miss Universe a few years ago, this is the first time an overseas celebrity has flown into Vietnam specifically to appear on Vietnamese TV. It’s big.

Vietnam is an ambitious country and desperately wants to be recognised on the world stage. And yet, despite talk of the booming economy, it gets overlooked when the stars come to Southeast Asia.

Banks coming here is a milestone. It says that this country is elevated enough in the supermodel’s esteem to be worthy of a high profile trip. More importantly it’s a mark of where Vietnam is on the development scale. And as the country’s fortunes continue to improve, so more household names will make it over here.

Let’s just hope they’ve got something to say for themselves and aren’t the mindless, self-seeking idiots who make it into Hello.

1 HANOI SOCIAL QUIZ II

Hanoi Social Quiz returns this month because the last one was so fun, people dressed up, got crazy, won hilarious prizes, and they had some left over questions at the end. Five different rounds, two picture rounds, two "do" rounds with questions about everything and nothing, everyone and no one. Register beforehand with a minimum four people in your team — VND60,000 per person. Recommendations: include a Belgian and balance of gender. Always good advice.

Hanoi Social Quiz II is on the Feb. 11, 7.30pm sharp at Cinematheque, 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. You can register by emailing hanoisocialquiz@gmail.com. Also check out the promotional video on YouTube by searching the name of the event

3

PECHA KUCHA #3 After the second successful installment of Pecha Kucha in December, the night is back this February with a host of guests who will use images and words to exhibit their work, make a point, share an idea, discuss a project, or simply get something off their chest. Presenters have 20 seconds with 20 photos so expect fast paced talks and enlightening subjects from a diverse collection of Hanoians — new and old, local and foreign.

Pecha Kucha goes on Feb. 23 at the Cinematheque on Hai Ba Trung. Email pechakuchahanoi@gmail.com for more info.

Admission is VND50,000

VOTE FOR YOUR FAVOURITE SINGLES

It’s February, which can only mean one thing: a whole load of love will be floating around this month. If there’s none in it for you — or even if there is — help us have some fun and put your matchmaking hat on. On page 39 there are ten singles looking for love and/or fun.

All you need to do is pick which two heartthrobs you want to send on a blind date and SMS their codes to 09333 71693. We’ll tally up the scores and send two singletons out on a date for a night of wining, dining and who knows what else. Good news is, you’ll find out what happens because we’ll send a photographer along to the date to say hi, then conduct post-date (separate) interviews to see how it all went. Check out their short Q&As and let us know who you think should be given a crack of cupid’s whip.

Page 39. That number again — 09333 71693.

4 5

NOI HANOI

This reading event last November brought out voices of young love, prison poems, odes to moms, jazzy joints, a pair of pig testicles, and so much more. Now taking place at the new CAMA venue ATK, Noi Hanoi will strip down (in length) and get a little more focused. With the theme of "Appetite" this month, poets, novelists, storytellers, myth-makers, writers of all kinds will speak their creative minds. Come and listen or come to get an Open Mic spot of your own.

Languages other than English welcomed and encouraged.

Noi Hanoi is happening Sunday, Feb. 26 at 8pm at ATK on 73a Mai Hac De. For more information on the schedule or if you'd like to submit a piece of writing to present, email noihanoi@gmail.com

SCHEDULE AT L’ESPACE

More excitement for the ears and eyes at L’Espace this month. To start, drop by the opening of the photo exhibition entitled A Bit of France of Fuong on Feb. 2 at 6pm. The exhibit that runs all month features poignant moments in the lives of French men and women who have made Vietnam their home. For those classically inclined, awardwinning pianist Marie Vermeulin graces the auditorium halls on Feb. 9 And for those with more of an electronic inclination, DJ and producer Alex Millan returns to Hanoi for the third year in a row on Feb. 18. The month finishes off with Giang Trang’s two-day performance of Floating Memories on Feb. 28 and Feb. 29. Also, be sure to check the weekly film screenings on Fridays.

L'Espace is located at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Tickets for performances are available at this location for VND120,000 or VND60,000 for students and members

February 2012 The Word | 7

Just In

the talk BLACKBERRY LANDS IN VN Business folk stand up in excitement, the full range of BlackBerry services are now available in Vietnam on Mobifone, Vinaphone and Viettel. Individuals and companies who are currently using SIM cards from either of these carriers can now register for BlackBerry services without having to change their phone numbers, sign up for long-term contracts, or pay high monthly costs (prepaid consumer packages starting at only VND130,000 per month; postpaid enterprise packages at VND250,000 per month). The BlackBerry service available in Vietnam offers the same functionality as any other country in the world, with full features such as access to BlackBerry App World and BlackBerry Messenger.

Contact Patrick Wolfe at patrick.wolfe@brightstarcorp.com.vn or 0982 457575 for more information

A PLACE TO LIVE...

WE ARE NOW OPEN AT 6T HAM LONG The new Hanoi Gourmet shop is open at 6T Ham Long offering a large selection of wine, cheese, deli products, chocolates, biscuits, etc.

We also remain open at our 1B Ham Long address with all the usual high quality products as well as lunch and dinner table service.

H PHAN CHU TRIN

HOAN KIEM LAKE E US HO ERA P ERA OP ON O T IL H YEN HU NT HA

HAM LONG DUC LO

VA N

HU

U

1B

Tel: 3943 1009 E: info@hanoigourmet.com www.hanoigourmet.com

LE

NGO THI NHA M NGO QUYEN

2C Ngo Bao Khanh / 51 Xuan Dieu, Syrena Tower Hanoi, Vietnam - tel: 3718 4084

HANG BA I

TRANG TIEN

COFFEE BEAN ON THANH NIEN The city’s coffee shop scene just got even more international with Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf opening its second Hanoi store on Thanh Nien. The LA-based chain going since 1963 touched down on the street between West Lake and Truc Bach with 28 varieties of tea and 25 kinds of coffee in the type of café vibe you’d exepct to enjoy in the west.

Watch this space for official launch dates of other stores in Vietnam or visit www.coffeebean.com.vn for more information

A SAFE PLACE This new drinking spot has the feel of a speakeasy and is only open from Thursday to Sunday night. With high-end cocktails, a foosball table, no smoking and midnight closing time, CAMA’s new bar ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing.

The space is also eyeing to be a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

CAMA ATK is located on 73a Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung Check out their website at www. cama-atk.com

8 | The Word February 2012

February 2012 The Word | 9

the talk

WIRED If you’re tired of lugging your camera around, or always forget it/lose it, there’s a new gadget to offer a quick fix. iPhoto Telephoto Lens Kit is the newest Apple add on that guarantees high quality photos straight from your phone. An 8x zoom lens attaches to a case that slips onto your iPhone. The kit comes with a carry case too, which fits into your pocket so you’ll never miss a shot. And with one touch, boring mobile uploads are now a thing of the past using Instagram.

The app adds vintage or vibrant filters — making them look a whole lot better than they actually are — and lets you share your photos via email, Facebook and Twitter.

Have friends follow you and follow others, too.

There are over 20,000 searchable Vietnam tags to keep you busy.

KEEP CUPS AT THE CART Sandwich and coffee shop legend The Cart has introduced the durable takeaway coffee cup to Vietnam that even withstands motorbike journeys. After months of road testing a handful of options, owner Loan Jackson has imported the reusable KeepCup — in special Cart colours — to ensure customers can still get their coffee fix even if they are in a rush. The move anticipates future trends for coffee shops in Hanoi.

“Vietnam drinks its coffee in cafes but with more international coffee chains opening here it’s unlikely takeaway won’t catch on. We’re hoping that people in Vietnam can jump the paper cup habit and go straight to using reuseable cups,” said Loan.

KeepCups are available from Cart outlets at Au Trieu and Nghi Tam priced VND280,000. More information via www.thecartfood.com and more on KeepCups at www.keepcup.com. Follow The Cart on Twitter: @thecartfood

KOTO GRAD AIMS BIG With more than a decade’s worth of experience working in international and domestic kitchens, KOTO graduate Thao Nguyen is bringing her culinary expertise back home to Hanoi.

Having worked in Australia and Switzerland as well as at The Metropole, Thao's new restaurant — Pots ‘n Pans — is set to open on Bui Thi Xuan this month. The social enterprise will offer guests an “upmarket atmosphere to complement the traditionally intricate Vietnamese flavours infused with international techniques and new vogue presentation”. One to look out for, we say.

For more information email Stewart on stewart@potsnpans.vn or call 01226 926357

THE TRACK It opened on New Year’s Eve and brought 2012 in with a bang. The Track, the new party venue from the owner of Mao’s Red Lounge on Ta Hien, is under Long Bien Bridge near Long Bien Market. Think bonfires, cheap drinks, an outside dance floor and rural folk standing around to watch the action unfold.

With views of the iconic bridge, late opening hours, and talks of the bar being made bigger and bigger in the coming months, it’s certainly one to watch. Some better speakers and in-bar toilets will be the icing on the cake.

Head to the ramp that takes you up to Long Bien Bridge — the bar is under that road on the traffic island

Ho Chi Minh City Open 9 am - 7 pm everyday

Hanoi Open 9 am - 9 pm everyday

64 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 Tel: 083 914 2119 mekong.quilts.hcm@gmail.com

13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3926 4831 mekong.quilts.hn@gmail.com

NEW SHOP: 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 Tel: 08 2210 3110 mekong.quilts.creations.hcmdt1@gmail.com NEW SHOP: S17-Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 08 6271 7758 mekong.quilts.creations.hcmdt7@gmail.com

www.mekong-quilts.org February 2012 The Word | 11

The Buzz GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL TO OPEN IN HANOI

DATE NIGHT DINNERS Winter nights are better spent together.

And to encourage intimacy this February, The House is offering a special promotion for couples on dates. For VND880,000, two people can enjoy set menus every night of the week accompanied with wine, candlelight and romantic music. Book ahead to enjoy a 15 percent discount at the French Quarter restaurant.

The House is located at 10 Truong Han Sieu, Hai Ba Trung

FEB @ HILT HILTON L ON N It’s all going on at the Hilton this February with the main focus on the big day for lovers.

The Chez Manon restaurant overlooking the Opera House is putting on a five-course Valentine’s Day set menu that’s available from Feb. 11 to Feb. 14 at VND790,000++/ person.

At the Café Opera, a collection of gift ideas are up for grabs between Feb. 1 and Feb. 14.

Elsewhere this month, a new all-day dining menu inspired by the South of France has been introduced, including pan-seared scallops, braised lamb shank and oven baked lobster thermidore — again at the Chez Manon restaurant. Also worth noting is that if you book an event at the Hilton between now and Mar. 15, you will win 1,000,000 Hhonors points and a weekend stay for your family (two adults and two children).

For Valentine’s Day reservations, call 3933 0500 ext. 1657, and for event enquiries contact 3933 0500 ext. 1405

A new four-star hotel will open in the centre of the capital’s Old Quarter next month. Consisting of 55 rooms and suites, the Golden Silk Boutique Hanoi will officially open on Mar. 1.

Facilities include the 56-seater Oriental Restaurant serving international and Vietnamese fare, and the 36-seater Rendezvous Piano Bar offering fine wines, premium liquors and champagnes, and an array of classic and modern cocktails.

And for the first time in Hanoi, guests of the Golden Silk Boutique Hotel will be able to enjoy free minibar snacks and drinks, which are replenished daily. Other complimentary services include coffee and pineapple flavoured tea services in the lobby, boxedup breakfasts en route to the airport, newspapers for business travellers, daily housekeeping with evening turndown, and entrance to the fitness centre from 10am to 10pm.

The Golden Silk Boutique Hotel is located at 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Tel 3928 6969 or visit www.goldensilkhotel.com

LUXURY IN THE BAY Paradise Cruises has announced the launch of its new luxurious boat, Paradise Peak, which will navigate the waters of Halong Bay. The ship boasts exclusive facilities, including a cozy library, a fitness corner, two massage rooms and a spa with sauna and Jacuzzi — along with eight spacious suites.

For enquiries and information, contact info@paradisecruises.vn

HANOI

TANNOY

It was one of those nights — lots of half-time speeches I would walk the desert just to say hi, over valleys and streams If he gets surly just give him a slap. He’s got a big mouth and a small mind Truffle oil tends to engender all sorts of moral conflict Do you want some green tea? Eh, the British went off green tea about a hundred years ago He sounds like a west Texas frat boy who’s been raised in the South Pacific with dangerous animals

JAZZ AT THE METROPOLE

DONS GOES SLEEKER Don’s Tay Ho will see a new, sleeker but cheaper set brunch menu enter its doors and offer lakeside diners with a selection of tasty fare — including oysters, cheeses, crabs, lobsters, burritos as well as bistro versions of Vietnamese classics like pho and chao.

The set brunch menu goes on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from 11am to 3pm for VND389,000. Don’s is at 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Call 3719 2828 for more information

12 | The Word February 2012

Nothing quite strikes the love chord like a well versed jazz singer. This February, the Metropole’s “House of Jazz” welcomes Diane Witherspoon to take the stage. Inspired by her sister, Shirley Witherspoon, a former Duke Ellington vocalist, and second cousin, Jimmy Witherspoon, a legendary blues singer, Diane is now an international singer with experience of more than 20 years.

Witherspoon will perform every day from Tuesday to Sunday — 8.45pm onwards.

For more information about additional Valentine’s promotions at the hotel, visit the Metropole at 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem

The cup of iniquity is full and our mouths are dry Sorry I replied to your email so late, I was in the gym watching a woman dry her pubes with a hairdryer How do you reply to that?

February 2012 The Word | 13

TOP TWEETS

OUR MAN

BY STEVE JACKSON FEEL THE FORCE For those who have completed the first Rei Ki course and are interested in studying the discipline further, a second course is on offer on Feb. 4 and Feb. 5. The course will be taught

by Reiki Master Practitioner / Teacher Kathy Kaiser at Zenith Yoga.

To register or to find out more email info@zenithyogahanoi.com

ECONOMY TRAVEL SUCKS — DEAL WITH IT TELL PEOPLE THAT YOU ARE GOING TO FLY on New Year’s Eve and their responses tend to be pretty similar.

“Bet they’ll give you champagne,” they’ll say, or, “It’ll be really quiet, you’ll probably get a free upgrade”.

Well I’ve seen-in two New Years in the skies and I’m yet to receive a “Happy New Year”. Frankly, it’s just another depressing day in economy.

My last trip was worst than most. On the way out I told a steward that my TV wasn’t working. He shrugged and said, “A lot of them don’t”.

Thirteen hours, no TV. Still, having made it through the night, I was so desperate for some kind of distraction that I was actually excited about the menu saying bacon and eggs would be served before landing.

But they ran out well before they reached our row. Still, there was plenty of beef and pasta left. I pondered the thinking that meant pasta was being served for breakfast on an Asia to Europe flight. Perhaps this noodle approximation was billed as pasta in a failed attempt to also appeal to Europeans. When I complained they smiled and brought me a Pot Noodle instead. My wife gave me the “let it go” look as I turned it down. She did it again when the coffee was cold.

On the final leg from Paris to Newcastle there was no meal served but there were tiny packets of nuts and biscuits. When

14 | The Word February 2012

I asked if I could have one of each the stewardess growled: “Certainly sir, BOTH nuts AND biscuits”.

Long Ways My parents’ first-ever long haul flight was to my wedding in Vietnam. When their economy flight was affected by a strike in France they decided to go business class with another airline. This wasn’t their normal style but when I questioned whether they could afford it they cheerfully told me they were spending my inheritance.

They visit again in the summer having now declared that business class is the only way they can travel such distances. It’s hard not to consider the damage to my future wealth.

For the rest of us who deal with economy, flying remains a trauma. Doing our duty by my family and going to see them twice a year hits our own finances hard. Yet there remains no easy way. Heading to Newcastle means there is no such thing as a direct flight.

In 2010, we travelled to London. And with no available or cheap flights for the final leg, we hired a car. I told my wife that if I was to drive she must promise to stay awake and talk to me to keep me from nodding off. She was snoring before we’d reached the motorway.

Earlier on that trip when we had passed through immigration, despite my wife presenting her Vietnamese passport, the guy in the booth asked his mate if he could “deal with this bloke and his Filipino wife”.

After the holidays we flew back via Russia and had a 12-hour wait. Juice and cake for two cost US$30 (VND630,000). We stopped eating and drinking after that.

This year we returned via Beijing. In Newcastle they couldn’t issue us a boarding pass for the final leg of the journey to Hanoi but they said we’d have no problems getting one in Amsterdam. In Amsterdam they said we could get one at the boarding gate. The boarding gate said we could get one in Beijing. On arrival in Beijing they didn’t know where we could get one.

In the end, we actually had to clear customs just to re-check in again with our airline. With the minutes ticking away before our flight departed, when security insisted on not only scanning my laptop separately but also each individual camera, Kindle and iPod lead, I lost it a tiny bit.

After a while you can’t help but feel airlines are being intentionally difficult.

Even when you score the extra legroom seats they make them narrower with unmovable armrests, as if to remind you that you simply can’t win. That website, Seatguru, may as well just replace itself with a statement that says: “All seats in economy suck — deal with it.”

We’ve made the decision that we’ll be in Vietnam for the next Christmas and New Year or possibly some beach just a short haul away. There will be champagne, sleep, movies, smiles and great food. *The above was written at 4am. Jetlagged

DOORTOMYKITCHEN @Vietnam720 thanks Ben! and thanks to @WordVietnam for a great write up :) 12 Jan KOKISMITH Just learned the word for "complicated" in Vietnamese.

In hysterics. You really can't make this stuff up. ow.ly/8ojnR @wordvietnam 10 Jan WILDWILDEAST @WordVietnam I think she's mad at The Word magazine for posting this picture of her:) ow.ly/i/phVT#1774 9 Jan FISHEGGTREE RT @WordVietnam: Tyra Banks waxing lyrical at the press conference this morning in #Saigon. #HCMC #Vietnampic. twitter.com/a1mcV42r 8 Jan ZENITHPHUONG @WordVietnam: A Tet survival guide for anyone lucky enough to be in #Hanoi during the Lunar New Year ow.ly/8hEaF #Vietnam” 8 Jan

FROM ONE SCHOOL TO ANOTHER Hanoi’s QSI International School began a clothing drive for the children of Lao Chai San Elementary School in Lao Cai last month to ensure children of the ethnic minority groups in the north can keep warm as they walk almost an hour to school every day. The funds for the 100 jackets, 100 rain boots, and 100 pairs of socks were donated by the QSI family and a sponsoring company, along with numerous bags of clothing. The QSI International School of Hanoi family is developing further plans to help these students and will continue to collect donations.

Visit www.hanoi.qsi.org for more information on how to donate or call 3718 6418

DEBBIEJCLARE #Hanoi musicians, bands, performers, singers, promoters and venues — send me your news for next month’s @ WordVietnam 7 Jan PIPPI_KOREAN @WordVietnam Thanks guys, just got the latest number in my hands, can't wait to read it!!

3 Jan CAMTHUTRAN Do it for the sheer fun if not your love life @WordVietnam #Hanoi is looking for 10 singletons to play cupid with.

Email ian@wordhanoi.com 20 Dec

the talk

FIRST MINUTE FARES LOT Airline, Poland’s national carrier, is putting it all out there for early birds looking to fly come spring. With lot.com, the earlier you book the cheaper the flights, with no transaction fee thrown in. Also, for those looking at Europe, LOT’s deals to Poland are worth bearing in mind.

One way Hanoi to Poland is going from VND3,950,000 (net) while a round trip is going from VND5,720,000 (net).

Check out www.lot.com, or call 3577 2202

JAZZ AND PARADISE

HELP, GUYS?

The Japan Foundation brings quality jazz to Hanoi early this month with UNIT ASAI and singer Tung Duong performing at the Youth Theatre on Feb. 3. Later in the month, paradise, paradoxes, and models serve as the inspiration behind the “blueprint of Paradise” exhibit, starting Feb. 17. Japanese based art collective Paramodel will hold a workshop on Feb. 18 at the Fine Arts University.

This Valentine’s Day, The Doll House — a smart, casual, European chic boutique and cafe at 26 Ly Thai To — is providing gift ideas and has vouchers available for clothes-buying-weary boyfriends.

Click through their collection at www.thedollhouse.vn before visiting

Hanoi: Matthew Collier HCMC: Kevin Hamilton

M: +84 976 750 644 T: +84 4 6275 2824 - matthew.collier@alliedpickfords.com.vn M: +84 122 514 1848 T: +84 8 3823 3454 - kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn

the talk

SEAFOOD DELUGE Something for the diary: every Saturday evening through February, Novotel Halong Bay’s Square Restaurant is hosting a seafood feast. Adults can chow down on some delicious offerings from the sea for VND522,000, while children’s plates are priced at VND261,000. A 10 percent discount is applied for Advantage Plus members.

To make a reservation email info@novotelhalong.com.vn

16 | The Word February 2012

February 2012 The Word | 17

In the Papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

FEWER THAN 50 WILD TIGERS LEFT IN VIETNAM Dr Le Xuan Canh, head of the Institute of Ecology and Biological Resources, said at the recent Vietnam Forest Management Department conference that the number of wild tigers in Vietnam “has been reduced quickly from more than 100 ten years ago to fewer than 50.”

Surveys have found traces of between 27 to 47 tigers at six reserves and national parks, mostly in the Central Vietnam border areas.

The institute has sent 38 gene samples from the tigers for examination overseas.

Tests showed that the tigers include at least seven Amur tigers, also known as Siberian tigers, 25 Indochinese or Corbett tigers and four Indian tigers.

TWO TAXI COMPANIES SUSPENDED FROM AIRPORT

AN ABSENCE OF LIBIDO IN VIETNAM Doctors said sterility and libido absence have been reported in many young Vietnamese men, including newlyweds and those between 28 and 30 years old.

Binh Dan Hospital receives more than 200 men with the physiological conditions every day, and the average age of patients reporting these conditions is getting younger. The average age for sexual desire disorder in women has also gone down to age 32, according to figures from the hospital. Women, between 20 to 29 years old, account most for the conditions, at nearly 41 percent.

The condition has badly affected many marriages and lives, as it is accompanied by depression and sleep disorders in women, especially those older than 40, doctors said.

Doctors blamed the overuse of tobacco and alcohol, and the lack of physical activity for a lack of a libido at an early age in Vietnam. Stress and heavy weight are also identified as contributors to the problem.

The Ministry of Transport’s inspectors have suspended two taxi companies from operating at Tan Son Nhat International Airport in Ho Chi Minh City for various violations. Petrolimex Taxi and Festival Taxi were also fined VND7.5 million each.

Both taxi companies were found mismanaging their drivers by not signing contracts with them while some of their taxis had painted colours and logos different from those registered with local agencies. Moreover, drivers were caught violating regulations when picking passengers at the airport more than 70 times in 2011.

They have also halted the operation of 75 of 181 Saigon Tourist taxis for selling their logos to another company.

MAN SLEEPS IN PLANE ENGINE A man was found sleeping in an airplane’s wing engine before its take-off in Dak Lak. Le Van Man, 30, entered the Buon Ma Thuot Airport while no security guards were on duty at the runway’s north side.

The man told police that he got drunk and broke the airport’s barrier before climbing onto an airplane’s engine to sleep.

He was only detected by the crew of the A320 airplane of the state-owned Vietnam Airlines, when it was about to take flight for Hanoi.

The Ministry of Transport’s inspectorate fined the Southern Airports Corporation’s branch, which manages the airport, VND25 million, Tuoi Tre reported.

18 | The Word February 2012

MINIMUM WAGE TO BE RAISED? Officials have suggested Vietnam state office workers receive a minimum wage of VND3.15 million per month starting in 2013.

As of May 2012, the minimum wage for the workers will be raised from VND830,000 a month to VND1.05 million, still lower than the current minimum wages in the business sector, which are between VND1.4 to VND2 million.

Doan Cuong, director of the Department of Labour and Salaries at the Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs, said that “the salaries of state office workers must be put relevant to the average income on the market. There will be corruption otherwise.”

UNLABELED ADDITIVES SOLD TO MAKE SOUP A wholesale market in Ho Chi Minh City is selling unidentified additives that, when mixed with water, turns them into broth or fruit juices. The additives are sold without labels at Kim Bien Market in District 5. They have several flavours including orange, lime, grape, strawberry, coffee, chocolate, beef and seafood.

One kilogram of the beef additive costs less than VND420,000.

Figures from the Ho Chi Minh City Food Safety and Hygiene Department show that the number of food poisoning victims in 2011 increased to 848 from 734 the previous year.

FEBRUARY CALENDAR TUE

MON

WED 01

06

07 0 7

Gaelic Football practice Wednesdays and Saturdays, www.vietcelts.com

08

THU Thursday night bike ride around Hanoi starting @ Hanoi Opera House, 8pm

02

09

FRI 03 0 3

SAT Unit Asia and Tung Duong Duo Jazz concert conc @Y Youth Theatre Thea

10

Marie Vermeulin piano recital @ L’Espace

Hano Hanoi Speakers @ Spea KOTO KOTO, 59 Van Mieu (third floor), 6.45pm floor

To have your event included in our calendar, please email kaitlin@wordhanoi.com by no later than Feb. 15 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

14 1 4

15

16 1 6

Valentine Valentine’s Day Music Party @ HRC

Happy Hour @ Don's Tay Ho, 5pm to 7pm daily

21

22

23

27 2 7

Screening of Berlin Calling (German electronic music industry) @ ATK, 8.30pm

28 2 8 Giang Trang concert: Floating Memories @ L’Espace

29

Giang Trang concert: Floating Memories @ L’Espace

One More Time leap year party @ HRC

Saturday Seafood Buffet at Novotel Ha Long Bay, 6.30pm to 9.30pm

Sunday Lunch (traditional roast with all the trimmings) @ Hanoi Cooking Centre, 11.30am to 3pm.

Advanced booking is requested

12

Weekend Market, Saturdays and Sundays @ 4, 67/12 Lane 67 To Ngoc Van, 9.30am to 12.30am

S at Saturday Seafood Buffet at Nov Novotel Ha Long Bay, 6.30pm to 9.30pm

Lyngbyhas Live (Denmark) @ HRC

18

Alex Millan electronic music @ L’Espace

Paramodel Workshop @ Vietnam University of Fine Arts, 2pm to 4pm Screening of Mademoiselle Chambon @ L’Espace

24

PechaKucha Hanoi #3 @ Cinematheque, 7.30pm. VND50,000 charge on the door or free with valid student ID

Hanoi Speakers @ KOTO, 59 Van Mieu (third floor), 6.45pm A Bit of France

by Fuong, photo exhibition @ L’Espace. From Feb. 2 to Feb 28

17

Rei Ki 2 Course @ Zenith Yoga

Rei Ki 2 Course @ Zenith Yoga

H Hanoi a Social Quiz II @ C Cinematheque, in 6.30pm to 11pm

Screening of Soiree Speciale Courts Metragess D’animation @ L’Espace

O Opening of PParamodelic Graffiti bby “Paramodel” @ JJapan Foundation, 66pm

Valentine’s Day sset menu at the Hilton Hanoi’s Chez Manon restaurant

20

HITS play reading night @ Puku, 16-18 Tong Duy Tan

05

11 1 1

Acoustic Thursday h d @ AAu LLac DDo Brazil, 6pm to 9pm

13

04

SUN

Screening of Piece Montee @ L’Espace

Vu Nhat Tan w/ live bassist @ ATK

25

Tiny Monster (HCMC) live @ HRC

Saturday Seafood Buffet at Novotel Ha Long Bay, 6.30pm to 9.30pm

19 Red River Runners Turn Up and Run 10km.

Call 0127 6706640 for info

26 Noi Hanoi @ ATK, 8pm

Traditional Vietnamese Trio Band @ Oyster Bar, Don's Tay Ho, every Sun. at 8.30pm

SCENE

PHOTOS BY DAVE LEMKE

OVER

PIAGGIO PARTY Italian motorbike giant gets down with the youth at the Art of the Motorbike party

BOOMBOX BOOMS

PHOTOS BY DAVE LEMKE

Local celebrities pose, snap, snap, pose at one of the city’s hip new establishments

NYE @ TABOO

PHOTOS BY DAVE LEMKE

Hanoian socialites ring in the New Year with class at the city’s premiere marine site

Insider

Q&A / VOVINAM / THE MANY FACES OF HANOI / THE LOVE ISSUE

PHOTO BY DOMINIC BLEWETT

Q&A

Carolyn Shine talks to David Stout about her new book and gender roles in the city

CONGRATULATIONS ON THE LAUNCH OF YOUR BOOK SINGLE WHITE FEMALE IN HANOI. WHAT FEEDBACK HAVE YOU RECEIVED SO FAR? To my surprise, I haven’t had any negative feedback, and all reviews have been good, so I’m just waiting for something a bit more critical. I’ve been surprised by the number of people who write to me to tell me how much they relate to my experiences in the book, which is essentially a comedic romp through culture shock and my education in cultural relativism. By this I mean that I turned up [to Hanoi] naively expecting to be charmed by Vietnamese culture, and when it failed to charm me I was plunged into great confusion.

FROM WHAT WE’VE READ, THE BOOK FOCUSES QUITE A BIT ON HOW GENDER ROLES PLAY OUT IN HANOI AND HOW THIS AFFECTED YOUR RELATIONSHIPS — BOTH INTIMATE AND PLATONIC. CAN YOU EXPAND ON THIS? In the book, I focus mainly on cultural

26 | The Word February 2012

differences. But you’re probably aware of the furor that resulted from my CNNgo article, which explored gender roles.

In it, I documented and discussed the fact that historically, western men have easily been able to get together with Asian women, but not the other way around. I wrote about how Vietnamese males are generally not reared to be the kind of guys that could charm a western woman, and also the reasons why they, in turn, tend not to be attracted to western women. The feedback I received after this article ranged between plaudits from Vietnamese women, to hate-mail from Vietnamese men accusing me of wanting to destroy their culture by seducing them.

The vast majority of the mail I received, though, came from Vietnamese men who left their phone numbers.

HOW DO YOU THINK DEVELOPMENT IN VIETNAM WILL AFFECT GENDER ROLES IN THE FUTURE? I have mixed feelings about the likely future of gender roles in Vietnam. I think

that because it is opening up to the West so quickly, it’s beginning to examine itself — where it’s from, and where it might go in the future. Vietnamese people are, perhaps for the first time, beginning to wonder what they look like from a western viewpoint. You might call it cultural self-awareness. It is a very exciting time for Vietnam right now, but also difficult, because some very old cultural traditions are threatened by modernisation.

And, of course, the strongest traditions in Vietnam revolve around marriage and family. I think modernisation will affect males and females differently. It will liberate Vietnamese women, as with more economic independence, they will begin to eschew their traditional roles. Divorce rates will continue to climb and unmarried women will choose to marry later and focus on education. There will also be an echelon of disaffected Vietnamese males, who are confused about their identities. It’s sad to think how much traditional culture may be lost, but as a westerner and a feminist, I’m compelled to recognise that, for Vietnamese women, there are exciting times ahead.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY TARA WINKLER

Single White Female WE HAVEN’T SEEN A COPY OF THE BOOK IN HANOI YET. ARE THERE PLANS TO RELEASE IT HERE? HOW ABOUT A VIETNAMESE TRANSLATION? I’m sure the bootlegs will be appearing soon on a corner near you. As for translation, well, translation between any two languages is a fraught and highly subjective process. The greater the difference between the two cultures, the harder this process becomes. Translation between Vietnamese and English, and especially English into Vietnamese, is really tricky. I contend the latter is harder because English is the world’s most open language and has an extraordinarily vast vocabulary of imported words and concepts.

My story is told from the unmistakable and very nuanced viewpoint of a westernised female. This means taking for granted that the reader is likely to have, for example, watched The Simpsons, taken recreational drugs, considered whether or

"I’m compelled to recognise that, for Vietnamese women, there are exciting times ahead" not the world still exists when they close their eyes. They have taken in, if not the discourses, then at least the ambience of feminism, existentialism, hedonism. Even the title of my book is a cultural reference that doesn’t translate. Every effort to translate it in the Vietnamese press has resulted in something akin to ‘Lonely western young woman in Hanoi’, which has a completely different meaning.

There have been a few offers from Vietnamese publishing houses wanting to translate Single White Female in Hanoi,

but I haven’t signed off on anything yet, because, given the culture chasm that comes across in their correspondence, their budget, and also their very poor English, I feel concerned that a good translation might be beyond their means, if such a thing is even possible. Since there’s no real money to be made out of the deal, my only interest would be to promote cross-cultural understanding, so if the translation is poor, there’s no advantage I can see.

This interview has been edited and condensed

February 2012 The Word | 27

WELLNESS

THE SCHOOL OF

HARD

KNOCKS Vovinam is fast becoming Vietnam’s signature martial art. Douglas Pyper finds out where it came from and why it’s more than just self defence.

Photos by Dominic Blewett

L

ong grew up in Russia and a hearty Broscht based diet shows in his stocky frame.

Sitting in his living room he explains, “Our arms are not strong, so we use our legs to break our rival’s necks, ankles or chests”. He looks like he could do it with his eyes.

Long is talking about Vovinam — Vietnam’s biggest martial art.

“Vovinam’s philosophy takes bamboo as its symbol,” says Long. “The more it bends, the stronger force it can generate back.”

The symbol represents a key principle in Vovinam — the blending of what is termed “hard” and “soft” attacks. While most Chinese martial arts exclusively use “hard” techniques to strike an opponent, Vovinam is a fighting style that has been adapted to support the smaller Vietnamese frame.

A “soft” attack is one that uses the opponent’s momentum or weight against them.

28 | The Word February 2012

“If you want to punch me with a lot of power, your weight has to be on your front leg,” says Long. “Vovinam fighters take advantage of their small bodies to avoid the punch while bending their knee and sweeping away the opponent’s standing leg, taking them down.”

The youth today “are more hot tempered and tend to use weapons more often [in typical street fights]” explains Vovinam instructor Viet. “From my experience when you use a weapon, to some extent you also depend on it. The variety of possible moves becomes very limited with a knife or a brick and is therefore easy to anticipate… You just block it, break his hand and then take him down. Very easy.”

The Two Faces Vovinam was created by Nguyen Loc in 1938 and has a long history of uprisings. Grandmaster

February 2012 The Word | 29

Loc combined traditional Vietnamese wrestling, which is of the Greco-Roman sort, with other martial arts prevalent at the time to create a fighting style that would be useful against the French.

Upheaval and conflict have made it difficult for the sport to develop nationally and it is only in the last five or six years that the art has really become a widespread pastime.

As the popular Vietnamese saying goes, “Vovinam has two faces” — performance and combat. The performance element is in part responsible for the sport’s recent surge in popularity. A quick search on YouTube will bring up clips of Matrixesque takedowns — the most spectacular involves 21 scissor kicks. Seeing a performer simultaneously kick two

30 | The Word February 2012

opponents in the chest before wrapping their thighs around the neck of a third, flipping them over and pretending to snap their neck like a chicken is not an uncommon sight at a competition. This is known as don chan kep co and isn’t the kind of thing most folk pull off in a typical street fight.

Born out of the sport’s revolutionary past is the combat element. While the performance aspect can make Vovinam seem like some kind of glorified circus act, the combat takes no quarter and generally features moves banned from competition.

In the courtyard of the University of Foreign Affairs, up to 70 students can be found three nights a week kicking and punching the air in unison. The courtyard is surrounded on all sides by halls of

residence. While the students practice, the sound of a lone bamboo flute can be heard coming from one of the rooms. A few hours later, the atmospheric sound is replaced by distorted karaoke.

The group is run like a youth club.

Classes are free for all students and are able to function through the generosity of ex-students Master Binh and Trainer Viet.

Three quarters of the students are female.

In contrast with Long’s burly Russian physique, Viet is sinewy like Bruce Lee, of average Vietnamese height and yet manages to weigh around 80kg — proof, if it was needed, that muscle is heavier than fat.

As an instructor, Viet emphasises practicality, which, in contrast with Vovinam’s theatrical image, he believes is

central to the art. In Vovinam’s formative years as a revolutionary weapon against the French, students didn’t have much time to practice, so Grandmaster Loc concentrated on using the parts of the body that are better for defence. Rather than spending a few years kicking banana trees to carve their feet into lead weights, Vovinam fighters utilise their elbows and knees to inflict maximum damage.

“The elbow is very hard, while the top of your foot is very soft,” says Viet. “If you want to make your foot hard you have to practice a lot — it takes time”.

In the Balance During the training session, the students begin to practice one of the 21 scissor kicks.

The victim stands with the weight on his

lead leg while the attacker wraps both legs around his thighs and knees. At other times during the session the students do rolls and learn how to fall. Two girls aren’t interested in this and opt to spar instead. In this club, everything is optional. One of the girls likes practicing forms — quyen in Vietnamese — which are a kind of procedural learning common in many martial arts. Actions and poses are repeated then strung together so that they become as natural as reflexes.

When done right, the fluid motions are like a beautiful dance and their appeal becomes obvious.

“When you are against an opponent, you have your own rhythm,” says Master Binh. “You calculate your opponent’s rhythm and you attack like a chorus.

“Quyen has its own beauty, but beauty

isn’t all,” he says. “A good master should teach their students how to balance quyen and self-defence techniques […] too much focus on either side would not make a good practitioner.”

What Binh describes as an “ideology of balance” has helped Vovinam to evolve into a global sport. More than 30 countries around the world have official associations with Iran, France and Russia being particularly strong. Master Long estimates the total number of students in Vietnam is around one million. Vietnam is still the most successful Vovinam nation but for Long, this is not important.

“The English invented football, but they aren’t the best at it… What matters is that Vovinam continues to develop all over the world.”

February 2012 The Word | 31

THE MANY FACES OF HANOI

The Heart Doctor

David Stout visits one of Vietnam’s most trusted cardiologists.

Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

D

r Duong Duc Hung fixes broken hearts. By his estimates about 10,000 in total.

The doctor has established his reputation as the most skilled cardiologist in the country due to his excellence in surgical practices that no others have mastered. In the last decade, Dr Hung has successfully completed five aortic valve transplants. Next year, he will attempt to transplant an entire human heart.

Before a procedure he likes to clear his mind with a cup of coffee. During an operation, he prefers to listen to Bach. After surgery, a cigarette helps ease the stress. He prefers to keep his doctor’s coat off when walking through the halls of Bach Mai Hospital. This helps him blend in, so he can hear how the patients talk about the health care they’re receiving.

He’s healed the young and old. In 1998, he operated on a six-month-old boy, whose heart was comparable in size to that of a chicken egg.

“It was such a tiny heart,” says Dr Hung. “It looked so fragile. It could have stopped beating so easily.”

But in time the little chicken egg would grow to be roughly the size of a human fist and pump six quarts of blood through about 60,000 miles of vessels every day. But the heart’s responsibilities extend past the maintenance of blood flow. Dr Hung has salvaged many relationships by treating his patients.

In particular, women are often stigmatised when knowledge of a weak or damaged heart surfaces.

Such information can prevent a marriage or stop a couple from having children.

“Besides doing the operation for a [patient], I also have to talk with the boyfriends and convince them that she’s fine and can still have the baby and the baby will be fine too,” says Dr Hung.

According to the doctor, three qualities are essential to be a skilled surgeon: a cool head,

32 | The Word February 2012

impassioned heart and hands of silk.

“My hands never shake no matter how much coffee I drink or cigarettes I smoke,” says the doctor, who makes no apologies for the pleasure he takes in a well-timed cigarette or fine glass of scotch.

“I think the quality of life is more important than the length of life,” he adds.

Such is a lesson he has learned from enabling patients to live, but also from seeing many who he was unable to save.

One particular case still strikes a chord with the doctor. In 2000, after returning from France where he had been studying, a middle-aged patient came to him in dire condition. All the cardiologists he’d seen up to that point had turned him away, essentially telling him to go home to wait for his time. The man’s heart was in a bad way, but his wife was expecting a child.

Dr Hung successfully treated the man and while he recuperated from his operation, his wife gave birth.

The couple invited the doctor for a meal in their home to celebrate the occasion. While the doctor says he usually avoids such interactions with his patients, he made a concession for this case.

“There was a lot of good food at the house and everyone was very happy,” says Dr Hung. “But after I finished the meal, the family told me that the wood that they used to cook the meal had been chopped up from the coffin that they bought to prepare for the father’s funeral.”

The doctor says he is still moved by this experience.

“I feel very rewarded when I am able to save a person’s life,” says Dr Hung. “But when a patient dies, I always try to learn a lesson from it. On that day, at night after everyone goes to bed, I often stay up and recall everything about [the patient]. I think about what I would do tomorrow if I receive a similar case.”

February 2012 The Word | 33

THE LOVE ISSUE Word looks at the different shades of romance colouring the capital — with some Valentine’s Day matchmaking thrown in for good measure Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

34 | The Word February 2012

February 2012 The Word | 35

A LOVE PROFILE

Hanoi: is for lovers, sucks at love, will break your heart, will warm your heart, will confuse, crumple, knot, melt, twist it, squeeze it, bop it. Inhabiting our city are individuals who have a story for each of t he adjectives.

Kait lin Rees speaks to just a few

Heart in Healing It’s not unfamiliar for the tale of a foreign resident in Hanoi to start with some kind of trauma at home. Since the beginning of breakups (even before Elizabeth Gilbert and Eat Pray Love), brokenhearted singles have travelled to distant places to recover and rediscover themselves. One Hanoian on such a path, Susan, shares her experience of what brought her here.

“I came to Vietnam on the heels of this big, consuming relationship. It was one of those where the other person somehow gets inserted really close to your centre, your sense of who you are, where you’re going. Losing that is just terrible.”

After a few months of thinking and therapy, Susan moved halfway across the world.

“I chose Vietnam because it was totally different from the journey I started with my partner. I had this need for some adventure that was resoundingly and uncomplicatedly mine. I wanted to stand on my own.

“I heard myself meeting people during my first weeks in Hanoi and almost didn’t recognize the voice. I’d never been in such a completely new place where I felt that whatever I said was painted onto this otherwise totally blank canvas. It felt like I was meeting myself in this new life.”

While Susan has since had a few different love affairs in Hanoi, with various foods, streets and men, she describes how the city has become more than just

36 | The Word February 2012

a place to nurse old wounds.

“There is this novel relationship with myself, one that I feel like I’m constantly uncovering because there is so much space for that here.”

Hearts in Sync While Hanoi is a place of delicious independence and solitude for some, it’s a place of equally delicious attachment for others.

Nga and Trevor met in November 2009. Thanks to Vietcupid.org and the gentle prodding of Nga’s colleagues, the two communicated for about a week before their first meeting. Two bun cha dates later, they were hooked.

“We talked for a couple hours,” Trevor recalls.

“The big thing that resonated with me was being able to talk about [really difficult things in life]. The conversation flowed easily from one thing to another, nothing forced, no awkward moments, just constant.

Since then we haven’t really been apart that much.”

“For the first time in my life, I felt like ‘Oh God, I don’t care what language he is speaking, I can talk with him’. I wanted to share everything I was thinking about and what I don’t know, he knows…. I can learn from him.”

Both knew what they wanted right from the beginning, though, as Nga confidently states, “I fell in love first”.

“We were both on the same page with our direction in life,” Trevor adds. “I couldn’t imagine being without her… As well as loving Nga and being attracted to her, all of a sudden I started feeling extremely comfortable in my surroundings, more informed about what was going on in my community.

She opened up a whole new life for me in Vietnam.”

Six months after meeting, Trevor, a “food guy”, cooked an elaborate chicken feast for all their friends and told the room that he’d been happier in the last half a year than ever before, and he wanted a future of the same.

The couple married in May 2011. Now running a successful school, as well as a hotel, they’ve adopted one child and are awaiting the arrival of another.

Through respect, honesty and a whole load of love, this pair is happily showing Hanoi how it can work.

And When it Doesn’t Whether you slip and fall or gleefully plunge into the waters, anyone who has floated in the warm ocean of intimacy knows about the sharks. They are always there, and once bitten, it can take a lot to recover.

Van Anh, 48, has boldly ventured into love a number of times. Her first big relationship was with the father of her two children. They married at 18 and while Van Anh worked to support her family by selling cigarettes on the street, her husband wound up

behind bars.

“It was true love at one moment of life, but it changed. We both changed,” she says. The pair was married for eight years before their relationship finally fell apart.

“He cheated on me and didn’t hide it. When he was away, I realised that I was better off without him and wanted to divorce. I spent a long time feeling miserable and down about my situation… I started spending more time with friends, going out to take my mind away from the stress of a failed marriage.”

Van Anh’s next love came rather unexpectedly.

“I didn’t think I could trust again,” she admits.

But this man was different, someone whom she says, “changed my world and made me love more than I had before. I thought my life was going to be happy like that forever...”

Alas. Four years later, after a child with him and while pregnant with a second, Van Anh suspected another case of infidelity. After confirming her fears, she attempted to save her marriage by talking to her husband’s girlfriend and trying to warn her off.

“It didn’t work. I realised he loved her in exactly the same way as he had loved me… My heart was broken. I felt sick. I stayed in bed to try to forget about everything. For almost a year.”

Betrayal is brutal. But equally powerful is time.

Though there are pains that never fully go away,

February 2012 The Word | 37

"WE BUILT UP OUR HAPPINESS FROM THE HARDSHIPS WE OVERCAME. WE KNOW HOW TO APPRECIATE PEACE NOW, AND LIVE WITH NO STRESS"

after a while the rawness does and leaves room for something new — Van Anh is currently dating again, someone quite different from the others; someone 22 years younger than her.

“I always tell him to find someone his own age... So far, he’s stayed but I will never marry again — I always thought strong love would never end, but I’ve realised that nothing is forever.”

When It Is A couple like Mr. and Mrs. Vinh, who have been married for an incredible 67 years, would suggest some things are forever.

89-year-old Mr. Vinh and his wife, 86, were married in 1945 when both were students. Their families were friends and encouraged the marriage because war was imminent.

“Our love story is made up of a few different periods, interrupted with battles in the war,” Mr. Vinh explains. “It has not always been smooth; we were separated for the first seven years of our marriage.

Right after we had our first child, I was sent off by the military and did not see my wife again until an accidental reunion in 1952.”

“For seven years, I had no news of him. I didn’t even know if he was still alive,” says Mrs. Vinh, who goes on to explain the great difficulty of the times, including attempted escapes from French territory, beatings, and the death of her first child.

When they were finally reunited in 1952, Mrs. Vinh remembers how she could hardly recognise her husband, whose face had been ravaged by war and had much less hair. Their reunion was emotional, but it didn’t last long. Only two years later in 1954, they were separated again when Mr. Vinh was sent to Hanoi.

Once over, the devastating circumstances of conflict left Mr. and Mrs. Vinh with a perspective on life and love that continues to feed their present day attitudes.

More than most, they realise what is important and what is not.

“We built up our happiness from the hardships we overcame. We know how to appreciate peace now, and live with no stress.”

Open Alternatives Though we’d like to believe in some replicable secret to long lasting love, what works for some relationships, will just not work for others. With no

38 | The Word February 2012

formula, sometimes a little risk-taking and new rulemaking is in order.

Eric and Christina met at 18 during their first year of university. They knew each other through a larger circle of friends for a year before the drunken/ accidental/destined romance. After progressing through several phases of courtship, from the ‘let’s not tell our friends,’ to the moving in, shared travels and eventual settling down, they were married after seven years of dating.

In 2009, the couple moved to Hanoi for Christina’s job. Before leaving, both partners found themselves in the problematic position of being attracted to people outside their marriage.

“For months I was talking to my sisters and other women friends and I just felt like I should be talking to Eric about this. But it’s something that you can’t easily bring up,” says Christina.

“There is something about the expatriate culture that makes you feel a bit outside of the norms. There is more leniency here about what the rules are,” she adds.

Eric continues, “It just opens up your mind. You’ve got all these new experiences and you’re suddenly more open to change and new things”.

So as intelligent human beings who genuinely loved each other, as adults who could communicate, and in a relationship that could handle it, they proceeded down the unpaved roads of open marriage.

“We were going to have to deal with these issues either way, whether we did it alone or together,” Eric reasons.

Rather than divorce or deceit, the couple decided to share the issues with which they both were struggling. Together the two worked out a unique set of agreements for their relationship.

“The agreements were focused on real, serious honesty that didn’t exist before,” Eric shares.

“What an open marriage actually looks like depends on your needs; each person in the relationship will have different needs, different desires, different boundaries, different tolerances. It was a process of sorting out and negotiating those things. We’re lucky that we have a relationship where we trust each other enough and are compatible enough to make something like this work. And it’s still an experiment.”

From solitary and matrimonial bliss, to the blisters of loss and the well-earned scars of survival, Hanoi is home to love of all kinds. Happy Valentine’s Day.

CITY SINGLES Time to play matchmaker. We’ve gathered ten singles and now it’s down to you to hook them up.

See the Q&As, find the codes of your two favourite singletons and SMS them to 0933 371693. Alternatively email your combination (e.g.

M1/F5) to editor@wordhanoi.com or tweet us with it: @wordvietnam.

We’ll do the rest to send the lucky couple on a blind date to somewhere nice — of course, being sure to quiz them thoroughly afterward to see if it’s a goer. Read all about it in March, but for now, get voting February 2012 The Word | 39

F1

How long have you been single?

Three years! I’m yet to find Mr. Right.

Have you dated a foreigner before?

I haven’t dated so much recently, but yeah, I’ve dated Vietnamese, Korean and Jordanese.

Wow — you’re collecting the whole set! What’s your ideal first date?

It needs to be romantic, so it should be on a balcony with a river or lake view. The food is not important. I care about the person I’m with and the conversation.

What attracts you most about men?

The eyes are the first thing I notice. They say a lot of things. Eye contact helps you to understand whether the person is a liar, or is telling the truth. I’ve dated a few liars before and honesty is important for me, for both the man and the woman. I also go for intelligence, humour and sensitivity.

What can be expected on a date with you?

Conversation. Humour. And after that, dancing. Until early in the morning. All night, 6am, 7am — providing I don’t have to work the next day.

Are you a heart breaker or a love maker?

It depends on whether I like you or not. If I like you, you’ll know about it.

NGOC

27 / EDUCATION GUIDE

So, what’s your story?

I’ve been here nearly two years and have been single the whole time.

Looking for love?

Yes. If I find someone I can trust I would like to have a longer relationship. Nothing too short. Luckily I don’t have my parents pushing me to date and marry — I’m doing this for me.

F2

You’ve been here for three months — how is it?

Really easy. It felt like I’d been here for three months from the moment I arrived.

F3

How about the dating scene here?

[Laughs] Yeah, different! It seems like everyone has a partner back home or is leaving. I’ve met heaps of people but no one I’ve hit it off with. But I don’t really date that often anyway.

Do you think Hanoi is romantic?

I’ve lived in Italy and Paris, which were romantic. Apart from all the lakes and flowers, which have potential, it hasn’t yet been very romantic for me.

Would you agree that guys here tend to be scum bags?

It’s kind of true. I once went out and met these guys. The one I was speaking to had a wife and three kids in Germany and the other guy was having an open relationship with a girl who was away. He said my friend could call him if she changed her mind about ‘hooking up before Tuesday’ — when his other girlfriend got back. A Vietnamese girl once said to me that good girls don’t go out. That could be true.

What attracts you to a man?

I don’t really have a typical man, but I notice the eyes first. I like humour, too. I’m probably attracted to bad guys, which is just unfortunate.

Are you looking for love?

I'm not sure whether I'm looking for love but it would be nice if love found me. I would want to meet someone who is looking for the same things as me; someone I can explore life with.

TILLEM

31 / VOLUNTEER

F4

How long have you been single?

Oh my God, like forever! No, two or three months.

Why are you single?

I think that guys find me boring…

Why? I like being single! People say Hanoi is not a good place to date because it’s very transient, but I don’t think it’s difficult to date here.

Relationships have presented themselves a few times. It’s not for a lack of offers, I just wasn’t ready to leave singlehood.

… in shiny leggings like that?!

Yeah, ok, not boring, but I think I just haven’t found the right guy yet.

What do you look for in a guy?

I think honesty is extremely important. They need to appreciate me.

They need to be adorable and good looking, too.

What’s the ideal date?

I’ve not really been on a ‘typical’ date here. I usually just hang out with friends. But I’d take someone to the bia hoi to talk and people watch.

Hmmm. Romantic.

Hey, it could blossom from there! But we kick it off there, and maybe wrap it up there, too. It depends on how much I like the person.

How will you let them know that you like them?

I will smile at them and talk with them. I will suggest we should meet again and give out my number. They will see that I’m excited when I talk with them.

Guys in Hanoi are said to be dirt bags. Is this true?

Yeah. They feel like they can do whatever they want and get away with it. I fight fire with fire and become a dirt bag myself. I’ve been reading that I shouldn’t have feelings if I don’t want to get hurt. I think that’s quite applicable in Hanoi.

What’s your ideal first date?

It would need to be quiet rather than a crazy night out. I want to be able to talk freely. I don’t want to feel tired when talking to someone. It should flow naturally.

Are you looking for something serious or easy going?

I can’t be too serious from the beginning. We have to understand each other first, day by day, then work it out.

Have you ever used a motorbike to your advantage during a date?

In the way that you mean is so Vietnamese. But yes, [I drove] to go somewhere earlier than we should have done.

Nice. So you’re happy to make the first move on a date?

Absolutely! I get bored really easily so am happy to move things on.

I’ve never been shot down — you have to choose your target carefully to maintain your perfect record.

GLEN

27 / ENGLISH TEACHER 40 | The Word February 2012

TRA MY

24 / HOSPITALITY MANAGER

What’s the difference between Vietnamese and foreign men?

Vietnamese men are so conservative. I don’t like the influence the man’s mother and father have on him, and I would have to live with them if we were to get married. With foreign guys there is more to learn about each others’ culture.

February 2012 The Word | 41

F5

M2

You were late today! Are you always late to dates?

I’m a woman! I have the right to be late.

How long have you been single?

Five months. I’ve just come out of a relationship. Like for every man in the world, it’s a tough time, but I’m trying not to be too down about it. I’m just trying to take it easy. We don’t have to be too serious with who we meet. A date would be cool, but people shouldn’t expect too much from me.

How long have you been single?

Well, I’m single, but not alone.

If you like a guy on a date, how do you let him know?

He will feel it. I will talk more, ask more about him, take his number, ask him where he likes to go and then ask him if we can go together.

Where would you go to find some beautiful ladies in Hanoi?

I would like it to be more natural, like when you’re walking around in a park and just bump into someone. But honestly, I’m pretty bad at all this and am not the type of guy to drop one-liners on girls. In my past relationships, the girls have come after me.

Do you ever make the first move?

Actually, that’s not that important to me when two people like each other. Some women feel like they shouldn’t make the first move because the guy will think they are easy. But I don’t think that applies now, people are much more open. And if the guy thinks that the woman shouldn’t make the first move, then I won’t be with that guy.

Have you dated much in the past?

I had an American girlfriend for a while. I tried to date Vietnamese girls through school, college and university but for some reason, they’re not so interested. I don’t try to be a badass or overly sensitive. I just try to be myself.

So what qualities do you find most attractive in a man?

Can I have the guy who has everything? Or maybe it’s better to have a guy who’s like a blank piece of paper so I can teach him.

What’s your idea of a good first date?

Just taking it easy. Walking, talking, drinking, eating. There’s so much good food to eat, but I would probably take a date to eat pho cuon. It’s easy, light and not so crowded.

What’s the best drink for a first date?

Depends where you’re having the drink and the mood. I usually start with a glass of white wine or champagne.

If you’re about to break up with someone, what are you drinking?

Tequila (laughs)! I’m joking. It’s probably better to not drink then.

LY

24 / OPERATIONS MANAGER

M1

How long have you been single?

Three months. But I now have my dog, so I’m not completely single.

Is Hanoi a good place to date?

I’ve been here 10 years so I may take a woman to a bar and will always bump into someone I know or someone she knows. It’s quite a small place. But there are still places you can be private or intimate.

Is it hard to stay out of the ‘player’ game here?

Yes, but I stay faithful and have boundaries. Otherwise you ruin relationships.

What's your idea of a good first date?

I read that you have to be dashing, smashing and blow her roof off.

For me it could be anything. It’s about the people. The location can be warmed up with your attitude.

What attracts you to a woman?

Intelligence. And I like independent girls who are busy and not texting me every five minutes.

Is it more important to come across as a badass or a sensitive sweetheart?

I combine the two. Half badass, half sweetheart. 100 percent sweetheart would be a killer. You need to be a bit cheeky but not a complete asshole. I don’t do the whole one-liner thing. I prefer to keep it natural. One-liners put women off.

VIC

28 / INTERPETER 42 | The Word February 2012

Do you use your Vietnamese to speak to girls?

No. English is more of a sexy language, you can use it in different ways. You can be more smooth and relaxed, not so obvious.

So what can people expect from you?

Good fun, laughs, a good mood and good sex.

SON

What’s your favourite thing about women?

The way they make you feel that you are being supported. That’s what I like.

25 / TOUR GUIDE How is your love life in Hanoi?

I’ve been here two months and dating seems hard. I’m just not going to the right places to meet the right people. There’s a lot to do here as a couple but not so much on your own.

M3

So, no luck so far?

I work too many hours to socialize lots but I’ve been meeting a few girls — I’m not sure what’s going wrong, perhaps I’m coming across as too keen. One girl asked me to go to her house, and to go to karaoke with her family, I said yes, then I never heard from her again. She was a smoking hot 9X girl as well!

What’s your approach to dating?

I don’t need chat up lines. I just do Blue Steel [laughs]. I wear my heart on my sleeve. I’m pretty open, honest and sensitive; I can fall for someone pretty quickly.

You’re a personal trainer — do you get lots of attention for your tattoos?

Yeah, everyone keeps squeezing and touching my arms. Girls always seem more interested when they see my arms. That happened at home in the UK, too. People used to show more interest once I had taken my jacket off.

Will you tattoo the name of this date on your arms?

Haha — no way! That’s probably one for when I have a wife and family.

Are you one to make the first move?

Yeah, if all the signs are right you can expect me to lunge in. I hate the awkwardness associated with making the firstmove when you clearly both like each other.

PAUL

26 / PERSONAL TRAINER February 2012 The Word | 43

M4

How would you describe Hanoi’s dating scene?

It can be very playful with some crowds but very boring with others.

It depends on your personality. It depends on where you go. Hanoi lacks nightspots. And I think the pollution is getting worse; there aren’t many places to go outdoors and just take a walk.

How long have you been single?

Since September 2010. It’s not an easy place to be single — there are too many options!

So how do you meet girls?

I’m not that type of guy who will go and just hit on a girl at a bar. I like to get introduced to someone first and then get to know them. If I see them at the club… sure they can be fine, they can be pretty, but it could be just for show.

What interests you about a woman?

Appearance and their lifestyle… or their social side. If it’s suitable and we are compatible then I’ll get to know them better.

When you like someone, how do you let her know?

I think it’s obvious when you have feelings; it shows. Some people have cheesy pickup lines or they have certain tactics they use with women, but I don’t. I think I would just be sincere, straightforward and honest.

TONY

27 / OWNER OF MOO BEEFSTEAK

Are you looking for something serious now?

I’m still keeping my options open and seeing what comes down the line, but if I’m happy and I’m lucky then why not. I’m not trying to do whatever it takes to get a girlfriend.

What turns you off a woman?

Smell. Bad odour is never cool.

M5 How long have you been in Hanoi?

Ten months, and single the whole time. I’ve seen a few people but nothing serious. I’m pretty happy — it allows you to have fun.

What do you look for in a girl?

Appearance comes first because it’s the first thing you see — it could be a foreigner or Vietnamese. But after that, humour and intelligence.

I like sports so if we can have something in common with sports that would be good.

THERE WE HAVE IT. IT’S OVER TO YOU:

What’s the ideal first date?

Going somewhere we can talk and feel comfortable. It could start quiet then get more adventurous. It’s kind of bad jumping in without getting to know someone first. I like to try different things so it wouldn’t have to be a standard date, we could do anything. I can be quite romantic, but that all depends on the date.

Find the codes of your two favourite singletons and...

What can people expect on a date with you?

Just me. I’m myself. There’s no point being someone you’re not. I’m probably on the sensitive side of things and sometimes humorous.

SMS THEM TO 0933 371693

Do you carry condoms on the first date?

Better safe than sorry!

Have you ever been shot down when going in for the kill?

Yes. I was pretty wasted and had taken a girl’s number. She must have blocked me as soon as I took it — her phone was constantly busy. I called her from a different phone and it went straight through. She was hot, and denied it next time I saw her.

AL

or

EMAIL YOUR COMBINATION (E.G. M1/F5) TO EDITOR@ WORDHANOI.COM

or

TWEET YOUR VOTE TO: @WORDVIETNAM

Read all about the winning blind date in March, where we will interview the singles separately with the same questions — always fun. For now, though, vote, vote, vote!

26 / TEACHER 44 | The Word February 2012

February 2012 The Word | 45

"I LOOK TO TELL A STORY RATHER THAN JUST TAKING PORTRAITS OF THEM LOOKING INTO THE CAMERA"

THE BUSINESS OF LOVE

Justin Mott

Dang Ngoc Ha Anh

Age: 33 Occupation: Wedding Photographer Rates: High end

Age: 24 Occupation: Wedding Planner Rates: Between VND15 million to VND30 million per wedding

PEOPLE COME TO YOU SEEKING A SERVICE — THEY WANT THEIR LOVE CAPTURED IN A PHOTOGRAPH. HOW DO YOU DO THAT? I capture their personalities in a portrait in the same way you would do with an individual portrait. You capture their personality when together, whether its humorous or they’re madly in love with each other. You just hope to get a little bit of that in each picture.

WHAT IS THE HARDEST PART OF YOUR JOB? I have to break my budget down and then spend the money efficiently. At the end of the day, the wedding ceremony has to be beautiful and satisfy the bride and groom, all the while staying within the budget.

Love is everywhere. Word Q&As those that are smart enough to cash in on it

THERE ARE A LOT OF PHOTOGRAPHERS WHO SHOOT WEDDINGS PICTURES IN HANOI. HOW DO YOU STAND OUT? I pitch my style of photography as coming from a journalism and documentary photography background. So people hire me because I’m different. I look to tell a story rather than just taking portraits of them looking into the camera.

Nguyen Dinh Hien

Nguyen Ha Thanh

Age: 42 Occupation: Swan Boat Manager Rates: VND80,000 for two people per hour

Age: 28 Occupation: Owner of Kim Anh flower shop, Kim Ma Rates: VND25,000 to VND30,000 per rose from Dalat

WHAT MAKES A GOOD WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHER? Someone who can be there without being there and capture natural moments as they unfold, without interrupting the flow.

WHY ARE SWAN BOATS FOR LOVERS? Young people get out on the boats and once they are out there they have their own space. They are able to paddle together and it’s easy to talk. It’s good for young people... I see a bunch of people hugging and kissing all the time. Even when they get close to the dock they keep going at it.

HOW MANY FLOWERS DO YOU SELL ON BUSY DAYS? On Valentine’s Day, I sell up to 1,000 roses.

ON A WEEKEND HOW MANY BOATS WILL YOU RENT OUT? If the weather’s good we can rent out all of our boats, which is over 100.

DO YOU THINK ROSES WILL ALWAYS BE THE MOST SPECIAL GIFTS AMONG LOVERS? Yes. Now many people buy gifts, too. But I think flowers have a very special meaning and always will do.

IS THIS THE MOST ROMANTIC SPOT IN HANOI? I can’t say that it’s the most romantic spot, but according to the number of customers that come here, it’s definitely one of the more popular places.

WHAT ADVICE DO YOU GIVE TO PEOPLE WHO BUY FLOWERS FOR THEIR LOVERS? I think they should go for a simple wrapping. Many people want me to wrap a huge bunch with a lot of paper, they think bigger is better. But I think roses are good themselves with just a small ribbon. And that’s it.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE ABOUT YOUR JOB? I like flowers. And I like to play with them to make beautiful bunches. Listening to people’s story about their lovers is fun too. Some even tell me that they are buying flowers for their mistress.

Nguyen Thi Mai Age: 51 Occupation: Fortune Teller Rates: Donations DO PEOPLE COME TO YOU TO GET CONSULTATIONS ABOUT THEIR LOVE LIVES? Yes. Many come to ask me what dates are good to get married. Some come just to see how their love life will be, if they will meet a good husband or wife. And sometimes they ask what they should do to meet those people.

AND HOW DO YOU HELP THEM? I analyse their horoscope based on the time they were born and their astrological sign. It even shows the appearance of their future spouse. I prefer my customers to come without their lovers because if he or she doesn’t look like the ones shown in their horoscope, it’ll be hard for me to tell the truth.

HOW DO THE WEDDINGS YOU PLAN DIFFER FROM TRADITIONAL CEREMONIES? People in Vietnam host their wedding ceremony to receive money from their friends. But I want to create weddings that are memorable, happy days for the couple.

DO PEOPLE EVER MISUNDERSTAND YOUR JOB? Most people in Vietnam think that a wedding planner is a decorator. I don’t just decorate. I learn about the people I’m working with and try to make their wedding more personal.

Nguyen Hong Quang Age: 36 Occupation: MC and director of “Quick and Snow” music-request radio show HOW MANY REQUESTS DO YOU RECEIVE IN A WEEK? Over 1,000 emails. And we can only do nine requests per week.

YOU HAVE LED THIS TALK SHOW FOR 13 YEARS. HOW HAS LOVE IN HANOI CHANGED? People love at a younger age and show it more freely. Before people who sent us requests were normally college students but now we receive emails from even junior high school students. Girls are stronger in relationships, too. They are not hesitant to confess their feelings like before. And I think [pressures of] modern life makes people live more responsibly. Many emails tell me that the writers decided to stop the relationships and go back to focus on their career.

WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT PEOPLE’S TASTE IN MUSIC? It has changed as now the youngsters have more access to world music. I still feel that they’re listening with other people’s ears.

Sometimes we play nice foreign songs, which don’t become popular until people listen to a Vietnamese singer singing that song. At that time, they start to go back and request the foreign songs.

These interviews have been edited and condensed

46 | The Word February 2012

February 2012 The Word | 47

TRUE W SAYS NGUYEN PHUONG LINH

edding season is around the corner. Sitting alone in a café and watching couples take wedding photos around Hoan Kiem Lake, Thu Phuong asks herself whether or not she regrets breaking up with her boyfriend.

Phuong, 25, an embassy employee in Hanoi, met an English guy, Dave, at a friend’s party. They loved as naturally as they broke up.

Unlike many other couples, language was not a barrier for them. Sometimes it was difficult for Phuong to express her thoughts to Dave, as well as Dave’s occasional inability to understand what she wanted. But it didn’t matter much to them. Many other Vietnamese girls worry about what other people will say when they hang out with a foreigner. But not Phuong. She was very confident holding her boyfriend’s hand on the street, ignoring what people said. But the fact that Dave couldn’t communicate with her friends who couldn’t speak English, and especially her family, was a huge impediment for them. When meeting up with his friends who were all foreigners, sometimes she felt like a black sheep because, despite her efforts, she couldn’t understand everything they were discussing. And Dave saw this. Day after day, a wall was building up between them.

Phuong couldn’t remember how many times she had to explain to Dave how important “family values” are in Vietnam. He didn’t understand why they had to spend their holiday time buying presents for her parents,

48 | The Word February 2012

brothers and other, more distant, relatives. The gulf between them grew until Phuong’s mother visited them.

Dave became irritated and didn’t understand why she was allowed to stay in his house, in his bed, with his girlfriend while he had to sleep on the sofa. And Phuong, until now still thinks that once a guy loves her, he has to love her whole family.

Ironically, the very moment Phuong and Dave began to plan their marriage was the moment they decided to break up. Phuong, per Dave’s request, agreed to remove nuoc mam (fish sauce) from their menu and Dave agreed to visit her family twice a month.

But they couldn’t “negotiate” their roles within the family. As his girlfriend, Phuong accepted that they should share everything, including housework and money. But as his wife, she thought she had the right to look after their budget and do what a wife sees fit. This was too much for Dave.

Moreover, Dave expected they would live in his country after he finished his job in Vietnam. But for a traditional girl like Phuong, she could never accept leaving her family and she couldn’t make this concession with Dave. They chose to split up.

Sitting alone in a cafe, Phuong still thinks her last relationship was a pleasant memory but she never wants to date a foreigner again. It has too many challenges that not many intercultural couples can overcome.

An old Vietnamese idiom — Ta ve ta tam ao ta, du trong du duc ao nha van hon — translates to “We should go back to our local pond to bathe, whether it’s pure or dull, our home pond is always better”.

FALSE C SAYS JOE RUELLE

anadian immigration officials, much like Vietnamese café naming committees, are big on numbers.

Potential citizens get an exact number of points for being a university graduate, for knowing both French and English, for being related to citizens, or for simply having wandered the wheat fields for a few windswept years. While arbitrary at times, the system as a whole is fairly clear-cut, both in appraisal and payoff — nobody comes out with half a passport.

File that away for a moment and let’s move to the argument at hand: intercultural relationships are by no means doomed from the start. Those who insist they are, I suspect, would assert that love between two individuals from two (perhaps vastly) different cultural backgrounds is hard; there will be hurt feelings, confusion, intimacy breakdowns, and all said and done it’s best to steer clear of the road less travelled, or perhaps the yellow wood altogether.

This is ostensibly a losing argument, because everyone knows at least one intercultural couple as happy as fate will allow, and probably several ‘intra’ versions at each other’s throats day and night. Being aware of this, I suspect those who insist intercultural relationships are doomed from the start will point to such happy exceptions as proof of the sad rule, while at the same time stretch the definition of ‘happiness in love’ to cover as much of society as possible: grandmothers, aunties, kids, cats, the lot. The higher the number of people to please, the lower the chance of pleasing anyone, including yourself.

But such swivels and stretches do not a practical argument make. In the end, or in the case of this article, the middle, it comes down to passports and points. If success in love is compared to a Canadian passport (and why wouldn’t it be, really) then how many points does the relationship need to be

awarded one — and crucially, how many of those points come from having a similar cultural background?

I’m going to say 100 and 10. Being of the same culture — or at least of cultures similar enough that if they were primates they could mate — gets our two applicants a whopping 10 points, leaving them 90 away from the prize. Mutual intellectual stimulation probably nets them a good 30, with two-way physical attraction, shared television viewing history, matching class presence, synched financial mojo and the like also in the upper range. Granted things often change when religion enters the fray — sensitivities there can be worth 1,000 points each way — but for those ever-growing instances in which heaven and earth are not quite so jumbled up then yeah, you get about five points for being with the girl from down the road.

This is based on experiences I won’t describe, partly because they’re boring and partly because I need the remaining space for something which isn’t. I firmly believe there will come a time when humankind has blended into a single, cappuccinocoloured race. It may be tens of thousands of years away, but it will happen. The increasing pace of racial intermarriage is far exceeding evolution’s ability to pull genes apart.

The same will happen to culture — a cappuccino people with a cappuccino set of pop references and core beliefs. It’s happening now (faster than you can say Manchester United) and it won’t stop happening until we colonise planets too many light years away from each other for the Zorboxans to know what the Timbuktunians are watching on Friday night. So even though I have argued current intercultural relationships are not doomed, I must admit that the conditions allowing for their formation are. Indeed, the sheer abundance of intercultural love in this day and age is what guarantees its eventual demise in that cappuccino dawn all those years down the line.

February 2012 The Word | 49

DESTINATION

Battambang Cambodia’s second biggest city has been largely ignored due to the culturally rich attractions of nearby Siem Reap. Now it’s starting to open up.

Words by Nick Ross. Photos by Philip Burnett / www.photophil.us

W

e’ve been blessed with glorious weather — after 14 hours of grueling bus travel split over two days it’s a relief. First there was the golden glow of the early morning sun spreading over the river. Then the clouds descended only for them to evaporate as we headed north toward the Angkorian era temple, Ek Phnom. The sky is blue, but with a welcome December chill in the tropical air.

This is Battambang, Cambodia’s second

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largest city. Despite its size it has the aura of a provincial, colonial-built backwater.

A decade ago, says Sopheara, a Siem Reap native, the streets still had the fading, timeless air of today but without all the shops. He points to the pre-1975-era shop houses lining the grid-like streets close to the market. “All the shutters were closed,” he says. “There was nothing to buy.”

He adds: “I remember going on the bamboo train. When the real train came along the tracks we had to get off and wait

for it to pass.”

We haven’t journeyed on the bamboo train yet and Cambodia’s train system has since been dismantled. But we’ve earmarked our train excursion somewhat lazily into our plans for the next day. Life moves slowly in this city, and like the ambience that surrounds us, we, too, have put the brakes on our breakneck, modern metropolis speed. This is a place where time has done its best to stand still. Now, as witnessed by the growing number of

mobile phone and electronics stores, hair salons and tourist restaurants, it’s trying to limp forward. The place is moving, just not very fast.

Bang and Bong Ever since peace was finally declared in 1999, Cambodia has seen an exponential rise in international tourism. Setting Tomb Raider in Angkor Wat certainly helped, as have relatively cheap rents in the big cities, colonial and post-colonial architecture and surprisingly relaxed business laws. But the boom has focused itself on Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. Kampot and Kep have also had a look in, but beyond that, the towns and cities of this reawakened nation have remained largely untouched. Battambang — pronounced Batom-bong — due to its off-the-beaten-track location has fared badly. Until now.

Although requiring a detour from Siem Reap, a boat sporting to-die-for water vistas now transports passengers across the Tonle Sap to and from the temple complex of dreams. Like ourselves, most who make it to Battambang fall in love.

Part of the reason is because of how unaffected this city still is. The service, as

is typical of a place just opening its eyes to the outside world, is slow. The western fare remains simple and dull, making the cheaper and tastier Khmer cuisine a welcome alternative. But that is part of the charm. A few years will change all this, but for now it’s a pleasure to be able to eat a hearty meal for under 10,000 riel (VND50,000) instead of being bombarded with eating and drinking establishments catering for tourists. Try the Thaiinfluenced Khmer version of hu tieu Nam Vang (Chinese pork noodle soup) next to White Rose restaurant in town. It’s a step up from the version you get in Vietnam.

As we detour by an abandoned Pepsi factory still sporting the iconic logo of old, we’re allowed to wander. The caretaker, a toothless, uniformed old man who has probably witnessed more changes than he would care to count, reluctantly lets us in.

He’s not supposed to, as he tells us, and as we discover later many a tourist and tuk-tuk driver enter the complex without his leave. They depart the same way, he says, without even a thank you. A ‘thank you’ means a tip in Cambodia, which is as important as tourism itself. Without the dollar-here-dollar-there culture, the whole

industry would fall apart. It takes its toll on the daily budget, but the locals view it as requisite.

The factory itself is locked up, but there are enough windows, gated entrances and crannies for us to peak inside. Except for a few families who have built shacks within the grounds, the building has been deserted. For a while, we are told, it was converted into an ice factory — that was during Khmer Rouge times and in the conflict-created impasse that followed.

But now, except for an outhouse used as a garage and a section converted into a kitchen, the commercial symbol of the west stands prey to the elements.

As we are close to leaving, some children appear on bicycles. They’re intrigued by our cameras and one poses with a silly face. Then a young woman appears out of the undergrowth wearing a sarong and a Diet Coke t-shirt.

Trainspotting A few kilometres further on we have our second encounter with antiquity within a morning, but this time, one with a religious context. The complex of Ek Phnom will come as a let down for

February 2012 The Word | 51

“We say train, let’s get this straight. The vehicle is essentially a bamboo platform seating six that is set on removable wheels with a motorbike engine”

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anyone swept off their tuk tuks by the grandeur of Angkor. But, as a temple in its own right, it makes for a worthwhile trip. An enormous white-washed Buddha statue sits close to the entrance which is also flanked by the typical but forever eye-catching Khmer-style pagoda. Cloaked in gold-painted dragons, sky-blue elephants, scenes from the life of Buddha and flowery concrete detailing, this is one of the more flamboyant versions of those that carpet the country. While the Angkorian-style temple ruins sat behind mark the Cambodia of old, so this pagoda is the country of today. Both are endearing.

As with all culturally significant tourist attractions in Cambodia, we are forced to pay for entrance while our Khmer friend goes in for free — local legs are good, foreign legs are better. On this occasion it’s only US$2 (VND42,000) to wander around the site and, as we discover, our tickets are also valid for Phnom Sampov, the Killing Caves to the southeast of Battambang (we’re not actually given a ticket so we have to phone through to the guards to guarantee entrance). Regardless, it’s all part of a milking the festive calf process that can often leave a bitter aftertaste, especially when the locals go for free. No matter how extensive the poverty in Cambodia, the discrimination is an unwelcome part of the trip. The bamboo train the next day is extortionate. On this occasion foreigners pay US$5 (VND105,000) per person to take a 14km train journey while locals also have to chip in — they get the trip for US$2 (VND42,000).

It’s worthwhile. This is, after all, the last train in Cambodia. But there does remain that feeling of not-so-positive discrimination.

When we say train, let’s get this straight. The vehicle is essentially a bamboo platform seating six that is set on removable wheels with a motorbike engine. Imagine movies out of the Wild West where dodgy characters rig up a self-propelled vehicle to take advantage of the train tracks and you get the idea. I have done the full range of attractions in this region but this has to rank as the weirdest trip I have ever taken. It’s not that sitting on a hard bamboo platform under the glaring sun is particularly unpleasant. It’s just the lack of necessity of the whole venture, unless you want to act out a scene from the movie O Brother, Where Art Thou?

Not even the countryside is particularly nice. And yet it’s fun, especially when competing trains try to pass from opposite directions — whoever wins the give way battle stays on the line while the rival vehicle disassembles and moves off to the rails to the side. It’s a complex process.

Conversely, the million or so bats flying in tandem at sunset out of Phnom Sampov is one of the most awe-inspiring sights you will see in this region, as are the soaring views from the top of this limestone, karst-like mountain that, before the Mekong Delta silted up the land, would have been a Halong Bay-style island in the sea.

And this perhaps best defines Battambang. In places it is quite phenomenal, laced with intrigue and natural beauty. And at other times it seems to lack or act as a drain on the wallet. But as a new, fully open destination in Cambodia, this town should be part of your itinerary.

February 2012 The Word | 53

CULTURE

To mark 40 years of diplomacy between the two countries, Kaukab Jhumra Smith looks at how Indian culture is growing fast in Vietnam’s capital. Photos by Dominic Blewett

INDIAN DAWN

The Indians are coming.

In a way, they were already here. More than a thousand years ago, in fact. But that was toward the south, where they left imprints of their presence in the form of multi-armed deities, ancient Hindu and Buddhist temples and mosques, and a vibrant trading community reaching back across generations.

The further north you moved, however, the more this cultural influence waned. Until about five years ago, there were just a handful of Indians in Hanoi — mostly businessmen married to Vietnamese.

Modern diplomatic relations between India and Vietnam began 40 years ago. The cordial tone was set earlier, when Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru became one of the first visitors

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to Vietnam after its victory over the French in 1954. President Ho Chi Minh visited India in 1958.

In the last five years, Hanoi has seen a steady trickle of Indian residents. Soon, that may swell to a stream. The influx is propelled by Vietnam’s increasing openness to foreign investment and its expanding demand for international expertise, especially in information technology and financial services. Trade between the two countries rose a dramatic 40 percent during 2010 to more than US$3 billion last year, with both sides recently pledging to reach US$7 billion in trade by 2015.

A senior consular official at the Indian Embassy, Rupin Sharma, estimates the number of Indians in Hanoi has increased by 15 percent in the last year alone. He expects that pace to continue, although the actual numbers are small — no more than 350 individuals, including

February 2012 The Word | 55

“The authorities chose to continue honouring Gandhi at a new location in 2007 rather than simply eliminating her park in preparation for the city’s 1,000-year anniversary”

children, though others in the community offer figures as low as 150. Those with families often head to Ciputra, attracted by others in the community and by the international school.

This wave of new residents appears likely to leave a mark on Hanoi. Already, their burgeoning numbers have prompted the Indian Business Chamber in Vietnam (INCHAM) to request permission to build a Hindu place of worship in the capital, and the Indian Embassy plans to establish a cultural centre for expats and the Vietnamese public.

The New Hanoians There are the Indians who work for the Embassy, of course, and there are the businessmen. Those two groups form the cultural heart of the Indian community in Hanoi, often co-sponsoring large gatherings for holidays like Holi or Diwali.

Then there are the international NGO workers, and now, increasingly, there are young professionals like Arnab Ghosh.

Arnab, 31, a Calcutta native, recently chose a job with Maritime Bank in Hanoi over two other offers from companies in the Middle East.

“When I came for an interview, I fell in love with the place,” says Arnab. “It had the perfect balance with culture and heritage mixed with modern nightlife.”

He compares the vibe in Hanoi to the vibrant, hopeful feel of post-1990s India.

“Everyone is mushy-gushy here. It's a place for love. It's not a place for one-night stands.”

Nemat Hajeebhoy, 41, would be considered a veteran Hanoian. She moved here in 2009 to start up a five-year infant and child-nutrition project for an American NGO. She admits she’d rather live in Ho Chi Minh City — for the warm weather and big-city vibe — but she easily ticks off several things she likes about Hanoi: the diverse food, the free and plentiful Wi-Fi spots, the warm people. But most of all, she says, she feels secure here.

Professionally-employed, single Indian women like Nemat are a rarity in Hanoi.

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SEE THE SIGHTS Yes, it’s the south of Vietnam that most demonstrates the impact of ancient and modern India, but you can honour the 40th anniversary of Indian and Vietnamese diplomacy by taking this self-guided tour around Vietnam’s capital city.

THE BODHI TREE: Start your tour at the 1,400-year-old Tran Quoc Pagoda, one of Hanoi’s oldest, on Thanh Nien Road on West Lake. Walk past the tall red tower toward the back of the pagoda site, where a large tree with a gnarled trunk stands tall in a 20-footwide pot painted like a lotus flower. Said to be a cutting of the original Bodhi tree under which Buddha reached enlightenment, it was given to Vietnam in 1959 by Indian President Rajendra Prasad.

VETERAN' HANOIAN

THE TAGORE BUST: Head next to the brandspanking-new Literature Museum at the end of Ngo 275, Au Co Street, where — in theory,

anyway — you’ll find a bronze bust of Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore, complete with flowing beard. It was unveiled a couple of months ago in honor of his 150th birthday but is sometimes moved to make room for other events.

INDIRA GANDHI PARK: Head to 18 Lang Ha Street. The PetroVietnam Tower looms above a picturesque park with its own little lake, a patch of serenity named after assassinated Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. Her likeness, cast in metal, gazes out on to the park. The original Indira Gandhi Park was located near Hoan Kiem Lake, where the statue of Ly Thai To now stands. Significantly, the authorities chose to continue honoring Gandhi at a new location in 2007 rather than simply eliminating her park in preparation for the city’s 1,000-year anniversary.

HO CHI MINH MUSEUM: Make your way to the Ho Chi Minh Museum at 19 Ngoc Ha. Upstairs,

look for the display of Uncle Ho’s walking stick and dumbbells near the pagoda-shaped installation marking his death. Flip through the plexiglass-covered documents next to these and you’ll find a 1968 letter to Indira Gandhi typed in Vietnamese and criss-crossed with Ho Chi Minh’s handwritten edits in red ink.

Take a Vietnamese speaker with you and try to figure out what the letter says.

COMPUTER TECHNOLOGY CENTRE: The last stop of the day is the Vietnam-India Advanced Resource Centre in Information and Communications Technology, located in Thanh Xuan district. The VND42 billion project funded by the Indian government was inaugurated in September by Indian Foreign Minister S. M. Krishna. Dubbed “a modern temple of learning”, the centre will train Vietnamese personnel in preparation for the government’s move to electronic records management by the end of 2015.

Nemat Hajeebhoy

February 2012 The Word | 57

"Vietnamese cuisine has a lot of options to offer other countrymen, but how you explore that cuisine is up to the person"

MANAGER OF KHAZAANA, HANOI'S OLDEST INDIAN RESTAURANT Mani Trivedi

CHANGING TASTES

When South Indian businessman Gopi traveled to Paris in 1996, his sightseeing group was given 90 minutes to visit the top of the Eiffel Tower. Gopi opted to pose for a photo in front of the tower instead, using the rest of his time to search for a good Indian lunch.

“Indians never compromise on their food,” says Gopi, 52, the voluble owner of Namaste Hanoi, the city’s newest Indian restaurant, and the former manager of Khazaana, the city’s oldest. “When I go out, I always hunt out Indian food.”

He’s not alone.

“Indians are very poor at adapting to most other food except South Asian,” says Rupin Sharma, an Indian Embassy official who has lived in Hanoi for a year and a half. “We have a special liking for fried food and masalas (spices).”

As a result, new Indian transplants often look upon Vietnamese cuisine with suspicion,

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considering it bland and undercooked. Sales manager Subhash ate only white rice and omelettes for six months after moving from Mumbai to Vietnam in 2007, despite intentions of settling down with his long-time Vietnamese girlfriend-now-wife. He just couldn’t stomach any other food. Take the famous pho bo.

“When you see the beef, it’s cut very small.

They just dip it into the soup one or two times,” Subhash says. “You think, ‘Oh my God, it’s not cooked!’”

It’s not just the preparation that’s a problem. A lot of Vietnamese ingredients, particularly pork and other meat, are prohibited for vegetarian, Muslim or other devout Indian diners. It’s impossible for a non-beef-eating Hindu, for example, to enjoy a vast variety of dishes in Vietnam. As a result, many Indian expats who move to Hanoi with their families would rather cook familiar dishes at home, or seek refuge in one of the city’s five Indian restaurants.

Khazaana manager Mani says that when he first came to Hanoi he couldn’t understand how the Vietnamese could feel full after eating noodles.

In India, a bowl of Maggi noodles is considered a snack, he explains.

Three years later, he knows better. “It’s not [all about noodles],” Mani says. “They also have curries, grilled meats, vegetarian food and breads, like we have in our own cuisine. It’s not the same but similar… I would say that Vietnamese cuisine has a lot of options to offer other countrymen, but how you explore that cuisine is up to the person.”

Even Subhash ultimately conquered his squeamishness.

“I tell myself you’re going to live here, so do as the Romans do,” he says. “I start to try it slowly, and now pho bo is one of my favourite breakfasts.”

In fact, Subhash says he now eats everything. He pauses. “Except dog. I cannot eat dog.”

CHAIRMAN OF INCHAM HANOI Navendu Kumar

Often, men like Arnab — because by and large, the Indians filling the growing demand in certain sectors are men — bring spouses who may be interrupting their own careers to move to a place where the language, food and job market feel particularly alien.

“I wake up in the morning, I have nothing, no agenda, nothing on my calendar,” says Juneli Roy, 29, Arnab’s wife, who worked in sales for an IT company in Chennai before moving to Hanoi for Arnab’s job. She’s trying to find work, but it’s been a frustrating process.

“I’ve never been so jobless in my entire life,” she says.

Some professionals may come here for just long enough to complete a project and then return to India. Shweta Bhave, 35, a banker turned stay-at-home mum to a toddler, spent a “short and beautiful” seven months in Hanoi with her husband, who was on assignment for a German bank. They moved back last summer.

“I do appreciate the fact that the class divide in Vietnam did not seem to be as glaring as it is in India and I have become more respectful toward my household staff here than I was before,” writes Shweta from Mumbai. The list of things she missed from Hanoi was long, and included cycling around West Lake and sipping ca phe sua da by the water.

Eager or reluctant, short-term or long, Hanoi’s new residents are likely to leave a mark on the city, just as the city is likely to mark them. Their children are likely to be born here, like one-year-old Mrinalini, the daughter of Mani Trivedi, 30, who manages the Indian restaurant Khazaana (1 Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem). Mrinalini’s name means “lotus”. Or like Suzan, the two-and-a-half-year-old daughter of sales professional Subhash Chandar, 30, whose name combines sounds from the names of her Indian father and Vietnamese mother.

Some new residents, like Subhash, may even decide to bring their parents from India to live here permanently.

“You have more options to grow with this country… So I think a better place to live for the future is Vietnam,” he says.

February 2012 The Word | 59

LEISURE

CREATIVE INKING

Hai Vu looks at the changing tattoo scene in Vietnam — past and present — to discover that what was once taboo is now an act of creative expression. Photos by Dominic Blewett

T

o the western eye, tattoos have become nothing more than fashion accessories —albeit very permanent ones.

A form of personal expression once relegated to society’s underbelly, the tattoo has planted itself firmly into our cultural psyche. With notable international celebrities, such as David Beckham and Angelina Jolie, sacrificing their skin to the art, perceptions about tattoos have definitely changed in the last decade.

Tattoos have become mainstream, perhaps even pedestrian. It’s difficult to argue otherwise when they can be seen paraded around by an endless drove of 20-something urbanites on any given weekend.

However, in Asia, where the roots of

60 | The Word February 2012

tradition are implanted far deeper, the topic of tattooing is still quite taboo. It may be slow in coming, but one can sense change brewing in the minds of Vietnam’s younger population. As the generation gap widens, the strict ideologies passed down from previous generations are left in the fray. The youth of Vietnam are looking to build new traditions, but are treading lightly when doing so.

“No one has ever disqualified me for a job because I have a tattoo,” says Vu Manh Cuong, 27, from Hanoi. A native of Vietnam, Cuong recently returned to Hanoi after studying in Sweden for four years. While there, he met a beautiful tattoo artist at a party, and, a few days later, he found himself in her tattoo chair sacrificing five percent of his arm to her.

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"The Hanoi Tattoo Club boasts a diverse clientele. The ratio of male to female customers is roughly 50/50 and includes both foreign and Vietnamese patrons" “However,” Cuong continues, “I do care about what Vietnamese partners think of me professionally. I hide it when meeting those who embrace traditional values, but I have never been stigmatised by anyone.

In fact many people are interested in knowing where I got my tattoo done, and it is one of the things I love to show off to feel related to the youngsters here.”

This group of youngsters branded the “9X Generation” — a reference to those born in the 90’s — grew up in the country’s economic and developmental growth period. With opportunity at their doorsteps and the influences of the west a mouse click away, Vietnam’s youth have been empowered to experiment with various forms of fashion and artistic expression, including tattooing. And they are doing so at the chagrin of the elder class, as many traditionalists still believe that body art is synonymous with ruffians.

Kim Vy, 28, from Ho Chi Minh City, sports four tattoos: two on her ribs, one on her finger, and the latest on her leg.

“There are a lot of people who cannot stand tattoos here. [They think] people who have tattoos have something wrong with them,” she says.

Vy’s older brother disapproves of her tattoos, but has accepted her choice to have them. Not everyone is as tolerant.

“Yes, sometimes, I catch some annoyed eyes when [people] see my tattoos,” she says.

This stigma was the reason why Vy took great measures to hide her tattoos from family members for over a year.

However, living in close quarters doesn’t leave much room for keeping secrets. It

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was inevitable that she would eventually be exposed.

“My mum saw the one on my leg first.

I had to lie and say it was just a drawing.

Eventually I got tired of hiding them and decided to tell her the truth. She was angry and shocked. She asked me, ‘Are you crazy? What happened to you?

Do you know that you cannot remove them?’ But I told her that I don't have any intention of removing them.”

Changing Perceptions At the forefront of this culture sits Tran Chi Hieu, manager of the Hanoi Tattoo Club, which launched in Hanoi eight years ago. Hieu remembers the struggles in trying to gain acceptance for the art nearly a decade ago.

“Vietnamese people [once] despised tattoos because most of the people with tattoos [had a shady past]. Tattoos were done with needles wrapped with thread, and melted down their slippers to use as ink. But, in fact, tattooing appeared in Vietnam thousands of years ago.”

The period that Hieu refers to is that of the Hung Vuong era (circa 2879 BC), where legendary Vietnamese pearl divers tattooed elaborate images on their backs to fend off mythological sea monsters during their dives. So many of these men existed that when the first settlers of Vietnam established the state of Van Lang along the Red River Delta, it was dubbed “The Land of the Tattooed Men”.

Not a tattoo artist himself, Hieu employs seven young artists at the shop and provides them with a safe haven for exploring their creativity, including

opportunities to draw and paint flash art, lessons in tattooing, and nightly musical jam sessions.

“I saw that the Vietnamese had the wrong impression about tattoos, and I wanted to change that,” he says. “Plus, I wanted to create an opportunity [where] people with a passion for tattooing could make money from their skills.”

In a bold attempt to change the stereotype, Hieu also enforces a strict policy on who his club will work on. “The club rules are no swearing, no smoking, and no addictive drugs. Follow these rules and only then can you join the club and get tattooed by us.”

These days, the Hanoi Tattoo Club boasts a diverse clientele. The ratio of male to female customers is roughly 50/50 and includes both foreign and Vietnamese patrons.

“My happiness was at zero when I first opened because of the hardship I had to endure, but now I am at a seven,” says Hieu.

This still leaves room to further broaden the Vietnamese mindset toward tattoos, but it’s clear that Hieu won’t be fighting the crusade alone.

As Vietnamese youth are nursed on music, movies, and the internet, a line is being drawn between the modern and the traditional. With the country hurtling toward globalisation, Vietnam has had to swiftly discover its own identity on the world stage. Therefore, it seems only fitting that its children, too, are uncovering their own unique identities through this painful and everlasting form of creative expression.

February 2012 The Word | 63

O

wonderful reduction in my ability n approaching the villa MYSTERY DINER to function as a (relatively) normal that houses new Korean human being. The heat. You restaurant Bong Chu, it’s become a prisoner of your own easy to feel that you have mouth. Before long, myself and been invited to dine at a plush, my dining partner are blubbering Ambassadors’ residency. The to each other across the table like a building is magnificent, and surely pair of emotional wrecks. one of the most exteriorly beautiful Check the menu again and restaurants in the city. A well-kept, While one-dish establishments are usually saved as anticipated there is a pool of gated courtyard instantly seduces gravy remaining in the dish. The and beckons you in, with candle lit for the street, our secret diner experiences the waitress promptly plops in to the tables, healthy-looking palm trees concept in a one-of-a-kind Korean restaurant. mixture a fat pancake of fried rice and bright potted plants dotted Photos by Dominic Blewett (VND40,000). Surprisingly light around methodically. You’d be and fragrant, the rice does do some forgiven for feeling underdressed. similar to a Lancashire hotpot or an Irish stew. work to cool us down. The final You’re welcomed in like a It’s a perfect winter warmer dish, with large stage in consuming this meal correctly is to visiting friend, and the articulate English, chunks of chicken on the bone, carrot, potato, drink the cold bowl of dong chi mi, which Vietnamese and Korean speaking waiting onion, pepper, cabbage and beans, cooked in feels very much like cooling your face down staff are at first overly keen to get my order a deep and rich gravy, poured over a bed of in a refrigerator. A saviour in the form of before I have sat down, but later mellow thick and heavy glass noodles. two squares of melon brings us back into the and are just about the right balance between How brilliant to have a menu that offers attentive and friendly. One thing I have room, and with a swig of soju (VND120,000) a step-by-step guide advising you how best always loved about many Korean and the experience is complete. to enjoy the food: Underneath the simmered Japanese restaurants is the shape and size of *It is highly advisable that you visit the chicken you will find special cellophane noodles the sturdy rectangular wooden tables. There’s amenities. Not only is there a magazine rack — make sure to eat the noodles first! Well, I can enough space for two people to dine together offering a fine variety of reading materials, try. Eating noodles with metal chopsticks is without being too far away from each other there is also a rather grand looking bath, a a challenge at the best of times, but eating or too close. Decoration is sparse; none of bidet and a fine selection of hand washes and glass noodles covered in a thick, slippery the external features are replicated in this hand creams. sauce, well, that’s another article entirely. particular room, and the light is somewhat Metal chopsticks. They make you eat very, unforgiving. But a clean, open space, soundBONG CHU very slowly. I turn the menu over hoping tracked by just a whisper of music is a good for advice on how to win this battle but enough environment to focus entirely on the B40 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Trung Hoa alas no, just beer and wine, and a very nice food.

Nhan Chinh, Thanh Xuan selection too.

The unique selling point of Bong Chu, Tel: 6680 1423 The spices that make up the glorious aside from it being the only one of it’s kind gravy remain a secret. The waitress says, “It in the city, is that there is just one dish being has pepper, and everything else is a Korean served. The dish (VND420,000) provides THE VERDICT OUT OF 15 secret”. And so it shall remain. But what I ample portions for two people, and with the hadn’t anticipated was the gradual increase in help of a giant pair of scissors and a decent Food: 13 Decor: 10 Service: 13 heat inside my belly, my mouth and then my pair of tongs, it is something of a challenge ears, my eyes and my nose. Over the course to consume. But it is good fun. On first sight The Word reviews anonymously and of twenty minutes, what starts as a pleasant the steaming concoction of chicken and pays for all meals tingle at the back of the throat turns into a vegetables in gravy does look remarkably

64 | The Word February 2012

Bong Chu

B

ecause oysters are often purported to carry aphrodisiac power, because even a slight allusion to sex will make this article more interesting, but mainly because fresh oysters are just incredible, indulgence will be encouraged here.

Hanoi’s oysters mostly come from Nha Trang or Hai Phong. The majority would be classified as large to extra large and are served raw or grilled. Central stops for oyster seekers in Hanoi include Cau Go and Tong Duy Tan. Cau Go, just north of Hoan Kiem Lake, is where the oyster hunt begins. It’s a lively street even on a rainy night and seafood options abound. Along with some dining companions, our first stop is at number 46 on the corner of Hang Be with an ambience of shaggy trees packed with incense. The owner has a professional demeanor and wears thick earmuffs that demand customers speak up to get her attention. When ordered in the typical tay fashion — pointing, nodding, smiling — the oysters are delivered raw. Nuong (grilled) is also an option when specified.

When American rapper Ol’ Dirty Bastard sang the lyric, “baby I like it raw,” he was actually referring to the oysters at 46 Cau Go. After cleaning, cracking and prying, the oysters are delivered on the half shell with a side of lime and a special lime sauce with chilies and salt. Taken all at once after some small fork manoeuvering, the pillowy oyster goes down splendidly, leaving a milky residue in the empty shell and a hunger for more. Though lacking the briny just-pulledfrom-the-ocean taste, the velvety goodness holds. VND25,000 per con hao (oyster).

Grilled versions usually run the risk of overpowering an oyster’s delicate flavour,

STREET SNACKER

Oysters

feel on this familiar street — it’s here for more than the post binge drinking late night snack. Though the clams may be the crowning achievement of this place, the oysters are not far behind.

In a bold and cold move, the raw oysters are served underneath a pile of chipped ice. Limes and a mixture of smaller key limes, salt, pepper, chillies and a touch of MSG accompany the large half shells — at VND20,000 each. Some ice shoveling is required before eating, after which the oysters can be slurped with ease. For some, the ice chill may add a welcome burst of cold in the throat, for others, it is yet another way of dampening the naturally rich flavour.

The grilled guys are attractively presented on personal plates. The plump morsels lay hidden beneath a layer of cilantro, fried shallots, a dollop of scallions in mildly spicy oil and a fried egg. It’s quite a collection packed into the shell, which, after being grilled, takes on a slightly and deliciously charred taste. Though be sure not to get any of the flakes of the shell in your bite.

Equipped with pen and paper, I lucked out with a perfectly cooked egg. Other less fortunate diners had too well done eggs and missed out on the runny yolk. The combination is diverse in flavour, but difficult to eat in a one-bite-takes-all style that make oysters so fun.

As the rain quietly continues to fall, the collection of oyster carcasses, half-full stomachs, and half-empty beer bottles acquired over dinner have paved the way for a night of sweet romance — or, something like that.

Another spot to check out is Hang Luoc Street. Happy hunting.

Oysters are for lovers or those who like it raw, says Kaitlin Rees.

Photos by Dominic Blewett especially for those who believe that it is “criminal to do anything but eat it with a squeeze of a lemon,” says dining companion Number One. Nevertheless, for research purposes, and for VND30,000 per animal, the grilled oysters are worth a try. They come hot and under a blanket of crispy fried shallots with an egg that could be initially confused with cheese. It is not cheese. But, “it could be anything in there,” is the complaint of the same dining companion who longed for the raw and slimy nuances.

Tong Duy Tan is a predictable stop for any food search. Yet Number 30 has an unfamiliar

"The grilled guys are attractively presented on personal plates. The plump morsels lay hidden beneath a layer of cilantro, fried shallots, a dollop of scallions in mildly spicy oil and a fried egg"

February 2012 The Word | 65

City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 067 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 070 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 077 / LEISURE & ARTS LISTINGS 084 / FASHION LISTINGS 090 / HOME LISTINGS 092 / MEDICAL LISTINGS 094 PHOTO BY DOMINIC BLEWETT

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 067 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 067 BUSINESS CONSULTING 067 BUSINESS GROUPS 067 COPYWRITING 068 CORPORATE GIFTS 068 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 068 INSURANCE 068 INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS 068

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BEVERLY INVESTMENT

B003A, B Building, The Manor, My Dinh Tel: 794 9669 www.beverly.vn Professional investment company dealing with real estate resort, hotel and senior housing projects all over the country.

Working to promote sustainable development, Beverly provides good value for its partners, investors, customers and society.

TMF GROUP

8th floor, 53 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 9733 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 2220 2660 Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang Street, District 1, HCMC Tel: 3910 2262 www.tmf-group.com TMF is headquartered in The Netherlands, with over 86 offices in 65 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services.

Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam.

This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

KPMG

16th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3946 1600 www.kpmg.com.vn Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also does executive search and selection.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS

7th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3946 2246 www.pwc.com Provides business services including au-

LEONITO visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

INVESTMENT & FINANCE 068 LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 069 LEGAL SERVICES 069 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 069 MARKET RESEARCH 069 PUBLIC 069 RECRUITMENT & HR 069 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 069 SERVICED APARTMENTS 070 diting, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

THANG LONG AUDITING COMPANY 313 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4976 2055 A Vietnamese company with more than 30 representative branches outside of Hanoi, Thang Long provides a full range of services, including audit, accounting, tax, corporate secretarial and business consultancy.

TMF VIETNAM COMPANY LIMITED

2811, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: 3910 922 www.tmf-group.com With over 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. TMF is expanding rapidly throughout the world. Learn more about our unique network and our services by visiting our website.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING GREY GROUP

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.grey.com/vietnam Founded in 1917 in New York, Grey is a full spectrum global communications company offering branding, advertising, marketing, digital, and PR, with offices in 100 countries. Grey is the only agency with a specialised HoReCa team.

In Vietnam the client roster includes Vinaphone, Levis, TNT, ESPN, Bayer, Samsung Mobile, BaoViet, P&G, BAT, and 35 other top local and international brands.

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com In addition to their own clients, Leonito works in partnership with the Grey Group, a major full-spectrum marketing and communications company with offices in nearly 100 countries. Services include research, branding, activations, events and public relations.

OGILVY & MATHER

advisory and training products to private sector enterprises and NGOs.

ERNST & YOUNG

Daeha Business Centre, 15th Floor, 360 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3831 5100 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalize on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, stateowned and foreign.

8/F Tien Phong Newspaper Building, 15 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 3914 www.ogilvy.com International marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know-how with a worldwide network.

Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

T&C INVESTMENT HOLDING

T&A COMMUNICATIONS

AMCHAM

LEONITO MARKETING CONSULTING

AUSCHAM

104 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 3913 T&A is a marketing services company set up in Hanoi in 1995. Since then, they’ve offered their marketing services to several large overseas companies. They also work in co-operation with WPP, a world-wide brand communications firm.

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co Street, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com Leonito develops marketing campaigns & behaviour change communications strategies for commercial brands and nongovernment organizations. Services: brand development; design & printing; gifts & premiums; marketing; public relations & events. Clients include multi-national brands and NGOs.

L3-14 Thuy Khue. Ba Dinh. Tel: 3728 0776 www.t-cgroup.com A well-known Vietnamese conglomerate of companies operating since 1994, T&C’s focus is on providing internationalstandard consultation to engineering and infrastructure projects. They also provide market research consulting.

BUSINESS GROUPS M Floor, Business Center, Hilton Hanoi Opera, 1 Le Thanh Tong. Tel: 3934 2790 www.amchamhanoi.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

10 Lane 283 Doi Can, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3762 2282 www.auschamvn.org An organisation bringing together Australian companies and individuals doing business in Vietnam, the Australian Chamber of Commerce offers advice on doing business. Also offers networking opportunities and social events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

BOOZ ALLEN HAMILTON, INC.

91 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0906 240159 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

DICKERSON KNIGHT GROUP

185 Giang VoSt., Dong Da. Tel: 3512 1846 www.lacviet.com.vn Since its founding in 1994, professional services and innovative solutions has led LAC VIET to a recognized position of leadership in Vietnam. LAC VIET employs more than 400 professionals in IT services and product development. LAC VIET is a certified MicrosoftTM Gold Partner; CiscoTM Premier Reseller; Dell Distributor and Authorised Service Provider(DASP).

BUSINESS CONSULTING Room 703, 7th Floor, MOF Project Building, No. 4, Lane 1, Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 9662 www.boozallen.com A US-based private consulting firm, Booz Allen Hamilton is one of the most notable names in the business. This firm has a long track record of assisting governments and multi-nationals in risk assessment and mission development.

33A Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 2692 www.thinkdkg.com Established in 1991, this international firm has extensive experience in emerging markets. Their speciality is in providing

LAC VIET COMPUTING CORP

ADD ITIONAL FEAT URE S

Destination Zero 072 Medical Buff 086 Music Buff 087 Cinema Buff 088 Book Buff 089 Food Buff 093 66 | The Word February 2012

February 2012 The Word | 67

CCIFV

Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2229. www.ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM

G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2228. www.eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM

Suite 504, Thanh Ha Building, Linh Dam Tel: 3641 6864. www.nordchamhn.org.vn Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Level 4, Kim Ma Building, 561 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3771 1004. www.sbav-hanoi.org An association that actively fosters business relations with other business communities while promoting social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities.

COPY WRITING ABLE COMMUNICATION

Tel: 0913 502829 able@fpt.vn An experienced editor is available

HANOI WEBSITES HANOIGRAPEVINE.COM The place to go for all things related to the arts in a city that is developing its own, vibrant contemporary arts scene. Has event calendars, event postings, blogs, addresses and contact details, and covers anything from classical music through to installations, rock concerts and more.

INFOSHAREHANOI.COM Provides the expat community with essential information for living and working in Hanoi including comprehensive and up-to-date events listings as well as address lists of galleries, cinemas, theatres, hotels, housing agencies, embassies and much more. Subscribe to receive their weekly newsletter.

LINKHANOI.COM Event photos, a what’s on calendar, restaurant and bar listings and in fact, pretty much everything you want to know about nightlife in Hanoi can be found on this popular website.

Also organize regular events and parties.

NEWHANOIAN.COM The city’s best known website, The New Hanoian provides user-generated listings, reviews and event information on pretty much anything and everything in the capital. Register, create your profile, write a review and receive frequent newsletters.

WORDHANOI.COM The online extension of The Word, contains both content from the print edition as well as blogs, events, news, a what’s on calendar, party photos and much more. Also has downloadable PDF versions of the whole publication.

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to proofread copy and help produce inspired communication or marketing collateral. Able Communication has been providing professional services and solutions to Vietnam’s business community since 2003. For more information about how we can help your organisation, call or e mail.

CORPORATE GIFTS REGAL PREMIUMS

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.regalvietnam.com Regal Premiums produces trendy corporate gifts, premiums gifts, promotional gifts and branded mass giveaway items.

Professional team helps with design to fit your brand and production and logistics to fit your budget.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CB RICHARD ELLIS (VIETNAM) CO., LTD

6 Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 0220 www.cbrevietnam.com Finding the perfect accommodation to meet your various demands in Hanoi is made simple thanks to CBRE’s residential leasing team. Our services are inclusive of site finding, travelling fees, contract negotiation and resolving any other issues which arise during the term of the lease, all of which are free of charge for the tenant.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

9th floor, Vinaplast, Tai Tam Building, 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 2220 5888 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represent property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property.

Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management and support services.

Attempt to accelerate the success of their clients by making their knowledge your property.

DALUVA HOME

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.daluva.com/apartment Thoughtfully appointed and decorated, Daluva Home features a cosy bedroom for true rest, plus open living, dining, and work areas. Extras include two LCD TVs, iPod dock, and outdoor patio.

Housekeeping, and daily breakfast from the Daluva Breakfast Menu are also included. Private car and tour booking service available.

HANOI HOUSE HUNTER

Quang Trung Building, Room 203, 39 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0983 336336 www.hanoihousehunter.com This company can assist you in finding an apartment that meets your living and budget requirements. Though they specialise in high-end, high-rise apartments, they do have a range of options. The website contains most listings.

KNIGHT FRANK

40 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem www.knightfrank.com UK real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sale, lease, management, price appraisal, counselling and market research.

MEGALAND

2nd Floor, 43 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5556 Specialising in meeting housing needs of expatriates and overseas Vietnamese, Megaland offers a wide range of serviced apartments, villas and commercial spaces.

SAVILLS VIETNAM

6th floor, Sentinel Place, 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3946 1300 www.savills.com.vn A leading global real estate service provider listed on the London Stock Exchange with over 200 offices worldwide.

Provides consultancy services, property management, space planning, facilities management, corporate real estate services, leasing, valuation and sales to the key segments of commercial, industrial, retail, residential and investment property.

TAN LONG HOUSING

49 Au Co, Tay Ho. Tel: 0913 345152 www.tanlonghousing.com Tan Long has been concentrating on assisting individuals in the process of buying, selling and renting property in Hanoi since 1999. They also have several branch offices, and a useful website that can help to fill residential or commercial needs.

THREE TEMPLES

73B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 3366 www.threetemples.com Three Temples is a full-service, design-led property development and marketing company that specialises in creating residential addresses by providing high quality architecture, residential design, interior design, commercial consultancy, marketing and branding solutions. A onestop-shop to finance, design, brand and build for the finest residential products.

VIETNAM LAND

38 Phan Boi Chau Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0934 416661 Vietnam Land was incorporated in Vietnam in 2002 as a commercial and residential real estate services, real estate property management and real estate development company. Since that time Vietnam Land has successfully developed two residential towers at the Chelsea Park project in Hanoi and a residential land sales project in Hung Yen province called Villa Park.

INSURANCE AIG

Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 1455 www.aig.com Offers a range of insurance products and services including property, casualty and marine exposure insurance. Also has comprehensive travel and accident coverage, as well as healthcare packages for expats residing in Vietnam.

IF Consulting EuroCham, Sofitel Plaza Hotel, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: 3755 7111 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1 800 599 998.

PRUDENTIAL

63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over

70 customer care centers throughout the country.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI

CMC Tower, Duy Tan, Cau Giay Tel: 3795 8878 www.concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. It arrives in Hanoi in August 2011 but is enrolling from pre-school to grade seven now. Located to the west of the city.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai Boulevard, Ba Dinh www.hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI

SG VIETFRANCE

VIT Tower, 18th Floor, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 2220 8979 The Vietnamese subsidiary of France’s Societe Generale, the company recently opened a Hanoi. This was the first financial company in Vietnam to focus entirely on consumer credit.

VIET TIN FINANCIAL CO.

4th Floor, 44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5986 www.viet-tin.com A locally based securities and stock brokerage firm whose stated mission is to provide valued returns to partners and shareholders.

VINACAPITAL

5th Floor, Sun City Building, 13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 4630 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a an investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS

#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6418 www.hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International.

The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

APOLLO

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)

BRITISH COUNCIL

Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org With more than 800 students from 50 different countries, UNIS is a non-profit IB World School that instructs students from as young as three years old through to grade 12. Established in 1988 by agencies representing the United Nations, the pristine campus has a broad range of facilities and is located in the gated community of Ciputra.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

11th Floor, Hanoi Lake View Bldg, 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0203 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

INDOCHINA CAPITAL

Floors 9-9A, 60 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3930 6399 www.indochinacapital.com A leading investment firm operating in the ASEAN region with a particular focus on Vietnam. Assists partners, co-investors and clients to achieve financial objectives while focusing on four core areas: corporate finance and advisory services, investment management and real estate development.

MEKONG CAPITAL

12th Floor, HAREC Building, 4A Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4888 www.mekongcapital.com A private equity firm which focuses on the growth equity of companies in the developing Vietnamese economy.

67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 2051 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers highquality and cost-effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

One of the country’s leading language centres.

to establish representative offices in Vietnam, Baker & McKenzie provide onthe-ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRESHFIELDS BRUCKHAUS DERINGER

#05-01 International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 7422 This law firm works in 19 countries and is one of the world’s largest. They regularly advise large clients on international investment, banking and finance.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

Pacific Place, Suite 505 – 507, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 2350 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 24 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services which combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

J&P LAW LLC

Room 1204B, Floor 12, Tower B, Handi Resco Tower 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh , Tel: 3724 5201 www.jnplaw.com This Korean law firm offers international legal services and has additional branches in Ho Chi Minh City, Beijing and Ulaanbaatar. The Vietnam offices provide high-quality legal services in English, Korean, and Vietnamese across all sectors of business law.

20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 1922 www.britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

LAWYERS ASSOCIATION OF THE CITY OF HANOI

CLEVERLEARN

Building 3, 2C Diplomatic Compound, Van Bao, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1698 www.cleverlearnvietnam.vn With two main schools in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Cleverlearn offers mainly conversational and business English courses. An authorised in iBT test site by the ETS.

Room 317, 3rd Floor, VCCI Building, 9 Dao Duy Anh, Cau Giay Tel: 3577 0479 www.iprights.com Rouse is an international intellectual property law firm. From HCMC and Hanoi we advise on protection and enforcement of trade marks, patents, copyright and domain names; commercial IP, IP management/strategy.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

RUSSIN & VECCHI

62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3733 8402 www.languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON

Suite 401, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 0990 Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE

13th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1428 www.bakernet.com One of the first international law firms

35 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 3835 3548 The Lawyer’s Association is a collective of Vietnamese lawyers speicialising in many fields. They can provide legal and representation services.

ROUSE LEGAL (HANOI BRANCH)

11/F, Hanoi Central Office Bldg., Suite 1104, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3825 1700 A financial law firm which focuses on commercial and investment matters for corporate clients. In some cases they can provide assistance to individual clients.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRITISH UNIVERSITY VIETNAM

193 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 7596 www.britishuniversity.edu.vn The first university offering prestigious UK degrees in Vietnam. Courses offered in 2010 include International Business Administration, Banking & Finance, Accounting & Finance, Marketing Management, Accounting & Business. Pre-university courses are also available.

G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES

HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh Tel: 3762 3805 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign-invested company focusing on management services and consult-

ing with in-house programs to meet the particular requirements of its clients.

Offers teambuilding and academic-based business and management programmes.

RMIT

Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1460 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and longterm courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO

142 Le Duan, Dong Da Tel: 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com www.cimigo.com Independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in Hanoi and the Asia Pacific region in general.

Services include auditing and optimising research programs, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

7th Floor, 73 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4661 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina. Focus is on developing partnerships that leverage their market knowledge and on enhancing their client’s competitive position in the region.

THE NIELSEN COMPANY

3rd floor, 85 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 1161 www.nielsen.com Media company offering integrated marketing and media measurement information and analytics. Offers full service capability across qualitative, quantitative, media and retail measurement for FMCGs, consumer products, finance, telecoms and more.

VINALINK

59 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4206 1773 www.vinalink.com Specialising in online survey-based market research, Vinalink is a subcontractor for a few global market research firms, including CALEB Global and Pulse Group.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MEDIA ONE

Rm 207, 40A Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3247 4028 www.media-one.vn PR company with offices both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Focuses mainly on the Telecom and IT industries, providing a range of services including events, product activation, consulting, marketing and advertising.

TQPR

Room 109, House K, 7, 2ha, Vinh Phuc Ward, Ba Dinh.

Tel: 32474 028 www.tqpr.com One in a group of companies from Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, the company offers international standard consultancy services and value-added results to local, regional and global clients.

VENUS COMMUNICATIONS

4 Da Tuong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7066 Well-known PR and communications company with offices in both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Offers the full range of PR, advertising and consultancy services.

RECRUITMENT & HR AON VIETNAM LIMITED

14th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0832 www.aon.com/vietnam Founded in Vietnam in 1994, among other things, Aon now concentrates on human capital consulting, assisting their clients with compensation, benefit analyses and outsourcing.

HR2B

Suite A6, 3rd Floor, Horison Office Center, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3736 6843 www.hr2b.com The forte of this company is placing highly talented Vietnamese and expat candidates into executive positions at medium to large companies. Rapidly growing, in the past years they’ve added Coca Cola, DHL and Prudential to their client list.

MANPOWER VIETNAM

12th Floor, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 4574 www.manpower.com.vn Established in Vietnam at the beginning of 2008, Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally.

Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

NAVIGOS GROUP

Suite 1401, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 3033 www.navigosgroup.com Adept at solving human resource challenges through excellence in matching and management talent. Has offices in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS

8 Cat Linh, Dong Da. Tel: 6275 2824 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO

Inland Customs Depot Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem. Tel: 3768 5882 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption to family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

CROWN RELOCATION SERVICES

3rd & 4th Floor, 75 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6741 www.crownrelo.com Offering both family and corporate relocation services locally and internationally, Crown prides themselves on being a kidfriendly company.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3826 0334 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and

February 2012 The Word | 69

local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

3A, Alley 49, Huynh Thuc, Dong Da Tel: 3773 7191 www.residentvietnam.com Established in 2000, Resident Vietnam was the first dedicated Expatriate Service Provider in Vietnam. Resident Vietnam provides full relocation and immigration management services to several multinational companies in Vietnam and ser vices the Global Mobility industry.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Union Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0908 096222 sales@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. We are proud to be the only moving company with both ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES

49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0912 239085 www.atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’.

Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

DALUVA HOME

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 Whether traveling or on a temporary stay, Daluva can provide space & comfort.

Thoughtfully appointed Daluva Homes feature a cozy bedroom for true rest, and an open living area that opens up to a terrace with plants.

FRASER SUITES

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 8877 http://hanoi.frasershospitality.com Great location in Syrena Tower on West Lake, Fraser Suites offer a tranquil repose from the busy city. Has several apartments with excellent views and provides gold-standard service.

MAYFAIR

34B Tran Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0030 www.mayfair-hanoi.com A building with a great location, and some of the largest apartments you’ll find. The Mayfair is popular among the diplomatic and international business communities.

SEDONA SUITES

No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0888 www.sedonahotels.com.sg 175 well-designed, furnished apartments and villas combining the comforts of home with the conveniences of a fine hotel.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 2342 www.somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24-hour reception and central location.

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LISTINGS

DALAT 070 DANANG 070 HALONG & CAT BA 070 HAI PHONG 070 HANOI - INTERNATIONAL 071 HANOI - MID - RANGE 071 HANOI - BUDGET 071 HO CHI MINH CITY 073 HOI AN & DANANG 073 HUE 073 MAI CHAU & HOA BINH 073 NAM DINH & NINH BINH 074

DALAT BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA $$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and modern amenities, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa, and prices to match.

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DREAMS HOTEL

$ 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private place has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from $10 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat , Tel: 063 382 2663 You get door-to-door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic hotel, but it’s right in the middle of town.

DANANG DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Coastal Street Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son, Tel: 0511 396 1800 With six different styles of villa units that offer views of the ocean, the mountains and a green of a golf course, the Danang Beach Resort is one of the most luxurious places to stay in this much overlooked city. The property also offers 33-storey twin towers housing a five-star hotel and golf courses adding up to 36 holes.

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HALONG & CAT BA BAI TU LONG ECOTOURISM RESORT

$ Halong Commune, Van Don , Tel: 0333 793156 Stay in a beachside bungalow or a traditional resort-style hotel on the shores of Van Don Island. Bai Tu Long Bay is situated just up the coast from Halong City.

The staff here can help you arrange tours that will offer scenery a bit different than the standard tours of Halong Bay.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

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OCEAN BEACH RESORT

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings NHA TRANG 074 NORTH-EAST 074 NORTH-WEST 075 PHAN THIET / MUI NE 075 PHU QUOC 075 SAPA 075 TAM DAO 076 TRAVEL SERVICES 076

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$$$ www.oceanbeachresort.com.vn This resort is on a private island just off of Cat Ba Island. Around VND600,000 will get you a comfortable room in a bungalow close to the beach. Fee also includes the boat ride from Cat Ba. For more information check on the web.

PEACE HOTEL

$ 39 Vuon Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846009 Found just outside Halong City on Bai Chay beach, this is clean, honest accommodation for a reasonable price. Located on “Hotel Alley”, there are a lot of options here. The rooms are fairly well looked after and clean. You can usually get one for under VND400,000, but prices vary depending on the season.

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EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES

$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude-cruises.com This reproduction of a 19th-century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in impeccably maintained cabins. The great food and service adds to the already beautiful setting. They also offer transfers directly from Hanoi.

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HAI LONG JUNKS, HALONG BAY

$$$$ 66 Pho Ha Long, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 848999. www.royalhalong.com The four-star Royal Hotel boasts villas, well-landscaped gardens and a pool, all overlooking Halong Bay. Just two minutes walk from Bai Chay, the property has a resort feel and the rooms are housed in several buildings. If you’re feeling lucky, there’s also a ‘Gaming Club’.

HAI PHONG BACH DANG HOTEL

HARBOUR VIEW HOTEL

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$$$ 10 Halong Road, Halong , Tel: 0333 849 009 www.halongdreamhotel.com Close to the pier and the new bridge, what this hotel lacks in character is made up for in cleanliness and comfort. There are 184 rooms priced between VND2 million and VND6 million. Other facilities include indoor pool, health club and sauna.

$$$ 4 Tran Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 382 7827 www.harbourviewvietnam.com Hai Phong’s most prestigious address, this cool, retro French-colonial style property is the only international standard hotel in town. Designed with panache without being pretentious, room rates at this 122-unit property start at around VND2.5 million.

HALONG PLAZA

HUU NGHI HOTEL

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh. Tel: 0333 848108 www.novotelhalongbay.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including a pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

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DAEWOO HOTEL

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FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

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HALONG DREAM HOTEL

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$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: 6270 6688. www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property. This 24-storey mixed-use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

ROYAL HOTEL

$$ 42 Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 384 2444 bachdanghotelhp@hn.vnn.vn One of the best of the town’s best budget hotels, the aircon old but clean rooms come in all shapes and sizes and have satellite TV, a fridge and a mini bar. The front-desk staff speaks English and can help sort out any travel arrangements.

Rates from around VND250,000 per night.

$$$ 8 Halong Road, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: 0333 845810, www.halongplaza.com One of the many large tower-type hotels in Halong City, Halong Plaza has pretty much everything you’d expect from a 4-star hotel. 200 rooms, a bar and a restaurant that touts its seafood and barbecue.

CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

$ Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Tel: 0313 888899 This is one of the better hotels on Cat Ba Island. Large, clean rooms with all the modern conveniences, as well as a restaurant and a popular bar. The front desk can also arrange tailor-made tours around the bay.

32 Anh Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846099 Hai Long Junks is one of the three largest cruise operators in Halong Bay. The company boasts 11 overnight cruise vessels with a total of 160 cabins and 15 traditional junks with capacities from 25-48 passengers each for day trippers, providing cruise services for travelers with a mid-range budget.

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HANOI – INTERNATIONAL

$$$ 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range.

Shortly to become a Marriot property.

PRINCES HOTEL

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three-night tours are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

petitive and it’s possible to request a room with a kitchen. Standards with aircon and a TV start at VND350,000 per night.

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$$$ 60A Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 384 2706, www.huunghihotel.vn One of the larger hotels in town, Huu Nghi offers some of the comforts you might miss at the other places. In addition to the clean up-to-standard rooms, the hotel also has a swimming pool and tennis courts.

MAXIM HOTEL

$$ 3K Ly Tu Trong, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 374 6540 New and tidy, with cable TV and airconditioning, Maxim is one of the best mini hotels in town. Rooms are small but have good modern conveniences like satellite TV and new, clean bathrooms done in designer tiles. Room rates around VND250,000 to VND300,000 a night.

MONACO HOTEL

103 Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 374 6468 One of the more modern hotels on Dien Bien Phu Street, the prices here are com-

$$$ 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Dist, Tel: 3831 3333 fortunahanoi@fortuna.com.vn fortunahotels.com This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

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FRASER SUITES

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 8877 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com A good alternative to staying at a five-star hotel while you’re in the capital, Fraser Suites offers short-term stays for as little as VND2.5 million a night when they’re having a promotion. In the West Lake area, you can expect the gold-standard service with a quiet atmosphere and excellent views.

are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE $$$$ 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental.com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

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MARIGOLD HOTEL

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$$$ 17A Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com A contemporary boutique hotel a stone’s throw from Hang Cot in the Old Quarter.

Colonial era accents throughout and an oriental themes lobby. 32 upmarket rooms and an intimate top class restaurant make this a strong contender in an area with plenty of competition.

MELIA HANOI

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$$$$ 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343, www.meliahanoi.com This landmark property has become one of Hanoi’s most popular five-star hotels.

Centrally located, with luxurious accommodation, the Melia also has a host of fine dining areas, a swimming pool, a health club and an in-house bar-cumnightclub, Latino. A popular venue for functions, exhibitions and events.

MERCURE HANOI LA GARE

$$$ 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7766 When your train arrives from Sapa at 5am, you will be overjoyed if your bed is just across the street from the station in one of the 102 spacious rooms at this smart hotel. A stone’s throw from both the Old Quarter and the Temple of Literature, Mercure Hanoi boasts a French brasserie, an internal courtyard, a fitness centre and a retail outlet of wine importer and distributor Da Loc. CREDIT

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this fivestar is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top-end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area.

$$$$ 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi.com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers.

An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

HORISON HOTEL

SHERATON

HANOI HILTON

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$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0808 This 250-room hotel no longer boasts the sparkle of a few years ago, but nonetheless has good quality rooms with all the mod-cons and a cavernous lobby. Decent but slightly old gym area and a good outdoor pool.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA

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$$$$ 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and

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$$$$ K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000, www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI $$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3826 6919 ww.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial peCREDIT

riod is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

$$$$ 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

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HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN

16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GIABAO HANOI & GIABAO GRAND

$$$ 38 & 23 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2222 Two mid-range hotels situated in the heart of Hanoi,just 150 meters from Hoan Kiem Lake. Built using a blend of western and oriental architecture, the properties have 28 and 35 rooms respectively, all with mod-cons. For a bit more luxury stay at the Giabao Grand.

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GOLDEN LOTUS HOTEL

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$$ 32 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8583 www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn The interesting arty decor of this place is a bonus, as is its value for money – it’s not often you pay under VND1 million for a modern hotel room slap bang in the middle of town. Try to get a front room (with balcony) to look out over the bustling Old Quarter. They’ve also opened a second Golden Lotus just down the street at number 39.

HANOI SPRING HOTEL II

MAY DE VILLE

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$$$ 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

THANG LONG OPERA HOTEL

$$$ 1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 4775 www.thanglongopera.com This hotel houses 71 spacious, comfortable rooms all equipped with high speed internet, bath tub and room service. They have a meeting room, which can accommodate up to 60 people, as well as a restaurant and bar downstairs.

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ZEPHYR

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$$$ 4 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1256 www.zephyrhotel.com.vn A mid-size boutique hotel with a prime location, Zephyr offers a range of packages and special offers on rooms that are clean and stylish. The lobby boasts a coffee house and restaurant with both Asian and Western Cuisine.

HANOI – BUDGET CAMELLIA HOTEL

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$$ 44 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 3667 www.camellia-hotels.com Basic rooms and friendly service at this well-known hotel. One of six properties of the same name in Hanoi, internet terminals are located in the lobby, and the property also offers a host of tour itineraries. Rooms vary in price from VND500,000 to VND700,000. Some of their other locations are more budget-friendly.

HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL

$ 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style

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$$ 38 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 8500 www.hanoispringhotel.com One of the only hotels in the Old Quarter to have a balcony with each room, this new boutique is middle of the range but feels higher. Run by Australian expats and partners with a wealth of experience in the hotel industry, expect great service.

Awesome western breakfasts and Vietnamese lunch and dinners. The top floor honeymoon suite has perfect views of St Josephs Cathedral.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

four luxurious suites. All rooms have wi-fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.5 million for a guest room to VND4.5 million for a suite.

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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com www.josephshotel.com Just to the side of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a well-appointed, comfortable boutique hotel. Brightly decorated, the property’s 10 rooms have Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV and a mini bar. Prices start at VND650,000 a night. No smoking except for on the upstairs balconies.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake, this boutique hotel is fitted with 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

$$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM

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SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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DESTINATION PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

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hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

$$$ 34 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5053 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact, with small but clean bathrooms, and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel.

Either ADSL or Wi-Fi connections available.

Some of the locations include sauna, steam bath and fitness facilities

LITTLE HANOI HOTEL

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$ 58 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem ,Tel: 3928 8648 www.littlehanoihotel.com Spacious rooms with ADSL broadband connections starting at around VND600,000 a night. The rooms at the front are more expensive, and breakfast is included. The staff speak good English and are very helpful. Has a number of sister hotels in town, two of which are located next to the cathedral. The third is on Tue Tinh, close to Lenin Park. Check the website for details.

HO CHI MINH CIT Y CARAVELLE HOTEL

NYE - SAIGON STYLE There were pilots everywhere. I had a dart in one hand, and a glass of whiskey in the other, says Roz Plotzker

F

or some people, New Year’s Eve is an excuse for debauchery. For others, who drag their feet into the future, it’s a dreaded reminder that time is passing. For the optimists, it’s a hopeful night of resolutions. If these are just a few possible meanings of New Year’s Eve for an individual, imagine the significance December 31 has for an entire city.

For Saigon, New Year’s Eve is a coming of age party. The city is another year older, maybe more mature, or even wiser. The streets and buildings are as dressed up as the crowds who inhabit them — a sensory overload of lights and noise. What better time to meet a place, than the night it is illuminated in every sense of the word?

This was the way Saigon introduced himself to us. Our group picked it as the pseudo-midpoint between our homes in New York, Hanoi, Bandung and Shanghai.

To welcome 2012, we planned to join the throngs of Vietnamese and fellow foreigners in Saigonese chaos.

It started at noon. The tourist attractions were no different than any other day.

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Only a surplus of brides and grooms and wedding photographers suggested it might be a special time of year. We drifted from site to site, wondering if the normalcy of the day was any indication of what the night had in store. Perhaps this was one of Saigon’s tricks: to take us by surprise...

It was 5.30 p.m. Happy Hour. We were in an elevator. It climbed twenty-three floors of the Sheraton Hotel, to a macroscopic, westward view of the city. We watched the sun set on 2011. As the sky darkened, the nocturnal Saigon lights woke up below us. Within minutes the cityscape was twinkling. Sounds of car horns and a concert wafted up to us from District One...

It was 7.30 p.m. We left the hotel. The crowds were still mostly sober, everyone rushing to dinner. Motorbikes saturated the streets. We chained our hands together and weaved through the webs of bikes and pedestrians. We followed a friend towards an Indian restaurant. He was a pilot, so we trusted his sense of direction. As for crossing the streets — like usual, the best

approach was ‘Don’t Hesitate’. Penetrate the traffic, a few turns, and then dinner, followed by a bar and more pilots. I lost at darts, then I won at darts, then I lost at darts...

It was 11.30 p.m. Back out into traffic. The crowds were denser. Less sober. Happier.

Our chain of hands — now longer, but somehow more secure — snaked once again through District One. Finally, we arrived at the nucleus: Saigon’s Time Square...

It was 11.59 p.m. The countdown began.

Then, within seconds, like a Cinderella story, midnight brought a sudden transformation. People kissed. Fireworks exploded. The birth of 2012 had happened, and with it the rebirth of its witnesses.

There was a collective sense of joy, not only at the glamour of the city, and it’s glowing rite of passage. Perhaps it was a moment when we realised we were all coming of age, growing, and sinking a little more comfortably into our own skin. In short: it was a new year.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$ 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Luxury accommodation with a stylish club Lounge boasting panoramic views, as well as the finest meeting and banquet facilities in town – all designed with the savvy traveller in mind. The 21-floor tower includes 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a Presidential Suite.

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LAN LAN HOTEL 2

NEW WORLD

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid-range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 , Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth-floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1. Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous-looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation and the Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

CONTINENTAL

RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental-saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the best of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

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$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi-Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well-appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street-level mayhem of the backpacker area.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Big and businesslike, with seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.

Also boasts the biggest banquet facilities in the city.

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3. Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A 4-star business class hotel, The Ramana Hotel boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a Business Centre, a well-equipped Fitness Room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club, The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2 km from the city centre and 3 km from the airport.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE

$$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus one of the best-regarded Chinese restaurants in the city.

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SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first-class facilities topped by an open-air restaurant 23 floors above the city. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com True class on an attractive (and historic) street, offering a mix of rooms and suites, CREDIT

top-notch facilities, and restaurant cuisine which can match anything in the city.

Without a doubt one of the nicest places to stay in the city.

HOI AN & DANANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family-run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air-conditioned rooms and pleasant staff.

FURAMA RESORT & SPA

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

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HUY HOANG 1

$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town.

Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life-resorts.com Recently refurbished after a recent flood, this award-winning resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000. www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, the Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre-programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CUA DAI BEACH CREDIT

Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Pull up some (private) beach and relax, at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

HUE ANA MANDARA HUE

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$$$$ Thuan An Town, Phu Vang District, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam. Tel: 08 6291 3030 sales1@anamandarahue-resort.com www.hotelcollectionindochine.com Located on Thuan An Beach, a 20-minute drive from central Hue, the five-star Ana Mandara is the only beach resort with pool villas in the area. The property has a total of 78 rooms and villas, including beach pool villas, beach villas, duplex

rooms and deluxe rooms in a wide range of styles and decor designed with modern facilities. Offers private rice paddy dinners, beach BBQs and cruises through the local fish farms.

GUESTHOUSE VAN XUAN

$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue , Tel: 054 382 6561 An excellent option for those on a tight budget, with a comfortable room plus balcony and satellite TV coming in at around VND200,000. An additional bonus is the pleasantness of the staff.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high-rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million ++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue. Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la-residence-hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark-stained wood furnishings, this is traditional Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

$$$ Tel: 0510 354 5105. www.domainedetamhai.com If you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional-looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer.

There is endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

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PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue. Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub-VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

PILGRIMAGE VILLAGE - BOUTIQUE RESORT & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ 130 Minh Mang, Hue. Tel: 054 388 5461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com A collection of rustic villas located in the countryside close to Hue and its historical landmarks. Villas range from the traditional Vietnamese pool house to the family bungalow. The boutique, imperial-era Vietnam styled resort also holds cooking classes, makes tour arrangements and has an on-site spa.

SUN SPA RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999. www.sunsparesortvietnam.com This top-end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh, about 150 miles from Hue. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

MAI CHAU & HOA BINH COMMUNAL GUEST HOUSE 1

$$$ Poom Village, Mai Chau, Tel: 0912 320990 One of the larger stilt houses in Poom Village, the bamboo floor you can expect to sleep on is more comfortable than you might expect, and this house has a pleas-

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AIRLINES

ant view of a lotus pond. Like at all the other stilt houses here, drink and dance can be arranged.

AIR ASIA

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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First Floor, 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3484 www.airfrance.com.vn

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam-aventure.com This eco-village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in ten houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

AIR MEKONG

MAI CHAU GUESTHOUSE

25 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 5351 www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 37186 399 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 99 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC G/F, Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7298 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

CHINA AIRLINES 4th Floor, Opera Business Center, 6B Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6364 www.china-airlines.com

EVA AIR 2nd Floor,17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 1600 www.evaair.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 5th Floor, 63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6693 www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR 2nd Floor, VIT, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 7247 www.koreanair.com

At the farthest end of town, Mai Chau Tel: 0218 386 7262 This hotel seems to offer bare-bones amenities, but if you don’t fancy sleeping on the rattan floor of a stilt house, this is a couple good steps above, and the rooms are quite inexpensive. Be prepared for the noise from the karaoke bars which surround the place.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com If real comfort is what you want, this is surely the best bet in Mai Chau. The rooms are modern and classy, with room service, sauna and internet connections.

The newly built Water Lily Cottage offers a luxury version of the house on stilts.

Give a call for exact directions, or you can check their website.

MAI CHAU NATURE PLACE

House 38, Ban Lac Village, Tel: 3938 1443 www.maichaunatureplace.com A perfect mix between a home-stay experience and comfortable hotel. The private rooms are beautifully quaint while the communal sleeping option is more typical of rural lodges. Both options come with modern and clean bathrooms, traditional home-cooked meals, free bicycles and friendly, in-the-know, staff.

BIKE RENTALS

40 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 5362 www.laoairlines.com

Somerset Grand Hanoi, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 8820 www.malaysiaairlines.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 8888 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7921 www.thaiair.com

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 www.vietnamairlines.com

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NAM DINH & NINH BINH CUC PHUONG GUEST HOUSE

$$$$ 396 Quoc Lo 14, Dong Xoai, Binh Phuoc Tel: 0651 387 9764 Accommodation here is quite basic, but this place offers a good deal in relation to the other places around, if you want a place to sleep before a long day of park touring.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Park accommodation, in modern rooms, stilt houses and detached bungalows, includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night.

Rooms available at park hq, the park centre, and on the road linking the two.

THANH THUY GUEST HOUSE

$ 128 Le Hong Phong, Ninh Binh. Tel: 030 387 1811 Refurbished in 2004, this has big, clean rooms that are great value for the money.

There is an in-house restaurant that will make it redundant to eat elsewhere. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND400,000 for a double deluxe room. The staff speak very good English.

THUY ANH HOTEL

$$ 55A Truong Han Sieu, Ninh Binh. Tel: 030 387 1602 This hotel is slightly more expensive than its neighbors, but the reason is apparent once you walk in. The rooms in the newer building are especially nice and, together with the better than decent restaurant downstairs, this one can make for a good stop over.

EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

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MALAYSIA AIRLINES

$$$$ House 100, Quarter 2, Mai Chau. Tel: 0218 386 7340 If a sturdy bed is what you crave, this might be your answer. The rooms are large and clean, with a working television and shower with hot water. Might not be the Hilton, but for an aching back it’s a step above a bamboo floor and a mat.

NHA TRANG

LAO AIRLINES

R402, 4th floor, Dao Duy Anh Tower, 9 Dao Duy Anh, Dong Da Tel: 3577 2202 www.lot.com

NGOC BACH

MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL 106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 094464

QUAN’S MOTORBIKE & BICYCLE RENTALS 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941 Standard rental shop doing hire by the day and by the month.

VIETNAM MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES 36 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (down alley in between No. 34 & No. 36) Tel: 3904 5049 Bespoke motorbike tours, rental of automatic and manual bikes plus repairs.

VIP BIKE RENTALS 64, Alley 71 Tan Ap, Tay Ho (off Tan Ap Street, close to Sofitel Plaza) Tel: 0914 931390 Bike rentals and repairs. Good reputation.

Formerly part of the Blue Dragon Foundation.

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang. Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandaranhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa-style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang). Tel: 058 362 2384 On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism.

The owners arrange pick-up from Nha Trang and the down-to-earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa. Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-HideawayNinh-Van-Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a

bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top-drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at VND15 million++ for a beach pool villa.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang. Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com This stylish four-star hotel is centrally located on the main street of the resort city of Nha Trang. Along with 154 modern rooms, each with terrace and a stunning sea view, Novotel Nha Trang offers a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room catering for up to 200 delegates.

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THANH LOAN HOTEL

$ V159 Vuon Cam, Cao Bang. Tel: 026 385 7026 Thanh Loan is a smaller hotel with more attention paid to the details. Still, expect basic accommodation, but, all said, a good bargain.

THAI NGUYEN HOTEL

2 Hoang Van Thu, Thai Nguyen. Tel: 0280 385 2803 Your standard two-star establishment, Thai Nguyen is one of the best (and one of the only) choices in the vicinity. It’s quite a large hotel considering its location, so booking shouldn’t be a problem.

NORTH-WEST HUYEN TRAN GUEST HOUSE

SAO MAI HOTEL

SON LA TRADE UNION HOTEL

$$ 4 Duong, 26-8 Rd, Son La. Tel: 022 385 5313 The explanation of the name is a mystery, but with 100 rooms it could probably house a mid-size union. Not the cheapest place in town, but the rooms are extra large and fairly well-kept. If you want to spend some time with satellite television, this is your place. Price range is VND500,000 to VND600,000, breakfast included.

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SUNRISE HOTEL

$ 53 Duong 26 – 8, Son La. Tel: 022 385 8798 Sunrise makes for a decent stay for those travelling between Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu. In relation to the other hotels on the road, the rooms are very clean and the staff helpful. A night here will run around VND400,000.

99 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 7412 Try to get a seaview room with private balcony at this friendly and very cheap hotel, which also has a rooftop terrace.

Rooms have basic but adequate facilities and it is well located.

$$$ 2 Hoang Van Thu, Lai Chau. Tel: 0231 387 5829 Offers reasonable guesthouse-style rooms with air conditioning, some of them with balconies. Take a look at the rooms before you rent as the quality may vary.

SUNRISE BEACH RESORT

$$ 849 Duong 7-5, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 382 5103 Pretty much what it sounds like: a Dien Bien Phu guest house. Rooms are made for sleeping and not much else, but at good prices. Cleanliness and comfort are acceptable and about average for this type of establishment.

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322. www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim-up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground.

Another new addition is an Irish bar. One of the better appointed resorts in the area.

MUONG THANH HOTEL

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

$$$ 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang. Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Luxury boutique hotel in the city centre and right across from the beach is well geared up for the family and business trade, with kids’ room, beach recreation, restaurants offering Japanese, Vietnamese and European cuisine, pool bar, beach bar, sky bar and a Qi spa.

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WHALE ISLAND RESORT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501. www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. Onsite seafood restaurant and bar.

KHACH SAN DIEN BIEN PHU

BLUE OCEAN RESORT

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$$ 25 Pho 1, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 381 0043 This Soviet-era hotel has a unique style that makes it one of the most visited. So, despite its size, it may be a good idea to book in advance. There’s a charge for the swimming pool, even if you’re staying there. But, hey, there’s a pool. The rooms are better than average and have satellite TV. CREDIT

PHAN THIET / MUI NE

$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com The first all-villa luxury boutique resort in Vietnam, the Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh Ciry and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and a 24-hour butler service, this is one of CREDIT

the most luxurious resorts in the country.

Definitely one of the most exclusive.

SHADES APARTMENTS

$$$ Tel: 062 743 237. www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach, with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and dining options.

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THE SAILING CLUB

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7440 Much more than its name suggests, with beautiful landscaped tropical gardens leading onto a stretch of pristine beach and an outdoor bar, well-positioned to make the best of the scenery. Has a mix of comfortable rooms and bungalows, and has recently done some refurbishment.

Offers quad-biking, kitesurfing, paragliding and, of course, sailing.

PHU QUOC CHEN LA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla-resort.com Open since Nov. 2008, this 37-bungalow resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first-class spa treatment and a mediterranean-themed restaurant.

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LA VERANDA

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$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773 982888 / 3823 7645 (Sales office) www.laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, La Veranda has

beautifully-designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all-natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc. Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco-friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around. Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up excellent food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow-style resort, which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid-back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA AUBERGE HOTEL

$ 7 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1243 Despite being in the centre of town, some of the back rooms offer nice views. There is also a good French-style restaurant downstairs, which is what you might expect considering the décor and name.

Prices vary, but a room should generally cost around VND400,000.

BAMBOO HOTEL

$$ 18 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1075 One of the best things about the Bamboo

NORTH-EAST BANG GIANG HOTEL

$ 1 Kim Dong, Cao Bang. Tel: 026 385 3431 A large, government-run hotel popular with tour groups. Rooms are super-sized, with big windows and some even have views. They also take credit cards, which might not be expected here. Room rates are around VND400,000.

HOANG NGUYEN HOTEL

$ 84 Pho Tran Dang Ninh, Lang Son Tel: 025 387 0349 This place offers basic accommodation at a good price. Don’t expect too much, but as an en route stop-over, Hoang Nguyen will definitely do.

HOANG SON HAI

57D Thanh Tam, Lang Son. Tel: 025 371 0479 Although it may be a bit hard to communicate with the staff if you’re Vietnamese isn’t up to snuff, they are eager to help. The rooms are exceptionally nice for the area.

HUY HOAN HOTEL

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$ 14 Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang. Tel: 0219 386 1288 The large, comfortable sleeping quarters here may come as a surprise in these parts. But these are the things that have made Huy Hoan so popular. Several tour groups use the place as a stopover, and the staff is adept at fulfilling their needs.

SAO MAI HOTEL

$ Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang. Tel: 0219 386 3019 One of the first guesthouses you see as you arrive in town, location has made this guesthouse a popular stop off point.

The sleeping accommodations are clean and comfortable, enough to enjoy a good night’s sleep and shower.

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Hotel is the view, so make sure you check out the room first – some are better than others. There is aircon if needed, but you might want to ask for extra blankets in winter, in spite of electric heaters. Rooms here are between VND700,000 and VND1 million a night. The premium here is on the views.

CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE

$$ Cat Cat Road. Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

HMONG MOUNTAIN RETREAT

$ Km 6 Sapa, Ban Ho Road Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: 020 3872 130 www.hmongmountainretreat.com A large stilt house, five clay-clad bungalows and one 70-year-old Hmong House is what waits for you amid the rolling hills of Lao Cai, 6km outside of Sapa. The ecoresort’s team are all local and will help you enjoy the surroundings of the Muong Hoa Valley.

SAPA ROOMS

$$ 18 Phang Xi Pan, Sapa. Tel: 020 6505 228 www.saparooms.com Located in the heart of Sapa town this simple but comfortable boutique hotel occupies an unprecedented corner location overlooking the terraced valleys of Sapa and not far from the energy of the local market. Rooms are decorated with antique hardwood furniture and contemporary artwork from local artists with touches of ethnic minority culture.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas-eco-lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco-cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

VICTORIA SAPA

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from $135 to $250 per night).

The many amenities include satellite TV, in-room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool.

The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

TAM DAO GREEN WORLD HOTEL

$ Khu Nhi Mat, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4315 A big new hotel, Green World has 100 rooms ranging in price from VND400,000 to VND600,000 a night. Because of its height, the top rooms have nice views of the town and surroundings. There is a restaurant and bar with billiards, and internet in the lobby.

HANG KHONG HOTEL

$ Khu 1 Thi, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4208 Another one of the newer hotels in Tam Dao, Hang Khong caters mainly to Vietnamese tourists. But the price is right, hovering around VND500,000. Many of the rooms have balconies, but all have comfortable beds and hot showers.

HUONG LIEN HOTEL

$ Khu I Thi, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4282 Just your basic hotel, but if what you want is a bed and satellite television, this is your place. Can’t beat the price at around VND200,000. Beware, though, prices are subject to change.

MELA HOTEL

$$ Thi Tran, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4321 Probably the prime place to stay in Tam Dao, the Mela has a swimming pool that might come in handy if you’re in the mountains to escape the heat of Hanoi summer. Rooms are comfortable and clean, with two double beds and balcony.

The staff can assist if you want to explore the natural surroundings. Prices between VND800,000 and VND1.6 million.

TRAVEL SERVICES AIR MEKONG

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 37186 399 www.airmekong.com.vn With presence in eight different cities including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Con Dao, Phu Quoc and Pleiku, Air Mekong is the ideal way to see more of Vietnam.

It offers 30 daily flights and is a realistic alternative to the time-consuming train and bus combo.

ASIA WINGS TRAVEL COMPANY

Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 9343 0888 Founded in 1998, the travel company caters to both corporate and international travel.

Services include ticketing, hotel reservation, travel insurance, transfer and visa arrangement. Outbound tours and packages throughout the world are also available.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi Tel: (84-4) 3 828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com

www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the time-consuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXOTISSIMO

26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 2150 9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 5555 Golden Westlake, 151 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 2735. www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

FREEWHEELIN TOURS

2nd floor, 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2743. www.freewheelin-tours.com Responsible travel tourism company offering intimate, bespoke tours that give customers a more “authentic” taste of Vietnam. Motorbike journeys, homestays, visits to ethnic minority villages, national parks, waterfalls and spectacular scenery are all part of the mix, with part of the proceeds going to a number of responsible tourism initiatives.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL

80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

HG TRAVEL

47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa - www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

INDOCHINA LAND

61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small

knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam's people, cuisine, history and culture.

JEWEL OF THE DELTA

Tel: 01282 471716. booking@jewelofthedelta.com A cruise boat on the Red River offering cocktail and party cruises every week with free snacks, a free cocktail and free shisha in one of the VIP rooms. Private cruises are available for parties, meetings, receptions, and dinners for groups or organisations. A unique place to chill out.

LOT AIRLINES

R402, 4th floor, Dao Duy Anh Tower, 9 Dao Duy Anh, Dong Da. Tel: 3577 2202 www.lot.com LOT serves Poland and back three times a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. The flight arrives in Warsaw in the early morning, and because of the city’s location in the middle of Europe, it’s an ideal airport for transit to and from other European hubs.

LUXURY TRAVEL CO., LTD

5 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 4120 www.LuxuryTravelVietnam.com Vietnam’s First Luxury Tour Company, offers you carefree luxury travel so you and your family can focus on the fun, not the details. Challenge your skills at the country’s most spectacular golf courses.

Soak up the sun while being soothed by the sound of breaking surf. Hunt for high-fashion couture in the most elegant cities of Vietnam. Envision any vacation experience you want; name it, we deliver

SYRENA CRUISES

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action.

All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

hanoi.com 76 | The Word February 2012

OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 077 CAFES 078 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 079 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 079 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 079 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 081

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

ceiling and shisha. Throw in a dartboard, “sell and swap” book shelves, Jenga and some tasty toasted sandwiches, and it can be hours of fun. The dried buffalo “nosh” from Tay Bac in the north is a must.

HANOI ROCK CITY

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 01887 487 426 www.hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 81 RESTAURANTS - SOUTHEAST ASIAN 081 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 082 RESTOBARS 083

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

happy hour, this Old Quarter old-timer is still up there with the options. Between 11pm and 12.30am, local beers go for VND15,000 and mixers go for VND30,000. Friendly staff and talkative patrons included.

CHEEKY QUARTER

HO GUOM XANH CLUB

MUSIC HALL/LONG BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 6822 5pm to 12am Cowgirls, lasers, belly dancing and Filipino bands who never shy away from a good Guns N' Roses cover. Drinks are a little pricey, but part of the money is going to the show. Expect a lively atmosphere and the band will take requests, but 1980s rock tunes are favoured.

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 032829 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic.

Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late.

Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

AMAZON BAR

DRAGONFLY

HOUSE OF SON TINH

17 COWBOYS

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TOURIST BAR/CLUB 32 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem This newcomer to Ta Hien’s Bia Hoi Junction is an Aztec-themed three story drinking hole and dance space. Balcony on the second floor, which provides a great view over the beer drinkers below, and dance space on the third floor. CDJs and a promise of dubstep and drink specials on the board outside are bound to go down well among the area’s party massive.

BAMBOO BAR

CLASSIC FRENCH Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 7am to 10pm Set up like a traditional colonial-era bar space with dark wooden plank flooring, bamboo roofing, wicker chairs and handheld fan crafted ceiling fans, both during the day and at night there is a relaxed, timeless ambience here. The drinks focus here is on Martini-based and classic cocktails with a huge wine list and aged spirits also making an appearance. Also a great place for a morning or afternoon coffee.

BAR BETTA

RETRO CAFÉ BAR 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 9134 haimtc@gmail.com 8am to midnight This bar is every bit as quirky as the Czech moped it’s named after. Inside every surface is festooned with a medley of objects ranging from gramaphones to retro TVs. The rooftop terrace is an awesome place for a sundowner or a morning coffee.

Eclectic and like nothing else in Hanoi.

CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung Thursday to Saturday 7pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

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DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem 93 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 4926 2177 11am - late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

EZ RIDER

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POOL HALL / LIVE MUSIC / CLUB 55 Ma May, Hoan Kiem 8am to midnight A potential gem in the heart of the Old Quarter. While it’s themed to the Easy Rider vibe out front, this huge two-storey venue is a jack of all trades – it has a bar, live music stage, pool tables, hookahs, a VIP room and a night club with a decent sound set up. Ideal for private functions and party promoters. Club stays open till late.

FUNKY BUDDHA

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ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Owned by the people behind Face Club, the low, LED-lit venue has the feel of a VIP room situated in a larger club, only it's not. While techno and trance are the genre's of choice spun in the establishment by live DJs, patrons treat the space more like a lounge than a dancehall and typically order bottle service and cocktails.

One of the Ta Hien mainstays.

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

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LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1943 3pm to late Often a bit dark and somewhat gloomy, “The Noodle” is still a hit with long term residents. With its all-hour eating options — ranging from cheese toasties and pizzas to grilled cod and bun cha — and its popular

STAGE AND TABLE CLUB 32 Le Thai To Tel: 3828 8806 8pm to 11.45pm Just a few yards from the banks of Hoan Kiem Lake, this giant pantheon of a nightclub seems more at home in Bangkok than in the capital. With DJs, go-go dancers and an ear splitting sound system, Ho Guom Xanh is a great place to ‘dance’ around a table, if you’re willing, while enjoying expensive top shelf bottle service in the heart of the city.

LIQUOR LOUNGE 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6377 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class.

Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

IRISH WOLFHOUND

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IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 2212 6821 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA FÉE VERTE

FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 lafeeverte@hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am Meaning the green fairy — an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe which was drunk extensively in colonial Vietnam — understated lighting, a laid-back lounge atmosphere, a good music selection and ultra-contemporary interior design make up the mix at this downstairs bar in Hotel de l’Opera. Expect a good selection of creative cocktails and an extensive wine list.

Opens late with a DJ taking to the decks on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

LONG PLAY CAFÉ

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 9B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0914 339439 lpcafe@yahoo.com.vn 9am to late This quirky bar and living room gets busiest in the later hours. Down in the bar, plasma screens and an iPod station mix with a dance floor and comically named cocktails. Upstairs, there’s a cushioned living room — a pleasant space with a low

LOUNGE AND BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 3104 5am to 2am One of the few staple bars in the city that hosts an equal number of ex-pats, locals and tourists. With cheap drinks, funky, slightly ethnic decor and one of the most amiable owners in town, Mao's is always a great place to start off or finish the night. Sing-a-longs and dancing welcome at one of the most popular drinking spots on Ta Hien.

MAY PUB

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LAID-BACK FIX 2 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0917 897630 A curving neon sign marks the small entrance to May Pub, which stands on the corner of Nam Ngu and Phan Boi Chau.

The pub hosts a laid-back bar atmosphere with old Hollywood photographs, free billiards and darts and low-key live music.

The menu combines traditional cocktails with offerings like Russian string cheese — a late-night brew and dairy fix. Wednesday and Friday nights are Buy One Get One Free for ladies.

MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Lasers, pulsating trance, bottle service and nightly model shows. This venue is largely filled with flashy Vietnamese youngsters or older business types flashing their wads. Bottle service is a must, which is a little pricey, so if you ain't got enough money then you probably won't be sticking around to see the honeys.

PHUC TAN

ELECTRO GRUNGE CLUB 51 / 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem 6pm to late Hanoi's favourite after hours dancehall/ trance den. Throw shapes on either of the two floors that have regular DJs while dancing to rapacious electronic beats or enjoy the Red River's breeze and snack on a kebab as you catch up with all of the city's regular night owls. The terrace out back has great views of Long Bien Bridge at night.

PILSNER URQUELL

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EUROPEAN BREW HALL 10 Nguyen Bieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 2288 Modeled after a brewery, bar and bowling alley in the Czech Republic, Pilsner Urquell

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

February 2012 The Word | 77

has an old Europe feel — particularly in the private rooms lined with glass beer mugs, thick cuts of dark wood furniture and semi-circular booths. With the UNmeeting-of-a-menu, customers can choose from goose dishes, noodles, fried apples, an assortment of cheeses and several other options. Perfect location for big gatherings.

POLITE PUB

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floor bar starts to get busy at around 11pm and is popular with expats of all nationalities, despite having a French flavour. Run by the indomitable Thanh and once called Le Maquis, the Tet Bar these days has a slightly cluttered feel to it, but nonetheless continues to pull in the punters. Open very, very late.

THE SPOT

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0959 A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 1874 8am to midnight A stone's throw from Ta Hien, this barcum-lounge-cum-restaurant has all of the atmosphere present in bars scattered throughout the Old Quarter without being a dive. Enjoy a mixed drink, tacos or a Vietnamese staple starter with the occasional live DJ breaking out classic funk, soul and hip hop in the comfortable furnishings or on the back patio.

Q PUB

TUNNEL BAR

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BOTTLE BASED DANCE CLUB 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0915 381180. qbuphanoi@gmail.com A glitzy, spacious basement club tucked away in the corner where Luong Ngoc Quyen meets Hang Giay. It’s a laser, mirrors and disco ball affair with high tables, hostesses, bottles of whiskey and a DJ — usually playing a mixture of trance and house. Runs a number of spirits offers on different days of the week. Ask for details.

ROOTS

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REGGAE CHILLOUT BAR 2 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem 5pm to late With a reggae theme, the French-run Roots stays open late playing African and Caribbean music with some salsa thrown in for good measure. Laid back vibes. A good, late-night, Old Quarter option set on a first floor. The entrance is next to the Irish Wolfhound.

SUMMIT LOUNGE

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday While there are a few ‘rooftop bars’ in the capital, few hold a candle to the view on offer at the Summit Lounge. With a chilled but lively ambience, top shelf cocktails, and a Southeast Asian fusion bar menu, the Summit Lounge is a great place to pitch yourself above the madness and peer down at the chaos below in peace.

Sunsets are particularly special.

TEMPLE BAR

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DANCEFLOOR / LONG BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6675 7908 7pm to 2am A relative newcomer and an instant favourite, located in party mile, Temple Bar is a good choice for late night fun. The long, thin establishment is a bar out front with decks and some tiles out back – usually hosting electro pop DJs or sets from the likes of Link Hanoi. Has drinks specials most days and is guaranteed to be crammed at the weekend. Popular among locals, expats and tourists.

TAY TAP

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MEET-UP SPOT 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6917 www.taytap.com Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

TET BAR

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 3050 6pm to 5am This small and personal one-and-a-half

78 | The Word February 2012

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 11B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0936 063303 4pm to late Slim but stylish two-storey bar located just at the bend on Bao Khanh. The friendly staff can make a range of well-made and colourful cocktails. Frequent DJ nights and parties are commonplace at this watering hole that caters to both foreign and Vietnamese. Does an excellent happy hour with specials on Ricard.

WINE’S CORNER

WINE AND CIGAR LOUNGE 2 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3939 3477 9am to 1am The ambience at the relaxed wine bar near the Metropole screams red wine — the walls are painted a warm yellow, the exposed brick adds a touch of cool and the wine barrels-turned-tables are tasteful. Too bad it’s often awkwardly empty.

Features fine wines, cigars and Vietnamese and international snacks.

CAFES ALIGN 3D

POPULAR VIETNAMESE 1 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 10A Khuc Hao, Ba Dinh 7am to 11pm Popular with young Vietnamese, the Align cafes are always busy. The younger venue on Khuc Hao is hidden down a bamboo alley and has three outdoor seating areas, one of which makes you feel like you’re sat under a waterfall. The other two are on the roof, and from the middle of this embassy-type street, the sound of motorbikes is replaced with tweeting birds. 3D pictures on the walls of each floor take you back to the old city, before KFC and Parkson. Even to times before the French.

AVALON CAFÉ

LAKE VIEW LOUNGE 73 Cau Go; 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0801 www.avaloncafelounge.com 7am to 11.30pm Popular for its views of Hoan Kiem Lake, this lounge and bar is always busy. With comfy seating and balconies, the lounge and sky garden offer a pleasant escape from city-centre chaos. The smoothies are creamy and renditions of popular street dishes are spot on. Elsewhere in the eclectic menu, pizzas and pastas cost around VND100,000 and steak in red wine sauce goes for VND179,000. Classic pop instrumentals play by day, and come night, the chilled vibe is tainted slightly with electro pop.

CIAO CAFÉ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths

and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communist-driven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on 'cafe street'. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

ESPRESSAMENTE ILLY

ITALIAN COFFEE 75 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2065 8am to 11pm International standard, Italian-style espresso drinks are the name of the game at this undeniably chic chain coffee shop.

Boasting a wide range of drinks, including spirit coffees with tequila, and a small selection of pastries and panini sandwiches, the café’s clientele is a mix of tourists and Vietnamese who are tired of ca phe nau da. It is connected to a tour agency and in the central hub of the Old Quarter.

HAPRO CAFÉ

CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 6th floor, 38-40 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7984 7.30am to 11pm Take the dilapidated elevator to the 6th floor and emerge onto a balcony with one of the best views of Hoan Kiem. The big draw to this café is the vantage point — the drinks are a secondary concern, though there is about every coffee and juice concoction known to mankind on the menu and plenty of yoghurt and smoothie options too. Graze on French fries, sandwiches, salads and typical Vietnamese rice plates. Perfect for watching the city wake up or catching a sunset.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 6 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 0444 www.highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm As with any chain that attempts selfreplication, there is a tried and tested formula. At Highlands it is comfortable seating, good Wi-Fi, unobtrusive music and a mid-range, generic atmosphere.

It works, too. The Starbucks of Vietnam, a French-influenced, international and pan-Asian food menu sits alongside the teas, coffee and cakes. Has other locations at 49 Hai Ba Trung, The Opera House, The Syrena Centre, Pacific Place and more.

JOMA

COFFEE/BAKERY 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 33 88 54 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6071 www.joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of “home” to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counterstyle service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels.

Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2010 and is looking to open in Ho Chi Minh City in 2011. Has a play area for kids up in the West Lake café and bakery.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0216 7am – 8pm A must-go-to place on a lazy day, Mr Chi’s long-standing patisserie is somewhat famous for its honest, home-cooked food, no frills-but-relaxing environment and sour yoghurt fit for celebrities — Catherine Deneuve ate here daily during her time shooting Indochine. Hot fresh milk, exclu-

sive coffee, awesome croque madames and local dishes, too. Replace WiFi with a book and aircon with ceiling fans; eat in, take away, the pastries are great and the price is always right.

LA PLACE

CONTEMPORARY / VIETNAMESE 6 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 5859 7.30am to 10pm This tall, narrow lounge café with rooftop seating is a quintessential Hanoi spot. The decoration is bright and casual and the allday menu has food from both the east and the west. Draw with crayons on brown paper covering the tables as you while away the hours over coffee or cocktails, and take in the view of St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Has some interesting food options including spinach fried rice along with old standbys like tuna salad sandwiches and coconut chicken curry. No MSG is used here.

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 6334 moca@netnam.vn 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don't let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down French-styled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

MARILYN CAFE

ROOFTOP CAFE 4 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Considering the amount of flat rooftops in this city, it’s a crime that most go under utilized. However, the top floor of Chim Yen boutique and Marilyn Cafe is home to one of the more pleasant spaces in the Old Quarter. With a great, stone’s-throwview of St Joseph’s cathedral, food and beverages, this spot can turn a temperate afternoon into something a bit more special.

OCHAO TEAHOUSE

TRADITIONAL TEA ROOM 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 01887 785977 ochaoteahouse@gmail.com 8am to 10pm A stylish, two-storey traditional but contemporary tea house with great views of West Lake. Specialises in “precious” Vietnamese tea from the northern hills, handpicked by ethnic minority tribes and presented to the public by a passionate French owner. Well worth your time hanging out here on a lazy day.

PANACEA CAFE

MUSIC CAFE 25 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0909 061982 panaceacafe@yahoo.com 8am to late Slightly rough around the edges and with an artsy vibe, this is nonetheless a place that welcomes all comers. There’s live music four nights a week (Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat), but it’s not uncommon to find someone strumming away at the piano here at any time of the day. Friendly staff, good coffee, juices and cold beers.

PARIS DELI

CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish.

Also does filled baguettes and a larger café-cum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other.

The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.

Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

SEGAFREDO

ITALIAN CAFE 36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1476 www.segafredo.com.vn 7am to 11pm Names of some of the world's greatest cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of the best espresso-based coffee in town.

Red and white decor, lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an open plan space make up the mix. Besides the caffeine-based drinks, also does granita, teas, shakes and modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.

STOP CAFÉ

FRENCH DELI 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9433 8am to 11pm Situated on Hanoi’s not-so-serene ‘Pub Street’, Stop sponges up the surrounding atmosphere, which gives the French delicatessen a relaxed vibe that avoids pretension. The spot specializes in serving a mixture of western, French and Vietnamese fare, along with coffee, shakes and juice. The venue is more affordable then it’s sister location upstairs, Café de Arts, and is prime real estate to nibble on some quiche and quaff a juice on a sunny day.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP/CAFÉ 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au Trieu) 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3928 7715 www.thecartfood.com 7:30am – 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets, with a new outlet on Nghi Tam, which is more like the big-windowed coffee shops you expect to see in Europe. The Cart serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

Picomall, 229 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: 6276 1004 www.coffeebean.com 8.30am to 9.30pm Known for the quality of its coffee and tea, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf has landed in Hanoi — in the form of an air-con, westernstyle drinking space in Hanoi’s newest shopping mall. The five first coffee shops in Vietnam started in Ho Chi Minh City, and this the first one in the capital. Hanoians are finally able to taste the beverages already quenching the thirst in 20 countries across the planet. New stores to open on West Lake soon.

THE DOLL HOUSE

26 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2539 8am – 10am This new café, which fills a coffee-shopshaped gap in the market for this area, has the feel of half green house, half designconscious doll house, and is a welcome alternative for when your favourite hang

out begins to get samey. Focusing on fresh ingredients to suit the fresh design, the Doll House also has a garden terrace, and is open for party bookings and private events.

Enter through the shop out front.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

RESTAURANTS - FRENCH MID-RANGE CAFE DE PARIS

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FRENCH BISTRO 10 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1327. www.cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

MID TO TOP GREEN TANGERINE

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

TOP-END CAFÉ DES ARTS

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 7207 11am to 11pm This Parisian eatery with high ceilings is imbued with a laid back feel that comes with wooden furnishings and a nice bar.

The venue serves up traditional French dishes and boasts an exquisite rooftop terrace on Hanoi’s pub street that is home to fewer bars and more and more cafes. The place is owned and operated in cooperation with its neighbor, Stop Café.

LA BADIANE

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4509 labadiane.hanoi@yahoo.fr 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night.

A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced three-course lunch menu.

LA VERTICALE

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3944 6317 www.verticale-hanoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm Classic French Indochine décor and subtle lighting give the Sofitel Metropole Legend’s signature restaurant an elegance rarely found in Vietnam’s capital. The a la carte menu pits classic French cuisine against contemporary Vietnamese cooking with dishes like Nha Trang lobster with saffron pot au feu, the pan fried veal tenderloin on a lemongrass skewer and the calisson parfait marinated with orange, pomelo and lemon balm. Has an extensive wine list.

SATINE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555. satine@hoteldelopera.com 6pm to 10.30pm Designed for strictly dinner only indulgence, the opulent Satine provides diners the option of ordering a la carte or from one of the venue’s 12-course menus. Lavish design, royal-styled chairs and tables, three private dining rooms and the option of dining in a glass-covered courtyard are all part of the mix, with the cuisine prepared by executive chef Ms. Frédérique Nguyen.

RESTAURANTS - INDIAN MID-RANGE FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 2959 foodshop45@yahoo.com 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

INDIA PALACE & DAKSHIN

78 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5995 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm India Palace is the fourth member of owner Ravi Kumar’s family of restaurants which includes Tandoor. The menu takes the cuisine of North India and combines it with a South Indian-inspired menu, to create a pan-Indian menu appealing to all. Occupying a large four-storey villa with unobstructed views of West Lake at the front, the décor here is traditional yet contemporary Indian. The fourth floor with sweeping views over West Lake is given up to Dakshin, a vegetarian restaurant selling mainly South Indian fare.

KHAZAANA

INDIAN/HALAL 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5657 www.khaazana.vn 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm One of the two oldest Indian restaurants in Hanoi, the menu at Khazaana encompasses the entire subcontinent, complete with heavier chicken korma and northern curry dishes alongside lighter southern dosas

and uttappams. The venue is homey albeit harsh, but with quintessential masala tea, naan and raita to round out the meal, the focus here is on the food and filling your belly… or overfilling, as is more likely the case. All cuisine here is halal.

NAMASTE HANOI

47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2400 www.namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery

TANDOOR

24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 5359 tandoor@hn.vnn.vn 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indian-food enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm Service at this “slow food café” is seriously snail paced, but that is part of the charm of this modest eatery with only a few tables and small stools. Popular as a weekend hangover mainstay for the greasy eggs with cheese, the café is best known for its not-quite Mexican food. But hey, when there’s guacamole, salsa fresca, beans and cheese, what can go wrong? Be sure to try the fresh juices, like the super-booster with beetroot, and the coffee with whipped egg.

TRIEU PHUONG HONG KONG

CANTONESE/DIM SUM 317 Kim Ma, Dong Da. Tel: 3846 1327 9am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm One of the most underrated Chinese restaurants in the city, the place itself is not much to look at, but they serve above average dim sum. A variety of other Cantonese style dishes including noodle soup and rice dishes are on offer here, all at very affordable prices.

MID-RANGE AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1155 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5322 www.alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm With a real ‘diner’ kind of feel, Al Fresco’s serves up munchies-busting Aussie inspired food from a number of locations across the city including their original restaurant at 23L Hai Ba Trung. Topping the menu are the jumbo ribs at VND395,000, with generous helpings of pizzas, pastas, burgers, Tex-Mex, soups and salads going for less.

The set business lunch is three courses for VND155,000. See the website for delivery numbers and don’t forget to ask for delivery deals. Have an efficient delivery service, but make sure you ask for knives and forks.

BRITANNIA

FISH & CHIPS 15 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6694 If you want a product closest to quintessential British fish and chips, then your best option by an arm and many a leg is Britannia. The cod, plaice and haddock may have been switched for basa and

February 2012 The Word | 79

sea bass, but everything else is authentic, from the beer batter and mushy peas through to the newspaper wrapping, Scotch eggs and vinegar. Has an airy, upstairs two-room dining area.

CHEZ XUAN

OPEN AIR EATING 41, Ngo 76, An Duong, Tay Ho. Tel: 0915 085305 Though it’s a bit far from the centre, the expansive wooded area, chilled out atmosphere and good food makes it worth a visit. The menu is well equipped to satisfy cravings for fish and hearty meat dishes. If you’re in a DIY mood, you can Grill Yourself a plate of meat and seafood or choose from the gourmet selection of strip loin, ostrich or salmon to throw on the tabletop grills. Regularly holds live music events.

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4448 www.hoasuaschool.com Open from 7am to 10pm This restaurant, which schools and employs disadvantaged youths, has been popular for 11 years — as a grand villa and courtyard setting tucked away in the corner of Ha Hoi. Popular with business types, tourists and expats alike, who enjoy good food while supporting a good cause, mains like cha ca and steaks go for VND99,000 and VND289,000 respectively, and there are six set menus available which take in Vietnamese, French and Italian cuisine.

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE Ngo 40, Nha 7A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Despite a two-storey indoor dining space, Kitchen is all about its leafy, terracottatiled terrace out front, a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothiestyle drinks. Has amiable know-your-name staff and a good delivery service.

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 0337 www.koto.com.au All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

80 | The Word February 2012

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANNEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 9052 lasalsa@fpt.vn 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanishthemed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and fantastic first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

Western staff speak English and French.

LE MARRAKECH

MORROCAN 88 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3710 0389 10am to 11pm. Closed Monday Family-run Moroccan restaurant in a charming terrace-fronted house close to the start of Xuan Dieu. Focus of cuisine is on authentic couscous, tagines and kebab dishes made with a mixture of local and imported ingredients, all cooked up by a Moroccan chef. Uses Halal meat.

LITTLE HANOI

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21 – 23 Hang Gai Street, Hoan Kiem Dist Tel: 38285 333 littlehanoi@orientalstars.com.vn 7:30am - 11:00pm A tourist hotspot and one for locals, too, Little Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake has been going sturdy since 1994 — mainly for its central location, range of sandwiches, pastas and Vietnamese cuisine. Baguettes go from VND95,000 and mango salads VND99,000, not to mention the coffee at around VND50,000, wines and fresh fruit juices. With Indochina-inspired art on the walls and jazz in the background, Little Hanoi is a little escape from the chaos of the central lake.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 3098 tmbhanoi@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Located in the grounds of the Fine Arts Museum, this classy restaurant and wine bar mixes attractive décor with western cuisine, all cooked up by a New Zealand-trained Vietnamese chef. Famed for its salads, good cuts of steak, lamb shank and its various pasta fare, the menu here also incorporates a number of well-known Vietnamese dishes.

PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0912 223966 provechohanoi@gmail.com The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, self-styled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SPOON

ASIAN FUSION 15-17 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3823 5636 6.30am to 10pm An extension of Soul furniture and lifestyle

store, the restaurant and lounge bar at Spoon serves up a fusion menu in a setting that screams homeliness and style. Asian dishes, seafood and steaks are among the go-to menu choices. Attentive and competent staff top it all off in this chic restolounge.

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 0580 tamarind_cafe@yahoo.com 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat, Tamarind features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Breakfast is served all day and with Asian favourites, like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences, vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE BISTRO

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FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3726 4782 www.thebistro.com.vn A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

THE HOUSE

FUSION FARE / WINE 10 Truong Han Sieu. Tel: 6270 2611 hoangcuongfb@gmail.com The House, once Annie’s Corner, is one of the latest restaurants to occupy an old French building in the quiet streets nestled between Ba Trieu and Quang Trung. It serves Vietnamese food but with international twists. The affordable and eclectic menu ranges from local tenderloin steak to lemongrass tuna salads with a decent wine list and an ideal bring-yourown VND100,000 corkage fee per bottle of wine.

MID TO TOP GREEN MANGO

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WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 9916 www.greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm Sophisticated restaurant set inside an Old Quarter boutique hotel. Formerly a school, and now also on Cat Ba Island, Green Mango serves Vietnamese and western food, ranging from sandwiches and pasta to lamb chops and VND700,000 Angus rib-eyes. Buy-one-get-one-free deals on cocktails and beers every day from 4pm to 6pm and Lavazza coffee at all hours. With comfy seats and a soft setting, the function room at the back often hosts charity events and semi-formal get-togethers.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 8388 www.alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight The newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes — lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” — but fine imported steaks can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 8325 www.alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight With attentive service, tasty food and large portions, this place has something for everyone and has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. Also has a

large and spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

LA CANTINE

HALIA HANOI

INTERNATIONAL / CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 9897 www.lacantine.vn 6am to 11.30pm Converted from a wing of an old church, this upscale restaurant with extensive Vietnamese and international offerings is just a stone’s throw from the Opera House. Sophisticated but cozy, the salon is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea.

Expect about VND1 million for a set topend six-course meal and VND600,000 for the more downscale five-course offering.

LE PETITE BRUXELLES

BELGIAN / EUROPEAN 1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1769 10 Alley 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 5853 www.le-petit-bruxelles.com 10am to 10pm An airy and spacious long-running Belgian-themed eatery with a location by the cathedral and a second out in West Lake. Although this is not the place to wash down your Chimay, Leffe or Duval with moules frites on a daily basis — the mussels are only available seasonally — a number of other traditional Belgian dishes fill the menu including carbonade, jambonneau and boulettes sauce tomate as well as the more Swiss-sounding beef and cheese fondue. Hearty fare in a nice environment.

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 0121 www.halia.com.sg 11am to 11pm. Closed Sundays A secluded courtyard in the heart of Pacific Place plays host to one of the capital’s best restaurants. A two-floored venue split into a downstairs tapas and bar area,with a refined dining space located on the level above, the menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer, with dishes such as pan-braised Alaskan cod with sea winkle crust and the braised pork belly in shoyu and sweet mirin making an appearance. Has an extensive wine list.

MILLENIUM

TOP END

PAN-FRENCH / INTERNATIONAL 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 134490 Clean and fresh with a fine-dining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MING PALACE

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 cafelautrec@hoteldelopera.com 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

DON’S TAY HO

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 3719 www.donviet.vn Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late A bakery, bistro, restaurant, wine retailer, oyster bar and top floor lounge bar all in one, this lake-facing venue is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger.

Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negra ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6991 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This welcomed eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with two venues in Saigon — one near the Opera House and the other in Saigon South — the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list

RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN MID-RANGE

carpaccios are to die for, the pastas are all home made, the pizzas are wood-fired and the steaks are chargrilled. Does a great three-course set lunch for VND520,000++.

DA PAOLO

Nick Ross

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 8585 1443 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic.

Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3823 73338 lunadautunno@gmail.com 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian restaurant has been going for 10 years. It uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND60,000 to build-your-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space with over 35 covers and an outside courtyard, seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly photo exhibitions and opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888 Lunch 11am to 2pm, dinner 5pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6288 leo@mediterraneo-hanoi.com 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

NINETEEN 11

PANE E VINO

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4801 www.nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Named after the completion date of the Opera House under which it is located, walk inside and a labyrinthine-like, barebrick wall hallway leads you through to the main dining area. With dark browns, deep yellow tablecloths and a refined ambience aided by background classical music, the menu takes in western, panAsian and seafood fare and even has its own section dedicated entirely to foie gras. Has a 100-strong old and new world wine list that includes Bordeaux vintages and also boasts a cheaper, outdoor garden space next to Highlands Coffee.

PRESS CLUB

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 0888 www.hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm.

Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular first-Friday-ofthe-month party.

RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN

BONG-CHU JJIM-DAK

KOREAN CHICKEN B40 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Thanh Xuan Tel: 6680 1423. Visit www.bongchu.co.kr 11am – 10pm In typical Vietnamese fashion, Bong-Chu Jjim Dak restaurant only serves one dish it knows best: chicken. A light kimchi soup is served alongside the steamed bird mixed with cellophane noodles packed in a mildly peppery but sweet combination.

It’s simple — ordering options include half chicken, whole chicken, chicken and a half, or all of the above. Select the answer that best fits your appetite and escape from the ubiquitous boiled chicken on streets.

GIM BAB

KOREAN 50A Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3201 2989 One of the longest running Koreans in town, this down-to-earth eatery just off Kim Ma specialises in the Korean nation’s version of sushi rolls. These can be ordered either plain or deep-fried. Other Korean fare includes bibimbab and a range of barbecue dishes. The cuisine is brought to your low tables with floor seating and in typical Korean fashion, all meals are served with free side dishes (banchan) of kim chi, pickles and eggplant.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday Sushi, soba, sake. Buy a big bottle of sake and the staff will put your name on it

and keep it until next time. Dine at the downstairs bar or in one of the private rooms with sliding doors for an authentic Japanese experience. Although Ky Y specialises in rice-style working man’s fare, it’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but the Japanese omelets, tempura and saucy eggplant dishes are perennial crowd pleasers.

IZAKAYA YANCHA

JAPANESE BBQ 121 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8437 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Just a stone’s throw from Ky Y, this Osakabased chain does the same cuisine, but entirely differently. The small plates on the large menu are best shared among a group and with bottles of beer or sake.

The tofu in amber sauce will leave you licking the plate and the chicken with udon and vegetables is off-the-charts delicious. The tidbit barbeque sticks of okra or bacon are also great, but more as a snack than anything else.

SAIGON SAKURA

TRADITIONAL JAPANESE 17 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 7565 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm This Japanese eatery might be easy to walk past without noticing, but venture inside and you will find a small but neat interior. The food ranges from traditional Japanese to dishes that lean towards fusion. Very reasonable prices, compared with other Japanese establishments.

RESTAURANTS - SOUTHEAST ASIAN BUDGET NISA

MALAYSIAN / HALAL 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 1859 www.nisa-restaurant.com 10am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm

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PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 38269 080 Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

ZPIZZA

Floor 1, Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 5959. www.zpizza.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm Californian pizza chain in the now open in West Lake. — currently the only place to eat from this American pizza brand in Hanoi. The new pizzeria prides itself on its 100 percent certified organic wheat dough and different dishes found nowhere else, like the strawberry and goat’s cheese salad. Also serves up curry chicken sandwiches and meatball penne pasta.

TOP-END ANGELINA

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar) There are only two truly top-end, contemporary Italians in Vietnam and Angelina claims pride of place in this elite group.

This doesn't mean that prices here are off limits — take a similar eatery in Europe and here you are paying a third, which all makes a meal here a special affair. The

February 2012 The Word | 81

A two-storey fresh looking Malaysian restaurant with affable staff and authentic cuisine. Difficulty in obtaining ingredients means that these days the menu is limited, but a nasi campur buffet-style counter in the downstairs space and photos on the wall of other classic Malaysian fare allows customers to choose what to eat. Think nasi lemak, mee goreng, roti canai, beef rendang and more. It tastes good, too.

press, Dac Kim has become the powerhouse of eateries serving up bun cha (white rice noodles with barbecued pork and herbs). The formula is simple. The mini pork patties are perfectly rounded, the bacon is perfectly grilled and then the portions are humongous. If you're feeling ravenous, the servings here will fill that merry gap, but if you want quality over quantity, look elsewhere. Has a second eatery at 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem.

MID-RANGE

CHICKEN STREET

BAAN THAI

NORTHEASTERN THAI / LOUNGE BAR 3B Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8588 baanthai95@hotmail.com 10am to 10pm This venue serves arguably the best Thai food in the city. With Thai owners and staff from the country’s Isaan region in the kitchen, the place specializes in spicy staples that come from the northeastern provinces in the country. After a meal in the more traditional ground floor space, relax in the comfortable furnishings of the venue’s chic first-floor lounge.

RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH CUON PHU LY

BANH CUON 39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem 6am to 3pm Put the warm fish sauce in the small bowl with squeezed lime, chilli and fresh herbs and then dip. This is the Ha Nam version of banh cuon (rolled wet rice paper) with the gio lua (pork cake) substituted for barbecued pork and bacon. The street side, flaking paint wall location may be off putting for some, but the fare tastes great.

BANH XEO SAI GON

BANH XEO / BUN BO 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: 01296 290015 12pm to 11pm A recently opened slither of an eatery selling — wait for it — a Hanoi version of a Saigon version of a Hue dish. It's a bit of a mouthful but worth it — for all its augmentations the banh xeo (beef, beansprout and egg pancakes) served up for self rolling with rice paper and fresh herbs are pretty tasty. Also does a sweet and spicy to-die-for bun bo Nam Bo.

BUN BO HUE

BUN BO HUE 36c Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung 7am to 4pm This is the second branch of the ninemonth-old restaurant on Food Street. Like the Tong Duy Tan favourite, which is more restaurant than street-side affair, the new location serves up the same staples from further south including bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong and nem lui. Authentic, tasty and cheap

BUN BO NAM BO

BUN BO 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 0701 7am to 11pm Dressed up like an indoor version of a streetside eatery, this megalith of a skinny bun bo restaurant is famed not only for its northern interpretation of a southern dish that you can't buy in the south, but also for its ga tan (stewed marinated chicken). The bun bo itself, a concoction of sauteed beef, peanuts, beansprouts, white noodles and sweet and sour sauce, is one of the better versions available in the city. And the beef is excellent.

BUN CHA DAC KIM

BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5022 10am to 7pm With the help of over 40 years of customer loyalty and repeated mentions in overseas

82 | The Word February 2012

BBQ STAPLES Ly Van Phuc, Ba Dinh Perhaps the most well known street food Mecca in all of Hanoi, the lane is flanked with BBQ chicken joints from north to south. At the Nguyen Thai Hoc entrance, the food stalls boast proper chairs, while the venues at the opposite end offer stools and host much larger crowds. No trip to Hanoi or tenure in the capital is complete without a trip to Chicken Street.

Honey grilled banh my and potatoes provide vegetarians with savory alternatives.

COM CHAY NANG TAM

VEGAN 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 4140 9am to 9pm The set meals for one person or a group of six people make this a popular lunchtime eatery. Signs clearly demarcate the way through the alley on Tran Hung Dao to this casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Everything on the menu is vegetarian, from standard tofu with tomato sauce to more obscure fake meat dishes. The walls are moldy but the food is fresh.

COM GA HOI AN

HOI AN CUISINE 1 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3923 3856 7am to 11pm A four-storey restaurant and café specialising in food from the centre of Vietnam — or, as the name suggests, the ancient town of Hoi An. It serves everything from the famous cao lau noodles and my quang tom, to bun bo nuong and com ga Hoi An. Also sells Thai and Chinese cuisine, cakes and ice cream. A spiral staircase, a second floor terrace and pictures of the ancient town top it all off.

DAC SAN HUE

HUE CUISINE 150 Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da Tel: 6674 7917 6.30am to 10pm A no frills, ten-table restaurant easy to miss at the end of Nguyen Khuyen, just opposite the Temple of Literature. Specialises in dishes from Hue, like banh beo and banh khoai, all at local prices. The staff is friendly and helpful and the bun bo Hue is spot on.

DUONG SOM CHAO CA

FISH PORRIDGE / CHAO CA 213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3829 5281 Serves perhaps some of the best chao ca in the city. This rice porridge with fish is garnished with a healthy amount of fresh herbs and, if you choose, strips of banh quay – the Chinese style fried bread.

The fish is boneless, which helps set this place apart from others selling the same dish. One bowl is VND30,000.

MAI ANH

PHO GA 32 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 8492 5am to 4pm Ignore the doubters, this infamous eatery serves up some seriously wholesome pho ga (chicken noodle soup) in a hygienic, shared table indoor environment. The secret? The broth, a perfectly rounded chicken stock consomme. Portions are big, too, and diners can order chicken on the

bone or off and can even get an extra egg added to the soup for good measure.

PHO CUON STRIP

PHO CUON / PAN-VIETNAMESE 71-77 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh 9am to midnight For a dish purported to be invented by French chef Didier Corlou, it is phenomenal how this wet rice paper filled with beef and herbs affair has so quickly been absorbed into the street food fold.

Dipped into sweet fish sauce with a touch of chilli, it tastes good, too. The biggest proponents of this dish are on Truc Bach — a row of five street-side eateries that also sell standard, quan nhau meat and seafood fare. There is also another strip of joints just round the corner on Ngu Xa.

QUAN 32

PHO GA / PHO BO / PHO XAO 32 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem 5.30am to 11pm A hearty, slightly salty broth accompanies the pho ga at this well-known, 40-year-old street corner eatery also lauded for its tasty pho xao and pho bo. It's a simple, typically Hanoian streetside affair here with red plastic tables on the street and foot-high stools. The soup comes with an accompanying basket of slightly stale but buttery banh quay.

QUAN 49

PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 6am to 4pm A stilt-hutted street food eatery and cafe in the shadow of Elite Fitness doing a tasty version of the sweet and sour bun bo Nam Bo (southern-style beef noodles).

Ladle in the chilli and mix up with the beansprouts, fresh herbs, peanuts and sauteed beef, and you have a spiced-up, filling meal. Also does decent pho ga (chicken noodle soup) and pho xao (fried noodles). Has a semi-mezannine cafestyle space out back.

TRUC LAM TROI

VEGAN 39 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 6278 1848 7am to 9pm Vegetarians delight in being able to order anything off this more-creativethan-normal traditional Vietnamese Buddhist restaurant situated on a quiet street. Corn juice is the drink of choice here, as everyone around sips the tepid yellow stuff, and the array of fried tofu vegetable dishes makes you reconsider vegan cuisine as “health food.” Order an office lunch plate or dine in during the weekend surrounded by families and walls adorned with traditional Buddhist imagery.

WHITE CLOUD

VEGAN Nha 2, Ngo 12 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 1622 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm Simplicity is the key at this small but airy, zen-like bamboo-table eatery located behind the Syrena Centre. A rarity in Vietnam — the cuisine here doesn’t only focus on faux meat imitation — the menu mixes canh (broth) with a range of light dishes, Vietnamese-style salads and a selection of tofu and gluten-inspired mains. Worth a try for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike.

MID-RANGE CHA CA LA VONG

CHA CA 14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3929 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm A funky wooden-floored two storey, onedish-only eatery on a street devoted to one of Hanoi's best known dishes, cha ca. Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in Vietnam (established 1873) the deal

is straightforward. The butter-coated, pre-marinated fish is sauteed with dill and spring onions on the table and served up with sides of peanuts, bun noodles and fresh herbs. It's not street food prices cheap by any means, but it's darned tasty. Popular with tourists and locals.

But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the roll-your-own cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 65 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3976 0633 Situated in a turn-of-the-century French townhouse in a tucked away alley, the ‘whistling bird’ continues to offer some of the best ‘traditional’ Vietnamese food in the capital. Sit on the floor upstairs or enjoy seating downstairs, regardless this eatery serves up simple Vietnamese staples that are well executed and presented in a setting that makes one feel like a regal Hanoian.

QUAN AN NGON

CHIM SAO

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 3 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4200 10am-12am Always busy, often hectic, this multifloored restaurant is for diners who don’t mind loud noises and sitting on the floor.

It’s best for groups so you can order an array of dishes ranging from the more exotic frog legs, buffalo and ostrich, to the trusted standbys; catfish spring rolls, papaya salad and fried tofu. But it’s the exclusive Highway 4 flavoured rice wines that can be taken as shots or mixed into cocktails that keep this place crowded.

KITI RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 38 Hang Hom Tel: 3928 7241 An unassuming establishment that rarely fills up, which means that customers often benefit from better service and the servers utmost attention. What the restaurant lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with a large menu that is chalked full of reasonably priced Vietnamese fare and some western staples.

NGOC HIEU

STEAK / CHINESE NOODLES 52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 2251 7am to 10.30pm Located on the corner of Hoa Ma, this steak served sizzling-on-the-griddle eatery packs no punches when it comes to getting your beef. Get the standard banh my affair and the imported US steak is doled up with meatballs, fried egg, chips and lots of fat. It's a cholesterol mess of a meal but really tasty. Also does bun bo Hue, Phuc Kien noodles and the Khmer Chinese hu tieu Nam Vang. Has restaurants at 349 Doi Can and 71 Tran Duy Hung.

NHA HANG NGON

CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 26 A-B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6133 ngonhanoi@vnn.vn 7am to 10pm Large and always busy restaurant set in two colonial buildings. The courtyard is filled with tables and fairy light covered trees, which are circled by 18 cooking stoves. Here the chefs serve Vietnamese classics from all over the country a la carte style. Good for street side classics done well in the comfort of an airy restaurant. Of the 14 dining spaces, one room holds 30 guests. Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem Tel: 1355 9096 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake.

CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 8162 sales@ngonhanoi.com 7am to 9.30pm Long-time favourite serving up Vietnamese classics in a large French villa and courtyard. Menu is huge, made up of street-food options and higher end dishes from Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City.

Quick service makes it ideal for lunch and the array of options makes it perfect for newcomers to Vietnamese cuisine. Order loads and share, of course.

MID TO TOP AU LAC HOUSE

INDOCHINE / VIETNAMESE 13 Tran Hung Dao Tel: 3933 3533 Set in converted colonial villas and frequented primarily by travelers that unload in front of the establishment on massive tour buses, this venue is imbued with the nostalgia of Indochine, replete with chess boards, stylish fans and waitresses outfitted in ao dais. Boasts a large menu filled with Vietnamese favourites and much more.

CLUB OPERA NOVEL

PAN-VIETNAMESE 17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3972 8001 clubopera@orientalstars.com.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Indochine elegance mixes with top-end culinary flair to create one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. Fine dining it isn't — this country's cuisine doesn't really lend itself to that type of cooking. But quality ingredients and a twist of creativity makes the fare here well worth the higher price tag — think creative spring rolls and lobster cooked up with a passion-fruit sauce. This is just the start. Also has a great downstairs lounge bar.

COM VIET

IMPERIAL / CONTEMPORARY 63 Pham Hong Thai, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 5920 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm After shutting the doors at its former location, Com Viet is nestled in the tranquil neighbourhood near Truc Bach Lake.

The ‘imperial’ staple, with its pristine décor and antiques, traditional bites and regal atmosphere, specialises in serving up traditional treats with contemporary fusion — think cheese wrapped in beef with a side of pickled cucumbers and a glass of red. Go on the right night and catch live traditional music in the courtyard and feel like a king.

SOFTWATER

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 42 Duong 9, F361, An Duong, Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: 2260 8968 10am-10pm Imperial-era architecture, a rock garden with trees almost 300 years old, a beautiful lawn area and contemporary Asian-influenced international fare make up the mix at this quite unique top-end restaurant. The cuisine and drinks don’t come cheap, but then establishments such as Softwater are a rarity. Has both an international and a Vietnamese menu and is located by the river in An Duong at the end of Road 9, close to the Sofitel Plaza.

TRUNG DUONG

VIETNAMESE SEAFOOD 55 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0787 10am to 10pm There are two of these restaurants in Vietnam and the other is in Phu Quoc, the location of probably the best seafood in the country. Every type of ocean-breathing animal is available here in addition to an array of tofu and vegetables. From crab to Russian sturgeon and grouper, most of this seafood harks from down south or Halong Bay. The restaurant is set up so that every day is a banquet and you can pick your poisons from the tank.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du Tel: 3943 9342 www.wildlotus.com.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm One of the city’s most popular Vietnamese restaurants is a delight from the entrance inwards. Walk over water features and 100 roses and up the spiral staircase into subdued lighting, warm colours and a menu that mixes subtle, well-executed Asian flavours. Not for those who love the sharpness of some street foods, but definitely for those who have guests in town or business clients to schmooze.

Quite an experience.

Nick Ross

Delicious food and wine

RESTOBARS

DALUVA

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CLASSY FUSION 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 www.daluva.com A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

Additional services include catering, BBQ rentals, playroom, kids menu, takeaway and local delivery.

DERRY'S

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IRISH / WESTERN / ASIAN 63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0614 derryspub@gmail.com 3pm to midnight A multi-storey Singaporean-Vietnamese run Irish joint with all the Celtic accoutrements and drinks — think Guinness, Jameson's and Bushmills. Located on the lake, the venue also has an international food menu which takes in anything from Irish beef stew through to fish head curry, beef rendang, tom yam soup and more.

Has a solid local following and amiable know-your-name owners.

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh. Tel: 0976 751331 www.etehanoi.com 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails.

For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

J.A.F.A.

A table t set from the heart M u & Dance Music Th language of real love The to be b shared Val Valentine's day and everyday

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INTERNATIONAL The Clubhouse, Ciputra. Tel: 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance.

They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties

16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi Tel (04) 37193719-3719 or 0913 001 359 Email: Emai aaiil: donchef@donviet.vn donchef@donv www.don's-bistro.com

February 2012 The Word | 83

or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 8388 This new addition to the city from the Alfresco’s Group is definitely the meatiest yet. In the shape of a four floor, chic restobar — which has a bar lounge on the ground, a restaurant vibe on the second and third, and a “boardroom” on the fourth — Jacksons Steakhouse serves of well presented plates of imported Oz and New Zealand steaks as well as seafood.

Of course, the large restaurant wouldn’t be complete without a large wine list to match.

JASPA’S LOUNGE

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INTERNATIONAL 23C Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 6555 www.alfrescosgroup.com 9.30am to midnight Formerly known as Jo Jo’s, this miniscule yet attractive space is first and foremost a wine bar serving up tasty, western-style fusion cuisine in an elegant, subtly lit setting. Black sofa chairs line the interior, providing the perfect place to park up and chow down. Part of the Al Fresco’s Group.

OLA DE TAPAS

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SPANISH 26 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 8585 2563 9am to 11pm Nestled just off the main Old Quarter drag, this bar and restaurant daubed in the colours of the Spanish flag is the first genuine Iberian tapas bar in town. Sells a range of fare from paella through to tapas, a selection of tortilla and Spanish mains, and also serves lethal but tasty sangria.

Spanish tempanillos and reds make up the enigmatic mix.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

ROOFTOP

ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm Located on the corner of Quang Trung, this large new cafe, restaurant and bar is housed in a restored colonial building. The beautiful courtyard is liberally decorated with plants, fans, blowlight jets of water, and shade is provided by tasteful cream parasols. Inside, a non-smoking, airconditioned room is the perfect place to escape the heat. Western and Vietnamese fare is on offer, they have a huge range of wine, beer and coffee and they serve excellent fries too.

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 1901 therooftop@vnn.vn 8am to midnight If location counts for anything, then here it is spectacular. With a 270-degree view over the whole of the city, the up-on-high theme of the Rooftop is used to its full.

The bar is pretty cool, too, with bare brick, sofa-style seating, glass fronted wine displays and a private room out back for more intimate drinking. Also does day-time office lunches, coffee and decent bar food.

LE PUB

SANDBOX

LA PETIT TONKINOISE

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2104 www.lepub.org 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele.

A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix.

The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events. Has a second Le Pub at Third Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

84 | The Word February 2012

INTERNATIONAL / WINE AND JAZZ 12 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 5708 5.30pm to midnight Tucked into a quiet street close to Truc Bach, this romantic, Parisian-styled lounge exhibits art from up-and-coming Hanoi artists and is best experienced on the nights with live music. The menu offerings are rich and robust, from chicken curry to spaghetti and roast duck, all created to pair well with wine. Come for dinner and stay for the live jazz and well-curated wine selection.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3398 1979 www.southgatehanoi.com An American-run casual yet sophisticated restobar on Food Street with a great outdoor terrace area, a shared indoor bar space, a chef’s table and upstairs seating.

Matched by contemporary décor, the creative food menu focuses on doing comfort food well, while a decent new and old world wine list and innovative cocktails make up the mix. Popular with the media and artsy set.

THE BOOMBOX LOUNGE

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OLD SKOOL 1 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 2888 This ‘Chill Lounge’ is not too far from the Opera House and is ideal for drinks against a bright backdrop. Its large bar serves up test tube shooters and the Party Animal Bucket offers a range of shots. Of course, it’s a café/restaurant, too and be sure to check out the owner’s collection of boom boxes next to the DJ Booth. Live music on Wednesdays and a DJ at the weekend.

LEISURE & ARTS LISTINGS

AMUSEMENT 084 BOOKS SHOPS 084 CINEMAS 084 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 084 COOKING CLASSES 085 DANCING 085 FITNESS 085 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 085 GALLERIES 085 GOLF COURSES 085 MASSAGE 085 HAIDRESSERS & SALONS 086 KIDS 088

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

LEISURE GENERAL 088 NAILS 089 PERFORMING ARTS 089 SPAS 090 SPORTS CLASSES 090 TENNIS 090 VIETNAMESE CLASSES 090 ARTS CLASSES 090 ARTICLES MEDICAL BUFF 086 MUSIC BUFF 087 CINEMA BUFF 088 BOOK BUFF 089

CINEMAS

AMUSEMENT BINGO CAFÉ

57 Yen Phu, Tay Ho A proper two-floor pool hall with a restaurant on the ground floor. Plenty of tables in good condition, great for a night out.

COSMOS

168 Ngoc Khanh, Dong Da This bowling alley may be small, but if you’re hankering for a night at the lanes, this one has instant replay cameras that will show your strike again in slow motion.

HANOI STAR BOWL

2B Pham Ngoc Trach, Dong Da Tel: 3574 1614 Plenty of lanes, and the zany colours add to the festive feel. A game will cost VND27,000, plus a little extra for the shoe rental. All in all it makes for a night of good fun.

QUAN TOM

89 Bui Thi Xuan Tel: 3294 47844 The staff at this karaoke bar is quite friendly. Large, comfortable rooms, and – their claim to fame – a vast English language track list, makes for a good night.

BOOK SHOPS BOOKWORM

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 3711 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

HIEU SACH THANG LONG

55 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7043 A large bookstore with mostly Vietnamese material, but there is also a selection of French and English books and even some literature.

XUNHASABA

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 4068 Often referred to just as ‘The Foreign Language Bookstore’, you’ll find a decent selection of both books and magazines.

Their biggest section is composed of ESL materials, but you will also find fiction.

CINEMATHEQUE

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2648 Not a movie theater per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

MEGASTAR

Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, 6th floor, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3974 3333 www.megastarmedia.net Inside Vincom towers, this big, westernstyle multiplex shows some of the latest English language and Asian foreign films.

The experience includes fairly wellstocked concession stands, comfortable seats, air conditioning and a booming sound system.

NATIONAL CINEMA CENTRE

87 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3514 2278 Cineplex with several smaller theaters and an arcade. Movies are quite cheap, especially matinees. Be sure to ask if the movie is subtitled in Vietnamese or dubbed.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES DEMOCRATS ABROAD – VIETNAM

www.democratsabroad.org Affiliated with the American Democratic Party, like-minded and politically active individuals can stay in touch and continue to affect the political winds that are blowing Stateside. Hosts regular events for every major election cycle.

AMERICAN CLUB

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 1850 www.americanclubhanoi.com A bit worn around the edges, but the facilities are still useful and the grounds pleasant. They host frequent events that are open to the public. Wide lawn, volleyball and basketball courts may make the place worth a visit.

HANOI CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 The exclusive social and fitness club is located on the banks of West Lake. Golfers hit balls into the lake from the driving range and swimmers enjoy a lovely view from the pool. The gym is small and classes are not included as part of the steep yearly membership fees.

L’ESPACE

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2164 www.ambafrance-vn.org The cultural arm of the French Embassy is very active in the cultural life of the city.

They both organise and host many functions – music, performing arts, film. Large French language library as well as classes and workshops.

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0088. www.hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

HIDDEN HANOI

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 254045 www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 0577 The well-known restaurant also offers one-off cooking courses in the kitchens at their Truc Bach location. Don’t worry if you forget some of the tricks, as the class includes a recipe booklet.

KOTO

Lane 52/28, House 9, To Ngoc Van Tel: 3747 0377 www.koto.com.vn This charitable organisation, which helps street kids gain the skills to succeed in the hospitality industry, also offers cooking classes to the public on Tuesdays at their training centre. Learn how to make some of the items on their menu at home. Pick up is also available at their Van Mieu location.

DANCING ASPARA DANCE STUDIO

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 7916 Located in the same building as Hidden Hanoi, Aspara is a multi-genre dance studio. Will provide instruction in everything from belly dance, to meringue, salsa and bachata.

ROCKIT FITNESS

Tel: 0126 6257214 yurymiankovich@gmail.com Yury is an internationally certified personal and group exercise specialist who teaches at the gyms and provides individual trainings. Offers a good work out that incorporates jazz, hip-hop, reggae and African tribal movements. For Further info contact Yury directly through email or by telephone.

FITNESS CLUB OLYMPIA

4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049 For a monthly fee of VND170,000 you can have access to all of this well-equipped health club. There’s a swimming pool, tennis courts, weight lifting area, tread mills and everything else you might expect to find for a full work out, even if it doesn’t have all the privacy in the changing and showering areas you might be used to. Equipment could do with an upgrade, though. Also offers aerobics classes.

ELITE FITNESS

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6281 www.elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

FOUR SEASONS SWIMMING POOL

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250 This beautiful hotel has a swimming pool for VND40,000 per day, and another VND10,000 for a locker to keep your pantaloons. It might be a good idea to go during the off hours, as it’s a well used pool. But if laps are what you want, the pool is large and, at times, quiet.

HANOI FITNESS

Tel: 01256 898069 www.hanoifitness.com Hanoi Fitness is run by Henrik Olofssen, a young Swedish personal trainer. No gym, no workout space, just call and make an appointment for a personal fitness routine designed around your personal needs.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

475 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: 01267 239974 (Arnaud), www.k1-factory. com Already with a well-known sister fitness factory in Saigon, K1 specialises in mixed martial arts and fight training and private fitness conditioning in a location overlooking the south end of Ho Tay. Run

by Frenchman Arnaud Le Pont, disciplines trained at this centre include Thai boxing, Brazilian JJB, grappling, wrestling, kick boxing and English-style boxing.

NSHAPE FITNESS

71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 6266 0495 www.nshapefitness.vn This gym with American Life Fitness cardio and weight machines, provides a clean, uncrowded environment and expertly staffed facilities with a selection of fitness classes for its members. Classes include boxing, yoga and groupX with both Vietnamese and foreign fitness trainers on hand to give exercisers advice.

Membership starts from VND1.5 million per month with no joining fee.

STAR FITNESS

4th Floor, The Garden, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3787 5353 This lifestyle, top-end gym in My Dinh offers massage rooms, steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, cold plunge baths, gym areas, exercise studios, locker rooms, and a swimming pool. It is a great option for residents living on the outskirts of the city.

SUNWAY HEALTH CLUB

19 Pham Dinh Ho, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 3888 Very good equipment in this small gym, housed in a little hotel. None of the extra frills that you might expect at a larger place, but all the machines are running and well maintained. Monthly price of membership for non-guests is about VND1.4 million.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY HANOI CAPITALS FOOTBALL CLUB

www.hanoi-capitals.blogspot.com Hanoi Capitals don’t play. This football club is serious about their sport. The uniforms and attitudes alone tell you they’re no Bad News Bears. If you want to let your skills shine get in contact with Ricky at 0903 413339.

HANOI YOUTH FOOTBALL LEAGUE

www.hanoiyouthfootball.com/english/home/ The biggest youth football league in the capital. Youths aged 8 to 16 years old come together to play regular tournaments.

VIET CELTS

www.vietcelts.com The first and only Gaelic Football league in Hanoi has recently added a women’s team. The teams play in the Southeast Asia Gaelic League as well as in tournaments all over the region. Bring a sporting spirit as a spectator or a player.

Call Gareth for more information: 0904 228629.

VIETNAM SWANS

www.vietnamswans.com In true Aussie style, the Vietnam Swans footballers hold not only weekly matches and training sessions, but social and drinking affairs as well. Concerned just as much with fun as with winning, this club is welcoming to anyone who is willing to have a good time.

GALLERIES APRICOT GALLERY

40B Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8965 www.apricot-artvietnam.com This centrally located space houses art by some of Vietnam’s best-known contemporary artists, such as Hoang Hai Anh and Dinh Quan, as well as up and coming artists.

ART VIETNAM

7 Nguyen Khac Nhu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 2349 www.artvietnamgallery.com One of Vietnam’s best known and respected galleries, features contemporary Vietnamese art in all its forms: sculpture, painting, lacquer, photography and video, from both up-and-coming and wellestablished artists. Check their website for a list of exhibitions and events.

BUI GALLERY

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 8595 www.thebuigallery.com Housed in a picturesque French colonial villa, Bui Gallery is one of Hanoi's newest and boldest modern art galleries. Features cutting-edge contemporary art from Vietnam, Indonesia, China, Brazil, the US and Europe.

HANOI ART CONTEMPORARY GALLERY 36-38 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7192 www.hanoi-artgallery.com This art space is home to a large collection of your standard tourist fare along with a smatter of more unique pieces.

MAI GALLERY

113 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0568 www.maigallery-vietnam.com Several floors of paintings, regularly changed, by some of the best known contemporary artists in the country, some of whom they’ve helped in gaining international recognition. Mai specialises is finding the perfect décor for both homes and offices.

MAISON DES ARTS

31 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 8096 www.maisondesartshanoi.com A gallery near the Temple of Literature with several floors bills itself not only as an art gallery, but a multi-purpose social and cultural space. Frequent exhibitions feature both Vietnamese and international artists. Mlle. Nga, who runs the space,

also involves herself in several other cultural projects around Hanoi.

RED RIVER GALLERY

7 Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 9071 www.redriverartvietnam.com This small gallery has focused on building a collection of traditional Hanoi images with a modern twist since it opened in 1990. The gallery actively seeks out talented young contemporary artists.

SUFFUSIVE GALLERY

35A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem www.suffusiveart.com Don’t be fooled by the signs hawking café sua da. Hidden within the coffee shop interior is a small gallery showing some of Vietnam’s newest talent.

TADIOTO

113 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tadioto hosts an alternative gallery above the bar and café on the ground floor. A thoughtful space containing rare works by serious artists questioning quick development or changes in societal norms. Hosts frequent literary and musical events, along with presentations of artwork that differs from what’s available elsewhere in Hanoi.

VIET FINE ARTS GALLERY

96 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6667 www.vietfinearts.com If you’re looking for a well-known name, and a high price tag to match, Viet Fine Arts sells work by some of Hanoi’s more famous artists.

54 TRADITIONS GALLERY

30 Hang Bun, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3715 0194 www.54traditions.com.vn The only gallery in Vietnam focusing on the antiques, artifacts and art of Vietnam’s 53 minority groups and the Kinh majority people. Has over 1,000 items on display and objects in the collection have been exhibited in museums both in Hanoi and abroad.

GOLF COURSES HANOI CLUB DRIVING RANGE

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3623 8115 A fitness club that also boasts a two-level driving range where the balls are hit into the water. No net means you can gauge your driving. The price for a bucket of golf balls depends on whether or not you’re a member.

LANG HA DRIVING RANGE

6 Huynh Thuc Kang, Ba Dinh Tel: 3835 0909 The driving range has two levels and a netted area to catch the balls. Although the facilities might not be up to country club standards, it is in a relatively convenient location. One can either pay a monthly membership fee of around VND2 million, or pay by the ball as you go.

TAM DAO GOLF AND RESORT

www.tamdaogolf.com Relatively new golf club near the base of the mountains at Tam Dao. It is about two hours from the city, but does provide an 18-hole course with a clubhouse and a spectacular view, surrounded by green hills.

MASSAGE JUST MASSAGE

237 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 6671 2249 www.justmassage.org.vn Aromatherapy, Swedish, shiatsu and

February 2012 The Word | 85

medical buff

{musicbuff}

pregnancy massages all given by the hands and touch of nine visually impaired therapists. The massages here are professional and, of course, in aid of a great cause. Check their website for their range of promotions.

HANOI AESTHETIC INSTITUTE

14 Yen Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3945 4548 www.vienthammyhanoi.com.vn Trained at the Tue Tinh Traditional Hospital, the therapists at this no frills, traditional Vietnamese massage centre use a variety of techniques including tuina, aromatherapy, ayurvedic and shiatsu.

Also offer a range of healing treatments as well as not-so-traditional laser and plastic surgery.

THANH GIA

18 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 38 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem One of a number of foot massage parlours in town that has treatments focusing as much on the pressure points of your feet at they do on the rest of your body.

Strong hands, unbranded oils and, if you ask, tiger balm oil.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

WORLD CANCER DAY Cancer is the second-leading cause of death in the west. The topic can be depressing, but with World Cancer Day on Feb. 4 there is much to celebrate — great strides have been made in survival rates because of advanced screening and treatment options.

Cancer refers to any one of a large number of diseases characterized by the development of abnormal cells that divide uncontrollably and have the ability to infiltrate and destroy normal body tissue. Cancer is caused by mutations within a cell’s DNA. The DNA inside a cell contains a set of instructions, which tells the cell how to grow and divide. Errors in the instructions may allow a cell to become cancerous.

Symptoms vary depending on what part of the body is affected.

Some general signs associated with — but not specific to — cancer include: • Fatigue • Lump or thickening that can be felt under the skin • Weight changes, including unintended loss or gain • Skin changes, such as yellowing, darkening or redness of the skin, sores that won't heal or

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changes to existing moles • Changes in bowel or bladder habits • Persistent cough • Difficulty swallowing • Hoarseness • Persistent indigestion or discomfort after eating • Persistent, unexplained muscle or joint pain

TREATMENT A physical examination, appropriate laboratory tests and scans are necessary for proper diagnosis. Cancer treatments consist of surgery and/or chemotherapy and radiation therapy. However, during the past 20 years, novel methods have been employed. One such option is stem cell transplant — bone marrow transplant (BMT). Bone marrow is the material inside your bones that makes blood cells. A BMT provides the body with a new immune system to attack remaining cancer cells.

The treatment has radically improved the odds of survival for children diagnosed with ALL (acute lymphocytic leukemia). In 1975, the five-year survival rate for ALL was 40 percent. With BMT, the current

rate exceeds 90 percent.

Cancer can survive unchecked in your body because your immune system doesn't recognize the growth as an intruder. Biological therapy can help the immune system identify cancer and attack it. This treatment is often used in the early stage of bladder cancers or with skin tumours. Hormone therapy can be used in conjunction with other therapies. By removing certain hormones from the body or blocking their effects, the action may cause cancer cells to stop growing. Targeted drug therapy during the early stages of cancer has been showing great promise. It uses drugs to target specific molecules — like proteins — involved in cancer cell growth.

These drugs stop the growth and spread of cancer cells, while limiting harm to normal cells.

Studies show screening tests can save lives by diagnosing certain types of cancer early. With this in mind, its best to talk with a doctor about what types of cancer screening may be appropriate for you.

Dr WBMcNaull, Medical Director, FMP Hanoi, 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh — 3843 0748

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 09877 18899 A small but popular hair salon that serves both expats and locals. The many repeat customers go back because of Dinh’s willingness to both follow instructions, or to be creative when asked. Services include scalp massage, shampooing, colouring and styling.

FRANGIPANI SPA

405 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 6329 2915 www.frangipani.com.vn New garden-themed day spa named after the frangipani flower, known in Vietnam for its healing properties. Services include hair salon, nail care and massages.

Details to amenities like bathrobes, slippers and towels provide a comfortable atmosphere.

TA SALON

Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 1754 / 3758 2940 (Ciputra).

Hotline: 0912 267613 Multi-functional hair and body salon with a range of treatments running from haircut, highlights, shampoo, straightening and perm to hot stone foot and body massages, a range of facials, waxing, bikini lines and body scrub. With a first salon in Ciputra, TA number two is at the Hanoi club. Popular with both western and Asian expats as well as A-class Vietnamese.

THE HAIR WORKSHOP

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5980 Located in Hanoi Towers, The Hair Workshop has a number of hairdressers used to cutting and styling all types of hair. The prices are significantly higher than they would be on the street, or at a smaller shop, but there are many people who refuse to go anywhere else. A full service salon that also offers such services as waxing.

HAIR SPACE

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 127554 Run by an Australian expat named Cat, this is a small but comfortable and well-run hair studio located in the Hidden Hanoi building. There is only Cat and her one assistant, so be sure to make an appointment.

Our resident booking agent, promoter and vocalist, Debbie Clare, highlights bands, venues, acts and performances in the world of music this month Three stalwarts of the Hanoi music scene have joined forces to create Relentless Muscle — a collaboration between double bass player Dave Payne (Gibbon Suburbia, Zamina), percussionist Luke Destephano (Bread & Circus, Zamina, Toothbrush) and guitarist cum harmonica maestro Scott Ezell (solo performer and poet).

The band's debut performance at Hanoi Social Club last month saw them perform to a packed crowd, who came to hear a fusion of poetic sensibilities and traditional folk, inspired by the band members' experiences drawn from travelling the globe.

Despite being heavily involved in the Hanoi music scene for some years, this is the first time the members have performed in an outfit of their own. Front man Scott explains: "We had often talked about playing together, but never did so until recently when we had the catalyst of a gig at Hanoi Social Club. We wanted to play a set of 'naked' acoustic music, with no amplification, in order to have a more direct connection with an audience".

The band has since collaborated with the likes of Thai dub act Sticky Rice, and also joined forces

with a Jew's harp virtuoso for a special one off. Check them out as soon as you can.

CLASSICAL 2011 was a great year for classical music at the Hanoi Opera House, and with an already packed programme at the start of 2012 it looks like we're in for another great year.

On Feb. 15 and Feb. 16, the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra will perform two works by the late German composer and pianist Johannes Brahms.

Grouped with the likes of Johann Sebastian Bach and Ludwig van Beethoven as one of the Three Bs, Brahms was known to be an uncompromising perfectionist who destroyed many of his own works and left some of them unpublished.

This special concert, as part of the VNSOs ongoing subscription series, will see performances of Piano Concerto No1. D minor op.15 and Symphony No.1 C minor op.68, featuring conductor Honna Tetsuji and French guest piano soloist Michael Bourdoncle.

Brahms spent five years perfecting Piano Concerto No. 1, and finally completed it in 1859.

It is now considered to be one

of the great monuments of the concerto repertoire — powerful, tranquil, spirited and grand. Brahms' Symphony No. 1 in C minor, Op. 68, is rumoured to have taken 21 years to complete, from 1855 to 1876, and is scored for the flute, oboe, clarinet, bassoon, contrabassoon, horns, trumpets, trombones, timpani and strings.

The concerts start at 8pm on both nights and tickets go from VND200,000. Contact ticketvn@fpt. vn for bookings.

ATK Another live music venue has sprung up in the form of ATK — a bar cum speakeasy cum performance space managed

by Team CAMA. Bravely located 'on the other side of town' in the French Quarter, the venue is set to welcome through its doors local and international acts of critical acclaim.

On Saturday, Feb. 18, DJ, composer, noise musician and music lecturer Vu Nhat Tan will be spinning records accompanied by a live bassist. Expect unusual sounds from around the world set to beats.

With all live music performances being done and dusted by midnight, ATK is a great place to kick-start

your evening.

Cocktails, art and live music in a bohemian underground setting, ATK can be found at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung and is currently in its soft opening phase.

BETWEEN EXITS 24-year-old, Saigon-based American songwriter Brett Newski recently spent five months travelling throughout Asia, writing and recording his road album In Between Exits.

Brett has played with a plethora of well-known acts including OK GO, Third Eye Blind and Cage the Elephant (to name a few), and this self-penned album was recorded in makeshift studios and couchsurfer apartments from Bangkok to Hong Kong to the Philippines and everywhere in between.

Armed with just a guitar and a laptop, Newski's album captures the liberating highs and loneliest lows of solo travel and wanderlust.

The record around took 365 days to complete and cost less than US$1,000 to make. If you're a fan of Elliot Smith, Bob Dylan, Cake and Weezer, this will probably be your cup of tea.

Check out www.brettnewski.com to hear more.

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cinema buff What’s on in the cinemas this month

TRAN HUNG HAIR CREATION

5 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4946 Located near Reunification Park, Hung has a long list of satisfied clients, both western and Vietnamese. Be prepared to allot one to two hours for a cut and more for colour as Hung is a perfectionist.

KIDS HANOI ZOO

THE WEDDING CAKE (2010)

HARRY POTTER AND THE DEATHLY HALLOWS: PART 2 (3D)

Director: Denys Granier-Deferre Stars: Jérémie Renier, Clémence Poésy and Danielle Darrieux Vincent and Berengaria plan to have a wedding in the bourgeois tradition, however, the event doesn’t get off to a positive start. The renowned cake for the reception falls apart as the butler of the chateau and one of the caterers fall down the stairs. And that’s only the beginning…

This French comedy will be screened with Vietnamese subtitles at the French Cultural Centre (L’Espace) at 8pm on Feb. 24.

Director: David Yates Starring: Daniel Radcliffe, Emma Watson and Rupert Grint Local fans of Harry Potter will be relieved that local cinemas have struck a successful deal with Warner Bros to bring the final piece in the movie series to Vietnam in February — seven months after it was first released in the US. Picking up precisely where it left off, Deathly Hallows — Part 2 finds Harry burying his dear friend Dobby and setting off on another journey with Ron and Hermione to find the Lord Voldemort’s three remaining Horcruxes — the magical items responsible for his soul and immortality. They need to destroy them to weaken and ultimately defeat the force of the darkness. But as the mystical deathly hallows are uncovered, and Voldemort finds out about their mission, the biggest and final battle begins.

Watch it on Feb. 3 at Megastar, Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

Off Kim Ma, opposite Daewoo Hotel Tel: 3834 7395 Really as much a park as it is a zoo, you can find Vietnamese families on picnics here on any given day. Strewn throughout, sometimes in curiously small cages, you’ll also find a number of animals large and small, all indigenous to the country. Also, there are other attractions for children such as a fun house, and big, floating plastic balls they can climb into.

The One Man Cinema operates out of here at weekends.

THANG LONG WATER PUPPET THEATRE

Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Daily shows of traditional rustic Vietnamese carved puppets, animate folkloric tales accompanied by music.

This can be fun for adults as well as children.

VINCOM TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung There are a bunch of toy stores and shops for children in the mall area of the second tower. Also, near the food court, you’ll find an arcade with video games and tiny rides for very small kids.

LEISURE GENERAL HANOI HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

www.hanoih3.com This big, assorted “family” gets together

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL

33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

THE GIRL WITH THE DRAGON TATTOO Director: David Fincher Stars: Daniel Craig, Rooney Mara and Christopher Plummer Based on the Swedish novel, this thriller follows investigative journalist Mikael Blomkvist, who is hired by a billionaire to find his beloved niece who disappeared 40 years ago.

Blomkvist is aided by a pierced and tattooed young computer hacker Lisbeth Salander. As the investigation deepens, the duo uncovers a massive scandal of both corruption and concealed death.

Hits Megastar screens on Feb. 3

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MELIA HOTEL

44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA

STAR WARS: EPISODE I – THE PHANTOM MENACE (3D) Director: George Lucas Stars: Ewan McGregor, Liam Neeson and Natalie Portman Landing on the desert planet Tatooine after rescuing young Queen Amidala before the impending invasion of the peaceful Naboo, Jedi apprentice Obi-Wan Kenobi and his Jedi Master Qui-Gon Jinn meet a young slave Anakin Skywalker. Qui-Gon is curious about the boy and sees a bright future for him. The group must find a way of getting to Coruscant to finally solve the dispute with the Trade Federation, but there is someone else hiding in the shadows.

The first of the Star Wars 3D films hits screens internationally and in Vietnam on Feb. 10. Watch it at Megastar

4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI

10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

every week to go on out of town excursions, for hour-long runs along paths marked by flour spots, and with no lack of beer stops along the way. Drink and get into shape at the same time, and add some sight-seeing into the picture.

Emphasis here is on fun. Bus leaves on Saturdays from the American Club on Hai Ba Trung at 2pm in summer and 1:30pm in winter.

book

buff

BOOKS OF THE MONTH

HANOI LITTLE LEAGUE BASEBALL

www.hanoibaseball.com If you’re looking for a little league baseball team in Hanoi, this is the website to check out. One of the first, if not still the only, such club in town, their mission is to teach young people about the game, teamwork and to have a great time.

Practice every Saturday at Xuan Dinh Field from 6.15 to 8.30 am

NAILS FANCY SPA

26 Dinh Ngang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 4183 A small Vietnamese spa and salon. Prices are quite high, but the shop offers a wide range of services in addition to manicure/ pedicure.

LINKQ

271 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3725 2359 One of a chain of all-purpose beauty salons that specialises in manicures and pedicures. This place has a lot of business from word of mouth, so it’s best to call ahead and make an appointment.

THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA

57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 www.thucucbeauty.com This all-purpose beauty salon offers spa pedicures in a Zen-like atmosphere where your manicurist won’t be chatting on her mobile phone.

TOP SPOT

52 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8344 They offer a long-lasting, professional manicure and pedicure service for barely more than you would pay to get your nails cut on the street. The staff doesn’t speak much English, but they have an extensive menu to choose from.

PERFORMING ARTS HANOI CIRCUS

67 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung For VND50,000, see an array of live performances, both human and animal. Bears ride motorbikes, monkeys do tricks. The acrobatic performances are particularly amazing.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)

www.hitshanoi.com Hanoi’s premiere community theatre group has been entertaining audiences around the city since 2001. The amateur acting society both draws from and gives back to the local community. All profits from the bi-yearly performances are donated to charities in Vietnam.

HANOI OPERA HOUSE

1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0113 www.ticketvn.com This French colonial building hosts a packed schedule of cultural events throughout the year, everything from the New York Philharmonic to cutting edge Vietnamese performance art has graced its stage.

Bookworm’s Truong offers suggestions for the weeks ahead Lately I’ve been hooked on dystopian novels — stories that deal with the creation of a nightmare world. This world is usually found in science fiction novels and I really like it when great authors venture in this direction.

I started off with Ray Bradbury’s Fahrenheit 451 mainly because it had celebrated its 50th anniversary and there was a lot of hype about it. Fahrenheit 451 is the temperature at which book paper burns and Bradbury’s story is about the compulsory burning of books and the outlawing of reading in a future America, where life is nothing but mindless pleasure with all ideas and culture controlled by a central body.

He said his novel is not about censorship but about how he feared that TV had the potential to destroy peoples’ interest in good literature.

The story follows a bookburning fireman, Montag, as he meets a charismatic woman who persuades him to question his job. He steals a book, rather than burning it, and falls under suspicion from the authorities and eventually has to run away and join the outcasts. These are people who have decided to rescue books by committing one to memory and thus become living libraries.

A re-issue of the book as a graphic novel is also a great success.

I followed on with Anthony Burgess’ 1962 novel A Clockwork Orange, which Modern Library put as 65 on its list of the 100 best books of the 20th Century. It’s set in a future Britain where the divide between the rich and the poor is way out of balance and where the government sets up a Pavlovian programme to deal with the rise of crime by young people in dysfunctional housing estates.

It’s narrated by young hooligan, Alex deLarge, in the pig latin language used by these young hoods. After a while their Nadset becomes easy to read and you realise that it’s derived from Russian and Slavic.

Burgess coined the term ‘ultra violent’ in this book and the excellent, though dated, movie of the same title was banned in many countries due to its content.

Once you see it you can’t hear the song Singing in the Rain or the last movement of Beethoven’s 9th without a shiver of dread running down your spine.

Then I read Margaret Attwood’s parable about globalization Oryx and Crake. This was published at about the same time as the outbreak of the SARS virus and became popular, especially with those worried about the rise

of genetic modification in the food and medical world. It is a cautionary tale about humans playing God and the revenge the gods give them. The story is set in a world gone horribly wrong through human mistakes. Climate change has made the world nearintolerable to live in and genetic modification of humans has given rise to an underclass who toil for the rich, while the poor live in desperate places called Pleeblands.

One of the last remaining of the privileged, called Snowman, tells the story of what the reader assumes may be the last weeks of the human race on earth as survivors are set upon by awful beasts that were conceived in test tubes.

Attwood is a Booker Prize winner and Oryx and Crake was short listed. She has since written a prequel that I want to read after I finish her very early work The Handmaid’s Tale, which is about women who, in a future place, are reduced to the status of breeders.

Once their fertile life is finished they are done away with. It was written as a cautionary tale about the anti-feminist backlash that was rearing its head in the west and that was manifesting itself in Taliban-run Afghanistan.

Find Truong at Bookworm — 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3715 3711

February 2012 The Word | 89

THANG LONG CA TRU THEATRE

25 Tong dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3665 54608 Head to this theatre, lodged on the campus of the Vietnam Revolution Museum, for a taste of one of Vietnam’s most traditional musical forms.

YOUTH THEATRE

11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hoan Kiem A few blocks south of Hoan Kiem Lake, this community theatre space hosts both music events and theatre productions.

SPAS KIM DUNG

38 Nguyen Cong Hoan, Ba Dinh Tel: 3483 50079 Face massage, hair care, manicure, pedicure, this is a one-stop shop for all sorts of comfort services and products. Facilities are clean and modern. Hairstyling also available.

SPORTS CLASSES HOANG CAU SPORTS CENTRE

59 Hoang Cau, Dong Da Tel: 3511 8030 The distinction of this fitness centre is that they have a large space, filled with a “number of different fields of different sizes”. Includes areas for aerobics, football and rugby. Classes depend, according to the season.

UNIS COMMUNITY EDUCATION

UN International School, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org The UN International School is located between West Lake and the highway heading to Noi Bai Airport. They have great facilities and offer a number of different classes throughout the year.

TENNIS THUY LOI SPORTS COMPLEX

35 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9461 This all-purpose spa offers the full menu: massage, nails, skincare at reasonable prices. Discounts offered to regular customers.

95 Chua Boc, Dong Da A wide sports pitch that also offers a swimming pool and a football field – if you get tired of tennis. Football fields are almost always crowded, but even for tennis it might be good to go during the off hours.

LE SPA DU METROPOLE

VAN TUE THANG LONG

LANCY SPA

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 sparec@sofitelhanoi.vnn.vn A five-star spa for a five-star hotel, this colonial-style centre of relaxation is pure luxury. Choose the genre of music you want to hear in your treatment room from a menu, select anything from themenamed facials through to traditional, Vietnamese-style massages, and indulge.

It comes at price, but when you’ve just got to treat yourself…

ORCHIDS SPA

34 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4862 www.orchids-spa.com Just a few steps away from bia hoi corner, the unisex Orchids spa recently one a VTV award for being one of the top spas in Hanoi. Treatments range from facials through to waxing, saunas and slimming treatments.

SANTAL SPA

112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 4686 Private rooms with showers, a beautifully designed interior, well-trained and professional staff. The place to go if you want to forget a busy work week, or the busy streets.

THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA

57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 Near Truc Bac, Thu Cuc is an all-purpose spa where you can get a full-body massage, a facial, manicure or pedicure in a relaxing environment. Both prices and service are comparable to the West.

ZEN SPA

100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9889 www.zenspa.com.vn Brushing up against the banks of the Red River, this Indochine-styled day spa hideaway comes replete with an oasis-like bonsai garden and peace and quiet, a perfect tonic to the chaos of the city. Has a range of five-element spa packages as well as just one-off facials and waxings and other treatments. Has a second outlet at 100 Xuan Dieu as well as spas in Hoi An.

90 | The Word February 2012

136 Ho Tung Mau, Tu Liem A little bit hard to find, but Van Tue Thang Long offers quite a bit of room, with a sit-down restaurant and a few tennis courts. Facilities are a bit run down, but a place to go if you want to play tennis on concrete courts.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE TEACHING GROUP

164 Le Thanh Nghi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 7236 9842 www.vietnameseteaching.net Offers not only Vietnamese classes, but also a variety of excursions and events that will help foreigners and expats to better understand Vietnamese culture.

Organised and professional, classes are usually sold in blocks, which you pay for in advance.

VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY

B7 Bis, Bach Khoa, Dong Da Tel: 3869 4323 www.vnu.edu.vn/en This national university also offers some language and culture classes to foreigners. Teaching standards are high, and prices are not unreasonable, at around VND150,000 for a one-on-one lesson.

YOGA & MEDITATION UNESCO YOGA CENTER

3B Dang Thai Than, Ba Dinh Tel: 3913 5497 www.yoga.com.vn One of the only yoga studios in town exclusively devoted to the practice.

Professional instruction with well-trained teachers, and a very low monthly fee.

ZENITH YOGA

3rd floor, 111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0904 356561 www.zenithyogavietnam.com A premier studio offering some of the best yoga, pilates and tai chi in town.

Kids’ yoga, prenatal yoga and meditation are also available. Professional instruction along with a peaceful atmosphere creates one of the most zen places in Hanoi. Drop in classes are available for VND200,000 and a month unlimited class pass costs VND1.8 million.

FASHION

LISTINGS

ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 090 CLOTHING 090 LINGERIE 091 SHOPPING MALLS 091

ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR BOO SKATESHOP

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 1147 This skateshop offers a variety of clothes, shoes and skateboarding equipment. Most of the T-shirts are made and designed in Vietnam, while the shoes and other equipment are made for export, often rejected due to minor defects. Staff is knowledgeable about Hanoi’s best skateboarding spots.

EURO FASHION SHOES

26, 84/16 Ngoc Khanh, Tel: 0904153041 While you may have to dig through piles of mismatched or orthopaedic-looking shoes, this shop is full of hidden gems in larger sizes, a rare find in Hanoi.

EURO SHOES

320 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem If you’re looking for a diamond in the rough, head for Euro shoes, which has a wide selection of options, many of which you’ll want to give a pass. Often carries larger sizes than most Vietnamese retailers.

HANDMADE SHOES

18 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5357 This cobbler’s shop repairs shoes and makes shoes to order. The staff speaks limited English, so it’s best to bring along your favourite pair to get copied.

HUONG’S JEWELLERY SHOP

62 Hang Ngan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 1046 A small store specialising in silver necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and pendants. While Huong’s merchandise is mostly silver or pearl, the staff will also make jewellery to order.

IPA-NIMA

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THREE TREES

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8725 The jewellery on offer, designed by a Belgian expat, often features chunkier gold shapes with small, well-placed diamonds. Hidden in the back of the store there is also a display case featuring less-expensive costume jewelry.

TINA SPARKLE

17 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7616 An eclectic assortment of costume jewelry and Chula dresses are scattered among a wide collection of bags by one of Vietnam’s most popular designers, Ipa-Nima. Check out the seasonal sales for heavy discounts.

VIETNAM OPTICAL

138B Giang Vo, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3736 5505 This all-purpose eyewear shop offers free eye exams and a wide selection of frames. Usually there is at least one English-speaking staff present. The quick and easy service means you will be out of the store, lenses in hand, in an hour.

CLOTHING CALVIN KLEIN

19-21 Dinh Tien Hoang ; 61-63 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name then Calvin Klein’s lakeside store has got it pretty much sewn up. Underwear sits next to jeans going for around VND2.5 million and a range of quality CK shirts, belts and more. By Hanoi standards, prices are high, but think relative. VND5 million for an original, welltailored pigskin jacket is pretty good going.

COCO SILK

37A Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 1535 High-end silk clothing retailer located near the Temple of Literature carries contemporary looks based on traditional Vietnamese styles.

73 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 4000 Started by Hong Kong born designer Christina Yu, Ipa-Nima’s stores are filled with their one-of-a-kind purses and accessories.

Their use of colour, a unique design philosophy and hand done embellishments appeals to jetsetters and fashionistas from Los Angeles to Paris. Always eye-catching and trendy, Ipa-Nima accessories are tangibly timeless and sophisticated.

CONTRABAND

KINH MAT HA THANH

EOS FASHION AND DÉCOR

2 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3928 6556 Large selection of lenses as well as biomedic contact lenses imported from the US. But buyer beware, lenses in Vietnam usually aren’t scratch-resistant.

LONDON DIAMOND GALLERY

21 Nguyen Huy Tu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 4972 6327 www.londondiamondgallery.com Home to the world’s finest gemstones, master craftsmen and jewellery experts, London Diamond Gallery is among the most established jewellery houses in the world, with an international presence that spans across England, Japan, Hong Kong and South-East Asia.

LOUIS VUITTON

Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen Tel: 3824 4977 This boutique offers an exclusive collection of the French designer handbags and accessories.

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

45 Phan Dinh Phuong, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3629 78574 The limited stock in this clothing store is made up for by the unique design of the pieces, which are refreshed by the designer every month.

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics.

Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-to-measure service are available at no extra cost.

HANOI SILK

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 3062 . www.hanoisilkvn.com Located on the ground floor of the Sofitel

Plaza Hotel, this silk shop offers a highquality selection of ready-made items. The most popular sellers include robes, linensilk blend shirts, ties and jackets.

ISALYNA

1 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3762 4405 www.isalyna.com The retail outlet for local designer Teddie Tran, who believes that fashion is all about “attitude”. Accordingly, the store’s pieces are mostly basics that can be combined with a range of high-quality leather accessories and jewellery for a unique fashion statement.

KANA

41 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6208 Reasonably priced handmade silk clothing and accessories in a wide range of patterns sized to fit western bodies.

KEN SHOP

108 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6270 0256 A popular stop for silk lovers, this store is all about soft and light fabrics. Silk, cotton and silk cotton mixes in creamy summer colours or eclectic prints. Ken has a wide range on offer, from casual summer skirts to fancy dresses. A cute collection of toys made of cotton and imported jewellry and accessories are also for sale.

KENLY SILK

108 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 7236 www.kenlysilk.com Instantly recognizable with its two-pillared shop front, Kenly prides itself on professional guidance and high-quality materials from a design’s conception to finish. The shop caters to everything from fashion shows to personal designs.

KHAI SILK

133 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 4237 One of the better established silk shops in Hanoi, this store also has a satellite shop in the Sofitel Metropole. With outlets throughout the country, this household name is a great place to go for ready-made silk items. You may find better deals at other shops, but with the highest quality silk, at Khai you pay for what you get.

LUALA BOUTIQUE

61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 9899 www.luala.vn Close to the Opera House, this “concept store” dressed up as a spacious boutique and café is aimed at the luxury, lifestyle-focused end of the local market. Has clothing and accessories for men and women and stocks the likes of Vera Wang, Nina Ricci, Elie Saab, Paul & Joe and much more. Also slated to show contemporary Vietnamese art. Check out their website for latest arrivals and their full range of brands.

MARIE-LINH COUTURE

SONG

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 6965 This boutique, whose name comes from the Vietnamese word for “life”, stocks high-end linen and silk clothes in a serene store awash with the fresh scent of mint. Located just across the street from the cathedral, prices are on par with its higher-end neighbours.

TAN MY

66 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1579 www.tanmyembroidery.com.vn Located in the heart of the old quarter, on “silk street”, Tan My claims to be Hanoi’s oldest silk and embroidery shop and boasts customers like Hillary Clinton.

The three-storey shop offers everything from clothes and hand-embroidered baby pillows to sumptuous silk bedding.

TAN MY DESIGN

61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1154 800sqm of elegant, modern space that offers one-of-a-kind pieces to add to your home furnishings or wardrobe. Located across the street from the other Tan My, one of the oldest silk and embroidery stores in Hanoi.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 9999 A shopping plaza offering a range of international brands such as Levi’s, United Colours of Benetton, Nike, Adidas and Geox.

SPORTSWEAR ADIDAS

83 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:3828 7190 www.adidas.com The capital city’s flagship store of the international retailer of sport clothing and equipment.

B.BALL

65A Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da, Tel:3224 10780 bball.com.vn This hoops-themed store sells balls, basketball shoes and jerseys of the madein-China variety.

VINATEX

NIKE

25 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem In-town factory outlet for the Vinatex clothing corp. Carries items for men, women and children at low prices.

LINGERIE ANA MAI

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho This small boutique stocks lingerie similar to Parisian designers Agent Provocateur and Cosabella.

AUBADE

52 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh . Tel: 3822 9051 Pretty, lacy underwear imported from France. Carries mostly small sizes, up to a western sized medium.

MINOSHE

59 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem This popular store carries a wide range of bras and underwear. Additional locations in Hanoi Towers and Vincom Towers.

SHOPPING MALLS

MOON

36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0737 Shopping mall includes international designers such as Versace collection, Dolce and Gabbana, and Roberto Botticelli.

20 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, www.zantoc.com Walk past the rows of teddy bears and head for the small rack of clothing, which offers unique Japanese-designed dresses and shirts. The second floor has a selection of home goods. There is a loyalty program for frequent customers.

VINCOM TOWERS

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com A small shop on the first floor of the Hanoi Club sells a range of equipment to fulfill your golfing needs, including clubs, balls and clothes.

HANOI TOWERS

NAGU

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This large shopping centre located at the southern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake includes shopping options for every price range.

Bargain bins full of locally-produced clothing stand beside a Nike retail outlet. Offerings also include a cosmetics department and multiple electronics retailers.

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

11 Nha To, Hoan Kiem; 74 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Parisian-style clothing combined with quality Vietnamese dressmaking skills.

The beautiful clothes are available in silk, organza and linen. Also available for online orders. With the accompanying home décor and accessories shop on 38 Hang Trong, it is possible to live an entire life of couture.

111 Ma May, Hoan Kiem This small shop carries handmade embroidered linen and silk clothes that are usually less expensive than those found at the larger stores. The shop owners make most of the clothes themselves, so they will adjust designs to fit personal tastes.

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

49 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem The retail space on the first floor of this complex includes everything from a golf shop to a hair salon. After shopping you can enjoy a cup of coffee at the Highlands Café or a sandwich at Papa Joe’s.

OCEAN PARK LUXURY MALL

PARKSON

Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da www.parkson.com This Malaysian-owned department store prides itself on making the shopping experience one that is “more exciting and fun”. Unlike many of Hanoi’s retailers, this megastore is also appealing to those who just want to browse. Departments include men’s, women’s and children’s clothing as well as home furnishings.

HANOI CLUB GOLF SHOP

Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung www.nike.com With multiple locations open, and more to come, Nike retails high-end sports clothing and accessories, including yoga mats and water bottles.

TOLIA

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Also known as the “Russian shop”, Tolia retails overstock outdoor wear made for export. Brands include Jack Wolfskin, The North Face and Patagonia.

ZONE GOLF

Hanoi Towers, 49 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3936 3233 This centrally-located shop carries all the equipment and gear you need for a day at the course.

TAILORS CAO MINH TAILORS

250 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3594 www.caominh.com Located near Cua Nam street at the western-most end of Hang Bong, this established tailor with over 50 years of experience specialises in quality materials from Italy and England. The go-to place for top-of-the-range suits and shirts for all occasions. The shop is new and the service spot on.

CO

18 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 9925 Though this tailor offers both men’s and women’s clothing, the well made dresses displayed in the window and the range of bright colours and patterns caters mostly to female tastes. Located in the shadow of the cathedral, it’s a little pricier, but you pay for the view.

NGOC SHOP

64 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4747 This English-speaking tailor located near the fabric market off Pho Hue offers a

seasonal collection of ready-made designs.

The owner will also copy clothing or sew from your own designs. Fabric can be picked out in the shop or you can bring your own.

MS TAM

Tel: 0989 098903 With a long list of foreign clientele, Ms Tam works from her home not too far outside of central Hanoi. She will pay a visit to where you live to take measurements and then bring the final clothes back a few days later. She also carries a book of fabric swatches for those who truly want to skip the shopping experience.

THANH HA

114 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Located in the heart of the old quarter, this tailor caters mostly to tourists, but a large collection of Vogue pattern books makes communication very easy.

OPTICIANS & GLASSES SUNGLASSES STREET

Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name, well here its all in a number - two of them in fact, 51 & 58. Not exactly conventional opticians - the rows of shops here do sell frames with lenses and have basic eye-testing services - but if its sunglasses with brand names superglued on top, here is the place.

THU HA KINH THUOC

134 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4570 Free eye testing in this well-known, German-trained opticians that also doubles up as a medical clinic and pharmacy specialising in eye problems. Sells a range of branded and non-branded spectacles and sunglasses. Located opposite the National Hospital of Ophthalmology.

VIETNAMOPTICAL

48 Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung & 231 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan Tel: 3736 5505 www.kinhmatvietnam.com.vn Chain of opticians, glasses and sunglasses stores selling a range of branded and Chinese-imported frames starting at VND100,000 a go and rising to over VND2 million. The in-store optometrist gives free eye tests. Helpful, English-speaking staff.

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART

210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart.com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX

22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO

126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

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BAKERIES DONKEY BAKERY

8 Nguyen Hoang Ton, Tay Ho www.donkey-donuts.com Founded as a donut shop, it now also offers a wide range of German-inspired breads for those who favour nutrition over sugar. A loaf of rye bread rings in at VND40,000. Donuts, breads, cookies and sandwiches can be ordered online and delivered to your home or office. The bakery employs mostly disabled persons and is dedicated to providing them with high-quality training and care.

KINH DO

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem One of the oldest and most well-established bakeries in the city, maybe best known as Catherine Deneuve’s former haunt, Kinh Do has been around much longer than any expat. But their breads, pastries and quiches keep foreigners and Vietnamese coming back. Extensive Western and Vietnamese menu as well.

LE CROISSANT

21 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3943 6707 www.hoasuaschool.com A well established and well respected Hanoi institution. Le Croissant not only makes excellent baked goods of all kinds, but is also part of the NGO Hoa Sua, a school for disadvantaged children that teaches them life changing skills.

VIETNAM QUILTS

6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 6697 With two locations, one by the Opera House and the other by St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Paris Deli makes a good job of their breads, tarts and pastries. Both are sit-down restaurants, but are happy to sell you their baked goods over the counter, to go.

THU HUONG BAKERY

35C Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 3868 A small but popular Vietnamese-style bakery selling all types of sweets and cakes, luxuriously decorated. They also sell baguettes and sliced breads. They also deliver.

CRAFTS CRAFTLINK

43 Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3843 7710 www.craftlink.com.vn This non-profit organisation helps traditional artisans seek new markets. for sale in the retail space include handmade textiles from the northern provinces.

INDIGENOUS

36 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0977 799911 A crafts and home furnishings shop stocked by the Hold The Future organisation, which helps disabled and underprivileged children in Hanoi and northern provinces.

MARIE LINH HOME DECOR

38 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 0436 www.marie-linh-design.com This newly-opened shop sells specially designed decorative objects in traditional Vietnamese lacquer and pottery in unique styles. It also retails small accessories that are easy to pack in your suitcase. Items are sold in the shop and online.

92 | The Word February 2012

MOSAIQUE

6 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 6181 This home furnishings shop specialises in unusual lamps and hand-embroidered pillow covers, but also carries other colorful bric-a-brac and clothing. Free delivery of all purchases.

UMA

13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 4831 Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

CT 6 My Dinh, Tu Liem; 147 Doi Can, Ba Dinh; 210 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3972 7412 www.uma.vn Designers and retailers within the interior industry, each branch sells trendy furniture for modern living as well as interior design for all types Vietnamese houses.

FURNITURE

Tel: 3716 0400. www.velvetunderground.biz This shop offers a range of ready made items, from bedding to hot water bottle covers as well as the option of designing your own item from a choice of fabrics.

The friendly and helpful English-speaking staff make shopping a pleasure instead of a chore.

BAMBOO FURNITURE CORNER

Cnr. Quang Trung & Tran Nhan Trong, Hai Ba Trung This cluster of furniture shops offer lowpriced bamboo products from baskets and desks to drawers.

VELVET UNDERGROUND

BELLIZENO

130D Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3825 1343 The factory location of the Bellizeno bedding company includes a retail space for their high thread count sheets and bedding.

CARPET STREET

There are a number of made-to-order carpet and rug stores along Kim Ma from roughly number 239 to 299.

CHI VANG

63 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 0601 Located near the lake, this store offers a wide range of embroidered bedding and tablecloths. Items can be purchased in the store or hand-embroidered to order.

COTYLEDON

PARIS DELI

156 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7264 Nestled in the heart of the old quarter, Maroon sells accent pieces to brighten up any household: lacquer picture frames, lamps, and silk bedding.

1A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7887 This shop stocks high-end duvet and cushion covers, quilts and tableware like runners and placemats.

EUROPEAN IKEA SHOP

35 Ngo Thanh Mie, Dong Da This tiny shop carries a small collection of IKEA brand furniture, but can order more from the catalogue.

GRAND BOIS

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This high-end wooden furniture store located on the first floor of Hanoi Towers has offered best-selling designs for a decade. The classic pieces are mostly constructed out of dark wood and are complemented with cream-coloured linen lampshades and cushions.

HANOI MOMENT

101 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7170 This shop makes sifting through lacquer kitchenware and accessories easy. While its stock may not differ from the stores next door, the display is less overwhelming.

LA CASA

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 4084 2 Bao Khanh lane, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 9616 www.lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

MAI LONG

71 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3822 5393 This shop sells material for curtains and window blinds. They make house calls to measure and install.

GROCERIES AU DELICE

3 The Giao, Ha Ba Trung. Tel: 3972 0584 www.au-delice-online.com A European style deli and grocery store with all sorts of imported products for your dinner parties or a homesick night in. Their claim is to have the best selection of cheeses in Hanoi.

BETTERDAY

114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 6258 3511 Specialising in organic and fair trade coffee, tea and cashews, this shop also offers an array of products for mindful living. Find perfumes and candles by Dame Clemence, as well as eco-friendly laundry detergent, all natural jams, and virgin coconut oil in this boutique food shop.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

19/298 Ngoc Lam, Gia Lam. Tel: 3873 6079 www.classicfinefoods.com The place to go for imported foods such as foie gras, high-quality meats, pastas and dairy products. Although they specialise in the wholesale market, they occasionally do retail sales.

HUNG LONG MINIMART

71B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 6220 This little store around Westlake has the feeling of one of those small ethnic markets you find in London or New York, but the ethnicity is Western. Reasonably priced canned foods, potato chips, cookies and other snacks that may be difficult to find elsewhere in the city.

PUNTO ITALIA

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 6258 3510 www.puntoitalia.asia Punto Italia is an authentic Italian supplier importing the finest espresso coffee as well as Italian coffee machines for professional, home and office use. Real Italian granita, ice-cream and much more is now available in Vietnam with the support of a professional and friendly service.

VINE CELLAR DOOR

7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories,

espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

THE OASIS

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

LIQUOR & WINE BACCHUS CORNER

1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

DA LOC

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1325 This wine importer and distributor has over 250 different types of wine in its portfolio and is doing its part to bring a culture of fine wine to Hanoi. The main office and showroom is on Hai Ba Trung and an upscale outlet is located within the grounds of the Mercure Hanoi hotel on Ly Thoung Kiet.

HANOI GOURMET

1B Ham Long, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3943 1009 Not just a wine shop, the long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

18 Yen The. Tel: 3747 4889 15a Ngo Van So. Tel: 3943 7226 28 Xuan Dieu. Tel: 3719 8337 #6, Lane 1, Au Co. Tel: 3718 6271 Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu. Tel: 3823 8749 The retail face of wine distributor Celliers d’Asia, this small wine shop is in the French Quarter, adjacent to the Metropole.

The focus here is on quality and the portfolio ranges from French to Chilean to the barrage of wines coming from Down Under. Delivery service available.

VINE CELLAR DOOR

7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

MARKETS CHO HOM

Corner of Pho Hue and Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung One of the best places in the city to buy fabrics. Found a tailor, want to make clothes? Here you’ll find everything you need, stuff imported and domestic, silk, cotton, linen. Also any sewing materials you might need can be found here.

CHO SINH VIEN

Xuan Thuy and Pham Hung, Cau Giay The Student Market, across from Hanoi

National University, caters to students.

Mostly durable goods, clothing and accessories here. As far as style and size of clothes, selection is a bit limited, but if you take your time you may find something worth the trouble.

The market, as well as the food stalls surrounding it, are open quite late.

Prices are also tailored for the student budget.

DONG XUAN Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem

The biggest market of it’s kind in Hanoi, Dong Xuan is filled with pretty much any durable good you can think of: from jeans to jewelry, from leaf tea to livestock. The indoor market spills out onto the streets, which can also serve a good place to get a meal pretty much any time.

FLOWER MARKET

Au Co, East Side of Street The name can be a little deceptive, since it’s more of a distribution point, where flowers come in to vendors all over the city.

Of course you can buy directly from sellers here at a good price, provided you’re up late enoug`h. The other reason to come is for the pho stands. The market begins late at night and continues well past dawn.

FOOD BUFF

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS A DONG PHOTO CO

128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0732 This camera shop retails a wide range of cameras, including both analogue and DSLR models, as well as film and accessories like flashes and lenses.

ALPHA LAPTOP

95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418 This laptop retail and repair shop also carries camera accessories and cases.

FUONG MAY ANH

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568 This small store has a wide selection of Viet Nam-produced Pentax cameras. Also has a selection of imported lenses.

NGUYEN CAU

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem This camera shop overlooking the lake develops both digital and film prints. Services include photo mounting and passport photos.

COMPUTERS AND ELECTRONICS DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772 This large electronics retailer deals in computers, printers, as well as external storage devices.

HI-TECH USA

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 6261 A small, but good all-around electronics store, selling all kinds of electronics. Speakers, I-Pods, headphones, cables and phone accessories.

Many name-brands.

PICO PLAZA

35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This is a super-sized electronics shop with each floor devoted to a specific kind of electronics.

You’ll be able to find pretty much anything you’re looking for here, from a phone to a computer to a washing machine.

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES

28B Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0983 011081 This service company can help with a just about any computer-related task. Computer repairs, set up, Wi-Fi, design, networking and development.

On-site and off-site service, and free quotes.

VIETSAD

34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3747 8771 Located on bustling “computer street”, this shop offers a range of computer accessories including keyboards and USB drives. They also do computer and laptop repair.

COOK AT HOME WITH SHAHAR LUBIN CHOCOLATE ON THE WILD SIDE Some words are pure magic. All you have to do is utter them and your mind's aflutter. Let me throw one out there for you — chocolate. Hmm, you can probably already smell it. From its early roots as a ritualistic spicy drink in the jungles of Central America to the architectural marvels it is woven into in Europe's top confectionary shops, nothing is as comforting as a cup of steaming hot cocoa on a damp cold night, or as decadent as a slice of triple chocolate cake. And no food is as synonymous with Valentine’s as chocolate.

This recipe is a bit on the professional side, but is sure worth the fuss for a special dinner. It takes a combination that might sound weird, yet I consider a classic.

Chocolate and mushrooms. Tell your loved one they're having chocolate tonight, and watch his or her shock when you bring out the duck!

Juniper berry crusted duck breast with cocoa spaetzle, bok choi and mushroom chocolate foam (serves two)

a sieve to get a very fine powder) 2 tablespoons dark cocoa powder 1/4 cup milk 1 egg 1/4 cup flour (approx) Mix the milk and egg. Season with salt and white pepper. Blend in the mushroom powder, cocoa, and enough flour to make a thick batter slightly thicker than a pancake one.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.

Lower the flame and push the batter through a colander with large holes into the water. Cook for one minute, and take out. Put in cold water to cool down. Strain and mix with oil to prevent sticking.

To serve, fry the spaetzle in a large hot pan with a spoon of oil until slightly brown.

BOK CHOI Cut two bok choi into quarters. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and cook the bok choi for twenty seconds before removing and chilling in ice water. Squeeze dry.

To serve, pan-fry the bok choi with thinly sliced ginger.

SPEATZLE

MUSHROOM CHOCOLATE FOAM

2 tablespoons mushroom powder (nuke some dry shitakes in a microwave for 10 seconds, mixing, and repeating until extra dry. Be careful not to burn them. Grind in a coffee/spice grinder, and pass through

1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons chopped shallots 1/2 tablespoon dark unsweetened cocoa powder 1/4 cup chopped mixed mushrooms 1/3 teaspoon white pepper

1 cup chicken broth 1/3 cup cream 2 tablespoons melted dark chocolate, preferably 70 percent and up (nuke in a microwave for ten seconds at a time and mix until all melted) Sweat the shallots in the butter.

Add the cocoa powder, white pepper and mushrooms and cook until slightly brown. Add the chicken broth and cream and cook until soft. Strain and puree in a blender, slowly adding back the liquid.

To serve, warm up and add the melted chocolate. Buzz in the blender until quite foamy.

DUCK Roughly grind black pepper with juniper berries. Take two duck breasts (200gr. each) and score the skin. Season with salt and crust the meat side with the spice mix. Put skin side down in a cold pan and put on a medium heat. Let the fat melt and fry it in its own fat until the skin is nice and brown. Turn over and keep basting with the hot fat until brown. The meat should be about medium-rare, but if you like your duck cooked more then put it an oven preheated to 200cº. Slice thinly.

ASSEMBLY Pile the fried spaetzle in the middle of a plate. Top with the sliced duck breast. Arrange the bok choi around the rim and ladle the sauce in a circular fashion and on the duck.

February 2012 The Word | 93

MEDICAL

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

LISTINGS

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE DR. TRAN HUONG

80 Ngo Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0913 540907 www.drhuong.tk Dr. Tran Huong is well-known in Hanoi thanks to his long experience as both a practitioner of traditional Chinese and Western medicine. The clinic treats severe and chronic pain with a variety of drugfree methods, including acupuncture, acupressure, cupping and moxibustion.

YAKUSHI CENTER

Lane 28, No 6, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1971 The centre offers such services as acupuncture, massage and traditional Chinese medicine. One of their specialties is the hot rock massage. Run by Dr. Thuy, a qualified practitioner, the Yakushi Center has a clean and relaxing environment and takes a holistic approach to health, designed to take care of both body and mind.

COSMETICS PARKSON

Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da One of the newer malls in the city, Malaysian-owned Parkson offers international name brand cosmetics. For those days when you feel like treating yourself, do your shopping in a real mall atmosphere.

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Stop here for everything from moisturizer to lipstick before heading upstairs to continue the shopping trip. Keep in mind, imported cosmetics don’t come cheap.

COUNSELLING INTERNATIONAL SOS VIETNAM, LTD. 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 www.internationalsos.com In addition to emergency healthcare, the clinic also offers consultations by in-house specialists, full counselling and psychotherapy services. Call to make an appointment.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3843 0748 (24 hours) www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice provides psychotherapy and nutrition counselling services by in-house specialists. For more informa-

94 | The Word February 2012

tion or to book an appointment, please call the clinic.

COSMETIC SURGERY NEW LIFE CLINIC

6 Nguyen Thi Thap, Khu do thi moi Trung Hoa, Nhan Chinh Tel: 6261 6166 www.newlifevietnam.comA small clinic that offers cosmetic dental work, skin treatments and minor cosmetic surgery.

The on site doctor, Ms. Ha, was trained at the University of Southern California.

DENTAL AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC

3 Nguyen Du, Dong Da. Tel: 3944 5216 www.nhahoaucchau.com A clinic with modern facilities and internationally trained dentists. The prices here are more than competitive than the other international dental clinics in town.

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL

95 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 3972 The dental practice is located on the first floor of this well-organised health clinic.

The waiting time is short and the doctors competent.

ONE DENTAL

No 8, Lane 27, Xuan Dieu,Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168 Providing quality dentistry in a calm, relaxing environment where patients can enjoy the dental experience. Has an attentive and experienced mixed foreign and Vietnamese dental team who are there at all times to assist with any questions or concerns.

PEACE DENTAL CLINIC

51a Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2286 www.peaceclinic.biz Established in 2001, it is run by an American dentist named Frederick. The clinic has a number of dentists trained in such places as Japan, Denmark and the Czech Republic – so the doctors are also fluent in many languages.

INTERNATIONAL SOS

1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: 3934 0666 24-hour emergency service with pricey, but international quality emergency and routine dental services. This is the place to go when your wisdom tooth needs pulling in the middle of the night, or you fall down and break a tooth. Competent doctors and fast service.

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi Tel: 3710 0555 www.westcoastinternational.

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who share a vision to deliver modern, highlevel dental services throughout Vietnam.

From the waiting room to the chair, the clinic is designed to provide the highest quality technology, comfort and afterservice care to patients.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3843 0748 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

NHA THUA VINH PHUC

625 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh While it appears to be your basic street pharmacy, this small shop front stocks some hard-to-find medicine.

SUPPLEMENTS AMEVITA SUPPLEMENTS

Tel: 3759 2515. www.amevita.com.vn Sells high quality vitamins and supplements imported from the USA including multivitamins, probiotics, joint care, herbals, fitness and anti-aging products. Free delivery in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Available online and at select retailers.

ULTIMATE NUTRITION

Hotline: 0917 295091. www.allsportvietnam.com Protein supplements, high quality vitamins, testosterone, muscle gain and fat loss supplements for those looking for professional sports nutrition to help their exercise or training regime. Call the hotline for free delivery to your home or office.

VETS

FMP PEDIATRIC UNIT

Van Phuc Compound, 298 D Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3726 5222 fmpkidshanoi@vietnammedicalpractice.com At the new Pediatric Unit of the Family Medical Practice Hanoi, services include routine newborn and well-child check-ups, updated immunizations and vaccinations, out-patient treatment and follow-up.

FMP’s pediatric specialists provide professional consultancy for every milestone in your child’s life, from infancy to adolescence.

FRENCH HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da. Tel: 3577 1100 This was the first international hospital created in Hanoi, and still viewed by some as the gold standard for medical treatment. Offers everything from standard medical and preventative care to surgical procedures. Full-service hospital that has both doctors and staff that speak good French and English.

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC

1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho. Tel: 3934 0666 Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

PHARMACIES H CLINIC

24T 1 Hoang Dao Thuy, Cau Giay. Tel: 6251 2835 A clinic with a very large pharmacy that can fill pretty much any prescription you get in Hanoi. They also offer minor medical consultations.

ANIMAL CARE

16 ngo 424 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 2246 1946 / 0978 776099 www.phongkhamthuy.com Locally-run clinic specialising in treating cats and dogs as well as providing a range of pet-care accessories, from animal food to clothing, toys and much more.

ASIAN VETERINARY & LIVESTOCK SERVICES (ASVELIS) 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3178 2779 www.asvelis.com English, French and Vietnamesespeaking veterinarian providing a range of medical services as well as grooming, boarding and certification for pet import and export. Also sells a range of pets toys as well as other products.

DR. BAO, MOBILE VETERINARIAN

Tel: 0903 223217 vetdoctorvn@yahoo.com On-call, English-speaking veterinarian who does the rounds in Hanoi. Well-respected, knowledgeable and, according to the feedback, very funny.

INTERNATIONAL LABORATORY & VETERINARY SERVICES

31 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho District. Tel: 3719 9994 www.vetsinvietnam.com A Vietnamese-owned small-animal veterinary clinic with English-speaking vets. Offers a range of healthcare and laboratory services as well as a selection of products for all animal needs.

Products can be ordered online via their website.

Tiêng Viêt NHỮNG NÉT MỰC SÁNG TẠO / THỰC KHÁCH BÍ ẨN - MÓN ĂN ĐƯỜNG PHỐ HÌNH ANH: DOMINIC BLEWETT

"Nhûäng ngaây naây, Cêu laåc böå Xùm hònh Haâ Nöåi tiïëp àoán lûúång khaách rêët phong phuá. Tyã lïå khaách haâng nam-nûä laâ khoaãng 50/50 vaâ bao göìm caã khaách laâ ngûúâi nûúác ngoaâi vaâ Viïåt Nam"

NHUNG NÉT MUC SÁNG TAO Haãi Vuä àûa chuáng ta vaâo thïë giúái hònh xùm úã Viïåt Nam – cuãa quaá khûá vaâ hiïån taåi – vaâ phaát hiïån ra rùçng caái maâ trûúác àêy àûúåc coi laâ möåt àiïìu cêëm kyå thò nay àaä trúã thaânh möåt nghïå thuêåt saáng taåo. Hònh aãnh búãi Dominic Blewett

96 | The Word February 2012

T

rong con mùæt ngûúâi phûúng Têy thò hònh xùm chó nhû möåt caái möët mang trang sûác trïn ngûúâi – mùåc duâ chuáng laâ nhûäng trang sûác töìn taåi vônh viïîn.

Caách thïí hiïån baãn thên naây àaä tûâng àûúåc gaán vúái hònh aãnh cuãa nhûäng têìng lúáp bêët haão trong xaä höåi, giúâ àêy laåi gùæn chùåt vúái nïìn vùn hoáa tû tûúãng cuãa chuáng ta. Cuâng vúái nhûäng tïn tuöíi lúán trong nïìn giaãi trñ nhû David Beckham hay Angelina Jolie, nhûäng ngûúâi àaä hy sinh laân da cuãa mònh cho hònh thûác nghïå thuêåt naây, quan niïåm vïì hònh xùm àaä thay àöíi maånh meä chó trong möåt thêåp kyã. Xùm tröí àaä trúã thaânh xu hûúáng chuã àaåo, thêåm chñ coá phêìn quaá phöí biïën àïën nöîi teã nhaåt. Thêåt khoá àïí phuã nhêån àiïìu naây khi chuáng ta dïî daâng bùæt gùåp

nhûäng hònh xùm àûúåc phö trûúng búãi nhûäng ngûúâi thanh niïn treã tuöíi úã àö thõ vaâo bêët cûá möåt cuöëi tuêìn naâo.

Tuy nhiïn, úã Chêu AÁ, núi nguöìn göëc cuãa truyïìn thöëng àaä ùn sêu, cêu chuyïån vïì hònh xùm vêîn coân laâ möåt àiïìu khaá kiïng kyå. Ðiïìu naây coá veã àang chuyïín biïën möåt caách chêåm chaåp nhûng ngûúâi ta coá thïí caãm nhêån sûå thay àöíi àoá àang lúán dêìn lïn trong tû tûúãng cuãa thïë hïå treã Viïåt Nam. Khi nhûäng khoaãng caách vïì thïë hïå trúã nïn röång hún, nhûäng chuêín mûåc nghiïm ngùåt truyïìn laåi tûâ nhûäng thïë hïå trûúác giúâ àêy trúã nïn àaáng baân caäi. Thïë hïå treã cuãa Viïåt Nam àang tòm caách taåo dûång nïn nhûäng truyïìn thöëng múái, vúái nhûäng bûúác ài coân khaá roán reán, cêín troång.

"Mònh chûa bao giúâ bõ tûâ chöëi khi xin viïåc vò mònh coá möåt hònh xùm trïn ngûúâi," anh Vuä Maånh Cûúâng, 27 tuöíi, ngûúâi Haâ Nöåi noái.

Laâ ngûúâi Viïåt nhûng Cûúâng múái trúã laåi Haâ Nöåi sau böën nùm du hoåc taåi Thuåy Ðiïín. Taåi àoá, Cûúâng àaä gùåp möåt nûä hoåa syä veä hònh xùm xinh àeåp úã möåt bûäa tiïåc vaâ vaâi ngaây sau, anh àaä thêëy mònh àang ngöìi trong chiïëc ghïë xùm hònh, hy sinh 5 phêìn trùm caánh tay cuãa mònh àïí cö veä hoåa syä àoá veä lïn. "Tuy nhiïn, trong cöng viïåc mònh coá quan têm liïåu àöëi taác ngûúâi Viïåt nghô thïë naâo vïì mònh," Cûúâng tiïëp tuåc noái. "Mònh thûúâng giêëu hònh xùm àoá khi gùåp gúä nhûäng àöëi taác maâ mònh nghô hoå trên troång giaá trõ truyïìn thöëng, nhûng mònh cuäng chûa tûâng bõ ai àaánh giaá vïì àiïìu àoá.

Thûåc ra rêët nhiïìu ngûúâi toâ moâ hoãi mònh àaä xùm úã àêu, vaâ àoá cuäng laâ möåt trong nhûäng thûá mònh thñch khoe àïí caãm thêëy gêìn guäi vúái giúái treã úã àêy." Ðoá laâ nhoám nhûäng thanh niïn àûúåc gùæn vúái biïåt danh "Thïë hïå 9X", nhûäng ngûúâi àûúåc sinh ra vaâo nhûäng nùm tûâ 1990 trúã laåi àêy, trong giai àoaån àêët nûúác àaä coá nhûäng sûå phaát triïín vïì mùåt kinh tïë vaâ xaä höåi.

Vúái nhûäng cú höåi àïí tiïëp cêån aãnh hûúãng cuãa phûúng Têy quaá dïî daâng, chó cêìn qua möåt nuát nhêën chuöåt, giúái treã Viïåt Nam giúâ àûúåc coá thïm sûác maånh àïí traãi nghiïåm caác phûúng caách thïí hiïån baãn thên qua thúâi trang hay nghïå thuêåt möåt caách àa daång, trong àoá coá xùm hònh. Nhûng hoå cuäng gùåp phaãi sûå thêët voång cuãa möåt têìng lúáp lúán tuöíi hún, nhûäng ngûúâi vúái tû tûúãng truyïìn thöëng vêîn cho rùçng xùm hònh àöìng nghôa vúái viïåc söëng khöng laânh maånh.

Chõ Kim Vy, 28 tuöíi tûâ thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh vaâ coá böën hònh xùm trïn ngûúâi: hai hònh úã sûúân, möåt trïn ngoán tay vaâ hònh múái nhêët laâ úã chên, chia seã "Coá rêët nhiïìu ngûúâi úã

àêy khöng chêëp nhêån àûúåc viïåc xùm hònh.

[Ngûúâi ta nghô rùçng] nhûäng ngûúâi coá hònh xùm chùæc chùæn coá vêën àïì."

Anh trai cuãa Vy khöng thñch nhûäng hònh xùm àoá, nhûng àaä chêëp nhêån quyïët àõnh xùm hònh cuãa chõ. Tuy nhiïn khöng phaãi ai cuäng sùén saâng caãm thöng nhû vêåy. "Coá àêëy.

Nhiïìu luác mònh àaä bùæt àûúåc nhûäng aánh mùæt khoá chõu cuãa möåt söë ngûúâi khi hoå thêëy hònh xùm cuãa mònh," chõ noái.

Nhûäng thaânh kiïën naây àaä tûâng laâ lyá do khiïën Vy phaãi mêët khaá nhiïìu cöng àïí nguåy trang nhûäng hònh xùm cuãa mònh trûúác nhûäng ngûúâi thên trong gia àònh trong voâng hún möåt nùm. Tuy nhiïn úã möåt khöng gian gêìn guäi nhû vêåy thò khöng coá bñ mêåt naâo coá thïí giêëu kñn àûúåc. Vaâ cuöëi cuâng laâ chõ àaä cúãi boã hïët nhûäng nguåy trang àoá àïí cho moåi ngûúâi biïët.

"Meå thêëy hònh xùm trïn chên traái cuãa mònh. Mònh àaânh noái döëi rùçng àoá chó laâ hònh veä thöi. Cuöëi cuâng quaá mïåt moãi vúái viïåc che giêëu chuáng, mònh quyïët àõnh noái thêåt vúái meå.

Baâ rêët giêån vaâ söëc. Meå mònh noái: "Con àiïn aâ? Con laâm sao thïë? Con coá biïët laâ con khöng thïí xoáa àûúåc nhûäng hònh xùm àoá khöng?"

Nhûng mònh traã lúâi rùçng mònh cuäng khöng coá yá àõnh xoáa chuáng ài."

QUAN NIÏÅM KHÖNG LAÂ VÔNH VIÏÎN Tiïn phong trong nïìn vùn hoáa xùm hònh naây laâ Trêìn Chñ Hiïëu, ngûúâi quaãn lyá cuãa Cêu laåc böå Xùm hònh Haâ Nöåi ra àúâi taám nùm trûúác taåi thuã àö. Hiïëu nhúá maäi nhûäng khoá khùn anh gùåp phaãi khi tòm caách àïí hònh thûác nghïå thuêåt naây àûúåc chêëp nhêån caách àêy gêìn möåt thêåp kyã.

"Taám nùm trûúác, ngûúâi Viïåt Nam coá caái nhòn phaãn caãm vúái xùm hònh vò phêìn lúán nhûäng ngûúâi coá hònh xùm [coá möåt quaá khûá

bêët haão]. Hoå xùm cho nhau bùçng nhûäng chiïëc kim cuöån vúái chó vaâ duâng mûåc laâ than taåo ra tûâ viïåc àöët chaãy caác àöi deáp töng. Nhûng thûåc ra xùm hònh àaä coá úã Viïåt Nam tûâ haâng nghòn nùm vïì trûúác."

Thúâi kyâ maâ Hiïëu nhùæc túái laâ thúâi Huâng Vûúng (khoaãng nùm 2879 trûúác Cöng Nguyïn). Truyïìn thuyïët kïí rùçng nhûäng ngûúâi thúå lùån moâ ngoåc trai ngûúâi Viïåt àaä xùm tröí nhûäng hònh thuâ cöng phu lïn trïn lûng mònh àïí giuáp àuöíi nhûäng quaái thuá úã biïín.

Khi nhûäng con ngûúâi Viïåt Nam àêìu tiïn àõnh cû trïn maãnh àêët naây, hoå àaä thêëy rêët nhiïìu nhûäng ngûúâi àaân öng vúái nhûäng hònh xùm nhû thïë, vaâ àaä àùåt tïn nhaâ nûúác nùçm trïn daãi àöìng bùçng söng Höìng naây laâ Vùn Lang vúái yá nghôa Ðêët cuãa nhûäng ngûúâi xùm hònh.

Tuy khöng phaãi laâ möåt nghïå nhên xùm hònh, nhûng Hiïëu thuï bêíy hoåa syä treã vaâ taåo cho hoå möåt maái nhaâ àïí hoå thoãa sûác saáng taác vúái nhûäng cú höåi àûúåc veä hay sún nhûäng miïëng daán xùm, nhûäng buöíi hoåc xùm hònh vaâ caã nhûäng àïm nhaåc tuyïåt vúâi nûäa.

"Mònh thêëy rùçng ngûúâi Viïåt coá êën tûúång sai vïì xùm hònh, vaâ mònh muöën thay àöíi àiïìu àoá," Hiïëu noái. "Ngoaâi ra, mònh cuäng muöën mang laåi cú höåi àïí nhûäng ngûúâi têm huyïët vúái nghïå thuêåt naây coá thïí kiïëm àûúåc thu nhêåp dûåa vaâo taâi nùng cuãa mònh."

Cuâng vúái nöî lûåc lúán àïí thay àöíi nhûäng thaânh kiïën, Hiïëu cuäng àùåt ra nhûäng quy tùæc nghiïm khùæc cho nhûäng àöëi tûúång cêu laåc böå cuãa anh phuåc vuå. "Chöî mònh coá nguyïn tùæc laâ khöng chûãi tuåc, khöng huát thuöëc, vaâ khöng duâng chêët gêy nghiïån. Baån phaãi tuên theo nhûäng quy tùæc àoá vaâ chó luác àêëy baån múái coá thïí gia nhêåp cêu laåc böå vaâ àûúåc xùm hònh úã àêy."

Nhûäng ngaây naây, Cêu laåc böå Xùm hònh Haâ Nöåi tiïëp àoán lûúång khaách rêët phong phuá. Tyã lïå khaách haâng nam-nûä laâ khoaãng 50/50 vaâ bao göìm caã khaách laâ ngûúâi nûúác ngoaâi vaâ Viïåt Nam. "Haånh phuác cuãa mònh chó bùçng con söë 0 khi mònh múái múã cêu laåc böå naây vò gùåp phaãi quaá nhiïìu khoá khùn. Nhûng bêy giúâ mònh àang úã mûác 7 röìi," Hiïëu chia seã.

Vêîn coân chöî àïí múã röång hún nûäa quan niïåm cuãa ngûúâi Viïåt vïì viïåc xùm hònh, nhûng coá möåt àiïìu chùæc chùæn rùçng Hiïëu seä khöng coân phaãi àún thûúng àöåc maä trong cuöåc àêëu tranh naây nûäa.

Khi thïë hïå treã Viïåt Nam àûúåc nuöi dûúäng vúái nïìn êm nhaåc, phim aãnh vaâ internet, möåt ranh giúái àaä àûúåc taåo ra giûäa hiïån àaåi vaâ truyïìn thöëng. Cuâng vúái viïåc toaân cêìu hoáa diïîn ra khêín trûúng, Viïåt Nam cuäng àang nhanh choáng xaác àõnh àûúåc àùåc tñnh cuãa mònh trïn maái nhaâ thïë giúái. Vò thïë coá veã nhû thïë hïå treã cuãa àêët nûúác naây cuäng àang khaám phaá ra àùåc tñnh riïng cuãa mònh thöng qua hònh thûác nghïå thuêåt khaá nhiïìu àau àúán vaâ vônh cûãu naây.

February 2012 The Word | 97

T

Bong Chu

phuát ùn, möåt chuát ngûa ngûáa oâa biïåt thûå núi nhaâ haâng dïî chõu úã cöí hoång luác àêìu giúâ Haân Quöëc Bong Chu àaä chuyïín thaânh sûå suåt giaãm múái khai trûúng coá thïí chûác nùng cuãa möåt con ngûúâi laâm baån dïî daâng caãm thêëy nhû (tûúng àöëi) bònh thûúâng. mònh àang àûúåc múâi duâng tiïåc Nhûäng núi chó phuåc vuå möåt moán duy nhêët Cay quaá. Baån coá thïí trúã nïn töëi xa hoa úã dinh cû cuãa möåt ngaâi thûúâng àûúåc thêëy úã caác quaán ùn trïn vóa heâ, bõ cêìm tuâ ngay chñnh trong Ðaåi sûá. Toâa nhaâ traáng lïå naây miïång cuãa mònh. Khöng lêu chùæc chùæn laâ möåt trong nhûäng nhûng lêìn naây thûåc khaách bñ êín cuãa chuáng ta sau, töi vaâ baån töi khoác oâa lïn nhaâ haâng coá veã ngoaâi àeåp nhêët thûã nghiïåm khaái niïåm àoá trong möåt nhaâ haâng vúái nhau, tröng nhû möåt cùåp cuãa thuã àö. Khöng gian sên vûúân Haân Quöëc rêët àùåc sùæc úã thuã àö. Hònh aãnh búãi taân phïë àaáng thûúng. àûúåc giûä gòn cêín thêån àoán chaâo Xem thûåc àún laåi vaâ nhû baån tûâ cöíng vaâo ngay lêåp tûác Dominic Blewett coá sûác quyïën ruä baån búãi nhûäng mong àúåi, töi thêëy rêët nhiïìu chiïëc baân thùæp nïën, nhûäng cêy coå thûá vêîn coân ài keâm vúái moán nhòn moán suáp gaâ vaâ rau böëc khoái nghi nguát múä maâng vaâ nhûäng chêåu cêy caãnh àiïím xuyïët ùn. Ngûúâi böìi baân ngay lêåp tûác àùåt maånh naây tröng rêët giöëng moán lêíu Lancashire hay möåt caách coá chuã yá. Nhûng baån seä àûúåc lûúång möåt àôa cúm rang àêìy (giaá 40.000VND). Moán möåt moán Ai-len. Ðêy laâ möåt moán noáng, hoaân thûá nïëu mùåc àöì chûa àuã trang troång. naây mang laåi hûúng võ nheå nhaâng, thúm haão trong muâa àöng vúái nhûäng miïëng gaâ Taåi àêy baån àûúåc àoán tiïëp niïìm núã nhû ngaát vaâ giuáp chuáng töi caãm thêëy maát meã coân xûúng, caâ-röët, khoai têy, haânh, haåt tiïu, ngûúâi baån thên thiïët. Nhûäng ngûúâi böìi baân hún. Bûúác cuöëi cuâng trong bûäa ùn naây theo rau caãi bùæp vaâ àêåu àûúåc nêëu quyïån vaâo nhau noái caã ba thûá tiïëng Anh, Viïåt Nam vaâ Haân àuáng caách laâ uöëng möåt baát dong chi mi, vaâ trong möåt nûúác söët àùåc saánh, phuã trïn möåt Quöëc ban àêìu coá veã nhiïåt tònh quaá khi muöën baån seä coá caãm giaác nhû mùåt mònh àûúåc laâm lúáp miïën daây úã dûúái. töi goåi moán ngay caã khi chûa ngöìi xuöëng, maát trong tuã laånh vêåy. Võ cûáu tinh nûäa laâ hai Thêåt tuyïåt vúâi khi baån coá trong tay möåt nhûng sau àoá, hoå àaä chêåm raäi hún vaâ phuåc vuå miïëng dûa cùæt vuöng vùæn thûåc sûå àûa chuáng thûåc àún hûúáng dêîn baån ùn tûâng bûúác möåt vúái möåt phong caách cên bùçng, vûâa ên cêìn chu töi trúã laåi cùn phoâng, vaâ vúái möåt húáp rûúåi àïí coá thïí thûúãng thûác àûúåc hïët hûúng võ cuãa àaáo, vûâa thên thiïån. soju (giaá 120.000VND), bûäa ùn kïët thuác möåt moán ùn: Bïn dûúái nhûäng miïën thõt gaâ ninh nhûâ, Coá möåt thûá töi luön luön thñch úã nhaâ haâng caách troån veån. baån seä thêëy möåt lúáp miïën – haäy nhúá ùn miïën trûúác Haân Quöëc vaâ Nhêåt Baãn laâ nhûäng chiïëc baân * Töi khuyïn baån nïn thùm khu vïå sinh úã àêy. nheá! Ðûúåc, vêåy töi seä thûã. Ùn myâ bùçng àuäa göî hònh chûä nhêåt rêët chuêín vïì kñch cúä vaâ hònh Khöng chó búãi hoå coá möåt giaá saách göìm nhûäng taåp chñ kim loaåi àaä luön laâ möåt thûã thaách, nhûng ùn daáng. Coá àuã chöî àïí hai ngûúâi coá thïí ùn cuâng hay vaâ rêët nhiïìu thûá àïí àoåc, maâ coân búãi baån seä thêëy miïën àûúåc ngêm têím trong möåt lúáp nûúác söët nhau maâ khöng coá caãm giaác bõ xa hay gêìn möåt phoâng tùæm lúán, möåt chêåu tiïíu vaâ möåt böå sûu têåp àùåc vaâ trún tuöåt thò quaã laâ möåt cêu chuyïån nhau quaá. Phoâng coá ñt trang trñ thöi nhûng lúán caác saãn phêím àïí rûãa tay vaâ kem thoa tay. hoaân toaân khaác. Nhûäng chiïëc àuäa bùçng kim khöng bõ truâng lùåp vúái nhûäng hoåa tiïët bïn loaåi laâm cho baån ùn thêåt chêåm. Töi lêåt trang ngoaâi, nhûng aánh àeân thò húi saáng quaá. Tuy sau cuãa thûåc àún ra àïí xem coá hûúáng dêîn BONG CHU nhiïn, khöng gian múã, thoaáng àaäng vúái nhaåc naâo giuáp mònh thùæng àûúåc trong trêån chiïën B40 Nguyễn Thị Định, Trung Hòa nïìn ïm dõu taåo thaânh möåt núi khaá töët àïí baån naây khöng, khöng coá gò caã ngoaâi bia vaâ rûúåu.

Nhân Chính, Thanh Xuân coá thïí têåp trung hoaân toaân vaâo àöì ùn.

Nhûng hoå coá khaá nhiïìu loaåi ngon àêëy. Điện thoại: 6680 1423 Ðiïím àùåc biïåt thu huát cuãa Bong Chu laâ Nhûäng gia võ taåo nïn nûúác söët tuyïåt vúâi ngoaâi viïåc àêy laâ möåt nhaâ haâng duy nhêët theo kiïíu naây, úã àêy chó phuåc vuå duy nhêët möåt moán ùn. Möåt xuêët ùn (420.000VND) mang àïën cho baån möåt khêíu phêìn ùn rêët lúán cho hai ngûúâi. Cuâng vúái sûå trúå giuáp cuãa möåt chiïëc keáo lúán vaâ möåt chiïëc kòm, àêy laâ möåt moán khaá khoá ùn. Nhûng cuäng cuäng khaá thuá võ. Thoaåt

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naây vêîn laâ möåt bñ mêåt. Möåt ngûúâi böìi baân noái vúái töi rùçng: "Noá coá haåt tiïu, vaâ nhûäng gia võ Haân Quöëc bñ mêåt khaác." Vaâ bñ mêåt vêîn àûúåc giûä vûäng. Tuy nhiïn caái maâ töi khöng mong chúâ laâ nhiïåt trong buång cuãa töi, trong miïång töi, röìi tai töi, mùæt töi, vaâ caã muäi töi nûäa cûá tùng dêìn lïn. Sau hai mûúi

CHẤM ĐIỂM (THANG ĐIỂM 15): Đồ ăn: 13

Trang trí: 10

Phục vụ: 13

Bài viết này chỉ có mục đích đóng góp cây dựng tích cực

Ð

Con Hào

oá laâ búãi vò con haâo thûúâng àûúåc cho laâ coá taác duång kñch thñch ham muöën tònh duåc, vaâ búãi vò chó vúái möåt chuát boáng Haâo gioá vïì tònh duåc thöi laâ baâi viïët naây àaä trúã nïn thuá võ hún. Nhûng thûåc sûå töi chó muöën khuyïën khñch baån haäy thûã moán haâo tûúi thêåt tuyïåt vúâi naây.

Phêìn lúán haâo cuãa Haâ Nöåi àûúåc chuyïín túái tûâ Nha Trang hoùåc Haãi Phoâng. Chuáng àûúåc phên loaåi to hoùåc rêët to vaâ àûúåc ùn söëng hoùåc nûúáng. Nhûäng ngûúâi hay ùn haâo úã Haâ Nöåi thûúâng túái nhûäng àõa àiïím nhû Cêìu Göî hay Töëng Duy Tên.

Cêìu Göî, úã phña bùæc cuãa Höì Hoaân Kiïëm laâ núi viïåc sùn luâng haâo cuãa chuáng töi bùæt àêìu. Ðêy laâ möåt con phöë söi àöång, ngay caã trong nhûäng àïm mûa vaâ mang laåi rêët nhiïìu lûåa choån vïì haãi saãn. Cuâng vúái möåt vaâi ngûúâi baån nûäa, töi dûâng chên úã quaán àêìu tiïn cuãa buöíi töëi, söë 46 úã ngaä tû giao vúái Haâng Beâ núi coá nhûäng cêy cöí thuå àûúåc cùæm àêìy hûúng. Cö chuã coá möåt phong thaái rêët chuyïn nghiïåp, àeo möåt caái tai nghe bùçng len dêìy àoâi hoãi khaách haâng phaãi noái thêåt to àïí àûúåc cö àïí yá túái. Sau khi chuáng töi goåi moán theo àuáng kiïíu "têy", tûác laâ chó, gêåt, röìi cûúâi, moán haâo söëng àaä àûúåc mang túái. Moán nûúáng cuäng coá thïí laâ möåt lûåa choån nïëu baån muöën.

Khi ca syä nhaåc Rap cuãa Myä Ol Dirty Bastard viïët lúâi ca khuác "em yïu, anh thñch noá söëng", coá leä öng êëy àang noái àïën moán haâo úã söë 46 Cêìu Göî naây. Sau khi àûúåc lau rûãa, taách àöi ra vaâ lêëy ra khoãi voã, con soâ àûúåc mang lïn vúái möåt nùæp voã àaä múã, cuâng vúái möåt miïëng chanh tûúi vaâ möåt baát gia võ úát chanh. Sau möåt vaâi thao taác vúái chiïëc dôa nhoã xñu, con haâo àûúåc lêëy ra caã con, caãm giaác ïm dõu tröi tuöåt vaâo cöí hoång chuáng töi, àïí laåi möåt chuát nûúác saánh soát

töët cho nhûäng ngûúâi yïu nhau nhûäng ai thñch ùn noá söëng.

Viïët búãi Kaitlin Rees.

Hònh aãnh búãi Dominic Blewett laåi úã voã vaâ caãm giaác theâm ùn thïm nûäa. Mùåc duâ haâo úã àêy thiïëu möåt chuát võ mùån úã nhûäng con haâo vûâa àûúåc àaánh bùæt tûâ biïín, nhûng võ mïìm mûúåt cuãa noá vêîn àoång laåi. Giaá möåt con nhû vêåy laâ 25.000 VND. Chïë biïën nûúáng thûúâng coá khaã nùng laâm mêët ài võ thanh nhaä cuãa con haâo, àùåc biïåt àöëi vúái nhûäng ai coá triïët lyá laâ "laâm bêët cûá thûá gò khaác ngoaâi viïåc ùn haâo vúái möåt chuát chanh vùæt àïìu laâ phaåm töåi", ngûúâi baån Thûá Nhêët cuãa töi noái. Tuy nhiïn, vúái muåc àñch tòm hiïíu, vúái giaá möåt con haâo nûúáng laâ 30.000VND thò cuäng àaáng àïí thûã. Moán haâo nûúáng àûúåc mang ra noáng höíi vaâ phuã möåt lúáp haânh chiïn vúái trûáng, thoaåt nhòn tûúãng pho mai. Nhûng noá khöng phaãi laâ pho mai. Tuy nhiïn, "noá coá thïí laâ bêët cûá thûá gò”, ngûúâi baån luác naäy cuãa töi than vaän, mong muöën àûúåc ùn thïm moán haâo söëng vêîn coân chuát nhúân nhúân.

Töëng Duy Tên laâ möåt àiïím àïën coá thïí dûå àoaán àûúåc cho bêët cûá khi naâo baån cêìn tòm àöì ùn. Tuy nhiïn, söë 30 mang laåi möåt caãm giaác khaác laå trïn con phöë quen thuöåc naây – noá khöng chó coá nhûäng moán ùn nheå khi baån dûâng chên sau nhûäng cuöåc cheâ cheán say sûa. Mùåc duâ soâ huyïët laâ moán giaânh àûúåc vûúng miïån úã àêy, nhûng moán haâo cuäng baám theo saát nuát.

Moán haâo àûúåc mang ra trïn möåt lúáp àaá baâo, möåt phong caách êën tûúång vaâ khaá laånh.

Nhûäng miïëng chanh tûúi vaâ baát gia võ pha lêîn höîn húåp muöëi, tiïu, úát, möåt chuát myâ chñnh vaâ chanh vùæt àûúåc mang keâm theo vúái nhûäng con hoùåc haâo àaä boã möåt nûãa voã. Giaá möåt con laâ 20.000VND. Baån cêìn phaãi cêåy con haâo lïn möåt chuát àïí taách noá hoaân toaân ra khoãi lúáp voã nhûng sau àoá con haâo coá thïí àûúåc huáp suåp vaâo möåt caách dïî daâng. Ðöëi vúái möåt söë ngûúâi, lúáp àaá úã ngoaâi coá thïí laâm tùng võ maát laånh trong cöí hoång, àöëi vúái möåt söë ngûúâi khaác, àoá laâ möåt caách khaác àïí laâm àoång laåi hûúng võ beáo ngêåy tûå nhiïn cuãa con haâo.

Nhûäng con haâo nûúáng àûúåc baây biïån àeåp mùæt theo àôa cho tûâng ngûúâi. Nhûäng miïëng haâo muäm môm dêëu mònh dûúái möåt lúáp haânh vaâ rau thúm chiïn cuâng vúái möåt chuát dêìu vúái võ cay vaâ möåt quaã trûáng traáng. Coá veã laâ möåt töí húåp cuãa khaá nhiïìu thûá cuöån laåi sau lúáp voã chaáy xeám sau khi àaä àûúåc nûúáng. Nhûng baån cuäng nïn cêín thêån àïí khöng phaãi cùæn phaãi voã khi ùn nheá. Vò coá mang theo möåt caái buát vaâ möåt mêíu giêëy, töi may mùæn àûúåc àûa cho quaã trûáng traáng rêët àuáng mûác. Nhûäng ngûúâi baån cuãa töi keám may mùæn hún vaâ àûúåc mang àïën nhûäng quaã trûáng traáng quaá kyä. Ðêy quaã laâ möåt sûå kïët húåp rêët àa daång vïì hûúng võ, nhûng viïåc cöë gùæng àïí thûúãng thûác têët caã caác võ trong cuâng möåt miïëng laâm cho viïåc ùn haâo thêåt laâ thuá võ.

Mûa tiïëp tuåc rúi, chuáng töi àaä sûu têåp àuã cho mònh möåt böå voã haâo, caái daå dêìy lûng lûãng vaâ nhûäng chai bia uöëng dúã àaä doån àûúâng cho möåt töëi laäng maån – hoùåc möåt caái gò àoá tûúng tûå nhû thïë.

Möåt núi nûäa baån coá thïí thûúãng thûác moán naây laâ trïn phöë Haâng Lûúåc. Chuác baån tòm àûúåc àõa àiïím nhû yá nheá.

February 2012 The Word | 99

Ho Chi Minh City

TALKING SHOP

The Local Fixer

THE LOCAL FIXER / FOOD LOVER’S LANE / THE SOUND OF MUSIC

Scouting locations and procuring helicopters for movies and television shows are all in a day’s work for Trinh Tien Trung.

Words by Julian Ajello. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

T

he past decade has seen Vietnam’s international profile elevate right along with its economy and the number of people who visit each year. Among those taking notice are the myriad of TV shows in western countries who covet shooting in Vietnam for an array of subject matter ranging from cuisine to travel to motor vehicles. While these shows are eager to film here they are often unable to navigate the paperwork and logistics necessary to do so on their own.

Cue Trinh Tien Trung. As a local fixer, Trung helps foreign production companies traverse the obstacle course. Born in Halong City, Trung attended Hanoi Open University and studied to be a professional tour leader.

He spent five years studying and working in Hanoi for various travel companies specialising in adventure tours that included activities like cycling, kayaking and hiking.

Trung moved to Ho Chi Minh City in 2006 and opened up Le Pub, a popular watering hole in the Pham Ngu Lao area with two other partners: one Australian and one British. It was with that same organisation, who at the time was also involved in a media production company, that he cut his teeth working as a local fixer. After learning the ropes he struck out on his own and started his own company called Sen Travel.

Sen Travel works with foreign production companies to arrange working permits, visas, location scouting, logistics and travel.

“This business can be a bit like fishing,” explains Trung. “Sometimes you just sit there with nothing going on and then all of a sudden you have work lined up for months with no breaks.” Stacking up the chores of procuring visas and permits while also trying to scout locations and arrange travel is a time consuming process that often requires Trung to delegate some of the work.

It also requires integrity — when the stars come to Vietnam there is often immense local interest. One of Trung’s jobs is to prevent information from leaking on where celebrities are staying, what their filming

100 | The Word February 2012

schedule is and what locations are being used. Failure to keep the information under wraps can cause problems.

Sen Travel has some clients who are interested in making corporate and commercial videos, but the bulk of his clientele are western TV shows. Among them are Top Gear, BBC World News, Man vs Wild and many of Samantha Brown’s spots on the Travel Channel in the US as well as Dutch and Australian shows.

Depending on which story Trung recounts, he will drift from a slight chuckle to head shaking frustration. Among his favourite

“I’m always under tremendous pressure to help these productions meet their schedules while dealing with the bureaucracy of getting things done in Vietnam” recollections is an Australian production team who requested a helicopter for use the following day. It fell to Trung to explain that there was no earthly way to pull that off and that the complications of arranging permits would mean that inside of a week was the best for which they could hope.

The Bear Minimum Sometimes, however, the fault is not with the lofty expectations of foreign production companies used to working under more film-friendly conditions, but with his

preparations. The first time Trung was contracted to work with Man vs Wild he thought he was asked to make sure that there would be suitable food and water available in the jungle for a bear to survive on its own. Thinking that a bear was fully capable of finding suitable food he didn’t need to prepare much. Or so he thought. It wasn’t until the team arrived that he realised his mistake. The show’s star, Edward Michael Grylis, goes by the nickname Bear.

“With such a busy schedule I don’t always get to research a show as much as I would like to.”

For those who harbour dreams of breaking into the business and starting their own venture Trung offers some advice.

“Grow your list of contacts and travel extensively to get to know the country well.”

He also encourages aspiring fixers to carry a camera and take a photo of anything that might be useful for a TV show, even if it’s years down the road.

“Being a local fixer can be quite frustrating at times,” says Trung. “I’m always under tremendous pressure to help these productions meet their schedules while dealing with the bureaucracy of getting things done in Vietnam.”

Despite the frustrations Trung enjoys what he does. He gets to work with interesting people like Brown, Grylis and Gordon Ramsey. He was also involved in one of the most lauded programmes to come out of Vietnam in the past few years — the Top Gear Vietnam Special. Presented by Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond and James May, the three hosts drove from Saigon to Hanoi and then onto Halong Bay on a Minsk, a Honda Cub and a Piaggio Vespa.

While the footage and the final edit provided viewers with a unique insight into this country, by all accounts, putting the show together was a nightmare.

But this is all part of the job, and as Trung says, “What I love most about what I do is that I get to show Vietnam to the world.”

February 2012 The Word | 101

the skinny houses have to fit the alleys. The balconies of the apartments run along the tops of one alley only to be extended as another tenant’s roof on the other end. Staircases overlook entrances to even smaller alleys barely wide enough to fit a fat cat. An alley's alley? Is there even a phrase for that in English?

The kids kicking their plastic soccer ball around plus the old lady who clearly fell asleep doing calisthenics on a park exercise machine both added a nice touch to the sunny courtyard.

A Saigon Shakedown By this time, it was clear that this alley has got style. The xe oms almost completely ignored us and the guy selling clams at the end of one alley had a magnificent eagle tattoo emblazoned across his back. We headed down an even smaller passageway in the maze and found a large gallery of seashells hanging from the canopy of a fish hotpot restaurant. Mental note, check this place out later.

The odd winding lanes finally deposited us at another end of Nguyen Trai. The final sweet spot is a shop built right into a tree — man and nature coexisting in style.

Somehow we’d missed the seafood place and it was getting dark. Walking back into the labyrinth and taking a left where we should’ve taken a right, we came upon a whole new area. We were famished but were delighted by the discovery of another courtyard. This one was discrete, a few benches under the shade of a big tree that looked onto several business buildings in the distance.

Retracing our steps we finally fell upon Oc Dao 1 (Hem 212B, Nguyen Trai, Q1). How could we have missed this? It's packed to the teeth with loud seafood revellers. A good sign because empty eateries usually have mediocre food with good service while crowded restaurants have excellent food with terrible service.

We squatted on small stools and ordered everything on the menu while chatting with the servers and inviting strangers to join us.

Apparently the chubby lady running the show first came to the big city over 15 years ago impoverished but found a way to fund the seafood shop by collecting garbage. A true rags to riches tale, and the final story that makes this alley come alive.

ALLEY TALK

Food Lover’s Lane When exploring hems ditch the bike, your feet are the only way to go. Minh Do hits the maze-like Alley 285 in search of a mythical seafood joint. Photos by EJ Chung

T

here have been verbal rumblings recently about a great seafood spot called Oc Dao nestled somewhere between “that alley over there” and District 1. So, with these vague directions in mind, we apprehensively headed over.

We started the search on what is the only entrance to the alley on 285 Nguyen Trai in District 1. Just minutes after entering the hem we were enveloped by hordes of napping hairdressers waiting to catch a stray lady in need of a hair wash and manicure. Oddly enough, a series of dog meat restaurants lined the same alley,

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along with an inconspicuous, hideawaystyle tennis court.

It’s a common theory that alleyways are usually good shortcut options when the main streets are congested from bumper to bumper, but beware most hems in Vietnam aren't alleys; they’re more like mazes. You start on the edge of one street and run the risk of ending up in a completely different district. An entire block can host vibrant arteries full of underemployed middle-aged men playing chess and plump noodle ladies. We were hoping this wasn’t going to be the case for us, and prayed

we wouldn’t end up in District 12. We continued on, subtly avoiding the thit cho eateries. Through twists and turns, it's clear this is food lover’s lane — banh xeo (Vietnamese pancake), bo bia (rice paper rolls with daikon and sausage), banh mi (sandwiches), hai san (seafood) and bot chien (fried flour squares stir fried with scallion and eggs). The vendors and carts are aplenty.

It wasn’t long before we stumbled upon a courtyard framed by two apartment buildings. Here, the makeshift architecture is built to perfection. In a city bubbling with over 10 million souls,

February 2012 The Word | 103

HBSO Tentative Spring/Summer 2012 Programme Jan. 9: Part I: Chamber Concert Ludwig van Beethoven Sonata for cello and piano in C Major Cello: Joo Hye Young Piano: Joo Eun Young Cesare Franck Sonata for violin and piano in A Major Violin: Tang Thanh Nam Piano: Joo Eun Young Sergei Prokofiev Sextet Overture on Hebrew Theme, op.34 Clarinet: Nguyen Tuan Loc Vio lin I: Tang Thanh Nam Violin II: Le Minh Hien Viola: Bui Anh Son Cello: Joo Hye Young Piano: Joo Eun Young Part II: Artur Sullivan H.M.S Pinafore HBSO Opera Chorusmaster: Ly Giai Hoa Mar. 9: Part I: Reinecke Flute Concerto Flute: Hyun Joo Ro Giacomo Puccini Soprano: Cho Hae Ryong Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart Soprano: Cho Hae Ryong Clarinet: Dao Nhat Quang Part II: Ludwig van Beethoven Symphony No.5 HBSO Symphony Orchestra Conductor: Nguyen Anh Son

SOUND & VISION

THE SOUND OF MUSIC The live music scene isn’t limited to pop cover bands and DJs. At the Saigon Opera House is a symphony of talented musicians waiting to be heard. Words by Jonathan Rebours. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

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t’s hard to escape the growing onslaught of K-Pop, Vietnamese ballads and western tunes in this metropolis. However, the Ho Chi Minh City Ballet and Symphony Orchestra (HBSO) remains a prominent influence in challenging the all conquering influences of Euro-pop. In the process it is bringing more refined musical delights to listeners.

From its grand home at the Saigon Opera House, the HBSO runs two seasons annually, hosting its own shows and visiting artists throughout each. Last year saw impressive eclectic performances ranging from Mozart orchestral symphonies through to Columbian folk songs.

Still unfinalised at the time of print, the programme for 2012 is equally as interesting. Staying true to classics such as Mozart, Beethoven and Brahms on Mar. 9 and featuring a contemporary dance performance on Apr. 9, the HBSO is continuing to push all aspects of academic arts.

In May, a showing of the opera Dido and Aeneas will be held in cooperation with a Norwegian arts group, two very different

104 | The Word February 2012

cultures merging to produce one spectacular show. The culmination of a jam packed spring-summer schedule will be Dialogue 2012, a contemporary performance of dance and music written exclusively

by Vietnamese talent. .

Mr Thach’s Opus

It is through this beautiful combination of dance and music that they invite audiences “to marvel at the young talents in academic arts,” states Tran Vuong Thach, the director of the HBSO. A gifted conductor who studied in Belgium for six years honing his technique, he joined the HBSO in 1996, a couple of years after its inception. A welcoming gentleman with a broad smile he oversees the entire company, all 116 members. They have a team of managing staff and a host of dedicated performers who relish the opportunity to partake in this relentless schedule.

Holding, at the very least, two performances every month, with a slight break in January and February, the company has managed to make an impact on Saigon's entertainment and arts scene.

“Our constant presence has enabled us to become a regular fixture on the scene,” he says. Thach believes that without hard work they would not nearly be as successful as they are.

They have even travelled to neighbouring provinces when invited by either private companies, such as their recent invitation to Vung Tau by a petroleum company, or by the local authorities wishing to experience the spectacle of the HBSO. Though the task of moving over a hundred performers is not without its challenges.

On a visit to Dalat, Thach recalls having seven full buses transporting the excitable but nervous company. Traversing those mountain roads is harrowing enough, but with a convoy of huge buses full of equipment and fragile instruments it proved to be a funny yet exhausting experience.

“You must organise all the performers first, which with as many as we have is not an easy task, and then you must pack away all of the equipment and make sure it gets to the destination safely. Not easy,” he asserts, shaking his head and wagging his finger.

An exciting future event is the Melody of Youth programme. Held on the 29th of every month last year from May to December, and looking to resume in 2012, these concerts were established to “introduce and popularise the academic art to young audiences”. Admission was free and the concerts were packed, yet it seems regular paying audiences are still mostly over 30.

With such an important scene established from the hard work of the past 17 years, the HBSO continues to look to the future and is always working to perform exciting and inspiring pieces, showcasing the best of Vietnamese and foreign talent. The 2012 schedule is shaping up to be another huge one for the company and one that would be a shame to miss.

With Thach now semi-reluctantly laying down his baton to make way for the new wave of young talent such as young conductor Nguyen Anh Son, he still finds inspiration all around him.

“Ho Chi Minh City has a vivid socio-economic landscape that always translates into the music, and for that we are incredibly grateful to be here,” he concludes.

Apr. 9: Part I: Chamber Concert Franz Liszt Hungarian Rhapsodie No.6 Piano: Joo Eun Young Ludwig van Beethoven Trio in B flat, op.11 for clarinet, cello & piano Clarinet: Dao Nhat Quang Cello: NSUT Nguyen Tan Anh Piano: Joo Eun Young Johannes Brahms Sonata No.3 for violin & piano (III & IV mov.)

Violin: NSND Ta Bon Piano: Ly Giai Hoa George Gershwin An American in Paris (for 2 pianos) Piano I: Ly Giai Hoa Piano II: Ly Giai Nien Part II: Contemporary Dance Script: Nguyen Phuc Hai, Nguyen Phuc Hung Music: Vu Viet Anh, Nguyen Manh Duy Linh May 9: Henry Purcell Opera Dido and Aeneas (Semi staged) An artistic cooperation with Transposition — Norway HBSO Soloists, Choir and Orchestra.

Vocal coach: Siri Terjesen (Norway) Chorus Master: Ly Giai Hoa Jun. 9 Part I: Chamber Concert The Aspects Of Love HBSO Opera & Symphony Orchestra Conductor: Ly Giai Hoa Part II: Ballet Carmen (Bizet — Shchedrin) HBSO Ballet Jul. 7: Mendelssohn Violin concerto Conductor: Colin Metters Violin: Bui Cong Duy Contemporary Performance DIALOGUE 2012 Script: Nguyen Phuc Hai, Nguyen Phuc Hung Music: Vu Viet Anh, Nguyen Manh Duy Linh

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Ho Chi Minh City

LISTINGS

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 106 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 106 RESTAURANT - FRENCH 106 RESTAURANT - INDIAN 106 RESTAURANT - INTERNATIONAL 106

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am.

Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

APOCALYPSE NOW

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

RESTAURANT - ITALIAN 107 RESTAURANT - SOUTHEAST ASIAN 107 RESTAURANT - VIETNAMESE 108 RESOBARS 108 It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

LAVISH

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices.

However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music.

Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

LUSH

CLOUD 9

EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

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PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

VASCO’S

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RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

MID-RANGE TAN HAI VAN

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best–known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET THE PUNJABI

NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s self-made tandoor oven.

Excellent.

MID TO TOP

MID-RANGE

KABIN

GANESH

SZECHUAN / CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID TO TOP TY COZ

CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa.

And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

TOP-END LA CAMARGUE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay.

Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 29B Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Decidedly intimate, this whitewashed, open-kitchened, 22-seater restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list – 75 at present count – and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams.

Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

MUMTAZ

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

TANDOOR

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bob Dylan on the sound system.

Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

MID-RANGE AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1. Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor.

Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 1720 www.berniesbar.com 7.30am to 11pm daily Famed for its Australian-style burgers served up with pickled beetroot and fried egg, the two-storey, bistro-style Bernie’s is much more than a burger joint. Boasting comfort food-style mains ranging from steaks, grills and pizzas through to pasta, sandwiches, salads and panini, this venue also has a Vietnamese food menu. Live music enters proceedings on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays and space is also available for private functions.

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SUBWAY

171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1. Tel: 3836 4497 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere.

Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with

eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

MID TO TOP FLOW SAIGON

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1. Tel: 3915 3691 www.flowsaigon.com 7.30am to midnight, Monday to Friday.

10am to midnight, Saturday. 10am to 3.30pm, Sunday Opening up onto an enormous first floor dining area with an outdoor terrace to boot, this black and white, artwork-clad space with touches of deep red is one of the latest international styled restaurants to descend on Saigon. Excellent service, an extensive wine menu and modern fusion European cuisine all combine to make this a great place for a quality meal.

Also puts on events and film screenings.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

PASHA

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TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

SKEWERS

rary international–style grill and modern European fare with sushi and sashimi.

THE DECK

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm.

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN MID-RANGE PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 8181 www.pendolasco-restaurantvietnam.com 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

MID TO TOP LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful,

rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO

PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House.

The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni.

This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN BUDGET CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

TOP-END SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN / SASHIMI 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and sushi bar, as wells as a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city makes up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space.

The excellent food menu mixes contempo-

February 2012 The Word | 107

MID-RANGE LION CITY

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SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic five-storey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A

BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1 Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

VIET CHAY

BUDDHIST VEGETARIAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3848 3399 7am to 9.30pm If you’re into Buddhist-style vegetarian cuisine and aren’t put off by faux meat, the offerings at Viet Chay are among the best in town. Set in the grounds of the city’s largest pagoda, the joint, hygienic indoor, outdoor space is the setting for dishes like tuna made out of bean curd and pork ribs constructed out of tofu.

Sounds odd but tastes great and prices are cheap, too.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

CUC GACH QUAN

MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

108 | The Word February 2012

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

Also runs separate cooking classes.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt.

Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

RESTOBARS ALA MEZON

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10 Chu Minh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6291 0447 alamezon.vn@gmail.com 11.30am to 1am A restobar where France meets Japan, this innovative and bold four-floor venue mixes Gallic flair with all the nuances of the Land of the Rising Sun. With lime green in the stairwells, maroon on the ground floor and orange moving up to the subtly lit top-floor terrace, the bar areas and dining spaces are complemented by two games rooms for playing board games, Wii and X-Box. The menu encompasses the same eclectic mix, with ika kappa maki sitting next to baked clams gratinee and beef carpaccio. A bit of something for everyone.

ALIBI

INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

CEPAGE

LOUNGE BAR / INTERNATIONAL Lancaster Building, 22 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8733 www.cepage.biz 8am to 12pm. Sunday 5pm to 12pm When the plush but chic Cepage opened its doors, its décor and concept caused a stir thanks to its lounge-style seating, eye-catching subtly lit bar area, upstairs restaurant and glass-fronted wine cellar.

Then there was the international, Japanese-influenced food menu, put together

by German Andreas Ertle, one of the city’s best chefs. More than three years on this comfortable but well-priced restobar still hits the spot, and also boasts one of the most creative cocktail lists in town. Check out their black box lunchtime deal.

HARD ROCK CAFÉ

AMERICAN / LIVE MUSIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6291 7595 www.hardrockcafe.vn 11am to midnight The rock memorabilia, cowboy-like, rockcentred American food menu and branded décor at the Saigon version of this international branded café provide for one of the city’s few, medium capacity downtown music venues. The nightly live music is accompanied by a pricey (for Saigon) food menu that includes burgers, hickorysmoked BBQ ribs, fajitas, sandwiches and salads. Puts on regular events – check their website for details.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own.

Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

LE PUB

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

O BRIEN’S

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IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups.

Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PACHARAN

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded

reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

PHATTY’S

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46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere.

Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

SANDALS

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MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 93 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 5198 www.sailingclubvietnam.com 7am to 12am Creative, international-influenced Mediterranean cuisine is the focus at this airy, Buddha-inspired, sandalwood coloured restobar that is part of the Sailing Club chain in Mui Ne and Nha Trang. With a downstairs bar area, two floors of dining space and an upstairs terrace-cum-lounge bar, Sandals provides a pleasant, more laid back alternative to the standard nightlife and dining scene in downtown Saigon. Has a range of specials and happy hours on offer.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

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17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

ZANZBAR

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 info@saigongourmetgroup 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, a laid back atmosphere and a conversation-friendly bar area mix with a dining space out back and international fusion cuisine to make this one of downtown’s go-to destinations. Running the gamut from sake ‘n’ harissa marinated cod through to torchon of lamb, chicken souvlaki, a lemon pepper salmon salad, a chimichurri burger and a range of enticing desserts, the cuisine here is top-notch and the presentation excellent.

The Final Say BURSTING WITH BUBBLY / PHOTO OF THE MONTH / TRIVIA BUFF ILLUSTRATION BY VINCENT BERTHOLON

THE FINAL SAY

Bursting with Bubbly The language of love is often expressed with a glass of bubbly but Champagne is starting to take off in Vietnam as a symbol of success, too. Words by Nick Ross. Illustration by Vincent Bertholon

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ne of the best selling wines in this country is the Torley Hungarian Charmant Rose. Poured onto a pyramid of margarita-style glasses, it trickles down the vessels and begins to steam with the help of dryice substitutes. Under the spotlights — for the wedding-goers impressed by glitz and bling — the effect of this Champagnestyle drink is sparkling. It’s a scene typical of such functions the length and breadth of Vietnam.

That this sweet wine is only drunk by the bride, groom and perhaps the heads of the family, is lost on everyone. There is a greater, more important significance at work. It’s the sparkle effect, the concept of drinking wine with bubbles at celebrations, particularly when love is involved. More ironic is the name given to the wine. It’s not a Champagne because it’s not a blend of three varietals only produced in Champagne, a province of northeast France. And Champagne, as we are constantly told, is fermented in the bottle while most sparkling variations are fermented in the barrel.

Not that this matters to revelers in Vietnam. The same goes for cava, prosecco, Hungarian pezsgo, German sekt and all other variations of wine with bubbles. If it sparkles, in Vietnam it gets branded Champagne.

Let the Good Times Role It’s of little surprise that Champagne — the real version — is taking off here. There is a wealthy elite for whom money, except for the process of gaining it, is of little object. Then there are the 200,000 or so non-Vietnamese passport holders living in this country. For a large number of this population, drinking Champagne is part of the culture. Even the importers have seen the results.

According to Nicolas Delion of Champagne brand Taittinger, Vietnam is presently one of the biggest growth markets in the world for Champagne. From August 2010 to August 2011, shipments of bubbly increased by 130 percent.

“Vietnamese are now perceiving the luxury celebration aspect of Champagne,” says Nicolas. “On occasions such as openings, fashion shows and, increasingly, birthdays and weddings, they are opting more and more for Champagne as the drink of choice.”

Restaurateur Donald Berger has noticed a similar trend.

“I am seeing more Vietnamese ordering top-end Champagnes, and not so much the non-vintage,” he explains.

“Interestingly, I am seeing mostly Vietnamese men order Champagne, and this is a new phenomena. Before the Vietnamese did not like the effervescence of sparkling wine much at all.”

110 | The Word February 2012

Conversely, says Donald, his non-Vietnamese customers are drinking more cava. This, he believes, is a sign of recession and a worried economy.

“People still want to drink but are balking at spending money the way they used to. Even our [biggest spenders] are checking prices carefully before they order.”

To the Top The rise in Champagne sales says much about the Vietnam of today. From the outside looking in, this is a successful economy. National GDP growth last year was 5.89 percent, with Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City hitting even higher. And with wealth in this country comes status. There’s no better way to express your standing than by having a vintage whiskey or a bottle of top-end Champagne sitting on your table.

“Paying a high price for a bottle of Champagne is a symbol of personal accomplishment,” says Wilfried Bourceau from Warehouse. “So when people celebrate or want to impress, they purchase a bottle that reflects their success.”

Saigon-based wine distributer Jim Cawood of Vino adds: “Drinking Champagne says ‘I have made it’… That is no different in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong or LA. “Young Vietnamese people, particularly women, are starting to have more disposable income,” says Jim. “They don't want to drink whiskey or Cognac, but want to be able to go out and show that they to have money and are sophisticated. So they pitch for Champagne.”

Another attraction of course is the romance. There is something about the buzz of having a few glasses of Champagne, about the shape of the glass, fineness of the bubbles and the creaminess of the palate. And the aroma — toast, nuts and stone fruits. It is no surprise that scores of historical figures have waxed lyrical about their favourite drink.

“I drink Champagne when I win, to celebrate… and I drink Champagne when I lose, to console myself,” said Napoleon Bonaparte, while British playwright and director Noel Coward asked, “Why do I drink Champagne for breakfast?

Doesn't everyone?” And even novelist Mark Twain pitched in: “Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right.”

Whether the guests at weddings will be saying the same after watching the Torley Rose fountain at work is doubtful.

But what is clear is that good times or bad, Champagne is making headway into this country — not just as a celebratory drink, but as a symbol of success and a daily tipple of choice.

February 2012 The Word | 111

BY

KIERRON PEACHEY

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{TRIVIA BUFF family guy mania }

Answers on page 3

1) What did Peter first experience when he was 30?

12) What lives in Chris' closet?

2) How old is Brian?

13) What name did KISS give Lois?

3) What is Quagmire's full name?

14) Which members have had liposuction?

4) What is the bartender’s name at the pub that Peter goes to?

15) With Peter's welfare money what does he buy that surrounds his house?

5) True or False: The mascot for Quahog is a clam.

6) What is the name of the KISS concert that Peter and Lois go to?

7) What is the name of Peter's boat that he buys at an auction?

8) What is the name of the fish that Peter, Joe, Quagmire and Cleveland go hunting for?

9) What is the name of the pub that Peter makes in his basement?

10) Peter's spiritual guide is The Fonz: True or False?

11) Why does Peter have to replace Death?

112 | The Word February 2012

16) What does Peter promise Meg if she takes the blame for the cable crash?

17) When Peter becomes president of the school council, what does he get to patrol the hallways?

18) What becomes a illegal drug that school kids take?

19) When Brian joins the police force what does he do?

20) What is the name of the place that Stewie was supposed to have his first birthday party at?