Word Ho Chi Minh City April 2013 by Word Vietnam

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

APRIL 2013

Snap of Sashots igon

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

Contents

wordhcmc.com

APRIL 2013

034

072

061

066

006 | The Prelude

COLUMNS 102 | Business Buff

THE TALK 009 | The Big Five

FEATURES

010 | Just In

040

NOT JUST FOR EVERYONE Everyone’s a DJ turns four

064

070

and learning experiences

038 | Love Match What the stars have to say on the subject

2 | Word April 2013

THE FRENCH SPECIAL

Looking back on a 40 year relationship – and looking forward

076

THE RISE OF LOUNGE

Vietnam goes back to the 1970s, in a cool and comfortable atmosphere

080

A TALE OF TWO CITIES

The meeting point of artistic differences

086

034 | Singled Out

036 | Closing the ‘Net Logging on for love,

THIS IS LONDON

Conquering the cold and exploring the quirks of ‘The Swinging City’

Dylan Kerr finds his stride in the V-League VietnamCupid isn’t just for creepers anymore

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

042

Our cover feature explores how people make this city work for them

Philadelphia became a star in Vietnam

032 | An Englishman in Hai Phong

160

THE SPORTING LIFE

Aussie rules and dodgeball get some burn

088

THE HOASEN SHORT STORY COMPETITION Just like Highlander, there can be only one

092 PURITY

SNOB

Getting style sorted for summer

The thrilling conclusion!

160 | Last Call AIS’s Thuy Nguyen guides the next generation

April 2013 Word | 3

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April 2013 Word | 5

The Prelude A

recent trip to Paris reminded me how similar and yet how different the British are to the French. Similar in that so much of the way the city and the people operate feels familiar, especially to a Londoner such as myself. Different in that there are all these nuances, subtleties so small that they can often be missed, which language aside mark a contrast between these neighbouring nations. Such nuances are also at play here in Vietnam, it’s just that the distance between west and east is so much more distinct. Yet they remain fascinating. Take the traffic. If someone cuts up a westerner, they are likely to scream blind murder. Yet if a

Saigonese born and bred suffers the same injustice, they’re likely just to ignore the mistake and get on with it. After all, nothing happened, right? So why lose your temper and risk adding injury to an unintended insult? It is for this reason that we decided to focus our cover story on different lifestyles. Not because we wanted to be alternative, but because we wanted to get at these little nuances, these subtleties that differ from person to person and affect the way they live. We called the feature Snapshots of a City, more in reference to our front cover. But in reality this is a piece about people, about how they live their lives, and how most importantly, in this

INBOX That Place Up North My experience of Hanoi has always been pretty crap, to be honest (The Hanoi Issue, March 2013). So when I saw that you’d done a whole feature on the place, I thought it would be pretty dull. But what you’ve written is quite commendable. It seems there is more to Hanoi than I thought. Maybe I’ve just been going to all the wrong places. — MH

Noble Really like your article on Stephen Bradley (The Director, page 28, March 2013). Just hoping that the final Noble movie will be better than The Quiet American with Michael Caine. Now that was a disappointment. — JD

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city it is becoming easier to be anything and anyone you want to be. We hope you enjoy our ‘snapshots’ as much as we have. And if you’ve got time, take a look at the French Special. This year a number of countries are celebrating 40 years of diplomatic relations with Vietnam. But the effort and the audaciousness of the festivities being put together by France are a real eye opener. No matter who you are or where you come from, you should get involved. As ever, if you’ve got any comments, suggestions or ideas, simply give us a shout. Email editor@wordhcmc.com and we’ll do our best to get in touch. — Nick Ross

ChuyêN Đề du LịCh, ẩm thựC ho ChI mINh CIty EdItIoN

aprIL 2013

Sna of Spashots igon

Nhà Xuất BảN Lao ĐộNg

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo by Alexandre Garel

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US AT EDITOR@WORDHCMC.COM — WE’RE NOW AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

Dog Meat Your article says dog restaurants are ‘hideaway’?! (The Phu Quoc Dog, page 146, March 2013). Not sure where your writer lives, but we live in Ciputra, Hanoi, and there are five dog restaurants right outside the gates. I own a Phu Quoc and they don’t need special food and water. They also don’t find it hard to adapt to a life of dependency on humans. Quite the opposite — they crave attention and suffer from separation anxiety when left alone. They need what every dog needs — a loving home where they are cared for and treated as a member of the family. If you can provide that and a bit of space/exercise, then I can’t recommend the Phu Quoc more highly. — MP Interesting article here, but why no mention of WHY the Phu Quoc breed nearly went extinct, as noted in the subhead? Given the discussion in it of eating dog, I suspected they all were nearly consumed into extinction. — manandultraman

—I idea utts! o n had ugly m m ears Fo r y o u g h t ‘ e g g t r e e e h t h t s i s ju —f

ExTENDED FEATURE

The Phu Quoc Dog: A Renaissance The hunting dog coming from Vietnam’s largest island maintains a mythical status. It has been close to extinction on a number of occasions yet this feisty ridgeback has clawed and scratched its way through the centuries. Derek Milroy decided to find out more about this phenomenal creature that is on its way to being recognized as Vietnam’s national dog. Photos by Adam Astley

hunter by nature, rivals of this ridgeback cower in fear when they see the erect whorls on its back and its short, menacing thin hair. Not only does the Phu Quoc dog look brave and strong, it is a supreme being. Despite some similar features to comedy cartoon character Scooby Doo, the superhero of the Vietnamese dog world can swim, hunt and even climb trees. It’s no wonder that when people come across Vietnam’s most revered breed they become intrigued.

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The earliest non-Vietnamese sighting of the Phu Quoc dog occurred in the late 19th century when French medical student Fernand Doceul witnessed a Phu Quoc bitch making a predatory kill on a deer far superior in size — the dog weighs on average 15 to 20 kilos. He was astonished to see the athletic animal forcing the deer into the water before swimming after it and attacking its neck. The end was a foregone conclusion. Some dogs were taken to Europe at the

end of 19th century by the French, with two individuals named Xoai (Mango, a boy) and Chuoi (Banana, a girl) winning a dog show in Lille, France. They were born in 1892 and owned by Gaston Helouin who lived in Helfaut, Pas-de-Calais, northern France. Xoai and Chuoi also took part in the Universal Dog show held in Anvers, Belgium in July, 1894. Around the same time, cynologist (dog expert) Count Henry de Bylandt recorded the standard of the Phu Quoc Dog in his

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April 2013 Word | 7

The Talk

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

Boxed In Standing out from the crowd is as important as ever

ating back to cooperative rice farming, Vietnamese society has clustered around shared business concerns. Villages developed in rural areas, guilds in the cities. They were founded on the most basic, essential units of cooperation and togetherness — families and extended networks of kin. It’s a type of social organisation that carries on to this day. With this intermingling of business and pleasure, there are plenty of opportunities for dependencies and petty jealousies to arise. Today we can see this spirit of cooperation reflected in nearby shop owners selling the same products, having the same distribution networks and doing little to differentiate themselves from their neighbours — working together for a greater goal. The negative aspects of this closeness, however, have an influence that runs counter to progress.

Copy Culture The Japanese have a proverb which states, “the nail that sticks out gets banged down.” Practically, people copy one another to fit into the accepted norm. Like Japan, in Vietnam there is a pressure to fit in. On an individual basis, this is self-limiting. But on a wider scale, it wreaks havoc on invention and creativity.

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The two countries have similar modern eras — emerging from the wreckage of war, trying to find a new and successful path by following other countries’ examples. In the case of Japan, the copying impulse was used in the 1960s and 1970s to develop nascent car and machinery industries that had benefitted from decades-long head starts in the west. By borrowing others’ triumphs and learning from their mistakes, they skipped the awkward growing-up phase of industrialisation and modernised to the point they’re at now — pointed in their own unique direction, taking cues from their own needs and desires. In Vietnam, however, the copies haven’t been replaced by new directions. And a generation of not-so-savvy business owners is floundering as a result. Walking down the street in Ho Chi Minh City, you see newly-opened restaurants on a weekly basis, their owners staring into the street, expectant. If you’re not careful, you could mistake them for restaurants that had been there before, whose ill-fitting footprint they may have stepped straight into. If there’s a trend and something seems to work, then more businesses enter the industry. The newbies make the same dishes, and serve the same drinks — they make the same mistakes. They open a restaurant like others they’ve been in and like. After all, these

places are doing something right, aren’t they? So why pursue your own path? Why be the nail that sticks out?

Bucking the Trend With Starbucks opening the floodgates — and the similarly-themed Startup Coffee already capitalising on its brand recognition — more Vietnamese business owners are seeing the clean, chain-type restaurant as the model to follow. But this easy answer won’t help them in the long run. Instead of playing catch-up, where one is always behind, now is the time for business owners to look to their own strengths to show them the way forward. The likes of Starbucks will always have their advantages. Starbucks is new, and being new is cool. It will take a while to lose that lustre, connected as it is with a different world. With the economy so complicated right now, and with many businesses finding it tough to make ends meets, this is the time for startups to depart from their prescribed trajectories. There are a number of things a café can do here besides imitate, and most actions would be something new, as new as a shiny green Starbucks-looking sign. After all, even though the nail that sticks out gets banged down, it’s better to get banged down than not get banged at all. — Ed Weinberg

THE

BIG EVERYONE’S A DJ

WATCH OUT OUT FOR FOR THIS THIS MONTH MONTH THINGS TO WATCH

The well-known party organiser turns four this month, and in celebration they’re putting on a huge event on Saturday Apr. 6 in the area around Nguyen Hue and Ho Tung Mau in District 1. Encompassing three bars — Broma, Lucca and Retro — with the purchase of one armband allowing entrance to all three, the ambitious festivities look set to create a unique night of hedonistic, music-based fun. For further information go to page 20. And to see an interview with Everyone’s a DJ founder, Linh Phan, check out page 40

TOUGHEST RACE IN QUANG BINH

TAKING IT TO THE SHEETS

Wake Up Saigon is going to sleep on International Pillow Fight Day 2013 — but they’re not going peacefully! Join the overtired masses on Apr. 6 for this flash mob melee, as fellow pillow fighters in 60 cities around the globe fluff and feather their way to not-so-sweet dreams. Last year’s inaugural bash drew well over a 100 participants in Saigon, and this time — according to their Facebook events page — it should be even bigger! For those who like to keep bedroom stuff in the bedroom, there will be a pillow vendor on-site. For more information, go to Wake Up Saigon’s Facebook page — facebook.com/wakeupsaigon

TANGO TAKEOVER The sultry steps of tango aren’t only for South America any longer. Bringing an entirely different kind of heat to Southeast Asia, Argentinian masters Pablo and Noelia Giorgini, Guillermo Claure and others show off their best moves at the Saigon TangoBlitz Festival from Apr. 27 to May 5. Hosted in some of the city’s finest hotels, let these connoisseurs get you into the swing of things with workshops for both individuals from VND2 million and couples from VND3.7 million. Wrapping up with a night of performances, dancing, wining and dining, TangoBlitz 2013 is sure to put pep in your step. Find more information on workshops and events at ta-tango. blogspot.com, contact via email at tatango.vietnam@gmail.com or call 0947 750576

The world’s toughest endurance race comes to Vietnam next month. Jungle Marathon is a combination of sport, adventure and eco-tourism, with competitors running through narrow trails in primeval forests, wading across sinuous rivers and swimming through mysterious caves, with a stunning finish on the shore in Quang Binh Province. An international field of self-sufficient runners will cover more than 240km over six stages, including an overnight stage, from May 31 to Jun. 9. For more information check out junglemarathon.com

FRANCE-VIETNAM YEAR STARTS

To celebrate 40 years of diplomatic relations with Vietnam, France is really pulling out the stops and it all starts this month. From a jazz concert with Fabien Mary through to a 3D light show at the Reunification Palace in December, expect a veritable smorgasbord of events and celebrations. And not to be outdone, there will be a reciprocal, back-to-back celebration taking place in France in 2014, when Vietnam will take centre stage to show off their cultural and commercial prowess to the Gallic public. For further information go to our rundown of forthcoming events on page 17, or our big feature on page 70

Just In CIRRUS HITS THE STRATOSPHERE Cirrus, Vietnam’s highest fine dining restaurant, has opened on the 51st Floor of Bitexco. Try one of the elegant creations of their open-theatre kitchen — confit octopus, braised beef cheeks, Atlantic black cod and butter-poached salmon speckle the menu — as you look out on the sprawling city below, through five-metre floor-toceiling windows. A walk-in wine room, mezzanine seating area and VIP space make this a feast for refined senses. Cirrus is on Floor 51 of the Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1. Visit cirrussaigon.com for a peek

AGNES CAFÉ Adding to the stable of coffee shops on Thao Dien is the newly opened Agnes Café. However, unlike its rivals, Agnes comes with an interesting twist. First is the coffee. Made using beans grown in the Dalat area, the sourcing means that the lattes and cappuccinos are surprisingly good. All going to show that you don’t necessarily need imported beans to get that deep, espresso taste. Also is the layout. Comfortable, sofa-clad and non-smoking inside with a typical food and coffee counter, there is a pleasant terrace area

out front. The food menu is presently being developed — the owners have started with a breakfast menu (try the burritos, VND120,000) — but a full lunch menu is expected by early May to complement the pastries, bagels, croissants, muffins and desserts. They can also sell flowers delivered daily from Dalat. Agnes Café is at 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, close to McSorley’s and Buddha Bar. The café opens at 7am and closes at 6pm (weekdays) and 5pm (weekends)

MIXOLOGIST TO SHAKE UP THE BAR SCENE Though Vesper Bar can be found on the ground floor, their new wild card in April will take you to the next level. The veteran Austrian mixologist Robert Sabitzer will join Chef Andy Ertle in making an all-around amazing atmosphere. The already wellknown artistic tapas will now be complimented by Sabitzer’s arrangement of modified-to-perfection cocktails. Look out for advanced cocktail specials to enjoy at this already elegant locale. Vesper Bar is on the ground floor of the Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1

CIAO, BELLO! Zio Bello, a new Ho Chi Minh City edition of an Italian food operation started by three Italian friends in China. The inspiration behind it is the pizza-al-taglio sold throughout Italy as a simple, delicious and inexpensive lunch. Pizza-al-taglio translates as cut pizza, as each customer’s portion is a pizza slice. Zio Bello refines this original generic Italian formula into a high-quality, Italian fast casual restaurant concept, that meets the growing demand for speedy, convenient, premium quality working lunches. Supervising all this pizza cutting is a pizzaiolo, an expert at making sure you’re in good hands. Zio Bello is at Sm 42-204 Tran Van Tra, Q7, or visit ziobello.com

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Prevention is better than cure healthier life International SOS Clinics The road to a

starts at

A regular Health Check will help identify risks and allow for improved health outcomes. For a limited time only when you book for a Health Check you will receive a complimentary Health Check for a family member or friend.

Offer is valid from 1st April to 30th April 2013. Conditions apply.

April 2013 Word | 11

{ NERD'S World} **

Life Behind Glass

** ITALIAN SEAFOOD EATERY IN PHU MY HUNG La Cucina has opened on Crescent Promenade in Phu My Hung, with an open-plan kitchen that can accommodate 180 diners. Enjoy top-end dining featuring the best of Italian cuisine and a wide selection of imported seafood, prepared from the freshest ingredients, in a relaxed, rustic atmosphere. La Cucina is at CR1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, or click on lacucinarestaurant.com

n this day in age, it’s not often that we find ourselves impressed with technology, but Google has done it again with Project Glass. This is science fiction reality, driven by a headup display — the type of projected-on-glass data screen they have in fighter jets. There are two options for providing this type of experience. The first would be a device in or on the eye itself, while the second would sit in front of the eyes. Google has chosen the latter option, with the prototype already released into beta testing. Google Glass is a revolutionary piece of technology that will provide virtually anything you need in daily life. The possibilities for Glass seem boundless. According to Google, Glass has the ability to provide GPS navigation right before your eyes, real-time language translation, camera capabilities and voice commands as easy as, “Okay Glass, take a picture.” Glass was originally scheduled to be released to the public in 2014, but after all the recent hype surrounding the product, it could hit the market by the end of 2013. And, as easy as Glass could potentially make your life, it isn’t expected to come cheap. The projected price is said to be around US$1,500 (VND31.5 million).

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Rise of the Robots Google isn’t the only company making headway in this field. There are a handful of companies trying to break into the bionic contact lens industry. This would essentially be a nanocomputer that would sit directly on the eye. For the moment, the biggest obstacle to realising this technology is that our eye movement is so rapid that the focusing apparatus isn’t at a level to be functional for the consumer market. In 2011, the first functional prototype was tested on a live rabbit. The contact was in the rabbit’s eye for twenty minutes with no sign of irritation. The lens, consisting of organic and non-organic materials — to be biologically safe while containing complex circuitry — utilises an antenna to receive information, transmitting it to a one-pixel display. With recent developments, there are claims that the pixel usage has been increased from one pixel to eight pixels. Computerisation hasn’t affected our environments as much as 1950s sci-fi might have led us to believe, but it is starting to profoundly affect the ways we interact with them — if at all. We’ve slid the retina display curtain pretty far already, and Google and the other technovisionaries are selling us pretty well on never sliding it back. — Kyle Phanroy

BERRU RELOCATES If you’ve been wondering what’s happened to Berru, the Turkish restaurant once located on Tran Nao in District 2, well it hasn’t closed down. It’s instead relocated to Nguyen Luong Bang in the leafy suburb of Phu My Hung. Situated close to the bridge that divides Nguyen Luong Bang from Hoang Quoc Viet, and just 200m from Phu My Compound, the eatery has kept with the menu

of old. Expect anything from the ispanakli borek (VND50,000) through to the tasty meat kavurma (VND80,000), a range of salads and of course, the mighty doner, which is fired up on the skewer daily from 4pm. And, as in its previous incarnation, the cuisine tastes fantastic. It’s authentic, too. Berru is at SC3-1 My Khang, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7. Tel: 0932 467798

Sizzle with the Traditional Chinese Hot Pot at Dynasty

From 18 to 28 April 2013, during lunch and dinner, Master Chef Ho Wing Sang will create traditional Poon Choi, a special Chinese Hot Pot featuring nine layers of fresh and flavorful ingredients cooked to perfection in an authentic clay pot. VND542,000 per person To make your reservation, please contact us at +84 8 3829 4000 ext. 2208 or send an email to saigon@newworldhotels.com.

First Floor, New World Saigon Hotel 76 Le Lai, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City tel: +84 8 3822 8888 saigon@newworldhotels.com www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Platinum discount applies. Price is subject to 10% VAT and 6% service charge. The Chinese Combo Hot Pot is only available for a minimum of four people and takes 30 minutes to prepare.

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MADAGUI TROPHY RESULTS The eagerly-anticipated Madagui Trophy race in Cat Tien National Park, the biggest national park in Vietnam, was won by Russell Williams of the US from the team Cold Beer. His teammate Thien Nguyen from Australia was second. Hannah McMacken of The McAwesomes from the US was third. Vietnamese contestants from first to third were Tran Vu Hien and Vo Minh Quang of WSG Boys, with Le Thi Phuong of Decathlon finishing third.

SAIGON KISS There’s a new dark-folk duo in town, making their debut at deciBel the night of Apr. 5. They play originals, older blues, rock and pop interpretations, channeled through the PJ Harvey-type wail of lead singer Elle Odessa. From their bio: They’re “the basement-brewed Anarchist Cookbook recipe for an All-American girl: six strings, and a little sulfur — just add heartbreak. They will make you cry and like it.” deciBel is at 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, and online at decibel.vn

TOKYO STREETS MEET SAIGON HEAT

Saigon Soundbites ED TO COMPILE

Looking for more than just sushi? Discover the quirky charm of Tokyo style in the heart of District 1, behind the doors of the recently-opened IKEBANA. The haute hat shop brings Japanese culture to Vietnam with its customtailored floral hats as well as clothing, dishes and much more. Open 10am to 10pm daily at 151/4 Dong Khoi, 3rd Floor, Q1

STUDIO M SAIGON Anyone who has been to gigs and DJ nights around the country will know how difficult it is to get good sound. From bass that bursts your eardrums through to sound proofing that just doesn’t get the bounce right, sound here is, erm, unsound. In an attempt to deal with this shortfall, and to get professional sound engineers to work not just in setting up sound systems, but to enter the realm of sound production, Studio M France has entered into a partnership with a Saigon-based expat, Frederic Lefevre, to set up a sound school. Lefevre himself has a background in radio and sound studios, with a CV longer than the length of the average arm. So, expect this to be a professional setup from the off. Offering a range of programmes, Studio M Saigon

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will be launching their twoyear course in sound design in September this year. There will also be a range of short, 96-hour evening courses for music producers and home studio (96 hours, 3 x 3 hour sessions per week) as well as specialised training in Cubase, FL Studio, Ableton Live, Pro Tools and more. Extra curricular and summer programmes for youth aged 12 to 18 are also available. And of course, the training centre is equipped with the full assortment of hi-tech equipment, from digital workstations through to recording studios and more. Studio M Saigon is located at 30 Bui Thi Xuan, Tan Binh. Tel: (08) 3842 0524, email: studio-m. vn@gmail.com. The website is still under construction but can be found at studio-m.vn

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The Buzz HANDS-ON SCIENCE Science is everywhere, and in celebration of its 40th anniversary of diplomatic relations with Vietnam, the Australian government brings the wonders of the physical world to your doorstep with the arrival of Questacon’s Science on the Move touring exhibition. Engage both your mind and body with this familyfriendly, interactive exhibition with exciting shows and demonstrations on Apr. 26 and Apr. 27 at RMIT’s South Campus. Exhibition entrance is free. Events are taking place all day at RMIT South Campus on Apr. 26 and Apr. 27. For more information visit questacon.edu.au

VIETNAM’S GOT TALENT ANIMATE YOUR ARTISTIC SIDE Who says painting means staying stationary? Dispelling the myth of anchored artwork, Vin Space Art Studio helps you capture your inner Jackson Pollock with its soundtrack-enhanced Action Painting class on Apr. 25. Get inspired with a short introduction to the pioneering spirit of action painters before splashing, slathering and smearing your way to creative abandon. For more information, visit vin-space.com or visit the studio at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2. The workshop is at 6.30pm, Apr. 25

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Though the reality-gameshow haters out there may not find this convincing, once they set eyes on the cute songsters of Renaissance International School Saigon they’ll be tempted to suspend their disbelief. The little legends will take Third Floor stage at The Crescent Mall on Apr. 27, with enough songs and dances to pluck on your tender little heartstrings. Once you’ve witnessed their routines, special guest Thuy Anh (Hiro) of the original Vietnam’s Got Talent will give an example of the possibilities of such promising beginnings. The action takes place on the Third Floor of the Crescent Mall, Apr. 27 from 2pm to 3.30pm. Click on renaissance.edu.vn for more info

THE FRANCE-VIETNAM YEAR The French season is upon us, and this isn’t just about crepes and fine cheeses. On the auspicious occasion of France’s 40th anniversary of diplomatic relations with Vietnam, they’re rolling out a whole year of lectures, concerts, activities and other clever French contributions to the world. But to start everything off, they’re opening the backdoor on the operation with the second “France-Vietnam Trade Fair”. UBI France — the French agency for international trade — has recruited more than 100 companies to travel from France for the event on Apr. 7 to Apr. 9. Pharmaceutical companies, lamp makers, designers, artisanal beer brewers and more are on the list, aiming to create hundreds of connections in Vietnam in their time here. Once money has been discussed, it’s possible to approach the finer things. French love songs from the 1950s have a tremendous attraction to generations of Vietnamese, and many performers here

have built their repertoires around them. On Apr. 20 at 7pm in Ben Thanh Theatre (6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1), 11 performances will draw on their love of the French classics to remind attendees of the way things once were. Featured performers include Elvis Phuong, Quang Vinh, Trang Phap and others. Tickets range from VND300,000 to VND600,000, and are available at the Nam Phong Bookstore (94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1). Of course, there’s still vibrant, relevant music being made in France today. Fabien Mary — just nominated for a Django Reinhardt award for best jazz musician a fourth year running — will play his strongmouthed brand of trumpet at Idecaf (31 Thai Van Lung, Q1) on Apr. 23. Mary has just released a new album, Conception, and will blow originals and standards by Chick Corea and Dizzy Gillespie all over the crazy place. For more information on upcoming French events, turn to page 70

FILM SAVVI The Strategic Alliance for Vietnamese Ventures international’s TECx conference is coming to town, with the help of Mark Shapiro of Laika animation studios. Laika is the technology behind the 2009 film Coraline — the “first stop-motion feature to be conceived and photographed in stereoscopic 3D”, and a pretty cool one besides. The talk will be on the visual effects in the movie, and the digital distribution and strategies used to publicise the film when it was released. TECx’s 2013 Digital Film: Clip, Click & View featuring Coraline will be taking place at BHD Star Cinema in the Bitexco building on Apr. 17. A donation of VND200,000 is suggested, and pre-registration at bit. ly/10hh3OD is required.

April 2013 Word | 17

The Buzz OPERATION SMILE GALA DINNER Operation Smile Vietnam’s 18th Charity Auction & Gala Dinner will take place on Saturday Apr. 20 at the Park Hyatt Hotel, starting at 6.30pm. With individual tickets costing VND2.6 million or a table of 10 going for VND26 million, the event includes a gala dinner, a raffle, live music, both a silent and live auction, and a free flow of wine, beer and soft drinks. Enjoy a great evening out while helping children with cleft lips and palates get the much required surgery they need and deserve. To attend, please contact Ms Tra on huongtra.ho@operationsmile.org or call 0912 679495

INTERCONTINENTAL SAIGON GOES GREEN Taking full advantage of the sweltering sun, InterContinental Asiana Saigon recently installed a solar water heating system capable of providing water for showers, laundry, cleaning and food preparation. The luxury hotel is taking this initial step towards cutting its greenhouse gas emissions, establishing itself as an environmental leader in the hospitality game. Support InterContinental Asiana Saigon’s efforts by booking at intercontinental.com

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GULLIVER For anyone who enjoyed the recent theatrical treats offered by TNT — Macbeth and Oliver — the UK-based theatre company will be returning to Vietnam this May with Gulliver’s Travels. Described by George Orwell as one of the ten best books ever written, Swift’s masterpiece sees the protagonist, Gulliver, travel through five worlds including the world of the little people in Lilliput and Brobdignag, the world of the giants.

The stage version of this epic will be performed on May 8 at the Hanoi Opera House and May 10 and May 11 at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House. Doors open at 8pm and tickets can be purchased in advance from both opera houses (VND600,000 / VND300,000 concessions). For further enquiries email hoang.phan109@gmail.com at the Vietnamese Performing Arts Centre or Grantly Marshall on gma@adg-europe.com

THE HARD WORK OF HOPE

LIAR BEN When you first get him in conversation, you think, no, that name must be a mistake. Before long, though, you see the slightly upturned lip, the glimmer of brown eyes, the nimble hands and realise that, yes, this man is capable of some mischief. On Apr. 12, Liar Ben is getting up all over deciBel (79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh), throwing handmade buttons, canvas and illustrations of his street art into the mix. He does most of his work on walls, though — including the wall behind the bar at deciBel. This is his first show, but he’s vice art director at Zero Station (cu xa 288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3), and has a pretty cool blog besides. We caught up with him for a few words on his new directions. Word: So who’s the little monkey guy who wears the little hat? Ben: [Laughs] Monkey guy… W: What’s the mythology, what’s the story behind the monkey vgentleman? B: It’s just my new idea about the totem, when I came back from Myanmar, a street art event there. It’s not finished, I’m so lazy. I want to do a print.

W: What’s the theme behind your work? B: My name is Liar Ben, and I think everyone has a ‘something’ hat. Like you need a liar for society. I don’t want to be too serious about my work… and the totem is something you can attack, something for fighting. I call this one ‘rocket totem’. But my concept and the meaning behind my work, I think it means nothing. Ben starts clicking through his artwork, until he arrives at a familiar-looking cartoon woman, with lustrous black hair in about six parts, with a healthy peachy complexion, slapped on the side of a sugarcane cart. This, he explains, is his other project, the one there is something behind. He’s been researching her, trying to find out her origins, why she’s on the side of most sugarcane carts — except the sterile newer ones. “I want people thinking of something older,” he explains. “Because now, Vietnamese think so fast, and do things so fast, and forget about culture… I want people to think of something slowly, because I like the slow lifestyle.” Check out Liar Ben on liarben.blogspot.com, and at deciBel, 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, starting Apr. 12

On Mar. 9, a team of doctors in Hoi An teamed up with doctors from Human Medicine International Clinic from Ho Chi Minh City and Hoi An Red Cross to provide examinations, free medicine and gifts worth VND105 million for over 250 people in the Hoi An region. Saigon Entrepreneurs Club, Human Medicine International Clinic and A Dong Silk Co. Ltd., Hoi An sponsored the venture, also providing fleece blankets, milk, instant noodles and bottled purified water for the patients. 78-year-old Nguyen Thi Luong from Cam Thanh has suffered from rheumatoid arthritis for nearly 20 years. This was the first time she and many others with chronic diseases have been in contact with specialists for health, diet and lifestyle advice to help them manage their illness. Human Medicine Clinic also provides free medications for epilepsy, Parkinson’s disease and prostatitis. For more on how you can help, visit humanmedicineclinic.com

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The Buzz SATURDAYS ARE FOR SAILING Even in the chaos of the urban jungle, the adventures of the open seas are closer than you think. Explore the tranquil tributaries of Saigon far from the madness of city streets aboard one of High Tide Marina’s 20 dinghies, only a 15-minute motor yacht ride from the shore. Located opposite Cat Lai Port, sail away this weekend, with motor yachts departing every Saturday at 1.30pm sharp. The adult cost is VND840,000 with children from eight to 12 costing VND525,000 — advanced booking required. For more information visit hightidesailing.vn or call 0908 186550

RACE FOR A CURE In a Vietnam making great strides away from the ravages of the war period, Agent Orange contamination is the last sad reminder. The scary part is that it’s not just a reminder — it’s an active problem. Dioxin cleanups only began this year in the region around Danang, which will help future generations but not the estimated 200,000 people in Vietnam forced to live with the affliction — mentally, physically, emotionally. Schools of North America is taking this problem head on, with a 24-hour relay race taking place from May 10 to May 11. SNA students will form groups of 20 to 25 to tag off over the length of the 50-kilometre relay, raising money through

NY STEAKHOUSE GETS DANK The badass bacon-wrapped New York Striploin is rocking New York Steakhouse for the month of April. It’s a fine slab of steak surrounded by a delicious slice of bacon, an intense delicacy that only a New Yorker could dream up! — VND850,000 for two. In addition, NY Steakhouse are offering its customers the chance to win an iPad mini. Simply join their Facebook page on facebook.com/ newyorksteakhousesaigon and you may find yourself in line for the big prize. NY Steakhouse is at 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, or online at steakhouse.com.vn

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PLANTING THE SEED OF SIGHT pledges of VND5,000 to VND200,000 per km. During the relay, the school will put on some entertainment for spectators, including a stage production of the Jungle Book, an all-night cinema, treasure hunts, a dunk tank and an indoor night market. Funds raised will be used to support tuition fees, supplies, new computers and other necessities for Lang Tre Em Hoa Binh Peace Village. Don’t just be a spectator by being a spectator. Donate to the cause or volunteer by emailing event coordinator Robert Wilson at counseling@sna.edu.vn. The race takes place at Schools of North America, Street 5A, Trung Son Residential Quarter, Binh Chanh, starting May 10 at 3.30pm

On Mar. 12, a contact lens room sponsored by SEED, the Japanese contact lens producer, was opened at the National Eye Hospital in Hanoi. Masahiro Urakabe, the president of SEED, Director Prof. Dr. Nhu Hon, members of the board of directors from the National Eye Hospital and Tomoyose Atsuki from the Japanese Embassy joined the opening ceremony. For the correct use of contact lenses in Vietnam, SEED also held a two-day training course for 30 doctors and staff members of the National Eye Hospital and the International Eye Hospital DND. The course covered areas such as medical questionnaires, proper contact lens prescription and patient training. SEED is planning to have additional training courses for those two hospitals, and is looking forward to cooperating with many other hospitals in Vietnam.

CRICKET LEGENDS ON DISPLAY Australian cricket legends Greg Chappell, Jeff Thompson and Doug Walters will be playing a straight bat with the crowd at Q4’s Apr. 20 gala buffet dinner and memorabilia auction. Costing $US85 (VND1.7 million) per person including a free flow of beer and wine, through the MCing of Tim Gossage, these Australian hall-of-famers will tell you how the south was won. Although don’t expect too many mentions of recent England victories in the Ashes. There will also be an auction of signed cricket balls and a range of other notable cricketing memorabilia. To book your seats call Glenn on 0907 378523 or Rob on 0907 539239

CARPE DIEM ALL YOU CARPS!

EVERYONE’S A WRISTBAND HOLDER Everyone’s a DJ’s four-year anniversary is on Apr. 6, and it’s one of the highestconcept parties the indie/discopunk/ synth pop promoters have ever attempted. Scattered along Nguyen Hue and adjacent Ho Tung Mau, EADJ’s holding three all-night affairs with different vibes, accessible to anyone in possession of the VND200,000 pre-sale / VND250,000 day-of wristbands. Broma (41 Nguyen Hue, Q1) is going on a Sound Adventure with the king of nu-disco, Bottin. He hits all the requisite modes, from space disco to deep funk, retro-futuristic to straight-up electronic. As Pitchfork says, “When it comes to nu disco, Italians don’t necessarily do it better. But William Bottin makes a good case.” He’ll be supported by DJs Hibiya Line, Superkid and Glaser. Electric Kicks Live is hitting on all cylinders over at Lucca (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1), with live electronic heaviness courtesy of Unicon Sci, everyone’s favourite classical/experimental/ electronic/indie-sensibilitied post-rockers

Time Keeper, and spinning stalwarts Dan Lo and General Knappe. If you make it far enough down the road, you’ll be rewarded with an especially atmospheric edition of Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop at Retro Saigon (113 Ho Tung Mau, Q1). There’s no better place to throw this 1950s/60s/70s soulfunk-garage dance party, and EADJ has booked it to the full advantage. For the first time in the series, Scrambled Edge of dOSe will be spinning his eclectic brand of back-in-the-day soul and funk, Jake Cutlett gets into the jams via oldies and northern soul and Monkey Funk — a funk and soul night in 1990s Beijing — and co-founder Jacques Cousteau is coming out of retirement to bring some mighty mojo and Bang Bang to the festivities. This is the man behind the highest altitude dub fest in the world (Mile High Dub in Lhasa, Tibet). Expect to hear some unexpected and rare tunes. For more information, go to everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com, or just pick up a pre-sale wristband at any of the venues during business hours. The party starts at 9pm on Apr. 6

THE BEAUTIFUL GAME IN PARADISE The tranquil beaches of Phu Quoc Island will soon be descended upon by mad football fans at the 6th annual Champions League Football tournament on May 4. Mango Bay Phu Quoc invites any team ready to strut their stuff at this coveted event, at a VND735,000 registration fee per player, including inscription fee and a BBQ buffet at renowned Mango Bay Beach Bar. Enjoy the peace of Vietnam’s largest island while showing off your best footwork, all in one unforgettable day. For more information on three-for-two deals throughout summer and information on the tournament, contact Ronan at gm@mangobayphuquoc.com

There is an ancient Vietnamese legend of a little carp that somehow, in some way became a dragon. A long time ago, so the story goes, Heaven ran out of dragons to serve the Jade Emperor, the Vietnamese god of everything. He needed some new ones, so he organised a contest for all the aquatic animals — whichever species hurdled the ‘three gates of rain’ would become the new dragon. The lowly carp bravely did so, and the rest, as they say, is history. Taking on this theme of transcendence is a new international artist residency programme called carp 2 DRAGON, aiming to show all those interested the way to dragonhood — experimentation. Through a variety of performances, parties, workshops and lectures, this first edition will cover digital and community-based art and even DIY instrument making. Highlights Include: Apr. 2, 7pm to 9pm — The Freedom of Strokes by Hoang Nam Viet, Vietnam — Open Stage Le Thanh Theater (25 Phan Phu Tien, Q5) Apr. 4, 7pm to 9pm — Live Cinema: Treatment for Film in 9 Scenes by Tengal, Philippines, featuring VJ Husk, Italy — Zero Station (cu xa 288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3) Apr. 5, 1pm to 5pm — Basic Hacking & Coding for Augmented Visual Performances by Mannet Villariba, Philippines — Escuela Jaleo (38 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan) Apr. 6, 1pm to 5pm — Square [noise] DIY instrument making by Andreas Siagian, India — Open Stage Le Thanh Theater (25 Phan Phu Tien, Q5) Apr. 7 to Apr. 12, 3pm to 5pm — Common Lab Art-Mixing Playground with artists working from 10am to 5pm — Zero Station (cu xa 288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3) Apr. 11, 9pm to 10pm — Performing electronic/noise music by Nguyen Hong Giang, Vietnam — Café Thu 7-Cultural Forum (19B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3) Apr. 14 — Final Party — Super Secret Venue (contact carps2dragon@ gmail.com) For more information, click on carp2dragon.net

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In the Papers In the Papers

THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

THE GUNNERS COME TO THE CAPITAL English Premier League football club Arsenal will play a friendly at the My Dinh Stadium in Hanoi on Jul. 17 with the Vietnamese national football team, according to local reports. An Arsenal representative insisted that The Gunners will bring a team of first-string players to the capital for the evening clash. The cost for the Arsenal to come to Vietnam will be covered by the sponsors Hoang Anh Gia Lai (HAGL) Company and Eximbank. HAGL has been a fruitful partner of Arsenal in the last years with the establishment of the HAGL-Arsenal JMG football academy and the advertisements of HAGL on the Emirates stadium of Arsenal. Vietnam Football Federation deputy chairman Le Hung Dung insists the game will be a 40,000 spectator sellout, while he claims demand will triple that. The Arsenal players are scheduled to fly from Indonesia to Hanoi on Jul. 15, and join a charity activity the following day before the big game. Arsenal officials were apparently happy with My Dinh Stadium and hotels in Hanoi. No word on how they felt about the cabbies, though.

TABLETS, SMART PHONES MUSCLING OUT PCS The local PC market experienced a slowingdown of growth in the last quarter of 2012 and is likely to see an even poorer scenario this year due to increasing pressure from tablets and smart phones. About 680,000 PCs were sold in the fourth quarter of last year — the lowest rate for a long time, according to the latest industry report. IDC Vietnam’s market analyst Phan Thi Hoang Yen said PC suppliers and their distributors are now facing stockpiles of unsold PCs due to weak demand. While distributors and retailers have cut prices and introduced new models like the Ultra Slim laptop, people still seem to prefer tablets and smart phones. “In 2013, the price of Ultra Slim models will need to decrease further in order to compete with attractively priced tablets and smart phones,” she said. The economic recession was also blamed for the weak PC sales. Ah, that old chestnut.

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MGM HITS THE SKIDS Vietnam’s first resort-casino project has hit yet another snag as MGM Resorts has walked away from its contract to manage the Vung Tau facility. The MGM Grand Ho Tram resort was a co-venture of MGM and Asian Coast Development Ltd. (ACDL), a Vancouverbased company. MGM subsidiary, MGM Hospitality, had been tasked with running the facility, but the development has been fraught with delays and cost overruns. MGM filed notice with the US Securities and Exchange Commission that it was exercising its right to cancel its contract due to the project having failed to achieve certain

milestones by Mar. 1. In November, ACDL defaulted on a contract with the Ba Ria-Vung Tau provincial government due to ACDL’s failure to meet construction deadlines. That led a consortium of Vietnamese banks to suspend funding of the VND3,675 billion credit facility. MGM’s withdrawal is a significant blow to Vietnam’s desire to tap into the Asia-Pacific’s lucrative resort-casino market. Malaysian casino operator Genting abandoned its own Vietnam plans in August after failing to convince the authorities to waive its ban on local residents entering casinos, a similar concern of Las Vegas Sands.

M: 097 675 06 44 - david.shinn@alliedpickfords.com.vn M: 0122 514 1848 - joel.garbutt@alliedpickfords.com.vn

A TRIP IN (MORE THAN) A MILLION

Hanoi: David Shinn HCMC: Joel Garbutt

A British web company has begun marketing a two-year super-luxury jaunt taking in the world’s 962 UNESCO World Heritage Sites for a cool US$1.5 million per couple. The indulgent adventure, if it comes off and a couple is crazy enough, will wind its way through 157 countries — your only worry is getting the time off and finding a babysitter. Travellers will be taken to Taj Mahal in India, Stonehenge in England, Egypt’s Pyramids of Giza, Easter Island, China’s Forbidden City, Machu Picchu, the Grand Canyon, The Lost City of Petra in Jordan, the Acropolis, the Vatican City and even Halong Bay. Australia’s 19 UNESCO sites will also be covered, including the Ningaloo Coast, the Great Barrier Reef and Kakadu National Park. The company behind the trip, VeryFirstTo. com, stipulates that all destinations must be “safe and pragmatic” at the time of visit. This would rule out Sudan and certain regions of Bangladesh and Indonesia. Accommodation includes luxury hotels such as the Hotel George V in Paris, the Plaza in New York, the Cipriani in Venice, The Ritz-Carlton in Moscow and the Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai. Guided tours of the sites are included in the price, as is a US$7,300 donation to UNESCO.

MY SON TOURISM VILLAGE OPENS The central province of Quang Nam officially opened the My Son community tourism village near the World Heritage Site. The village is one the first steps towards boosting the central province’s ecotourism and sustainable tourism development programme by 2020. The village, home to over 200 people, will provide home-stay facilities and cuisine, cultural performances and eco-tours. “The province has set a target of developing its tourism industry so it can better contribute to provincial economic growth. The industry also helps to reduce poverty and create jobs for local people in remote and rural areas,” said vice chairman of the provincial people’s committee, Tran Minh Ca. He added that two more community tourism villages in Bhohoong

and Dhroong —the mountainous district of Dong Giang —would open in June. The community tourism program has benefited from the Strengthening of Inland Tourism in Quang Nam Project supported by the International Labour Organisation (ILO) with total funding of VND27.3 billion. “The project has helped to improve local people’s incomes. Before, most of them made a living through farming, but now they have another means of making money between harvests,” said Nguyen Thi Huyen from the ILO. Quang Nam Province welcomed 2.5 million visitors in 2011, 40 percent more than in 2006. Last year that figure rose to a record 2.8 million, of which 1.3 million were foreigners, earning VND1.4 trillion.

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April CALENDAR MON

HER EXHIBITION. By Demon Slayer Dan Nguyen. Through Apr. 14 @ deciBel

TUE

WED

THE FREEDOM OF STROKES. By Hoang Nam Viet. 7pm to 9pm @ Open Stage Le Thanh Theater (25 Phan Phu Tien, Q5) 2

COMMON LAB ART-MIXING PLAYGROUND. From Apr. 7 to Apr. 12, @ Zero Station

THE WANDERLUSTERS PLAY AMERICANA. 8pm @ O’Brien’s

TECX 2013 FEATURING CORALINE. @ BHD Star Cinema (Bitexco Building)

15 EARTH DAY/LENIN’S BIRTHDAY.

FABIEN MARY CONCERT. @ Idecaf (31 Thai Van Lung, Q1)

GAME OF THRONES 29 30 24 | Word April 2013

4 PERFORMING ELECTRONIC/NOISE MUSIC. 9pm to 10pm @ Café Thu 7-Cultural Forum

8 LAST DAY OF SONGKRAN — THE THAI NEW YEAR/ WATER FESTIVAL.

AUSCHAM SUNDOWNERS NETWORKING. 6pm to 9pm @ Ly Club

OPEN JAMMING SESSION. 6.30pm @ Saigon Outcast

THU

AMERICAN PSYCHO. 8pm @ deciBel

LITTLE BLACK DRESS NIGHT. Every Thursday @ Martini Bar, Park Hyatt

18 ACTION PAINTING WORKSHOP. 6.30pm @ Vin Space

24 25 LIBERATION DAY BUFFET. @ Restaurant Nineteen, Caravelle Hotel

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Apr. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

FRI

SAT

SAIGON KISS’S FIRST SHOW. 8pm @ deciBel. See Just In on page 14

LIAR BEN STREET ART EXHIBITION. @ deciBel. See The Buzz on page 19

SUN

EVERYONE’S A DJ FOURTH ANNIVERSARY. @ Broma, Lucca and Retro Saigon

CARP 2 DRAGON FINAL PARTY. @ Super Secret Venue (carps2dragon@ gmail.com)

BONNEUR TRINH SINGS. 8pm @ Tino Garden Emotion Café (347 Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q10) 14

EVERLASTING FRENCH SONGS. 7pm @ Ben Thanh Theatre (6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1)

IGGY POP TURNS 66. Happy birthday Iggy!

SCIENCE ON THE MOVE EXHIBITION. Through Apr. 27 @ RMIT South Campus

FRANCE-VIETNAM TRADE FAIR. Through Apr. 9 @ consulfrance-hcm.org

28 SAIGON TANGO BLITZ FESTIVAL. Through May 5, email tatango.vietnam@gmail.com for info

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OVER SCENE OVER FOR A CAUSE Air France gives something back at its first annual Charity Gala at The Caravelle

PHOTOS BY ALEXANDRE GAREL

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

THE MELTING POT Arts collide at Saigon Outcast’s Melting Pot multidisciplinary festival

PUMP IT! British house DJ Danny Rampling ramps it up at Blanchy’s

PHOTOS BY ALEXANDRE GAREL

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MIME Japanese master mime Iiumo Naoki hugs a balloon for Japan-Vietnam Friendship Year 2013

ST. PADDY’S McSorley’s and Jameson’s pull out the green carpet on St. Patrick’s Day

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

PHOTOS BY HARVEY MORRISON

SAIGON COMEDY NIGHTS Joey Medina and Marcus Ryan stars alongside locals Chris Baker and Andi Davies at Saigon Comedy Nights 4 at Hard Rock

PHOTOS BY ALEXANDRE GAREL

FROM ABOVE Heaven Bar hosts the latest Music.Love. Dance in transcendent fashion

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

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Find your own space MIA Resort combines traditional grace, contemporary design and luxurious style in a tropical setting that is simply perfect. Pristine beaches, international cuisine, luxurious accommodation and indulgent spa treatments create environments of pure relaxation and enjoyment.

M I A RESORT MU I NE M I A RESORT NH A TR A NG For information and bookings visit miamuine.com or mianhatrang.com

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about the experience

28 | Word April 2013

Beach front dining. International cuisine. Cocktails at sunset before nightclub entertainment. Take pleasure, any time of the day or night. sailingclubvietnam.com

ONLINE DATING / EADJ / SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY / VIVE LA FRANCE

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A 2011 3D LIGHT SHOW AT NOTRE DAME IN PARIS. SOON COMING TO THE REUNIFICATION PALACE IN HO CHI MINH CITY. IMAGE © JEAN-MARC CHARLES, SPECTACULAIRE, ALLUMEURS D'IMAGES

Insider

THE MANY FACES OF SAIGON

Living the Dream Kyo York is a household name in his adopted country, which isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bad for a poor boy from Philadelphia who arrived in Vietnam four years ago on the voluntary teaching trail. Derek Milroy gets inside the mind of the uber-confident twenty-something. Photos by Harvey Morrison

30 | Word April 2013

yo York is a rarity. He has the western swagger and confidence often seen around town, but he is not a mere bystander in history watching it all go down. He is in the middle of it. As many westerners do, he came to teach — he was part of the Princeton in Asia scholarship programme, which saw him teaching as a volunteer in a small Mekong Delta village. That seems like a lifetime ago as now, if you turn on your television, you may see his familiar face singing in Vietnamese with aplomb. He has long surpassed the fumbling attempts at ordering lunch in the local lingo and is now the real deal. Kyo speaks Vietnamese fluently, sings it fluently and is so good that when his adoring audience closes their eyes they believe he is one of their own. But when they open them again they are staring at a handsome blue-eyed, blond-haired American.

show, but it was ladies’ night in the grand finale as he surprisingly came in third behind Thuy Uyen and winner Khoi My. “Everyone was telling me I was going to win, but it was a great experience and hopefully it improves my profile,” says Kyo. “I was disappointed not to win but I feel I have won something more than money. People admire me and respect me, and you can't put a price on that.” The big moment was tinged with sadness as he ended up bursting out into tears as he spoke in Vietnamese about how much he missed his family and his mum in particular. York, whose real name is Kyle Cochrane, had it tough growing up in a poor family, needing to earn scholarships for his education. Luckily, he was talented enough to shine through.

“He doesn’t even mind people following him and staring at him more than the usual ‘look, there’s a foreigner’. It’s more like, ‘Look, there’s Kyo York, the white guy who sings in Vietnamese on TV.’”

Workaholic Deadly serious about his singing, Kyo began life as a vocalist when he was a kid, gracing the stage of the Carnegie Hall in New York as part of a choir. In Vietnam he has appeared at huge concerts nationwide. Within the circle of celebrities with whom he interacts, he is the only white face. His success hasn’t been easy but the selfconfessed workaholic has certainly put in the hours. He still practices his singing for three to four hours a day and the self-taught Vietnamese speaker — he still studies for two hours everyday — never knows when to stop. Recently he proved he’s game for a laugh by appearing on the TV show Chung Ket Guong Mat Than Quen, which saw him dress up and sing as famous Vietnamese and western — male and female — celebrities. He was most people’s favourite to win the

“I was very upset on the final show because I was hoping my mum could come from America,” he says. “It would have meant so much to me, but we are not a rich family and I couldn’t afford to buy her a ticket.”

quality to Whitney Houston. A very strong voice, remarkably powerful. She has helped me so much.” He adds: “I have achieved more here in Vietnam than I could have ever dreamed. I’ve gone from teaching English to young kids to singing Vietnamese at the biggest events in Vietnam, and I even have my own fan club. I often stop and wonder if I'm really here or if I'm in some coma in a hospital in America and just haven't woken up yet. I lead one of the most interesting and unique lives.” However, York admits there were days when he was tempted to head home. Instead of booking a flight, he started to drink heavily. A lot of his friends from the teaching programme went back to the US, but he chose to stay a little longer as he had a good feeling. Those were some of the loneliest and most trying times. “I wondered if I’d made the right decision,” he says. “I also got heavily into drinking for a short, two-month period. Looking back on it, though, I realised that was dangerous and stupid, but it stemmed from the feeling of inadequacy I had with myself and the loneliness I felt. Sometimes the feeling of the unknown really can change a person and make them do strange things. I’m lucky that I know how to remove myself and look at my life 360 degrees. This is a skill I’ve mastered from a very young age.” Now, though, those dark days are well behind him. The future is bright for York, who has become an important part of the Vietnamese entertainment scene. He doesn’t even mind people following him and staring at him more than the usual ‘look, there’s a foreigner’. It’s more like, “Look, there’s Kyo York, the white guy who sings in Vietnamese on TV.”

Darkness and The Dream That aside, York, who was brought up on the outskirts of Philadelphia, admits he feels like he is living a dream and that the last few years have been the most amazing time in his life. York hooked up with Siu Black early on, a famous Vietnamese singer who has helped develop his vocal talent. “Siu Black is unique,” he says, “because she is the only [overweight] Vietnamese singer. She is from an ethnic minority in the Central Highlands and has a similar vocal

April 2013 Word | 31

INTERVIEW

An Englishman in Hai Phong Dylan Kerr isn’t a household name in his native England, but the former Leeds United player earned his UEFA Advanced Licence in 2001 alongside current Real Madrid head coach Jose Mourinho and is now coaching in Hai Phong. Derek Milroy lends an ear to the chatty Yorkshireman. Illustration by Eddy Coubeaux

ylan Kerr is assistant coach at Vicem Hai Phong FC and has just completed a stint as assistant coach of Vietnam’s national side. He is now a household name in football circles in his adopted home — 18 months ago he was looking for something special and now he thinks he’s got it. The turnaround came after a chance meeting with his old friend Paul Mitchell from Leeds, who asked him if he was interested in coaching in Asia. After a stint in Nha Trang and on to his current employment in Hai Phong, he is on first name terms with all of Vietnam’s top players and is loving life. “Paul is based in South Africa and he was arranging moves for a handful of players from Africa to Vietnam,” recalls Dylan. “He’d heard about an opportunity and I thought ‘why not?’ The job at Khatoco Khanh Hoa in Nha Trang led to me being offered a role with former Vietnam coach Phan Thanh Hung and the national team.” Then things took a turn. “Khanh Hoa went bust before this season kicked off,” he

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adds, “but I landed the job in Hai Phong and am happy about sticking around Vietnam for a while longer. The fans in both Nha Trang and Hai Phong are amazing; they are so passionate about their teams.”

From Leeds to Vietnam Born in Malta to English parents, Kerr was a promising young left-back on the Leeds United squad which won the English First Division the year before it became the Premiership — many believe this was the last real English team to become champions. Their lineup was composed of mainly British players, although they did have a little Gallic flair added in the run-in, in the shape of a certain Eric Cantona. His former Elland Road boss Howard Wilkinson is the last English football manager to win the title — as Leeds pipped Manchester United at the death with a midfield four boasting Gordon Strachan, Gary McAllister, the late Gary Speed and David Batty. Kerr moved onto playing in the lower leagues in England, although he enjoyed a

renaissance at Kilmarnock in Scotland and is now a talented coach who has been offered jobs back in England. But he wants to help Vietnamese football flourish. “Last season was my first in Vietnam, and I enjoyed watching the games,” he says. “I keep being called a fitness coach and although that is something I helped Khanh Hoa and the national team with, I am the real deal — a fully-fledged coach with the UEFA licence to boot. I even earned my spurs with Jose Mourinho. How many people can say that?”

Local Living After spending most of his life in Britain, moving to Vietnam took some adjustment, but Kerr insists his newfound friends really know how to live. The 46-year-old hasn’t even let a horror motorbike crash get him down. He was out with friends for a few hours before riding down a Nha Trang street. The next thing he knew he was in a hospital bed. He’d been out cold for four hours. “I honestly haven’t a clue what

“Kerr’s ideas from Europe were often at odds with what members of the Hai Phong team were used to, but he reckons they will feel the benefit when their fitness and performances improve” happened,” he says. “I remember a guy was riding alongside me and boom I woke up. Apparently a taxi driver picked me up and dropped me off outside a hospital and left me there. I got put in a bed and woke up alive thankfully. My face was a mess but no broken bones. “I suppose it is just one of these things,” he reasons. “When you come to a new country you have to adapt. Everyone tells me the food is healthy, but I love the Vietnamese cuisine so much I am getting fat. I have tried everything except eating dog.” His friends back home in England questioned his decision to move to Vietnam until they talked to the passionate single man — who admits he is married to football. He’s won them over so much they are desperate to book the first flight out. They always ask him about the lifestyle

here. He admits the way of life in Vietnam is sometimes frantic, sometimes relaxed, but on the whole he loves the way people live. “Tet is something special,” he says. “I love the way it all revolves around family and I even spent my Tet with my adopted family here. I am always going on about Nha Trang to my mates back home and I tell them to come out here to visit me and this amazing place.”

Get Up, Put Up When Kerr arrived in Hai Phong it was a real wakeup call to the players, some of whom thought they were in for an easy ride. They were wrong. The Englishman has them in for extra training, extra warm-up games, preparation — and he also encourages them to watch more football.

Kerr’s ideas from Europe were often at odds with what members of the Hai Phong team were used to, but he reckons they will feel the benefit when their fitness and performances improve. “I don’t think they liked training when I arrived,” he says. “I have brought some new ideas to improve what they already learned. I’ve done loads of courses, have delivered courses all over the UK and have learnt from some of the best coaches in the world.” According to Dylan, he’s not trying to change things “as it will never work”, but he is trying to improve “the skills, the passion and the enjoyment of the game”. He adds: “I hope the players like what I’m doing, but I hear things that make me angry mostly because they have been used to easy training and easy practice — they will never have that with me.”

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ONLINE DATING

Singled Out

Deirdre Appel ventures into the weird wired world of VietnamCupid

eing a young western woman in the Asian dating world is an interesting situation. At times we feel like we’re at the bottom of the dating food chain here in Ho Chi Minh City. Most of the time western eyes are looking elsewhere, particularly at the more stylish, more petite, more accessible Vietnamese gal. Don’t get it wrong, I’m not bitter. Love transcends all races, ages, genders and cultures. My problem? I just don’t like to be left out. Why should I be excluded from a dating smorgasbord that the others can take their picks from? I want to be a part of the action, a part of the game. Come on coach, put me in! So I got motivated. With the greater portion of male attention occupied elsewhere and the revolving door of the backpacker growing tiresome (a girl can only handle so many episodes of Backpacker Idol, the competition among travellers on who backpacks best, who is more culturally conscious, who showered last), I devised a game plan to indulge in a new pool of suitors and explore what was virtually out there on the infamous VietnamCupid. Seeing as the majority of my life was already online via Facebook and Instagram, it seemed like a virtual expansion into dating couldn’t hurt. My intentions, or even expectations, weren’t to find my soulmate, Mr. Charming or true head-over-heels love. Hell, I wasn’t even sure if I wanted to go public with these dudes and venture beyond virtual exchanges. My curiosity was centred on finding out what exactly I was missing out on, what I felt excluded from. Maybe even finding out if there’s an equivalent of this western man/Asian woman weird chemistry for us western ladies. But as this endeavour continued and I began to find

out more, the less my desire to be included burned.

The Potential Candidates After jazzing up my profile, I was registered, verified and ready to go. The next day, I eagerly logged on to see if anyone had taken a bite of the bait. Instead of granting access, a message popped up informing me that my account had been terminated and there was no way to reactivate. Seriously — terminated? Who knew I could be that bad at online dating? I managed to get back on by contacting customer service and had oodles of “love interests” to tend to my slightly bruised confidence. This is exciting! I thought as I saw the potential awaiting me. I even had a notification that I was someone’s favourite. Not bad, eh? Wrong — it was bad. The average age of my courters seemed to be around 40 and that favourite happened to be a 55-year-old South Korean man with a CupidTag of ‘How about international marriage, dear?’ I had messages from men my father’s age asking to grab a drink and instant message requests from usernames like Homeless and BadBoy. I began a chat with Jon from Kuala Lumpur. The conversation was dull at best, intellectually discussing the costs of living in Southeast Asia. “Vietnam cheap. Singapore expensive. Malaysia okay.” I entertained the possibility for a few more minutes and then said goodnight. People were on here from all over the world, from back home in America to Uruguay. Call me online-dating naïve, but this was VietnamCupid, right? I thought I was expanding my options here in Ho Chi Minh City, not exporting myself to Russia for

“The average age of my courters seemed to be around 40 and that favourite happened to be a 55-year-old South Korean man with a CupidTag of ‘How about international marriage, dear?’”

love. I received a message from one user expressing his surprise to find a western girl on the site. I searched the site and he wasn’t far off, there weren’t too many. I asked my roommate her thoughts on dating here, if she’d make a profile. She didn’t seem too interested, telling me, “People don’t move here to date New Jersey girls, let’s be real.”

A Lesson Learned So far, my game has remained in the virtual world. No dates have yet to transpire in Ho Chi Minh City and I’ve decided to turn down an invite to relocate to Japan for love. But if I’m really feeling lonely, there is always 39-year-old Long, who will be here soon to visit his relatives. Maybe I’m not the hottest commodity on the street here, but that’s okay. There is always going to be a guy gawking at the hottie patottie (!) to sarcastically roll my eyes at, or an old creeper to actively avoid, or even a backpacker’s story to politely nod and smile through. But — like many of my lady friends here — I didn’t move to Vietnam to find love. And despite originally thinking I was missing out, this lack of a dating smorgasbord is just apart of the experience. The food isn’t the only thing that’s going to change when you move from New Jersey to Vietnam. Moving forward, I think I’ll stick to the traditional way of meeting people, good ol’ face-to-face interaction, even if it may take a little longer. VietnamCupid, it’s been real but I think we need a break. It’s not you, it’s me. I hope we can still be friends.

Alluring or Appalling? CupidTags add a spark of personality to your profile. They are listed underneath your name and can leave a browser thinking, ‘Mojo!’ or ‘Oh no!’ These tags produced some mixed emotions for me but to each his own, right? — My love is just a click away — Is it me you’re looking you? — USA Man Want Vet Girl — I’m Not A Sexpat — U can win if U want — Seeking Asian Princess — Life is Boring — Rusty — A true partner in life — Searching for my soulmate — Let’s sail into the sunset — Right time, right place, right person

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ONLINE DATING

Closing the ‘Net Going for a date with someone you have met through an internet dating site or just hooked up with on a social media platform can be a real minefield. Derek Milroy grabbed hold of some lonely hearts who are willing to log on for love

ary, 34, from London, was dating a girl in a no-strings attached affair in which both parties knew the score and had their fun. Her parting gift after a few weeks of encounters was a piece of paper with the address of a dating website. The banker admitted it was not exactly a romantic gesture, but then he wasn't exactly crying when she cut their fling short. However, it opened up a new world of opportunities and for that he was thankful. “I am not sure whether what she did was a bit cheeky or just giving me a helping hand,” he says. “I was based in London at the time and loads of girls there complain they don’t have time to meet someone and never met anyone sober or interesting in the bars and clubs, so they had a look online.” When he moved to Azerbaijan, Gary threw caution to the wind by logging in, spending some lonely nights on the laptop and opening up his heart. He actually had a measure of success and met a lady from Turkey — they both really clicked. She moved on to Australia and now he lives in Saigon, but they have stayed good friends and who knows — maybe their paths will cross once more. “We still talk most days,” says Gary.

real looker from the picture online, so he met her at a nice café and hoped for the best. He admits he was quite startled with her “beautiful eyes”, and she did match up to her site profile. In hindsight he was glad he stayed sober and only had a few beers. She had a slim waist, small legs and was top heavy, but he was getting more suspicious as the date moved into phase two. She asked if he wanted to go to a nightclub but the alarm bells were ringing loudly in his head and he knew he had to go with his gut feeling. “After a couple of hours in her company, I realised I was playing a role in a movie — Begbie in Trainspotting [Robert Carlyle as Francis Begbie in Danny Boyle’s British hit movie infamously almost seduced a ladyboy he met at a nightclub]. Fortunately I didn’t go as far as him and I spotted her rather large Adam’s apple and large hands before it was too late. She had a squarer jaw than me. “I am still not 100 percent,” Gary continues, “but I made an excuse that I had to go home and work online. To be fair, she asked me to jump on the back of the bike and gave me a lift home. I stopped off a few streets away mind just in case. I think I’ll leave the internet dating for a while.”

Luckless

Jen from Brisbane often finds it lonely as a single white female in Saigon as she sees most expatriate men hooking up with young Vietnamese women. She winces sometimes when she sees the old “pervs” swanning around with their new girlfriends, proud as

Gary was stuck in another singleton dilemma when he spent Tet in the ghost town of Saigon “bored out his head” and decided to give net dating another go. He set up a date for a Saturday night and thought she was a

Drastic Measures?

punch. She feels that it’s tough to meet a nice guy in this city. She gets a lot of attention from men but just not the ‘right ones’, but she is here longterm, so she has been forced to take drastic measures. She was idling one day when she saw vietnamcupid.com and thought she would take a chance. “I used to hear about people dating online and thought, ‘Oh my god, how sad,’ but I suppose the world has changed,” she explains. “A lot of people spend more time online than they do in the real world. It is maybe easier to find a guy in Australia but I love the Asian lifestyle and especially the food, so I see my long-term future here.” Jen has gone on a few online dates and met some nice guys offline, but there is a transiency to Saigon that often makes her disbelieve what she hears from would-be suitors. She also has a lot of competition from the “eager-to-please, any-westerner-will-do” local girls, the types who snap up the gullible fresh fishes out of water. “It is tough seeing all these Vietnamese women with their [petite] figures,” she says. “How can I compete with that? I have had a few ‘online’ dates but not much has come of it. Although I haven’t met a nice guy through the site, it has been good for my confidence. I have met a few guys in cafes as well, but most people just travel through. It will be difficult to meet someone stable but I’ll keep trying. It is nice to know that not all men in [this city] want an Asian wife.”

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“He admits he was quite startled with her ‘beautiful eyes’, and she did match up to her site profile. In hindsight he was glad he stayed sober and only had a few beers”

Dating Sites If you’re going to take the plunge, there are a number of Vietnamese dating sites out there. These include: banyeu.vn vietnamcupid.com vietnamesedating.net vietnameselove.com vietdating.us vietsingle.vietfun.com

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INTERNET DATING SPECIAL

Love Match So what makes two lovers compatible? According to Kaitlin Rees, the answer may just be in the zodiac. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

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Astrological Love Buffet Sometimes I find it really hard to make decisions, to choose between a pair of black and a pair of brown shoes, do I eat the noodle or the rice? Taxi or a xe om? Oh, heavens should I just walk? With such ravages of introspection, the complexity of choosing between western astrology and eastern astrology to light

Eastern Animal Signs

Rat (1948, 60, 72, 84, 96)

Buffalo (1949, 61, 73, 85, 97)

the path to one’s life partner seems overwhelming. Whose zodiac sign is more accurate? Do I identify more with my Dog sign or my Libra sign? To resolve, or further complicate the issue, see this quasi-accurate chart of love compatibility from which you can pick and choose between zodiac philosophies to suit your whims.

Western Zodiac Signs Sagittarius (Nov 22 — Dec 21)

Capricorn (Dec 22 — Jan 20)

Pisces (Feb 20 — March 20)

Date a Leo for lovemaking and freedom. Or an Aquarius. Date a Libra for nice conversation. Date a Scorpio to feel smothered.

Date a Taurus if you want your shell penetrated sensually. Date a Virgo for intellect and order. Date a Libra to have someone like your money but not your work ethic.

Date a Monkey to feel like a sex virtuoso. Date a Pig to finally be understood. Date a Tiger to feel inadequate.

Date a Rat for your soul. A Snake for your karma. Date a Dragon for sparring. Date a Goat for explosions.

Tiger (1950, 62, 74, 86, 98) Date a Cat to feel dominant. Date a Dragon for spontaneity. Date a Horse for independence.

Cat (1951, 63, 75, 87, 99) Date a Rat for fine art. Date a Dog to deal with your trust issues. Date a Buffalo to be unpampered.

Aquarius (Jan 21 — Feb 19) Date an Aries for a storm of emotions. Date a Libra for mutual play. Date a Gemini to go to new places. Date a Pisces for drama.

Date a Cancer for an ego boost. Date a Sagittarius for bed sparks and emotional letdown. Date a Capricorn and watch them not run away.

Dragon (1952, 64, 76, 88)

Date a Tiger for sturdy drama. Date a Horse for a battle of egos. Date a Cock for their courage.

Snake (1953, 64, 77, 89)

Date a Cat for cerebral stimulation. Date a Pig for constructive communication. Date a Monkey to be the most popular couple at the party.

Aries (March 21 — April 20)

Taurus (April 21 — May 21)

Horse (1954, 65, 78, 90)

Goat (1955, 66, 79, 91)

Date a Taurus to slow down. Date a Leo to practice tact. Date a Libra to temporarily fill in your gaps in personality.

Date an Aquarius to forget about sex for a little while. Date a Pisces to learn to dream. Date a Virgo for less complication.

Date a Dragon to fix the world. Date a Goat for perfect yin-yang balance. Date a Dog to speak the same language.

Date a Cock for disharmonious prodding. Date a Cat for aesthetic appreciation. Date a Rat to wake up earlier.

Gemini (May 22 — June 21)

Date a Cancer to be a prisoner in your home. Date a Leo and you can still flirt with others. Date an Aries for a partner who keeps up.

Cancer (June 22 — July 22)

Monkey (1956, 67, 80, 92)

Cock (1957, 68, 81, 93) Date a Pig for wisdom and admiration. Date a Horse for simultaneous celebration and self-destruction. Date a Dragon to respect someone else.

Leo (July 23 — Aug 23) Date a Libra for awesome sex. Date a Virgo to be kept alert. Date an Aquarius for someone to resent you.

Virgo (Aug 24 —Sept 22)

Dog (1958, 69, 82, 94) Date a Goat for a union of pessimists. Date a Monkey to be delivered from gloominess. Date a Cat and never get over it if you break up.

Pig (1959, 70, 83, 95) Date a Tiger and find a keeper. Date a Buffalo and breed quiet strength. Date a Cock to draw out hidden feelings.

Libra (Sept 23 — Oct 22) Date a Scorpio and feel the wrath of jealousy. Date a Taurus for music and art appreciation. Date a Pisces to practice sulking.

Date a Snake for tireless physical attraction. Date a Buffalo for a wet blanket. Date a Tiger to build distrust.

Date a Capricorn to be ignored. Date a Scorpio for force and domination. Date a Sagittarius to experience jealously.

Date a Cancer for codependence. Date a Capricorn for ordered love. Date an Aries for freshness.

Scorpio (Oct 23 — Nov 21) Date a Leo for stormy sex. Date a Sagittarius to understand your lack of control. Date a Gemini for imagination and self-doubt.

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Q&A

Not Just For Everyone This month, Everyone’s a DJ celebrates its fourth anniversary of funky, basement-style parties in Ho Chi Minh City. Nick Ross spoke with Linh Phan about what’s behind, and what’s ahead. Photos provided by Linh Phan

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WHAT WAS THE REASON FOR STARTING EADJ? EADJ started because I missed going out to clubs and hearing music that I liked. A lot of my friends felt the same way and one day while at a party, I met and started talking to Thomas Maresca. He had always thought about starting a party as well. We both missed going to grimy basement parties, like the ones we used to go to in New York and Toronto. So we said why not... let’s try our hand at it.

WHAT WAS THE CONCEPT BEHIND THE ORIGINAL NIGHTS? THE concept was simple. Create a dance

party with a DIY aesthetic that was heavily rooted in art, film and design — that played indie electro, 1980s new wave and 1950s and 1960s. Basically stuff that you wouldn’t hear at your typical Ho Chi Minh City clubs. We encouraged and collaborated with various creatives and gave people the opportunity to express their creativity in a space that they normally wouldn’t be able to. We continually get asked by local DJs to play our parties, because they know that they would be able to play stuff that they wouldn’t be able to at their regular DJ gigs around town.

HAS IT CHANGED OVER TIME? THE party has evolved over the past years.

We’ve added other parties to the mix, such as the 1950s/1960s rock ’n’ roll Motown dance party, Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop and the 1980s dance party, Mixed Tape. We’ve also done band showcases that started before the DJs, that featured independent indie and electronic live performances playing original music. And recently a new dance party project started along with Hibiya Line (Dan Bi Mong), called Sound Adventures, which focuses on bringing international and regional artists to Ho Chi Minh City. Past artists include Voodoo Frank, Maft Sai (Zudrangma Records), Masa (Giant Swing), Digital Natives (Switzerland), Trus’Me (Prime Records, UK) and Bottin (Italy).

ironic name. Since then I think it has spawned a secondary meaning with that DIY spirit of inclusion which is what the parties are all about.

WHAT WERE YOUR FIRST EVENTS LIKE? OUR first party had around 30 people in

attendance, but as the parties kept going word of mouth spread from the people who attended. I remember after the first party a couple of the people who came brought around 15 others to the next party. And that kept going and going.

HOW TOUGH HAS IT BEEN TO FIND GOOD VENUES AND MAKE THE FINANCIALS WORK FOR YOU? ONE of our toughest challenges is finding

a suitable venue. Finding a good venue that is supportive and suitable for the parties has been an uphill battle. I’ve been lucky in finding a few [places] that have been supportive, but I’ve had some battles. Also as we tend to hold parties in bars or cafés that don’t have a proper sound system or setup, we’ve had to charge for events in order for us to cover all of our costs. I think that was also a challenge in a town where people were used to going to dance clubs and events for free.

WHAT ARE YOUR BEST MEMORIES? HAVE THERE BEEN ANY DISASTERS ALONG THE WAY? THERE have been some great moments

along the way. The giant glittery old letters telling people to dance, the flash mob to Daft Punk’s Around the World at Cage, having Architecture in Helsinki’s Super Melody play… and also the Voodoo Frank gig was a big highlight. Frank played for five hours straight and called it one of his top five gigs in 19 years of DJing. In terms of disasters, we’ve been lucky and haven’t had any major disasters (knock on wood). Also I’m used to putting out fires, so any problems get resolved before they get any bigger.

with three different sounds. Since EADJ holds different kinds of parties, I thought it would be fun to have three different venues representing our parties — all within walking distance of each other, so people can go around to different venues throughout the night and check out the different [tunes] and DJs. The first venue, Broma (41 Nguyen Hue, Q1), will host our Sound Adventures party. We’re flying in the king of nu-disco, Venicebased Bottin, to help us celebrate. Support is by Glaser, Hibiya Line and Superkid. The second venue, Lucca (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1), will host Electric Kicks Live, which will feature live performances by Uncon Sci and Time Keeper, with support by DJs Dan Lo and General Knappe. And for our last venue, Saigon Retro (113 Ho Tung Mau, Q1), we’ve got our 1950s and 1960s dance party, Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop. This time we’re adding in some funk to the mix. Our guest DJs are Scrambled Edge from dOse, Jake Catlett and Jacques Cousteau, who used to hold funk nights in the early 1990s in Beijing.

WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF EADJ? WE’D like to continue with the band

showcases. The problem is trying to find good indie, electronic and alternative bands creating original music. We’re also looking to bring in more regional and international acts and working more with different promoters around the region. For more information on the EADJ scene, click on everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com

WHY THE NAME? WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM THE name came from a time when everyone YOUR FOUR-YEAR ANNIVERSARY in this town was calling themselves a DJ CELEBRATIONS ON APR. 6? from so and so country. Having a sincere WE’RE super excited for the anniversary. respect for the form, I came up with the

We’ll be holding the event in three venues

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Lifestyles What does Ho Chi Minh City mean to you? How does settling in this city affect the way you live? In an attempt to get an answer we spoke to city inhabitants from all walks â&#x20AC;&#x201D; from the farmers in Thanh Da Island, one of the last rural, Mekong Delta-like communities left in central Ho Chi Minh City, to female Vietnamese office workers, people encamped in the suburb-like, pseudo compounds of The Manor and Saigon Pearl, and a legendary, wheeler-dealer Slovakian who left the city VND1.52 billion richer than when he arrived only a few years before. Through their stories we get a sense of the growing cosmopolitan nature of this city. No longer a metropolis promoting just the one, widely accepted way of living, now you can be almost anyone or anything you want to be. The pressures of conforming to the accepted norms still exist, but their ties are no longer as overbearing as they were a decade ago. And through the simple habits of people like those featured, the world of Ho Chi Minh City is getting bigger every day.

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The Bia Hoi Lady The matriarch of Bui Vien’s beer stalls talks about her popular draught with David Robinson. Photo by Alexandre Garel

ia hoi — Vietnamese draught rice beer — is a thriving culture in Hanoi, but much less so in Saigon. In fact, in the tourist district there is only one woman who sells the locally produced, unregulated brew. She is an 82-year-old Saigonese grandmother with a friendly smile but stern attitude who calls herself Sau (a nickname for the fifth child of a family in Vietnam, the number one being forbidden). She has been selling beer on Bui Vien for 13 years. “Sure, I’m one of the only ones,” she says. “I sell beer and I don’t bother anyone or cause problems. I just focus on making the customers happy and things pretty much take care of themselves.” She speaks with a pleased and relaxed smile, as she brushes some wisps of grey hair from her forehead in the warm afternoon breeze. Stepping down to the sidewalk below to serve some newlyarrived tourists from today’s keg, she leans on my shoulder for support. A long history of me turning up a little before 3.30pm — as she’s eating her dinner, and during Bia Tuoi 33’s (102 Bui Vien, Q1) switch from daytime eatery to nighttime hotspot — has led her to think of me as a fixture, much like the furniture she shuffles about.

Tough as Nails Sau likes the foreigners, though she watches them like a studious hawk when it gets busy. They keep her feeling youthful. “I like Bui Vien because it is different each day,” she explains. “There are always new faces and new customers, and unexpected things always happen.” You might think a lot has changed in almost a decade-and-a-half, but Sau sees things differently. “Nothing has changed, really,” she says noncommittally. “Just the price of the beer.” In her surefooted and stubborn way, she makes a good case. “Oh sure, it’s much

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more busy now,” she says. “There are more people. But it’s still all same same. People arrive from many countries, they come here and look at things, take a lot of pictures and they drink beer.” Working for six to eight hours a day, seven days a week, she opens the bar in the afternoon and retires early when possible. “My daughter helps me,” she explains. Some longtime customers help her as well, and on many nights you can see young Vietnamese guys pouring beer and picking up glasses while she’s bringing in tables or rolling in the awnings. Always busy, Sau prefers not to sit down, but constantly buzzes around, moving people and chairs in and out during busy or quiet periods, sweeping up or putting out the call when the authorities come through — yelling “Nhanh! Nhanh!” which signals those less alert to rush out and pull all the overflowing customers in off the road. I ask her whether the backpackers and ignorant tourists frustrate her. Watching her grab the backs of occupied chairs and shift them around, it sometimes seems that way. She takes the opposite tack, saying, “The thing I love the most is the customers who come regularly. The ones who turn up early every afternoon to have a few beers after work. They are friendly and smile a lot.” Some things do stay the same at least. Whether the price goes up or the restaurants change, to Sau it’s always about bums on seats and beer in their glasses. “Many customers come here and drink beer and then go back to their home country,” she continues. “But give them two years and so many of them come back for more. I once had one customer who left something behind. Two years later they returned to drink beer again and I was able to return it to them. They always come back. They like the beer.”

“You might think a lot has changed in almost a decadeand-a-half, but Sau sees things differently. ‘Nothing has changed, really,’ she says noncommittally. ‘Just the price of the beer’”

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The Frequent Flyer

Chris O’Dempsey reflects on 23 years in and never completely out of Vietnam. Words by Ed Weinberg, photos by Kyle Phanroy

“I

t was way, way, way before [Vietnam opened up to the modern world]. I mean I was a pastor, when I came here I was smuggling Bibles. There were no cars — that’s a lie, there were some old Citroëns and Peugeots and a dozen other cars — there was a number of motorbikes, and everybody rode pushbikes. No one spoke English. All the buildings had barbed wire around them. The airport was a tin shed.” This is the Vietnam Chris O’Dempsey first came into 23 years ago. Sitting in the comfortable environs of the New World Hotel’s lobby — his NGO Heart Reach Australia’s partner, along with UPS, on his ambitious new undertakings — Chris smiles as he recalls all this. In a few days, 20 of his charity’s young charges will bus up from the Mekong and take in a day of New Worldsponsored swimming and cooking lessons. It was a long way to get to this. He’s made three or four trips a year ever since his first, on which he found himself visiting the children’s ward of the Dien Bien Phu Eye Hospital. “I saw babies nine months old with glaucoma and cataracts. And I said, ‘Why?’ It came down to trauma, because so many used open fires, so much ash and stuff, congenital diseases. A lot of it was totally preventable.” Heart Reach Australia has brought vaccinations, diabetes checks, eye testing, health education, water safety training and scholarships to destitute parts of the Mekong and Central Vietnam. They’re working on a

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medical ambulance boat to service their Ben Tre clinic in the Mekong, an idea they hope others will emulate. And even the swim class at New World is important — as more than 6,000 children drown in Vietnam every year. They’ve done all this, says Chris, not by telling people what to do, but by asking. “What are the problems you are facing? What are the biggest issues in your life… and how do you think we can work with you to overcome them?”

“If you’re living in a nation where… 99 percent are poor, then your vision’s going to be around poverty. [23 years ago the people here] had no examples. All they knew was they didn’t want to be poor” He adds: “That’s how we start to deal with these issues. It comes back to education, it comes back to communication, and working with them to provide those things.”

The View from 10,000 Metres Chris lives his life on two continents, with a Vietnamese wife of 15 years and grown children in Australia, and a dozen semiadopted children in Vietnam he talks with regularly. This constant shift has given him an interesting perspective on life here. “I’ve noticed a change,” Chris says. “23 years ago, you’d ask [kids here] what they wanted to do and they had no vision. They knew nothing. They had no colour televisions. “All they knew was what their family had done. And if you’re living in a nation where… 99 percent are poor, then your vision’s going to be around poverty. They had no examples. All they knew was they didn’t want to be poor.” Through his work, Chris has seen this all slowly change firsthand. “There’s been this big jump in vision and expectation and goals,” he says. “Now when you ask a young person what they want to do, they say, ‘I want to be in business, I want to travel.’” And he hasn’t been a bystander — Vietnam has also changed him. “It’s given me a better balance on humanity — which sounds trite, but it’s not. Because the Vietnamese bring something to the table that westerners don’t have. If you drive down the road… and someone cuts you off, [Vietnamese people] just stop and keep going. In Australia there’d be a handgun through the windscreen.” “There’s an acceptance — this is life.” Find how you can help at heartreachaustralia.com

“I had some VND80 million left, just like when I started working, back to the same. I took a picture of it and added one zero to make it look like I had 10 times more, and see how it feels having that much money”

The Saver Ed Weinberg learns how to budget from legendary stasher Edo Rauscher. Photo by Alexandre Garel

his town can be ruin for those without self-control. With cheap food and drink options right outside your door, it’s tempting to go out all the time, pulling banknotes from a wallet squeezed tight by recession logic. Edo Rauscher avoided those temptations, and came out of his three years in Ho Chi Minh City VND1.52 billion richer than he was on the way in. Now living in Taiwan and working on opening a capsule-style hostel like they have in Japan, the Slovakian national didn’t start his saving right away. “Living in Saigon was amazing, I loved it right away,” Edo recalls. “The craziness, mess, something you don't see anywhere else. I've been to 40 countries, and after just going from place to place all the time, you get exhausted and your bank account does, too.” At first Edo did the teaching thing, and did it well. He did a six-month tour of duty at an international school, teaching science and maths in the mornings, English in the afternoons. By the end of his contract, the travel bug hit. He tried teaching gigs in Ha Long Bay and Hanoi before ending up in Ho Chi Minh City again, back where he started. “When I got back I was broke again,” Edo says with a touch of exaggeration. “Sitting in my room in front of my computer, holding a bank statement, I saw I had some VND80

million left, just like when I started working, back to the same. I took a picture of it and added one zero to make it look like I had 10 times more, and see how it feels having that much money.”

Getting Thrifty He started to save. He would make it through the workweek on VND60,000 a day, eating two meals in a street stall and one banh mi roadside. Weekends were a bit more expensive, but he wore shorts all the time so he wasn’t able “to go to fancy places. I was hanging around Bui Vien in cheap places outside. I'm a hardcore saver.” Still he was a long way off. Getting his calculator out, he tried to figure how long it would take him to reach the promised land on VND30 million a month. To achieve his goal, he would have to get creative. He started to sell human hair. Edo had a friend back home who routed it to paying wigmakers, an arrangement worth VND8 million a week. But soon the orders dried up, the textural difference between European and Asian hair too great to bridge. Edo had other ideas, chipping away at his goal all the while. He taught business English, educating himself along the way on photocopied business books purchased on Le Lai for VND100,000 each. Then he got

into the bike game. Buying bikes off tourists, he managed to flip them at double or triple their cost. When he got into more expensive bikes, he would rent them first until he had his investment back, then sell them for a pure profit. He became known for this and had bikes coming to him through all channels. On one he netted VND20 million. He left Vietnam for Taiwan in 2012, taking his restless entrepreneurialism with him. He’s since set up a ‘virtual hospital’ uniting practitioners of alternative medicine, getting a cut of every sale. The hostel — which he plans to build, then sell — is under construction, the first in a future chain. For those stuck in the paycheck-topaycheck cycle, Edo offers hope. “Everything is possible,” he says. “You just need to start with simple things. You have to accomplish something every day so you can get closer to your goal. You can’t get distracted — clear your head, meditate for 10 minutes a day, visualize your goal every day.” He adds: “Business, it's like your girlfriend. There is no right one, you have to make it work.” For more inspiration, check out Edo’s bible by Googling ‘instant start-up guide entrepreneur’

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Off ice Girls Over casual Friday beers, Ed Weinberg learns what career girls really want. Photo by Alexandre Garel

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e’re sitting at a street stall — a good little bap bo place on Ham Nghi — and the girls are licking their workweek wounds. “I used to believe in my job,” says Hien, after dishing quite liberally on her work. “So whatever my boss said, I would swallow word by word. You know what I mean, I believed everything.” “When did you stop believing?” Phuong asks. “Actually, after one year,” Hien says. “So, for two years you lived in disbelief?” These are all lapsed career girls, their belief lost somewhere on the path between dedicated student and entry-level cog. They

have good jobs — Phuong, Hien and Tram at a PR firm, Thao in a bank — but the smell of success has worn off. They’ve taken the red pill. They might be capitalism dissenters, the type who point out that money is just a piece of paper that’s captured the popular imagination, in another life. Or perhaps in this one.

The Dark Humour of Disappointment I have a theory: the routine sacrifice of working life is made even tougher for young women in Vietnam, as a legion of family members ask about nonexistent boyfriends and employers exercise their power with a lack of restraint bordering on

the sociopathic. The girls do a good job dispelling this, somewhat. “We are in the lucky group,” Phuong says. “It’s a little different from the common perception. I know these things exist, I listen to these stories when I do consumer research, with these people.” I bang on with my marriage-pressure angle, and get a little response. “In Vietnam,” Tram says, “all the women get married at 25, and now—” Phuong interrupts her, “—we’re 26.” Tram says, “Actually, I’m 25.” Phuong says, “Actually, I’m 25 too.” All the girls laugh at this. None expect to get married in the next year. Phuong and Thao met on a weekend trip to Nha Trang — not having any collaborators on their spur-of-the-moment plans, they were both going up on their own. Unlike the majority in this still-developing country, these girls have opportunities like this on a regular basis, travelling for work or just to get away. “That story never dies,” Phuong says as soon as I mention it. It’s a bit of an inside joke, this solitary adventure they’re on. But still, the lame parts of their luckiness only cause them groans. “The depressing thing,” Phuong makes clear, “is we got pushed into this job and we’re not happy about it. “The question you should ask is — ‘Are you happy with what you’re doing with your life?’ And the answer we will give is we’re not.”

Thao took her bank job on graduating university three years ago, and has been trying to get out of it ever since. She’s kept complacent by likeable colleagues and a tolerable atmosphere, rather than anything that fulfills her. But it’s still a better situation than most. “In the Vietnamese working environment, people are just fighting each other,” she says. “People envy each other.” What would she do if she had the choice? “Maybe do something crazy, don’t make money.” A pause. “I want to be a farmer,” she shines on, “all my life I wanted to be a farmer.” Spurred on by our smiles, Thao continues, “I want to think. I want to go around the world. I want to do something precious on the way.” It’s a good environment for dreaming, and Phuong tells us her idea. “Make some tofu,” she tags on to Thao’s yearning. “You have to try — it’s good!” When the giggles subside, Phuong becomes serious again. “The thing is,” she says, “we always want something by ourselves, we want to do something, create something real, as opposed to all the sh*t we say at work.”

The One Who Got Away Hien is leaving next month, to travel to Korea, Myanmar and Japan. She’s quitting her job to take this three-month trip. While she’s reciting this plan, Phuong interjects — “Indochina by bike!” Her journey seems to stand for them all, as an example of what could be, of what’s waiting out there. I ask why she’s leaving her job. “Why?” she repeats, pondering. “I’m kind of, like, heading off.” Another pause. “It’s just like [Phuong] says, f*ck that sh*t.” She takes a moment to articulate this deep, long-forming impulse, and when she resumes talking she has her reason. “I think everyone here has to-do lists. I have a few things I would like to do, but I was scared to do before.” I’ve been there myself. Sometimes a paying job can seem like the best thing in the world — even if it’s not. Lip service paid, Hien tells us what’s compelling her to leave a promising career for the unknown. “I’ve been dreaming,” she says, in this unhurried, full-sentence way that makes the others laugh, then continues, “to visit Japan — so that’s the reason.”

“It’s an elaborate hoax,” Phuong says. “[The job] makes you feel like what you’re The Problem with doing is important, and Longing you pride yourself for One of Phuong’s great disappointments came working so hard, and in an Italian art event you go out with each she organised for a client. It was supposed other and say, ‘I’m so to be an intersection between her work busy!’ … You’re doing and passions, proof really nothing good. the two could coexist and even benefit You sell stuff. You from one another. She hung overblown move things from one film stills of all the corner to another” “too-beautiful-to-bein-this-world women” from the annals of Italian film, including that “voluptous, impossibly beautiful blonde” in La Dolce Vita. No one came. This was a step on the way to realising the hollowness of her daytimes. “It’s an elaborate hoax,” Phuong says. “[The job] makes you feel like what you’re doing is important, and you pride yourself for working so hard, and you go out with each other and say, ‘I’m so busy!’ “You’re doing really nothing good. You sell stuff. You move things from one corner to another.”

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“You’re barefoot, and that’s so appealing. It feels casual, as if you’re [dancing] at a festival”

The Dancer Karen Hewell gets hip to the fit, fun world of belly dance. Photo by Kyle Phanroy

ith its ceiling of heavy jeweltoned drapery and hushed conversations around candlelit tables, Beirut (74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1) is not like most other restaurants. In The Refinery courtyard next to other nightlife magnets, this Lebanese gem draws its clientele on more than just shisha and drinks. A palpable anticipation looms — everyone looks expectant, eyes darting around, waiting. Suddenly, chiming rhythms spill over the speakers as a woman draped in vivid silks comes sweeping between the tables. Her movement is entrancing — flirtatious glances and smiles catch diners by surprise while the bells around her swinging hips match the infectious cadence of the music. This is not your typical evening in Saigon. While the jewels on her costume shimmer under the lights and her hair sways seductively, you might forget you’re in Vietnam at all.

Somewhere in Between This captivating display is belly dancing, a performance art believed to have originated in the Middle East, but evidence of its genesis remains relatively scarce. Despite its ancient origins, belly dancing only broke

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onto the Ho Chi Minh City scene with the opening of Saigon Bellydancing Studio (saigonbellydance.com) in 2008. It was here that it took on some distinctively Vietnamese influences. “It’s a fusion,” says Hannah Jefferys, a two-year resident of Ho Chi Minh City and student at Saigon Bellydance. “They use fans as a prop during performances quite a lot here, which they don’t traditionally. Some of it is recognisable as Vietnamese.” More than just a cultural fusion, belly dancing became a compelling fitness alternative for Hannah. “I used to do yoga quite regularly, and I wanted to do something different,” she says, recalling her start in belly dancing nine months ago. “Belly dancing is kind of fun. [In belly dancing] you’re barefoot, and that’s so appealing. It feels casual, as if you’re [dancing] at a festival.”

Dancing with Myself “In most dancing you need a partner, [but] belly dancing is solo,” Saigon Bellydance Studio founder and teacher Tran Thi Kim Ngan explains, painting belly dancing as a unique version of independent fitness. Belly dancing, though, combines an opportunity not just for slimming down, but also for

self-expression. “When you dance, you open yourself. You can express personal characteristics.” Ngan smiles while she pulls her hands over her head rhythmically, tracing little circles in the air with her fingertips. “You feel the music.” Cultivating an environment of blissful abandon seems to be a central theme to belly dancing, as Ngan describes how performances are often completely improvised and rely on a dancer’s connection with the music. This expectation extends beyond seasoned performers. “When a student comes to my dance studio they […] have to keep in mind that they are a learner,” Ngan says. “They come to class to learn, not to be nervous.” The promise of infectious beats, the barefooted abandon of worry and a unique occasion for self-expression seems to make belly dancing the perfect opportunity to shake off some inches — literally. But what of the less coordinated and exceptionally shy? “If you come to class you have to enjoy yourself, you can’t care about other people,” Ngan says seriously, pausing. With a little smirk, she adds, “We teach you to be confident.”

The Flashpacker Over the past five years a new phenomenon has emerged — flashpacking. Nick Ross encounters one of this new breed on Bui Vien. Photo by Alexandre Garel

F “Some street food stalls are pretty dirty here. My girlfriend even purchased some wooden chopsticks so we could eat with clean utensils”

or Dan, Ho Chi Minh City and in fact most of Vietnam is like a dream. Not so much because of the cultural and travelling interest that he has discovered here, but because of the free WiFi everywhere. “It’s certainly better than back home,” says the Englishman. “Even Bangkok, KL and Singapore are worse than Vietnam. There you have to pay.” The convenience was unexpected — like so many other travellers coming to Vietnam he had no idea that the internet experience was so readily accessible. But it was certainly very welcome. “I go everywhere with my iPhone and iPad,” he explains over his Saigon Red on a cafe in Bui Vien. “It helps me maintain my blog. But with so much WiFi around it’s been too good. I’m spending far too much time online rather than focusing on my travels.”

Flash or Trash? Dan is what may be termed a flashpacker, something he vehemently denies — “I don’t stay in five-star hotels.” Yet together with his partner he does admit to having taken advantage of a package deal at one of the better resorts in Mui Ne. The diametric opposite of the tay ba lo, the much sneered at backpacker for whom travelling on a budget is paramount, the flashpacker has money to spare and doesn’t mind mixing some comfort with some rough. After all, as Dan says, “You can’t stay in dorms every night of your life.” Flashpackers quite literally travel with ‘flash’ equipment — iPhones, iPads, DSLR cameras and laptops — and they don’t hesitate to spend on a good night out on

the town. They also split the journey up with the convenience of flights rather than buses, and they avoid independent travel, tending to take the pre-organised tours and sticking to familiar routes. In Vietnam this means up and down Highway 1, the Mekong Delta, Dalat, Sapa and Halong Bay. But the key difference, say the online bloggers who have tried to understand the flashpacking phenomenon, is the search for ‘authentic’ experience. Going on Dan’s tales of his two weeks in Vietnam, little has been ‘authentic’. The only Vietnamese he’s met are working in restaurants, bars, hotels or on tour buses. Conversation has been minimal and he feels that while he’s gotten a sense of what the country looks and feels like, the people remain a mystery. “They’re pretty aggressive on the sales front,” he says. “And I always feel like I’m trying to make sure I’m not getting cheated.” This is a far cry from being invited into people’s houses as a guest or meeting locals in the middle of nowhere who take you in, regardless of who you are, and just because you are there. I ask him if he’s ever drunk in the mot, hai, ba, vo fashion, he shakes his head. And he’s certainly never tried the street food, at least, not the street food sold outside the tourist areas. “We were intending to,” he says. “My cousin was here a couple of years ago and gave me a list of what dishes we should try and eat. But we’ve been pretty concerned about the hygiene. Some street food stalls are pretty dirty here. My girlfriend even purchased some wooden chopsticks so we could eat with clean utensils. But we just haven’t got round to it yet. I guess neither of us wants to have stomach problems.”

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Manor Life Like gated compounds, the suburb-like Manor and Saigon Pearl offer a lifestyle that keeps its residents detached from the city. But is such detachment really so desirable? Words and photos by Galen Stolee

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April 2013 Word | 53

hen Mike Olson first stepped out of a taxi and into Nguyen Thi Minh Khai’s Hem 18A, a full four months after moving to Ho Chi Minh City, a curious feeling washed over him: he had just entered Vietnam for the first time. Loud motorcycles zipped by. Curious aromas filled the air. A cacophony of voices — families bickering, friends laughing and children yelling — surrounded him. There was an energy here unlike anything he’d every experienced. So how had it taken so long for all this to be introduced to him? How can you live in a city but not actually live there at all? The answer, Mike says, has a lot to do with the area of the city he was placed into and lived for those first few months, a collection of towers settled on the border of District 1 and Binh Thanh, collectively titled The Manor. Completed respectively in 2007 and 2009, the apartment complexes The Manor and Saigon Pearl, located across the street from each other on Nguyen Huu Canh in Binh Thanh, have in the past few years seen a steady flow of both temporary and longterm residents from Vietnam and around the world. Both complexes boast an impressive

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selection of facilities, everything from gyms to restaurants, as well as cleaning and delivery services directly to apartments — the sum of which offers the option of a completely self-contained life, set apart from the manic outdoors. It’s an attractive prospect. The first thing you notice when entering either The Pearl or The Manor is how quiet it is. Whether it’s a Friday afternoon or a Sunday morning, there seems to be an almost unnerving level of silence around here, in stark contrast to the busy streets located just a few hundred feet off in any direction. Surrounding each tower are large courtyards, filled with wellmanicured trees and gardens, and plenty of benches for sitting, most of which are empty during the week. Most residents can only be seen for a few moments, between exiting their taxis and making their way through the front door. On weekend evenings, however, these courtyards come alive with activity, as couples meet for dinner at the cafés, parents take their stroller-borne toddlers for walks and kids ride around on scooters and bicycles.

The Prefabricated Life It’s on one of these nights, sitting by The

Pearl’s poolside café, that I meet Boris Gueudin, a three-month-detainee who tells me about another side to life in the towers. “There are some people you’ll never see,” he says. “They spend all their time inside, with their doors closed.” Boris recalls moving from the My Phouc building nearby in Binh Thanh, where families would leave their doors open, allowing air — as well as noise and cooking smells — to pass through the halls. Unlike his previous residence, he observes, the doors of The Pearl are usually shut tight. This move has had a profound impact on Boris’ experience of the city. “Before, I felt like I was living in Vietnam. Now it feels like I have to leave the city to come into this place. It’s like an embassy.” This transition is an exact mirror image of Mike Olson’s experience. When he first came to Vietnam, Mike was convinced that living in The Manor would allow him the perfect mix of western comforts and access to the city proper. What he didn’t expect, however, was to fall headfirst into a kind of ‘prefabricated lifestyle’ that came packaged with the apartment. “I would only go to places that were recommended to me,” Mike explains. “My

time between countries. She says a large portion of the residents of The Pearl can be broken down into two categories: those that come from wealth and appreciate the level of status and sophistication The Pearl offers, and others who have lived in less ideal conditions, and now simply want a bit of respite from the difficulties of city life. Alice herself is from the latter category; the daughter of a factory worker in Korea, she studied design and came to work in Vietnam for a marketing company five years ago. While her decision to live in The Pearl came from the desire to have a Korean-style apartment with a nice view, she knows plenty of wealthy foreigners and Vietnamese for whom the name recognition of ‘The Pearl’ is worth the price of admission.

The Vertical City

idea of going out was eating lunch at Pho 24 and dinner at KFC. I had a kitchen, but I never cooked, because everything was there in front of me. My kitchen was for storing beer.” The prefab lifestyle also extended into his personal life. Mike felt like his circle of friends was ever-narrowing, and his extra-work activities repetitive and limited to a few select spots around town. “I felt like I needed to perpetuate this image that [coworkers and friends] had of me. I had to be seen in a collared shirt, at Apocalypse Now, on the dance floor,” he recalls with more amusement than embarrassment. “Who’d have thought I’d travel 10,000 miles just to hang out with more gelled-up douchebags?” After a few nights experiencing the hospitality and diversity of Hem 18A, drinking cheap beer and eating home-style cooking with young locals and foreigners, his eyes were opened. “Unlike the Manor, within this world I had nothing to prove,” he observes. He moved out to a small house on 18A and has never looked back. Alice Park, a resident of the Topaz 2 tower of The Pearl, says Mike’s experience is common among businessmen living in the complex, especially those that divide their

For most residents of both complexes, ease of use is a major plus. The Pearl contains a fitness club, pool and spa, outdoor restaurant, salon, grocery store, 24-hour quick shop, laundry and maid service. The Manor trumps even this, adding a number of fast-food restaurants, two bank branches, a travel agency and even a full-service dental clinic. Jordan Howard, who lives in The Pearl and spends most of his time in District 1, admits that the facilities “can keep [you] in the complex for days.” But unlike some of the residents of the complexes, Jordan and others like him aren’t quite ready to completely remove themselves from the street culture they know and love. In fact, for Edge Pamute, who also lives in the Topaz 2 tower, staying close to the city was exactly his reason for moving into the Pearl. “A lot of people need more space when they have kids, and end up moving to District 2 or 7,” Edge says. “It’s nice to have a big villa, but now you’re in this gated community, miles outside the city centre. This way, you get a lot of the same advantages, but you’re still only five minutes away from downtown and all the organised chaos.” Edge says that controlling this chaos was another major factor in his decision to move into the Pearl, especially when it came to his 14-year-old daughter, Zoe. “Where we were living before [in District 4], I wouldn’t feel comfortable having her roam around on her own.” But with the security that The Pearl offers, Edge doesn’t feel like he has to watch her so closely. Zoe, who attends school in An Phu, seems to appreciate the freedom. “I spend a

lot of time over at my friends’ apartments, and can easily go downtown in a taxi to see a movie if I want.” Not all kids get the same degree of autonomy, however. Sam, a 13-year-old attending The Pearl International School, says that his life mostly involves going from his apartment to school and back. Though he doesn’t get many chances to go into the city, he doesn’t seem to feel that he’s missing much. “The city is very noisy, and dangerous,” he says. “Here is much more peaceful, and I have everything I need.”

Upward Mobility There’s a prevailing feeling among those that have lived in the city for years and are now choosing a more comfortable, controlled environment. “The main thing you are buying is the stress-free area,” Jordan says. “That’s enough of a retreat from the frenetic street life that I walked out to and loved for my first four years in Vietnam. Now I can love the street life when I want, but I can also stay away from it when I want.” In other words, there comes a time when you’ve paid your dues and simply want a higher standard of living. If you ask most people, they’ll agree that Ho Chi Minh City has its fair share of downsides. Noise, dirt, a lack of security and stability. But beyond just being simple annoyances, these things are all part of the defining character of the city. We may try to limit our experience of these things, to try to maintain a little bit of order among all the chaos. But we can’t deny that by doing so, we are fundamentally altering our relationship with the city, and by extension everyone else living within it. In the end, as Boris says, it’s all about finding a balance. “There is a tendency to wake up in the morning, get some food sent to your room, crash in bed for a few hours and then jump in the pool, without ever stepping outside.” The trick, he says, is to “overcome that desire to get too comfortable”. With almost a dozen similar complexes going up around the city in the next few years, one wonders what kind of relationship future residents of these buildings will have with Ho Chi Minh City. Will they lose themselves in the prefab lifestyle, hiding away from the noise and the clutter of street culture? Or will they find their own level of balance? Either way, we may just be looking at a model for the future of life in the big city.

“Before,” Boris says, “I felt like I was living in Vietnam. Now it feels like I have to leave the city to come into this place. It’s like an embassy”

April 2013 Word | 55

The Retirees Carl and Bente Sternberg are a professional expat couple enjoying a renaissance in Vietnam, their home for the past 10 years. Words by Bente Sternberg, photo by Harvey Morrison

love our Saigon lifestyle. I love the surprises, constantly seeing things that make me laugh, just in wonder. The architecture is fascinating, its shapes and colours, the old French charm. There’s always magic to discover. Life happens on the street. Even funeral trucks burst with colour, accompanied by a cacophony of instruments and special flower displays. Urban rivers of motorcycles, cars, bicycles and pedestrians are always going somewhere for some reason. Street restaurants with little tables, conversations, delicate aromas alternating with pungent whiffs, the Saigon romance with fish sauce — place a cloth on the street, and you have a shop. Saigon is all about culture, a surroundsound experience. Its heart makes my heart

“What is so lovely about Saigon is that I feel like I fit in. Judgements aren’t made about who I am and what I should be doing. What a wonderful place to find at our age!”

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pulsate, I feel alive. Every once in a while I have this moment where I ask — am I really living in Vietnam? There’s a custom in the north where as a foreigner you light incense, offer flowers and fruit at the altar of your house to thank the ancestors for letting you be a guest in Vietnam. It’s at these moments that I feel in my heart that we made the right decision to ‘retire’ in Vietnam. But I like the word repurposing. We don’t see ourselves as retired, as withdrawing from action. We want to be younger longer, and to work longer. We see ourselves as involved, energetic and engaged in life. The object now is to put our time and energy into what we truly deem important. We want to live our life, not just pass the time.

I still do psychotherapy, executive management and life coaching, management and psychosocial training and consultation. To me this is an overarching umbrella under which these seemingly disparate roles fall called ‘emerging life’. I am creative by nature, and design my own training and activities with my client’s outcome in mind. My background is both in social work and business. Carl is a clinical psychologist still practicing psychology with adults, families, couples and adolescents. His specialty is trauma, depression, anxiety and difficult adjustments. He too loves living in Saigon, utilising his own experience as an expat and expert on cultural adjustment. What I value about our lifestyle in this city is that I can do what I love here. I am not put in a box, I can be my ‘renaissance self’ and use my skills and experience in different contexts, doing different things. I love acting like a dress designer and having dresses made from ideas, choosing fabrics and styles, getting creative even at an ao dai shop. Sure, we miss our kids and grandkids, our friends back in the US. We Skype, email, call and visit once or twice a year. Our son and his family spent six months here. Our other son worked here for years. We’re not lonely. It’s easy to meet people, foreigners and Vietnamese. What’s nice is that we can be friends with people of all ages and from all over the world. We are never bored. My passion is people, my work with people. It’s about authenticity, communicating, teaching about how things work, what happens in life and how to deal with these events. For someone who has been a fish out of water, what is so lovely about Saigon is that I feel like I fit in. Judgements aren’t made about who I am and what I should be doing. What a wonderful place to find at our age!

The Restaurateur

Bibi has been in the Ho Chi Minh City restaurant business for 22 years. Ed Weinberg finds out the tricks of the trade. Photo by Alexandre Garel

here’s a debate brewing in the Bibi guestbook. Rosalie Raaÿmakers writes in fairly steady crayon, “At Bibi’s I like the ice cream the best!” But Matthys R, her presumable brother, writes, “I like the French fresh most of BiBi,” above a picture that looks suspiciously like French fries. Others weigh in. One likes the “delicious chicken”. Another draws a tree with plates growing on its branches. “Many baby want to come here, I like baby,” Bibi says with pride. “I like baby and the baby like me.” Bibi @ Alibi (5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1) is the newest incarnation in the Bibi series, which previously came in the forms of Bibi, Bibi Oi and Bibi Ba. Bibi is one of modern Saigon’s longest-running restaurateurs, starting at Augustin in 1991, when there were only four French restaurants in the city — a number today that is more like 40. In those early days, the stock came mostly from overseas. Bibi was the only French chef among them — having worked in restaurants in Paris and Aix-en-Provence. He

had a sister in France, who owned the Aix restaurant he had spent 10 years working in, and whom he was very close with.

The French Connection Leaving Vietnam in 1956 after the death of their Vietnamese mother, Bibi and his sister spent 10 years in a Jesuit orphanage while their French serviceman father was stationed in Algeria, fighting another losing battle. At the age of 13 Bibi tried military school, but it didn’t take. At 14, he started working in bars. For the next decade, he shuffled between flight school, ski instructing in the French Alps and working in restaurants. In 1976, at the age of 23, his path was set by a hire from a restaurant in Paris. He maintained a close connection with the motherland until 1997, when his sister died. Since then he has devoted himself to the Saigon restaurant scene, only interrupted by unscrupulous owners or business partners not fulfilling contract terms, and the march of progress, which sometimes causes a modest French restaurant to be torn down in

favour of yet another skyscraping hotel.

The Elder Statesman Nowadays, he takes on more of a teaching role. “I like Vietnamese staff,” Bibi says, laughing. “Very difficult, because all the time you speak — ‘yes, yes’. No ‘yes’!” Parfum is his head chef, accompanying him to the market for fresh ingredients for of-the-moment dishes, supervising a kitchen filled with other French pseudonyms like Cigale (‘seagull’), Papillon (‘butterfly’), Cocinelle (‘ladybug’). They all know kitchen French. Bibi hires a French teacher, and in three months “they know le pain, le sel, no problem!” Parfum has been with him through all the previous Bibi incarnations. Speaking of his relationship with staff, Bibi says he doesn’t have a staff turnover problem — one of the few restaurateurs in this city who can make that claim. Like everything else, Bibi is hands-on. “You come with me to market, okay, you make same same me. They like working with me.”

“He has devoted himself to the Saigon restaurant scene, only interrupted by unscrupulous owners … not fulfilling contract terms, and the march of progress, which sometimes causes a modest French restaurant to be torn down in favour of yet another skyscraping hotel” April 2013 Word | 57

The Singer Cam Van’s husky voice is familiar to all those Vietnamese who have taken her into their hearts over many years. Like many Saigon celebrities she has decided to focus her energies on becoming a businesswoman. Words by Derek Milroy, photo by Harvey Morrison

ur translator is believe it or not stuck in a lift, so we are afforded a little more time with the lady herself, Cam Van, at her new establishment — Van’s Unforgettable (46 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3). We also get to meet her husband and drumming legend Khac Trieu before we are given a rare treat. Together with pianist Vu Trong Hieu, Cam Van performs an impromptu set and she even as per our request belts out a fine rendition of I Will Always Love You, her first attempt at the song which Whitney Houston made her own. Is this really one of the nation’s most talented singers? In Saigon the stars are just so accessible; it is the good old days. How many western celebrities would wait around for an hour before an interview and then sing three fabulous songs to give you goosebumps with a touching humbleness and a free coffee? Since Cam Van opened her café-club with her husband — they have been married 25 years — her adoring fans are worried that her business will distract from her music. But they needn’t be concerned. Despite working all day and night at her ‘new child’, there is always time for song.

Build It and They Will Come “Before I only focused on singing and my

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family but since Unforgettable opened, I have been so busy,” she explains. “Once the business is more stable I will have more free time. I have two coffee shops on the first and second floors in daytime. At night we have KC club with live music including performances from Khac Trieu who is the best drummer in Vietnam.” She doesn’t mind talking about her business, but is not one for blowing her own trumpet — when Van’s opened there

“In Saigon the stars are just so accessible; it is the good old days. How many western celebrities would wait around for an hour before an interview?” was no fanfare, PR or advertising. It seems to be picking up customers through word of mouth. It is especially popular with foreigners who are probably as surprised as me when they see Cam Van’s hands-on approach. She still practices singing three times a

week. The café’s name ‘Van’s Unforgettable’ comes from her popular song, which rubberstamped her fame in Vietnam. She is facing a dilemma, though. Her daughter, Van Khanh (Ashley), is also a talented singer and wants to follow in her mother’s footsteps. But her father wants her to go to the US to study. The couple’s other daughter Trieu Man (Tiffany) is currently at university in the States. “Ashley is only 15 but wants to be a singer, and I don’t want her to go America as I would miss her too much,” says Cam Van. “Her voice is pretty good and strong. Tiffany also likes to sing, but she is more like me with the husky voice.”

Hands On A month ago when the chef quit and with no replacement at hand, Cam Van rolled up her sleeves and went into the kitchen. At first her husband was worried she was burning herself out, but the customers thought her food tasted great. One lunchtime at around 2pm the café was packed and she had to go on stage to sing a song. It was an apology to her customers — there was no food left. “The customers said that because they got to hear me sing they didn’t care so much about lunch,” she says. “Those customers are now all regulars.”

The Viet Kieu Whisked away from Vietnam with his family in April 1975, American-raised Vinh Dao comes home. Words and photo by Vinh Dao

was born in Saigon in 1972. My mother left with my grandmother, her younger brother, my older brother and I in 1975 on the day Saigon fell. I was three years old. I have no recollection of my life in this city, and the only mementos we left with were a handful of photos, the clothes on our backs and gold that my mother still keeps for a rainy day. We were interned in Malaysia for a month, before eventually becoming sponsored by a family in Montana and going to the US. Vietnam was the furthest thing in my mind while growing up in Orange County. I was too busy living the American dream. Like most first-generation Vietnamese growing up in the States, I spent all of my time trying to fit in. In 2003, I sold all my stuff, packed my bags and headed back to Vietnam. Fortunately for me, Cambodia got in my way. I spent close to 10 years there, and in that time I found and excelled in a profession I could only dream of having, met my wife and found life-long friends. However, the pull was always there. As my time in Cambodia drew on I spent more and more time in Vietnam, but only as a visitor.

The Return Six months ago, the pull was too much for my wife and I. We left Cambodia and made the move to Ho Chi Minh City. It was nervewracking for the first few months. But over time, one thing that has stuck in my head is how familiar Vietnam feels. There are the obvious things such as language and cuisine but digging a bit deeper, I find the ingenuity of the Vietnamese surprisingly familiar. While in high school in the US, I read a local newspaper article that focused on older Vietnamese ladies, grandmothers walking around predominantly white neighbourhoods, digging through their trash to find junk to be recycled. There was

widespread indignation in these neighbourhoods, and certain areas even tried to get these ladies arrested. However in Vietnam, nothing is wasted and everything has a use. Staying with family felt familiar in a way that I couldn’t explain. Small idiosyncrasies that used to bother me about my family were explained in a brief two-day stay with an aunt in District 3. Growing up, food was cooked for the whole day and just kept out on the kitchen table, underneath a large strainer. I never understood this and used to wonder why we just didn’t put the food in the fridge and nuke it in the microwave when we wanted to eat. Every member of the family worked all sorts of hours so there wasn’t really time for meals — and not everyone in their Vietnam past lives had a microwave. This was made clear to me when one of my cousins would come home from a swing shift, plop down on the dinner table with a big bowl of rice and have a meal. Kind of like the com trua places I enjoy eating at now.

Working out the Kinks

“I have been told by many Saigonese that I speak Vietnamese like an 80-year-old lady from Hanoi — which I guess is true, considering I learned the language from my grandmother”

One of the hardest things was to unlearn most of the language that my mother spoke. The language has changed here, and being removed from the country for over 30 years I couldn’t keep up. I have been told by many Saigonese that I speak Vietnamese like an 80-year-old lady from Hanoi — which I guess is true, considering I learned the language from my grandmother. But as nerve-wracking as it is, I’m glad we made the move. Most of my fondest childhood memories were of waking up to the smells of pho that had been bubbling away through the night. I would jump out of bed and hurry to the dinner table and wait while my grandmother dished out the goods. Walking around the city and smelling that familiar aroma once again makes me feel like I’m home.

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The Pilot Karen Hewell sees if captain of the skies Flavio Olivari has the right stuff. Photo by Charles Barnes

lavio Olivari insists he has an office job. “It’s not like the picture [of glamour] that they show you in the movies,” he says. “It’s nothing that [requires too much skill]. I mean, anybody can do it,” he shrugs humbly. Pausing to assess my expression, he reiterates. “Really.” Flavio, 34, has spent the past seven years flying in his native Italy and abroad. Going on three years in Vietnam, he is slow to share the things that set his lifestyle apart from his expat counterparts. “You lose friends because you’re not at home [as often], but you meet friends in other parts of the world,” he admits, while discussing his humble beginnings in a transient lifestyle. “It’s just [something] to get used to.”

A Tale of More than Two Cities Flavio’s experience of living and working in Ho Chi Minh City is distinct from most of his peers, as he spends nearly as much time outside of Vietnam as in it. “Tokyo, Osaka, Melbourne, Sydney, Taipei, Singapore…” he counts on two hands, listing his regular destinations as if reciting a shopping list. “I love to change, and it’s a really good way to change,” he explains. “You can take a breath. You come [to Ho Chi Minh City] and… maybe you breathe here a different way,” he laughs. “Just not so clean.” Regular stints in foreign countries seem

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to have little effect on where he puts down roots. “I would call it home,” he says of the city and his shared apartment in District 7, going on to explain how many of his exotic destinations often afford little more than a hotel room and an irregular sleeping schedule. “If you don’t sleep, you… don’t sleep,” he remarks nonchalantly.

I Feel the Need… The Need for Speed! When Flavio isn’t advising passengers to remain seated with seatbelts fastened, he’s playing the part of a regular at District 1 favourites like Thi Bar (224 De Tham, Q1). “I [meet friends] in bars… It’s the same people going to the same places,” he says, carefully noting that bar chats rarely include the mention of his uniquely romanticised profession. “It’s kind of embarrassing,” he laughs, reminiscing about awkward past experiences at Italian weddings. “The attention goes to you, I really don’t like that.” Busy minimising the unconventional aspects of his life and occupation, Flavio compares the relative risk of busy roads of the city with the skies. “Going on the street with a motorbike is [probably] more dangerous than being in the air,” he claims. How does Flavio get around? “Oh, I have a motorbike,” he answers off-handedly. After a moment in which he remembers his previous point, he shakes his head and chuckles. “Yeah, I guess I combine the two.”

“Going on the street with a motorbike is [probably] more dangerous than being in the air”

The City Farmers Francis Xavier takes a look at life on the outskirts. Photos by Alexandre Garel

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“It’s good to know that after all of Ho Chi Minh City’s crazy changes, I can see the true face of Vietnam so close by — which I know will last for many years still”

half-hour from the concrete jungle of Ho Chi Minh City is Thanh Da Island, its complete opposite. Except for some greying apartment blocks close to the bridge connecting the island to the mainland, no house is more than two storeys high. There are trees and people farming, raising fish and lotus — no different from the country. We meet Vy at her place by the river, where she is feeding her fish. She’s around 50, and has been farming here for pretty much all her life, raising fish and lotus. She says she does this for fun and to pass the time, as she doesn’t earn enough to live on — her daughter lives in the US and sends money home.

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People here used to grow rice, but the water level has risen so much over the last few years it’s made that impossible. Now it’s fish and lotus, cows, pigs and chicken. When the season’s out, they become housemaids for the rich of District 1 and Thao Dien, only a 20-minute drive away.

Country Life We pass through a dry, off-season field. The sun is on its way down and the breeze is strong, perfect for flying a kite — which is what the kids there are doing. Parents hang out, dogs chase each other, the boys play football. It’s the truest Vietnamese country scene I’ve ever witnessed in this city. Hearing there’s a French guy living in this area, we decide to check it out. Following

Vy’s directions, we arrive on a narrow dirt road by the river, with bamboo bushes leading to a small house with a beautiful garden walkway. His name is Baptiste. He’s been living in Vietnam for 10 years but just moved to this beautiful house five months ago, where he paints and pays US$200 a month rent. People here are nice, they invite him for drinks all the time when he’s back from work. Life has never been better. Coming back from Thanh Da, I feel like we’re just getting back from a holiday with fresh air and that peaceful feel, honesty, rustic eyes, no fake empty luxury buildings or malls. It’s good to know that after all of Ho Chi Minh City’s crazy changes, I can see the true face of Vietnam so close by — which I know will last for many years still.

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This is

London

Despite the expense, London remains one of the most dynamic and enticing cities in the world. When you visit, just make sure you avoid the cold. Words and photos by Nick Ross

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April 2013 Word | 65

hink of a city with 2,000 years worth of history that has been burnt down once, bombed, rebuilt and remains the largest city in the EU. Imagine a place that mixes architectural grandesse and history with contemporary arts, great theatre, the best in Englishlanguage comedy and cutting edge music. Think also of a city once chided for its bad food that today sits at the centre of some of the best modernday cuisine on the planet. And think of the only city in the world to have hosted the Olympics not once or twice, but thrice. This is London. It may not be the economic capital of the world of yesteryear â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the era of empire is both socially and psychologically a thing of the past. Instead, it remains a commercial and cultural centre both aided and abetted by its cosmopolitan facade. These days less than 50 percent of its population has white, Anglo-Saxon roots, but that only helps to add to the cultural melting pot that makes this place tick. And it is this diversity, added to by the mix of present and past, that makes it a great place to visit. In London you can do anything or be anyone.

Cold and Bold If you are going to visit, bear two things in mind. First is the expense. Unless youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to couchsurf, are visiting friends or are going to share a hostel dormitory, accommodation here is expensive. Be prepared. And most importantly, avoid the cold. This writer last visited in March

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(Previous Spread) Left, a London version of the cyclo with a driver wooing customers inside; Right, a Docklands Light Railway train at Canary Wharf Station in the heart of the former East End. The land has been reclaimed over the past three decades. (This Spread, clockwise from top left) London’s oldest bagel bakery, one of two adjacent bagel businesses still operating in the Brick Lane area; Three different lots of graffiti in Shoreditch in the East End. Street art has quite literally become a work of art; A human statue, typical of the street performances found in Covent Garden in the West End

Information and Accommodation It calls itself ‘The Ultimate Guide to London’ and in truth, it still is. To find out what’s going on in all arenas, go to timeout.com/London. If you want to go a bit more official, then click on visitlondon.com. This website also helps you with places to stay, although sites like agoda.com are also good on this front. For cheap(er) travel around the city, you’re going to need an Oyster Card. This cuts down the almost astronomic fares on London’s transport system by as much as 50 percent. For more information go to oystercard.com.

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and got caught in winter snows during spring. Not pleasant when you’re out on the street, trying to take in the sights. Yet cold or no cold, as sights and sounds go London has a wealth of them. All requiring that you pick and choose. The highlights are abundant. Take, for example the trio of museums behind the Royal Albert Hall in South Kensington. Sat side by side, the National Science Museum excels when it comes to creativity — here science is given a twist that makes it exciting and appealing to young and old alike. Then there is the Natural History Museum, home to a lifesize, animatronic model of the tyrannosaurus rex. And if design is your thing, few places can match the eye-opening wonders of the Victoria and Albert Museum. Football lovers can visit the stadiums. The likes of Stamford Bridge and The Emirates are open to fans or non-fans alike, with Arsenal’s recently built monolith a great

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sight for ogling eyes. Art lovers will also find a slice of heaven here, in particular on the South Bank at the Tate Modern, a former power station transformed into a multi-level, world-class gallery. The institution is presently showing a paidentrance Lichtenstein exhibition, but also has a number of galleries open for free viewing. And of course, if you want to catch London from above, then hop on the London Eye, opposite the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben. You can even stand astride the meridian line at Greenwich, the fictitious, equator-like mark from which Greenwich Mean Time and indeed all time on this planet is measured. Or if you so wish, you can book a tour of the spooky yet highly fascinating and architecturally bewildering Highgate Cemetery, the final resting place of Karl Marx and many other luminaries. However, for me, London is best seen on foot or by bicycle — tourists can now hire

bikes from outdoor, pay-as-you-go stands. The square mile that makes up the City of London is an unbeatable place for a wander, as is Soho in the West End and Camden Town on the weekend. The East End should also not be ignored, and in particular the modern, yet artistically rundown area around Shoreditch, Spitalfields and Brick Lane. The street art here is phenomenal as is the obsession with vintage clothing, an eye opener into all that is trendy and cutting edge. And while you’re in the East End, you can even visit England’s longest running bagel bakery, a landmark in its own right, hit an Indian Subcontinental meal in Bangla Town or even head north to Hoxton to take advantage of all the Vietnamese cuisine on offer. The pho bo at the highly rated Song Que may cost VND200,000, but it’s well worth the expense, especially after you become fed up with all that terrible English cuisine you have to make do with.

(Left) Behind closed doors. The Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, two of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most iconic and overly photographed sites.

(Right) A bowl of pho at Song Que in Kingsland Road, Hoxton. Song Que is one of 15 or so Vietnamese restaurants lining this street.

(Top) The Emirates Stadium just off Holloway Road, the home of Arsenal Football Club. The stadium is

(Bottom) A bicycle hiring scheme set up by the Mayor of London Boris Johnson, means that you can now rent a bike in one area of London and return it to a stand elsewhere, a great eco way to see the city.

one of many that tourists can visit to get a taste of the grandeur of

Premier League Football.

Getting There Vietnam Airlines flies direct from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City to Gatwick. However, to take in other parts of Europe, the direct flight to Paris with Air France and then the Eurostar train through the Channel Tunnel is a good option. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only two hours and fifteen minutes between both cities. Book the train in advance and the cost of the fare is as little as GBP50 one way (VND1.5 million). Other airlines such as Emirates, Qatar and more do flights to London with short stopovers in the Middle East. This is a great way of breaking up a 12-hour flight into two, more manageable six-hour portions.

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THE FRENCH SPECIAL

Vive la France

FABRICE MAURIES, THE FRENCH CONSULAR GENERAL IN HO CHI MINH CITY, OUTSIDE HIS RESIDENCE. PHOTO BY ALEXANDRE GAREL

For years, France has invested time and energy into promoting culture in Vietnam. This year they are upping the ante. Nick Ross spoke to Benoit Poumier, the general commissioner responsible for making 2013 into a year to remember

arly March in Paris and the snow that carpeted this city until only two days before has now been reduced to icy clumps on walls and the occasional patch of slush. I'm in the Ministry of Culture in Rue de Valois, just behind Le Louvre, to meet M. Benoit Poumier, the commissioner general for the France-Vietnam celebrations to commemorate 40 years of diplomatic relations between the two countries. Kicking off this month the celebrations are huge, far larger than any being organised by the other nations who this year are commemorating the same anniversary. And there are a few — Britain, Japan, Australia and New Zealand included. Culminating in a spectacular 3D light show at the Reunification Palace this December, the French-organised activities mix business with culture, bringing anything from trade delegations to ballet, orchestras, dance troupes, jazz bands and gastronomy artists to Vietnam. At the beginning of next year there will be reciprocal celebrations

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organised by Vietnam in France. These will run until September 2014. I've never been into a ministry building in Europe before — the closest was as a kid when I was taken to 10 Downing Street to try and spy Margaret Thatcher entering and leaving the famous residence of the British Prime Minister. As I waved she smiled at me, not that it ever led me to voting Conservative. But it was a memory nonetheless. Here is different. There are all the accoutrements of officialdom — the grand buildings, the security, the searches — but there is something less restrictive about the way it is all conducted. And as I enter the Ministry of Culture, linguistic allowances are made for my bad French. The equivalent would never happen in the UK.

Behind the Scenes At first sight M. Poumier has the visage of a middle-aged functionary in a suit, but as he begins to speak, his eloquence makes it clear that the uniform bequeathed

him by western bureaucracy belies the character that sits beneath. He takes me to the window of his office and shows me the scene below, a scene, he says, that tourists will never see. Looking out onto a courtyard that on one side houses the ComédieFrançaise, we are in the area behind the Palais Royal, the building originally constructed by the infamous Cardinal Richelieu in the 17th Century. It was one of the areas that survived the restructuring of Paris instituted during the Baron Haussman era in the 1860s — it is this vision that gives the French capital the visually spectacular form it maintains to this day. One of my first questions is about M. Poumier's role in the celebrations. It was the French Consular General in Ho Chi Minh City, Fabrice Mauries, who had suggested I interview him. I had mentioned that I was returning to London for a short visit and that I would be passing through Paris on my way back to Vietnam. So, the question arose, would you like to meet M. Poumier? He is the best person to talk to about the

PROVIDED BY PETITES HISTORIES.COM

On the Ground

PHOTO BY ALEXANDRE GAREL

Nicolas Bergeret is head of the Head of the l’Antenne a Ho Chi Minh Ville de l’Institut Francais du Vietnam. He outlines his hopes for the festivities this coming year.

How do you think the FranceVietnam year will be special?

celebrations. Sat in M. Poumier’s office I’m glad I’ve made the time for the interview. His answer to my question about his role, as is the wont of government officials, takes more than five minutes, but it is beautifully put. To make the celebrations work, he explains, the French authorities have to bring together a number of partners. These include the Institut Français, “the team who are setting up all the events and are in charge of communication”, the French embassy in Vietnam, the various business and state sponsors, UBI France, the French trade commission, and different ministries including Foreign Affairs, Culture, Science and Education. “The general commissioner is the lynchpin, the person who gets everyone to work together. That is my role.” It is now that the enormity of his task becomes clear. This is a year’s worth of business and cultural celebrations, something that M. Poumier hopes will make “French culture and economics better

MANY countries are organising festivities this year to celebrate the establishment of diplomatic relations with Vietnam, but the France-Vietnam Year is special for two reasons. First, because it is a ‘double’ year — next year it will be the turn of Vietnam to be honoured in France. Second, because of the importance of the calendar. More than a hundred events will be organized, whether in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Hue or many other cities. That said, there is no competitive spirit in our approach and we hope that all the events organised will complement one another in order to make 2013 a particularly festive year throughout Vietnam.

What difficulties have you had setting this up? MANY artists have expressed their wish to take part in this France-Vietnam Year and submitted projects. We have been forced to make a selection due to the number of applications received.

What do you think the highlights will be? HALF of [the events] will be in the cultural field, one quarter in the economic field, and one quarter will concern science, research

and academic exchange. There are many highlights and a lot of the shows are intended for lovers of classical music and dance. They will be able to attend many high quality events, whether, for example, it is the concert on the Champs-Elysées Orchestra, the ballet The Rites of Spring choreographed by JeanClaude Gallotta (Jun. 29), the concerts of Paris Orchestra (Oct. 30), or the concert of the Ho Chi Minh City Ballet Orchestra, which will be led by Nicolas Chalvin, music director of the Orchestre des Pays de Savoie (Dec. 8). We also hope that the traditional French Fête de la Musique, which will be celebrated on Jun. 21 in Ho Chi Minh City, will be particularly prominent. There is also The International Festival of Extraordinary Textiles that will take place in Hue (Apr. 27 to May 1) and the celebration in December of the 120th anniversary of the founding of the city of Dalat. The spectacular 3D light show at the Reunification Palace in December will close the France in Vietnam Season.

What do you hope will be the legacy of this year? A better understanding of each other, a shared exchange that is different to all the clichés. [We want to see] links tightened, new opportunities to work together in our respective fields of excellence and strengthened exchanges. We have big ambitions to make this anniversary a memorable event that will open a new chapter in Franco-Vietnamese relations.

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PHOTOS BY SEBASTIEN LAVAL AND LE VUONG

known in Vietnam. And likewise, Vietnam better known abroad.” He adds: “This is a joint effort, first in Vietnam and then in France. That is very important for us. Our spirit is one of reciprocity.”

Relationships My trip to Paris has been short but fruitful. I’ve been to a quite astonishing Marc Chagal exhibition in the Luxembourg Museum, visited the Pere Lachaise cemetery to make a personal pilgrimage to the graves of Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison, have spent the night out in Etienne Marcel and wandered around the area in the proximity of the Louvre Museum. I am always taken aback by this city’s sense of history. Central Paris remains distinctly classical, from its architecture to much of its art and even its cuisine, yet the France of today is anything but. It is a country that has taken a leap forward from

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the exuberant grandeur of the past, from the colonialism of the 19th and early 20th centuries. And it is this new wave of ideas and creativity that M. Poumier hopes to promote in Vietnam. “We want to show that modern France is not only about history,” he explains, “but technology, science, artistic creativity and modernity.” Likewise, in the reciprocal celebrations in France in 2014 when Vietnam takes the stage, he’s hoping to create “an image of modern Vietnam, of its great dynamism and its growing creativity. We want to show this part of the culture, to update [the French people’s] image of Vietnam.” Yet for me, this doesn’t explain why France is investing so much time and energy into the celebrations. Australia and the UK have got various events planned, as does Japan, but nothing is on the scale of what France have got in stall. For M. Poumier, the answer comes down

to the need to promote French culture and the fact that culture and business go hand in hand. “It has always been a pillar of our diplomacy,” he explains. “We think that cultural influence is a good tool to bring people closer. It’s good in many fields. Culture and diplomacy are linked. We cannot separate them. We are investing in our relationship with Vietnam.” There are other reasons, too. For France, in terms of bilateral relations, Vietnam is one of the most important countries in Asia. Vietnam still has a relatively large French-speaking population and there are over 250,000 Vietnamese living in France. Of course, there are the historical links, too, as well as an intrinsic need for France to support itself by competing globally. With so much international influence coming from English-speaking nations such as the US, Australia and the UK, and with China, Japan, Germany, Russia and South

"We want to show that modern France is not only about history,but technology, science, artistic creativity and modernity"

The Events Besides the continued monthly or bi-monthly events put on at IDECAF, and the various trade shows and visits of trade delegations, to follow is a list of confirmed events that France will be hosting this year in Ho Chi Minh City. More are on their way. For the full rundown, watch these pages, check out wordhcmc. com or go to anneefrancevietnam.com.

F abien M ary J azz C oncert Apr. 23, Idecaf

Born in 1978 in Normandy, the awardwinning Fabien Mary is one of France’s most gifted trumpet players. Fabien will be playing in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi with his highly acclaimed quartet.

L es S iestes E lectroniques

(Electronic Siestas) Oct. 12 and Oct. 13 les-siestes-electroniques.com

Korea adding to the mix, France needs to make itself heard. From both a business and a cultural perspective, for the survival of this country as a financial and cultural destination of choice, they have to compete. “Globalisation was US culture until a few years ago,” explains M. Poumier. “But now it’s not only American. The fact that there are emerging cultures globally gives stimulation competitively to other cultures. Culturally it is a positive competition from which everyone has to win something. France needs to be in the global network of ideas and creativity.” Ultimately it’s all about the legacy. How will these celebrations affect long-term relations between France and Vietnam? “The success is not just measured by the number of people attending these events,” he says, “but also by the kind of ties that will exist after this festival. We want to work for the medium and long-term, not for the short-term.”

Based in Toulouse, Southern France, Les Siestes Electroniques started out as a summer open-air concert for emerging artists in the field of music and digital culture. It has since travelled to countries as far apart as Uruguay, Germany and DR Congo to bring its brand of new music and digital culture to the world. Coming to Ho Chi Minh City this October, Les Siestes will offer the general public an opportunity to experience the best of contemporary music though concerts, club nights, workshops and exhibitions. Expect this one to be big.

L es 54 E thnies

V ietnam

(The 54 Ethnic Minorities of Vietnam) One of the highlights of this year will be a photo exhibition tracing the look, feel and culture of Vietnam’s 54 ethnic minorities. Featuring over 200 photos by Sebastien Laval and Le Vuong, the exhibition will take place at the Museum of Fine Arts towards the end of 2013.

A llumeurs d 'I mages (3D Light Show) December

Using light, sound and atmosphere to tell stories, all focused on a standout piece of architecture, Allumeurs d'Images’s 3D light shows have attracted crowds in the tens of thousands to buildings such as Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. Transforming the buildings into a medley of ever-changing colour, the resulting shows are original, poetic and spectacular. The Reunification Palace in Ho Chi Minh City will undergo the treatment in December. Another one that will be big. Very big.

O rchestre

P aris

Oct. 30, HCMC Opera House During their next Asian tour in autumn 2013, 20 musicians of the Orchestre de Paris will perform two concerts of chamber music at the opera houses in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City with serenades of Mozart and Strauss. There will also be master classes led by the orchestra’s musicians

P etites H istoires

Sep. 28 to Sep. 30 A contemporary dancer and choreographer, Kader Attou’s creation, Petites Histoires, is a satirical show composed of small performances all put together to create a whole. Some of the sketches are stories, others are more abstract, some are humorous, but all are poetic, emotional and burlesque.

T he O rchestre

des

P ays

Dec. 8, HCMC Opera House

S avoie

Founded in 1984, this orchestra is one of 21 members of the national network of regional orchestras in France. They will play in Ho Chi Minh City with the Ho Chi Minh City Symphony Orchestra and Ballet together with conductor Nicolas Chalvin and oboe soloist Camille Joutard.

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The Rise of Lounge Or is it the fall? Karen Hewell and Nick Ross do a tour of the growing swathes of lounge bars to find out why catering for lounge lizards is all the rage. Photos by Nick Ross

hen we started this article it was on the premise that instead of every Thong, Duc and Ha opening yet another nightclub, the craze that has obsessed this city for the last few years, they were opening lounge bars. Although certainly not the first lounge bar in town, the place that has brought the concept of comfy, sofa-style seating to the masses is Sin Lounge on Le Thanh Ton. Images of clientele arriving in Lamborghinis or Porsches have swamped its Facebook page, with celebrities and the city’s rich casting aside their Honda SHs and Ducattis for the comfort of the luxury car. Not surprisingly, the door policy has been strict. Arrive on a motorbike and forget it. Pop out of a taxi, and maybe. With so many other wouldbe bar owners trying to do something same, same but not

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so very different, as we put this piece together we discovered what we could have told you in the first place. Starting a bar is tough. Very tough. Indeed, a number of establishments that have opened in the last few months have already closed down. Gangnam (yes, someone was naive enough to open a place called Gangnam) apparently lasted just three weeks. White Lounge, a project of a well-known Vietnamese language website, is said to have shut up shop after five. And when we went out on our investigations, we discovered that U-Lounge was also a brighteyed dream of the not so distant past. So, to follow are the lounge bars that have broken the mould. All are new to town, having set up shop in the last three to 12 months. And all offer something a little different, giving them the potential to have some longevity.

Wine Bar 38 38 Dong Khoi, Q1 With its fine lines, woodenpanelled elegance, creams, browns and candlelit ambience, when it’s empty the atmosphere at 38 can be a bit stilted. But get a party or two in here and the place quite literally lights up, not that 38 does anything to create its transformation. It’s just one of those venues where a quiet drink on your own just doesn’t get the saliva running. Believe me, I’ve tried it. More a wine bar than the typical lounge — but then again, where is? — what 38 does, it does well. And the focus not surprisingly is on good wine. In this instance, mainly self-imported stuff from Bordeaux. With such a bias towards France’s best-known winegrowing region, you would expect prices to be on the high end. And it’s true; two of the grand cru options by the bottle hit the VND30 million mark. Not to be sniffed at.

Fortunately, Bordeaux is not all about your Chateaux Margaux and your Mouton Rothschild; it’s also about good wine at reasonable prices. And thanks to the Eurocave wine dispensing machines, these tipples are made available by the glass. At present 38 does 20 wines by the glass, with prices for both red and white ranging from VND168,000 to VND498,000. If you know your wine you’ll understand. For quality versus price, the St Emilions, St Estephs and Pomerols are well worth their value in dong. In fact, you’d be hard pushed to find better value in Paris. Best of all is the matching food menu, with French-style, Asian-influenced tapas options together with mains, and five types of home made foie gras. This is decadence, but wellpriced decadence at its finest. — Nick Ross

Heaven Bar

Barcode

8 Le Quy Don, Q3

102 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1

There are lounge bars, there are nightclubs, and then there are those places in between. Heaven Bar — located just far enough outside the heaving basslines of District 1 nightclubs to not be lumped in with them — manages to be one of those places. At first glance, Heaven Bar looks lounge through and through. Cozy velvet seating and scarlet drapery are adorned with lush accents you simply wouldn’t find in a nightclub. A central bar takes up a majority of the square footage and the surrounding seating leaves only a narrow aisle to mill around. So, no dancing the night away, right? Wrong. While so many lounge bars look indistinguishable from one night to another, Heaven Bar has the capacity to transform itself from low-key and relaxed

to loud and lively. Seating is cleared away to make room for a dance floor, and suddenly this demure drinkery is anything but. Events are their forte, and no holds are barred. Outlandish ‘Sexy Nurse’ parties flank themed music nights, regularly showcasing DJs to amp up energy and draw in crowds. On the off-nights, though, Heaven once again retreats into a sultry lounge atmosphere, and thrumming acoustic tunes replace top 40 hits and catchy electronica. The appeal is apparently universal, since both expats and locals are regular clientele. Perhaps a combination of location, personality, and price — cocktails average VND90,000 and a beer goes for around VND50,000 — sees this nightlife chameleon hit all the right notes. — Karen Hewell

When Barcode opened at the end of last year, they went for the DJ concept. But with constant complaints from The Palace Hotel next door — sound travels unfortunately — and a realisation that the DJ concept is one of those that has been done to beat-heavy, electrocentric death, they decided to reinvent themselves. The reincarnation? A focus on finger food. Decked out in all things that glow in the dark — this lounge bar has really got luminous violets, pinks and blues down to a T — and with Jenga sets placed atop each table, the idea was to provide palatable, tasty pick-me-ups that can’t be found elsewhere, all adding a pleasant change to the drinking experience normally found in this city. My first experience of the finger food concept gone creatively wild was when I walked in on a Wednesday night to see a friend of mine holding up his condom-covered fingers in delight.

“Look,” he said to me. “They serve their wings with condoms.” It’s a gimmick, for sure, but the wings, which come in eight contrasting flavours, are so moreish, that the finger condoms come as a welcome protection from all that sticky, gooey but sublimely tasty glaze that coats them. But it’s not just wings that have flown onto the menu here — mini burgers, riblets and fin de claire oysters also make up the mix. Mondays and Wednesdays are wings night — VND6,000 a piece. While on Tuesdays the oysters go for free with the purchase of an alcoholic drink. Thursday is mini burgers night, the four options going at VND15,000 a burger, while on Fridays they do 50 percent off riblets. Barcode still has guest DJs, but only on Fridays and Saturdays, and thanks to their 5pm to 8pm Monday to Friday happy hour, they also have customers from early to late. — Nick Ross

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Alto Heli Bar

Vesper Bar

52nd Floor, Bitexco Tower, Hai Trieu, Q1

Ground Floor, The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1

Some experiences are not for the faint of heart, and Alto Heli Bar, perched far above congested city streets on the 52nd floor of the aptly named Bitexco Tower, is certainly one of them. Offering the highest cocktail in the city, Alto serves up the serenity of panoramic city views alongside its menu, cementing its place as one of the most unique additions to the city’s lounge scene. I wasn’t entirely sure how my acrophobia would hold up in an environment like this, regardless of how many cocktails I had in me, but I decided to take the plunge — or rather, the rise. It took me two separate elevator rides to finally ascend to this lofty location, but the appeal of the place hits you right between the eyes when you walk through the elevator doors. Seamless glass surrounds you entirely, engulfing you in the endless stretch of city lights

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from over 200 metres up. The modern barstools, the granite floors, the brushed steel wall accents — nothing is especially eye-catching. But it’s not meant to be since the view is the main attraction. And then there’s the helipad. Images of James Bond are conjured when you spot it, but you can forget taking a stroll out to enjoy the fresh air. The doors are securely locked. The location isn’t the only thing that’s high here, since cocktail prices range between VND200,000 and VND500,000 a pop, and the creative Europeaninfluenced cuisine averages VND400,000 a dish. The price tag, however, does little to discourage the diverse clientele, drawing local and expat connoisseurs alike. The draw is clearly the experience, and from what it looks like from up top, it’s definitely worth it. — Karen Hewell

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it — and that includes the recently opened Vesper Bar, which looks, sounds, and feels like the epitome of lounge. To call this place a classic when it opened only in late December seems premature, but it certainly fits the bill. From the outside, it’s hard to tell what Vesper Bar will be like once you walk through the doors. A gateway of tinted windows and a heavy black door shield it from busy Ton Duc Thang outside, and once they close behind you, it’s easy to forget that you’re in Vietnam at all. I walked in on a Monday night and patrons filled every last cushion in the place. Dressed in business casuals — ladies with their heels kicked off and men with their blazers slung over the back of their chairs — this was the after-work haven to decompress.

The reason, perhaps, is obvious. Former manager and chef of Saigon’s late culinary gem Cepage is the driving force behind Vesper, and along with his expertise and reputation come his clientele. His Japaneseinspired, international tapas are arguably the best in the city, while his other dishes follow suit. Looking around, it takes little time to recognize the drink of choice here. Wine selections from South Africa to France and then back to Argentina give even the most selective of wine connoisseurs little to complain about, and the clientele have taken full advantage with a glass in nearly every hand. Simply put, Vesper Bar has it all well set up. Every detail seems expertly crafted, from the muted lighting and the unobtrusive hum of music. I doubt it’ll be long before I’m back to settle in for a drink or three. — Karen Hewell

deciBel

Mask

79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1

Usually when I describe something as ‘rough around the edges’, it isn’t intended as positive. DeciBel, however, has managed to conjure the turn of phrase for totally unexpected reasons. While it certainly doesn’t have the polished, plush feel of its counterparts, it has a charm that is totally different. deciBel has turned the lounge label on its head — and it works. Since its April 2012 debut, the self-proclaimed lounge and cultural event venue has expanded its repertoire far beyond cocktails and finger food, instead fostering a consciously artistic vibe. Operating as more a watering hole for artists and musicians than a bar, deciBel sees your wine selection and caviar and raises you a DJ. With its calendar full with foreign films, art exhibitions and live music, this redheaded stepchild of the city’s lounge scene offers far more than

just a snug retreat from the daily grind. Influenced by the younger clientele it readily attracts, deciBel successfully speaks to this expat cohort. DeciBel shirks expectation further by adorning its interior with deliberately uncommon décor, trading in lounge chairs for quirky purple sofas and recessed lighting for paper lanterns — complemented by revolving art shows on its first floor walls. The menu doesn’t disappoint, offering up bar classics like nachos with cheese (VND85,000) alongside other international delicacies like tapas and bruschetta. Creatively named signature cocktails like Smurf and Red Boozy set you back just over VND100,000 each, and a bottled beer goes for around VND40,000. What deciBel may lack in swank it certainly makes up for in character. — Karen Hewell

Of all the bars mentioned in this article, Mask is the one place that has yet to properly understand itself. Yet, it has promise. What it does well? The outdoor, fairy-lit bar area with its amber, fossil-lit light bar, and Bali, beachfront vibe. No other bar in this city can boast such a pleasant, leafy terrace space. What it needs to improve? The indoor, club-style lounge area with its cartoon-wallpapered

walls just doesn’t work. Customers avoid the indoors space, despite the aircon, for the delights of the terrace. All going to show that concept is paramount. Let’s hope that Mask can find a happy medium because it’s halfway there. A lot more than can be said for all those places that have opened and closed without even making a blot on the Saigon skyline. — Nick Ross

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ART SPECIAL

A Tale of Two Cities Emily Beyda delves into how Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City overcame their artistic differences and learnt to work together. Photos by Alexandre Garel 80 | Word April 2013

anoi has been considered Vietnam’s national centre of cultural, intellectual and artistic activity for most of the country’s history. Home to both the national gallery and the country’s oldest and best known art school, the city is also celebrated for its many historicallyimportant temples and artistic monuments. It’s hard to walk the streets of Hanoi without immersing yourself in the city’s noble history of artistic distinction, from century-old temples and the evocative folk art productions of the famous water puppet theatre, to lesser known treasures like a smattering of highly regarded contemporary galleries and the world’s longest mosaic. While Ho Chi Minh City has its share of notable monuments, Vietnam’s commercial hub has always existed in the shadow of this artistic history, the flashy, hip LA to Hanoi’s more dignified New York. Still, there has always been more going on in Ho Chi Minh City than is readily apparent to the casual observer. For the past decade, as Vietnam began its path to development, young Viet Kieu were slowly drawn back to the southern cities their parents abandoned, bringing with them the philosophical and artistic pursuits they had picked up abroad.

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“While Ho Chi Minh City has its share of notable monuments, Vietnam’s commercial hub has always existed in the shadow of this artistic history, the flashy, hip LA to Hanoi’s more dignified New York” Suddenly, small galleries were opening up, and cute new coffee shops across the city hung art by local artists on their walls. People rode their motorbikes to the openings of exhibitions in far away districts. The Fine Art Museum expanded its collection of contemporary work. Like fruit slowly growing to ripeness, unnoticed, Ho Chi Minh City’s character began to quietly change.

An Art Scene Grows A few years ago, the shift began in earnest. Brian Ring, founder and editor of Hanoi Grapevine, a highly influential arts and culture blog, says that he first noticed Ho Chi Minh City’s growing presence in the national art world back in 2011. That’s the year when the influential, and until then Hanoi-based, contemporary artist Nguyen

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Manh Hung moved down south. He followed in the footsteps of experimental musician Vu Nhat Tan, who had been dividing his time between the two cities for a few years already. Ho Chi Minh City was already wellknown throughout Vietnam as a centre for an energetic youth and celebrity culture, while Hanoi had a reputation for being a rather staid and respectable town, where the bars closed early and the galleries were run by committee. Suddenly the southern city was an attractive prospect for energetic young Vietnamese artists, looking for a new arena in which to showcase their considerable talents. With many newly established Ho Chi Minh City galleries flourishing at a time when their Hanoi-based counterparts struggled to stay afloat or closed entirely,

it seemed as though the city was poised to become the country’s premiere artistic destination. Many whispered that Hanoi’s glory days were over, that the city’s scene had become weighed down by its own past. Suddenly Ho Chi Minh City was in the ascendancy, as rumour had it, attracting the hippest, youngest contemporary artists that Vietnam had to offer, and claiming Hanoi’s place in the sun.

Meeting in the Middle The truth, as the truth often is, proved to be much more complicated. Ring himself challenges any assumptions about the opposition between the northern and southern art scenes, pointing out that as the new galleries opened, they were showing both Saigon and Hanoi artists in equal measure, and that Galerie Quynh and San

Art, two of Ho Chi Minh City’s oldest and most well-respected galleries, frequently feature Hanoi artists in their shows. “I think the picture is not so clearly defined,” he says. “Has the centre of the scene really shifted south?” Covering Session One — the first installment of San Art’s new residency programme — a few months ago was a turning point in the way that I personally viewed the relationship between the two cities. San Art is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s most globally visible galleries, partnering with artists and institutions around the world, in places like London, Tokyo and San Francisco. If there was ever a place to discover the up-and-comers of the Ho Chi Minh City art scene, this was it. But what I found there surprised me. The show featured three artists, one from Saigon, it’s true, but two from northern Vietnam, representing both Hue and Hanoi. After a six-month residency period in an apartment in Binh Thanh, near the gallery, each of the artists produced works responding to and commenting on daily life in Ho Chi Minh City as only an outsider can.

Featured artist Tuan Mami, who comes from Hanoi and created a catalogue of commonplace Ho Chi Minh City objects as his contribution to the show, discussed how exposure to the southern lifestyle influenced his work more than he expected. His work, he says, was about responding to his environment objectively, as a scientist or an outsider would, and life in Saigon had meant being thrust into an entirely new and strange world, forced to respond to his changing atmosphere without preconceptions of prejudice. It is in this space, between the familiar and the alien, that creativity can truly flourish. This supposed northern/southern duality has also begun to break down in other popular galleries around town as well. Take Craig Thomas Gallery on the edge of District 1. An exhibition in December, Evolution, featured the work of Dong Nai-based artist Luong Luu Bien. This was followed last month with the exhibition Handle With Care! showcasing the work of Hanoi-based Nguyen The Hung. Quynh Pham, the founder of Galerie Quynh explains the change.

Information G alleries

Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 cthomasgallery.com Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, Q1 galeriequynh.com San Art 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh san-art.org Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 baotangmythuattphcm.vn deciBel Café 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1 decibel.vn

W ebsites

Hanoi Grapevine hanoigrapevine.com

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“My programming in the past certainly favoured artists based in Saigon,” she says. “I felt that it was important to support artists in my own community. But I have recently begun a more active engagement with artists from the north.” Now that southern artists have gained more of a foothold in the country, Galerie Quynh has shifted its focus to encompass the work of artists from across Vietnam. In fact, the gallery’s next show will focus on works by Hanoi-based artist Ha Manh Thang in his first exhibition in Saigon. His work, says Quynh, has been exhibited “in Hanoi, Asia and Europe for the past 10 years and has a solid collector base. Yet the community here is not terribly familiar with his practice”. Galerie Quynh’s decision to support a

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locally unknown, but globally successful artist is emblematic of the great strides in trans-regional support that the local art community has made in the past few years. “It is encouraging to see more exchanges between Vietnamese artists in different cities and more exhibitions travelling within the nation,” says Quynh. The moment when I finally fully realised how much the old rules had ceased to matter was at an underground film screening, somewhere in District 3. As I drank beer in a crowd of students, watching a movie set in the northern countryside filmed by a relocated Hanoi native and his collaborator from Singapore, it was clear that the old artistic order was gone, maybe for good. Instead of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City squaring off for artistic

supremacy, artists are collaborating more than ever before, crossing ideological, generational and, most importantly, locational barriers with abandon.

The Other Side of The Coin This increased interest in exchange and communication isn’t a one-sided process either. With vibrant new galleries springing up every minute, Hanoi is hardly the staid epicentre of ivory tower art snobbery that detractors imagine it to be. On a recent visit to the city, there was an exhibition at the Hanoi College of Fine Arts that featured the work of art students from across Vietnam, hung alongside works from students in Korea. At Manzi Café, a newly opened café, art gallery and event space similar to Ho Chi Minh City’s own deciBel,

Launch of Phan Quang's installations at San Art. Photos provided by San Art.

Japanese and American bands hung flyers in the bathroom, and artists from cities across Vietnam featured their work in the upstairs gallery shop. Like Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi seems to be opening itself up to outside influences with increasing vigour and conviction, creating an entirely new atmosphere of global artistic exchange. And southern artists are taking note. Kelsey Siggins, a local Saigon artist who is in the process of opening a gallery and event space, says that Hanoi legend, and recent Saigon transplant, Le Quang Ha’s celebrated Hanoi gallery space was “colossally inspiring for me and my partner. [His gallery] was shut down after one to two years, but lives on in legends.” Ring is right. Rather than taking Hanoi’s place in the sun, the Ho Chi Minh City

art scene is gaining momentum at a time where increased collaboration between the two regions isn’t only possible, but necessary. As Vietnam becomes more of a global presence, and the artistic community expands, it is vital that the country develops a cultural identity that extends far beyond the boundaries of regionalism. Northern and southern Vietnam no longer have to define themselves as oppositional artistic forces, but rather as two sides of the same coin, two regions combining their energies to create something entirely new. This is the true secret of the Ho Chi Minh City v. Hanoi debate. Not that there’s some kind of dramatically contentious, Hunger Games-style battle for geographic and artistic supremacy, but that the divide is closing faster, and more permanently, than

anyone ever imagined it could. Perhaps this change is symptomatic of the digital age. As it becomes easier to reach across time and space with a click of the cursor, geographic distances are becoming less and less important as markers of cultural, social and yes, even artistic identity. Instead of comfortably cocooning themselves in familiar creative environments, creating work responding to and commenting on the familiar world around them, contemporary Vietnamese artists are embracing the strange, the contradictory, the unknown. By working together, artists in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City alike are moving beyond their traditional concerns and limitations to create something vitally modern, and uniquely Vietnamese.

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The Sporting Life From the sport that’s overtaking Ultimate Frisbee to ANZAC Day and Aussie Rules. Harry Hodge gets the sport fever in the first edition of this new column. Photos by Kyle Phanroy AUSSIE RULES A decade ago, OutKast’s Hey Ya! was blasting out at bars throughout the continent, the last old-style Volkswagen Beetle was produced and China sent its first man into space. And some zany expats started playing a little game called Australian Rules Football. A decade on and the Vietnam Swans, the nation’s representative in the newly formed EAAFL (East Asia Australian Football League), are heading to Vung Tau at the end of April to take on the Jakarta Bintangs in a game with significance both on and off the field at the 4th Annual ANZAC Friendship Match. Tied in with a chance to climb the ladder in the region’s footy ranks, the Swannies are looking to defend their home turf while celebrating their 10th year in Vietnam. The formation of the EAAFL provides a lot more structure to an active-yet-inconsistent

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footy scene in the region. The league calls for a set number of matches between member clubs in Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Singapore and Laos. “In those first few years, it always felt like the club could fold,” says Vietnam Swans national president Phil Johns. “(Now) footy is alive and well and prospering in Vietnam and the Asian region.”

The Big Game As national president, and a proud Melbourne native, Johns is particularly keen on this year’s ANZAC match with so much happening with the club. The match also recognizes ANZAC Day with ceremonies to reflect on Australia’s involvement in the First World War, with numerous dignitaries and veterans in attendance. “All players will wear two black

armbands in honour of all people who have died in all wars,” Johns says. “It’s a recognition that the pain and sorrow associated with war continues long after their end. We then want to use the energy in a positive, constructive way.” The club does this by raising awareness and funds to support the work being done by the Vung Tau Orphanage and Swim Vietnam, two of its signature charities. “It’s a game of tradition,” says Brett Jotta, a participant who hails from Fremantle, Australia. “It’s a game we play for a cause.” And all signs point to another decade of memorable match-ups to come. The Swans and Bintangs square off on Apr. 27. A match will also be played between the Swans reserves and a Legends squad. Both contests take place at the Vung Tau Dog Track in Vung Tau. Click on vietnamswans.com for more info

DODGEBALL “If you can dodge traffic, you can dodge a ball.” — Patches O’Houlihan This gem of wisdom from Rip Torn’s character in Dodgeball: A True Underdog Story speaks volumes. After a day weaving between ambulances, trucks and heavilyladen motorbikes, a couple of hours of dodgeball should be a walk in the park. Right? Not so fast. From the word ‘go’, players dash to the center line and grab balls like they’re going out of style. Suddenly, you take one off the face. Off to the sideline you go, waiting for someone on your team to make a diving catch and resurrect your playing career. It’s cutthroat, fast, vaguely absurd and quickly growing in popularity in Ho Chi Minh City for expats and locals alike. And now they’re hosting a tournament.

Take Heed, All Ye Heathens Saigon Dodgeball is gearing up for their 2013 tournament, and the group’s head honcho Daren Cheng is extra pumped for this year’s edition. “It’s time to wake the sleeping dragon,” Cheng delivers in an apocalyptic movie trailer voice. “In 2013, dodgeball teams are out for vengeance. Who will be crowned this year’s Kings and Queens of the court?” In all (well, some) seriousness, Saigon

Dodgeball is a fun way to let off some steam. Typically playing Mondays and Wednesdays at 8.30pm on the basketball courts at Phan Dinh Phung Sports Complex (75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3) it attracts a mixed bag of local professionals, English teachers and travellers passing through. Many friendships are forged over beers enjoyed postgame. But avid local dodgeballer Tina Nguyen says tournaments in years past elevate the fun to another level. “You don’t have to be good at it, the most important thing is you have some fun, that’s what I think,” says Tina, who has met many close friends through the game. “To be honest I suck at dodgeball, and I’m probably one of the people who gets hit the most, but who cares?” So think you’re ready for the challenge? If so, remember Patches O’Houlihan’s five D’s for dodgeball domination: “Dodge, duck, dip, dive and dodge!” TOURNAMENT REGISTRATION: The big one’s coming up on June 8! Registrations are individual, and players will be separated by skill level and then randomly distributed into teams. VND200,000 includes entry fee, court fees, entertainment, prizes, water and more. All proceeds go to charity. Click on saigondodgeball.org for more info

“It’s cutthroat, fast, vaguely absurd and quickly growing in popularity in Ho Chi Minh City”

Terms to Remember L ive

ball

A live ball is a dodgeball that has been thrown from the opposing team that has not touched the ground or another player. If you’re hit with a live ball, you’re out.

second rule

Players can only hold the dodgeball for 10 seconds so as to reduce game delay and maintain the pace of the game. It also reduces the unfair hoarding of dodgeballs.

B all

interference

Eliminated players and bystanders are not allowed to interfere with balls in play. You can get pelted with dodgeballs by both sides for this.

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The HoaSen Short Story Competition Results of the HoaSen Short Story Competition — open to all international school students in Vietnam — are now in. Organised by Australian International School, the final shortlist of 15 stories selected from over 250 was judged anonymously by Word deputy editor Ed Weinberg. Here’s the winning entry... Power House By Tae Jun Park UNIS, Hanoi “Burrrrrrrp!......................Zzziip!”

he sounds of the air conditioner burping, and the TV screen being vacuumed into a black hole were the signals for the drawbridge of my castle slowly being lowered. Soon, the beds and sofas would transform into a thick, humid Vietnamese jungle, my room would become the secret, hidden chamber and the floor I was standing on would turn into a mighty soul-sucking swamp filled with trolls and three-headed snakes. Then I would set off for a journey around this mysterious, dark world in search of the lost treasure of my king. Often when adults asked me to make a wish, they usually burst into laughter after hearing my response. The first thing that came into my mind was a ‘power cut’ — not a new Game Boy, a pony, or even a brand new football. To me, power cuts were something better than amusement

parks. They were something much better than any video game or cartoon. They were the Super Mario and the Pokémon, the rollercoaster and the space rocket of my innocent childhood. Living in Sai Dong, a very rural and isolated part of Hanoi across the Red River, electrical constructions and power failures were a very natural part of my bucolic life. In fact, they became the highlight of my rather boring and repetitive life. Power cuts would first bring chaos within my house, as the whole family would go bumping and fumbling around the dark in search of torches. Afterwards, we would all gather in the living room and laugh at each other’s helplessness with no light. It didn’t take too long for my parents to become bored with nothing to do and soon, I would find myself at the neighbour’s house. The house always seemed like the whole village had crammed into it, where the adults sat around the glass table each with a glass of beer, and around them, children barking and racing past every corner of the house like wild dogs let free from their chains.

“According to my experience, the name ‘power cut’ was never accurate. They never enervated me or cut me off from power, but instead empowered me with freedom and an absolute control of my own exciting and adventurous world”

Power cuts meant freedom. My free time during the day usually ended at six o’clock in the evening, when I was expected to go into my room and do my homework. I detested this time of the day, where I would have to sit in front of army after army of letters and numbers that frustrated me each night. However, power cuts were an exception. Power cuts made my parents extremely lenient, and the whole evening became my free time as it was impossible to read a single word in the pitch-black darkness. Thinking back, I realised that this freedom was perhaps the reason why I enjoyed being struck by a power cut, escaping from the repetitive cycle of each day, and especially from the boring, painful study hours. With no parents disturbing us, the children all stuffed themselves into the smallest room in the house. Then, the oldest

The Overall Winners F irst P lace

Power House by Tae Jun Park UNIS Hanoi, 16 to 18-year-old category

S econd P lace

Snow in Saigon by Yeonwoo Kang ISHCMC, 10 to 12-year-old category

T hird P lace

Our Beloved Sky by Le Quoc Anh Minh Lawrence S. Ting School, 13 to 15-yearold category

April 2013 Word | 89

girl among us would bring out a scary story with her face lit up like a balloon by the torch underneath her chin. To be honest, I hated scary stories, and I never actually listened to those endless tales of meaningless ghosts and the rise of the undead. However, the feeling of having all my best friends sitting and lying right beside me, and the moments where we would scream, laugh or tremble together mitigated the horror and the darkness that pervaded the world around me. Other times when a new family had recently moved into the apartment, there

The Shortlist 7

9- year - old

category

Travel Around the World by Caitlin Ross, AIS The Inspiration that Made it Possible by Andrew Anh Quoc Tran, AIS The Crystal of Life by Luong Quynh Hoa, ACG

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T hese 10

would be boxes out in the parking lot that the family had thrown out after unpacking. However in our hands, trash became treasure, as these boxes became the walls and roofs of the greatest castle in the world. And having built the tremendous castle, we would take turns being the legendary knights that defended the castle gate or the vicious ninjas that tried to overtake the throne. Regardless of who played which role, our stories always ended dramatically with the victory of the brave and heroic knight. When I was alone, things became much

are the top

12- year - old

more intense. My own dark, imaginary universe was coloured with games, books, cartoons and even small parts of my dreams that I was able to recall in the morning. I would often dress myself with a small thin blanket around my neck, swaying around a jungle as a gigantic killer butterfly, or sometimes whizzing through the thick forest of tall skyscrapers as a flying superhero, or even sometimes crawling under the blanket, to disguise myself from the evil patrol guards just like I had seen in Lord of the Rings. Other times, my brother and I would gather in front of a tall candle, and become

stories picked out from all entries .

category

The Swing Set by Abbey He, ACG Brothers in Arms by Vuong Hong Khoi, Singapore International School My Brother by Lim Zhuo Jun, BIS Snow in Saigon by Yeonwoo Kang, ISHCMC Run by Sam Nicholas Kouteili, AIS Deadly Music by Lysis Brunet Parde, AIS

15- year - old

category

The Seventh Colour of the Rainbow-Blue by Dao Thi Van Anh, Singapore International School Our Beloved Sky by Le Quoc Anh Minh, Lawrence S. Ting School Burning Passion by Jamielle McKinnon, AIS

18- year - old

category

Power House by Tae Jun Park, UNIS Hanoi Toxic by So Hee Jeong, UNIS Hanoi My Island by Charlotte Louise Porter, UNIS Hanoi

special martial artists who took turns turning out the fire in our own ‘cool’ styles. The classic method was to use the wind from flicking our fingers, together with a fancy arm movement imitating kung fu that was inspired from one of those old, Viet-subbed Chinese films. From then on, we would constantly challenge each other to perform a fancier and more difficult movement to turn out the fire. However, the most exciting part of power cuts was when I got to light the gas stoves. Obviously without any electricity, it was impossible to light the gas stoves using the knobs that usually clicked the fires to life. Instead, during a power cut, I had to use real fire. After endless pleading and whining when my mum finally allowed me to do the job for her, I would disappear into my room, turning all my toy boxes upside down looking for my Scream Halloween mask. With the mask over my face, wearing a thick winter jacket, I pictured myself as a bomb disposer dressed in what looked like a spacesuit, slowly approaching the bomb tangled with red and blue wires. And carefully, like choosing one of the two coloured wires, I flicked on my lighter and lowered my hand towards the dark stove. “Click…… click…… click…… click…” In front of my eyes, a ring of bright blue and yellow flames burst out. Then, like a caveman, I would dance around the stove,

showing off my accomplishment to the whole family. According to my experience, the name “power cut” was never accurate. They never enervated me or cut me off from power, but instead empowered me with freedom and an absolute control of my own exciting and adventurous world. The absence of light, the absence of the sizzling TV and the absence of the buzzing refrigerator that had a hiccup issue formed a whole new, different environment. While I was able to see nothing around me due to the lack of light, on the other hand, it also meant that there could be anything around me through my own imagination. Power cuts became the paintbrush and the clay that I moulded and painted to create my own world and story, filled with my own colours and shapes. Even finding my way to the bathroom became a mysterious and thrilling adventure, where the only thing I relied on was the small beam of light from my torch. Through the absence of power, my imagination, too, became the wild dog let free from its chain. Coincidently, the dark dystopia with no lights that people think of nowadays was actually the utopia that the Sai Dong children and I used to imagine seven years ago. Power cuts were not moments of emptiness or scarcity but were epochs of creation and freedom. They were much more valuable than any other lessons or any other games, and they have become the pure black pearls of my childhood memory. It

needed no greed, no pressure, no limitations and no hatred — yet the blackness of the power cuts in my memories remains bright, colourful and inspirational. As I’ve grown up and become more dependent on fancy tablets and expensive smart phones, I no longer build castles out of boxes, or share scary stories with the neighbours or leave on a journey to find the lost treasure during a power cut. Actually, I often find myself quite upset and frustrated without any internet or electricity. However, sometimes when I walk through the door and see the ceiling dyed in red by the flames of the candle, I can still feel the small jewel inside me sparkle just a little, quite like how it used to seven years ago when I first heard the air conditioner burp and the TV screen zap into its black hole. “Burrrrrrrp!......................Zzziip!”

With Thanks… The fifth annual HoaSen Short Story Competition was organised by the Australian International School (AIS) and was sponsored by Asian Tigers, Lamy and Word. Word is inviting the three winning writers to compose a 900-word article on their experiences as a student living and studying in Vietnam. The best article will be published in the June 2013 issue of Word.

April 2013 Word | 91

Glowing, healthy-looking skin has always been the ultimate goal, and this season itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back to basics with a high-gloss wet style and minimal eye makeup to keep the balance and focus on the skin. A highlighted face means your skin looks dewy and youthful, perfect for that summery look.

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There’s always been a price on beauty. Whether it’s tolled in the use of mink lash extensions or having to read magazines with Kim Kardashian in them, it’s been seen as one of the sacrifices needed to reach your best self. That changes this runway season. The rest of the world is finally catching up with Ho Chi Minh City temperature-wise, and Kardashian’s cakey face and smoky eyes have been replaced with a more natural, sunset look. Graphic liners are hot, and dewy skin is in. Our model takes it one step further with Lash Snob’s silk lashes, looking toward a fashionable future with cruelty-free eyes.

y t i r u P b o n S Photos by Mads Monsen Modeling by Frederikke Lindholm Makeup by Lesley Johnson Styling by Francis Xavier Shot at Saigon Outcast (188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2)

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Bold lips are still rocking the runway â&#x20AC;&#x201D; from classic red lips to saturated neon pink. Just make sure the finish is matte so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not too overpowering.

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Pearlescent oyster tones and ocean-inspired textures are most popular when it comes to smoky eyes this season. So set aside that boring brown and put on some shimmer, try on turquoise, emerald green or midnight blue to see which colour is yours, and rock on.

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Sunset colours are the star of this summer. Peach, apricot and mango work on almost every skin tone. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be scared to use peachy shades on your eyes, something with a sheer, reflective or cream texture. If you think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s too much you could always skip the eyes and go with a peachy gloss for a little kiss of summer.

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Lash Snob started out when Lesley Johnson, a professional makeup artist out of Canada, decided she wanted to expand her business into eyelash extensions. Using the highest quality products, each silk lash is applied to the natural lash and can last up to eight weeks. The model in this spread had extensions applied and used no mascara, giving her the fullest, natural-looking lashes possible. Lesley Johnson is a makeup artist who has been doing it professionally for 12 years. She has experience in bridal, editorial and runway styles, which she draws on for classes and consultations. For more information visit lashsnob. com or email info@lesleyjohnson.net

Black liner is the little black dress of the makeup world. Classic, flattering and edgy. This season itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got a twist that adds a little more definition to the eyes, an extended flick to the crease roots in a 1960s look.

April 2013 Word | 97

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City Guide BUSINESS 100 / EAT 107 / BARS 117 / CAFES 121 / ARTS 125 / LEISURE 126 / WELLNESS 131 / FASHION 135 / INTERIORS 138 / ELECTRONICS 140 / GROCERIES 141 / GENERATION V 142 / TRAVEL 147 PHOTO BY ALEXANDRE GAREL

ADDITIONAL FEATURES

Job Search Top Eats Decks, Drums Night Watchman In the Frame Body & Temple Crazy Kids

104 110 114 116 126

128 146

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BUSINE$$ * *

* *

From accounting to advertising to serviced apartments, our selection of some of the city's top businesses

Accounting & Audit BUREAU VERITAS

E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 3812 2196 bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions in all major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC.

DELOITTE VIETNAM

ecutive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED

7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 3812 5562 odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0751 deloitte.com/vietnam Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries. A member firm of Deloitte Touche Tohatsu.

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com With more than ten years of experience in Vietnam in all major industry sectors, PwC provides auditing, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 0220 globaleye.com An invaluable resource for expats, Globaleye provides consultation on investments, offshore banking, education planning, life protection, wills, pensions and more.

KPMG

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9266 kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides ex-

100 | Word April 2013

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Headquartered in the Netherlands with over 100 offices in 75 countries, TMF provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Specialises in help-

ing international investors establish a presence in Vietnam.

Advertising & Mktg ADMAKER

Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3500 admaker.com.vn A local full-service agency run by advertising professionals, dedicated to providing clients with results-orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM

Asia, Cowean specialises in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies.

DDB

7th Floor, 246 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9000 DDB Vietnam Group is part of DDB Worldwide global community. Our talent, cultures and ideas are united by the fundamental belief that creativity is the most powerful force in business. Our creativity, along with our conviction and collaboration builds influential brands for our clients.

with over 10 years of working experience in Asia offer (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for plastics, consumer products, electronics, and metal parts.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3615 marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented locally and globally recognized campaigns.

Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8632 bates141.com A full-service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group. Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM

BBDO VIETNAM

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam This full-spectrum marketing / communications company offers PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

PHIBIOUS

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

PURPLE ASIA

74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN 16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com Working extensively across

13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn One of the largest global advertising agency networks, with headquarters in both Chicago and New York, DraftFCB has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries.

GREY GROUP

Villa B, 12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com Dutch industrial designers

company, Purple Asia offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company combines local know-how with a worldwide network to leverage the brands of multinational clients. 7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6777 phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI. Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3898 1005 purpleasia.com A leading communications

PBB GRAPHIC STUDIO Tel: 01265 669632 contact@pbb-studio.com www.pbb-studio.com Founded in 2002, with more than 10 years of experience in graphic design, PBB specialises in branding, interior graphics, signage, print design, POSM and web design. As of 2006, PBB has been based in Ho Chi Minh City operating as a graphic consultant for creative agencies, companies as well as private clients.

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

10 Phan Ngu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID

Tel: (08) 3925 2538 riverorchid.com Communications network operating in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade, specialising in advertising,

design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

DL TECHNOLOGIES

3 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM

Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, with marketing services including strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0779 xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

Business Consulting BDG VIETNAM

11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 bdg–vietnam.com Active in sourcing & production, strategic marketing and project management, BDG partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open perspectives, address critical challenges and promote successful business in Vietnam.

CONCETTI

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1480 concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the Vietnamese government, global US consumer products companies,

69A1 Tran Ke Xuong, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3551 2260 dltechnologies.com.au DL Technologies provides premium integrated technology solutions with emphasis on local “on the ground” support from a highly skilled international team. Services include home entertainment, security systems, air conditioning and energy-management systems.

ERNST & YOUNG

8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5252 ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO

goldenspeedseo.com Helps clients get maximum exposure for their websites by improving rankings in search engines like Google. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants work in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity, and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 0916 352573 inspiredimage.co.uk An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong Nguyen offers personal consultations and

corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES

8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6416 prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering expertise in data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE

6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com Specialist in intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services, from the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com Aids in the opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts and provides licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing to offshore businesses based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884 strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL strives to deliver superior results and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia via corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion and market research.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402 xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and professional development. Services include team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

Business Groups AMCHAM

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562. amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org BBGV promotes the interests of its members in addition to the more general inter-

ests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM

Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM

12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5423 nordcham.com Provides support for Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM

40/5 Pham Viet Chanh, Ward 19, Binh Thanh pbgvn.com A non-profit organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding and to serve as the voice of Filipino business entities.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

economic and cultural activities, as well as cooperation between Swiss business entities and Vietnamese authorities.

Corporate Gifts AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and more.

Event Management EVECOO

Tel: (08) 0988 297990 evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the touches to make any event memorable.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall has four ballrooms, a rooftop terrace, and banquet, catering and event services. Gala Royale is the ideal venue for meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings or anniversaries.

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org 300+ members meet regularly to foster HCMC business relations, as well as to organise social, cultural, educational and charitable activities. Membership grants access to a wide range of discounts around town.

MR BOUNCY INFLATABLE GAME HIRE

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6675 2620 vietnam-weddings.com Wedding planning business offers comprehensive services for weddings of any size or style. Delivers high-quality, detailed plan-

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a non-profit organisation that strives to promote

50/8 Hoa Binh, Q11, Tel: 0165 6392 507 mrbouncy.com.vn Mr Bouncy is an inflatable game hire company, hiring out a number of inflatables such as waterballs, bouncy castles and more inflatable items for parties and events.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

April 2013 Word | 101

{BUSINESS Buff} ** Invest in What? * * By Shane Dillon

ning and resources to create dream weddings.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to make any kind of event a success.

Expat Services CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 chumshouse.com Dedicated to helping expats find housing, Chum’s House provides an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference. Also facilitates motorbike rentals and visa acquisition, all free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE

Choice of fancy

Stamps

Due to the fact that many stock markets have experienced high volatility in recent years, the ever-growing bands of wealthy Asian citizens are finding some interesting alternative investments. The following are some of the more bizarre, yet real investments people are making in the region.

Recently a collection of four stamps from the Cultural Revolution sold for over US$1 million at a Hong Kong auction. Stamps, like wine and art, have experienced a marked surge in prices as wealthy Chinese have sought out alternate investments.

Walnuts

345 grams of high-end Chinese teas like Pu’er, which can be more than a century old, can cost over US$25,000. A tea grower that used panda dung to fertilize his tea plant sold 50 grams of tea for US$3,500. The Asian fascination with tea has been likened to the Western fascination with wine.

Going for up to US$10,000 each, walnuts that play a traditional role for the emperors of China and wealthy older people are gaining in popularity again. Especially sought after are walnuts with carvings, or those that are hundreds of years old.

Racing Birds A long-time hobby in the region, people are spending some serious coin on pigeons in the hope of creating good blood lines for the future, as they do with race horses. Current prices are as much as US$300,000 a bird, and some experts believe this could increase two-fold in the coming years. Most sought after are imported Belgian birds.

Jade In the early 2000s an ounce of Jade was around US$300 (VND6.3 million), in 2010 the price was over US$3,000 (VND63 million) and more expensive than gold. Prices have gone down in recent years and many believe the Jade bubble could burst at any time.

102 | Word April 2013

Aged Tea

Moon cakes The Bank of Communications is reportedly selling a 500gram gold moon cake at US$3,340 (VND70 million), while ICBC Bank is offering a gift box of two 50-gram gold moon cakes, inscribed with auspicious motifs and Chinese characters, for US$6,820 (VND143 million). The popularity has raised questions about the practices of Chinese officials since they largely placed the orders and the moon cakes typically weren’t gifted to family or friends. Shane works in financial services, he can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 happy-house.vn Happy House aims to make Saigon life easier by offering practical solutions to every kind of problem — including bill payments, repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam, Resident Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

Housing & Real Estate CBRE

Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news. Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3529 colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and renters in all matters related to commercial and residential property.

CREATION

International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553 A real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sales, leasings, rentals, free brokerage and aftersales service.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 4707 cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy.

EASY SAIGON

easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

HOMECONNECT BY TRANSPO

Tel: (08) 3914 7003 homeconnect.asia/en/vietnam HomeConnect by Transpo provides a home search service to expats already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas, with a full range of relocation services available to new arrivals as well.

KNIGHT FRANK

Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

REAL QUEST VIETNAM

1 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8516 realquestvietnam.com Real Quest Vietnam staffs a mix of foreigners and Vietnamese to find houseseekers good homes at affordable prices.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 8185 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading

HOUSINGINTERACTIVE

property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.

SNAP

snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SPOT

18/34b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 955877 spotvietnam.com Native English speakers specialising in rentals and tenancy management.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and lease around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE NEST

369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

Insurance BAOVIET INSURANCE

Tel: (08) 3825 8416 interglobalvn.com Offers hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits for anyone up to age 74. Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. No claims discount available.

IF CONSULTING

1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

Tel: 6255 6774 www.housinginteractive.com HousingInteractive offers an easy-to-use, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website allows users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time. Upon selecting, HousingInteractive’s professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

Language Schools BELL VIETNAM

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IGLOBALASSIST

Tel: 0934 874271 jpruss@iglobalassist.com Represents insurance programs offered by Seven Corners, and other global insurers. Customized health and travel cover options available at competitive rates for corporations, individuals, families, students, and groups.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a range of services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare.

PRUDENTIAL

Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0999 prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, Prudential has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

Investment & Finance DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider, with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP

ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t–wm.com Offers personal financial planning for expatriates, portable retirement savings plans, tax minimisation strategies, asset allocation and money management, debt and cash–flow planning, life, disability and health insurance and family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM

51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER

33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com Offers classes to francophone and other foreign children and adults. Classes include monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), Vietnamese lessons and extracurricular activities.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and central campus or at your home, office or over Skype.

VLS SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlsstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com Provides Vietnamese language training by qualified and experienced teachers, and expert certification, notarization and translation for all types of materials and documents.

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected language institutions in the city, VUS offers programmes that are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York.

UNIVERSAL ENGLISH CENTER

110-112-114 Street No. 2, Hung Gia 5, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 3300 www.uec.edu.vn A fast-growing English language center in District 7’s Phu My Hung, UEC was founded in 2009. Now with 500 students drawn from 17 different nationalities, the classes are served by over 35 native English speaking teachers who are committed to providing a culturally diverse and engaging classroom atmosphere. Offers a wide range of classes from beginner levels through TOEFL, IGCSE, SAT and IELTS. UEC also provides support to students aspiring for a place in international schools.

Legal Services ALLENS

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm providing standard legal services to corporate clients, Allens’ website is also an excellent resource for English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provides on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vietnamese context on all matters of business and commerce.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

Crisis times 10 tips to save on your HEALTH insurance bill:

#1 Trim benefits you don't need: do you still need maternity cover? #2 Limit your area of treatment to South East Asia: you don't need to pay Europe treatment costs anymore #3 Mix and match to your family members needs #4 Use deductible/excess: by accepting to pay the 1st dollars get a discount

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide. The Vietnam office offers clients high quality service that combines legal expertise with a highly commercial approach, across all sectors of business law.

#5 Use co-payment: pay 20% of outpatient bills and get a discount

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

#7 Buy cheaper local insurance cover

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established in 2006, Indochine Counsel assists both in-

#6 Negotiate a loyalty discount

#8 Ask for a no claims discount #9 Form an affinity or company (starting from 3 or 5 employees) for group rates #10 Call IF Consulting: Anna 0909 379256 or email insurance@vnn.vn for FREE ADVICE Our SNACK service to clients: since 1994, we Select, Negotiate, Administrate, Claim and share Knowledge of insurer's and Vietnam

April 2013 Word | 103

{JOB Search} ** First Impressions Last * * By Jeff Bonnin

ternational and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994, the firm provides clients with a full range of legal services in all areas, including corporate, real estate, banking and finance and all forms of inward investment.

Management Training BRAINBOX VIETNAM

ttending interviews with potential employers is probably the most nervewracking part of looking for a new job, but is an integral part of the job search process. Making a good impression and marketing yourself is key to securing that job. However, wondering what to say, what to do and how to act during the interview can stress even the most seasoned interviewee. Nevertheless, if you follow this simple guide it can lessen your worry and increase your chances of success.

1) Do your research — learn about the company Get up to speed on the company and their industry. Check out any recent developments or news about them and find out their plans for the future. Look at their mission statement and values, and align your answers with them. Get a feel for their corporate culture and determine if it would be a good fit for you. Research the position you’re applying for so you have a good sense of salary levels, working conditions and current market trends.

2) Find out who you’re going to be talking to Who will be doing the interviewing and what do they expect? Check out their LinkedIn profile.

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Talk to anyone you know who has ever worked with them. If you have any contacts at the company you’re interviewing with, talk to them if you can for an insider’s perspective.

3) Know your own resumé Make sure you’re familiar with what is in your resumé. Refresh your memory about dates and career accomplishments and look for ways to draw parallels between your history and the responsibilities of the new role. Think about which examples from your past are most relevant to the position. Bring extra copies of your resumé just in case it’s needed.

4) Be ready for the hard questions Chances are they will ask some challenging questions, besides the usual strengths / weaknesses questions, so it pays to have figured out responses ahead of time. Plus, be ready for the curveballs — questions thrown at you with a new spin on them that may catch you off guard.

5) Come prepared to ask questions Asking the interviewer questions shows that you’re interested in the company and understand its business. Questions that indicate your desire to grow and progress, and to go above and beyond are always good.

6) Check your references Get in touch with your references. Give them a heads up about the position you’re applying for and that they may be contacted by the company.

7) Dress for success Be well-dressed and properly groomed for the interview. Know exactly where you’re going and arrive 10 to 15 minutes early. Be friendly, respectful and positive with everyone you meet. As an employee you become a representative of the company. They will be assessing you in the interview to see if you would represent their company well.

8) Don’t forget to follow up Be sure to show your appreciation afterwards by sending an email or note thanking them for their time and indicating your enthusiasm for the position. It’s a good way to differentiate yourself and stay on their radar. The time you spend in advance preparing for your interview will pay off in terms of making you look polished, professional and worth hiring. If you require further information, please visit adecco.com.vn or email jeff. bonnin@adecco.com.vn. Jeff Bonnin is the Business Manager, Professional Staffing at Adecco Vietnam

5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6920 7405 brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

EMBERS ASIA

4th floor, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com The first team-building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in ensuring success in globally competitive markets. Embers’ HR performance management services include excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn With campuses throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes to tourism and hospitality, all the way through to MBAs.

G&H

6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

INNOVATIVE TRAINING 2020

Tel: 0128 3327472 innovativetraining2020.com Innovative Training 2020 provides tailored training courses combining soft skills with English, offering training and development in all industries — hospitality, banking, healthcare, IT and local government.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402 xageconsulting.com

An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and professional development. Services include assessment and development, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

Market Research CIMIGO

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION

11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8989 epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company operating the largest online panel in Vietnam. Offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6965 indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis and trade promotion.

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com Global information and measurement company, with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM

13th Floor, Room 1312, Kumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6288 8785 synovate.com A global market research company that works on competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies, Synovate combines global research capabilities with personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific needs.

TNS VIETNAM

105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5727 tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

Public Relations MASSO GROUP

30 Dang Tat, Q1 massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand-building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS

Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications. com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA)

1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2989 universalmanagementasia. com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through

effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

Recruitment & HR ADECCO VIETNAM

11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 8800 hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is one of Vietnam’s top three HR consulting firms, specialising in finding opportunities for senior level professionals. Other services include payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM

8th Floor, Resco Building, 9496 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0950 manpower.com.vn The first global recruitment company to set up locally, Manpower offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT

4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 3115 mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services in a wide variety of industries, including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing.

NAVIGOS GROUP

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5000 navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including

executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM

2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 8209 opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups.

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM

39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 7900 robertwalters.com.vn Offers a professional recruitment service, specialising in sales and marketing, technical healthcare, accountancy and finance, banking and financial services, human resources, IT, supply chain, engineering and oil and gas.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM

Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9488 towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com Online job-search website with one of the best selections of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

Relocation Agents AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3521 0071 www.agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relo-

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cations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS

Tel: 01225 141848 joel.garbutt@alliedpickfords. com.vn www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL

9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7799 asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5325 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam, Resident Vietnam provides a full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850 seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range

of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001-14001 certification in Vietnam.

Serviced Apartments APATO

15B/107 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 apato.com.vn Rooms for rent in Districts 1, 4 and 7. From VND5 million to VND9 million per month with laundry, cleaning and facilities included. Minimum stay of two weeks or one month available, no deposit required.

CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully

furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay.

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown, Cityview has 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, billiards lounge, kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES

Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

JASMINE COURT

307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh jasminecourt.com.vn Five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes.

NORFOLK MANSION

17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside–apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one to three-bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a

ASIAN

TIG

ERS

48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and inter-

national transportation of household goods.

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luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628A Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q1 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK

5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

EAT[

]

THE 100 * * TOP RESTAURANTS

Want to know the best places to eat or drink in this city? Here is our pick of the top 100 restaurants

French & Italian CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA BRASSERIE DE SAIGON

FRENCH / PARISIEN 38 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 3657 Chic art nouveau decor surrounds this dining experience – but the streetside seafood stand draws the focus back to where it should be, on the fresh, authentic Parisian cuisine.

LA CAMARGUE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 4888 A romantic, indoor setting creates the atmosphere at this white tablecloth mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine, it also boasts excellent desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in

white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LA TRATTORIA DEL BUON VINO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 01634 991625 delbuonvino.com Serving traditional Italian cuisine with a contemporary flair, Del Buon Vino (the Good Wine) also features a beautiful lounge on the 3rd floor for

relaxing with friends and a glass of wine.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3692 luccasaigon.com A contemporary trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a beautifully designed space with high ceilings. The menu features both traditional antipasti and substantial main courses.

MARGHERITA

ITALIAN, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760 A family-run restaurant selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas to hungry backpackers for well over a decade. Amiable service and reasonable prices make a very pleasant eating experience.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ)

FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: 0903 852956 kcafevietnam.com French backpacker area mainstay attracting a clientele made up of Gallic expats and tourists. Excellent food menu with daily specials backs up a long bar seating area perfect for cradling a Ricard.

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1

Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

STELLA CAFFE

ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9220 Two-storey Stella serves very reasonable Italian food — antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata plus meats and fish — at reasonable prices. Also has Wi-Fi, cool aircon, and one of the best lattes around. Now no-smoking indoors.

TROIS GOURMANDS

CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4585 Trois Gourmands is the successor to the legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh, and continues to serve up

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April 2013 Word | 107

{R I S I N G Sun} **

By David Robinson

some of the best Gallic fare in town. The seven-course, wine-paired dinner remains excellent value.

International AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 0838 238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Excellent delivery service.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, is hand carved at your table. Can get busy.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

BEIRUT

LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 2188 A Lebanese restaurant and shisha lounge located downtown, encompasses a multiple-floored restaurant and extensive garden area. As the name suggests the menu has a Lebanese/Arabic theme.

BLACK CAT

apanese food can be pretty pricey in Vietnam, so it’s a relief to find some restaurants that are more affordable, and Gonta ranks favourably in this regard. With a bang-dead-centre location on Le Lai it is an ideal meeting place for a bite with workmates. However, word of warning — lunch consists of only Vietnamese dishes, so it would be need to be a dinner affair. You can relax during the evening with skewers of yakitori nicely priced between VND10,000 and VND22,000, although the sushi is a little more expensive with a small dish of California rolls weighing in at a hefty VND88,000.

Skewered Where Gonta really comes into its own is in terms of atmosphere. The bar-style

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Photos by Kyle Phanroy

dining in front of the chefs is spacious with a contrasting cream and black décor. Upstairs is the party room for larger groups with small tables and zashiki for seating. Long bamboo stems along the first floor walls, arcing across the ceiling, make for an intimate and warm dining experience. The subdued lighting gives it a natural, candlelit feel. Everything at Gonta is tasteful and well crafted, from the furnishings down to the hashi boxes. I was especially pleased to hear Japanese pop music playing at just the right volume to be enjoyed without being intrusive. The yakitori selection is acceptable and consists mostly of chicken skewers, although the most delicious and attractive item on the menu is the grilled asparagus wrapped in bacon. For only VND10,000 a skewer you can

nibble on eggplant or grilled garlic, which is moist and well cooked in addition to a few other vegetarian items. These are all complemented by Gonta’s special soy sauce recipe which has been handed down for over 30 years. It was pleasing to see that Sapporo draft was only VND25,000, although a Coke weighs in at VND38,000 — making Gonta’s pricing seem a little imbalanced. The yakitori dining is casual and fun, and Gonta’s set platter represents excellent value with 12 skewers of meat for only VND150,000. Overall, Gonta is a hit due to its casual but refined atmosphere and good value. You won’t be disappointed. Gonta is at 196 Le Lai, Q1. Prices cost from VND10,000 to VND22,000 for yakitori, VND80,000 for sushi. A Sapporo draft costs VND25,000

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

BAHDJA

87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

{ } BAD Egg

Coming back from a weekend getaway, we decided to head down a quiet country lane and sample the local food. A Vietnamese restaurant with a rustic feel and open space was our eatery of choice. The waitress handed out the menu and we ordered accordingly. She then returned, saying, “Sorry, we only sell large portions, not the single serving that you ordered.” No explanation was given. This followed a pattern as our four requested dishes had to be ordered in large portions. While this was going on, a local couple seated themselves and ordered one of our previous requested dishes without a problem on portion size with a different waitress. Clearly the manager wanted us to part with more money. Not giving in to being extorted to order more than we wanted we decided to leave and ignore the noise coming from the waitress and owner. The Foursquare networking site came to the rescue. Taking a quick scan — after leaving a future warning review of the establishment — we then headed 14km closer to town and found a highlyrecommended Japanese restaurant where the food surpassed our expectations. It was not a quiet country lane like the more romantic rip-off joint, but the service was impeccable. The restaurant soon filled up with patrons and we ended up having a lovely meal and forgot our Bad Egg experience. — Mads Monsen

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomerang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink The city’s first contemporary German beer bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers well known German beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine —sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed yet chic drinking hall setting.

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 7622 This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-your-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CIRRUS

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Level 51, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8751 cirrussaigon.com Highest dining in the city. Modern international and pan-Asian fine dining cuisine with 360-degree sweeping views. Open theatre kitchen, mezzanine seating and 300+ label walk-in wine cellar.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3915 6006 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon Buffet restaurant specialising in a boutique selection of appetisers, local and imported seafood, succulent steaks from the grill, and hand-crafted noodles. Bakery operates throughout day to ensure that every dish arrives fresh.

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn Mogambo is one of the city’s longest running establishments. A well-known expat meeting spot, with dishes running from fajitas and burritos through to the coronary bypass burger, gumbo and ribs.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

PASHA

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677 pasha.com.vn Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. Authentically Turkish cuisine with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

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{ TOP Eats } ** Reviews * *

Photos by Quang Dao

et just off of Bui Vien, Zeus is a gem of a restaurant serving traditional Greek food. Open for just over two months and owned by an affable Greek named Eftichios Mountakis and his wife Sammy, Zeus has a simple formula — everything is homemade, from the sauces down to the pita bread, and is made to order. Due to this or maybe the rather cheap prices, the joint can get quite mad for lunch, with expats jostling backpackers around the sparse seating arrangements — there are only two tables. Our group of three was lucky enough to grab a spot, and started looking through the menu which is simple and filled with Greek classics such as feta salad and a slew of souvlakis and kebabs. A souvlaki will cost you VND30,000, while salads and mains run from VND85,000 to VND140,000. We ordered a few souvlakis, a feta salad and — just to push the gluttony level to 11 — a portion of kebabs. The feta salad came fast. It’s a huge portion, dominated by a slab of feta cheese atop large chunks of cucumber, tomato and onion, with a mouth-puckering lemon vinaigrette sprinkled on top.

Show me the Souvlaki The kebabs and souvlakis came next. The minced pork was spiced perfect and had a great crust. The portion came with fries, sliced onion, tzatziki, tomato and lettuce dressed with a mustard sauce. However,

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it was the souvlakis that everyone was waiting for. A traditional fast food in Greece, these sandwiches are meant to be eaten on the go. And Zeus doesn’t disappoint on authenticity. Served in parchment paper that can be easily ripped open, the souvlakis are wrapped in a home-made pita bread which covers slices of succulent pork or chicken, tomatoes, onions, fries and a tangy tzatziki sauce. The tzatziki was such a hit that we promptly ordered a side of it. After the meal, I had a chat with Eftichios about his establishment. Arriving in Vietnam in 1996, he founded a shipping company and married Sammy soon after. He’s run a few companies in Vietnam since then, but the thought of opening a restaurant serving traditional Greek food was always at the back of his mind. Starting small but thinking big, he is looking to expand the menu by offering Greek coffee and sweets in the future, while still maintaining that simple, authentic approach to the food. A formula that I can get behind. — Quang Dao ZEUS 166 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3837 3253 Open daily, 10am to 11pm Free delivery — minimum VND100,000

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

WARDA

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 Old images of Saigon grace the walls while a pianist plays in the background of the Caravelle’s signature restaurant. The fare is surprisingly contemporary. Good choice for a particularly special meal.

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

ZANZBAR

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/ pages/scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375 Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambiance, combined with a conversationfriendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon’s go-to destinations.

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

Japanese

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A wellthought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

STRATA

INTERNATIONAL/ASIAN Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750 cirrussaigon.com All-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express business lunch, high tea, and buffet dinner, along with an a la carte menu.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008 Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the menu here focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also rice and dumpling options.

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita, from Osaka, Inaho features some of the best sushi and sashimi in town, with faultless ingredients and presentation.

KABUTO TOKYO

JAPANESE / FUSION 45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2351 Kabuto Tokyo offers typical Japanese cuisine, and fusion dishes in a dramatic environment with Manga cartoons on the walls, golden ceilings, Japanese armour and huge carp steamer lantern displays.

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Noodles can be found in every form in this sleek, open-kitch-

ened eatery. Noodles are served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527 Japanese eatery specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoalgrilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, and various other meat and vegetable options are good, too. Great lunch set.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Does a great set lunch deal.

Pan-Asian ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant.com Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BABA’S KITCHEN

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114 Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine. Simple fan-cooled dining area with all dishes costing well under VND100,000.

CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 Owned by a Thai-trained Viet-

DELIVERY BEN’S STYLE

Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

A Taste of Authenticity

DOMINO’S PIZZA

Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

EAT.VN

www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

EL GATO NEGRO

Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN

www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

LOTTERIA

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

PHAT PHUC’S

2A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4520 British-style pan-Chinese

PIZZA HUT (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

SCOOZI

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

TACO BICH

www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

WILLY WOO’S

Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon. com US-style chicken and waffles

VIETNAMMM

www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

ZIPANG

Tel: (08) 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm. com for menu

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00

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www.pendolasco.vn

{ FOOD Promos } Last Call

** PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH * *

Last Call is doing you a solid from 9pm to 12am nightly, by shaking up your Grey Goose bottle into delectable cocktail form. Forget the soda, their clever cocktailians are on the prowl for fresh juices, Triple Sec and all the other fine accoutrements of classy, Martini-glassed drinks like Lemon Drops, Cosmos and Kamikazes. Last Call is at 59 Dong Du, Q1

alike. From the baked salmon Florentine to the Vietnamese chicken curry, you have the freedom to choose from a variety of delish dishes. Enjoy this intense buffet in the company of family and friends — VND1.2 million++ with free flowing wine and beer. The glitz and glamour of Hollywood is descending on Level 23 for one night only, and you’re invited. 8pm the night of Apr. 12, break out your red carpet-ready threads and enjoy a free welcome drink for everyone in attendance. Top it off with live music from Saigon’s premiere international band and a staff dressed to the nines, and you’re in for a night to remember. If you start feeling crabby about your food routine, head to Li Bai on Sheraton’s 2nd floor to freshen your spring appetite with their new flower crab delectables. Li Bai offers a variety of prepared crab dishes such as steamed flower crab with shao shing, wok-fried flower crab with chilli and garlic, or braised vermicelli with flower crab in a clay pot. Don’t forget about the classics, though, that make Li Bai an excellent Chinese restaurant such as the Sunday dinner buffet from 6.30pm to 10pm at VND860,000++, which of course includes the free flow of drinks.

includes airlines, hotels, restaurants and food, and beverage suppliers’ employees. Little Black Dress Thursday Nights is happening at 2 Lam Son. Slip into your favourite LBD for an evening of sophistication and fun. Those dressed to impress will receive buy-one-get-one-free cocktails and have a chance to win lucky draw prizes. saigon.park.hyatt.com

sheratonsaigon.com

Hotel Equatorial

A Taste of Thailand The excitement of the New Year continues! The Square at Novotel Saigon rings in the Thai New Year in culinary style this month with special Thai dishes available from Apr. 13 to Apr. 15 only. Delicious dishes include tom yum gung, som tam, green curry chicken and many more, with free-of-charge boxed juices or soft drinks for dining groups of four or more. Enjoy buffet dinners for VND420,000++ per person, or add free flow of beer and soft drinks for an additional VND100,000++. novotel-saigon-centre.com

Sheraton Saigon During the Liberation Day (Apr. 30) and Labour Day (May 1) holiday celebrations, get into the spirit with a feast of spectacular display at Saigon Café. Liberate your taste buds with local and international favourites

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Chit Chat is all about anniversaries this month, celebrating the anniversary of the Hung Kings on Apr. 19 and a Liberation Day rebirth on Apr. 30 with sumptuous buffets. Each meal includes local and international specialities like seafood, BBQ, sushi, sashimi, hand-made desserts and free flows of beer and wine — VND880,000++ per person. For the whole month of April, Orientica is holding a Szechuan Festival, offering the delights of Szechuan at rates of VND80,000++ and up per dish. Discover why they call Szechuan the ‘heavenly country’, and don’t miss the chance to experience true Szechuan flavours in Ho Chi Minh City. equatorial.com/hcm

2 Lam Son 2 Lam Son will reward thirsty hospitality workers every Wednesday with some deals — the first such industry night in Ho Chi Minh City. Simply present a business card and receive a buy-one-get-one special on selected bottles. The service industry

New World Hotel Guests are welcome to join a fun-filled night at Dynasty restaurant. From Apr. 18 to Apr. 28, Chef Ho Wing Sang will create traditional poon choi, a special Chinese hot pot featuring nine layers of fresh and tasty ingredients, cooked to perfection in an authentic clay pot. During lunch and dinner, guests can enjoy this speciality with locally grown seasonal vegetables, freshly caught seafood, succulent chicken and duck, and the finest cuts of beef and pork, layered with herbs and secret spices to ensure a fabulous feast priced at VND542,000++ per person. The Chinese combo hot pot is available at Dynasty from 11.30am to 3pm, and 6pm to 10pm, and is available for a minimum of four people. A 10 percent discount applies to Platinum members. newworldhotels.com

* * * TOP 100

Want to know the best places to eat or drink in this city? Here is our pick of the top 100 restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City. Feel we're missing something or have included the wrong places? Simply email editor@wordhcmc.com

namese chef this is one of the few eateries in town serving up very good pan-Thai cuisine. Great value, with mains generally around VND70,000.

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant. vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn Excellent, long-running restaurant with classic Thai decor. The fare includes laab salads, curries, som tam, fish cakes and dishes such as deep-fried catfish with mango salad. Three VIP rooms upstairs.

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn Hong Kong casual dining restaurant, Gourmet’s Delight Roast Kitchen is the first of its kind in Saigon serving authentic barbeque and traditional Cantonese dishes in a laid-back atmosphere.

KABIN

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic five-storey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken

curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

MONSOON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

SEOUL HOUSE

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular with a cosmopolitan clientele. Food includes banchan starters, bulgogi, awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

TANDOOR

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Downtown location, and extensive menu taking in anything from creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to vindaloo, sambhar, dosa, and kebabs. Also a great range of vegetarian fare.

THE PUNJABI

NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 3777 Don’t be duped by the veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Portions of both vegetarian and meat dishes are big, too.

VICKI’S

TEPPANYAKI & BBQ 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3232 vickis.com.vn This seven-floor restaurant is headed up by Thailand’s number one teppanyaki chef. The all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, preparing meat and seafood on traditional teppanyaki grills.

YU CHU

PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

Street Food BANH XEO 46A

BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1110 One of the best banh xeo — pork, beansprout and prawn pancakes served up with salad and fresh herbs — joints in town. No frills, outdoor, covered bench seating.

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, optional pate or eggs, all for well under VND100,000.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU

COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0935 comtamthuankieu.com.vn Downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery. Broken rice with barbecued pork, bitter gourd broth, stuffed squid etc. Average meal price just VND35,000. English menu.

PHO HOA

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943 Huge sized portions dished up at this famous restaurant serving Vietnam’s national dish. Choose from a range of cuts of beef, fresh herbs and spice to taste.

TAN HAI VAN

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0824 Bustling 24-hour restaurant offering the full range of Chinese fare, including dim sum, homemade noodle soup, rice and seafood dishes. Perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751 comgahainam.vn Few places do Hainanese-style chicken rice as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from chicken, sweet-roasted pork, roasted duck, and a range of other options.

Vegetarian PHAP HOA

VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3839 5893 Good vegetarian eatery with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with a range of faux meat dishes. The staff, though, are not know for their politeness.

SAIGON VEGAN

VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3834 4473 A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat specialising in hotpots. The

vegan menu, however, runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, vietchay.vn Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received many plaudits for its setting, reverent ambiance and interesting menu which includes salted tofu in claypot and hundred flowers hotpot.

Vietnamese 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbecuing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer, all grilled at the table. Often packed to the brim.

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340 barbecuegarden.com A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair.

CAFÉ IF

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

CUC GACH QUAN

MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3848 0144 A converted French villa with mixed Indochine and rustic Vietnamese décor, the cuisine here is scrumptious, mixing street food dishes done well with quality ingredients and more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the ChineseVietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com Highly rated restaurant with

April 2013 Word | 113

{D E C K S

Drums & Rock'n Roll}

** Hibaya Line* *

Hibaya Line gets all decked out, and Matt Bender uses the word ‘eargasm’. Photos Kyle Phanroy

J Dan — aka Hibaya Line, named after one of the deepest subway tunnels in Tokyo — is more than just another pretty face with a hot record collection. First, he has a great record collection, making him the rare house DJ who can spin three hours of eargasming stuff you’ve never heard before. He hosts the Optimist Club, a roving late-night event designed to be an “affordable party with house, techno, disco and great people” every Thursday. And the dude is looking forward, with a long-term goal of opening a creative contemporary arts space, fusing music, dance, theatre and other interdisciplinary endeavours. Half-Swiss and half-Vietnamese, Dan grew up in the bustling city of Lausanne, Switzerland, coming to Vietnam in 1999 to “learn the language and spend time with

114 | Word April 2013

my Vietnamese family”. When he returned in 2009 he met Linh, who was just starting up the Everyone is a DJ series. Aside from Linh there were only two other music promoters in town at the time.

Things Happen Storybook stuff: Dan meets Linh. They talk about music. They talk about the scene (or lack thereof). Dan waves goodbye to Lake Geneva, settles down in a little two-bedroom place in the Co Bac neighbourhood and the two of them get to work on starting a new enterprise, Sound Adventures, a monthly showcase for international audiophiles. Barefoot and watering a clump of potted plants with odd little fruits hanging off of them, Dan casually mentions that the first DJ they arranged for Sound Adventures was Voodoo Funk — the Afrobeat

enthusiast who regularly flies to West Africa to dig through crates of rare, bug-eaten vinyl, and whose blog was recommended by the Beastie Boys — and I choke a little on my nuoc mia. “That’s a pretty big pull for your first show.” “Yeah,” says Dan, nonchalant, “he’s cool, you know?” Next up for Sound Adventures is Bottin, the producer and sound designer who, while still in his early 30s, has released nine LPs, a list of remixes the length of a Saigon street viper, and is being hailed as a frontrunner in the Italian nu-disco movement. See him live at the EADJ fourth anniversary show at Broma (41 Nguyen Hue, Q1) on Apr. 6. Be sure to check optimistclubsaigon.blogspot.com for updates on the next gathering

stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — strips of grilled marinated beef, as well as its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

MAY RESTAURANT

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 5/2 Hoang Sa, Dakao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1277 Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261 namgiao.com Down an alley near Ben Thanh Market, this pleasant Hue-style eatery is known for its excellent central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen, all at under VND50,000.

NHA HANG NGON

STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented Vietnamese eateries which serves up quality street food.

PAPAYA RESTAURANT

PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 1508 Papaya is one of the city’s unsung gems. The cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap and portions are large.

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Imperial Hue cuisine mixing dark brown Indochine décor and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

XU RESTAURANT

MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com Elegant Xu is a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare includes pork wanton, seared beef crostini, and Xu-style chicken rice.

April 2013 Word | 115

{ NIGHT Watchman }

t’s light outside, but it doesn’t feel like it should be. Last night was a happy blur, and you feel slightly regretful as you see what you spent, remember who you kissed or search around for a mobile phone nowhere to be found. One thought bounces around the aching walls of your head as you mechanically get yourself ready for the day: I’m getting too old for this.

** The Cure * *

The Science of Hangovers There are a lot of superstitions on the subject. The search for the cure is one of the things that has driven the price of powdered rhino horn higher than cocaine. Bartenders might prescribe a shot of Fernet Branca, a Bloody Mary, a glass of ginger ale with a few shakes of bitters. Even The Bible — God! — weighs in: “Woe unto them that rise up early in the morning, that they may follow strong drink” (Isaiah 5:11). The medical term is veisalgia — an amalgamation of the Norwegian kveis (‘uneasiness following debauchery’) and the Greek algia (‘pain’). Complications include head and body aches, fatigue, sensitivity to light and sound. Those are caused by dehydration, lack of sleep, genetic and lifestyle tweaks to your body’s defenses. You lose salt and potassium through all that peeing. The headaches result from your dehydrated body organs stealing water from your brain. Hangover cures are a fun thing to look up on the internet. Under any article on the subject you can expect to see a dozen or so comments, each so passionate about their version that you begin to suspect the lack of pig’s blood in the title material. Some examples: “Milk thistle. Seriously!” “Eat as much lettuce as you can… It must soak up the alcohol because once I was staggering drunk and my buddy stopped and bought a head of the stuff and made me eat it.”

116 | Word April 2013

“A hearty breakfast of noodles and root beer are a must! Starch and sugar.” “you guys r all silly... the best hangover cure with out fail is to drink again in the morning and bam! ur good to go =)” And of course, the always helpful: “The best cure of all is to not pick up that first drink!!!! Bam — no hangover.” Milk thistle works. It’s a herbal supplement that boosts your liver’s ability to process alcohol, which is the problem you’re having. Drinking from the hair of the dog that bit you — taking a ‘repair beer’, as the Austrians say — isn’t recommended, as it just forces your already over-taxed body to deal with more alcohol, although a Bloody Mary gives you plenty of the vitamins you lost back. The jury’s still out on lettuce. Water, of course — coconut

water is even better (Jimmy Buffett’s real favourite drink isn’t a margarita — it’s a fresh coconut with a shake of gold rum and a lime). Noodles, or any carbs, are better before the binge, soaking up excess stomach acid and slow the rate of alcohol absorption (fat is also key — some Mediterranean types drink a teaspoon of olive oil before going out). Science is on the side of light, easy to absorb morning-after calories like cereal or toast. But sometimes, f*ck science.

In Search of Stodge The good news — a 2009 Newcastle University study came out in support of bacon, which is loaded with amino acids that will clear that foggy head of yours. And there are a few places in town to get a generous helping. If you’re in the mood for

Vietnamese, bun cha Ha Noi has some bacon-style grillade alongside fresh greens, and pickled vegetables floating in tangy bun cha sauce (vinegar, fish sauce and sugar). The exceptionally clean stylings of Song Nam (17 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1) provide a version that isn’t weighed down by the excess oil of some of the danker streetside options. District 1 is also home to some legendary western breakfasts, such as the ‘Fat Cat’ at Black Cat (13 Phan Van Dat) and ‘The Lumberjack’ at The Elbow Room (52 Pasteur), both replete with bacon, eggsany-style (also money on that hangover), pancakes and home fries. Little known fact: any good breakfast must have a snazzy title. Au Parc (23 Han Thuyen, Q1) breaks this rule in elegant, build-your-own style, with cleaner, more continental offerings dressed up with homemade chocolate spread and jams. The similarly unadorned L’Usine (151/1 Dong Khoi, Q1) gets even funkier with ‘brekki’ burgers and ham-and-swiss croissants. District 7’s Boomarang (107 Ton Dat Tien) adds a minutesteak to the mix, although it loses points for only serving breakfast until 11.30am weekdays. Or maybe it’s you who lose points in that case. District 2 has a nice selection of spots, with Snap Café (32 Tran Ngoc Dien) and Mekong Merchant (23 Thao Dien) providing relaxing ambience, Vino (1 Duong So 2) doing creative weekend sustenance and The Deck (38 Nguyen U Di) giving you all that plus yoga sessions Monday, Wednesday and Friday. But that’s assuming you can get off your ass and go anywhere. Maybe it’s enough just to open the shades, rifle the fridge and flick on a movie. After all, you’re going to need some rest before the next go-round. — Ed Weinberg

DROPS] [ BARS * THE TOP * OF

Drink and be done by, or as the t-shirt tells us, khong say, khong ve. Our pick of the best drinking haunts in Ho Chi Minh City. Think we've missed somewhere? Email us on editor@wordhcmc.com

Bars & Restobars 107 PASTEUR

MICROBREWERY / RESTOBAR 107 Pasteur, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8619 biatuoitiepvn.com After spending 30 years in the Czech Republic mastering the Gambrinus brewing technique, 107 Pasteur’s owner has returned to Vietnam to share his craft (and tasty Czech cuisine) with beer enthusiasts.

2 LAM SON

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wideranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

ACOUSTIC

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

ALTO HELI BAR

TOP-END LOUNGE BAR Floor 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8752 altosaigon.com The jazzy, lightbox-lit space by the helipad in the city’s highest building is more than just great views. Top-end cocktails, a great tapas menu and a chilled ambience make up the mix.

APOCALYPSE NOW

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, Apo draws in a not-so-healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals, who dance to Top 40 tunes on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace. This is a pick-up joint in every sense of the word.

BERNIE’S

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1720 berniesirishpub.com Bernie’s upstairs dining room and casual downstairs bar make a great place to indulge in international cuisine or chow down on a burger while watching a sports game or a live band.

BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 This popular downtown three-storied bar at-

tracts late-night revelers thanks to its past midnight opening hours, regular DJ sets, and London-style bar décor. Has a great upstairs terrace.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 Boudoir’s sun-drenched conservatory, plush salon, old-timey cigar room and upscale library will please any lounge enthusiast. Features breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées, as well as International DJ sets on weekend nights.

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1720 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent Hue-Brewed Huda beer

April 2013 Word | 117

{T O P Shelf} Photo by Kyle Phanroy

ou look around, and you’re surrounded. Do you play some pool? A game of foosball? Or do you hunker down for a few over an epic chess battle? You pinch yourself. Is this your cool uncle’s basement rec room? No — you’re in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 7 at Café Monopoly. The brainchild of Korean entrepreneur Chung Seung-il, Monopoly is along the strip of eateries and pubs in the heart of the city’s biggest Korean enclave. But when Chung saw the number of foreign teachers in the neighbourhood, he decided to delve into his considerable stash of board games and offer them something beyond just drinking and watching sports on TV. “When (teachers) have free time, I think they want to play board games,” Chung explains on the airy patio. “Teachers like to use their board games.”

118 | Word April 2013

** Café Monopoly * *

Middle Earth Risk True enough. An avid game collector, Chung admits that games involving financial strategy, like Shark, are among his personal favourites. “I like games about Wall Street,” he says. But the two huge bookcases in the middle of the bar would put Toys “R” Us to shame. The usual suspects like Scrabble and Cluedo (and even Twister!) are mixed in with more exotic fare like Carcassonne, Settlers of Catan and Illuminati. For those gamers who have an afternoon free, various versions of Axis and Allies and other strategy games eyeball you on the way in. An interesting assortment of framed giant moths and beetles makes for different décor than one finds lounging on a plastic bia hoi chair or trying to tune out the blasting speakers at the clubs in District 1. Café Monopoly also serves up food in

the VND50,000 to VND80,000 range, and occasionally gets taken over by flip cup and beer pong at night. “I think it’s a fun activity [going to Monopoly] since going out usually just revolves around drinking,” says Milan Fry, a 27-year-old English teacher from New Jersey who lives nearby. “There are a lot of board games. Where else can you play Middle Earth Risk? It’s fabulous.” If you can’t find a game that piques your interest, you’re not trying. Some of the international titles that may not be familiar to English speakers are also worth a look. Apart from some French and German games, a certain Japanese version of Jenga is a favourite with bar patrons. “Woody Unbalance? The fun is in the name!” Fry exclaims. — Harry Hodge Café Monopoly is at R2-25 Hung Gia III, Q7. It’s open noon to 1am daily

* * * TOP OF THE DROPS

Drink and be done by, khong say, khong ve. Our pick of the best drinking haunts in Ho Chi Minh City. Think we've missed somewhere? Email us on editor@wordhcmc.com

served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

BROMA

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2080 Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

CARMEN

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699 Named after the famous opera, Carmen has built its reputation on offering a mix of nightly live Latin music, most notably flamenco. Its striking design is a treat for the eyes as well.

CHILL SKYBAR

LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE Floor 26 & 27, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5630 chillsaigon.com Chill’s view has only been improved by the addition of a magnificent VIP terrace. A substantial wine list and specialities from the owner’s native Denmark complement the primarily French-influenced cuisine.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951 The creators of Velvet present this trendy, doubletiered escape, complete with upstairs garden space, an extensive wine list, top shelf spirits and unobtrusive music.

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 This hip marriage of living room-of-working-architects and opium den is populated with vintage furniture, records and a thoughtful, intimate vibe. Its only streetside markings are a few Chinese lanterns.

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 9575

A slightly grungy corner joint banging out indie and pop tunes, Go2 draws in all walks of life at all hours. Whether you’re looking for affordable Thai / Vietnamese / western cuisine or late-night debauchery, Go2 delivers.

fully overhead, an expansive mural of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, multi-genre musical attractions, and famous western breakfasts and Mexican dishes, Hideaway awakens the senses and appeals to cosmopolitan sensibilities.

GODMOTHER BAR

ICE BLUE

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.

HARD ROCK CAFE

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn If you’re craving for American food, classic cocktails, rock n’ roll memorabilia, and live music, Hard rock delivers all three in large doses. Stages regular events including ladies’ nights and stand-up comedy.

HIDEAWAY

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 40/15 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 799962 With swings dangling play-

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2664 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

INSOMNIA

LATE NIGHT RETRO 13B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1074 Plush couches, hookahs, soft lighting and artsy retro decoration, combined with affordable drinks, friendly staff, and the ability to request or play music makes this a great place to bring friends. Open Late.

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such

as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 23rd floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city make this a choice venue for enjoying live performances from the international house band. Expect a bit of everything from jazz to R&B, with five-star prices to match.

LAST CALL

THE LIBRARY

LE PUB

LONG PHI

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters. INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 lepub.org Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, cnr. Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 The Library captures the romance of a bygone era, offering a sophisticated snack menu and a nostalgic afternoon tea from 2.30 pm to 5pm. A great place to hang out in five-star luxury. FRENCH / RESTOBAR 003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

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MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4659 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com Cover bands of the pop, jazz, rock, and Latin persuasion, flattering lighting, and ample choices of vintage wines make this crafty cocktail bar a destination for Saigon’s 30-plus Vietnamese / expat population.

O’BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 3198 This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0908 208523 saigon.outcast@gmail.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

PACHARAN

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 6924 pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multi-storey homage to everything Span-

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ish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PHATTY’S

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beerguzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

QING

WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION 110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar offers a well-rounded wine list and a pan-Asian fusion menu that boasts crowd pleasers like Asian tapas. Also features a highly rated international standard massage parlour upstairs. Open late.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR

ROCK BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08) 6290 7489 The promoters of Rockfanclub (the long-running Vietnamese hard rock and metal night formerly hosted at Tadao Coffee Bar) have found a home for fans to mosh in every night from 9pm. This is rock in its rawest, most grass roots Vietnamese form.

RUBY SOHO

LOUNGE BAR S52-1, Pham Van Nghi, Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 6039 rubysohosaigon.wordpress. com Owned by French animation designers, this spacious double-tiered lounge offers classic French dishes, a set lunch menu every day from 11am until 2pm for under VND100,000, and a 3pm to 7pm daily happy hour.

SAIGON SAIGON

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Live Latin music in its various forms is this fan-cooled, Old Saigon-style bar’s main attraction. With the international bands performing nightly, Saigon Saigon also benefits from great views, polished service and a vibrant ambience.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West, and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2, and Guns n’ Roses. Top-shelf spirits and friendly, hostessstyle table service are the name of the game here.

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its wall-length mural of Copenhagen attracts a variety of patrons and provides them with a wellstocked bar and extremely tasty Danish-influenced pub grub.

THI CAFÉ

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929 It’s a well-worn Saturday

night path that starts at Thi Café, where Saigon’s better funk and rock cover bands can be danced to downstairs or listened to from the underutilized upstairs lounge. A Backpackers’ Area mainstay.

T&R TAVERN

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1 T&R is a popular setting for late night fun and questionable decisions. The bar’s laptop allows patrons to choose their own soundtrack to a pool / darts game, danceoff, or…whatever else they’re doing.

TRYST LOUNGE

1st Floor, Gemadept Tower, 6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 1637 trystlounge@ddds.vn Specialising in French and Vietnamese cuisine cooked up by an experienced chef, Tryst Lounge serves up its tasty fare at all times of the day, making it a venue for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Complemented by healthy mixed juices, Illy coffee, creative cocktails and a good selection of wines at affordable prices, the space has a chilled atmosphere, and is great for hanging out both indoors and on the outdoor terrace. Has live acoustic and Latino music every weekend courtesy of well-known Cuban outfit Warapo.

UNIVERSAL BAR

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com Just up from Bui Vien’s street beer nexus is Universal, a live music and sports-watching venue with

an outdoor seating area that lets you take in the action from a more comfortable perspective.

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 2888 A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 6299 1315 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

Nightclubs FUSE

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com Neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese crowd. A small space means this place gets packed quickly, so arrive early to enjoy bumping techno, whisky and fruit platters.

LUSH

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2496 Overseas DJ’s, Tuesday night ladies’ nights and cosmopolitan clientele converge in the red-velvet and cartoon-styled interior that makes Lush one of the city’s iconic clubs.

VELVET

DANCE/HIP HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com You will be hard-pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and über trendy in Saigon. Packed with socialites, celebrities, and fashionistas, Velvet’s the place to see and be seen in this city.

Quan Nhau ANH DUC’S

QUAN NHAU 18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 This plastic-chair establishment is the effective living room of the room-renting expats in the alley surrounding, featuring cold beer, easy conversation and a friendswith-everyone proprietor.

BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 102 Bui Vien, Q1 Beloved for its cheap, cold beer, prime people-watching, and elderly but toughas-nails hostess, Bia Hoi or “Grandma’s” is a favourite of locals, expats, and backpackers alike.

MINH CHAU’S

BIA HOI 75 Bui Vien, Q1 Right across from “Grandma’s” you’ll find this comparable street-side establishment serving cheap beer. Minh Chau’s plastic chairs are populated by a more foreign crowd, due to the hotel upstairs.

CAFES[ ] COFFEE *

CUP

If there's any industry where Saigon excels, it's the industry that is all things coffee. Here is our list of some of the best places to drink coffee, tea and everything else non-alcoholic in this city.

Cafes AGNES CAFE

invited to lounge with their coffees and browse simultaneously.

DALAT COFFEE & FLOWER SHOP 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 agnescafe@agnescoffee.vn A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offer a western-fare breakfast menu with a traditional egg breakfast sandwich, homemade breakfast burritos and more from 7am-11am.

AU PARC

AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fastfood style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge. Check website for movie locations and schedule.

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 3398 anscafe.com Eat, drink, and buy furniture at this beautifully designed café located down alleyway 38. Doubling as an interior design showroom, customers are

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BOBBY BREWER’S

BONG DEN CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 118/11 Tran Quang Dieu Street, Q3, Tel: 0903 736313 A small, simply designed café tucked down a small alley away from the noisy outside world. Enjoy acoustic music shows on the weekend and drinks starting at VND22,000.

CACOPHONY

LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: (08) 3932 2797 cacophonycafe.com Set in a three-storey colonial villa, this cafe devotes a unique stylistic sound and decor to each floor, with the ground level dedicated to live music five nights a week.

CAFÉ DAT

VIETNAMESE 343/17 To Hien Thanh, Q10, Tel: (08) 3863 2832 A unique, rustic décor travels

through this spacious cafe, from its garden to terrace to their cozy indoor seating. Bamboo, streams, and lush plants create a serene atmosphere.

CAFÉ ME

CASUAL CAFE 8A Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3926 2828 This picturesque coffeehouse is full of charm, providing a quiet location to relax or read from their ‘Borrow-A-Book Nook’. A perfect blend of coffee and creativity.

CAFÉ PARK BACH DANG

VIETNAMESE 10B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In contrast to its trendy, stylish café neighbours, the basic outdoor seating and affordable menu makes for a modest, less pretentious experience with drinks around VND15,000.

CAFÉ SCREEN GOLF

SPORTS CAFE 384/1B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3526 8480 Three-screen indoor rooms, one putting room, and an area for food and drink set this café apart. Play for VND400,000 per hour or hang out and watch others.

CAFÉ SONG ME

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 125/3 Hoa Hung, Q10, Tel: (08) 3865 2075 Secluded and difficult to find, Song Me is a perfect chill out spot to sit surrounded by water and lush plants or opt for indoor sofa seating. Drinks reasonably priced.

CASBAH

MIDDLE EASTERN Alley no. 59, Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 8382 4130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of

the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ BAR 213 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0902 514757 An up and coming hole-inthe-wall cafe, Chicco Dicaff serves an extensive menu of coffee, ice blended drinks, lattes and Italian sodas at affordable prices. Delivery available.

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{T HE Coffee Cup} ** A Café Awakening * *

CHUONG GIO CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 386/5i Le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: (08) 2212 8560 Explore the interesting artwork or listen to beautiful melodies as you escape for an hour in this warm, cozy café that doubles as a music and theatre venue.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7825 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it's fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GAC HOA (ATTIC) CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 92/17 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3507 1418 A unique theme and decor secluded from the city bustle create a warm space that values both art appreciation and coffee love, with drinks starting at VND30,000.

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 169 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8659 In typical French fashion with fresh pastries, groomed waiters, and elaborate portions of ice cream, Givral is located opposite Continental Hotel Saigon, offering prime city viewing but higher prices.

GLORIA JEAN’S Photo by Nick Ross

ocated down a small alley off of Ton That Tung, the Tibetan Coffee Shop is just a stone’s throw away from the backpacker habitat, yet a world away from its lifestyle. A love for Tibet and Vajrayana Buddhism are the cosmic foundations for this place, setting it apart from the more common coffee-chic escapes. Step inside and immerse yourself in a distant land of Buddhist and Tibetan culture. The café is three storeys, each floor lending its existence to a different purpose but fashioning together a holistic atmosphere. All floors are Tibetan style, featuring dark wood furniture imported from Tibet and majestically coloured walls filled with photos of lotus flowers and Padmasana yoga poses. The smell of incense lingers in the air and Buddhist music fills

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the background, as the words of the Dalai Lama — “The actions of each of us, human or nonhuman, have contributed to the world in which we live” — find expression on the wall.

Art, Tea and Coffee The first floor, designated for friendly get-togethers or work meetings, is home to a collection of the owners’ souvenirs and colourful hand-crafted items. Browse through incenses, purifying perfumes derived from natural herbs, and rare seedlings from the foot of the Himalayas. Venture to the second floor, set aside for light reading or work, to find yourself in a Zen hideaway with comfortable floor seating, accompanied by cushions of vivid brocade. Go up another flight and true café art takes form on their small stage, where guests sometimes experience

musical performances. Despite what the ‘Coffee Shop’ part of the name suggests, only two options of coffee are on the menu, Vietnamese coffee with or without milk. So save the coffee order for the outside world and continue to enhance your senses by ordering a Tibetan masala or butter tea for VND40,000. Or choose from an impressive list of smoothies at around VND50,000 each. Dishes such as the green mango salad or Tibet garlic sauce congee may be the best deal on the menu, priced around VND45,000. Eventually real life will pull you out, as it does. Don’t be alarmed if you catch yourself whispering namaste as you venture back into the city, leaving this tranquil sanctuary behind you. — Deirdre Appel The Tibetan Coffee Shop is located at 28/11A Ton That Tung, Q1

INTERNATIONAL 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn International coffee chain found throughout the city. It may not provide an authentic Vietnamese experience but it does offer comfortable seating and killer ice blended chillers to help beat the heat.

HIDEAWAY

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

INTERNATIONAL Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5689 The flagship store of this upscale, somewhat pricey, coffeehouse offers western-style and local-style brews, with other branches also found in prime locations around the tourist area. Cappuccinos and a mediocre café experience costs above VND30,000. But the Wifi is good.

HIMIKO VISUAL CAFÉ

CAFE/ART GALLERY 324bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10, Tel: (08) 3888 1908 Renowned for its appreciation of art, Himiko is a hybrid of café and art gallery. Regularly displaying the work of young artists, an atmosphere unlike many others flourishes here.

I.D. CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety

of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

I’M YOURS

MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan This tiny café pairs nightly live music with a warm-coloured, rustic decor. The combination of young Saigon artists and striking wall decor makes it worthy of the crowd it draws in.

KITA COFFEE

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com Kita's colonial-era building and bistro-style decor will have you thinking you've been transported to the streets of Europe. Pair your experience with an espresso-based Italian coffee from their Mediterranean-based menu. Excellent sandwiches and salads.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espressobased coffee.

LA MAISON CAFÉ AND GALLEY

CAFE / GALLERY 163 Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan Inside this striking white house is a space devoted for art enthusiasts and café-goers alike. Browse the arts and impressive decorations and enjoy homemade milk and cakes.

LE PETIT CAFÉ

FRENCH 189 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 7868 A small space is met with a warm, luxurious design in this romantic French-style café. Menus change daily but the friendly staff ensures customer satisfaction.

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 3565 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L'Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back.

MONPERE CAFÉ

FRENCH 5H Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0458 This charming, mid-range café is filled with vintage decorations and architecture from the French colonial era. Live piano performances add a touch of romance on Wednesday and Saturday at 5pm.

NOSTALGIE CLUB

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 54 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3274 Unveil culture and admire old architecture and antiques in this villa converted into a café. Live drama Thursday evenings in the first floor cafe. Drinks start at VND30,000.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bambooshaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

PETITE NOTE

MUSIC CAFE 351/4A Le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: (08) 3931 6312 In a jungle of a place where vines wrap round stairwells, an all American playlist meets a typical Vietnamese menu. A living-room style music cafe with live piano on weekends.

PRINCESS AND THE PEA

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 63/18 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 9070 3159 Venture through an alley and up three floors to this unique, relaxed cafe. Casual, cush-

ioned floor seating and a simple, sensibly priced menu. Music on Wednesday and Friday evenings.

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 185 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 5038 soho.vn Spreading to four cafes in town, comfortable sofa-style seating with surprisingly cheap coffee and good WiFi makes Soho Coffee Lounge convenient to work, eat, rest, or play.

SLOW TIME CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 53/56 Tran Khanh Du, Q1, Tel: 0903 714525 Boasting a cozy space in a quaint wooden house, Slow Time is a simple, peaceful café serving reasonably priced Vietnamese cuisine and a range of café drinks.

STELLA CAFFE

ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9220 stellacaffe.com This pleasant, mid-range venue, best known for its coffee, offers some of the best lattes and cappuccinos in town. Choose from indoor and outdoor spaces as well as upstairs dining.

THE FIG & LOUNGE

CAFE & RESTAURANT 11 Nguyen Thi Huynh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2211 3544 VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL Positioned cozily down an alley in this less travelled part of town, The Fig's earthy, ecofriendly vibe is a gem that combines Vietnamese, Thai, and western cuisines tastefully, at prices between VND100,000 and VND300,000 a dish.

TRAM CAFÉ

VIETNAMESE 100 Tran Huy Lieu, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2240 5306 Tram Café combines modern and classic design creating an artistic harmony between earth and heaven that won't break your wallet. A sanctuary of nature awaits you.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn One of a growing number of downtown locations of the ever-expanding international homegrown brand, this pleasant two-storey café produces and serves their own coffee in distinct Vietnamese-styles in a comfortable, sophisticated atmosphere.

UP CAFE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3845 2155 A unique cafe with whole sets of upside down furniture and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up offers cafe drinks, cocktails, and simple Vietnamese cuisine.

YESTERDAY PIANO CAFÉ

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 28 Ho Bieu Chanh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3505 2727 Turn back the clock in this vintage café. Embrace your nostalgia with their black-andwhite photos as you indulge in a reasonably priced menu. Music Tuesday to Sunday evenings.

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows. The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

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{ CINEM A Buff } ** Film Buff * * Riseborough Genre: Action, Adventure, Sci-Fi A court martial sends a veteran soldier to a distant planet, where he is to destroy the remains of an alien race. The arrival of an unexpected traveller causes him to question what he knows about the planet, his mission and himself. Hits the screens on Apr. 12 at MegaStar and Lotte Cinema

3096 DAYS Director: Sherry Hormann Stars: Trine Dyrholm, Thure Lindhardt, Antonia Campbell-Hughes Genre: Drama, Thriller

LINCOLN Director: Steven Spielberg Stars: Daniel Day-Lewis, Sally Field, David Strathairn Genre: Biography, Drama, History Set in 1865, as the American Civil War winds toward conclusion, the film tells the story of the 16th US president, Abraham Lincoln, in his tumultuous final months in office. Lincoln endeavours to achieve passage of the landmark constitutional amendment that will forever ban slavery from the US. But his task is a race against time, for peace may come at any time, and if it comes before the amendment is passed, the returning southern states will stop it before it can become law. Lincoln must, by almost any means possible, obtain enough votes from a recalcitrant Congress before peace arrives. With the moral courage and fierce determination to succeed, his choices during this critical moment will change the fate of generations to come. Hits the big screen on Apr. 5 at MegaStar Parkson Paragon (3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7). Tel: (o8) 5416 0088). OBLIVION Director: Joseph Kosinski Stars: Tom Cruise, Morgan Freeman, Andrea

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IRON MAN 3 (3D) Director: Shane Black Stars: Robert Downey Jr., Guy Pearce, Gwyneth Paltrow Genre: Action, Sci-Fi, Thriller When Tony Stark — aka Iron Man — finds his personal world destroyed at his enemy’s hands, he embarks on a harrowing quest to find those responsible. This journey, at every turn, will test his mettle. With his back against the wall, Stark is left to survive by his own devices, relying on his ingenuity and instincts to protect those closest to him. As he fights his way back, Stark discovers the answer to the question that has secretly haunted him: does the man make the suit or does the suit make the man? Hits the screens on Apr. 26 at MegaStar and Cinebox

On Mar. 2, 1998, 10-year-old Natascha Kampusch was snatched off the street by a stranger and bundled into a white van. Hours later she found herself in a dark cellar, wrapped in a blanket. When she emerged eight years later, her childhood was gone. In 3,096 Days Natascha tells her incredible story for the first time: her difficult childhood, what exactly happened on the day of her abduction, her imprisonment in a five-square-metre dungeon, and the mental and physical abuse she suffered from her abductor, Wolfgang Priklopil. 3096 Days opens on Apr. 26 at Galaxy Cinemas (116 Nguyen Du, Q1; 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 and 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh)

ARTS

************

From our columns - For the Record, In the Frame and Decks ‘n Drums - to our listings, arts-wise this city’s going from strength to creative strength

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordhcmc.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

Arts Classes HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com This French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques, and more advanced artists how to release creativity.

THE TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHERS WORKSHOP

pstuckings@gmail.com; mark@driftphototours.com Peter Stuckings and Mark Stennett are professional travel photographers based in Ho Chi Minh City who offer workshops and tours to help you improve your photography skills.

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP

Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A creative group inviting new members every second Tuesday for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire. All levels are welcome from beginners to the more experienced.

VIN SPACE

4 Le Van Mien, Q2 Tel: 0983 377710 shyevin.com Vin’s Space is an intimate, light-filled space that offers artists a quiet space to work individually or share ideas. Weekly classes include oil painting, drawing and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

Books & Magazines ARTBOOK

43 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3502 1559 artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. The stock covers art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping.

FAHASA

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5796 fahasasg.com.vn Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is

one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English, French, Chinese and Vietnamese.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG 94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7859 Set in a mixed-colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallic-run bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC)

2A Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9650 pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam. Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction and non-fiction books as well as over 2,000 English language titles.

SAHABOOK

175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 6599 sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, they also stock non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, coin collections and travel fiction.

Galleries BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com Built in the 1920s by a wellknown local businessman, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Arts Center is an attraction in itself. Inside, Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878317 (Ms. Mai) cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its

founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

DUC MINH GALLERY

31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: (08) 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock-colonial mansion constitutes the private art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to the astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON

324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10, Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) himikokoro.com A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes. Open for five years, this cafecum-gallery has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things including Himiko herself.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4441 Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts what is possibly the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement.

SAIGON GALLERY OF FINE ART

Floors 2 and 3, 9 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 6570 Founded in 1999 with the objective of promoting contemporary Vietnamese art, the gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website.

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 1366; 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3181 phuongmaigallery.com

Established in 2004, these two galleries feature works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu. An eclectic range of styles is exhibited, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism.

SAN ART

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0898 san–art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY

53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 0966 tudogallery.com Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists.

ZEROSTATION

288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and longterm art projects managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy.

Performing Arts HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA

The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7419 hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Depending on the show, tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC

112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre holds classic piano recitals and orchestral performances,

and is closely connected to performance groups in the city. There are two concert rooms with two performances weekly.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY

Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn hcmcchoir.com This 40–voice choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3.

SAIGON PLAYERS

saigonplayers@gmail.com saigonplayers.com Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights every first Wednesday of the month and script nights every third Wednesday.

Production Houses CREA TV

339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3823 7434 crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisation and permits, art department work, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS

91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10, Tel: 0908 477079 factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films has developed content worldwide for documentary, web and TV, with experience in all stages of production from development through to post-production and delivery

Word tries to keep its listings as accurate as possible, but we can’t do this without yourself. So, if you see anything which needs updating or revising, please email us on listings@wordhcmc.com

April 2013 Word | 125

{IN The Frame} ** Finding Space Within Our Limits * *

LEISURE Time to release all that pent up energy - it’s not all work and propping up the bar, you know. Here are some ideas for better ways to spend that free time

Amusement DAI NAM THEME PARK

o Chi Minh City-based artist Phan Quang continues to transform San Art Gallery. His latest offering is the Space/ Limit exhibition, which runs until Apr. 26. The exhibit is threefold, a composition of photography, sculpture and installation that questions the social habits, desires and realities of a collective human existence. His art raises the issue of how the constructs of community affect the way we live our lives. It drives us to ask ourselves — to what extent does the community to which we belong place limits on our individual space? The community places constructs upon the individual, which sculpt everyday life. This collective behaviour may be so mundane, so regulated, so habitual, that it goes unnoticed. Through his work, Quang shakes himself from these unconscious habits and reignites his individual innovation. The exhibit brings in issues of popular media, cultural myths, customs and ideas of class. Stereotypes formed through K-Pop, family expectations of marriage, and the contrasting desires of city living with a need for a countryside escape are all explored as possible limitations.

A Mobile Home The material foundation of the exhibit is ‘mum’. Mum is a type of bamboo with great strength and support that is traditionally used in the construction of dome-like cages for chickens

126 | Word April 2013

commonly found on rural and urban street corners. Quang photographically and physically reinvents mum as ‘mobile homes’ in his exhibit. These mum-made mobile homes become a symbol of the personal spaces and limits set by the habits and expectations of life within a community. The space inside the bamboo cage is a metaphor for Quang’s own home and a visual challenge to his interactions with the world around him. Underneath resides the individual in its purest form, including the beliefs and thoughts that react with the community beyond the mum. Outside is where the individual becomes part of the whole. It is the community where the social habits and rituals take form. The interaction between this collective reality and the internal counteraction creates the lenses of the individual existence. And while it has the power to aid our integration in, and perhaps acceptance by, the world around us, it also has the power to create great tension between what is and what one believes should be. If this subjective imbalance is eliminated, perhaps a fluid worldview and consciousness is possible. Perhaps we must explore how to maintain individuality within a community while embracing innovation beyond what’s already established. — Deirdre Appel San Art is located at 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh

Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 3845845 laccanhdainamvanhien.vn This huge amusement park is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. A bus ride from Ho Chi Minh City gives you access to some amazing rides, a water-park and one of the better zoos in Vietnam. Located 45km away on Highway 13, just after Thu Dau Mot.

LASER TAG

5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun, ready for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDENS

2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3728 saigonzoo.net Dating from 1875, Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens has a vast collection of rare orchids and ornamental plants, and a collection of over one hundred species of animals.

Clubs & Societies INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM

ilvietnam.com This long–established social organization offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings (Thursdays at 10am) and

participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Please see website for details.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9000 parklandvn.com The Parkland Country Club offers a wide range of activities on its extensive facilities including supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, tennis courts, squash courts, pools, spa and a gym.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonatownclub.com This Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide sanctuary from the busy streets below. Facilities include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi. Members can enjoy alfresco dining at the ‘Coco Cabana’.

Cooking OVERLAND CLUB

36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com

Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy for persons of any ability. An introduction to traditional Vietnamese kitchen utensils is an added bonus.

Dancing DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2; The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung; Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio.

LATIN STREET DANCE

Geisha's Coffee and Tea House, 2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1 fred@salsaigon.com Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday. No partners needed, just buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate.

For our 7th year anniversary, get a free Vitamin C coupon for any treatment from VND900,000 and up from 2nd-7th April and 20% discount off for any treatment until the end of April for members.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to this studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”. Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS

saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday.

Fitness AIS SPORTS CENTRE

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) aissportscentre.com With a pool, astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay fit. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

AQUAFIT

Tel. 0909 008985 aquafit.vn Aquabiking classes help you strengthen and sculpt your body fast while keeping it safe for your joints and refreshing, thanks to the benefits of water. Suitable for all condition levels.

BODY EXPERT SYSTEMS

Tel: (09) 3478 2763 bodyexpertsystems.com Do you have limited time? Not seeing results? BES’s online software and memberships offer affordable and powerful tools to achieve fantastic fat loss, fitness improvement and overall wellbeing — anywhere.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1; 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring modern equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes like Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance and Body Combat. Word tries to keep its listings as accurate as possible, but we can’t do this without yourself. So, if you see anything which needs updating or revising, please email us on listings@wordhcmc.com

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA

19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool.

C Y R I L A N D YO U SPORTS CENTER

49 A Xa Lo Hanoi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril Terrones, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes Zumba, salsa, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10.

DIAMOND CLUB

H E A LT H

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found above this leading department store.

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR

Tel: (09) 8378 9318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise and nutrition programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 k1-factory.com K1 offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA, kid’s martial art classes and private fitness and conditioning. Open to everyone from kids to adults, beginners to professionals.

KIWIFITNESS

Tel: (09) 3478 2763 phil-kelly.com Kiwifitness provides quality, accurate, professional and effective fitness and health services to enrich people’s lives.

LA COCHINCHINE

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1812 lacochinchine.net A colonial–themed gym in a large, open–plan space, situated on top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 5181 lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyeng-

ar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Tae Bo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room.

NTFQ2

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

PAUL SIMOS

Tel: 01286 305982 paulsimos.com Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them.

PATRICK NGUYEN

Tel: 0938 156865 corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. There’s also a good place to take time out, by the poolside bar.

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4000 saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR

Tel: 01225 811080 sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano also offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 At this small but well– equipped gym the equipment is modern and staff members are extremely

April 2013 Word | 127

{ BODY and Temple} ** Non-Organic vs. Organic * * ‘Is organic more nutritious than non-organic?’ asks fitness expert Phil Kelly

he answer? We don’t know! There is no strong evidence or research that unequivocally proves that organic fruit and vegetables contain more nutrients. Researchers don’t think there is much difference nutritionally. What we do know is that local tends to be the most nutritious. Why is this? Locally grown fruit and vegetables that are ingested by your body within the shortest period of time after being picked or harvested have the greatest nutrient content due to the fact that nutrient content deteriorates through ripening and detachment from growth conditions. Therefore, if the produce has to travel across the country or globe its nutrient content is diminishing over time. There was a statistic I read a while ago that suggested the average meal made from ingredients found at a typical supermarket had travelled approximately 2,400km. You can imagine the nutrient damage that would have occurred in that time. Not to mention the time the produce spent in storage. Therefore, in regard to nutritional value, the best option is to eat locally grown produce, whether it’s organic or not.

Benefits The real benefit of organic is the absence of pesticides. Now there is a grey area when we talk about pesticide use, exposure and residue contained in specific foods. Here’s the thing — not all fruit and vegetables are highly contaminated. The Environmental Working Group compiled a list of the most consistently clean fruit and vegetables, and the dirty dozen. The Dirty Dozen is the produce that was found to contain high levels of pesticides/chemicals when ‘conventionally’ grown. The most commonly contaminated fruit and vegetables — which you should buy organic — are apples, bell peppers, blueberries, celery, cucumbers, grapes,

128 | Word April 2013

helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

STEPHANE LAPORTE, FITNESS COACH

Tel: 0908 897604 personaltrainers.asia Stephane Laporte is a certified personal trainer and sports massage therapist. Programmes include pre/ post-race preparation and therapy, triathlon coaching, corrective and functional exercises, weight loss/gain, TRX, Kettlebells, Capoeira and more.

lettuce, nectarines, peaches, spinach, strawberries, green beans and kale/greens. The produce that was proved to contain the lowest levels of chemicals were asparagus, avocado, cabbage, cantaloupe, eggplant, grapefruit, kiwi, mangoes, mushrooms, onions, pineapples, sweet peas, sweet potatoes and watermelon — all of which made it onto the Clean Fifteen List. These lists are based on American produce, but it gives you an idea of what foods to watch for, as farming techniques are fairly standard in developed countries. However, it is a very good idea to familarise yourself with the farming practices and regulations of your country, state and area.

Tips Here are some takeaway tips for fruit and veg: 1) Nutrient standpoint: it is best to buy locally-grown. 2) Pesticide content: organic is the better option, but choose wisely from the Clean 15 and Dirty Dozen lists, and be knowledgeable about the food industry in your location. 3) If you have the means and you want to buy all organic, then great. But look for local organic for a higher nutrient content with lower pesticide contamination. 4) If you’re on a tighter budget, buy local and wash them well. 5) Eat a variety of fruit and vegetables to minimize your exposure to any one type of pesticide. The important point is that you include a good amount and variety of fruit and vegetables in your diet. Vegetables in particular are ‘life givers’. They contain the substances we need for a strong immune system, detoxification of harmful chemicals and promotion of anti-aging properties.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking the Crescent complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

THE LANDMARK CLUB

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 9009 saigonriverclub.com This gym is equipped with advanced equipment, cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, sauna and steam rooms, plus studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with jacuzzi.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordhcmc.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

Basketball PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB

8 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

Cricket SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 Weekends The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations — Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka — plus a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club. New recruits are welcome.

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@marketedge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON)

Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)

Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469090 samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)

Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079034 npasifali@hotmail.com

Football and Rugby AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7, Tel:

0937 683230 vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play international footy matches around Asia. Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age or ability, all are invited to become an active part of the club.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

Contact Fred on 0919 709024 or Viet Luu 0909 500171. astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years.

SAIGON RAIDERS

jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com The Saigon Geckos play social touch rugby and also welcome men and women to join and enjoy drinks afterwards. There are regular tours of the region, as well as games with visiting teams. Beginners welcome.

SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

Golf LADIES’ FIRST GOLF

ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 2001 Visitors’ fees are around VND500,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course. 40 percent discount on Wednesdays. On the driving range, 50 balls cost under VND60,000. Equipment hire available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT

77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong, Tel: 0650 756660 songbegolf.com

This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city.

league, running on Monday nights, is open to both men and women from the ages of eight and up (including an adult competition).

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Long Thanh My Village, Q9, Tel: (08) 6280 0101 vietnamgolfcc.com This facility just off Highway 1 has two courses. Both 18– hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

Miscellaneous

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the courts. Private instruction is available for new players or those without a partner. Racquet rental with balls inclusive. Book in advance.

CAPOEIRA

25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail. com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance.

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long–established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Walking trails offered. Depart from the Caravelle Hotel on Sundays at 2pm.

RAINBOW DIVERS

Buddha Bar, 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0913 408146 divevietnam.com Diving courses and trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 international members. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts league, which runs a highly competitive competition for a growing number of pub– based teams.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball. Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

saigonshootersnetball@ gmail.com A friendly mixed netball

SQUASH

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

James: 0938 889899 Rina: rinabakher@yahoo. com. Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to midday. Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James or Rina.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 0909 458890 / 0903 042014 saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 4pm to 5.30pm.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

74 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6210 9192 xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 3, with an additional location in District 2.

Tennis KY HOA II

796 Su Van Hanh, Q10, Tel: (08) 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH TENNIS COURT

291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10, Tel: (08) 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club. You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour. There is also equipment for hire.

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Vietnamese Lessons PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES

Tel: 0908 604753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670771 vietnameselanguagegarden. com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalized, one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern and southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified / Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

Yoga & Meditation ANUPA YOGA

9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2394 www.anupa.net/yoga-anupa At anupa's private studio, we offer classes to individuals or small groups. The primary focus is to support students who want to regularly practise traditional yoga. For information contact us via email support@ anupa.net or phone.

DR. SHIVA

shivaprakashyoga@yahoo. com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City in different locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. Yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA

Tel: 0909 648193 michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga in-

structor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE

Tel: 01286 305982 myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon Pearl’s luxury, stateof-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week with experienced practitioners at varied times in a specifically designed softfloored studio.

SAIGON YOGA

Tel: 0908 352265 saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a Yoga Alliance ‘Experienced Instructor’. Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats and Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP

saigon-gompa.org Meditation group specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE

Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com. vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretary-general of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and nonVietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOUR

33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2; Lotus Road 28, Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 0903 873599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailoredmade relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available.

54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 3848 5347 shriyogavietnam.com Newly opened yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available. Classes are bilingual with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0255 starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym. Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non–member prices.

Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1; Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1Tel: 0905 735833 (Thuy) yogaliving.com.vn Conducts over 150 commercial and private classes a month and offers a variety of classes. A larger second studio provides a great space for yoga workshops, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE

YMC — YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER

84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 5813 soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in highquality yoga training, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and more with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga

Want to know what’s going on in this city? Go to

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shop also sells high quality yoga products.

Tel: 01266 626467 daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING

335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; Tel: (08) 3929 1707 ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes in different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow.

wordhcmc.com

WELLNESS From alternative medicine through to have that long sought-after nose-job and that once-a-year medical check, here are some the wellness options available in town

Alternative Medicine AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM

8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 6667 vietnamchiropractic.com A clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by Americantrained chiropractic physicians and an Americaneducated doctor of physical therapy. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, and sports injury rehabilitation.

CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT

Family Medical Practice Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice.com saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with a Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Viet-

nam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation.

DR. ASTRID MATARRITA PSYD.

Psychologist and Counsellor Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 01218 263167 astridmatarrita@yahoo.com Certified psychologist specialized in dynamic therapy focusing on improving emotional health and positive behavior. Personalised process design to help people suffering from emotional distress. Children and adults. English and Spanish.

GREGORY BEALE

2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: 01268 654202 gregbealetherapyfitness.com American-trained and nationally certified massage therapist and National Academy of Sports Medicine certified

personal trainer offering orthopedic manual therapy, corrective exercise and orthopedic massage, focusing on pain management well as injury rehab/prevention.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7 Tel: 0906 684969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, plus treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: (08) 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital

and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy — the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY — DAVID TRUONG TAN Tel: 0903 098124 osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN

Tel: 0937 442 516 sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu.

Home visits available.

THETA HEALING

Tel: 0918 591933 thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK-qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: 0903 873599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture which involves combining the energy of colour

and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for a variety of problems such as joint pain, stress, sleep issues, among others.

Cosmetic Surgery AMERICAN EYE CENTER VIETNAM

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: (08) 5413 6758 americaneyecentervn.com American Eye Center Vietnam offers a solution to different eye problems with eyelid plastic surgery by an American Board-Certified eye surgeon providing eyelid surgery as well as Botox and cosmetic filler injections.

CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: (08) 3923 8435 cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures are available at

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this modern hospital. With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, himyopia treatment, Botox and other cosmetic procedures.

DR. TU’S CLINIC

290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 7685 bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound–based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions. The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

EXM ESTHETIC MEDIPLEX

MD6, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: (08) 5410 0100 exm.com.vn EXM Clinic is a high tech skincare and dental cosmetic center that specialises in beauty enhancement. EXM is founded by the same people behind SIAN Skincare Laser and Westcoast International Dental Clinics.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 3366 fvhospital.com This modern international– standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, with expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare

medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3932 1090 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

Dental ACCADENT

Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

SMILE DENTAL

The Crescent, 173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com 9am to 12pm, 2pm to 6.30pm (Mon, Tue, Fri, Sat); 2pm to 6.30pm (Thurs); 9am to 12pm (Sun); Closed Wednesdays A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open MonSat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 3435 fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 8520 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

Hairdressers ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY

Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon. com.vn

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

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Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal.

THE SALON

ART HAIR

21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9660; 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

COLOR HAUS

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look.

37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: (08) 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp–looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest. 23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7700 colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you.

CONCEPT COIFFURE

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

JASMINE

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP

119 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7700; SD11,Panorama Phu My Hung, Tan Phong, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 3300 kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this outlet provides treatments, from a simple wash and blow-dry from a student to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist supervised by qualified instructors.

VENUS

YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy, YKC Hair Studio attracts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the welltrained staff and friendly English-speaking environment. Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used.

Medical AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS 273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10 Tel: (08) 3834 9941 australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health–checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in– house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: (08) 3923 8435 cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year. English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals, and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International.

CARE 1

AMERICAN EYE CENTER

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn.com AMERICAN EYE CENTER is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0757 care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)

1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 8888 Well–established and well– regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with international and Vietnamese doctors on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very

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reasonable.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out–patient care, check– ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

HUMAN MEDICINE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

601B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10, Tel: (08) 3977 8130 humanmedicineclinic.com Mottoed “Building Stem Cell bridges for everyone”, HMIC comprises a medical clinic and associated pathology laboratory with Applied Research Center of Regenerate medicine.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI)

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8520 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 1090 stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and

INDOCHINE SPA

general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3997 4545; 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Salons FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0599 famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN

LASH SNOB

Lash Lounge, Q7 Tel: 01205 100583 www.lashsnob.com Originating in Canada, Lash Snob has just recently opened another luxury lash lounge in District 7. We specialize in silk lash extensions and use only the highest-grade glue that has been approved by Health Canada. Each individual silk lash is properly and precisely applied to your natural lash, and lasts anywhere from 4 to 6 weeks. No need for mascara! You too, will leave as a Lash Snob. Make-up application also available. Book your appointment today.

40 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services, offers massages for the tired executive. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

tors offers body massages, facials, sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing. Also offers gentleman’s care.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

64A Truong Dinh, Q3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1218 lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visi-

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

SMOOTH

G20-022, Rd. 6 Hung Vuong 1, Q7, Tel: (08) 5414 8008 smoothwaxworks.com This modern salon provides waxing, nail art and manipedis to both women and men. Smooth aims to satisfy your cravings for luscious lacquer, silky smooth skin, happy hands and fab feet.

Spa AQUA DAY SPA

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

CAT MOC SPA

61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.

GLOW SPA

129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

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69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 indochine-spa.com Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur Street, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 0563 mekongblissspa.com 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm) Mekong Bliss Spa is a top place to enjoy authentic Vietnamese spa treatments. As well as offering an impressive array of services, part of the proceeds help disadvantaged youth in the Mekong Delta.

MIU MIU FOOT & SPA

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6659 3609 2B Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6680 5652 www.miumiuspa.com 10am to 11:30pm (Last booking 10:30pm) Located in the city centre, and standing for “Nyanya” (or “cry of the kitten”), Miu Miu is an elegant and serene Japanese spa offering various body, facial and foot massages, as well as several nail treatments including manicures, polish and design, and scrubs. Massages range from 60 minutes to two hours and rates are from VND65,000 to VND530,000. The spa also offers Thann and Harnn, popular beauty products in Thailand.

Q SPA & SALON

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3905 4609 An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage. Also offers hair styling and facials.

QING SPA

110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service with discounts for members.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB

3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9901 intercontinental.com/saigon Spa InterContinental offers guests the professional spa expertise and a truly sensory experience. With an extensive menu, the Spa InterContinental provides the caring touch of local therapists.

SPA TROPIC

79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

THANH SANCTUARY

Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies.

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB

22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn A luxury health spa that offers both relaxation and health care therapies to clients. Oriental remedies and therapies collected from the Traditional Medicine Institutes of Vietnam are used by the centre’s therapists.

THE SPA

Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9006; The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0290 thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4000 ext. 2235 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Different treatment rooms are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna.

XUAN SPA

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury spa with a tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages, facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

YKC SPA

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction has established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

FASHION

******

Looking good and dressing even better is big in this image-conscious metropolis. So, here are some of the fashion options available to you in Ho Chi Minh City

Accessories & Shoes 2K BAG SHOP

193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc; 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa Tel: 0977 872777 Gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this store stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

ACCESSORIZE

animals. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000.

CHARLES & KEITH

SERGIO ROSSI

18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9306 9am to 10pm With two branches in town, this airy, well-displayed Singaporean store sells women’s shoes, bags, sunglasses and accessories. Prices are acceptable for an international brand.

B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9308 Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to their attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses, and more.

DR. MARTENS

ANUPA ECO LUXE

35 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3832 3904 hoangphucvietnam.com The bright yellow signage and the street style, wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots. With Dr. Martens, it’s all about the quality of the soles.

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

IPA-NIMA

2 Thao Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 01283 221705 bandzofmonkeyz.com B.O.M provides imported, high-quality helmets from Italy and China, bean bags, authentic sunglasses from France, high-quality raincoats for kids and adults and other accessories.

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm One of Vietnam’s most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery, Ipa-Nima offers flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes. Stocks shoes, dresses and hats.

BIRKENSTOCK

JEMMA

B.O.M SHOP

B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Birkenstock sells shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany, offering similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON

1B Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm Well-known for recycled bags of various designs and colours. Other unique products includes quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery and scrap metal

174 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3926 0270 jemma.com.vn Jemma’s elegance and luxury provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam, with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece.

MAI O MAI

67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4007 mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool, funky jewellery, along with ethnic bags, hand-made silver and lacquer items. All

146AB Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Features upmarket shoes and bags made from highquality materials such as crocodile or python skin, and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads.

SKECHERS

115 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 9582 hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm One of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. SKECHERS offers new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

TDC SWISS WATCHES

20 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3929 0685 tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. Stocks highend brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

TICTAC WATCHES

72 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 3519 tictacwatch.com 9am to 10pm TicTac, growing from a family watch specialist store to an elegant black-and-gold designer watch showroom, stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Maurice Lacroix, Hirsch and Swiza. Provides repairs and battery changes.

THERESE JEWELRY

9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 3756 8am to 7.30pm A great lap of luxury. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, from a gold plain daisy brooch to cufflinks. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring.

VESPA SHOP

Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

YB DESIGNS

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2

Tel: 0907 168910 yimbaderjewelry.com Offers handmade jewellery products that are crafted from gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite. Prices are affordable, depending on gemstone and design, but usually start at VND50,000.

Clothing - Budget MARATHON

147 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Simple and accessible, Marathon offers colourful beach pants, t-shirts, flip-flops, caps and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices start at VND110,000 for a tshirt.

PAPAYA

171 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts and offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. Profits from each sale are given to two charity organizations.

ORANGE

152 Bui Vien, Q1 180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3 Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults, selling jeans, t-shirts, sandals and accessories. Prices are affordable, with t-shirts selling for VND180,000.

RAZ GARNETT

137 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, sunglasses, sneakers, authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops and Crocs sandals. Carries European-sized tshirts.

Clothing - Mid-Range BAM SKATE SHOP

174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-style-cumskate store stocks a mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps and accessories. A range of skateboards are on sale, costing between VND1.5 mil-

lion and VND2.5 million.

BOO

urban sensibility. Dresses start at VND1.5 million.

187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 134 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 0936 303632 boo.vn BOO embraces street style in clothing and décor. BOO’s brands have their own street stalls in-store, stocking clothing and shoes made in Vietnam and designed by the youth-savvy staff.

ER-COUTURE

GINKGO

FRENCH CONNECTION

54-56 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 6675 2281 ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

MAXXSTYLE

52 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: (08) 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Best-known for its unisex clothing, MaxxStyle contains a wide range of apparel in different designs, fabrics and colours. A pair of jeans starts at VND450,000 while shirts start around VND279,000.

NINOMAXX

118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 9689 ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm Set in a large, two-floor space with Renaissance-style columns, Ninomax offers both men’s and women’s clothing. As a brother to MaxxStyle, it has the similar prices and products.

Clothing Mid to Top BOSSINI

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3839 2292 9am to 10pm Hong Kong-brand retailer sells male and female casual wear of various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts. Prices range from VND900,000 for jeans and VND700,000 for shirts.

D’BLANC

89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 5164 d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by modern women and youth, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric,

43 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 2411 er-couture.com 9am to 8pm Stocks high-quality designer garments from floral dresses to tight tanks and chiffon shorts to high-waist trousers. Accessories are carried as well as larger sizes. L1-08, Vincom Center, Dong Khoi Street, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 7493 8lions.com 9am to 10pm Stocks both casual and formal wear for both men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. A pair of men’s jeans costs around VND1.8 million.

GAYA CLOTHING

Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1495 Clothing is designed and tailor-made by renowned designer Romyda Keth, and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. Gaya sells colourful, sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4004 8am to 10pm Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs. The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

IT’S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET

89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset. wordpress.com 9am to 9pm This spot (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, jewellery and accessories, and doubles as a WiFifriendly café.

LABELLA

85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Products inside this decorative Vietnamese fashion outlet include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. Offers a large selection of bags, night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

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{ WINDOW Shopping}

** Makeup Trends 2013 * *

o you’ve noticed a change on the fashion magazine covers, a seasonal shift relevant to life in our steamy city. It looks pretty good on this month’s makeup model (Purity Snob, page 92) and maybe you’re thinking of dabbling. Here are a few tips. Emerald green is the official colour of the year and looks fantastic as an eyeliner or a smoky eye shadow. To keep it from overpowering your look, highlight the inner corner, top and bottom of the eye in lighter, skintone hues. Contour the outer corners of the eyes with a contour brush and define the bottom lash with a brown shadow. Finally, soften the outer edges of the cinnamon shadow just above the crease. The subtle spring look can capture some colour on the lower rim of the eyes which adds a spark to your outfit and facial features. Having dewy skin and a glossy or subtle lip colour is always a winner and will portray a natural look — nothing is more attractive. There are compact bronzers at The Body Shop (31 Nguyen Trai, Q1) that you can rub on which have a moist feel to them, providing a more even bronzed effect on your cheek bones — I really like this one!

Five ways to encourage dewy skin: — Encourage your natural glow through maintained hydration and vitamin intake (mainly vitamins C and D) — Exfoliate your skin to keep a smooth complexion — Try a facial oil such as marula, coconut or almond oil to assist in hydrating your skin — Drink green juice. Dark, leafy greens like kale pack a whopping punch of vitamin C, a nutrient that’s proven to help skin stay supple. Parsley,

136 | Word April 2013

kale, collards and spinach also contain vitamin K, a potent anti-inflammatory that helps promote glowing skin — Exercise. Keep your body moving to maintain the skin’s natural glow while also relieving and providing an endorphin boost — natural high, girls! Alternately smudge silver, bronze or sparkly pastel over your eyelids for a disco-night look with some bold eye liner — this can change any casual outfit into an alternative contrast or make a dressy outfit even more spectacular. It did seem as though soft colours were in for the lips, but then boom! The classic red lipstick hit the catwalk — pinky reds, bold power reds and oranges. Wearing a bold red, orange or purple is great with a casual vest and skirt or shorts combination; it’ll create a relaxed but funky look. But it’s all for nothing if your makeup melts off of your face. Utilising lightweight makeups or BB creams can be a different option to cover blemishes and provide skin care as well. BB creams are a favourite of mine — there is an ‘all-in-one’ option at The Body Shop with marula oil to moisturise the skin, as well as the whitening option for all those who want to keep their precious white skin! — Jessica Shea

LEVI’S

47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3822 3281 9.30am to 10pm For those with Levi’s love, there are several of the selfbranded stores throughout the city that offer a range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices normally start at VND2 million.

LITI

40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Stocks simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, along with clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple blouse starts at VND820,000.

L’USINE

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 6674 3565 lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MAI’S

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2733 mailam.com.vn 9.30am to 9.30pm Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs, with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories and a selection of artworks.

MANGO

40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1136 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9300 shop.mango.com/vn/mango 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand provides a range of clothing along with selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million and jeans starts at VND1.4 million.

MARIPOSA

61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis - 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 Tel: (08) 3925 9993 mariposa.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, master-brand Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, with this one offering stylish and comfortable clothing for work or play.

MR & MRS SMITH

Photo by Mads Monsen

43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet sells a variety of clothing and

shoes produced in Vietnam. All designs are brand new, delivered from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices.

and women. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million.

NGAN

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel, this urban American brand carries internationalstandard clothing and a wide range of accessories and sophisticated bags, starting around VND6 million.

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 9391 24/4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: (08) 3827 7688 nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Stocks mainly women’s clothes, though men are also catered to. Prices are more top-end due to designs and high-quality fabrics. A party dress starts at VND6 million.

SONG

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 5292 asiasongdesign.com Stocks clothing by French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie with a quaint, slightly Gallic feel, made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000.

THUY NGA DESIGN

MARC JACOBS

VERSACE

M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9001 9am to 10pm Stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, products come in many colours and fabrics, with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style.

Lingerie & Swimwear

19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 3574 thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm One of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam, this luxurious shop stocks men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear, along with jewellery and accessories.

AQUAMARINE

UMBRELLA

JOCKEY

35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 6276 2730 umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Umbrella sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices vary, from VND999,000 up to VND3,499,000 on selected items with more complicated craftsmanship.

Clothing - Top-End ANUPA

Eco Luxe Anupa, 9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Houses the complete Anupa Collection along with products of Anupa Horvil’s handpicked eco designers. Features luxury leather accessories including bags for men and women, yoga bags, and belts.

CHLOÉ

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm One of the most popular international brands due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products like low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes, contemporary glasses and Sakia bags.

JUST CAVALLI

M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9005 9am to 10pm This Italian brand’s apparel varies in both design and fabric stocking for men

211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 5695 A small shop full of colourful products offering one-piece bikinis, two-pieces, monokinis and various types of beachwear. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Custom orders are available. Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3602 2676 9am to 10pm The American brand shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear. Imported clothing is slightly more expensive.

LA HA

139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands, containing a comprehensive range of swim products as well as yoga and gym outfits. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini.

SSUZI

127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and twopiece bikinis starting from VND250,000. Stocks maxim dresses from VND380,000 and beach sandals from VND110,000.

TRIUMPH

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, designed with western women in mind. Bras start at VND600,000.

{ THROUGH the Keyhole} ** Lacquerware and the River * *

Mads Monsen’s unique lacquerware catches the facade of a city that is undergoing constant change

Preserving history in bits and bytes I believe photographers have a role to play in preserving history. There are more photographers around than ever before and photography has never been more popular than it is today. 100 years in the future, Google Streetview will be a treasure trove for historians. In Saigon, changes take place faster. A 10-year snapshot will suffice — given the recent development of District 1 and Thu Thiem peninsula in District 2. Many of the things I could see 10 years ago are no longer here, or have been confined to tourist attractions such as the cyclo. As with most photographers, I also wanted to find an outlet to display my work. My commercial work is easily seen on billboards, in magazines, online and at supermarkets grazing the covers of several products. My personal work resided on my hard drive only. I had the traditional outlets available. I could produce postcards, photography books or an exhibition. I decided on a different route. Norwegian vision fused with Vietnamese craftsmanship. Photography encapsulated in lacquerware. Completely different from what is available on the market. Thus the birth of Saigon Waterways. Saigon Waterways captures the life along the river side and creates functional art. The box set contains table

placemats, and you are dining on modern history, interacting with photography in a different way. Vietnam has a long tradition in producing lacquerware, and by combining it with my photography skills I have a new medium to display my works. Thinking differently like I was encouraged to do in my time in London.

The same applies to photography. Anyone can read and learn the technique of photography. However, having an eye for photography takes much more time to train and develop. 10,000 hours and you can master your subject. Shortcuts are for computer jockeys.

The Oddball from Norway

Mads Monsen underwent an apprenticeship with a commercial photography studio before graduating from Central Saint Martin’s with a degree in graphic design. A resident of Vietnam since 2000, he practises both commercial photography and graphic design. Saigon Waterways is one of many lacquer sets that Mads has developed — more can be viewed and purchased online at studiomadsmonsen.com/products, or you can contact Mads directly on info@studiomadsmonsen.com for further information.

Oddball. I learned the positive side to the word when I enrolled at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art & Design in London. It was the word the course director gave my course teacher as a description of me when I joined them mid-term. Normally, you transfer at the end of the year, however, I was the exception to the rule, the Oddball. On top of that, I knew only photography and this was a graphic design course and that was okay, because I was thinking differently from the others. That’s the reason I was accepted mid-term. Saint Martin’s is different from most schools. When most students are worried about mastering computer skills and producing eye candy, students at Saint Martin’s soon get to worry about concepts and ideas. Anyone can follow instructions once given. Coming up with the instructions in the first place is completely different.

About

April 2013 Word | 137

INTERIORS

Give your home that look you’ve always dreamed of. Furniture and repro art is not just manufactured in Vietnam for export. Apparently you can even buy bicycles made from bamboo here. Oops, no. Those beauties are for export only.

Arts APRICOT GALLERY

50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

GALLERY

244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

GALERIE QUYNH CACTUS GALLERY

17/12 Nguyen Huy Tuong, P6, Binh Thanh. Tel: 0904 959053 www.cactusartgallery.com Located near to the Fine Art University, Cactus Gallery was founded in 2011 by artist Phuong Quoc Tri with a desire to provide the art space to the world in general and Viet Nam in particular, both on a personal level and on a united one. Linking talented artists together for daily art events such as exhibitions, artist talks and art projects the gallery aims to erase the boundaries between Vietnamese and International artists as well as any art lovers, curators, collectors and art dealers. Cactus Gallery primarily focuses on discovering, supporting and developing young talent.

DOGMA

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propagandaprinted tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamese-themed stereotypes available elsewhere in town. Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHU Y

257 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contem-

porary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a four-floor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1

Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists. Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG

234 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and wellorganised space offers a comprehensive range of products. An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

Crafts EM EM

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-madeclothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

Want to be in touch with what’s happening in this city? Check us out online at

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MEKONG CREATIONS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: (08) 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the NGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

NGUYEN FRERES

2 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house. Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

83 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA

209 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above.

wordhcmc.com

Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

MEKONG QUILTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: (08) 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

Furniture AUSTIN HOME

20 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE

Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: (08) 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs. Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA

The Crescent Parcel CR107/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: (08) 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by well-known brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT

68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: (08) 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks. Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS

4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: (08) 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interiorfurnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

CHI LAI

53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: (08) 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality de-

signs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

CLIC CLAC SOFA

327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: (08) 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC

11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com. vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-to-order furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give

clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery. Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

GAYA

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

GOMO

7/308 Highway 13, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 376 5115 www.gomo.com.vn Typical of the large, slightly out-of-town stores found in Europe, North America and Australia that focus on all things for the home, Gomo represents the arrival of a new style of homewares shop in Vietnam.

HAFELE SHOWROOM

46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from

Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

IRRESISTIBLE

Light and Living Store 37 Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3521 2828 Open 9am to 8pm Delivering superior quality interior decorative products at an affordable price, Irresistible's integrated selections create a synergy which offer home furnishing solutions for anything from the bedroom through to the living room and the study. For more information check out their website - www.ptrio.co.th.

LIVING & GIVING

59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors. Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

THE LOST ART

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

NHA XINH

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: (08) 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consulta-

tion service.

OUTDOOR LIVING

Tel: (09) 0770 9044 outdoorlifestyle.com.vn Vietnam has a climate that is perfect for spending time outdoors, why not make the most of it? Outdoor Lifestyle Products offers a range of products designed and developed to complement the best in BBQs.

REMIX DECO

distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand. Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials. From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs. Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN

LIGHT HOUSE

152 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: (08) 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailormade environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

Kitchenware CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1

It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

Lighting AO DONG

Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials. Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE

98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 4634 mosaiquedecoration.com This eye-popping lime greenpainted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at

UNITY

12 Dang Tran Con, Q1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection— to give your home a sense of Unity.

VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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* ELECTRONICS Nope, Ho Chi Minh City is not as cheap as Hong Kong or Bangkok when it comes to those camera and computer purchases we are all obsessed with these days. But it’s not far off. Here’s a lowdown on where stuff is available

Cameras CAMERA STREET

Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH

28 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS

Tel: 0903 035 271 silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small. The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

MAT RONG VANG

Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 6294 5448 goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions.

A world leader in real time monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE

11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony. They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

Computers COMPUTER STREETS

Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

CARTRIDGE WORLD

81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0999 cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of well-known brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER

236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 7300 6666 elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks,

servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million. Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG

Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 8999 hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customerservice.

LONG BINH COMPUTER

50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 0699 longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers. Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU

125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 8777 vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM

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42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN

428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: (08) 3818 1188 tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THUAN MY CO.

227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 9164 thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

Mobile Phones GIA KIEN

352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3868 3733 giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than

wordhcmc.com

other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS

The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE

382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3526 5838 thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG

182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292 thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A

328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3863 3333 vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

ELECTRONICS MARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson. In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET

590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

GIA THANH

975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: (08) 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE

133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm

NGUYEN KIM

63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm

THIEN HOA

277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: (08) 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa. vn 8am to 10pm

GROCERIES *

From catering services through to the growing number of bakeries - and we’re not talking Tous Les Jours. Here are places to stock up on wine, liquor, imported cheeses and freshly baked bread

Bakeries CAKEWALK

84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: (08) 6295 9087 cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS

117 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS

33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING

30 Lam Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

NHU LAN

64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

SIMRANS

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

SESAME BAKERY

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3518 0897 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER

39 Thao Dien, Q2 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

Catering AU PARC CATERING

Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western–fusion French food. French Chef Stephane

Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

LE REUNION DES MARMITES

Tel: 6274 0647 lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more. Visit website for full menu.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

41 Vo Truong Toan, D.2, HCMC Tel: (08) 3898 9286 info@saigoncateringco.com saigoncateringco.com With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals. Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a stand-up cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com

SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

but some locally–sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

Groceries

32 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

ANNAM MARKET

GOURMET

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS

45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8126 aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: (08) 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection,

LE COCHON D’OR

PHUONG HA

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA

60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers. Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

VEGGY’S

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

Liquor & Wine ANNAM SHOP

GOURMET

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9332 annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

BACCHUS CORNER

158D Pasteur, Q1 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable pric-

es. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

74E Hai Ba Trung,Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE

6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: (08) 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

RED APRON

22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

THE WAREHOUSE

178 Pasteur, Q Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VINIFERA

15C7 Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP

74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

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GEN.V

Got kids? Looking for that perfect school for your children? Want to give them involved in some extra-curricular activities? Search no further. Here are some options for you

Baby Equipment BABY

66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: (08) 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

BABYLAND (BAO MAU) Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Offers first-rate (if pricey) equipment ranging from strollers to sterilizers to parenting books.

BABYMART

325 Truong Vinh Ky, Tan Phu babymart.vn Carries an expansive selection of baby equipment in its stores and online. Offers fast delivery for online purchases.

BABYTOY

359/51 Le Van Sy, Q3 www.babytoysaigon.com Here you can find baby clothes, accessories, and toys imported from the US.

BELLI BLOSSOM

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6615 4th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7574 belliblossom.com.vn Stocks imported brands of maternity wear and nursing accessories, infant clothes, baby utensils, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and more.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Q1; Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi

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Q1; Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton Q1 Sells clothing for kids from newborn to toddlers, as well as bedding, equipment, accessories and organic jarred baby food.

MAMAN BEBE

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8724 mamanbebe.com.vn Carries strollers, car seats, baby utensils, clothing, and accessories. Most products are made by the Japanese company Combi.

ME OI

1B Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital, this shop sells reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

MOM & BABY

230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 1611; 40 Ton That Tung Q1; 101-103 Khanh Hoi, Q4; 141D Phan Dang Luu; 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nuan, Q7 The closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

RAINBOW FOR KIDS

105C Truong Dinh Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 4930 Offers a variety of supplies, utensils, and healthcare products for both expectant mothers and infants.

Classes & Sports DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES

KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: 0908 460267 www.kidsclubsaigon.com An early childhood centre offering early learning programmes for children aged 18 months to five, including toddler playgroups, preschool classes and enrichment activities. Also has after-school activities for kids aged four to eight.

Tel: 0913 877884 With 30 years experience teaching youngsters, Mr Anh Vu Phi offers private tutoring in Vietnamese and English at reasonable rates. After a stint in Seville, Spain, he now offers classes in flamenco.

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

MONTESSORI SCHOOL

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com French painter offers daytime and evening courses for children and adults, teaching beginners about different mediums and techniques and helping artists of all skill levels unlock their creativity.

INSPIRATO CENTER

MUSIC

4-6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729846 Private music lessons in piano and violin from beginner level up to Grade 8 and beyond. Also runs a chamber music club with regular concerts and ensemble lessons for strings and woodwind.

82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels.

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Geneva Conservatory graduate Steffen Christophe teaches an introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard and voice.

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES

Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail. com Suitable for kids of all ages, these piano lessons range from basic to advanced.

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL

Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years, run by Elizabeth Hollins.

SAIGON MOVEMENT

Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail. com Aiming to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports activities, Saigon Movement offers a variety

of classes in movement development for ages two to 11. Contact Abbie Klein.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com This 15-week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centre in Vietnam, offers scuba diving adventures in a swimming pool for eight to nine year olds.

SAIGON PONY CLUB

42 Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn riding techniques from three, part–time teachers.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

WAT E R C O L O U R WORKSHOPS WITH LINDSAY ERDMAN

Tel: 0932 102378 www.lindsayerdman.net Canadian watercolour artist, Lindsay Erdman hosts Saturday afternoon workshops for painters of all levels. Work with still life, live models and flora while learning or refining a variety of watercolour techniques. Workshops held on a beautiful terrace in district 10. Weeklong workshops are also available.

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO

BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0903 918149 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. An additional fee for non– members applies.

VINSPACE

6 Le Van Mien, Q2 Tel: 0907 729846 vin-space.com Provides kids classes in anything from mixed art, oil painting, crafts and still life drawing through to jewellery making and fashion design.

Clothing 123 BABY CLOTHING

226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000 per item. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

BABY GAP

Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; Crescent Mall 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Offers everything you would find at a Baby Gap overseas, including socks and shoes for kids ages one to five, although at a higher price.

CHILDREN’S PLANET

90 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 childrenplanet.com.vn Provides boys and girls’ clothing from ages five to 14 with clothes imported from Singapore.

DEBENHAMS

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 A range of apparel for children from newborns to pre-teens with clothing imported from the UK.

LITTLE ANH-EM

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

NINH KHUONG

44 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 7456; 83 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 220 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 3224; 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 9183 ninhkhuong.vn Offers 100 percent cotton

hand-embroidered apparel for children ages one to 14.

Education

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 smallisb.com Provides little princes and princesses with an exclusive selection of brandname clothing, accessories and creative toys in their playfully designed, childfriendly shop.

THANH THUY

93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4893 Offers primarily cotton clothes for all ages at reasonable prices. Their friendly, English–speaking staff is always on hand to help.

TUTI BELLA

75 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0527; 49 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 7348; 72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9088 tutibella.com.vn This Los Angeles establishment selling fashion and accessories to kids from one to 12 years old now has a number of branches in Ho Chi Minh City.

Children's Books FAHASA

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odds and ends.

PHUONG NAM

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

NHA SACH ME VA CON

(Mum and Baby Bookstore) 46 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8386 nsmevacon.com.vn Supplies a variety of books, paintings, pictures, CDs, VCDs and DVDs, stationery and gift accessories for mums, dads, children and educators.

2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Serving students from 32 nations, ages two to 18, ABC delivers a curriculum wholly based on UK standards, culminating in IGCSE’s and A levels (awarded upon graduation by Cambridge University examinations board).

tional student body and is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISSEA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS)

Xi Early Childhood Centre 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Early Childhood & Primary School, Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Middle & Senior School, East-West Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com In addition to academic excellence, exceptional facilities and a wide range of extra-curricular activities, AIS offers the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies to its grade 12 students (exclusive in Ho Chi Minh City). Follows the MYP and PYP syllabus.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS)

246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British-style curriculum for an interna-

15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 3302 compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education offers a range of courses designed to meet academic, corporate, and professional goals. Offers nanny and teacher placements as well as career counselling.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

East-West Highway, An Phu, Q2 Tel: (08) 3747 1234 acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG boasts comprehensive education programmes from kindergarten to high school, a range of extracurricular activities, and impressive facilities.

COMPASS EDUCATION

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers co-educational classes from Kindergarten to grade 12 for local and foreign students. Talented, certified teachers implement the awarded Ontario curriculum to create a student-centered learning environment. Focuses on academic achievement, character education and global thinking with a commitment to the arts and languages (Vietnamese and French). Students graduate with the Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide.

CITYSMART

Cu Xa Do Thanh, 7, Duong So. 2, Q3 Tel: (08) 3832 8488; Flemington Tower, 2nd Floor, 182 Le Dai Hanh, Q11, Tel: (08) 3962 1218 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children up to five years old for over 30 years, making them a leader in early childhood development programmes.

CANADIAN I N T E R N AT I O N A L SCHOOL

13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: (08) 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam

serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a studentcentred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

I N T E R N AT I O N A L SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC)

28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc.com The only fully authorized IB World School in Ho Chi Minh City, ISHCMC has been awarding graduates with an IB Diploma and sending them off to high-profile overseas universities since 1999.

I N T E R N AT I O N A L SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP)

92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 2222 7799 issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American-standard curriculum, as well as unique extra-curriculars like golf and Mandarin Language classes. A brand new, state-of-the-art campus caters to students from nursery through to grade 5.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL – GIS

730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 7300 7257 www.giss.vn The German International School offers a unique bi-lingual German-English programme for students, from a variety of nationalities, from 2 to 16 years old. Its curriculum is based on the internationally recognised Primary Years Programmes (PYP), Middle Years Programme (MYP) and IB Diploma Programme of the International Baccalaureate (IB) system.

Ground Floor, Crescent Residence 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0907 099480 kindermusik.edu.vn Kindermusik is the world’s premier music, movement and English language programme for children from birth to age 7. Each weekly lesson promotes early literacy and English language acquisition, social skills and more.

LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten shares a curriculum with its sister school in the US. Its facilities and learning environment remain un-

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surpassed by any other kindergarten in Vietnam.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON (RISS)

74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08) 3773 3171 rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides students from over 25 nations with a British / international education. Students ages two to 18 enjoy classes taught by qualified native English speakers at their state–of– the–art campus.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0938 371760 sic.edu.vn Overseen by the Curriculum Council of Western Australia, SIC’s program for years 10 to 12 provides graduating students with the Australian Certificate of

Education (WACE), allowing direct entry to all Australian universities.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE

15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON SOUTH I N T E R N AT I O N A L SCHOOL (SSIS)

Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 3222 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Pri-

mary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS

1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM

177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2223 theamericanschool.edu.vn An independent and private university preparatory school with an individualised programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through to Grade 12.

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 3933 3655 vas.edu.vn One of the leading schools in Vietnam, VAS provides

programmes from kindergarten to secondary school. In line with their mission to encourage a global mindset in new generations, VAS integrates international educational methods.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS)

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168; R4-28 (Hung Phuoc 2), Le Van Them, Q7, Tel: (08) 3602 6694 vlstudies.com VLS has built a reputation over 18 years by offering courses tailored to all abilities. Classes are located either at VLS’s high quality facilities, or at the learner’s office/ home.

Entertainment BINH QUOI BOTANICAL GARDENS

1147 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3556 6020 binhquoiresort.com.vn Features a landscaped park, weekend buffets, and children’s activities and entertainment. Reachable by boat from District 1.

DAM SEN PARK

3 Hoa Binh, Q11, Tel: (08) 3963 4963 damsenpark.vn Popular theme park / wa-

ter park provides fun for the whole family at a low price.

DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 7750 Features a fourth–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth– oriented eating options such as KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA

35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7614 Parkson Plaza has a large selection of arcade games along with a bowling alley and a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

SAIGON ZOO

2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 3728 A wide variety of animals, well maintained facilities, peaceful atmosphere, and fun activities for kids including bumper cars and playgrounds.

SUOI TIEN AMUSEMENT PARK

120 AH 1, Tan Phu, Q9 Tel: (08) 3896 0260 Offers all of the expected amusement park attractions in a spectacular setting that includes a manmade beach, a dinosaur garden and a zoo.

Helping kids reach new heights.

X-ROCK CLIMBING

74 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6210 9192; 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 2210 9192 xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre, purpose–built mountain in District 3, with an additional location in District 2.

Kids' Parties A2

196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON

Tel: 0909 052502 dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn Specializing in first through

SSIS: join the climb. • Not for profit • 850+ students from 35+ countries, 20% nationality caps • 70% of our teachers have advanced degrees, 65% have ten+ years teaching experience • Large, park-like campus • New state of the art high school facilities • 3 libraries, 2 gymnasiums, 25m swimming pool and visual & performing arts rooms • 1:1 laptop/netbook HS/MS program • IB diploma program / AP coursework and diploma option • Co-curricular trips within SE Asia • Buses to Districts 1, 2, 3

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

78 Nguyen Duc Canh Street, Tan Phong Ward, District 7, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: (84-8) 5 413 0901 - F: (84-8) 5 413 0902 - E: info@ssis.edu.vn - W: www.ssis.edu.vn

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fifth birthday parties, Gymboree will take care of everything, including venue, invitations, party favours and more. Offers themes such as Princess Palace and Dinosaur Adventures.

THE BALLOON MAN

100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Although mainly focused on grown–up events, this company does an excellent job catering for kids’ parties.

Medical AMERICAN EYE CENTER

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6758 americaneyecentervn.com An American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 15 years of experience in the US treats vision prob-

lems such as hyperopia, astigmatism, focusing problems, myopia, strabismus and lazy eyes.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Three paediatricians practice their speciality at this well–equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped pediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8520 internationalsos.com Open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, the internationally experienced pediatric team at this clinic will meet your family's preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs.

House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL

2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Modern, well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 victoriavn.com Committed to pediatrics, this clinic provides services including general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordhcmc.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

April 2013 Word | 145

{ C R A Z Y Kids} ** The Chaos Universe of Kids’ World * *

Photo by Kyle Phanroy

s I walk into District 2’s The Gioi Tre Tho Bee Bee, I see the type of place I’d expected to be seeing — a warehouse-like playland, with games on one side and playground equipment on the other, an ice cream counter in the back and a bored parents’ corner right next to the gift shop. The hinted-at otherworldliness of the castle turret visible from the entrance disappears under the glare of fluorescent lights. The kids pivot on bouncy footings as their parents snap pictures. We’re there on a Saturday afternoon with around 15 kids and attendant adults. A six-year-old pushes a shopping cart full of plastic balls. Some staff members fight over a plush blue wizard hat. A two-year-old swats at the parading mechanical fish of one machine with the fake hammer of the next, dropping it and falling down in the process. A Vietnamese man of about 30 sits

146 | Word April 2013

at a low table, watercolouring a paint-bynumber canvas of a pastoral scene, a shopbought set titled My future is not a dream. Beside it is a flimsy canvas one-tenth the size of an Angry Bird, painted by his son. Happy screams fill the air. It’s a dream, acted out by its customers.

Deja Vu Paul, father of five-year-old Minh, says, “I guess there’s a round you do,” in talking about kiddie distracters like Snap Café, Joymax, this place. “There’s not too much around.” Paul is in the parents’ corner as Minh pulls two or three tickets at a time out of the skill machines. I ask Minh his favourite game and he takes me to the claw machines, where he’d previously won a strange looking pig-elf and a purple bunny. Bill, 11, walks up and asks me for a coin for the games. I brush him off and

he follows me into the gift shop, where he asks me to buy him a scooter. We finally reach an accord on the seesaw, photographer Kyle and me on the inside, Bill and his sister on the torqued outer seats. We earn their trust so much that Bill decides to ask Kyle’s help belaying — as his sister is three metres up the six-metre climbing wall. Later on, Kyle and I settle down for an ice cream in the shadow of a bouncy castle, and Bill launches an attack. He pelts us with plastic balls, and we good-naturedly flick them back. But he gets some support, and before long we’re holding our arms up as a six-year-old girl screams, “Do you surrender?” We walk towards the exit as the parents look at us kindly, without surprise. They’ve been through this before. — Ed Weinberg The Gioi Tre Tho Bee Bee is at 21 Tran Nao, Q2

TRAVEL

People travel thousands of miles to get a whiff of exotic Vietnam. From travel agencies though to resorts, here are a few suggestions on where to stay and how to get there in and around Vietnam

AIRLINES AIR ASIA

www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE

130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG

1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES

194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC

5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

CHINA AIRLINES

Travel Agencies ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS

7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in the Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining, and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia.

ASIANATRAVEL MATE CO. LTD

113C Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6678 92-94-96 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 0615 asianatravelmate.com A tourist information company offering customized itineraries, tour packages, hotel and cruise reservations throughout Asia. Daily tours are available in Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, and three deluxe cruises in Ha Long Bay.

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL

3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 5523 azasiatravel.com AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level in Asia.

JETSTAR PACIFIC

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR

37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINES

www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES

93 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES

Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS

29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS

www.tigerairways.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES

27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

Ho Chi Minh Intl Airport, Tel: (08) 3930 1118 budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best– known car rental companies.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY

81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

COME AND GO VIETNAM

195/14, D1, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 3281 comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, high–quality, innovative custom tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

DALAT EASY RIDER

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat dalat-easyrider.com

Motorbike tours from over 70 guides, all speaking English. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands, Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Note: insurance is not included.

EXOTISSIMO

64 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2911 SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2761, Ext 113 41 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4111, Ext 171 exotissimo.com An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC

60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0939 402872 flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff fluent in English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese.

FLY VIETNAM

flyvietnam.com They provide flight information, pricing, availability and booking for domestic and international travel, in addition to railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals, travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

KIM TRAVEL

270 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 5552 kimtravel.com One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel: 0904

193308 intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992. They offer daily tours, short getaways, and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

BIKE RENTALS

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation.

ONE WORLD TRADING SERVICE TOURISM CO.

CHI’S CAFÉ

28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 6675 2620 oneworldvn.com A local inbound tour operator specializing in boutique tours around Vietnam. They provide economy, luxury, packages and tailor-made tours, which include the flexibility for customers to explore at their own pace.

40/27 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

TERRAVERDE

Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pickup.

12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

TU TRAVEL

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Services include trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc, Phnom Penh, Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure.com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

Want to be in touch with what’s happening in this city? Check us out online at

NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS

SAIGON MOTORBIKE

203 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat.

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE

25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

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{ T R A V E L Notes} By Mark Bowyer

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Mark Bowyer is publisher of the Vietnam and Cambodia travel guide — rustycompass.com. You can contact him on mark@ rustycompass.com

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ingapore isn’t known as a heaving hub of live rock ‘n roll, but the pristine city is taking big steps forward each year with the Rock ‘n Roots music festival, hosted for the fourth time over two nights in March. This year’s lineup included some of music’s biggest names. Led Zeppelin front man Robert Plant put in an inspired performance of old and new tunes, looking fully reconciled with every one of his 65 years. His voice held up well despite some technical glitches at the start of the set. Plant charmed the crowd with his polished English banter between songs. One of the bad men of rock ‘n roll proved himself well reformed and showed no sign of musical fatigue. At 71, Paul Simon was the elder statesman of the lineup. His eight-piece band was assembled more for his career’s African and reggae-infused passages than his early years as a balladeer. That Simon’s set included only a handful of tunes from his most popular period playing alongside Art Garfunkel almost 50 years ago is testimony to his musical depth and innovation. Sounds of Silence was the only one of his three number one US hits to make the cut. He had the crowd of mainly middle-aged expats screaming for more, and he obliged with generous encores. Reggae pioneer Jimmy Cliff, Tedeschi Trucks Band — featuring slide guitar virtuoso Derek Trucks — and raspy blues balladeer Bonnie Raitt were also in the lineup. All proving that as a regional destination for musical entertainment, Singapore is difficult to surpass.

** Singapore Rocks! * *

Dalat ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555888 anamandara-resort.com 17 French colonial villas reside atop the slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Complete with a personal butler, in-villa dining, and a holistic spa, Ana Mandra Villas is where luxury meets tranquility.

BLUE MOON HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 04 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat, Tel: 063 357 8888 bluemoonhotel.com.vn This châteauesque resort is found in the heart of Dalat. Pamper at the beauty salon, indulge at the BBQ garden, or take in the view from the heated swimming pool.

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 3827 999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Free Wi-Fi, private car airport pickup, a coffee shop, and 10% discounted promotions at the nearby V Café; this charming hotel offers cost effective peace and quite.

DALAT PALACE

$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat, Tel: 063 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn The style of the 1920s, the backdrop of the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain, and a piano bar — these are the elements through which Dalat’s top hotel retains its classic charms.

DREAMS HOTEL

$ 151 and 164b Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 dreamshoteldalat.com An all you can eat breakfast buffet, jacuzzis, saunas, and friendly service. This is one of the budget deals in town.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat, Tel: 063 355 0979 lasapinette.com This four-star apart’hotel exudes the French art nouveau style. Boasting a modern commercial centre, retail, food and beverage outlets, La Sapinette is the palace to call home.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: 063 382 2663 Centrally located, this quaint stop offers affordable accommodations, in

a basic style. Goes bus-todoor through the Sinh Café people.

Hanoi CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

$$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: 04 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

FRASER SUITES

$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho, Tel: 04 37198877 hanoi.frasershospitality.com Fully serviced, fully furnished, and strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is a gold–standard bearer of expat living.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: 0439 286969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a

replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

$ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0438 285372 hanoibackpackershostel.com Two locations in Hanoi; complete with bunk beds, in same or mixed sexed dorms, pool tables, and darts. This is the place to meet international travelers.

HANOI HILTON

$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0439 330500 hilton.com Adjacent to the prestigious Opera House, this five–star landmark lives up to its family name. Colonial architecture, an elegant and spacious interior, is further complemented by, the spacious courtyard pool.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 428387 hongngochotel.com With four locations in the Old Quarter, and close proximity to Hoan Kiem Lake, this is a good, central, no-frills chain. Amenities include compact rooms, friendly staff and free Wi–Fi.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0439 381048 josephshotel.com Aside the immaculate St. Joseph’s Cathedral, and boasting exceptional Breakfast Pho, comfort is found at Joseph’s. One of the best boutique deals in town.

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: 0437 349988 marigoldhotelhanoi.com The newly-built Marigold Hotel combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with Oriental luxury . Online promotions, and a nightly live Irish pub on the top floor.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0439 380999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

PULLMAN HOTEL DESTINATION $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0437 330808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary

lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SOFITEL METROPOLE

$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0438 266919 sofitel.com The finest hotel from the French colonial period restored to modern Hanoi. This elegant oasis of charm is complimented with impeccable service, luxurious facilities and an ambience of a bygone era.

Around Hanoi BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: 0313 880888 pearlriverhotel.vn This four-star resort offers in room bathrobe, slippers, digital safety box, free Wi-Fi, satellite TV, 24hour room service. A resort complete with a pool, deluxe spa, fitness centre, and VIP massage room.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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{ TRAVEL Promos } European Retreat

Promotions of the Month

Holidays Made Easier

Mercure Danang

Looking for an escape from the city heat? Retreat for cheap with Air France and KLM’s sunshine deals on round trip getaways to Europe. Destination deals include Paris from VND20 million, Marseille from VND22 million and Rome from VND22.75 milliom. Take advantage of this offer by booking before Apr. 7 for departures between Jul. 1 to Sep. 30, departing from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.

Leading low-cost carrier VietJetAir is announcing its brand new route from Hanoi to Nha Trang just in time for summer. Flight crew set the holiday mood with vacation beach attire on board, jump-starting passengers’ escapes to Vietnam’s leading holiday destinations. VietJetAir customers will go from stuffy city streets to pristine beaches in a mere two hours, ready to enjoy Nha Trang’s charm.

Find complete information on destinations and deals at airfrance.com. vn, on the Best Offers page

vietjetair.com

On Apr. 29 to Apr. 30 at the Mercure Danang there will be fireworks and an international BBQ-style buffet for only VND800,000 per person, inclusive of food, one drink and access to our balcony to watch Danang’s international fireworks competition. The hotel’s spring package at Karma Spa will spoil guests with a full body massage followed by a scalp and foot massage to restore the energy of your body and soul. Only VND1.09 million net per person for 120 minutes. The offer is valid until May 1.

Edensee Resort

Con Dao, an untouched and breathtakingly beautiful archipelago only 45 minutes from Ho Chi Minh City by air, is a perfect getaway destination for any city-goer needing a great escape. During the month of April, the deal gets more alluring at Six Senses, which lies along 1.6 km of sandy beach, surrounded by picturesque, mountainous landscapes and stunning turquoise waters. The staff will provide a hospitable greeting with a complimentary welcome drink. Let your worries melt with a gratuitous ritual bath, and wake up refreshed with an a la carte breakfast — starting at VND5.9 million++ per night.

Perched atop a serene lake and surrounded by stunning Dalat landscape, the idyllic Edensee Resort is offering the perfect getaway for the Liberation holiday weekend. Escape the hustle and bustle of the daily grind with the promise of luxurious overnight accommodation and delectable dining options, all while enjoying the natural charm and modern sophistication of luxury at its best. Three day/two night packages at VND2.6million++ are inclusive of dinners and a uniquely European afternoon tea in the lobby every afternoon. For more information on these packages, available Apr. 27 to May 2, visit dalatedensee.com

Great Escape to Six Senses at Con Dao

sixsenses.com

Summer in Utopia

Legendary Saigon Riverfront Getaway

MGallery La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc offers guests a descent into bliss this summer with special Summer Chill deals. Resort guests staying between May 1 and Sep. 30 will enjoy rooms from VND2.5 million++ per night, complimentary breakfast for two, a 10 percent discount at resort dining locations and a 10 percent discount on luxurious spa experiences. All will enjoy the comforts of round-trip airport transfer, welcome drinks and fruit platters upon arrival, personal check-in at the resorts bar and much more.

Running until Apr. 21, Saigon’s five-star, riverfront international hotel, Legend Hotel Saigon, is once again offering Vietnamese and expats residing in Vietnam a Weekend Getaway Package. Choose to stay on Friday, Saturday, Sunday or any public holiday and for VND2,013,000++ per night, Legend will start the giving when you check in with a welcome drink and a fruit basket in the room, and 10 percent off food and drinks. Casually wake up with a buffet breakfast for two at the Atrium Café, and stroll out when ready with a 3pm checkout time.

laverandaresorts.com

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mercure-danang.com

Kazakhstan links up with HCMC Air Astana officially launched its air route linking the city of Almaty in Kazakhstan and Ho Chi Minh City last month with weekly flights on Wednesdays and Fridays, with six business class and 150 economy class seats. Flights departing from Almaty to Ho Chi Minh City via the Thai capital Bangkok will take nine hours. Total flight time is only seven hours for passengers departing from Ho Chi Minh City to Almaty. airastana.com

Spa Indulgence Goes Corporate Perched above city streets, luxury locale Xuan Spa at Park Hyatt Saigon extends its indulgences for its corporate clientele, who can enjoy spa treatments at 20 percent off and food and beverage discounts of 10 percent. With the offer available for up to five individuals per company, employees can seek refuge at the end of a busy working day. Enjoy luxurious spa treatments that incorporate the healing nature of water to hydrate and renew the body and senses. xuanspa.com

tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: 0303 848006 cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and primate centre with accommodations is stilt houses or detached bungalows. Both are available at the park headquarters, the park centre and on the road between the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 385622 etoile-des-mers.com 10 houses, surrounded by rice fields, lakes, and hills, this eco–village caters to those who wish commune with nature.

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com A resort, ecolodge, and school, located on the banks of Thac Ba Lake. This bamboo-constructed paradise offers lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours, hiking, and volunteer opportunities.

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: 2183 868959 maichaulodge.com Rock climbing, kayaking, cycling, and a romance in nature, the Buffalo Toursowned lodge is set in a lush valley, this is home to indigenous Vietnamese.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 848108 novotelhalong.com.vn This beachfront property is close to local markets. Fine dining, a professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, and a pool overlooking the limestone bay.

HCMC - International CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 0838 234999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LEGEND HOTEL

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0838 233333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 0838 222999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0838 228888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

EQUATORIAL

PARK HYATT

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 0838 397777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an onsite casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: 0839 257777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 0835 209999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar,

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 0838 241234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italian-themed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0838 251417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

REX HOTEL

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 0838 292185 rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now fivestar property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

SHERATON

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 0838 272828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 0838 241555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

THE AU CO, BHAYA CRUISES

$$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 aucocruises.com The Au Co offers a continuous three-day voyage in the Gulf of Tonkin. The firstclass twin vessels feature: 32 luxury cabins, private balconies, nature-inspired cuisine, spa treatments, and a jacuzzi.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: 0838 336688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - Deluxe CONTINENTAL

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 0838 299201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice

to highlight Vietnamese culture .

swimming pool, and the Sawasdee Health Club.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

SABENA HOTEL

$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 0838 295517 majesticsaigon.com.vn Since 1925 this vintage hotel encompasses the beauty that is Vietnam. Overlooking the Saigon River, its unique atmosphere makes it that much more majestic.

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 656/52 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, Tel: 0838 460263 mamaison.vn The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. The Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in-house guests.

NORFOLK HOTEL

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0838 295368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 0838 224866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

RAMANA HOTEL

$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 0838 439999 ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites while offering: a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor

$$$ 24 Noi Khu Hung, Gia 4, PMH, Q7 , Tel: 0854 161000 sabena.vn On a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the Sabena is equipped with the latest in–room technology. For the international businessperson, this is a good choice away from downtown Saigon.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0839 998888, starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

HCMC - Mid-Range ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 0838 225914 kimdohotel.com Perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the brightly-lit exterior guarantees that you’ll never be lost at night. Enjoy executive jacuzzis and use online booking for discounted promotions.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 0838 227926 lanlanhotel.com.vn Centrally located near the Ben Thanh Market, the two hotels are juxtaposed on opposite sides of Thu Khoa Huan. Lan Lan 1 and 2 offer a homely feel at affordable prices.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0837 442222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and

spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0862 569966 alcovehotel.com.vn Architectural elegance, and timeless style, this literal library themed inn is nestled in a charming and quiet neighborhood. Their fine selection of literature waits to be read, atop the rooftop terrace.

HCMC - Budget CALIFORNIA GUEST HOUSE

$ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 Always buzzing with activity, the California Guest House offers a communal kitchen, and free laundry. Book early, as this guesthouse is highly popular and has limited numbers vacancies.

CAM LY HOTEL AND APARTMENT

$ 656 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 With 24-hour security, cable television and ADSL Internet access, this clean and comfortable hotel offers peace of mind and affordable studio apartments.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0839 206992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

DUNA HOTEL

$ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: 0838 373699 dunahotel.com With its communal kitchen and a TV room, a stay here

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will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0838 361915 honghoavn.com It’s always hard to get a

ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES

Soc Son Tel: 0164 387 6594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE

Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 061 366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JUNGLE BEACH

Nha Trang Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH

Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY

Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 077 398 1693 w w w. m a n g o b a y phuquoc.com

MEKONG LODGE

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

MIA NHA TRANG

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821633 www.mianhatrang.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT

Ha Giang Tel: 0219 3833 3565 www.panhou-village. com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY

Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked-away little spot is on a par with anything else in the area — attractive, comfortable, friendly and more.

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn Free breakfast, free computer usage, motorbike rental, and discounts for long term stay, the Sinh Huong Hotel is one of the few guesthouses to accept credit cards.

Hoi An & Danang

Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

INTERCONTINENTAL DANANG SUN PENINSULA RESORT

$$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang , Tel: 8884 246835 intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed hotel is nestled within one the region’s most exquisite locations.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: 5103 862231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/ Hoi An’s best kept secret is a family–run hotel with a charming colonial air located between the town and the beach, complete with a pool garden and air–conditioned rooms.

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: 5103 545105 domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai houses a dozen modern villas with private gardens. There are endless beaches and an abundance of fresh seafood.

DANANG BEACH RESORT

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG

CUA DAI

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: 5113 961800 danangbeachresort.com.vn 20 minutes from Danang airport, this resort is comprised of six villas, a 33–floor twin tower, three five–star hotels, a convention / commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang, Tel: 5113 847888 furamavietnam.com This venue has stunning beachside location. The smallest room measures 40 square meters — with a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

HUY HOANG 1

$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 5113 936741 huyhoang1-hotel.com A mere 0.025km from the city centre, in addition to simple and comfortable rooms. Truly an excellent base for exploring the old town.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: 5113 981234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the

$$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: 5113 958888 lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, this exquisite resort has been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion.

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: 5103 914555 life-resorts.com This award–winning resort is located close to the bustling Old Town. With an emphasis on wellness and pampering, its spa combines traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: 5113 797777 mercure-danang.com Located on Green Island, in the heart of Da Nang city, the Mercure Danang offers modern style reflecting local Vietnamese culture. All day dining is offered at their brasserie and Chinese restaurant.

THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: 5103 940000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own

Want to be in touch with what’s happening in this city? Check us out online at

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espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT AND SPA

Cua Dai Beach, Tel: 5103 927040 victoriahotels.asia This charming resort replicates a traditional fishing village, ponds, and village houses, all upon a private beach. Eat at the Annam Asian restaurant or relax with Thai or Swedish massage.

Hue & Quang Binh ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: 0543 695800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: 0543 695888 banyantree.com/en/lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 0543 826567 hanoibackpackershostel. com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa complete with bunk beds, in same or mixedsexed dorms, pool tables, and darts. This is the place to meet international travelers.

IMPERIAL HUE

$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 0543 882222 imperial-hotel.com.vn The Forbidden City meets modern luxury. This high– rise hotel has great city views, a fine selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 0543 837475 la–residence–hue.com Built around the former co-

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lonial governor’s mansion, with a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you’re in paradise.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 0543 826736 hoangphuonghotel.com A budget option hotel, the Phuong Hoang offers reliable service and comfort, in additional to superb views of the Perfume River.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP

$ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh chaylap.org Near the Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge is accessible by public transport. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking and cave diving. SUN SPA RESORT $$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh, Tel: 0523 842999 sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

Nha Trang EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 0583 522222 sixsenses.com/evason-anamandara-nha-trang/ 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: 0583 622384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: 0918 821633 mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary has its own

private beach. With ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 0586 256900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: 0583 728222 sixsenses.com/sixsensesninhvanbay/ The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: 0583 880000 sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front property with six restaurants and bars, the Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool a fitness centre, a kid’s club, business centre, and a cooking school.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 0583 820999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn Awarded in Expedia’s World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009, the Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel and Spa is ideal for the diamond lifestyle. All rooms have a view of the sea.

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

$$ Tel: 0583 840501 whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island 60km north of Nha Trang is a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and an excellent seafood restaurant.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT AND SPA

$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 0583 670670 whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean upon a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants, a swimming pool and a spa.

Phan Thiet & Mui Ne ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 743777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 847322 life-resorts.com Under Life Resorts management, the Blue Ocean Resort includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar, a children’s activity playground, and an Irish bar.

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 847111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: 0623 847440 / 2 miamuine.com Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows overlooking the East Sea.

DU PARC PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES AND GOLF RESORT

$$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 822393 phanthietresorts.com A first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo, great food and service is offered

at this 123–room escape destination with private balconies and ocean or golf views.

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 0623 682222 princessannam.com Set on Ke Ga Bay, with a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country.

SHADES APARTMENTS

$$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 0623 743237 shadesmuine.com Beachfront apartments and studios with a luxurious outdoor pool and jacuzzi, and entertainment options including windsurfing, kite surfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides.

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 813000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

VILLA ARIA MUI NE

$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne Tel: 0623 741660 villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Mui Ne provides warm service, 22 spacious guestrooms, and one suite. The resort includes a pool overlooking the beachfront, and an alfresco dining lounge serving authentic Phan Thiet cuisine

Phu Quoc BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 0773 980998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

BO RESORT

$$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 0773 986142 boresort.com An eco-lodge with no televisions or air–conditioning, 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. The beachside restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a classic ‘French touch.’

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 centarahotelsresorts.com This 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first– class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant.

LA VERANDA

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalows lie within a beachside coconut palm plantation. The restaurant serves fresh seafood, the resort is laid– back and simple.

Sapa CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871218 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa re-

sorts, the Victoria include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers, a hilltop health club, tennis court, and pool. The entire resort has panoramic views of the town below.

Vung Tau & Ho Tram BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: 0643 351553 binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining, and a bar strategically located to watch the sunset.

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau ,Tel: 0643 830939 condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island this beachfront resort has mini-golf, kayaking, and sightseeing tours via trams.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Tel: 0643 781525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas prom-

ise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: 0643 781631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: 0643 852135 rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge.

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel : 0643 831222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao/ 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0773 982988 laverandaresorts.com Among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery brand has beautifully–designed rooms, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant.

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

Viet Nam

Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

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Tiêng viêt ĐÂY LÀ LONDON

Đây là London Bất chấp chi phí cao, London vẫn là một trong những thành phố năng động và hấp dẫn nhất thế giới. Khi đến đây, hãy chắc rằng bạn tránh xa mùa lạnh. Bài viết và hình ảnh bởi Nick Ross

ãy nghĩ tới một thành phố có 2 ngàn năm lịch sử, từng bị thiêu trụi một lần, bị đánh bom, xây dựng lại và vẫn là thành phố lớn nhất Châu Âu. Hãy tưởng tượng một nơi pha trộn giữa kiến trúc grandesse và lịch sử cùng với nghệ thuật đương đại, nhà hát lớn, hài kịch tiếng Anh hay nhất và âm nhạc đỉnh cao. Nghĩ tới một thành phố từng bị chê vì thức ăn tệ nhưng giờ lại là tâm điểm của một trong những nơi có ẩm thực tuyệt nhất hành tinh. Và nghĩ tới thành phố duy nhất trên thế giới từng làm chủ nhà thế vận hội Olympic không chỉ một hay hai, mà là ba lần. Đó chính là London. Có thể nó không phải là trung tâm kinh tế của thế giới năm ngoái –thời đại hoàng kim của đế chế này trong xã hội cũng như trong ý nghĩ đã là quá khứ rồi. Thay vào đó, đây vẫn là trung tâm thương mại và văn hóa nhờ vào sự giúp đỡ, thúc đẩy của vẻ ngoài quốc tế của nó. Ngày nay chưa tới một nửa dân số nơi đây là gốc da trắng, Anglo-Saxon, nhưng đó chỉ làm phong phú thêm nền văn hóa pha trộn, điều làm nên sự năng động của London. Và chính sự đa dạng này, thêm vào sự kết hợp giữa quá khứ và hiện tại, khiến cho London là một nơi tuyệt vời để đến thăm. Ở London bạn có thể làm mọi thứ hoặc trở thành bất cứ ai.

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Lạnh và Táo bạo Nếu bạn có dự định đến đây, lưu ý hai điều. Thứ nhất là chi phí. Trừ khi bạn gia nhập couchsurfing, hoặc thăm bạn hoặc có người cho ở nhờ kí túc xá; giá chỗ ở ở đây rất đắt. Hãy chuẩn bị. Và quan trọng hơn hết, tránh cái lạnh ra. Tác giả bài viết này đến đây vào tháng Ba và mắc phải tuyết mùa đông trong mùa xuân. Không hay lắm khi bạn muốn lang thang ngoài phố tận hưởng các địa điểm đẹp. Nhưng cho dù lạnh hay không lạnh, xét về âm nhạc và nơi thăm thú thì London có thừa. Tất cả chỉ là do bạn chọn thôi. Có rất nhiều nơi nổi bật. Ví dụ như khu ba bảo tàng liền nhau ở phía sau tòa nhà hoàng gia Albert ở Nam Kensington. Ngay bên cạnh là Bảo tàng khoa học, tuyệt vời khi bạn thích sự sáng tạo --ở nơi đây khoa học được biến tấu làm nó trở nên thú vị và hấp dẫn trẻ em cũng như người lớn. Sau đó cũng có bảo tàng lịch sử tự nhiên, ngôi nhà của những mô hình kích thước thật, sống động của loài khủng long ăn thịt T-Rex. Nếu bạn thích thiết kế, khó có nơi nào có thể sánh bằng kì quan khiến bạn mở rộng tầm mắt như Bảo tàng Victoria và Albert. Người hâm mộ bóng đá có thể ghé thăm các sân vận động. Vẻ đẹp của cầu Stamford và Emirates hấp dẫn kể cả người hâm mộ hay không, và tượng đá Arsenal mới dựng gần đây cũng là một điểm làm nơi đây

đáng ghé thăm. Người yêu nghệ thuật cũng sẽ tìm thấy thiên đường của mình ở đây, đặc biệt là bờ sông phía nam ngay Tate Modern, một trạm điện lực cũ được xây lại thành một bảo tàng nhiều tầng đẳng cấp thế giới. Viện này hiện tại đang có triển lãm Lichtensein mà người xem phải mua vé, nhưng cũng có rất nhiều phòng tranh khác ở đây có thể vào miễn phí. Và tất nhiên, nếu bạn muốn thấy London từ trên cao, hãy đến London Eye, đối diện Houses of Parliament và Big Ben. Bạn thậm chí có thể đứng ngay giữa đường kinh tuyến tại Greenwich, lằn đường hư cấu như đường xích đạo chỉ định từ Greenwich Mean Time làm mốc cho tất cả các múi giờ trên thế giới. Còn nếu bạn muốn, bạn có thể đặt một tour đến nghĩa trang Highgate, một nơi khá âm u nhưng lại có kiến trúc đẹp đến ngỡ ngàng, cũng là nơi yên nghỉ cuối cùng của Karl Marx và các danh nhân khác. Mặc dù vậy, đối với tôi, London được chiêm ngưỡng đẹp nhất khi bạn đi bộ hoặc đạp xe đạp –du khách giờ đây có thể thuê xe nhiều nơi, đi bao nhiêu trả bấy nhiêu. Khoảng đất rộng một dặm của quận City of London là một nơi tuyệt vời để bạn đi lang thang, cũng như Soho ở West End và phố Camden vào cuối tuần. Cũng đừng quên ghé thăm East End, đặc biệt là khu vực hiện đại, đầy tính nghệ thuật dọc theo Shoredtch, Spitafields và Brick Lane.

Nghệ thuật đường phố nơi đây cực kì ấn tượng cũng như sự ảnh hưởng của thời trang theo kiểu thập niên cũ, rất phong cách và thời thượng. Khi tới East End, bạn thậm chí có thể ghé thăm tiệm làm bánh bagel xưa nhất ở nước Anh, bản thân tiệm này đã một địa danh đáng thăm, ăn một bữa tại nhà hàng Ấn độ theo phong cách quốc tế tại Bangla Town hoặc thậm chí đi về phía nam đến Hoxton để tận hưởng các loại ẩm thực Việt Nam. Phở bò ở nhà hàng Song Quế được đánh giá khá cao có giá 200 ngàn đồng nhưng cũng đáng giá tiền, nhất là khi bạn đã quá chán kiểu ẩm thực Anh đâu cũng giống nhau.

Cách đến đây Vietnam Airlines có chuyến bay trực tiếp từ Hà Nội hoặc Hồ Chí Minh tới Gatwick. Tuy nhiên, để đến các vùng khác của Châu Âu, bạn nên lên chuyến bay trực tiếp đến Paris của hãng Air France rồi bắt tàu Eurostar qua Channel Tunnel. Chỉ hai giờ và mười lăm phút giữa hai thành phố. Đặt vé tàu trước và bạn sẽ được giảm giá vé chút ít khoảng 50 Bảng Anh (1.5 triệu VNĐ). Các hãng hàng không khác như Emirates, Qatar hoặc hơn cũng có các tuyến tới London với các trạm dừng ở Trung Á. Một chuyến nghỉ tốt nếu bạn không muốn ngồi trên một chuyến bay 12 tiếng liền, dễ dàng hơn nếu chia thành 2 chuyến bay 6 giờ.

Thông tin và Chỗ ở Tự gọi mình là “Cẩm nang du lịch London” và nó đúng như vậy thật. Để biết các sự kiện diễn ra ở tất cả các địa điểm, vào trang timeout.com/London. Nếu bạn muốn các thông tin chính thức hơn, ghé qua visitlondon.com. Trang này cũng giúp bạn tìm chỗ ở, mặc dù các trang như agoda.com cũng đã đủ cho việc này rồi. Để tiết kiệm chi phí du lịch trong thành phố, bạn sẽ cần có thẻ Oyster. Thẻ này giúp bạn giảm hầu hết các chi phí đi lại bằng các phương tiện trong thành phố xuống một nửa. Để biết thêm thông tin hãy vào oystercard.com.

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Hanoi GREENER DESIGN

INSIDER

A Philosophy You Can Sit In Future Living Studio has an ambitious vision of how product design could, and should, be in Vietnam. Fabiola Buchele meets the team behind the idea. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

he possibility that the ‘Made in Vietnam’ label may one day mean sustainable, eco-friendly, aesthetically slick and practical is the raison d’être of a new design project, Future Living Studio (FLS). In a shared space at Hanoi’s Bach Khoa University, a group of designers, three local, three foreign, will mind-map, design, troubleshoot and eventually emerge with a tangible vision for the future of Vietnamese product design in office furniture. The project, three months in duration, is being brought to Vietnam by 28-year-old American Shaun Jin as part of her PHD efforts at Telfs University in the Netherlands. Throughout the collaboration, the designers inhabit that exhilarating space that exists between the current reality and its possible alternatives.

Product The Reality There is a lot of the same, same with a dirth of difference. Trinh Mai Ngan, one

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of the Vietnamese designers who loves Scandinavian minimalism, says her preferred aesthetic has little place in a country where heavy, wooden furniture still rules the living rooms. Chinese plastic is having a field day and people want what they know. “Vietnamese clients want things to look like a picture,” she says. “They say they want new and different, but when you show them a design, they say they want this or that [changed] and you have to redesign until it ends up looking the same.” She adds: “I have to earn money, so the French classical stuff is what I have to design.” The Alternative Jin and her French co-organiser, Astrid Hauton, want to explore what is possible within the realm of what may be perceived as Vietnamese. For Hauton this is “working with Vietnamese material and [trying] to innovate from the technique”. Finishing this train of thought Jin adds: “We want to

keep the aesthetic of the design Vietnamese as this will ultimately give the products validity.” The collection of office furniture being produced under the working title ‘Green Working’ will therefore have to strive to surprise with omnipresent materials like bamboo.

Process The Reality German Michael Schuster, the only man in the design team, started to see the ingenuity behind problem solving in Vietnam while his visa stamp was still wet. “People are engaged in unintentional product design all the time,” he says. “They find a solution in that moment and use it. They use what they have and make something of it. Like this guy I couch surf with, he made himself a sponge out of fishing nets to do the dishes.” It is perhaps these easy fixes that have created a disregard for the design process itself. It’s just something ordinary that

everyone does. You want a table, you attach a plank on four stilts and off you go. The Alternative FLS, though wanting to harvest this culture of recycling and not letting anything go to waste, have their eyes on the next level. “We want to create attention around design while working with both the companies making the product and those using it,” says Hauton. The work structure has three components, at the centre of which is the designer, or in this case, the design team. The designers are asked to research their clients’ requirements as well as possible manufacturers for the solutions they come up with. In the process, the team is hoping to turn the culture of almost thoughtless recycling into one of extraordinarily aware up-cycling and innovative use of ready available materials.

People The Reality There are few if any product designers in

Hanoi. The three women who make up the Vietnamese component of the design team all have an architectural background. The call for product designers was answered by only 10 Vietnamese applications, less than a third of the international applicants. The few designers in the city are faced with having to build an industry from scratch. “People don’t know the value of design yet,” Jin says. This needs to be overcome if a brand new industry is going to stick. And perhaps closer to her heart is the need to empower these designers: “Most of them are very young and lack power in the Vietnamese hierarchy. We want to build up their confidence.” The Alternative If FLS is anything to go by, it seems that the future of product design, or the very establishment of the industry, is firmly in the hands of women. The general consensus of everyone involved at FLS is that women in Vietnam are the ones that bring to the

table what a new generation of product designers need: a willingness to take risks, a tendency to look at the bigger picture and the ability to adapt to new ways of thinking. Not to say that boys can’t play at that game, but perhaps by learning the rules so early, these women may just be able to keep the glazier from putting that infamous ceiling over their profession.

The Project Hanoi is playing host to the third edition of this project. Two previous three-month collaborations have already taken place in Ho Chi Minh City. An open day of the work space and the progress will be hosted at Room 507 on the 5th floor of the Ta Quang Buu Library building of Hanoi’s Bach Khoa University at 1 Dai Co Viet on Apr. 16 from 4pm to 6pm. Info about the project, its sponsors and designers can be found at www.futurelivingstudio.com

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The Final Say DEAD HEAT / THE LAST CALL

CRIME FICTION SERIAL

Dead Heat The Final Act Russell Kemp, an ex-captain in the South African Police Service and now a private detective, has teamed up with an ex-detective from the HCMC Police Force named Tran Hai Duong. The two men are on the trail of Gerard Prinsloo, a South African serial killer who is operating in Vietnam. They have finally discovered the location of Prinsloo’s secret hideaway in District 2. They know too that he has gone there with a young Vietnamese woman… By Rob Marsh

fleet of three police vehicles sped out of the Dakao Ward Police Station and headed for District 2, sirens blaring. In the lead car was Captain Le, the chief investigating officer accompanied by three detectives, all armed and ready. More police officers were crammed into the second car while Russell Kemp, Tran Hai Duong, Nguyen Ba Hoa, the twin sister of one of Prinsloo’s victims, and Phan Van Phu, Gerard Prinsloo’s visibly nervous landlord, had all been relegated to the third. It was as the convoy was trying to weave its way through Ho Chi Minh City’s early evening traffic that the vehicles became separated. That was when Kemp started shouting at the driver, urging him to keep up, but there was little that he could do…

District 2 In the kitchen, Ngo Thi Bich said, “I wan’ you take me back home, Distric’ 1, Gerar’.” Prinsloo looked at her. “Now, Bich?” he queried. “Yeah, now. I go now,” but when she stood up and made to head for the sliding door that led out onto the patio he reached for the black-handled knife he had placed so conspicuously between them on the

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table. “Not just yet,” he said, smiling. That was when she felt fear wash over her. It was his bizarre behaviour that had frightened her and despite the grin there was no emotion on his face that she could recognise. Instead of arguing, she turned and walked towards the front door of the house. First she wrenched at the door handle then went running up the stairs. Calmly picking up the knife, Prinsloo went after her.

At the Riverside Two blocks from their destination the two leading police vehicles turned down a narrow side street. That was when the landlord suddenly became agitated. “He says they’ve gone the wrong way,” Ba Hoa said. Duong, meanwhile, was already speaking on the radio. Kemp’s vehicle was the first to pull up outside Prinsloo’s hideaway. While Kemp ran down an alleyway at the side of the building Duong began hammering on the front door, then he put his shoulder to the woodwork. Somewhere upstairs a girl started screaming. The side gate was open, so too, the

kitchen door. When Kemp burst into the house Prinsloo was waiting for him. “Can I help you, sir?” he asked. It was the incongruity of the remark that caused Kemp to drop his guard for a moment. When Prinsloo saw that his quarry had not reacted, he felt the rush of his own adrenalin, the surge of his own power. He saw himself then as Kemp would see him — a concerned house-holder shocked by the presence of an intruder. That was when he stepped forward; unhurried movements, even as he drew out the knife. At the last moment, Kemp tried to move to one side as the knife whipped down in a gleaming arc, but by then it was too late. The blade ripped through his jacket and bit deep into his shoulder. He gave a kind of cry and in the panic of the moment slid away from the blow. He careered into a sideboard then went down on one knee. Prinsloo closed on him, but even as he advanced Kemp was rising once more to greet him. One arm was already bloodied and hung useless at his side and Prinsloo, even in his blood lust, had for a moment to admire the vigour of the man. Kemp was faster than Prinsloo had expected, more powerful and more cunning, too. Instead of retreating, he

Photo by: kevin dooley and Marcus Vegas

stepped forward and with his one good arm reached up and parried the knife, barging into his attacker. Taken by surprise, Prinsloo stumbled backwards and felt the sharp stab of the table’s edge. The knife slipped from his grasp and went skittering across the floor. Kemp came at him a second time, reaching weakly with his good arm, but relentless all the same. Prinsloo struck out with his fists, caught Kemp on the side of the face. Saw him weaken and moved in on him again. Two more hammer blows — one, two — hard against the head and he went down onto all fours. Blood was pouring from Kemp’s nose onto the tiles. Prinsloo kicked him hard in the ribs, lifted him with the blow, heard the air blast from his lungs. Picking up the knife, he turned and ran up the stairs again. In the bedroom, the girl was trying to open the doors onto the balcony. In one fluid movement Prinsloo grasped her arm, swung her around and had the knife against her throat, even as Kemp staggered panting into the bedroom. “Let her go,” Kemp gasped. “It’s over.” “Is it?” Prinsloo asked. He was standing in front of the balcony doors using Bich as a shield. “You don’t have to hurt her. Just let her go.”

“You’re right, it’s over,” Prinsloo said and stuck the blade up to the hilt into the young woman’s throat. He heard Kemp shouting as she struggled, while the blood sprayed in a fountain. He jerked the knife first one way then the other before pulling it out then he let her go and stood motionless as she slumped to the floor. When Kemp ran at him Prinsloo stood his ground, lifted his arms like clubs, but a fight was not what his attacker intended. At the last moment Kemp dropped his good shoulder, took him in the stomach, lifting him even as they crashed through the balcony doors. Prinsloo felt the balcony railing hard against his thighs before the world began to tilt. Going backwards out into space he clawed uselessly at the air. A moment spent falling — the great arched dome of the sky, then trees and bushes inverted on the river bank, then the river itself — followed by an instant of searing pain. Lying on the flagstones Prinsloo gazed up into the heavens. He recalled Aunt Clara, recalled Nguyen Hai Hien, remembered all of his victims, each one vivid for an instant in his memory. Then, above the clouds, above the atmosphere the stars began to flare and die;

first one, then another, then the rest: dark, darker… gone… Through a melee of police officers and flashing lights, a concerned Duong watched Kemp being lifted into the ambulance then clambered in beside him. “You do good, Mitter Kemp,” he said, patting him on the arm. Kemp was shivering uncontrollably. It took all his strength to answer. “A woman died,” he whispered. “Yes, but lot more die without you,” the other said. “I very proud work wi’ you.” For the life of him, Kemp couldn’t think why. “You go home now, OK. Back South Africa,” Duong said. Kemp briefly considered the future. “Yes… maybe,” he answered, though he didn’t sound very certain. This is a work of fiction. All names, characters and incidents are invented. Rob Marsh is the author of 30 published books (both fiction and non-fiction). He has a special interest in matters crime-related and is the author of Famous South African Crimes and With Criminal Intent: the changing face of crime in South Africa. He currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City.

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the LAST CALL

Business woman, mother and educator Thuy Nguyen is general director of Australian International School (AIS), and one of the guiding forces in our city’s education scene. She tells the story, and where it goes from here. Photo by Alexandre Garel

MY FATHER… comes from a very artistic family. He is an architect and author, his brother is a painter and poet, and their father, Nguyen Dinh Thi, was a well-known philosopher, poet and songwriter. GROWING UP IN THAT ENVIRONMENT… was very stimulating, but I decided at an early age that I didn’t want to become an artist. I like to buy new clothes from time to time.

THE IDEA TO START AIS… came from a dinner table conversation with my husband, Nigel, in April 2005. We believed there was an opportunity to set up a high quality international school in Ho Chi Minh City. That opportunity was realised when we secured RMIT’s city campus on Pham Ngoc Thach, District 3 as our initial campus, and obtained an investment license to establish the school in July 2006 — only a few weeks before we were due to open! IN THE REAL WORLD, AIS GRADUATES… will be intelligent and confident. Teachers and students at AIS focus on academic excellence, and this is supplemented by developing a range of valuable life skills, all of which combine to mould children into well-rounded individuals who will succeed in the “real world”.

SPORTS MATTER BECAUSE… we

believe physical activity, team spirit, leadership and competition all contribute to ‘well-roundedness’.

THE CULTURAL BALANCE I’M LOOKING FOR IN MY OWN CHILDREN… is a high

level of familiarity and comfort with several languages and cultures. I think this will become increasingly important as the world continues to ‘shrink’, and people need more and more to be able to understand and communicate cross-culturally.

FRENCH COMES INTO THE EQUATION BECAUSE… no matter what some English-

speakers might think, it is one of the world’s most important languages, and the gateway to so much rich history and culture.

WORKING ON SCHOOL MILK PROGRAMMES WITH THE US DURING THE CLINTON ERA… was an honour.

At that time, I was working at Tetrapak, and I helped establish and coordinate the programmes in conjunction with the USDA and Vietnamese government bodies and schools, many of which were in remote areas.

QUOTAS AT INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS… are necessary, for the benefit

of all students. A school ceases to be ‘international’ when it is dominated by one national group.

THE VALUE OF AN EDUCATION… is measured in academic results, of course, but also in the development that parents see in their children’s abilities and confidence.

MY NEXT STEP IN LIFE… will take me

THE COST OF AN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL EDUCATION… is offset by

to slot some yoga back into my weekly routine. It slipped out a few months ago, and my body is not happy.

the sense of security that parents feel in

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knowing that their child is receiving the best quality education available in Ho Chi Minh City and that they are on track to enter a good international university; and that their child is being looked after by staff who really care.

somewhere unexpected. At least, that’s what my fortune teller tells me.

MY NEXT BIG CHALLENGE… will be