CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HANOI EDITION
FEBRUARY 2013
NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG
February 2013 Word | 1
Contents
056
060
042
046
068
THE TALK 008 | Uncertain Beginnings
FEATURES 028
THE YEAR OF THE SNAKE
Preparing for Tet is not the same as it once was
030
033
REMAPPING THE OLD QUARTER
A new look at Hanoi's historic heart and soul
014 | The Buzz 018 | In the Papers
046
INSIDER 028 l Many Faces
054
Bottle and Soul
DAY TRIPPER
058
DEATH JAZZ FROM ABOVE
CAMA and the Japan Foundation have teamed up again
060
SUBOI
Vietnam's top rap artist is aiming for bigger things
062
CINEMATHEQUE
068 l Mystery Diner
Behind the scenes with Gerry Herman
069 l Street Snacker
066
Straits Up
Hanoi Panic
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070 City Guide COLUMNS 073 l Business Buff 076 l Travel Promos 088 l Wine Connoisseur 093 l Book Buff 094 l Cinema Buff 097 l For the Record 103 l Travel Notes
The home of water puppetry, Chua Thay is only 30km from Hanoi
Tea Stall Heroes
056 l Trendspotter
VUNG TAU
The seaside town in the south that's finally making its point
020 | Calendar 022 | Overscene
THE VILLAGE
The home of Vietnam's family-run, aluminium recycling business
010 | Just In 013 | The Exhibitionist
FEBRUARY 2013
033
006 | The Prelude
009 | The Big Five
wordhanoi.com
DINING WITH STARS
Is Vietnam about to get its first Michelin-star restaurant?
TIENG VIET FINAL SAY 110 l Sound Advice?
Trip Advisor is the go-to travel website. But can it be trusted?
112 l Last Call
On the decks with experimental musician Kanding Ray
February 2013 Word | 3
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL MADS MONSEN
AARON JOEL SANTOS Photo Editor aaron@wordhanoi.com
Art Director mads@wordhcmc.com
FRANCIS ROUX
DOUGLAS PYPER
Staff Photographer francis@wordhanoi.com
Staff Writer douglas@wordhanoi.com
HOA LE
ROSE ARNOLD
Staff Writer hoale@wordhanoi.com
Staff Editor rose@wordhanoi.com
KAITLIN REES
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor nick@wordhanoi.com
Features Editor kaitlin@wordhanoi.com
ADMINISTRATION LE DANG PHUONG TRANG
DUONG VY BAO
General Director bao@wordhanoi.com
Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com
ADVERTISING CHAU THI HUONG GIANG
AartMARK ALLAN Graphic Designer designer@wordhcmc.com
Sales Manager & Office Manager giang@wordhanoi.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS
hai@wordhanoi.com
For advertising enquiries please call Giang on +84 934 640668 or Bao on +84 938 609 689 Special Thanks to Nguyen Bao Ngoc, Pham Hoang Mien, Fabiola Buchele, Kim Megson, Steve Jackson, Elisabeth Rosen, Melanie Elfert, Truong @ Bookworm, Ed Weinberg, Huyen Tran, Hai Vu, Donald Berger, Mark Bowyer, Jasper Waale, Shane Dillon, David Robinson, Matt Dworzancyk and Derek Milroy Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Word — Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word (Ho Chi Minh city và HaNoi) của C.ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.
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4 | Word February 2013
Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Công Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Quận 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com
In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 92-2012/CXB/162-02/LĐ ngày 28/12/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 544/QĐCN-LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 28/12/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2013.
February 2013 Word | 5
The Prelude T
he Old Quarter stirs up a myriad of emotions. Some are negative — the traffic-clogged streets inevitably come in for a beating. So does the lack of preservation of what remains the most historic part of Hanoi. Yet much of the feedback is positive — ultimately the Old Quarter is this city’s historic heart. Contained within its fabled 36 streets is the ambience of a 1000-yearold metropolis, the former commercial centre of a city that has seen so much change with the ebb and flow of time. In our cover story this month we take a peek into the area as it is today and
examine a selection of wellknown streets to see if they still sell the wares after which they were originally named. Of course, most don’t, but it doesn’t take away from the old world charm. We also look at plans for the development and pedestrianation of the area and get the reaction of the Quarter’s residents, before moving onto a photo essay on Old Ha Noi and the city as seen through the eyes of a backpacker. While place, of course, is important, so too are the people. So, we talk to two three-wheeled vehicle drivers from the comfort of a tea stand, meet Gerry Herman,
INBOX ERM…
the creative force behind Cinematheque, include a profile of the country’s leading rap artist, Suboi, and discuss music and more with electronic music artist Kanding Ray. And that’s just the start. The Year of the Snake is here. So in keeping with local tradition, we wish you an khang, thinh vuong, health, safety and prosperity. Let’s hope 2013 can move us on from the struggles of the year just past. It certainly can’t be any worse! As ever, if you’ve got any comments, no matter how scathing, simply email us on editor@wordhanoi.com. We look forward to hearing from you.
CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HANOI EDITION
FEBRUARY 2013
NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG
THIS MONTH'S COVER Design: DH Advertising
DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL US AT editor@wordhanoi.com
FASHION
The illustration of the girl on the exercise bike (January 2013, page 61) is almost unbelievable! — DH
I loved the photo shoot of Vu Thao’s clothing (January 2013, page 46); I have known her as a friend for some time but this article really made me want to visit her for shopping, not just friendship. — BR
ARTS AND CULTURE
A SIGHT FOR SORE EYES
In the last year in Hanoi, things seem to be picking up on the arts and culture front. I wonder how Word has changed to meet the increase in activity in the city. — CS
The cover story of The Body (January 2013, page 34) seems quite interesting, but all the text on the page makes it difficult on the eyes to read the entire thing. Is there any way you can have fewer words while still telling the story? — PK
MODEL WANNABE
If you guys are ever looking for models, I’m very happy to volunteer. — NN
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- Authentic Indian Cuisine Serving both North & South Indian dishes - Cozy & Ambient setting - Halal Food - Free Home Delivery - Indoor Party facilities & Outdoor catering services - For details contact Gopi 0903 266 997 Or Ms Dung 093 657 2277 Add: 47 Lo Su Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: (84 4) 3935 2400/01 Email: Info@namastehanoi.com Fax: (84 8) 3935 2402 Website: www.namastehanoi.com
February 2013 Word | 7
The Talk
THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE
Tough Endings, Uncertain Beginnings What can we expect from the coming year?
I
n the run up to Tet at the Word office we’re under pressure. Due to the ten-day holiday when the country’s commercial life goes to sleep, we have to produce two issues in six weeks. It’s a tough call as we’ve also got the Hanoi Saigon editions to worry about. That doubles the output and adds to the madness. And with a lot of new staff, a growing number of interns, it’s a challenge that although tough, we know we’ll overcome. But it means long hours, sleepless nights and stress. This predicament is not just confined to ourselves. The whole of the media industry in Vietnam is under the same pressure. At a time when our compatriots around the world are just winding back into gear after the Christmas and New Year festive season, here the magazines, newspapers, radio and TV stations are desperately trying to deal with that last minute rush before the old year closes and the New Year is ushered in. Tight schedules with printing houses are made. Content is called in early. Editors work around the clock. Designers put in double shifts. This is no time for the lazy and unmotivated. Then there is finance. With the belief that all lose ends should be tied up before the holidays, everyone is desperately trying to pull in outstanding payments, and those
8 | Word February 2013
who need to pay are trying to avoid it. Even the banks are in on the act. This writer’s monthly message to remind them him about paying the credit card bill came a couple of days early. And the payment due date is moved forward, too — the fifth this month rather than the seventh. The 9th of February is like a Mayan-style watershed when all that we know or have known will come to an end.
The New Year That 2012 has been tough is something that all of us are attuned to. It has been written about, discussed and marveled on again and again and again. In the year just gone, despite continued growth, the country has seemed to come to a standstill. Even the English language teaching industry, one of the fields that has boomed year on year out, has started to struggle. For years language teachers in this country have benefited from over demand and under supply. Yet in the last few months demand has dropped and teachers are struggling for hours. So, what will 2013 hold in store? It’s a question on everyone’s lips and it’s a concern that as of yet has no answer. Based on the year just passed, it will be tough. When finances are stretched, buyers demand more, prices are squeezed and
suppliers have to work harder to meet their needs. Payment terms are prolonged — 60 days become 90, 90 days become 120 — and when the struggles start, tempers get lost with uncanny ease. According to this writer, 2013 will be no different to the year just pastgone by. At least initially. There is a lack of direction in Vietnam and until the visions of a glorious future are rebuilt, a purpose regained, we will struggle on trying to make loose ends tie, and our monies meet. The words of one businessman sum up the concerns. With offices all around Asia, for years it was the Vietnamese operation that was always profitable. Now, says the entrepreneur, he has had to lay people off. “I’ve never had to do that before,” he says with a forced smilesmiling, shaking his head. Behind the smile, there is a tangible sense of disbelief. But belief is vital to overcoming the tribulations ahead. Despite the pressure of completing the old and starting afresh, 2013 will have its opportunities. If we believe this and don’t get stuck on the fragility of our laurels, then The Year of the Snake may well be a year to remember . But it may also be a slippery one. certainly won’t be easy. — Nick Ross
THE
BIG
THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH I THINK IT’S A MARTEN Parisian born artist Baptiste Gilloz will have his first Hanoi opening on Thursday, Feb. 21. The graduate of Cergy's Arts School ENSAPC usually builds his shows as installations in which his paintings communicate in some way with one another across distinctive origins. Through the use of text in quotations and displaced language, Gilloz explores the limits of his freedom by looking for what is not obviously apparent on the surface. While the show enigmatically titled ‘I think it’s a marten’ may raise some eyebrows, question asking is what Gilloz’s work is all about. ‘I think it’s a marten’ opens on Thursday Feb. 21 at 6pm at 21 North Bar, 49 Duong Ven Ho Tay. Dj GiMiX will be making the noise that night and the show will run until Mar. 13
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AN UNAVOIDABLE NAME IN FRENCH JAZZ Bojan Z, the Belgrade-born, Paris-acculturated jazz piano legend, is performing at L’espace on Feb. 26. He’s played big festivals like the Montreal Jazz Festival and Copenhagen, incorporating subtle Balkan folkloric rhythms on a continental jazz sensibility. An everevolving musician, he’s been awarded the Prix Django Reinhardt for Musician of the Year from the French Academie du Jazz. Bojan Z plays L’espace at 24 Trang Tien, Feb. 26 at 8pm. Entrance is VND120,000 (VND60,000 for students). For more information go to www.bojanz.com
TET
1
the talk
A Feb. 9 nighttime stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake might go down in the books as the shiniest and most traffic-packed night of your life. However, for other Tet shimmer and glow, the Sofitel Summit Lounge will play host to a firework show on the 20th floor overlooking the city, with a complimentary cocktail. If you happen to be in Danang to catch the elusive sun during this lunar New Year, you can swing by the Dim Sum all-day buffet or book a special spa package at the Mercure Danang Hotel in Lot A1, Green Island, Hai Chau District. Otherwise, for those of you sticking around the city, we hope you enjoy the unusually quiet streets (at least after New Year’s Eve) and rare moments of traffic-free walking and cycling. Remember to visit your loved ones and wish everyone all of the luck in the world. Good luck! Happy snakes to all!
VALENTINE’S DAY
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Cupid’s only annual workday is coming up half way through February and Hanoi’s restaurants are affectionately falling over themselves to provide lovebirds a safe landing place. So be original and take your significant other on a date. And as the way to a woman (or man’s) heart is famously paved through her or his stomach, Cupid only knows you cannot go wrong with what is on offer for the lovefest of 2013. Hotel de l’Opera is putting on a fivecourse, French-themed evening (bookings at h7832-fb1@accor.com), George at Pullman’s has put out an invitation for a candelit buffet with roses thrown in for the ladies (www.pullman-hanoi.com) and at the Press Club ladies are quite literally bathed in champagne as the bubbly will flow all evening as a complimentary addition to their three-course menu (www. hanoi-pressclub.com). Add to this, the Sofitel Plaza beckons with a lobster feast (H3553-FB1@sofitel.com). Should anyone still be able to shake a leg after dinner, then head to the Fat Cat Bar for a night of Valentine’s Deep House. And for the singletons among you, just ask someone in the queue for your morning coffee to join you for dinner, because these heartily planned menus look too delicious to be missed.
MARATHON MADNESS If you’re still short a bit of practice for the proper marathons of this planet’s metropolieses, then this month is the time to start getting in shape and secure your bib number for the 21, 10 or 5 kilometer 2013 Phu Quoc Run. Instead of heading past skyscrapers the route will take you through some of the natural beauty the island is famed for. The promise of a plunge into the Gulf of Thailand at the finish line will serve as the perfect motivator for the anticipated crowd of international runners. Registration for this ‘run through paradise’ on the May 4 are now open at www.pqmarathon.com. Fees start at US$28 (VND580,000) per person
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February 2013 Word | 9
Just In ZENITH YOGA GOES CENTRE If your yoga efforts have never managed to stretch all the way to Tay Ho, then your camels, dogs and rabbits will all be grateful to hear that you can now practice them in the Old Quarter. Having just opened their second studio at 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Zenith Yoga is welcoming people of all walks of flexiblity. Whether you can get into a back bent from a standing position or have difficulty touching your toes with your fingertips, escape the frenzy city and breath more easily with Hanoi’s growing community of yoga enthusiasts. You can find out more about Zenith Yoga’s new venue by going to zenithyogavietnam. com or emailing info@zenithyogahanoi.com
FRENCH BOOKS GALORE Are your French language reading skills withering like a potted plant in the basement? Livres & Co is the place to go to find the words you’re missing. Next door to the hip Vietnamese restaurant Chim Sao and only a few steps away from the textiles market Cho Hom, the bookstore is cozily nestled in an old-style Vietnamese house on Ngo Hue. Selling new and second hand books in French, there is a large selection of children’s books and an interesting mix of new and second hand paperbacks for adults, including romance, science fiction, thrillers, poetry and finance. Livres & Co bookstore is open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday from 10am till 4pm and Fridays from 11pm till 6.30pm. For more info, visit http://librairiehanoi.blogspot.com or drop in at 63 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung
MIELE GUIDE Take a culinary vacation and discover Asia’s best cuisine and gastronomy, prepared by its most food savvy chefs and served in the continent’s most outstanding restaurants. The recently released fifth edition of the Miele Guide to the region’s finest restaurants will tell you just who in the region is at the top of their cooking game. Vietnam’s in there, too. So, have a look at what the judges have to say about the cuisine coming from the capital. You can secure your copy to the gastronomic hot spots at www.mieleguide.com for VND300,000
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VIETNAM IN FOCUS A new photography tour company based in Hanoi, Vietnam in Focus is organising workshops and tours in the capital, as well as further afield with a number of photographic adventures already having taken place across northern Vietnam. Set up in December and run by tour leader Colm Pierce, whose pictures have featured
in numerous publications worldwide such as The Guardian (UK), Le Figaro (France) and LA Times (US), Vietnam in Focus offers an alternative way to seeing Vietnam through a lens. Check out www.vietnaminfocus.com for more info on upcoming workshops and photography tours.
the talk
HANOI
DZUNG’S MASSAGE In the wake of the closing of Just Massage’s socially responsible studio, Ms. Dzung’s Massage opens. One of the most experienced therapists of the former establishment, which provided visually impaired youth from difficult economic backgrounds with vocational training and sustainable employment, the new massage studio has relocated to 68 Quang An, Tay Ho but will continue to offer the same services. In this little cozy corner, Ms Dzung's Massage therapists deliver a comfortable and professional environment and great massages. Please call 6671 2249 or email msdzungjustmassage@gmail.com for booking or any information about Ms Dzung’s Massage
TANNOY
FOODSHOP45 Having recently celebrated their ten-year anniversary, the Truc Bach-based Indian restaurant Foodshop 45 has opened a second outlet on Hang Buom. Selling the same tasty mix of North Indian curries, kebabs, starters and related fare, with local adaptations of wellknown dishes available for the less, well-a-tuned Indian cuisine market, the new Old Quarter eatery provides an extension the dining concept of the already well-known and much loved restaurant. Foodshop45 take two is located at 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3993 1399
He's chua Michael Jackson, but almost I think now more than ever, loose chatter is vital Those artist-model-boho things are always a LITTLE bit about saving the raccoons Don't insult my intelligence, I know that YouTube cat videos are a state of mind I'm trying to judge less, but I just can't get past the fire dancers That is correct, but not yet interesting
AQUARIUS CRUISES Launching towards the end of this month, a new boat will be weaving its way through the eighth wonder of the world, otherwise known as Halong Bay. Aquarius Cruises, with golden sails, polished wooden floors, and refined Asian décor, measures 38 meters of relaxed elegance. Guests staying in one of the 12 luxury cabins can kayak, practice tai chi in the mornings and take a cooking class. Cycling and trekking adventures on Cat Ba can also be arranged. Visit www.aquariuscruises.com for more information and to take advantage of the promotional deal starting Feb. 27
Last night's menu included: Prisoners of fat-baked comedy for six people on the table. A superior surfaced salted tamarind. A steamed grouper with salad and a blind magazine. Steamed crab discharge six children, type one. A sunny fried mackerel (fever). Most eating raw milk, baked The deconstruction of 'can' should be spelled with a k “Hey ladies, how are you this evening?” “You're walking into a war zone over here” February 2013 Word | 11
OUR MAN BY STEVE JACKSON
Saving the Old Quarter for Who? M ostly when I hear people commenting on the lack of conservation in Hanoi, it’s expats complaining that the concrete, mock-villa adjacent to them in Tay Ho is being torn down and replaced with apartments. It’s a reasonable representation that what we think needs conserving and what we think Hanoi really needs depends on our own agenda, background and experiences. Take this from the blog of Kai Speth, the general manager at the Metropole, on Hanoi's ‘crazy’ Old Quarter: “The motorbike-ridden sidewalks force you out into the street, where you’ve got to fend for your well-being as the vehicles hurry by. Contrast this with the streets of Hoi An’s Old Quarter where my family and I spent a couple of days some weeks ago. They shut down the streets of their Old Quarter to vehicles in the morning and evening, creating pedestrian zones that are without peer in Vietnam. I can’t wait to go back.” “And this is what we want for the Old Quarter. I know, I know, people will say I’m being precious with this appeal for pedestrian friendly zones in downtown Hanoi. What about the people trying to earn their daily bread! To that, I would say, the status quo is not working.”
Not for Tourists While the pedestrianisation of the Old Quarter isn’t necessarily a bad idea, let’s not pretend it’s going to be universally popular with traders. Mr Speth may be in the business of chocolate buffets and cocktails but a quick (motorbike ride) round the OQ and I’m spotting vast pots and pans, bamboo ladders and wet fish. In short, unlike Hoi An, not everyone is selling tailoring, shoes and “Don’t Worry be Hanh Phuc” t-shirts. The reason why they don’t just sell those, and it’s worth reminding ourselves of this, is that the Old Quarter isn’t just for foreigners.
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And, in short, that’s Hanoi and its Old Quarter’s biggest strength and weakness. The city is here for Hanoians. That’s why this is such a remarkable place to visit. You can dodge the traffic in the Old Quarter and see sights that you literally won’t see elsewhere. Frankly, I can buy the same tat in Hoi An as I can in Luang Prabang, despite the only culture the two cities share being that of tourism. Part of what makes the Old Quarter genuinely different is the traffic. It’s also the tatty plastic chairs. It’s the omnipresent blue tarpaulins, the red and white plastic sheeting, the rusted corrugated iron. Behind all of that you can spot glimpses of beautiful crumbling facades. If you save the facades at the expense of everything else then that's not saving the Old Quarter as we know it.
PHOTO BY:
YEOWATZUP
PHOTO BY: DOOGSTA
PHOTO BY: DANE BRIAN
Preservation? Preserving the Old Quarter would be about turning it into something it’s never been. A pedestrianised maze of coffee shops and travel agents. Women in traditional dress serving up bland westernised approximations of street food. Tailors making overnight suits (funny how we only consider sweatshops to be sweatshops when they’re making brand name clothes). Beyond that butchers (no), bakers (yes), candlestick makers (maybe). And the sad part is that’s exactly what is going to happen. As with everywhere else in the world, shopping will be done at supermarkets and out of town stores, and when the traders move out the coffee shops will move in. But this is the future and one that bears little resemblance to preserving the past or even the present. If you really do want to preserve Hanoi’s Old Quarter then get out of your comfort zone and go there. Buy all the big pans, bamboo ladders and wet fish you can carry.
PHOTO BY:
YEOWATZUP
PHOTO BY:
YEOWATZUP
The Exhibitionist
COLORS OF TIME Ever wanted a comprehensive visual history of that seductively small triangle of skin exposed by Vietnam’s traditional feminine outfit? The solo exhibition of photographer Nguyen Quoc Dzung (Dzung Art) showing at the Vietnam Fine Art Museum offers just that. Dzung will exhibit 39 large canvas photographs of old ao dais in Hanoi. In collaboration with Operation Smile, Dzung will donate four of his photographs to the charity. Colors of Time will open on Feb. 17 at 10am. The Vietnam Fine Art Museum is at 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
PATRICK DEVILLE AT L’ESPACE Find out about the background between France and Hanoi when L’espace hosts Prix FNAC and Prix Fémina-winning author Patrick Deville, lecturing on the heels of his recent revolution-laden novel Plague and Cholera. The fictional story of Yersin’s bubonic plague vaccine-developing work “is also a haunting rumination on the difficult birth of the 20th century.” These were changes that ran parallel to the development of both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. L’espace is at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. The lecture is free, starting at 3pm on Feb. 25. The lecture will be conducted in French and Vietnamese
the talk
ART TALK CAFÉ’S ‘MADE IN HANOI’ Not being deterred by the unlucky reputation of the number 13, the Art Talk Café is starting the 2013 art year with the work of 13 Hanoian artists and their equally numbered unique interpretations of the city. Titled Made in Hanoi, the exhibition will be displayed until Feb. 13. Ranging from the surreal to the realistic, from oil to lacquer, each artist’s set of paintings may look different, but what emerges is the inspiration each one draws from the city they live in. The resulting collage of artwork is as diverse, colourful and varied as Hanoi itself. The Museum of Ethnology is on Nguyen Van Huyen, Cau Giay and is open every day from 8.30am to 5.30 pm
CROSSED VISIONS AT THE MUSEUM OF ETHNOLOGY A province in France, Valde-Marne, and a province in Vietnam, Yen Bai, have separately but equally taken an interest in documenting their cultural festivals. At the Museum of Ethnology, you can explore these two provinces while considering what it is we all share as humans, and what practices are rooted in specific places and people. If you haven’t recently been to the Museum of Ethnology, here’s a good reason to get back there, or for a first time visit. The Museum of Ethnology is on Nguyen Van Huyen, Cau Giay and is open every day from 8.30am to 5.30 pm
WOMEN’S MUSEUM MUSIC MONDAYS Something you probably didn’t know: Every Monday afternoon from 3pm to 4pm you can go to the Vietnam Women’s Museum to listen to live traditional music. In an effort to introduce Vietnamese culture to an international audience, the Women’s Museum hosts this weekly concert. Samples of the sounds include cheo singing and xam singing and the artists Thanh Ngoan, Van Quyen and Thu Hien. Definitely worth checking out if your plan for 2013 is to break out of your regular routine. The Vietnam Women’s Museum is located at 36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Contact Ms. Bich Hang on 0983 621974 to inquire about tickets for the music performances
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The Buzz WORLD MUSIC SUNDAYS AT THBC
UNIS COMMUNITY EDUCATION PROGRAMME If your list of new year’s resolutions has ‘learn something new’ scribbled in between ‘giving up smoking’ and ‘help old ladies over the street’ then look no further than the UNIS January to May programme available at www.unishanoi. org. With classes ranging from Bollywood Contemporary Dance, Paper Magic and Porcelain workshops there is bound to be something that takes your fancy. Make sure you make a booking as those are required and then there is nothing left to do but gather a bit of enthusiasm for learning the new skills.
In addition to the film screenings of the Big Lebowski (Feb. 5) and Samsara (February 6) as a part of the cleverly named, Cinexin film events at the Hanoi Bicycle Collective, World Music Sundays press on this month. If you missed Phuong Dang on Feb. 3, you can still catch the singer songwriter Evan Thompson on Feb. 24. Hailing from Buffalo, New York, Thompson’s oeuvre has an American foundation that ranges from Dylan-esque folk to fast paced blues. His lyrics are often rooted in his experiences with travel and love, and take inspiration from his work with refugees around the world. Of his three albums, Pray For Rain is available on iTunes, for you to check out before the THBC event. World Music Sundays start at noon with entrance costing VND100,000. The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is located at House 44, Alley 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
BUFFET AT BRICKHOUSE A new restaurant of international cuisine has set down roots in Cau Giay and wants to get you to its buffet. From 11am to 2pm and then from 5.30pm to 9.30pm, dishes from across Europe, Korea, Thailand and Japan are up for grabs at VND329,000 per person. Brickhouse Bar and Restaurant is in Lot 2, Nguyen Khanh Toan, Cau Giay just off Duong Buoi close to the end of Doi Can
FATCAT BAR Fat Cat Bar is still going strong. Most notable this month is their relentless commitment to deep house on the day of love, with a special starting at 9pm of Valentine Deep House. May The Funk Be With You, the day before on Feb. 13, makes for an impactful one-two punch of the bar’s Wednesday and Thursday night events. Also for your listening and moving pleasure, Leftfield and Femi Kuti nights, as well as whatever the FatCat wants of rock, reggae, electronic, and psychedelic stuff. FatCat Bar can be found at 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem
POSITIVE MASS Cycling for the heck of it has roots reaching all the way back to 1992 San Francisco and has been brought to Hanoi by The Hanoi Bicycle Collective (THBC). Participants join bicycle enthusiasts in over 300 cities when they ride around town on the last Friday of a month. The meeting point for Feb. 22 is St Joseph Cathedral. Beyond that neither the route nor the destination are set in stone, the group simply decides where their two wheels shall take them that day. Join in The Hanoi Bicycle Collective’s positive mass cycle on Feb. 22, starting at noon from St. Joseph’s Cathedral
HANOI INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN As part of their TET promotion period, Hanoi International Kindergarten (HIK) is offering a 50 percent discount on enrollment fees all through February. What that means is a saving of VND6 million, which is a hefty load of lucky money and banh chung, or chocolate hearts and roses, whichever holiday your money is more likely to gravitate toward. Contact the administration at contact@hik.edu.vn or call 3719 1248 for more information
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REASONS TO GO TO SOFITEL PLAZA Brasserie Westlake, Ming Restaurant, and the Summit Lounge make up the hat trick that is Sofitel Plaza. This month, all three have something magnetic to draw you out of your little winter den and over to Thanh Nien Road in Ba Dinh. Brasserie Westlake is introducing new Spring Flavours with organic vegetables from Da Lat and Valentine’s Day lobster bisque coated in bourbon vanilla foam. Between Ming’s Hot Pot and the Summit Lounge’s everlasting swank, the Sofitel is a place to keep an eye on for the upcoming holidays. Sofitel Plaza is located at 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Brasserie Westlake is on the ground floor, Ming Restaurant is on the second floor, and the Summit Lounge is all the way up there
PEACE FOUNDATION TALKS IN MARCH The Peace Foundation continues its series of regular talks aimed at building bridges between countries on Wednesday Mar. 13 with a speech on the topic ‘How We Learn’ by renowned Vietnamese mathematician, Professor Ngo Bao Chau. Based at the University of Chicago, Bao Chau was awarded the Fields Medal in 2010, which is widely viewed as the highest honour a mathematician can receive, for proving the fundamental lemma for automorphic forms. Among various other awards, his proof was also selected by Time Magazine as one of the top ten scientific discoveries of 2009. At age 33 he became the youngest professor ever in Vietnam. Having worked at the Institute for Advanced Study at Princeton since 2007, he joined the mathematics faculty at the University of Chicago in 2010 and was in 2011 appointed by the Prime Minister of Vietnam to head the Vietnam Institute for Advanced Study in Mathematics in Hanoi. The talk will take place at the Hanoi University of Science and Technology, 1 Dai Co Viet, Hai Ba Trung. For further information and free seat reservations call 3868 3197 or 0913 574920, or email Hoang Xuan Lan on hxlan@mail.hut.edu.vn
DRINK SPECIALS ‘N ART Every Monday, the ‘buy one Hanoi Beer or Heineken get one free’ special performs the art of drinking from 5.30pm to 8.30pm. Additionally, every Thursday before 9pm, the ‘20 percent discount on all wines’ exhibits in both red and white. If the art space doesn’t get you in with its schedule of talks, exhibitions, and screenings, then the alcohol probably should. Manzi art space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh and is open daily from 10am until late. Sign up to get updates at manzihanoi@gmail.com
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MINI-FEATURE
The Madagui Trophy
F
Set in the heart of Cat Tien National Park, this year’s jungle-style triathlon is expected to be the biggest and best yet.
or contestants in the Ultra category it’s a grueling, 11-hour schedule. After a 2am start, each duo — organisers insist all entrants compete in twos — will run around 20km through the jungle in pitch black before taking on a 40km cycle ride. They then finish off the race with a 2km walk or float down the river. It’s a challenge that as race organiser Jean-Luc Voisin is quick to point out, is only for professionals. But it’s also a challenge that has made the Madagui Trophy unique among triathlon and marathon-style events in Vietnam. Now in its sixth year, the Madagui Trophy has grown from an event attracting participants based in Southern Vietnam to a national competition that appeals to teams from the whole of the country. It also has entrants from as far afield as Europe, Australia and Hong Kong. The contest is run for a good cause, too — all proceeds go to a sustainable development project run in conjunction with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) to protect the rainforest. The community project is focused on Ta Lai Village close to Cat Tien National Park. The home of the S’Tieng and Ma minorities, the project partners have worked with the local population to plant economically viable cocoa plantations in reforested land. These will soon be certified organic.
Not Just for Pros Yet while professionals may enter the Ultra
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race, there are two other categories for those who quite simply want a challenge. The Extreme category is an eight-hour event starting at 5am while the Adventure race starts at 7am. For the first time, this year there is also a kids’ race. Regardless of the category, all contestants need to have completed their challenge by 1pm when the organisers hold the closing ceremony. “At the beginning it was only expats taking part,” says Jean-Luc. “Every year, more and more Vietnamese people are entering — their approach to leisure is changing. Many Vietnamese people are looking for peaceful places, they have a new appreciation of mother nature.” This is represented by the growing number of participants — a 10 to 20 percent increase year in, year out. In 2012, 250 people took part. This year Jean-Luc expects it to rise to 300. He adds: “What is attracting people is the image of the jungle in Vietnam.” An additional challenge is the good cause aspect, and “how to protect what remains of the jungle.” The Madagui Trophy will take place from Mar. 9 to Mar. 10. For security reasons, contestants need to register and complete the challenge in pairs. Registration can be done online at www.vietadventure.vn and is free of charge. Contestants pay for accommodation, transfer from Ho Chi Minh City and, if necessary, equipment rental.
the talk
{T ECH Tips}
MILONGA Attention all Tango lovers: if you so desire, you can dance three nights a week. Saturdays at Chez Mai, 88 Lang Ha, Thursdays at La Bomba on 46 Ngo Huyen, and Wednesdays at Xich Lo Café on 33 Vu Ngoc Phan. Following the dancing routine will get you sweating for sure, and given the empirical evidence of one personal anecdote, even improve the quality of your sleep.
** Passwords * *
C SLIM SALAD Still fondly reminiscing about the holiday feasts not so long gone? Perhaps Slim Salad’s new year 10 percent discount will make you feel better about having to put away the comfort food of the colder months and introduce salads
and sandwiches back to your daily intake. Visit their website www.slim.co.vn for more information about where and what to find at their outlets
an’t live with them and can’t live without them. If you haven’t guessed what I’m talking about, it’s passwords. Sometimes they are the bane of our lives as we waste hours trying to reset them from our online banking or credit card accounts through to expat forums and of course email and Facebook. Passwords are not a new phenomenon, though. Encryptions and codes were probably used as far back as during the times of Adam and Eve when they entertained themselves with secret games in The Garden of Eden. So they are nothing new. But we struggle with remembering them or even choosing a good, solid and safe password.
Strong or Weak?
HOTEL DE L’OPERA Is there anything in this world better than free corkage Mondays? We obviously could come up with a long list of possibilities but once you’ve rolled into the Hotel de l’Opera and are sitting down with your that bottle of wine that you expertly paired to go with your classy lunch at the Café Lautrec, that list may not matter. Other offers at the Hotel de l’Opera include the Swinging Fridays and Saturdays with a live acoustic band, absinthe sour cocktails and an Asian Spices tapas tree, as well as an "inspired business lunch" with a name alone that should pique your imagination enough to go check it out. Hotel de l’Opera is at 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Swing by to inquire about these and the many other offers on the white table-clothed tables
What is a good password I am often asked? Well, a good password is one you are able to remember, but not at any cost. I have a party trick when I join a group of people for a drink to try and shake them into affirmative action. I try to guess their passwords after meeting them for only a few minutes — it often get some gasps of astonishment. So if I can so easily guess these important security features of every day online life, what is there to stop others from following suit and hacking into our lives? Think about it, if somebody is able to guess your Gmail account password, they own your digital life. This could cause a lot of personal damage or even worse, depending on who you are, what secrets you are hiding. Photos and videos which are for personal perusal could go viral.
Of course it is also possible to reset passwords for all accounts that have your Gmail account as your recovery email account. And if you are cautious you should have no problems in choosing a good password that only you can guess. Yet, is your password made up like the one below? First name + birthday/year; family name + birthday/year; boy/girlfriend name + year; or a password with ascending number sequences.
One Log In Only So if you want my advice, choose a strong password but never use it for more than one log in. A high-end computer is able to attempt to guess passwords at a rate of 33 billion password guesses every second using this software — http:// whitepixel.zorinaq.com. So using a ‘word’, regardless of how long it is, is not a good idea. Make your password more like a sentence using phrases, names from events combined with dates or times. For example: BenandErian2kids (caps, numbers, +8 characters). This is easy to remember but hard to guess. Perhaps use one of the many free online services here that can help you test the quality of your password. This one is from Microsoft — http://goo.gl/ wQsSy. Or you can randomly generate a password tool from PCtools (Syma qualintec) — http://goo.gl/RDAD. Jasper Waale is a computer and online specialist. You can contact him by emailing jasper.o.waale@ matrongvang.com
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In the Papers the talk
THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS
VIS-A-VIS The forgotten industry, if you can call it that, tourism was whacked on the head again by the authorities with an increase of visa fees by almost 100 per cent last month. Tourists come to Vietnam not because of any incentives or attractions but out of intrigue. This may change if they feel they are being overcharged, with the one-time visa fee having been raised from US$25 (VND525,000) to US$45. Fees for granting visas with validity of less than one month, less than six months and over six months are set at US$65, US$95 and US$135 respectively.
THAILAND BY SEA The Mekong Delta province of Kien Giang will be running sea tourism services to Cambodia’s Sihanoukville and Thailand's Trat and Chanthaburi provinces from later this year. When in place the new route is sure to attract international visitors, especially European travellers who want to see a bit more of Southeast Asia at a reasonable price and much more quickly than treacherous bus journeys. Vietnam will also benefit from the route as many foreign visitors travelling to Thailand and Cambodia will head to Phu Quoc Island, an offshore part of Kien Giang, on the way.
VIETNAM ANNOUNCES A NEW OIL REFINERY Vietnam's second oil refinery, the US$9 billion Nghi Son plant, is expected to begin commercial production in 2017, PetroVietnam announced earlier this month. Construction is scheduled to start in the second quarter of this year, with an expected completion date in the fourth quarter of 2016. The 400-hectare plant will source crude oil from Kuwait, and will have a total capacity of 200,000 barrels a day and 10 million tonnes a year. It will be Vietnam’s second refinery after the Dung Quat Refinery in Quang Ngai Province, which started commercial operations in 2009. The plant will help meet some 40 percent of the domestic demand for fuel, while Dung Quat currently serves 30 percent — decreasing foreign fuel reliance to 30 percent country-wide.
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A SOUTHERN FLOWERING Prices have increased again, but with Tet around the corner flowers are in sharp demand. Due to a number of factors — such as unfavourable weather, poor harvests and a bad market in 2012 — prices of chrysanthemums, orchids and yellow apricot trees have skyrocketed, up some 20 to 30 percent from 2012. Flower villages in the south, such as Sa Dec in Dong Thap province and Cai Mon in Ben Tre Province, have been taking advantage, transporting flowers to the north, where the desired blossoms are in short supply.
the talk
BEAR RESCUE CENTRE RESCUED In a dispute between wildlife activists and land developers, the final resolution has come out in favour of the bears. Vietnam’s sole bear sanctuary, Tam Dao Bear Rescue Center, threatened by the possibility of eviction, is now being allowed to grow with its 104 Asiatic black bears rescued from illegal wildlife trading. The Hong Kong-based animal welfare group Animals Asia set up the centre in 2005, when the agriculture ministry issued a directive on phasing out bear farming and the painful extraction of bear bile. The bile is used in traditional medicine, and sold for between US$3 (VND63,000) and US$6 (VND126,000) per milliliter. Around 3,500 bears are being farmed in Vietnam. Vietnam, China and South Korea are the only three countries in the world to legalise bear farming.
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February CALENDAR TUE
MON
04
FREE CORKAGE MONDAYS. Monday’s lunch and dinner at Café Lautrec, Hotel de l’Opera. Bring your own wine for free.
05
ZOUK NIGHT! 8pm every Tue @ La Bomba Latina
CINEXIN HANOI. 7pm every first Tue. of the month at THBC THE LONELY LANGUR EXHIBITION. Until Feb. 6 at Manzi
11
12
SALSA PARTY. 8pm every Tue. @ Olympic Dance Club
Z HOUR. Everyday from 5pm to 7pm at Fa Fee Verte bar. 50% off standard drinks
HANOI PUB QUIZ. @ R&R Tavern every Tuesday, 9.30pm to 11.30pm
TET BUFFET DINNER. From Feb. 9 to 11 at Novotel Ha Long Bay. Call 333848108 for more info.
WOMEN’S GAELIC FOOTBALL TRAINING. @ Dang Thai Mai football field every Tuesday
18
19 BEER PROMOTION. 5.30pm to 8.30pm every Mon. at Manzi. Buy 2 Hanoi or Heineken get 1 free
25
TOASTMASTERS. 6.30pm to 8.30pm every Tue. @ KOTO on Van Mieu
“BUDDY LOVE” LIVE. 8.30pm every Tue. @ Panacea Cafe
QUIZ NIGHT. 7.30pm every Tue. @ Puku FREE VIETNAMESE CLASSES. @ Puku every Wednesday, 7pm TRADITIONAL MUSIC PROGRAM. 3pm to 4pm every Mon. at Vietnam Women’s Museum. Call (04) 39361869 for info
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CROSS VISIONS EXHIBITION. Until Jun. 16 at Vietnam Museum of Ethnology
THU
06
07
CINEXIN HANOI: SAMSARA. 7pm @ THBC
AEROSMITH NIGHT. 9pm @ FatCat bar
LIVE FLAMENCO GUITAR TRIO. 8.30pm every Thu. at Don’s Bistro WINE PROMOTION. Before 9pm every Thu. at Manzi. 20% discount all wines
13
14 MILONGA. Every Wed. @ Xich Lo cafe
VALENTINE DEEP HOUSE NIGHT. 9pm @ FatCat bar
MUSIC NIGHT WITH DJ GLASER. Every second Thu. of the month at the Rooftop ELEGANT VALENTINE’S DATE. At Press Club VALENTINE ME. At Hotel del’Opera
20
FREE BIRD BAND “LIVE”. 9pm every Wed. @ Polygon Musik Cafe
26
WED
LEFTFIELD NIGHT. 9pm @ FatCat bar
21
DEEP HOUSE. 9pm @ FatCat bar
EVERYDAY PEOPLE. 8pm every Wed. @ Finnegan’s Irish Pub
ORDER ANY MEXICAN PIZZA, GET CHICKEN NACHOS. Every Thu. at Don’s
LIVE MUSIC AT TAY TAP. 8pm every Wed. at Tay Tap Bar and Grill
MILONGA. Every Thu. @ La bomba latina (46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem)
27
FEMI KUTI NIGHT. 9pm @ FatCat bar
SOCIAL TOUCH RUGBY. 8pm every Wed. @ Song Hong Stadium WEEKLY OFFICIAL MEETING OF COUCHSURFING HANOI. 7pm every Wed. at Climax
28
SPOTLIGHT! @ Hanoi Rock City, 8pm every Thu.
7777 SPEED DATING. 7pm every Thu. at Duc de Hanoi (15 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho) LIVE PIANIST @ Panacea Cafe, 8.30pm every Thu. & Sat. FITNESS SESSIONS. 6pm every Thu. at Hanoi Ois Netball Club
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhanoi.com by no later than Feb. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
FRI
01
02
SAT
SCREENING OF MIA ET LE MIGOU. 8pm at L'Espace
DEEP HOUSE. 9pm @ FatCat bar
MADE IN HANOI EXHIBITION. Until Feb. 13 at Art Talk cafe
WORLD MUSIC SUNDAYS: PHUONG DANG. 12pm @ THBC
LANGUAGES EXCHANGE. 3pm every Sun. at Climax
VIETNAMESE NIGHT MARKET. 6.30pm to 9pm every Sat. at Novotel Ha Long Bay
08
03
SUN
09
FIREWORK SHOW. At Summit Lounge
ARGENTINE TANGO- MILONGA. 8pm every Sat. at Goc Ha Noi
LIVE TRADITION VIETNAMESE MUSIC. 8.30pm every Sun. @ Don’s Bistro
10
SUNDAY ROASTS. 11.30am every Sun. At Hanoi Cooking Centre
SUNDAY BRUNCH. 11.30 am to 2.30pm at Movenpick
VIETNAMESE CLUB. 4pm every Sat. at R&R Tavern
15
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VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE CLUB. 7pm every Fri. at Tea Talk WEEKLY PERFORMANCES OF CA TRU. 8 to 9pm Every Wed., Fri. and Sun. at Ca Tru Hanoi Club
22
JAZZ QUARTER, FUNKY, FUSION. 8.30 pm every Wed., Fri. & Sat. at Don's
A LA CARTE BUFFET. 11am to 2pm and 5.30pm to 9.30pm Friday and weekends at Brickhouse
23
DJ NIGHT. @ Summit Lounge, 9pm every Fri. & Sat.
MILONGA. Every Sat. @ Chez Mai
POSITIVE MASS. Last Friday of every month at St Joseph Cathedral
17
LIVE JAZZ BAND. 7pm to 9pm every Fri. and Sat. at La Fee Verte bar, Hotel de l’Opera
24
COLOURS OF TIME EXHIBITION. 10am at Vietnam Fine Arts Museum (66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh)
WORLD MUSIC SUNDAYS: EVAN THOMPSON. 12pm @ THBC
SUNDAY WORSHIP SERVICE. 10.30am every Sun. at Hanoi Club Hotel 'BABYLON BURNING' SUNDAY AFTERNOON SESSION. 2pm every Sun. at Panacea Cafe
OVER
SCENE
A SENSE OF FASHION Ladies and the few odd gentlemen gathered at Exchange Café to have a good rummage through each others’ wardrobes, with one girl’s castoffs becoming another one’s treasured new fashion item.
PHOTOS PROVIDED BY EXCHANGE CAFÉ
AN ARTIST’S VIEW OF THE WORLD Everything about the Goethe Institute’s photo exhibition of German artist Ulrike Ottinger was international: the people who know her, those she portrayed and those who came and see the collection. Her extraordinary style of travel documentation drew and delighted visitors throughout January.
PHOTOS BY NGUYEN BAO NGOC
KANDING RAY Hanoi Rock City brought internationally renowned Kanding Ray to the club shores of Hanoi. With friends both from Vietnam and abroad, the electro wizard brought fresh tunes to the capital and the crowd danced accordingly.
22 | Word February 2013 PHOTOS PROVIDED BY HANOI ROCK CITY
PHOTOS BY NGUYEN BAO NGOC
LE CAT TRONG LY Music lovers got treated to two chilly January evenings of one of Vietnam’s best-loved singer songwriters. Le Cat Trong Ly and friends delighted the audience at l’Espace.
SENSES CLUB LAUNCH The launch of the Senses Club high-end gift catalogues drew a colourful crowd to the Vedette Lounge PHOTOS BY NGUYEN BAO NGOC
SOCIAL ENTERPRISE NETWORKING Pots ‘n Pans once again showed that it’s a multi-purpose venue, with it hosting a social enterprise networking in mid January
PHOTOS PROVIDED BY POTS N PANS
Insider
TEA STALL HEROES/ THE YEAR OF THE SNAKE / MAN XA / COVER STORY PHOTO BY MATT DWORZANCZYK
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February 2013 Word | 25
THE MANY FACES OF HANOI
Tea Stall Huddled under tarpaulin on a wet January morning, Douglas Pyper finds two generations of men who are lauded in Vietnam. Photos by Francis Roux
T
ran Viet Hung is as tough as old boots, or in his case, an old boot. In 1982 he lost one of his legs to cannon fire. The northern province of Vinh Xuyen has always been blessed by mountains, jungle and rice terraces, but in the early 1980s it was much less peaceful for men like Hung. He froze on mountain tops eating canned Russian spam for the best part of a year before being evacuated after he lost his leg. “It was hard,” remembers Hung. “It was cold and we didn’t have anything to smoke — and we had no lovers!” The stocky man balances levity and weight easily, casually recalling that “there was just the thought of how to protect the country, nothing else.” Immediately after the war, disabled veterans enjoyed priority in many aspects of life and had enough to get by during the rationing period of the mid-1980s. The sacrifice of Hanoi’s war vets has afforded them a prestigious position in society. They are openly known as the demographic that can never be alienated, which is why they are the only people allowed to drive threewheeled tuk-tuk-esque vehicles around the city. Not so openly, they are considered to be ‘untouchable’ in society at large. It is commonly whispered at tea stalls not frequented by these heroes that they are particularly popular recruits among anyone seeking ‘enforcement’. But Hung had a much more wholesome future ahead of him.
From One Para to Another Between hits on his thuoc lao and sips of his hot tea, Hung tells about the next chapter of his life — as an international athlete. At a time when most Vietnamese could only dream of going abroad, Hung was representing Vietnam in international paragames. He competed in Japan, Thailand, South Korea and even against China. “The war was a different time and place from everything,” says Hung, so when competing against his northern neighbours he felt no animosity. Winning is important to every athlete, but for participants in the para-games, so much of the competition is against yourself and your disability that there isn’t much emotion left for your opponents. It wasn’t until 2005 that Hung took to his three-wheeler, modified so that he can change the gears with his hand rather than his missing left leg. Despite his pension as a veteran, Hung still needs extra cash to make ends meet and pay for his kid’s education.
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Heroes That’s fine with him because many people are in the same boat as the country adapts to new market systems. But what does rile him is the fake veterans driving around Hanoi in three-wheelers. Only veterans are allowed to drive these machines which clog the city’s already tight arteries. Drivers are stopped and checked periodically in an attempt to make sure only true veterans are using the vehicles, but a few days later, the fake vets are back out on the roads. “It’s not fair because they’re stronger than me,” says Hung. “So of course lots of customers would rather use them.” Ironically, at his own game he “can’t compete.”
“They are openly known as the demographic that can never be alienated, which is why they are the only people allowed to drive threewheeled tuk-tuk-esque vehicles around the city”
Paying your Dues If working well past pension age and spending most of his time sitting at tea stalls doesn’t sound like a fair exchange for his sacrifice, nobody told Hung. He’s more than happy with the way the country has compensated him and reckons most agree. Sitting next to Hung is the proud figure of Nguyen Hung Son, a driver on the Ho Chi Minh Trail during the American War. Still in perfectly ironed combat fatigues, 40 years after his seven years of active service ended, this veteran draws no divisions between his generation and Hung’s. Outside of meetups and veteran conferences, vets of all generations get together just to chat, help each other out, find out who’s sick and get all the latest news on each other’s family. Once you’re in the veterans club, there is no getting out of it, and nobody would want to. The men’s sacrifice and that of men like them is never questioned. When discussing the latest wranglings in the East Sea, both men are quick to distance themselves from having opinions on the matter. “That’s a [different] issue,” says Hung. “I’m just getting enough money to feed my kids and make a living.” But if the chips are down, the men are unequivocal in their response. With both crutches resting on his remaining leg, Hung is a little reminiscent of the defiant Black Knight in The Life of Brian as he says: “If the country calls then everyone has to fight.” Son, too, needs no encouragement. “If the country called again then me and my family would fight again. I’m old but can still do a few jobs suitable for old people.” With the light resignation of a man who never questions the cause, or the price he adds: “If the country calls, you have to go, that’s it.”
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TET
The Year of the
S n a k e With the Lunar New Year on our doorstep, Hoa Le and Rose Arnold speak to Hoang Ngoc Anh and her great grandmother Pham Thi Tuyet to find out how the celebration of Tet has changed over the generations. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos 28 | Word February 2013
Preparations for Tet This year New Year’s Eve is on Feb. 9 and the Year of the Snake begins on Feb. 10. MRS PHAM: A week before the New Year we say goodbye to the Kitchen Gods who are believed to live with the family. In the past we bought fish, real ones, and brought them home to worship. Then we took them to the nearby river or lake to release them. We believe that the gods ride the fish back to heaven. Now, many families don’t do this. Some cook the fish and eat them after worship, some buy fish made of votive papers and burn them after. NGOC ANH: Before Tet I clean, we believe that the cleaner the house is, the more luck
we get. We go to buy stuff for Tet, kumquat, peach blossom trees, a lot of flowers. During Tet most of the stores are closed so you have to do lots of shopping.
New Year’s Eve On the final day of the lunar year, families say goodbye to the spirits of the past year at midnight. Traditionally firecrackers, gongs and drums are used to ward off evil spirits, although firecrackers have been banned since 1995 except in controlled circumstances because of accidents. NGOC ANH: I miss firecrackers, I miss the smell. And seeing the pink and other colours on the ground after, it was cool.
heaven and earth). O mai (fermented fruits) and hat dua (roasted watermelon seeds) are common snack foods — the red of the hat dua is said to bring good luck, the o mai are often seasoned with warming ginger. MRS PHAM: We used to make banh chung in the past because we didn’t have much money. It is traditional and it’s fun to have the whole family gathering around the fire to wait for the banh chung to cook overnight. For me, it was the best part of Tet. It’s a lot of work. We had to buy the dong leaves, prepare the stuffing including the bean paste, pork and rice. Then we wrapped the banh chung and boiled it overnight. We used to play Vietnamese card games so that we wouldn’t fall asleep. It was really fun. Nowadays, people don’t bother to do that themselves, they buy banh chung from the store instead. My family stopped making it about 10 years ago. NGOC ANH: Traditional Tet food is the same, it doesn't change. In the olden days it was more special because people could only have [these dishes] during Tet, now we can have them any time. I don't love the food but I like cooking it for other people — it makes me feel very happy.
Tet Today
New Year's Eve I watch fireworks with my friends or my younger sister. 12 o’clock is special, it reminds you of people you love. We call and text to wish each other good things. After that I go to the pagoda. Some years, after the pagoda my friends come to my home, we eat and drink until four in the morning. MRS PHAM: Every family prepares special food to worship the gods at 12. It’s believed that at that moment, the gods of the old year leave the earth and the gods of the New Year will come back.
The First Visitor The first non-family member to enter a home
in the New Year is important. Being asked to be this person is deemed an honour. NGOC ANH: We have a fortune reading done to see what horoscope the first person needs to be. It is different each year, depending on what the book says. We will then invite that person to come first for the New Year, they have to come and say lots of good wishes. It is very lucky to be invited as the first person for the New Year.
Cuisine for Tet Traditional foods include boiled chicken, bamboo root and pig’s feet soup, spring rolls, gio cha (sausages) and banh chung, banh day (sticky rice cakes symbolising
NGOC ANH: Because we still live with parents and grandparents we follow the traditions, but I think my generation are starting to have different ideas. Normally we just gather together but now you can have the chance to travel wherever you want. For the first time this year I might go away. Relatives will say, have you got married? Do you have a boyfriend? During Tet there are lots of wishes to get married. This is one reason I want to travel! Tet isn't as fun or exciting as it used to be. In the past we didn't have things, our lives were not so rich, Tet was the biggest celebration, a great time to drink and eat. Now this is not so special. MRS PHAM: In the past, no matter how far my relatives lived away from home, they always tried to come back. Now my relatives, and grandchildren do not always come home for Tet so it is sad for me. Tet is different in different years. During the war, Tet was simpler. I used to make banh chung, write my family name on each one and send them to the battlefield for the soldiers. But in general, if Tet in the past had 10 traditions, now people simplify it and may only do one or two things. This interview has been edited and condensed. Hoang Ngoc Anh is 27 years old and her great grandmother Mrs Pham Thi Tuyet is 92.
February 2013 Word | 29
THE VILLAGE
Man Xa
The home of Vietnam’s family recycling business, the pollution and waste from smelting aluminium and new production is putting this one-industry village under threat. Words by Hoa Le. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos
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W
hen a baby turns one in Korea the parents often host a special party to celebrate. The most important ritual of the party is when the child is seated in front of a table covered with various objects that are said to predict his or her future. If the baby picks up a thread, it is believed they will live a long and healthy life. Money suggests that the child will be wealthy. And if the baby picks up a toothbrush it is thought that they will become a dentist. While the objects that are placed on the table vary from family to family, the custom represents not only the expectations, but the love parents feel for their children. But in a small village in the Delta, in the northern part of Vietnam, where a clear
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“Chimneys from the local households omit vigorous black fumes and the uncomfortable aroma of the burning process tinges the air. It is a smell hard to describe… Even the rice fields are covered with the dark residue” unpolluted river once ran through the green fields, there is a village in which babies receive the same love from their parents yet have their futures mapped out even before they can choose either thread or toothbrush. Their career path is one that is passed down from one generation to the next. The grandparents followed one career, the parents do the same, and when the baby grows up, they too are expected to carry on the tradition. That village is named Man Xa. Lying along the banks of Vu Huyen Khe River in Bac Ninh Province, it borders Hanoi in the north. Even today, hundreds of households recycle aluminium scrap and make pots to sell to the market or aluminium ingots to sell to construction firms. The activities involve everything from collecting, sorting, processing and preparing the materials to melting and moulding them into new products. Every day a portion of those villagers scour the country to collect aluminium scrap. Once brought back to Man Xa, the recycling process is carried out inside each house using simple facilities and equipment. The villagers here have been recycling metal for over 50 years. But
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it looks like it’s about to change.
Meltdown “I was born in a family doing this. I grew up stirring the metal pots. And so did my children,” says Huan about the family business. Now in her 60s, a typical winter day sees Huan getting up at 5am and hurrying to start her work. She sits down on a tiny wooden stool in her front yard and uses a small electric screwdriver to take out every screw and other non-aluminium part from aluminium door frames and anything else that can be recycled. She is preparing the materials for another worker to put them in a melting furnace, which is simply a big pot placed on top of a waist-high brick oven in the back yard. Looking at the aluminium scrap stocked up in a pile as high as the height of two humans, Huan says she will finish the preparation work in about two days. The discarded aluminium has been collected by Huan’s offspring using their own trucks. She can’t hide the pride she has for her children — all are succeeding in their work. She points to the big concrete,
three-storey house next door. “That is my daughter’s house. [The money to build it] all came from this job.” It’s a Saturday afternoon and in another house, the inhabitants are working meticulously. Located a few doors down from Huan, a woman named Thoa is examining the contents of dozens of big plastic bags that contain a colourful array of used beverage cans that have been crushed and neatly stored. She is checking if they are all dry and correctly weighed. Thoa says everything that contains aluminium is collected and melted, not just beverage cans. Sometimes her family even buys the parts of out-of-service military aircraft or a train carriage from close by Quan Do Village, to melt it all down and get the aluminium. The roads, walls and roofs of every house and even the few trees in Man Xa Village are all covered in the greyish ash that is left over from the molten aluminium process. Chimneys from the local households omit vigorous black fumes and the uncomfortable aroma of the burning process tinges the air. It is a smell hard to describe but easily felt and makes anyone passing through the village
wrinkle their noses or roll up their scarves to block out the stench. Even the rice fields are covered with the dark residue and so is the dyke road along the river. It is not a town where many would choose to live, yet it is home for several generations of families.
Dangerous Work “It’s hard work, but we are so used to it now,” says Huan. “When you work and live here for a long time, you don’t notice the smell any more. And the ash is so familiar that we don’t see it anymore.” She then turns to me and asks if visitors like myself would feel uncomfortable coming out here. She is so busy that she rarely considers the polluted and toxic environment in which her family lives. “Everyone in my family is healthy,” she adds. “No one has been sick from this.” In another three-storey house in the village, Phu and his two sons are working on their latest aluminium haul. The three men are bare-footed, stepping back and forth over a carpet of sand and metal residue. They are pouring a silver-coloured liquid which has been heated to several thousand degrees centigrade into wooden covered moulds to make cooking pots and lids. It is a terrifying process and it is easy to imagine the worst case scenario, spilt liquid falling on uncovered parts of the body. Phu, though, is unperturbed. “It’s great to do this job in bare feet during the winter,” he says. “In the summer,
we have to wear shoes because the sand underneath is really hot.” He admits to having made mistakes in the past and being burnt on a number of occasions. But he can’t recall how many scars he’s got — instead he’s confident that he won’t have any more accidents. “It happened a lot when I first started doing this,” he explains. “Now I’m so used to the job that I never get burned.” His family makes aluminium pots, kettles, and basins to sell to the market. His two sons, one is 18 and one is 20, are both helping him with the business and Phu has no complaints about that.
A Changing Future The lives of his family and those of other villagers were all set to continue in the same fashion until recently, when the media began reporting on the alarming levels of pollution and toxic waste in Man Xa. Now questions are being asked and it’s under threat. As we’re taking a few photos at one house, a small voice asks us: “Are you coming to film the pollution in our village?” It is a young girl, probably no more than 10 years old on a bicycle standing next to a group of friends. I smile at her and ask back: “Will you do this job when you grow up?” She smiles and shakes her head in a resounding “no”. Then she bikes away with her friends. Her shadow gradually fades away on the grey and dusty road.
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The Old Quarter is without doubt the heart and soul of Hanoi. These winding narrow streets, as we know them today, first took shape shortly after Vietnam gained its independence in the 11th century and King Ly Thai To resurrected his palace on its grounds. What began as a sprinkling of tiny market stalls had turned into a fully bustling borough by the end of the 13th century, as a larger number of workshops began to cluster around his castle walls to manufacture and sell their wares to the overlaying business quarters. These close-knit communities of labourers and craftsmen, who worked and lived together formed guilds to safeguard their techniques and constructed temples to honour their art. Each guild had their individual temples and worshipped a separate patron saint. Because of this, each guild was separated into blocks and thus each street was named according to the goods which they produced and sold. For many of the streets today, there are in-fact more than 70 streets that snake together to form this densely populated area. For many of the streets today, the names are all that is left to remind us of their history. Rarely do the names correlate with what is actually sold there. Often it feels like an impossible maze to navigate if you are looking to buy something with any kind of efficiency. In the following list, we give you a breakdown of, and an occasional new name for, some of the streets to make shopping and wandering a bit more accessible. By Douglas Pyper, Kaitlin Rees, Hai Vu and Fabiola Buchele February 2013 Word | 35
THUOC BAC
HANG DAO
HANG QUAT
Historically this was a place where fan vendors tried to keep Hanoi cool in the summer. Today, for those looking for some sparkle and shine, a walk down ‘Glowing Street’ will not disappoint. As a place for families to maintain beautiful ancestral shrines, the street boasts golden Buddhas, jewels, candles and other attractive offerings.
“Though its official name translates to ‘Joss Paper Street’, more descriptive modern day names might be ‘Showy Appearances Street’ or ‘Marriage Invitations and Paper Lanterns Street’ or ‘Perhaps the Only Street Where You Can Buy Large Styrofoam Boxes Street’. You get the idea” 36 | Word February 2013
For centuries the Vietnamese have been renowned for their silk work. And this tradition culminates on this street, which now specializes in ready-made clothes. One of the very first streets in the Old Quarter, Hang Dao, which translates as ‘Peach Street’, serves as a main artery running from north to south.
HANG BO
Hang Bo starts at the intersection of Hang Dao and Hang Bac. The street is lined with haberdashery merchants selling their beads, buttons and zippers. By nightfall the street undergoes a metamorphosis; storefronts are cleared and bamboo mats are strewn on the pavement. It is then that ‘Dried Squid Street’ emerges as a place for you to sit on the sidewalk and enjoy some grilled cuttlefish (muc nuong) and Bia Hanoi.
As you walk north, the metal objects of Hang Thiec start to turn into safes, pots, and mirrors, and eventually transition into this street translating to ‘Northern Medicine Street’ though assuredly it is still the place to find small and medium-sized metal objects.
HANG VAI / HANG GA
Where ‘Fabric Street’ and ‘Chicken Street’ meet is on ‘Bamboo Corner’, and this intersection is truly one of a kind. A nostalgic trip into the past, it is reminiscent of a quieter, simpler and more peaceful Vietnam where everything was built out of bamboo.
PHO YEN THAI
Sat in the shadow of Hang Da Market, it is easy to miss ‘Enigmatic Alleyway’. But the modesty and mystery of the street makes it a favourite.
HANG THIEC
Historically named ‘Tin Street’, Hang Thiec is also affectionately called ‘Small and Medium Sized Metal Objects Street’. It makes the sensory experience of other nearby streets feel like a snooze fest. Near its south end, you can find screws, screwdrivers, locks, nails, hammers, keys, nuts, bolts, doorknobs, and all the accompanying banging and clanking.
LAN ONG
‘Traditional Medicine Street’ is good for the body and a favourite for the nose. Earthy aromas fill the street that offers teas, roots, herbs and dried fruits as cures for everything that could possibly be wrong with you. Here you can also find a plethora of towels and bathrobes.
DINH LIET
During the winter months Hanoi gets cold yet remains humid. And no matter what you do, the wet air manages to penetrate your bones. That is why this street is a saviour. ‘All Things Woven and Knitted Street’ is the go to spot for your sweaters, scarves, hats and gloves.
HANG DUONG
Famous for selling Vietnamese dried prune candies called o mai, ‘Sugar Street’ maintains its original purpose in vending sweets. The street leads to Hanoi’s largest indoor market, Cho Dong Xuan. On the weekends the entire street closes down traffic and changes into a night market spanning four blocks. Be warned, though, even though the roads may have closed, there always seems to be a motorbike or two that manages to sneak by.
HANG MA
Though its official name translates to ‘Joss Paper Street’, more descriptive modern day names might be ‘Showy Appearances Street’ or ‘Marriage Invitations and Paper Lanterns Street’ or ‘Perhaps the Only Street Where You Can Buy Large Styrofoam Boxes Street’. You get the idea.
CHA CA
Once famous for its signature fish dish, Cha Ca now might be more accurately called ‘Large Rolls of Paper Street’. With only one or two remaining food spots where you can find cha ca, it is now a great place to purchase paper for all purposes. Stuffed anivmals and power rangers toys are also prevalent.
CHO DONG XUAN
At 600sqm, this is the oldest and largest indoor market in Hanoi. Selling everything from textiles and linens to household goods and souvenirs, this is a definite go to destination for tourists looking to see the hustle and bustle of Vietnamese life. Be sure to bargain here for the best deal, and be prepared to walk away, because someone further down the market will also be selling the same thing.
HANG BAC
Translated as ‘Silver Street’, Hang Bac is one of the oldest and most popular streets in the Old Quarter. Once housing the silversmith guild, this street is now home to jewellery shops selling gold, silver and various gemstones.
HANG BUOM
A perfect, if slightly crowded street to visit before any dinner party where you are responsible for bringing dessert or drinks or both, this is ‘Candy and Alcohol Street’. Towards the end of the street are some old-time coffee houses. The name translates as ‘Sail Street’, which you could stretch to interpret the feeling of a sugar or caffeine induced high or perhaps some unsteadiness created by imbibing too much alcohol.
GIA NGU
‘Leggings Street’ is the adorable and so very practical alleyway that is also the place to find your pants and brassieres. A walk through lights the imagination as a source of creative fashion inspiration.
HANG MAM
Nuoc mam or fish sauce may be a staple in any Vietnamese diet, but this street no longer sells the fragrant sauce. Hang Mam now specialises in the manufacturing of tombstones and coffins. ‘Coffin Street’ may be a sombre sight, but it’s also picturesque in the way these memorial etchings are displayed.
HA TRUNG
‘Pimp My Ride Street’ offers upholstery services for you to jazz up your motorbike seat and also find purses, belts and a fantastic pair of denim cut offs that have been hanging from a wire for at least two years. Ha Trung also hosts a strip of jewellery shops and is a convenient stop when the banks are closed.
HANG DAU
A street that once housed oil merchants, it is now a one-stop destination for all things shoes. ‘Shoe Street’, it’s a necessary place to visit before embarking on your long trek through Sapa’s rolling countryside. Or perhaps a visit is in order afterwards to repair the damage caused.
HANG BE / GIA NGU
NHA CHUNG
Literally translates to mean ‘Together House’, so what better place to locate Hanoi’s largest church, nha tho lon? With its neo-gothic architecture, walking inside the cathedral is like teleporting back to 1886 France while outside the church may be the only safe haven for breathing room in all of the Old Quarter. Lining the sides of the church are several cafes and lemon-tea shops.
LUONG VAN CAN
As ‘All Day Play Street’, Luong Van Can sells an assortment of games, toys and stuffed animals that will satisfy your little kid cravings. At night the street hosts several bia hoi, all offering a slightly different kind of play.
After the Hang Be ‘Raft Street’ market closed in 2010, the duty of selling fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and various dried goods fell upon these two intersecting streets. Here, shopkeepers sell their choice cuts of meat while they lay strewn blistering in the hot Vietnam sun. Sanitary or not, it is best to come early to see the street at its busiest, as well as the best time to vie for the freshest produce.
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Overcrowded, in disrepair, blocked by traffic and yet the heart of the tourist industry, what does the future hold for Hanoi’s historical centre?
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n a lot of ways, the Old Quarter doesn’t work. It’s far and away the city’s most densely populated area with anywhere between 850 and 1,500 people per hectare. Way above the 300 people per hectare level considered to be acceptable. This issue alone brings with it monumental headaches of traffic, parking, public services and sanitation, but that’s only the beginning of the Old Quarter’s issues. As the centre of northern Vietnam’s tourism industry and the historical heart of Hanoi, the area is further over-populated by two million visitors per year. This is complicated by the need to protect its historically important structures. Covering an area of around 100 hectares, the Old Quarter presently hosts over 1,000 historical buildings.
The Makeover In December 2012, the Municipal Department of Planning and Architecture set about laying plans to replace existing legislature for the development of the area set out way back in 1995. Plans include raising the maximum building height above the present 12 meters; reducing the core area of the Old Quarter down to 23 hectares; reducing population density by moving residents to the new area of Viet Hung in Gia Lam; renovating certain areas in the style of the recent make-over on Ta Hien; and paving the way for pedestrian streets by building parking areas in Phuc Xa, Chuong Duong and Ly Nam De. Ngo Trung Hai, a city planner with the Vietnam Institute of Architecture and Urban Planning (VIAP), has been involved in planning the future of the Old Quarter since way back in 1992. At that time, plans were drawn up for the creation of pedestrianised areas that would allow tourism services to develop without hampering the practical everyday life of the residents, while also allowing for economic development in the area. Evidently, these things don’t happen
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quickly. The project was finally approved in 2005 and the quest to find funding began. Since then, there’s been more talk than action. With many of the issues on the table, we set out to ask residents, business owners and visitors to the Old Quarter, what they thought of the urban planners’ best laid plans.
QUESTION 1: DO PEOPLE WANT PEDESTRIAN ONLY AREAS IN THE OLD QUARTER? WHY OR WHY NOT? NHU THUY, 56 Business owner and resident of Hang Quat I’D REALLY LIKE everyone to walk within the Old Quarter, as it’s just far too densely populated within the district. Automobile traffic only worsens the already messy and irritating overcrowding. Even without the cars, it’s already far too chaotic. Residents are constantly vying for space. Conducting business is a major hassle. QUYNH CHI, 24 Boutique manager and resident of Au Trieu Making the Old Quarter pedestrian-only would be a great idea, but I don’t really find it feasible, since the Old Quarter is still a business district. If we choose to prohibit the main means of transport within the area it’ll needlessly inconvenience both businesses and residents who earn their money and live within the district. HOAI NGA, 30 Former Old Quarter resident Yes, because the Old Quarter is far too small to accommodate motorised traffic. Besides, there are many historical sites, sightseeing destinations and businesses within the Old Quarter that are ideal for walking. The nature of walking would encourage and likely stimulate interest in the historical sites and business patronage. Tourist and frequent shoppers of Old Quarter businesses will
certainly find it safer with a pedestrian-only ordinance. ETHAN TRAN, 33 Canadian expat and current resident on Nguyen Van To YEAH, I DO believe the majority of people would like a pedestrian only area since it’ll make it safer to travel. The Old Quarter is not that big of an area, so walking wouldn’t really be an inconvenience. CUC, 30 Business owner and resident of Ly Quoc Su YES, BUT IT will take some time to determine how and when to implement this change, and there also needs to be a sanctioned place to put the motorbikes and cars that is sensible.
QUESTION 2: WHAT IS MORE IMPORTANT WITHIN THE OLD QUARTER — PRESERVING HISTORY OR PROMOTING COMMERCE? ETHAN: I feel that promoting successful businesses is more important, but in doing so, every effort to preserve history should be taken at the same time. HOAI NGA: Definitely the history. CUC: A combination of both. Preserving the purity of our history and promoting business is the only answer. QUYNH CHI: Of course, preserving history is more important. NHU THUY: In my opinion, we need to preserve history by upgrading and renovating the pre-existing homes we already have, not by building from scratch.
QUESTION 3: SHOULD HOUSES WITHIN THE OLD QUARTER BE LIMITED TO A MAXIMUM
8501,500 people per hectare.
HEIGHT OF TWO OR THREE STOREYS? CUC: Yes. High buildings ruin the charm of the Old Quarter. QUYNH CHI: Yes. When we limit the height of the buildings, the Old Quarter will feel more spacious, the visual landscape will inevitably be more beautiful, which will certainly help the economy by increasing tourism. NHU THUY: No, we shouldn’t limit the height of the buildings. For me, we should build up to about a minimum of six or seven floors to increase the size of homes and buildings on the interior without any needless waste of land. The space within the Old Quarter is extremely limited and crowding is a genuine problem in my eyes. HOAI NGA: Yes, we should, since it’s the only area in Hanoi with its own architectural style, and it’s hard to appreciate it if we have disproportionately higher buildings obstructing the views. ETHAN: I think homes could and should be higher than two floors, but it should be nothing taller than eight. We should keep the skyline clean in the Old Quarter.
QUESTION 4: WOULD YOU BE WILLING TO RELOCATE TO GIA LAM (VIET HUNG) TO REDUCE THE POPULATION WITHIN THE OLD QUARTER? WHY OR WHY NOT? QUYNH CHI: I wouldn’t want to move, and I think Vietnamese people in general prefer to live near their family and relatives. The reality is that most of the families live on the other side of the river, within the city. If anything, if I had to move, I’d only move if it were somewhere far closer than Gia Lam. CUC: Yes, I’d move. It’d have to be to a place
1,000 historical buildings
1,00 hectares
“‘Making the Old Quarter pedestrian-only would be a great idea, but I don’t really find it feasible, since the Old Quarter is still a business district’” that’s near schools, hospitals, with reliable electricity and power, and big roads for the kids to play in. If so, then yes. NHU THUY: In my opinion, it should be determined on an individual basis. If there are lots of families residing within one house, then I think they should move. Yet if it’s one family per house, I think they should be able to stay put. ETHAN: Well, I’m moving soon anyway. It’s just too loud here.
QUESTION 5: ARE YOU INTERESTED IN RENOVATING/REBUILDING YOUR HOUSE? IS THERE ANYTHING PREVENTING YOU FROM DOING SO IF YOU ACTUALLY WANTED TO UPGRADE? QUYNH CHI: I live in a very old house in the Old Quarter, which means I’m sharing a lot of the facilities within the house. If I wanted to improve the house, then it’d involve getting everyone I shared with in the housing unit to agree, which would be a very time consuming undertaking. CUC: Unless the house is in really poor shape or unsafe, I wouldn’t bother with renovations, since it’s really expensive. Another difficulty is having to ask permission from the proper authorities for the proper permits before construction, and that could take some time. NHU THUY: I’d really love to rebuild my house for all of the usual reasons a person
wants to upgrade the home in which they live, but it’s difficult to get the permission it takes rebuild a house. Plus, of course, the money it takes to do so is always an issue.
QUESTION 6: WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING THAT SHOULD BE DEVELOPED OR IMPROVED IN THE OLD QUARTER (IF ANYTHING AT ALL)? CUC: If people are going to rebuild property with the Old Quarter, the soul and spirit of the Old Quarter, what makes it unique, should be priority number one. But modernity is inescapable and it’s just not possible to keep everything as it was in the past. We shouldn’t change the structure of the traditional buildings, but only make them newer while adhering to their traditional aesthetic. As time goes on, we always lose a lot of our traditional culture and tradition, so if we should decide to rebuild anything in the Old Quarter, we should try our best to rebuild it the way it had originally looked. NHU THUY: If we want to rebuild old houses, there should be a code and architectural style that people have to follow. The old houses now are old and shabby and aren’t looking too good, so if we want to preserve the traditional style, the government and the people have to work together too. ETHAN: I think better streets and public transportation within the Old Quarter should be the most important. With better public transportation, people would be less inclined to take their private vehicles to the area.
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Having found photographs of Hanoi taken during the period of French colonisation (1860 to 1940), Fabiola Buchele and Francis Roux set out to recreate the images and discover what is left of times long gone
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here is not one day in the life of this city when its appearance is a blueprint of the day before. Constant construction and renovation, cafes turning into shoe shops and the opening of one business, the closing of another. Hanoi has changed significantly over time into the city it is today. Or rather, it is for now. Few caught up in the constant river of motorbikes can imagine a tramline rolling through Vietnam’s capital or a time when the city was ruled by bicycles. Yet it was so until the early 1990s. The predecessors of the cyclos peddling tourists through the Old Quarter today were as prominent during the French colonial era, when the original pictures on these pages were taken, as they are today. The hand pulled carts have simply changed into bicycles. Some things endure. And that is perhaps the most striking aspect of comparing then and now, and even imagining what will be. The Turtle Pagoda, the Opera House, The Metropole Hotel and Dong Xuan Market have all survived history and still serve as the landmarks they were decades ago. Just imagine if their facades could speak, the stories they could tell. They would tell you about periods of grandeur and hardship, bomb threats and the arrival of peace, the constantly growing tide of traffic and with it the increasing challenge of crossing the road. Hanoi will continue to change its look and feel, put on new makeup and morph into all sorts of shapes and appearances we cannot yet imagine. Like every other city on earth, its development will never be complete, but many things will remain. It is these buildings and landmarks that will connect those who, through the years, call this city home.
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“Hanoi will continue to change its look and feel, put on new makeup and morph into all sorts of shapes and appearances we cannot yet imagine�
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“Few caught up in the constant river of motorbikes can imagine a tramline rolling through Vietnam’s capital or a time when the city was ruled by bicycles. Yet it was so until the early 1990s”
“The Turtle Pagoda, the Opera House, The Metropole Hotel and Dong Xuan Market have all survived history and still serve as the landmarks they were decades ago. Just imagine if their facades could speak, the stories they could tell” 42 | Word February 2013
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As a new resident of Hanoi, Fabiola Buchele is curious about what life is like for those passing through. Photo by Francis Roux
In Plain Clothes STREET FOOD? Tran Quoc Toan has great Hu Tiu, Bun Bo, Bun Ca. There’s bun cha on 36 Le Van Huu and then Pho, everywhere. There are famous places, but also just everywhere, you’ll find one you love. Don’t forget the grilled seafood on Tong Duy Ton. RESTAURANTS? Vietnamese restaurants: Madame Hien, Quan An Ngon, Le Club de le Oriental, Pots and Pans. Chim Sau, 1946, Cua Hang An Uong Mau Dich 37, Net Hue, and the Hanoi Cooking Centre are all good bets. MUSIC OR ENTERTAINMENT? The places with the most regular live music are ATK, Hanoi Rock City, and Madake. DURING THE DAY? Go to Middlewarp under the Long Bien Bridge, of just walk across the bridge. It’s amazing how far away and close the busy city is down there. The Goethe Institut, Japan Foundation, LeSpace, Manzi, Tadioto, and Suzanne
Lecht’s house all usually have art exhibitions. For something different, you can go to the pool at Thang Loi and hit golf balls. PICTURESQUE HANOI? The long boulevards on the military complex with all the trees are lovely. The rooftops around West Lake have nice views. There are plenty of little alleys in the Old Quarter. Ta Hien, now that they made it look like Hoi An is pretty picturesque. SHOP? You can go to the fabric market at Cho Hom off of Pho Hue to get clothes tailored. Also Song, and Kilomet 109 for clothes, 54 Traditions for artifacts, prints, textiles, Manzi for art, Bookworm for books, Module 7 for furniture. CAFES AND BARS? Besides the street sitting spots, Tadioto, ATK, Cong Caphe, Manzi, Hanoi Social Club, Commune, Hanoi Bicycle Collective, and Madake are all personal favourites.
“To keep my cover, I came up with lots of ‘been there done that’ anecdotes and, more importantly, hoped no one would find out that my backpack was stuffed with a pillow from my very own bed located a ten-minute walk away” 44 | Word February 2013
H
ippie trousers and neon-coloured tank tops have become as essential a part of the Old Quarter as the faded French architecture peeking out from behind neon signs. Last year Vietnam welcomed almost 7 million international visitors. How many of those were young travellers on their gap year stumbling through the 36 streets of the Old Quarter is anyone’s guess. Whatever the number, those living in the city may ponder just how different the experience of this city is for those passing through. And that pondering quickly may lead to the decision to infiltrate their hostels and see just what it is the backpackers are up to. Exchanging my usual clothes for the most backpackery outfit my wardrobe has on offer, I set off in hiking boots, my hair in a top bun,
a wind cheater and a Thai scarf for good measure. To keep my cover, I come up with lots of ‘been there done that’ anecdotes and more importantly hope no one finds out that my backpack is stuffed with a pillow from my very own bed located a ten-minute walk away. The offers from cyclo drivers and ladies edging to pose for a picture with their load of pineapples become distinctly more frequent as I near the hostel and try to blend in with a caravan of travellers just of a bus. Going for the full experience of a limited budget, I opt for a bed in the mixed dorm and ask the very helpful and friendly staff where to best get some grub. What follows is a list of recommendations I received while in my backpacker garb, and the parallel list I got my plain clothes.
The Backpacker Trail STREET FOOD? With a list of local foods and their English translation provided by the hostel, it is each backpacker to their own. Match the signs to what takes your fancy and do not be afraid. Ah and turn left for fried rice. Bon appetite. RESTAURANTS? Newday seems to be what the hostels and the travel bible that is the Lonley Planet seem to agree on. Full of tourist looking for the capital’s famed cuisine, it unfortunately does not do the flavours of Vietnam proud. MUSIC OR ENTERTAINMENT? Stay put for fun and games at the hostels themselves. With weekly schedules including pub qiuzes, toss the boss (staying on the wrong day of the week, this fake traveler is not sure just what to make of that). Plasma screens in the common area are simply called cinema, though for a less touristy option the Cineplexx at the Vincom Towers is recommended for a winter friendly quiet night. As for music, Hanoi Rock City is the club mentioned. Conveniently their fliers have found their way to the reception luring travelers out of the old quarter to West Lake. DURING THE DAY? If you manage to get yourself to the reception by 9.30 (not hard when the snorers amongst the dorm kipping travelers keep you up all night) you can join an Old Quarter walking tour with a free guide. For convenience there is also a suggested tour on the hostel map you can do on
your own. Then I’m told to join a Vietnamese cooking class to ensure you can replicate the tasty dishes encountered on your trip. I’m to make sure and pay Uncle Ho a visit and while outside the Old Quarter, tick the Temple of Literature and Hanoi prison off my list. PICTURESQUE HANOI? Due to the above mentioned snorer getting me out of bed earlier than I would have liked, I’m directed to Hoan Kiem Lake to experience the city’s residents waking up. Some stretches with the ladies exercising is hard to resist, as is simply enjoying the beauty of the lake without the hassle and bustle that ensues once scooters hit the road. I’m also instructed to climb up any of the rooftop cafes around Hoan Kiem and enjoy the view from above. St. Joseph’s Cathedral is another recommendation for a unique piece of historical architecture. SHOP? Dong Xuan market and every shop I stumble across on my way there. This is of course assuming that as a tourist, my basic needs are fulfilled with chopsticks, tacky Buddha statues and North Fake gear. CAFES AND BARS? I’m directed to an egg coffee at the Hidden Café, enjoy the view of the lake. Or if my wallet allows, to opt for an even more spectacular view from The Rooftop. When the sun goes down, I instead grab a free plastic stool at a bia hoi corner and watch Hanoi life pass by.
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V u n g T a u 46 | Word February 2013
DESTINATION
Though a short boat ride from Saigon, Vung Tau has long been relegated to low down on the list of local getaways. Nick Ross thinks otherwise
February 2013 Word | 47
F
or years I disliked Vung Tau. I'm not alone. The beaches are unshaded and uncared for, the sea is dirty and there is a seedy element to the nightlife. Yet this has become a stereotype, a stereotype that should be ignored. The reason for my bias was down to experience. I used to live and work there. I spent some of the best moments of my life in this seaside city doubling up as Vietnam’s oil town. I also spent some of the worst, and when I finally left in 2007 I swore I would never return. Except for two weddings and family ties that occasionally saw me make the two-hour trip from Saigon out of necessity, for a long time I kept my distance. Recent events have changed my mind and rid me of my baggage. It started with a photographer showing me his blog. Together with his son he had taken the cable car to the theme park at the top of the mountain. When I had lived in Vung Tau the cable car was one of those projects that seemed to
Bars The only beachside watering hole in Back Beach is the bamboo Vung Tau Beach Club (on Thuy Van in Ocean Park opposite Sammy Hotel). In Front Beach, a number of the city’s bars take advantage of their customers. The following watering holes in Front Beach are deemed by locals not to “rip off” their clients. Corner Bar
•26 Quang Trung Party Bar
•2 Hoang Dieu VFB
•Rex Hotel, 1 Le Quy Don MK Bar
•First Floor, 4 Nguyen Trai Enigma
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be on permanent hold, a bit like some of the resort projects out at Ho Tram. And yet here it was, completed. The images showed a saturated, azure blue sky, a dark green pine forest and a vista of the city that was different to that of my memories. I determined that at some point I would take a look. So the next time I returned
these places existed, but in my six years in the city I had never made the effort.
Long Son My latest journey coincided with bad weather. In December and January Ho Chi Minh City can develop a night-time chill. The Vung Tau peninsula went one step further — it was genuinely
two new bridges connect these islands to the mainland. Besides floating seafood farms, mangrove — some destroyed and some not — a lake, the viewless mountain retreat of Du Son and the tiny fishing port at Ben Da, the main attraction in Long Son is an old house, known quite simply as Nha Lon (Big House). The home to followers of the
“‘Seven or eight years ago Vung Tau was appealing for investment in tourism… So, I got in touch with the local authorities to see if I could bring my weapon collection to Vietnam’” I borrowed a bike, left my not so comfortable comfort zone and went for a drive. I hit the numerous temple and junglelined mountain roads that skirt the city’s two most notable landmarks — Nui Nho and Nui Lon, Small Mountain and Big Mountain. I went to the church in Sao Mai village and the fishing port in Ben Dinh. I also visited the arms museum. I was enthralled. I had known that
cold. Yet the air was fresh — already a welcome change from the big city. Borrowing a motorbike I headed out to Go Gang and Long Son Islands. Although part of the city of Vung Tau, until recently road access required a 30km drive back down the highway before travelling the road over the mangroves to Long Son. Go Gang was even more remote and only accessible by boat. Now,
Ong Tran religion — all the people working and living here wear black traditional ao ba ba — the colourful, wooden-framed building is over 100 years old and is a reminder of how houses built by the wealthy once used to look. In modern Vietnam, such sites are a rarity. From the artwork-laden altar room and brightly-coloured courtyard through to the attic space above with views across
What to Do the complex, this beautifullypreserved shrine to the past is a must for anyone visiting Vung Tau. Even the market next door, with its Long Son-made seafood products and restored, dark wooden shop-fronts is worth a wander. If you like your homemade fermented sauces — chao, mam tom, mam ruoc — this is a place to stock up.
Changing Times Back in Vung Tau I headed out to Tommy’s 3 in Front Beach, Bai Truoc. Run by husband-and-wife team Glenn and Trang, they have created a successful business out of doing what most of the other mixed expat-Vietnamese run spots refused to do — not be a hostess bar. Instead they are a well-run, well-oiled restaurant and sports bar with live music on Friday and Saturday nights. They have also bridged the barrier between foreigners and Vietnamese — their customers are an international mix of both. “Vung Tau is really starting to modernize,” says Glenn. “The buildings aren’t trashy little shacks any more. There’s new
GREYHOUND RACING stuff sprouting up everywhere. Aesthetically the people here are rebuilding the town… It’s starting to look very clean, very tidy.” He’s not wrong. The city formerly known as Cap Saint Jacques is still a sleepy enclave looking out towards the Pacific, but the past decade has seen multiple transformations. Front Beach has been overhauled and turned into a seaside promenade with sea-themed Barbara Hepworth-style sculptures and a shaded park. Back Beach has also been developed as has the area around Chi Linh, the beach at the end of Paradise Golf Course. High-rises now dot the skyline and more are on their way. And the roads are wide, well-paved and clean. New highways with flower-clad central reservations have been built, Metro Hypermarket has arrived, and the city’s residents have the option of the ‘dream modern lifestyle’, living in apartments like their counterparts in Saigon or Hanoi. The differences are not just
The stadium at 15 Le Loi in Front Beach opens every Saturday at 7.15pm for 10 dog races. Gambling is legal and punters can choose from either the air-con VIP rooms or the outdoor stands. Entrance starts at VND50,000
THE SKY PARK
For VND200,000 you can take the cable car from Tran Phu in Front Beach up to the top of Big Mountain and visit a range of themed attractions — including a lake, a waterfall, a pine tree forest, a small zoo and a range of cafes and restaurants
PARADISE GOLF CLUB
Presently the city’s only golf course. Also home to Paradise World. Go to www.golfparadise. com.vn for information
THE SURF CLUB
Kitesurfing and windsurfing out in this Russian-run club in Back Beach. Go to www.vungtausurf. com and www.vnkite.com for information
THE STATUE OF JESUS
The second-largest Jesus statue in the world. Steps from in between Back Beach and Banana Beach lead up to the 36-metre high monument to Catholicism in Vung Tau
THE FORTS
Take Hem 444 on Tran Phu or Hem 220 on Phan Chu Trinh to head to two of the remaining French-built forts on the mountains
THE PAGODAS
Vung Tau has many including one on an island only accessible when the tide is out. The best known is Thich Ca Phat Dai at 608 Tran Phu, Ward 5
MOTORBIKE TOURS
A mine of information on the area, Australian Kevin Collins runs motorbike tours not just around the city but as far afield as Central Vietnam. He has a range of bikes available including manual Honda WH150s and can also organise trips by car. Call 0909 240389 or go to www.wing-itvietnam.com.
SAO MAI CHURCH
Located in between Bai Dau and Ben Dinh on the edge of Big Mountain, this church was built by the large local Christian community who moved to the area in 1954
LONG SON ISLAND
Known locally as Oyster Island, this little enclave 30 minutes from Vung Tau can be explored both by bike or by hiring a fishing boat — expect to pay VND200,000 to VND300,000 per hour. Famed for its big house, Nha Lon, and its seafood products including oysters
THE BEACHES
There are three main beaches in Vung Tau — Front Beach, Back Beach and Chi Linh. Head out to Chi Linh and the sand seems to stretch almost indefinitely, making parts of this area the perfect place for some isolated beach if you want to avoid the crowds
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“All around were the remains of brick walls, overgrown with tree roots like Ta Prohm Temple in Angkor Wat. Yet here the handiwork was French rather than Khmer” structural — the city now offers up a myriad of activities for tourists. The cable car transports hundreds of people a day from its seaside base on Tran Phu to a Sky Park on the top of Big Mountain. I visited Front Beach twice. Once a rat-infested stretch of sand doubling up as a sewer, it is now surprisingly clean. Even the sea looks swimmable. Glenn, though, was particularly enthused by the restoration of an old French fort out on Big Mountain. “They’ve
Restaurants GANH HAO
3 Tran Phu, Bai Dau The best-known, top-end seafood restaurant in town. Great views over the sea, but pricey
THANH PHAT
334 Tran Phu, Sao Mai Said to be the best of the local, cheaper seafood restaurants. Close to the main fishing port
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Heading round Big Mountain, through another area that has been developed — much of the road here was once gravel and
mud — we took Hem 444 off Tran Phu and headed upwards. The fort itself is a restoration of the original French base, with a line of green-coated cannon looking ominously out to sea and a range of now empty, stone-built fortifications that once housed a garrison. Built as early as 1870, it is a wonder that the artillery was not dismantled for scrap metal. Despite the bad access it is also a wonder that no-one comes up here. In the 45 minutes or so we spent looking around, we were
the only visitors. “There are more,” says Glenn. “These are the only cannon that have been restored.” So we went off back into town — this time up Vi Ba, a street close to the intersection of Le Loi and Le Hong Phong. 2.5km up the hill we came across the remains of another fort, this time buried by jungle. The cannon and other machinery had long been dismantled, but the fixings were still there. Now part of a family home one of the garrison rooms
DAVID
RESTAURANT 9
DIGGERS REST
done all the work, but it’s impossible to get a car up there,” he explains. “The road hasn’t been widened yet and it’s often used for drying seafood.” All meaning that the fort remained one of the city’s little secrets. The next day, we went for a look.
The Forts
92 Ha Long, Ward 2 Well-loved Italian restaurant with full menu, seafront views and a woodfired pizza oven
BANH KHOT
Vung Tau’s only speciality dish can be found all around town, but the best is available at Ba Hai (42 Tran Dong, Ward 2 ) although the most famous is found at Goc Vu Sua (14 Nguyen Truong To, Ward 2 )
9 Truong Vinh Ky, Front Beach French-run bistro specializing in tasty Mediterranean cuisine mixed with international fare. Great carpaccios and pizzas
TOMMY’S 3
3 Le Ngoc Han, Front Beach Mixed Asian and western menu selling anything from comfort food to salads and classics in a large, open-air space. Upstairs air-con sports bar
3 Ba Cu, Front Beach Outdoor, umbrella-covered restaurant and cafe just off the main drag in Front Beach. Same owners as Tommy’s 3
The Arms Museum
had been transformed into an outhouse for keeping pigs. But this was only the starting point. The real gem is the fort and semi-ruined French-built outhouse on Small Mountain. The road out there — Hem 220 off Phan Chu Trinh — is in disrepair, but the ride up the mountain with the sweeping city views to accompany was more than reward for the bumpy trip. After numerous bends and turns we took a right-hand fork and here were the first battlements. Semi-restored — work has obviously been done on the cannon at some point — all around were the remains of brick walls, overgrown with tree roots like Ta Prohm Temple in Angkor Wat. Yet here the handiwork was French rather than Khmer. Heading further up the track we came to the bottom of the Jesus Statue — known locally as Chua Kito. Yet here we were at the steps that were built when the monolith was originally constructed in 1974. Now unused, at their base lies a semireconstructed torpedo cannon — the largest beast of the lot with a chase perhaps one-and-a-half times the length of its compadre. A bit further up the track rounded back on itself coming to the base of the statue used today. Visitors climb hundreds of steps
to get this high. We had done the trip by bike. That night back in Tommy’s 3 the question got thrown up again and again. “I just don’t understand why the authorities don’t promote this place more,” said Glenn. We came up with a few theories. But what was clear was this. While Vung Tau remains badly promoted and many tourist sites a mystery, you couldn’t ask for a more perfect time to explore this beachside getaway, far from the madding crowd.
“Seven or eight years ago Vung Tau was appealing for investment in tourism,” says Bob Taylor, a local resident who for the last 23 years has made Vietnam his home. A collector of swords, guns and army uniforms, and with a collection that he describes as a “hobby that had gone out of control”, he felt he now had something that he needed to share. “So, I got in touch with the local authorities to see if I could bring my weapon collection to Vietnam,” he continues. “I live in Vung Tau, which is why I brought everything there. And it’s actually in my home which I modified into a museum.” Opening in January 2012 on Bach Dang at the base of Nui Nho, by the end of the year the attraction was receiving 200 visitors a day at the weekend and 50 visitors a day during the week. “People from around the world — foreigners — said it was one of the best museums they’d ever seen,” says Bob. “And the Vietnamese were overawed by it. It’s unique.” But Bob’s passion is not just reserved for arms. Attached to the back of the museum is a primate care centre housing gibbons and monkeys “rescued from cruel situations.” Working together with Monkey World in the UK, a chimpanzee rescue centre based in Dorset, and the Endangered Asian Species Trust (EAST) in Cat Tien National Park, Bob also takes
on the role of carer, looking after rescued primates from EAST that cannot be rehabilitated into the natural environment. “Many of the rescued animals have deformities, disease or psychological problems,” explains Bob. “So, it’s just not ethical if we send them back into the wild.”
The museum is located at 14 Hai Dang but is presently closed for public viewing while Bob applies for a new license. Both the facility and the primate care centre should be open again around Tet. For further information email Bob Taylor at roberttaylorvic@ gmail.com.
Getting There Four companies now run hydrofoils to and from Vung Tau with the boats leaving every half an hour. Go to the ferry port on Ton Duc Thang opposite the end of Nguyen Hue for information. Tickets for the one-and-a-half-hour boat ride are VND200,000 (week days) and VND250,000 (weekends). Hoa Mai runs an efficient and fast bus service from 44 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1. The journey takes twoand-a-half hours and costs VND85,000. Call 3821 8927 for information.
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SOCIETY
WOMAN Women as the portals of change: a look at female traffic control and a study of sustainable maternal nutrition. Words by Kaitlin Rees PART 1 Women direct traffic, breaking news
L
e gingerly steps down from the podium at the Dien Bien Phu and Tran Phu intersection, taking the elbow of an elderly woman hesitating on the edge of a flurry of morning traffic. The two women, separated in age by probably 60 years, cross the street together while the body of motorbikes revs from behind a perfectly straight frontline. The hundred or so eyes sandwiched between helmet and mask watch as the 21-yearold Le resumes her post as the new softer face of rush hour. Alongside this mushy, heartmicrowaved opening vignette, should be nothing short of an incredible reason why someone directing traffic makes any kind of newsworthy story. And so, the incredible reason: women have been recently promoted to the podium. This month, the official call to “create beauty and make people more comfortable” through the use of females at key intersections sparked the attention of several media outlets, including as it turns out, this one. With hopes of employing
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women to be “beautiful images” in rain or shine, sights are set high for women’s contribution to this serious issue. “In Vietnam we fight our enemies with very simple tactics,” Toan, the chief whistler of the morning states. Toan towers above his female counterpart and looks to be about twenty years older. “People feel more embarrassed if a woman reminds them that they are not following the rule; there is more shame in being corrected by a woman officer. Everyone is used to the male officers so they have stopped caring. Female officers are something new, so people take note” And take note they certainly do, with multiple heads doing a double take as their bikes creep slowly forward through the dense intersection. Because the traffic is moving slow, Toan says, it’s not so dangerous for drivers to stare. “At first I was a bit shy with people looking at me, but now I’m used to it so it feels normal.” When asked about
her contribution to the beauty and comfort of drivers, Le’s response touches on the heart of the matter: “Girls are like flowers, of course they make the streets more beautiful.” It would be easy to say that even in the progress toward more equal responsibilities in the workforce, women are still reduced to their pretty faces. It would be easy to point and say there it is, there’s the glass wall against which all those pretty faces continue to smack. And if this were a different publication, perhaps that kind of thing would be said. But here let’s spit out the bitter pill of correctness to simply ponder the flowers. As each interviewed officer agreed, drivers do in fact more closely adhere to traffic laws in the presence of female beauty. The implications are great. Perhaps instead of monetary fines, officers will one day instead impose bouquets of orchids be carried as recompense for speeding. Perhaps daisies for the helmet law violators. Running a red light, roses. Let’s hope the creativity continues.
PART 2 Baby Mommas for a Taller Future
G
iang, 24-years-old and six months pregnant, sits down first. The food has been served but she’s waiting for her friend Tam, 21, and eight months pregnant, to arrive so they can start together. A few months ago, the women had never met. Now they share a daily meal as friends and together stifle groans every ten days when congealed blood is on the menu. Though the cubes of blood are the least favourite, like the variety of meat, fish, and vegetables that make up these added meals in between breakfast and lunch, it’s rich in protein and they absorb the importance of this over and over again. A few minutes late, Loan, 22 and not yet pregnant, rushes in from work at her family’s shop. She immediately sits down and opens her canister of morning glory, shrimp and pork. It is common knowledge that the consequences of a mother’s nutrition reach far beyond her own body. Me tron con vuong, the saying goes, literally translating to round mother square child. It’s an idiom that means to express that if a mother is healthy and
takes care of herself, her child will in turn be healthy, a complete shape all of it’s own. It’s an idiom that Tam uses when asked about the future of her unborn child. Tam, Giang and Loan are three of about 250 women in Phu Tho Province participating in a scientific investigation into the links between female nutrition and baby size. Dr Tu Ngu, one of Vietnam’s leading experts on nutrition who heads this operation, is not the first to suspect the connection between a mother’s diet and the strength and size of children. Several World Health Organization studies have already established ties through offering already pregnant women a pill of vitamins and nutrients, usually about 16 weeks into pregnancy. What makes the Phu Tho study unique is how early it starts, typically right after women register to be married and before they are pregnant; and the dietary supplement used, real food grown locally and thus much more sustainable than a pill provided by an outside organisation. Back in Hanoi, at the National
Institute of Nutrition, Dr Ngu and his assistant Ms Nga run a tight operation. There is neverending data to sort through. Upon completion of the study, over 500 mothers across 29 communes will have been served a specific set of daily meals, cooked and distributed by volunteers who will have overseen and recorded the exact measurement of the weight of food that each woman ate and didn’t eat. Blood drawings and monthly urine analysis will be tracked, as well as the heights and weights of the babies through infancy. The study, started in August of 2011, is the first of its kind that will create a direct connection between what many already take for granted. Why go through all the trouble of science, then, if the outcome seems so predictable? For the last three decades, Dr Ngu has worked in towns all over Vietnam’s countryside to improve the conditions of people living there, whether through agricultural techniques or offering direct medical treatment. Dr Ngu makes it very clear that “some people are in it for the
science, I’m in it for the people.” Despite all the work going into accurate measurements and record keeping, the more immediate effect of the study lies in the evident care given to the mothers. It is something visible to the eyes of the families and neighbours involved. Due to the grassroots nature of the study, individual connections matter intensely and will be the foundation for its success. Word spreads quickly, as with Giang, Tam and Loan, whose families at first didn’t understand why they had to leave for an hour in the middle of the morning to go eat a second breakfast. But after witnessing the dedication going into the project, and hearing explanations from the doctors and volunteers, the families now give their full support to the women. As a definition of sustainability, one major side effect of this study is community empowerment through nutrition practices. Because often the women are the ones growing and cooking the food for themselves, it is a means for women, and their bodies, to be the agents of change.
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DAY TRIPPER
Chua Thay Pagoda
N
ot so long ago I found myself in need of a day away from the noise and commotion of Hanoi. I asked around for recommendations for somewhere interesting to spend a few hours; a quiet place a bit off the beaten track. Talking to my Vietnamese friends it would seem that there are thousands of such destinations around Hanoi, each more unmissable than the last. After some deliberation, I settled on a trip to the 900-year-old Chua Thay Pagoda. Although well-known locally, it’s yet to be widely discovered by the country’s foreign population. I was told that the place was peaceful, historical and a little quirky — the perfect mix for a Vietnamese day trip. The drive to Chua Thay, a 30km or so motorbike ride down the dusty and bleak Thang Long highway, doesn’t offer a great incentive to make the trip, especially on a chilly Hanoi day (although an elusive but apparently existent bus is said to head in that direction from Kim Ma). The destination
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The home of Vietnamese water puppetry, Kim Megson makes the short trip to Chua Thay Pagoda, a 900-year-old shrine to the monk Tu Dao Hanh. Photos by Francis Roux ultimately rewards hardy travellers as it both lives up to its promise and still manages a surprise or two. Lying at the foot of Sai Son Mountain in Quoc Oai District, the surrounding scenery is reminiscent of Ninh Binh, with the same rocky and forested outcrops looming out of the misty haze. The surrounding town, on a sunny day, is what the term ‘picture
postcard’ was made for, but be warned — it looks a little less enchanting on an overcast afternoon.
Of Puppets and Kings Chua Thay comprises of three buildings located parallel to each other. The main pagoda is the biggest, and lies in front of a large and still lake, with the two smaller temples to either side. Water puppetry hails from this part of the country, and performances take place on the water here at certain times of the year. Houses with colourful front doors surround the lake, and alongside the ancient buildings they look like they belong in a film set — perhaps a Buddhist reimagining of Lord of the Rings. In summertime monks live and study in the pagoda, waking up daily at 4am to pray. In the winter it is often deserted, except during Tet, when people come to worship here and see the pagoda, which has long been the subject of art, song and traditional
“Houses with colourful front doors surround the lake, and alongside the ancient buildings they look like they belong in a film set — perhaps a Buddhist reimagining of Lord of the Rings.” legends. The figure behind all this is Tu Dao Hanh, a monk who lived in the area during the 11th Century. According to legend, Hanh was a humble and generous man who was very giving to the poor. He invented water puppetry to mark the lives of the rural population. Before his death he told the monks that he would die in the mountains and requested that if his remains begin to smell and decompose he should be left there, but if instead they should give off a nice aroma then his body should be taken to Chua Thay and be preserved — it is said that the remains of Hanh are still entombed in Chua Thay. He was later regarded as a saint, and Buddhists believe he was reincarnated first as a teacher and then later as a king from the Ly Dynasty (who repopularised puppetry to celebrate). Statues of the three incarnations can be seen in the pagoda. One reincarnation of a soul into another human body is very unusual in Buddhism, and two is remarkable. So this story is believed to
show just how saintly Hanh was; Chua Thay even goes by the name Thien Phuc Tu, or ‘Pagoda of the Heavenly Blessing’.
High Temple Having explored the pagoda at length with its imposing statues and shrines sat atop the usual offerings of choco pies and Vietnamese snacks, I ventured into the cold and braved a climb up the steep mountain steps to explore another temple higher up, sat above a huge cave. Aggressive roosters strutted along the rocks, their feathers flying around madly as they fought each other, occasionally tumbling into my path. Adventurous visitors should take a look inside the large cave, which is said to contain the bones of Vietnamese soldiers who fought in the American War. This should only be attempted on a dry day though, as access is via steep rocks which are treacherous after rain. Tours of the pagoda and mountain can be arranged in the town below, and will
provide a more thorough explanation of the pagoda’s unique history and importance. If you can speak some Vietnamese it is also interesting to stop and have a chat with the head monk, who is happy to share information about its history and the lives of Tu Dao Hanh. A visit to Chua Thay provides a refreshing escape from the bustle of Hanoi and helps broaden cultural horizons, too. It offers something memorable and a little different, and is guaranteed to inspire further day trips to some of Hanoi’s ‘thousands’ of lesser known places of interest.
Getting There Follow Nguyen Chi Thanh and then Tran Duy Hung until you get to the Thang Long Highway heading out to Hoa Lac. Travel down the highway for about 20km. The turning off to Chua Thay is on the right hand side close to Quoc Oai.
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TRENDSPOTTER
Bottle and
Soul A bar is no longer a bar, and a cafe is no longer just a cafe. Hanoi is becoming home to a myriad of spaces that provide more than just one function. Words by Rose Arnold. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos
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A
2013 Hanoi trend truly in the ascendant is the hybrid hangout space. Places you can go to have a drink, sure, but while you’re at it maybe attend a talk, watch a film, make something, hear poetry, create... As a ‘trend’ this one is hard to define, a bit blurryround-the-edges. Not an overnight sensation, instead it’s a slow and steady burner. The birth of the phenomenon can be traced back to 2008, with Nguyen Qui Duc’s Tadioto. A venue which, in the words of artist Frank Zeller, was “Hanoi's one and only fabulous crosscultural cafe-arts-space-poetryroom-party-joint-whisky-bar.” Tadioto was so much more than just a bar; its forced closure in 2011 to make room for a(nother) karaoke bar left a gaping hole in Hanoi. There have been big changes over the last 12 months or so. Not only does Tadioto have a new home on Truong Han Sieu — again with Duc’s unique blend of hospitality, art, soul and intellect — but a number of other multi-faceted venues
have opened across the city. It is a movement that is gaining momentum and likely to be here for the long run.
Making it Hybrid What’s the difference, you might ask? Pubs and bars have always been popular venues for small bands to play in; it’s nothing new to put up paintings and photos. Art galleries have cafes. The difference is a matter of degree and intent. These hybrid spaces are created and managed with much more in mind than just getting the punters pissed. They might be the sum of all these things but — as the phrase goes — the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Take, for example, CAMA ATK which hosts an eclectic mix of music, film and comedy along with serving some of the best cocktails in the city. Set up by the crew who first brought parties, as we know them, to Hanoi, there was no way the venue was going to be one-dimensional. Douglas Pyper, who manages ATK’s events, says the dynamic that exists makes for a more exciting, home-grown scene. “It
is more fluid. In Ho Chi Minh City the relationship between venues and bars is a bit more arms-length; promoters have to approach a bar with an idea, a business proposition. In Hanoi there are a number of venues, ATK included, that put on their own events, plus are really open to the space being used in lots of different ways.” Newcomer Tay Ho venue Madake is another definite oneto-watch on this front; look out for exciting things from them. Another important element that makes this new breed so different is the opportunity they provide to try out new things. Hanoi Social Club co-owner John Sylvan says that promoting art and culture and offering a diverse range of events is an integral part of what the venue is about. Since opening they have hosted musician meet ups, put on art classes, held
clothes swaps, craft markets and meditation classes. In 2013 you can add blues music, yoga, a debate competition and pirate radio broadcasts to the mix. Learning new stuff and making things isn’t just for the classroom; it needn’t stop just because you’re all grown up.
Passions and Interests The hybrid spaces are not merely bars with a few tacked on extras; they’re different from the heart. They’re also not the same as each other — different passions and interests provided motivation for opening the venues. Manzi art space and bar was recently opened by an artist and two cultural activists. “We wanted to create a local art space that wasn’t financially reliant on donors,” says coowner Giang Dang. “Where artists and those interested in art could meet.” Manzi has only
been open a few months but Hanoi seems hungry for what they have to offer; workshops have been well attended — talks on art have been given to packed out rooms. The venue brings something new to Hanoi, with an exciting programme of events planned encompassing art, literature, music and film. For The Hanoi Bicycle Collective, a love of bicycles was the jumping off point — they sell and repair all things pedal powered — but with a cafe, gin bar, cycling events, poetry, music and film screenings they’ve gone well beyond this initial starting point and created an exciting space in the city. Hanoi Cooking Centre began with a focus on the cooking, as the name suggests, joined forces with Bookworm and now hosts regular events, from music to markets.
And while bars and cafes have always been places where interesting conversations are had, ideas sparked and plans hatched, in the hybrid hangouts this is at the forefront. The initial idea behind Commune, which opened its doors last April, was to offer shared working space that creative and social enterprises could operate out of. The cafe and bar seemed like a natural progression, bringing income to support the space and, as co-owner Jeremy Wellard says, “because we think good food, drinks and especially good coffee are crucial to fuelling creativity.” Commune holds regular events such as creative networking and will be putting on workshops in subjects such as design, fashion, photography and filmmaking. Here’s to the bars that are so much more.
“The hybrid spaces are not merely bars with a few tacked on extras; they’re different from the heart. They’re also not the same as each other — different passions and interests provided motivation for opening the venues”
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LIVE
Death Jazz From Above
“As you’d expect, [The Japan Foundation] are not hanging around, kicking off the year by hooking up with local promoter CAMA to stage a large-scale free concert” 58 | Word February 2013
The Year of the Snake also looks set to be the Year of Cultural Collaboration thanks to the fact that it coincides with many countries celebrating 40 years of diplomatic relations with Vietnam. Douglas Pyper takes a gander at what we’ve got to look forward to. Photos provided by CAMA
B
y 1973, many countries around the world had cottoned on to the fact that the conflict in Vietnam was drawing to a close, and that only one government could boast legitimacy. Australia, Canada, Luxembourg, the UK and Japan all began diplomatic relations at this time. Denmark had already jumped the gun in 1971. The fact that 1973 was the watershed for so many countries means that this year, all these countries are falling over themselves to commemorate 40 years of diplomatic ties with one of Asia’s most significant tigers. The bottom line; we’re in for a whole year of cultural collaborations and events from some of the biggest embassy-linked cultural institutions in the city. As the biggest donor of foreign aid to Vietnam, it’s no surprise that the Japan Foundation is also the most consistently active cultural institution operating in the capital today. From film festivals to live music to art installations, the Japan Foundation hasn’t missed many beats in the last couple of years. In the process they’ve set ominously high standards for other Hanoi-based institutions to follow.
Death Jazz As you’d expect, they’re not just hanging around, instead they're kicking off the year by hooking up with local promoter CAMA to stage a large-scale free concert. The chosen act is Japan’s Soil & “Pimp” Sessions, a manic jazz quintet born out of Tokyo’s club scene. Combining world-class musicianship with a suitably pimping attitude and an in-your-face live show, the band have won plaudits and fans across the globe. A favourite of the UK’s Giles Peterson, the group released six albums on his Brownswood Recordings label, appeared on Later…with Jools Holland, the UK’s longest running and most respected live music TV programme, and played Glastonbury Festival. Pretty much everything that needs to be done in the UK, then. Describing their own music as “death jazz”, the group are perhaps counter-intuitively well-placed to bring cultures together. Their brand of jazz is unconventional and designed to break down barriers, whether they are conventions of genre, cultural barriers or stolid audienceperformer relationships. As the band themselves say: “We always felt that in the world of jazz there was an unwritten rule that the musicians were there to concentrate on their techniques and
the audience were simply there to admire, like a transmitter/ receiver relationship. We wanted to break away from that and create exciting jazz with far more interaction between the players and the audience.” Key in this is energetic frontman, Shacho. Calling himself “the agitator”, Shacho’s job is to make sure that everyone knows they’re being bombarded by pimping death jazz, and that there’s nowhere to hide.
The Local Element Representing Vietnam will be specially formed supergroup Nga tu Mat dien. A tight collective of jazz musicians, the group are relishing the challenge of supporting an off-their-rocker collection of Japanese space-jazzers and are gearing up for some virtuosity of their own. Keyboard player Phuc says that Nga tu Mat dien aren’t supporting Soil & “Pimp” Sessions, they’re dueling with them. Keeping the peace between the groups and throughout the night will be Hanoi favourite, DJ GiGiMix. His high-energy, electro-swing sets marry jack ’n’ beats with funk and jazz creating parties that cross genres and cultures. That’s a pretty promising line up, but it’s by no means guaranteed to be the biggest or best event that we can hope for this year. Rumours are rife of a large scale electronic music festival due to take place at Trinh Hoai Duc Stadium courtesy of our Gallic brothers, while Luxembourg can be said to have previous involvement with this sort of thing after giving the city two Francesco Tristano concerts in 2012. The Brits aren’t missing out, either, with a British Week planned for late September, early October. One notable absentee from this year’s celebrations will be the Americans. Having opened diplomatic relations in 1995, they should be due to treat us sometime around 2035.
The Show WHAT: Soil & “Pimp” Sessions, supported by Nga tu Mat dien and DJ GiGiMix
WHEN: Saturday Mar. 2 WHERE: Van Ho Exhibition Centre TICKETS: Free! Tickets are available
from CAMA ATK, 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung or The Japan Foundation, 27 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem
For more information about the event, the artists or the organisers, go to www. camavietnam.org
February 2013 Word | 59
PORTRAIT
Crossing Boundaries One of Vietnam’s most talented and bestknown musicians, rap artist Suboi is attempting the unthinkable — to try and make it overseas. Words by Nick Ross. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos
W
hen the idea of doing an article on Suboi was first breached in the Word office, it was met with a chorus of groans. Not because of any dislike of Vietnam’s ‘Queen of Hip Hop’. But because the 23-year-old has had so much press recently and been the focus of so many product endorsements, that this would do no more than cover already well-covered ground. Yet when the angle was explained, the response changed. Born Hang Lam Trang Anh, the rap artist will be heading to Japan later this year to collaborate on a track with a well-known Japanese musician. Part of the celebrations to mark 40 years of diplomatic relations between Japan and Vietnam, according to Suboi’s manager this will potentially be followed up by a substantial recording contract. There are no specific details as yet, but if this happens then Suboi could become the first Vietnamese artist to make it overseas. This would be a huge step not just for herself, but for the Vietnamese music industry as a whole. Dwarfed by the entertainment output of the likes of Korea and Japan, except among Viet Kieu communities, on
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the world stage V-Pop or indeed anything coming from Vietnam is non-existent. Yet making it overseas is tough for any artist, no matter their origin. Take the current K-Pop revolution that is presently storming into the charts in USA and Western Europe. Its roots are in the output of the early 1990s and in the creation of talent management agencies such as SM Entertainment, YG Entertainment and DSP Entertainment. But it took time for the success firstly of BoA and later Rain a decade later for South Korean pop music to make its way along the Pacific Rim and into the Middle East and Eastern Europe. In 2011 and 2012 it went global. From a personal point of view, Suboi is crystal clear that rising to such heights will be no easy task, particularly on the language front. “All I know is I have to make new music over there,” she says. “Maybe I will need to rap in Japanese, but I will need to have someone to help me write it. It will take time for me to understand everything.” It will also be a step into the unknown. “I have no idea what [Japan] will be like,” she adds. “I’ve never been there. Japanese
people don’t speak great English. So that is a big challenge. And I want to see how Japanese producers work. But really I’m just looking forward to the music.”
Rebel with a Cause A rebellious teenager come good who “got involved with some bad people”, the language studies graduate started rapping at 15 and first went on stage at 17 when she performed with the local nu-metal band, Winfield. But entering the last year of high school she dropped out of the band to focus on her studies. It worked. The former tearaway made it to university. Under the auspices first of Music Faces and more recently under the management of Joshua Turner her career began to take off. And in the last 18 months she’s gone from a raw talent emerging from the country’s underground hip hop scene to being a magazine cover girl and a well-known face appearing on advertising hoardings the length and breadth of Vietnam. The product endorsement contracts include Kotex, YoMost, Adidas and Samsung — she’s even had a YoMost peach-flavoured yoghurt drink named after her. Yet it’s a transformation that while welcome, is also frustrating. “If I’m on a front cover I always have to look girly, smile and be happy,” she explains. “I have a lot of tattoos, but they never get on paper.” We search out a front cover online so she can prove her point. “God I hate it!” says Suboi, pointing at her smiling image. “It’s so cheesy. Look at it! They photoshopped everything. They don’t want to see your real skin. [Blemishes] are natural. That is why I was so unhappy when I saw this cover. If you Google my name, it’s all advertising shit and teen magazine shit. I don’t look like that any more.”
“[In Vietnam] I can’t say everything I like,” she explains. “I’m not going to swear and say ‘f**! you muther f**!er’. And it’s really hard for me if I want to talk about hustling or money or all sorts of other problems. [People here] just want to hear nice things. So, I have to do it so that people can read between the lines. This is rap, you know. How can I not swear in my songs? So, this is the first big thing for me working outside of the country — I can say what I want to say.” She is also in search of new ideas. “I need to be around people to think outside the box,” she says. “Meeting different people is going to be good for me. I just want to get to know people.” Yet making it overseas, no matter how talented you are, requires work and Suboi already knows she will have to improve her language skills. Having studied Japanese and English at university, while her English is near-fluent — she raps in both English and Vietnamese — she admits that her Japanese is poor. So she’s now studying the language again at home from scratch. It’s a good start. She’s also listening to Japanese rap as well. “Music is how I talk,” she says. “What I write in there, the beat. Here they don’t let me say what I want to say. That’s why I want to go away.” Whether the reason is personal or genuinely focused on trying to bring Vietnamese music to a larger stage, there is an opportunity here. But it’s going to require a lot of mileage for V-Pop, or in this case V-Rap, to make it on the international stage.
“I need to be around people to think outside the box. Meeting different people is going to be good for me”
It’s a Rap It is such frustrations that make her pending trip to Japan so important to her. Another is the music.
The Music Suboi has now released two albums: Walk and Run. According to her manager, Joshua Turner, her best tracks are the title songs on both albums, Rainbow and Girls’ Night, a collaboration with Ho Ngoc Ha. To listen to her music, do a search on YouTube or Zing.
February 2013 Word | 61
CINEMA
KUBRICK, MURNAU and a bit of AUDREY HEPBURN
By Matt Dworzanczyk
62 | Word February 2013
EXT. HANOI. DAY
Broken traffic light displays both green and red lights. Taking advantage of the problem, hundreds of Honda motorbikes (as well as a few Suzukis and a couple of Vespas) push on in all different directions to be the first to cross the intersection. On the side of the street, an older lady prepares a bowl of noodles for the eager teenagers sitting in front of her on plastic stools.
GERRY, a tall, American man in his 40s or 50s quickly walks by. He checks his watch
and picks up speed realising he's already late. He turns into a small hidden alley, where his path is blocked by a parking attendant rearranging the many motorbikes. Gerry squeezes by, passes a group of people drinking tea in the alley and finally, walking through an old fashioned gate decorated by two decrepit Asian lanterns, he looks up above at the elegant, old school sign up on the wall - HANOI CINÉMATHÈQUE.
GERRY (Voiceover)
During my first years in Vietnam I met many filmmakers who had graduated from the national film school. What amazed me is that in their four years of studying, they had learned film history from a textbook, but never watched any films by the great filmmakers of the past. Except for a few Russian classics, I guess the film school simply did not have prints.
INT. GERRY'S OFFICE. DAY
Four thousand films — on dvd, vhs and other, outdated media cover every inch of tle room. The ones that don't fit on the shelves are piled on the floor, leaving narrow walking path. In the middle of the room is a desk covered by several TV and a stack of electronic devices capable of playback of any media format from few decades.
the litonly a screens the last
Gerry walks in and makes his way behind the desk. He moves a stack of films from the desk to the floor making room for his laptop. He turns on the screen and immediately checks new movie releases - quickly ordering any which he doesn't yet have in his collection.
GERRY (Voiceover)
We opened Hanoi Cinémathèque on January 1st 2004, having already translated approx. 300 great movies to Vietnamese. My aim was to show the great classics (and recent ‘art films’) to hopefully inspire a new generation of Vietnamese filmmakers.
EXT. PARIS - LA CINÉMATHÈQUE FRANCAISE - 1968 (FLASHBACK) A montage of shots:
HENRI LANGLOIS - the founder of the French Cinémathèque - shows off his film memorabilia collection.
FRANCOIS TRUFFAUT - the iconic French New Wave director - discusses new movements in cinema with his fellow cinephiles.
Packed theatre. People sit on the steps, some stand in the back. Everybody stares at the screen with amazement in their eyes.
A YOUNG WOMAN walks down the Champs Elysees with a pile of newspapers over her arm. YOUNG WOMAN
New York Herald Tribune! New York Herald Tribune! Unrest! Young people crowd the entrance to the French Cinémathèque demanding their creative freedom.
NARRATOR
La Cinémathèque Francaise once fostered a community of film lovers and helped launch the careers of world famous filmmakers like Francois Truffaut. Gerry Herman opened the Hanoi Cinémathèque hoping to recreate the same experience in Vietnam. He was sure the Cinémathèque would become a source of inspiration to young Vietnamese filmmakers. February 2013 Word | 63
INT. GERRY'S OFFICE. DAY
Gerry looks up from his computer screen.
GERRY (Voiceover)
Sadly, very few Vietnamese filmmakers or film students have attended our nightly screenings. Our audience has been mainly expats — which is okay, but somewhat disappointing. He gets up, careful not to knock over a stack of new films just delivered to his office, and walks out past the director-signed poster of Maria Full of Grace.
GERRY (Voiceover)
Our best nights are when we have filmmakers present — doing a Q&A after presenting their work. Over the years we’ve hosted some great directors and producers, including Josh Marsden, Phillip Noyce, Jorgen and Asger Leth, Tim Zinnemann, Peter Davis, Milcho Manchevski, Lawrence Turman, Ira Sachs, Les Blank, John Pilger, Emanuele Crialese, and many others. This year we’re expecting visits by Joe Dante, Oliver Stone and Robert Lepage.
INT. SCREENING ROOM. DAY
Gerry walks into the screening room and turns on the lights. From the darkness, rows of old-fashioned, red cinema chairs appear.
GERRY (Voiceover)
When we opened the Hanoi Cinémathèque, there were only three public cinemas in Hanoi. Today there are several modern multiplexes, which is a great development. There is no competition, however, since we only show films that do not have any commercial distribution in Vietnam. Gerry walks through the cinema and unlocks the door to a projection room in the back. There, past the massive, now outdated projector, he opens a cabinet revealing hundreds of old DVCam tapes with films.
GERRY (Voiceover)
Vietnamese cinema production is not terribly healthy today. There are actually two separate industries here. Saigon directors make rather shallow entertainment — romantic comedies, musicals, martial arts pictures. Some of these movies are commercially successful in Vietnam. Hanoi directors make rather pretentious ‘art films’ — intended mainly for film festivals — often not even shown in Vietnam. None of these productions — north or south — has ever been commercially distributed internationally. The world is still waiting for the first Vietnamese movie that is good enough to be appreciated by a wide international audience. He looks through the tapes but cannot find what he needs. He's about to close the cabinet, when he notices one more tape in the back. He reaches for it.
GERRY (Voiceover)
I must add, however, that there is some excellent documentary work being done in Vietnam. But my main interest is in traditional narrative fiction. He opens the case and takes out a tape. He turns on the projector and puts the tape in the player. He walks to the other side of the room and dims the lights in the screening room with an old, theatrical knob.
GERRY (Voiceover)
I have no idea what will happen in the near future, but hopefully a director will emerge — in the spirit of the veteran director Dang Nhat Minh — who can tell a good story, a Vietnamese story that can be understood by a wide international audience. I’m sure that a good human story will also be appreciated by a Vietnamese audience as well. The projector quietly hums as Gerry adjusts audio on a massive sound board. He leans over the board and through a little, foggy window. He looks on at the movie screen ahead as the film begins to play.
FADE OUT. 64 | Word February 2013
The Setting The Hanoi Cinémathèque is located at 22 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. The film and event schedule is sent to all members weekly. A membership card can be obtained at the Cinémathèque box office.
February 2013 Word | 65
FOOD & DRINK
Dining with Stars The import of the world-famous Michel Roux to open a restaurant in Danang means there’s now going to be a three-star Michelin chef plying his trade in Vietnam. But is it going to be a success? Words by Derek Milroy. Illustration by Melanie Elfert
T
he nation’s hospitality industry not only stood up and took notice, but was stunned into silence when InterContinental Danang announced at the end of last year it had snapped up Michelin Star chef Michel Roux OBE to front their flagship restaurant La Maison 1888. Arguably the world’s best chef, the Frenchman’s protégées include Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre White — these are just two of the names who have excelled under his wing. Signing up for a figure rumoured to be in the region of US$200,000 (VND4.2 billion), his team of overseas chefs alone are believed to be pulling in a monthly wage packet of over VND200 million, a substantial sum in a country where the average salary is just VND2 million. Many local critics think it is a huge faux pas to bring Roux to Danang, the nation’s third-largest city, rather than Saigon or Hanoi. Will, they ask, anyone go that far just to enjoy food served by a French legend?
A Gastronomic Coup? However, spokesperson Hoang Thuy Trang insists the resort is merely taking a page from the same blueprint Roux used when he kickstarted his British culinary revolution. “To explain the location we can look back to the story of the Waterside Inn,” she explains. “When Michel Roux opened his restaurant in Bray, 40km from London in a little village, people still came to visit the award-winning restaurant. So he expects the same thing with La Maison 1888. Yes, the
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location is important, but it does not have to be in a vibrant town with many people. La Maison 1888’s location is beautiful and unique. So… as long as we can offer a truly special gastronomic experience, people will come to visit and see what we have to offer.” Procuring Roux’s undeniable talents was more than an accomplishment — in football terms it is like Danang FC signing Barcelona genius Lionel Messi. However, the resort did have an ace to play after they had earlier snapped up Food and Beverage director Christian Fumado and restaurant manager Matteo Portioli, who both worked under Roux at the Waterside Inn. Coincidence, or a pre-emptive strike which worked a treat. “Mr. Roux knows and trusts the people that he is going to work with,” adds Trang. “It is always a good start for any partnership. And also, the brand name of InterContinental and the resort itself is another reason for him to join us. We are very excited and also honoured to have [him] with us.” So, is Vietnam ready for the equivalent of a Michelin Star restaurant? The resort team says ‘yes we can’. And Trang scoffs at suggestions that millionaire Roux is in Danang for an easy payday. “We will not try to achieve the starequivalent restaurant right away,” she says. “It will take time and a lot of effort. We will not use luxurious ingredients, but the freshest ones available. Michel Roux and his team will provide training to a team of young and enthusiastic Vietnamese staff
to guide them how to cook, taste and what to look for in a fine dining atmosphere. We cannot confirm the wage of Michel Roux. We can, however, confirm that it was not about the money. Mr. Roux is looking for a new challenge in his career.”
French Trained, English Famed Following his brother Albert into becoming a pastry chef, Roux arrived in England at the age of 27 to open their first restaurant, Le Gavroche on Lower Sloane Street. Already with a reputation in tow — Charlie Chaplin and Ava Gardner attended the launch — in 1972 they followed up on their first venture with the inauguration of The Waterside Inn. Two years later when Michelin stars were first awarded in the UK, Le Gavroche and the Waterside Inn were both among those restaurants to win a star, and when a number of establishments won two Michelin stars for the first time in 1977, both Roux restaurants were in the mix. This was followed by three-star ratings in the 1980s. Together the brothers have been described as the “godfathers of modern restaurant cuisine in the UK”. And with an OBE (Officer of the Order of the British Empire) to his name, quite an achievement for a Frenchman in a country that has a love-hate relationship with their Gallic neighbour, the younger Roux is a regular face on British television. But the past is past and the three-starred Michelin chef can’t wait to get his hands dirty with his new ‘baby’ in Danang. He admits he loves Vietnam and feels that people are drawn to this country.
“Vietnam will attract so many people, who will come to this country and this part of the world,” he says. “Everyone in the international community just loves their time here. Vietnam has a young population and there are exciting times ahead. And as for the food, wow, I would say it is my cup of tea. Healthy, light and fresh — pho broth and noodles is magnifique.” In La Maison 1888, Roux not only wants to create the best restaurant in Vietnam, but he wants to train young Vietnamese chefs to be the best in the country and later Asia. He admits teaching young people requires one thing — patience. “I want my chefs to be like a sponge,” says Roux, who started his culinary journey in France at the tender age of 14. “I will teach them how to approach the job. I love to travel and when I arrive, I go straight to the market as I want to know what the local people eat. My inspiration to cook comes from the market. I think cooking is a performance. The kitchen is the heartbeat, the front is the theatre.” He scoffs at the mere suggestion his cuisine is classical French, instead insisting it is modern and relaxed. Food, he stresses, is meant to be enjoyed — his restaurants not only have a reputation for high standards but a relaxed ambience. Having sold millions of copies of his 12 cookbooks, with a 13th on the go, Roux insists it is all about one thing. “I do this for the people; food is for the people. Poor, working class, wealthy, very wealthy — I cook for all people.”
February 2013 Word | 67
MYSTERY DINER
Straits Up Mixing Malay cuisine with Straits Chinese flavours and ingredients, Peranakan cuisine is new to Hanoi. Our undercover reviewer checks out Rasa Singapura, its first proponent in the capital. Photos by Francis Roux
I
t’s rare to discover a new cuisine in Hanoi. Most city dwellers have grown accustomed to a limited array of culinary options and reconciled themselves to the fact that most ethnic delicacies will likely be toned down for local palates. But walk along Truc Bach and you’ll find a small, cheerfully decorated restaurant that aims to change this situation. Although it’s modest in scale, the eatery serves flavourful curries in ample portions. What’s more, it represents what could be a completely new dining trend for Hanoi — if only more people were aware of its existence. I’m not talking about Foodshop 45. Two doors down from that Indian stalwart, the owners of Derry’s Irish Pub have converted the woodpanelled space into a Singaporean restaurant, where unusual Peranakan specialties like coconutscented rendang and creamy laksa replace the conventional assortment of deep-fried bar snacks. The space could use a bit of reworking. Tables are clustered around the edges of the room, and a staircase juts awkwardly into the dining area, making it feel like you are eating in the entryway of someone’s house. The room is dim — although bright coral napkins make it a touch more inviting — and it’s hard to shake the feeling that you are sitting in an Irish pub. Cans of Guinness still line the bar, bathed in green light. But all that fades when the food shows up. Dishes come out of the kitchen quickly, in portions that will fill you but still leave room for dessert. You’ll find the complex
68 | Word February 2013
flavours of Thai and Malay cuisine here — chilli pepper, coconut, ginger, lemongrass — but also a familiar lightness. Like Vietnamese food, Peranakan cuisine owes a significant debt to Chinese ingredients and techniques. Curries are thickened with coconut milk, but lack the heavy richness of Thai fare. Chicken is still served on the bone, with copious layers of skin and fat.
Rocking with Rendang Start your meal with gado gado (VND70,000), a platter of boiled vegetables that you dip into a warm, spicy peanut sauce. It sounds simple — wedges of hard-boiled egg and rice, crisp cold jicama and pineapple — but it’s all too easy to finish a plate. Wash the appetiser down with fragrant Malaysian tea (VND25,000) and move onto the main courses. These include noodles, soups and stir-fries, but your best bet is one of the aromatic curry-based dishes, which can be made with beef, chicken or even whole red snapper. I opted for chicken rendang (VND100,000). Although only beef rendang is listed on the menu, the owner — who doubles as the chef — made it clear that white meat is just as viable an option. Her friendly assistance can make all the difference for those unsure about how to navigate this cuisine. If you ask, she’ll explain the meaning of the Malay terms on the menu and help you figure out which dish — the spicy mee siam, the creamy laksa — is right for you. It was her advice that swayed me away from chicken curry. When she explained that the curry listed on
THE VERDICT
13 FOOD
15
SERVICE
8
DÉCOR Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals
the menu gets its flavour from curry powder, while the rendang is made with a homemade paste that includes ginger, lemongrass and copious amounts of coconut, I knew which one I wanted to try. Stewed in this light but flavourful sauce, generous hunks of chicken fall gently off the bone. Together with the mound of steamed white rice placed in front of me, the dish was both simple and satisfying. There isn’t, strictly speaking, a dessert menu. But a warm bowl of pulot hitam (VND40,000) provides a satisfactory conclusion to the meal. In this Peranakan take on sticky rice, glutinous red grains and coconut milk combine to form a sweet, chewy dessert that’s lighter and a bit less sweet than the Thai version. There are also non-Peranakan foods, testifying to the diversity of influences on Singaporean cuisine. Claypot rice makes an appearance, flecked with dried Chinese sausage and topped with chicken rendang. Skewers of satay chicken or beef, served with the addictive homemade peanut sauce, may be the closest thing here to a bar snack. When I visited at lunchtime, the restaurant was deserted. Maybe passers-by didn’t realise that the clover-green establishment was no longer an Irish pub; perhaps the dim interior wasn’t quite inviting enough. But with food this good, Rasa Singapura shouldn’t be kept secret. Rasa Singapura, 63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3715 0614. Delivery is available for VND15,000 (less than 8km) or VND25,000 (above 8km).
STREET SNACKER
Hanoi Panic One of Hanoi’s best-known Thai eateries has magicked itself away from its street-side location to new digs in West Lake. Words by Elisabeth Rosen. Photos by Francis Roux
L
adling chicken coconut soup into a wide-mouthed bowl, Mon Ovathasarn is as impassioned as his fire engine red hair would suggest. “The Vietnamese palate and the Thai palate are two different things,” says the 38-year-old chef and founder of Hanoi Panic. “I don’t like it when Vietnamese customers ask me to tone down the spices. It’s not Thai food when you do that.” Hanoi Panic’s first incarnation — or rather, its third, if you count Mon’s former punk band and DJ team, both of which bore the same name — opened last May in a narrow alley off Trang Thi. Word quickly spread about the hidden eatery, marked only by a small placard. Every night, an international crowd clustered at plastic sidewalk tables for the intensely flavoured curries and stirfries, served up in generous portions. The place was invariably so crowded that tables had to be carried out to the sidewalk outside, arousing the curiosity of passers-by. By December, Hanoi Panic had outgrown the tiny setting. It’s now settled into more spacious quarters at Madake, an Asian-themed bar that also includes a performance venue and beer garden. But despite the polished surroundings, the Philadelphia-born chef still approaches the bold flavors of Thai food with an equally audacious mentality. “This is Thai soul food,” Mon says, throwing oil into a pan. “That’s why
my portions are big. I try to stay authentic.”
Upping the Ante Smooth wooden chairs have replaced the blue plastic stools, but the prices haven't changed. Exposed brick walls recall the gritty sidewalk vibe while softening it up; this is a place you can bring a date, or even the parents. The menu is still printed on paper, and the comments under each dish make it clear that the chef knows what he’s doing — and wants you to understand, too. “This dish needs a bit or a lot of heat to really taste good,” Mon writes under a stir-fry with basil. “I can even throw in a sunny side up fried egg for you! Like the Thais like it!” The kitchen is small, but Mon has ambitions far larger than the two-burner stove where he and his sous chef, Quan, do the cooking. Surrounded by jars of spices and colourful chilli peppers, the former psychology major sautees strips of beef to throw on top of a bowl of bean sprouts while Quan, who worked in Le Pub for several years before coming here, dices shallots for pad thai. “I learned to cook from my father,” Mon says. Moving away from the stove, he grabs a handful of yellow curry paste and dots it onto a wonton wrapper. “My parents had a restaurant in Philadelphia. I was always afraid to cook with them. They knew more than I did. I would rather just watch.” He folds
the wrapper into an elegant twist. “It wasn’t until I left home that I really started cooking for myself and my friends.” Now the shallots are in the pan on high heat, along with chicken, tofu and garlic. Quan adds a generous clump of rice noodles to the sizzling mix and tosses it around with tongs, followed by a dollop of oyster sauce. For those accustomed to pad thai with a gooey tamarind-based sauce, the noodles here come as a revelation. “I make this dish the way my father showed me,” Mon says. “Just oyster sauce, then sugar. We make sure it’s melted and caramelised. Then dried chilli and peanuts.” An egg goes in, then Quan adds the finishing touches: lime, bean sprouts, green onion. Tossed together and dusted with incendiary chilli pepper, the flavors are just as vibrant as they were on the street. The layers of flavour — sweetness, spice, a bit of citrus — make the dish feel fresher than the sauce-heavy version that other restaurants serve. Asked whether he misses cooking on the street, Hanoi-style, he shakes his head. “It's more fun here,” Mon says. “I don't have the neighbours yelling at me.” Hanoi Panic is located in Madake at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Entree prices range from VND55,000 to VND80,000 for a dish. Winter hours are from 11am to 10pm.
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INVESTMENT & FINANCE 073
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BEVERLY INVESTMENT
Room 919, Suite 8, Song Da Building, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3794 9669 www.beverly.vn Professional investment company dealing with real estate resort, hotel and senior housing projects all over the country. Working to promote sustainable development, Beverly provides good value for its partners, investors, customers and society.
TMF GROUP
Unit 06-023, 6th Floor, Prime Center Building, 53 Quang Trung, Ha Dong 8th Floor, 53 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 9733 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 2660 Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC, Tel: 3910 2262 www.tmf-group.com TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.
KPMG
16th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 1600 www.kpmg.com.vn Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also does executive search and selection.
PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS
7th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3946 2246 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.
THANG LONG AUDITING COMPANY 23 Tran Duy Hung, Trung Hoa, Cau Giay Tel: 4976 2055 A Vietnamese company with more than 30 representative branches outside of Hanoi, Thang Long provides a full range of services, including audit, accounting, tax, corporate secretarial and business consultancy.
premiums; marketing; public relations & events. Clients include multi-national brands and NGOs.
TMF VIETNAM COMPANY LIMITED
2811, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: 3910 922 www.tmf-group.com With over 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. TMF is expanding rapidly throughout the world. Learn more about our unique network and our services by visiting our website.
ADVERTISING & MARKETING CRUNCHY FROG
www.ogilvy.com International marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know-how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity. 2nd floor, 63 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2246 0682 www.studiotada.com A small, young and elite designing and branding agency that has been working with well-known local and global brands like DMC, Hermes, Kenzo and Porsche. The company offers services in branding, event, print and digital. With a youthful, energetic and experienced team, Tada has played an important part in international graphic design and advertising projects across Vietnam and France.
10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co Street, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com Leonito develops marketing campaigns & behaviour change communications strategies for commercial brands and nongovernment organizations. Services: brand development; design & printing; gifts &
AMCHAM
M Floor, Business Center, Hilton Hanoi Opera, 1 Le Thanh Tong Tel: 3934 2790 www.amchamhanoi.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.
T&A OGILVY JVC LTD.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM
BOOZ ALLEN HAMILTON, INC.
LEONITO MARKETING CONSULTING
BUSINESS GROUPS
AUSCHAM
Level 8, 142 Le Duan, Dong Da www.red.tm Working from Vietnam to Australia, the Red team creates and shapes unique brand personalities to international and local brands. The team specialises in brand consultancy and marketing, regularly sharing industry trends, news and views at their blogsite, red.tm/blog.
GREY GROUP
10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com In addition to their own clients, Leonito works in partnership with the Grey Group, a major full-spectrum marketing and communications company with offices in nearly 100 countries. Services include research, branding, activations, events and public relations.
L3-14 Thuy Khue. Ba Dinh Tel: 3728 0776 www.t-cgroup.com A well-known Vietnamese conglomerate of companies operating since 1994, T&C’s focus is on providing internationalstandard consultation to engineering and infrastructure projects. They also provide market research consulting.
RED BRAND BUILDERS
3rd Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 6008 T&A is a marketing services company set up in Hanoi in 1995. Since then, they’ve offered their marketing services to several large overseas companies. They also work in co-operation with WPP, a world-wide brand communications firm.
LEONITO
T&C INVESTMENT HOLDING
STUDIO TADA
8 Xom Chua, Tay Ho Tel: 01283 443579 www.crunchyfrogdesign.com Crunchy Frog is a personable and experienced western design and branding agency. They offer high quality creative and strategic solutions to both local and global clients. Services include research, brand and marketing strategy, and design of communications materials, brand identity, packaging and websites. 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.grey.com/vietnam Founded in 1917 in New York, Grey is a full spectrum global communications company offering branding, advertising, marketing, digital, and PR, with offices in 100 countries. Grey is the only agency with a specialised HoReCa team. In Vietnam, the client roster includes Nike, Vinaphone, Levis, TNT, ESPN, Bayer, Samsung Mobile, BaoViet, P&G, BAT, and 35 other top local and international brands.
tunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, stateowned and foreign.
BUSINESS CONSULTING Room 703, 7th Floor, MOF Project Building, No. 4, Lane 1, Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 9662 www.boozallen.com A US-based private consulting firm, Booz Allen Hamilton is one of the most notable names in the business. This firm has a long track record of assisting governments and multi-nationals in risk assessment and mission development.
DELOITTE
8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da, Tel: 3852 4123 www.deloitte.com One of the Big Four, this firm offers a broad range of audit, tax, consulting, risk, and financial advice to businesses. Over 182,000 employees in more than 150 countries, Deloitte serve more than 80 percent of the world's largest companies, Vietnam now being one of them.
DICKERSON KNIGHT GROUP
33A Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 2692 www.thinkdkg.com Established in 1991, this international firm has extensive experience in emerging markets. Their speciality is in providing advisory and training products to private sector enterprises and NGOs.
ERNST & YOUNG
Daeha Business Centre, 15th Floor, 360 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh, Tel: 4831 5100 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalize on oppor-
Room 2707, 1010 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3562 5786 ext. 107 www.auschamvn.org An organisation bringing together Australian companies and individuals doing business in Vietnam, the Australian Chamber of Commerce offers advice on doing business. Also offers networking opportunities and social events.
193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0906 240159 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2393 www.icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the development of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.
LAC VIET COMPUTING CORP
Hanico Building 110 Thai Thinh, Dong Da Tel: 3512 1846 www.lacviet.com.vn Since its founding in 1994, professional services and innovative solutions has led LAC VIET to a recognized position of leadership in Vietnam. LAC VIET employs more than 400 professionals in IT services and product development. LAC VIET is a certified MicrosoftTM Gold Partner; CiscoTM Premier Reseller; Dell Distributor and Authorised Service Provider(DASP).
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2229 www.ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.
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business EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2228. www.eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
Suite 504, Thanh Ha Building, Linh Dam Tel: 3641 6864 www.nordchamhn.org.vn Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM
Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: 4772 0833 www.sbav-hanoi.org An association that actively fosters business relations with other business communities while promoting social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities.
COMMERCIAL PHOTOGRAPHY NOI PICTURES
25/158 Ngoc Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3747 8611 noipictures@noipictures.com www.noipictures.com Photography and film agency specialising in commercial assignments, stock photography and production services in Vietnam. Has a number of mainly overseas photog-
HANOI WEBSITES HANOIGRAPEVINE.COM
The place to go for all things related to the arts in a city that is developing its own, vibrant contemporary arts scene. Has event calendars, event postings, blogs, addresses and contact details, and covers anything from classical music through to installations, rock concerts and more.
INFOSHAREHANOI.COM
Provides the expat community with essential information for living and working in Hanoi including comprehensive and up-to-date events listings as well as address lists of galleries, cinemas, theatres, hotels, housing agencies, embassies and much more. Subscribe to receive their weekly newsletter.
LINKHANOI.COM
Event photos, a what’s on calendar, restaurant and bar listings and in fact, pretty much everything you want to know about nightlife in Hanoi can be found on this popular website. Also organize regular events and parties.
NEWHANOIAN.COM
The city’s best known website, The New Hanoian provides user-generated listings, reviews and event information on pretty much anything and everything in the capital. Register, create your profile, write a review and receive frequent newsletters.
WORDHANOI.COM
The online extension of The Word, contains both content from the print edition as well as blogs, events, news, a what’s on calendar, party photos and much more. Also has downloadable PDF versions of the whole publication.
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raphers in their books both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
CORPORATE GIFTS REGAL PREMIUMS
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0685 7167 www.regalvietnam.com Regal Premiums produces trendy corporate gifts, premiums gifts, promotional gifts and branded mass giveaway items. Professional team helps with design to fit your brand and production and logistics to fit your budget.
HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CB RICHARD ELLIS (VIETNAM) CO., LTD
6 Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 0220 www.cbrevietnam.com Finding the perfect accommodation to meet your various demands in Hanoi is made simple thanks to CBRE’s residential leasing team. Our services are inclusive of site finding, travelling fees, contract negotiation and resolving any other issues which arise during the term of the lease, all of which are free of charge for the tenant.
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM 9th floor, Vinaplast, Tai Tam Building, 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 5888 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represent property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management and support services. Attempt to accelerate the success of their clients by making their knowledge your property.
CREATION
Room 802, Building 101, 101 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 2246 2232 A real estate company that provides both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Also offers free brokerage and many other support services.
DALUVA HOME
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.daluva.com/apartment Thoughtfully appointed and decorated, Daluva Home features a cosy bedroom for true rest, plus open living, dining, and work areas. Extras include two LCD TVs, iPod dock, and outdoor patio. Housekeeping, and daily breakfast from the Daluva Breakfast Menu are also included. Private car and tour booking service available.
HANOI HOUSE HUNTER
Quang Trung Building, Room 203, 39 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0983 336336 www.hanoihousehunter.com This company can assist you in finding an apartment that meets your living and budget requirements. Though they specialise in high-end, high-rise apartments, they do have a range of options. The website contains most listings.
KNIGHT FRANK
40 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem www.knightfrank.com UK real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sale, lease, management, price appraisal, counselling and market research.
MEGALAND
2nd Floor, 43 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5556 Specialising in meeting housing needs
of expatriates and overseas Vietnamese, Megaland offers a wide range of serviced apartments, villas and commercial spaces.
SAVILLS VIETNAM
6th floor, Sentinel Place, 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 1300 www.savills.com.vn A leading global real estate service provider listed on the London Stock Exchange with over 200 offices worldwide. Provides consultancy services, property management, space planning, facilities management, corporate real estate services, leasing, valuation and sales to the key segments of commercial, industrial, retail, residential and investment property.
TAN LONG HOUSING
Moongate Building, 5th & 6th Floor, 107 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9864 www.tanlonghousing.com Tan Long has been concentrating on assisting individuals in the process of buying, selling and renting property in Hanoi since 1999. They also have several branch offices, and a useful website that can help to fill residential or commercial needs.
THREE TEMPLES
73B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 3366 www.threetemples.com Three Temples is a full-service, design-led property development and marketing company that specialises in creating residential addresses by providing high quality architecture, residential design, interior design, commercial consultancy, marketing and branding solutions. A onestop-shop to finance, design, brand and build for the finest residential products.
and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1 800 599 998.
PRUDENTIAL
24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 5999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centers throughout the country.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Tower, Duy Tan, Cau Giay Tel: 3795 8878 www.concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
48 Lieu Giai Boulevard, Ba Dinh www.hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.
VIETNAM LAND
38 Phan Boi Chau Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3787 0188 Vietnam Land was incorporated in Vietnam in 2002 as a commercial and residential real estate services, real estate property management and real estate development company. Since that time Vietnam Land has successfully developed two residential towers at the Chelsea Park project in Hanoi and a residential land sales project in Hung Yen province called Villa Park.
INSURANCE AIG
Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3936 1455 www.aig.com Offers a range of insurance products and services including property, casualty and marine exposure insurance. Also has comprehensive travel and accident coverage, as well as healthcare packages for expats residing in Vietnam.
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.
LIBERTY INSURANCE
16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: 3755 7111 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-for-profit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN
Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra Tel: 3743 0306 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7243 Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6418 www.hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.
business
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, 726 1601, Block C3, Ciputra, Tel: 3758 2664 An international school with an excellent record in a host of countries around the world, now available to those in Hanoi within its salubrious surrounds in Ciputra.
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)
Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org With more than 800 students from 50 different countries, UNIS is a non-profit IB World School that instructs students from as young as three years old through to grade 12. Established in 1988 by agencies representing the United Nations, the pristine campus has a broad range of facilities and is located in the gated community of Ciputra.
INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL
11th Floor, Hanoi Lake View Bldg, 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0203 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.
INDOCHINA CAPITAL
Floors 9-9A, 60 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3930 6399 www.indochinacapital.com A leading investment firm operating in the ASEAN region with a particular focus on Vietnam. Assists partners, co-investors and clients to achieve financial objectives while focusing on four core areas: corporate finance and advisory services, investment management and real estate development.
MEKONG CAPITAL
12th Floor, HAREC Building, 4A Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4888 www.mekongcapital.com A private equity firm which focuses on the growth equity of companies in the developing Vietnamese economy.
company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is an investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 2051 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers highquality and cost-effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres. 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 1922 www.britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.
CLEVERLEARN
Building 3, 2C Diplomatic Compound, Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1698 www.cleverlearnvietnam.vn With two main schools in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Cleverlearn offers mainly conversational and business English courses. An authorised in iBT test site by the ETS.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM
62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3733 8402 www.languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.
LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS
VIT Tower, 18th Floor, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 2220 8979 The Vietnamese subsidiary of France’s Societe Generale, the company recently opened a Hanoi branch. This was the first financial company in Vietnam to focus entirely on consumer credit.
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT
BAKER & MCKENZIE
66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 3820 0623. www.t-wm.com TWM provides information related to inter-country personal financial planning. They will walk you through the solutions and products available and will constantly monitor and manage your portfolio through opportunity and instability in global financial markets.
VIET TIN FINANCIAL CO.
1st & 2nd Floor, 40 Pho Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3941 1566 www.viet-tin.com A locally based securities and stock brokerage firm whose stated mission is to provide valued returns to partners and shareholders.
VINACAPITAL
5th Floor, Sun City Building, 13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 4630 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management
** A Marriage Made in Math * * By Shane Dillon
M=Y+(1/ M=Y+(1/ ee (X-Y)) (X-Y))
BRITISH COUNCIL
Suite 401, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3936 0990 Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.
SG VIETFRANCE
{BUSINESS Buff}
13th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1428 www.bakernet.com One of the first international law firms to establish representative offices in Vietnam, Baker & McKenzie provide onthe-ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.
FRASERS LAW COMPANY
Unit 1205, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3946 1203 www.frasersvn.com As the first legal firm licensed as a foreign law company in Vietnam, Frasers provides legal advice on all areas of business and commerce within the country. They provide international legal advice in a Vietnamese context, and are ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising in this jurisdiction.
A
s someone who has just celebrated 12 months of marital bliss and with the added good fortune of marrying a fellow mathematician, you can imagine my enjoyment in finding some solid statistical research on the issue. So all those considering taking the big step on Valentine’s Day, read on and find the scientific formulae for a happy marriage. A 2010 study, published in the European Journal of Operational Research looked at 1,074 couples aged between 19 and 75 years, to discover which social factors were vital to a long and happy relationship. The results concluded that the perfect bride should be five years younger than the groom, from the same cultural background, and smarter by at least 27 percent. Optimally, the woman should have a degree, while the husband should remain relatively uneducated. The logic being that because women traditionally invest more raw emotion in a relationship, women have a tendency to carry the emotional happiness of the entire relationship, while the men tag along. Basically, if the wife is happy, then the husband is happy, too. Another academic reasoned: “Going back to prehistory, women have needed to invest more in relationships than men, because men are more biologically adapted to spread their seed around, they were therefore more likely to invest their intellectual abilities in maintaining that bond.”
When Should You Marry? Lead researcher Nguyen Vi Cao states: “If people follow these guidelines in choosing their partners, they can increase their chances of a long, happy marriage by up to 20 percent.” He added that marrying a divorcee makes it far more unlikely that you will be happy. Another mathematician (Lindley) figured out the best age to get married by deducing the best time to make your decision is roughly one third of the way into your period of availability. To be exact, you divide your total “available” time by the exponential e, which is equal to 2.718. For women, the period of availability [sic] is about 30 years, from age 16 to 46. Available time over e is roughly 11. Add 11 to 16 and you find that the “mathematically correct” age for a woman to get married is 27. Many say that men have a longer period of marriage availability from 16 to 60, which is a 44-year window. Over e again is 16, add that to their 16 year starting time, and you find that the mathematician’s time for a man to get married is 32 years of age. But as far as the maths of marriage goes, sometimes the numbers don’t add up. But then again, sometimes the result is greater than the sum of the parts. Shane works in financial services. To contact him email shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn
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business FRESHFIELDS BRUCKHAUS DERINGER
#05-01 International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 7422 This law firm works in 19 countries and is one of the world’s largest. They regularly advise large clients on international investment, banking and finance.
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.
Pacific Place, Suite 505 – 507, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 2350 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 24 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services which combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.
ROUSE LEGAL (HANOI BRANCH)
7th Floor, VIT Building, 519 Kim Ma, Dong Da Tel: 3577 0479 www.iprights.com Rouse is an international intellectual property law firm. From HCMC and Hanoi we advise on protection and enforcement of trade marks, patents, copyright and domain names; commercial IP, IP management/strategy.
RUSSIN & VECCHI
11/F, Hanoi Central Office Bldg., Suite 1104, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3825 1700 A financial law firm which focuses on commercial and investment matters for corporate clients. In some cases they can provide assistance to individual clients.
MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRITISH UNIVERSITY VIETNAM
193 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 7596 www.britishuniversity.edu.vn The first university offering prestigious UK degrees in Vietnam. Courses offered in 2010 include International Business Administration, Banking & Finance, Accounting & Finance, Marketing Management, Accounting & Business. Pre-university courses are also available.
G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES
HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh Tel: 3762 3805 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign-invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in-house programs to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic-based business and management programmes.
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1460. www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and longterm courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.
MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO
142 Le Duan, Dong Da Tel: 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com www.cimigo.com Independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in Hanoi and the Asia Pacific region in general. Services include auditing and optimising research programs, knowledge manage-
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ment, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH
7th Floor, 73 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4661 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina. Focus is on developing partnerships that leverage their market knowledge and on enhancing their client’s competitive position in the region.
THE NIELSEN COMPANY
3rd floor, 85 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 1161 www.nielsen.com Media company offering integrated marketing and media measurement information and analytics. Offers full service capability across qualitative, quantitative, media and retail measurement for FMCGs, consumer products, finance, telecoms and more.
VINALINK
11th Floor, Lang Ha Building, 14 Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: 3772 4234 www.vinalink.com Specialising in online survey-based market research, Vinalink is a subcontractor for a few global market research firms, including CALEB Global and Pulse Group.
PUBLIC RELATIONS MEDIA ONE
Rm 207, 40A Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3966 www.media-one.vn PR company with offices both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Focuses mainly on the Telecom and IT industries, providing a range of services including events, product activation, consulting, marketing and advertising.
PIONEER COMMUNICATIONS
Floor 6, 58 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3945 4398. www.pioneervn.com Pioneer Communications is one of the leading agencies in providing integrated marketing and public relations solutions for businesses and organiastions in Vietnam.
TQPR
HR2B
Suite A6, 3rd Floor, Horison Office Center, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3736 6843 www.hr2b.com The forte of this company is placing highly talented Vietnamese and expat candidates into executive positions at medium to large companies. Rapidly growing, in the past years they’ve added Coca Cola, DHL and Prudential to their client list.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
MANPOWER VIETNAM
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES
12th Floor, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 4574 www.manpower.com.vn Established in Vietnam at the beginning of 2008, Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.
NAVIGOS GROUP
Suite 1401, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung , Tel: 3974 3033 www.navigosgroup.com Adept at solving human resource challenges through excellence in matching and management talent. Has offices in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS
8 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 6275 2824 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.
ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO
Inland Customs Depot Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: 3768 5882 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption to family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.
Room 109, House K, 7, 2ha, Vinh Phuc Ward, Ba Dinh., Tel: 32474 028 www.tqpr.com One in a group of companies from Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, the company offers international standard consultancy services and value-added results to local, regional and global clients.
CROWN RELOCATION SERVICES
VENUS COMMUNICATIONS
No 17 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 4375 www.hanoihousing.vn A one-stop housing service that specialises in relocation, trained professionals can take care of housing rentals, short and long term as well as car rentals. They also have an extension showroom for furniture rental and custom furniture, making your transition as easy as possible.
4 Da Tuong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7066 Well-known PR and communications company with offices in both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Offers the full range of PR, advertising and consultancy services.
RECRUITMENT & HR AON VIETNAM LIMITED
14th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0832 www.aon.com/vietnam Founded in Vietnam in 1994, among other things, Aon now concentrates on human capital consulting, assisting their clients with compensation, benefit analyses and outsourcing.
95E Ly Nam De, Ba Dinh , Tel: 3936 6741 www.crownrelo.com Offering both family and corporate relocation services locally and internationally, Crown prides themselves on being a kidfriendly company.
IMAGE GROUP HOUSING
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS
6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3826 0334 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
3A Alley, 49 Huynh Thuc Khang Tel: 3773 7191 www.residentvietnam.com Established in 2000, Resident Vietnam was the first dedicated Expatriate Service Provider in Vietnam. Resident Vietnam provides full relocation and immigration management services to several multinational companies in Vietnam and ser vices the Global Mobility industry. Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Union Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0908 096222 sales@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. We are proud to be the only moving company with both ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.
SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0912 239085 www.atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.
DALUVA HOME
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 Whether traveling or on a temporary stay, Daluva can provide space & comfort. Thoughtfully appointed Daluva Homes feature a cozy bedroom for true rest, and an open living area that opens up to a terrace with plants.
FRASER SUITES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 8877 http://hanoi.frasershospitality.com Great location in Syrena Tower on West Lake, Fraser Suites offer a tranquil repose from the busy city. Has several apartments with excellent views and provides gold-standard service.
MAYFAIR
34B Tran Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0030 www.mayfair-hanoi.com A building with a great location, and some of the largest apartments you’ll find. The Mayfair is popular among the diplomatic and international business communities.
SEDONA SUITES
No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0888 www.sedonahotels.com.sg 175 well-designed, furnished apartments and villas combining the comforts of home with the conveniences of a fine hotel.
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI
49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 2342 www.somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24-hour reception and central location.
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25-48 passengers each for day trippers, providing cruise services for travelers with a mid-range budget.
visit wordhanoi.com for a HALONG DREAM HOTEL comprehensive list of our listings $$$ 10 Halong Road, Halong , Tel: 0333 849 009 CREDIT
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www.halongdreamhotel.com Close to the pier and the new bridge, what this hotel lacks in character is made up for in cleanliness and comfort. There are 184 rooms priced between VND2 million and VND6 million. Other facilities include indoor pool, health club and sauna.
NHA TRANG 079 NORTH-EAST 080 NORTH-WEST 080 PHAN THIET / MUI NE 080 PHU QUOC 080 SAPA 080 TAM DAO 080 TRAVEL SERVICES 083
HALONG PLAZA
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$$$ 8 Halong Road, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: 0333 845810, www.halongplaza.com One of the many large tower-type hotels in Halong City, Halong Plaza has pretty much everything you’d expect from a 4-star hotel. 200 rooms, a bar and a restaurant that touts its seafood and barbecue.
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hotels, the aircon old but clean rooms come in all shapes and sizes and have satellite TV, a fridge and a mini bar. The front-desk staff speaks English and can help sort out any travel arrangements. Rates from around VND250,000 per night.
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$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness center with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relax lounge and VIP massage room.
HARBOUR VIEW HOTEL
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DALAT BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA
$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and modern amenities, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa, and prices to match.
Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic hotel, but it’s right in the middle of town.
DANANG
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$ 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private place has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from $10 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL
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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat , Tel: 063 382 2663 You get door-to-door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the
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DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$ Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Coastal Street Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son, Tel: 0511 396 1800 With six different styles of villa units that offer views of the ocean, the mountains and a green of a golf course, the Danang Beach Resort is one of the most luxurious places to stay in this much overlooked city. The property also offers 33-storey twin towers housing a five-star hotel and golf courses adding up to 36 holes. CREDIT CREDITCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude-cruises.com This reproduction of a 19th-century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in impeccably maintained cabins. The great food and service adds to the already beautiful setting. They also offer transfers directly from Hanoi.
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HAI LONG JUNKS, HALONG BAY BUSINESS
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32 Anh Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846099 Hai Long Junks is one of the three largest cruise operators in Halong Bay. The company boasts 11 overnight cruise vessels with a total of 160 cabins and 15 traditional junks with capacities from
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$ 39 Vuon Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846009 Found just outside Halong City on Bai Chay beach, this is clean, honest accommodation for a reasonable price. Located on “Hotel Alley”, there are a lot of options here. The rooms are fairly well looked after and clean. You can usually get one for under VND400,000, but prices vary depending on the season.
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$ Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Tel: 0313 888899 This is one of the better hotels on Cat Ba Island. Large, clean rooms with all the modern conveniences, as well as a restaurant and a popular bar. The front desk can also arrange tailor-made tours around the bay.
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BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three-night tours are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.
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$$$ www.oceanbeachresort.com.vn This resort is on a private island just off of Cat Ba Island. Around VND600,000 will get you a comfortable room in a bungalow close to the beach. Fee also includes the boat ride from Cat Ba. For more information check on the web.
BAI TU LONG ECOTOURISM RESORT $ Halong Commune, Van Don , Tel: 0333 793156 Stay in a beachside bungalow or a traditional resort-style hotel on the shores of Van Don Island. Bai Tu Long Bay is situated just up the coast from Halong City. The staff here can help you arrange tours that will offer scenery a bit different than the standard tours of Halong Bay.
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$$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh. Tel: 0333 848108 www.novotelhalongbay.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including a pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.
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ROYAL HOTEL
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$$$$ 66 Pho Ha Long, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 848999. www.royalhalong.com The four-star Royal Hotel boasts villas, well-landscaped gardens and a pool, all overlooking Halong Bay. Just two minutes walk from Bai Chay, the property has a resort feel and the rooms are housed in several buildings. If you’re feeling lucky, there’s also a ‘Gaming Club’.
HAI PHONG BACH DANG HOTEL
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$$ 42 Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 384 2444 bachdanghotelhp@hn.vnn.vn One of the best of the town’s best budget
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$$$ 4 Tran Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 382 7827 www.harbourviewvietnam.com Hai Phong’s most prestigious address, this cool, retro French-colonial style property is the only international standard hotel in town. Designed with panache without being pretentious, room rates at this 122-unit property start at around VND2.5 million.
HUU NGHI HOTEL
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$$$ 60A Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 384 2706 www.huunghihotel.vn One of the larger hotels in town, Huu Nghi offers some of the comforts you might miss at the other places. In addition to the clean up-to-standard rooms, the hotel also has a swimming pool and tennis courts. CREDIT
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$$ 3K Ly Tu Trong, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 374 6540 New and tidy, with cable TV and airconditioning, Maxim is one of the best mini hotels in town. Rooms are small but have good modern conveniences like satellite TV and new, clean bathrooms done in designer tiles. Room rates around VND250,000 to VND300,000 a night.
MONACO HOTEL
103 Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 374 6468 One of the more modern hotels on Dien Bien Phu Street, the prices here are competitive and it’s possible to request a room with a kitchen. Standards with aircon and a TV start at VND350,000 per night.
HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI
$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: 6270 6688. www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property. This 24-storey mixed-use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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DAEWOO HOTEL
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$$$ 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a
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destination
{ TRAVEL Promos }
favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI
$$$ 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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PHOTO BY: SARAHMWORTHY
** PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH * *
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969, www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) and daily replenished minibar and snacks service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare, and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails. CREDIT
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NOVOTEL NHA TRANG novotel-nhatrang.com There isn’t a finer place to take in the fireworks this year in Nha Trang than the roof terrace of the Novotel Nha Trang. Add in a free flow of wine, beer and soft drinks for VND500,000++ per person, and you have your Tet plans set. Stay all the way to Valentine’s and take in a romantic dinner with your loved one for VND735,000++ per person — including a five-course meal, and a romantic, candle-lit, violin-enhanced backdrop. Add in a private-room couple’s massage and floral bath for only VND2.5 million++ per couple, all inclusive. NTTV TRAVEL VIP travel.nttv.biz NTTV Travel, a leading upmarket-hotel booking service, is launching a VIP membership programme for current and prospective customers. To qualify, customers need to spend VND10 million on hotel bookings. The rewards include 10 percent cash-back on future bookings, VIP rates and distinctive prizes only available to VIP members. MERCURE DANANG mercure-danang.com This Lunar New Year you can take advantage of an
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all-you-can-eat dim sum from Feb. 9 to 17, 7am to 2pm, for just VND350,000 net per person at Mercure Danang. There are more than 50 items, including dumplings, noodles, soups and desserts, as part of the deal. There is also a spa special which includes a herbal footbath followed by a traditional Vietnamese massage and scalp massage to relax the muscles. Complete the journey with a Karma signature tea and ginger jam priced at only VND950,000 net for 100 minutes, until Feb. 28. There is also a Valentine’s Day package which includes a steam, sauna & jacuzzi, your favourite body massage and mini facial. Afterwards, enjoy a sparkling wine and fresh fruits with candle light for only VND1,950,000 net for 150 minutes, until Feb. 28. BANYAN TREE banyantree.com Banyan Tree Lang Co is teaming up with the newly-opened Laguna Lang Co Golf Club to introduce the Must Golf Banyan Tree Lang Co package. From now until the end of March, guests who book the package, starting from US$705 per villa per night, will receive an extra night’s accommodation for two including daily breakfast and one round of
18-hole golf for two people — including green fee, caddy fee and caddy booking fee. Banyan Tree’s 18-hole, par-71 championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike.
HANOI HILTON
ANGSANA LANG CO angsana.com Angsana Lang Co, located 60 minutes from Danang International Airport, has introduced the Stay & Meet offer to corporate groups for meetings and stays from Feb. 1 until Jun. 30. The newest resort in Central Vietnam is equipped with four meeting rooms and a stately ballroom measuring 392sqm. It is host to business functions, gala events and weddings. For VND5,500,000 per person those who book the Stay & Meet deal enjoy two nights’ stay on twin sharing basis in a Deluxe Room, complimentary daily buffet breakfast, group round-trip airport transfer to Danang International airport, one full-day meeting package (lunch and two tea breaks included), one three-course menu set dinner at Market Place restaurant and complimentary high-speed internet access resort-wide.
PULLMAN HOTEL
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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0500, www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this fivestar is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top-end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0808, www.pullman-hanoi.com A recent refit and a change of management — this property is now run by the Accor group — have given this 250-room hotel the sparkle that it had once lost. Good quality deluxe rooms and suites, a cavernous but contemporary looking lobby, an excellent buffet and a la carte restaurant, and a sleek image that would be at home anywhere in the world, this business traveller-orientated property is also close enough to the Old Quarter to make it a great stopping off point for anyone wanting to explore Hanoi.
HOTEL DE L’OPERA
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$$$$ 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555, contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE
$$$$ 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental.com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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destination together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.
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$$$ 17A Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com A contemporary boutique hotel a stone’s throw from Hang Cot in the Old Quarter. Colonial era accents throughout and an oriental themes lobby. 32 upmarket rooms and an intimate top class restaurant make this a strong contender in an area with plenty of competition.
MELIA HANOI
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$$$$ 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 3343, www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.
MERCURE HANOI LA GARE
$$$ 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3944 7766 When your train arrives from Sapa at 5am, you will be overjoyed if your bed is just across the street from the station in one of the 102 spacious rooms at this smart hotel. A stone’s throw from both the Old Quarter and the Temple of Literature, Mercure Hanoi boasts a French brasserie, an internal courtyard, a fitness centre and a retail outlet of wine importer and distributor Da Loc. CREDIT
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$$$$ 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3822 2800, www.moevenpick-hanoi.com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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THANG LONG OPERA HOTEL
$$$ 1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 4775 www.thanglongopera.com This hotel houses 71 spacious, comfortable rooms all equipped with high speed internet, bath tub and room service. They have a meeting room, which can accommodate up to 60 people, as well as a restaurant and bar downstairs. CREDIT
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16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.
ZEPHYR
GIABAO HANOI & GIABAO GRAND
$$$ 38 & 23 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2222 Two mid-range hotels situated in the heart of Hanoi,just 150 meters from Hoan Kiem Lake. Built using a blend of western and oriental architecture, the properties have 28 and 35 rooms respectively, all with mod-cons. For a bit more luxury stay at the Giabao Grand. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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GOLDEN LOTUS HOTEL
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$$ 32 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8583 www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn The interesting arty decor of this place is a bonus, as is its value for money – it’s not often you pay under VND1 million for a modern hotel room slap bang in the middle of town. Try to get a front room (with balcony) to look out over the bustling Old Quarter. They’ve also opened a second Golden Lotus just down the street at number 39.
HANOI SPRING HOTEL II
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$$ 44 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 3667 www.camellia-hotels.com Basic rooms and friendly service at this well-known hotel. One of six properties of the same name in Hanoi, internet terminals are located in the lobby, and the property also offers a host of tour itineraries. Rooms vary in price from VND500,000 to VND700,000. Some of their other locations are more budget-friendly.
HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL $
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.
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$$$ 4 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 1256 www.zephyrhotel.com.vn A mid-size boutique hotel with a prime location, Zephyr offers a range of packages and special offers on rooms that are clean and stylish. The lobby boasts a coffee house and restaurant with both Asian and Western Cuisine.
CAMELLIA HOTEL
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MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI
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to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.
Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
HONG NGOC HOTEL
$$$ 34 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5053 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact, with small but clean bathrooms, and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi-Fi connections available. Some of the locations include sauna, steam bath and fitness facilities
LITTLE HANOI HOTEL
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$ 58 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 8648 www.littlehanoihotel.com Spacious rooms with ADSL broadband connections starting at around VND600,000 a night. The rooms at the front are more expensive, and breakfast is included. The staff speak good English and are very helpful. Has a number of sister hotels in town, two of which are located next to the cathedral. The third is on Tue Tinh, close to Lenin Park. Check the website for details.
HO CHI MINH CITY CARAVELLE HOTEL
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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 , Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top
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$$ 38 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 8500 www.hanoispringhotel.com One of the only hotels in the Old Quarter to have a balcony with each room, this new boutique is middle of the range but feels higher. Run by Australian expats and partners with a wealth of experience in the hotel industry, expect great service. Awesome western breakfasts and Vietnamese lunch and dinners. The top floor honeymoon suite has perfect views of St Josephs Cathedral.
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$$$$ K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000, www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI
$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 ww.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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JOSEPH’S HOTEL
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$$$$ 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888
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MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL
$$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake, this boutique hotel is fitted with 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have wi-fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.5 million for a guest room to VND4.5 million for a suite. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI
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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com, www.josephshotel.com Just to the side of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a well-appointed, comfortable boutique hotel. Brightly decorated, the property’s 10 rooms have Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV and a mini bar. Prices start at VND650,000 a night. No smoking except for on the upstairs balconies.
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$$$ 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition
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destination 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth-floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.
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$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental-saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the best of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.
EQUATORIAL
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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Big and businesslike, with seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also boasts the biggest banquet facilities in the city.
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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.
BIKE RENTALS
$$$$ 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Luxury accommodation with a stylish club Lounge boasting panoramic views, as well as the finest meeting and banquet facilities in town – all designed with the savvy traveller in mind. The 21-floor tower includes 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a Presidential Suite. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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LAN LAN HOTEL 2
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PHUNG MOTORBIKE RENTAL & SALES 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 253491 phungmoto@ovi.com Well-maintained motorbikes for hire at reasonable rates, plus servicing and repairs for modern and vintage bikes.
QUAN’S MOTORBIKE & BICYCLE RENTALS 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941 Standard rental shop doing hire by the day and by the month.
VIETNAM MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES 36 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (down alley in between No. 34 & No. 36) Tel: 3904 5049 Bespoke motorbike tours, rental of automatic and manual bikes plus repairs.
VIP BIKE RENTALS 64, Alley 71 Tan Ap, Tay Ho (off Tan Ap Street, close to Sofitel Plaza) Tel: 0914 931390 Bike rentals and repairs. Good reputation. Formerly part of the Blue Dragon Foundation.
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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town
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PARK HYATT
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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1. Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous-looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation and the Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.
BIKE RENTALS
RAMANA HOTEL
MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL
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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid-range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.
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RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE
$$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus one of the best-regarded Chinese restaurants in the city. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first-class facilities topped by an open-air restaurant 23 floors above the city. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com True class on an attractive (and historic) CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asia n restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.
HOI AN & DANANG CUA DAI
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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family-run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air-conditioned rooms and pleasant staff.
FURAMA RESORT & SPA
$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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INTERCONTINENTAL DANANG SUN PENINSULA RESORT
$$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang Tel: 0511 393 8888, info@icdanang.com www.intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed InterContinental Danang is nestled within one of the region’s most exquisite locations. All 197 of the resort’s rooms, suites and beachfront villas are designed to take full advantage of their location and panoramic South China Sea views. Large terraces and shuttered windows elevate private living spaces that draw in the surrounding jungle and crystal bay, and add depth to the already large rooms that start from 70sqm.
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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3. Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A 4-star business class hotel, The Ramana Hotel boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a Business Centre, a well-equipped Fitness Room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club, The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2 km from the city centre and 3 km from the airport.
SHERATON
street, offering a mix of rooms and suites, top-notch facilities, and restaurant cuisine which can match anything in the city. Without a doubt one of the nicest places to stay in the city.
HUY HOANG 1
$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
ANA MANDARA HUE
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$$$$ Thuan An Town, Phu Vang District, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam, Tel: 08 6291 3030 sales1@anamandarahue-resort.com www.hotelcollectionindochine.com Located on Thuan An Beach, a 20-minute drive from central Hue, the five-star Ana Mandara is the only beach resort with pool villas in the area. The property has a total of 78 rooms and villas, including beach pool villas, beach villas, duplex rooms and deluxe rooms in a wide range of styles and decor designed with modern facilities. Offers private rice paddy dinners, beach BBQs and cruises through the local fish farms.
GUESTHOUSE VAN XUAN
$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6561 An excellent option for those on a tight budget, with a comfortable room plus balcony and satellite TV coming in at around VND200,000. An additional bonus is the pleasantness of the staff.
IMPERIAL HUE
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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high-rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million ++ for a deluxe city view room.
LA RESIDENCE
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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la-residence-hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark-stained wood furnishings, this is traditional Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.
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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life-resorts.com Recently refurbished after a recent flood, this award-winning resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.
THE NAM HAI
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VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CUA DAI BEACH CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS
$$$ Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com If you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional-looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood. CREDIT CREDITCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000, www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, the Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, preprogrammed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.
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LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Pull up some (private) beach and relax, at
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL
$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub-VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.
PILGRIMAGE VILLAGE — BOUTIQUE RESORT & SPA CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING
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$$$$ 130 Minh Mang, Hue, Tel: 054 388 5461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com A collection of rustic villas located in the countryside close to Hue and its historical landmarks. Villas range from the traditional Vietnamese pool house to the family bungalow. The boutique, imperial-era Vietnam styled resort also holds cooking classes, makes tour arrangements and
destination MAI CHAU LODGE
has an on-site spa.
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$$$ Tel: 0218 386 8959, www.maichaulodge.com If real comfort is what you want, this is surely the best bet in Mai Chau. The rooms are modern and classy, with room service, sauna and internet connections. The newly built Water Lily Cottage offers a luxury version of the house on stilts. Give a call for exact directions, or you can check their website. CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING GYM GYM
SUN SPA RESORT
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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com This top-end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh, about 150 miles from Hue. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.
MAI CHAU & HOA BINH COMMUNAL GUEST HOUSE 1
$$$ Poom Village, Mai Chau, Tel: 0912 320990 One of the larger stilt houses in Poom Village, the bamboo floor you can expect to sleep on is more comfortable than you might expect, and this house has a pleasant view of a lotus pond. Like at all the other stilt houses here, drink and dance can be arranged.
LA FERME DU COLVERT
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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam-aventure.com This eco-village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in ten houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.
MAI CHAU GUESTHOUSE
At the farthest end of town, Mai Chau Tel: 0218 386 7262 This hotel seems to offer bare-bones amenities, but if you don’t fancy sleeping on the rattan floor of a stilt house, this is a couple good steps above, and the rooms are quite inexpensive. Be prepared for the noise from the karaoke bars which surround the place.
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MAI CHAU NATURE PLACE
House 38, Ban Lac Village, Tel: 3938 1443 www.maichaunatureplace.com A perfect mix between a home-stay experience and comfortable hotel. The private rooms are beautifully quaint while the communal sleeping option is more typical of rural lodges. Both options come with modern and clean bathrooms, traditional home-cooked meals, free bicycles and friendly, in-the-know, staff.
NGOC BACH
$$$$ House 100, Quarter 2, Mai Chau, Tel: 0218 386 7340 If a sturdy bed is what you crave, this might be your answer. The rooms are large and clean, with a working television and shower with hot water. Might not be the Hilton, but for an aching back it’s a step above a bamboo floor and a mat.
NAM DINH & NINH BINH CUC PHUONG GUEST HOUSE
$$$$ 396 Quoc Lo 14, Dong Xoai, Binh Phuoc Tel: 0651 387 9764 Accommodation here is quite basic, but this place offers a good deal in relation to the other places around, if you want a place to sleep before a long day of park touring.
CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK
$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Park accommodation, in modern rooms,
stilt houses and detached bungalows, includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms available at park hq, the park centre, and on the road linking the two.
THANH THUY GUEST HOUSE
$ 128 Le Hong Phong, Ninh Binh, Tel: 030 387 1811 Refurbished in 2004, this has big, clean rooms that are great value for the money. There is an in-house restaurant that will make it redundant to eat elsewhere. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND400,000 for a double deluxe room. The staff speak very good English.
THUY ANH HOTEL
$$ 55A Truong Han Sieu, Ninh Binh. Tel: 030 387 1602 This hotel is slightly more expensive than its neighbors, but the reason is apparent once you walk in. The rooms in the newer building are especially nice and, together with the better than decent restaurant downstairs, this one can make for a good stop over.
NHA TRANG
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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa. Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-HideawayNinh-Van-Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top-drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at VND15 million++ for a beach pool villa.
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com This stylish four-star hotel is centrally located on the main street of the resort city of Nha Trang. Along with 154 modern rooms, each with terrace and a stunning sea view, Novotel Nha Trang offers a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room catering for up to 200 delegates. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandaranhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa-style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING
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$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang). Tel: 058 362 2384 On a secluded – almost deserted – CREDIT CARD
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JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick-up from Nha Trang and the down-to-earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.
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SAO MAI HOTEL
99 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 7412 Try to get a seaview room with private balcony at this friendly and very cheap hotel, which also has a rooftop terrace. Rooms have basic but adequate facilities and it is well located.
February 2013 Word | 79
destination SUNRISE BEACH RESORT
KHACH SAN DIEN BIEN PHU
$$ 849 Duong 7-5, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 382 5103 Pretty much what it sounds like: a Dien Bien Phu guest house. Rooms are made for sleeping and not much else, but at good prices. Cleanliness and comfort are acceptable and about average for this type of establishment.
$$$ 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Luxury boutique hotel in the city centre and right across from the beach is well geared up for the family and business trade, with kids’ room, beach recreation, restaurants offering Japanese, Vietnamese and European cuisine, pool bar, beach bar, sky bar and a Qi spa. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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$$ 4 Duong, 26-8 Rd, Son La, Tel: 022 385 5313 The explanation of the name is a mystery, but with 100 rooms it could probably house a mid-size union. Not the cheapest place in town, but the rooms are extra large and fairly well-kept. If you want to spend some time with satellite television, this is your place. Price range is VND500,000 to VND600,000, breakfast included.
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$ 1 Kim Dong, Cao Bang. Tel: 026 385 3431 A large, government-run hotel popular with tour groups. Rooms are super-sized, with big windows and some even have views. They also take credit cards, which might not be expected here. Room rates are around VND400,000.
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$ 84 Pho Tran Dang Ninh, Lang Son, Tel: 025 387 0349 This place offers basic accommodation at a good price. Don’t expect too much, but as an en route stop-over, Hoang Nguyen will definitely do.
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$ 14 Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang, Tel: 0219 386 1288 The large, comfortable sleeping quarters here may come as a surprise in these parts. But these are the things that have made Huy Hoan so popular. Several tour groups use the place as a stopover, and the staff is adept at fulfilling their needs. CREDIT
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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322 www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim-up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar. One of the better appointed resorts in the area. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com The first all-villa luxury boutique resort in Vietnam, the Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh Ciry and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and a 24-hour butler service, this is one of the most luxurious resorts in the country. Definitely one of the most exclusive. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT
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$ Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang. Tel: 0219 386 3019 One of the first guesthouses you see as you arrive in town, location has made this guesthouse a popular stop off point. The sleeping accommodations are clean and comfortable, enough to enjoy a good night’s sleep and shower.
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$ V159 Vuon Cam, Cao Bang, Tel: 026 385 7026 Thanh Loan is a smaller hotel with more attention paid to the details. Still, expect basic accommodation, but, all said, a good bargain.
THAI NGUYEN HOTEL
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2 Hoang Van Thu, Thai Nguyen, Tel: 0280 385 2803 Your standard two-star establishment, Thai Nguyen is one of the best (and one of the only) choices in the vicinity. It’s quite a large hotel considering its location, so booking shouldn’t be a problem.
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$$$ 2 Hoang Van Thu, Lai Chau. Tel: 0231 387 5829 Offers reasonable guesthouse-style rooms with air conditioning, some of them with balconies. Take a look at the rooms before you rent as the quality may vary.
LA VERANDA
TOPAS ECOLODGE
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VICTORIA SAPA
$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc. Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco-friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around. Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up excellent food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea. CREDIT CARD
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PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI
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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522, www.victoriahotels-asia.com Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from $135 to $250 per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in-room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.
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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow-style resort, which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid-back and simple. And cheap.
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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas-eco-lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco-cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.
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TAM DAO
GREEN WORLD HOTEL
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$ Khu Nhi Mat, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4315 A big new hotel, Green World has 100 CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD
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$ 7 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1243 Despite being in the centre of town, some of the back rooms offer nice views. There is also a good French-style restaurant downstairs, which is what you might expect considering the décor and name. Prices vary, but a room should generally cost around VND400,000. CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD
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$$ 18 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1075 One of the best things about the Bamboo Hotel is the view, so make sure you check out the room first – some are better than others. There is aircon if needed, but you might want to ask for extra blankets in winter, in spite of electric heaters. Rooms here are between VND700,000 and VND1 million a night. The premium here is on the views. CREDIT CARD
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HMONG MOUNTAIN RETREAT
$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7440 Much more than its name suggests, with beautiful landscaped tropical gardens leading onto a stretch of pristine beach and an outdoor bar, well-positioned to make the best of the scenery. Has a mix of comfortable rooms and bungalows, and has recently done some
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$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773 982888 / 3823 7645 (Sales office) www.laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, La Veranda has beautifully-designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all-natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.
THE SAILING CLUB
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$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla-resort.com Open since Nov. 2008, this 37-bungalow resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first-class spa treatment and a mediterranean-themed restaurant.
CHEN LA RESORT AND SPA
CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE
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$$ 18 Phang Xi Pan, Sapa. Tel: 020 6505 228 www.saparooms.com Located in the heart of Sapa town this simple but comfortable boutique hotel occupies an unprecedented corner location overlooking the terraced valleys of Sapa and not far from the energy of the local market. Rooms are decorated with antique hardwood furniture and contemporary artwork from local artists with touches of ethnic minority culture.
$$$ Tel: 062 743 237, www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach, with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and dining options. CREDIT CARDCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING
HUYEN TRAN GUEST HOUSE
80 | Word February 2013
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the surroundings of the Muong Hoa Valley.
BUSINESS
PHU QUOC
RESTO-BAR SWIMMING SMOKING POOL SMOKING BUSINESS GYM SWIMMING GYM POOLSWIMMING BUSINESS POOL
PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA
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PHAN THIET / MUI NE
57D Thanh Tam, Lang Son. Tel: 025 371 0479 Although it may be a bit hard to communicate with the staff if you’re Vietnamese isn’t up to snuff, they are eager to help. The rooms are exceptionally nice for the area.
SAO MAI HOTEL
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$ 53 Duong 26 – 8, Son La, Tel: 022 385 8798 Sunrise makes for a decent stay for those travelling between Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu. In relation to the other hotels on the road, the rooms are very clean and the staff helpful. A night here will run around VND400,000.
HOANG SON HAI
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refurbishment. Offers quad-biking, kitesurfing, paragliding and, of course, sailing.
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$$ 25 Pho 1, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 381 0043 This Soviet-era hotel has a unique style that makes it one of the most visited. So, despite its size, it may be a good idea to book in advance. There’s a charge for the swimming pool, even if you’re staying there. But, hey, there’s a pool. The rooms are better than average and have satellite TV.
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MUONG THANH HOTEL
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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. Onsite seafood restaurant and bar.
BANG GIANG HOTEL
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DON’S RESTAURANT 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2828 Have two Vietnamese bicycles for rent and well as a tandem. Great lake-side location. Pricey.
MR. TRUNG No. 10, Ngo 175 Hong Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 0903 232888 A large number of old mountain bikes for rent. Located close to Long Bien Bridge. Good repair service.
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$$ Cat Cat Road. Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces. CREDIT CARD
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$ Km 6 Sapa, Ban Ho Road Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: 020 3872 130 www.hmongmountainretreat.com A large stilt house, five clay-clad bungalows and one 70-year-old Hmong House is what waits for you amid the rolling hills of Lao Cai, 6km outside of Sapa. The eco-resort’s team are all local and will help you enjoy
QUAN'S MOTORBIKE & BICYCLE RENTALS 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941 Well-maintained bicycles and motorbikes for rent. Located in the Old Quarter close to Hoan Kiem Lake.
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 8246 Well-maintained selection of bicycles for hire at the best prices in town, plus guided tours and all services you might need went to rent a bicycle. Rental available by day, week or month.
out & about
rooms ranging in price from VND400,000 to VND600,000 a night. Because of its height, the top rooms have nice views of the town and surroundings. There is a restaurant and bar with billiards, and internet in the lobby.
HANG KHONG HOTEL
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$ Khu I Thi, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4282 Just your basic hotel, but if what you want is a bed and satellite television, this is your place. Can’t beat the price at around VND200,000. Beware, though, prices are subject to change. CREDIT CARD
MELA HOTEL CREDIT
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$$ Thi Tran, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4321 Probably the prime place to stay in Tam Dao, the Mela has a swimming pool that might come in handy if you’re in the mountains to escape the heat of Hanoi summer. Rooms are comfortable and clean, with two double beds and balcony. The staff can assist if you want to explore the natural surroundings. Prices between VND800,000 and VND1.6 million. CREDIT CARD CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD CARD
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LISTINGS
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
$ Khu 1 Thi, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4208 Another one of the newer hotels in Tam Dao, Hang Khong caters mainly to Vietnamese tourists. But the price is right, hovering around VND500,000. Many of the rooms have balconies, but all have comfortable beds and hot showers. CREDIT CARD
OUT & ABOUT
parks, waterfalls and spectacular scenery are all part of the mix, with part of the proceeds going to a number of responsible tourism initiatives.
BUSINESS BUSINESS
TRAVEL SERVICES ASIAN TRAVEL MATE
7 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 0615; 21 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 3449; Crowne Plaza, 36 Le Duc Tho, Tu Liem Tel: 6265 4558 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, and reservations throughout Indochina. Have daily departure tours available in Saigon, Hue and Hanoi.
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi Tel: (84-4) 3 828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the time-consuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.
80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.
BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 081 CAFES 083 RESTAURANTS — FRENCH 084 RESTAURANTS — INDIAN 084 RESTAURANTS — INTERNATIONAL 085 RESTAURANTS — ITALIAN 091 RESTAURANTS — JAPANESE & KOREAN 087
HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM
57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam's people, cuisine, history and culture.
SYRENA CRUISES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.
17 COWBOYS+ AC AC
26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 2150 9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 5555 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.
Tel: 01282 273717 www.sapasisters.webs.com The best trekking guides in Sapa showing you the key spots with the guarantee of an unforgettable experience. Sapa Sisters aims to empower young H’Mong women and give them fair pay for their skilled services. Read their reviews on Trip Advisor..
VIETNAM IN FOCUS
AC
info@vietnaminfocus.com vietnaminfocus.com A photography tour company based in Hanoi, organising workshops and tours in the capital, as well as photographic adventures across northern Vietnam. Tour leader Colm Pierce's pictures have featured in numerous publications worldwide, such as The Guardian (UK), Le Figaro (France) and LA Times (US). Check out the website forinfo on upcoming workshops and photography tours. AC
FREEWHEELIN TOURS
2nd floor, 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2743 www.freewheelin-tours.com Responsible travel tourism company offering intimate, bespoke tours that give customers a more “authentic” taste of Vietnam. Motorbike journeys, homestays, visits to ethnic minority villages, national AC
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MUSIC HALL/LONG BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 6822 www.seventeencowboys.com 5pm to 12am Cowgirls, lasers, belly dancing and Filipino bands who never shy away from a good Guns N' Roses cover. Drinks are a little pricey, but part of the money is going to the show. Expect a lively atmosphere and the band will take requests, but 1980s rock tunes are favoured.
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place for a sundowner or a morning coffee. Eclectic and like nothing else in Hanoi.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
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LOUNGE BAR 61A Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Located on the upstairs portion of Mix III lounge and café, Blue Note features dimly lit, blue lighting and a balcony area that overlooks the streets of the Old Quarter. The interior is decorated with elegant red, velvet chairs and photographs of vintage jazz artists along the walls—giving the place a vintage, musical feel to accompany your conversations. The bar is a promising small venue, equipped with a small stage and piano.
CLASSIC FRENCH Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 7am to 10pm Set up like a traditional colonial-era bar space with dark wooden plank flooring, bamboo roofing, wicker chairs and handheld fan crafted ceiling fans, both during the day and at night there is a relaxed, timeless ambience here. The drinks focus here is on Martini-based and classic cocktails with a huge wine list and aged spirits also making an appearance. Also a great place for a morning or afternoon coffee.
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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 032829 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.
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MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven. AC
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RETRO CAFÉ BAR 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 9134 haimtc@gmail.com 8am to midnight This bar is every bit as quirky as the Czech moped it’s named after. Inside every surface is festooned with a medley of objects ranging from gramaphones to retro TVs. The rooftop terrace is an awesome
THE SAPA SISTERS
EXOTISSIMO
visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings
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CHIME BAR
Level 1, Sheraton Hanoi Hotel K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000 restaurant.hanoi@sheraton.com sheraton.com/hanoi Chime bar is the perfect spot for a refreshing glass of wine and a bite to eat. Offering a wide selection of tapas dishes in a lounge atmosphere, this is a great space to unwind, while listening to some soothing jazz to wash your blues away.
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February 2013 Word | 81
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POOL HALL / LIVE MUSIC / CLUB 55 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 1788 8am to midnight A potential gem in the heart of the Old Quarter. While it’s themed to the Easy Rider vibe out front, this huge two-storey venue is a jack of all trades – it has a bar, live music stage, pool tables, hookahs, a VIP room and a night club with a decent sound set up. Ideal for private functions and party promoters. Club stays open till late.
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DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 5333 6087 www.linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.
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82 | Word February 2013
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LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem 10am to late In the same building as the old Bucket Bar, Hair of the Dog, the first floor offers a large drinking space, graphic artwork, sidewalk seating and a dance floor. Up the spiral staircase, there’s the late-night
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ELECTRO GRUNGE CLUB 51 / 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem 6pm to late Hanoi's favourite after hours dancehall/ trance den. Throw shapes on either of the two floors that have regular DJs while dancing to rapacious electronic beats or enjoy the Red River's breeze and snack on
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BOTTLE BASED DANCE CLUB 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0915 381180. qbuphanoi@gmail.com A glitzy, spacious basement club tucked away in the corner where Luong Ngoc Quyen meets Hang Giay. It’s a laser, mirrors and disco ball affair with high tables, hostesses, bottles of whiskey and a DJ — usually playing a mixture of trance and house. Runs a number of spirits offers on different days of the week. Ask for details.
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LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho Tay, Tay Ho Monday to Friday, 2pm to 11.30pm. Weekends open from 11am Located on the lakeside road just below Xuan Dieu and close to the entrance to The Sheraton, this quiet, casual pub offers up a variety of beer, wine and mixed drinks, juice, tea, Nespresso coffee and espresso and milkshakes, all with a nice view of West Lake. Non-smoking indoors, Red River Tea Room is a welcome addition to the area.
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LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.
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CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Lasers, pulsating trance, bottle service and nightly model shows. This venue is largely filled with flashy Vietnamese youngsters or older business types flashing their wads. Bottle service is a must, which is a little pricey, so if you ain't got enough money then you probably won't be sticking around to see the honeys.
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EUROPEAN BREW HALL 10 Nguyen Bieu, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 2288 Modeled after a brewery, bar and bowling alley in the Czech Republic, Pilsner Urquell has an old Europe feel — particularly in the private rooms lined with glass beer mugs, thick cuts of dark wood furniture and semi-circular booths. With the UNmeeting-of-a-menu, customers can choose from goose dishes, noodles, fried apples, an assortment of cheeses and several other options. Perfect location for big gatherings.
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GAMING LOUNGE 104 Bach Dang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0621 0212 huongnmd@gmail.com 9am to midnight If you’re looking for a more active night out, this gaming lounge has it all. White leather sofas, and plasma screens hooked up to Xbox 360 Kinect, Playstation 3 Move etc and more. Challenge your friends to games while enjoying a western-style food menu and a decent selection of beverages. When you get a little too competitive, you can cool down in the lounge area and gear up for your next big win.
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HOTEL BAR Lobby Level, Pullman Hanoi, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3733 0808 www.pullmanhotels.com 7am to midnight Situated in the heart of the lobby, Mint Bar is perfect for a relaxing, convivial experience any time of the day. A tapasinspired menu along with fresh fruit juice, local and imported beers are available at all times while wines by the glass or by the bottle are available from the Vinoteca by Pullman. Relax with a coffee or tea from the property’s extensive selection.
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FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 lafeeverte@hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am Meaning the green fairy — an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe which was drunk extensively in colonial Vietnam — understated lighting, a laidback lounge atmosphere, a good music selection and ultra-contemporary interior design make up the mix at this downstairs bar in Hotel de l’Opera. Expect a good selection of creative cocktails and an extensive wine list. Opens late with a DJ taking to the decks on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
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LAID-BACK FIX 2 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0917 897630 nemoover@gmail.com A curving neon sign marks the small entrance to May Pub, which stands on the corner of Nam Ngu and Phan Boi Chau. The pub hosts a laid-back bar atmosphere with old Hollywood photographs, free billiards and darts and low-key live music. The menu combines traditional cocktails with offerings like Russian string cheese — a late-night brew and dairy fix. Wednesday and Friday nights are Buy One Get One Free for ladies.
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a kebab as you catch up with all of the city's regular night owls. The terrace out back has great views of Long Bien Bridge at night.
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IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2212 6821 www.irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.
ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Owned by the people behind Face Club, the low, LED-lit venue has the feel of a VIP room situated in a larger club, only it's not. While techno and trance are the genre's of choice spun in the establishment by live DJs, patrons treat the space more like a lounge than a dancehall and typically order bottle service and cocktails. One of the Ta Hien mainstays.
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LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6377 www.sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.
DANCEHALL/BAR 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem 5pm to late Previously known as Dracula Bar, this watering hole tucked upstairs behind a hotel is around the corner from Ta Hien. A double-sided bar splits up a pool table space, lounge area and dance floor. The smoke machine can be a bit much, but the music is a decent mix of pop and house. Never crowded and open late, free shots are given out every hour on the hour.
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weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.
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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 9B Bao Khanh, Kiem Tel: 0914 339439 lpcafe@yahoo.com.vn 9am to late ++ This quirky bar and living room gets busiHALF MAN HALF NOODLE + + LATE DIVE BAR est in the later hours. Down in the bar, 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem plasma screens and an iPod station mix Tel: 3926 1943 with a dance floor and comically named 3pm to late cocktails. Upstairs, there’s a cushioned Often a bit dark and somewhat gloomy, living room — a pleasant space with a low “The Noodle” is still a hit with long term ceiling and shisha. Throw in a dartboard, residents. With its all-hour eating options — “sell and swap” book shelves, Jenga and ranging from cheese toasties and pizzas to some tasty toasted sandwiches, and it can grilled cod and bun cha — and its popular be hours of fun. The dried buffalo “nosh” happy hour, this Old Quarter old-timer is still from Tay Bac in the north is a must. up there with the options. Between 11pm and 12.30am, local beers go for VND15,000 ++ MAO’S RED LOUNGE and mixers go for VND30,000. Friendly staff LOUNGE AND BAR and talkative patrons included. 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 3104 ++ HANOI ROCK CITY + 5am to 2am LIVE MUSIC VENUE One of the few staple bars in the city that 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho hosts an equal number of ex-pats, locals Tel: 01887 487 426 and tourists. With cheap drinks, funky, www.hanoirockcity.com slightly ethnic decor and one of the most 5pm to midnight amiable owners in town, Mao's is always With a downstairs, English-style pub a great place to start off or finish the garden area and an upstairs space night. Sing-a-longs and dancing welcome dedicated to live music and live at one of the most popular drinking spots production, Hanoi Rock City is the only on Ta Hien. venue in the capital of its kind. Has
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bar and shisha lounge complete with beanbags. Drawing in a mix of expats, backpackers and locals, when the bars across the street shut down, the mayhem continues in ‘The Dog’.
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DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem 93 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 4926 2177 11am — late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
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REGGAE CHILLOUT BAR 2 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem www.rootsbar-hanoi.blogspot.com 5pm to late With a reggae theme, the French-run Roots stays open late playing African and Caribbean music with some salsa thrown in for good measure. Laid back vibes. A good, late-night, Old Quarter option set on a first floor. The entrance is next to the Irish Wolfhound.
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HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2269 1107 Fronted by the affable Sean, and with Guinness, Jameson’s and a surprising amount of draught beer flowing from the taps, since its inauguration the tiny Spy Bar has managed to create a dedicated following despite its tiny size. With pictures of spies dotting the wall (both Vietnamese and international) and food delivery available from three restaurants, this is a great place to chill and shoot some well-deserved, Chuong Duong Bridge breeze.
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ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday While there are a few ‘rooftop bars’ in the capital, few hold a candle to the view on offer at the Summit Lounge. With a chilled but lively ambience, top shelf cocktails, and a Southeast Asian fusion bar menu, the Summit Lounge is a great place to pitch yourself above the madness and peer down at the chaos below in peace. Sunsets are particularly special.
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+ ++ +charm in old quarter. Lining the walls, TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL old world drawings line the walls floor to SPORTS BAR/GRILL ceiling. They serve a variety of teas and 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho coffee, as well as many jars of pickled Tel: 6675 9838 looking vegetables and less identifiable www.tracyspub.com things. Grab a seat on the low wooden 11am to 12am tables and take advantage of their This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetu- strong Wi-fi. ally crowded with regulars drinking out ++ CHILL OUT CAFE + front on plastic stools. Notorious for its TEEN SCENE CAFÉ mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh 89A Ly Nam De, Ba Dinh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their Tel: 3223 3246 draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest 9am to 10pm draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a This hangout spot is styled for locals in frosted mug. For those missing their dose their teeny-bop years and early twenties. of North American sports, they play all The décor is kitschy and cozy, there is day via satellite on two plasmas. even a piano, used occasionally in live music shows. They serve sweet drinks ++ TUNNEL BAR+ at a reasonable price along with lots of INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH treats like brownies in a variety of new11B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem wave flavors. Tel: 0936 063303 www.tunnel-bar-hanoi.com ++ + CIAO CAFÉ 4pm to late RESTO LOUNGE Slim but stylish two-storey bar located 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1494 just at the bend on Bao Khanh. The friend- 7am to 11pm ly staff can make a range of well-made A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan and colourful cocktails. Frequent DJ nights Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries and parties are commonplace at this it’s hand with a variety of different western watering hole that caters to both foreign dishes at reasonable prices, especially conand Vietnamese. Does an excellent happy sidering the location. Loaded with booths hour with specials on Ricard. and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash + ++ WINE’S CORNER a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people WINE AND CIGAR LOUNGE watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too. 2 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3477 COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF 9am to 1am INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE The ambience at the relaxed wine bar 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 4240 near the Metropole screams red wine — www.coffeebean.com the walls are painted a warm yellow, the 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi exposed brick adds a touch of cool and coffee scene has opened a little closer the wine barrels-turned-tables are tasteto town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. ful. Too bad it’s often awkwardly empty. Famous for the exceptional quality of the Features fine wines, cigars and Vietnamcoffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a ese and international snacks. multilevel, indoor/outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office CAFES feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake. ++ ALIGN 3D POPULAR VIETNAMESE ++ CONG CAPHE 1 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 10A Khuc Hao, Ba Dinh LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 7am to 11pm LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE Popular with young Vietnamese, the 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Align cafes are always busy. The younger Bien Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 6686 0344 venue on Khuc Hao is hidden down a 8am to 10pm bamboo alley and has three outdoor With a kitsch, communist-driven theme seating areas, one of which makes you feel like you’re sat under a waterfall. The saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy other two are on the roof, and from the expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with middle of this embassy-type street, the beans from the Central Highlands, knock sound of motorbikes is replaced with back one of the many different types of tea tweeting birds. 3D pictures on the walls available or sip on freshly squeezed juice of each floor take you back to the old from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest city, before KFC and Parkson. Even to cafes on 'cafe street'. If you like pre-doi moi times before the French. nostalgia, here is the place to go. And if you like more space and an outdoor terrace, hit ++ + AVALON CAFÉ Cong Caphe take two on Dien Bien Phu. LAKE VIEW LOUNGE 73 Cau Go; 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem ++ + ESPRESSAMENTE ILLY Tel: 3926 0801 ITALIAN COFFEE www.avaloncafelounge.com 75 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem 7am to 11.30pm Tel: 3935 2065 Popular for its views of Hoan Kiem Lake, 8am to 11pm this lounge and bar is always busy. With International standard, Italian-style comfy seating and balconies, the lounge espresso drinks are the name of the game and sky garden offer a pleasant escape at this undeniably chic chain coffee shop. from city-centre chaos. The smoothies Boasting a wide range of drinks, including are creamy and renditions of popular spirit coffees with tequila, and a small sestreet dishes are spot on. Elsewhere in lection of pastries and panini sandwiches, the eclectic menu, pizzas and pastas the café’s clientele is a mix of tourists and cost around VND100,000 and steak in red Vietnamese who are tired of ca phe nau wine sauce goes for VND179,000. Classic da. It is connected to a tour agency and in pop instrumentals play by day, and come the central hub of the Old Quarter. night, the chilled vibe is tainted slightly with electro pop. + HAPRO CAFÉ CAFÉ / RESTAURANT + + CAFÉ LAM 6th floor, 38-40 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 91 Nguyen Huu Huan Tel: 3826 7984 Tel: 3824 5940 7.30am to 11pm Always busy, the café has traditional Take the dilapidated elevator to the 6th AC
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12 Truong Han Sieu, Ba Trieu Leftfield, Indochine, contemporary and artsy, all thrown into one, the latest incarnation of Tadioto rolls together café, bar and gallery. Always with an attractive ambience and friendly service, a garden out back adds a nice touch to the space inside.
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MEET-UP SPOT 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6917 www.taytap.com 4pm to late Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.
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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 3050 6pm to 5am This small and personal one-and-a-half floor bar starts to get busy at around 11pm and is popular with expats of all nationalities, despite having a French flavour. Run by the indomitable Thanh and once called Le Maquis, the Tet Bar these days has a slightly cluttered feel to it, but nonetheless continues to pull in the punters. Open very, very late. AC
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LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 1874 8am to midnight A stone's throw from Ta Hien, this barcum-lounge-cum-restaurant has all of the atmosphere present in bars scattered throughout the Old Quarter without being a dive. Enjoy a mixed drink, tacos or a Vietnamese staple starter with the occasional live DJ breaking out classic funk, soul and hip hop in the comfortable furnishings or on the back patio.
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floor and emerge onto a balcony with one of the best views of Hoan Kiem. The big draw to this café is the vantage point — the drinks are a secondary concern, though there is about every coffee and juice concoction known to mankind on the menu and plenty of yoghurt and smoothie options too. Graze on French fries, sandwiches, salads and typical Vietnamese rice plates. Perfect for watching the city wake up or catching a sunset.
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CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 6 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0444 www.highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm As with any chain that attempts selfreplication, there is a tried and tested formula. At Highlands it is comfortable seating, good Wi-Fi, unobtrusive music and a mid-range, generic atmosphere. It works, too. The Starbucks of Vietnam, a French-influenced, international and pan-Asian food menu sits alongside the teas, coffee and cakes. Has other locations at 49 Hai Ba Trung, The Opera House, The Syrena Centre, Pacific Place and more.
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COFFEE/BAKERY 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 33 88 54 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6071 www.joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little ++ + slice of “home” to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2010 and is looking to open in Ho Chi Minh City in 2011. Has a play area for kids up in the West Lake café and bakery.
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PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 0216 7am – 8pm A must-go-to place on a lazy day, Mr Chi’s long-standing patisserie is somewhat famous for its honest, home-cooked food, no frills-but-relaxing environment and sour yoghurt fit for celebrities — Catherine Deneuve ate here daily during her time shooting Indochine. Hot fresh milk, exclusive coffee, awesome croque madames and local dishes, too. Replace WiFi with a book and aircon with ceiling fans; eat in, take away, the pastries are great and the price is always right.
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CONTEMPORARY / VIETNAMESE 6 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 5859 7.30am to 10pm This tall, narrow lounge café with rooftop seating is a quintessential Hanoi spot. The decoration is bright and casual and the all-day menu has food from both the east and the west. Draw with crayons on brown paper covering the tables as you while away the hours over coffee or cocktails, and take in the view of St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Has some interesting food options including spinach fried rice along with old standbys like tuna salad sandwiches and coconut chicken curry. No MSG is used here.
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QUIRKY CAFE 26 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3243 2120 www.lovechocolatecafe.com 10am to 10pm, Closed Sundays Bathed in pink and decorated to mimic a French salon, Love Chocolate Cafe carries decadent chocolate desserts like mocha lava cake, espresso pepper brownies and
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tons of cookies. It doesn’t end there, hot chocolates, shakes and even coffee blends like minty java are on the menu. The sign out front reads, “All you chocoholics, We are open!”. A rare but terrific find in Hanoi.
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CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 6334 moca@netnam.vn 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don't let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down French-styled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.
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ROOFTOP CAFE 4 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1949 www.marilyncoffee.com Considering the amount of flat rooftops in this city, it’s a crime that most go under utilized. However, the top floor of Chim Yen boutique and Marilyn Cafe is home to one of the more pleasant spaces in the Old Quarter. With a great, stone’s-throwview of St Joseph’s cathedral, food and beverages, this spot can turn a temperate afternoon into something a bit more special.
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CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger café-cum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
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CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning
84 | Word February 2013
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INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 2959 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3993 1399 info@foodshop45.com 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.
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10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4509 labadiane.hanoi@yahoo.fr 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night. A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you
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CASUAL FRENCH FUSION 59A Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3941 1959 A well-appointed lounge bar downstairs and a more typical bistro on the first floor, this Vietnamese-run French eatery is known for is extensive wine list and excellent, but well-priced fusion lunches. The work of French-trained sommelier Hai Ha, Le Paul Conti has so far proved quite a hit. A great addition to the capital.
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Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm Classic French Indochine décor and subtle lighting give the Sofitel Metropole Legend’s signature restaurant an elegance rarely found in Vietnam’s capital. The a la carte menu pits classic French cuisine against contemporary Vietnamese cooking with dishes like Nha Trang lobster with saffron pot au feu, the pan fried veal tenderloin on a lemongrass skewer and the calisson parfait marinated with orange, pomelo and lemon balm. Has an extensive wine list.
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48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina+++ styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.
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Picomall, 229 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: 6276 1004 www.coffeebean.com 8.30am to 9.30pm Known for the quality of its coffee and tea, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf has landed in Hanoi — in the form of an air-con, western-style drinking space in Hanoi’s newest shopping mall. The five first coffee shops in Vietnam started in Ho Chi Minh City, and this the first one in the capital. Hanoians are finally able to taste the beverages already quenching the thirst in 20 countries across the planet. New stores to open on West Lake soon. 26 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 2539 8am – 10am This new café, which fills a coffee-shop-
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FRENCH BISTRO 10 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1327 www.cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.
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SANDWICH SHOP/CAFÉ 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au Trieu) 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3928 7715 www.thecartfood.com 7:30am – 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets, with a new outlet on Nghi Tam, which is more like the big-windowed coffee shops you expect to see in Europe. The Cart serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.
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19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 6317 www.verticale-hanoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese++ + French fusion cuisine.
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PAVEMENT / VIETNAMESE 27 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Walk by this old café and you’ll see why it’s favoured by the locals. Grab a stool on the sidewalk to enjoy the lemon-y tea and sunflower seeds, or a strong drip coffee and people watching. AC AC ACWIFI WIFIWIFIWIFI SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 DELIVERY DELIVERY HAPPY 2 2 HAPPY HOUR 2 HAPPY HOUR HAPPY HOUR LIVE HOUR MUSIC LIVELIVE MUSIC LIVE MUSIC LIVE MUSIC MUSIC LIVELIVE MUSIC LIVE MUSIC MUSIC DJ
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6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.
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44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 8246 www.thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment. Eclectic? Not a chance!
FRENCH DELI 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 9433 8am to 11pm Situated on Hanoi’s not-so-serene ‘Pub Street’, Stop sponges up the surrounding atmosphere, which gives the French delicatessen a relaxed vibe that avoids pretension. The spot specializes in serving a mixture of western, French and Vietnamese fare, along with coffee, shakes and juice. The venue is more affordable then it’s sister location upstairs, Café de Arts, and is prime real estate to nibble on some quiche and quaff a juice on a sunny day.
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MUSIC CAFE 25 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 061982 panaceacafe@yahoo.com 8am to late Slightly rough around the edges and with an artsy vibe, this is nonetheless a place that welcomes all comers. There’s live music four nights a week (Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat), but it’s not uncommon to find someone strumming away at the piano here at any time of the day. Friendly staff, good coffee, juices and cold beers.
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TRADITIONAL TEA ROOM 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 01887 785977 ochaoteahouse@gmail.com 8am to 10pm A stylish, two-storey traditional but contemporary tea house with great views of West Lake. Specialises in “precious” Vietnamese tea from the northern hills, handpicked by ethnic minority tribes and presented to the public by a passionate French owner. Well worth your time hanging out here on a lazy day.
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ITALIAN CAFE 36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1476 www.segafredo.com.vn 7am to 11pm Names of some of the world's greatest cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of the best espresso-based coffee in town. Red and white decor, lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an open plan space make up the mix. Besides the caffeine-based drinks, also does granita, teas, shakes and modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.
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as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced three-course lunch menu.
shaped gap in the market for this area, has the feel of half green house, half designconscious doll house, and is a welcome alternative for when your favourite hang out begins to get samey. Focusing on fresh ingredients to suit the fresh design, the Doll House also has a garden terrace, and is open for party bookings and private events. Enter through the shop out front.
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78 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5995 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm India Palace is the fourth member of owner Ravi Kumar’s family of restaurants which includes Tandoor. The menu takes the cuisine of North India and combines it with a South Indian-inspired menu, to create a pan-Indian menu appealing to all. Occupying a large four-storey villa
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out & about with unobstructed views of West Lake at the front, the décor here is traditional yet contemporary Indian. The fourth floor with sweeping views over West Lake is given up to Dakshin, a vegetarian restaurant selling mainly South Indian fare.
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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 11 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5657 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Recently relocated, Khazaana is one of the two oldest Indian restaurants in Hanoi. The menu encompasses the entire sub-continent, complete with heavier chicken korma and northern curry dishes alongside lighter southern dosas and uttappams. The venue is homey albeit harsh, but with quintessential masala tea, naan and raita to round out the meal, the focus here is on the food and filling your belly… or overfilling, as is more likely the case. All cuisine here is halal.
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47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2400 www.namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery
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STREETSIDE FOOD STOP AND RESTAURANT 12 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6659 8598 Tasty Turkish Vietnamese dining with Nha Tho’s chiming bells accompanying your meal. Its outdoor blackboard menu advertises Kebab possibilities such as lamb, chicken, pork, and even ostrich. Choose from eating in the street or take a few steps inside, through the bustling kitchen, and into the comfortable upstairs lounge seating area. Scrumptious and affordable food, with Kebab’s starting at VND 30,000.
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CANTONESE/DIM SUM 317 Kim Ma, Dong Da Tel: 3846 1327 9am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm One of the most underrated Chinese restaurants in the city, the place itself is not much to look at, but they serve above average dim sum. A variety of other Cantonese style dishes including noodle soup and rice dishes are on offer here, all at very affordable prices.
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CUPCAKE SERVICE Tel: 01219 499523 mia@westlakecupcake.net The cupcake obsession has caught on. A new baking project by Westlake’s infamous Anna and Mia brings custom cupcakes cooked to order to your front door. Offering a variety of cupcakes and butter cream frostings, check out their speciality flavours like New York cheesecake, brown eyed girl and creative monthly specials. Are you drooling yet? Although a delivery only outlet, the cupcakes are available for purchase at Daluva and Oasis.
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24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 5359 tandoor@hn.vnn.vn 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indian-food enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.
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BUDGET CAFÉ 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm Service at this “slow food café” is seriously snail paced, but that is part of the charm of this modest eatery with only a few tables and small stools. Popular as a weekend hangover mainstay for the greasy eggs with cheese, the café is best known for its not-quite Mexican food. But hey, when there’s guacamole, salsa fresca, beans and cheese, what can go wrong? Be sure to try the fresh juices, like the super-booster with beetroot, and the coffee with whipped egg.
FRY (FRESH. REAL. YUMMY)
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OLD TOWN CHIP JOINT 24 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem A quality food stop with a clean, smart,
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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1155 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5322 www.alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm With a real ‘diner’ kind of feel, Al Fresco’s serves up munchies-busting Aussie inspired food from a number of locations across the city including their original restaurant at 23L Hai Ba Trung. Topping the menu are the jumbo ribs at VND395,000, with generous helpings of pizzas, pastas, burgers, Tex-Mex, soups and salads going for less. The set business lunch is three courses for VND155,000. See the website for delivery numbers and don’t forget to ask for delivery deals. Have an efficient delivery service, but make sure you ask for knives and forks.
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OPEN AIR EATING 41, Ngo 76, An Duong, Tay Ho Tel: 0915 085305 Though it’s a bit far from the centre, the expansive wooded area, chilled out atmosphere and good food makes it worth a visit. The menu is well equipped to satisfy cravings for fish and hearty meat dishes. If you’re in a DIY mood, you can Grill Yourself a plate of meat and seafood or choose from the gourmet selection of strip loin, ostrich or salmon to throw on the tabletop grills. Regularly holds live music events.
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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE Ngo 40, Nha 7A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Despite a two-storey indoor dining space, + Kitchen is all about its leafy, terracottatiled terrace out front, a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothiestyle drinks. Has amiable know-your-name staff and a good delivery service.
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RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 0337 www.koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
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IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 9052 lasalsa@fpt.vn 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanishthemed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and fantastic first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Western staff speak English and French.
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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21 – 23 Hang Gai Street, Hoan Kiem Dist Tel: 3828 5333 littlehanoi@orientalstars.com.vn 7:30am — 11:00pm A tourist hotspot and one for locals, too, Little Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake has been going sturdy since 1994 — mainly for its central location, range of sandwiches, pastas and Vietnamese cuisine. Baguettes go from VND95,000 and mango salads VND99,000, not to mention the coffee at around VND50,000, wines and fresh fruit juices. With Indochina-inspired art on the walls and jazz in the background, Little Hanoi is a little escape from the chaos of the central lake. ++ ACAC
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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3098 tmbhanoi@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Located in the grounds of the Fine Arts Museum, this classy restaurant and wine bar mixes attractive décor with western cuisine, all cooked up by a New Zealand-trained Vietnamese chef. Famed for its salads, good cuts of steak, lamb shank and its various pasta fare, the menu here also incorporates a number of well-known Vietnamese dishes.
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88 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3710 0389 10am to 11pm. Closed Monday Family-run Moroccan restaurant in a charming terrace-fronted house close to the start of Xuan Dieu. Focus of cuisine is on authentic couscous, tagines and kebab dishes made with a mixture of local and imported ingredients, all cooked up by a Moroccan chef. Uses Halal meat.
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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.
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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 4448 www.hoasuaschool.com Open from 7am to 10pm This restaurant, which schools and employs disadvantaged youths, has been popular for 11 years — as a grand villa and courtyard setting tucked away in the corner of Ha Hoi. Popular with business types, tourists and expats alike, who enjoy good food while supporting a good cause, mains like cha ca and steaks go for VND99,000 and VND289,000 respectively, and there are six set menus available which take in Vietnamese, French and Italian cuisine. AC
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CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT First Floor, 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel : 3926 0580 Located in the upstairs portion of its sister restaurant, Tamarind, Spice is an impressive extension to the Indian food choices in the city, providing quality non-vegetarian dishes and a comfortable seating area. Includes lounge seating and a colourful dining area with thoughtful artwork and photographs along its walls. Spice is a tropical, artistic, cultural, and attractive addition to the Old Quarter’s dining options. Specializes in seafood and classic Indian dishes.
TANDOOR
modern feel in the heart of Old Quarter that specializes in serving their signature Belgian fries to accompany their tasty, slider-sized burgers. Choose from an array of preparations ranging from beerbattered to garlic-fried with a variety of 12 different dipping sauces. If you’re craving a savoury lunch place, stop by FRY to get your fix.
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TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 223966 provechohanoi@gmail.com The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, self-styled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.
SPOON
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ASIAN FUSION 15-17 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 5636 6.30am to 10pm An extension of Soul furniture and lifestyle store, the restaurant and lounge bar at Spoon serves up a fusion menu in a setting that screams homeliness and style. Asian dishes, seafood and steaks are among the go-to menu choices. Attentive and competent staff top it all off in this chic restolounge.
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CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0580 tamarind_cafe@yahoo.com 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat, Tamarind features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Breakfast is served all day and with Asian favourites, like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle
February 2013 Word | 85
out & about LUALA CAFE
salad, along with some falafel and western influences, vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.
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FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3726 4782 www.thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.
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FUSION FARE / WINE 10 Truong Han Sieu. Tel: 6270 2611 hoangcuongfb@gmail.com The House, once Annie’s Corner, is one of the latest restaurants to occupy an old French building in the quiet streets nestled between Ba Trieu and Quang Trung. It serves Vietnamese food but with international twists. The affordable and eclectic menu ranges from local tenderloin steak to lemongrass tuna salads with a decent wine list and an ideal bring-yourown VND100,000 corkage fee per bottle of wine.
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WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 9916 www.greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm Sophisticated restaurant set inside an Old Quarter boutique hotel. Formerly a school, and now also on Cat Ba Island, Green Mango serves Vietnamese and western food, ranging from sandwiches and pasta to lamb chops and VND700,000 Angus rib-eyes. Buy-one-get-one-free deals on cocktails and beers every day from 4pm to 6pm and Lavazza coffee at all hours. With comfy seats and a soft setting, the function room at the back often hosts charity events and semi-formal get-togethers.
JASPA’S
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INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 8325 www.alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa's is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.
LE PETITE BRUXELLES
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BELGIAN / EUROPEAN 1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1769 10 Alley 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 5853 www.le-petit-bruxelles.com 10am to 10pm An airy and spacious long-running Belgian-themed eatery with a location by the cathedral and a second out in West Lake. Although this is not the place to wash down your Chimay, Leffe or Duval with moules frites on a daily basis — the mussels are only available seasonally — a number of other traditional Belgian dishes fill the menu including carbonade, jambonneau and boulettes sauce tomate as well as the more Swiss-sounding beef and cheese fondue. Hearty fare in a nice environment.
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MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 cafelautrec@hoteldelopera.com 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.
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EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
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SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 0121, www.halia.com.sg Monday – Saturday 11am to 11pm Closed on Sundays A secluded courtyard in the heart of Pacific Place plays host to one of the capital’s best restaurants. A two-floored venue split into a downstairs tapas and bar area,with a refined dining space located on the level above, the menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer, with dishes such as pan-braised Alaskan cod with sea winkle crust and the braised pork belly in shoyu and sweet mirin making an appearance. Has an extensive wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL
Sheraton Hotel, K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 9000 restaurant.hanoi@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our “Wines of the World” selection. ACAC AC
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23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 8388 www.alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
LA CHEMINÉE
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PAN-FRENCH / INTERNATIONAL 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a fine-dining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.
MING PALACE
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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4801 www.nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Named after the completion date of the Opera House under which it is located, walk inside and a labyrinthine-like, barebrick wall hallway leads you through to the main dining area. With dark browns, deep yellow tablecloths and a refined ambience aided by background classical music, the menu takes in western, pan-Asian and seafood fare and even has its own section dedicated entirely to foie gras. Has a 100-strong old and new + + +world wine list that includes Bordeaux vintages and also boasts a cheaper, outdoor garden space next to Highlands Coffee. LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC
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CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 0888 www.hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular first-Friday-ofthe-month party.
RESTAURANTS — ITALIAN
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PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.
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BUFFET & A LA CARTE First Floor, Pullman Hanoi, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3733 0808 www.pullmanhotels.com 6am to 10pm Serving cuisine inspired by local culinary tradition, La Cheminee also includes international classics revisited with an eye on contemporary trends. Buffet service, a la carte menu, dishes to share with family or friends; everything here is created with the concepts of freedom, flexibility and ++ +conviviality.
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99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6991 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This welcomed eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with two venues in Saigon — one near the Opera House and the other in Saigon South — the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and
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CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 3719 www.donviet.vn Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late A bakery, bistro, restaurant, wine retailer, oyster bar and top floor lounge bar all in one, this lake-facing venue is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negra ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.
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6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3845 5224 www.aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.
dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.
seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.
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CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2886 www.luala.vn 8 am to 10 pm If you can't afford the labels at Luala you can still enjoy the cuisine in this small cafe run in conjunction with the high-end fashion concept store, Luala and The Press Club. Offering a large menu specialising in creative but chic cafe fare as well as the prerequisite quality coffee, the outdoor terrace seating offers great views of the downtown area.
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PAN-CHINESE 2nd Level, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place to get
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CASUAL ITALIAN DINING 172 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0680 9am to 10.30pm An Italian eatery in West Lake with a large selection of authentic, pan-Italian cuisine, Cielo is a place which goes back to basic, using homemade Bufala mozzarella on their pizzas. The word Cielo means sky,
out & about goat’s cheese salad. Also serves up curry chicken sandwiches and meatball penne pasta.
which is reflected in the fresh airy dining room. And while their takeaway service is prompt, eating in ensures a much better experience. Prices are very reasonable.
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CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 8585 1443 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
LUNO D’AUTUNNO
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CLASSIC ITALIAN 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3823 73338 lunadautunno@gmail.com 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian restaurant has been going for 10 years. It uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND60,000 to build-your-own-skiesthe-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space with over 35 covers and an outside courtyard, seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly photo exhibitions and opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.
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PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6288 leo@mediterraneo-hanoi.com 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.
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PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 9080 www.panevino.com 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.
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Floor 1, Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 5959 www.zpizza.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm Californian pizza chain in the now open in West Lake. — currently the only place to eat from this American pizza brand in Hanoi. The new pizzeria prides itself on its 100 percent certified organic wheat dough and different dishes found nowhere else, like the strawberry and
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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar) There are only two truly top-end, contemporary Italians in Vietnam and Angelina claims pride of place in this elite group. This doesn't mean that prices here are off limits — take a similar eatery in Europe and here you are paying a third, which all makes a meal here a special affair. The carpaccios are to die for, the pastas are all home made, the pizzas are wood-fired and the steaks are chargrilled. Does a great three-course set lunch for VND520,000++. Nick Ross RESTAURANTS — JAPANESE & KOREAN
BONG-CHU JJIM-DAK
KOREAN CHICKEN B40 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Thanh Xuan Tel: 6680 1423 Visit www.bongchu.co.kr 11am – 10pm In typical Vietnamese fashion, Bong-Chu Jjim Dak restaurant only serves one dish it knows best: chicken. A light kimchi soup is served alongside the steamed bird mixed with cellophane noodles packed in a mildly peppery but sweet combination. It’s simple — ordering options include half chicken, whole chicken, chicken and a half, or all of the above. Select the answer that best fits your appetite and escape from the ubiquitous boiled chicken on streets.
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KOREAN 50A Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3201 2989 One of the longest running Koreans in town, this down-to-earth eatery just off Kim Ma specialises in the Korean nation’s version of sushi rolls. These can be ordered either plain or deep-fried. Other Korean fare includes bibimbab and a range of barbecue dishes. The cuisine is brought to your low tables with floor seating and in typical Korean fashion, all meals are served with free side dishes (banchan) of kim chi, pickles and eggplant.
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JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday Sushi, soba, sake. Buy a big bottle of sake and the staff will put your name on it and keep it until next time. Dine at the downstairs bar or in one of the private rooms with sliding doors for an authentic Japanese experience. Although Ky Y specialises in rice-style working man’s fare, it’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but the Japanese omelets, tempura and saucy eggplant dishes are perennial crowd pleasers.
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JAPANESE BBQ 121 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8437 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Just a stone’s throw from Ky Y, this Osakabased chain does the same cuisine, but entirely differently. The small plates on the large menu are best shared among
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February 2013 Word | 87
{ WINE Connoisseur } ** A Toast for Tet * * By Donald Berger
a group and with bottles of beer or sake. The tofu in amber sauce will leave you licking the plate and the chicken with udon and vegetables is off-the-charts delicious. The tidbit barbeque sticks of okra or bacon are also great, but more as a snack than anything else.
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TRADITIONAL JAPANESE 34 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7565 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm This Japanese eatery might be easy to walk past without noticing, but venture inside and you will find a small but neat interior. The food ranges from traditional Japanese to dishes that lean towards fusion. Very reasonable prices, compared with other Japanese establishments .
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MALAY KOPITIAM 9 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Home-cooked style Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine with dishes such as nasi lemak, roti bakar and mee hoon tom yam cooked up using imported ingredients from both Malaysia and Singapore. Recently refurbished, My Place is designed like a typical Malay 'kopitiam'.
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SINGAPOREAN RESTAURANT 92 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3941 1208 www.lioncity.com.vn Probably Hanoi’s best Singaporean dining is located steps away from the Hanoi train station, so close that a clear view of the tracks can be seen through a window from your table. As part of the lavish Cosiana Hotel, excellent hospitality comes hand in hand with tasty cuisine. Choose from a variety of typical Lion City dishes and speciality drinks.
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t may be the Year of the Snake but snake wine will still not be my recommendation for a Tet tipple. Vietnam, and in particular Le Mat, might be famous for making this wine — and I have tried it on a great number of fun and memorable occasions — but it is symbolically used for medicinal and virility reasons. Instead Tet is a time of celebration for family, business colleagues and friends, usually in large gatherings, where drinking and eating is the sport. And the Vietnamese are champions at feasting! So, if you are lucky enough to be invited and are thinking about what to bring, here is my advice.
challenged, offer a good Chilean bag-in-a-box wine.
Tip Number One
Be prepared. If you are bringing wine with a cork, best to have a corkscrew in case the place
Think big format — magnums, cases or, if financially
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Tip Number Two All kinds of wine can and should be considered, there is more to life than just red wine. Why not bring something sweet, or sparkling, rose or white. Maybe grandmother will enjoy a nice light, low alcohol, sparkling red Italian Rosa Regale. Father and grandfather love the big reds; and mom, who is not much of a drinker, loves slurping up the Canadian ice wine. So don't be afraid to be daring in your selection and pairing. You don't have to bring just one kind; go for some sparkling, some white and some red in that sequence with the dinner.
Tip Number Three
you end up doesn't. And if you really care, bring glasses, too. Personally I can handle tiny tea cup wine shooters, but you do miss some of the experience, aromas and taste. So, what am I having this year to celebrate Tet and my first son with my wife and our family? A champagne, Taittinger Brut Reserve NV Jeroboam(3 L);a red, Chateau Hostens-Picant, Sainte-FoyBordeaux 2005 magnum; and, for dessert, Anakena Late Harvest Requina Viognier 2011. At the restaurant we will be offering two different Tet menus; one quite traditional family style and one luxury menu, both with free flow of beverages. Now the sport begins! Donald Berger is the face behind Don’s Tay Ho. He has been plying his trade in Vietnam for over a decade.
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SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE 63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2992 www.rasasingapura-hanoi.com 5pm to midnight By the shores of Truc Bach Lake is the newly opened Singapore Peranakan Restaurant with its authentic, Straits fusion fare emanating from Singapore, Malacca and Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature dish, all the fare here is home-cooked by the owner / partner who spent five years living and studying in Singapore. This is tasty, homecooked, well-priced fare in a pleasant but tranquil setting. late night dining until the early hours.
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MALAYSIAN / HALAL 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1859 www.nisa-restaurant.com 10am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm A two-storey fresh looking Malaysian restaurant with affable staff and authentic cuisine. Difficulty in obtaining ingredients means that these days the menu is limited, but a nasi campur buffet-style counter in the downstairs space and photos on the wall of other classic Malaysian fare allows customers to choose what to eat. Think nasi lemak, mee goreng, roti canai, beef rendang and more. It tastes good, too.
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PAN-THAI RESTAURANT & CAFE 9 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6353 8am to 10pm Probably the only cafe restaurant in Hanoi that makes a genuine attempt at creating authentic Thai cuisine, mythical figures wearing traditional garb dance along the cream-coloured walls giving this contemporary venue a touch of elegance that goes beyond the food. The dishes come from all the regions of the country formerly known as Siam, with mains weighing in at somewhere around the VND100,000 mark.
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INTERNATIONAL THAI 73 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 8586 7090 11am to 11pm For those with sensitive taste buds, this small restaurant serves up authentic Thai food that is lighter on the spice. Owned by a Bangkok native, the space itself is a small two-level restaurant with traditional Thai décor. At a convenient location near Hoan Kiem and Vincom Towers, Thai Elephant covers all the delicious bases with efficient, fast service and delivery.
RESTAURANTS — VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH CUON PHU LY
BANH CUON 39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem 6am to 3pm Put the warm fish sauce in the small bowl with squeezed lime, chilli and fresh herbs and then dip. This is the Ha Nam version of banh cuon (rolled wet rice paper) with the gio lua (pork cake) substituted for barbecued pork and bacon. The street side, flaking paint wall location may be off putting for some, but the fare tastes great.
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BUN BO HUE 36c Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung 7am to 4pm This is the second branch of the ninemonth-old restaurant on Food Street. Like the Tong Duy Tan favourite, which is more restaurant than street-side affair, the new location serves up the same staples from further south including bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong and nem lui. Authentic, tasty and cheap
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BUN BO 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3923 0701 7am to 11pm Dressed up like an indoor version of a streetside eatery, this megalith of a skinny bun bo restaurant is famed not only for its northern interpretation of a southern dish that you can't buy in the south, but also for its ga tan (stewed marinated chicken). The bun bo itself, a concoction of sauteed beef, peanuts, beansprouts, white noodles and sweet and sour sauce, is one of the better versions available in the city. And the beef is excellent.
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BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 5022 10am to 7pm With the help of over 40 years of customer loyalty and repeated mentions in overseas press, Dac Kim has become the powerhouse of eateries serving up bun cha (white rice noodles with barbecued pork
MAI ANH
and herbs). The formula is simple. The mini pork patties are perfectly rounded, the bacon is perfectly grilled and then the portions are humongous. If you're feeling ravenous, the servings here will fill that merry gap, but if you want quality over quantity, look elsewhere. Has a second eatery at 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem.
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BBQ STAPLES Ly Van Phuc, Ba Dinh Perhaps the most well known street food Mecca in all of Hanoi, the lane is flanked with BBQ chicken joints from north to south. At the Nguyen Thai Hoc entrance, the food stalls boast proper chairs, while the venues at the opposite end offer stools and host much larger crowds. No trip to Hanoi or tenure in the capital is complete without a trip to Chicken Street. Honey grilled banh my and potatoes provide vegetarians with savory alternatives.
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HOI AN CUISINE 1 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 3856 7am to 11pm A four-storey restaurant and café specialising in food from the centre of Vietnam — or, as the name suggests, the ancient town of Hoi An. It serves everything from the famous cao lau noodles and my quang tom, to bun bo nuong and com ga Hoi An. Also sells Thai and Chinese cuisine, cakes and ice cream. A spiral staircase, a second floor terrace and pictures of the ancient town top it all off.
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VEGAN 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4140 9am to 9pm The set meals for one person or a group of six people make this a popular lunchtime eatery. Signs clearly demarcate the way through the alley on Tran Hung Dao to this casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Everything on the menu is vegetarian, from standard tofu with tomato sauce to more obscure fake meat dishes. The walls are moldy but the food is fresh.
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PHO GA 32 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 8492 5am to 4pm Ignore the doubters, this infamous eatery serves up some seriously wholesome pho ga (chicken noodle soup) in a hygienic, shared table indoor environment. The secret? The broth, a perfectly rounded chicken stock consomme. Portions are big, too, and diners can order chicken on the bone or off and can even get an extra egg added to the soup for good measure.
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PHO CUON / PAN-VIETNAMESE 71-77 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh 9am to midnight For a dish purported to be invented by French chef Didier Corlou, it is phenomenal how this wet rice paper filled with beef and herbs affair has so quickly been absorbed into the street food fold. Dipped into sweet fish sauce with a touch of chilli, it tastes good, too. The biggest proponents of this dish are on Truc Bach — a row of five street-side eateries that also sell standard, quan nhau meat and seafood fare. There is also another strip of joints just round the corner on Ngu Xa.
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PHO GA / PHO BO / PHO XAO 32 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem 5.30am to 11pm A hearty, slightly salty broth accompanies the pho ga at this well-known, 40-year-old street corner eatery also lauded for its tasty pho xao and pho bo. It's a simple, typically Hanoian streetside affair here with red plastic tables on the street and foot-high stools. The soup comes with an accompanying basket of slightly stale but buttery banh quay.
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PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 6am to 4pm A stilt-hutted street food eatery and cafe in the shadow of Elite Fitness doing a tasty version of the sweet and sour bun bo Nam Bo (southern-style beef noodles). Ladle in the chilli and mix up with the beansprouts, fresh herbs, peanuts and sauteed beef, and you have a spiced-up, filling meal. Also does decent pho ga (chicken noodle soup) and pho xao (fried noodles). Has a semi-mezannine cafestyle space out back.
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VEGAN 39 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 6278 1848 7am to 9pm Vegetarians delight in being able to order anything off this more-creativethan-normal traditional Vietnamese Buddhist restaurant situated on a quiet street. Corn juice is the drink of choice here, as everyone around sips the tepid yellow stuff, and the array of fried tofu vegetable dishes makes you reconsider vegan cuisine as “health food.” Order an office lunch plate or dine in during the weekend surrounded by families and walls adorned with traditional Buddhist imagery. AC
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VEGAN Nha 2, Ngo 12 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 1622 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm Simplicity is the key at this small but airy, zen-like bamboo-table eatery located behind the Syrena Centre. A rarity in Vietnam — the cuisine here doesn’t only
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CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 37 Nam Tran, Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Mau Dich is a blast from Vietnam’s subsidy era past with diners ordering from a blackboard and paying in vouchers. Traditional dishes like thit kho tau are written up daily and washed down with cool bia hoi. Hanoi’s most interesting themed restaurant.
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HUE CUISINE 150 Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da Tel: 6674 7917 6.30am to 10pm A no frills, ten-table restaurant easy to miss at the end of Nguyen Khuyen, just opposite the Temple of Literature. Specialises in dishes from Hue, like banh beo and banh khoai, all at local prices. The staff is friendly and helpful and the bun bo Hue is spot on.
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FISH PORRIDGE / CHAO CA 213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3829 5281 Serves perhaps some of the best chao ca in the city. This rice porridge with fish is garnished with a healthy amount of fresh herbs and, if you choose, strips of banh quay – the Chinese style fried bread. The fish is boneless, which helps set this place apart from others selling the same dish. One bowl is VND30,000.
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out & about focus on faux meat imitation — the menu mixes canh (broth) with a range of light dishes, Vietnamese-style salads and a selection of tofu and gluten-inspired mains. Worth a try for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike.
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CHA CA 14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3929 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm A funky wooden-floored two storey, one-dish-only eatery on a street devoted to one of Hanoi's best known dishes, cha ca. Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in Vietnam (established 1873) the deal is straightforward. The butter-coated, premarinated fish is sauteed with dill and spring onions on the table and served up with sides of peanuts, bun noodles and fresh herbs. It's not street food prices cheap by any means, but it's darned tasty. Popular with tourists and locals.
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TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 65 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3976 0633 www.chimsao.com 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Situated in a turn-of-the-century French townhouse in a tucked away alley, the ‘whistling bird’ continues to offer some of the best ‘traditional’ Vietnamese food in the capital. Sit on the floor upstairs or enjoy seating downstairs, regardless this eatery serves up simple Vietnamese staples that are well executed and presented in a setting that makes one feel like a regal Hanoian.
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LOUNGE CAFE 15A Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 0913 221971 Step downstairs through Choi’s imposing wooden doors, and into their cellar-like lair. Intricate jazz tunes float through the spacious interior, adorned with artwork that pays tribute to greats like D. Ellington and Bo Diddley. Enjoy a smart, cozy setting with selections of wines, soups, salads and other Vietnamese comfort foods to enjoy.
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CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 26 A-B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6133. ngonhanoi@vnn.vn 7am to 10pm Large and always busy restaurant set in two colonial buildings. The courtyard is filled with tables and fairy light covered trees, which are circled by 18 cooking stoves. Here the chefs serve Vietnamese classics from all over the country a la carte style. Good for street side classics done well in the comfort of an airy restaurant. Of the 14 dining spaces, one room holds 30 guests. Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.
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GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem Tel: 1355 9096 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the rollyour-own cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.
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CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 8162 sales@ngonhanoi.com 7am to 9.30pm Long-time favourite serving up Vietnamese classics in a large French villa and courtyard. Menu is huge, made up of street-food options and higher end dishes from Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City. Quick service makes it ideal for lunch and the array of options makes it perfect for newcomers to Vietnamese cuisine. Order loads and share, of course.
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INDOCHINE / VIETNAMESE 13 Tran Hung Dao, Tel: 3933 3533 Set in converted colonial villas and frequented primarily by travellers that unload in front of the establishment on massive tour buses, this venue is imbued with the nostalgia of Indochine, replete with chess boards, stylish fans and waitresses outfitted in ao dais. Boasts a large menu filled with Vietnamese favourites and much more.
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STEAK / CHINESE NOODLES 52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 2251 7am to 10.30pm Located on the corner of Hoa Ma, this steak served sizzling-on-the-griddle eatery packs no punches when it comes to getting your beef. Get the standard banh my affair and the imported US steak is doled up with meatballs, fried egg, chips and lots of fat. It's a cholesterol mess of a meal but really tasty. Also does bun bo Hue, Phuc Kien noodles and the Khmer Chinese hu tieu Nam Vang. Has restaurants at 349 Doi Can and 71 Tran Duy Hung.
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VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 4200 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3771 6372 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3796 2647 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 0639 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6377 10am to midnight
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VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 38 Hang Hom Tel: 3928 7241 An unassuming establishment that rarely fills up, which means that customers often benefit from better service and the servers utmost attention. What the restaurant lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with a large menu that is chalked full of reasonably priced Vietnamese fare and some western staples. AC
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PAN-VIETNAMESE 17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3972 8001 clubopera@orientalstars.com.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Indochine elegance mixes with top-end culinary flair to create one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. Fine dining it isn't — this country's cuisine doesn't really lend itself to that type of cooking. But quality ingredients and a twist of creativity makes the fare here well worth the higher price tag — think creative spring rolls and lobster cooked up with a passion-fruit sauce. This is just the start. Also has a great downstairs lounge bar.
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IMPERIAL / CONTEMPORARY 63 Pham Hong Thai, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3927 5920 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm After shutting the doors at its former location, Com Viet is nestled in the tranquil neighbourhood near Truc Bach Lake. The ‘imperial’ staple, with its pristine décor and antiques, traditional bites and regal atmosphere, specialises in serving up traditional treats with contemporary fusion — think cheese wrapped in beef with a side of pickled cucumbers and a glass of red. Go on the right night and catch live traditional music in the courtyard and feel like a king.
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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Tel: 3943 9342 www.wildlotus.com.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm One of the city’s most popular Vietnamese restaurants is a delight from the entrance inwards. Walk over water features and 100 roses and up the spiral staircase into subdued lighting, warm colours and a menu that mixes subtle, well-executed Asian flavours. Not for those who love the sharpness of some street foods, but definitely for those who have guests in town or business clients to schmooze. Quite an experience.
RESTOBARS
Nick Ross
DALUVA
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CLASSY FUSION 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 5831 www.daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. Additional services include catering, BBQ rentals, playroom, kids menu, takeaway and local delivery. ++ + ACACAC
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FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 www.etehanoi.com 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.
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29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 ext. 6414 satine@hoteldelopera.com Situated in the heart of Hotel de l’Opera’s 8 storey central atrium, Satine offers a high class dining experience. Signature Vietnamese dishes from around the country will be presented to guests including some of the country’s best kept culinary secrets passed down by generations.
SOFTWATER
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57 Bui Thi Xuan Street, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 0204, www.potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.
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VIETNAMESE SEAFOOD 55 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 6270 0787 10am to 10pm There are two of these restaurants in Vietnam and the other is in Phu Quoc, the location of probably the best seafood in the country. Every type of ocean-breathing animal is available here in addition to an array of tofu and vegetables. From crab to Russian sturgeon and grouper, most of this seafood harks from down south or Halong Bay. The restaurant is set up so that every day is a banquet and you can pick your poisons from the tank.
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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 42 Duong 9, F361, An Duong, Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: 2260 8968 10am-10pm Imperial-era architecture, a rock garden with trees almost 300 years old, a beautiful lawn area and contemporary Asian-influenced international fare make up the mix at this quite unique top-end restaurant. The cuisine and drinks don’t come cheap, but then establishments such as Softwater are a rarity. Has both an international and a Vietnamese menu and is located by the river in An Duong at the end of Road 9, close to the Sofitel Plaza.
GRAIN AND GRAPE
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LOUNGE CAFÉ 9 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 3710 1566 Nestled along bustling Au Co, seconds away from West Lake, Grain and Grape provides a comfortable, elegant setting to enjoy a glass of wine alongside an appetizing meal. Outdoor seating, dining room, and an upstairs seating area adorned with stacks of wine bottles along the walls only give testament to its extensive, diverse menu.
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INTERNATIONAL The Clubhouse, Ciputra, Tel: 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.
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out & about JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
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23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 8388 www.Jackson_steakhouse.com 9.30am to midnight This new addition to the city from the Alfresco’s Group is definitely the meatiest yet. In the shape of a four floor, chic restobar — which has a bar lounge on the ground, a restaurant vibe on the second and third, and a “boardroom” on the fourth — Jacksons Steakhouse serves of well presented plates of imported Oz and New Zealand steaks as well as seafood. Of course, the large restaurant wouldn’t be complete without a large wine list to match.
LA PETIT TONKINOISE
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BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2104 www.lepub.org 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make
ity live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.
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SPANISH 26 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 8585 2563 9am to 11pm Nestled just off the main Old Quarter drag, this bar and restaurant daubed in the colours of the Spanish flag is the first genuine Iberian tapas bar in town. Sells a range of fare from paella through to tapas, a selection of tortilla and Spanish mains, and also serves lethal but tasty sangria. Spanish tempanillos and reds make up the enigmatic mix.
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ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm Located on the corner of Quang Trung, this large new cafe, restaurant and bar is housed in a restored colonial building. The beautiful courtyard is liberally decorated with plants, fans, blowlight jets of water, and shade is provided by tasteful cream parasols. Inside, a non-smoking, airconditioned room is the perfect place to escape the heat. Western and Vietnamese fare is on offer, they have a huge range of wine, beer and coffee and they serve excellent fries too.
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INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.
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SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 1901 therooftop@vnn.vn 8am to midnight If location counts for anything, then here it is spectacular. With a 270-degree view over the whole of the city, the up-on-high theme of the Rooftop is used to its full. The bar is pretty cool, too, with bare brick, sofa-style seating, glass fronted wine displays and a private room out back for more intimate drinking. Also does day-time office lunches, coffee and decent bar food.
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BAR, CAFÉ AND MUSIC VENUE 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho www.rockandrolltavern-hanoi.com Come grab a drink at the newly revamped R &R to enjoy a taste of American style brew and their comforting Western dishes. The pub still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some qual-
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INTERNATIONAL / WINE AND JAZZ 12 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3927 5708 5.30pm to midnight Tucked into a quiet street close to Truc Bach, this romantic, Parisian-styled lounge exhibits art from up-and-coming Hanoi artists and is best experienced on the nights with live music. The menu offerings are rich and robust, from chicken curry to spaghetti and roast duck, all created to pair well with wine. Come for dinner and stay for the live jazz and well-curated wine selection.
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restobar on Food Street with a great outdoor terrace area, a shared indoor bar space, a chef’s table and upstairs seating. Matched by contemporary décor, the creative food menu focuses on doing comfort food well, while a decent new and old world wine list and innovative cocktails make up the mix. Popular with the media and artsy set.
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CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3398 1979 www.southgatehanoi.com Sunday to Wednesday 11.30am to midnight. Thursday to Saturday 11.30am to 2am An American-run casual yet sophisticated
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12 Truong Han Sieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 6680 9124 www.tadioto.com 8.30am to Midnight Alternative and nostalgic restaurant bar with a dim lit conversational ambience. This French-style villa is adorned with old-world architectural styles and hints of engaging contemporary artwork along its walls. Enjoy a glass of wine to complement a variety of succulent light dishes in this combination café, bar, and gallery. Includes lounge seating, two bars, an outdoor patio, and two multipurpose rooms for small gatherings. Tadioto is an exciting, intimate venue for live music, literary readings, and art showcases.
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OLD SKOOL 1 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 2888 9am to 11.30pm This ‘Chill Lounge’ is not too far from the Opera House and is ideal for drinks against a bright backdrop. Its large bar serves up test tube shooters and the Party Animal Bucket offers a range of shots. Of course, it’s a café/restaurant, too and be sure to check out the owner’s collection of boom boxes next to the DJ Booth. Live music on Wednesdays and a DJ at the weekend.
WEST LAKE OUT & ABOUT
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the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events. Has a second Le Pub at Third Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho.
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OTHER BUSINESSES
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The Cart
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L’s Place
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St. Honore; Vine
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Oasis; Red Apron
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Segafredo; Tracy’s; Kitchen
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Vine Cellar Door
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Mandarin; India Palace
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Yuki’s
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Al Fresco’s; Tay Tap
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Kitchen Art
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House of Son Tinh
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Santal Spa; Bamboo Village
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Don’s Tay Ho
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City Zoo; Better Day
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Da Paolo; Coconut Cafes
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Collective Concepts
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La Salsa
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Binh’s Salon
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White Cloud
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L’Atelier
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Cielo
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Pure Heaven
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Bobby Chinn
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International SOS
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Le Marrakech
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Ham Long Mini Market
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Daluva
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Module 17
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Joma
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George’s Fashion
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Hanoi Rock City
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Veggie’s
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Love Chocolate Cafe
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Zenith Yoga
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El Gaucho
February 2013 Word | 91
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LEISURE & ARTS LISTINGS
AMUSEMENT 092 ANTIQUES 092 BOOKS SHOPS 092 CINEMAS 092 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 092 COOKING CLASSES 092 CYCLING 092 DANCING 092 FITNESS 092 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 094 GALLERIES 095 GOLF COURSES 095 HAIDRESSERS & SALONS 095
AMUSEMENT
visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings
KIDS 095 LEISURE GENERAL 096 MASSAGE 095 NAILS 096 PERFORMING ARTS 096 SPAS 096 SPORTS CLASSES 096 TENNIS 096 VIETNAMESE CLASSES 096 YOGA 096 COLUMNS BOOK BUFF 093 CINEMA BUFF 094 French and English books and even some literature.
XUNHASABA
COSMOS
168 Ngoc Khanh, Dong Da This bowling alley may be small, but if you’re hankering for a night at the lanes, this one has instant replay cameras that will show your strike again in slow motion.
32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 4068 Often referred to just as ‘The Foreign Language Bookstore’, you’ll find a decent selection of both books and magazines. Their biggest section is composed of ESL materials, but you will also find fiction.
HANOI STAR BOWL
2B Pham Ngoc Trach, Dong Da Tel: 3574 1614 Plenty of lanes, and the zany colours add to the festive feel. A game will cost VND27,000, plus a little extra for the shoe rental. All in all it makes for a night of good fun.
QUAN TOM
89 Bui Thi Xuan Tel: 3294 47844 The staff at this karaoke bar is quite friendly. Large, comfortable rooms, and – their claim to fame – a vast English language track list, makes for a good night.
ANTIQUES 54 TRADITIONS GALLERY
30 Hang Bun, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3715 0194 www.54traditions.com.vn The only gallery in Vietnam focusing on the antiques, artifacts and art of Vietnam’s 53 minority groups and the Kinh majority people. Has over 1,000 items on display and objects in the collection have been exhibited in museums both in Hanoi and abroad.
BOOK SHOPS BOOKWORM
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 3711 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.
HIEU SACH THANG LONG
55 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7043 A large bookstore with mostly Vietnamese material, but there is also a selection of
92 | Word February 2013
CINEMAS
individuals can stay in touch and continue to affect the political winds that are blowing Stateside. Hosts regular events for every major election cycle.
AMERICAN CLUB
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 1850 www.americanclubhanoi.com A bit worn around the edges, but the facilities are still useful and the grounds pleasant. They host frequent events that are open to the public. Wide lawn, volleyball and basketball courts may make the place worth a visit.
HANOI CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 The exclusive social and fitness club is located on the banks of West Lake. Golfers hit balls into the lake from the driving range and swimmers enjoy a lovely view from the pool. The gym is small and classes are not included as part of the steep yearly membership fees.
L’ESPACE
24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem www.ambafrance-vn.org The cultural arm of the French Embassy is very active in the cultural life of the city. They both organise and host many functions – music, performing arts, film. Large French language library as well as classes and workshops.
COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2648 Not a movie theater per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0088. www.hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.
MEGASTAR
HIDDEN HANOI
CINEMATHEQUE
Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, 6th floor, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 3333 www.megastarmedia.net Inside Vincom towers, this big, westernstyle multiplex shows some of the latest English language and Asian foreign films. The experience includes fairly wellstocked concession stands, comfortable seats, air conditioning and a booming sound system.
MEGASTAR PICO MALL 299 Tay Son, Dong Da The second Megastar outlet in the city in the newly renovated Pico Mall. Generally less crowed than the theatre at Vincom Towers, but the same concept. For real Hollywood and American fast food fans, has a Pizza Hut and Swensen’s within the same cinema complex.
NATIONAL CINEMA CENTRE 87 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3514 2278 Cineplex with several smaller theaters and an arcade. Movies are quite cheap, especially matinees. Be sure to ask if the movie is subtitled in Vietnamese or dubbed.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES DEMOCRATS ABROAD – VIETNAM www.democratsabroad.org Affiliated with the American Democratic Party, like-minded and politically active
137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 254045 www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 0577 The well-known restaurant also offers one-off cooking courses in the kitchens at their Truc Bach location. Don’t worry if you forget some of the tricks, as the class includes a recipe booklet.
KITCHEN ART STORE AND STUDIO
Lane 38/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 6680 2770 www.kitchenart.vn Well stocked and modern cooking store offering cooking classes with one of Vietnam's popular food personalities. Kitchen Art Basic Baking Classes also open to non-Vietnamese speaking students. The friendly staff ensures that everyone is able to follow the instructor.
KOTO
Lane 52/28, House 9, To Ngoc Van Tel: 3747 0377 www.koto.com.vn This charitable organisation, which helps street kids gain the skills to succeed in the hospitality industry, also offers
cooking classes to the public on Tuesdays at their training centre. Learn how to make some of the items on their menu at home. Pick up is also available at their Van Mieu location.
CYCLING THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)
44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 8246 www.thbc.vn Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles. To add to the eclectic, community spirit they also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin & tonic. Quite a mix!
DANCING ASPARA DANCE STUDIO
Level 3, 141 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6869 Gate 3, Hanoi Academy, Ciputra Tel: 3743 0455 www.apsarastudio.com.vn Cosy, friendly and well equipped dance studios offering dance and fitness classes for adults and children. Classes include ballet, folk dance, jazz, hip-hop, contemporary, belly dance, salsa, zumba and yoga for family. Instructors are qualified and certified from Vietnam Dance College or overseas.
FITNESS ELITE FITNESS
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6281 www.elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.
FOUR SEASONS SWIMMING POOL
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250 This beautiful hotel has a swimming pool for VND40,000 per day, and another VND10,000 for a locker to keep your pantaloons. It might be a good idea to go during the off hours, as it’s a well used pool. But if laps are what you want, the pool is large and, at times, quiet.
HANOI BOOTCAMP BEEACTIVE
To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho beeactivetoday@gmail.com The successor to the weekly bootcamp famously run by fitness professional Helen Kindness, BeeActive continues the community spirit by bringing together both the fit and unfit to work out on the streets. To take part, drop them an email. Sessions are all held around the To Ngoc Van area, unless stated otherwise.
NSHAPE FITNESS
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 6266 0495 www.nshapefitness.vn This gym with American Life Fitness
{ BOOK Buff }
I
t’s amazing what a stirring adaptation of a novel for a TV series will do for revitalising interest in the said novel and its author. With the serialisation of Ken Follett’s Pillars of the Earth in 2010 there was a tsunami of interest in the novel of the same name, first published in 1989. Now with the screening of his second book, World Without End, set in the fictional English town of Kingsbridge (probably in Wiltshire), there is a surging wave of requests for it. To anticipate this most of Follett’s books have been reissued in paperback. I always shied away from Follett, categorising him as a cheap thriller writer. And what a mistake that turned out to be. His historical novels are finely researched and his prowess as a thriller writer imbues these works with great tension and a use of language that makes them easy reading and hard to put down. Its amazing how many non-history buffs get tied up in the plots that boil over with dramas, love affairs, wars, death, torture and execution all graphically taking place in the mid to late middle ages.
Historical and TV Adaptations Pillars of the Earth is set in the period 1135 to 1145, when King Stephen forcibly takes over the crown of England and plunges his country into a bloody civil war. During this time the citizens of the village of Kingsbury build a great gothic cathedral that eventually brings their region great prosperity when it becomes part of the pilgrims’ progress. Follett certainly knows how to get his readers awesomely involved from page one when he leads us, with a group of small boys, into the joyous excitement of a public hanging. World Without End, which, although a sequel, can be read without prior knowledge of the first novel, begins in 1327 with
** Books of the Month * *
From stories that have been adapted for TV through to scary, magical stuff for the kids, this month Bookworm’s Truong looks at some of the books available in Hanoi the murder of Plantagenet King Edward II by his wife and the ascension to the throne of their son Edward III. It proceeds at a rattling pace as Kingsbridge becomes a city of 10,000 and is a victim of heavy taxation as Edward instigates the Hundred Year War with France. Along the way the first outbreak of the Black Death is weathered and the story concludes with the city’s citizens in the throes of the second bout of bubonic plague in 1361. The first episode of the TV adaptation takes after the book and features mass public hangings on the city’s bridge, leg breaking, witch trials and executions, poisonings, throat slitting and a huge drowning catastrophe when the crowded bridge collapses (during a hanging of course). My big criticism of the TV
story is that it is far too clean and comfortable, and lacks the dirt and grovelling filth wherein people lived, gave birth and died. The director should have studied the movie The Name of the Rose to get things disgustingly correct. Follett certainly pulls no hygienic punches in his text.
For the Kids So what can the nine plus year olds do when their oldies and wrinklies are engrossed in the TV mayhem that is British history when it’s retold with its horrors and inhumanities intact? Well, if they are readers they may have their noses into the five books of The Secret Series by Pseudonymous Bosch. If they were weaned into pre-teenhood on the Lemony Snickets they’ll be right at home and even reading under the
leisure & arts
blankets with a flashlight, after the bedroom lights have been argumentatively dowsed. There’s enough creepy stuff in the books (all of which are over 400 pages long) to make the young readers not at all jealous about the eviscerations and other bloody thrilling bits that their parents are enjoying (a bit like them being onlookers at a public execution). The kids will be part of the bad guys’ plans to vacuum out a boy’s brain fluids through his nose. They will thrill as a humanoid creature attempts cannibalism. They will get goose bumps as really nasty villains plot evil deeds. Because there’s a bit of murky sludge around it’s best to avoid getting younger kids involved, but if you are a reader of stories to your kids and they are in the proper age group — and even much older — you’ll probably get as much fun and dramatic involvement as they do, forget about the clock and read on way past the kids’ prescribed bed time. Here’s a paraphrased outline from a review that won’t spoil the kids’, or your, anticipations. “Cass and Max-Ernest — though these are not their real names — are in middle school. Cass is a dedicated survivalist and is actively prepared for any disaster big or small. Max-Ernest is very logical but even so he desperately wants to be a magician or a comedian, even though he can’t tell or remember jokes. They come across a dead magician’s diary and are pulled inexorably into a world of secrets with all their dire consequences.” For more information on Bookworm go to www. bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original store in Chau Long in the Truc Bach area, Bookworm have a second, smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton and in the same alley as VilaTom Coffee, it can be found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
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{ CINEMA Buff } ** THE YEAR IN FILM * *
relationship in their struggle for survival. R becomes increasingly more human — setting off an exciting, romantic and often comical chain of events that begins to transform the other zombies and maybe even the whole lifeless world. Watch it at MegaStar from Feb. 14. MONSTERS INC. (3D) Directors: Pete Docter, David Silverman, Lee Unkrich Stars: Billy Crystal, John Goodman and Mary Gibbs Genre: Animation, adventure, comedy Receiving a lot of praise when first released in 2001, Monsters Inc. now hopes to expand its popularity with the 3D version. The film tells the story from a city of monsters without humans, called Monstropolis. The monsters generate their city's power by scaring children, but they are afraid themselves of being contaminated by children. So when a child enters Monstropolis, top scarer Sulley finds his world disrupted. Watch it from Feb. 15 at MegaStar and Lotte Landmark Cinema
THE BEAUTY TRAP (My Nhan Ke) Director: Nguyen Quang Dung Stars: Thanh Hang, Tang Thanh Ha, Pham Anh Khoa Genre: Action, drama Linh Lan is born to a powerful and wealthy family, but a group of wicked and cruel gangs appear and destroy forever her once peaceful life. To get revenge, she joins a martial arts centre which is hidden under a brothel. Here, Linh Lan quickly becomes one of the most charming but deadly warriors. Nothing can be more terrifying than a beautiful woman with a strong determination to get revenge! Hits the screens on Feb.1 at MegaStar cinema complexes in Vincom Tower (191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung),and in Pico Mall (229 Tay Son, Dong Da), Lotte Landmark Cinema (Keangnam Towers, My Dinh), Platinum Cineplex in Vincom Long Bien (Gia Lam) and in the Garden Shopping Mall (My Dinh). Vietnamese with English subtitles. WARM BODIES Director: Jonathan Levine Stars: Nicholas Hoult, Teresa Palmer and John Malkovich Genre: Comedy, horror, romance After R (a highly unusual zombie) saves Julie from an attack, the two form a special
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THE LAST STAND Director: Jee-woon Kim Stars: Arnold Schwarzenegger, Forest Whitaker and Johnny Knoxville Genre: Action, crime, thriller Sheriff Owens is a man resigned to a life in the sleepy border town of Summerton Junction, following a bungled operation while in the LAPD that left his partner crippled and wracked with failure and defeat. But all that is about to change. After a spectacular escape from an FBI prisoner convoy, the most notorious drug kingpin in the hemisphere is hurtling at speed towards Summertown Junction in a specially outfitted car with a hostage and a fierce army of gang members. U.S. law enforcement has one last opportunity to make a stand and intercept him before he slips across the border forever. What does this mean for Sheriff Owen? Dismissed as an inept small town cop and held back by his own demons, he finally steps up, taking responsibility for the face off. Opens on Feb. 22 at MegaStar cinema complexes
cardio and weight machines, provides a clean, uncrowded environment and expertly staffed facilities with a selection of fitness classes for its members. Classes include boxing, yoga and groupX with both Vietnamese and foreign fitness trainers on hand to give exercisers advice. Membership starts from VND1.5 million per month with no joining fee.
STAR FITNESS
4th Floor, The Garden, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3787 5353 This lifestyle, top-end gym in My Dinh offers massage rooms, steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, cold plunge baths, gym areas, exercise studios, locker rooms, and a swimming pool. It is a great option for residents living on the outskirts of the city.
SUNWAY HEALTH CLUB
19 Pham Dinh Ho, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 3888 Very good equipment in this small gym, housed in a little hotel. None of the extra frills that you might expect at a larger place, but all the machines are running and well maintained. Monthly price of membership for non-guests is about VND1.4 million.
THE LITTLE GYM OF HANOI
4th floor, 402 Vincom Centre, Long Bien Tel: 0935 158 555 www.thelittlegym.com.vn A place that aims to show kids the meaning of serious fun. At The Little Gym, a positive environment and bilingual classes create opportunities for children to try things and build selfconfidence, all with a proud grin. Kids from four months through to 12 years are welcome to develop motor skills and more — this is a great way to give your child a brain boost, work on their social skills and get them moving. Besides a range of gymnastics classes, they also host awesome birthday bashes, organise kids camps and arrange parent survival nights.
VIETCLIMB
So 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho Tel: 5321 9235 www.vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.
VINCHARM SPA AND GYM
6th & 7th floor Vincom Centre, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8686 www.vincharmspa.com Far more Zen then your average gym, work out to toned-down music while toning up on state of the art equipment, and have a post workout drink at the juice bar. There is even a separate swimming pool for tots, and a full service spa. Top-end equipment and services come with top-end monthly fees — not for the feint-hearted.
FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY HANOI CAPITALS FOOTBALL CLUB
www.hanoi-capitals.blogspot.com Hanoi Capitals don’t play. This football club is serious about their sport. The uni-
leisure & arts forms and attitudes alone tell you they’re no Bad News Bears. If you want to let your skills shine get in contact with Ricky at 0903 413339.
HANOI YOUTH FOOTBALL LEAGUE
www.hanoiyouthfootball.com/english/home/ The biggest youth football league in the capital. Youths aged 8 to 16 years old come together to play regular tournaments.
VIET CELTS
www.vietcelts.com The first and only Gaelic Football league in Hanoi has recently added a women’s team. The teams play in the Southeast Asia Gaelic League as well as in tournaments all over the region. Bring a sporting spirit as a spectator or a player. Call Gareth for more information: 0904 228629.
VIETNAM SWANS
www.vietnamswans.com In true Aussie style, the Vietnam Swans footballers hold not only weekly matches and training sessions, but social and drinking affairs as well. Concerned just as much with fun as with winning, this club is welcoming to anyone. who is willing GALLERIES to have a good time.
APRICOT GALLERY
40B Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8965 www.apricot-artvietnam.com This centrally located space houses art by some of Vietnam’s best-known contemporary artists, such as Hoang Hai
SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 2896 FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250 HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808 MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343 OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049 SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161 SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888 THAN NHAN Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park) THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Anh and Dinh Quan, as well as up and coming artists.
ART VIETNAM Ngo 66 So Nha 2, Pho Yen Lac, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3862 3184 www.artvietnamgallery.com Now operating from the private residence of owner Suzanne Lecht, Art Vietnam is one of Hanoi's most respected galleries, featuring contemporary art in all its forms: painting, lacquer, photography and video, from both upand-coming and established artists. To see the full list of artworks available, go to the website. Gallery viewing is by appointment only
HANOI ART CONTEMPORARY GALLERY 36-38 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7192 www.hanoi-artgallery.com This art space is home to a large collection of your standard tourist fare along with a smatter of more unique pieces.
MAI GALLERY 113 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0568 www.maigallery-vietnam.com Several floors of paintings, regularly changed, by some of the best known contemporary artists in the country, some of whom they’ve helped in gaining international recognition. Mai specialises is finding the perfect décor for both homes and offices.
MAISON DES ARTS 31 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 8096 www.maisondesartshanoi.com A gallery near the Temple of Literature with several floors bills itself not only as an art gallery, but a multi-purpose social and cultural space. Frequent exhibitions feature both Vietnamese and international artists. Mlle. Nga, who runs the space, also involves herself in several other cultural projects around Hanoi.
RED RIVER GALLERY 7 Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 9071 www.redriverartvietnam.com This small gallery has focused on building a collection of traditional Hanoi images with a modern twist since it opened in 1990. The gallery actively seeks out talented young contemporary artists.
SUFFUSIVE GALLERY 35A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem www.suffusiveart.com Don’t be fooled by the signs hawking café sua da. Hidden within the coffee shop interior is a small gallery showing some of Vietnam’s newest talent.
VIET FINE ARTS GALLERY 96 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6667 www.vietfinearts.com If you’re looking for a well-known name, and a high price tag to match, Viet Fine Arts sells work by some of Hanoi’s more famous artists.
GOLF COURSES HANOI CLUB DRIVING RANGE 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3623 8115 A fitness club that also boasts a two-level
driving range where the balls are hit into the water. No net means you can gauge your driving. The price for a bucket of golf balls depends on whether or not you’re a member.
TAM DAO GOLF AND RESORT www.tamdaogolf.com Relatively new golf club near the base of the mountains at Tam Dao. It is about two hours from the city, but does provide an 18-hole course with a clubhouse and a spectacular view, surrounded by green hills.
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS BINH’S SALON 3 Lane 31/10 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2656 A salon and spa offering a variety of cosmetic services, and specialising in western cuts and colour.
DINH HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 09877 18899 A small but popular hair salon that serves both expats and locals. The many repeat customers go back because of Dinh’s willingness to both follow instructions, or to be creative when asked. Services include scalp massage, shampooing, colouring and styling.
FRANGIPANI SPA 405 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 6329 2915 www.frangipani.com.vn New garden-themed day spa named after the frangipani flower, known in Vietnam for its healing properties. Services include hair salon, nail care and massages. Details to amenities like bathrobes, slippers and towels provide a comfortable atmosphere.
TA SALON Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 1754 / 3758 2940 (Ciputra). Hotline: 0912 267613 Multi-functional hair and body salon with a range of treatments running from haircut, highlights, shampoo, straightening and perm to hot stone foot and body massages, a range of facials, waxing, bikini lines and body scrub. With a first salon in Ciputra, TA number two is at the Hanoi club. Popular with both western and Asian expats as well as A-class Vietnamese.
THE HAIR WORKSHOP 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5980 Located in Hanoi Towers, The Hair Workshop has a number of hairdressers used to cutting and styling all types of hair. The prices are significantly higher than they would be on the street, or at a smaller shop, but there are many people who refuse to go anywhere else. A full service salon that also offers such services as waxing.
HAIR SPACE 137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 127554 Run by an Australian expat named Cat, this is a small but comfortable and well-run hair studio located in the Hidden Hanoi building. There is only Cat and her one assistant, so be sure to make an appointment.
TRAN HUNG HAIR CREATION 5 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3943 4946 Located near Reunification Park, Hung has a long list of satisfied clients, both western and Vietnamese. Be prepared to allot one to two hours for a cut and more for colour as Hung is a perfectionist.
KIDS HANOI ZOO Off Kim Ma, opposite Daewoo Hotel Tel: 3834 7395 Really as much a park as it is a zoo, you can find Vietnamese families on picnics here on any given day. Strewn throughout, sometimes in curiously small cages, you’ll also find a number of animals large and small, all indigenous to the country. Also, there are other attractions for children such as a fun house, and big, floating plastic balls they can climb into. The One Man Cinema operates out of here at weekends.
KINDERPARK 614 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: 3710 1666 www.kinderpark.vn A huge international indoor playground for children of all ages founded by three likeminded mums. The indoor playground covers an impressive 2,000 sqm, and offers activities, birthday parties and a well-trained staff. There is a café for parents to sit in while their children run amok.
THANG LONG WATER PUPPET THEATRE Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Daily shows of traditional rustic Vietnamese carved puppets, animate folkloric tales accompanied by music. This can be fun for adults as well as children.
THE LITTLE GYM OF HANOI 4th Floor, 402A Vincom Center, Long Bien Tel: 3515 8555 www.thelittlegym.com/hanoi The newest addition to the Hanoi family entertainment scene, this globally-known brand has more than 300 locations across the world. Has a range of programmes for kids aged four months to 12 years old including gymnastics, karate, dance classes, sports skills and more, with the activities focusing on developing both cerebral and physical capacity. Also hosts birthday parties, organises camps and arranges parents nights.
TINIWORLD 51 Xuan Dieu, Syrena Towers; 229 Tay Son, Pico Mall An indoor play-haven for children inside the safety of a shopping centre. Pay an entry fee of VND50,000 and let your kids loose on the jungle gym and video arcade-style games. Small and with enough staff on hand so you can let your kids play, and head out to do a little shopping next door.
VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung There are a bunch of toy stores and shops for children in the mall area of the second tower. Also, near the food court, you’ll find an arcade with video games and tiny rides for very small kids.
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leisure & arts LEISURE GENERAL FRIENDS OF VIETNAMESE HERITAGE www.fvheritage.org A non-profit organization devoted to the culture of Vietnam. People from all over the world join together to educate themselves and others on Vietnam and preserve its heritage. The organization holds events such as lectures, city walks and excursions available to the public.
HANOI HASH HOUSE HARRIERS www.hanoih3.com This big, assorted “family” gets together every week to go on out of town excursions, for hour-long runs along paths marked by flour spots, and with no lack of beer stops along the way. Drink and get into shape at the same time, and add some sightseeing into the picture. Emphasis here is on fun. Bus leaves on Saturdays from the American Club on Hai Ba Trung at 2pm in summer and 1:30pm in winter.
HANOI LITTLE LEAGUE BASEBALL www.hanoibaseball.com If you’re looking for a little league baseball team in Hanoi, this is the website to check out. One of the first, if not still the only, such club in town, their mission is to teach young people about the game, teamwork and to have a great time. Practice every Saturday at Xuan Dinh Field from 6.15 to 8.30 am
MASSAGE JUST MASSAGE 237 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 6671 2249 www.justmassage.org.vn Aromatherapy, Swedish, shiatsu and pregnancy massages all given by the hands and touch of nine visually impaired therapists. The massages here are professional and, of course, in aid of a great cause. Check their website for their range of promotions.
HANOI AESTHETIC INSTITUTE 14 Yen Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3945 4548 www.vienthammyhanoi.com.vn Trained at the Tue Tinh Traditional Hospital, the therapists at this no frills, traditional Vietnamese massage centre use a variety of techniques including tuina, aromatherapy, ayurvedic and shiatsu. Also offer a range of healing treatments as well as not-so-traditional laser and plastic surgery.
THANH GIA 18 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 38 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem One of a number of foot massage parlours in town that has treatments focusing as much on the pressure points of your feet at they do on the rest of your body. Strong hands, unbranded oils and, if you ask, tiger balm oil.
range of services in addition to manicure/ pedicure.
LINKQ 271 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3725 2359 One of a chain of all-purpose beauty salons that specialises in manicures and pedicures. This place has a lot of business from word of mouth, so it’s best to call ahead and make an appointment.
LANCY SPA
THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA
Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 sparec@sofitelhanoi.vnn.vn A five-star spa for a five-star hotel, this colonial-style centre of relaxation is pure luxury. Choose the genre of music you want to hear in your treatment room from a menu, select anything from themenamed facials through to traditional, Vietnamese-style massages, and indulge. It comes at price, but when you’ve just got to treat yourself…
57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 www.thucucbeauty.com This all-purpose beauty salon offers spa pedicures in a Zen-like atmosphere where your manicurist won’t be chatting on her mobile phone.
TOP SPOT 52 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8344 They offer a long-lasting, professional manicure and pedicure service for barely more than you would pay to get your nails cut on the street. The staff doesn’t speak much English, but they have an extensive menu to choose from.
PERFORMING ARTS HANOI CIRCUS 67 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung For VND50,000, see an array of live performances, both human and animal. Bears ride motorbikes, monkeys do tricks. The acrobatic performances are particularly amazing.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) www.hitshanoi.com Hanoi’s premiere community theatre group has been entertaining audiences around the city since 2001. The amateur acting society both draws from and gives back to the local community. All profits from the bi-yearly performances are donated to charities in Vietnam.
HANOI OPERA HOUSE 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0113 www.ticketvn.com This French colonial building hosts a packed schedule of cultural events throughout the year, everything from the New York Philharmonic to cutting edge Vietnamese performance art has graced its stage.
THANG LONG CA TRU THEATRE 25 Tong dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3665 54608 Head to this theatre, lodged on the campus of the Vietnam Revolution Museum, for a taste of one of Vietnam’s most traditional musical forms.
YOUTH THEATRE 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hoan Kiem A few blocks south of Hoan Kiem Lake, this community theatre space hosts both music events and theatre productions.
NAILS FANCY SPA 26 Dinh Ngang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 4183 A small Vietnamese spa and salon. Prices are quite high, but the shop offers a wide
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of comfort services and products. Facilities are clean and modern. Hairstyling also available.
SPAS KIM DUNG 38 Nguyen Cong Hoan, Ba Dinh Tel: 3483 50079 Face massage, hair care, manicure, pedicure, this is a one-stop shop for all sorts
35 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9461 This all-purpose spa offers the full menu: massage, nails, skincare at reasonable prices. Discounts offered to regular customers.
LE SPA DU METROPOLE
ORCHIDS SPA 34 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4862 www.orchids-spa.com Just a few steps away from bia hoi corner, the unisex Orchids spa recently one a VTV award for being one of the top spas in Hanoi. Treatments range from facials through to waxing, saunas and slimming treatments.
SANTAL SPA 112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 4686 Private rooms with showers, a beautifully designed interior, well-trained and professional staff. The place to go if you want to forget a busy work week, or the busy streets.
THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA 57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 Near Truc Bac, Thu Cuc is an allpurpose spa where you can get a full-body massage, a facial, manicure or pedicure in a relaxing environment. Both prices and service are comparable to the West.
ZEN SPA 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9889 www.zenspa.com.vn Brushing up against the banks of the Red River, this Indochine-styled day spa hideaway comes replete with an oasis-like bonsai garden and peace and quiet, a perfect tonic to the chaos of the city. Has a range of five-element spa packages as well as just one-off facials and waxings and other treatments. Has a second outlet at 100 Xuan Dieu as well as spas in Hoi An.
SPORTS CLASSES HOANG CAU SPORTS CENTRE 59 Hoang Cau, Dong Da Tel: 3511 8030 The distinction of this fitness centre is that they have a large space, filled with a “number of different fields of different sizes”. Includes areas for aerobics, football and rugby. Classes depend, according to the season.
RED RIVER RUNNERS www.redriverrunners.wordpress.com The Red River Runners meet every
Saturday to run through the fields and suburbs skirting the Red River in Hanoi. The group organises races, such as the annual Hanoi Triathlon and the Song Hong Half Marathon, which are community events that help to add a different, more social dimension to fitness and sport in the capital.
UNIS COMMUNITY EDUCATION UN International School, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org The UN International School is located between West Lake and the highway heading to Noi Bai Airport. They have great facilities and offer a number of different classes throughout the year.
TENNIS THUY LOI SPORTS COMPLEX 95 Chua Boc, Dong Da A wide sports pitch that also offers a swimming pool and a football field – if you get tired of tennis. Football fields are almost always crowded, but even for tennis it might be good to go during the off hours.
VAN TUE THANG LONG 136 Ho Tung Mau, Tu Liem A little bit hard to find, but Van Tue Thang Long offers quite a bit of room, with a sit-down restaurant and a few tennis courts. Facilities are a bit run down, but a place to go if you want to play tennis on concrete courts.
VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE TEACHING GROUP 164 Le Thanh Nghi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 7236 9842 www.vietnameseteaching.net Offers not only Vietnamese classes, but also a variety of excursions and events that will help foreigners and expats to better understand Vietnamese culture. Organised and professional, classes are usually sold in blocks, which you pay for in advance.
VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY B7 Bis, Bach Khoa, Dong Da Tel: 3869 4323 www.vnu.edu.vn/en This national university also offers some language and culture classes to foreigners. Teaching standards are high, and prices are not unreasonable, at around VND150,000 for a one-on-one lesson.
YOGA & MEDITATION UNESCO YOGA CENTER
3B Dang Thai Than, Ba Dinh Tel: 3913 5497 www.yoga.com.vn One of the only yoga studios in town exclusively devoted to the practice. Professional instruction with well-trained teachers, and a very low monthly fee.
ZENITH YOGA
Floor 3, 111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0904 356561 www.zenithyogavietnam.com A premier studio offering some of the best yoga, pilates and tai chi in town. Kids’ yoga, prenatal yoga and meditation are also available. Professional instruction along with a peaceful atmosphere creates one of the most zen places in Hanoi. Drop in classes are available for VND200,000 and a month unlimited class pass costs VND1.8 million.
leisure & arts
{ FOR The Record }
I
n which we dispatch our crack team of armchair critics to look at Pitchfork’s celebrated Top 50 list of last year’s albums.
NO. 32 Artist: Action Bronson/Party Supplies Album: Blue Chips In Brief: A horny AlbanianAmerican former chef from Queens going over to Williamsburg to rip bongs D: Sampling Aaron Neville, pretty cool. C: Don’t go defending this. D: This guy raps a lot about money. That’s kind of a sign of weakness. C: I’m interested to know what your moral code is.
** The Best of 2012: The Haters’ Review * *
NO. 6 Artist: Grimes Album: Visions In Brief: No one else is making music that sounds like this” C: There’s a song from the 1950s that reminds me of this — “Run run run runaway.” D: Or from the 1980s — “And I run, run so faraway.” The chick has kind of a lollipop, Candyland voice. Kind of like “I’m a Barbie girl, in a Barbie world” — but better. C: This really reminds me of Madonna, early synth beats. D: Damn, Pitchfork is weird.
NO. 9 Artist: Death Grips
C: Is this Thom Yorke? D: No… but this does sound a bit like Radiohead. C: Yea, the music isn’t as complicated but it’s still got that same ambient quality. You know when I was a kid Radiohead could really rock, but now they’re on those Casios. D: It is kind of ambient, moody background music. C: Please note that D is saying this with Oreo on his lips. NO. 1 Artist: Kendrick Lamar Album: good kid, m.A.A.d city In Brief: “it's deep-rooted, the music of being young and dumb”
NO. 23 Artist: Miguel Album: Kaleidoscope Dream In Brief: Body language like piano keys C: [commenting on song Pussy is Mine] This should be called “From my vagina to yours, by a man”. D: I bet you don’t like R. Kelly either. C: R. Kelly is a pretty big pussy, too. D: How about this song, it’s alright? C: What is it, RnB day?
NO. 10 Artist: Grizzly Bear Album: Shields In Brief: That hopeless tundra you reach when you’re at the end of your tether… the only definite things that remain are the contrasts between elements
Album: The Money Store In Brief: This isn’t just punk as radical individuality, but mysticism D: This feels like ‘music to have seizures to’. C: It’s way too syncopated to get pumped up to, but too “didi-di, di-di-di” to relax to.
D: It’s making me uncomfortable. C: It’s like, if you have a really hot girlfriend who’s also a mascot for some sports team. And you see her at work one day, and she’s dressed like a big furry bear, but you know she’s a babe under all that, and you’re just… confused.
C: ‘Bodies on top of bodies, Audis on top of Audis’… there’s a strange kind of symmetry here… D: I know! They go together for me. This is the kind of aesthetic I want in my hip-hop. C: But don’t you think he could have rhymed ‘Nissan’ in there? D: I think they’re too busy saying ‘poetic justice’.
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FASHION
near the Temple of Literature carries contemporary looks based on traditional Vietnamese styles.
visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive CONTRABAND 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem list of our listings Tel: 3928 9891
LISTINGS
ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 098 CLOTHING 098 LINGERIE 099 SHOPPING MALLS 099
SPORTSWEAR 099 TAILORS 099 OPTICIANS & GLASSES 099
ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR BOO SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3923 1147 This skateshop offers a variety of clothes, shoes and skateboarding equipment. Most of the T-shirts are made and designed in Vietnam, while the shoes and other equipment are made for export, often rejected due to minor defects. Staff is knowledgeable about Hanoi’s best skateboarding spots.
EURO FASHION SHOES
26, 84/16 Ngoc Khanh Tel: 0904153041 While you may have to dig through piles of mismatched or orthopaedic-looking shoes, this shop is full of hidden gems in larger sizes, a rare find in Hanoi.
EURO SHOES
320 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem If you’re looking for a diamond in the rough, head for Euro shoes, which has a wide selection of options, many of which you’ll want to give a pass. Often carries larger sizes than most Vietnamese retailers.
HANDMADE SHOES
18 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 5357 This cobbler’s shop repairs shoes and makes shoes to order. The staff speaks limited English, so it’s best to bring along your favourite pair to get copied.
HUONG’S JEWELLERY SHOP
62 Hang Ngan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 1046 A small store specialising in silver necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and pendants. While Huong’s merchandise is mostly silver or pearl, the staff will also make jewellery to order.
IPA-NIMA
73 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4000 Started by Hong Kong born designer Christina Yu, Ipa-Nima’s stores are filled with their one-of-a-kind purses and accessories. Their use of colour, a unique design philosophy and hand done embellishments appeals to jetsetters and fashionistas from Los Angeles to Paris. Always eye-catching and trendy, Ipa-Nima accessories are tangibly timeless and sophisticated.
KINH MAT HA THANH
2 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: 3928 6556 Large selection of lenses as well as biomedic contact lenses imported from the US. But buyer beware, lenses in Vietnam usually aren’t scratch-resistant.
LONDON DIAMOND GALLERY
21 Nguyen Huy Tu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4972 6327 www.londondiamondgallery.com Home to the world’s finest gemstones, master craftsmen and jewellery experts, London Diamond Gallery is among the most established jewellery houses in the world, with an international presence that spans across England, Japan, Hong Kong
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and South-East Asia.
Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.
EOS FASHION AND DÉCOR
Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen. Tel: 3824 4977 This boutique offers an exclusive collection of the French designer handbags and accessories.
45 Phan Dinh Phuong, Ba Dinh Tel: 3629 78574 The limited stock in this clothing store is made up for by the unique design of the pieces, which are refreshed by the designer every month.
THREE TREES
GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE
LOUIS VUITTON
15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8725 The jewellery on offer, designed by a Belgian expat, often features chunkier gold shapes with small, well-placed diamonds. Hidden in the back of the store there is also a display case featuring less-expensive costume jewelry.
TINA SPARKLE
17 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 7616 An eclectic assortment of costume jewelry and Chula dresses are scattered among a wide collection of bags by one of Vietnam’s most popular designers, Ipa-Nima. Check out the seasonal sales for heavy discounts.
VIETNAM OPTICAL
138B Giang Vo, Ba Dinh Tel: 3736 5505 This all-purpose eyewear shop offers free eye exams and a wide selection of frames. Usually there is at least one English-speaking staff present. The quick and easy service means you will be out of the store, lenses in hand, in an hour.
CLOTHING BEO BOUTIQUE
54 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8997 www.beo.vn The answer for women who struggle with the Hanoi heat. A locally owned boutique selling simple, unfussy clothing in light and easy to wear styles, perfect for when the humidity rises. Most clothing is made from cotton or silk, but they also have felted jackets for the colder weather. As well as off the rack, do custom orders.
BOOCITI
308 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 5426 www.booskateshop.com BOOCiti is a combination of shop, cafe and office. The successor to the famous skate shops that started out from meager roots, this stylishly designed location was opened in July 2011. Stocking the Boo label BoSua and more, the space provides its customers with a ‘unique’ shopping experience.
CALVIN KLEIN
19-21 Dinh Tien Hoang ; 61-63 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name then Calvin Klein’s lakeside store has got it pretty much sewn up. Underwear sits next to jeans going for around VND2.5 million and a range of quality CK shirts, belts and more. By Hanoi standards, prices are high, but think relative. VND5 million for an original, welltailored pigskin jacket is pretty good going.
COCO SILK
37A Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 1535 High-end silk clothing retailer located
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, el: 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-to-measure service are available at no extra cost.
GINKGO T-SHIRTS
44 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem; 79 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem www.ginkgo-vietnam.com An environmentally conscious and fairtrade company that offers unique designs and a quality product, Ginkgo t-shirts sport ethnic and modern graphics in a rainbow of colors. The company began in Ho Chi Minh City and now has five outlets around Vietnam. These shirts make great gifts or souvenirs, perfect for proving to disbelievers overseas that you’ve visited the home of the conical hat.
HANOI SILK
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 3062 www.hanoisilkvn.com Located on the ground floor of the Sofitel Plaza Hotel, this silk shop offers a highquality selection of ready-made items. The most popular sellers include robes, linensilk blend shirts, ties and jackets.
ISALYNA
1 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3762 4405 www.isalyna.com The retail outlet for local designer Teddie Tran, who believes that fashion is all about “attitude”. Accordingly, the store’s pieces are mostly basics that can be combined with a range of high-quality leather accessories and jewellery for a unique fashion statement.
KANA
41 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 6208 Reasonably priced handmade silk clothing and accessories in a wide range of patterns sized to fit western bodies.
KEN SHOP
108 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0256 A popular stop for silk lovers, this store is all about soft and light fabrics. Silk, cotton and silk cotton mixes in creamy summer colours or eclectic prints. Ken has a wide range on offer, from casual summer skirts to fancy dresses. A cute collection of toys made of cotton and imported jewellry and accessories are also for sale.
KENLY SILK
108 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7236 www.kenlysilk.com Instantly recognizable with its two-pillared
shop front, Kenly prides itself on professional guidance and high-quality materials from a design’s conception to finish. The shop caters to everything from fashion shows to personal designs.
KHAI SILK
133 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 4237 One of the better established silk shops in Hanoi, this store also has a satellite shop in the Sofitel Metropole. With outlets throughout the country, this household name is a great place to go for ready-made silk items. You may find better deals at other shops, but with the highest quality silk, at Khai you pay for what you get.
L’ATELIER
No 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3668 5509 www.ateliervietnam.com Designer store where Le Duyen Huong features her creations and matching accessories and shoes. The trendy shop exudes a pleasant and warm atmosphere and collections change often. Offers tailoring for local and export markets.
LUALA BOUTIQUE
61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 9899 www.luala.vn Close to the Opera House, this “concept store” dressed up as a spacious boutique and café is aimed at the luxury, lifestylefocused end of the local market. Has clothing and accessories for men and women and stocks the likes of Vera Wang, Nina Ricci, Elie Saab, Paul & Joe and much more. Also slated to show contemporary Vietnamese art. Check out their website for latest arrivals and their full range of brands.
MAGOON
19 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 9 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem A small fashion house with many outlets around the city, Magoon offers one-of-akind lady like fashions. They have a bit of everything from jackets and dresses to knitwear. The prices are affordable and the merchandise changes often. The main studio is on Au Trieu.
MARIE-LINH COUTURE
11 Nha To, Hoan Kiem 74 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Parisian-style clothing combined with quality Vietnamese dressmaking skills. The beautiful clothes are available in silk, organza and linen. Also available for online orders. With the accompanying home décor and accessories shop on 38 Hang Trong, it is possible to live an entire life of couture.
METISEKO
40-42 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem www.metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
MOON
111 Ma May, Hoan Kiem This small shop carries handmade embroidered linen and silk clothes that are usually less expensive than those found at the larger stores. The shop owners make most of the clothes themselves, so they will adjust designs to fit personal tastes.
NAGU
20 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem www.zantoc.com Walk past the rows of teddy bears and head for the small rack of clothing, which
fashion offers unique Japanese-designed dresses and shirts. The second floor has a selection of home goods. There is a loyalty program for frequent customers.
The three-storey shop offers everything from clothes and hand-embroidered baby pillows to sumptuous silk bedding.
NUNA NUNONG
61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1154 800sqm of elegant, modern space that offers one-of-a-kind pieces to add to your home furnishings or wardrobe. Located across the street from the other Tan My, one of the oldest silk and embroidery stores in Hanoi.
100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Racks of flowery frocks line the walls, and handmade fabric garlands hang from the ceiling. You will also find a wide selection of handmade goods, such as hand-painted mugs, totes and baskets of increasingly popular animal pillows.
PURE HEAVEN
55 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6290 If the classic storefront doesn’t draw you in, the clothing will. The Scandinavian showroom is clean and streamlined, emulating the modern but simple clothing contained within. Cottons and knitwear are the main focus in the European designed clothing for women and children. Prices are affordable and the quality is great.
SONG
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 6965 This boutique, whose name comes from the Vietnamese word for “life”, stocks high-end linen and silk clothes in a serene store awash with the fresh scent of mint. Located just across the street from the cathedral, prices are on par with its higher-end neighbours.
TAN MY
66 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1579 www.tanmyembroidery.com.vn Located in the heart of the old quarter, on “silk street”, Tan My claims to be Hanoi’s oldest silk and embroidery shop and boasts customers like Hillary Clinton.
SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
TAN MY DESIGN
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.
RUNWAY
13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 6260 www.runway.vn The second branch of the flagship store located in Ho Chi Minh City, Runway sells only authentic designer collections from all over the world. The large store located in the Sun City Building mimics what a designer boutique should look like, with an all white interior. If you are in need of a designer fix, Runway is your answer, but be warned, the prices match the labels.
SOLE 21
21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1968 A distinctly designed boutique around the corner from the cathedral, bringing the latest from European and American Designers. Think Jimmy Choo, Kate Spade and Top Shop. Mark-up seems high on some pieces, but all designers are authentic. No fakes here.
VINATEX
25 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem In-town factory outlet for the Vinatex clothing corp. Carries items for men, women and children at low prices.
LINGERIE ANA MAI
CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho This small boutique stocks lingerie similar to Parisian designers Agent Provocateur and Cosabella.
FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart.com.vn
AUBADE
52 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3822 9051 Pretty, lacy underwear imported from France. Carries mostly small sizes, up to a western sized medium.
MINOSHE
59 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem This popular store carries a wide range of bras and underwear. Additional locations in Hanoi Towers and Vincom Towers.
SHOPPING MALLS HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem
HANG DA GALLERIA
Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 9999 This small shopping mall is conveniently located in the centre of the Old Quarter, with all the standard small stores as well as a range of boutiques selling the wares of Vietnamese designers. The Highlands outdoor café is a perfect place to sit and watch the Old Quarter ebb and flow.
HANOI TOWERS
49 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem The retail space on the first floor of this complex includes everything from a golf shop to a hair salon. After shopping you can enjoy a cup of coffee at the Highlands Café or a sandwich at Papa Joe’s.
OCEAN PARK LUXURY MALL
36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0737 Shopping mall includes international designers such as Versace collection, Dolce and Gabbana, and Roberto Botticelli.
PARKSON
Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da www.parkson.com This Malaysian-owned department store prides itself on making the shopping experience one that is “more exciting and fun”. Unlike many of Hanoi’s retailers, this megastore is also appealing to those who just want to browse. Departments include men’s, women’s and children’s clothing as well as home furnishings.
PICO MALL
299 Tay Son, Dong Da Newly renovated mall housing international stores like French Connection, Nike, and Adidas. A touch far from the centre, but distance brings lower levels of noise and customers, making it a nice option for shopping spree. Also has a movie theatre, a Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf and a food court.
TRANG TIEN PLAZA
24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This large shopping centre located at the southern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake includes shopping options for every price range. Bargain bins full of locally-produced clothing stand beside a Nike retail outlet. Offerings also include a cosmetics department and multiple electronics retailers.
VINCOM TOWERS
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 9999 A shopping plaza offering a range of international brands such as Levi’s, United Colours of Benetton, Nike, Adidas and Geox.
SPORTSWEAR ADIDAS
83 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel:3828 7190 www.adidas.com The capital city’s flagship store of the international retailer of sport clothing and equipment.
B.BALL
65A Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da Tel:3224 10780 bball.com.vn This hoops-themed store sells balls, basketball shoes and jerseys of the madein-China variety.
HANOI CLUB GOLF SHOP
at the course.
TAILORS CAO MINH TAILORS
250 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3939 3594 www.caominh.com Located near Cua Nam street at the westernmost end of Hang Bong, this established tailor with over 50 years of experience specialises in quality materials from Italy and England. The go-to place for top-of-therange suits and shirts for all occasions. The shop is new and the service spot on.
CO
18 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 9925 Though this tailor offers both men’s and women’s clothing, the well made dresses displayed in the window and the range of bright colours and patterns caters mostly to female tastes. Located in the shadow of the cathedral, it’s a little pricier, but you pay for the view.
NGOC SHOP
64 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3943 4747 This English-speaking tailor located near the fabric market off Pho Hue offers a seasonal collection of ready-made designs. The owner will also copy clothing or sew from your own designs. Fabric can be picked out in the shop or you can bring your own.
MS TAM
Tel: 0989 098903 With a long list of foreign clientele, Ms Tam works from her home not too far outside of central Hanoi. She will pay a visit to where you live to take measurements and then bring the final clothes back a few days later. She also carries a book of fabric swatches for those who truly want to skip the shopping experience.
PHUONG LINH TAILOR
99 Son Tay, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 083674 Exceptional quality at very reasonable prices, Phuong Linh may not speak English but her and her team make every effort to understand the task at hand. From copying your favourite garments to creating something new or from a magazine, Phuong and her girls succeed in getting it right time and time again.
THANH HA
114 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Located in the heart of the old quarter, this tailor caters mostly to tourists, but a large collection of Vogue pattern books makes communication very easy.
OPTICIANS & GLASSES SUNGLASSES STREET
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com A small shop on the first floor of the Hanoi Club sells a range of equipment to fulfill your golfing needs, including clubs, balls and clothes.
Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name, well here its all in a number — two of them in fact, 51 & 58. Not exactly conventional opticians — the rows of shops here do sell frames with lenses and have basic eye-testing services — but if its sunglasses with brand names super-glued on top, here is the place.
NIKE
THU HA KINH THUOC
Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung www.nike.com With multiple locations open, and more to come, Nike retails high-end sports clothing and accessories, including yoga mats and water bottles.
TOLIA
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Also known as the “Russian shop”, Tolia retails overstock outdoor wear made for export. Brands include Jack Wolfskin, The North Face and Patagonia.
ZONE GOLF
Hanoi Towers, 49 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3936 3233 This centrally-located shop carries all the equipment and gear you need for a day
134 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3943 4570 Free eye testing in this well-known, German-trained opticians that also doubles up as a medical clinic and pharmacy specialising in eye problems. Sells a range of branded and no n-branded spectacles and sunglasses. Located opposite the National Hospital of Ophthalmology.
VIETNAMOPTICAL
48 Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung & 231 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 3736 5505 www.kinhmatvietnam.com.vn Chain of opticians, glasses and sunglasses stores selling a range of branded and Chinese-imported frames starting at VND100,000 a go and rising to over VND2 million. The in-store optometrist gives free eye tests. Helpful, English-speaking staff.
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visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings LIQUOR & WINE 101 MARKETS 101 PETS 101
BAKERIES DONKEY BAKERY
8 Nguyen Hoang Ton, Tay Ho www.donkey-donuts.com Founded as a donut shop, it now also offers a wide range of German-inspired breads for those who favour nutrition over sugar. A loaf of rye bread rings in at VND40,000. Donuts, breads, cookies and sandwiches can be ordered online and delivered to your home or office. The bakery employs mostly disabled persons and is dedicated to providing them with high-quality training and care.
KINH DO
252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem One of the oldest and most wellestablished bakeries in the city, maybe best known as Catherine Deneuve’s former haunt, Kinh Do has been around much longer than any expat. But their breads, pastries and quiches keep foreigners and Vietnamese coming back. Extensive Western and Vietnamese menu as well.
LE CROISSANT
21 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3943 6707 www.hoasuaschool.com A well established and well respected Hanoi institution. Le Croissant not only makes excellent baked goods of all kinds, but is also part of the NGO Hoa Sua, a school for disadvantaged children that teaches them life changing skills.
PARIS DELI
6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 6697 With two locations, one by the Opera House and the other by St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Paris Deli makes a good job of their breads, tarts and pastries. Both are sit-down restaurants, but are happy to sell you their baked goods over the counter, to go.
THU HUONG BAKERY
35C Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3868 A small but popular Vietnamese-style bakery selling all types of sweets and cakes, luxuriously decorated. They also sell baguettes and sliced breads. They also deliver.
CRAFTS CRAFTLINK
43 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: 3843 7710 www.craftlink.com.vn This non-profit organisation helps traditional artisans seek new markets. for sale in the retail space include handmade textiles from the northern provinces.
INDIGENOUS
36 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0977 799911 A crafts and home furnishings shop stocked by the Hold The Future organisation, which helps disabled and underprivileged children in Hanoi and northern provinces.
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MARIE LINH HOME DECOR
38 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0436 www.marie-linh-design.com This newly-opened shop sells specially designed decorative objects in traditional Vietnamese lacquer and pottery in unique styles. It also retails small accessories that are easy to pack in your suitcase. Items are sold in the shop and online.
MEKONG QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem; 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0473063682 Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
FURNITURE BAMBOO FURNITURE CORNER
Cnr. Quang Trung & Tran Nhan Trong, Hai Ba Trung This cluster of furniture shops offer lowpriced bamboo products from baskets and desks to drawers.
BELLIZENO
130D Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3825 1343 The factory location of the Bellizeno bedding company includes a retail space for their high thread count sheets and bedding.
CARPET STREET
There are a number of made-to-order carpet and rug stores along Kim Ma from roughly number 239 to 299.
CHI VANG
63 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3936 0601 Located near the lake, this store offers a wide range of embroidered bedding and tablecloths. Items can be purchased in the store or hand-embroidered to order.
COTYLEDON
1A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 7887 This shop stocks high-end duvet and cushion covers, quilts and tableware like runners and placemats.
DARLING HANOI
Tel: 01282 273717 info@darlinghanoi.com www.darlinghanoi.com Photowalls and Wallpaper of the highest quality. Create a photowall from your own image or choose an image from their large online catalogue. Inspiring and unique wall décor for private homes, offices and reception areas, hotel rooms and foyers, restaurants and bars. PVC-free, UV-resistant and moisture-resistant, all the paper is made in Sweden and shipped free within Hanoi.
DOME
10 Yen The, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3843 6036 www.dome.com.vn Internationally run furniture store with
three large outlets in Hanoi. They offer ‘affordable luxury’ goods such as pillows, bed linens and other home wears, in addition to making custom furniture.
industry, each branch sells trendy furniture for modern living as well as interior design for all types Vietnamese houses.
EUROPEAN IKEA SHOP
VAN LOI
35 Ngo Thanh Mie, Dong Da This tiny shop carries a small collection of IKEA brand furniture, but can order more from the catalogue.
GRAND BOIS
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This high-end wooden furniture store located on the first floor of Hanoi Towers has offered best-selling designs for a decade. The classic pieces are mostly constructed out of dark wood and are complemented with cream-coloured linen lampshades and cushions.
HANOI MOMENT
101 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 7170 This shop makes sifting through lacquer kitchenware and accessories easy. While its stock may not differ from the stores next door, the display is less overwhelming.
LA CASA
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 4084 www.lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.
MAI LONG
71 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 5393 This shop sells material for curtains and window blinds. They make house calls to measure and install.
MAROON
156 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 7264 Nestled in the heart of the old quarter, Maroon sells accent pieces to brighten up any household: lacquer picture frames, lamps, and silk bedding.
METISEKO
40-42 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem www.metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fairtrade, Textile Exchange.
MODULE 7
83 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 7247 www.module7design.com Open since 2002, this interior design firm and home store creates modern and simple collections. They use local materials and traditional craftsmanship for a cool mix of contemporary Vietnamese living spaces. Their showroom showcases floor to ceiling windows, which allows for a bright open design centre.
MOSAIQUE BOUTIQUE
22 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 6181 www.mosaiquedecoration.com Hard to miss, this bright green boutique blends Vietnamese traditionalism with modern flair. The result is a shop selling intricate lamps, lacquers and fun home wears. Handmade jewellery and crafts are also scattered around the store.
UMA
CT 6 My Dinh, Tu Liem; 147 Doi Can, Ba Dinh; 210 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3972 7412 www.uma.vn Designers and retailers within the interior
87 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 6758 www.vanloi.com This store is an impressive mix of fusionwestern furniture and home accessories. All furniture is hand crafted by artisans meaning top-end quality, but with price tags to match.
VELVET UNDERGROUND
Tel: 3716 0400 www.velvetunderground.biz This shop offers a range of ready made items, from bedding to hot water bottle covers as well as the option of designing your own item from a choice of fabrics. The friendly and helpful English-speaking staff make shopping a pleasure instead of a chore.
GROCERIES AU DELICE
3 The Giao, Ha Ba Trung, Tel: 3972 0584 www.au-delice-online.com A European style deli and grocery store with all sorts of imported products for your dinner parties or a homesick night in. Their claim is to have the best selection of cheeses in Hanoi.
BETTERDAY
100 A Xuan Dieu, Tel: 4258 3511 www.betterday.com.vn Hanoi’s speciality organic shop has a small stock of locally grown products including coffee, tea, cashews, a range of spices and beauty products produced in Sapa. Better Day Organics products are also available at the following stores: L’s Place, Oasis and Donkey Donuts
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
19/298 Ngoc Lam, Gia Lam, Tel: 3873 6079 www.classicfinefoods.com The place to go for imported foods such as foie gras, high-quality meats, pastas and dairy products. Although they specialise in the wholesale market, they occasionally do retail sales.
HUNG LONG MINIMART
71B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 6220 This little store around Westlake has the feeling of one of those small ethnic markets you find in London or New York, but the ethnicity is Western. Reasonably priced canned foods, potato chips, cookies and other snacks that may be difficult to find elsewhere in the city.
L’S PLACE
3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho; 34 A Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Cramped and crammed to the bursting point with imported food products, making your way around the maze that is L’s Place can often be a tight affair, but it’s worth it. The canned and packaged goods together with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and more can provide the dietary solution for anyone craving for a change from pho ga or bun cha.
NATURALLY VIETNAM
So 4, Ngo 67, Ngach 67/12 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.naturallyvietnam.com Owned by ASVELIS, Naturally Vietnam is the first and only food shop in Hanoi offering free-range poultry products with a sanitary quality in compliance with Vietnamese norms and close to the international standards of the World Organisation for Animal Health (OIE) and the Codex Alimentarius Commission (CODEX). Also has a wide range of organic, safe vegetables, and many other traceable food products made in Vietnam.
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ELECTRONICS CAMERAS A DONG PHOTO CO 128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0732 This camera shop retails a wide range of cameras, including both analogue and DSLR models, as well as film and accessories like flashes and lenses. ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418 This laptop retail and repair shop also carries camera accessories and cases. FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568 This small store has a wide selection of Viet Nam-produced Pentax cameras. Also has a selection of imported lenses. NGUYEN CAU 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem This camera shop overlooking the lake develops both digital and film prints. Services include photo mounting and passport photos. COMPUTERS AND ELECTRONICS DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772 This large electronics retailer deals in computers, printers, as well as external storage devices. HI-TECH USA 23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 6261 A small, but good all-around electronics store, selling all kinds of electronics. Speakers, I-Pods, headphones, cables and phone accessories. Many name-brands. PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This is a super-sized electronics shop with each floor devoted to a specific kind of electronics. You’ll be able to find pretty much anything you’re looking for here, from a phone to a computer to a washing machine. PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0983 011081 This service company can help with a just about any computerrelated task. Computer repairs, set up, Wi-Fi, design, networking and development. On-site and off-site service, and free quotes. VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771 Located on bustling “computer street”, this shop offers a range of computer accessories including keyboards and USB drives. They also do computer and laptop repair.
PUNTO ITALIA
62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 6258 3510 www.puntoitalia.asia Punto Italia is an authentic Italian supplier importing the finest espresso coffee as well as Italian coffee machines for professional, home and office use. Real Italian granita, ice-cream and much more is now available in Vietnam with the support of a professional and friendly service.
ROCK CANDY
28 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 6492 9597 Rockcandy.com.vn If you have a sweet tooth this store was made for you. Near the corner of Ly Quoc Su, Rock Candy specializes in the obvious, traditional rock candy. You can sample before you buy, and Rock Candy is available for weddings, private and corporate functions.
VEGGIE’S
99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 4719 4630 International grocer at the end of Xuan Dieu, Veggie’s remains one of the best suppliers of western foods in the city. Stock includes organic granola bars, frozen corn dogs and shelves full of cereal. When searching for baking supplies, this store is your best bet. Also, due to having their own farm in Dalat, sell some of the best locally grown non-standard vegetables in town.
VINE CELLAR DOOR
7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.
THE OASIS
24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.
YUKI’S
54 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6192 New on the scene, this grocer on Xuan Dieu has a large selection of fruits and seafood downstairs. Upstairs is reserved for a grocery store carrying western goods.
KITCHEN PRODUCTS KITCHEN ART
38/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 6680 2770 www.kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.
PUNTO ITALIA
62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 3510 info@puntoitalia.asia www.puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.
MARKETS
LIQUOR & WINE BACCHUS CORNER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.
DA LOC
96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 1325 This wine importer and distributor has over 250 different types of wine in its portfolio and is doing its part to bring a culture of fine wine to Hanoi. The main office and showroom is on Hai Ba Trung and an upscale outlet is located within the grounds of the Mercure Hanoi hotel on Ly Thoung Kiet.
HANOI GOURMET
1B Ham Long, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3943 1009 Not just a wine shop, the long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.
RED APRON
18 Yen The Tel: 3747 4889 15a Ngo Van So Tel: 3943 7226 28 Xuan Dieu Tel: 3719 8337 #6, Lane 1, Au Co Tel: 3718 6271 Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu Tel: 3823 8749 The retail face of wine distributor Celliers d’Asia, this small wine shop is in the French Quarter, adjacent to the Metropole. The focus here is on quality and the portfolio ranges from French to Chilean to the barrage of wines coming from Down Under. Delivery service available.
CHO HOM
Corner of Pho Hue and Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung One of the best places in the city to buy fabrics. Found a tailor, want to make clothes? Here you’ll find everything you need, stuff imported and domestic, silk, cotton, linen. Also any sewing materials you might need can be found here.
CHO SINH VIEN
Xuan Thuy and Pham Hung, Cau Giay The Student Market, across from Hanoi National University, caters to students. Mostly durable goods, clothing and accessories here. As far as style and size of clothes, selection is a bit limited, but if you take your time you may find something worth the trouble. The market, as well as the food stalls surrounding it, are open quite late. Prices are also tailored for the student budget.
DONG XUAN
Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem The biggest market of it’s kind in Hanoi, Dong Xuan is filled with pretty much any durable good you can think of: from jeans to jewelry, from leaf tea to livestock. The indoor market spills out onto the streets, which can also serve a good place to get a meal pretty much any time.
FLOWER MARKET
Au Co, East Side of Street The name can be a little deceptive, since it’s more of a distribution point, where flowers come in to vendors all over the city. Of course you can buy directly from sellers here at a good price, provided you’re up late enoug`h. The other reason to come is for the pho stands. The market begins late at night and continues well past dawn.
TAY HO WEEKEND MARKET
So 4, Ngo 67, Ngach 67/12 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.weekendmarket.org Set up in March 2010 and organised by ASVELIS, a French-Vietnamese company specialised in the provision of services for sustainable livestock development, animal health and food safety, around 20 retailers sell traceable food and beverages every Saturday morning to hundreds of Vietnamese and foreign visitors. In addition to food and beverages, visitors can also find various non-food items such as handicrafts, books, clothes and jewellery.
PETS ASVELIS VETERINARY HOSPITAL
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0439 287666 www.warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam's ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.
So 4, Ngo 67, Ngach 67/12 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5475 www.asvelis.com Founded by a French–Vietnamese couple who love taking care of companion animals, the ASVELIS Veterinary Hospital has developed from a small clinic into a hospital. In addition to dental care and basic laboratory test equipment, the pet hospital also offers boarding services, which are located in a pet-friendly environment in Soc Son, 10 minutes from Noi Bai airport.
VINE CELLAR DOOR
CITY ZOO
THE WAREHOUSE
7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.
114A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 6660 7749 www.cityzoo.vn Hanoi pet lovers take notice. A real pet store selling all your pet needs exists. City Zoo caters to dogs, cats, birds and fish. Dog beds line the walls at this small shop which also offers a range of imported pet food, accessories like collars and pet toys. You can even pick up a hamster while you’re here. Delivery is available on pet food.
February 2013 Word | 101
MEDICAL
fast service.
visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings
LISTINGS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 102 COSMETICS 102 COUNSELLING 102 COSMETIC SURGERY 102 DENTAL 102
MEDICAL 102 PHARMACIES 102 SUPPLEMENTS 102 VETS 102 COLUMN: TRAVEL NOTES 104
ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE DR. TRAN HUONG 80 Ngo Nui Truc, Ba Dinh Tel: 0913 540907 www.drhuong.tk Dr. Tran Huong is well-known in Hanoi thanks to his long experience as both a practitioner of traditional Chinese and Western medicine. The clinic treats severe and chronic pain with a variety of drug-free methods, including acupuncture, acupressure, cupping and moxibustion.
YAKUSHI CENTER Lane 28, No 6, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1971 The centre offers such services as acupuncture, massage and traditional Chinese medicine. One of their specialties is the hot rock massage. Run by Dr. Thuy, a qualified practitioner, the Yakushi Center has a clean and relaxing environment and takes a holistic approach to health, designed to take care of both body and mind.
COSMETICS PARKSON Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da One of the newer malls in the city, Malaysian-owned Parkson offers international name brand cosmetics. For those days when you feel like treating yourself, do your shopping in a real mall atmosphere.
TRANG TIEN PLAZA 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Stop here for everything from moisturizer to lipstick before heading upstairs to continue the shopping trip. Keep in mind, imported cosmetics don’t come cheap.
COUNSELLING INTERNATIONAL SOS VIETNAM, LTD. 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 www.internationalsos.com In addition to emergency healthcare, the clinic also offers consultations by in-house specialists, full counselling and psychotherapy services. Call to make an appointment.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3843 0748 (24 hours) www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice provides
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psychotherapy and nutrition counselling services by in-house specialists. For more information or to book an appointment, please call the clinic.
COSMETIC SURGERY NEW LIFE CLINIC 6 Nguyen Thi Thap, Khu do thi moi Trung Hoa, Nhan Chinh Tel: 6261 6166 www.newlifevietnam.comA small clinic that offers cosmetic dental work, skin treatments and minor cosmetic surgery. The on site doctor, Ms. Ha, was trained at the University of Southern California.
DENTAL AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC 3 Nguyen Du, Dong Da Tel: 3944 5216 www.nhahoaucchau.com A clinic with modern facilities and internationally trained dentists. The prices here are more than competitive than the other international dental clinics in town.
HONG NGOC HOSPITAL 95 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh Tel: 3716 3972 The dental practice is located on the first floor of this well-organised health clinic. The waiting time is short and the doctors competent.
ONE DENTAL No 8, Lane 27, Xuan Dieu,Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168 Providing quality dentistry in calm, relaxing environment it has an attentive and experienced mixed foreign and Vietnamese dental team who are there at all times to assist with any concerns.
PEACE DENTAL CLINIC 51a Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2286 www.peaceclinic.biz Established in 2001, it is run by an American dentist named Frederick. The clinic has a number of dentists trained in such places as Japan, Denmark and the Czech Republic – so the doctors are also fluent in many languages.
INTERNATIONAL SOS 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 24-hour emergency service with pricey, but international quality emergency and routine dental services. If your wisdom tooth needs pulling in the middle of the night, or you break a tooth, there are competent doctors and
PHARMACIES
ONE DENTAL CLINIC No 8, Alley 27, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168 www.onedentalvietnam.com Providing clients with the best in dentistry, the international standard One Dental also creates a calm environment where customers can enjoy their dental experience. Using the latest technology, the One Dental team is there all the time to assist customers with any questions they may have.
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi Tel: 3710 0555 www.westcoastinternational The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.
MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3843 0748 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.
FMP PEDIATRIC UNIT Van Phuc Compound, 298 D Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 5222 fmpkidshanoi@vietnammedicalpractice. com The Pediatric Unit of the Family Medical Practice Hanoi provides routine newborn and well-child checkups, updated immunizations and vaccinations, out-patient treatment and follow-up. FMP’s pediatric specialists provide professional consultancy from infancy to adolescence.
FRENCH HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da Tel: 3577 1100 The first international hospital created in Hanoi, and still viewed by some as the gold standard for medical treatment. Offering everything from standard medical and preventative care to surgical procedures. Full-service hospital that has both doctors and staff speaking good French and English.
INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.
H CLINIC 24T 1 Hoang Dao Thuy, Cau Giay Tel: 6251 2835 A clinic with a very large pharmacy that can fill pretty much any prescription you get in Hanoi. They also offer minor medical consultations.
NHA THUA VINH PHUC 625 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh While it appears to be your basic street pharmacy, this small shop front stocks some hard-to-find medicine.
SUPPLEMENTS AMEVITA SUPPLEMENTS Tel: 3759 2515 www.amevita.com.vn Sells high quality vitamins and supplements imported from the USA including multivitamins, probiotics, joint care, herbals, fitness and antiaging products. Free delivery in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Available online and at select retailers.
ULTIMATE NUTRITION Hotline: 0917 295091 www.allsportvietnam.com Protein supplements, high quality vitamins, testosterone, muscle gain and fat loss supplements for those looking for professional sports nutrition to help their exercise or training regime. Call the hotline for free delivery to your home or office.
VETS ANIMAL CARE 16 ngo 424 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 2246 1946 / 0978 776099 www.phongkhamthuy.com Locally-run clinic specialising in treating cats and dogs as well as providing a range of pet-care accessories, from animal food to clothing, toys and much more.
ASIAN VETERINARY & LIVESTOCK SERVICES (ASVELIS) 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3178 2779 www.asvelis.com English, French and Vietnamesespeaking veterinarian providing a range of medical services as well as grooming, boarding and certification for pet import and export. Also sells a range of pets toys as well as other products.
DR. BAO, MOBILE VETERINARIAN Tel: 0903 223217, vetdoctorvn@yahoo. com On-call, English-speaking veterinarian who does the rounds in Hanoi. Well-respected, knowledgeable and, according to the feedback, very funny.
INTERNATIONAL LABORATORY & VETERINARY SERVICES 31 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho District Tel: 3719 9994 www.vetsinvietnam.com A Vietnamese-owned small-animal veterinary clinic with English-speaking vets. Offers a range of healthcare and laboratory services as well as products for all animal needs. Products can be ordered online.
{ T R A V E L Notes} By Mark Bowyer
Mark Bowyer is publisher of the Vietnam and Cambodia travel guide — www.rustycompass.com. You can contact him on mark@ rustycompass.com
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If eco-tourism is the most violated word in Vietnam’s tourism lexicon, heritage also comes in for its fair share of abuse. Vietnam has a proud heritage and an impressive collection of heritage assets from the natural to the historic. Think Cham ruins, mountains and caves, Hue, Hoi An and Hanoi and of course, Halong Bay. So it shouldn’t be a surprise that heritage gets a good workout in Vietnam’s tourism promotion. But while new world-class hotels and resorts, golf courses and casinos, have been a part of Vietnam’s two decades of tourism development, heritage management has languished. Museums and historic sites have barely evolved since the cash-strapped 1980s. In Hue, the experience of real history — something that involves real textured characters and real events — has been subsumed by the Disneyfication of the Nguyen Dynasty Citadel. Other important Hue sites fade into
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Heritage Abuse
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Halong Bay, Vietnam’s showpiece eco-destination is a sad environmental story. While local authorities are no doubt focused on preventing further boat tragedies of the kind that have claimed far too many tourist lives in recent years, they would also do well to focus on addressing the pollution that blights the bay. More and more travellers are leaving Vietnam’s signature tourist attraction mesmerised less by its beauty than by the amount of plastic and other waste they see, and the treacherous bus journeys to and from the new wonder of the world. The hotel sector could be more serious too. A few beachside resorts have stripped back their in-room offerings (and their investment) in air conditioning, TV and refrigeration to burnish their ecotourism credentials. But there’s more to ecotourism than cost-cutting. Vietnam’s long term love affair with massive scale
highways would be a great start. There are small companies offering great tours for cyclists and some hotels provide some excellent tours. But there’s so much more that could be done with some official help. And cycling is a relatively easy ecotourism box to tick.
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Polluting the Bay
THIS HUE TEMPLE HAS SEEN BETTER DAYS. PHOTO BY MARK BOWYER
tourism developments — a good many of which never see the light of day — is neither eco-friendly nor in tune with a shift to boutique-style accommodation. The beach stretch from Danang to Hoi An is unlikely to win any ecotourism awards. And rumours of planned mega-developments on the fragile islands of Phu Quoc and Con Dao also spell disaster for the local environment. Cycling and walking are quintessential ecotourism activities. And Vietnam’s potential for both is begging for official attention. Providing you stay off Highway 1, Vietnam and cycling are a great fit. Yet bicycles aren’t available in many of the country’s most cycle-friendly places. And quality bicycles are almost impossible to find. The closure of Hoi An’s old town streets to motorised vehicles at prescribed times is a great initiative for walkers and cyclists. Brand Vietnam as an ecotourism destination would benefit greatly from similar initiatives. While travellers are jumping on bikes everywhere, most local authorities have done nothing to make cycling interesting and safe for visitors. Simple things like creating marked cycle paths and providing cycling route maps avoiding the main
anonymity. Travellers leave Vietnam’s former capital with no appreciation of the dramas that have unfolded there nor the amazing cast of characters that comprise the city’s story. No meaningful information is provided to travellers at Cham sites dotted around southern and central Vietnam. Former battlefields, colonial icons and even the recently opened Hanoi Citadel are virtual information-free zones. Like basic ecotourism measures, basic heritage measures are inexpensive. Providing engaging information about historic sites (any information would be a good start) can be done at little cost. Tourism authorities underestimate the power of history and heritage in international tourism. They also underestimate the compelling stories of the places they’re charged with promoting. Vietnam is rich with stories. But nobody’s telling them. Destinations ignore eco and heritage tourism at their peril. Golf, gambling, grog and hostess bars may be necessary tourism evils, but they do not make a sophisticated tourism industry.
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ravel writers commit plenty of crimes of the pen. I have a long list of my own. My worst was writing for a travel brochure more than a decade ago. I described Cambodia as a nation “finding its feet”. It was awful. It was thoughtless. And it was totally innocent. But it was in print — there was no turning back. But there's worse than thoughtless fumbles. There’s travel writing that sucks the life out of important concepts like ecotourism and heritage. Here in Vietnam, these words suffer especially nasty abuse. Ecotourism has been a tourism buzzword worldwide for two decades. It’s been done to death. But in Vietnam, only the most token effort has been made to embrace ecotourism practices.
** ENVIRONMENTALLY UNFRIENDLY * *
Nhạc Jazz soil & pimp
“Không để bạn phải chờ đợi lâu, Quỹ Nhật Bản (The Japan Foundation) đã khởi động năm mới bằng một dự án hợp tác với tổ chức CAMA để mang tới công chúng một bữa tiệc âm nhạc miễn phí. ”
104 | Word February 2013
Nhạc Jazz mừng năm mới Năm Quý Tỵ được chờ đón như là một năm xôm tụ cho những hoạt động hợp tác văn hóa vì nó trùng với kỷ niệm 40 năm thiết lập quan hệ ngoại giao của Việt Nam với nhiều nước. Douglas Pyper điểm qua những sự kiện đáng được mong chờ trong năm nay. Ảnh do CAMA cung cấp
C
ho tới năm 1973, nhiều nước trên thế giới hiểu rằng, những cuộc chiến ở Việt Nam đã đi đến hồi kết, và Việt Nam có thể tự hào với duy nhất một chính phủ hợp pháp hóa vai trò của mình. Úc, Canada, Luxembourg, Vương quốc Anh và Nhật Bản, tất cả đều thiết lập quan hệ ngoại giao với Việt Nam vào thời điểm đó. Đan Mạch bắt đầu sớm hơn cả, năm 1971. Năm 1973 được xem như là bước ngoặt lớn khi Việt Nam chính thức thiết lập quan hệ ngoại giao với nhiều quốc gia, điều đó đồng nghĩa là, năm 2013 là thời điểm để chúng ta tổ chức các hoạt động nhằm kỉ niệm 40 năm gắn bó bền vững với các cường quốc được xem như là con hổ của châu Á. Điều quan trọng ở đây là chúng ta sẽ có một năm với nhiều hoạt động sôi nổi với các sự kiện hợp tác văn hóa được tổ chức bởi sự liên kết giữa một số đại sứ quán lớn nhất và các tổ chức văn hóa trong thành phố. Là một trong những quốc gia có hỗ trợ đầu tư nước ngoài lớn nhất tại Việt Nam, không có gì ngạc nhiên khi Quỹ Nhật Bản cũng là một tổ chức thường xuyên hoạt động tích cực trong lĩnh vực hợp tác văn hóa ở Hà Nội. Các sự kiện đa dạng từ liên hoan phim đến những buổi biểu diễn nhạc hay nghệ thuât, Quỹ Nhật Bản đã không bỏ lỡ một cơ hội nào trong vài năm trở lại đây. Họ cũng thể hiện được đẳng cấp về chất lượng nghệ thuật của mình khiến nhiều tổ chức khác ở Hà Nội muốn học hỏi theo.
Nhạc Jazz Tử Thần
Không để bạn phải chờ đợi lâu, Quỹ Nhật Bản ( The Japan Foundation) đã khởi động năm mới bằng một dự án hợp tác với tổ chức CAMA để mang tới công chúng một bữa tiệc âm nhạc miễn phí. Ban nhạc được chọn là Soil & “Pimp” Sessions đến từ Nhật Bản, một nhóm nhạc jazz lúc trầm lúc bổng gồm năm thành viên kết hợp với nhau sau những màn biểu diễn ở các hộp đêm Tokyo. Sự kết hợp hoàn hảo giữa âm nhạc đẳng cấp thế giới với phong cách biểu diễn táo bạo ở các buổi biểu diễn đã làm cho họ nhận được sự yêu mến và lượng fan hâm mộ trên
khắp thế giới. Là nhóm nhạc yêu thích của Giles Peterson - nhà sản xuất nhạc của Anh Quốc, nhóm Soil & “Pimp” Sessions đã phát hành sáu album dưới nhãn hiệu Brownswood Recordings của ông. Họ cũng được mời tham gia chương trình Trò chuyện với Jools Holland (Later…with Jools Holland), một trong những chương trình âm nhạc được trực tiếp trên kênh truyền hình lâu đời nhất và được đánh giá cao ở Anh. Soil & “Pimp” Sessions cũng đã biểu diễn tại Lễ Hội Glastonbury. Như vậy, mọi thứ họ cần phải làm ở Anh cũng đã được thực hiện. Khi nói về âm nhạc của mình, họ gọi nó là “nhạc jazz tử thần” và có lẽ họ là một đại diện để mang những nền văn hóa khác biệt tới gần nhau hơn. Thương hiệu jazz của họ độc đáo, không đi theo lối mòn nào và được sáng tác nhằm xóa bỏ những chuẩn mực, dẫu biết rằng thể loại nhạc, những rào cản văn hóa hay cách tiếp cận khán giả là những truyền thống đã có sẵn. Họ chia sẻ rằng : “Chúng tôi thường cảm thấy rằng trong thế giới jazz, có một luật lệ ngầm rằng các nhạc sỹ khi chơi nhạc thường tập trung vào những kỹ thuật âm thanh trên sân khấu, còn khán giả chỉ đơn giản tới đó để ngưỡng mộ họ, một mối quan hệ đơn thuần máy móc giữa người cho và người nhận. Chúng tôi muốn phá bỏ luật lệ đó và tạo ra một thứ nhạc jazz sôi động và sự giao lưu nhiệt tình giữa người chơi nhạc và khán giả.” Điểm nhấn của ban nhạc này là anh chàng đầy nhiệt huyết tên Shacho. Tự gọi mình là “khuấy động viên”, công việc của Shacho là đảm bảo để mọi người đều biết rằng họ đang bị tấn công bởi một thứ nhạc jazz chết người, và sẽ không có chỗ nào để họ trốn khỏi được, buộc họ phải nhảy hết mình.
Nghệ Sỹ Trong Nước
Đại diện Việt Nam sẽ tạo thành một siêu nhóm đặc biệt với tên gọi Ngã tư Mất điện. Một nhóm gồm các nghệ sỹ jazz tài năng, họ đang hào hứng cho việc góp mặt trong một show diễn chung với ban nhạc jazz có phần điên cuồng đến từ Nhật bằng các bản nhạc đặc sắc của riêng mình.
Nghệ sỹ keyboard Phúc nói rằng, Ngã tư Mất điện không chỉ chơi để trợ giúp Soil & “Pimp” Sessions, mà đây sẽ là cuộc cạnh tranh tay đôi. Để giữ không khí cân bằng giữa hai nhóm nhạc này, sẽ có sự thể hiện của DJ GiGiMix, một DJ được ưa thích của Hà Nội. Anh luôn thể hiện một năng lượng dồi dào, khả năng khuấy động đám đông với những nhịp điệu electro-swing, funk và jazz,.. những điều này hứa hẹn sẽ tạo ra một bữa tiệc âm nhạc phù hợp cho mọi người do cho dù họ có đến từ những nền văn hóa khác nhau. Đây sẽ là một chương trình đáng mong đợi, nhưng chắc chắn cũng sẽ còn các chương trình lớn và tuyệt vời khác nữa trong năm nay. Theo một nguồn tin không chính thức cho biết, sẽ có một lễ hội âm nhạc quy mô lớn diễn ra tại sân vận động Trịnh Hoài Đức do một tổ chức của Pháp hỗ trợ. Trong khi đó, Luxembourg được cho rằng cũng đã có những kế hoạch của mình sau khi họ được biết đến qua hai đêm tổ chức hòa nhạc Francesco Tristano năm 2012. Nước Anh cũng không nằm ngoài cuộc chơi này vì chúng ta sẽ có tuần Văn hóa Anh dự kiến sẽ diễn ra vào cuối tháng 9, đầu tháng 10. Một trong những quốc gia đáng tiếc không có sự kiện kỷ niệm nào đáng lưu ý trong năm nay là Hoa Kỳ. Họ thiết lập quan hệ ngoại giao với Việt Nam năm 1995, vậy nên chắc họ sẽ có những sự kiện khiến chúng ta mãn nhãn vào năm 2035.
Buổi Biểu Diễn XEM GÌ: Soil & “Pimp” Sessions, với sự hỗ trợ của nhóm Ngã tư Mất điện và DJ GiGiMix
KHI NÀO: Thứ 7, ngày 2 tháng 3 Ở ĐÂU: Trung tâm Văn hóa Vân Hồ VÉ: Miễn phí. Vé sẽ được phát tại CAMA ATK,
73A Mai Hắc Đế, và Quỹ Nhật Bản, 27 Quang Trung. Để biết thêm thông tin về sự kiện này, các nghệ sĩ biểu diễn hay nhà tổ chức, hãy truy cập www.camavietnam.org
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Ho Chi Minh City air
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INSIDER — EXTENDED FEATURE
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With a smoking ban in public places due to be enforced in May and air quality a growing issue, we toured the city with a laser particle counter to test just how bad the air we breathe has become. Words by Nick Ross
e’ve just had a power cut and the rain starts. Within 10 minutes the phone rings. It’s 3.20 in the afternoon. “We’ll have to cancel,” says the voice on the other end. “The rain and wind is going to clear the air.” Silence follows. We had been planning this for weeks. With air quality such an issue in the fast industrializing cities of Asia — the pollution in Beijing is presently 25 times above the internationally accepted safety level — the idea was to see how Ho Chi Minh City is faring. Using the ParticleScan Pro, a laser particle counter that measures the number of particles in the air, we would go to a number of places in the city, both indoors and out, to obtain readings. This would in turn give an idea of pollution levels. But with the air clearing our original plan was going up in a haze of clean air. Yet it was an opportunity, too. Here was a chance to test how important the rain and wind, and in particular the rainy season is to this city and its air quality. As someone was to point out later on that day, “You should do this in March or April when it’s hot and dry. The readings would go through the roof.” Taking our chance an hour later we met at Ben Thanh Market — myself, Aron Szabo and his partner Rita Csontos — to see the other end of the air pollution scale in this city, a chance to measure it when it may even be within acceptable international limits. Despite taking almost daily readings, even Aron had yet to test the air quality after the rain had come down. As we discovered, on the roundabout opposite Ben Thanh Market during afternoon rush hour and at the end of a downpour, the air quality was
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Keeping it Pure
acceptable. Just. Around 60,000 units, the international standard set by WHO. Normally even in Phu My Hung, the area of the city that supposedly has the freshest air, the reading hits between 300,000 and 500,000. Without the rainy season the air quality in this city would be a mess.
Keeping it Clean
Improving air quality requires a broad range of measures that are beyond our personal control. However, there is much we can do ourselves if we want to take action. If you drive a motorbike, wear a facemask. There are now a range of products on the market — check out Saigon Scooter Centre (www. saigonscootercentre.com ) to see what they have available at the top end. Otherwise standard cloth masks are available at pharmacies or street-side cigarette and raincoat stands. For smokers, quite simply don’t smoke indoors. Especially in an environment with air-con. And if you live or work in an air-con environment, try to get the air circulating. This can be anything from opening the windows for a few hours a day to opening doors and creating some airflow. An alternative is to buy an air purifier for use indoors. Aron Szabo is the local agent for IQAir, a Swiss company credited in the industry for selling the best machines on the market for both residential and commercial use. Using a high-tech filtration and fan system, the purifiers remove ultrafine particles, the smallest and most numerous pollutants in the air. Including viruses, oil smoke, diesel soot, black carbon, smog, gas molecules, tobacco dust, bacteria, pet allergens and toner dust; these pollutants have the most negative effects on our health.
For further information email Aron on aron.szabo@bmscg. com or go to www.iqair.com.
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Described by the World Health Organisation (WHO) as “a contamination of the indoor or outdoor environment by any chemical, physical or biological agent that modifies the natural characteristics of the atmosphere,” air pollution is a growing concern. According to the Environmental Performance Index (EPI), a study conducted jointly by Yale University and Columbia University in the US, in 2012 Vietnam’s environmental performance was deemed to be ‘modest’ and ranked 79th out of the 132 countries in the survey. While in some areas — water resources, forest vitality and dealing with climate change — the country performed relatively well, the stand-out low performance sector was air pollution. Here the effect of air pollution on human health was ranked an alarming 125th. The impact on health takes
many forms. The pollutant carbon dioxide, for example, which comes from motor vehicle exhaust fumes, can cause headaches, reduced mental alertness, heart attacks, cardiovascular diseases, impaired fetal development and even death. The gaseous pollutant ozone is nearly as harmful, causing eye and throat irritation, coughing, respiratory tract problems, asthma and lung damage. Sulfur dioxide, which comes from heavy industry such as coal-fired power plants, petroleum refineries, the manufacture of sulfuric acid and the smelting of ores containing sulfur has a similar effect, causing eye irritation, wheezing, chest tightness, shortness of breath and lung damage. Then there is particulate matter (PM10) — dust, soot and other tiny bits of solid materials that are released into and move around in the air — which when inhaled can penetrate deep into human lungs and veins, resulting in cancer, asthma, heart problems and other respiratory diseases. It is no surprise, then, that an estimated four million Vietnamese are believed to have some form of asthma. Indeed, WHO estimates that more than two million people around the
world die every year because of air pollution. And with bad air quality so increasingly noticeable, it is no wonder that so many motorbike drivers in this city are wearing facemasks.
The Test Leaving Ben Thanh Market we head to a well-known local bar with indoor air-conditioning. It’s late afternoon so the establishment has yet to pack out, but nonetheless the reading is above 200,000. And this is despite the freshness of the air outside. We then put the laser particle counter to the smoking test. A cigarette is lit and placed close to the reader. Almost immediately the particle count rises — 700,000, 1,000,000 and then over 2,000,000. With the cigarette now out, the readings gradually go down again, but only as low as 220,000. The bar is starting to fill up, too, and its clear that despite the freshness of the air outside, the pollution will gradually increase. “You would expect the air quality inside to be better than outside,” explains Aron. “But it’s not. All air-conditioning in a closed environment does is circulate the air, keeping it within the same space. We spend 90 percent of our time indoors, which is why indoor
“WHO estimates that more than two million people around the world die every year because of air pollution”
air pollution is so much more dangerous than its equivalent outdoors.” To test this theory we decide to take a second set of readings. So we head to another wellknown bar which has an outdoor smoking terrace and an indoor air-con space where smoking is forbidden. The establishment also leaves their doors open. The difference is astonishing. Thanks to the air circulation the readings both indoors and outdoors are the same, around 40,000. All giving the old theory of closing doors when you turn on the air-con a big kick up the posterior. For good air quality, circulation is vital. “The problem is not being exposed to huge amounts of particles in the air,” says Aron. “The problem is not giving your lungs enough time to relax again. This is the issue with aircon when there’s no circulation. Your lungs don’t relax.”
No Rain, No Wind Two mornings later we head to Phu My Hung, the area marketed as having the freshest air in the city. There is no wind and it hasn’t rained in 36 hours. We take our first reading outdoors at the end of Nguyen Luong Bang, the outskirts of Vietnam’s equivalent to Singapore. Morning air is supposed to be fresh — it certainly is where I come from — but here it is anything but. The readings are between 300,000 and 320,000, five times the limit. We then move to The Crescent. Here it is even worse — 450,000. An air-con café for breakfast
brings the first eye-opener of the day. A man at a table behind us lights up a cigarette. From readings of between 450,000 and 600,000 the counter spirals, settling at around a million. He puts out his cigarette and the readings gradually go down, but only to 600,000. And that takes over 20 minutes. Second-hand smoke. We talk for a bit about comparing An Phu to Phu My Hung. Would it be better or worse? What about other areas of the city? Would it be possible in terms of air quality to truly work out the best place to live in Saigon? We also talk about measuring the air quality in hotel lobbies, at the bottom and top of a high-rise, and in the depths of one of the city centre’s basement food courts. But to take on such an approach we would need to set up a controlled experiment. This would require more than one particle reader and it would necessitate frequent measurements over a lengthy period at the same times each day. So instead we decide to focus on the smoking aspect and the forthcoming ban. Just how bad is the air in a busy, smoky bar on a weekend night? The results as we discover the next day are alarming. Our chosen, nameless venue fairs very badly, averaging between 1,300,000 and 1,400,000 during its peak period. It’s not as bad as the standard outdoor readings in Beijing — 1,500,000. But it certainly adds to the significance of the upcoming smoking ban. The question is, will it be enforced?
The Readings There are two accepted methods for reading air quality. The first measures the weight of fine dust, while the second, which we used for this article, measures the approximate number of fine dust particles per litre of air. The comparisons are as follows — the weight measurements are in italics:
0 µg/m3 to 9.9 µg/m3 0 30,000 10 µg/m3 to 19.9µg/m3 30,001 60,000 20 µg/m3 to 34.9 µg / m3 60,001 105,000 35 µg/m3 to 49.9 µg / m3 105, 001 – 150,000 50 µg/m3 to 99.9 µg / m3 150, 001 – 300, 000 100 µg/m3 and higher 300, 001 +
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The Final Say SOUND ADVICE / THE LAST CALL
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THE FINAL SAY
Sound Advice? Trip Advisor is the go to site for travel information on hotels, restaurants and places to visit. But with so many accusations of faked ratings and false reviews, can it really be trusted to give you the true picture? Words by David Robinson
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orums such as travelblog.org are full of reports of hotels given bad reviews under suspicious circumstances or long after the guest has stayed. Steve Kaufer, head of Trip Advisor, told The Economist in an interview “someone on your team should be reading reviews”, implying that Trip Advisor is a fair and democratic platform where everyone has the right of response. Yet any hotel owner will tell you this is not the case. A customer can submit a scathing and abusive review but in most cases the hotel’s response is denied publication. Anyone who accuses Trip Advisor of bias or allowing fake reviews to be published is immediately blocked from posting.
The Right to Judge Critics claim that many reviews are written by family members and friends, especially in non-English speaking countries such as Vietnam. I asked one contributor who was being paid to write for Trip Advisor whether he had ever asked for favourable treatment in return for a review. “Of course,” he said. “If the hotel is expensive I always ask for a discount and tell them I work for Trip Advisor. Sometimes I get a free stay. All I have to do is spend 20 minutes writing a good review.” Trip Advisor claims they have advanced algorithms to prevent fake reviews, but in my testing I found I was able to post a fiercely negative (but valid) review about
small or the room lacked air-conditioning, but hoteliers say that the bed size is made clear via either pictures or text and you get exactly what you are promised. If the room does not say it is air-conditioned then you should not expect it to be.
Fake Reviews With Trip Advisor allowing a business to be ‘guilty until proven innocent’, it is no surprise that a small minority will abuse the system. One proprietor I spoke to said that an extremely positive review of another hotel followed by an equally negative review of their own resulted in the two hotels switching places on Trip Advisor’s rankings. When he complained that he had reason to believe the guest had never stayed there and that Trip Advisor was condoning fake reviews, Trip Advisor punished the hotel by removing five of their top-rating reviews, pushing the hotel almost ten places down the list. The hotel was not given the right of response to the complainant’s accusations, which suggests that Trip Advisor view themselves to be above the law. Few advanced legal systems operate in such a way. Restaurants also come under the reviewer’s eye — indeed many locals are sometimes puzzled as to why some notso-highly-regarded restaurants manage to receive a high ranking on the list while others feature much lower. Some niche establishments receive a few positive
“Hotel owners insist that unhappy customers sometimes threaten to post a negative review on Trip Advisor if the hotel does not refund their deposit or change their room” a restaurant in under a minute with no verification done to even ensure my email address was real. Hotel owners insist that unhappy customers sometimes threaten to post a negative review on Trip Advisor if the hotel does not refund their deposit or change their room, or give them some other compensation for a perceived lack of service. Many of the complaints are unreasonable and petty such as claims the bed was too
reviews when they first open and then some very negative ones a year later, but still manage to maintain a very high ranking due to the low total number of reviews. These are the listings most easily swung by a single fake review. Take Ho Chi Minh City as an example. There are only a small number of Vietnamese restaurants highly recommended on the website while the top slots are heavily dominated by foreign cuisine. May
Restaurant and Cuc Gach Quan rank prominently as does Huong Lai. These are all good establishments, but there are many others that are equally as good or even better. For locals, the rankings don’t give a good overview of the city’s dining scene. In addition reviews are not categorised into different types of cuisine or price categories meaning that many excellent smaller restaurants disappear down the list in favour of larger, glitzier ones.
The New Wave The fact is that Trip Advisor is a for-profit company and they provide a soapbox for people to air their grievances and generate anger and dissent. The portal works on the theory that more reviews means more visitors and higher advertising revenue. This is borne out by the fact that the ability to respond to complaints is not their priority and email verification or CAPTCHAS are not used, which is unusual for a site that claims to be so determined to avoid fake reviews. The new wave of travel sites people are turning to are truly based on user contributions and try to focus less on “Was this restaurant’s service good on a particular day?” and just describe the types of food and culture you can find in a city. Wikitravel.org is well known as an excellent non-profit source of information on everything including culture, transport, hotels and dining. Rustycompass.com provides an enticing, magazine-style independent guide to Cambodia and Vietnam while travelfish.org assures readers that all reviews are genuine and scrutinized. The forum allows anyone to respond to reviews in an appropriate manner. While Trip Advisor is still number one on the go-to travel website agenda, for many it is either losing or has lost its edge. As one astute restaurateur in Hanoi has posted on their wall, “Have a complaint? Not happy with our service? Tell us first before posting it elsewhere.” While it might not seem on the surface that Trip Advisor has anything to gain from this guilty until proven innocent policy, it's important to remember that they are a profit-first company that make money from advertising. Just as you would turn to Medical Professional rather than a drug company for impartial medical information, so you should consider how biased your source of travel information is.
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the LAST CALL WHEN PLAYING A SET AND IT’S THE PART OF THE NIGHT WHEN THE ENERGY AND INTENSITY OF A ROOM FEELS LIKE IT’S ABOUT TO PEAK, THE FEELING I HAVE IN MY BODY CAN BEST BE DESCRIBED AS… a
million ants walking up my spine.
SOUNDS OR PLACES THAT INSPIRE FIELD RECORDINGS ARE USUALLY... anywhere I’m walking.
WHEN DANCING TO MUSIC THAT IS A COMBINATION OF DIGITALITY AND SENSITIVITY, PEOPLE’S BODIES ARE A COMBINATION OF… sweat and magnetic energy. THE BEST CROWDS TO PLAY IN FRONT OF… are the ones that didn’t expect this to happen.
THESE DAYS, TO PLAY LIVE INSTRUMENTS AS A DJ MEANS… that I’m not really a DJ. IF I HAD TO TRANSLATE TO A FIVE-YEAR-OLD CHILD WHAT IT MEANS TO LAYER MUSIC VERTICALLY AND HORIZONTALLY, I MIGHT SAY… that it’s like playing with Lego; you can
put bricks next to each other, but you can also stack them.
TO BE A MUSICIAN BASED IN BERLIN TODAY MEANS HAVING TO… struggle to find good
cheese.
THE MOST SPONTANEOUS PIECE OF MUSIC THAT I’VE CREATED… is Downshifters on the Automne Fold album. It was constructed only from bits of my own voice recordings.
THE TERM ‘EXPERIMENTAL MUSIC’ HAS BECOME… the joker card I’m putting out when I don’t want to say that it’s techno for the brain.
IN ALL THE REVIEWS AND COMMENTS I’VE RECEIVED, THE ONE I REMEMBER THE MOST IS… “This is almost as good as sex.” IN 2013, I WILL… try to finish my new album
and hopefully continue to play my music around the world.
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The latest in leftfield acts to hit the capital, Berlin-based ‘experimental’ musician Kangding Ray played a set hosted by the Onion Cellar at Hanoi Rock City in late January. Photo by Francis Roux