The Word Ho Chi Minh City January 2012

ChuyêN Đề du LịCh, ẩm thựC ho ChI mINh CIty EdItIoN JaNuaRy 2012

Nhà Xuất BảN Lao ĐộNg

Contents

wordhcmc.com

January 2012

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FEATURES 006 l The Prelude THE TALK 009 l The Big Five 010 l Just In 018 l In the Papers 022 l Word of Mouth 028 l Calendar 030 l Overscene INSIDER

042 A

RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

Find out how the Saigon River plays a part in the lives of the city's people

036 CROSSTOWN

A video about Saigon's traffic goes viral and receives international fame.

Here's the low down

052 THE

040 l Alley Talk

There's more than just passsing ships at Nha Rong port

082 l Destination Zero

Lesser known Lao Cai is a great pit stop on the way to Sapa

086 l Travel Promos

2 | The Word January 2012

OTHER HONG KONG

Get the insider’s guide for places to see and things to do in one of the most popular Asian destinations

056 LET'S

TALK ABOUT TET, BABY

With a new moon dawning and the city about to shut down, follow our Tet survival guide to make sure you have an auspicious new year

060 MYSTERY

DINER

Japanese sweets connoisseur MOF, and Asian-European restaurant Flow are up for review this month

034 l Trash Uncle

Read an award-winning story about a volunteer’s work rummaging through garbage

TRAFFIC

062 GROUND

ZERO

The founder of multimedia art space, ZeroStation, talks about his mission to create dialogue and expand the arts scene in Saigon

064 IT’S

GOOD TO TALK

We speak to Saigon Creative’s head honchos about the inspiration behind their monthly morning chats

COLUMNS 108 l Road Rules 110 l Decks 'n Drums 111 l In the Frame CITY GUIDE TIENG VIET HANOI 134 l Classic Car Collector

This man loves his four wheels

136 l Q&A: Dengue Fever

The band talks about their time playing in Vietnam

FINAL SAY 148 l Ethnically Urban

Trivia Buff Answers See p151 for the original puzzle 1) Manager of the Spice Girls 2) Buddhism 3) Dame Kiri Te Kanawa 4) Japan 5) Penny Junor 6) Moonlight Shadow 7) Acoustics 8) Cornwall 9) Guinea Pigs 10) The Corrs 11) Mushroom 12) Chelsea 13) Shoes 14) George W Bush 15) Backstreet Boys 16) Advance Australia Fair 17) A Gimlet 18) Nottingham 19) Hamm 20) I Feel For You

Black and white are no longer colours to get people talking

152 l On the Stool Elisa Bui takes time out to chat about fashion and life in Saigon

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

CHRISTINE VAN

Senior Staff Photographer quinn@wordhcmc.com

Managing Editor christine@wordhcmc.com

EJ CHUNG

JOHN THORNTON

Staff Photographer ej@wordhcmc.com

deputy Editor john@wordhcmc.com

MARK ALLAN

PAOLO MALING

Website Developer mark@wordhcmc.com

art director paolo@wordhcmc.com

JAMES ALLEN

NGUYEN TAN LOC

Online Editor & Features Writer james@wordhcmc.com

Layout designer loc@wordhcmc.com

NICK ROSS

VU HA KIM VY

Chief Editor & Deputy Director nick@wordhcmc.com

Staff Reporter kimvy@wordhcmc.com

ADMINISTRATION LE DANG PHUONG TRANG

DUONG VY BAO

General Director bao@wordhcmc.com bao@wordhanoi.com

Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

ADVERTISING DUONG THI THANH XUAN

NGUYEN THUC DOAN HIEN

Sales manager xuan@wordhcmc.com

graphic designer hien@wordhcmc.com

HUYNH QUANG HAU

VU MINH TRI

advert designer artwork@wordhcmc.com

Sales Executive sales@wordhcmc.com

DISTRIBUTION

SUBSCRIPTIONS

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distribution@wordhcmc.com

For advertising enquiries please call Xuan on +84 1227 055122 or Bao on +84 902 361561 Special thanks to — Charlie Barnes, Jonathan Rebours, Stephanie Cantrell, Lyra Dacio and Ian Fogg from Saigon River Express for their contributions to this issue G S

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Crossword Answers See p150 for the original puzzle. Pluzzle by Frank A. Longo Edited by Will Shortz

© Word - duong huynh advertising JSC

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Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners.

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© tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của ấn phẩm Word (ho Chi minh city và haNoi) của C.ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở hữu trí tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng hòa Xã hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

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January 2012 The Word | 5

The Prelude I

n a bustling city such as Saigon, where its urban innards act as an oversized and sensory-overload theme park, an oft dismissed and underestimated facet is its river.

Disregarded by many as no more than an underdeveloped, putrid and increasingly polluted blight on the face of a metropolis obsessed with beauty, it’s fair to say the Saigon River’s public reputation is out of sync with the status quo.

And sure, while you’d never want to go swimming in it — though we know some people do — one can’t help feel that poor old Song

Sai Gon (Saigon River), once the proud epicentre of this city’s trade and commerce, has taken enough of a beating. So, this month we head out and explore this great river, our journey taking us from the river’s source to the point where it spills into the sea. What we discover may just alter your opinion of this beleaguered waterway, if ever so slightly.

Elsewhere, we chat with Rob Whitworth, the Hoi Anbased British photographer who briefly turned the world’s gaze on Saigon last month thanks to his impressive Frenetic Traffic HCMC time-lapse video; offer a guide to the ins and

InBOX

outs of the upcoming Tet holiday, and get a glimpse into the DIY creative scene with Saigon Creative and ZeroStation.

Finally, you may have noticed some changes to our publication. To go with this brand spanking New Year, we’ve introduced a new logo and layout that we hope feels fresher, more current and in tune with what a city guide of this ilk should actually be. It’s still the same Word you’ve always loved (or hated), we’ve just given it a makeover.

Feel free to let us know what you think by sending your comments to christine@ wordhcmc.com.

ChuyêN Đề du LịCh, ẩm thựC ho ChI mINh CIty EdItIoN JaNuaRy 2012

Nhà Xuất BảN Lao ĐộNg

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo: Quinn Ryan Mattingly Design: DH Advertising

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL CHRISTINE AT christine@wordhcmc.com

INSPIRED

(Destination Zero, Dec. 2011) Hello, to start off, my name is Danice Abril. I'm a 16-year-old Filipino student, a school reporter as well from International School of Ho Chi Minh City. I recently read your article entitled Manila Moments. First of all, I want to say that it was an amazing article, to the point that I was willing to read and walk from the Crescent Mall (where I got the magazine from) to my house (Crescent 3). It was funny yet professional at the same time. No words to describe it actually. Second, a good way to promote the country as well. Lastly, as an aspiring journalist these kinds of articles really pump me up for the future. It was short and some people might say lacking of other things, but I say it was direct and the writer really delivered the essence of the country. I like the register of the writer as well it became more believable when she used "I" and words that aren't supposed to be in serious articles therefore it shows that it's all from her perspective.

I love the article — that's what I said to my mom right after finishing it. I also told her that I am going to email whoever's in charge of it to show my appreciation and here I am now. I rarely read articles because they're boring but this one really caught my eye, quite an achievement actually.

To wrap this all up, please keep up with these kinds of articles, they really are very enjoyable to read everywhere. It's very inspiring too, to youths like me who are still confused whether to pursue a writing career. This article really locked my decision to become a writer. Please send my regards to the writer herself as well! Keep up the great issues! — Danice Abril

CorreCtion (Time for Tea, Dec. 2011) My email was listed incorrectly as surgery@operationteavietnam. com however I would prefer that people email me at 'sergey' rather than 'surgery' in the future.

— Sergey 6 | The Word January 2012

inner StirringS

(Best Events, Dec. 2011) Thank you so much for your wonderful review of The Importance of Being Earnest in the December edition. Dragonfly Theatre Company is very happy to have got your "inner theatre goers stirring"!

There is just one amendment to note. Unfortunately due to health issues, Dinh Ngoc Diep was unable to perform. The part of Cecily Cardew was played tremendously by Nguyen Ha Tu Trinh.

We were delighted at the response from the audience and media and are very excited about putting on our next performance in 2012. We are looking forward to the continued support of our audience for this new venture. More details in the New Year.

— All at Dragonfly

January 2012 The Word | 7

The Talk

thE BIg 5 / Just In / thE Buzz / calEndar / OvErscEnE

Take Responsibility Without a proper safety net, living in Vietnam can be dangerous

F

igures vary dramatically, but according to the least conservative estimates, over 30,000 people die each year on Vietnam's roads. It's a huge figure and difficult to verify, but what is clear is that almost every family in this country has either lost someone to the roads or had at least one member seriously injured. This writer, himself, had a very lucky escape last month and was lucky to walk away with no more than scrapes and stitches to the head.

The problem is that living in Vietnam we rely too much on providence. Motorbike helmets are mostly worn because failure to do so will mean a fine, and like the folly of youth, when we tackle the roads in this country many of us still think we are invincible. We are not.

Nine Lives Nine is a lucky number in Vietnam and in this writer's little tragedy, nine quickly became an eight. When the truck pulled out onto the road without looking, disaster was inevitable. Somehow the vehicle was avoided and skidding out of its line, this writer hit the tarmac, head first. The helmet saved his life. Fortunately, help was at hand. A friend was on the motorbike behind and the people living on the street nearby quickly helped with bandaging up the wound. It was yet another lucky break. If the accident had happened in the countryside, this writer may have been in trouble. Nine became seven.

After the accident another problem arose.

When this writer got to Hanoi for a second check up and X-rays, all medical bills had to be paid in cash. By the terms of his insurance, medivac — emergency evacuation — would have been covered, as would most treatment at Saigon‘s FV Hospital. But stuck in the north of Vietnam, everything had to be paid for in cash. Fortunately the fees were small. If the accident had been serious, the cost could have been extortionate.

8 | The Word January 2012

Look After Yourself The purpose of this piece is not to sell insurance. We can leave that to the likes of agencies such as IF Consulting or to the individual insurance companies. It's to talk about what can happen if you don't take responsibility for yourself in Vietnam. There is no national health service in this country, so the safety net for anyone who falls through the cracks is zero. Too many of us with the means to keep ourselves covered forget this. And driving without a motorbike license can, in many cases, mean that you are not insured.

Swedish long-term resident of Ho Chi Minh City, Nicklas Carlsson, has had first-hand experience of insurance policies saving his life. What was initially thought to be a kidney disease in 2007 turned out to be a rare blood disorder, HUS. Affecting only one in a million people, the mortality rate for non-treatment is 96 percent. Nicklas was fortunate. He was quickly evacuated to Bumrungrad in Bangkok and through a process of trial, error and extensive testing, his doctor there worked out what the problem was. Without the insurance paying for both treatment and evacuation, he would have almost certainly died — in the four years since he first became ill his medical costs have totaled over US$1 million.

Fortune Favours…

Even more fortunate for Nicklas was the nature of the insurance policy that he first took out with Aetna in 2005. When he became ill he was covered for chronic diseases, which meant that all ongoing treatment for HUS was paid for — Soliris, the drug used to treat HUS, is the most expensive in the world costing VND10 billion a year. The policy he used also had a renewal guarantee, which

meant the insurance company couldn’t just turn him out onto the streets, despite the costs to themselves. In addition it had a guaranteed premium — insurance companies often try to increase the premium after a claimant has had an accident or an illness. And he had a high yearly insurance limit for medical fees. If it had have been VND1 billion or VND2 billion, he may have been struck with a huge bill.

As Nicklas says, “If you’ve got good international insurance, there’s no bargaining.

You’re given everything you need.”

It’s important to take a leaf out of Nicklas’s impressive book. No matter how we kid ourselves, we’re not invincible. We have no national health service safety net. And one day, it could be us, too. If your life matters to you, be responsible, especially in a country where getting around day by day can be a huge risk.

THE

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So it’s come early this year and messed up many a business schedule, causing malaise and high levels of panic in equal measure, but deep down the prospect of another week off so soon after Christmas can’t be sniffed at.

And whether you’re staying in town to take advantage of the city at its most peaceful, trekking through the Philippines, tubing in Laos or lounging on a beach in Bali, just remember to say a fond chuc mung nam moi to all around, especially if you’re not Vietnamese (you bunch of bandwagon jumpers!).

thIngs tO watch Out fOr thIs mOnth

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MADAGUI TROPHY 2012

The fifth edition of the Madagui Trophy, scheduled to take place on Feb. 25 and Feb. 26, is now open for registration.

Organised by adventure tour operator Viet Adventure and held in and around Cat Tien National Park in Lam Dong Province, the triathlon-style team competition that takes in the jungle and consists of running, mountain biking and river swimming. Teams of two must complete the two-day endurance race together and travel for the duration of the event as a cohesive unit.

The event offers multiple levels of difficulty, beginning with the “Adventure” for novices, followed by “Extreme” for advanced competitors and the “Ultra”, which is billed as the ultimate jungle race for the more adventurous with a night-time departure.

Visit www.vietadventure.vn to fill out a registration form and claim your spot before the competition fills up.

VIETJETAIR ENTERS VIETNAM AVIATION MARKET

After months of speculation, low-cost carrier VietJetAir has finally started flights within Vietnam.

With four daily flights between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, VietJet comes into the market as the fourth airline in Vietnam. It will be the first private carrier in this country to fly domestic and international routes — flights to Da Nang will commence in early 2012 and routes between Vietnam and the rest of Asia will be launched around the middle of next year. According to the airline, overseas destinations soon to be available will include Macau, Singapore, Hong Kong and various locations in Japan, China and South Korea. To aid this expansion, the carrier hopes to increase its fleet of three newly purchased Airbus A320 aircraft to 12 vessels by October 2014.

As well as the main booking offices in Hanoi (HD Bank, 32 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem) and Ho Chi Minh City (8 Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3), 200 agencies around the country will sell VietJetAir tickets and flights can also be booked online at www.vietjetair.com or by calling their hotline — 1900 1886. Flights start at VND900,000 for a one-way trip between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.

TET

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SAIGON FLEA MARKET

The next Saigon Flea Market will take place at International School Saigon Pearl (92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh) from 2pm to 9pm on Jan. 13.

Attracting up to 1,000 visitors every second Sunday of the month, Saigon Flea Market’s potential treasures include an eclectic selection of reproduction goods, collectable art, vintage clothing, retro collectables, toys, homewares, handmade odds and sods, and accessories.

For more information, visit www.saigonflemarket.com

THE WHOPPER HAS LANDED

After years of speculation, and with Carl's Junior already here, the first of the big worldwide burger chains has finally made it to Vietnam. Well, kind of.

With their first branch now open at the Tan Son Nhat international terminal, and with a second outlet apparently being constructed at the airport in Da Nang, Burger King is finally getting its Whopper-sized claws into Vietnamese soil, if, that is, you’re flying out of Vietnam.

With a Whopper value meal going for VND160,000 and the bacon and cheese double meal costing only a touch less, anyone looking to stock up on all that great but tasty western junk food can now finally stodge up and get their fix.

January 2012 The Word | 9

Just In HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON OPENS

AN LAM SAIGON RIVER BOUTIQUE OPENS A boutique hotel has recently opened along the waterways of Saigon River. An Lam Saigon River is located on the banks of Thuan An in Binh Duong opposite District 12, and boasts seven exclusive and luxurious riverside villas set in vibrant tropical gardens, and 16 guestrooms, each exclusively designed and furnished in a contemporary style with Vietnamese touches.

As well as possessing spa and detox facilities, the resort also offers a speedboat shuttle service to and from downtown Saigon’s main port in District 1, taking a mere 15 minutes.

Guests flying in from overseas can choose between taking a limousine directly to the hotel from the airport or using the speedboat from the centre of the city.

Non-guests can also book for lunch or dinner at the resort’s onsite restaurant by calling (065) 0378 5555.

For more information and booking enquiries, visit www.epikurean.ws

WAR SOS EXHIBITION LAUNCHED Wildlife At Risk (WAR) has launched the SOS Travelling Exhibition at Minh Duc Secondary School. Aiming to educate people on wildlife protection consumption, the opening ceremony on Dec. 3 urged leaders, students and participants to act to help protect the various species of Vietnam’s wildlife that face extinction.

More than 500 people participated in the launching ceremony, including leaders and representatives of Ho Chi Minh City’s Department of Education and Training, Department of Forest Protection, secondary school administrators, as well as teachers and students representing Minh Duc Secondary School.

In memory of the recently extinct Javan rhino, participants and students listened to a special song and took part in a minute’s silence. The 50 best paintings taken from a student drawing contest entitled Treasures of the Forest, which focused on the conservation of the Javan rhino and other endangered wildlife, were also displayed, with each participant also receiving a special poster in commemoration of the fallen animal.

By the end of 2012, the SOS Travelling Exhibition will operate throughout 40 secondary schools in Ho Chi Minh City, targeting more than 20,000 students and teachers.

For more information, contact Ms Huyen Do Thi Thanh at huyen.dtt@wildlifeatrisk.org or visit www.wildlifeatrisk.org

10 | The Word January 2012

The five-star Hotel Nikko Saigon celebrated its official opening ceremony last month.

With 23 floors above ground and three basement-level floors, the hotel has 334 guestrooms and 53 serviced apartments.

The hotel’s guestrooms are sized at 40sqm, larger than most hotel guestrooms in the city, and provide high-quality amenities including LCD flat-screen TVs. Dining options include an all-day dining restaurant named La Brasserie that serves international and Japanese cuisine, an authentic Chinese restaurant called Ming Court and The Lounge at the lobby.

Guests staying on the Nikko Club Floor, on the 21st and 23rd floors of the hotel, will receive additional privileges such as complimentary access to the Nikko Club Lounge, where breakfast, afternoon tea and snacks are offered.

Banquet and meeting facilities include the Grand Ballroom, which holds 450 guests in a buffet-style banquet and 600 guests for cocktail receptions, a small meeting room and six function rooms for large conferences. In addition, as an adjunct to the business centre, the hotel offers 14 temporary offices, while other facilities include a fitness centre, outdoor pool and spa.

To celebrate the opening of the hotel, special rates ranging from VND2,520,000 for a deluxe room, to VND4,620,000 for the Nikko Club executive suite, are being offered until Jan. 31. This includes one complimentary buffet breakfast and Wi-Fi internet access in all guestrooms, free use of the fitness centre and outdoor swimming pool, a 15 percent discount on food and drink at La Brasserie, and free parking.

Hotel Nikko Saigon is located at 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1. For more information and booking enquires, visit www. hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn or call 3925 7777

January 2012 The Word | 11

ZERO The latest addition to the growing plethora of restaurants on Dong Du, with its Australianinfluenced, international and Asian fare, Zero provides a nice dining alternative for anyone looking to eat out in District 1.

Doused in a soft light creamy green and with the artworks of Helene Kling hanging on the wall, the bright decor and comfortable seating of this two-floored restaurant and bar make a refreshing change to the darker colours of elsewhere.

With a constantly changing menu that includes anything from the signature Zero burger and Zero surf and turf through to skewer platters, passion fruit and honey chicken wings, caramelised pork in clay pot and Vietnamese traditional sour soup, there is a real Vietnamese and international mix here thanks to the Vietnamese-Australian chef, Kevin Le. The Australian couple behind the venture are equally endearing, all giving a warm, family feel to the place.

Prices are reasonable, too, with a la carte dishes going for between VND100,000 and VND180,000, while the set lunch costs VND195,000 for two courses.

Zero, 15 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 3822 4598

SCOTT & BINH’S OPENS Specialising in affordable though tasty, home cooked-style comfort food, Scott & Binh’s restaurant and cafe has opened up inside the AT Bizu Hotel in Phu My Hung.

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 4pm to 11pm, the western and Euro-Mediterranean flavoured menu includes various soups, salads, pasta dishes, sharing platters, sandwiches and burgers, as well as hearty main courses that include herb encrusted Spanish mackerel, five-spice chicken breast and chilli roasted pork tenderloin. Desserts include white chocolate bread pudding, rum caramalised fruit and a Snickers tart.

Other highlights include Scott & Binh’s homemade hummous, bread and butter pickles, and the Big Macca burger. Prices range from VND55,000 to VND75,000 for starters, VND65,000 to VN95,000 for sharing platters, VND110,000 to VND275,000 for mains, and VND75,000 for all desserts.

Scott & Binh’s is located AT Bizu Hotel, 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Hung Phuoc 1, Phu My Hung.

For more information, email scottandbinhs@gmail.com

12 | The Word January 2012

OAKLEY OPENS DOWNTOWN OUTLET Oakley, the American sports and fashion eyewear, apparel and accessories brand, has opened a new outlet at 28 Ton That Thiep, Q1.

Open daily from 9.30am to 8.30pm, the store is an authorised Oakley dealer in Ho Chi Minh City, and retails a range of original American Oakley products such as high quality sunglasses and eyewear from VND3 million to VND9.5 million, and apparel and accessories from VND600,000 to VND3.5 million.

For more information, call 3821 5712 or visit www.oakley.com

January 2012 The Word | 13

the talk

A GIANT STORE Giant, a leading food and general merchandise retailer that operates supermarkets and hypermarkets in Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei, has opened its first store in Vietnam.

On Dec. 21, the opening ceremony of the first Giant superstore took place at the newly opened Crescent Mall in Phu My Hung.

With its "one-stop-shop" merchandising concept and "Low Price, Big Variety and Great Value" marketing philosophy, the Giant store

offers a wide range of fresh food, grocery items and non-food items.

Giant forms part of the Dairy Farm Group, a leading pan-Asian retailer that operates over 5,000 retail outlets in Asia. The Group runs supermarkets, hypermarkets, health and beauty stores, convenience stores, home furnishings stores and restaurants under well-known local brands.

Giant is located at Basement 1 of the Crescent Mall (Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Q7) and is open daily from 8am to 10pm

U.S. POLO ASSN COMES TO VIETNAM

CITY GARDEN CAFE

With over 30 stores worldwide, from Lebanon to Venezuela, American men’s clothing line U.S. Polo Assn has opened its flagship Vietnam store in Ho Chi Minh City.

Located at 138 Nguyen Trai, Q1, the store stocks a range of sports casual and professional office attire. The brand is also officially sanctioned by the United States Polo Association, the governing body for the sport of polo in the United States since 1890.

For more information, visit www.uspoloassn.com

Wedged into a tiny space opposite Xu and Blanchy's Tash, City Garden is the latest business to set up shop in downtown Saigon.

An outdoor cafe but with a retractable roof that can be pulled back to protect customers from the rain or blaring sun, this down-to-earth venue provides a welcome, non-air conditioned alternative for anyone looking for decent Italian coffee and cafe fare to match.

The decor is simple but attractive, too — wicker seating with cream cushions surrounded by a sea of recently planted bamboo.

With lattes and cappuccinos starting at VND35,000 a cup, also on offer is a range of juices (VND55,000 each), cocktails, draft Tiger at VND30,000 and much more. On the food front, the mix includes a creative range of reasonably priced paninis starting at VND50,000 each, a selection of Mediterranean-influenced salads as well as a beef corner with imported rib eye, beef tartar and US tenderloin.

City Garden is located at 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1

14 | The Word January 2012

January 2012 The Word | 15

TREND SPOTTER

thE crEscEnt mall THE OPENiNg Of THE CRESCENT Mall COulD bRiNg NEw iMPETuS TO SaigON SOuTH

T

here is such a proliferation of shopping malls in this city that the opening of a new one is hardly going to set the retail market on fire. The Crescent Mall in Phu My Hung, though, has a different significance. Although the nearby Parkson Paragon has already been running for a couple of years, the arrival of this new, international-standard mall will hopefully bring some focus, if not a materialistic one, to an area that is striving to be an alternative city centre.

The issue has not been the area itself.

This is truly a well thought-out and mostly well-executed project. But The Crescent — the stretch of apartments, offices and restaurants on the banks of Ban Nguyet Lake — is all about exclusivity and luxury.

This is not something everyone can afford.

And in an economic period where belts are being tightened and waistlines are no longer being stretched, it has struggled to get the momentum it truly needs to push forward.

Speak to the business owners there. While weekends have generally seen good trade, for

16 | The Word January 2012

most, weekdays have been slow.

The significance of the new mall is twofold.

Not only will it provide the full range of shopping options for Saigon South residents, thus catering for their lifestyle needs locally, but it will also attract more people to The Crescent. There are countless empty properties in the area and with many more developments on their way, the competition for new residents is set grow. At a time when there is a lack of ready cash flying around, the competition could be tough. And all those restaurants and bars already there could certainly do with a boost.

To Be Luxury or Not A mistake made by many a shopping mall the length and breadth of Vietnam is to focus on luxury. Head elsewhere in this region and the big cities have malls catering for the full range of consumer. In Saigon, except for Saigon Square, Saigon Tax Centre and maybe the Russian Market, the obsession is for all things expensive. Most importantly has been the emphasis on more costly

overseas brands. Vietnam has an inferiority complex, sometimes justified, sometimes not, about the quality of its own products. The top-end malls allow those not wanting to buy Vietnamese to splurge out on all things imported. Unfortunately, despite the growing middle class, few people can consume with such extravagance, no matter what status it affords.

Fortunately, due to its location The Crescent Mall avoids the luxury problem.

Sporting international brands like Gap, DKNY, Diesel, French Connection and well-known Southeast Asian supermarket chain, Giant. And with many more seemingly on their way, the development is certainly hitting top end. A Megastar cine complex is coming, too, as is a huge supermarket, a food court and games space. In an area where the residents do, in general, have money to burn, they’ve got a good chance of bringing in the sales.

The question, as ever, is how many people will buy it. Having walked through the half-opened mall with its large spaces and off-white painted walls, there is certainly something very international and nonVietnamese about the place — it fits in with the general mood of Saigon South. And if that is anything to go by, then the chances of success are fairly high.

the talk

OPENING HOURS: OPENING DATE:

SUPERSTORE

Ñaïi loä Nguyeãn Vaên Linh, Phöôøng Taân Phuù Quaän 7, Thaønh phoá Hoà Chí Minh

January 2012 The Word | 17

In the Papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

HANOI AND SAIGON COSTLY FOR EXPATS IN ASIA Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City have been ranked 41st and 43rd, respectively, among the 49 most expensive cities for expats to live in Asia, according to a new survey by the consulting firm ECA International.

ECA's Cost of Living Survey is carried out biannually in March and September by measuring a basket of common items purchased by expats in more than 400 locations globally, such as dairy, produce, clothing and dining out.

The survey does not include housing, utilities, car and school expenses as these costs are offset by other factors, the firm said.

According to the survey, the last 12 months have seen considerable increases in the cost of food, oil and other commodities in many parts of the world.

In Asia, some of the biggest increases for items in ECA's basket of goods and services have been witnessed in Bangladesh (15 percent), Vietnam (14.2 percent) and India (13.3 percent). On average, prices have risen by just over eight percent in Asia.

"While, in locations like Singapore, price inflation has worked alongside exchange rate movements to push a location up the cost of living ranking, in other cases currency fluctuations are still outweighing the impact of inflation,� explains Lee Quane, ECA International's regional director.

The survey showed Japanese cities occupied the top four most expensive locations in Asia, with Tokyo ranked first followed by Nagoya, Yokohama and Kobe.

Rounding out Asia's top ten list of most expensive locations are Seoul in fifth place, followed by Singapore, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Busan.

While living costs have risen by more than eight percent on average in Asia, this has not diminished the appeal of the region to foreign companies, ECA International said.

"People still want to move here, companies still want to expand their operations here," Quane said.

VIETNAM FOLK MUSIC IN LINE FOR UNESCO CREDIT Don ca tai tu, a fading genre of folk music mainly developed and common in the south of Vietnam, will be submitted to UNESCO by March 2011 for recognition as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.

The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism are now conducting research to trace down its origin and systemize musical theory of the genre. They are also collecting signature songs to send to UNESCO. Unlike other traditional music genres, the art is rooted in the scholarly musical theory of the Vietnamese royal court music in the former capital of Hue before being adapted for the masses.

This genre is generally popular in the Mekong Delta.

18 | The Word January 2012

PROJECT TO MAKE E-DRIVING LICENCES A group of researchers has proposed to the Can Tho City People’s Committee a project to produce electronic driving licences that will enable traffic police to have better control over drivers.

An e-driver’s licence, which has been applied in many other countries, can store high volumes of data related to the driver including personal details, photographs, medical records, history of traffic compliance, payment of fines through banks and much more useful information, the group said.

Traffic police simply place such e-licences, which have the same size as an ATM card, to a handheld card scanner and read the information displayed on the machine’s screen.

If approved, the project will be implemented on a pilot basis in several provinces and cities.

CITY ORDERS 35,000 MOBILE SUBSCRIBERS CUT OFF The Ho Chi Minh City Department of Information and Communications has ordered mobile operators to stop providing services to more than 35,000 prepaid mobile phone subscribers who have ignored the requirement of registering their personal information on subscription.

The penalties were levied after the department conducted inspection into seven service operators on their management over prepaid subscribers in the city as ordered by the city People’s Committee.

Viettel Telecom Group has the most subscribers that are scheduled to have their services cut, followed by Vinaphone and Mobiphone.

The order came after the subscribers had either failed to provide personal information or provided false information when registering to activate a new mobile phone account.

Subscribers are required to provide service operators with information including full name, ID or passport number and date of birth when registering to use a new mobile phone number.

January 2012 The Word | 19

The Buzz

lead with NuMbERS

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2-BALL CHARITY GOLF SCRAMBLE The Brogolf Da Nang vs Rest of Vietnam 2-Ball Charity Scramble 2012 event will take place at the Montgomerie Links course on Jan. 7 and the Da Nang Golf Club on Jan. 8.

For VND6,279,000, participants can expect 36 holes of tournament golf with caddies, carts and on-course drinks. The Saturday will include lunch with two drinks, a gala dinner with two-hour free flow beer, wine and soft drinks, and a charity auction. Sunday’s itinerary includes a buffet lunch with a two-hour free flow beer, wine and soft drinks, and a small charity event donation.

Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is offering a special rate of VND2.3 million for twin share rooms over the weekend and Jetstar flights are available for approximately VND2.5 million return.

The event will raise funds for genital reconstructive surgery for Thien Nhan, a boy abandoned at birth in central Vietnam who lost his right leg, penis and testicles after being mauled by a wild dog, and over 90 boys in Vietnam.

For bookings, special accommodation offers, donation and sponsorship enquiries, contact Craig on 0909 273997 or Nhu on 0909 299 741. Email: events@brogolfer.com

RED PARTY Two of Saigon's resident party starters will unite for one huge throw down on Jan. 20 at Blanchy's Tash.

Well-known for their consistently fun, energetic and popular parties, DJs Kamel Knight and Jordan Howard are combining their talents to throw one of the biggest parties of the Lunar New Year with back to back sets that’ll see the best in hip-hop, dance, mash-up and more spun on the wheels of steel.

Other events at the Japanese-South American fusion restobar this month include Bash@Tash with DJ Mark Jolly on Jan. 6, Good Times with DJ Scrambled Edge on Jan. 13, and Underground with Jordan Howard on Jan. 31.

Blanchy’s Tash is located at 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1

20 | The Word January 2012

8 REVELATIONS ABOUT GENERATION DIFFERENCES CIMIGO INTERVIEWED 1,000 VIETNAMESE AGED 15 TO 64 IN SAIGON AND HANOI TO UNDERSTAND GENERATION DIFFERENCES 1. WHO DRESSES TO KILL? The young generation is fashion conscious; 1 in 2 participants aged between 15 and 24 years old claim that fashion is used to express themselves, while only one-third of total participants would agree with that.

2. WHO GOES FOR FAMILY? 4 out of 5 participants prioritise family over career. Career never precedes family, even for 15 to 24 year-olds, among whom only one-third would place greater importance on career.

3. WHO DINES OUT? 9 out of 10 participants prefer home meals to dining out. Only the young, aged from 15 to 24 years old, like to dine out more.

4. WHO SAVES MONEY? In money matters, both the young and the old prioritise saving ahead of spending.

5. WHO IS TECH-SAVVY? More than half of all participants

believe technology to be indispensable. The young are more tech savvy as only 4 percent of them are uncomfortable with new technology, compared to onethird of people aged between 50 and 64 years old.

6. SECURITY OR EXCITEMENT? 8 out of 10 participants choose security over excitement in their jobs. Only 2 in 10 participants wish to switch jobs and this number is only slightly higher among younger participants.

7. WHO’S MORE PRUDISH? 9 in 10 participants believe sexual intimacy in movies should not be shown. Two-thirds of participants aged between 15 and 24 years old believe dating is okay while studying, while one-third does not.

8. WHO’S HEALTHIER? More than 70 percent of participants aged between 50 and 64 years old exercise daily while only 40 percent of participants aged between 15 and 24 years old do so.

Discover more at www.cimigo.vn

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Celebrate the Year of the Dragon at Shang Palace Restaurant with full of joyful ambiance and our fabulous menu specially presented by our 5 head chefs from Hong Kong.

Fro m 1 5 J a n to 0 6 Fe b 2 0 1 2 1st Floor , 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, District 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164 - Fax: (84 8) 3822 6116 Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vn - Website: www.shangpalace.com.vn

Yu Sheng holding “Abundance” raw salmon mixed with eye-catching shredded vegetables and a variety of sauces, or Prosperous Big Bowl Feast containing premium ingredients delicately displayed layer by layer, along with Lunar New Year Special Mixed Meat Platter and Lunar New Year pastry (Banh To) for a perfect dessert.

Don’t miss the Lion dance at 12pm on the 1st day of the Lunar New Year to start a prosperous year.

January 2012 The Word | 21

Word of Mouth COME FLY WITH ME The first Air Asia flight from Kuala Lumpur landed in Da Nang last month as rumours of a similar service from Bangkok beginning in February continue to grow.

Marking a milestone in the central coast region’s surge toward becoming a bona fide international tourism destination, Air Asia flight 868 touched down in Da Nang just after 9am on Dec. 16.

The two-hour and 40-minute flight was made by a 180-seat Airbus A320, signalling the beginning of a service between Vietnam’s third largest city and the Malaysian capital every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.

For more information, visit www.airasia.com

LIMESTONE GROTTO GALA Talk about your limelight. In May 2012, several dozen passengers of Emeraude Classic Cruises, bedecked in black ties and gowns, will descend the gangplank and ascend a limestone pathway to a torchlit grotto for a gala dinner.

The event, which takes place from May 26 to May 27, will be the 8th Annual Wine Cruise for the Emeraude, but the first since Halong Bay has been recognised as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature.

The in-grotto dinner will be accompanied by vintages from the Rhone Valley’s M. Chapoutier Winery, including the Condrieu Invitare, Crozes-Hermitage "Les Meysonniers", La Bernardine Chateauneuf du Pape and Les Becasses Cote Rotie in Condrieu, a village in France’s Rhone Valley. A representative from M Chapoutier, Stephen Barlerin, will join the cruise.

For more information, visit www.emeraude-cruises.com

TET FESTIVAL The International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) will host a family friendly afternoon of arts, music, performances, food and games in honour of Tet this month.

Held from 3pm to 6.30pm on Jan. 13, the free-of-charge event includes a welcome reception, ISSP spring performance show and Tet fun fair. Divided into four zones, the fair includes workshops and mini lessons in calligraphy, flour art, coconut leaf art, bamboo dancing, shadow-cutting photos, and Dong Ho traditional painting.

Finger food and drinks will be available as well as a Tet mini market, Tet photo booth, and eight different games for kids to win prizes at; including tug of war, sack races, flag races, blind drumming, water carrying, shuttlecock throwing, something called ‘funny land’, and a contest dubbed ‘Who’s the Quickest?’.

To attend the Tet Festival, RSVP to Ms Tien on 2222 7788 by Jan. 10. The International School Saigon Pearl is located at 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh

WHEELS FOR EDUCATION The Loreto Vietnam-Australia Program (LVAP) recently distributed 134 brand new bicycles and helmets to disadvantaged kids in Hoc Mon District.

LVAP’s “Wheels-for-Education” project enables many rural students to go to school with ease and reduces the stress for many families.

Many children have to walk a long way to school on precarious roadways in the wet and dry seasons of southern Vietnam and by having a bicycle this journey is made easier.

Over a four-year period the LVAP has distributed over 750 bicycles to children in rural districts across southern Vietnam.

For more information on the Loreto Vietnam-Australia Program, visit www.loretovietnam.org

22 | The Word January 2012

YOGA ANNIVERSARY DISCOUNT In celebration of its one-year anniversary, Soham Yoga Studio & Boutique (84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1) is offering 40 percent off all yoga memberships and classes purchased between Jan. 1 and Jan. 20, as well as a whole day of free yoga on Jan. 20. And in true birthday style, a party with snacks, refreshments and a giveaway will be held on the same day from 11am to 2pm.

For more information, visit www.soham.vn or call 3920 5813

Ground Floor, The Link, Kumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, D.1

*Free sub must be equal or lesser value. Not valid with other offers or discounts. Images are for illustration purposes only. Limited time offer at Kumho Link store only. ©2011 Doctor’s Associates Inc. SUBWAY® is a registered trademark of Doctor’s Associates Inc.

www.facebook.com/subwayinvietnam

January 2012 The Word | 23

the talk

OPEN DURING TET

LOOK AFTER YOUR SKIN Stamford Skin Centre now offers digital dermoscopy. Unique to Vietnam, it’s an effective method employed in high-risk skin cancer countries such as Australia and New Zealand to evaluate and check for melanoma and other skin cancers. Digital dermoscopy can also be used to aid in the diagnosis of other skin diseases and conditions.

Stamford Skin Centre’s Dr Mark Siefring is now an active member of the International Dermoscopy Society (IDS) and the Skin Cancer College of Australia and New Zealand (SCCANZ).

For more information, visit www.stamfordskin.com

Charcoal sizzle at Corso Steakhouse & Bar. Try prime cuts of Australian & US Beef for lunch and dinner.

24 | The Word January 2012

Those staying in the city during Tet will be pleased to know that French bistro The Refinery (74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) will largely be staying open during the holiday. Reduced opening hours and a smaller menu will apply from Jan. 23 to Jan. 25 when the restaurant will open from 12pm to 10pm. Normal service will resume from Jan. 26.

Italian eatery Pendolasco (87 Nguyen Hue) in District 1 will be closed on Jan. 22 and Jan. 23, and scheduled to opened again on Jan. 24. Alternatively, their District 2 restaurant, located (36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2) is closed from Jan. 21 until Jan. 25 but is still available for delivery and pick-up on Jan. 21, Jan. 24 and Jan. 25.

Also open during this period will be Hog’s Breath (Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, Au Trieu, Q1), ZanZBar (41 Dong Du, Q1) and the recently established restaurant and bar Zero (15 Dong Du, Q1).

For a full list of places that are open during Tet, please visit our website, www.wordhcmc.com.

the talk

DETOX FOR THE NEW YEAR Keep that New Year’s resolution you’ve made to stay healthy at Mekong Merchant this month with their range of detox breakfasts, juices and healthy salads.

Alternatively, if you’re merely full of good intentions, indulge in Mekong Merchant and MM Bistro Saigon’s happy hour offers. The former offers deals on house wine, beers and cocktails from 4pm to 7pm every Monday to Friday, while the latter has specials on house wine and beer with complimentary appetisers from 4pm to 7pm every Monday to Friday.

Mekong Merchant and MM Bistro Saigon are located at 23 Thao Dien, Q2

January 2012 The Word | 25

WIRED ONLINE MAGAZINES The iPad tends to be the gadget of choice when it comes to reading online magazines in a glossy, digital, visually enticing format. But there are now a number of single and cross-platform applications that provide the same functions for PCs, Macs, Android phones more.

One of the best is Zinio.

Including titles from the likes of GQ, Hello, Cosmopolitan, Newsweek, The Economist, FHM and much more, purchase a magazine or a subscription on your computer, and you can also view the same publication on your smart phone. Issuu offers the same service and most of the publications found here are free. However, while the online Issuu website is well-designed and user friendly, the smartphone application has yet to achieve full functionality — you can’t zoom and you can only read articles as text files. There is also the recently launched Android app, Google currents, and for Apple users, of course, Flipboard, which is now available on the iPhone.

Other smartphone options are individual applications for news agencies and magazines.

Among the best are The Guardian, Time Magazine, The Economist, AP and CNN. At present, the tablet versions of most of these apps are more magazine-like, but having a whole newspaper on your phone, such as The Guardian, which automatically updates each time you open the app, is pretty useful.

26 | The Word January 2012

A HOLIDAY SALE On the occasion of the coming Lunar New Year, Gaya (1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1) has announced a holiday discount for outdoor furniture from Australian designer Lawson Johnston. Johnston has a well-earned reputation for his ingenious use of materials such as water hyacinth or rattan with modern fabrics such as Teflon micro fiber or synthetic durable velvets.

Customers at Gaya can enjoy 30 percent off the entire outdoor range in January, making it an ideal present to a lucky recipient for Tet or just to treat yourself.

BREWS FOR SALE Sourcing teas from across the globe and bringing it to Vietnam, Operation: TEA is now stocking a line of highend, whole leaf teas at The Oasis Gourmet’s outlets in An Phu and Phu My Hung.

A selection of green, black, white, oolong and puerh teas from China, Japan and beyond can also be purchased from 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, and from Oasis which is located inside the grounds of Snap Café (32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2).

For a full list of teas, visit www. operationteavietnam.com

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TET HOMEWARE DISCOUNT From now until Jan. 23, all products displayed at contemporary furnishing and homewares store Esthetic (11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh) will be sold at a 20 to 30 percent discount. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and high-quality wood shelving.

For more information, visit www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn

MUSIC ARTS CAMP The Performing Arts Academy of Ho Chi Minh City’s third winter holiday arts camp will take place from Jan. 2 to Jan. 6.

Split into two age groups, children aged between three and five will learn musical skills through singing and creative movement while discovering tempo, dynamics and pitch with a variety of musical instruments. They will also learn the names of orchestra instruments, and get hands-on experience with drums, piano, guitar and recorder, becoming familiar with these through games and activities. Finally they will spend the week learning a mixed dance routine.

Children aged between six and 11 will learn basic music skills necessary for beginning an instrument or voice studies through group games and activities. They will become familiar with the parts of a drum set and get hands on experience, as well as playing the guitar and learning a few basic chords, before learning to play a short piece on the piano at the end of the week.

The camp for three to five-year-olds takes place from 9am to 12pm, with the option of staying for lunch, a nap and afternoon playgroup, while the camp for six and 11-years-old starts at 1pm and ends at 4pm. The cost for both groups is VND630,000 per day or VND2,625,000 per week.

To reserve a spot for your child, call 6281 9679 or email info@paa.com.vn. The Performing Arts Academy of Ho Chi Minh City is located at 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2

IT’S PLAY TIME Parents and kids aged between one and three years old are invited to attend BrightSparks, a free and informal playgroup where children get to play, sing their favourite nursery rhymes, make friends and listen to classic children stories.

Held every Tuesday from 8.15am to 9.45am at ACG International School’s Kindergarten room in An Phu, the first session will take place on Jan. 10. To join, call 3747 1234 or email myco.tran@acgedu. com.

ACG International School is located at East-West Highway, Road 25B, Q2. For a location map, visit www.acgedu.com

January 2012 The Word | 27

JaNuaRY CALENDAR 01

SuN Randy Cataluna. 8.30pm every Wed. at Al Fresco’s Thao Dien & from Thu. to Sun. at Universal, Bui Vien

New Years Day with a Hair of the Dog, Sun. Session with buckets of Corona & Wings Combo for VND420,000 at Hog’s Breath

08

02

Trick Art. From Dec. 1 to Feb. 10 at Thien Son Plaza (800 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7)

09

Sunday Paellas & Happy Hour.

12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana Weekend brunch with buckets of Corona or Sapporo. Outdoor music. Starts at 10am every Sat. & Sun. at Hog’s Breath

15

moN

Jenny Santiago’s acoustic night.

8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana

Tapas Fiesta & Wine through the night. 7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

Happy Hour with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

3 + 1. 8pm every Sun. at Juno Corner (76 Mac Dinh Chi)

GBA Annual General Meeting at Moevenpick Hotel. Visit www.gbavietnam.org for details

23

Saigon Swing Club and Relaxing Night with Carmen & Brothers. 7pm every Sun. at La Habana

Tet Holidays.

Lucky money for all kids dining with parents at Hog’s Breath

Live music with BBQ. Every Sun. night at Ala Mezon

29 Happy Hour. 4pm to 7pm every day at Pasha Happy Hour. 6pm to 2am every day at Purple Jade Happy Hour. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

28 | The Word January 2012

10

Every Tue. at BoatHouse.

VND210,000 Steak

Free Beer Mondays. 6pm to 7.30pm every Mon. at BoatHouse

Happy Hour with house wine, beer and complementary appetisers. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon VND42,000 Bacardi and Coke, VND160,000 jugs of Mojito.

5pm every Mon. at Le Pub

Saigon Players Club. 7pm every first Wed. of the month at La Habana

Live Music. 6.30pm every Wed. at Al Fresco’s Thao Dien Ladies Night with Carmen & Brothers’ Live acoustic. 8.30pm ever Wed. at La Habana

Steak & Ale Combo for VND200,000 and grilled rib eye steak & a mug of beer for VND210,000. Every Wed. at Hog’s Breath Matt Willis. 8pm every Wed. at Sugar Bowl Jazz

18

Ladies' Day - free drink for ladies.

Every Tue. at Tamago Buy 1 pizza get 1 free available Turkish & Italian pizza at Pasha.

From 11am to 11pm every Tue.

24

31

Pure. 9pm every Wed. at Blanchy’s Tash

25

Blind Test. 9pm every Tue. at Ala Mezon

30

04

WEd

11

BrightSparks.

8.15am to 9.45am every Tue. at ACG International School. Call 3747 1234 for details

17

Salsa classes at 7.30pm & Romantic Night with “Carmen & Brothers” at 8.30pm. Every Mon. at La Habana

22

VND21,000 Vodka drinks. 5pm every Tue. at Le Pub

Music Arts Camp. From Jan. 2 to Jan. 6. Email info@paa.com.vn for info

16

La Vita e La Morte. Jan. 13, 14 & 15 at Boomarang Bistro Saigon, Q7. Email saigonplayers@gmail. com for info

03

tuE

Ladies Night. 8pm every Tue. at The Amber Room

Underground with DJ Jordan Howard at Blanchy’s Tash Boss Hog’s Birthday. Free Tiger draught from 6pm to 7pm at Hog’s Breath

Australian Day Celebration. Watch the Australia Day Cricket live, free sausage sizzle for charity and free Fosters draught beer. At Hog’s Breath

the talk

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Jan. 7 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

05

thu

06 Turntables on Terrace.

8.30pm every Thu. at Pacharan

12 Thursday Night Special. Every Thu. at La Hostaria Happy Hour - Half Price Drinks. 5.30pm to 8.30pm from Mon. to Fri. at Xu

19

Ladies’ Night. Every Thu. at Bootleg

Maeve & Dave. 9.30pm every Fri. at Thi Café

Scott Brantley on Percussion. 8pm every Fri. at Elbow Room & every Tue. at O’Brien’s Bash @ Tash with special guest Dj Mark Jolly. 9pm at Blanchy’s Tash

13

Happy Hour. From 5pm to 9pm every day at Bacchus Corner

FRI

Good Times with Dj Scrambled Edge. At Blanchy’s Tash

ISSP Tet Festival 2012. 3pm to 6.30pm at International School Saigon Pearl. Call 2222 7788 for info Saigon Flea Market. 2pm to 9pm at Saigon Pearl. Visit www. saigonfleamarket.com for details

20

07

Sat at

Da Nang vs. Rest of Vietnam 2-Ball Scramble 2012. Jan. 7 at Montgomerie Links and Jan. 8 at Da Nang Golf Club. Email events@brogolfer.com for info

14

Happy Hour. 5pm to 8pm every day, except Sun. at Alibi

Black Sauce. 9pm every Sat. at La Fenetre Soleil Leyote Taylor. 11pm from Mon. to Fri. at MZ & 10pm every Sat. at Thi Café

21

Salsa classes at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm. Every Thu. at La Habana Yakitori/BBQ - prices range from VND15,000 to VND49,000/ per skewer. Every Wed. & Thu. night at Tamago

26 Heineken Bucket of 6.

Grab a bucket of extra-long neck Heinekens for VND94,500.

Every day at ZanZBar

The Red Party at Blanchy’s Tash

27

Draught beer for under a buck – San Miguel draught for VND15,000.

5pm to 7pm every Fri. at Hog’s Breath

Friday drinks. 4pm every Fri. at Vino Friday Fiesta. 9pm at La Habana Weekend Treats. 6pm to 10pm every Fri. and Sat. at Market 39

28

Mr. 10, Navin, Icee & Justin Murta.

9.30pm every Sat at Xu

Vis à Vis. From Dec. 8 to Jan. 28 at Galerie Quynh. Call 3836 8019 for info

January 2012 The Word | 29

OVER

SCENE A DOSE OF FAME dOSe saw out 2011 with a huge outdoor 12-hour party at Binh Quoi Village on the night of the lunar eclipse. The UK’s Quantic and a host of Saigon’s local and foreign DJs pulled out all the stops to ensure this was one of the events of the year

GLITZY GLAMOUR XMAS PARTY Members and friends of the British Business Group Vietnam dressed up as Morris dancers, Edina & Patsy from Absolutely Fabulous and all things British to celebrate Christmas with a ‘London Calling’-themed festive bash at the Caravelle Hotel

SSC CHARITY SCOOTER RUN Forget reindeer, in Vietnam Santa rides a Vespa. The sixth annual Saigon Scooter Centre Charity Scooter Run saw a strong turnout in support of the Chua Huyen Trang pagoda in Nha Be and to hand out presents to needy kids

BARCAMP 5 RMIT played host to the 5th BarCampSaigon conference where participants spoke, shared and collaborated in workshops related to technology

30 | The Word January 2012

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE END OF SEASON PARTY The city’s darts enthusiasts came together to celebrate another successful year with beers aplenty at Lion Brewery

La pura eleganza dell’autentico espresso italiano rivive nell’aroma di

Punto

tostatura

THE BEATS SAIGON 5TH ANNIVERSARY

Italia

Espresso.

La

lenta

preserva

le

caratteristiche e la dolcezza della

The party at Vasco’s went off with a bang thanks to bass heavy sets from LA’s DJ Heru and DJ Jase

sua raffinata miscela e garantisce tutto

il

piacere

del

sapore

dell’Italia. Punto Italia Espresso: un capolavoro italiano.

The elegance of the authentic Italian espresso unfolds in the aroma of Punto Italia Espresso.

The slow fire-roasting preserves the characteristics and sweetness of the refined blend, guaranteeing TAN KHOA SPARKLING NIGHTS

the pleasure of the real taste of

Sparkling white wine lovers indulged in a night of bubbly action at FLOW courtesy of Tan Khoa and Zonin. A charity auction of Helene Kling’s paintings added a good cause to the vibe

Italy.

MIC OI Cha Cha dancers, Brazilian-style music artists, singer-songwriters and comedians were just some of the acts to take part in the third instalment of Mic Oi at Universal

Punto

Italia

Espresso:

an Italian masterpiece.

32 | The Word January 2012

Insider

Crosstown traffic / nha rong port / a river runs through it

Photo by QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

CHARITY CORNER

TRASH UNCLE This story won the grand prize for "Story by an individual” award in the LIN Volunteer Stories Competition 2011. The competition was organised by LIN Center for Community Development, a philathropic institution that supports grassroots non-profit organisations in and and around Ho Chi Minh City. Words by Nguyen Huong Dao. Translated by UNV volunteers

I

would like to tell you a story about the Nam Dinh Trash Team. It is special for me, and hopefully for you too. I am pretty sure about this.

On my first day working with the volunteer team I dressed nicely, putting on formal pants and a white shirt. I wanted to make a good first impression.

But those clothes only seemed to make me stand out from everyone else. Why? Do you think that our team has an unusual name? TRASH, or ‘rubbish’ in other words. Yes, our team does a job that could be called ‘out of the ordinary’ — gathering rubbish from donor families.

What is this rubbish used for? We sort cardboard, paper, plastic bags, metal, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and aluminum cans, then sell them. The money earned is used to buy rice for poor people every month. Sometimes, usually every six months, we visit orphanages, leprosariums and charity houses set up for the lonely and poor elderly. It’s simple, isn’t it?

You will appreciate it more as we travel down our team’s memory lane…

Once, we encountered an awful, musty smell whilst sorting the rubbish we had collected. As we could not dig through everything to find the cause, we had to bear the smell and continue our work.

Afterwards we discovered a big bag of meat that had gone off, hence the smell.

Have you ever experienced that? It’s common for everyone in the Rubbish Team, the musty smell of stale food, the moldy smell of fermented drinks and the smell of... rubbish.

On my first day I felt disgusted, even though I had not really put my hands through any sorting work. I intended to quit, but there was something that pushed me to leave my house and come to the meet with the team again that next Sunday. And since then, I have worked with the Rubbish Team for one year and two months.

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Whether it is sunny or rainy, in the swelter of a hot summer day or the chill of the northern winter, we work regularly in the backyard of a church.

Is it tiring? — Yes, sometimes. But there are still some miracles out there, encouraging us to carry on our work.

These are captured in the knowledge that we are helping someone with our small task. There are lonely elders of 60 to 70 years, some disabled mothers who raise their children with psychiatric disorders year after year with no support, orphans who aren’t independent even though they are 14 years old. All of them encourage and empower us to keep going. Although we can only give each of them 10 kilograms of rice per month, and sometimes a small gift for the New Year celebration, we still want to walk together with them all the time.

I was especially shocked whilst visiting a family during Lunar New Year — the year of the Tiger.

A 70-year-old mom, who had both a daughter and son with mental disorders, wandered onto the street and started to collect rubbish. It was almost New Year’s Eve, but there was only a piece of greasy ‘banh chung’ (traditional rice cake — considered an essential element of the family altar during Vietnamese Lunar New Year) in their tiny, bare house. That New Year’s Eve I continued to think of them. I swore on a New Year’s firework that I would continue to try my best to help and wished them happiness for all of their lives.

At the Rubbish Team, we are like a family. It is simply the fact that because we are working together, we are getting closer and helping each other. It is also because we have a ‘Praying and Birthday Wishing’ event every month.

We visit a member family monthly, and pray and share our thoughts of life, as well as personal issues and celebrate that

month’s members’ birthdays together.

We understand each other, share happiness as well as sorrow, and help and support each other to get through distressful life-circumstances.

Does all of that make us a ‘family’?

Not only are we walking together towards the same goal of loving and helping, but there is also an invisible link between us. “If there is any instance I cannot join our team, I feel that I miss them somehow” — that is what I used to say to the members in my Nam Dinh Trash Team.

This has forced me to get over my own personal complexes. For example, imagine you are wandering around busy streets carrying a huge bag of old cardboard, plastic bags and other rubbish. Do you feel ashamed or embarrassed? Or would you feel awkward if you were seen by a friend?

There was a case when I came to a donor’s family and a child of the family called out “Mommy, the Trash Uncle has come!” In our team, many of us have been called ‘Trash Auntie’ or ‘Rubbish Uncle’.

I am proud of being a Trash Uncle now that I have had the chance to work with my team. Our assistance is small and limited. However, to be able to share their difficulties with others is a great comfort for those less fortunate.

And we always hope that everyone can give a small thought at least for the poor and lonely miserable people. That is my wish, for a ‘love culture’ in our contemporary society.

Will my wish become true?

Regardless, what I feel at the moment is that I am more self-conscious about how to love, care and sympathise with others and how to grow up. I hope that with your help, too, our society will be better, and love and sharing will be considered more often in our lives. That is most likely the thing we are all trying to achieve.

January 2012 The Word | 35

TALKING SHOP

Crosstown

TRAFFIC

Sometimes online videos go viral, and British photographer Rob Whitworth’s Traffic in Frenetic HCMC is one such work. A short time-lapse visual documenting the chaos of Ho Chi Minh City’s traffic, Whitworth has added a new, visually stunning dimension to an oft talked about, increasingly passé topic.

James Allen caught up with the Hoi An-based photographer to find out how the project came to life and how he’s coping with overnight fame. Photos provided by Rob Whitworth Photography

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WITHIN A WEEK OF UPLOADING THE TIME-LAPSE CLIP ONTO VIMEO THE VIDEO WENT VIRAL, SPREADING ACROSS NUMEROUS SOCIAL MEDIA SITES, BLOGS AND NEWS WEBSITES AROUND THE WORLD, INCLUDING THE LIKES OF CBS NEWS, TIME AND THE WASHINGTON POST. DID YOU EXPECT THE REACTION IT’S RECEIVED? The response has blown me away. No matter how much you believe in a project it’s only really tangible when you get direct feedback, and there’s a tendency to think your latest work is your best. I'm also grateful for the small group of family and friends who reviewed the video for me — they’re never afraid to tell me what they think.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO UNDERTAKE SUCH A PROJECT AND WHAT DID YOU HOPE TO ACHIEVE

BY MAKING IT? I draw creativity from stuff that fascinates me and Ho Chi Minh City intrigued me from the moment I arrived — I wanted to understand it, find my way around it, and capture it in some way. Some of the main things that struck me were the massive scale of building and infrastructure construction, as well as the traffic and the general sense of excitement.

There’s a palpable feeling of things growing and improving.

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HOW WERE YOU ABLE TO ACHIEVE SUCH A RANGE OF CAMERA ANGLES? WHAT EQUIPMENT DID YOU USE? I've always considered myself to be a wide-angle photographer, I saw the phrase ‘turning the ordinary into the unusual’ written somewhere and I like that. In Ho Chi Minh City there is so much going that wideangle lenses become essential. At the same time a few of the shots were done using telephoto lenses to pick out some of the interesting details.

I got good use out of the Nikon D7000 with Nikon 12-24, 10-24, 50 1.4 and 70-200 2.8 lenses, and most importantly a tripod and some good books.

Bill Bryson’s At Home — A Short History of Private Life, was a particularly good companion. One of the shots was completed from the top floor of a motorcycle pimping shop while breathing in paint fumes.

DID YOU EXPERIENCE ANY DIFFICULTIES DURING THE SHOOTING PROCESS? The most notable difficulty was having all of my equipment stolen at the end of a particularly successful though now-never-to-be-seen sunset shoot across from the ferry port in District 4. If anyone got a particularly good deal on some Nikon camera equipment in early September this might give them an idea as to why!

Luckily for me, health and safety hasn't caught on in Ho Chi Minh City to the extent it has in London, where you’re suspected as a terrorist before you’ve even got your camera out, let alone a tripod for hours at a time. So it made it possible to get shots without

38 | The Word January 2012

going through months of paperwork or having paramedics and fire crew on standby.

ANGLE AND PAN For any camera enthusiasts wanting to know how the zooms and pans were achieved in his time-lapse, rob Whitworth says that the camera movements were all implemented during post-production using Adobe After effects. “i've played around with in-camera movements but they're limited and unsatisfying,” he adds. “the rAW footage from D-SLrs is very high resolution, which makes it possible to achieve zooms, crops and pans that wouldn't normally be possible in-camera.”

THE TIME-LAPSE IS THE CULMINATION OF 10,000 RAW IMAGES AND MULTIPLE SHOOTS, HOW LONG DID IT TAKE AND CAN YOU DESCRIBE WHAT THE EDITING PROCESS WAS LIKE? Time-lapses are quite a time consuming business in a number of ways. When shooting, once the camera is set up and running there’s some time to step back and take in the scene and experience stuff you wouldn't otherwise. I've seen some pretty cool sunrises and sunsets that I would’ve slept through or otherwise missed.

The shooting was conducted over six short trips to Saigon over a nine-month period and the processing probably took about a month. I spent a lot of time staring at computer screens. There is a saying: “if you want to take pictures, then don't become a photographer”. Personally I love the whole process. I love feeling that I’m pushing the boundaries and doing something new and exciting with the technology available, and the way that time-lapses are both technically and creatively demanding.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE SAIGON TRAFFIC TO THE UNINITIATED? Chaotic. It’s a must-see part of Vietnam. When people ask me what I like most about Vietnam I tell them it’s the traffic. Ho Chi Minh City is the only city I have ever been to where I can cross several districts and park in a sensible amount of time. I’m a natural biker

GIVE WAY (previous pages, left & right) Stills from the video; (below) Rob

at heart so I love being in a country where the motorbike is king.

HOW ARE YOU DEALING WITH THE OVERNIGHT FAME? Funny… the response has been fantastic.

As with many people working in creative industries my work often only gets seen by a handful of people at most and you often get very little feedback, so having it shared around the world is amazing. I’ve been particularly blown away by the response of Vietnamese at home and abroad. There is a real pride that my video seems to have tapped into by presenting Vietnam in a different vibrant light compared to how it’s sometimes presented in mainstream foreign media. All this being said I don't think I'll be stopped in the street anytime soon and asked for an autograph!

WHAT‘S YOUR NEXT PROJECT AND WILL YOU MAKE ANY MORE TIMELAPSES IN VIETNAM? I'm hoping to complete a time-lapse of Hoi An, which will have a very different feel. There is certainly a wealth of shooting opportunities in Vietnam and I’m spoilt for choice with potential locations.

To watch Rob Whitworth’s Traffic in Frenetic HCMC, visit the home page of www. wordhcmc.com

January 2012 The Word | 39

ALLEY TALK

The Dragon Rises: Nha Rong Port District 4’s Nha Rong Port is swapping cargo and boats for gyms, restaurants and nightclubs. Words

by Jonathan Rebours. Photos by Charles Barnes

L

ying on the grass underneath the diminishing shade, with the sun burning in the sky, workers chat in the palatial surroundings of the Ho Chi Minh Museum in District 4. Nicknamed Nha Rong, or ‘Dragon House’, the building has been standing since 1862.

Sitting just over the Ben Nghe Channel separating Districts 1 and 4, the colonial era house-cum-museum overlooks the sweeping river that juxtaposes the greenery of District 2 and the green-glassed high rises of downtown District 1. It was the first building of its kind to be constructed by the French in this city, a far cry from the construction of today.

Steady tugboats chug along the waters as old uniformed officials create their own shade under a sun canopy outside the museum. A short walk along Nguyen Tat Thanh and the sea of change that encompasses the city is

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evident at Nha Rong Port, the alley area at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh.

The alley itself connects the busy main street to the calm river waters, inviting ships to stop at its large berth. Its entrance neighbours the new-looking Cang Sai Gon (3 Nguyen Tat Thanh) that houses the port control and offices. Down at the water’s edge, the river laps up against the concrete embankment. Tranquil, the water is largely uninterrupted by traffic while the alley creates enough distance from the buzzing mopeds on the adjacent road.

The only break in the peace comes from the workers and trucks that busily toil in the heat, invoking the changes that are well underway in this alley. Under the canopy of the vast red California Fitness & Yoga logo, builders and plasterers cement and smash the walls of what is advertised to become a

4,000-square metre fitness centre with its own climbing wall. Although at the time of writing the fitness centre was still under construction, a peer through the dust and haze reveals a cavernous facade that will look impressive when kitted out and completed.

The building site is contained within one huge white shell, previously designed to house the now defunct (and near mythical) Star Wars nightclub that failed to ever officially open its doors. Rebranded as Ocean Club and divided into smaller, constituent parts (the original venue could hold 3,000 people), it attracts droves of hip and trendy young Vietnamese partygoers looking to see and be seen. And thanks to possessing a great location with a connecting bridge that makes a trip into District 4 effortless and quick, this venue may well become a favourite of those working and living in the areas close by.

IN EVERY PORT (opposite and this page) Scenes and activities around Nha Rong A friendly xe-om driver says that few boats depart from here, which explains the empty platform by the water — The Bonsai and docking cruise ships seem to be the exception.

Excluding the nearby construction work, without the traffic of river passengers the alley feels quiet.

Café Sinh To offers fresh fruit juices, smoothies and, while lounging under the café’s umbrella, some much needed respite from the midday heat. A small boat pulls up quickly to the berth and three hardhatclad men hop onto dry land to join their colleagues and involve themselves with the ongoing workload.

Another new feature of this alley is the elegant Napa Steakhouse. Set within the same building as the California Fitness & Yoga gym, this two-month-old American steakhouse exudes sophistication and quality.

The walk up the regal stairway and the inviting dining room is astounding, due in large part to the wall-to-wall view of the river beyond.

Definitely one to check out, Napa Steakhouse offers a great selection of Californian Napa Valley wines from its specially designed wine room. It’s also clear to see that this restaurant has great confidence in its products. The friendly manageress beams that “all the steak is imported direct

from the States…and the wine is really great value.” Having spent just five months in Vietnam she admits “It’s very different from home” but “everyone we meet is incredibly welcoming!”

However, if steak is not quite your thing, fret not, as Sushiya Japanese Restaurant, located beneath, offers some Asian variety.

Again fitted out with a wine room full of sake and interesting Japanese whiskies, So 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh could well become a favourite of food explorers. The addition of Next Top Nightclub in the same building could also make for a night out, despite the crass name, and an alternative destination to the usual downtown clubbing scene.

Upon hearing the nearby, though visually obscured sound of chopping, running water and clanging cooking pots, an investigation behind the old port building is in order.

Numerous chefs sit in the shade outside an open kitchen in the alley next to the well-kept gardens of Bien Nho, intent on preparing for the evening’s service. A mountain of huge pink prawns is impaled on skewers ready for the barbecue while another cook smashes and grinds garlic and chilli into a paste for marinade.

As a boat slips gently by on the millpond water it soon becomes clear that the river is the actual star of this area. No longer serving a true functional purpose en route to elsewhere along this waterway, this port will attract people with its new retail businesses, eager to utilise the scenery provided by the river.

January 2012 The Word | 41

COVER STORY

A River Runs Through It

BY JOHN THORNTON AND NICK ROSS. PHOTOS BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

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The metropolis we now know as Ho Chi Minh City was built on the river. The Khmer were here first, before the administrator Nguyen Huu Canh gave Saigon its Vietnamese face in 1698. Located originally in the space between the Thi Nghe and Ben Nghe canals, with the citadel resting on the hill now occupied by Le Duan, what became known as Saigon was an inland sea port. Life here and transport was all about trade via the river. Even the residents of modern day Cho Lon, originally a standalone settlement 5km down the Ben Nghe Canal, arrived by boat.

Fast forward to the 21st century and the lifeblood of this city still runs through its watery veins. But the canals that once flowed down the centre of Nguyen Hue and Le Loi have long since been filled in, and transportation, commerce and the daily life of this metropolis have all moved on land.

In search of the roots of this city, we take a journey down the Saigon River, from the disputed location of its source to the dubious site of its mouth. In the process we find a waterway and countless canals that with work could offer new focus and breathing space for this growing city.

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FROM THE SOURCE TO THE MOUTH WHERE IT ALL STARTS (above & right) Through Cu Chi and then Binh Duong, images of the Saigon River as it heads out from its source, Dau Tieng Lake

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Trace the start and end of the Saigon River on a map and the only thing that becomes clear is uncertainty surrounding its borderlines.

Depending on who you speak to and the resources used, the results are subjective.

For a country unused to reading maps and cartography, it is no surprise.

But even Wikipedia seems to be off the mark. According to the online encyclopaedia, the Saigon River “rises near Phum Daung in southeastern Cambodia” and flows “south and south-southeast for about 140 miles” before eventually emptying into the Nha Be River, via the Dong Nai River. This assessment has been accepted verbatim by multiple websites.

Others claim its origin lies at the foot of the expansive Tri An Lake, south of Cat Tien National Park, in Dong Nai Province, before ending just past Phu My Bridge in Saigon South, while Google Maps suggests that Song Sai Gon actually emanates from the vast Dau Tieng Lake in Binh Duong Province, and doesn’t stop until the mouth of the South China Sea is reached.

Any of these interpretations can be argued for and against, with one’s particular locale

along the waterways determining the overriding, though inconclusive, perspective.

The Saigon, Dong Nai and Nha Be Rivers are essentially the same waterway, tributaries of the same body of water, and as they head to the sea so they split up into a marshy delta.

On the advice of Saigon natives, we decided to head to Dau Tieng Lake. Located just under 87km away from the centre of Ho Chi Minh City, this source of the Saigon River should take no more than 90 minutes to reach by car, though in reality takes nearly double the time. Exiting the city via Cho Ba Hoa, in Tan Binh District, an area populated by people from Da Nang and the central region of Vietnam, we soon veer off Highway 22 onto Highway 15 in order to follow the trail of the Saigon River.

The bulk of the journey consists of negotiating Cu Chi District, past the original An Phu and Phu My Hung areas, where the snaking bends and chicanes of the potted, uneven road mirror that of the Saigon River itself. Admittedly, large portions of the river are obscured by overgrown countryside, and it’s not until we reach Ben Suc Bridge on the border of Ho Chi Minh City and Binh Duong

that we get our first glimpse of the Saigon River proper.

Surrounded by green, marshy swampland and corrugated iron shacks, the scenery is sparse, which serves to only centre your attention on the river itself. Wide in breadth, the water is a murky brown, with random patches of broken tree branches being pushed along quietly by the gentle current.

A sign reads co nuoi, which means the grassy areas along the riverbank are being cultivated.

A lone, camouflaged-clad fisherman hunches over one side of the bridge, with his rod cast over the edge. Though tightlipped, he intimates that this particular spot has yet to yield his bounty of the day. In the unwavering quiet and solitude, patience is not only a virtue here, but also a bedfellow.

Underneath the bridge, a small stony path leads onto the river basin. An elderly woman stands atop several rickety old fishing canoes, picking water hyacinth stems that will eventually be sold to make furniture.

You can tell she’s done this all of her life.

Quite literally out in the sticks, this is how livings are made.

BRIDGING THE GAP For a river of its length and size, the Saigon river is badly catered for when it comes to river crossings. the thu thiem Bridge and thu thiem tunnel are welcome additions to the mélange, but as it stands, only 10 bridges and one railway bridge traverse the whole of the main river. not a great figure. But with both sides of the waterway kept separate, it means that what you find on the Ho Chi Minh City end is completely different to the developments and towns in Dong nai and Binh Duong.

Which all adds to the diversity and, of course, the need to explore.

A further 35km finally brings us to the source, and it’s hard to believe that we’re looking upon the same river that runs through the city. Trenched into a narrow, winding canal that feeds off the through flow from the stunning Dau Tieng Lake, and hidden by lush, verdant, rolling hills and exotic, colourful flowers, the water is crystal clear and clean, with not one piece of rubbish spoiling it. In spite of the weather-beaten sign that reads cam tam (swimming forbidden), the urge to jump in is almost irresistible.

It’s a wondrous and idyllic secret of a place; beautiful enough to act as a scenic backdrop for lovey-dovey newly weds.

A clay-red dirt track shrouded by huge shade-supplying trees runs alongside the river, leading back out into the rural wilderness, perfect for rambling or cycling.

The foreboding outline of Nui Ba Den (Black Widow) Mountain can also be made out to the west. A couple of derelict water towers, of Soviet-era design, stand out, adding some peculiarity to the area, while a small café on the banks of the lake provides another picturesque spot to enjoy the blissful surrounds.

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THE CANALS Mention the words canal and Saigon in the same sentence and your mind is instantly carried to the putrid waterway running through District 3 (thi nghe Canal) and the canal separating Districts 1 from District 4 (Ben nghe Canal).

And yet, not including the outlying suburban districts, this city probably has about 200 waterways. We just never see them, or if we do, it’s from the road or the bridges above.

As part of our journey along the minor waterways we start on land at thi nghe Market opposite the modern day zoo. once the location of the original central market, the north bank of the thi nghe Canal was home to the main civilian settlement outside the citadel. it was this area that was apparently known in local vernacular as Sai Gon. these days Himlam Driving range, the apartments of Pham Viet Chanh and Saigon Pearl sit where there were once swamps and wooden stilt houses. And the canal is rancid and full of sludge. All traces of the past have disappeared.

Hitting the canals outside of District 1 we first enter rach Chiec in District 2. running between thu thiem and District 9, the water level is surprisingly low, but regardless, there is still a fair amount of life along the river — factories, fishing boats, tugs, areas cleared for development and more. Heading back to the Saigon river we then go down rach go Dua. Here we find ourselves in the countryside, surrounded by water palms, farms and with only the occasional house located along the river. one villa seems properly set up for using the waterways, with three boats including a speedboat moored up outside. it is a rarity. nowhere else in our afternoon journey along the city’s canals is taking such advantage of the water.

But the special moment comes when we enter a tiny waterway in thanh Da island.

Lying almost opposite An Phu, we come across what had been described by our guide as a bamboo village. Mooring the boat and scrambling up the banks of the river, before us we see a collection of two wooden, banana-leafed roof farms. Lying below the river level but surrounded by steep banks, it is astonishing to think that such a settlement exists in modernday Ho Chi Minh City. Before the French came, much of the city would have looked like this.

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GO EAST MY FRIEND

RIVER LIFE (top left) The recently completed Phu My Bridge (left) As the river heads to the sea, fishing and agriculture become the main traides

Back in Saigon, we arrive at Bach Dang Port on Ton Duc Thang, opposite the Tran Hung Dao statue, ready to board a speedboat that will take us roughly 50km from the heart of downtown District 1 to the mouth of the Saigon River. Our guide for this part of the trip is former American hedge fund broker-turnedVietnamese-river-enthusiast, Ian Fogg, of Saigon River Express.

Originally set up in 2010 to provide a city-based water-taxi service akin to the type developed in Bangkok, Ian quickly discovered that neither the required level of infrastructure nor customer demand was in place, and reformed his business model to provide daily tours by boat to the Cu Chi Tunnels and weekly jaunts around the Mekong Delta.

As we depart, the unsightliness of this section of the Saigon River is unavoidable. However, unlike the popular misconception that places the blame on rising pollution levels, the reason is the natural ecology of the area. This is a harbour, and like all harbour water across the world it is biologically active, meaning that perpetual rising and falling tides keep the water stagnant, hindering it from flowing naturally. Hence the sewage-like appearance that unfortunately blights the most commercially visible part of the river.

Still, it doesn’t take long for this to change. Passing battered, old fishing boats that have seen better days, monstrous shipping vessels with names such as ‘Prime Skipper’, and huge yellow and blue-coloured cargo cranes, the scenery drastically improves by the time we pass through the industrial corridor of the river, on the outskirts of District 7.

The river suddenly transforms from a cloudy brown to a majestic turquoise. The sun glistens off the water and thick, luscious trees surround us on either side.

The air is also fresh, and, unlike in Europe or North America, there are hardly any other boats around, resulting in near-complete isolation. Make no mistake about it, these are pristine waterways.

Though serene, there’s not much in the way of activity yet so we press on toward the mouth. En route we pass several floating fishing villages somewhere between Can Gio and Tan Phuoc. Fenced off by barbed wire and patrolled by snarling guard dogs, the locals appear wary of outsiders and only a couple reciprocate our smiley advances with an intrigued wave. As opposed to those living and working on the main arteries of the Mekong Delta, foreign faces have not yet become familiar here, so their trepidation is understandable.

Undeterred and determined to meet some of the people that earn a crust off the water, we continue to the point where the Saigon River (or the Nha Be River, depending on your persuasion) meets the East Sea, and head east towards the province of Ba Ria-Vung Tau until we reach Long Son Village.

Having docked and successfully navigated a creaky wooden footbridge to reach the mainland, we encounter a road flanked by rows of shop houses.

Many of the buildings are tended by women drying freshly caught nautical delicacies in the mid-afternoon sun. It’s a small, sleepy sort of village, soundtracked by spluttering fishing boat motors, where the men fish by day and drink by night, and where the women oversee the day-to-day running of their local businesses while putting the world to rights.

72-year-old Le Thi Bach is one such matriarch who has lived in Long Son all her life. Widowed, but with many relatives still residing here, her husband was a fisherman and oyster farmer. According to Bach, who uses her wealth of life experience and local knowledge to “fix all problems”, fishing has been the lifeblood of this village for as long as she can remember, though the trade has experienced a boom in recent years thanks to an expanding tourism market. She points to nearby construction work and explains that the people of this once desperately poor settlement now earn enough money off the sea to build brick houses in place of their former bamboo-made shelters.

Another Long Son lifer is 67-year-old Ba Rau. A former fisherman turned local tour guide, he possesses what could be the best moustache in Vietnam. Ba Rau says that due to the limited number of fish in the area, which is mainly consumed by the village’s residents or bought in bulk by dong-fisted traders and tourists, Long Son is where young fisherman come to train and hone their skills.

Over yonder lies Long Son Floating Village. Opened four years ago, it’s a seafood restaurant that sells a variety of fish, including catfish, lobsters, and some of the biggest, thickest oysters you’ll ever see. Popular with Vietnamese holiday makers, the restaurant is surprisingly large and exudes a ramshackle charm as lopsided and cracked wooden planks combine with split-open rubber tyres to form makeshift walkways around several miniature farms housing all kinds of strange-looking sea life. And at just over VND400,000 for a kilo of shrimp it’s pricey too, but the food is as fresh you’ll find.

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THE SWAMPS

While heading back to Saigon, we divert our course through the Can Gio Biosphere Reserve. Listed by UNESCO, this 76,000-hectare area of wetland and mangrove forest is located 40km southeast of Ho Chi Minh City and is said to be home to over 150 botanical species. The intertidal mudflats and sandbanks are an important habitat for migratory shorebirds and the area performs many valuable ecological functions, including coastal stabilisation, and protection against coastal erosion, oil spills and storm surges. The mangrove forest is also a source of fuel wood and construction materials.

And yet it feels almost surprising to encounter human life here, such is the unspoiled natural beauty and tranquility.

Apart from the odd bare-chested fishermen attempting to flog a bag of crabs, your only company (to the naked eye, at least)

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comprises mudfish, more crabs, king fishers and butterflies.

Taken at a relaxed pace, Can Gio is an absolute delight for those needing no more than Mother Nature to enjoy themselves. Naturalists such as David Attenborough would be proud.

Upon returning to Bach Dang Port area, where so many of us limit our Saigon River experience to the confines of riverboat dinners, the odd ferry taxi to District 2 and hydrofoil to Vung Tau, it becomes clear that regardless of where the boundaries lie, there’s a whole lot more to Saigon’s waterways than its reputation purports. And though some may argue that an increase in commercialised tourism may disrupt or harm its current natural beauty, if developed sensitively enough, it can only lead to a win-win situation for all involved.

RESPITE ON THE RIVER With so much water in close vicinity, it seems strange that so few resort owners have taken advantage of the river. Bangkok has getaways aplenty, but until last month, Saigon only had one — Binh An Village. that all changed with the arrival of the top-end An Lam Saigon river. Propped on the banks of thuan An in Binh Duong (opposite District 12), besides its seven villas and guest rooms, there are numerous dining and drinking facilities. A spa and detox therapy adds to the mix as does a speedboat shuttle service — taking only 15 minutes to get to District 1. Which all makes An Lam a perfect hideout for anyone looking for respite from the city. And you don’t need to stay the night either — just call 0650 378 5555, book for lunch and dinner and the resort will arrange the rest.

MANGROVER (top left) The Saigon River Express speedboat in the mangroves of Thanh Da Island. (bottom) Thi Nghe Canal (top right) Around the river

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THANH DA ISLAND With the construction, concrete and uneven roads, there's a tendency to take thanh Da island at face value. it is after all yet another dilapidated, badly designed and unseemly part of this chaotic city. isn’t it?

Make this mistake and you miss out on a unique part of this metropolis. Part paddy field, part mangrove, and with tiny waterways full of blue and red fishing boats, there is an uncanny resemblance to the Mekong Delta here. this is still Ho Chi Minh City, right?

But the only island of any note lying in the Saigon river, it is also just the section by the main road, Binh Quoi, and near the bridge leading to the island that is built up. take the side roads and you are in the mangroves, paddy fields and fish farms.

Unfortunately, most island visitors tend to end up at one of the three, manicured Binh Quoi resorts. Attractive in their own right, except for bordering the river, these places are anything but thanh Da. they could be found anywhere in southern Vietnam. to see the uniqueness of this island, take rach Dua Café.

A stilted coffee shop in the swamps, this back alley café lies down a concrete road just past the serviced apartments of Saigon Domaine. Sit on a thatched stilt house over the canal or relax out back with a view of the swamps, jungle and greenery beyond. this is not the big city. there's silence here, too.

Fishing enthusiasts will also be in their element. We counted over 20 ponds set up as fishing restaurants. Here you can eat your catch or alternatively get

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the places’ chefs to cook for you. A few years ago this writer ate ca tai tuong chien xu (deep fried elephant ear fish) in one of the fishing spots. A Mekong Delta speciality served with rice paper, fresh herbs, chilli and fish sauce, it remains one of the best dishes this writer has ever tasted in this city.

We decide to drive down as many side roads as possible and taking the right-hand fork just before Binh Quoi 2, we immediately find ourselves away from the city. A development company has tried to build an area of luxury villas. only two have been completed and the rest is overgrown wasteland encroached by jungle.

Further on we stumble across a pagoda, but the residents (and their dogs) are an unfriendly sort. We’re not allowed to look inside the main building or take photos. this is a place of pilgrimage — outside the temple sits a man who has driven that morning from the Mekong Delta — but the welcome provided by the people of this 300-year-old building is hardly gracious. the roads are sand, clay and gravel tracks. Small bridges over canals break up the flatness of the terrain, and from lily ponds to rice fields and fish farms, the full range of agriculture is present. eventually we get back to the main road and take lunch out by the river at Saigon Domaine before heading down to Binh An Village. Constructed with indochine style and imperial glamour, this is the jewel in the thanh Da island crown. With its lush gardens, antique, reproduction décor and glorification of Vietnam’s past, it’s also the kind of place you can come for a day to eat and relax or stay overnight for a break from the city.

RIVER TRANSPORT

LIFE'S AN ISLAND (top & opposite page) Thanh Da Island (middle) The hydrofoil to Vung Tau (below) Phu Long Bridge between Lai Thieu in Binh Duong & District 12

take a trip down to the city’s various piers — Bach Dang and nha rong — and you’ll notice the absence of any organised public transport along the Saigon river. except, that is, if you want to take the hydrofoil to Vung tau, do a tour to Can gio or the Mekong Delta, or take a dinner cruise. As it stands, river transport is a private invested affair and with the thu thiem tunnel now open, even the publicly run ferry that conveys cars and bikes from Bach Dang to thu thiem in District 2 seems set to go.

A trip with ian Fogg on one of his 25-seater speedboats that form the fleet of Saigon river express shows how beneficial public transport along the river could actually be. the journey time from riverside Apartments in District 2 to Bach Dang Pier on ton Duc thang takes a mere seven minutes. imagine that in rush hour. no need to negotiate Saigon Bridge or thu thiem tunnel — a 45-minute or one-hour journey made fast.

From District 9, close to the borders of Dong nai and Binh Duong, the same journey is only 15 minutes. For a city struggling with congestion, public transport along the river could be an easy solution. But it needs widespread support. At present, all the progress in this area is generated from the private sector.

According to Fogg, many of the new developments sprouting up around the city have taken note. “they’re offering speedboat transfer to District 1 as part of their apartment or house buying package.

Unfortunately they don’t have any boats yet.”

Fogg, of course, hopes to capitalise on this.

At present, of the out-of-town residences, only Saigon Domaine and riverside Apartments offer speedboat transfer to the city. And only three restaurants —the Deck, BoatHouse and the restaurant at thao Dien Village — can also provide this service, but it needs to be arranged in advance.

So when will Ho Chi Minh City finally go down the route of offering a river service like that available in Bangkok? the cities are similar in size and while the Chao Phraya river is well covered in this area, the Saigon river is not. Fogg reckons that it will all start to happen over the next couple of years.

As a way to ease the burden on the city’s already crowded roads, let’s hope he’s right.

Two companies presently offer speedboat tours to Cu Chi Tunnels and The Mekong Delta. Ngoc

Phong Speedboats (www.saigonrivertour. com) and Saigon River Express (www. saigonriverexpress.com). Both also offer private speedboat hire.

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DESTINATION

The Other Hong Kong Our insider says avoid the tourist honey pots and see a different side to this eclectic, vertical city.

Photos Words and photos by Liz Moskowitz

W

hen looking at a world map, Hong Kong is usually represented by a tiny dot, or sometimes nothing at all. Other, larger countries in Southeast Asia may seem like more worthy destinations to the unknowing traveller, but maps, as we all know, don’t always accurately represent reality.

What Hong Kong may be lacking in size, it makes up for in originality. After 156 years under British colonial rule, Hong Kong is currently a special administrative region (SAR) to China; its dichotomous past has led to an eclectic present. The melding of Chinese customs and British intervention created a physical and cultural landscape that is distinctly Hong Kong, and can be seen nowhere else in the world, east or west.

Do all the things that you might otherwise miss as you rush to Victoria Peak or follow the crowds to Disneyland. As much as you can, stay outside and pay close attention, not only to speeding traffic, but also to the various anomalies you stumble across. Take time to wander different neighbourhoods and observe and participate in their quirks. Trust me, it will add a satisfying sense of adventure to your trip, and provide a story or two gratis for you to bring home with your purchased souvenirs.

Architecture

SKY HIGH A view of a housing estate from the rooftop of the Hong Kong Design Institute in Tiu Keng Leng

With over 7 million people living in an area only a third the size of Rhode Island, the US’s smallest state, Hong Kong has become the most vertical city in the world. The skyline along the coast of Victoria Harbour is rightfully one of Hong Kong’s major tourist attractions — even more so when lit up like an old-school arcade game in the evenings. Equally as fascinating are the housing estates that come in an array of pastel colors and include high-rises so tall and narrow they appear to be two-dimensional. One notable example is the Kin Ming Estate in Tseung Kwan O that houses over 22,000 people, but you can find housing estates, private or public, in every district of Hong Kong.

Take your time admiring these Lego giants while imagining how long you would have to wait for the elevator to your apartment on the 70th floor. Whether looking at them from the street, a double-decker bus, or a rooftop, it is easy to imagine you’ve stepped into a futuristic city where people live in tiny apartments in the sky. To add to the housing estates’ sci-fi vibe, curtains the colour of hospital scrubs can sometimes be seen adorning each and every window of a building; the fast-paced lifestyle of Hong Kong must leave little time for buying new curtains.

January 2012 The Word | 53

Yuen Po Street Bird Garden If Hong Kong were a suitor, a bird would be its prospective bride. Old men walk their songbirds in cages on sunny afternoons, and flamingoes dot the ponds of Kowloon Park. If you are looking for birds in large quantities, you won’t have to look far to locate an aviary. In most of Hong Kong’s parks you can find sanctuaries devoted to housing an assortment of bird species. The aviaries can sometimes be disappointing though, since the birds are either nowhere to be seen, or hidden behind netting and bars that are both dizzying and depressing to look through. For a more upclose bird experience, visit the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden in Kowloon. As you wind through this small but packed market, you will cross paths with escaped grasshoppers the size of mice and hyper birds performing back-flips in cramped cages.

Many people also bring their pets here for the opportunity to get some fresh air and to perform for an eager audience.

Perched atop a shoulder, nibbling on an ear or hanging on a finger, the birds obviously have very special relationships with their owners. Usually, neither will mind if you want to take a photo, or daringly hold the bird yourself. After you get your feathered fix, Flower Market Road is right next door, and a great way to replace the smell of birds with more pleasant aromas.

Domestic Workers on Sundays

not only allow the women to takeover large areas of space, but also block off entire streets for them.

Though the women must not always enjoy their free time sitting on the concrete ground, at least they have a designated area to do so.

Outdoor Markets and Kitchens Food is an integral part of public life in Hong Kong, and restaurants, bakeries and street food vendors are busy at all hours of the day. People are often munching on things that look either delicious or debatable, and what you think you ordered off the menu might not always be what you get. Dim sum and hot pot are two reliably tasty dishes, while other food options may only be for the strongstomached. Everyone should at least get a good look at the array of ingredients Hong Kong offers, and outdoor markets are the place to do so while giving your senses an intense workout. In Sham Shui Po, you can watch as rainbow scales fly from a fishmonger’s catch, while a butcher chops and wraps up a savoury roasted duck in three swift moves.

Bins containing hundreds of different types of dried fish, herbs and vegetables spill out of storefronts and exude an aroma best experienced and not described. Pieces of raw, red meat hang from outdoor stalls, while fresh fruit and vegetables are sold across the street.

Blinding fluorescents spotlight tofu and egg vendors, and shoppers can be seen carrying their purchases home in small red plastic bags as taxis honk at them to get out of the street.

The best time to go is during the after-work, before-dinner rush, when there is an electric feel in the air that is both exhilarating and disembodying.

Outdoor kitchens are also set-up during this time, and tables, chairs and a kitchen are quickly assembled on side streets to accommodate evening diners. Outdoor kitchens are like found objects, and can be discovered by pursuers in a small village in the New Territories or around the corner from upscale department stores in Central. The cook often uses several enormous woks to prepare meals for patrons, and dishes are scrubbed with hot water in large tubs on the ground. Plumes of steam rise from the cooking food, and bare bulbs dimly light the kitchen; the scene brings to mind sultry detective films from the 1940s. In addition to the outdoor kitchens’ striking atmosphere, the food is often delicious and always cheap. And the best part? It’s Hong Kong, so they’ll probably have an English menu.

“Whether looking at them from the street, a doubledecker bus, or a rooftop, it is easy to imagine you’ve stepped into a futuristic city where people live in tiny apartments in the sky”

Though 95 percent of Hong Kong’s population is Han Chinese, its minority groups have a strong and significant presence. One such group are the female domestic workers from Indonesia and The Philippines. Their one day-off from work is Sundays, and since they live with their employers, they don’t have homes of their own to relax in. As a result, thousands of them congregate outdoors, create shelters using cardboard, tarps and blankets and spend the day catching up with friends and family they haven’t seen all week. Kowloon Park and Victoria Park are some of the best places to see women in matching sweat suits performing in hip hop competitions or eating brightly coloured meals that look like edible art. Some of the domestic workers are Muslim, and in quiet areas of the parks, you can hear their music as they pray in beautifully designed headscarves.

Don’t worry about casually walking by and respectfully observing different groups’ rituals; the women are accustomed to having their Sunday lives on public display. Surprisingly, the authorities

HIDDEN HONG KONG (Clockwise from Top Left:) A cage full of brightly colored birds at the Yuen Po Street Garden in Prince Edward, A fishmonger couple prepares and sells fish in an outdoor wet market in Prince Edward, A cook in an outdoor kitchen in Central looks out from his work area, Two women in matching outfits enjoy their day-off together in Victoria Park

January 2012 The Word | 55

TET SPECIAL

Let's Talk About Tet, Baby Christmas may have usurped much of the festive thunder this year, but Tet remains the most significant spiritual celebration on the Vietnamese calendar. As everyone prepares to close one year and look ahead to the next, Word relives the rituals and have compiled a guide to help you survive this Lunar New Year. Photos by Charles Barnes

W

hile Tet falls between Jan. 22 to Jan. 25 this year, the ball starts rolling at least a month before.

The buzz at street level goes up a notch, people begin to wrap up their business affairs in order to start the New Year with a clean slate and everyone takes to the streets to buy food, drink and new clothing for the new moon. As most markets and shops will close for the duration, the streets are packed with families piling their motorbikes high with provisions and little luxuries to give as gifts or to share with guests.

Another important preparation is to make offerings to Ong Tau, the kitchen or hearth god.

The story goes that he will return to the heavens to report to the Jade emperor on the comings and goings of the household for the year on the 23rd day of the lunar month, and in order to sweeten his tongue, the family will make an offering to ensure he departs in a benevolent mood. Practically every family stocks up with special Tet foods, such as banh tet or banh chung — sticky rice parcels packed with green mung beans and pork, red watermelon seeds and mut, sweet dried fruits wrapped in paper for the festivities.

Every year, once the clock has struck midnight on New Year’s Eve, the city erupts into a cacophony of sounds and colours.

Everywhere in the neighbourhood families take to the streets on their way to the temple.

The Vietnamese also believe that if good things come to the household on the first day, the whole year will be filled with blessings.

Some wealthy families book lion dancing troupes to come and perform in front of the house, and if one dances in front of your home without being invited, it is considered especially lucky. The first person invited to enter the home is chosen very carefully — their sign must complement that of the

56 | The Word January 2012

owner. If they are a good friend, it is hoped they will bring warmth and goodwill to the household. To guard against visitors that unwittingly bring bad luck, the first day is usually reserved for visiting close family members, unless you’ve been invited as the honoured favourable guest. The second day is for extended family and close friends and the third is for everyone else.

Forecast for 2012 The Water Dragon — 2012 is the year of the water dragon, and while dragons are associated with fire, for this year, being near water will be a good thing.

Those born in the Year of the Dragon can look forward to a year of flamboyance, new beginnings and good fortune. For those seeking to start a new business, the Year of the Dragon will be a good time to do so. According to the 2012 horoscope, anyone who is born in the Year of the Dragon will be very lucky. That could mean the start of a happy marriage, the beginning of a successful business or a lucky lottery win. Whatever happens, the 2012 Year of the Dragon horoscope says that it will be a flamboyant year.

Other signs that will be lucky in 2012 are those born in the Year of the Snake and the Year of the Rat as they are compatible with the dragon. So if they need to start new ventures, 2012 is the right year to start them.

What is Lucky Money?

‘Lucky money’ or li xi is given by the older and superior, to the younger and subordinate.

Parents and grandparents, aunts and uncles, give lucky money to children. People give money to their friends' children, teachers give lucky money to students, and management gives lucky money to employees.

Lucky money is given in little red envelopes that you can buy in bookstores or

on the street. The amounts may not be huge — often between VND10,000 and VND50,000 a go for children and more for adults — but for the children it is a lot and when many people give lucky money it can all add up.

Lucky money is given during the first few days of the Lunar New Year, but a little before that and a little after is also accepted.

It is traditionally important to give new bank notes, which also symbolises more luck for the receivers.

PLACES TO WATCH THE FIREWORKS Lunar new Year’s eve fireworks start from midnight and run for 15 minutes. the following locations will be used for setting off the fireworks. So, find a vantage point close by and watch the skies.

- Caric shipyard in Thu Thiem, Q2 - Administration Centre Construction Project, Tan Phu Ward, Q7 - Go Vap Park, Go Vap District - Nga Ba Giong Memorial Park in Hoc Mon - Ben Duoc Memorial Park in Cu Chi - Park of Culture and Ethnic History in District 9 - Dam Sen Park in District 11

GETTING AWAY if you want to go to another part of Vietnam by plane, train or bus, or wish to travel to China, Singapore, Hong Kong or taiwan and have yet to buy tickets, you may have to re-plan. tickets for transportation tend to sell out early — at the time of writing, except for business class, all Vietnam Airlines flights between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City around the tet period were fully booked.

A classic destination for people living in Saigon is Phnom Penh. But even bus tickets to Cambodia’s capital sell out early.

So, book in advance. And if you want to have space in Mui ne, nha trang or any other holiday destinations along the coast, forget it. the places will be packed. the general motto is book early, wherever you’re planning to go. Alternatively, enjoy Ho Chi Minh City at its quietest and most relaxed by staying at home. it’s a great time of the year.

A special thanks to Santa Fe Relocation Services (www.santaferelo.com) for their help in compiling this special Tet survival guide.

January 2012 The Word | 57

COMMON GREETINGS FOR TET — Chuc mung nam moi (Happy new Year) — used on shop displays or in very formal situations — Song lau tram tuoi (Live long to 100 years) — used by children for elders — An khang thinh vuong (Security, good health and prosperity) — Van su nhu y (May a myriad of things go accordingly to your wishes) — Suc khoe doi dao (Plenty of health) — Cung hi phat tai from the Cantonese gung hay fat choy (Congratulations and be prosperous) — Cho tien vo nhu nuoc (May money flow in like water) — used informally

FLOWER MARKETS Favourite tet cut flowers and potted plants consist of red or pink peach blossom (hoa dào), forsythialike blossom (mai vàng), chrysanthemum and kumquat.

While there will be countless ad hoc places sprouting along roads and, the biggest markets are at 23/9 Park in District 1, gia Dinh Park in Binh thanh and Le Van tam Park in District 3. the whole of nguyen Hue is also pedestrianized and closed to traffic and becomes part flower market and part central area to celebrate the new year.

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REVELLERS BEWARE - Unless asked, do not set foot in anybody’s dwelling on the 1st day of tet. in a number of households, the father or sometimes the whole family is/are the first visitor(s). Many people pick out a propitious time and direction to leave their dwellings. Most shops, companies and businesses are very serious about picking the most auspicious date and time to reopen.

- Be extremely careful when going out because this is the time where there tends to be many thieves looking for opportunities to steal valuables. Pickpockets at the city’s flower markets are classic. So, double check your doors and windows before going out. Put your wallet, mobile phone and other valuables in safe places. Stay away from the crowd because most thieves tend to blend in looking for easy opportunities to steal.

- During the first two or three days of tet, the streets in Ho Chi Minh City are almost empty. However, due to the amount of alcohol consumed and the holiday atmosphere, drivers are even more careless and dangerous than usual. So, avoid motorbike drives out of the city, where the roads can get packed and particularly dangerous.

- in the run up to tet, drivers should have their proper driver’s licence, motorbike or car insurance papers, ownership papers, etc. with them when on the roads because traffic officers are especially vigilant during this period.

- Stock up in advance on groceries and food because supermarkets and markets will either be closed or skyrocket their prices. the freezer is particularly useful during tet. in the week preceding the festivities, prices can often double or triple. So, buy meat early and freeze.

January 2012 The Word | 59

Mystery Diner Can a Japanese dessert café that claims to be the “ministry of food” and our pick of one of the “Best New Restaurants” in 2010 dazzle our discerning critic? Find out. Photos by EJ Chung

Located in a converted warehouse between the Sunwah and Bitexco towers in the heart of District 1, Flow has steadily garnered itself a decent reputation for serving upscale European fare with subtle Asian influences in a tasteful setting.

Upstairs from the narrow street-level bar lies a sparsely designed and partly partitioned open-plan dining hall. A long, deep-red upholstered bench and a large, walk-in glass wine cabinet flank either side of the room while a four-piece jazz band plays unobtrusively in the background, providing ambiance music while we survey the menu.

With starters such as pumpkin soup with almond cream and Serrano crouton, and Wagyu beef steak tartar ranging from VND100,000 to VND190,000, and mains like mushroom and blue leg prawn risotto, and grilled tenderloin with baked almond cassava cake and grilled asparagus with truffle sauce in the vicinity of VND210,000 to VND385,000, it makes sense to take advantage of the restaurant’s “Share The Flow” option at VND400,000 per person.

The concept allows customers to choose six smaller-sized versions of dishes from the a la carte menu, apart from those containing

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FLOW SAIGON 88 Ho tung Mau, Q1. tel: 3915 3691

THE PRICES Share the Flow VND400,000 per person

THE VERDICT Food: 11.5 Décor : 12 Service: 12.5

truffles. A minor disappointment, but there’s still enough choice on offer.

We’re first served the salmon and scallop cake with leek oil sauce, pomelo and caramelised pine nuts, and radicchio salad with scallops, tomato, feta cheese and balsamic reduction. The former is light and fluffy on the inside while crispy and crunchy on the outside, with the salmon providing a beautiful depth and the scallops a delicate sweetness, balancing out the spices. Laid on a bed of white-vein red leaves, the latter dish is sharper and tangier, enlivening the taste buds with the sweetness of the tomato and balsamic reduction, and the bitterness of the radicchio.

The rib eye steak with creamy polenta and sautéed spinach with thyme gravy sauce, and spicy chicken salad with mango, grilled vegetables and tarragon dressing are paired up next. The steak is cooked to a perfect mediumrare but doesn’t truly spark to life until combined with the salty sautéed spinach and aromatic thyme gravy, while the polenta, made from boiled cornmeal, is smooth, yet grainy with subtle hints of mustard peppering its dry and solid composition.

Unfortunately, the neighbouring chicken isn’t as spicy as expected and comes smothered in a generic-tasting sweet chilli sauce, though the fennel and licorice that lilts through the tarragon dressing makes for a fine layering over the over-ripe slices of mango.

Our final two dishes arrive separately, beginning with the soft shell crab coated in oatmeal breading, served with glazed sour onion, grilled abalone mushroom and spicy crustace sauce, followed by a bowl of seafood ravioli with tomato ricotta sauce and spring onion and olive oil.

The crab tastes extremely fresh and meaty, as do the accompanying prawns, and the slices of abalone mushroom are spongy and dense with an earthy and buttery flavour. The ravioli, on the other hand, while fine in its on right, is brought up to a whole new level thanks to the tomato ricotta sauce. Rich and creamy, it’s spectacular. I find myself lapping up spoonful after spoonful, first with bread, then with whatever utensil I can find.

Overall, Flow is a top-notch restaurant.

The quality of the food and service is akin to the level found in many mid-to-high-end restaurants in most major western European cities. And though considered pricy for Saigon, you’ll find that it’s worth going the extra mile for.

highway4

MOF Japanese Sweets & Cafe Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 tel: 3880 3047 Ministry Of Food (MOF) Japanese Sweets & Cafe is an unlikely choice for our Mystery Diner review because it’s known more for cakes, ice creams and beverages than its savoury offerings.

Indeed, a skim through the menu reveals a heavy emphasis on health-conscious, organic drinks and desserts, with an overwhelming number of frappes, shakes, smoothies, yoghurts, Japanese matchas, gelatos, parfaits and more front-loading the first half. It’s not until the back end that you hit the savoury items, which consist of ramen, udon and yaki noodle dishes, bento boxes, curries, rice dishes and an assortment of Japanese snacks.

Unfamiliar with MOF’s main courses, we opt for several different dishes including tori curry don (chicken curry with rice), a bowl of shoyu ramen and a portion of gyoza (dumplings).

Choosing drinks, however, proves much more difficult with such a wide number of choices. Exhibiting some control, I eventually settle on a glass of ice matcha kanten (powdered green tea with a scoop of green tea ice cream and cubes of semi-translucent jelly).

Said to contain antioxidants, its deep-green appearance certainly intrigues. Made from lotus root, the kanten jelly is imported from Japan and is claimed to contain zero calories and even slimming properties. Regardless of the accuracy of the claims, this drink is definitely one for green tea lovers. Thin yet malty in texture, with a pistachio-esque aftertaste, it’s a viable alternative to an iced coffee.

Now onto the food. The tori curry don arrives first. A large breaded chicken breast sliced into seven individual strips sits atop a generous helping of steamed rice, and opposite a dark brown pool of thick curry gravy containing chunks of potato, onion and carrot. Not in the least spicy, fans of mild Indian kormas and stroganoffs will enjoy this. However, on this occasion the veggies are too soft and lack earthiness, though the dish is ultimately redeemed by the tender, crispy chicken and rich curry gravy. It’s a

THE PRICES solid lunchtime option.

The six gyoza dumplings appear pan fried and possibly steamed latterly.

Bursting with a fragrant garlic flavour, each morsel is packed with minced pork and comes with a small bowl of soy sauce.

The dough-based shells are cooked al dente, preventing them from falling apart when not consumed in one mouthful, and our only minor complaint is their overly oily texture.

And unless your hunger pangs are nearly insatiable, the large bowl of shoyu ramen is a dish best shared. Swimming in a clear soy-based broth with curly ramen noodles, the combination of thinly sliced pork, strong-smelling bamboo shoots, green onions, bean sprouts and a split-open hard boiled egg, makes for a big and hearty feed. Tangy and salty, it’s surprisingly light on the palette, and a good alternative to pho.

We finish up with a slice of caramel mousse cake and a portion of waffles.

This is where MOF truly comes into its own. Drizzled in yummy, sticky syrup and accompanied by a scoop of premium Hokkaido gelato (we choose a cookies and cream flavour), sliced strawberries and whipped cream, the waffles are delicious. Although originally frozen, they’re still crispy on the outside and wonderfully warm and soft in the middle.

The caramel mousse cake is unbelievably light and airy, perfect with a cup of tea or coffee.

When it comes to the sweet things in life, MOF is nearly peerless. However, with so many Japanese restaurants here offering similar savoury Japanese delicacies, MOF will have to overcome its competition before it’s considered an allround food destination.

ice matcha kanten VND75,000 tori curry don VND148,000 Shoyu ramen VND148,000 gyoza VND60,000 Waffles VND80,000 Caramel mousse cake VND35,000

THE VERDICT Food: 8.5 Décor : 9 Service: 9.5

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 – 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 – 12.5 very good to excellent 8 – 9.5 good to very good 5 – 7.5 fair to good 0 – 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals January 2012 The Word | 61

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SOUND & VISION

Ground Zero

ZeroStation is attracting some of the most experimental artists from Ho Chi Minh City and beyond. Johnny Rebours meets the gallery’s curator to find out about the merits of creating dialogue. Photos by EJ Chung translate into ZeroStation.

During its existence, ‘a little blah blah’ worked closely with local artists to put on workshops, exhibitions and live performances in any venues they could find. They intentionally chose not to have their own physical space, thus giving them greater freedom in the scope and variety of their art. However, the lack of a base meant they couldn’t run any projects in the long-term, something the ambitious Huy struggled with.

Art for All and All for Art

“We try to set the conditions for dialogue to happen,” asserts Nguyen Nhu Huy in a relaxed but commanding tone. His friendly demeanour yet intense enthusiasm for his work at ZeroStation makes for interesting conversation.

The dialogue he speaks so impassionedly of is between the artist and the world around them. In a city famed for it’s reproductive artworks scanned onto screens and filled in with oil paints, Huy’s vision is defiantly original.

Having graduated from the Ho Chi Minh City University of Fine Arts in 1997, Huy received scholarships to study in France and America. Picking the latter, he sites his time in North America as “a very important moment. Art there was not like what we were taught in university in Vietnam”.

His mind had been exposed to new forms of art and expression, and with a group of likeminded friends, he founded an online contemporary arts magazine in Vietnam upon his return.

Spending two years collectively running the publication, and bearing the financial burden on their own shoulders, Huy and his contemporaries were eventually forced to close the website down.

“We needed to earn money to live,” he chuckles, now able to reminisce fondly on those hand-to-mouth days.

Although a big hit on the Asian arts scene, and certainly a first in Vietnam, Huy decided a change of direction was needed. Joining his friends from Japan and Australia in the art collective ‘a little blah blah’ appears to have sewn the seeds that form the basis of his ideas that

He therefore counts himself lucky when, at the beginning of 2010, he found a space to use as his own and it is here that he has invested many of ideals — the need to be involved in all sections of local community and to provide a space where everyone is free to discuss and express their feelings on contemporary art.

The five full-time staff, including Mifa, Huy’s cheerful general assistant, all aspire to maintain ZeroStation’s core values of “learning by doing” — a reaction to stale university lectures — and learning “how to be moveable between acting and action”.

Changing premises in 2011, ZeroStation now stands at Hem 288, Nam Ky Khoi Nghia in District 3. Entering the alley, the bright yellow garage door stamped with the black ZeroStation/ga 0 logo is impossible to miss, its motto ‘A House for Creativity’ beaming out onto the road.

A bright graffiti piece adorns the wall. According to Huy this project “evolved into a mural, describing the faces of some of the people living here”. Grand and complex, it’s a reflection of an amalgamation of original ideas completed by a mixture of local and foreign artists.

Identity Huy comes across as a well read individual, knowledgeable in his field. He says French scholar Michel de Certeau inspired him to “follow the rules but keep [his] own identity, [and] interpret the rules into [his] culture”. This is how ZeroStation has been able to stay at the forefront of the contemporary art scene in Vietnam.

He has even invited members of the local authority to attend a workshop to find out their views on contemporary art. “If there is no dialogue, everything would be rules… and if you want to have dialogue, you must be the first one… So I gave them my translation on contemporary art for them to keep!” he chuckles at his ballsy approach.

Two types of artist residency are offered at ZeroStation and are split into ‘Packet’ and ‘Intensive’. In a Packet residency a visiting artist can stay for a week in the accommodation provided upstairs at ZeroStation, on the condition that they contribute somehow to the community, be it via a workshop, concert or performance.

An Intensive residency sees a foreign artist invited for one month to engage in a dialogue with a local artist. The two artists are encouraged to share ideas, evolve, negotiate, argue, create conflict and reach an agreement to eventually produce a piece at the end of the residency.

Hoping to host more of the latter in 2012, along with the Moving Image Weekends series, where contemporary films will be shown to the public on Saturdays and Sundays beginning in January, ZeroStation is always evolving.

For further information, visit www.zerostationvn.org

January 2012 The Word | 63

SOUND & VISION

It’s Good to Talk

One year ago, four independent creative types put their heads together and decided it was time to bring a new element to the creative industry in Ho Chi Minh City. With a different speaker presenting to the group once a month on a topic relating to the arts, James Allen looks at how far Saigon Creative has come in their first year

T

here are more than enough industry networking events to be found around Saigon. Complete with complimentary alcohol and raffles, participants have to be confident enough to work a room professionally whilst under the influence.

However, noticing a lack of open dialogue in the field of creative discourse, George Nguyen, Mads Monsen, Sandrine Llouquet and David Everett Carlson decided to set up Saigon Creative, an independent and collaborative series of free, monthly talks held by the city’s diverse array of creative professionals.

“During normal networking events you have to initiate everything, and if you aren’t a person who feels comfortable with that, then you don’t find any value in it,” says commercial photographer Mads.

A co-founder of Saigon Creative, the Norwegian arrived in Vietnam 10 years ago and, after attending enough networking parties for a lifetime, decided to set up something a little out of the norm.

“Saigon Creative is different,” he explains.

“There’s no alcohol and it’s in the morning, so the strongest drink you get is coffee and one hour of something completely different to your profession.”

Based on Tina Roth Eisenberg’s New York Creative Mornings model, which started in 2009, the Saigon group was established with the same principles in mind. “We thought it was a good idea,” explains TBWA managing director George Nguyen. “It’s created a platform for conversation — a key part I really like. There’s no agenda and it isn’t just an excuse to drink.”

Eisenberg, who heads up an influential design blog, “a bible”, as Mads puts it, has a policy of only allowing people she knows personally to run chapters carrying the Creative Morning moniker, of which there are currently 17 worldwide. “We wanted to do something like this, and hopefully down the road we will become an official chapter. It would raise our profile,” says Mads.

A Thirst for Arts All four founders share one main concern regarding, as Sandrine Llouquet puts it, “a

64 | The Word January 2012

lack of information here concerning art and creation”. According to George, this opinion is widely felt.

“There is a big gaping hole for things here, whether it’s facilitated by Saigon Creative, San Art, or by any number of exhibitions being put on,” he says. “There’s a real craving and a hunger for this type of thing.”

Having hosted 11 speakers, the meetings are well on their way to addressing the “gaping hole” described by George, however, according to the founders, finding a steady stream of candidates ready to stand up and talk is one of the more challenging aspects, as is the way they express themselves.

But George and his colleagues work hard to make sure the topic is always relevant for the majority. For the inaugural meeting, Vietnamese actor Dustin Nguyen first discussed with George whether he should speak about his movies or experiences as an actor before agreeing to talk about balancing commerce and creativity. By massaging the topics, the audience, which is generally made up of a diverse cross-section of individuals from chemical engineers and housewives to production designers and image consultants, is able to take away something valuable from each presentation.

“Here I mostly miss a rich visual arts scene,” explains art practitioner and RMIT lecturer Cristina Nualart. A dedicated attendee of Saigon Creative since the beginning, Cristina “love[s] having a good discussion about art”. Hearing about the lectures online, Cristina was keen not to miss out on such a rare opportunity. “In London I was spoilt for choice with hundreds of weekly talks, exhibitions, workshops and performances to choose from. And though the options here are more limited than elsewhere, I try to stay alert to what’s on.”

Attending nearly all of the presentations since January, Cristina is now keen to give her own talk on the creative process that has “generated some of the most incredible art pieces seen in Europe”, a prospect that George is thrilled about. “For me, the best part about Cristina talking is that it’s the ultimate goal of this thing. Here is someone who just regularly attended because she was

interested and then decided that she had something interesting to say.”

Adie Hart, a brand strategy consultant points out that even though the meetings don’t always directly impact his daily work, the themes and issues talked about are still relevant. And as for the effect it has on this city’s creative industry, Adie hopes that it’s a positive one. “The fact that it’s started and it’s there to get people talking and sharing experiences is a great thing.”

Onwards and Upwards The future of Saigon Creative now lies in the hands of Sandrine, George and Mads (David Everett Carlson having since relocated to the US). And apart from the challenging task of finding inspirational speakers, they are also looking towards making the meetings even more accessible for Vietnamese speakers and attendees.

“Our big weakness is that this is in many ways an expat activity, the talks are held in English,” explains George, who is keen for the meetings to become more integrated and open to local culture. “The whole point is to contribute to the local community.”

The group is also hoping to eventually move out of advertising agency TBWA’s building, where the meetings are currently held. Though they acknowledge that holding the talks at TBWA allows a certain amount of flexibility, moving would enable the meetings to take place in a more neutral space. With these changes, Saigon Creative would continue to work toward Sandrine’s notion that “art often inspires the creative industry”.

And if Saigon Creative’s founders have learned anything it’s that bemoaning the perceived lack of cultural events in the city or the absence of spirited, impassioned debates will get you nowhere. As George rightly points out, “you have to go out and actively seek it”. Evidence of this determination and strong ethos is succinctly summed up by Mads, who says, “We want to learn something, we want inspiration and if we can’t find it, we will go out and create it.”

For more information, visit www. saigoncreative.blogspot.com. The Saigon Creative presentations take place once a month on the middle Friday.

GETTING CREATIVE:

phOtOs prOvIdEd By saIgOn crEatIvE

Some of Saigon Creative's key speakers over the past year (middle photo) George Nguyen, Mads Monsen and Sandrine Llouquet; the brains behind the group

FASHION

wHETHER YOu fiND SERENiTY iN STRiPES, a PaSSiON fOR PaNDEMONiuM OR SiMPlE PlEaSuRE iN PlaiD, DON’T bE afRaiD TO ExPERiMENT TO fiND YOuR PaTTERN bEHaViOR

PaTTERN

bEHa

ViOuR STYliNg bY JaMES allEN PHOTOS bY EJ CHuNg

From LeFt: HAREM PANTS Ethophen VND6,330,000

AO DAI Ethophen VND4,080,000

KAFTAN Roxy VND2,260,000

JACKET Ethophen VND5,960,000

HAREM PANTS Ethophen VND6,950,000

LEGGINGS Ethophen VND1,980,000

66 | The Word January 2012

January 2012 The Word | 67

From LeFt: BEANIE Marshall Artist stocked at L’usine VND662,000 SHIRT Levis VND1,599,000 TANK TOP Levis VND999,000 CORD 3/4S Levis VND1,899,000

68 | The Word January 2012

TRILBY Quicksilver VND690,000

DRESS Levis VND2,299,000

SHIRT DRESS Levis VND,1,999,000

SHRUG Levis VND1,799,000

From LeFt: TANK TOP Mr. Simple stocked at L’usine VND520,000

Where to buy: PLAYSUIT Old Navy stocked at Mr. and Mrs. Smith VND310,000

LEVIS 86 Nguyen Trai, Q1

ETHOPHEN 89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1

MR. AND MRS. SMITH 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1

L’USINE 151 Dong Khoi, Q1

ROXY AND QUICKSILVER 151 Nguyen Trai St, Q1

MODElS: NgaN NguYEN HElEN RObbENS TREVOR MaTHiS lOCaTiON: KOTO RESTauRaNT January 2012 The Word | 69

City Guide BusInEss lIstIngs 072 / dEstInatIOn lIstIngs 080 / Out & aBOut lIstIngs 092 / sOund & vIsIOn lIstIngs 107 lEIsurE & wEllnEss lIstIngs 113 / lIfEstylE lIstIngs 121 / gEnEratIOn v lIstIngs 129 PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY PHOTO

ADD ITIONA L FE AT URE S

Destination Zero 082 Travel Promos 086 Foodie Corner 096 Cafe Critique 102 Food Promos 104 For The Record 107 Road Rules 108 Decks 'n' Drums 110 In The Frame 111 70 | The Word January 2012

BUSINESS

lIstIngs

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 072 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 072 BUSINESS CONSULTING 073 BUSINESS GROUPS 074 CONSUMER GIFTS 074 EVENT MANAGEMENT 074 EXPAT SERVICES 075 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 075 INSURANCE 075 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 076

accounting & auditing BUREAU VERITAS

E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM

11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam A member firm of Deloitte Touche

72 | The Word January 2012

KPMG visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 076 LAUNDRY 076 LEGAL SERVICES 076 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 076 MARKET RESEARCH 077 PUBLIC RELATIONS 078 RECRUITMENT & HR 078 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 079 SERVICED APARTMENTS 079

Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266 www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED

7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting.

Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more.

Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands,

with over 100 offices in 75 countries.

Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

advertising & marketing ADMAKER

Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM

Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1 Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group.

Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

BBDO VIETNAM

74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

business COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies.

Wholly owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM

13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING

1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

GREY GROUP

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network.

Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PHIBIOUS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region.

Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PSDESIGN

media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

3 Phan Van Dat, Q1. Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

TBWA\VIETNAM

Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3824 5315. www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50 Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

XONE FM

Tel: 0933 244270 www.psdesign.asia A multidisciplinary Dutch design studio specialising in graphic & web design, architecture & interior design, and photography. Offers a total brand experience ranging from providing a visual identity to an office interior and everything in between.

100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7. Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

PURPLE ASIA

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1. Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

business consulting BDG VIETNAM

10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn An independent, full–service branding and marketing agency focused on communications and brand building. The team, established in Vietnam for many years, is a blend of international expertise and local know–how capable of giving marketers clever ways to connect their brands with consumers for winning results.

11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

RIVER ORCHID

CONCETTI

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital,

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1. Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

ERNST & YOUNG

8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO

www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED

8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE

6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1. Tel: 3823 6770. www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement

January 2012 The Word | 73

business strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1. Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing.

Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a long-term strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of researchbased best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1. Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market research.

Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

74 | The Word January 2012

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

business groups AMCHAM

business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

CANCHAM

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754. www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

NORDCHAM

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM

Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

25 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British

12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423. www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

C3 Floor 5, 21-Century Apartment, 326/1 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh. www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1. Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2.

Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a non-governmental, non-political, nonprofit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

consumer gifts AMBRIj VIETNAM LTD.

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1. Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

event management GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services.

Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD 140B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning

business business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

eXpat services CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916 www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

housing & real estate CBRE

Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news.

Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707 www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

EASY SAIGON

www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

KNIGHT FRANK

Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 6777 www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION

24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Hotline: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

PLATINUM1

Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD. Real value in a changing world

Jones lang lasalle vietnam

26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate.

As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam.

Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

SNAP

www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental

properties all around the city with full listings available online.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE NEST

369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale.

Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM) Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam.

Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

insurance BAOVIET INSURANCE

Tel: 3825 8416 www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40

January 2012 The Word | 75

business billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits.

Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

IF CONSULTING

1A Me Linh Square, Q1 Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

PRUDENTIAL

Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

investment & finance DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP

www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates.

Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities. Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash–flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

76 | The Word January 2012

VINACAPITAL

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

language schools APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING

26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM

28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 Tel: 3827 7991 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM

51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER

33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492 www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese lessons, including extracurricular activities during the holidays.

VLS SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of

special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session. Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

ents, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIzED)

BAKER & MCKENzIE

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3836 4344 / 0917 277169 vnccentre@gmail.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provide Vietnamese language training by experienced qualified teachers and certified/notarized translation by experts for various materials and documents, from a page to a book.

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

laundry COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING

Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4 Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MR CLEAN

16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1 Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

legal services ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate cli-

12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS INTERNATIONAL LAWYERS

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm licensed as a foreign law company in Vietnam, Frasers provides legal advice on all areas of business and commerce within the country.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN jSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860 www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

management training BRAINBOX VIETNAM

5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405 www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several

business business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

market research CIMIGO

88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

G&H

EPINION

6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients.

Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

RMIT

11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Con-

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development.

MEKONG RESEARCH

January 2012 The Word | 77

business sulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM

13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies.

With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan. Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a global information and measurement company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties. Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

TNS VIETNAM

105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1. Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

public relations MANDARIN MEDIA

www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT

company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/crisis management.

MASS GROUP

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS

Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1 el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

recruitment & hr HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT jSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA) MANPOWER VIETNAM 1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT

outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries.

NAVIGOS GROUP

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM RO

2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM

(formally Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

Ho Chi Minh City Open 9 am - 7 pm everyday

Hanoi Open 9 am - 9 pm everyday

64 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 Tel: 083 914 2119

13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3926 4831

NEW SHOP: 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 NEW SHOP: S17-Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh Phu My Hung, District 7

www.mekong-quilts.org 78 | The Word January 2012

business relocation & tracking agents ALLIED PICKFORDS 2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services.

In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD.

2nd Floor, 216 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 9484 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS

48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 4237 www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

jASMINE COURT

307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes.

Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a four-fixture en suite with shower.

NORFOLK MANSION

17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS

6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment.

Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM

SEDONA SUITES

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network.

Also local, domestic and office moves.

Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one– to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

jVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4 Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam.

SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

serviced apartments CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished

127 Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a toprated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK

5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

January 2012 The Word | 79

destination

DESTINATION lIstIngs

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

DALAT 080 HANOI 083 AROUND HANOI 083 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 084 HCMC DELUXE 085 HCMC MID-RANGE 086 HCMC BUDGET 086 HOI AN & DA NANG 087 HUE & QUANG BINH 088 NHA TRANG 088 PHAN THIET & MUI NE 089

PHU QUOC 090 SAPA 090 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 090 TRAVEL SERVICES 090 ARTICES DESTINATION ZERO 082 TRAVEL NOTES 084 TRAVEL PROMOS 086

is located on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre. Guests also enjoy a 10 percent discount at V Café.

dalat ANA MANDARA VILLAS

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING GYM GYM GYM

SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING GYM GYM POOL POOL POOL SWIMMING SWIMMING BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

DALAT PALACE

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

CREDIT CARD CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL CREDIT

CREDIT CARD

RESTO-BAR

SMOKING

GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

RESTO-BAR SWIMMING RESTO-BARPOOL SMOKING SMOKING BUSINESS

GYM GYM

SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL

ICONS 101 CREDIT

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LA SAPINETTE DALAT

SWIMMING POOL

BUSINESS

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat, Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD

RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR

SMOKING SMOKING

GYM GYM

SWIMMING SWIMMINGPOOL POOL

BUSINESS BUSINESS

$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

BUSINESS

PRICE RANGE

BUSINESS

$

BELOW VND630,000

$$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

BUSINESS

BUSINESS FACILITIES

CREDIT

80 | The Word January 2012

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151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular.

You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND200,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD GYM CARD

$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, the Dalat Green City Hotel is a no-frills budget option. Newly refurbished, the 12 guestrooms are basic but provide free Wi-Fi. A single room without breakfast barely dents the wallet at VND20,000 per night, while a double room is charged at VND250,000. Add breakfast and the rates are slightly higher. A coffee shop

SWIMMING GYM GYM GYM GYM POOL SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING BUSINESS POOL POOL POOL POOLBUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

DREAMS HOTEL

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match.

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING GYM

$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat. Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms.

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

dEstInatIOn PHOTOS BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

ZERO

laO Cai

most people pass through lao cai on their way to sapa, but this city has got more to offer than just its historic train station

6

am in Lao Cai and the mist is rising over the river. The night could have been cold, but from the warmth and comfort of the overnight train it's difficult to tell. Out in the fresh December air, the city is starting to rise.

Following Nguyen Hue along the river we come out to the Friendship Bridge, the thoroughfare between Vietnam and its northern neighbour. Here, the most influential waterway of the north, the Red River, splits in two. The Lam Thi River runs along the border before heading into the Highlands. The Red River also separates the two countries, but it's at Lao Cai that this great river finally starts flowing south in its arduous passage towards Hanoi and then onwards through to the sea.

We follow the Lam Thi River. What starts as an unkempt, paved promenade turns into manicured gardens with palm trees, sub-tropical foliage and a path with chrome railing.

“Everyone in Lao Cai speaks Mandarin,” says a woman taking an early stroll along the river. It's not the local dialect of the town on the other side, but it is widely understood.

She adds: “We're Vietnamese, so we can cross over the bridge. [Foreigners] need a visa.”

Despite the fact that Lao Cai is a city, the vegetable and fruit gardens still remain, as do the forested mountains. We find a woman tending her crops on the muddy banks of the river. She is filling up her can and then watering her plants. But she is dressed well, without the garb of the countryside peasant.

Her gardening, it seems, is a hobby.

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We leave the spot to discover later that behind us sits Chua Thuong, the city's best-known pagoda. Built around a giant, age-old banyan tree and facing the Lam Thi River, part of the complex is being restored while the kitsch stone and marble renderings of the 12 signs of the zodiac remain open to the public.

Striving to the Future At first sight, little seems to have changed in Lao Cai over the last decade. It is still a sleepy border town flanked by mountains on either side. But the construction has started.

A few high-rises like the Biti Tower now fill the skyline and the bridge over Song Hong to Coc Leu is being widened. Work is ongoing here and a completion date seems ominous.

Back in town the tourism madness has taken hold, too. With Sapa so close by, Lao Cai has become a magnet. Hotels, restaurants and more have sprung up from out of the mist. Le Bordeaux sits on one corner, selling western and, we guess, French fare including the ubiquitous "buger". Further on the Emotion chain is at work. They now have an Emotion hotel, an Emotion cafe and, we think, even an Emotion spa.

But how many tourists actually make it beyond the confines of the station car park is a mystery. Most get off the trains, take in the mixed Soviet-style Vietnamese architecture of the station, and then head up to the hills. We ask the station guards when the train we travelled on was built. After some consultation they decide on the year 1985.

There's history here, but everyone misses it.

We found some more history on the

forested mountain that runs behind the city. Up here a couple, Van and Hoa, live with their 10 dogs, vegetable patches and youngest son. Van was born here and the land has been in his family for generations, and except for a 12-year period where security considerations meant he had to vacate the land — they moved to Yen Bai — they have been here ever since.

Van, like most other residents, has seen the city change. Originally built on the confluence of the rivers, it has now been moved back to the train station on one side — now called Pho Moi — and Coc Leu over the river. Much of Coc Leu, its highways and multi-storey buildings, are new.

And in this area of Lao Cai is probably the best mural we've seen in Vietnam. The equivalent of Vietnam's Guernica it charts everything from roots of the country through to recent conflict and even the arrival of backpackers to the area surrounding Lao Cai. It's something for the city to be proud of.

destination HANOI HILTON

hanoi CROWNE PLAzA WEST HANOI CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

FRASER SUITES

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HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

jOSEPH’S HOTEL

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

$ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots.

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

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Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city.

They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar.

Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite.

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SOFITEL METROPOLE

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

around hanoi BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$ 52 Hang Trong, Hanoi Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid–range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar. The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique– style hotel offers quite a deal.

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MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI CREDIT

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang

Viet Nam

Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service

17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1, HCMC T: (84-8) 3822 6111 Ext.101 M: 0918 802 526

F: (84-8) 3824 1835

E: sales@norfolkmansion.com.vn

W: www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

January 2012 The Word | 83

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destination LA FERME DU COLVERT

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK

TRAVEL NOTES WORDS & PHOTO BY TIM RUSSELL 30 COOL THINGS TO DO IN VIETNAM Here’s my list of 30 fun & non-touristy things to do 1) Go to a rural wedding — you can’t beat rice wine shots at 6am 2) See Vietnam the way the locals do — from a motorbike, with a Vietnam Vespa Adventures scooter tour or an Easy Rider tour of the central highlands 3) Join the locals on a tiny plastic stool for bia hoi on the pavement in Hanoi 4) Spend a day relaxing and eating seafood at Bai Sao beach in Phu Quoc 5) Think about swapping that internal flight or long road journey for a relaxing, scenic ride on Vietnam’s ramshackle but charming trains 6) Get out of the tourist areas and visit some authentic wet markets, eg Tan Dinh in Saigon 7) Get up early and join the locals for morning exercises in a local park or around Hoan Kiem lake in Hanoi 8) Eat oc (shellfish/snails) on the street at night 9) Spend the night in an ethnic minority stilthouse in Mai Chau 10) Smile at everyone you meet — it really does work 11) Escape from the modern world at Jungle Beach, a hand-built eco resort on a private beach near Nha Trang 12) Befriend your hotel’s security guys — they’ll be your best friends if you have any problems with rogue taxi drivers 13) Do a cooking class on the beach at Mui Ne Cooking School, the most idyllic cooking class location in Vietnam 14) Go for a blind massage 15) Find and join in a game of da cau (shuttlecock) in a park — not as easy as it looks but it’s good fun 16) Act like Andrew Zimmern and try

84 | The Word January 2012

some bizarre food — minced snake and field rat are on many menus 17) Spend the night in a jungle lodge at Cat Tien National Park, home to many endangered species 18) Cross the road in Saigon or Hanoi — a real sense of achievement when you make it intact 19) Ride a motorbike over the Hai Van Pass at 5am on a clear summer morning and see sunrise at one of Vietnam’s most spectacular spots 20) Visit Cholon (Saigon’s historic Chinatown) by cyclo — vibrant markets, magnificent colonial buildings and great Chinese food 21) Try out your handicraft skills at a lantern making workshop in Hoi An 22) Take a private blessing ceremony at a colourful Cao Dai temple 23) Go trekking in Con Dao’s national park to observe wild monkeys 24) Drive the spectacular coast road from Quy Nhon to Tuy Hoa 25) Enjoy a relaxing couple of hours at a local hairdresser for a haircut, hair wash and head massage — the whole lot will cost less than US$2 in many places 26) Get some friends together and rent a private karaoke room with a couple of cases of beer 27) Try night fishing for squid off the coast of Phu Quoc 28) Visit Binh Thuy ancient house in Can Tho, where the film The Lover was shot and contribute to its upkeep 29) Visit the UNESCO biosphere reserve of Cham Island near Hoi An — sail there on a traditional ghe nang boat and stay in a village homestay 30) Get off the tourist trail in the Mekong Delta — avoid My Tho and Vinh Long; try Ben Tre, Sa Dec or Tra Vinh instead Interested? Contact hello@ comeandgovietnam.com for more info

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE

Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JUNGLE BEACH

Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY

Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

MEKONG LODGE

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

MIA NHA TRANG

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

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LA VIE VU LINH

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins.

They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself.

A great, classic experience.

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh. Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

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$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bambooconstructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night.

Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

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MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

EqUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 ,Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment

destination outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers.

of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAzA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience.

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

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NEW WORLD HOTEL

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE

$$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best–regarded Chinese restaurants in the city.

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REX HOTEL

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well.

A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most

WINDSOR PLAzA

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

MA MAISON BOUTIqUE HOTEL

$$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3 Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs.

Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine.

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HOTEL MAjESTIC

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial.

Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches.

NORFOLK HOTEL

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$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers.

Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

January 2012 The Word | 85

travel Promos destination

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG In celebration of its grand opening in September, Mia Resort is offering guests a complimentary third night of accommodation if they book two nights. Come and enjoy the new resort, which is situated next to the sea just south of Nha Trang with its own private beach.

For more info, visit www. mianhatrang.com CARAVELLE In celebration of Tet, the Caravelle is offering a deluxe room (single or double) for VND2,720,000++ per room per night. The offer is valid from Jan. 20 to Jan. 29 and cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotions and card privileges.

For more info, visit www. caravellehotel.com

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL The hotel is offering a variety of packages available until Mar. 31. A deluxe room is priced at VND1,848,000++, a junior suite is VND2,058,000++ and the executive deluxe is VND2,478,000++. There is also a buffet breakfast and set menu lunch for two persons and 20 percent off for hair treatment.

These offers are applicable for overseas Vietnamese, Vietnamese and expats.

For more info, visit www. starcitysaigon.vn SIX SENSES CON DAO The promotional rate for an ocean front deluxe villa is VND18,690,000++ and three or four bedroom villas are available from VND51,030,000++ and including complimentary daily breakfast for two adults,

RAMANA HOTEL See more at wordhcmc.com

welcome drink and cool towel upon arrival, free butler service during the stay and more. The offer is valid until Jan. 31.

For more info, visit www.sixsenses. com

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VINPEARL LUXURY DANANG The hotel is offering discounts for guests staying a minimum of two nights. For two night bookings, there is a 30 percent discount on the second night and for three night bookings, pay for only two nights, with the third night complimentary. The promotion is valid until May 31, excluding Apr. 28 to Apr. 30.

For more info, visit www. vinpearlluxury-danang.com

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000 www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888 www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

hcmc mid-range KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit.

A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid–range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

hcmc budget DUC VUONG HOTEL CREDIT

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$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area.

86 | The Word January 2012

destination

DUNA HOTEL

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$ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1 Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

HONG HOA

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$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access.

SINH HUONG HOTEL

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LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five– star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

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FURAMA RESORT & SPA

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

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$$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort.

The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion.

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DANANG BEACH RESORT

HUY HOANG 1

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$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool.

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

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$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town.

vietnam top 10

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LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1 Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area.

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Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000 www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA

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Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

01 02 03 04 05 06 07

CAFE SUA DA

08 09 10

CON SAU

HA oKIo LAST WEEK: 1

ANH MO

HoANG ANH KHANG NEW ENTry

CHO EM 365 BAND LAST WEEK: 3

SO

TrAN TruNG DuC LAST WEEK:

9

DU CO CACH XA DINH MANH NINH LAST WEEK: 4

KHI RA DI THuY TrANG LAST WEEK:

8

CUOC SONG MUON MAU V MuSIC LAST WEEK:

13

HAI YeN NEW ENTry

GIANG SINH NGOT NGAO KHoNG Tu HuYNH ft NGo KIeN HuY LAST WEEK: 7

NGAY CHUNG DOI MAI HuoNG LAST WEEK: 3

WEEK ENDING DECEMBER 23, 2011

January 2012 The Word | 87

destination

AIRLINES

hue & Quang binh HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

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$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

AIR ASIA

IMPERIAL HUE

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1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

AMERICAN AIRLINES

LA RESIDENCE

www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE

130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG

194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330. www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC

5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former

BIKE RENTALS

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

EVA AIRWAYS

4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488. www.evaair.com

JAPAN AIRLINES

3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098. www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES

CHI’S CAFé 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/ month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/ month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up.

SAIGON MOTORBIKE

Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

203 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat.

THAI AIRWAYS

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE

Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

88 | The Word January 2012

25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals.

Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences.

With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal.

The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences.

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NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town.

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PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

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$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP

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$ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer. Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

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SUN SPA RESORT

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL & SPA

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

nha trang EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA

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$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara–nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

jUNGLE BEACH RESORT

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$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang) Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

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MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

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$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea.

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$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670 www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa. Service is both professional and friendly.

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destination phan thiet & mui ne ALLEz BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777 www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322 www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

COCO BEACH

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$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111 www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant.

Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

NOVOTEL PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT

$$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3822 393 www.novotel.com/2067 This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view.

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PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and

destination 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country.

It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

SHADES APARTMENTS

$$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options.

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THE SAILING CLUB

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Much more than its name suggests, with beautiful landscaped tropical gardens leading onto a stretch of pristine beach and an outdoor bar, well–positioned to make the best of the scenery. Has a mix of comfortable rooms and bungalows.

Offers quad–biking, kitesurfing, paragliding and sailing.

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$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

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$$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French–Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay.

Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

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CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italian-run, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc.

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LA VERANDA

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988 contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully–designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA

$$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City.

The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation. Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools.

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VICTORIA SAPA

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU qUOC RESORT THANG LOI

RESTO-BAR

sapa CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE

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HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

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CON DAO RESORT

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SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

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$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconutshaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

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$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

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$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere.

Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

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$$ Cat Cat Road Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

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vung tau, ho tram & con dao BINH AN VILLAGE REX HOTEL

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid–back and simple. And cheap.

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

travel services ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS

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7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor

destination Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

AzA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL

S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523 www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia. AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR

www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies.

With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY

including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU qUOC

60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872 www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

KIM TRAVEL

270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

COME & GO VIETNAM

195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups.

Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

DALAT EASY RIDER

ONE WORLD

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

EXOTISSIMO

64 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113. pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service.

Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1. Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services,

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

TERRAVERDE

91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh. Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

TU TRANG TRAVEL

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@ tutrangtravel.com.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure.com for more details.

January 2012 The Word | 91

OUT & ABOUT lIstIngs

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

BLUE GECKO AC

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 092 CAFES 093 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 094 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 095 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 095 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 096 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 099 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 100

RESTAURANTS SOUTHEAST ASIAN 100 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 101 RESTOBARS 103 ARTICLES FOODIE CORNER 096 CAFE CRITIQUE 102 FOOD PROMOS 104

AMBER ROOM

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TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am.

Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

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92 | The Word January 2012

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TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this club also possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

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MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music.

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HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners.

A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitus-inducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the twotiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

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CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

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TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet.

It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

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LOUNGE BAR First Floor, 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3686 www.theamberoom.com 3pm to midnight A small but atmospheric, living-room style London meets New York lounge opposite the Sheraton Hotel. Has chilled out tunes during the late afternoon and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for the latest cocktails, a good coffee and a glass of wine. Also has an extensive champagne list with probably the largest offering of champagnes by the glass available in town. Holds regular events.

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EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so–regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian.

The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby.

Also shows the Premier League. One of the longest running watering holes in town.

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bars & nightclubs

ICE BLUE

Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

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PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

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TECHNO / VIETNAMESE POP Nha Rong Port Area, 5-7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 6269 6999. www.oceanclub.com.vn/club 9pm to late Following the demise of the now nearmythical Starwars, Ocean Club has filled the void with a sensory overload of neon lighting, outlandish décor and a booming soundsystem that tests the limitations

by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

of what the human can take. A couple of thousand people can easily squeeze into the huge club hall with dozens of tables, booths and VIP areas dotted throughout. The solar system print on the ceiling and futuristic designs will have your eyes darting every which way whilst a relentless playlist of trance, techno and house is mixed by Vietnamese DJs. Then there’s the live Vietnamese music, too. Make sure to dress the part for the catwalk, this is Vietnamese clubbing at its most contemporary and luxurious.

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3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan. Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semi-private sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

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EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1. Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

cafes AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY)

OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes.

So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck

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SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

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EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

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BOBBY BREWER’S

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INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

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LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu.

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ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains.

Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

DJDJ DJ

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out & about COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

+ INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825. www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends.

Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbuckslike work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

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INTERNATIONAL 131 - 133 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 6309 www.gloriajeanscoffees.com.vn 7am to midnight Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising, really.

The coffee is good as are its various renditions - cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish delight, mango chiller, Irish nut creme and more. Has a number of locations around town including 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 and 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3.

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MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan. Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

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MEDITERRANEAN / CONTEMPORARY 38 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3823 0187 7.30am to 11.30pm Once the most popular contemporary cafe in town, an image-changing renovation coupled by a period of disinterested service led to Java losing its niche. Those days are now gone and this brown and grey modish venue boasts smiling staff, an attractive downstairs cafe area and a first-floor, comfort-friendly lounge. The food menu has also been revamped with bruschettas, creative open cut sandwiches, pasta, risotto and gourmet pizza mains making an appearance. Then of course are the excellent, health-conscious smoothies and good coffee.

94 | The Word January 2012

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49 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 6900 7.30am to 11pm Lime green, olive, orange, innovative sofaseating and contemporary artwork stretch across the three floors and mezzanine level of Juice, one of downtown’s most pleasant, while-the-time-away cafes. A huge selection of smoothies and shakes together with both local and espresso-based coffee is complemented by an international cafe fare menu that takes in salads, hot and cold sandwiches, wraps, pittas, bagels, burgers and a small selection of international mains. Excellent delivery service.

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CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s Frenchstyle wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

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RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this slightly retro, bookish but lounge-style Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a pan-Asian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area.

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50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the ever-expand-

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport.

With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

restaurants - chinese budget

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ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well as an additional dining area upstairs.

Although, the service is questionable.

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare.

Live music on the weekends.

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

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ing Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

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MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American.

Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

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MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

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CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

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PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

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PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best– known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

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CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

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CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

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31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf.

Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe.

Booking advised.

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PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, two-storey

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CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town.

A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

top-end LA CAMARGUE

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FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay.

Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

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FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

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restaurants – french mid-range LE jARDIN

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eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, + charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

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NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000.

Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s selfmade tandoor oven. Excellent.

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent.

From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

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NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams.

Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

Cafe fare made with American flair

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CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

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INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meat-based mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

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Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties Rooftop 23rd Floor, Centec Tower

169a De Tham

@ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Just next to Diamond Plaza Tel: (08) 3827 9631 | Fax: (08) 3827 9632

foodie CORNER phOtOs By EJ chung

HEM 18A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai is one of the longest, main transit veins of Ho Chi Minh City. Serving as a channel from the boarder of District 5, skirting through District 3, and arriving in Binh Thanh, it’s used by almost everyone. So it goes without saying that there is a lot going on along it, however, Hem 18A is a particular highlight.

Just before arriving at the bridge into Binh Thanh, a left-hand turn broadly opens up onto a range of different foodie delights. Restaurant Lang Cua Dong expertly dishes up plates of fresh Vietnamese fare at incredibly reasonable prices. The waiters joke and chat at the entrance as the customers happily tuck into their orders. With most mains ranging from VND20,000 to VND30,000, you’ll get an enjoyable feed that won’t leave you counting the change.

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96 | The Word January 2012

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

restaurants – international budget CHI’S CAFé AC

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system.

Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

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A gigantic pot of red bun bo hue simmers rapidly atop a roaring flame just outside. The deep rich smell wafts down the alley, enticing all who catch a sniff.

And with two or three places on either side selling the hearty soup, it’s inescapable. Crunchy baguettes are piled precariously next to the steaming pots, ready to be torn, dunked and gobbled two at a time.

It’s the perfect accompaniment alongside lime and salt.

Offering typical Vietnamese fare found around the city, though in a more sedate atmosphere that rubs off into the gently bubbling pots, Hem 18A should surprise and excite the most seasoned of Saigon foodies. – Jonathan Rebours

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LAM’S CAFé Bananas, mangos and sugar cane line the edges of Hem 18A. Wheeled on the usual four-wheeled carts, their proprietors dawdle along at ease with the slow pace. Overlooking the entire alley is the imposingly beautiful Chua Bao An temple (18A/231C).

Its ornamental exterior is vast from top to bottom, extending into a brief glimpse of the inside visible from the roadside. It’s truly a great example of the exquisite type of traditional Vietnamese architecture one can stumble across in a busy residential area.

Hem 18A is slightly unusual in its width - there is ample room to wander and peruse the offerings of the various establishments lining either side, and a small grocery store offers beautifully pungent fruit

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NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

TANDOOR

and beaming vegetables from a table outside, taking the limelight away from the processed packaged goods behind.

Opposite Lang Cua Dong is a large unnamed canteen area. The usual silver tables lay mostly vacant apart from a group of cooks on the side furiously chopping boiled chicken and herbs, mixing minced chilli and oil and stirring bubbling pots of soup. The vigour involved in preparing ingredients for the day indicates a busy one ahead, and one can safely assume the place will be full come nightfall.

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INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family.

mid-range AL FRESCO’S

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INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the coun-

try’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.

Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is Tex-Mex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service.

For a full list of restaurants check the website.

AU PARC

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EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eyecatching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu. Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

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AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

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RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russian-run venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area.

Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

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INTERNATIONAL 49 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1Tel: 3829 6900 7.30am to 11pm Lime green, olive, orange, innovative sofaseating and contemporary artwork stretch across the three floors and mezzanine level of Juice, one of downtown’s most pleasant, while-the-time-away cafes and restaurants. The international cafe fare menu takes in salads, hot and cold sandwiches, wraps, pittas, bagels, burgers and a small selection of international mains, all complemented by a huge selection of smoothies and both local and espressobased coffee. Excellent delivery service.

KITA RESTAURANT

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PORTUGUESE 119 Cong Quynh, Q1. Tel: 3920 9182 11am to 11pm Go to the end of Bui Vien, turn right onto Cong Quynh and on the left hand side you’ll see the first Portuguese restaurant to open up in Vietnam. A simple affair with a downstairs open-air seating area and a top floor terrace, the cuisine is as Portuguese as it gets — tasty tapas, seafood and a range of typical Iberian dishes, made with a mixture of local and imported ingredients. Also has a small selection of Portuguese wines to match the cuisine.

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EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

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FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the + + + selection of teas, juices, cakes and good espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

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AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

ELBOW ROOM

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2. Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance

DJDJ DJ

A Taste of Authenticity

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171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 4497 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere.

Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

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MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

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AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

mid to top BOOMERANG BISTRO SAIGON

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INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592 www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafront-style restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australian-themed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000).

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex.

Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

DJDJDJ

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

out & about CHARNER CAFé

AN PHU

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Asia Grill

ASIA GRILL

41 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: 6280 6870 Focusing on barbeque and grill cuisine, Asia Grill combines western-style fare with a number of Asian dishes. On offer are Koreanstyle BBQs, cafe-style breakfasts and lunches.

A number of Vietnamese dishes are also available. Decorated with Asian art and plays music from the 1970s up to the 2000s.

BLU BAR & GRILL

53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials.

BOATHOUSE

APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf. Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas.

BUDDHA BAR

7 Thao Dien, Q2 A large screen TV is the focus of this joint.

The décor is pleasant and the menu draws from across Asia.

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4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi. Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer.

MEKONG MERCHANT

23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality.

Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials.

SNAP CAFE

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids.

98 | The Word January 2012

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily.

The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed

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ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

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NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7373, www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hol+ +++lywood movie star environment, NYSW is VASCO’S AT THE CRESCENT MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL known for serving up formidable prime 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7 Tel: 5414 1717 signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib 11am to 11pm. Closed Mondays eye, table-carved double strip loins and A restaurant rather than a bar and events chateaubriands. Side dishes include black space, the District 7 incarnation of the truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois iconic downtown bar Vasco’s offers up and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive outdoor, terrace-style seating together wine list adds to the overall dining experiwith an attractive upstairs bar and lounge ence, which is enhanced by the all red area. Also has a great selection of wines and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs courtesy of Bacchus Corner, who have a cigar room. mini store on the premises. The cuisine runs the gamut from the likes of beef car- NINETEEN + + + paccio and goat’s cheese salad all the way INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN through to the beef tenderloin, seabass in Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Serrano ham and excellent pizzas.

Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com + + zANzBAR + + 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm INTERNATIONAL FUSION Great buffets draw daily crowds to this 41 Dong Du, Q1 downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined Tel: 3822 7375 décor and clean lines create a modern 7am to 1am daily ambience that makes an excellent backCreative cocktails, an extensive wine list drop for the extensive range of cuisine. and laid-back ambience, combined with Often puts on specials and brings in a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one dining space, and high quality internaof the best buffet restaurants in town. tional cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known + + + PARKVIEW for their popular weekly-changing set INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comNew World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 fort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, www.saigon.newworldhotels.com ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and 6am to 10pm miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot The ground floor, flagship restaurant of & white chocolate, and some of the best The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet value tenderloins in the downtown area. slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the top-end restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative ++ + AU LAC DO BRAzIL cooking stations, the cuisine runs the BRAZILIAN / BUFFET gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3820 7157 seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and www.aulacdobrazil.com cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also 5pm to 10.30pm does an excellent range of promotions.

Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with Check their website for details. great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the + + + qUO VADIS churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with INTERNATIONAL FUSION 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not 8am to 11pm surprisingly the place can get a little busy, This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is AC

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1. Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three–course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

MEKONG MERCHANT

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

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STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.au 11am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the wellknown Australian chain, Hog’s Breath mixes hearty cuisine such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere.

Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long, easy-to-prop-yourself-up-at bar space, also has an outdoor on-thestreet terrace, a mainly new world wine list and a large selection of both local and imported beers. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life.

230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery.

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TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1. Tel: 3915 3691 www.flowsaigon.com 7.30am to midnight, Monday to Friday.

10am to midnight, Saturday. 10am to 3.30pm, Sunday Opening up onto an enormous first floor dining area with an outdoor terrace to boot, this black and white, artwork-clad space with touches of deep red is one of the latest international styled restaurants to descend on Saigon. Excellent service, an extensive wine menu and modern fusion European cuisine all combine to make this a great place for a quality meal.

Also puts on events and film screenings.

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

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so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc.

Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

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EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

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out & about centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS

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INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections.

The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well–sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

RIVERSIDE CAFé

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

SHRI

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CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfortspared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm.

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

restaurants – italian budget MARGHERITA AC

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ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with panwestern cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

SALT AND PEPPER

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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

mid-range CENTRO

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

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PAN-MEDITERRANEAN 38 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 3823 0187 7.30am to 11.30pm A modish, brown and grey contemporary cafe venue selling Italian-influenced, pan-Mediterranean cuisine. Think ricotta pancakes, bruschettas, Roman salads, creative open cut sandwiches, linguine, risotto, pesto dishes and gourmet pizzas mains and you get the idea. Portions are big, too. Then of course are the excellent, health-conscious smoothies, good coffee and a great upstairs lounge area to boot.

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ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space. Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italianstyle mains – all sold at decent prices.

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PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

New breakfast menu items, created by Chef Ana, now being served

mid to top BASILICO

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099, www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta,

41 Dong Du, District 1 Tel: 3822 7375 Email: zzb.saigon@gmail.com www.zanzbar.com

January 2012 The Word | 99

out & about

DISTRICT 7 CAFé TERRACE

Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178

CREMONA

55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets.

GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE

Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away.

JUJAEGEUM

Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier.

LA PIZZA ITALIANA

SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes.

LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house.

NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT

S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café.

OHAN

S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere.

Prices are higher but so is quality.

ONE MORE

SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar.

PARIS DELI

Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

PIZZA INN

4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196

SARPINO’S PIZZA

GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480

SURASANG

1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare.

THE TAVERN

R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day.

TIB

Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868

TOKYO DELI

SC6–1 Parkview Building, Q7 Tel: 5410 1166

WRAP & ROLL

SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461

YEEBO

Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

100 | The Word January 2012

baguettes, focaccia and panini. Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes.

For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

CASA ITALIA

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CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent wood-fire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellar-style dining space upstairs.

ASIAN KITCHEN

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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO

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PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House.

The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni.

This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

top-end LA BRACERIA

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PIZZA & GRILL 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn The pastel-coloured, Roman arch brickwork of this airy, three-storey restaurant provides the setting for a more unusual variation on the Italian theme — the grill. Cooked over lava stones (think Mount Etna) or in the wood-fired pizza oven, dishes include steaks, lamb chops, Andouillette sausage, skewers and a range of seafood, all marinated with a selection of Mediterranean spices. Also does a range of pasta, pizza and traditional starters.

OPERA

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular

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PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bambooclad eatery close to Chi’s Café, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options. With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

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JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

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YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm.

Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

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SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation.

Here it is faultless.

JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish.

And it’s cheap, too.

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JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

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KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience. Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoalgrilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

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JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

restaurants – Japanese & korean budget

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specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

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JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious.

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THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese

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market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running HueVICKI’S TEPPANYAKI & BBq + ++ +style eatery is known for its excellent bun 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 bo-style soups and central Vietnamese Tel: 3823 3232 cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, www.vickis.com.vn com hen and much more. All the mains go 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery seven floors, this completely non-smoking on Suong Nguyet Anh. restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailand’s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, + + PAPAYA RESTAURANT the all-Thai cheffing team possess an PAN-VIETNAMESE arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh each chef preparing the food in front of Tel: 6258 1508 guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style 10am to 10pm grill. Offering fresh local and imported The work of the eponymous owner and meats and seafood at market prices, cushead chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the tomers can also choose from an extensive city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle set menu ranging from around VND500,000 of streets near the canal on the edge of to VND1.2 million per person.

District 1, the cuisine here is presented but beautifully with an emphasis restaurants – vietnamese simply on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well budget under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

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PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

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CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed décor with a distinctly Thai theme – images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more – provide the atmosphere at this excellent, long-running restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

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PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a children’s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candlelit lighting, Thai music and a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

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SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic fivestorey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

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PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000. Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

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VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak.

Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000.

Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

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STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

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COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1. TEL: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000.

Has an English menu.

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BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1. Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

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HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh

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VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

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PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

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PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

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HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deepfried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

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a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

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VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes. Also has a range of sautéed fair.

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EMPORIO ARMANI CAFFE

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of non-faux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

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Forget steel tables, screams of “em oi!” and the rumble of traffic, we’re not in Kansas anymore. We’re in the EMPORIO ARMANI CAFFE. Housed both on and above street level in the Vincom Center, and bearing no resemblance to the cheap knockoff handbags of the same name, this is the all singing, all dancing, Armani proper.

Black reflective walls, vast mirrors, sleek lines and impossibly dapper waiting staff bare all the hallmarks of a tightly run ship, and with the Emporio Armani store next door, appearances need to be maintained. From the street, the cafe sports rather intimidating red and black fronting and in-your-face signage, leaving no one in any doubt as to who runs the place. The dark interior is quite intriguing; it’s not often you find yourself sitting in a coffee shop designed by Emporio Armani.

Luckily, the Armani price tag is saved for the store next door, with most drinks items on the menu staying respectfully under VND100,000, apart from the cocktails that reach the still-affordable price of VND116,000. And though an Americano coffee at VND 86,000 is on the pricey side, you only have to take a look around to see what you’re paying for. It’s all in the name, and if Armani can’t design a beautiful interior, no one can. There is a definite feel of a chilled out casino lounge here, with reds and greens piercing the sombre gleam of the ebony that has been used pretty much consistently throughout the space.

And although some of the pricing errs on the frightening side, the service is excellent, and at VND180,000, a glass of house white wine is chilled to perfection and delivered with a plate of free nibbles and canapés. Be it afternoon cocktails with friends or a quick glass of wine after shopping, either suits this place down to a tee. And with the option of a great food menu ranging from a very reasonable VND46,000 for a banana muffin to an eye watering VND906,000 for a plate of lobster, you’re covered no matter what time of day it is.

For those not into labels, designers or even fashion, the Emporio Armani Caffe might seem like a pretentious nightmare, but what you might find, if you care to try, is a good glass of wine, quietly stylish surroundings and excellent service, none of which can be a bad thing after a long day.

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

THE DRINK: 5/5

THE SERVICE: 5/5

102 | The Word January 2012

THE DECOR: 4/5

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VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

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VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too.

A great place for groups and parties.

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STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

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MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt.

Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

Also runs separate cooking classes.

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101 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asianstyle, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinh-branded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving

DJDJDJ

out & about NAM PHAN

quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

TIB

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HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

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STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces.

For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

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38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry.

Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

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XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

mid to top BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3)

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10 Chu Minh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6291 0447 alamezon.vn@gmail.com 11.30am to 1am A restobar where France meets Japan, this innovative and bold four-floor venue mixes Gallic flair with all the nuances of the Land of the Rising Sun. With lime green in the stairwells, maroon on the ground floor and orange moving up to the subtly lit top-floor terrace, the bar areas and dining spaces are complemented by two games rooms for playing board games, Wii and X-Box. The menu encompasses the same eclectic mix, with ika kappa maki sitting next to baked clams gratinee and beef carpaccio. A bit of something for everyone.

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MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist.

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboo-style décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings. Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the latenight party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm.

Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist.

Good wine list.

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INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 + Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

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RESTOBAR AND CLUB 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 11am to 3am Located in the heart of the city, AMOR’s two floors offers up a variety of choices: The first floor restobar is an open-plan casual dining and socializing venue with the kitchen and bar open from 11am till 2am. The menu dishes up a range of delights from snacks and bar food to gourmet grills at astonishingly good value.

On the second floor the nightclub pumps out hip hop and R&B beats with fabulous scratching from their resident DJs from 9pm - 3am. Pole Dancing, MCs, regular promotions and special offers keep the crowd buzzing and the atmosphere jumping until early in the morning!

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious,

slightly gentrified restobar in An Phu on the banks of Saigon’s largest waterway.

The cuisine here ranges from small plates through to salads, sandwiches (from VND95,000), premium burgers (from VND195,000), pizza, pasta, pan-Asian, seafood dishes and steaks (VND450,000 for the Australian premium rib-eye). Has an international wine list and Sunday afternoons play host to live music and the occasional mini festival.

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MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown, this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York. Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare.

Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular, bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere. Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

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INTERNATIONAL 7 Thao Dien, Q2 3pm to 12am daily Tucked away in An Phu, this long-standing establishment provides great food and drinks at reasonable prices. With a long bar, pool table, darts, live sports, good music, and friendly staff, it’s easy to relax and have a good time. A variety of cuisine is offered, from beef pies and burgers to beef tenderloin, spare ribs and Swiss-style fondue. Quiz night on Wednesdays, ladies night on Tuesdays and live music every first Friday of the month.

www.alibi.vn 5a Nguyen Sieu Street, District 1, HCMC Tel: (84-8) 38 25 62 57

Rendez-vous?

Alibi MEET - DRINK - EAT

January 2012 The Word | 103

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food Promos PARK HYATT The first of the Park Hyatt Masters events will be held from Jan. 13 to Jan. 15 with the Flavours of CochinChina. The three-day event begins with The Art of Claypot which teaches claypot cooking, followed by Banh Mi and Brews on day two, with instruction on baguette making and beer tasting, and ending with a Green Afternoon Tea on day 3.

Patrons who dine at Opera or Square One, with a minimum consumption of VND1,050,900, will receive a voucher for a 20 percent discount off their entire bill during their next visit to 2 Lam Son. This month Opera celebrates veal and chef Michele offers it in three versions priced at VND810,000++ per dish.

The stage is set at the Square One Terrace for an outdoor barbecue cookout. The barbecue menu includes a choice of starter and dessert for VND1,050,900++, as well as free flow beer and wine. From January to May, enjoy the al fresco BBQ every Friday at 6pm.

For more info visit www.restaurants. parkhyattsaigon.com HOTEL EQUATORIAL The Orientica is offering a special Tet feast on Jan 23.

The nine course Sau Gong Jiu menu has three set deals

ranging from VND6,500,000++ to VND16,800,000++. Prices quoted are for a table of ten guests.

There is also a Yee Sang dish on offer from VND188,000++ per person.

For more info visit www.equatorial. com/hcm SHANG PALACE To welcome the Year of the Dragon, Shang Palace Restaurant will be holding a Lunar New Year feast, featuring “Abundance” raw salmon mixed with eye-catching shredded vegetables and a variety of sauces known as Yu Sheng. Also, enjoy the Prosperous Big Bowl Feast containing premium ingredients such as abalone, fish maw, sea cucumber, dried scallop and prawn. Don’t miss the Lion dance at 12pm on the first day of Tet. For more info, visit www. shangpalace.com.vn CARAVELLE Chefs at the Lobby Lounge are whipping up much-loved light French pastries with classic cream fillings and decadent toppings from Jan. 14 to Jan. 21. Choose from seven varieties of choux and eclairs at VND160,000++ per portion, VND240,000++ with tea or coffee, or VND 310,000++ with champagne.

Nineteen Restaurant will host

BREAD & BUTTER

See more at wordhcmc.com a mouthwatering Lunar New Year Buffet Dinner of Asian, western and traditional Tet delicacies on Jan. 22 and Jan. 23. An East meets West spread showcases local dishes such as beef in la lop leaves and banh xeo alongside international mains such as herbcrusted lamb, saffron-marinated chicken and five-spice roast duck.

VND1,013,000 ++/ person.

For more info, visit www. caravellehotel.com NOVOTEL NHA TRANG The Square restaurant will host a traditional Russian Christmas Gala buffet dinner on Jan. 7.

Guests can enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail party at the lobby bar.

The price is VND630,000++/ person.

Welcome the Lunar New Year with the year-end cocktail party and watch the firework performance on the hotel roof terrace for a prosperous new year. The party is from 10pm till midnight on Sunday Jan. 22, priced at VND350,000++/person.

Guests can also enjoy the lucky buffet lunch and special seafood buffet dinner during Tet holiday from Jan. 22 to the Jan. 31. The buffet lunch price is VND315,000++/person and the dinner price is VND 420,000++/ person.

For more info, visit www.novotelnhatrang.com.

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INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays.

A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyoneknows-your-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

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26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372 www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering spectacular views of Ho Chi Minh City, Chill is located on the rooftop of A&B Tower in downtown District 1. DJ Kenzo Trinh provides a playlist of ambient dance tunes and up-tempo lounge tracks, while the open kitchen, headed up by chefs from Japan, Australia, Thailand and Vietnam, serves a mix of contemporary international and Asian cuisine. Signature drinks aplenty can also be ordered from the bar. Be sure to dress well as Chill operates a no shorts and no sandals dress code policy.

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

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28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

104 | The Word January 2012

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January 2012 The Word | 105

out & about HOG’S BREATH CAFé AC

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.au 11am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well-known Australian chain, Hog’s Breath mixes hearty cuisine such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a bar-like Australian sports atmosphere. Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long, easy-to-prop-yourself-up-at bar space, also has an outdoor on-the-street terrace, a mainly new world wine list and a large selection of both local and imported beers.

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2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own.

Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

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FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

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has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere.

Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

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106 | The Word January 2012

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46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s

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DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

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S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports +with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas.

Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene.

The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

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FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two.

Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

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17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

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+ + BAR / INTERNATIONAL IRISH 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups.

Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

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WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back.

An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

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195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonial-era villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastropub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas. Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

+ 17 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3827 9095 10am to midnight This cozy slither of a two–storey venue is one of the few down-to-earth watering holes left in downtown Saigon. Offering a great dining area upstairs and easyon-the-eye bare brick décor throughout, the menu includes tapas, salads, pasta and sandwiches and mains such as roast chicken with pomery mustard and bangers and mash. Also has flatscreen TVs for the sport and a general, laid-back but amiable atmosphere.

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PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars.

A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannah-esque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

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43-45 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 3836 8310 www.streetpub.net 7am to 3am Swathed in deep red and yellow and with armchair-style seating on the ground floor, Street Pub has an extensive western and Vietnamese food menu, all complemented

by daily drinks specials. Has an upstairs pool table and lounge area, outdoor terrace seating and regular music and DJ events hosted in the main by local music collective Depskillz. Many of the staff here used to work at Le Pub.

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NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

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102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

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WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

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CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofastyle seating and deep red upholstery.

Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

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SOUND & VISION for the record lIstIngs

ARTS CLASSES 107 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 107 GALLERIES 107 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 109 PERFORMING ARTS 112 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 112

arts classes BETTER DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS

www.BDPworkshops.com 090 2208 813 Photographer Peter Stuckings (Lonely Planet Images, Insight Guides) runs a monthly intensive class on how to get the best out of your digital camera, as well as what to do on your computer when you bring the photos home. Workshops are run over a weekend, and involve classroom time in District 1 as well as shooting at locations around town. Cost is $195/person, with discounts for early and multiple bookings.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780, www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity.

Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP

Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire.

All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

VIN’S SPACE

4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting, drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

books & magazines ARTBOOK

43 Dong Khoi , Q1, Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

FAHASA

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English,

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

articles FOR THE RECORD 107 ROAD RULES 108 DECKS, DRUMS & ROCK & ROLL 110 IN THE FRAME 111

French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG

94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallic-run bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second–hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC)

2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam.

Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

SAHABOOK

175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1. Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps.

Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

galleries BLUE SPACE CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1. Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer

DAVIS ZUNK & THE WANDERLUSTERS MIDNIghT BREEzE If you're familiar with The Wanderlusters' live shows in and around Ho Chi Minh City, you may be surprised by how laid-back their first album is. Midnight Breeze clocks in at a little over 30 minutes and is as chilled out as it is enjoyable.

With relaxed, swaggering love songs like, So High (Now I'm so high/ Learn to love/ Leave lost love behind), and the loping On The Trail (On my horse I ride/ With my gun at my side/ You know I got my pride/ But I left all trust behind), this album is equal parts islandgroove party and backwoods moonshine-fueled hoedown.

To be fair, the band could play either of those locales without sounding out of place. It's difficult to categorise their musical genre — they're a little bit country, a little blue grass and a little Americanroots. In many ways, they can't be confined to a single style. Zunk croons like Joe Strummer, but writes more like Jerry Garcia.

Instrumentally, this album has a ‘front porch’ feel, with a lot of string picking, banjo, brassy guitar and slow, samba-like percussion.

Zunk's mandolin stands out on several tracks, but none more so than on the reeling Blues No More (Well, ain't gonna sing them blues no more/ Nobody gonna bring me down/ Walked in, now I'm running out that door/ Dust settles on that old ghost town). Baron's gripping banjo picking is wickedly utilised on the aforementioned On The Trail and Brantley's percussion is particularly on-point on Thai Fever.

While their trademark four-part harmonies are all but absent on this album, their instrumental mastery shines on every track. The album's title track, Midnight Breeze, is a bass-heavy meditation on the impermanence of love (Please, oh baby don't you leave/ 'Cause I don't want to say/ Goodbye again).

If this album is any indication of things to come, Ho Chi Minh City is lucky to have these guys as their resident psycho-billy, bluegrass-fusion act. — Charles Barnes Midnight Breeze is available to purchase on iTunes, and from cdbaby. com

road

Rules

Pat Joynt has been working in the scooter and motorcycle industry in Vietnam for 15 years, restoring classic bikes, importing and producing parts.

To ask Pat a question about your scooter or motorbike, email info@ saigonscootercentre.com

ZEN AND THE ART OF...

A bit of preventative maintenance on your motorcycle or scooter is a must, especially if you want to save money in the long run.

There are some simple steps in DIY maintenance that will not only save you money but will enhance your motorcycling experiences and enable you to gradually build up your knowledge about your trusty stead. It’s one thing to look cool cruising on your dream machine and another to be picking yourself up off the floor or pushing your pride and joy home.

I’ve broken this down into six specific groups: TYRES: Besides checking for the usual tread wear and sidewall cracking, make sure you check your motorcycle’s service manual for the proper air pressure and wear limits. This is one of the most underrated problems that can cause accidents. If under inflated, the front wheel will under steer and the back wheel will lose traction when cornering and they’ll also wear unevenly. If over inflated they are more suitable for higher speeds, but you will have less tyre contact with the road surface. Check your tyre pressure once a week with a quality air gauge. It’s also a good idea to check your brakes at the same time.

BATTERIES: Check your battery and cables, making sure the connections are clean, tight and

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free of corrosion. If the battery is not a maintenance-free battery, inspect the fluid level and be sure to top off the battery with nothing but distilled water. If a battery is failing or old, take no chances.

It’s a lot easier and cheaper to replace your battery than rebuild your electrical system. If you don’t use it often, remove the battery leads — it’ll save you replacing them with new ones every few months.

LIGHTS: Inspecting bulbs and lenses regularly can prevent accidents or hazardous situations while driving at night. Visually inspect all lenses for cracks or areas where rain and moisture can come into contact with the bulb and possibly cause your lighting circuit to fail. If you upgrade to Halogen bulbs it’s worth the extra couple of dollars. For vintage scooters, 12v electronic ignition kits are a sound investment.

CABLES: Inspecting cable operation on a regular basis will prevent the need to replace cables that are broken or frayed.

This is more important on vintage scooter models where most of the controls are cable operated.

Always carry a couple of spares with you as they’re cheap but not always available at roadside mechanics. Always carry extra grease to lubricate the cables before fitting. I find most bicycle shops sell small ‘travel’ size tubes

for a few thousand dong.

MOTOR UNIT: Regularly inspect your chain and sprocket assembly for wear and tear, chips or broken teeth. Check your air filter unit is clean — the use of a good inline filter will help with poor quality and sometimes contaminated Vietnamese petrol. Regular oil changes and following the manufacturer’s service intervals will prevent many mechanical issues. Use the correct spark plugs and for vintage two strokes, use a good quality two-stroke oil, preferably synthetic not mineral oil.

NUTS AND BOLTS: Visually inspect all mounting hardware for missing or loose bolts. Foot pegs and other components falling off your motorcycle can quickly become a safety hazard for you or other drivers on the road. Thread locking compound is a rider’s best friend to prevent vibration from loosening those bolts.

Another must is the purchase of a service manual to reference all specifications for your motorcycle/ scooter. Lastly, even keeping your motorcycle clean can prevent rust and dirt from wreaking havoc on your motorcycle’s chrome and other finishes. Rust and corrosion can lead to broken brackets and damaged hardware, which can leave you stranded on the side of the road. It’s worth that small expense once a week!

reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY

31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE qUYNH

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Founded originally in 2000 by Viet Kieu Quynh Pham and partner Robert Cianchi as an online resource on the Vietnamese art scene. Initially providing nurture and promotion for the more abstract contemporary works of Vietnamese painters considered too self indulgent for normal exhibition, the gallery now follows a more international programme and helps to advance the works of a select group of locally based contemporary artists. Runs regular exhibitions. Check their website for details.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON

324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes.

Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

PARTICULAR GALLERY

Kim Do Business Center, 3rd Floor 123 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 8330 www.particulargallery.com 10am to 7pm Mon to Saturday Founded in 1999 with the objective of

sound & vision promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-andcoming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites inter-

national artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY

53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

zEROSTATION

288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

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6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance

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sound & vision decks, drums & rock n' roll

of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

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BOOTLEG Dj CAFé

From left to right: Davis Zunk, DL Baron, Steven Kitching, Scott Brantley and Matt Willis.

Dubbed the classiest band in Saigon, and the only group to have killed a man with a shovel, The Wanderlusters are bringing some country-tinged originality to Saigon’s coverobsessed music scene. Words and photo by Charles Barnes Most foreign bands in Vietnam are cover bands. While you play a few covers, you’re definitely not in the cover band category. Is it hard being an original band in Saigon?

Davis: Well, we're the only band doing country that I know of, so we have a real niche here.

Baron: We all love playing what we're playing, and through good luck, our voices are all on different registers, so they come together quite naturally.

Harmonising — which is so central to country, blue grass and gospel — is one of the sweetest, most satisfying aspects of what we do.

Scott: We're not a country band, though.

Maybe blue grass-fusion or Americanroots.

Davis: Woody Guthrie-American-roots, though. Not Garth Brooks.

Of course not, nobody likes Garth Brooks. Musically, how are you able to get away with doing what you’re doing?

Scott: Ignoring audience requests, mainly.

Davis: Yeah, people always ask for Take Me Home, Country Roads; John Denver is a puss.

Scott: We have a lot of audience banter; we do some comedy.

Baron: Usually at Scott's expense.

[Everyone laughs while Scott scowls and nods] Matt: Diversity is the key to success in the music scene here in general. And the ability to maintain a smile even when the situation is not the best.

What’s the most difficult aspect about playing in Vietnam?

110 | The Word January 2012

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Steve: Sound and mixing. You always get the parking guy coming in to do the sound and you're on-edge waiting for him to *&%^ it up.

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57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture.

What's your main source of inspiration?

Davis: Asia has fueled my songwriting because the beer is cheap and the women are plentiful. [Laughing] Seriously, though, everyone has stories here and I get loads of inspiration from all the wacky expats and the trouble they find themselves in. It's good fodder for song writing.

Baron: I've written a number of songs about Hanoi and Saigon. The sights, sounds and sensations of these cities make it easy to paint rich musical portraits; Vietnam is so evocative! And of course, Vietnamese women are so alluring and coy; they inspire desire, heartache and longing — all critical elements of any good country song.

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 1

212 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3, Tel: 3935 0610 240 Duong 3/2, Q10, Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

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41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals

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31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

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Level 5, Saigon Paragon Building, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastarmedia.net DELIVERY

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7th Floor, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 6222 0388 AC WIFI SMOKING DELIVERY www.megastarmedia.net

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116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 8533; 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688; 246 Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

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8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

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Level 3, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

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102 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 8102 8pm until late Designed as a European industrial processing plant (huge fans, bright yellow pipes, road signs and metal drums), The Factory is the second offering from the team behind Acoustic. In the footsteps of its predecessor, The Factory churns out live music, albeit in a much clubbier environment with some of the city’s top hip-hop DJs also performing every night from 9pm to 2am.

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13th floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 www.lottecinemavn.com

What's next for you guys?

Davis: Fatman Films is going to shoot a video for us and we have a record release party at Bobby Chinn's restaurant on Jan. 12. We're also recording our second CD.

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8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

METALLIC BAR

LOTTE CINEMA IN DIAMOND PLAZA

Describe your ideal audience?

Matt: Any audience that's attentive and forgiving and doesn't request Hotel California.

Davis: Mermaids and midgets.

Catch The Wanderlusters every Tuesday from 8pm to 11.30pm at O’Briens (74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) and at Sheridan’s Irish House (17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1) every Thursday evening.

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9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

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39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands.

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The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

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and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smoke-free atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music venues.

Longtime house band, The Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

Unique renditions of classic jazz compositions by the likes of Miles Davies, John Coltrane and Charlie Parker can be heard from 9pm until midnight daily at this non-smoking establishment. Saxophonist Tran Manh Tuan and the Sax N’ Art house band regularly performs a unique blend of contemporary jazz and blues mixed with central highlands Vietnamese influences in this cosy, brick-walled bohemian boîte.

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23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm to midnight (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

One of the chicest venues in the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music courtesy of the six-piece Transit band and Filipino group Sound On Fire. As the name implies, Transit play a range of Top 40 hits across the spectrum of popular music every Tuesday to Sunday from 8.45pm until 11.45pm (1am at weekends), while the usually heavy-rock inclined Sound On Fire tap into their Latin-dance side every Monday night from 8.45pm until just before midnight.

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25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own.

Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

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SAX N’ ART jAzz CLUB 28 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 8472 www.saxnart.com 5pm to 12am

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74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues.

Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

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9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1. Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

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+ + + + + 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends.

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and exotic Cuban salsa music.

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103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

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7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3 Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

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22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon’s infamous wife inspired the title of this excellent watering hole. Refurbished and expanded at the start of 2011, the ever-popular Yoko plays host to some of Saigon’s best local bands, including funk-rockers 6789 every Wednesday, metallers Microwave every Saturday and the irrepressible chanteuse Ngoc Thy twice weekly. Proceedings tend to kick off around 9pm with a revolving door of local musicians performing nightly amongst the comfy surrounds and walls adorned with Vietnamese art and photos of John Lennon and Kurt Cobain.

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Ben Tre-born Nguyen Dam Thuy majored in Scientific Murals Fine Arts at the Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts University in 1993. Since then, her artistic journey has taken her to various places in Vietnam and abroad — a far cry from the little girl who used to use rocks for paintbrushes and the ground as her canvas at her family’s backyard.

Vietnam’s economic downturn in the late 1980s didn’t deter her from pursuing her dream to become an artist. Though her father desired her to study medicine to provide her with a more financially stable future, Dam Thuy took the entrance exams at Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts University and was accepted. She even received a scholarship. Though the value of the scholarship was little, it helped motivate her to press on with her studies.

Picasso, Claude Monet, and Gustav Klimt are just some of the art masters that Dam Thuy looks up to. However, her mother continues to be her muse. Her work, Folk Song, which depicts Vietnamese women in a dream-like consciousness, and won for her second place in the Vietnam Fine Arts Competition in 1988, was inspired by her mother. Dam Thuy explains that Vietnamese women, best exemplified by her mother, can be gentle and soaring but also wild and fierce at the same time.

Although adept in the intricacies of acrylic and lacquer painting, Dam Thuy finds oil painting and installation work more rewarding. Her works are reminiscent of Picasso’s abstract style with Monet’s impressionist influence. The recurring themes in her art include nature, life and Vietnamese people.

Her favourite work to date is her oil in canvas, A New Life Force. Using strong contrasting hues of red, orange and blue, Dam Thuy illustrates a confident and charming Vietnamese girl in a flowing traditional Ao Dai amidst the burgeoning modernity of Ho Chi Minh City. Exhibited in the Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum in September 2007, the piece was highly received by the Fine Arts Association.

From 1993 to 2006, Dam Thuy participated in numerous exhibitions in Vietnam, Thailand, Korea, France and Germany. However, she laid low between 2007 and 2010 to help manage her family’s business. In 2011, she went right back to doing what she loves best and is now creating works of art by sculpturing wood fossils and semi-precious stones.

Currently, Dam Thuy is busy preparing for her solo exhibition, which takes place on Apr. 19 at her own NGUYEN DAM THUY GALLERY (369 Bach Dang, Tan Binh). — Lyra Dacio For more information on Dam Thuy visit www.nguyendamthuy.com

January 2012 The Word | 111

sound & vision performing arts

BAND & DJ LISTINGS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY

brettnewski@yespleasemedia.com Alternative Medicine is a party band with setlists packed with groovy, danceable super hits to amp up an event. Not too loud, but also far from wimpy. Female and male harmony vocals with a percussionist with the fastest hands in the land. Rock/indie pop/soul.

380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency.

BAD NEIGHBOUR LATIN ROCK BAND Contact Claudio Duek on Facebook.

Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members.

BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others. Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes.

CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads

DEPSKILLZ www.depskillz.com A Saigon-based collective of bands, musicians, DJs and MCs who play weekly gigs at some of the best venues around town. Also available for corporate events, mix & mingles, birthday bashes, bon soirees, weddings, funerals & bar mitzvahs. No karaoke or K-Pop. Call Pedro on 0943 200 495.

DJ AJAM Tel: 01203 077 882 Djajam@gmail.com http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha. Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages.

DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities. A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam.

DJ SEIP Tel: 0934014091 www.djseip.com German DJ and Turntablist, DJ Seip, plays the hottest hip-hop, rn’b, dance and house tracks and can be seen playing at most of the prominent Saigon venues.

112 | The Word January 2012

EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design. Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs.

GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply.

MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events. Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair.

RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon.

SNAKEBITE — MUSIC WITH VENOM! Tel: 0909 169 033 (Andy) andy@andysgraphics.com Looking for music with soul? Then call Snakebite the next time you’re planning a wedding, event or private party. Snakebite play music that is suitable for all ages and can even help with invitations.

THE CURTIS KING BAND www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound. Founded in 1996, the band has performed over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events.

JENNY SANTIAGO & THE JOYRIDERS www.jennysantiagoonline.blogspot.com Fronted by Filipino singer Jenny Santiago, former resident-singer at Caravelle Hotel and collaborator with Bad Neighbour, The Gigatones, The Curtis King Band and Acoustic Band. The band can be found playing at venues around the city.

HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA

The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419 www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com

This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

production companies CREA TV

339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS

91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

LEISURE & WELLNESS

lIstIngs

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 113 BASKETBALL 113 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 113 COOKING CLASSES 113 CRICKET 114 DANCING 114 FITNESS 114 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 116 GOLF 116 LEISURE - GENERAL 116 SPORTS CLASSES 117 TENNIS 117 VIETNAMESE CLASSES 117

YOGA & MEDITATION 117

leisure

SAIGON EXPATS

amusement DAI NAM THEME PARK

Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area.

Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG

5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun.

Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON zOO AND BOTqANICAL GARDENS

2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728, www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese. You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

basketball PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB

8 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 118 COSMETIC SURGERY 119 DENTAL 119 HAIRDRESSERS 120 MEDICAL 120 PHARMACIES 120 SALONS 120 SPAS 120 ARTICLES HEALTH BUFF 116

kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch. Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

clubs & societies INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM

www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms.

Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi.

Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

cooking classes SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese

cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes.

Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm.

The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE HO CHI MINH CITY

362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 351 22 764, www.vietnamcookery.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

VIETNAM

cricket SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE

The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions.

The season starts every October.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION) Manish Sogani. Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

clubmgr@cswellness.vn

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the–art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA

Samie Cashmiri. Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB)

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB

Steve Treasure. Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)

Suhard Amit. Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

dancing DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE

(84-8)114 5415 8888 (ext.4001) (84-8) 5415 8840 | The Word January 2012

AIS SPORTS CENTRE

Tel: 0947 771326 www.cyril-and-you.com Nutritional advice and personalised programmes for body toning. Fitness at the Boathouse in An Phu at 8.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Evening sessions start at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays at Riverside. Contact Cyril for more information

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)

3RD FLOOR, CRESCENT PLAZA, 105 TON DAT TIEN ST., PHU MY HUNG, TAN PHU WARD, DIST. 7, HCMC, VIETNAM

fitness

CYRIL AND YOU-BODY AND MIND CO LTD

Munish Gupta. Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

at the life-inspiring Crescent Wellness

www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON)

TOTAL WELLNESS EXPERIENCE

SAIGON SWING CATS

19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool.

Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

Deeptesh Gill. Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

Sweat, pump, workout and run. Gym should’nt be just as boring as these; which is why we are integrating our very own recipe of MOVE, SHAPE, BALANCE and POWER to transform the ordinary fitness experience into a remarkable one

No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”.

Scheduling information is available online.

COUNTRY TEAMS: ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington. Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

BEYOND WELLNESS

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1).

It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

jOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports.

Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning.

Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors.

Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

leisure & wellness LA COCHINCHINE

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

L’APOTHIqUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop– in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

NTFq2

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie–calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

PAUL SIMOS

www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical

lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

PATRICK NGUYEN

Tel: 093 815 6865. www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool.

Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR

Tel: 01225 811 080. www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

SOFITEL PLAzA FITNESS CENTRE

17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six months and VND21 million for a year at this small but well–equipped gym.

Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym.

Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung. Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

THE LANDMARK CLUB

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

zumba & nutrition hall

Fit & Fun Club, S62-1 Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Phu My Hung Tel: 0934 060 735 www.zumba-nutrition-saigon.com

Nicole Le is a certified Zumba instructor and nutrition advisor with professional nutrition experience since 2004. Offering daily hour sessions at staggered times throughout the morning and early evening, Nicole can accommodate for various schedules. Zumba is a Latin-inspired dance fitness programme that mixes international music created by Grammy Award-winning producers and cardiovascular steps, and is ideal for people wanting to lose weight without tiresome and monotonous exercise.

January 2012 The Word | 115

?

what's on your

MiND

In this column, readers are invited to write in to clinical psychologist Tran Thi Hong Nhi (Ms) with questions regarding health. Send your emails to nhi@wordhcmc.com

Dear Nhi, What are the reasons for teeth grinding/bruxism? I’m not a stressful person but find that I grind my teeth in my sleep quite a lot. People say it’s due to stress, but I think this is a poor excuse and not always relevant to everyone. Is there a way to stop this happening at night when I’m not aware of doing it?

Sincerely, Amaryska Dear Amaryska, Bruxism is classified into ‘awake bruxism’ and ‘sleep bruxism’.

‘Awake bruxism’ is characterised by involuntary clenching of the teeth and jaw bracing in reaction to certain stimuli. There is generally no tooth grinding with ‘awake bruxism’, however, ‘sleep bruxism’ is characterised by automatic teeth grinding with rhythmic and sustained jaw muscle contractions.

Exact causes of bruxism are not fully known. Although teeth grinding can be caused by stress and anxiety, it often occurs during sleep and is more likely caused by an abnormal bite or missing or crooked teeth. It’s believed to be stress-related and emotional factors such as anxiety, anger, pain and frustration are associated with nighttime teeth grinding.

People with extremely busy lifestyles, or those competitive or aggressive by nature are more likely to grind their teeth. Some sleep disorders can stimulate grinding of the teeth and in all cases drinking alcohol will worsen

116 | The Word January 2012

the damage of teeth grinding. Your dentist can fit you with a mouth guard (see picture) to protect your teeth from grinding during sleep.

If stress is causing you to grind your teeth, ask your doctor or dentist about options to reduce your stress. Attending stress counseling, starting an exercise programme, seeing a physical therapist, or obtaining a prescription for muscle relaxants are among some of the options that may be offered.

Other tips to help stop teeth grinding include: • Avoiding or cutting back on foods and drinks that contain caffeine, such as cola, chocolate and coffee • Avoiding alcohol. Grinding tends to intensify after alcohol consumption • Not chewing on pencils or pens or anything that is not food. Avoid chewing gum as it allows your jaw muscles to get more used to clenching and increases the likelihood of teeth grinding • Training yourself not to clench or grind your teeth. If you notice that you clench or grind during the day, position the tip of your tongue between your teeth. This practice trains your jaw muscles to relax • Relaxing your jaw muscles at night by holding a warm washcloth against your cheek in front of your earlobe Tran Thi Hong Nhi is a clinical psychologist at FV Hospital. She can be reached for appointment by calling 5411 3333 or emailing nhi2. tran@fvhospital.com

football, soccer & rugby AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

OLYMPIqUE SAIGON

astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years.

Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

SAIGON RAIDERS

courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches.

Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

leisure – general HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long– established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

PUSH CLIMBING

67/1 Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung Tel: 01264 722 134. www.pushclimbing.com Push Climbing is Ho Chi Minh City’s and Vietnam’s first dedicated bouldering climbing gym and pro shop. Located in District 7, the gym is open seven days a week and there are facilities for storing bicycles and gear. Drinks and snacks are also available, as well as a comfy area for people to relax after tackling the various routes.

RAINBOW DIVERS

jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches.

Contact Jon Hoff.

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2. Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

SAIGON SAINTS

www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

golf LADIES’ FIRST GOLF

www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7. Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000.

Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT

77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660. www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Long Thanh My Village, Q9. Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball.

Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

SqUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon.

Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@yahoo.com.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3. Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

sports classes CAPOEIRA

25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter.

Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

tennis KY HOA II

796 Su Van Hanh, Q10. Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT

291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club.

You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

vietnamese classes PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES

Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency.

VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3836 4344 vnccentre@gmail.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training and Translation provides Vietnamese language training by experienced and qualified teachers and certifies translation from experts for all kinds of materials and documents, from a page to a book.

yoga & meditation DR. SHIVA

shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and

leisure & wellness Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA

Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE

Tel: 0128 630 5982 www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA

Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance.

Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym.

Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non– member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIqUE

84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1. Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off

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yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

VAjRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP

saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

wellness alternative medicine AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM

Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretary-general of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese speakers.

8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

VIVACOLOUR

DR CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE

33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2. Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE

Tel: 01266 626467 www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING

Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes. A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER

335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They

American Chiropractic Clinic, 8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 chantel@vietnamchiropractic.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam practicing out of American Chiropractic Clinic.

Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation. Rehabilitation may include combination of hands on manual therapy, specific exercise prescription and other modalities.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Major medical centre that also offers acupuncture and traditional medicine services. The international doctors are highly qualified in their respective disciplines and speak English, Italian and French.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7 Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system.

English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN

Tel: 0937 442 516 www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

THETA HEALING

Tel: 0918 591 933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailormade programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking.

Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

leisure & wellness cosmetic surgery CAO THANG LASIK & AESTHETIC CLINIC 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5. Tel: 3923 4419 A range of optical and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern clinic, which is home to a team of experienced and highly trained doctors. Apart from Lasik vision correction, procedures include Botox and restylane skin–filler treatments.

Hotline: 0919 590 866.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses state-of-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC

dental

290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1. Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound–based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping.

The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

ACCADENT

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY

EUROPEAN DENTAL CLINIC

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7. Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss regrowth treatments.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3392 1080 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800 www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

17-17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Dentists from Japan and France providing total dental care. Open Mondays from 8.00am to 8.00pm and Saturdays from 8.00am to 5.00pm. Emergency hotline: 0909 551 916 / 0916 352 940.

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 . Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

SAKURA DENTAL CLINIC

90 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3829 8453 96 Ha Huy Tap, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5415 6868. www.sakuradental.com.vn An international-standard private dental healthcare group established in the 1990s and led by a Vietnamese senior dentist graduated from Tokyo Medical & Dental University (Japan). Comprised of a team of local and foreign dental specialists, providing total dental care services from dental check-ups to specialist works like whitening, braces, implants, and sleep apnea mouth guards.

First Impression (Deep cleasing) with 40 min for 660,000 VND, Facial Rejuvenation (Vitamin C ) with 60 min for 1,170,000 VND and 90 min for 1,650,000 VND. Closed for Tet from Jan. 23 to Jan. 29, reopened on Jan. 30 (Monday)

23C Ton Duc Thang, District 1, HCMC Tel: (84-8) 3823 3777 rsv@rosablancavn.com www.rosablancavn.com Open: 9:30 - 19:00 (Closed Monday)

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leisure & wellness range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

smile dental

173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634

www.smiledental-vn.com

A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 8.30am to 12pm and 2pm to 6.30pm, and on Sundays from 8.30am to 12pm. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

jASMINE

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3911 0915 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

THE SALON STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3. Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

hairdressers ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON

HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

ART HAIR

37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

COLOR HAUS

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFURE

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2.

Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new

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21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1. Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

VENUS

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1. Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist and cut and colour specialist Ky The Guy, a well-trained staff in an English-friendly environment attracts a loyal foreign clientele. Top industry products such as TIGI and GOLDWELLL are used and a cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000. A second salon is located in the Park Hyatt Hotel.

medical AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS

273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health– checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3333 . Emergency: 5411 3500, www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24– hour) 5411 3500.

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

IFC INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY COUNSELING HCMC

Smart Kids, 26 Street 10, Q2 Nutrifort, 281 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0903 617 101 IFC provides therapy for a full range of issues including anxiety, depression, adjustment, divorce, cultural and ethnic challenges and more. Their eclectic approach is tailored to meet the therapeutic needs of each individual client with offices in districts 1 and 2. Call Annie Dolle, LCSWA or Marijke Schaminee, MA. or email IFCSaigon@gmail.com to arrange an appointment.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non–profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

CARE 1

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC

THE STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider

pharmacies INTERNATIONAL SOS

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this well-respected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescriptiononly. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

salons

FV SAIGON CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication.

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1 Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

aminations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general ex-

FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1. Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

jUST MEN

40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIqUAIRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3, 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well– designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

spas AqUA DAY SPA

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

GLOW SPA

129A Nguyen Hue, Q1Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA

69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

qING SPA

110 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a

20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA TROPIC

79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1. Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

THANH SANCTUARY

Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA

Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the

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Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

INTERIORS ART 124 CRAFT 125 FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 125 KITCHEN & BATHROOM 126 LIGHTING 126

XUAN SPA

YKC SPA

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

lIstIngs

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

style

STYLE

highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

fashion

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DR. MARTENS CASUAL WEAR

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B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm Despite its size, Accessorize is marred by its sloppy and disorganised displays.

The shoppers still come in their droves, though, attracted to the range of products that includes anything from beachwear and children’s clothes through to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more.

Prices depend on types and designs, but generally start from VND200,000, with a normal bag costing from VND1 million.

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1B Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its frontage is painted in a stark lemon yellow.

Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

CHARLES & KEITH

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35 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6291 8162 www.galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions

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GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

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18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and well-organised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million. There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

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127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand. Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past. But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

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B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 126 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 127 MOBILE PHONES 127

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January 2012 The Word | 121

Object of Desire

and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

IPA-NIMA

72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-and-gold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

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For a chance to win a pair of the Unit.dot Aviators, email in a catchy slogan that best sums up the shades to james@wordhcmc.com.

Submissions must be made by Jan. 10, 2012

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THERESE jEWELRY

MAI O MAI

VESPA SHOP

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67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery. There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million.

The staff is friendly and speak English.

SERGIO ROSSI

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146AB Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

SKECHERS

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115 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

TDC SWISS WATCHES

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million.

122 | The Word January 2012

SHOES

174 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

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Throw some style on your face for the New Year with these beautiful bamboo shades from Colin Ball at Villa Anupa (17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1).

Priced at VND4.8 million per pair, the Unit.dot Aviators are ethically designed using bamboo and recycled old glasses, meaning the Unit.dot range of eyewear will not only take a bite out of your carbon footprint, they’ll also make you look damn fine in the process.

All this luxury comes with the added option of easily refitting the UV400 sunglasses and optical frames with prescription lenses, so you can look good and see where you’re going at the same time.

FORMAL WEAR

9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door.

Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

jEMMA

UNIT.DOT GLASSES

TIC TAC WATCHES CASUAL WEAR

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77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

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Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters.

Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

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32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings.

Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite.

Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

clothing stores budget MARATHON CASUAL WEAR

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147 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

PAPAYA

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171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufac-

style tured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE

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180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000.

Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

mid-range BAM SKATESHOP CASUAL WEAR

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174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

GINKGO

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54-56 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

MAXXSTYLE

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52 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a

wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

NINOMAXX

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118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissance-style columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

mid to top BOSSINI

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22 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts.

Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products.

Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt.

Also stocks socks and belts.

ER-COUTURE

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43 Thao Dien, Q1 Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

D’BLANC

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89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

FRENCH CONNECTION

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L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493 www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop.

Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts.

Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

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GAYA CLOTHING

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Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

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85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs.

The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags.

Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

LABELLA

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85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye.

Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eye-catching box-shaped shelves.

Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

LEVI’S CASUAL WEAR

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UNDERWEAR

47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Fri S ta Fa

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Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city.

Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

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LITI SHOES

BAGS

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LOLITA

61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) www.lolita.com.vn Tel: 3925 9993 Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-towear clothing for work or play

L’USINE CASUAL WEAR

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First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MAI’S

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories. Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to

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40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

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January 2012 The Word | 123

style wear with different designs and patterns.

Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

MANGO

35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices are acceptable for tailor-made clothing, with a party dress starting from VND2.7 million. A blouse starts from VND990,000 and shoes, bags and belts are available. Also offers a small selection of imported funky jewellery ranging from VND1 million a piece.

UMBRELLA

SHOES SHOES JEWELLERY JEWELLERY BAGS ACCESSORIES BAGS ACCESSORIES JEWELLERY JEWELLERY SWIM SWIM WEAR WEAR ACCESSORIES ACCESSORIES UNDERWEAR UNDERWEAR SWIM SWIM WEAR WEAR

MR & MRS SMITH

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43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

NGAN CASUAL WEAR

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23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

RAz GARNETT

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137 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops.

Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000.

Has European-sized t-shirts.

SONG

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jOCKEY

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40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 1136 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside. The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury. Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

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1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1 Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

THUY NGA DESIGN

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top-end CHLOE

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124 | The Word January 2012

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MARC jACOBS

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BAGS SHOES JEWELLERY

BAGS

VERSACE

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AqUAMARINE FORMAL WEAR

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211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from onepiece bikinis through to two-pieces as well as monokinis and various types of beach-

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127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available.

Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

TRIUMPH

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SSUzI

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Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good.

However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish.

The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

CASUAL WEAR

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lingerie & swimsuits

JEWELLERY

139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

B1-45, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9302 9am to 10pm Offers a huge range of bras and underpants designed in various styles and for different purposes. This American brand also offers a wide selection of sweet and seductive lingerie items and swimsuits. A normal bra starts at VND300,000 while a silicon brazier goes for VND900,000. There is also a selection of invisible bras stocking at between VND1.5 million for a normal type and VND2 million for special version.

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155 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

UNDERWEAR

LA SENzA

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M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

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LA HA

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Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear.

Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

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19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A longsleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from

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94 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

sportswear SPORTS STREET

A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

U.BEST HOUSE

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163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

tailors HOANG DUNG

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270 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA

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171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes.

They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR

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39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles.

Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

interiors art APRICOT GALLERY

50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars.

style Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

DOGMA

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propagandaprinted tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

TMG

234 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products.

An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

craft EM EM

244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

GALERIE qUYNH

MEKONG CREATIONS

GALLERY

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamese-themed stereotypes available elsewhere in town.

Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run

by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

141 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 www.mekong-creations.org 9am to 8pm Mekong Creations is a project of the NGO Mekong Plus, designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia.

All products are locally produced, including paper mache, rattan and bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. A bamboo vase costs VND1.3 million and a rag ranges from VND400,000 to VND430,000.

NGUYEN FRERES

2 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house.

Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

83 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA

209 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

VIETNAM qUILTS

64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 3914 2119 www.vietnam–quilts.org 9am to 7pm Located opposite the Bitexco Financial

Tower, Vietnam Quilts is a charity organisation aiming to help poor women in rural areas. The products are hand-made and there is a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within five to six weeks and there is also a selection of accessories including aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

furniture & homewares AUSTIN HOME

20 Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phubased shop stocks antique repro furniture.

All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE

Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs.

Their products are stocked at AA Deco.

BELLAVITA

2nd Floor, Unit 7, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by wellknown brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs,

NHU Y

257 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers.

Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists.

Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a four-floor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, q1

Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists.

Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

January 2012 The Word | 125

style tables and other high quality glassware.

Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT

68-70 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 3824 6604 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks.

Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CHI LAI

53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3. Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets.

There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

CLIC CLAC SOFA

327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2. Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

ESTHETIC

11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-toorder furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks.

Also offers a rental service.

FURNITURE OUTLET

2C Nguyen Thanh Y, Q1 Tel: 3911 0104 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery.

Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

GAYA

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1. Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally.

You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

HAFELE SHOWROOM

products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors.

Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

NHA XINH

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials.

From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs.

Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

VIVACOLOUR

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

ZEN PLAZA

LIVING & GIVING

CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, q1

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

126 | The Word January 2012

59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries

Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailor-made environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

kitchen & bathroom It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen,

from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

lighting CAO DONG

Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand.

Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO

51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOUSE

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials.

Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIqUE

98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

electronics cameras CAMERA STREET

Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH

28 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC,

style prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

LE VU NIKON

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000.

Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

PHAM THE

11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony.

They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

computers & accessories COMPUTER STREETS

Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day.

You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson.

In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

GIA THANH

975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm

NGUYEN KIM

63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm

THIEN HOA

277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

CARTRIDGE WORLD

81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of well-known brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER

236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million.

Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG

Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customerservice.

LONG BINH COMPUTER

50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers.

Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU

125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM

42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN

428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THUAN MY CO.

227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

mobile phones GIA KIEN

352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS

The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, q1 & q3; Hung Vuong, q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE

382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG

182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292. www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications.

The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices.

Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A

328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4

players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

groceries bakeries CAKEWALK

84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087. www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS

54 Truong Dinh, Q1. Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS

33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1. Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING

30 Lam Son, Tan Binh. Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

LA DORéE

216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches.

Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

NHU LAN

64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

SIMRANS

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate.

No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

SESAME BAKERY

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 or 0918 445311 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide va-

January 2012 The Word | 127

style riety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES jOURS

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER

39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

catering AU PARC CATERING

Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

LE REUNION DES MARMITES

Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more.

Visit website for full menu.

care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE

Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

groceries ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS

Tel:0903 109 431 info@mealsonheels.asia Meals On Heels is a weekly catering service providing healthy home cooked meals. A new menu is released every Monday, which includes vegetarian options and kids portions. Meals are delivered fresh (not hot/not frozen) and can be reheated or frozen.

45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1. Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

MEALS ON HEELS

Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

REX HOTEL CATERING

141 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

info@saigoncateringco.com Tel: 0913 981128 (Ms Huong – Vietnamese) / 01214 401853 (Ms Ana – English) With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals.

Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a standup cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes

128 | The Word January 2012

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KITCHEN – qUALITY FROzEN READY MEALS Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging. Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www.kitchen.net. vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh

meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally–sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer.

Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer.

Open seven days a week.

LE COCHON D’OR

32 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA

Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware.

Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

PHUONG HA

58 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA

60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers.

Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe) Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal readyto-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

liQuor & wine ANNAM GOURMET SHOP

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

BACCHUS CORNER

158D Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 3306 www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on– site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

74E Hai Ba Trung,Q 1 Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

jOHNNY’S WINE STOP

109 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 38234861 www.johnnyswinestop.com A small wine bar offering premium varietals at affordable prices. This wine bar, located on Dong Khoi, is open from 11am to 11pm daily and also offers tasting flights and a modest selection of imported beers.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE

6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

LE TONNEAU

15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine–tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON

22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD

2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

THE WAREHOUSE

178 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town.

In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA

41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

VINIFERA

15C7 Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP

74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

GENERATION V

generation v 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

lIstIngs

visit wordhcmc.com for a KLING OIL PAINTING comprehensive list of our listings HELENE 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and

BABY EQUIPMEANT 129 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 129 CLASSES & SPORTS 129 CLOTHING 130

EDUCATION 130 ENTERTAIMENT 132 KIDS' PARTIES 132 MEDICAL 132

baby eQuipment BABY

66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10, Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

CHILDREN’S SqUARE

270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

ME OI

1B Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

MOM & BABY

230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

children’s books FAHASA

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHUONG NAM

1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

classes & sports ALPHA GALLERY

10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1. Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition), Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity.

Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

KINDERMUSIK

Tel: 0907 099 480, goetz@LNTgoetz.com The world’s premier music & movement program for children from birth to 7– years–old taught by Ms Lauralynn, B.A. & M.M.Ed.. The courses nurture every facet of a child’s development – social, physical, cognitive, emotional and English language skills – through music & movement.

LIFETIME SPORTS

46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6974, www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIqUE

DANCENTER

Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has

82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_music77@hotmail.com).

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

628A An Binh, Q2, Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

PIANO CLASSES

Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL

Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins.

SAIGON MOVEMENT

Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An

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generation v Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports– based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6825, keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

RMIT VIETNAM

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

SAIGON PONY CLUB

42 Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

STAGEMAGIC

Tel: 0903 145087, www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

TAE KWON DO

BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part

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in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s an additional fee for non–members. Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

clothing 123 BABY CLOTHING

226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THUY

93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably– priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

education ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

East-West Highway, An Phu, D2, Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Early Childhood - Primary Campus - 36 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle/Senior Campus – East -West Hwy | Q2 Tel: 3822 4992 www.aisvietnam.com A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle and senior school campuses.

An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages. Scholarships available.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

COMPASS EDUCATION

15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1, Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY

28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu, Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com Founded over 17 years ago and now with 850 students from Western and Asian countries, it offers a broad–based international education for children from two to 18 years, and is accredited by New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC). Recognized as an IB World School.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL

92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standardbased curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sis-

generation v terhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings.

Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

NOAH’S CLUB

3 Duong So 4, Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien Ward, Q2, Tel/Fax: 3744 4709 noahandmum@yahoo.com.vn Children’s club for toddlers and children from 18 months to 6 years old offering daycare, a toddlers’s club in the morning, an afterschool club in the afternoon for 3 to 6 year olds and art and swimming classes.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC

Tel: 0862819679 info@paa.com.vn, www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers.

ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7 Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International educa-

tion with native English teachers and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

Saigon Kids Where children grow with love and care.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE

104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3, Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Saigon South Parkway, Q7 , Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

“Materials gather history as children play with them”

18 months – 6 years old.

Part-time and full-time attendance plans.

Enrolment throughout the year.

Saigon Kids Educational Childcare Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan Street, D.3 Tel: (08) 39325579 | www.saigonkidscentre.com

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generation v SMARTKIDS

1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM

177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3519 2223. Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a USbased curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

TINIWORLD

218 Pasteur, Q3. Tel; 38241385 www.tiniworld.com tiNiWorld is a chain of EDUTAINMENT centres that combines education and entertainment in an exciting, safe and social environment for kids aged from 2 to 12 years old.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS)

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3266 / 3910 0168. www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 16 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses of all levels at high quality with time flexibility. Lessons

can be taken either at the school or at the learner’s office and home.

they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

entertainment CIRCUS & FAIRGROUND

Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Not stylish but fast paced and cheerful is the outdoor Circus and Fairground on Pham Ngu Lao. Shows on weekend nights at 7.45pm feature trapeze artists, fire eaters, dancing monkeys and other lively acts. Entrance is VND40,000 for adults and VND20,000 for children.

DIAMOND PLAzA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAzA

35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

WATER PUPPET THEATRE

History Museum, 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3823 4582 Much more cultured than malls and a sure–fire winner with children, is the enchanting Water Puppet Theatre, devoted to this traditional art which the Vietnamese called mua roi nuoc.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2. Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com.

X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or

kids’ parties A2

196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON

Tel: 0909 052502. dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN

100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu. Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do.

Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

medical FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the childcare speciality at this well– equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for

expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL

3 Han Thuyen, Q1. Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

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Hanoi

thE many facEs Of hanOI / Q&a: dEnguE fEvEr

THE MANY FACES OF HANOI

The Classic Car Collector Words by Karryn Miller. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

T

ran Quang Hung flicks through the images on his phone, pausing when he finds one of a new addition to his family. You could mistake him for a proud parent — with his big grin and eagerness to share — but Hung isn’t showing me family portraits. Instead we’re looking at a shot of a retro Citroen Ami 6, the latest vehicle to join his vintage car collection. Including the Ami, Hung has five classic cars — the youngest of which is 46 years old.

Hung, 39, has long been passionate about autos. He recalls fondly when he first joined Ford Vietnam in 1996.

“I still remember the first time I saw Henry Ford in a photo standing in front of one of his Model Ts,” says Hung, who stops talking for a moment to show me a similar photo he has — of himself posing, like Ford, in front of a vintage car. Hung may have had a desk job at Ford, but that didn’t diminish his interest in mechanics.

“Even though I wasn’t actually working on the assembly line I was still down there every day,” he says.

Hung moved on from Ford in 2006, but his keen interest in vehicles has only gotten stronger. Last year his passion turned from a hobby to a business with the launch of Hung Xe Co — a classic car rental company. That, of course, meant he needed to grow his family.

“I bought my first one, a 1966 VW Beetle 1300cc, in May [2011] from Lam Dong province [in the Central Highlands],” explains Hung, “I bought a one-way ticket to Dalat and drove it back to Hanoi.” And his 1966 Simca also went on a long journey to get to its new home. Hung picked it up from Hau Giang, about 200km out of Ho Chi Minh City. As he was driving the length of the country he called about a Citroen Traction Avant that he had made an offer on and found out his bid was successful. Hung continued to drive the Simca, while the Citroen was transported by truck from Nghe An. The

134 | The Word January 2012

Movenpick Hotel’s Citroen Traction Avant was bought by Hung in September and his final purchase for 2011 was a Citroen Ami 6 in December.

Given Vietnam’s restrictions on importing cars over five years old, Hung has had to scour the country to build up his fleet. He says the law makes no exception for classic cars, so they need to either be found locally or brought in piece by piece and then reassembled.

These limitations have resulted in Hung spending a lot of time behind the wheel, but his experiences have helped him with one segment of his new endeavour. Part of his goal in building up a classic car rental company is to also develop more of a culture of appreciation for classic cars in Vietnam and to create a community of like-minded enthusiasts.

Hung offers an example, “We are able to share our experiences such as where to park on long road trips, and safe routes to drive at night in Vietnam”. If you ever purchase a car over 40 years old and decide to take a road trip, he offers, park it at the top of a hill each night — just in case you have to roll it down and pop the clutch to get it started in the morning.

The main element of his business at the moment is renting out his cars for photo shoots, events, city tours and airport pickups. Hung is also excited about the possibility of longer classic car road trips out of the capital.

The car enthusiast is almost philosophical in explaining how he hopes his efforts will be beneficial for posterity.

“Classic cars are built to last and I want to retain them for the next generation,” he says. Given this long-term outlook, Hung settled on the slogan Tu qua khu toi tuong lai for his business, which in English means “from the past to the future”.

New sports cars, he explains are only good until the next year’s model comes out. “I like the permanence that classic cars represent.”

January 2012 The Word | 135

Q&A

Dengue Fever Douglas Pyper celebrates a decade of Dengue Fever with founding band member Ethan Holtzman and singer Chhom Nimol after their show in Hanoi at the end of last year. Photo by Ha Nguy Smith. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos You’re often described as a Khmer rock band. Is that true or is Khmer rock from the late 1960s / early 1970s just one of your influences?

Ethan: Khmer rock was our main influence when we

started. Nimol comes from Cambodia and grew up there listening to artists [like] Sinn Sisamouth, the golden voice Ros Sereysothea, and Pen Ron. Now we draw influences from music all across the world — African rhythms or psychedelic music; it doesn’t really matter. We’re not just doing Cambodian rock. We’ve expanded. Nimol can speak English better now so we are doing more songs in English to reach more people.

Is there much difference in the reception you get between gigs in the US and shows in Cambodia?

Ethan: Generally we get good responses in Cambodia, it’s

been incredible. This is our third trip there and, I mean, we played for five or six thousand people. We did some free shows on the streets in Battambong, which is where Nimol grew up. And it’s also where Ros Soreysothea was born — the best singer — so we went there and did a show. We focused on a lot of the old 1960s songs for the villagers and they tripped out.

Nimol: They like the way Dengue Fever is American but

136 | The Word January 2012

playing Cambodian music. They’re surprised because they think we’re going to sing like Britney Spears or Beyonce — hip hop and pop — but we sing traditional music. We’d never played in Battambong or Siem Riep before, either.

[This time] we played in a temple, which is usually quiet for the monks to pray…

Ethan: [Villagers] came and set up to sell food and watch the show. After we played they were just looking. They didn’t know what to do. They didn’t clap and they didn’t dance — they just had never seen it before.

What is the scene like in Cambodia now? Are there any young musicians or bands making interesting music?

Ethan: There were some great musicians in Battambang.

There is a Phaire Light school — an arts college. We jammed with the kids there. We did a workshop and they were the best musicians that we’ve played with in Cambodia. They were younger, like 18 to 25, and really good. They had learned one of our songs and played it with us live in Battambong. At the school they had not just music but art and circus; they had a big room where they were doing trapeze and trampoline work. That was really cool.

Nimol: It’s a French school. All the students know how to play pop, rock, traditional and wedding music. They can

play all the music — very cool.

Ethan: As for other bands […] there is Pu Kleang, an MC who raps. He was at two of our shows and jumped up and collaborated, rapping over a song of ours.

Nimol: That was my first time in Hanoi and [will be] the

So you get really involved with the local people and learn lots about the culture?

Ethan: Yeah, we work with a lot of organisations. [A

Have you ever played any similar festivals elsewhere in Southeast Asia? Does Cambodia have a similar international festival?

Ethan: Not yet but it seems like it’s changing.

friend of ours] is concentrating on all the best charities in Cambodia [and is] the president of Cambodian Living Arts. We [did] a couple of benefits [including] a huge show on Diamond Island — Koh Pich. We raised over US$10,000.

Have you discovered any Vietnamese musicians or instruments that you’ve been interested by?

Ethan: We jammed today with some musicians at the

Hanoi Music Academy, they were jazz musicians and really good. The only Vietnamese artist I know is half Vietnamese half French, his name’s Onra. And I like the dan bau, I bought one on an earlier trip to Vietnam.

What about other music from around the region?

Nimol: I love Isan. We just got back from Laos. We played

there for the first time and played with some Laotian singers. I love Isan music and some traditional instruments like raneat ek [a wooden alto xylophone]. I like Thai songs, traditional ones like Luk Thung.

Ethan: In Indonesia, there’s a record, it’s folk and pop from Sumatra and it’s incredible. Some of the stuff is top notch.

It’s on Sublime Frequencies, it’s called Folk Songs from Sumatra. Track it down, it’s really good.

In 2010 you guys played the CAMA Festival in Hanoi — how was that?

Ethan: It was a tough show for me because my

keyboard didn’t make it on the flight. One of the opening bands was nice enough to lend me their keyboard. I play Nord Stage but they had a Nord Electro, so it was similar but different. I was relying on the pre-sets. But that’s just from my perspective, everybody else had a great time. We had to buy clothes.

We didn’t have our luggage so we went shopping.

first memory forever! At the last minute I was looking for a dress to wear onstage and shoes and everything…

Ethan: No bags, no luggage, no toothbrush, nothing!

Cambodia is opening up a lot, it’s really developing.

People are cautious because of the dark history not that long ago and when I ask people “what do you think of it?” they are cautious — cautiously optimistic.

But I think there will be music festivals. We’ll be going back there. We’ve connected Cambodians and NGOs and expats and foreigners. The shows we played there sold out and it was really exciting for us.

Any particular highs over the last decade?

Nimol: The best show was the last one in Koh Pich and

in Battambong, I felt like we’d made it and people really enjoyed it. I never thought that Dengue Fever would come to play in Cambodia. I thought it wasn’t going to happen.

Ethan: Istanbul, we went there twice. That was, to me, an incredible tour because the city is half Europe, half Asia […] but this [2011 Electric Mekong] tour, by far for me, has been the best. It’s been the most exciting and the most organised.

What does the future hold for Dengue Fever?

Ethan: [We’re] starting our own record label called Tuk

Tuk Records to put out our back catalogue, which we own now. We just got a new booking agent in Europe so we’ll be touring in Europe in maybe June and July.

What else? We’ll do a show in San Francisco when we get back.

No signs of stopping — you’ve still got plans and are still enjoying it?

Ethan: Yeah, […] we’re just trying to reach more people

and continue to tour places where we are wanted.

This interview was edited and condensed

January 2012 The Word | 137

Tiêng viêt

Có một dòNg SôNg Chảy Qua Đây VIết BởI JohN thoRNtoN Và NICk RoSS. hìNh ảNh BởI QuINN RyaN mattINgLy

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thủ phủ thành phố hồ Chí minh mà chúng ta biết đến ngày nay đã được xây dựng trên một con sông.

Người khmer có mặt ở đây đầu tiên, trước khi tướng Nguyễn hữu Cảnh mang lại cho Sài gòn một vẻ đẹp đậm chất Việt Nam vào năm 1698. Ban đầu nằm giữa kênh thị Nghè và Bến Nghé, với phủ chính nằm dựa trên ngọn đồi mà giờ đây là vị trí của đường Lê duẩn, Sài gòn trước đây chỉ là một cảng biển nội địa. Cuộc sống và vận chuyển thương mại ở đây hầu hết thông qua con sông này. thậm chí những cư dân hợp thời của Chợ Lớn – khu vực lúc đầu nằm độc lập và cách kênh Bến Nghé 5 km, cũng đến đây bằng các con tàu.

Sài gòn nhanh chóng phát triển sang thế kỷ 21 và con sông vẫn còn đó, vẫn hòa chung huyết mạch của thành phố này. Nhưng những kênh rạch từng một lần chảy qua trung tâm Nguyễn huệ và Lê Lợi từ lâu đã bị lấp đi, rồi cũng từ đó giao thông vận tải, các hoạt động thương mại và cuộc sống bình dị hằng ngày của thủ phủ này cũng phải chuyển lên đất liền. trong quá trình tìm kiếm lại nguồn gốc của thành phố này, chúng tôi đã làm một chuyến đi dọc sông Sài gòn, từ những chỗ giao nhau của các nhánh sông cho đến những khu vực cửa biển. Suốt chuyến, chúng tôi thấy một thác nước và vô số những kênh rạch mà khi nghiên cứu chúng có thể cho thấy những điểm nổi bật và khoảng không nhẹ nhàng yên bình cho thành phố đang phát triển này.

January 2012 The Word | 139

Đầu SôNg ĐếN Cửa BIểN Lêìn theo dêëu vïët söng Saâi Goân trïn baãn àöì, coá thïí thêëy nhûäng khu vûåc hai bïn söngt khöng àûúåc roä raâng cho lùæm. Duâ biïët chuyïën ài tuây thuöåc vaâo viïåc baån seä noái chuyïån vúái ai vaâ caác nguöìn thöng tin àûúåc sûã duång nhû thïë naâo, nhûng têët caã àïìu rêët khaã quan. ÚÃ möåt àêët nûúác maâ chûa quen vúái viïåc àoåc vaâ nghiïn cûáu baãn àöì, thò àiïìu naây khöng coá gò laâ laå.

Nhûng ngay caã Wikipedia cuäng coá veã cuäng khöng giuáp àûúåc nhiïìu. Theo trang web baách khoa toaân thû naây, söng Saâi Goân "bùæt àêìu tûâ Phum Daung úã vuâng Ðöng Nam Campuchia" vaâ keáo daâi "theo hûúáng Nam – Ðöng Nam khoaãng 140 dùåm" trûúác khi àöí vaâo söng Nhaâ Beâ, thöng qua söng Ðöìng Nai. Thöng tin naây laåi àûúåc sao cheáp nguyïn vùn búãi nhiïìu trang web khaác.

Nhûäng nguöìn khaác thò cho rùçng noá bùæt nguöìn tûâ höì Trõ An bao la, nùçm úã phña Nam Vûúân Quöëc Gia Caát Tiïn, thuöåc tónh Ðöìng Nai, trûúác khi kïët thuác taåi cêìu Phuá Myä úã Nam Saâi Goân, trong khi àoá Google Maps laåi cho rùçng söng Saâi Goân thêåt sûå xuêët phaát tûâ höì Dêìu Tiïëng úã Bònh Dûúng, vaâ noá chaãy suöët cho àïën cûãa biïín Ðöng.

Bêët cûá nhûäng giaã thuyïët trïn àïìu coá thïí bõ tranh caäi vaâ chöëng laåi, nhûng duâ khöng

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thïí kïët luêån àûa ra quan àiïím cuöëi cuâng, nhûäng gò àang diïîn ra doåc hai bïn con söng naây múái thêåt sûå quan troång. Söng Saâi Goân, Ðöìng Nai vaâ Nhaâ Beâ laâ nhûäng con söng chñnh, cuâng laâ nhûäng nhaánh söng cuãa cuâng möåt nguöìn nûúác, vaâ khi chuáng hûúáng àöí ra biïín, chuáng cuâng hoâa vaâo möåt vuâng àöìng bùçng àêìm lêìy.

Theo lúâi khuyïn cuãa nhûäng ngûúâi Saâi Goân àõa phûúng, chuáng töi quyïët àõnh àïën höì Dêìu Tiïëng. Nùçm caách trung têm thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh khoaãng 87 km, khuác àêìu nguöìn cuãa söng Saâi Goân naây àuáng ra ài khöng túái 90 phuát bùçng xe húi, nhûng thûåc tïë thò thúâi gian gêìn nhû gêëp àöi con söë trïn. Ra khoãi thaânh phöë qua Chúå Baâ Hoa úã Quêån Tên Bònh – khu vûåc sinh söëng têåp trung nhûäng ngûúâi àïën tûâ Ðaâ Nùéng vaâ miïìn Trung, chuáng töi nhanh choáng reä hûúáng sang Quöëc Löå 22 röìi vaâo Tónh Löå 15 àïí lêìn theo dêëu vïët cuãa söng Saâi Goân.

Hêìu hïët chuyïën ài laâ xem xeát loanh quanh huyïån Cuã Chi, ài qua An Phuá vaâ khu vûåc Phuá Myä Hûng (Cuã Chi cuäng coá hai àõa danh naây), con àûúâng göì ghïì àêìy coã daåi, nhû con rùæn noá uöën lûúån öm lêëy con söng Saâi Goân. Phaãi thûâa nhêån rùçng, phêìn lúán con söng bõ che khuêët búãi vuâng nöng thön

phaát triïín quaá nhanh, cho túái khi chuáng töi àïën cêìu Bïën Suác nùçm ngay phêìn giaáp ranh giûäa thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh vaâ tónh Bònh Dûúng, chuáng töi múái thoaáng thêëy con söng Saâi Goân àñch thûåc.

Xung quanh bao phuã búãi vuâng àêìm lêìy xanh ngaát vaâ nhûäng cùn choâi maái tön, quang caãnh thêåt thûa thúát, chó coá doâng söng laâ àaáng chuá yá. Söng thêåt röång, mang möåt maâu nêu aãm àaåm, àêy àoá vaâi chöî cêy gêîy àöí chêìm chêåm lûúát qua cuâng khöng gian hiïìn hoâa. Möåt baãng baáo hiïåu "coã nuöi" dêìn dêìn xuêët hiïån.

Möåt mònh. möåt ngû dên àûáng cong ngûúâi bïn chiïëc cêìu, quùng cêìn ra xa. Mùåc duâ khöng noái gò, nhûng coá thïí thêëy öng vêîn chûa kiïëm àuã cho ngaây. Trong möåt khöng gian tônh mõch vaâ yïn ùæng, tñnh kiïn nhêîn khöng chó laâ möåt àûác haånh úã àêy nhûng cuäng laâ möåt ngûúâi baån àöìng haânh. Bïn dûúái cêy cêìu, coá möåt con àûúâng àaá dêîn vaâo lûu vûåc söng. Möåt ngûúâi phuå nûä lúán tuöíi àûáng trïn vaâi ba caái thuyïìn oåp eåp, baâ àang haái luåc bònh àïí phúi khö laâm àöì àaåc trong nhaâ.

Nhòn baâ, baån coá thïí biïët laâ baâ àaä laâm cöng viïåc naây hêìu hïët cuöåc àúâi mònh. Thêåt ra, úã khu vûåc xa xöi naây, àêy chñnh laâ caách kiïëm söëng hùçng ngaây.

thư gIãN tRêN SôNg Sông ngòi kênh rạch ở khu vực lân cận khá nhiều, nhưng hơi lạ là chỉ có vài ba chủ resort quan tâm đầu tư khai thác điều này. Ở Bangkok thì nhiều vô số, nhưng ở Sài Gòn thì mãi cho đến tháng vừa rồi mới có một cái – Làng Bình An. Tất cả đã thay đổi khi khách sạn năm sao An Lâm Saigon River xuất hiện. Nằm bên sông của huyện Thuận An, tỉnh Bình Dương (đối diện Quận 12), bên cạnh 7 căn hộ villa và phòng khách, An Lâm còn có rất nhiều những tiện nghi phục vụ ăn uống khác nhau.

Dịch vụ spa và khử độc cơ thể cũng được trang bị cho khu hỗn hợp này, cũng như dịch vụ đưa đón bằng tàu cao tốc – chỉ mất có 15 phút để đến Quận 1. Tất cả những điều trên đã biến An Lâm thành một nơi nghỉ dưỡng tuyệt mật lý tưởng cho những ai đang muốn nghỉ ngơi xa rời thành phố. Và thật ra bạn cũng không cần phải nghỉ qua đêm tại đó – chỉ cần gọi 0650 378 5555, đặt bữa trưa hoặc tối, khách sạn sẽ thu xếp phần còn lại.

Cuöëi cuâng sau khi ài xa thïm khoaãng 35 km, chuáng töi àïën àûúåc khu vûåc àêìu nguöìn, vaâ thêåt khoá tin rùçng doâng söng chuáng töi àang ngùæm nhòn laâ cuâng möåt doâng chaãy qua thaânh phöë chuáng töi àang sinh söëng. Ði sêu vaâo möåt kïnh raåch heåp quanh co, bùæt nguöìn tûâ höì Dêìu Tiïëng àeåp tuyïåt, noá êín mònh sau nhûäng àöìi cêy xanh um tûúi töët vaâ nhûäng böng hoa àeåp laå thûúâng àêìy maâu sùæc, nûúác thêåt trong vaâ saåch, khöng möåt mêíu raác nhoã.

Mùåc duâ coá baãng baáo "Cêëm tùæm", nhûng sûå theâm thuöìng muöën nhaãy uâm xuöëng nûúác laâ khöng thïí cûúäng laåi àûúåc. Ðoá laâ möåt núi kñn àaáo, bònh õ vaâ tuyïåt àeåp, àuã àeåp àïí àaåt tiïu chuêín laâ möåt danh lam thùæng caãnh cho nhûäng cùåp uyïn ûúng múái cûúái. Möåt con àûúâng moân àêët àoã bao boåc búãi nhûäng taán cêy thêåt röång chaåy doåc theo hai bïn búâ, dêîn sêu vaâo khu vûåc hoang daä nöng thön - rêët thñch húåp cho caác hoaåt àöång ài daåo hoùåc àaåp xe loanh quanh. ÚÃ xa xa phña Têy, nuái Baâ Ðen múâ múâ hiïån ra. Coá möåt vaâi thaáp nûúác kiïíu daáng tûâ thúâi Xö Viïët bõ boã hoang, àûáng sûâng sûäng, taåo thïm möåt söë neát àùåc trûng cuãa khu vûåc, trong khi doá tûâ möåt quaán cafeá nhoã nùçm bïn búâ höì, ta coá thïí tröng ra khu caãnh àeåp nhû tranh vaâ têån hûúãng niïìm haånh phuác xung quanh.

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kêNh RạCh Khi nhắc tới kênh rạch, có lẽ trong đầu bạn ngay lập tức nghĩ tới mấy con kênh chạy qua Quận 3 (kênh Thị Nghè) và cái kênh chia cắt Quận 1 với Quận 4 (kênh Bến Nghé).

Tuy nhiên, không cần kể đến các quận huyện ngoại thành, riêng thành phố này có khoảng 200 kênh rạch. Chúng ta chỉ là chưa bao giờ thấy chúng, hoặc nếu có thì chỉ từ trên đường hoặc những cây cầu ở phía trên.

Một phần trong chuyến đi của chúng tôi là đi đến các con kênh nhỏ, chúng tôi bắt đầu từ chỗ gần chợ Thị Nghè đối diện sở thú. Tại vị trí được tin là trung tâm chợ trước đây, mạn phía bắc của kênh Thị Nghè đã từng là nhà của những thường dân sống an cư lập nghiệp bên ngoài phủ chính. Hình như chỉ khu vực này trước đây theo tên bản địa mới là Sài Gòn. Nơi mà Himlam Driving Range, những căn chung cư trên đường Phạm Viết Chánh và Saigon Pearl đang đứng đã từng là đầm lầy với những nhà sàn gỗ. Giờ đây, con kênh bị ô nhiễm và đầy bùn. Tất cả các dấu vết của quá khứ đã biến mất. Đến con kênh nằm bên ngoài Quận 1, chúng tôi trước tiên vào Rạch Chiếc ở Quận 2. Con kênh bắt đầu từ giữa Thủ Thiêm và Quận 9, mực nước của nó khá thấp, nhưng bất kể như thế nào, trên sông vẫn có những hoạt động sinh sống – những nhà máy, thuyền đánh cá, tàu kéo, và những khu vực được dọn dẹp chuẩn bị cho đầu tư phát triển và nhiều hơn nữa. Quay trở về sông Sài Gòn, chúng tôi đi xuống Rạch Gò Dưa. Ở đây chúng tôi nhận thấy mình đang ở vùng nông thôn, xung quanh bao bọc bởi cọ nước, trại thủy sản và chỉ vài ba căn nhà đây đó trên sông. Có một căn villa dường như được xây dựng để sử dụng đường thủy với ba con tàu gồm một tàu cao tốc được thả neo ở bên ngoài. Điều này rất hiếm.

Trong suốt chuyến đi buổi trưa của chúng tôi, không còn nơi nào khác dọc theo con kênh này của thành phố biết tận dụng lợi thế của kênh rạch.

Nhưng một khoảng khắc đặc biệt đến với chúng tôi khi chúng tôi đi vào một con rạch nhỏ ở Bán Đảo Thanh Đa. Nằm gần như đối diện An Phú, chúng tôi đi qua một nơi mà người dẫn đường cho hay đó là làng tre. Chúng tôi neo thuyền và lên bờ, phía trước là một dãy trang trại với mái lợp lá chuối và vách gỗ. Chúng nằm dưới mực nước sông nhưng được che chắn bởi các bờ đê dốc, thật đáng kinh ngạc khi kiểu sinh sống như thế vẫn còn tồn tại ở thành phố Hồ Chí Minh hiện đại. Trước khi người Pháp đến, rất nhiều nơi ở thành phố này đã từng trông giống như thế.

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ĐôNg tIếN

BạN ƠI

Quay trúã vïì Saâi Goân, chuáng töi àïën caãng Baåch Ðùçng trïn àûúâng Tön Ðûác Thùæng, nùçm àöëi diïån tûúång àaâi Trêìn Hûng Ðaåo, sùén saâng lïn thuyïìn cho chuyïën ài daâi khoaãng 50 km tûâ trung têm Quêån 1 àïën cûãa biïín cuãa söng Saâi Goân. Ngûúâi dêîn àûúâng cho chuáng töi àoaån naây laâ Ian Fogg tûâ cöng ty Saigon River Express. Anh laâ ngûúâi Myä vaâ vöën laâ möåt ngûúâi möi giúái àêìu tû nay laâ möåt ngûúâi àam mï söng nûúác Viïåt Nam. Nguyïn thaânh lêåp vaâo nùm 2010, cung cêëp dõch vuå chuyïn chúã trïn söng trong thaânh phöë tûúng tûå nhû loaåi dõch vuå àaä àûúåc khai thaác úã Bangkok, Ian nhanh choáng phaát hiïån ra viïåc àêìu tû cú súã haå têìng lêîn nghiïn cûáu nhu cêìu cuãa khaách haâng laâ khöng àuáng chöî, vaâ anh àaä chuyïín viïåc kinh doanh cuãa mònh sang möåt mö hònh múái chuyïn cung cêëp caác tour du lõch hùçng ngaây bùçng thuyïìn àïën Ðõa Ðaåo Cuã Chi vaâ caác chuyïën ài haâng tuêìn trong khu vûåc Ðöìng Bùçng Söng Cûãu Long.

Khi chuáng töi khúãi haânh, quang caãnh khöng àeåp mùæt cuãa khuác söng Saâi Goân úã bïën caãng naây laâ àiïìu khöng traánh khoãi. Tuy nhiïn, khöng phaãi nhû nhûäng quan niïåm sai lêìm phöí biïën àöí löîi cho mûác àöå gia tùng ö nhiïîm, lyá do cho vêën àïì àoá laâ do hïå sinh thaái tûå nhiïn cuãa khu vûåc. Ðêy laâ möåt bïën caãng, cuäng giöëng nhû têët caã caác bïën caãng trïn thïë giúái, nguöìn nûúác úã àêy cuäng chuyïín àöång linh hoaåt, nhûng caác àúåt lïn xuöëng thuãy triïìu liïn tuåc laâm cho nûúác bõ trò trïå, khöng chaãy tûå nhiïn. Do vêåy, viïåc xuêët hiïån loaåi nûúác giöëng nûúác thaãi cuãa dên cû trïn söng khöng may laâm aãnh hûúãng xêëu àïën quang caãnh du lõch quyá giaá cuãa doâng söng.

Tuy nhiïn, khöng töën nhiïìu thúâi gian àïí thay àöíi àiïìu naây. Vûúåt qua nhûäng con taâu àaánh caá cuä kyä, voåp veåp laâ coá thïí thêëy àiïìu tûúi saáng hún vúái nhûäng con taâu vêån taãi biïín khöíng löì nhû "Prime Skipper", hay nhûäng cêìn cêíu vêån chuyïín haâng hoáa sûâng sûäng maâu vaâng vaâ xanh. Chuáng töi caâng ài xa hún, qua khu cöng nghiïåp cuãa con söng, úã vuâng ngoaåi ö Quêån 7, quang caãng caâng thay àöíi àaáng kïí.

Con söng àöåt nhiïn chuyïín àöíi tûâ maâu nêu àuåc sang maâu ngoåc lam huâng vô. Nùæng lêëp laánh trïn söng, nhûäng haâng cêy xanh mûúåt vaâ rêåm raåp bao quanh chuáng töi.

Khöng khñ thêåt trong laânh, vaâ khöng giöëng nhû úã Chêu Êu hay Bùæc Myä, hêìu nhû khöng thêëy boáng daáng cuãa con taâu naâo xung quanh, caãm giaác nhû taách biïåt hoaân toaân. Khöng coá gò laå caã, àêy laâ nhûäng tuyïën àûúâng thuãy hoang sú, chûa àûúåc khai phaá.

Mùåc duâ thanh bònh, nhûng khöng coá nhiïìu hoaåt àöång giaãi trñ cho lùæm nïn chuáng töi cûá nhùæm cûãa biïín hûúáng túái. Trïn àûúâng, chuáng töi ài qua möåt vaâi laâng chaâi, nùçm àêu àoá giûäa Cêìn Giúâ vaâ Tên Phûúác. Ðûúåc baão vïå búãi haâng raâo keäm gai vaâ choá dûä, ngûúâi dên àõa phûúng xuêët hiïån àêìy caãnh giaác àöëi vúái nhûäng ngûúâi ngoaâi chuáng töi, chó coá möåt vaâi ngûúâi cûúâi àaáp laåi vaâ vêîy tay chaâo thñch thuá. Traái

ngûúåc vúái nhûäng ngûúâi söëng vaâ laâm viïåc trïn nhûäng doâng maåch chñnh cuãa Ðöìng Bùçng Söng Cûãu Long, hoå chûa quen nhûäng khuön mùåt nûúác ngoaâi, do vêåy viïåc hoå böëi röëi laâ dïî hiïíu.

Khöng naãn loâng vaâ quyïët têm gùåp möåt ai àoá kiïëm söëng trïn miïìn biïín, chuáng töi tiïëp tuåc àïën núi con söng Saâi Goân (hay Nhaâ Beâ, tuây thuöåc vaâo nhêån àõnh cuãa baån) gùåp Biïín Ðöng, vaâ theo hûúáng àöng tiïën túái tónh Baâ Rõa - Vuäng Taâu cho túái khi chuáng töi àùåt chên àïën laâng Long Sún.

Cêåp caãng vaâ neo thaânh cöng chiïëc thuyïìn vaâo möåt chên cêìu göî lùæc lû àïí vaâo àêët liïìn, chuáng töi tiïën vaâo möåt con àûúâng maâ hai bïn àêìy rêîy caác haâng quaán. Nhiïìu nhaâ vêîn àang phúi haãi saãn vûâa múái àaánh bùæt àûúåc trong caái nùæng giûäa trûa. Laâng nhoã vaâ húi coá veã aãm àaåm, àêu àoá vùng vùèng tiïëng àöång cú thuyïìn nöí, àêy laâ núi maâ àaân öng ài àaánh caá ban ngaây vaâ vui veã vaâi cheán vúái baån beâ ban àïm, coân àaân baâ con gaái thò tröng coi cûãa haâng quaán xaá ngaây qua ngaây trong khi taán ngêîu vúái baån beâ.

Cuå Lï Thõ Baách, 72 tuöíi, laâ möåt laäo laâng söëng gêìn nhû hêìu hïët cuöåc àúâi mònh úã Long Sún. Laâ möåt goáa phuå, nhûng con chaáu hoå haâng sinh söëng úã àêy, vaâ chöìng cuå laâ möåt ngû dên kiïm nuöi haâo, coân cuå sûã duång nhûäng traãi nghiïåm cuöåc söëng vaâ kiïën thûác àõa phûúng àïí laâm thuï laâm mûúán, sûãa chûäa naây noå. Theo cuå, nghïì àaánh caá vêîn laâ nghïì chñnh cuãa laâng naây vaâ coá tûâ rêët lêu nïëu cuå coá thïí nhúá àûúåc, mùåc duâ viïåc kinh doanh buön baán àaä buâng nöí tûâ nhûäng nùm gêìn àêy nhúâ sûå phaát triïín cuãa thõ trûúâng du lõch. Cuå chó vaâo nhûäng cöng trònh nhaâ cûãa gêìn àêëy vaâ giaãi thñch thïm rùçng nhûäng ngûúâi àõnh cû úã àêy àaä tûâng rêët ngheâo nhûng giúâ àêy àaä kiïëm àuã tiïìn tûâ nguöìn biïín ngoaâi kia àïí xêy nhaâ gaåch maâ trûúác àêy chuáng chó laâ nhûäng maái nhaâ laá.

Möåt ngûúâi söëng lêu úã Long Sún khaác - baác Ba Rêu àaä 67 tuöíi. Trûúác àêy laâ möåt ngû dên, giúâ baác laâ möåt hûúáng dêîn viïn du lõch àõa phûúng, coá leä baác laâ ngûúâi coá böå ria meáp àeåp nhêët Viïåt Nam. Baác cho hay vò söë lûúång haãi saãn úã khu vûåc coá giúái haån, möåt söë ñt àûúåc tiïu thuå úã àêy, coân laåi hêìu hïët àûúåc caác thûúng laái hay khaách du lõch tûâ núi khaác vïì àêy mua, nïn Long Sún chó laâ möåt núi phuâ húåp cho caái ngû dên treã tuöíi luyïån têåp vaâ trau döìi kyä nùng cuãa hoå.

Nùçm phña xa xa kia laâ möåt laâng Long Sún Nöíi. Múã cûãa àaä àûúåc böën nùm, noá laâ möåt nhaâ haâng haãi saãn, baán àuã caác loaåi caá, bao göìm caá da trún, töm huâm, vaâ caã nhûäng con haâo to mêåp nhêët maâ baån chûa tûâng thêëy. Nöíi tiïëng trong ngaânh du lõch, nhaâ haâng naây lúán àaáng kinh ngaåc vaâ toaát ra möåt neát duyïn daáng cuä kyä vúái nhûäng têëm vaán nùång nïì nûát neã kïët húåp löëp xe taåo thaânh caác löëi ài taåm thúâi vêy quanh nhûäng trang traåi haãi saãn thu nhoã nuöi àuã loaåi sinh vêåt biïín laå mùæt. Vaâ giaá caã thò khaá mùæc khi möåt kyá töm coá giaá hún 400,000 àöìng, nhûng baån seä thêëy haãi saãn úã àêy àuáng chêët lûúång, tûúi ngon.

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thu hẹP khoảNg CáCh Đối với một con sông dài và rộng thì sông Sài Gòn phục vụ người dân sống chung với nó khá nhiều khi các phương tiện qua sông được xây dựng. Cầu Thủ Thiêm và hầm Thủ Thiêm là những lựa chọn mới được chào đón trong bộ sưu tập, nhưng hiện tại, chỉ có 10 cây cầu và một cây cầu có đường ray xe lửa chạy qua là bắc ngang qua con sông này.

Không phải một con số tuyệt vời. Nhưng mặc dù như thế, cuộc sống hai bên sông lại tách biệt, điều này có nghĩa là bạn sẽ nhận thấy mọi thứ ở phía cuối con sông ở thành phố Hồ Chí Minh hoàn toàn khác so với sự phát triển và những đô thị ở Đồng Nai và Bình Dương. Tất cả những điều trên chỉ làm tăng thêm sự đa dạng và, tất nhiên, nó cũng cần được khám phá.

khu Đầm Lầy

Trïn àûúâng quay trúã vïì Saâi Goân, chuáng töi chuyïín hûúáng ài xuyïn qua khu vûåc Dûå Trûä Sinh Quyïín Cêìn Giúâ. Theo UNESCO, khu vûåc àêët ngêåp nûúác vaâ rûâng ngêåp mùån naây röång 76,000 hecta vaâ nùçm caách thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh 40 km theo hûúáng àöng nam vaâ cuäng laâ nhaâ cuãa hún 150 loaâi thûåc vêåt. Caác baäi buân vaâ búâ caát laâ möi trûúâng söëng quan troång cho caác loaâi chim nûúác di cû vaâ khu vûåc naây coân thûåc hiïån nhiïìu chûác nùng sinh thaái coá giaá trõ bao göìm viïåc búâ baäi àûúåc öín àõnh, chöëng xoái moân, sûå cöë traân dêìu vaâ triïìu cûúâng. Rûâng ngêåp mùån àöìng thúâi cuäng laâ nguöìn göî nguyïn liïåu vaâ vêåt liïåu xêy dûång.

Vaâ têët nhiïn seä rêët laâ ngaåc nhiïn nïëu coá cuöåc söëng con ngûúâi úã àêy, àoá thêåt sûå laâ möåt veã àeåp hoang sú vaâ yïn bònh. Ngoaâi nhûäng ngû dên ngûåc trêìn kyâ laå àang cöë baán buön nhûäng gioã cua, àöìng haânh cuâng baån giúâ àêy (ñt nhêët laâ nhòn thêëy àûúåc!) laâ nhûäng con caá thoâi loâi, cua, chim boái caá vaâ bûúám. Thuyïìn di chuyïín chêåm, nheå

144 | The Word January 2012

nhaâng, Cêìn Giúâ hoaân toaân laâ möåt niïìm vui thñch cho nhûäng ai khöng chó yïu thñch möi trûúâng tûå nhiïn maâ coân muöën baãn thên àûúåc têån hûúãng. Nhûäng nhaâ thiïn nhiïn hoåc nhû David Arrtenborough chùæc hùèn seä rêët tûå haâo.

Chuáng töi vïì àïën caãng Baåch Ðùçng. Rêët nhiïìu ngûúâi trong chuáng ta chûa thêåt sûå traãi nghiïåm àûúåc hïët veã àeåp cuãa söng Saâi Goân, àa söë chó giam mònh trong nhûäng bûäa töëi trïn nhûäng con taâu du lõch, hoùåc chó ài caác chuyïën phaâ àïën Quêån 2 vaâ taâu caánh ngêìm túái Vuäng Taâu, roä raâng cho duâ ranh giúái coá nùçm úã àêu ài chùng nûäa, vêîn coân àoá rêët nhiïìu caách àïí traãi nghiïåm söng Saâi Goân hún nhûäng caách vöën coá nöíi tiïëng bêëy lêu nay. Vaâ mùåc duâ seä coá möåt vaâi ngûúâi tranh caäi rùçng sûå gia tùng ngaânh du lõch thûúng maåi hoáa coá thïí laâm giaán àoaån hay töín haåi àïën veã àeåp tûå nhiïn hiïån taåi, nhûng nïëu noá àûúåc phaát triïín möåt caách cêín troång, thò àiïìu naây chó coá thïí töët cho caã àöi bïn.

gIao thôNg VậN tảI tRêN SôNg Hãy làm một chuyến đến một vài bến tàu của thành phố như Bạch Đằng và Nhà Rồng, và bạn sẽ nhận thấy có rất nhiều loại hình giao thông công cộng dọc trên sông Sài Gòn. Ngoài ra, còn có tàu cánh ngầm đi Vũng Tàu, hoặc du lịch trên sông đi Cần Giờ hoặc Đồng Bằng Sông Cửu Long, hay chỉ ăn tối thưởng ngoạn trên sông. Với hiện tại như vậy, giao thông trên sông vẫn là những đầu tư của tư nhân và với việc hầm Thủ Thiêm giờ đây đã được đưa vào sử dụng, thì những chuyến phà công cộng chuyên chở xe hơi, xe gắn máy từ Bạch Đằng đến Thủ Thiêm ở Quận 2 có vẻ sẽ ra đi.

Một chuyến đi với Ian Fogg trên một trong những con tàu cao tốc 25 chỗ ngồi của đội tàu Saigon River Express cho thấy được giao thông công cộng trên sông thật sự hiệu quả như thế nào. Đi từ Riverside Apartments ở Quận 2 đến cảng Bạch Đằng ở Tôn Đức Thắng chỉ vỏn vẹn 7 phút. Thử tưởng tượng điều đó trong giờ cao điểm. Không cần phải phải kỳ kèo, đến cầu Sài Gòn hoặc hầm Thủ Thiêm trong giờ cao điểm cũng tốn từ 45 phút cho đến 1 tiếng nếu chạy nhanh. Từ Quận 9, khu vực gần Đồng Nai và Bình Dương, chuyến đi cũng chỉ mất 15 phút. Ở một thành phố luôn vật lộn với nạn kẹt xe, thì giao thông công cộng trên sông có thể là một giải pháp dễ dàng. Nhưng điều đó cần sự hỗ trợ rộng rãi. Hiện tại, tất cả những nâng cấp trong khu vực này đều thuộc phạm vi tư nhân.

Theo Fogg, đã có nhiều sự phát triển trong thành phố được chú ý. “Họ muốn có tàu cao tốc di chuyển tới Quận 1 như là một phần trong hợp đồng mua nhà hay chung cư của họ.

Thật không may, họ chưa có con tàu nào cả.”

Tất nhiên, Fogg hy vọng anh sẽ tận dụng được điều này.

Hiện nay, trong những khu dân cư ở ngoài thành phố thì chỉ có Saigon Domaine và Riverside Apartments cung cấp tàu cao tốc đến trung tâm thành phố. Và cũng chỉ có ba nhà hàng – The Deck, BoatHouse và nhà hàng ở Làng Thảo Điền có thể có dịch vụ này, nhưng cần phải đặt chỗ trước.

Vậy khi nào thì thành phố Hồ Chí Minh thật sự có dịch vụ trên sông này như ở Bangkok?

Hai thành phố có kích thước tương đương nhau và trong khi sông Chao Phraya làm rất tốt nhiệm vụ này, còn sông Sài Gòn thì vẫn chưa.

Fogg dự đoán điều này sẽ xảy ra trong vòng vài ba năm tới. Để an ủi bớt gánh nặng của một thành phố đông đúc như Sài Gòn, hãy cứ hy vọng là anh ấy đoán đúng.

Hai công ty có tổ chức du lịch bằng tàu cao tốc đến Địa Đạo Củ Chi và Đồng Bằng Sông Cửu Long: Ngọc Phong Speedboats (www. saigonrivertour.com) và Saigon River Express (www.saigonriverexpress.com). Cả hai cũng cung cấp dịch vụ cho thuê tàu theo nhu cầu cá nhân.

January 2012 The Word | 145

BáN Đảo thaNh Đa Với những công trình xây dựng, những con đường bê tông gồ ghề, dường như điều đó làm giảm giá trị bộ mặt của Bán Đảo Thanh Đa. Tuy nhiên, đó chỉ là một trong những phần bị thiết kế lỗi và không hợp của thành phố đông đúc này. Phải không?

Với nhận định sai lầm trên bạn sẽ bỏ lỡ một phần độc đáo của thủ phủ này. Vừa có ruộng lúa, vừa có rừng ngập mặn, và với những tuyến đường thủy nhỏ cùng với những chiếc thuyền đánh cá xanh đỏ, nơi đây có một sự tương đồng kỳ lạ với Đồng Bằng Sông Cửu Long. Đây vẫn là thành phố Hồ Chí Minh, đúng không?

Nhưng bán đảo duy nhất đáng chú ý này nằm trên sông Sài Gòn, cũng nằm trên con đường chính – Bình Quới, và cây cầu nối Bán Đảo cũng vừa mới được xây. Men theo các con đường xung quanh, bạn có thể đến được rừng ngập mặn, ruộng lúa và trại nuôi cá.

Thật không may, hầu hết khách tham quan khi đến đảo có xu hướng chỉ ghé một trong ba khu resort Bình Quới được chăm sóc cẩn thận. Họ có nét hấp dẫn riêng của họ, ngoại trừ nằm ven sông, những nơi này là cái gì đó nhưng thật ra chúng cũng chỉ là Thanh Đa. Có thể thấy chúng bất cứ nơi đâu ở miền Nam Việt Nam. Để thấy sự độc đáo của bán đảo này, hãy ghé quán café Rạch Dừa. Là một quán café sàn trong khu đầm lầy, quán café trong hẻm nhỏ này nằm trên một con đường nhựa chỉ ngay khi vượt qua khu căn hộ cao cấp của Saigon Domaine.

Bạn có thể lựa chọn ngồi trong nhà sàn trên sông hay thư giãn ngả lưng nhìn ra vùng đầm lầy với khung cảnh cây cối rậm rạp xanh um bên ngoài. Đây không còn là một thành phố lớn với tiếng ồn và cuộc sống bận rộn. Ở đây thật yên bình!

Những người đam mê câu cá cũng có thể thỏa mãn sở thích của mình ở đây. Chúng tôi đếm được có khoảng hơn 20 ao cá được xây dựng kết hợp với nhà

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hàng. Ở đây, bạn có thể thưởng thức những thứ bạn câu được hay có thể lựa chọn những món từ nhà hàng. Một vài năm trước đây, người viết bài này đã thử món cá tai tượng chiên xù ở một trong những nhà hàng này. Là một trong những đặc sản của Đồng Bằng Sông Cửu Long, món này thường ăn kèm với bánh tráng, rau sống, nước mắm ớt. Và đối với anh, nó vẫn là một trong những món ngon nhất mà anh đã ăn ở thành phố này.

Chúng tôi quyết định đi xuống các con đường và quẹo tay phải ở một ngã ba mũi tàu trước khi đến Bình Quới 2, ngay lập tức, chúng tôi nhận ra mình đã đi xa thành phố. Một công ty phát triển đã cố gắng xây dựng một khu vực villa sang trọng ở đây, nhưng chỉ có hai cái được hoàn thành, còn lại là đất hoang bị rừng xâm chiếm.

Thêm vào đó, chúng tôi tình cờ đi ngang qua một ngôi đền, nhưng những người sống ở đó (và lũ chó của họ) không được thân thiện cho lắm. Chúng tôi không được phép nhìn vào bên trong nhà chính hoặc chụp hình. Đây là một nơi hành hương – bên ngoài ngôi đền, có một người đàn ông đang ngồi chờ, ông đã lái xe chạy đến đây từ Đồng Bằng Sông Cửu Long – nhưng dường như những người sống trong căn nhà 300 tuổi này không sẵn lòng đón tiếp ông.

Những con đường ở đây là những con đường đất đỏ, sỏi cát với những cây cầu nhỏ gập ghềnh bắc qua kênh. Ở đây hầu như có đủ loại nông nghiệp, từ những ao hoa lily đến ruộng lúa và trại nuôi cá. Cuối cùng, chúng tôi quay trở về đường chính và ăn trưa trên sông Sài Gòn ở Saigon Domaine trước khi hướng về Làng Bình An. Được xây dựng theo phong cách Đông Dương và vương giả quyến rũ, đây là một hòn ngọc trên vương miện Bán Đảo Thanh Đa. Với khu vườn xanh tươi, trang trí theo phong cách hoài cổ và quá khứ huy hoàng của Việt Nam, nó cũng là một nơi bạn có thể đến trong ngày để thư giãn hay ngủ lại qua đêm cho một kỳ nghỉ xa rời thành phố.

The Final Say EThnically urban / on the stool Photo by AARON JOEL SANTOS

THE FINAL SAY

Ethnically Urban Kaitlin Rees speaks to key players in the story of how ethnic prints travel from Vietnam’s mountains to urban fashion centres worldwide.

Photo by Aaron Joel Santos “ETHNIC IS IN,” a phrase that my friends in New York started saying

two summers ago, became a kind of joke because what does it actually mean? However, the statement has since taken on more depth for me, with a somewhat closer approximation of what ethnic looks and feels like in northern Vietnam.

Handmade fabrics from ethnic minority villages have been tourism classics since Vietnam started accepting visitors in the 1990s. Colourful scarves, jewellery, handbags and wooden instruments that will probably never be played are the traditional items that tourists traditionally buy when visiting traditional minority villages. Tourism has become a significant source of income in some of Vietnam’s rural areas.

For the past ten years, Dirk Salewski and his wife have travelled to ethnic minority villages to select fabrics for their handicraft store, Mystere, on Saigon’s trendy Dong Khoi Street. They travel every other month to different areas in Vietnam searching for new products for their store. For the past three years, though, their most regular destination has been the northeastern province of Cao Bang — home to the Tay, Muong, Dao, Hmong, San Thi and Lolo ethnic minority groups. After hours of driving on paved and unpaved roads, then hiking up mountain passages, the pair looks for pieces that will attract customers back in Ho Chi Minh City. They always keep the tastes of the market in mind.

“It is not so easy because many tribes make products that customers are not going for,” they say. “Some of the very traditional things that are made cannot be sold.”

This wear-ability question is a familiar one to others who support the minority women weavers by introducing their textiles abroad. How do you take products from a small ethnic minority village and translate them to an urban setting without winding up in the land of clichéd and kitsch?

Prints The World Over French-Vietnamese designer Linda Mai Phung uses her trained eyes for fashion to negotiate this tricky terrain. She is aware that when her clothing line hits the streets of France, Italy or Belgium, people are weary of looking too “crazy,” even if it’s simply a colourful Hmong belt on a black skirt. Her compromise is a blend.

“I try to modernise the ethnic style,” she says. “At the last show in Paris, people thought I was going to sell skirts [straight from the village]… or traditional outfits that are very colourful and un-wearable in the streets.”

The show in Paris to which Linda refers is the annual Ethical Fashion Show.

Not to be confused with ethnic fashion, ethical fashion means all clothing is well sourced. Linda works with recycled materials left over from factories

148 | The Word January 2012

and brings prints from small mountain villages in Vietnam to Paris, infusing ethically sourced materials with ethnic designs. Like Dirk, she has done her share of travelling and is familiar with Hmong and Dao styles in Lao Cai and Bac Ha, and the Bana and Cham from the central region.

Promoting Vietnamese-made products in a global market and giving work to women who otherwise may not have any is what motivates Linda, who remains balanced about what she is doing.

“I’m not saying I’m saving the world, but I’m trying to live my passion and keep it in line with my values,” she explains.

Weaving a Story

“After the changes increased sales, Huong says that the people in the village also started to like the better quality material and the new line of colours”

In life, the story is what makes the difference. And from the growing and cultivating of their own cotton, to the hand weaving and dyeing, from the batik painting to the individual embroidery of traditional motifs, even an occasional pleat on a skirt, the history of a single piece of ethnic fabric is rich. For Dirk, the power of this story keeps business moving, with tourists making up the majority of his customers in Saigon.

“If it’s handmade and you tell the customer, the customer will accept [the strong smell of indigo or the fact that it cannot be easily washed].”

For Linda, her customers in Europe seem more concerned with the ‘does this look nice on me’ question.

“The customers can know the story but it’s hard for them to imagine it.

People come [to ethical fashion shows] because they are interested in the cause, but then get seduced by the style. Very few people are attracted to the story. Of course, when I explain it, it’s better.”

To trace the journey of ethnic clothes back even further involves talking to Mrs. Huong of a local Cao Bang NGO called Decen. Since December 2010, the organisation has been developing the handicraft sector in remote areas of the province. Huong works with village women who produce fabrics and helps them to generate an income through sales in bigger cities domestically and internationally. Even for Huong, who works in close proximity to the weavers, the story of the process is complicated.

“We cannot tell how many days or hours the women spend making their products. They start planting hemp in March and then after tending to the crops, there are at least 14 steps to get the finished hand-woven material, which is usually ready to be sold in December.”

Before her NGO's involvement, Huong says that handicrafts generated very little income for the people of remote areas.

“If there is no income, they have to give up the activity and this part of the culture disappears. We try to keep the traditional culture alive and help people understand the value of their work.”

As Dirk and Linda are both aware, the preservation of culture demands some negotiation. Huong reveals that after her project began involving local weavers, the fabrics themselves had to be slightly changed.

“The main target-clients in big cities [mostly in Japan and western markets] don't like synthetic material and don't like the overly bright prints. We introduced colours that are still warm, but not so bright and colourful.” After the changes increased sales, Huong says that the people in the village also started to like the better quality material and the new line of colours.

Customer Connection From the practiced hands of women in distant mountain villages to peaking out from beneath the black leather jackets of Hanoi, the end of the fabric's journey is not difficult to spot if you're looking.

Seen manoeuvering along Tong Duy Tan’s bumpy brick, a pair of stylish turquoise flats sport an ethnic flair at the toe. When asked about her shoes, the wearer thoughtfully reveals, “I like the idea of having something connected to a place where I am a visitor, but it being something that can be incorporated into my life in a way that’s not just me completely adopting something different”.

Another city dweller wearing a denim vest with lapels infused with Sapastyle embroidery describes the appeal of the blend.

“I saw this and thought I could wear it without being totally symbolic of something different; it's part me and my style.”

Some may argue that combining fashion from around the world causes cultural confusion and dilution. Others may argue that it educates the public and supports people in remote areas. And some may cherish the story of how it came to be, or the simplicity of something handmade. Maybe it’s just because the colours are beautiful. Maybe it’s because Glamour magazine told us to.

Whatever the reason, it's pretty 'in' right now.

January 2012 The Word | 149

{crossword} Answers on page 4

TIME FOR BEDTIME STORIES 1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

70. Bitten by a bee 9

10

15

14 17

18

20

21

24

25

11

12

13

71. ____ Christian Andersen (Danish author of fairy tales)

16

DOWN

19 22

1. Walks back and forth nervously 2. St. Patrick’s Day matchers

23

3. Knife advertised on TV 26

30 33

34

27

31

35

36

28

29

5. Winner of a race against a 69-Across in a 31-Down fable

32

37

4. Unhappy

6. See 23-Down

38

7. In an inactive way 39

40

43

42

44

46

47

51

52 57

61

41

62

49

10. Mean monster of fairy tables

50

11. 29-Down character who befriended dwarfs: 2 Wds.

53

54

59 63

9. Fire-breathing fairy tale beast

45

48

58

8. Christianity or Buddhism: Abbr.

55

56

60

64

12. ____ Vegas 13. Have outstanding debts 18. “X-Games” cable station

65

23. With 6-Down, what some sandwiches are made on 26. Letters after A

66

67

68

69

70

71

28. Carpenter’s boring tool 29. Brothers ____ (German brothers Jakob and Wilhelm who collected fairy tables)

ACROSS

39. “Would ___ to you?”. 2wds.

30. Avails oneself of fables

1. “ The Three Little ____” (29-Down tale)

40. Made less severe

31. Greek author of fables

5. Classic Ford car model Hyph.

42. Bit of news

10. Norway’s capital

43. High cards

33. Creature that chased Jack down the beanstalk

14. Operatic solo

44. Cheeselike health food

34. Big producer of aluminum

15. “____ in the court!”

45. Disease-producing microorganism

16. Chew like a rat

46. Say “yes” without speaking

35. He rid Hamelin of rats by playing his flute: 2 Wds.

17. 29-Down character who lost her glass slipper at the ball

47. Part of a procedure

37. Despised

49. “Judging Amy” network

38. Jobs for jazz bands

19. ____-Red (29-Down character)

51. Faucet

41. “The Ugly ____” (71-Across tale)

20. Suffix with 33-Down

52. Word after lily or mouse

47. Health club

21. “Don’t move, doggy!”

53. Slide down a slope

48. Ballroom dances

22. What Jack’s beanstalk did

54. Atlas feature

50. Gates of Microsoft

24. Moo ____ pork (Chinese restaurant dish)

57. Persia, today

53. Roomy car

25. Pea container

59. It rings at the end of class

54. Chocolate-and-coffee combination

26. What Hansel was

60. Metal-bearing rock

55.”Chicago Hope” star Alan

27. Shake, as a tail

61. Dummy

56. Mexican coins

30. Prefix meaning “one”

58. Actress Russo

31. Clearasil may clear it up

63. 29-Down character who wandered into the home of three bears

32. “Ben-____” (1959 film that won 11 Oscars)

66. Chamber into which Gretel pushes the with

61. Homer Simpson’s exclamation

33. Spaces, as between teeth

67. Whale’s home

62. Eggs, to biologists

36. Storage place for tolls

68. Cincinnati’s locale

64. Month before Nov.

38. Best Picture of 1958

69. See 5-Down

65. ____ and aah

150 | The Word January 2012

59. Chicken cordon ____

pop lingo

Quiz

{trivia buff} Answers on page 2

WIN !!

ES PRIZ

The first and second person to send in all answers correctly to christine@wordhcmc.com will win a free 6 hour Survival Vietnamese Course at Vietnamese Language Studies Saigon (VLS) school.

1) In the world of music, what job did Simon Fuller get sacked from in 1997?

2) What religion's sacred writings are divided into the Tripitaka?

3) What overseas singer performed at the wedding of Prince Charles & Lady Diana Spencer?

4) David Sylvian was the former front man of what group?

5) What book in 1998 criticised Diana and was disapproved of by the royals?

6) Mike Oldfield had A Shadow of Light or A Moonlight Shadow?

7) What brand of science is the study of sound?

8) What British county has the longest coastline?

9) What animal provides 50 percent of all the protein eaten in Peru?

10) In the world of music what band is made up with the members Jim, Andrea, Caroline and Sharon?

11) Morel and Oyster are types of what vegetable?

Match the words below:

12) What football team enjoyed a UK chart entry with the song Blue is the Colour?

1. Village

a. khách sạn

2. Hotel

B. Bánh bao

3. Market

C. Chuối

4. Airport

d. mắt kiếng

5. Chopsticks

E. áo sơ mi

6. Glasses

F. Đũa

7. Dumplings

g. Làng

8. Tomato

h. Vỉa hè

9. Trousers

I. Nước

10. Banana

J. Sân bay

11. Shirt

k. Cà chua

16) What is the national anthem of Australia?

12. Toothbrush

L. Chợ

13. Money

m. Quần tây

14. Pavement

N. Bàn chải đánh răng

17) What small hand tool shares its name with a cocktail consisting of half gin or vodka & half lime juice?

15. Water

o. tiền

Write the antonyms for the words below: 1. Đắt - _________

6. Nhỏ - ________

2. Nóng - ________

7. Đẹp -_________

3. Ngon - ________

8. Ngắn - _______

4. dễ - __________

9. tốt - _________

5. mới - __________

10. mập - _________

13) What fashion items does Jimmy Choo design?

14) What world leader famously choked on a pretzel and fell off the couch bruising his face in 2002?

15) What American vocal group scored their first UK Top Ten Hit In 1996 with We Got It Going On?

18) What English city is home to theatres called The Royal Centre and The Lace Market Theatre?

19) What was the name of the pig in the movie Toy Story?

20) What Chaka Khan smash was written by Prince and featured Stevie Wonder?

January 2012 The Word | 151

on THE

STOOL Manager at The Deck and also the brains behind the kids’ fashion brand, Sa Majesté Bébé, Elisa Bui burns the candles at more than just both ends.

THE PERSON

THE buSiNESS

WHAT IS YOUR IDEA OF PERFECT HAPPINESS?

YOU RUN A FASHION COMPANY THAT MAKES TOP-END CLOTHING FOR YOUNG CHILDREN. WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES YOU FACE WITH YOUR COMPANY?

A fag after a shag!

WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST FEAR? Reincarnation. I definitely only want to live once.

WHAT HISTORICAL FIGURE DO YOU MOST IDENTIFY WITH? Attila the Hun. I like the idea of making glorious conquests against the odds.

WHICH LIVING PERSON DO YOU MOST ADMIRE? There are a few, but mainly people who have fought for their beliefs: Nelson Mandela, the Dalai Lama, Aung San Suu Kyi and Hilary Clinton.

WHAT IS THE TRAIT YOU MOST DEPLORE IN YOURSELF? Anger. I get it in bucket loads.

WHAT TRAIT DO YOU MOST DEPLORE IN OTHERS? Selfishness

WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST EXTRAVAGANCE?

The biggest challenge is to become profitable. To overcome it I try and sell more.

All our products are handmade from the best material, not massproduced in China. But it’s tough, nonetheless.

IT MUST BE HARD MIXING BOTH THE JOB OF RESTAURANT MANAGER AT THE DECK WITH YOUR WORK OUTSIDE. HOW DO YOU MANAGE TO DO BOTH? I don't sleep. No, just kidding. Let’s just say I do long hours. But it’s worth it.

IS IT DIFFICULT DOING BUSINESS IN VIETNAM COMPARED TO DOING BUSINESS IN FRANCE? I was born in France but my family is Vietnamese. Returning here is like coming home. But doing business is no different — it’s challenging wherever you go.

Shoes, shoes, shoes. I think me and Imelda Marcos could have been sisters. Although I reckon she had more pairs than me.

WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT RETURNING TO VIETNAM AFTER HAVING SPENT MOST OF YOUR LIFE ABROAD?

IF YOU COULD CHANGE ONE THING ABOUT YOUR FAMILY, WHAT WOULD IT BE?

People's permanent optimism and good humour. It’s a breath of fresh air when compared to all the gloominess of Europe these days.

The time they lived in...

152 | The Word January 2012

154 | The Word January 2012