Word Ha Noi April 2013 by Word Vietnam

Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực Hanoi EDITION

APRIL 2013

community Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Động

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Contents

wordhanoi.com

april 2013

044

061

044

070

006 | The Prelude

columns

THE TALK

FEATURES

009 | The Big Five 012 | Exhibitionist

026

028

INSIDER 030 | A Philosophy You Can Sit In The remaking of

034

054

Hidden treasures just off Dong Xuan market

THIS IS London

Conquering the cold and exploring the quirks of ‘The Swinging City’

060

Muong Cultural Museum

A haven of ethnic intrigue in the countryside

062

Flying High

Overcoming a fear of heights in an extreme way

there are plenty of fish in the Japanese seas

073 | Street Snacker

Community

Our cover feature explores what the word means, and who makes it work

‘Made in Vietnam’

072 | Mystery Diner Diner X finds out

Market Day

Checking out the wares on ‘Bonsai Street’

018 | In the Papers

022 | Overscene

Of Art and Life

The influences in the work of artist Nguyen The Son

015 | The Buzz

020 | Calendar

064

Woman

Balancing love and kicking ass

068

A Street Cart Named Desire Exploring the clean side of street eats

Answer Key. From Group Quiz on page 37 1) Facebook 2) Canadian Club 3) Canadian Club 4) New Hanoian 5) Canadian Club 6) New Hanoian 7) Canadian Club 8) New Hanoian 9) New Hanoian 10) Facebook 11) Canadian Club 12) New Hanoian 13) New Hanoian 14) Canadian Club 15) New Hanoian 16) New Hanoian 17) New Hanoian 18) New Hanoian 19) Canadian Club 20) Canadian Club 21) Canadian Club 22) Canadian Club 23) Canadian Club 24) New Hanoian 25) New Hanoian 26) Canadian Club 27) New Hanoian 28) New Hanoian 29) New Hanoian 30) Canadian Club 31) Canadian Club 32) Canadian Club 33) New Hanoian 34) New Hanoian 35) Canadian Club 36) New Hanoian 37) New Hanoian 38) Canadian Club 39) Canadian Club 40) Canadian Club 41) New Hanoian 42) New Hanoian 43) New Hanoian 44) New Hanoian

2 | Word April 2013

056

Hanoi and Saigon are finally working together in the arts for the greater good

116 | Manor Life

Saigon's self-contained, Ciputra-like suburbs are not for everyone

FINAL SAY 120 | The Last Call

Meet the team behind HITS in the run up to their latest production of short plays

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EDITORIAL aaron joel santos Photo Editor aaron@wordhanoi.com

MADs monsen Art Director mads@wordhcmc.com

francis roux Staff Photographer francis@wordhanoi.com

douglas pyper Staff Writer douglas@wordhanoi.com

hoa le Staff Writer hoale@wordhanoi.com

rose arnold Staff Editor rose@wordhanoi.com

kaitlin rees Features Editor kaitlin@wordhanoi.com

nick ross Chief Editor nick@wordhanoi.com

ADMINISTRATION Duong Vy Bao General Director bao@wordhanoi.com

Le Dang Phuong Trang Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

ADVERTISING chau thi huong giang Sales Manager & Office Manager giang@wordhanoi.com

mark allan Graphic Designer designer@wordhcmc.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS hai@wordhanoi.com For advertising enquiries please call Giang on +84 934 640668 or Bao on +84 938 609 689 Special thanks to Derek Milroy, Ed Weinberg, Fabiola Buchele, Steve Jackson, Hai Vu, Adam Astley, Francis Xavier, Elisabeth Rosen, Huyen Tran, Nguyen Bao Ngoc, Khong Ten, FMP, Brian Webb, Shane Dillon, Mark Bowyer, Jimmy Thong Tran, Claire Driscoll, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Yeon Bin Kim, Ha Lim Kim and Stephanie Kim for their contribution to this issue. Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

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4 | Word April 2013

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

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In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 173-2013/CXB/127-217/LĐ ngày 06/03/2013 Quyết định xuất bản số 542/QĐCN-LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 06/03/2013 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2013.

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April 2013 Word | 5

The Prelude ChuyêN Đề du LịCh, ẩm thựC haNoi EditioN

aPRiL 2013

n the long and infinitely boring list of heavily repeated quotes, “no man is an island” stands out pretty strongly. It’s hard to argue with. People naturally group together. We’re social animals, and for whatever reasons we find bonds between each other and form groups. However, unlike the people that make them up, these groups or communities can very much be islands. Especially in Hanoi. This month, we look at some of the myriad communities that

make up this city. Whether a community is formed around a shared language, sexuality, a mutual passion, or even an occupation, the chances are that you identify with one or more communities in the city. We’ve tried to explore the benefits of belonging, show off some lesser known or hard to find communities and also take a light-hearted look at the language clichés found around the capital. Elsewhere, we’ve got all the

usual stuff you need to fill a relaxing hour at your favourite café. Find reasons to get out of the city in Daytripper, find places to eat in Street Snacker and Mystery Diner, take a trip to London and generally find out about the city you call home. As always, your feedback, both positive and negative, is what makes us tick. Feel free to express yourself to editor@wordhanoi.com. We hope you enjoy the issue.

community Nhà Xuất BảN Lao ĐộNg

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

INBOX Chula Big thanks to Rose and Aaron for the wonderful article! — Diego and Laura Framed I think my photograph was taken too close up and I'm actually much younger looking than I seem in the magazine. — CN Turntable Where are the mystery vintage records shop from the article 33 Revolutions Per Minute? — TL

6 | Word April 2013

Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us AT EDITOR@wordhANOI.com — we’re now at your fingertips.

Dog Meat Your article says dog restaurants are ‘hideaway’?! (The Phu Quoc Dog, page 31, March 2013). Not sure where your writer lives, but we live in Ciputra, Hanoi, and there are five dog restaurants right outside the gates. I own a Phu Quoc and they don't need special food and water. They also don't find it hard to adapt to a life of dependency on humans. Quite the opposite — they crave attention and suffer from separation anxiety when left alone. They need what every dog needs — a loving home where they are cared for and treated as a member of the family. If you can provide that and a bit of space/ exercise, then I can't recommend the Phu Quoc more highly. — MP

ChuyêN Đề du LịCh, ẩm thựC haNoi EditioN

maRCh 2013

Nhà Xuất BảN Lao ĐộNg

r hics cove Grap on the n tratio . — MD t illus th Grea this mon

April 2013 Word | 7

The Talk

Photo by: JD Hancock

thE big 5 / Just in / the buzz / calendar / overscene

Experimental Take Off Music in Hanoi knows no bounds

ecently while having a quiet evening coffee, I was shouted at by one of Hanoi’s more accomplished musicians who was rather desperately recruiting audience members to attend his upcoming experimental show. My response, “Ah, but there’s this other experimental music at a different venue that night.” A striking contrast to what it would have been two years ago. Suddenly it seems that experimental is everywhere one looks for music in Hanoi. From ATK’s regular Thursday nights to Hanoi Rock City’s occasionally packed bill, from Tri Minh’s annual Soundstuff festival and composer Kim Ngoc’s upcoming DomDom project, to the visiting NYC sound artist who came for Dao Anh Khanh’s spring spectacular and stayed for the scene. In this city, the sandbox for playing with sound seems to be ever increasing.

8 | Word April 2013

The Next Generation In April, the city’s biggest sound showcase Hanoi Soundstuff will be with us again. Now in its sixth year, the festival continues to grow, attracting increasing audience numbers, and more international experimental electronic musicians than ever before. The number of cultural institutions providing the event support also seems to be on the rise. It’s too early for celebrations, but it’s certainly a giant leap forward from the days when the very first sound artists like Son X couldn’t get feet in the door. While Son X gave up, people like Vu Nhat Tan and Tri Minh persevered. The result today is the beginnings of both an audience and infrastructure for the next generation of sound artists and experimental musicians like Luong Hue Trinh to enjoy. On a recent panel discussion with the

Vietnam Music Association, things got a little tense for seasoned experimental musician Vu Nhat Tan. The older artists in the group expressed their confusion and demanded an example to understand exactly what experimental music was. Not an absurd request. After playing a song, Tan said that the group was even more confused. Eventually the vice chair of the association Van Dung made the statement, “Music cannot be defined, it’s a feeling and everyone can have a different feeling.” The poetry of this statement calls to mind a similar metaphor used by composer Philip Glass: “Music is a place and you can go there whenever you like.” Maybe music is a feeling, maybe it is a place, maybe it is a language. Whatever music is, it would seem that this is Hanoi’s moment for exploring its different possibilities.

THE

big

watch out out for for this this month month Things to watch

Hanoi Soundstuff Festival 2013 One of the best events on the Hanoi music calendar is Tri Minh’s Soundstuff Festival. Now in its sixth year, the experimental and electronic music festival has been pushing the musical boundaries in Hanoi since long before the audience was ready for it. Taking place on Friday Apr. 12 at the Vietnam National Museum of History

(1 Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem) and Saturday Apr. 13 at Chu Van An Stadium (10 Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh, for more information go to our article on page xxx.

Living Cinema

Experimental Experience

Hanoi’s art scene is sending out invitations for a most contemporary play date this month, where the kids from the fringes are finally introducing themselves in an official manner. Dom Dom “a hub for experimental art and music” is being launched by Vietnamese musician Kim Ngoc, who is of the impression that the local art world is ready for a step towards the outlandish and unusual. Assisted by the ever open-minded Swedes and Danes, a concert which Dom Dom promises will “captivate audiences” will see international electro musicians collaborate with players of traditional Vietnamese instruments against a backdrop of visuals provided by Hanoi DocLab. This is just a first taster of what the experimentalists have in store for Hanoi — collaborations, fostering new talents and laying the groundwork for exciting new art forms to prosper. The concert will be held at Thuyen Quang Lake Theatre on Apr. 14 from 7pm. For more info about Dom Dom visit domdomhanoi.wordpress.com

Living Cinema is the work of San Franciscobased composer Bob Ostertag and Quebecois ﬁlm-maker Pierre Hébert. Their world tour has taken them to some of the finest international film festivals, concert halls and art museums since 2000. On their Vietnam debut in Hanoi, they’ll be performing a new work called Shadow Boxing. The work features a tuned and amplified boxing ring filled with toy protagonists who enact a tragicomedy about nature and technology. All the visuals are created live and include facets of the city in which the performance is taking place. On the spot animations, music made on computer game controllers: it’s cinema, but not as we know it. The Hanoi leg of Living Cinema’s world tour will take place at CAMA ATK, 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung on April 17. For more info see www. cama-atk.com

Short and sweet The acting crew from Hanoi’s International Theatre Society are asking if anyone fancies a quickie. Their offer stands between Apr. 11 and Apr. 13. They will accommodate 130 people on each of these evenings for Spring Shorts, a threesome of plays of the surreal, cheeky, dark variety. Each performance will have an after party to follow, with a different DJ turning the tables each night. So, if anything

with even the most distant relation to Shakespeare is not your thing, you can skip right to the dance floor portion. Or you could go home after the curtains draw. Or do both. It’s all very casual really. Tickets are available at VND150,000 (for show and party) from Puku and from sponsor Joma (West Lake). The performance will be at Chez Xuan, No 41 / Lane 76, An Duong, Tay Ho

Fabien Mary One of France’s leading lights on the jazz scene, Fabien Mary, will be playing in Hanoi on Thursday Apr. 25. Born in 1978 in Normandy, Mary is regarded as one of the most gifted trumpet players in France. Having received the coveted Django d’Or Prize for young talent for his first album Twilight (2003), he has since been nominated four times by the Jazz Academy for French Musician of the Year. He will be playing in Hanoi as part of a trio. The show will take place at L’Espace and doors open at 8pm. Tickets are VND120,000 (concessions VND60,000) and are presently on sale at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

5 April 2013 Word | 9

Just In

France-Vietnam Year Starts To celebrate 40 years of diplomatic relations with Vietnam, France is really pulling out the stops and it all starts this month. From a jazz concert with Fabien Mary in late April through to an electronic music show at Hang Day Stadium in October, the arrival of the Champs Elysée orchestra, ballet, dance, photographic exhibitions, gastronomic art and more, expect a veritable smorgasbord

of events and celebrations. And not to be outdone, there will be a reciprocal, back-toback celebration taking place in France in 2014, when Vietnam will take centre stage to show off their cultural and commercial prowess to the Gallic public. For further information of forthcoming events, watch this space. Alternatively, go to anneefrancevietnam.com for the full lowdown

Umbrella Tet Décor Cafe With the current shortage of coffee shops in the city, Tet Décor Café sweeps into the scene just in the nick of time. Offering freshly baked breakfast breads, cakes, and espresso, the café exudes homeliness. Amid the comforts of the space is a constantly changing display of art, with handcrafted originals from the workshops on site. The art products on sale are anything but hastily done, with a great deal of time and care going into each one. Visit Tet Decor Café in Villa 25, at area 1.3 Ha on Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho

10 | Word April 2013

New bar and art space Umbrella, in the heart of the Old Quarter, is holding it down in Hoan Kiem District at a time when it seems that nearly every new venue in the city is tagged with a Tay Ho address. With a raw interior space that incorporates the ideal amount of cement, wood and glass, the design is quite literally edgy with a tasteful finish. To kick off the first month of operation, DJ Spectrum will play every Saturday night, bringing in a London sound of garage and drum and bass. And with Absolute Vodka mixed drinks at 40k a glass, your wallet can stay as full as your ears. Check out the dancing and the mirrors at Umbrella on 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem

HANOI

TANNOY

Bridge of Paradise Luxury tour operator Oriental Bridge Travel has upped the ante on exquisite places to stay in Hanoi. Bucking the trend for being as close to the centre of the city as possible, the group have recreated an exquisite 18th Century, wooden, Hoi An style house on a 350sqm flower garden in Gia Lam. If you think that sounds out of your financial league, then the price — just VND1.7 million for two people — will make you think again. The same company has also just acquired

a 22-metre Junk which is the only vessel of its kind operating in the Halong Bay archipelago using the ship’s original sales for propulsion. This means it can go to bays which the standard junks can’t, and even treats its waste water before it is ejected into the bay. Let’s hope the example catches on. For more information or to make a booking see www.orientalbridge.com or email info@ orientalbridgetravel.com

Thanh Phong Returns After a few minor alterations to please the people whose job it is to be pleased with anything literary, Hanoi illustrator Thanh Phong this month released a second edition of his book that illuminates some of the more popular sayings in the Vietnamese language. Originally called Sat Thu Dau Mung Mu, the new edition entitled Phe Nhu Con Te Te, is a book of illustrations that brings out the rawness and colour of Vietnamese language and culture through a host of present day rhyming slang. Check out Thanh Phong’s book online at http://bookbuy.vn/ sach/16272/Phe-Nhu-Con-Te-Te-(Phat-Hanh-31-03-2013).html or look for it in your local bookstore.

Worth a Mint Trang Tien Plaza used to be Hanoi’s flagship mall of quality and international style. That was until people realised that it was still stuck in the early 1990s and that the levels of luxury expected by Hanoi’s elite had been considerably raised by the top end stores around the Sofitel Metropole. With that in mind, the grand dame of Hanoi shopping has received a comprehensive makeover for the best part of the last two years, re-opening in March. Trang Tien Plaza is located 22 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

If someone is not nuanced they shouldn't be given oxygen My friend is sad. In Vietnam, when the men are sad, they speak loudly Would you like some ChocoPie? No, men drink rice wine and beer only. Cakes are for women, women like you Right now I'm the tanned part about living in Southeast Asia Advertisement for a mattress: “warm like the inside of your mother” You can buy me a coffee but I cannot guarantee you a successful future I'm itchy but I'm still elegant Make a man-list and ask the universe for what you want Be violent with your instruments, but also be precise with them

April 2013 Word | 11

The Exhibitionist Instant Fashion at L’Espace Hanoi based photographer Boris Zuliani shows an ‘instant exhibition’ of Polaroid photos from Paris Fashion Week. In the age of retouching and rebuffing and snipping and thinning and enhancing, why use a film camera, especially at a fashion show where the point is for the models to look as unhuman as possible? According to Boris, it is “because instant film can't lie. With a Polaroid, you have to create the illusion in a fraction of a second, without any chance to edit the picture afterwards. Using digital, I would have lost the ‘real’ feeling.” So real that a stroll through the L’Espace exhibit is a bit like being transported out of Hanoi for a little while. Boris’s Fashion via Polaroid Photographs will run until Apr. 20 at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

Hanoi Soundstuff Festival 2013 Kicking off for its sixth rendition on Friday Apr. 12, the experimental music-based Hanoi Soundstuff Festival promises to offer a bit of what was on show last year as well as something a little different. Pushing the musical boundaries in Hanoi since long before the audience was ready for it, the yearly foray into the musical unknown has now garnered a dedicated following, and has become an everincreasing pull for international musicians. The festival is undoubtedly one of the country’s finest. This year’s programme is packed with quality international and Vietnamese artists pushing the boundaries of audio visual experiences. Spread over two days, the first outing is a sit down electronic event in the jaw-dropping surroundings of the Museum of History, while the next evening will see DJs from Germany, England, Australia and a host of other countries bring floor filling electronic dance music to Chu Van An Stadium. The event will also be supporting disadvantaged and disabled children via a collaboration with

Nguyen Dinh Chieu School for Disabled Children. Hanoi Soundstuff will take place on Friday Apr. 12 at the Vietnam National Museum of History (1 Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem) and Saturday Apr. 13 at Chu Van An Stadium (10 Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh). For more on programmes and artists go to hanoisoundstuff.vn

Hip Reggae Grime On Saturday Apr. 20, Hanoi Rock City will welcome French reggae / hip hop / grime live artist MC Kaztet to the stage. Kaztet’s arrival in Hanoi marks the auspicious date that some people mark as a religious holiday while others carry on with their regular lives. If you’re into it, come get down at HRC and remember what it feels like to dance in the clouds to music made under the ground. MC Kaztet performs at Hanoi Rock City at 27/52 To Ngoc Van on Apr. 20. The show starts at 9pm and costs VND50,000 at the door.

Gulliver For anyone who enjoyed the recent theatrical treats offered by TNT — Macbeth and Oliver — the UK-based theatre company will be returning to Vietnam this May with Gulliver’s Travels. Described by George Orwell as one of the ten best books ever written, Swift’s masterpiece sees the protagonist, Gulliver, travel through five worlds including the world of the little people in Lilliput and Brobdignag, the world of the giants. The stage version of this epic will be performed on May 8 at the Hanoi Opera House and May 10 and May 11 at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House. Doors open at 8pm and tickets can be purchased in advance from both opera houses (VND600,000 / VND300,000 concessions). For further enquiries email hoang.phan109@gmail.com at the Vietnamese Performing Arts Centre or Grantly Marshall on gma@adg-europe.com

12 | Word April 2013

Asia Celebrates Respect for Arts The United States Embassy Hanoi and CAMA Vietnam present the inaugural Artwork is Work: ASEAN Music Festival on Saturday May 11. A celebration of creative, Asian youth culture, the festival will feature bands from the ASEAN region as well as art and community groups from within Hanoi. Making their way to the festival are a host of top quality musicians all looking to showcase the sounds of their country. Festival performers include garage rockers Blood Sugar Politik (Myanmar), traditional Thai funk act Molam International (Thailand), the post-rock algorithms of Pulso (Philippines), Vietnam’s numetal heroes 18+ and genre-defying electronic

sound artists Muon (Singapore). Besides nonstop live music on the main stage, the festival will feature a creative arts market run by the Hanoi Flea Market and a visual arts centre curated by Hanoi’s Onion Cellar collective. As well as promoting pride in the cultural vibrancy of modern ASEAN nations, the festival is also intended to highlight respect for artists in Asia via Intellectual Property Rights (IPR). Artwork is Work: ASEAN Music Festival will kick off from 2pm on Saturday May 11 at The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tickets for the event will be available on the door priced at VND300,000 and VND100,000 for those holding a valid ASEAN passport

Classical April Spring is in full swing and it seems to be the season in which classical music is in full bloom. Evenings of live aria renditions and screenings of full-length operas should raise the excitement level of the more traditionally inclined music connoisseurs to levels of tres forte. The Metropolitan Opera is having a Verdi moment and will be screening their performance of Un Ballo in Maschera at AMC Pacific Place on Apr. 7 and Aida at UA Cityplaza on Apr. 14. Also in this series of live HD broadcast programmes will be the screening of Les Troyens by Hector

Berlioz on Apr. 20 at AMC Pacific Place. And weighing into this classical screening fest is Hanoi’s Cinematheque, who will be showing Cavalleria Rusticana by Pietro Mascagni and Pagliacci by Ruggiero Leoncavallo on Apr. 25. If live performance is what you’re after, then Apr. 17 is your date. Musicians from the Vietnam National Opera will be performing arias at Luna d’Autunno. More information about all the above can be found at themetinhongkong.info, lunadautunno.com/hanoi and hanoioperaguild. com.

The Desiring Garden Manzi Art Space presents the photography exhibition The Desiring Garden showing a series of works by Jamie Maxtone-Graham, an American photographer based in Hanoi. Produced within intense urban Hanoi, the images in The Desiring Garden are the record of a place that exists between the projected and the perceived. “The physical view of the people inhabiting the frame, observed within these embellished environments, is that of an outsider; of one who looks upon the scene — but not in — and, in turn, is unnoticed,” explains Maxtone-Graham The exhibition will run until Apr. 30 with an artist's talk at 3pm on Saturday Apr. 14. Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh

April 2013 Word | 13

OUR MAN

Photo by: ingermaaike2

BY STEVE JACKSoN

Comfy Slipper Time

he age when we’re officially adult is pretty much universally set at 18. In terms of actually being able to call yourself a ‘grown up’ there are differing views. At what age does maturity arrive? Perhaps 21? Or 25, 30? Statistics tell a different tale. For a British male, I’m told 37 is the point whereby you’re past the age where you’re most likely to kill yourself by being especially dumb. If you live past 37 then you should live a long time. Neither sex, nor drugs, nor a rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle are likely to catch up with you beyond this point. You’re all grown up.

Swing Low Looking back I quit smoking at 38, got married at 39 — I was only marginally behind the curve. I’m 42 this month. From a more traditional point of view, I’ve hit middle age rather than adulthood. Becoming middle-aged as an expat is quite an odd experience. At first you follow the code of blaming all change on either being an expat or on the weaknesses of your host country. I no longer knew what teh kidz were listening to because I was on the other side of the world. This of

14 | Word April 2013

course overlooks the fact I still have access to all the same media as they do. Returning to find UK youth looking like aliens could be dismissed as being out of the loop, when in actuality this particular loop was far from just geographic. Weird things happened. I got a job and for the first time didn’t automatically covet the position above mine. That kind of competitiveness seems no longer automatic. ‘I want’ becomes ‘this’ll do me’. If bright young things want to prove they can work longer, drink harder and live further beyond the edge, then leave them to it. I’ll try and get home on time, share a shandy and a rice supper with the missus, and be in bed by midnight. This is middle age, isn’t it? But maybe it’s Vietnam, too. Back when I provided consultancy for a couple of local small businesses their stated target was always, ‘successful but not too successful’. The inbuilt mechanism to keep their heads down was slightly more advanced than their desire to make the big bucks or be the big man. Aggression was something I always equated literally with fighting, but Vietnam has taught me that competitiveness is part

of that. Sure the capital has its fair share of ostentatious tosspots in their Aston Martins, but keeping a low profile seems altogether more Hanoian to me.

The Good Life When I returned to Hanoi for a second time, this time independently, it was quite a scary situation. Not just no job, no money, nowhere to live, but also no health care and ultimately no safety net. It takes a bit of fighting and a fair share of shouting to get noticed and make things happen for you. We don’t all have community liaison officers. That little slice of giving a toss, that embassies used to have, went with the last round of cuts. Perhaps they couldn’t outsource it to Bangkok. But I’m still here — not that much later — happily middle-aged, married, gainfully employed and I can feel little bits of Hanoi seeping into me. Life is good. Time to wind down the competitiveness. Time to join those with their heads down and their voices lowered. Time to take more moments to enjoy the view because life, albeit middle-aged life, is very, very good.

The Buzz You Cycle You Save A new campaign is looking to make way for the bicycles. Literally. You Cycle You Save is dedicated to removing barriers for bicycle culture and seeing a rise in the number of cyclists in the city. From Apr. 1 to Jun. 30, bicycle riders will be treated as royalty in participating venues, getting special treatment, such as discounts for purchases, for their special mode of transportation. To find out more information about participating venues for You Cycle You Save, check out MBike magazine’s website at www. mbike.vn

Science: Questacon

Hanoi Interschool Art Show Throughout April and May, eight international schools in Hanoi will be participating in the second annual Hanoi Inter-School Art Show. A mixture of student painting, photography, sculpture, drawing, jewellery, collages and other media, the exhibition will include 10 pieces of work from each school involved. Selected by each school’s art teacher, the exhibition will then travel from school to school, allowing students the ability to see works from a number of different young artists. The exhibit dates are as follows: Apr. 8 to Apr. 12: Concordia International School Hanoi Apr. 15 to Apr. 19: Singapore International School Apr. 22 to Apr. 26: Vietnam American International School Apr. 29 to May 3: Hanoi International School May 6 to May 10: Wellspring Bilingual School May 13 to May 17: QSI International School of Hanoi May 20 to May 24: Hanoi Academy May 27 to May 31: The Olympia School

The wonderfully titled Questacon — Australia’s national Science and Technology Centre — will be bringing interactive science to Hanoi on Saturday Apr. 13. The event is yet another part of a bumper cultural year in Vietnam due to the fact that so many countries are celebrating their 40th Anniversary of diplomatic relations. Featuring a broad range of themes to inspire youngsters from 10 to 14 years old, the festival of knowledge and curiosity will pique the interest of children in the fields of human biology, physical phenomena, simple engineering and mechanical concepts. The exhibition will be held at the Hanoi

University of Science and Technology (Ta Quang Buu Library, Gate 8, Tran Dai Nghia) on Saturday Apr. 13. Entry is free of charge. For more info go to www.vietnam.embassy.gov. au/hnoi/anniversary.html

Future Living Studio Open Day Take a sneak peek of a slicker, greener, more practical design future as imagined by six young product designers. You can read all about their collaboration at Future Living Studio on page 30 or you can just go see them yourself during their open day on Apr. 16. If there is no furniture ready just yet, perhaps there are plans of what the furniture might look like. What is definite is that there will be six designers worth talking to. Visiting hours are 4pm to 6pm on Apr. 16 at their work space, Room 507, 5th Floor in the Ta Quang Buu Library Building of Hanoi’s Bach Khoa University at 1 Dai Co Viet.

Hanoi Health Day Health and fitness. Two little words with the ability inspire, annoy, remind us of bad habits and are the cause of many a resolution. So why not make a day of it? Apr. 7 is in fact World Health Day and Bgarden fit’n’dance studio is celebrating. International health experts will share their knowledge, Naturally Vietnam will prepare deliciously organic food and drinks, and there is a promise of family friendly activities. Activities will take place from 11am to 3.30pm at Bgarden 68, Ngach 50, ngo 310 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho. More info can be found at hanoi-iwc.com or bgardenhanoi.com

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The Buzz { nerd Alert} ** Life Behind Glass * * Props Due to Don’s and Namaste

n this day in age, it’s not often that we find ourselves impressed with technology, but Google has done it again with Project Glass. This is science fiction reality, driven by a headup display — the type of projected-on-glass data screen they have in fighter jets. There are two options for providing this type of experience. The first would be a device in or on the eye itself, while the second would sit in front of the eyes. Google has chosen the latter option, with the prototype already released into beta testing. Google Glass is a revolutionary piece of technology that will provide virtually anything you need in daily life. The possibilities for Glass seem boundless. According to Google, Glass has the ability to provide GPS navigation right before your eyes, real-time language translation, camera capabilities and voice commands as easy as, “Okay Glass, take a picture.” Glass was originally scheduled to be released to the public in 2014, but after all the recent hype surrounding the product, it could hit the market by the end of 2013. And, as easy as Glass could potentially make your life, it isn’t expected to come cheap. The projected price is said to be around VND31.5 million (US$1,500).

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Rise of the Robots Google isn’t the only company making headway in this field. There are a handful of companies trying to break into the bionic contact lens industry. This would essentially be a nanocomputer that would sit directly on the eye. For the moment, the biggest obstacle to realising this technology is that our eye movement is so rapid that the focusing apparatus isn’t at a level to be functional for the consumer market. In 2011, the first functional prototype was tested on a live rabbit. The contact was in the rabbit’s eye for twenty minutes with no sign of irritation. The lens, consisting of organic and non-organic materials — to be biologically safe while containing complex circuitry — utilises an antenna to receive information, transmitting it to a one-pixel display. With recent developments, there are claims that the pixel usage has been increased from one pixel to eight pixel. Computerisation hasn’t affected our environments as much as 1950s sci-fi might have led us to believe, but it is starting to profoundly affect the ways we interact with them — if at all. We’ve slid the retina display curtain pretty far already, and Google and the other technovisionaries are selling us pretty well on never sliding it back. — Kyle Phanroy

Not only is Don’s Tay Ho one of the best places to eat overlooking West Lake, they have also recently entered the elite list of several top notch rating guides to Vietnam’s restaurants. Ranked by Miele Guide as a Top Ten Restaurant in Vietnam, they are now also on San Pellegrino’s list of 50 best restaurants in Asia, coming in at number 47, a real culinary coup. To add to the accolades, Chef Nguyen Van Tu has recently won both Iron Chef Vietnam and Iron Chef Thailand. Well-regarded Indian restaurant Namaste has also been reaping the rewards for good cuisine and even better service. Voted as one of the top five restaurants in Vietnam by judges working for the Singapore-based Miele guide, they keep company with the likes of Green Tangerine and a selection of other restaurants in Vietnam, of which four are based in the capital. Don's Bistro, 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi or call (04) 3719 2828. Namaste Hanoi, 47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or call (04) 3935 2400.

Fashion Exchange New face behind the Boot Hanoi Fitness Bootcamp is not missing a singe push even if their usual commander of fitness is taking a paternity break. Summer classes will be taken over by personal trainer and fitness instructor Karen Gay, who ensures the whipping into shape will continue. Bootcamp sessions are taking place in Tay Ho and Ciputra and you can find their info and schedule at beeactivetoday.com

Since three months is about the life span of a favourite item of clothing, the Fashion Exchange sequel is being held at the end of April. Well that and it is summer time now, so it’s time to prepare for the heat. Bring garments you have acquired since last time, or re-exchange what didn’t quite fit after all. Most importantly, bring your fashion sense, lofty fabric and a reduced amount of material to correlate with the rising temperatures. The rules of the game are the same: you bring some you take some. There will be finger food and drinks provided for VND50,000 per fashionista. The Exchange will be on the Apr. 28 from 3pm onwards on Exchange Café’s rooftop, 2B Ngo Trang Tien. For more info go to exchange-café.com

LaVieVuLinh Turns Five From the Apr. 27 to May 1, the eco resort 170 kilometers north west of Hanoi is celebrating its birthday and invites you to join. For five years, LaVieVuLinh has welcomed guests to its open-air getaway from the city. With a landscape to compete with the most beautiful in Vietnam, the spot located on Dao ethnic land is worth checking out, particularly for its sustainable tourism practices. For a fiveday package of VND2.6 million, visitors can have their pick of tours, activities, raft battles, volleyball and petanque (if that’s what you’re into). To make a reservation for the five-day celebration of five years in business, email info@freewheelin-tours.com or call (04) 3926 2743.

Photography Workshop in the Mountains Vietnam in Focus are running a special photography workshop in Bac Ha, Lao Cai on the weekend of Apr. 27 and Apr. 28. The group travel overnight by train to Lao Cai, and then by motorbike into the mountains for a traditional homestay with a H’mong family. The following day includes a trip by longboat up the Chay River, followed by a ride to Bac Ha town for the incredible Flower H’mong market. The two days, three nights adventure gives participants the chance to hone photographic skills such as composition, portraiture and the use of key camera settings to enhance their pictures. Tour leader Colm Pierce’s photographs have featured in numerous publications worldwide, such as The Guardian (UK), Le Figaro (France) and LA Times (USA). Vietnam in Focus have been running popular tours and workshops since 2012. The VND6.7 million cost includes all transport, accommodation, food and non-alcoholic drinks. Participants can rent a motorbike through VIF, ride pillion with a VIF guide, or bring their own wheels. For further info and bookings email info@vietnaminfocus.com or call 0121 515 0522 (Alex), 0122 435 1929 (Colm)

Red Apron Wine Fair Following the success of last year's rendition, Red Apron will be holding their second wine fair on Saturday Apr. 13 and Sunday Apr. 14 at their store on Da Tuong. Providing customers with an opportunity to stock up on wines being sold at discounts of up to 50 percent, the tipples on offer come from a selection of prestigious estates. Red Apron stocks over 800 wines from premium producers around the world and has one the largest selections of top-end wines and collectibles in Vietnam. The wine fair will take place at their outlet at 10 Da Tuong, Hoan Kiem. The store is open daily from 9am to 9pm.

Planting the SEED of Sight On Mar. 12, a contact lens room sponsored by SEED, the Japanese contact lens producer, was opened at the National Eye Hospital in Hanoi. Masahiro Urakabe, the president of SEED, Director Prof. Dr. Nhu Hon, members of the board of directors from the National Eye Hospital and Tomoyose Atsuki from the Japanese Embassy joined the opening ceremony. For the correct use of contact lenses in Vietnam, SEED also held a two-day training course for 30 doctors and staff members of the National Eye Hospital and the International Eye Hospital

DND. The course covered areas such as medical questionnaires, proper contact lens prescription and patient training. SEED is planning to have additional training courses for those two hospitals, and is looking forward to cooperating with many other hospitals in Vietnam.

Formula 1 in Singapore

Children's Book Fair This celebration of reading is taking place on the Concordia International School Hanoi Campus on Apr. 12 and Apr. 13, and includes over 600 titles from international publishing companies like Scholastic and Houghton Mifflin. Buying children's books can be tough in Hanoi, so make sure not to miss this exciting event that is open to the entire Hanoi community. See the Concordia Hanoi website for more information — www. concordiahanoi.org

It may be taking place towards the end of September, but with the popularity of the Formula 1 Grand Prix in Singapore, now may just be the time to book your tickets for the race that will take in the Marina Bay Street Circuit. To help with bookings, Exotissimo are on hand with early bird tickets on sale until Apr. 30. These include the following options: 3-Day Premier Walkabout tickets VND6,866,000 (instead of VND8,515,000) 3-Day Padang Grandstand tickets VND 8,515,000 (instead of VND10,226,000) 3-Day PIT Grandstand tickets VND 18,606,000 (instead of VND22,026,000) To book your place at the theatre of high-speed auto racing dreams, contact Ms. Thu on (04) 3828 2150 (Ext. 623) or email hanoiagency@exotissimo. com. The grand prix will run from Sep. 20 to Sep. 22

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In the Papers In the Papers

The Best of the VietnameSe Press

MGM Hits the Skids Vietnam’s first resort-casino project has hit yet another snag as MGM Resorts has walked away from its contract to manage the Vung Tau facility. The MGM Grand Ho Tram resort was a co-venture of MGM and Asian Coast Development Ltd. (ACDL), a Vancouverbased company. MGM subsidiary, MGM Hospitality, had been tasked with running the facility, but the development has been fraught with delays and cost overruns. MGM filed notice with the US Securities and Exchange Commission that it was exercising its right to cancel its contract due to the project having failed to achieve certain

milestones by Mar. 1. In November, ACDL defaulted on a contract with the Ba Ria-Vung Tau provincial government due to ACDL’s failure to meet construction deadlines. That led a consortium of Vietnamese banks to suspend funding of the VND3,675 billion credit facility. MGM’s withdrawal is a significant blow to Vietnam’s desire to tap into the Asia-Pacific’s lucrative resort-casino market. Malaysian casino operator Genting abandoned its own Vietnam plans in August after failing to convince the authorities to waive its ban on local residents entering casinos, a similar concern of Las Vegas Sands.

The Gunners Come to the Capital

Tablets, Smart Phones Muscling Out PCs The local PC market experienced a slowing-down of growth in the last quarter of 2012 and is likely to see an even poorer scenario this year due to increasing pressure from tablets and smart phones. About 680,000 PCs were sold in the fourth quarter of last year — the lowest rate for a long time, according to the latest industry report. IDC Vietnam’s market analyst Phan Thi Hoang Yen said PC suppliers and their distributors are now facing stockpiles of unsold PCs due to weak demand. While distributors and retailers have cut prices and introduced new models like the Ultra Slim laptop, people still seem to prefer tablets and smart phones. “In 2013, the price of Ultra Slim models will need to decrease further in order to compete with attractively priced tablets and smart phones,” she said. The economic recession was also blamed for the weak PC sales. Ah, that old chestnut.

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English Premier League football club Arsenal will play a friendly at the My Dinh Stadium in Hanoi on Jul. 17 with the Vietnamese national football team, according to local reports. An Arsenal representative insisted that The Gunners will bring a team of first-string players to the capital for the evening clash. The cost for the Arsenal to come to Vietnam will be covered by the sponsors Hoang Anh Gia Lai (HAGL) Company and Eximbank. HAGL has been a fruitful partner of Arsenal in the last years with the establishment of the HAGL-Arsenal JMG football academy and the advertisements of HAGL on the Emirates stadium of Arsenal. Vietnam Football Federation deputy chairman Le Hung Dung insists the game will be a 40,000 spectator sellout, while he

claims demand will triple that. The Arsenal players are scheduled to fly from Indonesia to Hanoi on Jul. 15, and join a charity activity the following day before the big game. Arsenal officials were apparently happy with My Dinh Stadium and hotels in Hanoi. No word on how they felt about the cabbies, though.

A Trip in (more than) a Million A British web company has begun marketing a two-year superluxury jaunt taking in the world’s 962 UNESCO World Heritage Sites for a cool US$1.5 million per couple. The indulgent adventure, if it comes off and a couple is crazy enough, will wind its way through 157 countries — your only worry is getting the time off and finding a babysitter. Travellers will be taken to Taj Mahal in India, Stonehenge in England, Egypt’s Pyramids of Giza, Easter Island, China’s Forbidden City, Machu Picchu, the Grand Canyon, The Lost City of Petra in Jordan, the Acropolis, the Vatican City and even Halong Bay. Australia’s 19 UNESCO sites will also be covered, including the Ningaloo Coast, the Great Barrier Reef and Kakadu National Park. The company behind the trip, VeryFirstTo.com, stipulates that all destinations must be “safe and pragmatic” at the time of visit. This would rule out Sudan and certain regions of Bangladesh and Indonesia. Accommodation includes luxury hotels such as the Hotel George V in Paris, the Plaza in New York, the Cipriani in Venice, The Ritz-Carlton in Moscow and the Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai. Guided tours of the sites are included in the price, as is a US$7,300 donation to UNESCO.

My Son Tourism Village Opens The central province of Quang Nam officially opened the My Son community tourism village near the World Heritage Site. The village is one the first steps towards boosting the central province’s ecotourism and sustainable tourism development programme by 2020. The village, home to over 200 people, will provide home-stay facilities and cuisine, cultural performances and eco-tours. “The province has set a target of developing its tourism industry so it can better contribute to provincial economic growth. The industry also helps to reduce poverty and create jobs for local people in remote and rural areas,” said vice chairman of the provincial people’s committee, Tran Minh Ca. He added that two more community tourism villages in Bhohoong and Dhroong —the mountainous district of Dong Giang —would open in June. The community tourism program has benefited from the Strengthening of Inland Tourism in Quang Nam Project supported by the International Labour Organisation (ILO) with total funding of VND27.3 billion. “The project has helped to improve local people’s incomes. Before, most of them made a living through farming, but now they have another means of making money between harvests,” said Nguyen Thi Huyen from the ILO. Quang Nam Province welcomed 2.5 million visitors in 2011, 40 percent more than in 2006. Last year that figure rose to a record 2.8 million, of which 1.3 million were foreigners, earning VND1.4 trillion.

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April CALENDAR MON

Hanoi, From One City to Another exhibition. Through Apr. 6 @ Livres & Co

TUE

WED

Massakory, a Village in the Sahel exhibition. Through Apr. 15 @ 21 North

THU Book launch of Vietnamese Contemporary Art 19902000. 6.30pm @ Goethe Institut

1 Jacqueline Hoang Nguyen, artist talk. @ Manzi (14 Phan Huy Ich)

Electronic Music workshop. 8.30am @ Goethe Institut

Sound Walk workshop by Hanoi Soundstuff. 8pm @ Manzi

Hanoi International Theatre Society Spring Shorts. Through Apr. 13 @ Chez Xuan

8 Last day of Songkran —the Thai New Year/Water Festival.

Future Living Studio open day. 4pm to 6pm @ Bach Khoa University

Hanoi Inter-School Art Show. @ Apr. 15 to 19 @ Singapore International School (46 Van Bao)

15 The Desiring Garden exhibition. @ Manzi. See Exhibitionist on page 13

22 LaVieVuLinh’s Fifth Anniversary. From Apr. 27 to May 1 @ LaVieVuLinh eco resort

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Features Editor Kaitlin Rees’ birthday. Check Facebook for details

Jazz of Fabien Mary. 8pm @ L’Espace (24 Trang Tien)

Last day to register with Exotissimo for Formula 1 Grand Prix in Singapore.

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhanoi.com by no later than Apr. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

FRI

SAT

The 12th Grand Cheese Buffet. Through Apr. 10 @ Sofitel Legend Metropole (15 Ngo Quyen)

Fashion via Polaroid Photographs exhibit. @ L’Espace

26 You Cycle You Save. Find participating venues @ mbike.vn. See The Buzz on page 17

DJ Spectrum. Every Saturday @ Umbrella (61 Ma May)

Soundstuff Festival. @ Vietnam National Museum of History

SUN

Questacon Science Exhibition. @ Hanoi University of Science and Technology

MC Kaztet. @ Hanoi Rock City.

20 Vietnam in Focus workshop. Through Apr. 28 @ vietnaminfocus. com. See The Buzz on page 15

Hanoi Health Day. 11am @ Bgarden (ngo 310, ngach 50, nha 60 Nghi Tam)

DomDom Launch. 7pm @ Thuyen Quang Lake Theater (Thuyen Quang Lake)

Tony Danza’s birthday! Happy 62nd Tony!

Skank the Tank. @ Chez Xuan (nha 41, ngo 76 An Duong Vuong)

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OVER SCENE OVER Invisible Lines The Onion Cellar continued to bring high quality, genre pushing international live music to Hanoi with another expertly curated event, Invisible Lines at Hanoi Rock City

Photos provided by HRC

Metiseko Fashion Show

Photos by Nguyen Bao Ngoc

Metiseko’s environmentally friendly and eye catching designs went down a treat with the fashion conscious at Angelina’s

Tokyo Jazz Club A whole lot of tail was shaken when CAMA Vietnam and the Japan Foundation brought Japanese ‘death jazz’ group Soil & ‘Pimp’ Sessions to the Van Ho Exhibition Centre

Photos by Nguyen Bao Ngoc

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Hanoi: David Shinn HCMC: Joel Garbutt

Green clothes, green flags, green beer and — one day later — greenfaced people. All the ingredients Moevenpick needed to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day

photos by nguyen bao ngoc

St. Paddy’s at Moevenpick

photos by nguyen bao ngoc

New Zealand Trade Commissioner Zak Cole made sure that all things edible from the land of the kiwi fruit were going to be paid for in the land of the Viet

M: 097 675 06 44 - david.shinn@alliedpickfords.com.vn M: 0122 514 1848 - joel.garbutt@alliedpickfords.com.vn

New Zealand Wine & Food Tasting

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Insider

market day / community / this is london / woman Photo by nick ross

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The Many Faces of Hanoi

Of Art and Life Family history and the streets of Hanoi have been big influences for artist Nguyen The Son. Words by Hoa Le, photo by Francis Roux

magine that the sea of Honda Dreams which flow through the streets of Hanoi were all taken back to Japan. Would you miss their presence? Or enjoy the relative calm? Returning the Honda to Japan is an installation work-in-progress by Nguyen The Son, artist and fine-art photographer. Son’s concept is to create life-sized formica models of Hanoians riding their motorbikes, often Honda models, and taking them to the streets of Japan. This interaction between Japanese motorbikes ridden by Vietnamese people in Japan will then be photographed. This thought provoking idea is one of many for the young artist who grew up in Hanoi. Through art, he tells stories of nature, society, and sometimes, of himself.

Family History In his most recent exhibition Houses Facing the Street held at the Geothe Institut last March, Son focused on city streets dressed up in the shiny outfits of giant advertisement billboards, complete with the adornments of sparkling lights and catchy slogans. Through his 3D installations Son wanted his audience to question what is behind this modern city facade. Houses on major streets, often worth a fortune, are often converted into stores that bring in large profits for their owners. But what about the history of those houses? What were they like before? Were some of them once attractive colonial houses that have since been renovated to match the trendy structures that maximise the profit of their fortuitous ‘facing the street’ position? Son himself was born in 1978 to a bourgeois (tu san) family, once owners of several grand houses in Hanoi. During the French colonial period his grandfather owned a profitable soap manufacturing business. As part of the post-war land reform policies of the 1950s, the family were made to hand over all their property to the public. “It pained my grandfather to lose everything,” says Son. “But if you think about it, you can see many houses in the city now that have been through this history and

hold within them a lot of great stories.” It was his own family history that sparked the idea behind Houses Facing the Street. Integrated into the 3D billboard models are the advertising slogans we absorb everyday on the streets. ‘Show your unique self’, ‘A new day, a new face’, ‘The pure beauty’, ‘European style beauty’. For the artist, they’re like “an endless poem flowing in our modern life which speak out people’s desire to have a permanent beauty and long lasting life. We all know that it can’t be true, but many still want to believe in it.”

A Contemporary Passion Son no longer uses only the traditional painting techniques he first learned in college. He has developed his interests in a more experimental way by combining installation, fine art photography, and occasionally the stage. Contemporary art from the early 20th century was popularised in the 1950s, around the start of the Cold War, when the world started to question the values of philosophy, life, politics, and of course, arts of the past. In Vietnam, that period was marked with war upon war, and the arts were chiefly used as tools for the war efforts. When fighting finally ended in 1975, the country took slow and conscious steps to recover and reconstruct society. Global ideas and trends were introduced to Vietnam in a careful and selective way. These historical events of the past have over time created a sizeable gap between the art taught in local universities and the wider trends happening abroad. In 2000, as a student of the Vietnam Fine Arts University, Son focused on lacquer and silk painting, popular areas of study among art students. The young artist only learnt of the concept of installation art when he enrolled in a brief course taught by a visiting artist from Germany named Veronika. Son remembers clearly the first assignment he was given in her class; everyone was asked to leave the classroom to work independently to create a piece

on the theme of ‘water’. The project was Son’s first piece using photography as he explored the state of lakes and water pollution in the country. He has continued to study contemporary techniques, moving to Beijing in 2008 to study experimental arts through a Masters in Fine Art photography at the Central Academy of Fine Arts (CAFA).

The Endless Experiment In a small but neat apartment on a busy street in Hai Ba Trung District, Son is excited to display his art, some which is finished and some still in progress. “Many artists who come back from studying abroad like me are challenged by the fact that what they have studied and been exposed to is not yet present in Vietnam.” Son explains that Houses Facing the Street, which helped him to graduate from CAFA, would probably not have been approved for a Master’s thesis in Vietnam. “It’s because there is not yet a policy or any official department in the country that acknowledges experimental art.” Born into a family of artists, including both parents and his younger sister, Son said it was difficult at first to share his enthusiasm for experimental art with them. “When I was studying in Beijing and people asked my father what I was studying, he often avoided the question and would generally answer that I was studying art,” he recalls. “He couldn’t understand why I was learning other things and not painting. According to him, an artist should paint, and only paint.” But those challenges no longer discourage Son. The artist has a strong belief in what he’s doing. “People come to understand, gradually. Just like my relationship with my father.” It was Son’s Houses Facing the Street with its themes of family history that helped his father to begin to understand and accept his work. Through it they found a common language with which to talk about art.

“Many artists who come back from studying abroad like me are challenged by the fact that what they have studied and been exposed to is not yet present in Vietnam” 26 | Word April 2013

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The Village

Market Day Huyen Tran takes a wander down â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Bonsai Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and finds the traditional spirit of Vietnamese life alive and well. Photos by Francis Roux

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oang Hoa Tham, its pavements filled with plants, greenery and bright blooms for sale, is undeniably picturesque. But it is more than that. It is also the site of one of the two only remaining cho phien in Hanoi. Cho phien, translated as market day, or fair, is an important part of traditional Vietnamese life still prevalent in the countryside. Only open on specific days of each month, the operational days of cho phien are worked out according to the lunar calendar. Before the seven-day week system was adopted, the Vietnamese divided the month into three 10-day periods, during which there were two opening days for each market. Opening days of each cho phien were different across the region and co-ordinated so as not to clash with each other. Market days were part of the ritual of life, very sociable and eagerly anticipated. People from different regions would travel to buy or sell at the markets. Cho Buoi (Pomelo Market), as the Hoang Hoa Tham Market is known, acquired its name because, according to a centuries-old myth, pomelos used to float down the river, ending up in this area. People used to collect and sell them there, so the story goes. The name stuck and the whole area, including the

market, became known by this moniker. Originally located at the crossroads between Hoang Hoa Tham and Duong Buoi, today that intersection is just the starting point. It now stretches along Hoang Hoa Tham all the way to the intersection with Van Cao.

Roots Despite the expansion, Cho Buoi still retains a lot of its original spirit. Like many cho phien in ancient villages, Cho Buoi is lined with goods on both sides of the street. In the case of this market the goods are shrubs, flowering bushes and pot plants. But what the market is particularly famous for is its bonsai trees, grown in the fertile soil of Hung Yen Province to the north of Hanoi. Cho Buoi’s opening days were traditionally the 4th and 9th lunar days, which is the 4th, 9th, 14th, 19th, 24th and 29th day of each month. Now the area is open every day so some of the excitement has inevitably been lost. Still, for many Hanoians, going to cho phien is an important part of their lives, and for some, a routine that will not be given up lightly. Cho Buoi is a place where people who are passionate about gardening and flowers

congregate. Many people who sell at the market do so for love as much as money. Certainly the profits are not large. Many elderly people sell gardening products here despite the small income that it generates. Along Cho Buoi it is not uncommon to see a woman in her 70s, shoulder poles firmly in place, selling some of her homegrown flowers. And the sense of doing it because they like it, not because of need, is shared to an extent by the ‘shoppers’ who come to Cho Buoi. Some come to buy; others come out of habit and for fun. On this market street, among the diverse collection of flowers and bonsais, is a little of the soul and excitement of the old cho phien.

The Pace of Change Uncle Hieu, who lives on Ngoc Ha, is a loyal patron of the market. “Cho Buoi is open from before dawn until noon,” he says. “I like going early to enjoy the peaceful feeling of Hanoi and the colourful and lively market along Hoang Hoa Tham. Sometimes I do not buy anything, but people here are always very nice. They talk to me about different types of orchards and pruning tips for curving the

bonsai.” To local Hanoians living around Hoang Hoa Tham, the market is a mirror for the changing pace and face of Hanoi. Duong Van An is one such mirror-gazer. “I am a regular,” he says. “Most of the time I come to see the subtle differences in each market day. Years ago, the market was smaller and people gathered in a very systematic way. Now, merchants just spread their products along the street all mixed together.” Although it is not like it was, the market still holds an important spot in the life of many Hanoians. Every month, people from all regions still gather for its specified opening days. And on the first days of spring, people go to Cho Buoi to buy bonsai, flowering plants or even some seeds to bring home and ‘grow’ luck and happiness for the whole year. It’s a custom that has remained a popular way to welcome in the New Year. There is a local belief that Cho Buoi will outlast all the transformations taking place in Vietnam, that it will still be here to accompany Hanoians, generation by generation, into the future. A little bit of tradition, beauty and ritual in a rapidly modernising city.

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INSIDER

A Philosophy You Can Sit In Future Living Studio has an ambitious vision of how product design could, and should, be in Vietnam. Fabiola Buchele meets the team behind the idea. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

he possibility that the ‘Made in Vietnam’ label may one day mean sustainable, eco-friendly, aesthetically slick and practical is the raison d’être of a new design project, Future Living Studio (FLS). In a shared space at Hanoi’s Bach Khoa University, a group of designers, three local, three foreign, will mind-map, design, troubleshoot and eventually emerge with a tangible vision for the future of Vietnamese product design in office furniture. The project, three months in duration, is being brought to Vietnam by 28-year-old American Shaun Jin as part of her PHD efforts at Telfs University in the Netherlands. Throughout the collaboration, the designers inhabit that exhilarating space that exists between the current reality and its possible alternatives.

Product The Reality There is a lot of the same, same with a dirth of difference. Trinh Mai Ngan, one

30 | Word April 2013

of the Vietnamese designers who loves Scandinavian minimalism, says her preferred aesthetic has little place in a country where heavy, wooden furniture still rules the living rooms. Chinese plastic is having a field day and people want what they know. “Vietnamese clients want things to look like a picture,” she says. “They say they want new and different, but when you show them a design, they say they want this or that [changed] and you have to redesign until it ends up looking the same.” She adds: “I have to earn money, so the French classical stuff is what I have to design.” The Alternative Jin and her French co-organiser, Astrid Hauton, want to explore what is possible within the realm of what may be perceived as Vietnamese. For Hauton this is “working with Vietnamese material and [trying] to innovate from the technique”. Finishing this train of thought Jin adds: “We want to

keep the aesthetic of the design Vietnamese as this will ultimately give the products validity.” The collection of office furniture being produced under the working title ‘Green Working’ will therefore have to strive to surprise with omnipresent materials like bamboo.

Process The Reality German Michael Schuster, the only man in the design team, started to see the ingenuity behind problem solving in Vietnam while his visa stamp was still wet. “People are engaged in unintentional product design all the time,” he says. “They find a solution in that moment and use it. They use what they have and make something of it. Like this guy I couch surf with, he made himself a sponge out of fishing nets to do the dishes.” It is perhaps these easy fixes that have created a disregard for the design process itself. It’s just something ordinary that

everyone does. You want a table, you attach a plank on four stilts and off you go. The Alternative FLS, though wanting to harvest this culture of recycling and not letting anything go to waste, have their eyes on the next level. “We want to create attention around design while working with both the companies making the product and those using it,” says Hauton. The work structure has three components, at the centre of which is the designer, or in this case, the design team. The designers are asked to research their clients’ requirements as well as possible manufacturers for the solutions they come up with. In the process, the team is hoping to turn the culture of almost thoughtless recycling into one of extraordinarily aware up-cycling and innovative use of ready available materials.

People The Reality There are few if any product designers in

Hanoi. The three women who make up the Vietnamese component of the design team all have an architectural background. The call for product designers was answered by only 10 Vietnamese applications, less than a third of the international applicants. The few designers in the city are faced with having to build an industry from scratch. “People don’t know the value of design yet,” Jin says. This needs to be overcome if a brand new industry is going to stick. And perhaps closer to her heart is the need to empower these designers: “Most of them are very young and lack power in the Vietnamese hierarchy. We want to build up their confidence.” The Alternative If FLS is anything to go by, it seems that the future of product design, or the very establishment of the industry, is firmly in the hands of women. The general consensus of everyone involved at FLS is that women in Vietnam are the ones that bring to the

table what a new generation of product designers need: a willingness to take risks, a tendency to look at the bigger picture and the ability to adapt to new ways of thinking. Not to say that boys can’t play at that game, but perhaps by learning the rules so early, these women may just be able to keep the glazier from putting that infamous ceiling over their profession.

The Project Hanoi is playing host to the third edition of this project. Two previous three-month collaborations have already taken place in Ho Chi Minh City. An open day of the work space and the progress will be hosted at Room 507 on the 5th floor of the Ta Quang Buu Library building of Hanoi’s Bach Khoa University at 1 Dai Co Viet on Apr. 16 from 4pm to 6pm. Info about the project, its sponsors and designers can be found at www.futurelivingstudio.com

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Q&A

Setting the Record Straight Kerry Long-Nguyen is something of a firebrand. And sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on a mission. Frustrated by the dismissal of Vietnamese arts in a range of publications on South East Asian art, Kerry set out to put together a tome on the culture that has fascinated her for over 30 years. Five years of interrupted labour later, Arts of Vietnam: 1009 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 1945 was published earlier this year. Douglas Pyper caught up with her, and received a damn good schooling.

WORD: There seems to be a tone of

anger in the book which appears to also have been its stimulus. I refer to the “disregard, omission, perfunctory handling” to which you feel Vietnamese art has been subjected and also its present status as “neglected” and “misunderstood”. Can you elaborate on this more?

Kerry: Frustration but not anger and

I’m surprised you see it like that. Certainly frustration at the absence of comprehensive literature on the arts and its development, especially when I first became interested in the subject this was so, and I can say that turned to exasperation as this situation remained unchanged across the decades. I am talking about the literature, general books on the arts of Southeast Asia, and museum catalogues. […] In the last decade or so I was often contacted by museum personnel from different countries seeking information about, for example statuary, embroidery, ceramics. It was clear a fog existed and a book on the subject was badly needed, and since no one was doing anything about it, I decided I should come to the task! At least it would be a beginning.

Word: You describe Vietnamese

art and people to be “intimate, accessible and emphatically human”. What leads you to this conclusion? I’m particularly interested in your description of certain artistic practices as “emphatically human” — can you explain this description?

Kerry: Firstly, let’s not confuse the arts, the culture and the people, what I am concerned with is the arts. I think your quote comes from the front flap of the book? If we go into this a little deeper and if I might quote from the conclusion, “Its structures — palaces, pagodas, temples, and dinh — press close to the earth and embrace the landscape; they are on a human scale, intimate and personal.” I am talking here about scale. If you have visited old pagodas, dinh, or the Ngo Mon Gate or Palace of Supreme Harmony in Hue, I think you will know

what I am talking about. I then went on to say, “This is the essence of its arts: genial, accessible, and emphatically human.” […] In the book my statement about being accessible should be read in the context of time and place. The arts were not so esoteric as to be beyond the ken of the ‘people’; they understood its language, although the message might be interpreted a little differently at a distance from the capital, as at village level. From what survives we can see the ‘people’ also participated in the making of the arts, the degree of that depending on circumstances. In the Mac period in the 16th century, for example, statues of the king were made and placed in small village pagodas, and even if somewhat farouche, the point is this tells us something about the king and his relationship with his people and their attitude towards him.

Word: Is it fare to say then that

Vietnamese art in the period covered was mostly influenced by religion and the whims of dynasties?

Kerry: Well I wouldn’t describe it as the whim of the dynasties. Most dynasties had a very clear plan about the direction they wanted the country to take, especially when founded, and the arts served that purpose (there was no TV or other media outlets to help with that), but within that there were a great deal of variation. Again if we look at the beginning of the Ly dynasty there was an urgent need to unite the different clans, and this was achieved with the help of the Buddhist hierarchy, and the iconography of the dynasty sent a clear message of this mutual support. However, at the same time artisans indulged in a good deal of creativity, and I think the results are quite ingenious. This idea of the arts serving the needs of the dynasty was of course not unique to Vietnam, similar situations also existed in Europe with regards to religion and the arts with both state and church as patron of the arts in different countries in different periods. Word: The book is divided

into clear historical and chronological eras — which

do you find most artistically interesting?

Kerry: The Ly, Mac, Restored Le and the

Nguyen Dynasty were all greatly interesting. It’s a tragedy that so much of Vietnam’s arts have been lost for all sorts of reasons and the gap this creates in knowledge is regretful. Let’s hope that from now on there are no more losses, and of course archaeology may yet turn up some surprises.

Word: You write in the book, “As

one progresses southward the cultural landscape diversifies; its arts, the product of a more recent process of cultural synthesis; a fact that presented interesting challenges in the pursuit of my objective”. Is it right to conclude that southern art is more diverse? Can you explain what the recent cultural synthesis was and what challenges did this pose for your work?

Kerry: The art of the Kinh anchored in

the river plains in the north is thousands of years old while 1753 marks the official beginning of Vietnamese administrative and military control of the far south. By this time this territory held Vietnamese settlers, Chinese refugees who were permitted to settle there after the fall of the Chinese Ming dynasty, as well as Cham and Khmer inhabitants. All these people lived in this land and so to write about the arts of the Kinh in the far south was more complex. Their relationship with other ethnicities had to be considered; in fact evidence shows artisans from different ethnicities worked together along with others who sometimes came from the centre and further north to work on specific projects. It wasn’t until 1802 that the geographical entity that comprises the modern nation was unified. So, you see, this southern part of the country was ‘young’ in terms of Kinh arts, and these Kinh were exposed to different sets of influences to those in the north. These Kinh had to be innovative in this different physical environment, climate, vegetation, etc. in which they found themselves.

“It’s a tragedy that so much of Vietnam’s arts have been lost for all sorts of reasons and the gaps this creates in knowledge is regretful”

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community â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Communityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is something of an enigma. We think we understand its meaning but when we look at it directly it goes blurry and becomes hard to pin down. There is no formal membership, members can come and go. It is more (or less) than a group of friends, but friendship is clearly a part. A community can change, its make up and shape can morph, yet the whole remains. Community and connections are an integral part of life in Hanoi. So, to get a sense of how it operates in our city, we have asked individuals from both inside and outside the mainstream to find out what community means to them. From people who have left their home villages to find work in the capital, to the speakers of a diverse range of foreign languages, to the elusive group of international footballers playing in the V-League. All have given us a sense of what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like to belong, or perhaps not belong. As social animals, when we live away from our usual safety net, our need to be part of something bigger than ourselves becomes even more poignant. In Hanoi it is no different.

April 2013 Word | 35

Be A Part of It Community and belonging, what it means in Vietnam and what it means elsewhere. Words by Rose Arnold. Quiz by Jimmy Thong Tran. Illustration by Claire Driscoll

hings, old people are known to lament, are not like they used to be. There just isn’t the same sense of community. And certainly it is true that in the west many people don’t know their immediate neighbours, let alone everyone on the street. The traditional ‘apple pie’ idea of community seems to be a thing of the past. We move often, families are scattered far and wide. And for older people the disintegration of ties and obligations has not been positive — they have fallen through the cracks. In the UK the main companion for five million older people is their TV, and one in five are in contact with a family member or neighbour just once a week. Shameful statistics that make me contemplate whether hard boozing and rekindling my love affair with cigarettes might not, after all, be a wise retirement plan. It’s so different here in Vietnam. My landlady is an old, at times cantankerous,

36 | Word April 2013

woman who never ventures beyond the courtyard, except occasionally to admonish the flower sellers for infringing on ‘her’ pavement space. Nonetheless she is the head of her extended family, receives occasional visitors and is the centre of much activity. Community is alive and well here. There are connections and obligations. Everyone knows everyone else’s business. “Where are you going?” the ten-year-old grandson asks me as I leave the house. “Where have you been?” he asks when I get home. Not that connections and intertwined lives are without their potential downsides. Communities can be interfering and gossipy. Insular. And for my landlady and her family, living at such close quarters to extended family members has resulted in an ongoing feud with neighbours across the courtyard. But whatever the drawbacks, they don’t mean we should forgo community or ties. The need to belong is widely accepted,

studied and commented on by psychiatrists, psychologists, sociologists. We have a need to be a part of something bigger than ourselves, a group which we matter to. For some people work provides a readymade social life and community. Others find it through interests — sports, activities, crafts, a love of street food — and meeting people who share their enthusiasms. Shared circumstances can be another strong reason to bond. And for foreigners who have left their home countries behind, and trusted they can make new lives, finding new communities is an important part of being happy here. Especially in Hanoi, where there is constant flux of people coming and going — you need more than just a few close friends because there’s a good chance they’ll up and go. You need to find the people and connections that will make you feel that Hanoi is your city, that you belong.

Group Together Looking for that perfect group? Jimmy Thong Tran has put together a little group quiz for you to get your teeth and your need to belong into. Some of the groups here are real and can be found on New Hanoian. Others were thrown onto Jimmy’s Facebook wall, meaning they’re either real or pretty real. And the final ones were whipped up as ideas over five glasses of Canadian Club. Can you decide which is which? Simply answer as follows: a) New Hanoian b) Facebook c) Canadian Club Answers are on page 2

Quiz 1) 20/20 “a group of 20 individuals from around the globe, with connections in Hanoi, who each contribute $20 per month towards a worthy cause” 2) Honkified Harlem Shake video Appreciation Club 3) Ketchuponmypizzasokissmyass Club 4) BJJ (Brazilian Jiu Jitsu) Hanoi 5) BJ Hanoi 6) Cat Addicted 7) Pussy Addicted 8) Eating Out is Our Hobby 9) Engineers God’s Chosen People 10) Evangelical Sex Tourists 11) The Soon-Yi (aka I Marry Women Younger than my Daughters) Society 12) Gay Guys Group 13) Good Mouth Feel (SMP) 14) Nice Guys Finish First!!!...Support Group 15) Hanoians Preparing for the Zombie Apocalypse 16) Hanoians Who Are Annoyed By Triangle Flies

17) House Husbands United (Hanoi) 18) I Don’t Bargain! 19) Fake Accents Fine Tuning 20) Facebooking for Emotional Support Club 21) So Bromotional 22) Taze Me Bro! 23) Humblebraggers “Omg so tired. Long day ahead but I know as soon as I’m on the boat my happiness level will increase 90%...hope to spot some killer whales!” 24) Let’s Get Pampered Ladies Spoil Ourselves 25) Mums to Be and New Mums 26) Dads to Be New Bums 27) Only a Life Lived for Others is a Life Worthwhile 28) Pilots Wives Club 29) Pride and Prejudice “for dreamers who still believe in real love” 30) Cheating Wives and the Husbands Who Are Too Busy Playing Online Poker to Notice Forum

31) Dildo Dilly-Dallers 32) No Seriously, Dubstep All Sounds the Same 33) Recycle an Old Motorbike and Give it Away to Someone in More Need Than You 34) The Susan Boyle Experience 35) That’s What Abortions Are For 36) Thit Cho Fanclub 37) Tieng Viet WhaWhat 38) The Lovely Rejects (Judy Phu!) 39) I’m a Foodie aka I Want Some Xuc Xich Dan Toc 40) UltraMasculineClosetCases Anonymous 41) Vietnamers in Pajamas (AKA Hanoians Who Work From Home) 42) Vicenzo Evil Incorporated 43) What I Now Know 44) Wordpress Development Theme Group

Scoring So, how many did you get correct? Are you a true groupie or are you a Norman No Mates? Below is the key to the scores. 41 — 43 You’re a rock star. You shouldn’t have to work. You should just sit there, while multiple revenue streams flourish around you, just because, you are you.

20 — 40 You’re marriage material. Someone in Hanoi wants to have a baby with you right now. Go find them!

0 — 19 You’re a failure in life. If you’re not one now, you’re on the verge of unbecoming. You should just go out there right now and get injured, just so you can have something interesting to talk about, to give you some meaning to your otherwise hollow, meandering life.

April 2013 Word | 37

Tenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Company 38 | Word April 2013

Living in cramped conditions and eeking out a living, the life of Hanoi’s labourer class is tough. Hai Vu meets a community of Nam Dinh migrants who are making ends meet in the capital

own a narrow alley on Bui Ngoc Duong sits a small unassuming house. The walls are cracking and there are signs of water damage along its roof. Inside of this tiny dwelling you’ll find a row of beds. A ladder on the far corner leads to a loft, which is also lined with mats for sleeping. The bathroom and kitchen facilities lie adjacent to each other outside of the house. A space this small, which was intended for two, now houses five times that. Thao, age 29, calls this place home — as do her husband and eight other people. This close-knit group, comprised of hard labourers, live, work, eat and sleep together in these cramped confines. To achieve some semblance of privacy, numerous curtains are suspended in the sleeping areas. These thin fabric walls can only loosely create the illusion of ‘rooms’, but they do not instill any real sense of separation. Comfort is not always a necessity when times are tough. “The 10 of us made a plan together to move here five years ago,” Thao explains. They left their relatively quiet lives in the small town of Xuan Truong, in Nam Dinh, lured to the harried life of Hanoi in search of a more promising future.

Vietnamese carrying pole and basket worn over the shoulder. Thao walks the same 20km route every day through Hai Ba Trung District. A handful of simple tools, including a hammer, a screwdriver and a scale are also in tow. Any and all discarded glass, plastic bottles, aluminum cans and scraps of paper are ripe for the picking. By the late afternoon she sells what she has collected to a local recycling agency. The prices change daily, so she must know how to negotiate for the best wages. The average rate is VND5,000 for a kilogram of plastic. At that rate, full days of backbreaking labour are not always enough to pay

Hard Yards

the bills. Thao and her husband must supplement their daytime income with additional jobs to afford their share of the communal expenses. Thao moonlights scrubbing and cleaning houses, while her husband finds cast-off electronics and repairs them for resale. Whatever extra money they do make is sent home to support Thao’s mother and the couple’s two children, agesd 10 and 13, who are living in their grandmother’s care. “You have to work in the bigger cities to make any reasonable amount of money to take care of your family back home,” Thao

Presently Thao and her husband work as dong nat, which means they spend their days scouring the city for discarded scrap metal, plastic goods and anything else they can sell to the local recycling plant for a profit. The act of dumpster-diving for goods to sell is a much needed, albeit undesired, occupation in Vietnam. It employs thousands of people and acts as the city’s only organised recycling collection programme. A typical day for Thao starts at 6am. She dons the ganh hang rong, a traditional

“She makes sure to see her family every few months, but it is at a cost. ‘Every day not working is money lost. But seeing my children is more important’”

explains. “My children cannot come with me because they still have to go to school in Nam Dinh. We can’t afford to send them to school in Hanoi. When they turn 18 and pass their university test, they will come here to study. We are saving for that now.”

Communion and Reunion When the working day is done, everyone in the household pitches in to cook the nightly dinner. On the evening of my visit, rice, vegetable soup and boiled eggs were on the menu. While sitting in a circle on the floor, the group devoured this hearty meal quickly. In between bites, this makeshift family of ten engaged in light-hearted conversation about the day. The atmosphere became electric, however, when talk of the mundane turned to hometown visits, family left behind, and other matters of the heart. “I recently took the two-hour bus ride home to visit family over the Tet,” Thao says. Her face lights up when talking about it. She makes sure to see her family every few months, but it is at a cost. “Every day not working is money lost. But seeing my children is more important.” Thao realises that she is fortunate, as other members of the household cannot afford the luxury of frequent family reunions. Long works inflexible hours in construction and can only see his wife and child once a year during the two weeks he has off for the Tet. Despite the hardships and the daily burden to make ends meet, Thao and her housemates remain in good spirits. It is the promise of a better future for their families that drives their optimism. “Our lives are much better here,” says Thao with a broad smile. “And to be able to live with people from my hometown makes me feel secure. [Looking back] I am happy we made the decision to leave Nam Dinh for Hanoi.”

April 2013 Word | 39

The

Melt

ing Pot ‘‘Language is the only homeland.’’ So said Czeslaw Milosz, the emigre Lithuanian writer and Nobel Laureate. We asked a selection of speakers of different languages about their experiences of community and belonging, living in Hanoi. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

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Vadim Diomin Ukrainian Speaks Ukrainian, Russian, Vietnamese and English Owner of Bud Mo

“O

n Saturday night we go to a sauna,” says Igor, Vadim’s close friend and our interpreter. “We do it in the real Russian way. We have brooms made of oak and we beat each other.” Our photographer, he says, is welcome to join them. We’re at Bud Mo, chatting over cups of tea and blinis — “make sure they’re not translated as pancakes.” They’re delicious, served with honey and a thick, rich sour cream. Vadim is from the south west of the Ukraine, near the Romanian border. Now 34, he first came to Hanoi when he was 19 to study. “We were in a socialist dormitory, B7, where all the socialist students from countries such as Cuba, Mongolia and the ex-Soviet Union were,” he says. “There was a capitalist dormitory, A2, with all the Americans who paid for their university rooms. They had airconditioning and telephones, and we had three people in one room and just one fan.” Vadim and Igor laugh. Vadim shared his room with Igor and another Ukrainian man. “They used to fight about politics,” Igor says in an aside. “They each used to tell me why the other was so wrong, they called me Russian for not getting involved.” Vadim says he has many Vietnamese ‘comrades’, and many from the ex-Soviet union. English speakers less so. “There are maybe 30 to 50 [Ukrainians] who live here. Pretty often in the Ukraine we have political events and that is the reason for Ukrainians to come together.” This week is a special time for Ukrainians, it’s Forgiveness Week. The blinis are part of the tradition. On the Sunday of this week people must ask forgiveness of each person they meet. In return they will be forgiven. It is also a day of feasting to celebrate before the traditional 40 days of fasting. And each year there is a party at Bud Mo’s. Some years they’ll make a fire and there might be singing. There will definitely be a lot of drinking. “We need no water,” says Vadim. — Rose Arnold

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Almuth Meyer-Zollitsch German Speaks German, English, French and Italien Goethe Institut Director

ersatile. Innovative. Thrilling. Those are the characteristics Almuth Meyer-Zollitsch the woman in charge of Hanoi’s Goethe Institut, attributes to German art culture. They might just as well be used to describe the 55-year-old herself who is all about exchange, merging and respect of different cultures at what she lovingly calls “a little piece of Germany on Nguyen Thai Hoc.” Being 5174 miles away from home has made Almuth appreciative of the country she is representing in Vietnam. She says she can see the strengths of Germany clearer from this distance. For her they are the continued will to grow, acceptance of an increased level of diversity and the ability to turn societal tensions stemming from just those things into innovation. “German does not only mean being born in Osnabrück. Born in Hamburg. It also can mean born in Istanbul. Born in Manilla. The country in 2013 is no longer what it was in 1993, and it most definitely isn’t what it was in 1983, before the collapse of the wall,” she says. Paradoxically it is the fact that Germany was once divided that its close ties with Vietnam stem from. East Germany used to be host to nearly 60,000 Vietnamese and Almuth suspects that the appreciation the Vietnamese had for the east has shifted to the united Germany. It is this historically grounded connection that she credits for the vast interest young locals have in what is on offer at the Goethe Institut. The sparks that fly when these different national identities come together and interact is what Almuth is after. “You have to bring something to the party. If I present myself as a jelly-like global being that morphs into all sorts of shapes, nothing much happens,” she says. And in this sense she will continue her threefold mission. To be a space for Vietnamese/German art exchange, create a meaningful dialogue, and well, be that “little piece of Germany.” — Fabiola Buchele

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Jean Carlos Estrada Venezuelan Speaks Spanish, Vietnamese and English Student

arlos is originally from Venezuela, he travelled a little in Cuba and then moved to Vietnam, where his father had also emigrated to, when he was 16. He’s now 21. He studies Vietnamese Studies at the university here, and made close friends with some other students, Cubans, on the course. “We’re Latin American and also I have this really strong connection to Cuba. They’re the people who can really understand my culture, where I come from. And there’s nothing like talking to someone in your own language. So yes, they’re pretty much like my family here.” Carlos also speaks fluent Vietnamese and has a wide circle of Vietnamese friends as well. He credits these friendships to the fact that he feels at home in Hanoi, and knows the city like the back of his hand. “Because it

is not the same, even if you know expats that have been here a long time, if they’re not from here or born here. My friends know how life is here.” When Carlos arrived in the city aged 16 he had no idea how to cook, so would often call his mum at home for advice on the right way to do things. Now cooking has become one of his favourite things to do, to have friends round for dinner. Sometimes each person brings a dish from their own country. His favourite food is a kind of Venezuelan hamburger, called arepas, with a bun made from corn powder and filled with things such as cheese, beans and ham. “If you ask any Venezuelan I am sure this is the dish they will say they miss the most. It is our breakfast, our dinner, we eat it pretty much every day.” — Rose Arnold

April 2013 Word | 43

44 | Word April 2013

Wafaa Fardini Moroccan French, Arabic and English speaker Artist and teacher

Lolo Zazar French French and English speaker. Some Vietnamese Artist

oth Lolo and Wafaa have lived here about six years. Lolo is married to a French/Vietnamese woman and had made many visits to the country over the last 20 years before deciding to move here. Wafaa came with her parents, Moroccan Embassy diplomats. They talked over tea about what community means to them and their lives here.

On Language Wafaa: Vietnamese is the main language here, of course, and then English is the common language. If you don’t speak either of these it is likely you will stay more with one group of language speakers. The French speaking community is quite strong, there are definitely popular places for French speakers to go, such as Chez Xuan. When I came here I was a bit disappointed. Like I met Vietnamese people who are still my friends, but I was also with lots of non-Vietnamese too. But then I realised, you can’t push aside other people. To say, no I don’t want to know you or be with you because you’re not Vietnamese. Lolo: I have a Vietnamese wife, I have Vietnamese family and friends. And I have a lot of fun with the family and friends even if sometimes I don’t understand. But I learn something that I can share every time with people even if I don’t understand. Still I have a good time. Old women tell me, oh, you are handsome! And I think this is nice. Wafaa: Communication is wider than words, we do communicate every day on the street. I don’t speak good Vietnamese but every day I go to buy cigarettes and I know the woman who sells them to me. We communicate. There is the barrier of language once you get to really talking, being intellectual. But every day you can just share with people you meet.

On the Artistic Community Wafaa: For me, community is [based] around the cultural life here. Maybe because I worked at L’Espace and they were the first kind of people I met, or because of how I

am. But yes, I feel that there is a strong link between everyone who is in the artistic community. Lolo: Artistic community for sure, there are many events. The Goethe Institut has done such nice stuff, and also L’Espace, of course. So yes, for me the big link is this. There are so many things sometimes there are three events in one night. But yes, this was a big link for me with different people from different nationalities, Italian, Spanish, French, German, Japanese and Vietnamese, too. Wafaa: For me the Hanoi International Theatre Society is a really big thing. Because it is theatre, and I love that, but also because it is done with really interesting people. They are very passionate. So, yes, it just rolls, it is easy. It is what you share, or the vision that you have. Like an artistic field. So yes, you tend to spend more time with these people, and you share more. Lolo: I think it works in a city like Hanoi that is not so big, there are many things but you meet people easily again. In Saigon people don’t communicate so much.

On Home Wafaa: I try and make my home in the place where I am. But yes, maybe I feel most at home in Morocco, in the Mediterranean. Because that is where my roots are, where it makes sense to me. Most of my family live there. That’s the whole paradox. I want to go back there, but I don’t know when. I have lots of the elsewhere. I love this place, I want to stay but then sometimes you just want to go somewhere else. Lolo: I feel really at home, when I came I knew I wanted to be here. I had visited for 20 years. When I lived in Paris, I said I would explode. In Paris, people really live alone. Nobody knows their neighbour. I was feeling almost dead in Paris. Maybe here people know too much, they know when you talk to someone, what you do. But at the same time it is a relationship, you feel alive, there is connection. — Rose Arnold

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Susmita Paul Indian Speaks Bengali, Hindi and English Freelance writer and teacher

here are about 100 Indian families living in Hanoi, but Susmita Paul and her husband Arijit have aligned themselves with a community of their own making. After arriving here two years ago, Susmita engaged in a balancing act of solitude versus external stimulation as a means to find her new rhythm. What that rhythm currently looks like is teaching a few times a week, writing something every day and going to the Cinematheque with friends. It’s not a routine but that is what works. It would seem that the rules and order of the day do not quite match her sense of what matters. It’s this structure that she has shied away from in the Indian community she found in Hanoi. “The probable reason for me not being so connected to the Indian community is that I do not relate any more to the distinctive grouping according to gender,” she says. “In an Indian community gathering, it is usual to find the guests divided into two — the male and the female with the children. I feel disconnected to this ideology completely.” Instead she has found a niche of artists of all kinds in Hanoi that provide her with feelings of home at the Cinematheque, Noi Hanoi events, NAME Art Space and La Quatrieme. “For me belonging is a mental map. No matter where I am, I never try to fit in. Because I never will. I am mostly happy being myself. Hanoi has been generous in matching me with people with creative pursuits.” — Kaitlin Rees

46 | Word April 2013

Lotta Sylwander Swedish Speaks Swedish, English UNICEF

Jesper Moller Danish Speaks Danish, English and German UNICEF

Roger Mathisen Norwegian Speaks Norwegian, English and German UNICEF

anoi’s UNICEF office is as international as any UN branch, but there is an unusually homogenous nationality cluster at its top. The country representative Lotta Sylwander is Swedish, her deputy Jesper Moller is a Dane and completing the Scandinavian trio is Roger Mathisen, a nutrition expert from Norway. Despite 40 years abroad between them, none of them have ever worked so closely with people from their own background, making this Nordic cluster quite the anomaly. One that they all agree makes for a comfortable work environment. “There is a sense of familiarity. Some things just don’t need to be said. Certain things are just commonly understood and you know that you are coming off on the same note on certain issues,” Jesper says. Though Lotta points out that being abroad has the tendency to accentuate their similarities, there is a level of national stereotyping that goes on between the Scandinavians. They are able to differentiate between each

other, even if the rest of the world sees them as the same version of an open-minded, blond, crime writer. Lotta’s Swedish take on the matter is this: “We always see Danes as much more vivacious and kind of wanting to have more fun, we’re the ones that are sort of more organised, orderly and boring, and the Norwegians are the nice ones.” Roger, who seems more than ready to run with that view of his nationality, highlights yet another similarity when asked about life outside the UNICEF office: “I feel totally comfortable with the local community, have Vietnamese friends and learn about their culture and language. I think it’s important to understand the pulse of this country.” And this sentiment of not primarily having their nationalities inform who they seek out to spend time with is shared by his superiors. “First of all I am a representative of UNICEF. And then I’m Swedish and then I’m Scandinavian,” Lotta says, and the other two could not nod in more agreement. — Fabiola Buchele

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Norihiko Yoshioka Japanese Speaks Japanese, English, Thai and some Vietnamese Deputy Director of the Japan Foundation Centre for Cultural Exchange

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ith between 4,000 and 5,000 people, the Japanese community is much too large to be defined by any one thing or by any one person. And though he self-describes as “not a typical Japanese businessman”, what Yoshioka’s experience in Hanoi illuminates is a struggle with belonging that is typical of many. Yo is no foreigner to being a foreigner. Before moving to Hanoi three years ago to work at the Japan Foundation organising cultural events, Yo lived for six years in Bangkok doing the same thing. One notable work during these Bangkok years is a film Last Life in the Universe that he was involved in which deals with the void accompanying life outside of one’s cultural context. “It is difficult to explain the exact feeling of being abroad for a long time,” he says.

“But this movie’s atmosphere surely represents my feeling at the time, with no sense of belonging to any community but still not wanting to be alone.” His relationship to community in Hanoi is not so different, with feelings of simultaneous detachment and engagement in what is happening around him. Yo’s work organising art exhibitions is what connects him to the local community. “Though I feel I am like an observer for both communities,” he says, “the Japanese community in Hanoi and the Hanoian community, at the same time, whenever I get feedback from the Vietnamese audience about our arts events… I feel proud of being Japanese. I feel my nationality stronger than on other occasions, especially when in Japan.” — Kaitlin Rees

Pippa Wood Australian Speaks English Housewife

hen I first arrived in Hanoi Pippa took me under her wing. I was working from home with a Cambodian NGO, not the best way to make a life here. She invited me out, introduced me to people, told me about groups she thought I might be interested in, and got out her phone to give me useful numbers. Pippa, along with her family, has lived in Hanoi for six years. They have four boys and live in Ciputra. She’s very involved in the expat community, has loads of friends and does lots of things. She sings in a choir, she has performed in plays, she puts on parties, shops in the fabric market, writes. She has a pretty full life. As soon as Pippa arrived in Hanoi she volunteered at the kids’ school, doing a book and bake sale. “Straight away you’re a doer,” she says. “It’s a really good way of networking with people, if you want to find out where this is, or how to do this you ask a doer. So it’s really good to get involved, just with something.” She also went to one of the Hanoi International Women’s Club’s coffee mornings and started making contacts there, a group she is now very active with. “I think it is really valuable in building networks and communities. It is great to get new people together, but also that they have access to people who have been here longer.” Pippa agrees that the circumstance of having moved your family across the world bonds people and creates ties between them. “And also, I think the Vietnamese people we meet don’t need us, they have their families. But we need each other for support, for advice and while we’re all friendly, [the Vietnamese] don’t need us as such for socialising. It isn’t in any way meant to be cliquey.” — Rose Arnold

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“The Korean education system is one of the most severe and competitive in the world. Typically, secondary school students spend all day studying in a government school and attend special ‘academies’ five evenings per week”

The Youth of Today Three students, Korean teenagers from Hanoi International School, came to Word Ha Noi to do a one week internship with us. They interviewed each other and their friends to tell us about the experience of Korean teenagers living in Hanoi. Words by Yeon Bin Kim, Ha Lim Kim and Stephanie Kim. Photos by Francis Roux

ost Korean businessmen, when they move to Vietnam, bring their families with them and for the vast majority of children, this move is quite beneficial. The Korean education system is one of the most severe and competitive in the world. Typically, secondary school students spend all day studying in a government school and attend special ‘academies’ five evenings per week from 6pm until 10pm that prepare young people for university entrance examinations. It’s a system that no Korean student enjoys, yet the highly competitive nature of Korean society demands that everyone participates in this way. So when a Korean family relocates to Vietnam and the kids enroll at an international school, the cycle of academic drudgery is broken, and students enjoy more freedom and leisure time as a result. International teaching styles and curricula are also vastly different to those in Korea. Korean students are often shocked when they first start learning in an international environment because they are required to express their opinions, and the teacherstudent relationship is much more casual and informal.

Impressions Korean teenager Myung Hun, who arrived in Hanoi seven months ago, was pleasantly surprised by the relaxed atmosphere of international education. “I feel guilty that I’m not studying enough in Vietnam. There’s no tension at school and for the first time in my life I actually have free time.” So how do Korean teenagers view their host country, Vietnam? Disappointment

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at the high level of pollution in Hanoi is a common reaction. Student Seung Hyun perceived Vietnam as an eco-friendly country before he arrived with his family, and was therefore shocked when he first saw the state of the country’s waterways and streets. On weekends, you’ll find most of Hanoi’s Korean teenagers hanging out in the Trung Hoa and My Dinh districts. 15-year-old Yeon Bin spends her Saturday afternoons in the new high-rise shopping malls. “We do the same things in Hanoi as we do in Korea: karaoke, shopping, going to cafes and watching movies at the cinema. What I really miss, though, are my favourite Korean cosmetic stores, and being able to attend fan meetings and visit amusement parks.” Social interaction between Korean and Vietnamese teenagers is limited due to the language barrier. “Meeting new people in Korea is so easy because we all speak the same language,” laments Myung Hyun. “I find most Vietnamese teenagers friendly, but it’s hard to build friendships when we don’t share a common language.” Korean student Ha Lim is one of the veterans of the Korean community in Hanoi. “I’ve been here since 2002, when we had to move here because of my dad’s career.” Ha Lim has seen enormous changes during the past eleven years, most noticeably in Hanoi’s infrastructure and service sector. “I remember when I first arrived, we couldn’t buy hamburgers or fast food of any type. Now there’s Burger King, KFC and even a choice of department stores. Vietnam is catching up with more developed countries. It will never be the same as Korea here, but why should it? Each country has its own unique features and that’s how it should be.”

The Away Game What must life be like for the small number of international professional footballers playing in Vietnam’s football league? Douglas Pyper finds a tiny group, isolated from much of the rest of life in Hanoi

he word ‘community’ suggests inclusion, yet Hanoi is home to one exceedingly small and close knit group whose very association keeps them apart. In 2012, this group consisted of nine people, this year it’s down to six. New members need not apply as membership is maxed out. Welcome to life as a foreign professional footballer in Vietnam’s top league. You and five other people, your only connection a shared trade, are about to get very, very close. This is a social group on the margins of any society. With V-League rules now

limiting teams to just three foreign players per season, Hanoi is home to only six foreign footballers operating in the highest tier of the game. The fact that players from the other team are your rivals means that your immediate social circle is actually a meagre three people. There’s no real reason why this tight band can’t interact with a wider range of people, but think for yourself for a moment — have you ever met one? I’d be willing to bet that you haven’t. This begs the question, why not? Two of the most prominent nationalities among foreign players in Vietnam are Argentinean and Brazilian, don’t these

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players crave some choice cold cuts and imported cheeses from a Xuan Dieu deli? Aren’t they dying for an Argentinean steak? Surely they go to the occasional fashion show, film event or live performance at one of the city’s Latin-owned establishments? I’ve certainly never met one. I met a Ugandan football agent once. He said he could get me a club in the Middle East or North Africa, but the phone still hasn’t rung.

Up Out Front My efforts to find this reclusive community brought me to a Hanoi T&T training session out at My Dinh. The manager had assured me that I could get an interview, so I arrived right on time. Oddly enough, that time was the beginning of training. Without even the hint of a smile, the manager told me to wait till the session was over for my interview, but I was welcome to sit in the dugout. To pass the time I eyed my prey playing

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‘piggy-in-the-middle’ for what seemed like an eternity. Hanoi T&T has been one of the league’s most successful clubs in recent years, winning the title in 2010, then finishing runner up in the next two seasons. A big part of that success is due to their three foreign players. The team captain is towering Brazilian centreback Christiano Roland, hopefully known as ‘CR5’ to his mates. Up front the team can rely on the firepower of Nigerian Samson Kayode and Argentinean Gonzalo Marronkle. Having two foreign strikers isn’t unusual in the V-League, and is a major reason why foreign players have been blamed in recent times for Vietnam’s poor showings in international competitions. It’s worth noting that the V-League’s top scorer hasn’t been Vietnamese since the 01/02 season when Ho Van Loi bagged nine goals for Canh SaiGon. During training, Samson finds time

to do some Samba style dancing during playing piggy, Christiano keeps tripping up his team mates for a practical joke, and Gonzalo smashes in a couple of goals without breaking a sweat. There’s not a lot of verbal communication going on with their Vietnamese colleagues, but everyone is very friendly and I hear the foreign lads successfully count to 17.

A Life Apart Suddenly the session is over and the three players come over to the dugout. Samson is most forthcoming and claims that despite the language barrier, the foreign and the Vietnamese players get on well together. “It’s not difficult ‘cause we’ve been here for quite a long time,” he says. “It’s been nice ‘cause we get to know each other, and we have time to eat together.” But when trying to find out what they do socially, the answers become more terse. They are adamant that they

don’t go to karaoke and Gonzalo explains in broken English that they rarely go to large events because of the unsafe traffic. A picture is beginning to emerge of an extremely isolated community. Unable to speak Vietnamese well, the trio is noticeably apart from their Vietnamese colleagues. Yet their level of English is also much lower than is expected in international circles. They live together in the same apartment bloc, and rarely venture out, spending most of their time with each other and their families. After a few minutes of questioning, Samson spills the beans. “They’ve been brothers to me,” he says. “When I came into the team I had difficulties. They helped me a lot, not only on the field, and not only in the team, but outside as well. These are some of the best friends I’ve ever had in my life and I hope to continue this relationship in the future.” We’ve been chatting for exactly five

minutes when the manager calls the guys away. From here they go straight to the team bus which takes them back to the apartment bloc that they all call home.

Not So Famous Faces The level of extraction that the players experience from everyday life is what you’d expect for people who are so famous they can’t walk down the street — people like Ronaldinho or Ronaldo. Yet in Hanoi, the players’ separation from the larger society is that much more extreme. They could walk unrecognised down almost any street in the city. Their names are known by football fans, but they are anonymous in person. “When you go Hai Phong,” says Christiano, “then everybody knows you. But in Hanoi, I don’t why, but they don’t like football so much. Only for business; nothing for love.” As we’re walking back to the bus, still

exchanging questions, it strikes me that these guys are as interested in me, as I am in them. Christiano especially wants to know what I do, why I’ve come here, how long I’ve been here, if I’m married. It’s like a tentative first contact between two closely related but markedly different tribes. Both can see there is a natural connection, but are struggling to understand the others’ lifestyle choices and motivations. For my part, I just can’t work out what they do here. Kept separate by jealous coaches and managers, time seems to be spent in their apartments with family. There is the occasional team holiday down to Danang where Christiano tells me everybody goes for dinner — “all the players and the president drink beers, many mot, hai, ba…” On seeing my confusion, Christiano sums this tiny, isolated community’s life up. “It’s not easy, but it’s our life, the life of a football player.”

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This is

London

Despite the expense, London remains one of the most dynamic and enticing cities in the world. When you visit, just make sure you avoid the cold. Words and photos by Nick Ross

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hink of a city with 2,000 years worth of history that has been burnt down once, bombed, rebuilt and remains the largest city in the EU. Imagine a place that mixes architectural grandesse and history with contemporary arts, great theatre, the best in English-language comedy and cutting edge music. Think also of a city once chided for its bad food that today sits at the centre of some of best modernday cuisine on the planet. And think of the only city in the world to have hosted the Olympics not once or twice, but thrice. This is London. It may not be the economic capital of the world of yesteryear â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the era of empire is both socially and psychologically a thing of the past. Instead, it remains a commercial and cultural centre both aided and abetted by its cosmopolitan facade. These days less than 50 percent of its population has white, Anglo-Saxon roots, but that only helps to add to the cultural melting pot that makes this place tick. And it is this diversity, added to by the mix of present and past, that makes it a great place to visit. In London you can do anything or be anyone.

Cold and Bold If you are going to visit, bear two things in mind. First is the expense. Unless youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to couchsurf, are visiting friends or are going to share a hostel dormitory, accommodation here is expensive. Be prepared. And most importantly, avoid the cold. This writer last visited in March

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(Previous Page) A London version of the cyclo with a driver wooing customers inside; a Docklands Light Railway train at Canary Wharf Station in the heart of the former East End. The land has been reclaimed over the past three decades. (This page, clockwise from top left) London's oldest bagel bakery, one of two adjacent bagel businesses

Brick Lane area; Three different Shoreditch in the East End. Street art has quite literally become a work of art; The grave of Karl Marx in Highgate Cemetary in North London still operating in the lots of graffiti in

Information and Accommodation It calls itself ‘The Ultimate Guide to London’ and in truth, it still is. To find out what’s going on in all arenas, go to timeout.com/London. If you want to go a bit more official, then click on visitlondon.com. This website also helps you with places to stay, although sites like agoda.com are also good on this front. For cheap(er) travel around the city, you’re going to need an Oyster Card. This cuts down the almost astronomic fares on London’s transport system by as much as 50 percent. For more information go to oystercard.com.

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and got caught in winter snows during spring. Not pleasant when you’re out on the street, trying to take in the sights. Yet cold or no cold, as sights and sounds go London has a wealth of them. All requiring that you pick and choose. The highlights are abundant. Take, for example the trio of museums behind the Royal Albert Hall in South Kensington. Sat side by side, the National Science Museum excels when it comes to creativity — here science is given a twist that makes it exciting and appealing to young and old alike. Then there is the Natural History Museum, home to a lifesize, animatronic model of the tyrannosaurus rex. And if design is your thing, few places can match the eye-opening wonders of the Victoria and Albert Museum. Football lovers can visit the stadiums. The likes of Stamford Bridge and The Emirates are open to fans or non-fans alike, with Arsenal’s recently built monolith a great

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sight for ogling eyes. Art lovers will also find a slice of heaven here, in particular on the South Bank at the Tate Modern, a former power station transformed into a multi-level, world-class gallery. The institution is presently showing a paidentrance Lichtenstein exhibition, but also has a number of galleries open for free viewing. And of course, if you want to catch London from above, then hop on the London Eye, opposite the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben. You can even stand astride the meridian line at Greenwich, the fictitious, equator-like mark from which Greenwich Mean Time and indeed all time on this planet is measured. Or if you so wish, you can book a tour of the spooky yet highly fascinating and architecturally bewildering Highgate Cemetery, the final resting place of Karl Marx and many other luminaries. However, for me, London is best seen on foot or by bicycle — tourists can now hire

bikes from outdoor, pay-as-you-go stands. The square mile that makes up the City of London is an unbeatable place for a wander, as is Soho in the West End and Camden Town on the weekend. The East End should also not be ignored, and in particular the modern, yet artistically rundown area around Shoreditch, Spitalfields and Brick Lane. The street art here is phenomenal as is the obsession with vintage clothing, an eye opener into all that is trendy and cutting edge. And while you’re in the East End, you can even visit England’s longest running bagel bakery, a landmark in its own right, hit an Indian Subcontinental meal in Bangla Town or even head north to Hoxton to take advantage of all the Vietnamese cuisine on offer. The pho bo at the highly rated Song Que may cost VND200,000, but it’s well worth the expense, especially after you become fed up with all that terrible English cuisine you have to make do with.

(Left) Behind closed doors. The Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, two of London's most iconic and overly photographed sites.

(Right) A bowl of pho at Song Que in Kingsland Road, Hoxton. Song Que is one of 15 or so Vietnamese restaurants lining this street.

(Top) The Emirates Stadium just off Holloway Road, Arsenal Football Club. The stadium is

(Bottom) A bicycle hiring scheme set up by the Mayor of London Boris Johnson, means that you can now rent a bike in one area of London and return it to a stand elsewhere, a great eco way to see the city.

the home of

one of many that tourists can visit to get a taste of the grandeur of

Premier League Football.

Getting There Vietnam Airlines flies direct from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City to Gatwick. However, to take in other parts of Europe, the direct flight to Paris with Air France and then the Eurostar train through the Channel Tunnel is a good option. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only two hours and fifteen minutes between both cities. Book the train in advance and the cost of the fare is as little as GBP50 one way (VND1.5 million). Other airlines such as Emirates, Qatar and more do flights to London with short stopovers in the Middle East. This is a great way of breaking up a 12-hour flight into two, more manageable six-hour portions.

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DAY TRIPPER

Muong Cultural Museum A haven for the arts and the preservation of ethnic minority culture, the Muong Cultural Museum is a threehour drive from Hanoi. Words by Douglas Pyper. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

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n modern day Vietnam, the cultural diversity of the country’s 54 ethnic minorities isn’t often celebrated. Sure, there is the excellent Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi, and another more run down version in Thai Nguyen, but on the whole, trying to find out about the many cultures that make up today’s Vietnam isn’t always easy or exciting. One place that bucks the trend is the Muong Cultural Museum just outside of Hoa Binh City. Stretching up a hillside off a quiet country road, the museum is much more than a museum. Forget any drab collocations that the word may have, this place is a living environment, a vibrant cultural showcase, an art space and a great spot for a picnic. The site was set up by Muong-o-phile Vu Duc Hieu back in 2007. Hieu is actually of the majority Kinh ethnicity but spent his formative teenage years outside of Hoa Binh in a Muong community. After making his name in Hanoi as an accomplished artist, he established the Muong Museum as an

effort to preserve a society that he perceived to be fading. As a collector of Muong artifacts such as tools, musical instruments, handicrafts and clothes, Hieu had begun to notice that these were becoming rarer and rarer as Vietnam’s breakneck development rendered them obsolete in the face of factory goods.

Cultural Space The result of Hieu’s good work is a fascinating space in which to understand a little known culture. All of the staff in the museum are of Muong ethnicity and more than happy to explain the fine points of Muong culture to visitors. On a guided tour, guests are shown around the four forms of communal house common in Muong culture, each one particular to the four stratas of Muong society. Guides will happily explain Muong social hierarchy, gender roles, cooking habits and anything else you’d care to know. While all this is undoubtedly very interesting, the real highlight for visitors

“The biggest event the space has hosted to date was October 2012’s Art Under the Roof when an unprecedented 70 artists from 15 countries descended on the museum for 10 days of collaboration, creation and cultural sharing”

is a walk around the hilly grounds. The five hectares of hillside that make up the museum are dotted with contemporary sculptures hidden among trees and made mostly out of natural materials. At the very top of the hill there is even a pond for swimming filled with water from a clean nearby stream. Just watch out for the giant goldfish lurking in the deep end. These sculptures are a representation of another important aspect of the museum, which is as an artists’ retreat. Workshops are regularly held in the peaceful surroundings, with buses full of Hanoi-based painters and sculptures a common sight. The biggest event the space has hosted to date was October 2012’s Art Under the Roof when an unprecedented 70 artists from 15 countries descended on the museum for 10 days of collaboration, creation and cultural sharing. The workshop was completely open, meaning the local Muong people were free to come and watch the artists at work. The purpose was to cultivate a better understanding of contemporary art among locals, allow Vietnamese artists to interact directly with foreign ones, and allow those artists from other nations to learn about the relative micro-culture of Muong society.

Preservation Outside of Stasis Sitting on a sunny veranda outside the onsite studio where he lives and works, Hieu talks in a gentle whisper between hits on his water pipe. The prominent

sounds threatening to drown out Hieu’s whispy voice are croaking frogs and distant roosters. Talking about the exhibition, Hieu explains that the biggest success of the event was raising artistic awareness in people outside of Vietnam’s major cities. It’s no secret that artistic awareness is generally low, a point illustrated in the frequency with which you can hear people say “I don’t understand this painting.” To Hieu and other artists, understanding is necessary in order to cultivate the domestic appreciation which Vietnamese arts so desperately need. Inevitably, that holds true, too, for Muong culture. Without knowing the complexities and fine points of Muong society, the ethnic group’s achievements can’t be appreciated by those outside of it. In that light, The Muong Cultural Museum, via its cooking classes, guided tours and other hands-on learning experiences is providing a vital educational service. Yet, to call it a museum does the place a bit of an injustice. It’s very much a living environment that is protecting, celebrating and developing cultures. It’s a place where an artistic understanding and maturity is being instilled in Muong traditional culture, but also where Kinh and foreign nationals are learning about an intrinsic part of Vietnam. Perhaps also, it’s a place that allows Muong people themselves to see the value in their own culture and the corresponding need to both preserve and develop it.

Information The Muong Cultural Museum is at 202 Duong Tay Tien, Phuong Thai Binh, Hoa Binh City. Tel: 0913 553937.

A ccommodation

Guests can stay at one of the three nha san which are on the property. All of the buildings have dorm accommodation from VND100,000 or private rooms for VND400,000.

G etting T here

Take the Lang-Hoa Lac Highway all the way to Hoa Lac, and follow the left hand turn towards Xuan Mai. At the crossroads in Xuan Mai turn right towards Hoa Binh. Follow the road through the town and on towards Son La, about 7km outside of town you will see a sign at a crossroads for the museum. Turn right here onto Duong Tay Tien. The Museum is well signposted at number 202.

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Trendspotter

Flying High Overcoming her fear of heights Hoa Le takes to the sky to try out paragliding with VietWings. Photo by Nguyen Le. Plus, trends spotted on the city streets

t’s a spring morning in March and the sky is blue. Nearly forty ‘pilots’ from the VietWings club have turned up at the meet, huge rucksacks hanging from their backs. We’re on our way to the Vien Nam mountain range in Hoa Binh Province. Everyone has big smiles; maybe because of the fresh air, or perhaps it’s the collective passion and anticipation of the fun ahead. After climbing a long way through dense bush, tea fields and around private houses, we arrive at the top of a 300-metre hill. There is discussion of how the team will achieve the goals of the day — the wind is strong so they’re able to launch facing out away from the slope. Their destination is a nearby 1,000 metre-high mountain. For those who have practiced for years, manipulating the wind to pass over the mountain slope will be

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no problem. For others, however, today will be their first attempt at this soaring height.

Getting your Wings The equipment is fairly simple — each person has a rucksack, which contains a harness connected to a colourful hollow fabric wing, helmet and gloves. It usually takes about 10 hours of instruction and practice to learn how to control the paraglider lines. You also have to learn how to launch and land before you can actually fly off a hill. Depending on an individual’s skills and courage, they can later acquire other tricks including soaring and thermal flying — a technique utilising the uplift of thermal currents to soar high. Success is measured by height and distance achieved, duration in the air, and, of course, safety. Nguyen Viet Ha, one of the team leaders and now a coach,

says that paragliding came to Vietnam around 2005, but interest has boomed in the last two years. His club alone has 44 members and about 60 more on the waiting list. In paragliding, as with other sky sports, weather and particularly the wind, plays a vital role. Often the group only find out they can fly with just one day’s notice. But in return for such flexibility, when the group get to go out, it’s usually a beautiful day.

Airborne Passion “This can be addictive,” says Ha who has been paragliding since

2007. “You can try different tricks every time. There is a challenge in every flight, which makes it such a special feeling. Once you’re into it, it’s hard to shake.” Vietnam Airlines captain Jean-Marc is the most experienced trainer of the group. He has been volunteering since 2007, teaching new members. He says that Vietnam’s climate isn’t ideal for paragliding; the steady temperature and hazy air make it hard to achieve thermals. Despite this it is still a great adventure. Duy Pham has been in the club for two months. “It’s

Trendspotter: Tall Hair and Speed

“There is a challenge in every flight, which makes it such a special feeling. Once you’re into it, it’s hard to shake”

amazing. Once you take off, you are apart from the noise and the sound of life on earth. The only things surrounding you are the clouds, the wind and occasionally falcons.” Paragliding in Vietnam doesn’t yet have a federation or a certified training course. You can’t do it on your own here, so you need to sign up with one of the two active clubs, Vietwings or Hanoi Paragliding. You may find yourself on a waiting list. But it’s well worth the wait.

Regardless of how high you try to get your speedometer up in Hanoi, chances are your hair will stay flat due to wearing a helmet and the slowness of the traffic. If you rely on just wind for a wind-blown look, your tall and tousled hair fantasy will remain just that. Thus the most popular hairstyle to hit Hanoi in recent times is all about manufacturing height. Perhaps it stems from a dream for speed through crowded streets, perhaps it’s the result of the young generation breaking free of the chains of helmet hair and expressing their inner tall person. Whatever the origin, kids are wearing their hair tall, maybe you should too — Kaitlin Rees

Trendspotter: Hot Wheels The first time inline skating crossed our radar as a ‘thing’ was on spotting a uniformed security guard, tottering awkwardly atop a pair of neon pink rollerblades. To be fair his efforts were hampered by the rubble strewn liberally around his feet on the floor of the building site he was in. It might seem odd for a city not known for its unimpeded streets, nor smooth pavements, but inline skating is massive here in Hanoi. Huge.

An X-Games with extreme-style skating was held back in 2011, and now there are skate clubs all over town. Accordoing to Skatefresh, London’s longest running skate school, their YouTube videos get really high viewing figures in Vietnam. Get yourself a pair of blades, day-glo if possible, and join the kids at Le Thai To. — Rose Arnold

Visit these sites to learn more: www.vietwings-hpg.com www.hanoiparagliding.com

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SOCIETY

WOMAN

This month Kaitlin Rees ponders her options. And how kickboxing can bring the sisterhood together. Image by Aaron Joel Santos

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Astrological Love Buffet Sometimes I find it really hard to choose between a pair of black and a pair of brown shoes. Or, do I eat the noodle or the rice? Taxi or a xe om? Oh, heavens should I just walk? With such ravages of introspection, the complexity of choosing between western astrology and eastern astrology to light the path

Eastern Animal Signs

Rat (1948, 60, 72, 84, 96)

Buffalo (1949, 61, 73, 85, 97)

to one’s life partner seems overwhelming. Whose zodiac sign is more accurate? Do I identify more with my Dog sign or my Libra sign? To resolve, or further complicate the issue, see this quasiaccurate chart of love compatibility from which you can pick and choose between zodiac philosophies to suit your whims.

Western Zodiac Signs Sagittarius (Nov 22 — Dec 21)

Capricorn (Dec 22 — Jan 20)

Pisces (Feb 20 — March 20)

Date a Leo for lovemaking and freedom. Or an Aquarius. Date a Libra for nice conversation. Date a Scorpio to feel smothered.

Date a Taurus if you want your shell penetrated sensually. Date a Virgo for intellect and order. Date a Libra to have someone like your money but not your work ethic.

Date a Monkey to feel like a sex virtuoso. Date a Pig to finally be understood. Date a Tiger to feel inadequate.

Date a Rat for your soul. A Snake for your karma. Date a Dragon for sparring. Date a Goat for explosions.

Tiger (1950, 62, 74, 86, 98) Date a Cat to feel dominant. Date a Dragon for spontaneity. Date a Horse for independence.

Cat (1951, 63, 75, 87, 99) Date a Rat for fine art. Date a Dog to deal with your trust issues. Date a Buffalo to be unpampered.

Aquarius (Jan 21 — Feb 19) Date an Aries for a storm of emotions. Date a Libra for mutual play. Date a Gemini to go to new places. Date a Pisces for drama.

Date a Cancer for an ego boost. Date a Sagittarius for bed sparks and emotional letdown. Date a Capricorn and watch them not run away.

Dragon (1952, 64, 76, 88)

Date a Tiger for sturdy excitement. Date a Horse for a battle of egos. Date a Cock for their courage.

Snake (1953, 64, 77, 89)

Date a Cat for cerebral stimulation. Date a Pig for constructive communication. Date a Monkey to be the most popular couple at the party.

Aries (March 21 — April 20)

Taurus (April 21 — May 21)

Horse (1954, 65, 78, 90)

Goat (1955, 66, 79, 91)

Date a Taurus to slow down. Date a Leo to practice tact. Date a Libra to temporarily fill in your gaps in personality.

Date an Aquarius to forget about sex for a little while. Date a Pisces to learn to dream. Date a Virgo for less complication.

Date a Dragon to fix the world. Date a Goat for perfect yin-yang balance. Date a Dog to speak the same language.

Date a Cock for disharmonious prodding. Date a Cat for aesthetic appreciation. Date a Rat to wake up earlier.

Gemini (May 22 — June 21)

Date a Cancer to be a prisoner in your home. Date a Leo and you can still flirt with others. Date an Aries for a partner who keeps up

Cancer (June 22 — July 22)

Monkey (1956, 67, 80, 92)

Cock (1957, 68, 81, 93) Date a Pig for wisdom and admiration. Date a Horse for simultaneous celebration and self-destruction. Date a Dragon to respect someone else.

Leo (July 23 — Aug 23) Date a Libra for awesome sex. Date a Virgo to be kept alert. Date an Aquarius for someone to resent you.

Virgo (Aug 24 —Sept 22)

Dog (1958, 69, 82, 94) Date a Goat for a union of pessimists. Date a Monkey to be delivered from gloominess. Date a Cat and never get over it if you break up.

Pig (1959, 70, 83, 95) Date a Tiger and find a keeper. Date a Buffalo and breed quiet strength. Date a Cock to draw out hidden feelings.

Libra (Sept 23 — Oct 22) Date a Scorpio and feel the wrath of jealousy. Date a Taurus for music and art appreciation. Date a Pisces to practice sulking.

Date a Snake for tireless physical attraction. Date a Buffalo for a wet blanket. Date a Tiger to build distrust.

Date a Capricorn to be ignored. Date a Scorpio for force and domination. Date a Sagittarius to experience jealously.

Date a Cancer for codependence. Date a Capricorn for ordered love. Date an Aries for freshness.

Scorpio (Oct 23 — Nov 21) Date a Leo for stormy sex. Date a Sagittarius to understand your lack of control. Date a Gemini for imagination and self-doubt.

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Viet Fighter: Punching & Kicking, On any given Tuesday or Thursday night in Hanoi, you can find a dozen-or-so sweaty girls jabbing, hooking, kicking and body socking each other, all in the name of fun. I mean, fitness.

orry fellas, you’re not invited. Like most new arrivals to Hanoi, I was surprised at the cost of gym memberships in the city. I tried some of the local gyms; while affordable, they were generally so cramped with equipment geared towards weight lifting that any other kind of work out seemed impossible. A few 6am jogs around West Lake left me ducking electrical wires and fishing poles, wondering how on earth I’d work out off those ca phe trungs I’d

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been sucking down. When someone tipped me off to a womanonly cardio kickboxing class, I was excited; I’d trained in the United States and Cambodia before moving to Hanoi, and it was the most fun I’d had exercising since elementary school ballet classes. But I was also skeptical: was it the women who wanted it women only, or the gym? And what was the “cardio” bit about? I envisioned a Jazzercise version of Muay Thai, with

leotards and exhortations to “feel the burn”. But I went. Of course I went; I wasn’t particularly flush with choices. My first class was on a sweltering July night. The room was ramshackle and open-air, similar to the facilities in which I’d trained in other countries. A few girls stood chatting, wrapping their hands in black fighting wraps. The class started with gentle jogging laps around the gym, tinny pop music playing from the stereo. As we warmed up and

Not So Much Screaming

entered into more challenging combos, a strange sensation of familiarity came over me. It wasn’t just the one-twos or the thwack of my limbs against the pads. It was the sense of camaraderie. There’s a certain kind of female, I realised, attracted to kick boxing. Not the calm centered yoga type, nor the agro Boot Camp type. It might seem surprising for participants of a sport that involves kicking and punching, but these women are supportive, team

players. The typical woman is not afraid of a bit of sweat and hard work, but she’s just as likely to tell you you’re doing a great job. This was the kind of woman I encountered at Viet Fighter’s woman-only cardio kickboxing class. This is the kind of woman I was looking to meet and make friends with, as a new arrival. I’ve been going to the class for eight months now; the gym has since moved to swankier facilities and even the soundtrack

has improved. And not only have I gotten back in shape, I’ve made a couple friends along the way. — Guest writer Vietfighter would like to offer a seven day free membership to readers of Word. Conditions include residence in Hanoi and no previous experience at Vietfighter. Offer ends May 31. To access this deal, call 01638 923378 and tell owner Long that you’ve seen the article in Word Ha Noi.

April 2013 Word | 67

INSIDER

A Street Cart Named Desire

“I

know my food is clean because I eat it every day with my husband!” The banh da vendor taps her bowl of green tea noodles with a weathered chopstick. “See the hospital over there? The doctors always come here to eat.” Sitting in a narrow alley in the Old Quarter, framed by a pot of cooking water and several plastic stools, she embodies one of Hanoi’s enduring images. Mobile food vendors have roamed these streets for at

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least a thousand years, since the imperial court era in the early 11th century. During Vietnam’s strict socialist period, private profit-making activities were forbidden. Today’s mobile food vendors are largely rural migrants who came to the capital after the doi moi reforms in 1986, which opened up the economy and once again allowed selling food on the street.

Modern Standards But while the street vendor is one of the

icons of Hanoi, it’s also an image that the country is determined to shed as it hurtles towards development. In 2012, thousands of people were hospitalised from food poisoning, resulting in at least 33 deaths, according to the Vietnam Food Administration (VFA) and Department of Food Hygiene and Safety. For a country that promotes itself as rapidly modernising, such statistics hark back to an unsavory past. This year, the authorities introduced a set of new regulations that bring the

With fatalities from food poisoning a continuing issue, new regulations compel mobile food vendors to wear plastic gloves and acquire multiple licenses. But, asks Elisabeth Rosen, can this be made reality? Photos by Aaron Joel Santos country’s mobile hawkers more in line with the “best practices” of those in other countries. Vendors must now undergo health examinations, pass food safety training courses and don “clean, neat clothing and plastic gloves,” states a circular released in January. In addition, they need to obtain certificates “proving the origin” of all ingredients. “The type of situation in which food outlets and drinking establishments are located next to drains, and a bucket of water

is used to wash hundreds of bowls and chopsticks must be ended. It is essential to ensure minimum food safety requirements,” Minister of Health Nguyen Thi Kim Tien told DTI News. But Hanoi has a long way to go before it can measure up to other Asian metropolises. “In Singapore and Hong Kong, mobile vendors have been relocated to stable marketplaces,” says Lisa Barthelmes, an anthropologist doing research about mobile street vendors in Hanoi. “In Thailand and

Malaysia, there’s registration and licensing. In Manila, the street vendors are organised — they even have a workers’ union.”

You Know What You Know Regulators in Hanoi face a particularly difficult task. In a city where vendors dismiss questions about food safety and hygiene with the words “khong de y” (It doesn’t matter to me), the battle is not only about making them conform to these laws. It’s also about explaining the entire universe

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of food safety to people for whom these concepts are as foreign as the idea of buying a chicken more than a few hours before throwing it into the wok. “I don’t have a certificate of origin. I just use my own sense,” says one bun dau seller, gesturing to baskets heaped with green herbs. “My own sense” — a rough translation of the Vietnamese phrase “nhin la biet,” which can also be interpreted as “you see it, you know it.” During interviews with vendors, they consistently invoked this phrase. It seems to sum up their entire philosophy. “Usually sellers can tell if vegetables or noodles are good by the eye, not through a certificate,” says a woman who has been selling banh da in the Old Quarter for five years. A nearby bun dau vendor agrees. “The origin of the food is very hard to check in

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Vietnam,” she says, plunging a slab of tofu into a wok filled with oil. “We choose by what we see, not by any certificate.” In a city where meat and produce are so fresh that the journey from slaughter to table can take as little as three hours — and where vendors traditionally buy from wet markets, where they often have established relationships with the sellers — many don’t see the need for printed labels or certificates of health. So it’s not hard to see why vendors don’t understand the concept. Not all the rules of food safety are being neglected. Even though many vendors had never heard of the new regulations, plastic gloves still cover their fingers. “It’s better to avoid direct contact with the food,” a noodle vendor in Truc Bach explains. Yet some still opt for more traditional

preparation methods. “My food is clean, so I don't need to use gloves,” says one banh da seller. “And they’re not very comfortable.” Rolling up a steamed rice crepe for banh cuon, another vendor uses her bare fingers. “I couldn’t do this if I wore gloves,” she explains. Asked what hygiene measures she takes, a vendor pointed to a Styrofoam takeout box.

Health and Safety When the question of training and medical exams came up, faces repeatedly crinkled in laughter. In the Old Quarter, not a single vendor surveyed had undergone one of the food safety training sessions. In residential neighborhoods, training seemed to be taken more seriously: several vendors near Chau Long Market said the district had imposed

training on them, although not a single one had heard of the new regulations. “We learnt to wash everything and keep different foods separate,” one vendor says. “But I knew those things before the course.” Along with the new regulations, it has been announced that “authorised agencies” would inspect street food vendors two to four times annually, in addition to conducting random inspections. Yet the limited number of food safety inspectors stands in the way of this becoming reality. According to Vietnam News, Japan has 12,000 such inspectors, while Bangkok alone has 5,000. Vietnam, in contrast, has 300. These inspectors are responsible for monitoring not only what the VFA estimates amounts to 400,000 establishments selling street food, but also hundreds of thousands of

mobile vendors. Small wonder that in 2009, over one-fifth of the 563,000 establishments inspected in the capital displayed health violations. Many vendors said they had briefly seen inspectors from the district, but their descriptions of these cursory inspections did not match up to the rigorous new requirements. “They come every few months,” said a snail soup vendor in the Old Quarter. “But they just check if the food is fresh.” Adding to the problem is the pervasive sense that choosing safe food is the responsibility of the consumer. “Hanoians think they know where it’s safe to eat,” says Lisa Barthelmes. “There are rules that people follow: cleaning chopsticks with lemons, not eating street food for a week after Tet because

the vendors might have saved ingredients from before the holiday.” Even public health officials acknowledge the enormity of the task laid out for them. “It would be hard to tell the woman who sells grilled squid near my house to prove the origin of the food, to have a certificate of health or to take a training course. She processes a small quantity of food with a simple oven and normal tools,” a former official told Tuoi Tre. Asked if the regulations would be effective, many vendors shrugged. “Every year near the summer, we get new regulations, because there are more food safety issues in the summer,” says a bun dau vendor, grabbing a clump of rice vermicelli with glittery nails. “There’s more food poisoning when the weather is warm.”

April 2013 Word | 71

MYSTERY DINER

The Art of Eating There are plenty of Japanese restaurants to choose from in Hanoi, but some are better than others. This month our mystery reviewer samples Khang. Photos by Francis Roux

good slice of otoro should literally melt in your mouth. Otoro, a cut of tuna that comes from the lower belly of the fish, is much prized among sashimi connoisseurs. The slabs of marbled pink meat are texturally more akin to steak than the other fish on the sushi counter. They’re even graded like steak, with a price to match. If there was anywhere in Vietnam that served such luxurious fish, it would be at Khang. Here, the chef — Yamada Toshinobu, an Osaka native — presents sashimi as something out of nature. Soft pink strips of otoro are draped over crisp shiso leaves, part of a careful miseen-scene that also includes dainty curls of radish and deliberately placed rocks. It’s a dish so visually striking that you almost don’t want to eat it. Overcome that impulse, for the sashimi tastes as good as it looks. Delicate and creamy, the fish palliates the meaty texture of steak tartare with a more delicate flavour. If you don’t have the budget for otoro (on a recent visit, it cost VND714,000), there are other good options — fresh curls of octopus (VND126,000) and golden komochinishin (herring roe,

72 | Word April 2013

VND168,000), which has an unusual sweet, almost pickled flavour.

An Ocean of Choice Up to 80 percent of the fish is local. Or at least, it comes from Halong Bay, which is as local as you can get in Hanoi without tossing a line into West Lake. The rest is imported from Japan, like that otoro, as well as a host of seasonal specialties only listed in Japanese. Ask the servers or the chef what’s fresh — or the other customers. Beyond the familiar sushi and sashimi, Khang offers a vast sea of options. But the menu is laid out in a jumbled fashion, with so many dishes thrown onto one page that diners unfamiliar with Japanese cuisine might yearn for a life preserver. Here is yakitori, a dish of grilled chicken skewers commonly served as an appetizer; here are thick udon noodles in soup, udon stir-fried with vegetables, udon topped with crisp tempura. If one of the servers spots you looking lost, you will be pointed to the set meals — and for good reason. These offer a taste of the hearty fare that is as much an authentic part of Japanese cuisine as sushi or sashimi. Morsels of tender chicken are strewn across a golden layer of

THE VERDICT

12 Food

barely set egg, flavoured with the amber juice of nearly caramelised onions, in oyako-don (VND168,000). This translates as “parent-and-child rice bowl,” a witty play on the fact that it contains both chicken and eggs. Warm and soothing, the dish is perfect for winter.

Simple Pleasures

Service

10 Décor

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

The side dishes change with the seasons. In late winter, a root vegetable stew accompanies the set meal, laden with burdock, yam and crisp, bright emerald snap peas. The meal is rounded out by a bowl of miso soup and a few dishes of colourful pickles. At the end, when you feel that you can eat no more, a bite-size piece of glutinous rice (mochi) appears in front of you, dusted with green tea powder. When it comes to Japanese food, simplicity is considered a virtue. The same is true of the decor. The smooth wood-panelled interior looks like most other Japanese restaurants in the city. Quiet and elegant, it feels like an exercise in stillness. In the three years that Khang has been open, the restaurant has amassed a loyal clientele. You can see evidence for this on the shelves above the bar, loaded with sake bottles featuring their owners’ names scrawled on large labels: Mr Mori, Mr Ono, Mr Nakamura. After a meal here, you can understand why they return. Khang is located at 322 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3974 7902

Street Snacker

Hidden Treasures Huyen Tran finds an array of street food in a quiet alley away from the hustle and bustle of Dong Xuan Market. Photos by Francis Roux

ong Xuan market. Maybe you’ve been there, maybe you haven’t. Merchants packed into every possible centimetre of pavement, customers claiming any remaining space. It’s alive and chaotic, there are deliveries, shouting, motorbikes, honking, pushing, collisions. If you’re in need of escape, a few quiet minutes, head east, keep your eyes peeled and you should soon see it. Dong Xuan Market alley. But go slow or you might walk right by, it’s so small it’s easy to miss. The pedestrian alley, which connects the market to Hang Dieu, is blessedly free of motorbikes and honking., No-one seems to know exactly how old this alley is or how long it has been a place to grab a quiet lunch. According to locals whose families have lived here for generations, merchants from all regions gathered at the eastern gate of the market. As the market expanded peddlars brought food on shoulder poles, making the most of the opportunity provided by hungry merchants and buyers. Gradually, less transient stalls were established and this hidden alley became known as a place to find good Hanoi street food.

Combi Lunch One option is the combi lunch, a streetside

buffet. There’s a huge array of food to choose from; crab paste vermicelli, snail noodles, charcoal-grilled pork wrapped in herbs, mixed pho, eel noodles, pillow cakes, sweet gruel, snail and steamed crab and more. Just point to the dishes that look appetising and in the blink of an eye a plate of mouthwatering food will be in front of you.

Bun Oc Walking down the narrow alley it becomes apparent that bun oc or snail noodles is one of the most popular cuisines here — there are three stands to choose from. Ba Nhung, in her sixties, runs the most popular stand. “Our family has sold bun oc in this place for two generations,” she says. She is proud of the family recipe. “The secret to a tasty snail noodle is the sour stock, created from dam bong, a special vinegar made from cooking Vietnamese wine. It is the dam bong that creates the delicate contrast — the taste of the broth on your tongue is sour and a bit sweet.” The snails are carefully selected and cooked to ensure that they are crispy, fresh and rich. In the alley all three bun oc stands have kept to the traditional way of serving the dish; topped with cooked green bananas and crispy fried tofu. “Time flies,” says Ba Nhung. “I am 60 now and the taste of bun

oc has not changed a bit since I was a young girl.”

Pho Tiu The alley is also famous for a less traditional cuisine; pho tiu or mixed pho with pork, vegetables, herbs and peanuts. Pho tiu is an unusual hybrid, not widely known even by born-and-bred Hanoians. “From what I know, the pho tiu comes from hu tiu, a dish with Chinese origins.” Co Hanh, a pho tiu stall owner explains how it is made. “Rice noodles and bean sprouts are quickly boiled, then thinly sliced pork meat added. The thinner the pork meat is, the tastier it is, as sauces can be absorbed inside it. The pork meat should not be roasted for too long because it dries.” As with many dishes, the trick is in the sauce. Plus, of course, generous toppings of tasty fried onions, vegetables, herbs and peanuts. Like many other mixed dishes such as sweet and sour grated salad or nom, pho tiu reflects the style and diverse influences of Hanoi’s traditional specialties. Dong Xuan Market alley is located at the East of Dong Xuan Market. This food alley is especially crowded during lunchtime. The price of bun oc is VND30,000. Pho tiu is VND25,000 to VND30,000

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City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 075 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 079 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 085 / LEISURE & arts LISTINGS 096 / fashion listings 102 / home LISTINGS 104 / medical LISTINGS 106 Photo by aaron joel santos

A D D ITIONA L F E AT URE S

Business Buff 077 Sounds of the City 092 Book Buff 097 Cinema Buff 098 Travel Notes 101 Soul 107 74 | Word April 2013

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive Ogilvy & Mather Tien Phong Newspaper Building, 15 Ho list of our listings 8/F Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3822 3914

Accounting & Auditing 075

Language Schools 077

Advertising & Marketing 075

Legal Services 077

Business Consulting 075

Management Training 078

Business Groups 075

Market Research 078

Commercial Photography 076

public 078

corporate gifts 076

recruitment & Hr 078

housing & Real Estate 076

relocation & tracking

insurance 076

agents 078

international schools 076

Serviced Apartments 078

Investment & Finance 077

Accounting & Auditing Beverly Investment

Room 919, Suite 8, Song Da Building, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3794 9669 www.beverly.vn Professional investment company dealing with real estate resort, hotel and senior housing projects all over the country. Working to promote sustainable development, Beverly provides good value for its partners, investors, customers and society.

TMF Group

Unit 06-023, 6th Floor, Prime Center Building, 53 Quang Trung, Ha Dong 8th Floor, 53 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 9733 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 2660 Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC, Tel: 3910 2262 www.tmf-group.com TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

KPMG

16th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 1600 www.kpmg.com.vn Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also does executive search and selection.

PricewaterhouseCoopers

7th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3946 2246 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

Thang Long Auditing Company 23 Tran Duy Hung, Trung Hoa, Cau Giay Tel: 4976 2055 A Vietnamese company with more than 30 representative branches outside of Hanoi, Thang Long provides a full range of services, including audit, accounting, tax, corporate secretarial and business consultancy.

premiums; marketing; public relations & events. Clients include multi-national brands and NGOs.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited

2811, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: 3910 922 www.tmf-group.com With over 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. TMF is expanding rapidly throughout the world. Learn more about our unique network and our services by visiting our website.

advertising & marketing Crunchy Frog

www.ogilvy.com International marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know-how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity. 2nd floor, 63 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2246 0682 www.studiotada.com A small, young and elite designing and branding agency that has been working with well-known local and global brands like DMC, Hermes, Kenzo and Porsche. The company offers services in branding, event, print and digital. With a youthful, energetic and experienced team, Tada has played an important part in international graphic design and advertising projects across Vietnam and France.

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co Street, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com Leonito develops marketing campaigns & behaviour change communications strategies for commercial brands and nongovernment organizations. Services: brand development; design & printing; gifts &

AmCham

Room 2707, AB Bank Building, 101 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 0909 710994 www.amchamhanoi.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

T&A Ogilvy JVC Ltd.

British Business Group of Vietnam

Booz Allen Hamilton, Inc.

Leonito Marketing Consulting

business groups

AusCham

Level 8, 142 Le Duan, Dong Da www.red.tm Working from Vietnam to Australia, the Red team creates and shapes unique brand personalities to international and local brands. The team specialises in brand consultancy and marketing, regularly sharing industry trends, news and views at their blogsite, red.tm/blog.

Grey Group

10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com In addition to their own clients, Leonito works in partnership with the Grey Group, a major full-spectrum marketing and communications company with offices in nearly 100 countries. Services include research, branding, activations, events and public relations.

L3-14 Thuy Khue. Ba Dinh Tel: 3728 0776 www.t-cgroup.com A well-known Vietnamese conglomerate of companies operating since 1994, T&C’s focus is on providing internationalstandard consultation to engineering and infrastructure projects. They also provide market research consulting.

Red Brand Builders

3rd Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 6008 T&A is a marketing services company set up in Hanoi in 1995. Since then, they’ve offered their marketing services to several large overseas companies. They also work in co-operation with WPP, a world-wide brand communications firm.

Leonito

T&C Investment Holding

Studio Tada

8 Xom Chua, Tay Ho Tel: 01283 443579 www.crunchyfrogdesign.com Crunchy Frog is a personable and experienced western design and branding agency. They offer high quality creative and strategic solutions to both local and global clients. Services include research, brand and marketing strategy, and design of communications materials, brand identity, packaging and websites. 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.grey.com/vietnam Founded in 1917 in New York, Grey is a full spectrum global communications company offering branding, advertising, marketing, digital, and PR, with offices in 100 countries. Grey is the only agency with a specialised HoReCa team. In Vietnam, the client roster includes Nike, Vinaphone, Levis, TNT, ESPN, Bayer, Samsung Mobile, BaoViet, P&G, BAT, and 35 other top local and international brands.

tunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, stateowned and foreign.

business consulting Room 703, 7th Floor, MOF Project Building, No. 4, Lane 1, Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 9662 www.boozallen.com A US-based private consulting firm, Booz Allen Hamilton is one of the most notable names in the business. This firm has a long track record of assisting governments and multi-nationals in risk assessment and mission development.

Deloitte

8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da, Tel: 3852 4123 www.deloitte.com One of the Big Four, this firm offers a broad range of audit, tax, consulting, risk, and financial advice to businesses. Over 182,000 employees in more than 150 countries, Deloitte serve more than 80 percent of the world's largest companies, Vietnam now being one of them.

Dickerson Knight Group

33A Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 2692 www.thinkdkg.com Established in 1991, this international firm has extensive experience in emerging markets. Their speciality is in providing advisory and training products to private sector enterprises and NGOs.

Ernst & Young

Daeha Business Centre, 15th Floor, 360 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh, Tel: 4831 5100 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalize on oppor-

Room 2707, 1010 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3562 5786 ext. 107 www.auschamvn.org An organisation bringing together Australian companies and individuals doing business in Vietnam, the Australian Chamber of Commerce offers advice on doing business. Also offers networking opportunities and social events.

193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0906 240159 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

Icham

Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2393 www.icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the development of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

Lac Viet Computing Corp

Hanico Building 110 Thai Thinh, Dong Da Tel: 3512 1846 www.lacviet.com.vn Since its founding in 1994, professional services and innovative solutions has led LAC VIET to a recognized position of leadership in Vietnam. LAC VIET employs more than 400 professionals in IT services and product development. LAC VIET is a certified MicrosoftTM Gold Partner; CiscoTM Premier Reseller; Dell Distributor and Authorised Service Provider(DASP).

CCIFV

Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2229 www.ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

April 2013 Word | 75

EuroCham

G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2228. www.eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

NordCham

Suite 504, Thanh Ha Building, Linh Dam Tel: 3641 6864 www.nordchamhn.org.vn Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

Singapore Business Association Vietnam

Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: 4772 0833 www.sbav-hanoi.org An association that actively fosters business relations with other business communities while promoting social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities.

Commercial Photography Noi Pictures

25/158 Ngoc Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3747 8611 noipictures@noipictures.com www.noipictures.com Photography and film agency specialising in commercial assignments, stock photography and production services in Vietnam. Has a number of mainly overseas photog-

Hanoi Websites hanoigrapevine.com

The place to go for all things related to the arts in a city that is developing its own, vibrant contemporary arts scene. Has event calendars, event postings, blogs, addresses and contact details, and covers anything from classical music through to installations, rock concerts and more.

infosharehanoi.com

Provides the expat community with essential information for living and working in Hanoi including comprehensive and up-to-date events listings as well as address lists of galleries, cinemas, theatres, hotels, housing agencies, embassies and much more. Subscribe to receive their weekly newsletter.

linkhanoi.com

Event photos, a what’s on calendar, restaurant and bar listings and in fact, pretty much everything you want to know about nightlife in Hanoi can be found on this popular website. Also organize regular events and parties.

newhanoian.com

The city’s best known website, The New Hanoian provides user-generated listings, reviews and event information on pretty much anything and everything in the capital. Register, create your profile, write a review and receive frequent newsletters.

wordhanoi.com

The online extension of The Word, contains both content from the print edition as well as blogs, events, news, a what’s on calendar, party photos and much more. Also has downloadable PDF versions of the whole publication.

76 | Word April 2013

raphers in their books both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

corporate gifts Regal Premiums

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0685 7167 www.regalvietnam.com Regal Premiums produces trendy corporate gifts, premiums gifts, promotional gifts and branded mass giveaway items. Professional team helps with design to fit your brand and production and logistics to fit your budget.

housing & real estate CB Richard Ellis (Vietnam) Co., Ltd

6 Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 0220 www.cbrevietnam.com Finding the perfect accommodation to meet your various demands in Hanoi is made simple thanks to CBRE’s residential leasing team. Our services are inclusive of site finding, travelling fees, contract negotiation and resolving any other issues which arise during the term of the lease, all of which are free of charge for the tenant.

Colliers International Vietnam 9th floor, Vinaplast, Tai Tam Building, 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 5888 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represent property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management and support services. Attempt to accelerate the success of their clients by making their knowledge your property.

Creation

Room 802, Building 101, 101 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 2246 2232 A real estate company that provides both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Also offers free brokerage and many other support services.

Daluva Home

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.daluva.com/apartment Thoughtfully appointed and decorated, Daluva Home features a cosy bedroom for true rest, plus open living, dining, and work areas. Extras include two LCD TVs, iPod dock, and outdoor patio. Housekeeping, and daily breakfast from the Daluva Breakfast Menu are also included. Private car and tour booking service available.

Hanoi House Hunter

Quang Trung Building, Room 203, 39 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0983 336336 www.hanoihousehunter.com This company can assist you in finding an apartment that meets your living and budget requirements. Though they specialise in high-end, high-rise apartments, they do have a range of options. The website contains most listings.

Knight Frank

40 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem www.knightfrank.com UK real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sale, lease, management, price appraisal, counselling and market research.

Megaland

2nd Floor, 43 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5556 Specialising in meeting housing needs

of expatriates and overseas Vietnamese, Megaland offers a wide range of serviced apartments, villas and commercial spaces.

Savills Vietnam

6th floor, Sentinel Place, 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 1300 www.savills.com.vn A leading global real estate service provider listed on the London Stock Exchange with over 200 offices worldwide. Provides consultancy services, property management, space planning, facilities management, corporate real estate services, leasing, valuation and sales to the key segments of commercial, industrial, retail, residential and investment property.

Tan Long Housing

Moongate Building, 5th & 6th Floor, 107 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9864 www.tanlonghousing.com Tan Long has been concentrating on assisting individuals in the process of buying, selling and renting property in Hanoi since 1999. They also have several branch offices, and a useful website that can help to fill residential or commercial needs.

Three Temples

73B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 3366 www.threetemples.com Three Temples is a full-service, design-led property development and marketing company that specialises in creating residential addresses by providing high quality architecture, residential design, interior design, commercial consultancy, marketing and branding solutions. A onestop-shop to finance, design, brand and build for the finest residential products.

and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1 800 599 998.

Prudential

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 5999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centers throughout the country.

international schools Concordia International School Hanoi

CMC Tower, Duy Tan, Cau Giay Tel: 3795 8878 www.concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

Hanoi International School

48 Lieu Giai Boulevard, Ba Dinh www.hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

Vietnam Land

38 Phan Boi Chau Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3787 0188 Vietnam Land was incorporated in Vietnam in 2002 as a commercial and residential real estate services, real estate property management and real estate development company. Since that time Vietnam Land has successfully developed two residential towers at the Chelsea Park project in Hanoi and a residential land sales project in Hung Yen province called Villa Park.

insurance AIG

Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3936 1455 www.aig.com Offers a range of insurance products and services including property, casualty and marine exposure insurance. Also has comprehensive travel and accident coverage, as well as healthcare packages for expats residing in Vietnam.

IF Consulting

CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

Liberty Insurance

16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: 3755 7111 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises

International School of Vietnam

6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-for-profit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

KinderWorld International Kindergarten

Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra Tel: 3743 0306 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7243 Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI International School of Hanoi

#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6418 www.hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

Singapore International school

2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, 726 1601, Block C3, Ciputra, Tel: 3758 2664 An international school with an excellent record in a host of countries around the world, now available to those in Hanoi within its salubrious surrounds in Ciputra.

United Nations International School (UNIS)

Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org With more than 800 students from 50 different countries, UNIS is a non-profit IB World School that instructs students from as young as three years old through to grade 12. Established in 1988 by agencies representing the United Nations, the pristine campus has a broad range of facilities and is located in the gated community of Ciputra.

investment & finance Dragon Capital

11th Floor, Hanoi Lake View Bldg, 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0203 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

Indochina Capital

Floors 9-9A, 60 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3930 6399 www.indochinacapital.com A leading investment firm operating in the ASEAN region with a particular focus on Vietnam. Assists partners, co-investors and clients to achieve financial objectives while focusing on four core areas: corporate finance and advisory services, investment management and real estate development.

Mekong Capital

12th Floor, HAREC Building, 4A Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4888 www.mekongcapital.com A private equity firm which focuses on the growth equity of companies in the developing Vietnamese economy.

company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is an investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

language schools 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 2051 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers highquality and cost-effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres. 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 1922 www.britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

Cleverlearn

Building 3, 2C Diplomatic Compound, Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1698 www.cleverlearnvietnam.vn With two main schools in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Cleverlearn offers mainly conversational and business English courses. An authorised in iBT test site by the ETS.

Language Link Vietnam

62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3733 8402 www.languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

legal services Allens

Total Wealth Management

Baker & Mckenzie

Viet Tin Financial Co.

1st & 2nd Floor, 40 Pho Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3941 1566 www.viet-tin.com A locally based securities and stock brokerage firm whose stated mission is to provide valued returns to partners and shareholders.

VinaCapital

5th Floor, Sun City Building, 13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 4630 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management

By Shane Dillon

British Council

VIT Tower, 18th Floor, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 2220 8979 The Vietnamese subsidiary of France’s Societe Generale, the company recently opened a Hanoi branch. This was the first financial company in Vietnam to focus entirely on consumer credit. 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 3820 0623. www.t-wm.com TWM provides information related to inter-country personal financial planning. They will walk you through the solutions and products available and will constantly monitor and manage your portfolio through opportunity and instability in global financial markets.

** Invest in What? * *

Apollo

Suite 401, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3936 0990 Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

SG VietFrance

{business Buff}

13th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1428 www.bakernet.com One of the first international law firms to establish representative offices in Vietnam, Baker & McKenzie provide onthe-ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

Frasers Law Company

Unit 1205, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3946 1203 www.frasersvn.com As the first legal firm licensed as a foreign law company in Vietnam, Frasers provides legal advice on all areas of business and commerce within the country. They provide international legal advice in a Vietnamese context, and are ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising in this jurisdiction.

Choice of fancy

Stamps

Due to the fact that many stock markets have experienced high volatility in recent years, the ever-growing bands of wealthy Asian citizens are finding some interesting alternative investments. The following are some of the more bizarre, yet real investments people are making in the region.

Recently a collection of four stamps from the Cultural Revolution sold for over US$1 million at a Hong Kong auction. Stamps, like wine and art, have experienced a marked surge in prices as wealthy Chinese have sought out alternate investments.

Walnuts

345 grams of high-end Chinese teas like PuErh, which can be more than a century old, can cost over US$25,000. A tea grower that used panda dung to fertilize his tea plant sold 50 grams of tea for US$3,500. The Asian fascination with tea has been likened to Western fascination with wine.

Going for up to US$10,000 each, walnuts that play a traditional role for the emperors of China and wealthy older people are gaining in popularity again. Especially sought after are walnuts with carvings, or those that are hundreds of years old.

Racing Birds A long-time hobby in the region, people are spending some serious coin on pigeons in the hope of creating good blood lines for the future, as they do with race horses. Current prices are as much as US$300,000 a bird, and some experts believe this could increase two fold in the coming years. Most sought after are imported Belgian birds.

Jade In the early 2000s an ounce of Jade was around US$300 (VND6.3 million), in 2010 the price was over US$3,000 (VND63 million) and more expensive than gold. Prices have gone down in recent years and many believe the Jade bubble could burst at any time.

Aged Tea

Moon Cakes The Bank of Communications is reportedly selling a 500gram gold moon cake at US$3,340 (VND70 million), while ICBC Bank is offering a gift box of two 50-gram gold moon cakes, inscribed with auspicious motifs and Chinese characters, for US$6,820 (VND143 million). The popularity has raised questions about the practices of Chinese officials since they largely placed the orders and the moon cakes typically weren’t gifted to family or friends. Shane works in financial services he can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

April 2013 Word | 77

Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer

#05-01 International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 7422 This law firm works in 19 countries and is one of the world’s largest. They regularly advise large clients on international investment, banking and finance.

Gide Loyrette Nouel A.A.R.P.I.

Pacific Place, Suite 505 – 507, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 2350 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 24 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services which combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

Rouse Legal (Hanoi Branch)

7th Floor, VIT Building, 519 Kim Ma, Dong Da Tel: 3577 0479 www.iprights.com Rouse is an international intellectual property law firm. From HCMC and Hanoi we advise on protection and enforcement of trade marks, patents, copyright and domain names; commercial IP, IP management/strategy.

Russin & Vecchi

11/F, Hanoi Central Office Bldg., Suite 1104, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3825 1700 A financial law firm which focuses on commercial and investment matters for corporate clients. In some cases they can provide assistance to individual clients.

management training British University Vietnam

193 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 7596 www.britishuniversity.edu.vn The first university offering prestigious UK degrees in Vietnam. Courses offered in 2010 include International Business Administration, Banking & Finance, Accounting & Finance, Marketing Management, Accounting & Business. Pre-university courses are also available.

G&H Management Services

HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh Tel: 3762 3805 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign-invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in-house programs to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic-based business and management programmes.

RMIT

Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1460. www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and longterm courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

market research Cimigo

142 Le Duan, Dong Da Tel: 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com www.cimigo.com Independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in Hanoi and the Asia Pacific region in general. Services include auditing and optimising research programs, knowledge manage-

78 | Word April 2013

ment, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

Indochina Research

7th Floor, 73 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4661 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina. Focus is on developing partnerships that leverage their market knowledge and on enhancing their client’s competitive position in the region.

The Nielsen Company

3rd floor, 85 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 1161 www.nielsen.com Media company offering integrated marketing and media measurement information and analytics. Offers full service capability across qualitative, quantitative, media and retail measurement for FMCGs, consumer products, finance, telecoms and more.

Vinalink

11th Floor, Lang Ha Building, 14 Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: 3772 4234 www.vinalink.com Specialising in online survey-based market research, Vinalink is a subcontractor for a few global market research firms, including CALEB Global and Pulse Group.

public relations Media One

Rm 207, 40A Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3966 www.media-one.vn PR company with offices both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Focuses mainly on the Telecom and IT industries, providing a range of services including events, product activation, consulting, marketing and advertising.

Pioneer Communications

Floor 6, 58 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3945 4398. www.pioneervn.com Pioneer Communications is one of the leading agencies in providing integrated marketing and public relations solutions for businesses and organiastions in Vietnam.

TQPR

Room 109, House K, 7, 2ha, Vinh Phuc Ward, Ba Dinh., Tel: 32474 028 www.tqpr.com One in a group of companies from Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, the company offers international standard consultancy services and value-added results to local, regional and global clients.

Venus Communications

4 Da Tuong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7066 Well-known PR and communications company with offices in both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Offers the full range of PR, advertising and consultancy services.

recruitment & hr Aon Vietnam Limited

14th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0832 www.aon.com/vietnam Founded in Vietnam in 1994, among other things, Aon now concentrates on human capital consulting, assisting their clients with compensation, benefit analyses and outsourcing.

HR2B

Suite A6, 3rd Floor, Horison Office Center, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3736 6843 www.hr2b.com The forte of this company is placing highly talented Vietnamese and expat candidates into executive positions at medium to large companies. Rapidly growing, in the past years they’ve added Coca Cola, DHL and Prudential to their client list.

Manpower Vietnam

12th Floor, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 4574 www.manpower.com.vn Established in Vietnam at the beginning of 2008, Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

Navigos Group

Suite 1401, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung , Tel: 3974 3033 www.navigosgroup.com Adept at solving human resource challenges through excellence in matching and management talent. Has offices in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

relocation & tracking agents AGS Four Winds (Vietnam)

41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 8762 www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices across the world we can move your to and from any location.

Allied Pickfords

8 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 6275 2824 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

Asian Tigers Transpo

Inland Customs Depot Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: 3768 5882 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption to family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

Crown Relocation Services

95E Ly Nam De, Ba Dinh , Tel: 3936 6741 www.crownrelo.com Offering both family and corporate relocation services locally and internationally, Crown prides themselves on being a kidfriendly company.

Image Group Housing

No 17 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 4375 www.hanoihousing.vn A one-stop housing service that specialises in relocation, trained professionals can take care of housing rentals, short and long term as well as car rentals. They also have an extension showroom for furniture rental and custom furniture, making your transition as easy as possible.

JVK Indochina Movers

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3826 0334 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international

and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Resident Vietnam

3A Alley, 49 Huynh Thuc Khang Tel: 3773 7191 www.residentvietnam.com Established in 2000, Resident Vietnam was the first dedicated Expatriate Service Provider in Vietnam. Resident Vietnam provides full relocation and immigration management services to several multinational companies in Vietnam and ser vices the Global Mobility industry.

Santa Fe Relocation Services

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Union Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0908 096222 sales@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. We are proud to be the only moving company with both ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

serviced apartments Atlanta Residences

49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0912 239085 www.atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

Daluva Home

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 Whether traveling or on a temporary stay, Daluva can provide space & comfort. Thoughtfully appointed Daluva Homes feature a cozy bedroom for true rest, and an open living area that opens up to a terrace with plants.

Fraser Suites

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 8877 http://hanoi.frasershospitality.com Great location in Syrena Tower on West Lake, Fraser Suites offer a tranquil repose from the busy city. Has several apartments with excellent views and provides gold-standard service.

Mayfair

34B Tran Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0030 www.mayfair-hanoi.com A building with a great location, and some of the largest apartments you’ll find. The Mayfair is popular among the diplomatic and international business communities.

Sedona Suites

No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0888 www.sedonahotels.com.sg 175 well-designed, furnished apartments and villas combining the comforts of home with the conveniences of a fine hotel.

Somerset Grand Hanoi

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 2342 www.somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24-hour reception and central location.

Destination

LISTINGS

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visit wordhanoi.com for a Halong Dream Hotel comprehensive list of our listings $$$ 10 Halong Road, Halong , Tel: 0333 849 009 CREDIT

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www.halongdreamhotel.com Close to the pier and the new bridge, what this hotel lacks in character is made up for in cleanliness and comfort. There are 184 rooms priced between VND2 million and VND6 million. Other facilities include indoor pool, health club and sauna.

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Halong Plaza

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$$$ 8 Halong Road, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: 0333 845810, www.halongplaza.com One of the many large tower-type hotels in Halong City, Halong Plaza has pretty much everything you’d expect from a 4-star hotel. 200 rooms, a bar and a restaurant that touts its seafood and barbecue.

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Novotel Ha Long Bay

hotels, the aircon old but clean rooms come in all shapes and sizes and have satellite TV, a fridge and a mini bar. The front-desk staff speaks English and can help sort out any travel arrangements. Rates from around VND250,000 per night.

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$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness center with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relax lounge and VIP massage room.

Harbour View Hotel

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$$$ $$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, 4 Tran Phu, Hai Phong Quang Ninh. Tel: 0333 848108 Tel: 031 382 7827 www.novotelhalongbay.com www.harbourviewvietnam.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the Hai Phong’s most prestigious address, this beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close cool, retro French-colonial style property proximity to major attractions such as is the only international standard hotel in bay cruises and local markets. Featuring town. Designed with panache without be214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and ing pretentious, room rates at this 122-unit one professional spa with seven treatproperty start at around VND2.5 million. ment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including a Huu Nghi Hotel pool with swim-up bar overlooking the $$$ limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or 60A Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong family holidays. Tel: 031 384 2706 www.huunghihotel.vn Ocean Beach Resort One of the larger hotels in town, Huu Nghi $$$ offers some of the comforts you might www.oceanbeachresort.com.vn miss at the other places. In addition to the This resort is on a private island just off clean up-to-standard rooms, the hotel also of Cat Ba Island. Around VND600,000 will has a swimming pool and tennis courts. get you a comfortable room in a bungalow close to the beach. Fee also includes the Maxim Hotel boat ride from Cat Ba. For more informa$$ tion check on the web. 3K Ly Tu Trong, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 374 6540 New and tidy, with cable TV and airPeace Hotel conditioning, Maxim is one of the best $ mini hotels in town. Rooms are small 39 Vuon Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh but have good modern conveniences like Tel: 0333 846009 satellite TV and new, clean bathrooms Found just outside Halong City on Bai done in designer tiles. Room rates around Chay beach, this is clean, honest accomVND250,000 to VND300,000 a night. modation for a reasonable price. Located on “Hotel Alley”, there are a lot of options Monaco Hotel here. The rooms are fairly well looked 103 Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong after and clean. You can usually get one Tel: 031 374 6468 for under VND400,000, but prices vary One of the more modern hotels on Dien depending on the season. Bien Phu Street, the prices here are competitive and it’s possible to request a room Princes Hotel with a kitchen. Standards with aircon and $ a TV start at VND350,000 per night. Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Tel: 0313 888899 This is one of the better hotels on Cat hanoi – international Ba Island. Large, clean rooms with all the modern conveniences, as well as a Crowne Plaza West Hanoi restaurant and a popular bar. The front $$$ desk can also arrange tailor-made tours Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem around the bay. Tel: 6270 6688. www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property. This Royal Hotel 24-storey mixed-use complex lies next to $$$$ My Dinh National Stadium and close to 66 Pho Ha Long, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh the National Convention Centre. Boasting Tel: 0333 848999. www.royalhalong.com 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two The four-star Royal Hotel boasts villas, swimming pools and a spa and fitness well-landscaped gardens and a pool, all centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the overlooking Halong Bay. Just two minutes best meetings and conference facilities walk from Bai Chay, the property has a in town. resort feel and the rooms are housed in several buildings. If you’re feeling lucky, Daewoo Hotel there’s also a ‘Gaming Club’. $$$ 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 5555 hai phong www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com This enormous structure offers the most Bach Dang Hotel modern of amenities, and with four restau$$ 42 Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 384 2444 rants and two bars, the events staff is well bachdanghotelhp@hn.vnn.vn equipped to handle any occasion. Close to One of the best of the town’s best budget the National Convention Center, and a CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING GYM GYM

dalat Blue Moon Hotel Resort and Spa

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and modern amenities, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa, and prices to match.

Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic hotel, but it’s right in the middle of town.

danang

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$ 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private place has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from $10 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

Trung Cang Hotel

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat , Tel: 063 382 2663 You get door-to-door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the

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Danang Beach Resort

$$$ Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Coastal Street Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son, Tel: 0511 396 1800 With six different styles of villa units that offer views of the ocean, the mountains and a green of a golf course, the Danang Beach Resort is one of the most luxurious places to stay in this much overlooked city. The property also offers 33-storey twin towers housing a five-star hotel and golf courses adding up to 36 holes. CREDIT CREDITCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three-night tours are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude-cruises.com This reproduction of a 19th-century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in impeccably maintained cabins. The great food and service adds to the already beautiful setting. They also offer transfers directly from Hanoi.

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Emeraude Classic Cruises

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Bhaya Cruises, Halong Bay

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Bai Tu Long Ecotourism Resort $ Halong Commune, Van Don , Tel: 0333 793156 Stay in a beachside bungalow or a traditional resort-style hotel on the shores of Van Don Island. Bai Tu Long Bay is situated just up the coast from Halong City. The staff here can help you arrange tours that will offer scenery a bit different than the standard tours of Halong Bay.

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32 Anh Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846099 Hai Long Junks is one of the three largest cruise operators in Halong Bay. The company boasts 11 overnight cruise vessels with a total of 160 cabins and 15 traditional junks with capacities from

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April 2013 Word | 79

{ travel Promos }

favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

Fortuna Hotel Hanoi

$$$ 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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European Retreat

** PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH * * Holidays Made Easier

Looking for an escape from the city heat? Retreat for cheap with Air France and KLM’s sunshine deals on round trip getaways to Europe. Destination deals include Paris from VND20 million, Marseille from VND22 million and Rome from VND22.75 milliom. Take advantage of this offer by booking before Apr. 7 for departures between Jul. 1 to Sep. 30, departing from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.

Leading low-cost carrier VietJetAir is announcing its brand new route from Hanoi to Nha Trang just in time for summer. Flight crew set the holiday mood with vacation beach attire on board, jumpstarting passengers’ escape to Vietnam’s leading holiday destinations. VietJetAir customers will go from stuffy city streets to pristine beaches in a mere two hours, ready to enjoy Nha Trang’s charm.

Find complete information on destinations and deals at airfrance.com.vn, on the Best Offers page

vietjetair.com

Edensee Resort Perched atop a serene lake and surrounded by stunning Dalat landscape, the idyllic Edensee Resort is offering the perfect getaway for the Liberation holiday weekend. Escape the hustle and bustle of the daily grind with the promise of luxurious overnight accommodation and delectable dining options, all while enjoying the natural charm and modern sophistication of luxury at its best. Three day/two night packages at VND2.6million++ are inclusive of dinners and a uniquely European afternoon tea in the lobby every afternoon. For more information on these packages, available Apr. 27 to May 2, visit dalatedensee.com

Mercure Danang On Apr. 29 to Apr. 30 at the Mercure Danang there will be fireworks and an international BBQ-style buffet for only VND800,000 per person, inclusive of food, one drink and access to our balcony to watch Danang’s international fireworks competition. The hotel’s spring package at Karma Spa will spoil guests with a full body massage followed by a scalp and foot massage to restore the energy of your body and soul. Only VND1.09 million net per person for 120 minutes. The offer is valid until May 1. mercure-danang.com

Summer in Utopia MGallery La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc offers guests a descent into bliss this summer with special Summer Chill deals. Resort guests staying between May 1 and Sep. 30 will enjoy rooms from VND2.5 million++ per night, complimentary breakfast for two, a 10 percent discount at resort dining locations and a 10 percent discount on luxurious spa experiences. All will enjoy the comforts of round-trip airport transfer, welcome drinks and fruit platters upon arrival, personal check-in at the resorts bar and much more. laverandaresorts.com

80 | Word April 2013

Great Escape to Six Senses at Con Dao Con Dao, an untouched and breathtakingly beautiful archipelago only 45 minutes from Ho Chi Minh City by air, is a perfect getaway destination for any city-goer needing a great escape. During the month of April, the deal gets more alluring at Six Senses, which lies along 1.6 km of sandy beach, surrounded by picturesque, mountainous landscapes and stunning turquoise waters. The staff will provide a hospitable greeting with a complimentary welcome drink. Let your worries melt with a gratuitous ritual bath, and wake up refreshed with an a la carte breakfast — starting at VND5.9 million++ per night. sixsenses.com

Legendary Saigon Riverfront Getaway Running until Apr. 21, Saigon’s five-star, riverfront international hotel, Legend Hotel Saigon, is once again offering Vietnamese and expats residing in Vietnam a Weekend Getaway Package. Choose to stay on Friday, Saturday, Sunday or any public holiday and for VND2,013,000++ per night, Legend will start the giving when you check in with a welcome drink and a fruit basket in the room, and 10 percent off food and drinks. Casually wake up with a buffet breakfast for two at the Atrium Café, and stroll out when ready with a 3pm checkout time. legendsaigon.com

Kazakhstan links up with HCMC Air Astana officially launched its air route linking the city of Almaty in Kazakhstan and Ho Chi Minh City last month with weekly flights on Wednesdays and Fridays, with six business class and 150 economy class seats. Flights departing from Almaty to Ho Chi Minh City via the Thai capital Bangkok will take nine hours. Total flight time is only seven hours for passengers departing from Ho Chi Minh City to Almaty. airastana.com

Golden Silk Boutique Hotel

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969, www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) and daily replenished minibar and snacks service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare, and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails. CREDIT

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Hanoi Hilton

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0500, www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this fivestar is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top-end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area.

Pullman Hotel

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0808, www.pullman-hanoi.com A recent refit and a change of management — this property is now run by the Accor group — have given this 250-room hotel the sparkle that it had once lost. Good quality deluxe rooms and suites, a cavernous but contemporary looking lobby, an excellent buffet and a la carte restaurant, and a sleek image that would be at home anywhere in the world, this business traveller-orientated property is also close enough to the Old Quarter to make it a great stopping off point for anyone wanting to explore Hanoi.

Hotel de l’Opera

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$$$$ 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555, contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

InterContinental Hanoi Westlake

$$$$ 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental.com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

Marigold Hotel CREDIT

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$$$ 17A Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com A contemporary boutique hotel a stone’s throw from Hang Cot in the Old Quarter. Colonial era accents throughout and an oriental themes lobby. 32 upmarket rooms and an intimate top class restaurant make this a strong contender in an area with plenty of competition.

Melia Hanoi

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$$$$ 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 3343, www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

Mercure Hanoi La Gare

$$$ 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3944 7766 When your train arrives from Sapa at 5am, you will be overjoyed if your bed is just across the street from the station in one of the 102 spacious rooms at this smart hotel. A stone’s throw from both the Old Quarter and the Temple of Literature, Mercure Hanoi boasts a French brasserie, an internal courtyard, a fitness centre and a retail outlet of wine importer and distributor Da Loc. CREDIT

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$$$$ 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3822 2800, www.moevenpick-hanoi.com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Thang Long Opera Hotel

$$$ 1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 4775 www.thanglongopera.com This hotel houses 71 spacious, comfortable rooms all equipped with high speed internet, bath tub and room service. They have a meeting room, which can accommodate up to 60 people, as well as a restaurant and bar downstairs. CREDIT

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hanoi – mid-range 6 on Sixteen

16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

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Giabao Hanoi & Giabao Grand

$$$ 38 & 23 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2222 Two mid-range hotels situated in the heart of Hanoi,just 150 meters from Hoan Kiem Lake. Built using a blend of western and oriental architecture, the properties have 28 and 35 rooms respectively, all with mod-cons. For a bit more luxury stay at the Giabao Grand. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Golden Lotus Hotel

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$$ 32 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8583 www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn The interesting arty decor of this place is a bonus, as is its value for money – it’s not often you pay under VND1 million for a modern hotel room slap bang in the middle of town. Try to get a front room (with balcony) to look out over the bustling Old Quarter. They’ve also opened a second Golden Lotus just down the street at number 39.

Hanoi Spring Hotel II

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$$ 38 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 8500 www.hanoispringhotel.com One of the only hotels in the Old Quarter to have a balcony with each room, this new boutique is middle of the range but feels higher. Run by Australian expats and partners with a wealth of experience in the hotel industry, expect great service. Awesome western breakfasts and Vietnamese lunch and dinners. The top floor honeymoon suite has perfect views of St Josephs Cathedral.

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 ww.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Joseph’s Hotel

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$$$$ 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888

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May de Ville

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$$$ 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition

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$$ 44 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 3667 www.camellia-hotels.com Basic rooms and friendly service at this well-known hotel. One of six properties of the same name in Hanoi, internet terminals are located in the lobby, and the property also offers a host of tour itineraries. Rooms vary in price from VND500,000 to VND700,000. Some of their other locations are more budget-friendly. $ 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

Little Hanoi Hotel

Maison D’Hanoi Hanova Hotel

$$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake, this boutique hotel is fitted with 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have wi-fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.5 million for a guest room to VND4.5 million for a suite.

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$$$ 34 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5053 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact, with small but clean bathrooms, and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi-Fi connections available. Some of the locations include sauna, steam bath and fitness facilities

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com, www.josephshotel.com Just to the side of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a well-appointed, comfortable boutique hotel. Brightly decorated, the property’s 10 rooms have Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV and a mini bar. Prices start at VND650,000 a night. No smoking except for on the upstairs balconies.

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Sofitel Plaza Hanoi

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Hong Ngoc Hotel

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$$$$ K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000, www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

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Hanoi Backbacker’s Hostel

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$$$ 4 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 1256 www.zephyrhotel.com.vn A mid-size boutique hotel with a prime location, Zephyr offers a range of packages and special offers on rooms that are clean and stylish. The lobby boasts a coffee house and restaurant with both Asian and Western Cuisine.

Camellia Hotel

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hanoi – budget

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Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi

Sheraton

to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

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$ 58 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8648 www.littlehanoihotel.com Spacious rooms with ADSL broadband connections starting at around VND600,000 a night. The rooms at the front are more expensive, and breakfast is included. The staff speak good English and are very helpful. Has a number of sister hotels in town, two of which are located next to the cathedral. The third is on Tue Tinh, close to Lenin Park. Check the website for details.

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ho chi minh city Caravelle Hotel

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s

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top100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth-floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

Continental

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$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental-saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the best of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

Equatorial

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Big and businesslike, with seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also boasts the biggest banquet facilities in the city.

Guest House California

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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$$$$ 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Luxury accommodation with a stylish club Lounge boasting panoramic views, as well as the finest meeting and banquet facilities in town – all designed with the savvy traveller in mind. The 21-floor tower includes 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a Presidential Suite. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Lan Lan Hotel 2

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106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 094464

Phung Motorbike Rental & Sales 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 253491 phungmoto@ovi.com Well-maintained motorbikes for hire at reasonable rates, plus servicing and repairs for modern and vintage bikes.

Quan’s Motorbike & Bicycle Rentals 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941 Standard rental shop doing hire by the day and by the month.

Vietnam Motorcycle Adventures 36 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (down alley in between No. 34 & No. 36) Tel: 3904 5049 Bespoke motorbike tours, rental of automatic and manual bikes plus repairs.

VIP Bike Rentals 64, Alley 71 Tan Ap, Tay Ho (off Tan Ap Street, close to Sofitel Plaza) Tel: 0914 931390 Bike rentals and repairs. Good reputation. Formerly part of the Blue Dragon Foundation.

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BUSINESS

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

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Park Hyatt

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1. Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous-looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation and the Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

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Ramana Hotel

Mr Cao Motorbike Rental

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid-range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

New World

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InterContinental Asiana Saigon

Renaissance Riverside

$$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus one of the best-regarded Chinese restaurants in the city. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first-class facilities topped by an open-air restaurant 23 floors above the city. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com True class on an attractive (and historic) CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asia n restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

hoi an & danang Cua Dai

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family-run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air-conditioned rooms and pleasant staff.

Furama Resort & Spa

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort

$$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang Tel: 0511 393 8888, info@icdanang.com www.intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed InterContinental Danang is nestled within one of the region’s most exquisite locations. All 197 of the resort’s rooms, suites and beachfront villas are designed to take full advantage of their location and panoramic South China Sea views. Large terraces and shuttered windows elevate private living spaces that draw in the surrounding jungle and crystal bay, and add depth to the already large rooms that start from 70sqm.

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3. Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A 4-star business class hotel, The Ramana Hotel boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a Business Centre, a well-equipped Fitness Room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club, The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2 km from the city centre and 3 km from the airport.

Sheraton

street, offering a mix of rooms and suites, top-notch facilities, and restaurant cuisine which can match anything in the city. Without a doubt one of the nicest places to stay in the city.

Huy Hoang 1

$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

Life Resort Hoi An

Ana Mandara Hue

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$$$$ Thuan An Town, Phu Vang District, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam, Tel: 08 6291 3030 sales1@anamandarahue-resort.com www.hotelcollectionindochine.com Located on Thuan An Beach, a 20-minute drive from central Hue, the five-star Ana Mandara is the only beach resort with pool villas in the area. The property has a total of 78 rooms and villas, including beach pool villas, beach villas, duplex rooms and deluxe rooms in a wide range of styles and decor designed with modern facilities. Offers private rice paddy dinners, beach BBQs and cruises through the local fish farms.

Guesthouse Van Xuan

$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6561 An excellent option for those on a tight budget, with a comfortable room plus balcony and satellite TV coming in at around VND200,000. An additional bonus is the pleasantness of the staff.

Imperial Hue

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high-rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million ++ for a deluxe city view room.

La Residence

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la-residence-hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark-stained wood furnishings, this is traditional Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life-resorts.com Recently refurbished after a recent flood, this award-winning resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

The Nam Hai

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Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

$$$ Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com If you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional-looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood. CREDIT CREDITCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000, www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, the Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, preprogrammed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

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Le Domaine de Tam Hai

Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Pull up some (private) beach and relax, at

Phuong Hoang Hotel

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub-VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

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$$$$ 130 Minh Mang, Hue, Tel: 054 388 5461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com A collection of rustic villas located in the countryside close to Hue and its historical landmarks. Villas range from the traditional Vietnamese pool house to the family bungalow. The boutique, imperial-era Vietnam styled resort also holds cooking classes, makes tour arrangements and

Mai Chau Lodge

has an on-site spa.

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$$$ Tel: 0218 386 8959, www.maichaulodge.com If real comfort is what you want, this is surely the best bet in Mai Chau. The rooms are modern and classy, with room service, sauna and internet connections. The newly built Water Lily Cottage offers a luxury version of the house on stilts. Give a call for exact directions, or you can check their website. CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING GYM GYM

Sun Spa Resort

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com This top-end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh, about 150 miles from Hue. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

mai chau & hoa binh Communal Guest House 1

$$$ Poom Village, Mai Chau, Tel: 0912 320990 One of the larger stilt houses in Poom Village, the bamboo floor you can expect to sleep on is more comfortable than you might expect, and this house has a pleasant view of a lotus pond. Like at all the other stilt houses here, drink and dance can be arranged.

La Ferme du Colvert

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam-aventure.com This eco-village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in ten houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

Mai Chau Guesthouse

At the farthest end of town, Mai Chau Tel: 0218 386 7262 This hotel seems to offer bare-bones amenities, but if you don’t fancy sleeping on the rattan floor of a stilt house, this is a couple good steps above, and the rooms are quite inexpensive. Be prepared for the noise from the karaoke bars which surround the place.

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Mai Chau Nature Place

House 38, Ban Lac Village, Tel: 3938 1443 www.maichaunatureplace.com A perfect mix between a home-stay experience and comfortable hotel. The private rooms are beautifully quaint while the communal sleeping option is more typical of rural lodges. Both options come with modern and clean bathrooms, traditional home-cooked meals, free bicycles and friendly, in-the-know, staff.

Ngoc Bach

$$$$ House 100, Quarter 2, Mai Chau, Tel: 0218 386 7340 If a sturdy bed is what you crave, this might be your answer. The rooms are large and clean, with a working television and shower with hot water. Might not be the Hilton, but for an aching back it’s a step above a bamboo floor and a mat.

nam dinh & ninh binh Cuc Phuong Guest House

$$$$ 396 Quoc Lo 14, Dong Xoai, Binh Phuoc Tel: 0651 387 9764 Accommodation here is quite basic, but this place offers a good deal in relation to the other places around, if you want a place to sleep before a long day of park touring.

Cuc Phuong National Park

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Park accommodation, in modern rooms,

stilt houses and detached bungalows, includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms available at park hq, the park centre, and on the road linking the two.

Thanh Thuy Guest House

$ 128 Le Hong Phong, Ninh Binh, Tel: 030 387 1811 Refurbished in 2004, this has big, clean rooms that are great value for the money. There is an in-house restaurant that will make it redundant to eat elsewhere. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND400,000 for a double deluxe room. The staff speak very good English.

Thuy Anh Hotel

$$ 55A Truong Han Sieu, Ninh Binh. Tel: 030 387 1602 This hotel is slightly more expensive than its neighbors, but the reason is apparent once you walk in. The rooms in the newer building are especially nice and, together with the better than decent restaurant downstairs, this one can make for a good stop over.

nha trang

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa. Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-HideawayNinh-Van-Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top-drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at VND15 million++ for a beach pool villa.

Novotel Nha Trang

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com This stylish four-star hotel is centrally located on the main street of the resort city of Nha Trang. Along with 154 modern rooms, each with terrace and a stunning sea view, Novotel Nha Trang offers a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room catering for up to 200 delegates. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandaranhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa-style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

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$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang). Tel: 058 362 2384 On a secluded – almost deserted – CREDIT CARD

Six Senses Hideaway Ninh Van Bay

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Jungle Beach Resort

promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick-up from Nha Trang and the down-to-earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

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Sao Mai Hotel

99 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 7412 Try to get a seaview room with private balcony at this friendly and very cheap hotel, which also has a rooftop terrace. Rooms have basic but adequate facilities and it is well located.

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Sunrise Beach Resort

Khach San Dien Bien Phu

$$ 849 Duong 7-5, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 382 5103 Pretty much what it sounds like: a Dien Bien Phu guest house. Rooms are made for sleeping and not much else, but at good prices. Cleanliness and comfort are acceptable and about average for this type of establishment.

$$$ 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Luxury boutique hotel in the city centre and right across from the beach is well geared up for the family and business trade, with kids’ room, beach recreation, restaurants offering Japanese, Vietnamese and European cuisine, pool bar, beach bar, sky bar and a Qi spa. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$ 4 Duong, 26-8 Rd, Son La, Tel: 022 385 5313 The explanation of the name is a mystery, but with 100 rooms it could probably house a mid-size union. Not the cheapest place in town, but the rooms are extra large and fairly well-kept. If you want to spend some time with satellite television, this is your place. Price range is VND500,000 to VND600,000, breakfast included.

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$ 1 Kim Dong, Cao Bang. Tel: 026 385 3431 A large, government-run hotel popular with tour groups. Rooms are super-sized, with big windows and some even have views. They also take credit cards, which might not be expected here. Room rates are around VND400,000.

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$ 84 Pho Tran Dang Ninh, Lang Son, Tel: 025 387 0349 This place offers basic accommodation at a good price. Don’t expect too much, but as an en route stop-over, Hoang Nguyen will definitely do.

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$ 14 Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang, Tel: 0219 386 1288 The large, comfortable sleeping quarters here may come as a surprise in these parts. But these are the things that have made Huy Hoan so popular. Several tour groups use the place as a stopover, and the staff is adept at fulfilling their needs. CREDIT

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322 www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim-up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar. One of the better appointed resorts in the area. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com The first all-villa luxury boutique resort in Vietnam, the Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh Ciry and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and a 24-hour butler service, this is one of the most luxurious resorts in the country. Definitely one of the most exclusive. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$ Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang. Tel: 0219 386 3019 One of the first guesthouses you see as you arrive in town, location has made this guesthouse a popular stop off point. The sleeping accommodations are clean and comfortable, enough to enjoy a good night’s sleep and shower.

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Blue Ocean Resort

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$ V159 Vuon Cam, Cao Bang, Tel: 026 385 7026 Thanh Loan is a smaller hotel with more attention paid to the details. Still, expect basic accommodation, but, all said, a good bargain.

Thai Nguyen Hotel

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2 Hoang Van Thu, Thai Nguyen, Tel: 0280 385 2803 Your standard two-star establishment, Thai Nguyen is one of the best (and one of the only) choices in the vicinity. It’s quite a large hotel considering its location, so booking shouldn’t be a problem.

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Shades Apartments

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$$$ 2 Hoang Van Thu, Lai Chau. Tel: 0231 387 5829 Offers reasonable guesthouse-style rooms with air conditioning, some of them with balconies. Take a look at the rooms before you rent as the quality may vary.

La Veranda

Topas Ecolodge

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Victoria Sapa

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc. Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco-friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around. Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up excellent food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea. CREDIT CARD

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Phu Quoc Resort Thang Loi

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522, www.victoriahotels-asia.com Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from $135 to $250 per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in-room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow-style resort, which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid-back and simple. And cheap.

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas-eco-lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco-cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

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tam dao

Green World Hotel

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$ Khu Nhi Mat, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4315 A big new hotel, Green World has 100 CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD

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$ 7 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1243 Despite being in the centre of town, some of the back rooms offer nice views. There is also a good French-style restaurant downstairs, which is what you might expect considering the décor and name. Prices vary, but a room should generally cost around VND400,000. CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD

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$$ 18 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1075 One of the best things about the Bamboo Hotel is the view, so make sure you check out the room first – some are better than others. There is aircon if needed, but you might want to ask for extra blankets in winter, in spite of electric heaters. Rooms here are between VND700,000 and VND1 million a night. The premium here is on the views. CREDIT CARD

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Hmong Mountain Retreat

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7440 Much more than its name suggests, with beautiful landscaped tropical gardens leading onto a stretch of pristine beach and an outdoor bar, well-positioned to make the best of the scenery. Has a mix of comfortable rooms and bungalows, and has recently done some

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$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773 982888 / 3823 7645 (Sales office) www.laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, La Veranda has beautifully-designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all-natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

The Sailing Club

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$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla-resort.com Open since Nov. 2008, this 37-bungalow resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first-class spa treatment and a mediterranean-themed restaurant.

Chen La Resort and Spa

Cat Cat Guesthouse

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Sapa Rooms

$$ 18 Phang Xi Pan, Sapa. Tel: 020 6505 228 www.saparooms.com Located in the heart of Sapa town this simple but comfortable boutique hotel occupies an unprecedented corner location overlooking the terraced valleys of Sapa and not far from the energy of the local market. Rooms are decorated with antique hardwood furniture and contemporary artwork from local artists with touches of ethnic minority culture.

$$$ Tel: 062 743 237, www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach, with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and dining options. CREDIT CARDCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING

Huyen Tran Guest House

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the surroundings of the Muong Hoa Valley.

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Princess d’Annam Resort & Spa

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Phan Thiet / Mui Ne

57D Thanh Tam, Lang Son. Tel: 025 371 0479 Although it may be a bit hard to communicate with the staff if you’re Vietnamese isn’t up to snuff, they are eager to help. The rooms are exceptionally nice for the area.

Sao Mai Hotel

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$ 53 Duong 26 – 8, Son La, Tel: 022 385 8798 Sunrise makes for a decent stay for those travelling between Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu. In relation to the other hotels on the road, the rooms are very clean and the staff helpful. A night here will run around VND400,000.

Hoang Son Hai

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Sunrise Hotel

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refurbishment. Offers quad-biking, kitesurfing, paragliding and, of course, sailing.

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$$ 25 Pho 1, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 381 0043 This Soviet-era hotel has a unique style that makes it one of the most visited. So, despite its size, it may be a good idea to book in advance. There’s a charge for the swimming pool, even if you’re staying there. But, hey, there’s a pool. The rooms are better than average and have satellite TV.

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. Onsite seafood restaurant and bar.

Bang Giang Hotel

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Don’s Restaurant 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2828 Have two Vietnamese bicycles for rent and well as a tandem. Great lake-side location. Pricey.

Mr. Trung No. 10, Ngo 175 Hong Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 0903 232888 A large number of old mountain bikes for rent. Located close to Long Bien Bridge. Good repair service.

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$$ Cat Cat Road. Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces. CREDIT CARD

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$ Km 6 Sapa, Ban Ho Road Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: 020 3872 130 www.hmongmountainretreat.com A large stilt house, five clay-clad bungalows and one 70-year-old Hmong House is what waits for you amid the rolling hills of Lao Cai, 6km outside of Sapa. The eco-resort’s team are all local and will help you enjoy

Quan's Motorbike & Bicycle Rentals 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941 Well-maintained bicycles and motorbikes for rent. Located in the Old Quarter close to Hoan Kiem Lake.

The Hanoi Bicycle Collective 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 8246 Well-maintained selection of bicycles for hire at the best prices in town, plus guided tours and all services you might need went to rent a bicycle. Rental available by day, week or month.

rooms ranging in price from VND400,000 to VND600,000 a night. Because of its height, the top rooms have nice views of the town and surroundings. There is a restaurant and bar with billiards, and internet in the lobby.

Hang Khong Hotel

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$ Khu I Thi, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4282 Just your basic hotel, but if what you want is a bed and satellite television, this is your place. Can’t beat the price at around VND200,000. Beware, though, prices are subject to change. CREDIT CARD

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$$ Thi Tran, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4321 Probably the prime place to stay in Tam Dao, the Mela has a swimming pool that might come in handy if you’re in the mountains to escape the heat of Hanoi summer. Rooms are comfortable and clean, with two double beds and balcony. The staff can assist if you want to explore the natural surroundings. Prices between VND800,000 and VND1.6 million. CREDIT CARD CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD CARD

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LISTINGS

Handspan Travel

$ Khu 1 Thi, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4208 Another one of the newer hotels in Tam Dao, Hang Khong caters mainly to Vietnamese tourists. But the price is right, hovering around VND500,000. Many of the rooms have balconies, but all have comfortable beds and hot showers. CREDIT CARD

Out & About

parks, waterfalls and spectacular scenery are all part of the mix, with part of the proceeds going to a number of responsible tourism initiatives.

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travel services Asian Travel Mate

7 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 0615; 21 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 3449; Crowne Plaza, 36 Le Duc Tho, Tu Liem Tel: 6265 4558 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, and reservations throughout Indochina. Have daily departure tours available in Saigon, Hue and Hanoi.

Buffalo Tours Agency (BTA)

94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi Tel: (84-4) 3 828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the time-consuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

bar & nightclubs 085 cafes 087 restaurants — french 088 restaurants — indian 088 restaurants — international 089 restaurants — italian 090 restaurants — japanese & korean 091

HG Travel

47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

Indochina Land

61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

Intrepid Travel Vietnam

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam's people, cuisine, history and culture.

Syrena Cruises

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

17 Cowboys+ AC AC

26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 2150 9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 5555 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

Tel: 01282 273717 www.sapasisters.webs.com The best trekking guides in Sapa showing you the key spots with the guarantee of an unforgettable experience. Sapa Sisters aims to empower young H’Mong women and give them fair pay for their skilled services. Read their reviews on Trip Advisor..

Vietnam in Focus

info@vietnaminfocus.com vietnaminfocus.com A photography tour company based in Hanoi, organising workshops and tours in the capital, as well as photographic adventures across northern Vietnam. Tour leader Colm Pierce's pictures have featured in numerous publications worldwide, such as The Guardian (UK), Le Figaro (France) and LA Times (US). Check out the website forinfo on upcoming workshops and photography tours. AC

Freewheelin Tours

2nd floor, 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2743 www.freewheelin-tours.com Responsible travel tourism company offering intimate, bespoke tours that give customers a more “authentic” taste of Vietnam. Motorbike journeys, homestays, visits to ethnic minority villages, national AC

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MUSIC HALL/LONG BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 6822 www.seventeencowboys.com 5pm to 12am Cowgirls, lasers, belly dancing and Filipino bands who never shy away from a good Guns N' Roses cover. Drinks are a little pricey, but part of the money is going to the show. Expect a lively atmosphere and the band will take requests, but 1980s rock tunes are favoured.

88 Lounge

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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 032829 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

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ICONS 101

LOUNGE BAR 61A Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Located on the upstairs portion of Mix III lounge and café, Blue Note features dimly lit, blue lighting and a balcony area that overlooks the streets of the Old Quarter. The interior is decorated with elegant red, velvet chairs and photographs of vintage jazz artists along the walls—giving the place a vintage, musical feel to accompany your conversations. The bar is a promising small venue, equipped with a small stage and piano. ACAC

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RETRO CAFÉ BAR 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 9134 haimtc@gmail.com 8am to midnight This bar is every bit as quirky as the Czech moped it’s named after. Inside every surface is festooned with a medley of objects ranging from gramaphones to retro TVs. The rooftop terrace is an awesome place for a sundowner or a morning coffee. Eclectic and like nothing else in Hanoi.

columns sounds of the city 092

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

++ AC AC

LOUNGE / WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu Tel: 3718 8029 5pm to late Besides having the best lighting in the city, 88 Lounge's speciality is wine, which can be enjoyed while seated in comfort and elegance from any of the four storeys alongside West Lake. With its cool luxury and classy wines, this spot is sure to soon be a regular one among the city's cool and classy.

Bar Betta

Restaurants — SINGAPOREAN 092 restaurants — sE asian 092 restaurants — vietnamese 093 restobars 094

Café Blue Note

Bars & Nightclubs

The Sapa Sisters

Exotissimo

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

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Chime Bar

Level 1, Sheraton Hanoi Hotel K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000 restaurant.hanoi@sheraton.com sheraton.com/hanoi Chime bar is the perfect spot for a refreshing glass of wine and a bite to eat. Offering a wide selection of tapas dishes in a lounge atmosphere, this is a great space to unwind, while listening to some soothing jazz to wash your blues away.

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POOL HALL / LIVE MUSIC / CLUB 55 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 1788 8am to midnight A potential gem in the heart of the Old Quarter. While it’s themed to the Easy Rider vibe out front, this huge two-storey venue is a jack of all trades – it has a bar, live music stage, pool tables, hookahs, a VIP room and a night club with a decent sound set up. Ideal for private functions and party promoters. Club stays open till late.

FatCat Bar AC

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LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

Q Pub+

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BOTTLE BASED DANCE CLUB 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0915 381180. qbuphanoi@gmail.com A glitzy, spacious basement club tucked away in the corner where Luong Ngoc Quyen meets Hang Giay. It’s a laser, mirrors and disco ball affair with high tables, hostesses, bottles of whiskey and a DJ — usually playing a mixture of trance and house. Runs a number of spirits offers on different days of the week. Ask for details.

Red River Tea Room ACAC

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LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho Tay, Tay Ho Monday to Friday, 2pm to 11.30pm. Weekends open from 11am Located on the lakeside road just below Xuan Dieu and close to the entrance to The Sheraton, this quiet, casual pub offers up a variety of beer, wine and mixed drinks, juice, tea, Nespresso coffee and espresso and milkshakes, all with a nice view of West Lake. Non-smoking indoors, Red River Tea Room is a welcome addition to the area.

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European brew hall 10 Nguyen Bieu, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 2288 Modeled after a brewery, bar and bowling alley in the Czech Republic, Pilsner Urquell has an old Europe feel — particularly in the private rooms lined with glass beer mugs, thick cuts of dark wood furniture and semi-circular booths. With the UNmeeting-of-a-menu, customers can choose from goose dishes, noodles, fried apples, an assortment of cheeses and several other options. Perfect location for big gatherings.

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GAMING LOUNGE 104 Bach Dang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0621 0212 huongnmd@gmail.com 9am to midnight If you’re looking for a more active night out, this gaming lounge has it all. White leather sofas, and plasma screens hooked up to Xbox 360 Kinect, Playstation 3 Move etc and more. Challenge your friends to games while enjoying a western-style food menu and a decent selection of beverages. When you get a little too competitive, you can cool down in the lounge area and gear up for your next big win.

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a kebab as you catch up with all of the city's regular night owls. The terrace out back has great views of Long Bien Bridge at night.

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LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem 10am to late In the same building as the old Bucket Bar, Hair of the Dog, the first floor offers a large drinking space, graphic artwork, sidewalk seating and a dance floor. Up the spiral staircase, there’s the late-night

86 | Word April 2013

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ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Owned by the people behind Face Club, the low, LED-lit venue has the feel of a VIP room situated in a larger club, only it's not. While techno and trance are the genre's of choice spun in the establishment by live DJs, patrons treat the space more like a lounge than a dancehall and typically order bottle service and cocktails. One of the Ta Hien mainstays.

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DANCEHALL/BAR 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem 5pm to late Previously known as Dracula Bar, this watering hole tucked upstairs behind a hotel is around the corner from Ta Hien. A double-sided bar splits up a pool table space, lounge area and dance floor. The smoke machine can be a bit much, but the music is a decent mix of pop and house. Never crowded and open late, free shots are given out every hour on the hour.

Funky Buddha

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DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 5333 6087 www.linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix. AC

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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 9B Bao Khanh, Kiem Tel: 0914 339439 lpcafe@yahoo.com.vn 9am to late ++ This quirky bar and living room gets busiHalf Man Half Noodle + + LATE DIVE BAR est in the later hours. Down in the bar, 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem plasma screens and an iPod station mix Tel: 3926 1943 with a dance floor and comically named 3pm to late cocktails. Upstairs, there’s a cushioned Often a bit dark and somewhat gloomy, living room — a pleasant space with “The Noodle” is still a hit with long term a low ceiling and shisha. Throw in a residents. With its all-hour eating options — dartboard, “sell and swap” book shelves, ranging from cheese toasties and pizzas to Jenga and some tasty toasted sandgrilled cod and bun cha — and its popular wiches, and it can be hours of fun. The happy hour, this Old Quarter old-timer is still dried buffalo “nosh” from Tay Bac in the up there with the options. Between 11pm north is a must. and 12.30am, local beers go for VND15,000 and mixers go for VND30,000. Friendly staff ++ MadAke + + and talkative patrons included. THAI RESTAURANT / EVENTS VENUE 81 Xuan Dieu ++ Hanoi Rock City + Tel: 0162 912 7013 LIVE MUSIC VENUE 11am — late 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho With an outside garden right off the water, Tel: 01887 487 426 a dark and deep music room, an airy www.hanoirockcity.com bar with white brick walls, and currently 5pm to midnight serving some of the city's best Thai food, With a downstairs, English-style pub Madeke enters the scene with full force. garden area and an upstairs space With regular DJ and live music acts on the dedicated to live music and live weekends, as well as a monthly Low-Keyproduction, Hanoi Rock City is the only Karaoke and special guest chefs serving a venue in the capital of its kind. Has range of specialties, swinging by anytime weekly live events featuring bands is a strong bet for something good. both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email ++ Mao’s Red Lounge jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for LOUNGE AND BAR more information or check out their 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem page on Facebook. Tel: 3926 3104 5am to 2am ++ + House of Son Tinh One of the few staple bars in the city that Liquor Lounge hosts an equal number of ex-pats, locals 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho and tourists. With cheap drinks, funky, Tel: 3718 6377 slightly ethnic decor and one of the most www.sontinh.com amiable owners in town, Mao's is always 8am to 11.30pm a great place to start off or finish the As part of the Highway 4 group, which night. Sing-a-longs and dancing welcome now has its offices in the establishment’s at one of the most popular drinking spots upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant on Ta Hien. outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine ++ + Mint Bar liquors and newly created cocktail class. HOTEL BAR Does regular events on the first floor and Lobby Level, Pullman Hanoi, 40 Cat Linh, also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants Dong Da Tel: 3733 0808 in the chain. www.pullmanhotels.com 7am to midnight + ++ Irish Wolfhound Situated in the heart of the lobby, Mint IRISH PUB Bar is perfect for a relaxing, convivial 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem experience any time of the day. A tapasTel: 2212 6821 inspired menu along with fresh fruit juice, www.irishwolfhoundpub.com local and imported beers are available at 8am to 2am all times while wines by the glass or by The open-air watering hole with seatthe bottle are available from the Vinoteca ing on the pavement is a great spot to by Pullman. Relax with a coffee or tea enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at from the property’s extensive selection. anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional + + Model Club live Irish music and billiards on the third CATWALK BAR floor. Has a decent food menu and even 45 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem better pizzas. 8pm to late Lasers, pulsating trance, bottle service and + + La Fée Verte+ nightly model shows. This venue is largely FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY filled with flashy Vietnamese youngsters Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem or older business types flashing their Tel: 6282 5555 wads. Bottle service is a must, which is lafeeverte@hoteldelopera.com a little pricey, so if you ain't got enough 7am to 2am money then you probably won't be stickMeaning the green fairy — an allusion ing around to see the honeys. to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe which was drunk extensively in colonial + + Phuc Tan Vietnam — understated lighting, a laidELECTRO GRUNGE CLUB back lounge atmosphere, a good music selection and ultra-contemporary interior 51 / 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem 6pm to late design make up the mix at this downHanoi's favourite after hours dancehall/ stairs bar in Hotel de l’Opera. Expect a trance den. Throw shapes on either of good selection of creative cocktails and the two floors that have regular DJs while an extensive wine list. Opens late with dancing to rapacious electronic beats or a DJ taking to the decks on Thursdays, enjoy the Red River's breeze and snack on Fridays and Saturdays. AC

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bar and shisha lounge complete with beanbags. Drawing in a mix of expats, backpackers and locals, when the bars across the street shut down, the mayhem continues in ‘The Dog’.

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DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem 93 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 4926 2177 11am — late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

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Roots+

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REGGAE CHILLOUT BAR 2 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem www.rootsbar-hanoi.blogspot.com 5pm to late With a reggae theme, the French-run Roots stays open late playing African and Caribbean music with some salsa thrown in for good measure. Laid back vibes. A good, late-night, Old Quarter option set on a first floor. The entrance is next to the Irish Wolfhound.

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HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2269 1107 Fronted by the affable Sean, and with Guinness, Jameson’s and a surprising amount of draught beer flowing from the taps, since its inauguration the tiny Spy Bar has managed to create a dedicated following despite its tiny size. With pictures of spies dotting the wall (both Vietnamese and international) and food delivery available from three restaurants, this is a great place to chill and shoot some well-deserved, Chuong Duong Bridge breeze.

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ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday While there are a few ‘rooftop bars’ in the capital, few hold a candle to the view on offer at the Summit Lounge. With a chilled but lively ambience, top shelf cocktails, and a Southeast Asian fusion bar menu, the Summit Lounge is a great place to pitch yourself above the madness and peer down at the chaos below in peace. Sunsets are particularly special.

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Tracy’s Pub and Grill

Tunnel Bar+

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12 Truong Han Sieu, Ba Trieu Leftfield, Indochine, contemporary and artsy, all thrown into one, the latest incarnation of Tadioto rolls together café, bar and gallery. Always with an attractive ambience and friendly service, a garden out back adds a nice touch to the space inside.

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Meet-up spot 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6917 www.taytap.com 4pm to late Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

Tet Bar

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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 3050 6pm to 5am This small and personal one-and-a-half floor bar starts to get busy at around 11pm and is popular with expats of all nationalities, despite having a French flavour. Run by the indomitable Thanh and once called Le Maquis, the Tet Bar these days has a slightly cluttered feel to it, but nonetheless continues to pull in the punters. Open very, very late. AC

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LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 1874 8am to midnight A stone's throw from Ta Hien, this barcum-lounge-cum-restaurant has all of the atmosphere present in bars scattered throughout the Old Quarter without being a dive. Enjoy a mixed drink, tacos or a Vietnamese staple starter with the occasional live DJ breaking out classic funk, soul and hip hop in the comfortable furnishings or on the back patio.

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WINE AND CIGAR LOUNGE 2 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3477 9am to 1am The ambience at the relaxed wine bar near the Metropole screams red wine — the walls are painted a warm yellow, the exposed brick adds a touch of cool and the wine barrels-turned-tables are tasteful. Too bad it’s often awkwardly empty. Features fine wines, cigars and Vietnamese and international snacks.

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cafes Align 3D

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LAKE VIEW LOUNGE 73 Cau Go; 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0801 www.avaloncafelounge.com 7am to 11.30pm Popular for its views of Hoan Kiem Lake, this lounge and bar is always busy. With comfy seating and balconies, the lounge and sky garden offer a pleasant escape from city-centre chaos. The smoothies are creamy and renditions of popular street dishes are spot on. Elsewhere in the eclectic menu, pizzas and pastas cost around VND100,000 and steak in red wine sauce goes for VND179,000. Classic pop instrumentals play by day, and come night, the chilled vibe is tainted slightly with electro pop.

Café Lam

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TEEN SCENE CAFÉ 89A Ly Nam De, Ba Dinh Tel: 3223 3246 9am to 10pm This hangout spot is styled for locals in their teeny-bop years and early twenties. The décor is kitschy and cozy, there is even a piano, used occasionally in live music shows. They serve sweet drinks at a reasonable price along with lots of treats like brownies in a variety of newwave flavors.

Ciao Café

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RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf

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INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 4240 www.coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

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91 Nguyen Huu Huan Tel: 3824 5940 Always busy, the café has traditional

Cong Caphe

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LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 6686 0344 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communist-driven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on 'cafe street'. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go. And if you like more space and an outdoor terrace, hit Cong Caphe take two on Dien Bien Phu.

Espressamente Illy

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CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 6th floor, 38-40 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7984 7.30am to 11pm Take the dilapidated elevator to the 6th

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CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 6 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0444 www.highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm As with any chain that attempts selfreplication, there is a tried and tested formula. At Highlands it is comfortable seating, good Wi-Fi, unobtrusive music and a mid-range, generic atmosphere. It works, too. The Starbucks of Vietnam, a French-influenced, international and pan-Asian food menu sits alongside the teas, coffee and cakes. Has other locations at 49 Hai Ba Trung, The Opera House, The Syrena Centre, Pacific Place and more.

Joma

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COFFEE/BAKERY 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 33 88 54 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6071 www.joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little ++ + slice of “home” to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2010 and is looking to open in Ho Chi Minh City in 2011. Has a play area for kids up in the West Lake café and bakery.

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Kinh Do

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 0216 7am – 8pm A must-go-to place on a lazy day, Mr Chi’s long-standing patisserie is somewhat famous for its honest, home-cooked food, no frills-but-relaxing environment and sour yoghurt fit for celebrities — Catherine Deneuve ate here daily during her time shooting Indochine. Hot fresh milk, exclusive coffee, awesome croque madames and local dishes, too. Replace WiFi with a book and aircon with ceiling fans; eat in, take away, the pastries are great and the price is always right.

La Place

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CONTEMPORARY / VIETNAMESE 6 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 5859 7.30am to 10pm This tall, narrow lounge café with rooftop seating is a quintessential Hanoi spot. The decoration is bright and casual and the all-day menu has food from both the east and the west. Draw with crayons on brown paper covering the tables as you while away the hours over coffee or cocktails, and take in the view of St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Has some interesting food options including spinach fried rice along with old standbys like tuna salad sandwiches and coconut chicken curry. No MSG is used here.

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ITALIAN COFFEE 75 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 2065 8am to 11pm International standard, Italian-style espresso drinks are the name of the game at this undeniably chic chain coffee shop. Boasting a wide range of drinks, including spirit coffees with tequila, and a small selection of pastries and panini sandwiches, the café’s clientele is a mix of tourists and Vietnamese who are tired of ca phe nau da. It is connected to a tour agency and in the central hub of the Old Quarter.

Hapro Café

floor and emerge onto a balcony with one of the best views of Hoan Kiem. The big draw to this café is the vantage point — the drinks are a secondary concern, though there is about every coffee and juice concoction known to mankind on the menu and plenty of yoghurt and smoothie options too. Graze on French fries, sandwiches, salads and typical Vietnamese rice plates. Perfect for watching the city wake up or catching a sunset.

Highlands Coffee

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POPULAR VIETNAMESE 1 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 10A Khuc Hao, Ba Dinh 7am to 11pm Popular with young Vietnamese, the Align cafes are always busy. The younger venue on Khuc Hao is hidden down a bamboo alley and has three outdoor seating areas, one of which makes you feel like you’re sat under a waterfall. The other two are on the roof, and from the middle of this embassy-type street, the sound of motorbikes is replaced with tweeting birds. 3D pictures on the walls of each floor take you back to the old city, before KFC and Parkson. Even to times before the French.

Avalon Café

in old quarter. Lining the walls, old world drawings line the walls floor to ceiling. They serve a variety of teas and coffee, as well as many jars of pickled looking vegetables and less identifiable things. Grab a seat on the low wooden tables and take advantage of their strong Wi-fi.

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INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 11B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0936 063303 www.tunnel-bar-hanoi.com 4pm to late Slim but stylish two-storey bar located just at the bend on Bao Khanh. The friendly staff can make a range of well-made and colourful cocktails. Frequent DJ nights and parties are commonplace at this watering hole that caters to both foreign and Vietnamese. Does an excellent happy hour with specials on Ricard. AC

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SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 6675 9838 www.tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

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Love Chocolate Cafe

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QUIRKY CAFE 26 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3243 2120 www.lovechocolatecafe.com 10am to 10pm, Closed Sundays Bathed in pink and decorated to mimic a French salon, Love Chocolate Cafe carries decadent chocolate desserts like mocha lava cake, espresso pepper brownies and

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tons of cookies. It doesn’t end there, hot chocolates, shakes and even coffee blends like minty java are on the menu. The sign out front reads, “All you chocoholics, We are open!”. A rare but terrific find in Hanoi.

Moca Cafe

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CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 6334 moca@netnam.vn 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don't let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down French-styled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

Marilyn Cafe

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ROOFTOP CAFE 4 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1949 www.marilyncoffee.com Considering the amount of flat rooftops in this city, it’s a crime that most go under utilized. However, the top floor of Chim Yen boutique and Marilyn Cafe is home to one of the more pleasant spaces in the Old Quarter. With a great, stone’s-throwview of St Joseph’s cathedral, food and beverages, this spot can turn a temperate afternoon into something a bit more special.

Oriberry Xuan Dieu

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CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger café-cum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

Saint Honore

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CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning

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The Hanoi Bicycle Collective +++ (THBC)

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Stop Café

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Restaurants — indian MID-RANGE

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INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 2959 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3993 1399 info@foodshop45.com 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

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10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4509 labadiane.hanoi@yahoo.fr 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night. A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you

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CASUAL FRENCH FUSION 59A Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3941 1959 A well-appointed lounge bar downstairs and a more typical bistro on the first floor, this Vietnamese-run French eatery is known for is extensive wine list and excellent, but well-priced fusion lunches. The work of French-trained sommelier Hai Ha, Le Paul Conti has so far proved quite a hit. A great addition to the capital.

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Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm Classic French Indochine décor and subtle lighting give the Sofitel Metropole Legend’s signature restaurant an elegance rarely found in Vietnam’s capital. The a la carte menu pits classic French cuisine against contemporary Vietnamese cooking with dishes like Nha Trang lobster with saffron pot au feu, the pan fried veal tenderloin on a lemongrass skewer and the calisson parfait marinated with orange, pomelo and lemon balm. Has an extensive wine list.

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La Badiane

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48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina+++ styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

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Picomall, 229 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: 6276 1004 www.coffeebean.com 8.30am to 9.30pm Known for the quality of its coffee and tea, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf has landed in Hanoi — in the form of an air-con, western-style drinking space in Hanoi’s newest shopping mall. The five first coffee shops in Vietnam started in Ho Chi Minh City, and this the first one in the capital. Hanoians are finally able to taste the beverages already quenching the thirst in 20 countries across the planet. New stores to open on West Lake soon. AC AC AC

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26 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 2539 8am – 10am This new café, which fills a coffee-shop-

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FRENCH BISTRO 10 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1327 www.cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

SANDWICH SHOP/CAFÉ 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au Trieu) 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3928 7715 www.thecartfood.com 7:30am – 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets, with a new outlet on Nghi Tam, which is more like the big-windowed coffee shops you expect to see in Europe. The Cart serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

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PAVEMENT / VIETNAMESE 27 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Walk by this old café and you’ll see why it’s favoured by the locals. Grab a stool on the sidewalk to enjoy the lemon-y tea and sunflower seeds, or a strong drip coffee and people watching.

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La Verticale

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 6317 www.verticale-hanoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese++ + French fusion cuisine.

Restaurants — French

Thai Café

THE DOLL HOUSE

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6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

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FRENCH DELI 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 9433 8am to 11pm Situated on Hanoi’s not-so-serene ‘Pub Street’, Stop sponges up the surrounding atmosphere, which gives the French delicatessen a relaxed vibe that avoids pretension. The spot specializes in serving a mixture of western, French and Vietnamese fare, along with coffee, shakes and juice. The venue is more affordable then it’s sister location upstairs, Café de Arts, and is prime real estate to nibble on some quiche and quaff a juice on a sunny day.

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44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 8246 www.thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment. Eclectic? Not a chance!

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as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced three-course lunch menu.

shaped gap in the market for this area, has the feel of half green house, half designconscious doll house, and is a welcome alternative for when your favourite hang out begins to get samey. Focusing on fresh ingredients to suit the fresh design, the Doll House also has a garden terrace, and is open for party bookings and private events. Enter through the shop out front.

ITALIAN CAFE 36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1476 www.segafredo.com.vn 7am to 11pm Names of some of the world's greatest cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of the best espresso-based coffee in town. Red and white decor, lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an open plan space make up the mix. Besides the caffeine-based drinks, also does granita, teas, shakes and modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.

THE CART

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MUSIC CAFE 25 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 061982 panaceacafe@yahoo.com 8am to late Slightly rough around the edges and with an artsy vibe, this is nonetheless a place that welcomes all comers. There’s live music four nights a week (Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat), but it’s not uncommon to find someone strumming away at the piano here at any time of the day. Friendly staff, good coffee, juices and cold beers.

Paris Deli

Segafredo

FAIR TRADE CAFE & TEA HOUSE 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 8276 www.oriberry.com Provides fair opportunities for local, indigenous and ethnic farmers in remote rural areas of Vietnam with fairly produced coffee and tea direct from farm to cup. Along with a great view of West Lake and of course tea and coffee, Oriberry also offers meal options such as salads, foccacias, quiches, muffins and croissants as well as a range of indigenous Artisan handicrafts.

Panacea Cafe

when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

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78 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5995 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm India Palace is the fourth member of owner Ravi Kumar’s family of restaurants which includes Tandoor. The menu takes the cuisine of North India and combines it with a South Indian-inspired menu, to create a pan-Indian menu appealing to all. Occupying a large four-storey villa

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with unobstructed views of West Lake at the front, the décor here is traditional yet contemporary Indian. The fourth floor with sweeping views over West Lake is given up to Dakshin, a vegetarian restaurant selling mainly South Indian fare.

Khazanna AC

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 11 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5657 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Recently relocated, Khazaana is one of the two oldest Indian restaurants in Hanoi. The menu encompasses the entire sub-continent, complete with heavier chicken korma and northern curry dishes alongside lighter southern dosas and uttappams. The venue is homey albeit harsh, but with quintessential masala tea, naan and raita to round out the meal, the focus here is on the food and filling your belly… or overfilling, as is more likely the case. All cuisine here is halal.

Namaste Hanoi

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47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2400 www.namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery

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The Kebab House

STREETSIDE FOOD STOP AND RESTAURANT 12 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6659 8598 Tasty Turkish Vietnamese dining with Nha Tho’s chiming bells accompanying your meal. Its outdoor blackboard menu advertises Kebab possibilities such as lamb, chicken, pork, and even ostrich. Choose from eating in the street or take a few steps inside, through the bustling kitchen, and into the comfortable upstairs lounge seating area. Scrumptious and affordable food, with Kebab’s starting at VND 30,000.

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CANTONESE/DIM SUM 317 Kim Ma, Dong Da Tel: 3846 1327 9am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm One of the most underrated Chinese restaurants in the city, the place itself is not much to look at, but they serve above average dim sum. A variety of other Cantonese style dishes including noodle soup and rice dishes are on offer here, all at very affordable prices.

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CUPCAKE SERVICE Tel: 01219 499523 mia@westlakecupcake.net The cupcake obsession has caught on. A new baking project by Westlake’s infamous Anna and Mia brings custom cupcakes cooked to order to your front door. Offering a variety of cupcakes and butter cream frostings, check out their speciality flavours like New York cheesecake, brown eyed girl and creative monthly specials. Are you drooling yet? Although a delivery only outlet, the cupcakes are available for purchase at Daluva and Oasis.

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24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 5359 tandoor@hn.vnn.vn 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indian-food enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

Restaurants – International

BUDGET Café 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm Service at this “slow food café” is seriously snail paced, but that is part of the charm of this modest eatery with only a few tables and small stools. Popular as a weekend hangover mainstay for the greasy eggs with cheese, the café is best known for its not-quite Mexican food. But hey, when there’s guacamole, salsa fresca, beans and cheese, what can go wrong? Be sure to try the fresh juices, like the super-booster with beetroot, and the coffee with whipped egg.

FRY (Fresh. Real. Yummy)

Westlake Cupcake

OLD TOWN CHIP JOINT 24 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem A quality food stop with a clean, smart,

MID-RANGE Al Fresco’s

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1155 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5322 www.alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm With a real ‘diner’ kind of feel, Al Fresco’s serves up munchies-busting Aussie inspired food from a number of locations across the city including their original restaurant at 23L Hai Ba Trung. Topping the menu are the jumbo ribs at VND395,000, with generous helpings of pizzas, pastas, burgers, Tex-Mex, soups and salads going for less. The set business lunch is three courses for VND155,000. See the website for delivery numbers and don’t forget to ask for delivery deals. Have an efficient delivery service, but make sure you ask for knives and forks.

Chez Xuan AC

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Open air eating 41, Ngo 76, An Duong, Tay Ho Tel: 0915 085305 Though it’s a bit far from the centre, the expansive wooded area, chilled out atmosphere and good food makes it worth a visit. The menu is well equipped to satisfy cravings for fish and hearty meat dishes. If you’re in a DIY mood, you can Grill Yourself a plate of meat and seafood or choose from the gourmet selection of strip loin, ostrich or salmon to throw on the tabletop grills. Regularly holds live music events.

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Le Marrakech

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE Ngo 40, Nha 7A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Despite a two-storey indoor dining space, + Kitchen is all about its leafy, terracottatiled terrace out front, a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothiestyle drinks. Has amiable know-your-name staff and a good delivery service.

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Koto on Van Mieu

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RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 0337 www.koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

La Restaurant AC

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La Salsa

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IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 9052 lasalsa@fpt.vn 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanishthemed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and fantastic first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Western staff speak English and French.

Little Hanoi

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21 – 23 Hang Gai Street, Hoan Kiem Dist Tel: 3828 5333 littlehanoi@orientalstars.com.vn 7:30am — 11:00pm A tourist hotspot and one for locals, too, Little Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake has been going sturdy since 1994 — mainly for its central location, range of sandwiches, pastas and Vietnamese cuisine. Baguettes go from VND95,000 and mango salads VND99,000, not to mention the coffee at around VND50,000, wines and fresh fruit juices. With Indochina-inspired art on the walls and jazz in the background, Little Hanoi is a little escape from the chaos of the central lake. ++ ACAC

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3098 tmbhanoi@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Located in the grounds of the Fine Arts Museum, this classy restaurant and wine bar mixes attractive décor with western cuisine, all cooked up by a New Zealand-trained Vietnamese chef. Famed for its salads, good cuts of steak, lamb shank and its various pasta fare, the menu here also incorporates a number of well-known Vietnamese dishes.

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88 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3710 0389 10am to 11pm. Closed Monday Family-run Moroccan restaurant in a charming terrace-fronted house close to the start of Xuan Dieu. Focus of cuisine is on authentic couscous, tagines and kebab dishes made with a mixture of local and imported ingredients, all cooked up by a Moroccan chef. Uses Halal meat.

Provecho

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 4448 www.hoasuaschool.com Open from 7am to 10pm This restaurant, which schools and employs disadvantaged youths, has been popular for 11 years — as a grand villa and courtyard setting tucked away in the corner of Ha Hoi. Popular with business types, tourists and expats alike, who enjoy good food while supporting a good cause, mains like cha ca and steaks go for VND99,000 and VND289,000 respectively, and there are six set menus available which take in Vietnamese, French and Italian cuisine. AC

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Hoa Sua Training Restaurant – Song Thu

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CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT First Floor, 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel : 3926 0580 Located in the upstairs portion of its sister restaurant, Tamarind, Spice is an impressive extension to the Indian food choices in the city, providing quality non-vegetarian dishes and a comfortable seating area. Includes lounge seating and a colourful dining area with thoughtful artwork and photographs along its walls. Spice is a tropical, artistic, cultural, and attractive addition to the Old Quarter’s dining options. Specializes in seafood and classic Indian dishes.

Tandoor

modern feel in the heart of Old Quarter that specializes in serving their signature Belgian fries to accompany their tasty, slider-sized burgers. Choose from an array of preparations ranging from beerbattered to garlic-fried with a variety of 12 different dipping sauces. If you’re craving a savoury lunch place, stop by FRY to get your fix.

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TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 223966 provechohanoi@gmail.com The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, self-styled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

Spoon

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ASIAN FUSION 15-17 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 5636 6.30am to 10pm An extension of Soul furniture and lifestyle store, the restaurant and lounge bar at Spoon serves up a fusion menu in a setting that screams homeliness and style. Asian dishes, seafood and steaks are among the go-to menu choices. Attentive and competent staff top it all off in this chic restolounge.

Tamarind ACAC

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CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0580 tamarind_cafe@yahoo.com 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat, Tamarind features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Breakfast is served all day and with Asian favourites, like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle

April 2013 Word | 89

Luala Cafe

salad, along with some falafel and western influences, vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

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French flair 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3726 4782 www.thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

The House

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FUSION FARE / WINE 10 Truong Han Sieu. Tel: 6270 2611 hoangcuongfb@gmail.com The House, once Annie’s Corner, is one of the latest restaurants to occupy an old French building in the quiet streets nestled between Ba Trieu and Quang Trung. It serves Vietnamese food but with international twists. The affordable and eclectic menu ranges from local tenderloin steak to lemongrass tuna salads with a decent wine list and an ideal bring-yourown VND100,000 corkage fee per bottle of wine.

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WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 9916 www.greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm Sophisticated restaurant set inside an Old Quarter boutique hotel. Formerly a school, and now also on Cat Ba Island, Green Mango serves Vietnamese and western food, ranging from sandwiches and pasta to lamb chops and VND700,000 Angus rib-eyes. Buy-one-get-one-free deals on cocktails and beers every day from 4pm to 6pm and Lavazza coffee at all hours. With comfy seats and a soft setting, the function room at the back often hosts charity events and semi-formal get-togethers.

Jaspa’s

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INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 8325 www.alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa's is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

Le Petite Bruxelles

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BELGIAN / EUROPEAN 1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1769 10 Alley 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 5853 www.le-petit-bruxelles.com 10am to 10pm An airy and spacious long-running Belgian-themed eatery with a location by the cathedral and a second out in West Lake. Although this is not the place to wash down your Chimay, Leffe or Duval with moules frites on a daily basis — the mussels are only available seasonally — a number of other traditional Belgian dishes fill the menu including carbonade, jambonneau and boulettes sauce tomate as well as the more Swiss-sounding beef and cheese fondue. Hearty fare in a nice environment.

90 | Word April 2013

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MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 cafelautrec@hoteldelopera.com 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

Don’s Tay Ho AC

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El Gaucho Steakhouse

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SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 0121, www.halia.com.sg Monday – Saturday 11am to 11pm Closed on Sundays A secluded courtyard in the heart of Pacific Place plays host to one of the capital’s best restaurants. A two-floored venue split into a downstairs tapas and bar area,with a refined dining space located on the level above, the menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer, with dishes such as pan-braised Alaskan cod with sea winkle crust and the braised pork belly in shoyu and sweet mirin making an appearance. Has an extensive wine list.

Hemispheres steak & seafood grill

Sheraton Hotel, K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 9000 restaurant.hanoi@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our “Wines of the World” selection. ACAC AC

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23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 8388 www.alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

La Cheminée

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PAN-FRENCH / INTERNATIONAL 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a fine-dining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

Ming Palace

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Nineteen 11

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4801 www.nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Named after the completion date of the Opera House under which it is located, walk inside and a labyrinthine-like, barebrick wall hallway leads you through to the main dining area. With dark browns, deep yellow tablecloths and a refined ambience aided by background classical music, the menu takes in western, pan-Asian and seafood fare and even has its own section dedicated entirely to foie gras. Has a 100-strong old and new + + +world wine list that includes Bordeaux vintages and also boasts a cheaper, outdoor garden space next to Highlands Coffee. LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC

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Press Club AC AC

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CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 0888 www.hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular first-Friday-ofthe-month party.

Restaurants — Italian

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May Man Chinese Cuisine

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PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

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BUFFET & A LA CARTE First Floor, Pullman Hanoi, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3733 0808 www.pullmanhotels.com 6am to 10pm Serving cuisine inspired by local culinary tradition, La Cheminee also includes international classics revisited with an eye on contemporary trends. Buffet service, a la carte menu, dishes to share with family or friends; everything here is created with the concepts of freedom, flexibility and ++ +conviviality.

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99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6991 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This welcomed eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with two venues in Saigon — one near the Opera House and the other in Saigon South — the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and

Millenium

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CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 3719 www.donviet.vn Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late A bakery, bistro, restaurant, wine retailer, oyster bar and top floor lounge bar all in one, this lake-facing venue is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negra ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

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Halia Hanoi

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6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3845 5224 www.aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

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CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2886 www.luala.vn 8 am to 10 pm If you can't afford the labels at Luala you can still enjoy the cuisine in this small cafe run in conjunction with the high-end fashion concept store, Luala and The Press Club. Offering a large menu specialising in creative but chic cafe fare as well as the prerequisite quality coffee, the outdoor terrace seating offers great views of the downtown area.

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PAN-CHINESE 2nd Level, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place to get

MID-RANGE

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CASUAL ITALIAN DINING 172 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0680 9am to 10.30pm An Italian eatery in West Lake with a large selection of authentic, pan-Italian cuisine, Cielo is a place which goes back to basic, using homemade Bufala mozzarella on their pizzas. The word Cielo means sky,

goat’s cheese salad. Also serves up curry chicken sandwiches and meatball penne pasta.

which is reflected in the fresh airy dining room. And while their takeaway service is prompt, eating in ensures a much better experience. Prices are very reasonable.

Da Paolo

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CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 8585 1443 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

Luno d’Autunno

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CLASSIC ITALIAN 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3823 73338 lunadautunno@gmail.com 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian restaurant has been going for 10 years. It uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND60,000 to build-your-own-skiesthe-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space with over 35 covers and an outside courtyard, seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly photo exhibitions and opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

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PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6288 leo@mediterraneo-hanoi.com 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

Pane e Vino

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Pan-Italian 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 9080 www.panevino.com 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

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Floor 1, Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 5959 www.zpizza.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm Californian pizza chain in the now open in West Lake. — currently the only place to eat from this American pizza brand in Hanoi. The new pizzeria prides itself on its 100 percent certified organic wheat dough and different dishes found nowhere else, like the strawberry and

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar) There are only two truly top-end, contemporary Italians in Vietnam and Angelina claims pride of place in this elite group. This doesn't mean that prices here are off limits — take a similar eatery in Europe and here you are paying a third, which all makes a meal here a special affair. The carpaccios are to die for, the pastas are all home made, the pizzas are wood-fired and the steaks are chargrilled. Does a great three-course set lunch for VND520,000++.

Celebrate a beautiful new life!

Nick Ross Restaurants — Japanese & Korean

BONG-CHU JJIM-DAK

KOREAN CHICKEN B40 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Thanh Xuan Tel: 6680 1423 Visit www.bongchu.co.kr 11am – 10pm In typical Vietnamese fashion, Bong-Chu Jjim Dak restaurant only serves one dish it knows best: chicken. A light kimchi soup is served alongside the steamed bird mixed with cellophane noodles packed in a mildly peppery but sweet combination. It’s simple — ordering options include half chicken, whole chicken, chicken and a half, or all of the above. Select the answer that best fits your appetite and escape from the ubiquitous boiled chicken on streets.

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New Ala Carte and Set Menus Newly Renovated Oyster Bar Dine in luxury or cater to your location Reservations Recommended

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KOREAN 50A Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3201 2989 One of the longest running Koreans in town, this down-to-earth eatery just off Kim Ma specialises in the Korean nation’s version of sushi rolls. These can be ordered either plain or deep-fried. Other Korean fare includes bibimbab and a range of barbecue dishes. The cuisine is brought to your low tables with floor seating and in typical Korean fashion, all meals are served with free side dishes (banchan) of kim chi, pickles and eggplant.

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JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday Sushi, soba, sake. Buy a big bottle of sake and the staff will put your name on it and keep it until next time. Dine at the downstairs bar or in one of the private rooms with sliding doors for an authentic Japanese experience. Although Ky Y specialises in rice-style working man’s fare, it’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but the Japanese omelets, tempura and saucy eggplant dishes are perennial crowd pleasers.

Izakaya Yancha

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JAPANESE BBQ 121 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8437 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Just a stone’s throw from Ky Y, this Osakabased chain does the same cuisine, but entirely differently. The small plates on the large menu are best shared among

16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-3719 or 0913 001 359 Email: donchef@donviet.vn www.don's-bistro.com Twitter: @DonsBistroHanoi Facebook: Don’s - A Chef’s Bistro Hanoi

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{ SOUNDS of the City }

was intrigued to hear that there was a cafe that devoted itself to Trinh Cong Son’s music in Hanoi. I was amazed when I learned that it was not the only one, that there are many Trinh Cong Son cafes, located in unlikely parts of the city. And what’s more, they’re really popular. First, to understand what a ‘Trinh Café’ is, you have to know a bit about the artist. His career was quite remarkable, and it would be impossible to narrow him down to an outline, or a mere caricature. He was a man of many talents, although best known for composing music, he was also a painter and a writer. His message was always one of reconciliation. In brief, he embodied the crossroads of politics in art at a time of the American War, when both were incredibly divisive. Trinh Cong Son’s songs are overwhelmingly melancholy and at times whimsical. Anyone would be able to tell this without understanding a word of the lyrics. According to his fans in these cafes, they are also extremely deep and poetically rich. He has been repeatedly called the ‘Bob Dylan of Vietnam’. Although it’s unclear where the nickname originated from, it must be more for his politics than for musical style. In any case his music became enormously popular. It may have been this very popularity that made authorities in northern Vietnam nervous. After the war he was sent to a labour camp and his music banned throughout the country. But neither his popularity nor the devotion of his fans diminished. Bootlegged recordings of Trinh Cong Son songs were made and traded throughout the country.

Different Times And today, even though it is no longer illegal to play or listen to the music, Trinh cafes somehow retain the underground feeling

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** Trinh Still Sings * *

Cong Son],” she said. It has obviously grown since then, and even though they only devote two days a week to live music, Tuesdays and Fridays, the customers continue to come and bring more friends. “Some guests ask us for a business card but we don’t have any. We just rely on word of mouth.”

A Shared Past

Brian Webb discovers Trinh cafes and finds that there are parts of Hanoi still revelling in this musical history that must have added to its mystique. On my first visit I had expected to see an old crowd, reminiscing about what they had been through. But no; instead what I saw was a place filled with young people, mostly of the artistic persuasion. Constantly shifting little groups of smartly-dressed students spilled out onto the courtyard, sitting at low tables, most with a ceramic bottle of ruou. The walls, covered with tasteful paintings of all sizes, suggested that the cafe might have been a temple or pagoda in a former life. The official musicians

consisted of just one guitar and a violin. I say ‘official’ because they were not the only ones who played. Every fifth person seemed to have a guitar, and spontaneous performances popped up in other corners of the room while the performers put down their instruments to mingle with everyone else. It seemed much more like a relaxed meeting of people who share a mutual love for something than a business. That is also the way Huyen, the owner of Cafe Cuoi Ngo, seems to run the place. “We started around ten years ago, just to have a place to gather and talk about [Trinh

For a westerner who had been convinced that the younger generation in Vietnam cared little for looking back — that they were generally more concerned with motorbikes, clothes and the practicalities of global integration than with remembrance of things past — this was a lesson. The Trinh cafes give a glimpse into just how powerful shared history can be. In a way the music communicated a kind of nationalism, but not the sort that makes you stand up during a national anthem. This type was more empathetic, even sharing and joyful. The sadness that runs throughout all of Trinh’s music brought about a mood of happy unity. Well, the ruou may have helped too. We were not allowed to leave until the musicians played a western song especially for us. The song was French, I think. Looking around at the still large crowd of Vietnamese who were gathered to listen to music, and who had been made to mourn the suffering from a war my country was responsible for, I couldn’t help but be a bit moved. All I could see were warm faces. The Trinh cafe featured is not the only one in the city. There are a number, many of which can be found online. Here are two to start you on your quest, visit one and you will likely hear of others: Cafe Cuoi Ngo, 4/78/68 Cau Giay, Cau Giay Cafe Trinh Ca, 108A D2/233 To Hieu, Cau Giay

a group and with bottles of beer or sake. The tofu in amber sauce will leave you licking the plate and the chicken with udon and vegetables is off-the-charts delicious. The tidbit barbeque sticks of okra or bacon are also great, but more as a snack than anything else.

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TRADITIONAL JAPANESE 34 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7565 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm This Japanese eatery might be easy to walk past without noticing, but venture inside and you will find a small but neat interior. The food ranges from traditional Japanese to dishes that lean towards fusion. Very reasonable prices, compared with other Japanese establishments .

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mid-range MALAY KOPITIAM 9 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Home-cooked style Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine with dishes such as nasi lemak, roti bakar and mee hoon tom yam cooked up using imported ingredients from both Malaysia and Singapore. Recently refurbished, My Place is designed like a typical Malay 'kopitiam'.

The Lion City

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SINGAPOREAN RESTAURANT 92 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3941 1208 www.lioncity.com.vn Probably Hanoi’s best Singaporean dining is located steps away from the Hanoi train station, so close that a clear view of the tracks can be seen through a window from your table. As part of the lavish Cosiana Hotel, excellent hospitality comes hand in hand with tasty cuisine. Choose from a variety of typical Lion City dishes and speciality drinks.

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SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE 63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2992 www.rasasingapura-hanoi.com 5pm to midnight By the shores of Truc Bach Lake is the newly opened Singapore Peranakan Restaurant with its authentic, Straits fusion fare emanating from Singapore, Malacca and Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature dish, all the fare here is home-cooked by the owner / partner who spent five years living and studying in Singapore. This is tasty, homecooked, well-priced fare in a pleasant but tranquil setting. late night dining until the early hours.

Restaurants — Southeast Asian

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MALAYSIAN / HALAL 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1859 www.nisa-restaurant.com 10am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm A two-storey fresh looking Malaysian restaurant with affable staff and authentic cuisine. Difficulty in obtaining ingredients means that these days the menu is limited, but a nasi campur buffet-style counter in the downstairs space and photos on the wall of other classic Malaysian fare allows customers to choose what to eat. Think nasi lemak, mee goreng, roti canai, beef rendang and more. It tastes good, too.

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BANH CUON 39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem 6am to 3pm Put the warm fish sauce in the small bowl with squeezed lime, chilli and fresh herbs and then dip. This is the Ha Nam version of banh cuon (rolled wet rice paper) with the gio lua (pork cake) substituted for barbecued pork and bacon. The street side, flaking paint wall location may be off putting for some, but the fare tastes great.

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PAN-THAI RESTAURANT & CAFE 9 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6353 8am to 10pm Probably the only cafe restaurant in

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PHO CUON / PAN-VIETNAMESE 71-77 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh 9am to midnight For a dish purported to be invented by French chef Didier Corlou, it is phenomenal how this wet rice paper filled with beef and herbs affair has so quickly been absorbed into the street food fold. Dipped into sweet fish sauce with a touch of chilli, it tastes good, too. The biggest proponents of this dish are on Truc Bach — a row of five street-side eateries that also sell standard, quan nhau meat and seafood fare. There is also another strip of joints just round the corner on Ngu Xa.

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VEGAN 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4140 9am to 9pm The set meals for one person or a group of six people make this a popular lunchtime eatery. Signs clearly demarcate the way

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BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 5022 10am to 7pm With the help of over 40 years of customer loyalty and repeated mentions in overseas press, Dac Kim has become the powerhouse of eateries serving up bun cha (white rice noodles with barbecued pork and herbs). The formula is simple. The mini pork patties are perfectly rounded, the bacon is perfectly grilled and then the portions are humongous. If you're feeling ravenous, the servings here will fill that merry gap, but if you want quality over quantity, look elsewhere. Has a second eatery at 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem.

Com Chay Nang Tam

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PHO GA 32 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 8492 5am to 4pm Ignore the doubters, this infamous eatery serves up some seriously wholesome pho ga (chicken noodle soup) in a hygienic, shared table indoor environment. The secret? The broth, a perfectly rounded chicken stock consomme. Portions are big, too, and diners can order chicken on the bone or off and can even get an extra egg added to the soup for good measure.

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FISH PORRIDGE / CHAO CA 213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3829 5281 Serves perhaps some of the best chao ca in the city. This rice porridge with fish is garnished with a healthy amount of fresh herbs and, if you choose, strips of banh quay – the Chinese style fried bread. The fish is boneless, which helps set this place apart from others selling the same dish. One bowl is VND30,000.

BUN BO 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3923 0701 7am to 11pm Dressed up like an indoor version of a streetside eatery, this megalith of a skinny bun bo restaurant is famed not only for its northern interpretation of a southern dish that you can't buy in the south, but also for its ga tan (stewed marinated chicken). The bun bo itself, a concoction of sauteed beef, peanuts, beansprouts, white noodles and sweet and sour sauce, is one of the better versions available in the city. And the beef is excellent. WIFI

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HUE CUISINE 150 Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da Tel: 6674 7917 6.30am to 10pm A no frills, ten-table restaurant easy to miss at the end of Nguyen Khuyen, just opposite the Temple of Literature. Specialises in dishes from Hue, like banh beo and banh khoai, all at local prices. The staff is friendly and helpful and the bun bo Hue is spot on.

BUN BO HUE 36c Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung 7am to 4pm This is the second branch of the ninemonth-old restaurant on Food Street. Like the Tong Duy Tan favourite, which is more restaurant than street-side affair, the new location serves up the same staples from further south including bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong and nem lui. Authentic, tasty and cheap

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CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 37 Nam Tran, Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Mau Dich is a blast from Vietnam’s subsidy era past with diners ordering from a blackboard and paying in vouchers. Traditional dishes like thit kho tau are written up daily and washed down with cool bia hoi. Hanoi’s most interesting themed restaurant.

Banh Cuon Phu Ly

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HOI AN CUISINE 1 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 3856 7am to 11pm A four-storey restaurant and café specialising in food from the centre of Vietnam — or, as the name suggests, the ancient town of Hoi An. It serves everything from the famous cao lau noodles and my quang tom, to bun bo nuong and com ga Hoi An. Also sells Thai and Chinese cuisine, cakes and ice cream. A spiral staircase, a second floor terrace and pictures of the ancient town top it all off.

Restaurants — Vietnamese

My Place

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INTERNATIONAL THAI 73 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 8586 7090 11am to 11pm For those with sensitive taste buds, this small restaurant serves up authentic Thai food that is lighter on the spice. Owned by a Bangkok native, the space itself is a small two-level restaurant with traditional Thai décor. At a convenient location near Hoan Kiem and Vincom Towers, Thai Elephant covers all the delicious bases with efficient, fast service and delivery.

Restaurants — SINGAPOREAN

Nisa

through the alley on Tran Hung Dao to this casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Everything on the menu is vegetarian, from standard tofu with tomato sauce to more obscure fake meat dishes. The walls are moldy but the food is fresh.

Hanoi that makes a genuine attempt at creating authentic Thai cuisine, mythical figures wearing traditional garb dance along the cream-coloured walls giving this contemporary venue a touch of elegance that goes beyond the food. The dishes come from all the regions of the country formerly known as Siam, with mains weighing in at somewhere around the VND100,000 mark.

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Quan 32

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PHO GA / PHO BO / PHO XAO 32 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem 5.30am to 11pm A hearty, slightly salty broth accompanies the pho ga at this well-known, 40-year-old street corner eatery also lauded for its

April 2013 Word | 93

tasty pho xao and pho bo. It's a simple, typically Hanoian streetside affair here with red plastic tables on the street and foot-high stools. The soup comes with an accompanying basket of slightly stale but buttery banh quay.

spring onions on the table and served up with sides of peanuts, bun noodles and fresh herbs. It's not street food prices cheap by any means, but it's darned tasty. Popular with tourists and locals.

Quan 49

PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 6am to 4pm A stilt-hutted street food eatery and cafe in the shadow of Elite Fitness doing a tasty version of the sweet and sour bun bo Nam Bo (southern-style beef noodles). Ladle in the chilli and mix up with the beansprouts, fresh herbs, peanuts and sauteed beef, and you have a spiced-up, filling meal. Also does decent pho ga (chicken noodle soup) and pho xao (fried noodles). Has a semi-mezannine cafestyle space out back.

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 65 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3976 0633 www.chimsao.com 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Situated in a turn-of-the-century French townhouse in a tucked away alley, the ‘whistling bird’ continues to offer some of the best ‘traditional’ Vietnamese food in the capital. Sit on the floor upstairs or enjoy seating downstairs, regardless this eatery serves up simple Vietnamese staples that are well executed and presented in a setting that makes one feel like a regal Hanoian.

Truc Lam Troi

Choi

Chim Sao

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VEGAN 39 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 6278 1848 7am to 9pm Vegetarians delight in being able to order anything off this more-creativethan-normal traditional Vietnamese Buddhist restaurant situated on a quiet street. Corn juice is the drink of choice here, as everyone around sips the tepid yellow stuff, and the array of fried tofu vegetable dishes makes you reconsider vegan cuisine as “health food.” Order an office lunch plate or dine in during the weekend surrounded by families and walls adorned with traditional Buddhist imagery. SMOKING DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 DELIVERY DELIVERY HAPPY HOUR 2 DELIVERY HAPPY LIVEHOUR MUSIC 2 HAPPY LIVE LIVE HOUR MUSIC MUSIC LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC DJ

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CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 26 A-B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6133. ngonhanoi@vnn.vn 7am to 10pm Large and always busy restaurant set in two colonial buildings. The courtyard is filled with tables and fairy light covered trees, which are circled by 18 cooking

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INDOCHINE / VIETNAMESE 13 Tran Hung Dao, Tel: 3933 3533 Set in converted colonial villas and frequented primarily by travellers that unload in front of the establishment on massive tour buses, this venue is imbued with the nostalgia of Indochine, replete with chess boards, stylish fans and waitresses outfitted in ao dais. Boasts a large menu filled with Vietnamese favourites and much more.

STEAK / CHINESE NOODLES 52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 2251 7am to 10.30pm Located on the corner of Hoa Ma, this steak served sizzling-on-the-griddle eatery packs no punches when it comes to getting your beef. Get the standard banh my affair and the imported US steak is doled up with meatballs, fried egg, chips and lots of fat. It's a cholesterol mess of a meal but really tasty. Also does bun bo Hue, Phuc Kien noodles and the Khmer Chinese hu tieu Nam Vang. Has restaurants at 349 Doi Can and 71 Tran Duy Hung.

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VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 38 Hang Hom Tel: 3928 7241 An unassuming establishment that rarely fills up, which means that customers often benefit from better service and the servers utmost attention. What the restaurant lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with a large menu that is chalked full of reasonably priced Vietnamese fare and some western staples.

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CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 8162 sales@ngonhanoi.com 7am to 9.30pm Long-time favourite serving up Vietnamese classics in a large French villa and courtyard. Menu is huge, made up of street-food options and higher end dishes from Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City. Quick service makes it ideal for lunch and the array of options makes it perfect for newcomers to Vietnamese cuisine. Order loads and share, of course.

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Quan an Ngon

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bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem Tel: 1355 9096 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the rollyour-own cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

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CHA CA 14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3929 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm A funky wooden-floored two storey, one-dish-only eatery on a street devoted to one of Hanoi's best known dishes, cha ca. Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in Vietnam (established 1873) the deal is straightforward. The butter-coated, premarinated fish is sauteed with dill and

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mid-range

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LOUNGE CAFE 15A Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 0913 221971 Step downstairs through Choi’s imposing wooden doors, and into their cellar-like lair. Intricate jazz tunes float through the spacious interior, adorned with artwork that pays tribute to greats like D. Ellington and Bo Diddley. Enjoy a smart, cozy setting with selections of wines, soups, salads and other Vietnamese comfort foods to enjoy.

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VEGAN Nha 2, Ngo 12 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 1622 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm Simplicity is the key at this small but airy, zen-like bamboo-table eatery located behind the Syrena Centre. A rarity in Vietnam — the cuisine here doesn’t only focus on faux meat imitation — the menu mixes canh (broth) with a range of light dishes, Vietnamese-style salads and a selection of tofu and gluten-inspired mains. Worth a try for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike.

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Vietnamese / Ethnic 5 Hang Tre, hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 4200 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3771 6372 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3796 2647 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 0639 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6377 10am to midnight Always busy, often hectic, this multifloored restaurant is for diners who don’t mind loud noises and sitting on the floor. It’s best for groups so you can order an array of dishes ranging from the more exotic frog legs, buffalo and ostrich, to the trusted standbys; catfish spring rolls, papaya salad and fried tofu. But it’s the exclusive Highway 4 flavoured rice wines that can be taken as shots or mixed into cocktails that keep this place crowded.

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stoves. Here the chefs serve Vietnamese classics from all over the country a la carte style. Good for street side classics done well in the comfort of an airy restaurant. Of the 14 dining spaces, one room holds 30 guests. Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3972 8001 clubopera@orientalstars.com.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Indochine elegance mixes with top-end culinary flair to create one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. Fine dining it isn't — this country's cuisine doesn't really lend itself to that type of cooking. But quality ingredients and a twist of creativity makes the fare here well worth the higher price tag — think creative spring rolls and lobster cooked up with a passion-fruit sauce. This is just the start. Also has a great downstairs lounge bar.

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IMPERIAL / CONTEMPORARY 63 Pham Hong Thai, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3927 5920 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm After shutting the doors at its former location, Com Viet is nestled in the tranquil neighbourhood near Truc Bach Lake. The ‘imperial’ staple, with its pristine décor and antiques, traditional bites and regal atmosphere, specialises in serving up traditional treats with contemporary fusion — think cheese wrapped in beef with a side of pickled cucumbers and a glass of red. Go on the right night and catch live traditional music in the courtyard and feel like a king.

Pots ‘N Pans

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57 Bui Thi Xuan Street, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 0204, www.potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant,

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29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 ext. 6414 satine@hoteldelopera.com Situated in the heart of Hotel de l’Opera’s 8 storey central atrium, Satine offers a high class dining experience. Signature Vietnamese dishes from around the country will be presented to guests including some of the country’s best kept culinary secrets passed down by generations.

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VIETNAMESE SEAFOOD 55 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 6270 0787 10am to 10pm There are two of these restaurants in Vietnam and the other is in Phu Quoc, the location of probably the best seafood in the country. Every type of ocean-breathing animal is available here in addition to an array of tofu and vegetables. From crab to Russian sturgeon and grouper, most of this seafood harks from down south or Halong Bay. The restaurant is set up so that every day is a banquet and you can pick your poisons from the tank.

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Tel: 3943 9342 www.wildlotus.com.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm One of the city’s most popular Vietnamese restaurants is a delight from the entrance inwards. Walk over water features and 100 roses and up the spiral staircase into subdued lighting, warm colours and a menu that mixes subtle, well-executed Asian flavours. Not for those who love the sharpness of some street foods, but definitely for those who have guests in town or business clients to schmooze. Quite an experience.

Restobars

Nick Ross

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CLASSY FUSION 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 5831 www.daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. Additional services include catering, BBQ rentals, playroom, kids menu, takeaway and local delivery.

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FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 www.etehanoi.com 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

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LOUNGE CAFÉ 9 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 3710 1566 Nestled along bustling Au Co, seconds away from West Lake, Grain and Grape provides a comfortable, elegant setting to enjoy a glass of wine alongside an appetizing meal. Outdoor seating, dining room, and an upstairs seating area adorned with stacks of wine bottles along the walls only

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escape the heat. Western and Vietnamese fare is on offer, they have a huge range of wine, beer and coffee and they serve excellent fries too.

give testament to its extensive, diverse menu.

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INTERNATIONAL The Clubhouse, Ciputra, Tel: 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

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23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 8388 www.Jackson_steakhouse.com 9.30am to midnight This new addition to the city from the Alfresco’s Group is definitely the meatiest yet. In the shape of a four floor, chic restobar — which has a bar lounge on the ground, a restaurant vibe on the second and third, and a “boardroom” on the fourth — Jacksons Steakhouse serves of well presented plates of imported Oz and New Zealand steaks as well as seafood. Of course, the large restaurant wouldn’t be complete without a large wine list to match.

La Petit Tonkinoise

Le Pub

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R&R Tavern

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INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs

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INTERNATIONAL / WINE AND JAZZ 12 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3927 5708 5.30pm to midnight Tucked into a quiet street close to Truc Bach, this romantic, Parisian-styled lounge exhibits art from up-and-coming Hanoi

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CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3398 1979 www.southgatehanoi.com Sunday to Wednesday 11.30am to midnight. Thursday to Saturday 11.30am to 2am An American-run casual yet sophisticated restobar on Food Street with a great outdoor terrace area, a shared indoor bar space, a chef’s table and upstairs seating. Matched by contemporary décor, the creative food menu focuses on doing comfort food well, while a decent new and old world wine list and innovative cocktails make up the mix. Popular with the media and artsy set.

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SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 1901 therooftop@vnn.vn 8am to midnight If location counts for anything, then here it is spectacular. With a 270-degree view over the whole of the city, the up-on-high theme of the Rooftop is used to its full. The bar is pretty cool, too, with bare brick, sofa-style seating, glass fronted wine displays and a private room out back for more intimate drinking. Also does day-time office lunches, coffee and decent bar food.

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SPANISH 26 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 8585 2563 9am to 11pm Nestled just off the main Old Quarter drag, this bar and restaurant daubed in the colours of the Spanish flag is the first genuine Iberian tapas bar in town. Sells a range of fare from paella through to tapas, a selection of tortilla and Spanish mains, and also serves lethal but tasty sangria. Spanish tempanillos and reds make up the enigmatic mix.

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artists and is best experienced on the nights with live music. The menu offerings are rich and robust, from chicken curry to spaghetti and roast duck, all created to pair well with wine. Come for dinner and stay for the live jazz and well-curated wine selection.

BAR, CAFÉ AND MUSIC VENUE 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho www.rockandrolltavern-hanoi.com Come grab a drink at the newly revamped R &R to enjoy a taste of American style brew and their comforting Western dishes. The pub still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some quality live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.

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BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2104 www.lepub.org 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also + gets involved in the local community through regular events. Has a second Le Pub at Third Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho.

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ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm Located on the corner of Quang Trung, this large new cafe, restaurant and bar is housed in a restored colonial building. The beautiful courtyard is liberally decorated with plants, fans, blowlight jets of water, and shade is provided by tasteful cream parasols. Inside, a non-smoking, airconditioned room is the perfect place to

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space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE +

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12 Truong Han Sieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 6680 9124 www.tadioto.com 8.30am to Midnight Alternative and nostalgic restaurant bar with a dim lit conversational ambience. This French-style villa is adorned with old-world architectural styles and hints of engaging contemporary artwork along its walls. Enjoy a glass of wine to complement a variety of succulent light dishes in this combination café, bar, and gallery. Includes lounge seating, two bars, an outdoor patio, and two multipurpose rooms for small gatherings. Tadioto is an exciting, intimate venue for live music, literary readings, and art showcases.

West Lake Out & About

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AU C i O Ma 09 i Tha 11 Syrena Centre

InterContinental Westlake

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other Businesses

The Cart

L’s Place

St. Honore; Vine

Oasis; Red Apron

Segafredo; Tracy’s; Kitchen

Vine Cellar Door

Mandarin; India Palace

Yuki’s

Al Fresco’s; Tay Tap

Kitchen Art

House of Son Tinh

Santal Spa; Bamboo Village

Don’s Tay Ho

City Zoo; Better Day

Da Paolo; Coconut Cafes

Collective Concepts

La Salsa

Binh’s Salon

White Cloud

L’Atelier

Cielo

Pure Heaven

Bobby Chinn

International SOS

Le Marrakech

Ham Long Mini Market

Daluva

Module 17

Joma

George’s Fashion

Hanoi Rock City

Veggie’s

Love Chocolate Cafe

Zenith Yoga

El Gaucho

April 2013 Word | 95

Leisure & Arts LISTINGS

amusement 096 Antiques 096 books shops 096 cinemas 096 clubs & societies 096 cooking classes 096 CYCLING 096 dancing 096 fitness 096 football, soccer & rugby 098 galleries 098 golf courses 099 haidressers & salons 099

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

kids 099 leisure general 099 massage 099 nails 099 performing arts 099 spas 099 sports classes 100 tennis 100 vietnamese classes 100 yoga 100 ColumnS book buff 097 cinema buff 098

amusement

cinemas Cinematheque

Cosmos

168 Ngoc Khanh, Dong Da This bowling alley may be small, but if you’re hankering for a night at the lanes, this one has instant replay cameras that will show your strike again in slow motion.

Hanoi Star Bowl

2B Pham Ngoc Trach, Dong Da Tel: 3574 1614 Plenty of lanes, and the zany colours add to the festive feel. A game will cost VND27,000, plus a little extra for the shoe rental. All in all it makes for a night of good fun.

Quan Tom

89 Bui Thi Xuan Tel: 3294 47844 The staff at this karaoke bar is quite friendly. Large, comfortable rooms, and – their claim to fame – a vast English language track list, makes for a good night.

Antiques 54 Traditions Gallery

30 Hang Bun, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3715 0194 www.54traditions.com.vn The only gallery in Vietnam focusing on the antiques, artifacts and art of Vietnam’s 53 minority groups and the Kinh majority people. Has over 1,000 items on display and objects in the collection have been exhibited in museums both in Hanoi and abroad.

book shops Bookworm

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 3711 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

Hieu Sach Thang Long

55 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7043 A large bookstore with mostly Vietnamese material, but there is also a selection of French and English books and even some literature.

Xunhasaba

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 4068 Often referred to just as ‘The Foreign Language Bookstore’, you’ll find a decent selection of both books and magazines. Their biggest section is composed of ESL materials, but you will also find fiction.

96 | Word April 2013

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2648 Not a movie theater per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

Megastar

Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, 6th floor, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 3333 www.megastarmedia.net Inside Vincom towers, this big, westernstyle multiplex shows some of the latest English language and Asian foreign films. The experience includes fairly wellstocked concession stands, comfortable seats, air conditioning and a booming sound system.

Megastar Pico Mall

299 Tay Son, Dong Da The second Megastar outlet in the city in the newly renovated Pico Mall. Generally less crowed than the theatre at Vincom Towers, but the same concept. For real Hollywood and American fast food fans, has a Pizza Hut and Swensen’s within the same cinema complex.

National Cinema Centre

87 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3514 2278 Cineplex with several smaller theaters and an arcade. Movies are quite cheap, especially matinees. Be sure to ask if the movie is subtitled in Vietnamese or dubbed.

clubs & societies Democrats Abroad – Vietnam

www.democratsabroad.org Affiliated with the American Democratic Party, like-minded and politically active individuals can stay in touch and continue to affect the political winds that are blowing Stateside. Hosts regular events for every major election cycle.

American Club

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 1850 www.americanclubhanoi.com A bit worn around the edges, but the facilities are still useful and the grounds pleasant. They host frequent events that are open to the public. Wide lawn, volleyball and basketball courts may make the place worth a visit.

Hanoi Club

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 The exclusive social and fitness club is located on the banks of West Lake.

Golfers hit balls into the lake from the driving range and swimmers enjoy a lovely view from the pool. The gym is small and classes are not included as part of the steep yearly membership fees.

L’Espace

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem www.ambafrance-vn.org The cultural arm of the French Embassy is very active in the cultural life of the city. They both organise and host many functions – music, performing arts, film. Large French language library as well as classes and workshops.

cooking classes Hanoi Cooking Centre

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0088. www.hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

Hidden Hanoi

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 254045 www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

Highway4 Cooking Class

31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 0577 The well-known restaurant also offers oneoff cooking courses in the kitchens at their Truc Bach location. Don’t worry if you forget some of the tricks, as the class includes a recipe booklet.

Kitchen Art Store and Studio

Lane 38/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 6680 2770 www.kitchenart.vn Well stocked and modern cooking store offering cooking classes with one of Vietnam's popular food personalities. Kitchen Art Basic Baking Classes also open to non-Vietnamese speaking students. The friendly staff ensures that everyone is able to follow the instructor.

KOTO

Lane 52/28, House 9, To Ngoc Van Tel: 3747 0377 www.koto.com.vn This charitable organisation, which helps street kids gain the skills to succeed in the hospitality industry, also offers cooking classes to the public on Tuesdays at their training centre. Learn how to make some of the items on their menu at home. Pick up is also available at their Van Mieu location.

cycling The Hanoi Bicycle Collective (THBC)

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 8246 www.thbc.vn Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles. To add to the eclectic, community spirit they also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin & tonic. Quite a mix!

dancing Aspara Dance Studio

Level 3, 141 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6869 Gate 3, Hanoi Academy, Ciputra Tel: 3743 0455 www.apsarastudio.com.vn

Cosy, friendly and well equipped dance studios offering dance and fitness classes for adults and children. Classes include ballet, folk dance, jazz, hip-hop, contemporary, belly dance, salsa, zumba and yoga for family. Instructors are qualified and certified from Vietnam Dance College or overseas.

fitness Elite Fitness

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6281 www.elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

Four Seasons Swimming Pool

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250 This beautiful hotel has a swimming pool for VND40,000 per day, and another VND10,000 for a locker to keep your pantaloons. It might be a good idea to go during the off hours, as it’s a well used pool. But if laps are what you want, the pool is large and, at times, quiet.

Hanoi Bootcamp BeeActive

To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho beeactivetoday@gmail.com The successor to the weekly bootcamp famously run by fitness professional Helen Kindness, BeeActive continues the community spirit by bringing together both the fit and unfit to work out on the streets. To take part, drop them an email. Sessions are all held around the To Ngoc Van area, unless stated otherwise.

NShape Fitness

71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 6266 0495 www.nshapefitness.vn This gym with American Life Fitness cardio and weight machines, provides a clean, uncrowded environment and expertly staffed facilities with a selection of fitness classes for its members. Classes include boxing, yoga and groupX with both Vietnamese and foreign fitness trainers on hand to give exercisers advice. Membership starts from VND1.5 million per month with no joining fee.

Star Fitness

4th Floor, The Garden, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3787 5353 This lifestyle, top-end gym in My Dinh offers massage rooms, steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, cold plunge baths, gym areas, exercise studios, locker rooms, and a swimming pool. It is a great option for residents living on the outskirts of the city.

Sunway Health Club

19 Pham Dinh Ho, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 3888 Very good equipment in this small gym, housed in a little hotel. None of the extra frills that you might expect at a larger place, but all the machines are running and well maintained. Monthly price of membership for non-guests is about VND1.4 million.

The Little Gym of Hanoi

4th floor, 402 Vincom Centre, Long Bien Tel: 0935 158 555 www.thelittlegym.com.vn A place that aims to show kids the meaning of serious fun. At The Little Gym, a positive environment and bilingual classes create opportunities for children to try things and build self-confidence, all with a proud grin. Kids from four months through to 12 years are welcome to develop motor skills and more — this is a great way to give your child a brain boost, work on their social skills and get

{ book Buff } ** Books of the Month * *

Delving deep in Vietnam, Bookworm’s Trung, suggests some books that can help give an insight into the country

or years The Gioi (pronounced Tay Zoi) Publishing House has been putting out indepth books about Vietnam in English and French, at very reasonable prices. A good read for anyone interested in religious belief and practices of the country, including historical backgrounds, is Religions in Vietnam by Nguyen Thanh Xuan. It’s a comprehensive but easy read that deals with Buddhism, Catholicism, Protestantism, Caodaism and the smaller groupings such as Islam— not forgetting a few intriguing charismatic sects.

self-guided walk through Bat Trang Traditional Pottery Village, and a walking tour through Van Mieu, Temple of Literature.

The Red Bridge

Heritage and History World Heritages in Vietnam, published in 2011, is a comprehensive guide to UNESCO-recognised natural and cultural sites and practices. The book gives detailed but readably interesting information on both the two natural heritage sites in Vietnam — Halong Bay and Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park and about the five cultural heritage sites. One of the sites is the Thang Long Imperial Citadel in Hanoi. Three of the sites are in central Vietnam and can be taken in on one concentrated journey. They are the old imperial capital of Hue, the ancient town of Hoi An, and My Son Sanctuary. There is also lots of information given on the heritage-listed Giong Festival.

Giong was a magical hero in the days of the sixth Hung Kings and was responsible for repelling an enemy invasion. This is celebrated in different ways in villages and towns in the Red River Delta, but especially worthy of note is the festival in Phu Dong from the 7th to the 9th of the fourth lunar month. There are also four types of performed music that are heritage listed and covered in the book. Bac Ninh Quan Ho folk songs can sometimes be heard at the festivals mentioned above. Nha Nhac, or Hue Court Music, is linked with song, dance and drama, and is an intricate but fascinating series of genres. Ca Tru singing has been successfully revived and is

accompanied by five stringed instruments and a flute. The section on Gong music from the Central Highlands, which is a medium of communication between ethnic people and their deities, will have aficionados booking flights to Pleiku and Buon Ma Thuot for gong festivals. In association with Friends of Vietnam Heritage, The Gioi has published a series of slim but informative booklets to help you explore and delve deeper into the wealth of culture here in Hanoi. They cover all sorts of topics and places around the city including: Traditional Medicine Street, Hoan Kiem Lake — its legends and temples, Vignettes of French Culture in Hanoi with maps, Tran Quoc Pagoda, a

For those expats with small kids who want to explore the city with them in tow you can’t miss the delightfully illustrated children’s picture book, The Red Bridge, by Kylie Dunstan (once an Hanoi expat since returned to Australia). It deals with Claire, a small girl just arrived from Oz, who gets lost in the busy city near Hoan Kiem and finds a new Vietnamese Friend on the red bridge who shows her the ins and outs of Hanoi. It’s a book worth looking out for if your newly emigrated little ones are out of sorts and feeling lonely. Parents, and their children, will delight in the touchy feely fabric pictures. And, of course, the red bridge spanning part of Hoan Kiem Lake is the perfect place to begin a love affair with the city. Who knows, you might even spot the elusive turtle as you ponder the view, The Gioi book in hand. For more information on Bookworm go to www. bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original store in Chau Long in the Truc Bach area, Bookworm have a second, smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in West Lake. Located behind the Sheraton, it can be found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho.

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{ CINEMA Buff } ** THE YEAR IN FILM * *

of an alien race. The arrival of an unexpected traveller causes him to question what he knows about the planet, his mission and himself. Hits the screens on Apr. 12 at MegaStar and Lotte Landmark Cinema (Keangnam Towers, My Dinh).

Lincoln Director: Steven Spielberg Stars: Daniel Day-Lewis, Sally Field, David Strathairn Genre: Biography, Drama, History

Oblivion Director: Joseph Kosinski Stars: Tom Cruise, Morgan Freeman, Andrea Riseborough Genre: Action, Adventure, Sci-Fi A court martial sends a veteran soldier to a distant planet, where he is to destroy the remains

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Vietclimb

So 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho Tel: 5321 9235 www.vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

Vincharm Spa and Gym

6th & 7th floor Vincom Centre, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8686 www.vincharmspa.com Far more Zen then your average gym, work out to toned-down music while toning up on state of the art equipment, and have a post workout drink at the juice bar. There is even a separate swimming pool for tots, and a full service spa. Top-end equipment and services come with top-end monthly fees — not for the feint-hearted.

football, soccer & rugby Hanoi Capitals Football Club

www.hanoi-capitals.blogspot.com Hanoi Capitals don’t play. This football club is serious about their sport. The uniforms and attitudes alone tell you they’re no Bad News Bears. If you want to let your skills shine get in contact with Ricky at 0903 413339.

Set in 1865, as the American Civil War winds toward conclusion, the film tells the story of the 16th U.S. president, Abraham Lincoln, in his tumultuous final months in office. Lincoln endeavors to achieve passage of the landmark constitutional amendment that will forever ban slavery from the United States. But his task is a race against time, for peace may come at any time, and if it comes before the amendment is passed, the returning southern states will stop it before it can become law. Lincoln must, by almost any means possible, obtain enough votes from a recalcitrant Congress before peace arrives. With the moral courage and fierce determination to succeed, his choices during this critical moment will change the fate of generations to come. Hits screens on Apr. 5 at MegaStar cinema complexes in Vincom Tower (191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung), and in Pico Mall (229 Tay Son, Dong Da).

them moving. Besides a range of gymnastics classes, they also host awesome birthday bashes, organise kids camps and arrange parent survival nights.

Hanoi Youth Football League

www.hanoiyouthfootball.com/english/home/ The biggest youth football league in the capital. Youths aged 8 to 16 years old come together to play regular tournaments.

Viet Celts

www.vietcelts.com The first and only Gaelic Football league in Hanoi has recently added a women’s team. The teams play in the Southeast Asia Gaelic League as well as in tournaments all over the region. Bring a sporting spirit as a spectator or a player. Call Gareth for more information: 0904 228629.

Vietnam Swans Iron man 3 (3D) Director: Shane Black Stars: Robert Downey Jr., Guy Pearce, Gwyneth Paltrow Genre: Action, Sci-Fi, Thriller When Tony Stark / Iron Man finds his personal world destroyed at his enemy's hands, he embarks on a harrowing quest to find those responsible. This journey, at every turn, will test his mettle. With his back against the wall, Stark is left to survive by his own devices, relying on his ingenuity and instincts to protect those closest to him. As he fights his way back, Stark discovers the answer to the question that has secretly haunted him: does the man make the suit or does the suit make the man? Hits the screens on Apr. 29 at MegaStar

www.vietnamswans.com In true Aussie style, the Vietnam Swans footballers hold not only weekly matches and training sessions, but social and drinking affairs as well. Concerned just as much with fun as with winning, this club is welcoming to anyone. who is willing galleries to have a good time.

Apricot Gallery

40B Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8965 www.apricot-artvietnam.com This centrally located space houses art by some of Vietnam’s best-known contemporary artists, such as Hoang Hai Anh and Dinh Quan, as well as up and coming artists.

Art Vietnam

Ngo 66 So Nha 2, Pho Yen Lac, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3862 3184 www.artvietnamgallery.com Now operating from the private residence of owner Suzanne Lecht, Art Vietnam is one of Hanoi's most respected galleries, featuring contemporary art in all its forms: painting, lacquer, photography and video, from both upand-coming and established artists. To see the full list of artworks available, go to the website. Gallery viewing is by appointment only

Hanoi Art Contemporary Gallery

36-38 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7192 www.hanoi-artgallery.com This art space is home to a large collection of your standard tourist fare along with a smatter of more unique pieces.

Mai Gallery

113 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0568 www.maigallery-vietnam.com Several floors of paintings, regularly changed, by some of the best known contemporary artists in the country, some of whom they’ve helped in gaining international recognition. Mai specialises is finding the perfect décor for both homes and offices.

Maison Des Arts

31 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 8096 www.maisondesartshanoi.com A gallery near the Temple of Literature with several floors bills itself not only as an art gallery, but a multi-purpose social and cultural space. Frequent exhibitions feature both Vietnamese and international artists. Mlle. Nga, who runs the space, also involves herself in several other cultural projects around Hanoi.

Red River Gallery

7 Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 9071 www.redriverartvietnam.com This small gallery has focused on building a collection of traditional Hanoi images with a modern twist since it opened in 1990. The gallery actively seeks out talented young contemporary artists.

Suffusive Gallery

35A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem www.suffusiveart.com Don’t be fooled by the signs hawking café sua da. Hidden within the coffee shop interior is a small gallery showing some of Vietnam’s newest talent.

Viet Fine Arts Gallery

96 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6667 www.vietfinearts.com If you’re looking for a well-known name, and a high price tag to match, Viet Fine Arts sells work by some of Hanoi’s more famous artists.

scalp massage, shampooing, colouring and styling.

This can be fun for adults as well as children.

so-traditional laser and plastic surgery.

Frangipani Spa

The Little Gym of Hanoi

18 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 38 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem One of a number of foot massage parlours in town that has treatments focusing as much on the pressure points of your feet at they do on the rest of your body. Strong hands, unbranded oils and, if you ask, tiger balm oil.

405 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 6329 2915 www.frangipani.com.vn New garden-themed day spa named after the frangipani flower, known in Vietnam for its healing properties. Services include hair salon, nail care and massages. Details to amenities like bathrobes, slippers and towels provide a comfortable atmosphere.

TA Salon

Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 1754 / 3758 2940 (Ciputra). Hotline: 0912 267613 Multi-functional hair and body salon with a range of treatments running from haircut, highlights, shampoo, straightening and perm to hot stone foot and body massages, a range of facials, waxing, bikini lines and body scrub. With a first salon in Ciputra, TA number two is at the Hanoi club. Popular with both western and Asian expats as well as A-class Vietnamese.

The Hair Workshop

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3623 8115 A fitness club that also boasts a two-level driving range where the balls are hit into the water. No net means you can gauge your driving. The price for a bucket of golf balls depends on whether or not you’re a member.

Tam Dao Golf and Resort

www.tamdaogolf.com Relatively new golf club near the base of the mountains at Tam Dao. It is about two hours from the city, but does provide an 18-hole course with a clubhouse and a spectacular view, surrounded by green hills.

Hairdressers & Salons Binh’s Salon

3 Lane 31/10 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2656 A salon and spa offering a variety of cosmetic services, and specialising in western cuts and colour.

Dinh Hair Salon

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 09877 18899 A small but popular hair salon that serves both expats and locals. The many repeat customers go back because of Dinh’s willingness to both follow instructions, or to be creative when asked. Services include

Tiniworld

51 Xuan Dieu, Syrena Towers; 229 Tay Son, Pico Mall An indoor play-haven for children inside the safety of a shopping centre. Pay an entry fee of VND50,000 and let your kids loose on the jungle gym and video arcadestyle games. Small and with enough staff on hand so you can let your kids play, and head out to do a little shopping next door.

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5980 Located in Hanoi Towers, The Hair Workshop has a number of hairdressers used to cutting and styling all types of hair. The prices are significantly higher than they would be on the street, or at a smaller shop, but there are many people who refuse to go anywhere else. A full service salon that also offers such services as waxing.

Vincom Towers

Hair Space

Friends of Vietnamese Heritage

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 127554 Run by an Australian expat named Cat, this is a small but comfortable and well-run hair studio located in the Hidden Hanoi building. There is only Cat and her one assistant, so be sure to make an appointment.

Tran Hung Hair Creation

5 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4946 Located near Reunification Park, Hung has a long list of satisfied clients, both western and Vietnamese. Be prepared to allot one to two hours for a cut and more for colour as Hung is a perfectionist.

kids

golf courses Hanoi Club Driving Range

4th Floor, 402A Vincom Center, Long Bien Tel: 3515 8555 www.thelittlegym.com/hanoi The newest addition to the Hanoi family entertainment scene, this globally-known brand has more than 300 locations across the world. Has a range of programmes for kids aged four months to 12 years old including gymnastics, karate, dance classes, sports skills and more, with the activities focusing on developing both cerebral and physical capacity. Also hosts birthday parties, organises camps and arranges parents nights.

Hanoi Zoo

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung There are a bunch of toy stores and shops for children in the mall area of the second tower. Also, near the food court, you’ll find an arcade with video games and tiny rides for very small kids.

leisure general www.fvheritage.org A non-profit organization devoted to the culture of Vietnam. People from all over the world join together to educate themselves and others on Vietnam and preserve its heritage. The organization holds events such as lectures, city walks and excursions available to the public.

Hanoi Hash House Harriers

www.hanoih3.com This big, assorted “family” gets together every week to go on out of town excursions, for hour-long runs along paths marked by flour spots, and with no lack of beer stops along the way. Drink and get into shape at the same time, and add some sight-seeing into the picture. Emphasis here is on fun. Bus leaves on Saturdays from the American Club on Hai Ba Trung at 2pm in summer and 1:30pm in winter.

Off Kim Ma, opposite Daewoo Hotel Really as much a park as it is a zoo, you can find Vietnamese families on picnics here on any given day. Strewn throughout, sometimes in curiously small cages, you’ll also find a number of animals large and small, all indigenous to the country. Also, there are other attractions for children such as a fun house, and big, floating plastic balls they can climb into. The One Man Cinema operates out of here at weekends.

Hanoi Little League Baseball

Kinderpark

237 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 6671 2249 www.justmassage.org.vn Aromatherapy, Swedish, shiatsu and pregnancy massages all given by the hands and touch of nine visually impaired therapists. The massages here are professional and, of course, in aid of a great cause. Check their website for their range of promotions.

614 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: 3710 1666 www.kinderpark.vn A huge international indoor playground for children of all ages founded by three likeminded mums. The indoor playground covers an impressive 2,000 sqm, and offers activities, birthday parties and a well-trained staff. There is a café for parents to sit in while their children run amok.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre

Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Daily shows of traditional rustic Vietnamese carved puppets, animate folkloric tales accompanied by music.

www.hanoibaseball.com If you’re looking for a little league baseball team in Hanoi, this is the website to check out. One of the first, if not still the only, such club in town, their mission is to teach young people about the game, teamwork and to have a great time. Practice every Saturday at Xuan Dinh Field from 6.15 to 8.30 am

massage Just Massage

Hanoi Aesthetic Institute

14 Yen Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3945 4548 Trained at the Tue Tinh Traditional Hospital, the therapists at this no frills, traditional Vietnamese massage centre use a variety of techniques including tuina, aromatherapy, ayurvedic and shiatsu. Also offer a range of healing treatments as well as not-

Thanh Gia

nails Fancy Spa

26 Dinh Ngang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 4183 A small Vietnamese spa and salon. Prices are quite high, but the shop offers a wide range of services in addition to manicure/ pedicure.

LinkQ

271 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3725 2359 One of a chain of all-purpose beauty salons that specialises in manicures and pedicures. This place has a lot of business from word of mouth, so it’s best to call ahead and make an appointment.

Thu Cuc Exotical Spa

57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 www.thucucbeauty.com This all-purpose beauty salon offers spa pedicures in a Zen-like atmosphere where your manicurist won’t be chatting on her mobile phone.

Top Spot

52 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8344 They offer a long-lasting, professional manicure and pedicure service for barely more than you would pay to get your nails cut on the street. The staff doesn’t speak much English, but they have an extensive menu to choose from.

performing arts Hanoi Circus

67 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung For VND50,000, see an array of live performances, both human and animal. Bears ride motorbikes, monkeys do tricks. The acrobatic performances are particularly amazing.

Hanoi International Theatre Society (HITS)

www.hitshanoi.com Hanoi’s premiere community theatre group has been entertaining audiences around the city since 2001. The amateur acting society both draws from and gives back to the local community. All profits from the bi-yearly performances are donated to charities in Vietnam.

Hanoi Opera House

1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0113 www.ticketvn.com This French colonial building hosts a packed schedule of cultural events throughout the year, everything from the New York Philharmonic to cutting edge Vietnamese performance art has graced its stage.

Thang Long Ca Tru Theatre

25 Tong dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3665 54608 Head to this theatre, lodged on the campus of the Vietnam Revolution Museum, for a taste of one of Vietnam’s most traditional musical forms.

Youth Theatre

11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hoan Kiem A few blocks south of Hoan Kiem Lake, this community theatre space hosts both music events and theatre productions.

spas Kim Dung

38 Nguyen Cong Hoan, Ba Dinh Tel: 3483 50079 Face massage, hair care, manicure, pedi-

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{Medical Buff}

cure, this is a one-stop shop for all sorts of comfort services and products. Facilities are clean and modern. Hairstyling also available.

Lancy Spa

Febrile Seizures in Children

febrile seizure is a convulsion in young children which can be alarming to see. But don’t panic, they aren’t as dangerous as they may look. Caused by a sudden spike in body temperature, often from an infection, the seizure is usually harmless and typically doesn't indicate a long-term or serious problem. Making sure the child is safe during a seizure, comforting afterwards and following up with a doctor's visit is the best way to deal with a febrile seizure.

What causes febrile seizures?

About one in 25 children will experience a febrile seizure normally between six months and five years old — they are particularly common in toddlers. Most febrile seizures occur because of fever, a sudden spike in body temperature usually caused by an infection. The most common cause is a typical childhood illness, such as a middle ear infection or viral infections (e.g. roseola). Lowgrade fevers can occur after any childhood vaccine, including rarely after the measles-mumpsWhat are the symptoms? rubella (MMR) vaccination. A child having a febrile seizure may: Your doctor will examine your — have a fever usually higher child to determine the possible than 102 F (38.9 C) causes, they may order blood — lose consciousness and urine tests to detect an — shake or jerk the arms and legs infection. A less common but very on both sides of the body, roll serious cause of sudden fever his or her eyes back in the head with seizures is an infection of — lose urine a child’s brain and spinal cord — cry or moan (central nervous system), such — have trouble breathing* as meningitis or encephalitis. If — vomit* your doctor has any reason to suspect this a spinal tap (lumbar Your child may be sleepy and puncture) may be necessary. confused after the seizure. *Seek emergency medical attention if the seizure lasts longer than five minutes, the child has repeated seizures within 24 hours or a seizure is accompanied by vomiting, a stiff neck, problems with breathing or extreme sleepiness.

What should I do? During the seizure, stay calm, stay close and follow these steps: — Place your child on his or her side, somewhere secure. — Loosen any tight or restrictive clothing. — Don't restrain your child or interfere with your child's movements. — Don't put anything, including medication, in your child’s mouth. — If possible time the seizure, notice where the shaking starts, and look for other signs of illness. This can help your doctor understand the cause.

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Can febrile seizures be prevented?

Low-grade fevers generally don't need treatment. Acetaminophen (Tylenol) or ibuprofen (not recommended for under six months) at the first indication of fever will help reduce the fever, but won't necessarily prevent a seizure. Neither will they shorten the course of infection. Do not give children aspirin, it can trigger a rare but potentially fatal disorder known as Reye's syndrome.

Are there any long term consequences? Most febrile seizures produce no lasting effects. The odds that your child will develop epilepsy after a seizure are small. Children with epilepsy sometimes have their first seizures during fevers. Dr WB McNaull MB ChB MPhil (Cambridge) DTM&H FRSTM (London) is the medical director of Family Medical Practice, 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh

35 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9461 This all-purpose spa offers the full menu: massage, nails, skincare at reasonable prices. Discounts offered to regular customers.

Orchids Spa

34 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4862 www.orchids-spa.com Just a few steps away from bia hoi corner, the unisex Orchids spa recently one a VTV award for being one of the top spas in Hanoi. Treatments range from facials through to waxing, saunas and slimming treatments.

Santal Spa

112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 4686 Private rooms with showers, a beautifully designed interior, well-trained and professional staff. The place to go if you want to forget a busy work week, or the busy streets.

Thu Cuc Exotical Spa

57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 Near Truc Bac, Thu Cuc is an all-purpose spa where you can get a full-body massage, a facial, manicure or pedicure in a relaxing environment. Both prices and service are comparable to the West.

Zen Spa

100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9889 Brushing up against the banks of the Red River, this Indochine-styled day spa hideaway comes replete with an oasis-like bonsai garden and peace and quiet, a perfect tonic to the chaos of the city. Has a range of five-element spa packages as well as just one-off facials and waxings and other treatments. Has a second outlet at 100 Xuan Dieu as well as spas in Hoi An.

sports classes Hoang Cau Sports Centre

59 Hoang Cau, Dong Da Tel: 3511 8030 The distinction of this fitness centre is that they have a large space, filled with a “number of different fields of different sizes”. Includes areas for aerobics, football and rugby. Classes depend, according to the season.

Red River Runners

www.redriverrunners.wordpress.com The Red River Runners meet every Saturday to run through the fields and suburbs skirting the Red River in Hanoi. The group organises races, such as the annual Hanoi Triathlon and the Song Hong Half Marathon, which are community events that help to add a different, more social dimension to fitness and sport in the capital.

UNIS Community Education

UN International School, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org The UN International School is located between West Lake and the highway heading to Noi Bai Airport. They have great facilities and offer a number of different classes throughout the year.

tennis Thuy Loi Sports Complex

95 Chua Boc, Dong Da A wide sports pitch that also offers a swimming pool and a football field – if you get tired of tennis. Football fields are almost always crowded, but even for tennis it might be good to go during the off hours.

Van Tue Thang Long

136 Ho Tung Mau, Tu Liem A little bit hard to find, but Van Tue Thang Long offers quite a bit of room, with a sitdown restaurant and a few tennis courts. Facilities are a bit run down, but a place to

go if you want to play tennis on concrete courts.

vietnamese classes Vietnamese Teaching Group

164 Le Thanh Nghi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 7236 9842 www.vietnameseteaching.net Offers not only Vietnamese classes, but also a variety of excursions and events that will help foreigners and expats to better understand Vietnamese culture. Organised and professional, classes are usually sold in blocks, which you pay for in advance.

Vietnam National University

B7 Bis, Bach Khoa, Dong Da Tel: 3869 4323 www.vnu.edu.vn/en This national university also offers some language and culture classes to foreigners. Teaching standards are high, and prices are not unreasonable, at around VND150,000 for a one-on-one lesson.

yoga & meditation UNESCO Yoga Center

3B Dang Thai Than, Ba Dinh Tel: 3913 5497 www.yoga.com.vn One of the only yoga studios in town exclusively devoted to the practice. Professional instruction with well-trained teachers, and a very low monthly fee.

Zenith Yoga

Floor 3, 111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0904 356561 A premier studio offering some of the best yoga, pilates and tai chi in town. Kids’ yoga, prenatal yoga and meditation are also available. Professional instruction along with a peaceful atmosphere creates one of the most zen places in Hanoi. Drop in classes are available for VND200,000 and a month unlimited class pass costs VND1.8 million.

swimming pools Army Hotel 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 2896 Four Seasons 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250 Hanoi Club 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com Horison Fitness Center 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808 Melia Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343 Olympia 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049 Sao Mai 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161 Sofitel Plaza Fitness Center 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888 Than Nhan Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park) Thang Loi Hotel 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

{ t r a v e l Notes} By Mark Bowyer

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ingapore isn’t known as a heaving hub of live rock ‘n roll, but the pristine city is taking big steps forward each year with the Rock ‘n Roots music festival, hosted for the fourth time over two nights in March. This year’s lineup included some of music history’s biggest names. Led Zeppelin front man Robert Plant put in an inspired performance of old and new tunes, looking fully reconciled with every one of his 65 years. His voice held up well despite some technical glitches at the start of the set. Plant charmed the crowd with his polished English banter between songs. One of the bad men of rock ‘n roll proved himself well reformed and showed no sign of musical fatigue. At 71, Paul Simon was the elder statesman of the lineup. His eight-piece band was assembled more for his career’s African and Reggae infused passages than his early years as a balladeer. That Simon’s set included only a handful of tunes from his most popular period playing alongside Art Garfunkel almost 50 years ago is testimony to his musical depth and innovation. Sounds of Silence (1966), was the only one of his three number one US hits to make the cut. He had the crowd of mainly middle-aged expats screaming for more, and he obliged with generous encores. Reggae pioneer Jimmy Cliff, Tedeschi Trucks Band — featuring slide guitar virtuoso Derek Trucks — and raspy blues balladeer Bonnie Raitt were also in the lineup. All proving that as a regional destination for musical entertainment, Singapore is difficult to surpass.

** Singapore Rocks * *

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Fashion

near the Temple of Literature carries contemporary looks based on traditional Vietnamese styles.

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive Contraband 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem list of our listings Tel: 3928 9891

LISTINGS

accessories & footwear 102 clothing 102 lingerie 103 shopping malls 103

sportswear 103 tailors 103 opticians & glasses 103

accessories & footwear Boo Skateshop

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3923 1147 This skateshop offers a variety of clothes, shoes and skateboarding equipment. Most of the T-shirts are made and designed in Vietnam, while the shoes and other equipment are made for export, often rejected due to minor defects. Staff is knowledgeable about Hanoi’s best skateboarding spots.

Euro Fashion Shoes

26, 84/16 Ngoc Khanh Tel: 0904153041 While you may have to dig through piles of mismatched or orthopaedic-looking shoes, this shop is full of hidden gems in larger sizes, a rare find in Hanoi.

Euro Shoes

320 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem If you’re looking for a diamond in the rough, head for Euro shoes, which has a wide selection of options, many of which you’ll want to give a pass. Often carries larger sizes than most Vietnamese retailers.

Handmade shoes

18 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 5357 This cobbler’s shop repairs shoes and makes shoes to order. The staff speaks limited English, so it’s best to bring along your favourite pair to get copied.

Huong’s Jewellery Shop

62 Hang Ngan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 1046 A small store specialising in silver necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and pendants. While Huong’s merchandise is mostly silver or pearl, the staff will also make jewellery to order.

Ipa-Nima

73 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4000 Started by Hong Kong born designer Christina Yu, Ipa-Nima’s stores are filled with their one-of-a-kind purses and accessories. Their use of colour, a unique design philosophy and hand done embellishments appeals to jetsetters and fashionistas from Los Angeles to Paris. Always eye-catching and trendy, Ipa-Nima accessories are tangibly timeless and sophisticated.

Kinh Mat Ha Thanh

2 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: 3928 6556 Large selection of lenses as well as biomedic contact lenses imported from the US. But buyer beware, lenses in Vietnam usually aren’t scratch-resistant.

London Diamond Gallery

21 Nguyen Huy Tu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4972 6327 www.londondiamondgallery.com Home to the world’s finest gemstones, master craftsmen and jewellery experts, London Diamond Gallery is among the most established jewellery houses in the world, with an international presence that spans across England, Japan, Hong Kong

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and South-East Asia.

Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

EOS Fashion and Décor

Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen. Tel: 3824 4977 This boutique offers an exclusive collection of the French designer handbags and accessories.

45 Phan Dinh Phuong, Ba Dinh Tel: 3629 78574 The limited stock in this clothing store is made up for by the unique design of the pieces, which are refreshed by the designer every month.

Three Trees

George’s Fashion Boutique

Louis Vuitton

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8725 The jewellery on offer, designed by a Belgian expat, often features chunkier gold shapes with small, well-placed diamonds. Hidden in the back of the store there is also a display case featuring less-expensive costume jewelry.

Tina Sparkle

17 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 7616 An eclectic assortment of costume jewelry and Chula dresses are scattered among a wide collection of bags by one of Vietnam’s most popular designers, Ipa-Nima. Check out the seasonal sales for heavy discounts.

Vietnam Optical

138B Giang Vo, Ba Dinh Tel: 3736 5505 This all-purpose eyewear shop offers free eye exams and a wide selection of frames. Usually there is at least one English-speaking staff present. The quick and easy service means you will be out of the store, lenses in hand, in an hour.

clothing Beo Boutique

54 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8997 www.beo.vn The answer for women who struggle with the Hanoi heat. A locally owned boutique selling simple, unfussy clothing in light and easy to wear styles, perfect for when the humidity rises. Most clothing is made from cotton or silk, but they also have felted jackets for the colder weather. As well as off the rack, do custom orders.

BOOCiti

308 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 5426 www.booskateshop.com BOOCiti is a combination of shop, cafe and office. The successor to the famous skate shops that started out from meager roots, this stylishly designed location was opened in July 2011. Stocking the Boo label BoSua and more, the space provides its customers with a ‘unique’ shopping experience.

Calvin Klein

19-21 Dinh Tien Hoang ; 61-63 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name then Calvin Klein’s lakeside store has got it pretty much sewn up. Underwear sits next to jeans going for around VND2.5 million and a range of quality CK shirts, belts and more. By Hanoi standards, prices are high, but think relative. VND5 million for an original, welltailored pigskin jacket is pretty good going.

Coco Silk

37A Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 1535 High-end silk clothing retailer located

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, el: 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-to-measure service are available at no extra cost.

Ginkgo T-Shirts

44 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem; 79 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem www.ginkgo-vietnam.com An environmentally conscious and fairtrade company that offers unique designs and a quality product, Ginkgo t-shirts sport ethnic and modern graphics in a rainbow of colors. The company began in Ho Chi Minh City and now has five outlets around Vietnam. These shirts make great gifts or souvenirs, perfect for proving to disbelievers overseas that you’ve visited the home of the conical hat.

Hanoi Silk

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 3062 www.hanoisilkvn.com Located on the ground floor of the Sofitel Plaza Hotel, this silk shop offers a highquality selection of ready-made items. The most popular sellers include robes, linensilk blend shirts, ties and jackets.

Isalyna

1 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3762 4405 www.isalyna.com The retail outlet for local designer Teddie Tran, who believes that fashion is all about “attitude”. Accordingly, the store’s pieces are mostly basics that can be combined with a range of high-quality leather accessories and jewellery for a unique fashion statement.

Kana

41 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 6208 Reasonably priced handmade silk clothing and accessories in a wide range of patterns sized to fit western bodies.

Ken Shop

108 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0256 A popular stop for silk lovers, this store is all about soft and light fabrics. Silk, cotton and silk cotton mixes in creamy summer colours or eclectic prints. Ken has a wide range on offer, from casual summer skirts to fancy dresses. A cute collection of toys made of cotton and imported jewellry and accessories are also for sale.

Kenly Silk

108 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7236 www.kenlysilk.com Instantly recognizable with its two-pillared

shop front, Kenly prides itself on professional guidance and high-quality materials from a design’s conception to finish. The shop caters to everything from fashion shows to personal designs.

Khai Silk

133 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 4237 One of the better established silk shops in Hanoi, this store also has a satellite shop in the Sofitel Metropole. With outlets throughout the country, this household name is a great place to go for ready-made silk items. You may find better deals at other shops, but with the highest quality silk, at Khai you pay for what you get.

L’Atelier

No 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3668 5509 www.ateliervietnam.com Designer store where Le Duyen Huong features her creations and matching accessories and shoes. The trendy shop exudes a pleasant and warm atmosphere and collections change often. Offers tailoring for local and export markets.

Luala Boutique

61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 9899 www.luala.vn Close to the Opera House, this “concept store” dressed up as a spacious boutique and café is aimed at the luxury, lifestylefocused end of the local market. Has clothing and accessories for men and women and stocks the likes of Vera Wang, Nina Ricci, Elie Saab, Paul & Joe and much more. Also slated to show contemporary Vietnamese art. Check out their website for latest arrivals and their full range of brands.

Magoon

19 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 9 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem A small fashion house with many outlets around the city, Magoon offers one-of-akind lady like fashions. They have a bit of everything from jackets and dresses to knitwear. The prices are affordable and the merchandise changes often. The main studio is on Au Trieu.

Marie-Linh Couture

11 Nha To, Hoan Kiem 74 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Parisian-style clothing combined with quality Vietnamese dressmaking skills. The beautiful clothes are available in silk, organza and linen. Also available for online orders. With the accompanying home décor and accessories shop on 38 Hang Trong, it is possible to live an entire life of couture.

Metiseko

40-42 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem www.metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

Moon

111 Ma May, Hoan Kiem This small shop carries handmade embroidered linen and silk clothes that are usually less expensive than those found at the larger stores. The shop owners make most of the clothes themselves, so they will adjust designs to fit personal tastes.

Nagu

20 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem www.zantoc.com Walk past the rows of teddy bears and head for the small rack of clothing, which

offers unique Japanese-designed dresses and shirts. The second floor has a selection of home goods. There is a loyalty program for frequent customers.

The three-storey shop offers everything from clothes and hand-embroidered baby pillows to sumptuous silk bedding.

Nuna Nunong

61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1154 800sqm of elegant, modern space that offers one-of-a-kind pieces to add to your home furnishings or wardrobe. Located across the street from the other Tan My, one of the oldest silk and embroidery stores in Hanoi.

100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Racks of flowery frocks line the walls, and handmade fabric garlands hang from the ceiling. You will also find a wide selection of handmade goods, such as hand-painted mugs, totes and baskets of increasingly popular animal pillows.

Pure Heaven

55 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6290 If the classic storefront doesn’t draw you in, the clothing will. The Scandinavian showroom is clean and streamlined, emulating the modern but simple clothing contained within. Cottons and knitwear are the main focus in the European designed clothing for women and children. Prices are affordable and the quality is great.

Song

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 6965 This boutique, whose name comes from the Vietnamese word for “life”, stocks high-end linen and silk clothes in a serene store awash with the fresh scent of mint. Located just across the street from the cathedral, prices are on par with its higher-end neighbours.

Tan My

66 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1579 www.tanmyembroidery.com.vn Located in the heart of the old quarter, on “silk street”, Tan My claims to be Hanoi’s oldest silk and embroidery shop and boasts customers like Hillary Clinton.

Supermarkets Big C Supermarket 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay Citimart Hanoi Towers 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

Tan My Design

Things of Substance

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

Runway

13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 6260 www.runway.vn The second branch of the flagship store located in Ho Chi Minh City, Runway sells only authentic designer collections from all over the world. The large store located in the Sun City Building mimics what a designer boutique should look like, with an all white interior. If you are in need of a designer fix, Runway is your answer, but be warned, the prices match the labels.

Sole 21

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1968 A distinctly designed boutique around the corner from the cathedral, bringing the latest from European and American Designers. Think Jimmy Choo, Kate Spade and Top Shop. Mark-up seems high on some pieces, but all designers are authentic. No fakes here.

Vinatex

25 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem In-town factory outlet for the Vinatex clothing corp. Carries items for men, women and children at low prices.

lingerie Ana Mai

Citimart Vincom Towers 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho This small boutique stocks lingerie similar to Parisian designers Agent Provocateur and Cosabella.

Fivimart 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart.com.vn

Aubade

52 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3822 9051 Pretty, lacy underwear imported from France. Carries mostly small sizes, up to a western sized medium.

Minoshe

59 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem This popular store carries a wide range of bras and underwear. Additional locations in Hanoi Towers and Vincom Towers.

shopping malls Hanoi Star Supermarket 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da Intimex 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da Metro 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

Hang Da Galleria

Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 9999 This small shopping mall is conveniently located in the centre of the Old Quarter, with all the standard small stores as well as a range of boutiques selling the wares of Vietnamese designers. The Highlands outdoor café is a perfect place to sit and watch the Old Quarter ebb and flow.

Hanoi Towers

49 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem The retail space on the first floor of this complex includes everything from a golf shop to a hair salon. After shopping you can enjoy a cup of coffee at the Highlands Café or a sandwich at Papa Joe’s.

Ocean Park Luxury Mall

36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0737 Shopping mall includes international designers such as Versace collection, Dolce and Gabbana, and Roberto Botticelli.

Parkson

Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da www.parkson.com This Malaysian-owned department store prides itself on making the shopping experience one that is “more exciting and fun”. Unlike many of Hanoi’s retailers, this megastore is also appealing to those who just want to browse. Departments include men’s, women’s and children’s clothing as well as home furnishings.

Pico Mall

299 Tay Son, Dong Da Newly renovated mall housing international stores like French Connection, Nike, and Adidas. A touch far from the centre, but distance brings lower levels of noise and customers, making it a nice option for shopping spree. Also has a movie theatre, a Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf and a food court.

Trang Tien Plaza

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This large shopping centre located at the southern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake includes shopping options for every price range. Bargain bins full of locally-produced clothing stand beside a Nike retail outlet. Offerings also include a cosmetics department and multiple electronics retailers.

Vincom Towers

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 9999 A shopping plaza offering a range of international brands such as Levi’s, United Colours of Benetton, Nike, Adidas and Geox.

sportswear Adidas

83 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel:3828 7190 www.adidas.com The capital city’s flagship store of the international retailer of sport clothing and equipment.

B.Ball

65A Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da Tel:3224 10780 bball.com.vn This hoops-themed store sells balls, basketball shoes and jerseys of the madein-China variety.

Hanoi Club Golf Shop

at the course.

tailors Cao Minh Tailors

250 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3939 3594 www.caominh.com Located near Cua Nam street at the westernmost end of Hang Bong, this established tailor with over 50 years of experience specialises in quality materials from Italy and England. The go-to place for top-of-therange suits and shirts for all occasions. The shop is new and the service spot on.

18 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 9925 Though this tailor offers both men’s and women’s clothing, the well made dresses displayed in the window and the range of bright colours and patterns caters mostly to female tastes. Located in the shadow of the cathedral, it’s a little pricier, but you pay for the view.

Ngoc Shop

64 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3943 4747 This English-speaking tailor located near the fabric market off Pho Hue offers a seasonal collection of ready-made designs. The owner will also copy clothing or sew from your own designs. Fabric can be picked out in the shop or you can bring your own.

Ms Tam

Tel: 0989 098903 With a long list of foreign clientele, Ms Tam works from her home not too far outside of central Hanoi. She will pay a visit to where you live to take measurements and then bring the final clothes back a few days later. She also carries a book of fabric swatches for those who truly want to skip the shopping experience.

Phuong Linh Tailor

99 Son Tay, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 083674 Exceptional quality at very reasonable prices, Phuong Linh may not speak English but her and her team make every effort to understand the task at hand. From copying your favourite garments to creating something new or from a magazine, Phuong and her girls succeed in getting it right time and time again.

Thanh Ha

114 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Located in the heart of the old quarter, this tailor caters mostly to tourists, but a large collection of Vogue pattern books makes communication very easy.

Opticians & Glasses Sunglasses Street

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com A small shop on the first floor of the Hanoi Club sells a range of equipment to fulfill your golfing needs, including clubs, balls and clothes.

Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name, well here its all in a number — two of them in fact, 51 & 58. Not exactly conventional opticians — the rows of shops here do sell frames with lenses and have basic eye-testing services — but if its sunglasses with brand names super-glued on top, here is the place.

Nike

Thu Ha Kinh Thuoc

Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung www.nike.com With multiple locations open, and more to come, Nike retails high-end sports clothing and accessories, including yoga mats and water bottles.

Tolia

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Also known as the “Russian shop”, Tolia retails overstock outdoor wear made for export. Brands include Jack Wolfskin, The North Face and Patagonia.

Zone Golf

Hanoi Towers, 49 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3936 3233 This centrally-located shop carries all the equipment and gear you need for a day

134 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3943 4570 Free eye testing in this well-known, German-trained opticians that also doubles up as a medical clinic and pharmacy specialising in eye problems. Sells a range of branded and no n-branded spectacles and sunglasses. Located opposite the National Hospital of Ophthalmology.

VietnamOptical

48 Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung & 231 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 3736 5505 www.kinhmatvietnam.com.vn Chain of opticians, glasses and sunglasses stores selling a range of branded and Chinese-imported frames starting at VND100,000 a go and rising to over VND2 million. The in-store optometrist gives free eye tests. Helpful, English-speaking staff.

April 2013 Word | 103

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LISTINGS bakeries 104 crafts 104 furniture 104 groceries 104 Kitchen Products 105

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings liquor & wine 105 markets 105 pets 105

bakeries Donkey Bakery

8 Nguyen Hoang Ton, Tay Ho www.donkey-donuts.com Founded as a donut shop, it now also offers a wide range of German-inspired breads for those who favour nutrition over sugar. A loaf of rye bread rings in at VND40,000. Donuts, breads, cookies and sandwiches can be ordered online and delivered to your home or office. The bakery employs mostly disabled persons and is dedicated to providing them with high-quality training and care.

Kinh Do

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem One of the oldest and most wellestablished bakeries in the city, maybe best known as Catherine Deneuve’s former haunt, Kinh Do has been around much longer than any expat. But their breads, pastries and quiches keep foreigners and Vietnamese coming back. Extensive Western and Vietnamese menu as well.

Le Croissant

21 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3943 6707 www.hoasuaschool.com A well established and well respected Hanoi institution. Le Croissant not only makes excellent baked goods of all kinds, but is also part of the NGO Hoa Sua, a school for disadvantaged children that teaches them life changing skills.

Paris Deli

6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 6697 With two locations, one by the Opera House and the other by St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Paris Deli makes a good job of their breads, tarts and pastries. Both are sit-down restaurants, but are happy to sell you their baked goods over the counter, to go.

Thu Huong Bakery

35C Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3868 A small but popular Vietnamese-style bakery selling all types of sweets and cakes, luxuriously decorated. They also sell baguettes and sliced breads. They also deliver.

crafts Craftlink

43 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: 3843 7710 www.craftlink.com.vn This non-profit organisation helps traditional artisans seek new markets. for sale in the retail space include handmade textiles from the northern provinces.

Indigenous

36 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0977 799911 Run by a local NGO, the Indigenous handicraft and coffee shop brings to market a decorative collection, developed with fair trade principles, showcasing the crafts and cultures of Vietnam's ethnic minority and indigenous artisans.

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Marie Linh Home Decor

38 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0436 www.marie-linh-design.com This newly-opened shop sells specially designed decorative objects in traditional Vietnamese lacquer and pottery in unique styles. It also retails small accessories that are easy to pack in your suitcase. Items are sold in the shop and online.

Mekong Quilts

58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem; 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0473063682 Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

furniture Bamboo Furniture Corner

Cnr. Quang Trung & Tran Nhan Trong, Hai Ba Trung This cluster of furniture shops offer lowpriced bamboo products from baskets and desks to drawers.

Bellizeno

130D Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3825 1343 The factory location of the Bellizeno bedding company includes a retail space for their high thread count sheets and bedding.

Carpet Street

There are a number of made-to-order carpet and rug stores along Kim Ma from roughly number 239 to 299.

Chi Vang

63 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3936 0601 Located near the lake, this store offers a wide range of embroidered bedding and tablecloths. Items can be purchased in the store or hand-embroidered to order.

Cotyledon

1A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 7887 This shop stocks high-end duvet and cushion covers, quilts and tableware like runners and placemats.

Darling Hanoi

Tel: 01282 273717 info@darlinghanoi.com www.darlinghanoi.com Photowalls and Wallpaper of the highest quality. Create a photowall from your own image or choose an image from their large online catalogue. Inspiring and unique wall décor for private homes, offices and reception areas, hotel rooms and foyers, restaurants and bars. PVC-free, UV-resistant and moisture-resistant, all the paper is made in Sweden and shipped free within Hanoi.

Dome

10 Yen The, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3843 6036 www.dome.com.vn Internationally run furniture store with

three large outlets in Hanoi. They offer ‘affordable luxury’ goods such as pillows, bed linens and other home wears, in addition to making custom furniture.

industry, each branch sells trendy furniture for modern living as well as interior design for all types Vietnamese houses.

European IKEA Shop

Van Loi

35 Ngo Thanh Mie, Dong Da This tiny shop carries a small collection of IKEA brand furniture, but can order more from the catalogue.

Grand Bois

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This high-end wooden furniture store located on the first floor of Hanoi Towers has offered best-selling designs for a decade. The classic pieces are mostly constructed out of dark wood and are complemented with cream-coloured linen lampshades and cushions.

Hanoi Moment

101 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 7170 This shop makes sifting through lacquer kitchenware and accessories easy. While its stock may not differ from the stores next door, the display is less overwhelming.

La Casa

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 4084 www.lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

Mai Long

71 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 5393 This shop sells material for curtains and window blinds. They make house calls to measure and install.

Maroon

156 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 7264 Nestled in the heart of the old quarter, Maroon sells accent pieces to brighten up any household: lacquer picture frames, lamps, and silk bedding.

Metiseko

Module 7

83 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 7247 www.module7design.com Open since 2002, this interior design firm and home store creates modern and simple collections. They use local materials and traditional craftsmanship for a cool mix of contemporary Vietnamese living spaces. Their showroom showcases floor to ceiling windows, which allows for a bright open design centre.

Mosaique Boutique

22 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 6181 www.mosaiquedecoration.com Hard to miss, this bright green boutique blends Vietnamese traditionalism with modern flair. The result is a shop selling intricate lamps, lacquers and fun home wears. Handmade jewellery and crafts are also scattered around the store.

UMA

CT 6 My Dinh, Tu Liem; 147 Doi Can, Ba Dinh; 210 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3972 7412 www.uma.vn Designers and retailers within the interior

87 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 6758 www.vanloi.com This store is an impressive mix of fusionwestern furniture and home accessories. All furniture is hand crafted by artisans meaning top-end quality, but with price tags to match.

Velvet Underground

Tel: 3716 0400 www.velvetunderground.biz This shop offers a range of ready made items, from bedding to hot water bottle covers as well as the option of designing your own item from a choice of fabrics. The friendly and helpful English-speaking staff make shopping a pleasure instead of a chore.

groceries Au Delice

3 The Giao, Ha Ba Trung, Tel: 3972 0584 www.au-delice-online.com A European style deli and grocery store with all sorts of imported products for your dinner parties or a homesick night in. Their claim is to have the best selection of cheeses in Hanoi.

Betterday

100 A Xuan Dieu, Tel: 4258 3511 www.betterday.com.vn Hanoi’s speciality organic shop has a small stock of locally grown products including coffee, tea, cashews, a range of spices and beauty products produced in Sapa. Better Day Organics products are also available at the following stores: L’s Place, Oasis and Donkey Donuts

Classic Fine Foods

19/298 Ngoc Lam, Gia Lam, Tel: 3873 6079 www.classicfinefoods.com The place to go for imported foods such as foie gras, high-quality meats, pastas and dairy products. Although they specialise in the wholesale market, they occasionally do retail sales.

Hung Long Minimart

71B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 6220 This little store around Westlake has the feeling of one of those small ethnic markets you find in London or New York, but the ethnicity is Western. Reasonably priced canned foods, potato chips, cookies and other snacks that may be difficult to find elsewhere in the city.

L’s Place

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho; 34 A Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem Cramped and crammed to the bursting point with imported food products, making your way around the maze that is L’s Place can often be a tight affair, but it’s worth it. The canned and packaged goods together with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and more can provide the dietary solution for anyone craving for a change from pho ga or bun cha.

Naturally Vietnam

So 4, Ngo 67, Ngach 67/12 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.naturallyvietnam.com Owned by ASVELIS, Naturally Vietnam is the first and only food shop in Hanoi offering free-range poultry products with a sanitary quality in compliance with Vietnamese norms and close to the international standards of the World Organisation for Animal Health (OIE) and the Codex Alimentarius Commission (CODEX). Also has a wide range of organic, safe vegetables, and many other traceable food products made in Vietnam.

Electronics Cameras A Dong Photo Co 128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0732 This camera shop retails a wide range of cameras, including both analogue and DSLR models, as well as film and accessories like flashes and lenses. Alpha Laptop 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418 This laptop retail and repair shop also carries camera accessories and cases. Fuong May Anh 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568 This small store has a wide selection of Viet Nam-produced Pentax cameras. Also has a selection of imported lenses. Nguyen Cau 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem This camera shop overlooking the lake develops both digital and film prints. Services include photo mounting and passport photos. Computers and Electronics DK Computer 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772 This large electronics retailer deals in computers, printers, as well as external storage devices. Hi-Tech USA 23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 6261 A small, but good all-around electronics store, selling all kinds of electronics. Speakers, I-Pods, headphones, cables and phone accessories. Many name-brands. Pico Plaza 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This is a super-sized electronics shop with each floor devoted to a specific kind of electronics. You’ll be able to find pretty much anything you’re looking for here, from a phone to a computer to a washing machine. Professional Computer Care and IT Services No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0983 011081 This service company can help with a just about any computerrelated task. Computer repairs, set up, Wi-Fi, design, networking and development. On-site and off-site service, and free quotes. Vietsad 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771 Located on bustling “computer street”, this shop offers a range of computer accessories including keyboards and USB drives. They also do computer and laptop repair.

Punto Italia

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 6258 3510 www.puntoitalia.asia Punto Italia is an authentic Italian supplier importing the finest espresso coffee as well as Italian coffee machines for professional, home and office use. Real Italian granita, ice-cream and much more is now available in Vietnam with the support of a professional and friendly service.

Rock Candy

28 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 6492 9597 Rockcandy.com.vn If you have a sweet tooth this store was made for you. Near the corner of Ly Quoc Su, Rock Candy specializes in the obvious, traditional rock candy. You can sample before you buy, and Rock Candy is available for weddings, private and corporate functions.

Veggie’s

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 4719 4630 International grocer at the end of Xuan Dieu, Veggie’s remains one of the best suppliers of western foods in the city. Stock includes organic granola bars, frozen corn dogs and shelves full of cereal. When searching for baking supplies, this store is your best bet. Also, due to having their own farm in Dalat, sell some of the best locally grown non-standard vegetables in town.

Vine Cellar Door

7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

The Oasis

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

Yuki’s

54 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6192 New on the scene, this grocer on Xuan Dieu has a large selection of fruits and seafood downstairs. Upstairs is reserved for a grocery store carrying western goods.

Kitchen Products Kitchen Art

38/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 6680 2770 www.kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

Punto Italia

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 3510 info@puntoitalia.asia www.puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

markets

liquor & wine Bacchus Corner

1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

Da Loc

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 1325 This wine importer and distributor has over 250 different types of wine in its portfolio and is doing its part to bring a culture of fine wine to Hanoi. The main office and showroom is on Hai Ba Trung and an upscale outlet is located within the grounds of the Mercure Hanoi hotel on Ly Thoung Kiet.

Hanoi Gourmet

1B Ham Long, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3943 1009 Not just a wine shop, the long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

Pane E Vino Wine Shop

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

Red Apron

18 Yen The Tel: 3747 4889 15a Ngo Van So Tel: 3943 7226 28 Xuan Dieu Tel: 3719 8337 #6, Lane 1, Au Co Tel: 3718 6271 Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu Tel: 3823 8749 The retail face of wine distributor Celliers d’Asia, this small wine shop is in the French Quarter, adjacent to the Metropole. The focus here is on quality and the portfolio ranges from French to Chilean to the barrage of wines coming from Down Under. Delivery service available.

Cho Hom

Corner of Pho Hue and Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung One of the best places in the city to buy fabrics. Found a tailor, want to make clothes? Here you’ll find everything you need, stuff imported and domestic, silk, cotton, linen. Also any sewing materials you might need can be found here.

Cho Sinh Vien

Xuan Thuy and Pham Hung, Cau Giay The Student Market, across from Hanoi National University, caters to students. Mostly durable goods, clothing and accessories here. As far as style and size of clothes, selection is a bit limited, but if you take your time you may find something worth the trouble. The market, as well as the food stalls surrounding it, are open quite late. Prices are also tailored for the student budget.

Dong Xuan

Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem The biggest market of it’s kind in Hanoi, Dong Xuan is filled with pretty much any durable good you can think of: from jeans to jewelry, from leaf tea to livestock. The indoor market spills out onto the streets, which can also serve a good place to get a meal pretty much any time.

Flower Market

Au Co, East Side of Street The name can be a little deceptive, since it’s more of a distribution point, where flowers come in to vendors all over the city. Of course you can buy directly from sellers here at a good price, provided you’re up late enoug`h. The other reason to come is for the pho stands. The market begins late at night and continues well past dawn.

Tay Ho Weekend Market

So 4, Ngo 67, Ngach 67/12 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.weekendmarket.org Set up in March 2010 and organised by ASVELIS, a French-Vietnamese company specialised in the provision of services for sustainable livestock development, animal health and food safety, around 20 retailers sell traceable food and beverages every Saturday morning to hundreds of Vietnamese and foreign visitors. In addition to food and beverages, visitors can also find various non-food items such as handicrafts, books, clothes and jewellery.

pets ASVELIS Veterinary Hospital

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0439 287666 www.warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam's ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

So 4, Ngo 67, Ngach 67/12 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5475 www.asvelis.com Founded by a French–Vietnamese couple who love taking care of companion animals, the ASVELIS Veterinary Hospital has developed from a small clinic into a hospital. In addition to dental care and basic laboratory test equipment, the pet hospital also offers boarding services, which are located in a pet-friendly environment in Soc Son, 10 minutes from Noi Bai airport.

Vine Cellar Door

City Zoo

THE WAREHOUSE

7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

114A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 6660 7749 www.cityzoo.vn Hanoi pet lovers take notice. A real pet store selling all your pet needs exists. City Zoo caters to dogs, cats, birds and fish. Dog beds line the walls at this small shop which also offers a range of imported pet food, accessories like collars and pet toys. You can even pick up a hamster while you’re here. Delivery is available on pet food.

April 2013 Word | 105

Medical

fast service.

visit wordhanoi.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

LISTINGS alternative medicine 106 cosmetics 106 counselling 106 cosmetic surgery 106 dental 106

medical 106 pharmacies 106 supplements 106 Vets 106 COLUMN: ask douglas 107

alternative medicine Dr. Tran Huong 80 Ngo Nui Truc, Ba Dinh Tel: 0913 540907 www.drhuong.tk Dr. Tran Huong is well-known in Hanoi thanks to his long experience as both a practitioner of traditional Chinese and Western medicine. The clinic treats severe and chronic pain with a variety of drug-free methods, including acupuncture, acupressure, cupping and moxibustion.

Yakushi Center Lane 28, No 6, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1971 The centre offers such services as acupuncture, massage and traditional Chinese medicine. One of their specialties is the hot rock massage. Run by Dr. Thuy, a qualified practitioner, the Yakushi Center has a clean and relaxing environment and takes a holistic approach to health, designed to take care of both body and mind.

cosmetics Parkson Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da One of the newer malls in the city, Malaysian-owned Parkson offers international name brand cosmetics. For those days when you feel like treating yourself, do your shopping in a real mall atmosphere.

Trang Tien Plaza 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Stop here for everything from moisturizer to lipstick before heading upstairs to continue the shopping trip. Keep in mind, imported cosmetics don’t come cheap.

counselling International SOS Vietnam, Ltd. 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 www.internationalsos.com In addition to emergency healthcare, the clinic also offers consultations by in-house specialists, full counselling and psychotherapy services. Call to make an appointment.

Family Medical Practice Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3843 0748 (24 hours) www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice provides

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psychotherapy and nutrition counselling services by in-house specialists. For more information or to book an appointment, please call the clinic.

cosmetic surgery New Life Clinic 6 Nguyen Thi Thap, Khu do thi moi Trung Hoa, Nhan Chinh Tel: 6261 6166 www.newlifevietnam.comA small clinic that offers cosmetic dental work, skin treatments and minor cosmetic surgery. The on site doctor, Ms. Ha, was trained at the University of Southern California.

dental Australian Dental Clinic 3 Nguyen Du, Dong Da Tel: 3944 5216 www.nhahoaucchau.com A clinic with modern facilities and internationally trained dentists. The prices here are more than competitive than the other international dental clinics in town.

Hong Ngoc Hospital 95 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh Tel: 3716 3972 The dental practice is located on the first floor of this well-organised health clinic. The waiting time is short and the doctors competent.

One Dental No 8, Lane 27, Xuan Dieu,Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168 Providing quality dentistry in calm, relaxing environment it has an attentive and experienced mixed foreign and Vietnamese dental team who are there at all times to assist with any concerns.

Peace Dental Clinic 51a Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2286 www.peaceclinic.biz Established in 2001, it is run by an American dentist named Frederick. The clinic has a number of dentists trained in such places as Japan, Denmark and the Czech Republic – so the doctors are also fluent in many languages.

International SOS 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 24-hour emergency service with pricey, but international quality emergency and routine dental services. If your wisdom tooth needs pulling in the middle of the night, or you break a tooth, there are competent doctors and

pharmacies

One Dental Clinic No 8, Alley 27, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168 www.onedentalvietnam.com Providing clients with the best in dentistry, the international standard One Dental also creates a calm environment where customers can enjoy their dental experience. Using the latest technology, the One Dental team is there all the time to assist customers with any questions they may have.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi Tel: 3710 0555 www.westcoastinternational The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

medical Family Medical Practice 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3843 0748 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FMP Pediatric Unit Van Phuc Compound, 298 D Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 5222 fmpkidshanoi@vietnammedicalpractice. com The Pediatric Unit of the Family Medical Practice Hanoi provides routine newborn and well-child checkups, updated immunizations and vaccinations, out-patient treatment and follow-up. FMP’s pediatric specialists provide professional consultancy from infancy to adolescence.

French Hospital 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da Tel: 3577 1100 The first international hospital created in Hanoi, and still viewed by some as the gold standard for medical treatment. Offering everything from standard medical and preventative care to surgical procedures. Full-service hospital that has both doctors and staff speaking good French and English.

International SOS 24-hour Clinic 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

H Clinic 24T 1 Hoang Dao Thuy, Cau Giay Tel: 6251 2835 A clinic with a very large pharmacy that can fill pretty much any prescription you get in Hanoi. They also offer minor medical consultations.

Nha Thua Vinh Phuc 625 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh While it appears to be your basic street pharmacy, this small shop front stocks some hard-to-find medicine.

supplements Amevita Supplements Tel: 3759 2515 www.amevita.com.vn Sells high quality vitamins and supplements imported from the USA including multivitamins, probiotics, joint care, herbals, fitness and antiaging products. Free delivery in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Available online and at select retailers.

Ultimate Nutrition Hotline: 0917 295091 www.allsportvietnam.com Protein supplements, high quality vitamins, testosterone, muscle gain and fat loss supplements for those looking for professional sports nutrition to help their exercise or training regime. Call the hotline for free delivery to your home or office.

Vets Animal Care 16 ngo 424 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 2246 1946 / 0978 776099 www.phongkhamthuy.com Locally-run clinic specialising in treating cats and dogs as well as providing a range of pet-care accessories, from animal food to clothing, toys and much more.

Asian Veterinary & Livestock Services (ASVELIS) 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3178 2779 www.asvelis.com English, French and Vietnamesespeaking veterinarian providing a range of medical services as well as grooming, boarding and certification for pet import and export. Also sells a range of pets toys as well as other products.

Dr. Bao, Mobile Veterinarian Tel: 0903 223217, vetdoctorvn@yahoo. com On-call, English-speaking veterinarian who does the rounds in Hanoi. Well-respected, knowledgeable and, according to the feedback, very funny.

International Laboratory & Veterinary Services 31 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho District Tel: 3719 9994 www.vetsinvietnam.com A Vietnamese-owned small-animal veterinary clinic with English-speaking vets. Offers a range of healthcare and laboratory services as well as products for all animal needs. Products can be ordered online.

{ the Therapist }

{ the Alchamist}

** Letters on Life * *

** Stargazing * *

Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, answers your questions and offers advice Dear Douglas, I am a 28-year-old German girl and have been living abroad for three years. My job is OK and I like Hanoi but I am tired of seeing people coming and going. When I came I thought it would be for a year, but now the idea of moving back home to Germany sounds really bad. I feel confused and like I am coasting into the future without a plan. My friends at home are all getting into careers or are getting married and having babies while I can’t see beyond the weekend at Hanoi Rock City. Whenever I try to think about the future I freeze and light up another cigarette. Should I stay or should I go? Future-phobic

Dear Future-phobic, Thanks for sharing a problem that many people struggle with. The uncertainty of the future is causing you fear and stress. You feel the need to have a plan and decide if you want the same things your friends are doing. Because you are not clear you find yourself avoiding the question and appeasing the anxiety it creates with cigarettes or going out. Little did you know that when you left home that you would come to see things differently, and you would feel confused about what you want and what you should do. It is not uncommon for expats to feel both enjoyment and adventure while living abroad and the turmoil that comes when they see how it changes their outlook. My advice is to shift from concern about the future to how it is you are dealing with the stress and emotions that you are experiencing day to day. We

all have coping mechanisms to help us deal with the discomfort of anxiety and stress. Some of them are meant to provide relief and to escape painful feelings and some are ways that we help ourselves to feel better. Some coping mechanisms simply delay the problem, even exacerbate it, and some coping mechanisms move us towards a better state of mind where we are more likely to see clearly what our best options are. Decisions seem to flow more naturally when we are at ease with ourselves and seeing through a lens of optimism that comes from feeling ‘reasonably’ well in the present. Let go of the big decision and focus on the small decisions you make every day. What gives you true enjoyment? What makes you feel good about yourself? What does it mean to you to feel healthy, relaxed, interested in life? It is possible that you are also carrying ‘unfinished business’ from your past. Reflecting and resolving issues from the past can also liberate us all to be more alive in the present which leads us to trust our intuitions to guide us into our future. Maybe you would find that facing these feelings would be easier with the support of a therapist or committed friend. We always feel better when we realise we are not in it alone. Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@ hotmail.com Personal details will not be printed.

Photo by: bulliver

Karen Gay, holistic health practitioner, introduces her new column and talks about astrology and the connections between us and the universe

ast summer, when I was home for the holidays, I went looking for a book on the planets. I wanted to learn more about how the planets affect our day-to-day lives. For example, could the phenomenon known as ‘Mercury in Retrograde’ really be as disruptive as I had heard? Not knowing quite how to describe what it was I was looking for, all I could explain to the sales person was that I wasn't looking for books on horoscopes. I was directed to the astronomy section. There I found highly scientific books, some with beautiful pictures of the planets in our galaxy and beyond. But while the size, shape and color of all the planets were all fascinating, this wasn't what I was looking for either. When it comes to describing the planets and the zodiacs, or life itself for that matter, one can approach the subject from a scientific point of view or from a metaphysical standpoint. So when I was in the bookshop’s astronomy section, I really should have been in the astrology section where information on the metaphysical aspects of the planets can be found.

To the Cosmos and Back Over the last few years I’ve discovered that there is much more to our world than meets the eye. Through this column, I

will attempt to share some of the magic of our universe, aspects that I have discovered and am still exploring. For example, we’ve just come to the end of a full precession of the zodiac, an approximate 25,800-year cycle. What does this mean in terms of our own planetary evolution? As a holistic health practitioner, I’ll be addressing the four dimensions of life: the physical, mental, emotional and spiritual, looking at how these dimensions are more interconnected than we often realise. I’ll venture into the cosmos and make connections between the planets and our own lives here on Earth. So, please check this spot for esoteric but informative pieces on our multi-dimensional lives and our inter-relatedness to each other and our universe.

New Beginnings One obvious connection we have to our universe is the seasonal shifts. Here in the northern hemisphere we’ve just passed the spring or vernal equinox, the astrological start of the year and the symbol of rebirth and new beginnings. With the symbolism of new beginnings, this new column, will hopefully provide an alternative perspective on life; one that will leave you enlightened and intrigued — just as I have been, ever since venturing onto the metaphysical path.

April 2013 Word | 107

Tiêng viêt những gương mặt hà nội - họa sĩ kể chuyện đời

Họa sĩ kể chuyện đời Từ lịch sử gia đình, cho tới những phố phường của Hà Nội, tất cả đều có ảnh hưởng không nhỏ tới những sáng tác của họa sỹ Nguyễn Thế Sơn. Bài viết bởi Hoa Lê. Ảnh bởi Francis Roux

ã bao giờ bạn thử tưởng tượng điều gì sẽ xảy ra nếu những chiếc xe Honda đang vi vu tràn ngập đường phố Hà Nội được mang ra khỏi thủ đô, và trở về trên đường phố Nhật Bản, nơi chúng vốn được sinh ra? Khi đó bạn có nhớ chúng không? Hay là bạn thầm cảm ơn những con phố giờ đã được bình yên? “Làm cách nào để trả chiếc Honda về Nhật Bản” là một dự án sắp đặt mà họa sỹ, nghệ sỹ nhiếp ảnh nghệ thuật Nguyễn Thế Sơn đang ấp ủ. Ý tưởng của anh là làm ra những mô hình phoocmic người đi xe máy ở Hà Nội, phóng to theo tỉ lệ thật, và đặt chúng trên những con phố Nhật Bản. Sự tương tác của những mô hình người Việt trên chiếc xe của họ với người dân Nhật sau đó sẽ được chụp ảnh lại. Ý tưởng mang thông điệp đáng suy nghĩ này chỉ là một trong rất nhiều dự án của người nghệ sỹ trẻ sinh ra và lớn lên tại Hà Nội này. Thông qua nghệ thuật, anh kể những câu chuyện về tự nhiên, về xã hội, và có đôi khi, về cuộc đời anh.

Những câu chuyện lịch sử và gia đình

Trong triển lãm gần đây nhất “Nhà Mặt Phố” tại viện Geothe Hà Nội vào tháng 3 năm ngoái, Sơn khắc họa những con phố được khoác lên mình những trang phục rực rỡ nhờ các tấm biển quảng cáo quá khổ, những ánh đèn bảng hiệu lấp lánh và những khẩu hiệu nổi bật. Thông qua các tác

108 | Word April 2013

phẩm ba chiều này, Sơn muốn người xem suy nghĩ về những mặt sau của vẻ bề ngoài hiện đại của thành phố. Những ngôi nhà trên những con phố lớn thường đáng giá cả một gia tài, nay được biến thành những cửa hàng cửa hiệu mang lại lợi nhuận lớn cho những người chủ của chúng. Nhưng còn lịch sử của những ngôi nhà đó thì sao? Trước đây chúng như thế nào? Liệu có phải một số trong đó đã từng là những ngôi biệt thự Pháp cổ đẹp, nay được cải tạo để phù hợp với xu hướng mới cho phép chúng khai thác triệt để lợi thế mặt phố và mang về lợi nhuận? Họa sỹ Thế Sơn sinh năm 1978 trong một gia đình tư sản, ông nội anh trước đây là chủ một nhà máy sản xuất xà phòng trong thời Pháp thuộc. Có giai đoạn ông làm ăn phát đạt và sở hữu một cơ số nhà mặt tiền trên phố. Sau đó, dưới thời kỳ cải cách ruộng đất, gia đình Sơn được yêu cầu nhượng lại những ngôi nhà đó cho nhà nước. “Đó là một nỗi đau đối với bố tôi khi gia đình mất đi mọi thứ,” Sơn nói. “Nhưng khi bạn nghĩ về nó, bạn sẽ thấy có biết bao nhiêu ngôi nhà trong thành phố này mang trong mình những câu chuyện về lịch sử thú vị.” Qua tác phẩm “Nhà Mặt Phố”, Sơn cũng muốn sẻ chia một phần câu chuyện của gia đình mình. Trong những tấm biển quảng cáo treo trên những ngôi nhà trong tác phẩm của Sơn là những khẩu hiệu bắt mắt mà chúng ta nhìn thấy mỗi ngày trên phố. ‘Khẳng định cá tính’, ‘Mỗi ngày một

khuôn mặt mới’, ‘Vẻ đẹp thuần khiết’, hay ‘Phong cách châu Âu’. Đối với người họa sỹ này, các khẩu hiệu quảng cáo đó xuất hiện liên tiếp nhau như một bài thơ không có hồi kết trong dòng chảy của cuộc sống đương đại. “Bài thơ ảo tưởng đó cũng giống như những ước vọng của con người mong muốn có được vẻ đẹp vĩnh cửu và một cuộc sống dài lâu. Chúng ta đều biết rằng đó là điều không thể, nhưng vẫn muốn tin nó sẽ trở thành sự thật.”

Niềm đam mê nghệ thuật đương đại

Sơn không chỉ dừng lại ở việc dùng những kỹ thuật vẽ anh học được trong những năm tháng tại trường đại học. Hiện nay, anh đã phát triển theo con đường thử nghiệm hơn, bằng việc kết hợp nghệ thuật sắp đặt, nhiếp ảnh, và đôi khi cả kỹ thuật sắp đặt ánh sáng sân khấu. Trên thế giới, nghệ thuật đương đại đã nhen nhóm từ đầu thế kỷ 20 và trở thành trào lưu lớn vào những năm 1950, cùng khoảng thời gian khi chiến tranh lạnh bắt đầu và những câu hỏi hoài nghi được đặt ra với những giá trị triết lý, cuộc sống, chính trị, và tất nhiên cả nghệ thuật của quá khứ. Còn ở Việt Nam, đó là khoảng thời gian chiến tranh nối tiếp chiến tranh, nghệ thuật được phát triển chủ yếu để phục vụ mục đích chiến đấu. Cho tới năm 1975, khi các cuộc chiến đã chính thức kết thúc, Việt Nam bắt đầu bước những bước đi chậm rãi và cẩn trọng trong công cuộc phục hồi và tái xây dựng xã hội. Những tư

“Những họa sỹ đã đi ra nước ngoài học và trở về như mình thường cảm thấy bị “kênh”, vì nhiều thứ mình đã được học và tiếp xúc thì hiện ở Việt Nam chưa được công nhận.” “Mọi người rồi dần hiểu và chấp nhận nó. Cũng giống như mối quan hệ của mình và bố mình vậy.” tưởng và trào lưu của thế giới được giới thiệu một cách chọn lọc kỹ càng. Những dấu tích lịch sử để lại đó qua thời gian tạo nên những khoảng trống khác biệt đáng kể trong nội dung nghệ thuật được dạy tại các trường đại học trong nước và những xu hướng mới của thế giới. Vào năm 2000, khi còn là một cậu sinh viên trường Đại học Mỹ Thuật Việt Nam, Sơn đã chọn chuyên ngành hội họa trên chất liệu sơn mài và lụa, như rất nhiều bạn học của anh. Người họa sỹ trẻ này chỉ biết đến khái niệm về nghệ thuật sắp đặt khi anh tham gia lớp học ngắn của một giảng viên mời giảng người Đức tên là Veronika. Anh vẫn nhớ mãi bài tập đầu tiên được cô Veronika giao: tất cả sinh viên phải ra khỏi lớp, đi tìm đề tài và làm thành tác phẩm theo đề tài “nước”. Với đề tài này, Sơn đã lần đầu tiên tạo ra tác phẩm của mình bằng cách dùng nhiếp ảnh để khám phá hiện trạng của sông hồ và sự ô nhiễm nước ở Việt Nam. Sau đó, anh bắt đầu tự tìm hiểu thêm về loại nghệ thuật đương đại này và đi theo con đường chuyên nghiệp vào năm 2008 khi anh sang

Bắc Kinh để học khóa học Thạc sỹ về Nhiếp Ảnh Nghệ Thuật tại Học Viện Mỹ Thuật Trung Ương Bắc Kinh (CAFA).

Những Thử Nghiệm không ngừng nghỉ

Trong căn hộ nhỏ bé nhưng gọn gàng của mình trên một con phố khá tấp nập ở quận Hai Bà Trưng, Sơn hào hứng giới thiệu những tác phẩm của anh, một số đã được hoàn tất, một số vẫn đang dở dang. “Những họa sỹ đã đi ra nước ngoài học và trở về như mình thường cảm thấy bị “kênh”, vì nhiều thứ mình đã được học và tiếp xúc thì hiện ở Việt Nam chưa được công nhận.” Sơn giải thích tác phẩm “Nhà Mặt Phố” đã giúp anh tốt nghiệp tại học viện CAFA nhưng có lẽ sẽ không thể được chấp nhận là đề tài thạc sỹ ở Việt Nam. “Đó là bởi vì hiện tại chưa có một chính sách, hay một khoa đào tạo nghệ thuật nào trong nước chính thức công nhận nghệ thuật thử nghiệm.” Sinh ra trong một gia đình gồm có bố, mẹ, và

cả em gái đều là họa sỹ, nhưng Sơn nói, ban đầu ngay cả những người thân cũng khó có thể chia sẻ những đam mê của anh với nghệ thuật thử nghiệm. “Khi tôi học tại Bắc Kinh, có người hỏi tôi sang đấy học gì, bố tôi thường tránh và chỉ trả lời chung chung là tôi sang đấy học nghệ thuật,” Sơn nhớ lại. “Ông không hiểu được tại sao tôi lại học các thứ khác mà không phải là vẽ. Theo ông, họa sỹ là phải vẽ, và chỉ vẽ mà thôi.” Những khó khăn đó giờ đã không thể làm nản lòng Sơn. Người nghệ sỹ có một niềm tin mạnh mẽ vào con đường nghệ thuật anh đã chọn. “Mọi người rồi sẽ dần hiểu và chấp nhận nó. Cũng giống như mối quan hệ của mình và bố mình vậy.” “Nhà Mặt Phố” với câu chuyện của gia đình ẩn chứa trong nó đã giúp bố của Sơn bắt đầu vhiểu và chấp nhận những tác phẩm của anh. Thông qua nó, họ đã tìm được tiếng nói chung tiếng nói về nghệ thuật.

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Ho Chi Minh City a tale of two cities / manor life

Art Special

A Tale of Two Cities Emily Beyda delves into how Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City overcame their artistic differences and learnt to work together. Photos by Alexandre Garel 110 | Word April 2013

anoi has been considered Vietnam’s national centre of cultural, intellectual and artistic activity for most of the country’s history. Home to both the national gallery and the country’s oldest and best known art school, the city is also celebrated for its many historicallyimportant temples and artistic monuments. It’s hard to walk the streets of Hanoi without immersing yourself in the city’s noble history of artistic distinction, from century-old temples and the evocative folk art productions of the famous water puppet theatre, to lesser known treasures like a smattering of highly regarded contemporary galleries and the world’s longest mosaic. While Ho Chi Minh City has its share of notable monuments, Vietnam’s commercial hub has always existed in the shadow of this artistic history, the flashy, hip LA to Hanoi’s more dignified New York. Still, there has always been more going on in Ho Chi Minh City than is readily apparent to the casual observer. For the past decade, as Vietnam began its path to development, young Viet Kieu were slowly drawn back to the southern cities their parents abandoned, bringing with them the philosophical and artistic pursuits they had picked up abroad.

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“While Ho Chi Minh City has its share of notable monuments, Vietnam’s commercial hub has always existed in the shadow of this artistic history, the flashy, hip LA to Hanoi’s more dignified New York” Suddenly, small galleries were opening up, and cute new coffee shops across the city hung art by local artists on their walls. People rode their motorbikes to the openings of exhibitions in far away districts. The Fine Art Museum expanded its collection of contemporary work. Like fruit slowly growing to ripeness, unnoticed, Ho Chi Minh City’s character began to quietly change.

An Art Scene Grows A few years ago, the shift began in earnest. Brian Ring, founder and editor of Hanoi Grapevine, a highly influential arts and culture blog, says that he first noticed Ho Chi Minh City’s growing presence in the national art world back in 2011. That’s the year when the influential, and until then Hanoi-based, contemporary artist Nguyen

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Manh Hung moved down south. He followed in the footsteps of experimental musician Vu Nhat Tan, who had been dividing his time between the two cities for a few years already. Ho Chi Minh City was already wellknown throughout Vietnam as a centre for an energetic youth and celebrity culture, while Hanoi had a reputation for being a rather staid and respectable town, where the bars closed early and the galleries were run by committee. Suddenly the southern city was an attractive prospect for energetic young Vietnamese artists, looking for a new arena in which to showcase their considerable talents. With many newly established Ho Chi Minh City galleries flourishing at a time when their Hanoi-based counterparts struggled to stay afloat or closed entirely,

it seemed as though the city was poised to become the country’s premiere artistic destination. Many whispered that Hanoi’s glory days were over, that the city’s scene had become weighed down by its own past. Suddenly Ho Chi Minh City was in the ascendancy, as rumour had it, attracting the hippest, youngest contemporary artists that Vietnam had to offer, and claiming Hanoi’s place in the sun.

Meeting in the Middle The truth, as the truth often is, proved to be much more complicated. Ring himself challenges any assumptions about the opposition between the northern and southern art scenes, pointing out that as the new galleries opened, they were showing both Saigon and Hanoi artists in equal measure, and that Galerie Quynh and San

Art, two of Ho Chi Minh City’s oldest and most well-respected galleries, frequently feature Hanoi artists in their shows. “I think the picture is not so clearly defined,” he says. “Has the centre of the scene really shifted south?” Covering Session One — the first installment of San Art’s new residency programme — a few months ago was a turning point in the way that I personally viewed the relationship between the two cities. San Art is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s most globally visible galleries, partnering with artists and institutions around the world, in places like London, Tokyo and San Francisco. If there was ever a place to discover the up-and-comers of the Ho Chi Minh City art scene, this was it. But what I found there surprised me. The show featured three artists, one from Saigon, it’s true, but two from northern Vietnam, representing both Hue and Hanoi. After a six-month residency period in an apartment in Binh Thanh, near the gallery, each of the artists produced works responding to and commenting on daily life in Ho Chi Minh City as only an outsider can.

Featured artist Tuan Mami, who comes from Hanoi and created a catalogue of commonplace Ho Chi Minh City objects as his contribution to the show, discussed how exposure to the southern lifestyle influenced his work more than he expected. His work, he says, was about responding to his environment objectively, as a scientist or an outsider would, and life in Saigon had meant being thrust into an entirely new and strange world, forced to respond to his changing atmosphere without preconceptions of prejudice. It is in this space, between the familiar and the alien, that creativity can truly flourish. This supposed northern/southern duality has also begun to break down in other popular galleries around town as well. Take Craig Thomas Gallery on the edge of District 1. An exhibition in December, Evolution, featured the work of Dong Nai-based artist Luong Luu Bien. This was followed last month with the exhibition Handle With Care! showcasing the work of Hanoi-based Nguyen The Hung. Quynh Pham, the founder of Galerie Quynh explains the change.

Information G alleries

Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 cthomasgallery.com Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, Q1 galeriequynh.com San Art 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh san-art.org Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 baotangmythuattphcm.vn deciBel Café 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1 decibel.vn

W ebsites

Hanoi Grapevine hanoigrapevine.com

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“My programming in the past certainly favoured artists based in Saigon,” she says. “I felt that it was important to support artists in my own community. But I have recently begun a more active engagement with artists from the north.” Now that southern artists have gained more of a foothold in the country, Galerie Quynh has shifted its focus to encompass the work of artists from across Vietnam. In fact, the gallery’s next show will focus on works by Hanoi-based artist Ha Manh Thang in his first exhibition in Saigon. His work, says Quynh, has been exhibited “in Hanoi, Asia and Europe for the past 10 years and has a solid collector base. Yet the community here is not terribly familiar with his practice”. Galerie Quynh’s decision to support a

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locally unknown, but globally successful artist is emblematic of the great strides in trans-regional support that the local art community has made in the past few years. “It is encouraging to see more exchanges between Vietnamese artists in different cities and more exhibitions travelling within the nation,” says Quynh. The moment when I finally fully realised how much the old rules had ceased to matter was at an underground film screening, somewhere in District 3. As I drank beer in a crowd of students, watching a movie set in the northern countryside filmed by a relocated Hanoi native and his collaborator from Singapore, it was clear that the old artistic order was gone, maybe for good. Instead of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City squaring off for artistic

supremacy, artists are collaborating more than ever before, crossing ideological, generational and, most importantly, locational barriers with abandon.

The Other Side of The Coin This increased interest in exchange and communication isn’t a one-sided process either. With vibrant new galleries springing up every minute, Hanoi is hardly the staid epicentre of ivory tower art snobbery that detractors imagine it to be. On a recent visit to the city, there was an exhibition at the Hanoi College of Fine Arts that featured the work of art students from across Vietnam, hung alongside works from students in Korea. At Manzi Café, a newly opened café, art gallery and event space similar to Ho Chi Minh City’s own deciBel,

Launch of Phan Quang's installations at San Art. Photos provided by San Art.

Japanese and American bands hung flyers in the bathroom, and artists from cities across Vietnam featured their work in the upstairs gallery shop. Like Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi seems to be opening itself up to outside influences with increasing vigour and conviction, creating an entirely new atmosphere of global artistic exchange. And southern artists are taking note. Kelsey Siggins, a local Saigon artist who is in the process of opening a gallery and event space, says that Hanoi legend, and recent Saigon transplant, Le Quang Ha’s celebrated Hanoi gallery space was “colossally inspiring for me and my partner. [His gallery] was shut down after one to two years, but lives on in legends.” Ring is right. Rather than taking Hanoi’s place in the sun, the Ho Chi Minh City

art scene is gaining momentum at a time where increased collaboration between the two regions isn’t only possible, but necessary. As Vietnam becomes more of a global presence, and the artistic community expands, it is vital that the country develops a cultural identity that extends far beyond the boundaries of regionalism. Northern and southern Vietnam no longer have to define themselves as oppositional artistic forces, but rather as two sides of the same coin, two regions combining their energies to create something entirely new. This is the true secret of the Ho Chi Minh City v. Hanoi debate. Not that there’s some kind of dramatically contentious, Hunger Games-style battle for geographic and artistic supremacy, but that the divide is closing faster, and more permanently, than

anyone ever imagined it could. Perhaps this change is symptomatic of the digital age. As it becomes easier to reach across time and space with a click of the cursor, geographic distances are becoming less and less important as markers of cultural, social and yes, even artistic identity. Instead of comfortably cocooning themselves in familiar creative environments, creating work responding to and commenting on the familiar world around them, contemporary Vietnamese artists are embracing the strange, the contradictory, the unknown. By working together, artists in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City alike are moving beyond their traditional concerns and limitations to create something vitally modern, and uniquely Vietnamese.

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urban living

Manor Life Like gated compounds, the suburb-like Manor and Saigon Pearl offer a lifestyle that keeps its residents detached from the city. But is such detachment really so desirable? Words and photos by Galen Stolee

hen Mike Olson first stepped out of a taxi and into Nguyen Thi Minh Khai’s Hem 18A, a full four months after moving to Ho Chi Minh City, a curious feeling washed over him: he had just entered Vietnam for the first time. Loud motorcycles zipped by. Curious aromas filled the air. A cacophony of voices — families bickering, friends laughing and children yelling — surrounded him. There was an energy here unlike anything he’d every experienced. So how had it taken so long for all this to be introduced to him? How can you live in a city but not actually live there at all? The answer, Mike says, has a lot to do with the area of the city he was placed into and lived for those first few months, a collection of towers settled on the border of District 1 and Binh Thanh, collectively titled The Manor. Completed respectively in 2007 and 2009, the apartment complexes The Manor and Saigon Pearl, located across the street from each other on Nguyen Huu Canh in Binh Thanh, have in the past few years seen a steady flow of both temporary and longterm residents from Vietnam and around the world. Both complexes boast an impressive

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selection of facilities, everything from gyms to restaurants, as well as cleaning and delivery services directly to apartments — the sum of which offers the option of a completely self-contained life, set apart from the manic outdoors. It’s an attractive prospect. The first thing you notice when entering either The Pearl or The Manor is how quiet it is. Whether it’s a Friday afternoon or a Sunday morning, there seems to be an almost unnerving level of silence around here, in stark contrast to the busy streets located just a few hundred feet off in any direction. Surrounding each tower are large courtyards, filled with well-manicured trees and gardens, and plenty of benches for sitting, most of which are empty during the week. Most residents can only be seen for a few moments, between exiting their taxis and making their way through the front door. On weekend evenings, however, these courtyards come alive with activity, as couples meet for dinner at the cafés, parents take their strollerborne toddlers for walks and kids ride around on scooters and bicycles.

The Prefabricated Life It’s on one of these nights, sitting by The Pearl’s poolside café, that I meet Boris

Gueudin, a three-month-detainee who tells me about another side to life in the towers. “There are some people you’ll never see,” he says. “They spend all their time inside, with their doors closed.” Boris recalls moving from the My Phouc building nearby in Binh Thanh, where families would leave their doors open, allowing air — as well as noise and cooking smells — to pass through the halls. Unlike his previous residence, he observes, the doors of The Pearl are usually shut tight. This move has had a profound impact on Boris’ experience of the city. “Before, I felt like I was living in Vietnam. Now it feels like I have to leave the city to come into this place. It’s like an embassy.” This transition is an exact mirror image of Mike Olson’s experience. When he first came to Vietnam, Mike was convinced that living in The Manor would allow him the perfect mix of western comforts and access to the city proper. What he didn’t expect, however, was to fall headfirst into a kind of ‘prefabricated lifestyle’ that came packaged with the apartment. “I would only go to places that were recommended to me,” Mike explains. “My idea of going out was eating lunch at Pho

portion of the residents of The Pearl can be broken down into two categories: those that come from wealth and appreciate the level of status and sophistication The Pearl offers, and others who have lived in less ideal conditions, and now simply want a bit of respite from the difficulties of city life. Alice herself is from the latter category; the daughter of a factory worker in Korea, she studied design and came to work in Vietnam for a marketing company five years ago. While her decision to live in The Pearl came from the desire to have a Korean-style apartment with a nice view, she knows plenty of wealthy foreigners and Vietnamese for whom the name recognition of ‘The Pearl’ is worth the price of admission.

The Vertical City

24 and dinner at KFC. I had a kitchen, but I never cooked, because everything was there in front of me. My kitchen was for storing beer.” The prefab lifestyle also extended into his personal life. Mike felt like his circle of friends was ever-narrowing, and his extra-work activities repetitive and limited to a few select spots around town. “I felt like I needed to perpetuate this image that [coworkers and friends] had of me. I had to be seen in a collared shirt, at Apocalypse Now, on the dance floor,” he recalls with more amusement than embarrassment. “Who’d have thought I’d travel 10,000 miles just to hang out with more gelled-up douchebags?” After a few nights experiencing the hospitality and diversity of Hem 18A, drinking cheap beer and eating home-style cooking with young locals and foreigners, his eyes were opened. “Unlike the Manor, within this world I had nothing to prove,” he observes. He moved out to a small house on 18A and has never looked back. Alice Park, a resident of the Topaz 2 tower of The Pearl, says Mike’s experience is common among businessmen living in the complex, especially those that divide their time between countries. She says a large

For most residents of both complexes, ease of use is a major plus. The Pearl contains a fitness club, pool and spa, outdoor restaurant, salon, grocery store, 24-hour quick shop, laundry and maid service. The Manor trumps even this, adding a number of fast-food restaurants, two bank branches, a travel agency and even a full-service dental clinic. Jordan Howard, who lives in The Pearl and spends most of his time in District 1, admits that the facilities “can keep [you] in the complex for days.” But unlike some of the residents of the complexes, Jordan and others like him aren’t quite ready to completely remove themselves from the street culture they know and love. In fact, for Edge Pamute, who also lives in the Topaz 2 tower, staying close to the city was exactly his reason for moving into the Pearl. “A lot of people need more space when they have kids, and end up moving to District 2 or 7,” Edge says. “It’s nice to have a big villa, but now you’re in this gated community, miles outside the city centre. This way, you get a lot of the same advantages, but you’re still only five minutes away from downtown and all the organised chaos.” Edge says that controlling this chaos was another major factor in his decision to move into the Pearl, especially when it came to his 14-year-old daughter, Zoe. “Where we were living before [in District 4], I wouldn’t feel comfortable having her roam around on her own.” But with the security that The Pearl offers, Edge doesn’t feel like he has to watch her so closely. Zoe, who attends school in An Phu, seems to appreciate the freedom. “I spend a lot of time over at my friends’

apartments, and can easily go downtown in a taxi to see a movie if I want.” Not all kids get the same degree of autonomy, however. Sam, a 13-year-old attending The Pearl International School, says that his life mostly involves going from his apartment to school and back. Though he doesn’t get many chances to go into the city, he doesn’t seem to feel that he’s missing much. “The city is very noisy, and dangerous,” he says. “Here is much more peaceful, and I have everything I need.”

Upward Mobility There’s a prevailing feeling among those that have lived in the city for years and are now choosing a more comfortable, controlled environment. “The main thing you are buying is the stress-free area,” Jordan says. “That’s enough of a retreat from the frenetic street life that I walked out to and loved for my first four years in Vietnam. Now I can love the street life when I want, but I can also stay away from it when I want.” In other words, there comes a time when you’ve paid your dues and simply want a higher standard of living. If you ask most people, they’ll agree that Ho Chi Minh City has its fair share of downsides. Noise, dirt, a lack of security and stability. But beyond just being simple annoyances, these things are all part of the defining character of the city. We may try to limit our experience of these things, to try to maintain a little bit of order among all the chaos. But we can’t deny that by doing so, we are fundamentally altering our relationship with the city, and by extension everyone else living within it. In the end, as Boris says, it’s all about finding a balance. “There is a tendency to wake up in the morning, get some food sent to your room, crash in bed for a few hours and then jump in the pool, without ever stepping outside.” The trick, he says, is to “overcome that desire to get too comfortable”. With almost a dozen similar complexes going up around the city in the next few years, one wonders what kind of relationship future residents of these buildings will have with Ho Chi Minh City. Will they lose themselves in the prefab lifestyle, hiding away from the noise and the clutter of street culture? Or will they find their own level of balance? Either way, we may just be looking at a model for the future of life in the big city.

“Before,” Boris says, “I felt like I was living in Vietnam. Now it feels like I have to leave the city to come into this place. It’s like an embassy.”

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The Final Say living the dream / the last call

The Many Faces of Saigon

Living the Dream Kyo York is a household name in his adopted country, which isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bad for a poor boy from Philadelphia who arrived in Vietnam four years ago on the voluntary teaching trail. Derek Milroy gets inside the mind of the uber-confident twenty-something. Photos by Harvey Morrison

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yo York is a rarity. He has the western swagger and confidence often seen around town, but he is not a mere bystander in history watching it all go down. He is in the middle of it. As many westerners do, he came to teach — he was part of the Princeton in Asia scholarship programme, which saw him teaching as a volunteer in a small Mekong Delta village. That seems like a lifetime ago as now, if you turn on your television, you may see his familiar face singing in Vietnamese with aplomb. He has long surpassed the fumbling attempts at ordering lunch in the local lingo and is now the real deal. Kyo speaks Vietnamese fluently, sings it fluently and is so good that when his adoring audience closes their eyes they believe he is one of their own. But when they open them again they are staring at a handsome blue-eyed, blond-haired American.

show, but it was ladies’ night in the grand finale as he surprisingly came in third behind Thuy Uyen and winner Khoi My. “Everyone was telling me I was going to win, but it was a great experience and hopefully it improves my profile,” says Kyo. “I was disappointed not to win but I feel I have won something more than money. People admire me and respect me, and you can't put a price on that.” The big moment was tinged with sadness as he ended up bursting out into tears as he spoke in Vietnamese about how much he missed his family and his mum in particular. York, whose real name is Kyle Cochrane, had it tough growing up in a poor family, needing to earn scholarships for his education. Luckily, he was talented enough to shine through.

“He doesn’t even mind people following him and staring at him more than the usual ‘look, there’s a foreigner’. It’s more like, ‘Look, there’s Kyo York, the white guy who sings in Vietnamese on TV.’”

Workaholic Deadly serious about his singing, Kyo began life as a vocalist when he was a kid, gracing the stage of the Carnegie Hall in New York as part of a choir. In Vietnam he has appeared at huge concerts nationwide. Within the circle of celebrities with whom he interacts, he is the only white face. His success hasn’t been easy but the selfconfessed workaholic has certainly put in the hours. He still practices his singing for three to four hours a day and the self-taught Vietnamese speaker — he still studies for two hours everyday — never knows when to stop. Recently he proved he’s game for a laugh by appearing on the TV show Chung Ket Guong Mat Than Quen, which saw him dress up and sing as famous Vietnamese and western — male and female — celebrities. He was most people’s favourite to win the

“I was very upset on the final show because I was hoping my mum could come from America,” he says. “It would have meant so much to me, but we are not a rich family and I couldn’t afford to buy her a ticket.”

quality to Whitney Houston. A very strong voice, remarkably powerful. She has helped me so much.” He adds: “I have achieved more here in Vietnam than I could have ever dreamed. I’ve gone from teaching English to young kids to singing Vietnamese at the biggest events in Vietnam, and I even have my own fan club. I often stop and wonder if I'm really here or if I'm in some coma in a hospital in America and just haven't woken up yet. I lead one of the most interesting and unique lives.” However, York admits there were days when he was tempted to head home. Instead of booking a flight, he started to drink heavily. A lot of his friends from the teaching programme went back to the US, but he chose to stay a little longer as he had a good feeling. Those were some of the loneliest and most trying times. “I wondered if I’d made the right decision,” he says. “I also got heavily into drinking for a short, two-month period. Looking back on it, though, I realised that was dangerous and stupid, but it stemmed from the feeling of inadequacy I had with myself and the loneliness I felt. Sometimes the feeling of the unknown really can change a person and make them do strange things. I’m lucky that I know how to remove myself and look at my life 360 degrees. This is a skill I’ve mastered from a very young age.” Now, though, those dark days are well behind him. The future is bright for York, who has become an important part of the Vietnamese entertainment scene. He doesn’t even mind people following him and staring at him more than the usual ‘look, there’s a foreigner’. It’s more like, “Look, there’s Kyo York, the white guy who sings in Vietnamese on TV.”

Darkness and The Dream That aside, York, who was brought up on the outskirts of Philadelphia, admits he feels like he is living a dream and that the last few years have been the most amazing time in his life. York hooked up with Siu Black early on, a famous Vietnamese singer who has helped develop his vocal talent. “Siu Black is unique,” he says, “because she is the only [overweight] Vietnamese singer. She is from an ethnic minority in the Central Highlands and has a similar vocal

April 2013 Word | 119

the LAST CALL

With their latest installment of short plays taking to the stage this April, we talk to Hanoi International Theatre Society (HITS) directors Nadia Engelbrecht and Kelly Brennan. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

Shorts are… best worn by people with great legs! But seriously, they’re a fool-proof format for theatre in Hanoi that has been successful on three previous occasions. They are both challenging in that they force playwrights to get a lot of stuff into a short amount of time and exciting as they inject an instant shot of intense drama. They’re not hard work for an audience, but neither are they light fluff. We try to… throw together plays of completely different genres, energy and tone to take the audience on a roller-coaster ride. We do this by mixing up all the different styles, with a very varied group of people and by mashing it all together into an intricate mosaic of a piece.

Word play and confusion... is an on-going theme in almost all of the shorts being presented. Along with implication and sexual innuendo. Somewhat embarrassingly all the directors seem to have gone a bit smutty for this round of shorts. This is a show with adult content.

Things aren’t always… as they seem. This is especially true with these particular shorts. Where are we? What’s happened to my waitress? And why is it that I have a cheese steak sandwich instead of my order of pigs feet? Important questions!

Directing a play…is incredibly exciting, especially with the HITS groups as you get to work with such a varied group of individuals. But it is also scary and stressful. The enjoyment

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of it is totally dependent on the actors and their commitment and enthusiasm.

Projects involving this many people… aren’t

always simple. When groups of adults get together to try to achieve something like this in a short space of time it can be a great big cauldron of egos, ideas, pre-conceptions and compromise. Having a clear vision towards the end goal is vital.

Behind the scenes… can be

as dramatic as what is happening on stage. The green room is an exciting place charged with expectant energy. Plus, in a less literal ‘behind the scenes’ way a huge amount of planning and organisation goes into making anything like this happen. We have a strong, supportive production team whose time and commitment to the cause is truly invaluable.

This time… we’re trying

something new. We’re putting the plays on at Chez Xuan. It’s a bit more informal, spring-like and fun. Plus, we’ve got three great DJs lined up to play after the show so people can stay and party with us if they want.

After the last show is over we… whoop a lot and

get drunk. We then cherish the few weeks of calm and free time before getting our heads together again for whatever might be around the corner. Spring Shorts are being shown on Apr. 11, Apr. 12 and Apr. 13 at Chez Xuan. Shows start at 8.30pm.