Word Ho Chi Minh City December 2012 by Word Vietnam

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

DECEMBER 2012

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

Contents

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DECEMBER 2012

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FEATURES 036

2020 VINAVISION

We predict what the future holds for Ho Chi Minh City and its people

052 006 | The Prelude THE TALK 009 | The Big Five

A JOURNEY TO THE LAND OF WHISPERS

This isolated fortress opens its door just a little to allow our writer a glimpse of what North Korea is really about

058

WHERE HAVE ALL THE PEOPLE GONE?

The Crescent in District 7 didn’t live up to the hype and is now struggling to keep businesses from leaving. Find out why

060

LATTE SAFARI

We found an insane person to taste test 10 lattes within several hours to find out the best

064

CHRISTMAS WISH LIST

Kids tell us what they want from St Nick this year

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THE GIFT OF GIVING

No need to guess what she wants for Christmas, we’ve got the answers

These artists mimic master painters such as Van Gogh and Dali for a living

062 l Vegging Out Learn how to build a garden in your home or apartment

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108 l Food Promos 112 l Road Rules CITY GUIDE TIENG VIET HANOI 137 l The Sound of Silence

FINAL SAY

032 l Time To Wake Up, Saigon

034 l Paint by Number

084 l Destination Zero

139 l The Black and White Portrait Artist

INSIDER

A duo tries to shake the city up with fun-filled events

COLUMNS

144 l Missing Person

Trivia Buff Answers See p151 for the original puzzle 1) The Crocodile Hunter 2) TSB 3) Anthony Hopkins 4) Wellington 5) Greece 6) Sex Addicts Anonymous 7) Marvin Gaye 8) Thomas Edison 9) Edward Lear 10) Being ill 11) Ashtray Baby Heads 12) Halal 13) Hawaii 14) Your Memory 15) Cucumber 16) Nokia 17) Anne Nightingale 18) Kool & The Gang 19) Joan Collins 20) Formic acid

Help us reunite a family with their missing love one

146 l Dead Heat The killer is about to trap his next victim

152 l The Last Call Read about Santa’s naughty side

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL CHRISTINE VAN Chief Editor christine@wordhcmc.com

NAM QUAN Staff Photographer nam@wordhcmc.com

PAOLO MALING Art Director paolo@wordhcmc.com

CHARLES BARNES Staff Photographer charles@wordhcmc.com

NGUYEN THUC DOAN HIEN Layout Designer hien@wordhcmc.com

JAMES ALLEN Deputy Editor james@wordhcmc.com

VU HA KIM VY Staff Reporter kimvy@wordhcmc.com

NICK ROSS Editor-at-Large nick@wordhcmc.com

ADMINISTRATION DUONG VY BAO General Director bao@wordhcmc.com bao@wordhanoi.com

LE DANG PHUONG TRANG Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

ADVERTISING DUONG THI THANH XUAN Sales Manager xuan@wordhcmc.com

NGUYEN THUC DOAN HIEN Graphic Designer hien@wordhcmc.com

DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordhcmc.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS accountant@wordhcmc.com

For advertising enquiries please call Xuan on +84 1227 055122 or Bao on +84 938 609 689 Special thanks to Michael Halloran, Rob Marsh, James Pham, Francis Xavier, Kyle Phanroy, Bennett Davidson, Adam Astley and Lyra Dacio for their contribution to this issue.

Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word (Ho Chi Minh city và HaNoi) của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC

Crossword Answers See p154 for the original puzzle. Puzzle by Frank A. Longo. Edited by Will Shortz

Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Công Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Quận 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com

In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161/CXB-QLXB/ ngày 18/01/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 419/QĐCN-LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 13/11/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

The Prelude I

n an effort to predict the future, we sought the wise words of a fortuneteller. Unfortunately she bailed at the last minute because of some reproachful spirits; apparently our reputation has preceded us into the afterlife now too. So in the absence of the all-seeing soothsayer, we gave the job to the oddest person in our office (the competition was fierce). Naturally a strange creature emerged and took to the job with zeal. Prone to a good bit of mysterious mumbling, our newly trained mystic addressed the question of where we will be in 2020 (the city not the editorial team), with eight predictions to keep you going until the end of the decade. Are they profound or just a bag of old bull? You decide. 1) Singing Happy New Year by Abba will be an enforced morning activity at every workplace for the two-month period prior to Tet. Passport applications will increase. 2) Ho Chi Minh City Fashion Week will

INBOX THE FRUIT OF MY LABOUR

(The Apple of My Eye, November 2012) I’m not shocked or surprised by this article. I’ve seen my friends get suckered by chicks like Phuong all the time with sob stories about sick relatives. They live overseas and come to Vietnam on a part time basis. They deserve what they get. — Adam

If only Apple could see how they’re corrupting the moral fabric of Vietnam. — Chuong

ALL THE TIME IN THE WORLD

(The Free Man, November 2012) I feel this article was a non-article. It didn’t explain why he’s an interesting person or didn’t really say he was doing anything interesting. Just because he has free time on his hand and opens up a shop doesn’t warrant an article. — Ethan

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rival that of Paris, and Donatella Versace will be awarded an honorary degree at the University of Social Sciences and Humanities. 3) Pho will have been exported to every continent, including Antarctica. The international average cost for one bowl will be over US$20. 4) Halong Bay will be pedestrianised. 5) Vietnam will be the first nation to bring street food to the International Space Station. 6) Cars will be banned in the centre of Vietnam’s biggest cities. 7) A Vietnamese inventor will be responsible for some of the most innovative renewable fuel solutions of the 21st century. 8) A new bullet train will take customers from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi in five hours. Kidding aside, luckily for us and for our journalistic integrity, we also spent the month consulting experts over a range of specific fields to debate a number of likely predictions for the year 2020. Read on and you’ll find out what people had to say.

Taking a break from our crystal ball, we have been working hard on our carbon footprint, with Chrystian Cohen taking a tour around North Korea where he was able to take some spectacular photos and come back in one piece with a pretty amazing story under his belt. From one controversial Asian institution to another, Chris Baker has been working hard to dispel the myth surrounding Chinese medicine and whether we should finally just relinquish it to our history books. Elsewhere in this issue, you can learn how to grow a garden in your home, and discover just a few of the city’s best places to get a caffeine fix. As it’s officially the holidays, we would like to wish everyone a good present haul this year! And to everyone a Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukah, Eid Mubarak and Kwanzaa Yenu Iwe Na Heri from everyone here at Word. Send all your festive tidings to Christine Van at christine@wordhcmc.com.

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US EITHER BY EMAIL ON CHRISTINE@WORDHCMC. COM OR BY TEXT ON 0947 074 136 — WE’RE NOW AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

GET IT RIGHT

(Answering the Critics, November 2012) I’m happy to see that in the last issue you covered Huyen Chip and her book Xach Balo len va Di (Pack your Bags and Go) because it is a hot topic among Vietnamese youth. However, I think the writer is too subjective to say: “According to conservatives, Chip epitomizes selfishness. How she could spend two years travelling and enjoying herself, rather than looking after her parents and studying, is beyond some in her homeland”. Actually the reasons the writer mentioned are not representative and they are almost at the bottom of the list criticisms. She has been condemned firstly because the stories will encourage other youngsters to travel abroad without proper preparation. This could put them in danger. Huyen had only US$700 and travelled to many countries by working to earn money to continue the trip. But what if she had been trafficked, got sick, had an accident, or got put into jail because of working illegally? She is reckless. Secondly, how much truth are there in her stories? According to Minh Tri, a writer for the People Police newspaper, no-one can actually verify how much money she actually brought with her. I also want to comment about the editor’s choice of the Huyen Chip’s photo in the story. I got confused. What message do you want to send through the image of a teenager lying in bed? I don’t see the portrait of a strong-spirited, dynamic travel writer. It doesn’t match the content of the story. I hope to see more good stuff in the mag. — Ha Nguy

The Talk

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

THE

BIG 1

NYE WITH A VIEW

Burger King and Subway are here. Domino’s is starting to expand, Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf is increasing its presence, as is Pizza Hut, Trung Nguyen, Tous les Jours, Al Fresco’s, Baskin Robbins and Lotteria. Nationwide, KFC now has well over 100 stores. Starbucks is even due to open its first café this month in Ho Chi Minh City. On the face of it, these various, relatively inexpensive international food and beverage chains seem to be faring well.

Let Me Entertain You

Annus Horribilis? Although recession is still here, the food and beverage industry is starting to boom. Photo by Francis Roux “[THIS] IS NOT A YEAR ON WHICH I shall look back with undiluted pleasure,” said the British monarch Queen Elizabeth famously in 1992. “It has turned out to be an annus horribilis”. Although referring to the tribulations and misfortunes of her family, it’s a phrase that in certain respects could also be applied to Vietnam. It’s been a recurring theme this year — the economic slowdown, the stalled construction projects, issues with self-expression, doom, gloom, more doom and even more gloom. According to Nielsen Vietnam, consumption has also been hit. Fearing tough times ahead, nine out of ten Vietnamese are changing their spending habits to save more. And while during the third quarter of 2012, the global consumer confidence index increased

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by a point, suggesting a recovery is on its way, in Vietnam there was a dip of 8 points. The biggest concern, says Nielsen, were increasing utility bills. It’s a typical sign of a struggling economy — rising costs, consumption on the fall, money hard to come by. Yet, one industry seems to have fared remarkably well. Or at least, it has the appearance of faring well: food and beverage. One of the supposed recession-proof industries — the others include healthcare, the skilled services provided by plumbers, electricians, hair stylists and the cinema — the obsession with eating out and making regular visits to watering holes, from bia hoi on the street through to rooftop bars on the top of office blocks, seems to be far from abating.

As the western press has constantly pointed out, during periods of deprivation such as a recession, people feel fully justified on spending on more cost-conscious forms of entertainment. So, rather than travelling business for their annual vacation they will fly economy. Instead of flying with Singapore Airlines they’ll travel with AirAsia, and if they go to a rock concert — as Status Quo’s Rick Parfitt was quoted as saying on a recent article on the BBC website — "they will fork out the cost of the ticket but be less likely to spend on merchandising." In Vietnam the notion of entertainment transforms itself to the country’s favourite pastime: eating out and drinking with friends. And yet, the number of nonaffiliated bars, cafes and restaurants that seem to be sprouting up is nonsensical. There was a period when Word was able to keep up with the new openings. But such is the volume, especially with all the food courts working their way into Vietnam, that it’s now become impossible. The question, though, is how will everyone survive? Surely we’re hitting saturation point. According to a recent Cline Group study of restaurants in Dallas, Texas, 23 percent of all start-ups failed within their first 12 months. An additional 14 percent closed in year 2, while 7 percent shut up shop in year 3. Which all suggests that as reality bites, this little boom may be short-lived. The fro-yo, or frozen yoghurt explosion a few years ago, is a prime example of such saturation. Within a space of a few short months, from nowhere there seemed to be a fro-yo store on almost every Ho Chi Minh City street corner. Now there is a noticeable absence of this ‘healthy’ ice-cream alternative. As for Queen Elizabeth, though, 2012 couldn’t have been a better year. Early in the summer she celebrated 60 years on the throne and then a month or so later was seen jumping out of a helicopter at the opening ceremony of the London Olympics. An annus mirabilis?

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH THE FILM EXPERIMENT An official screening of Sigur Rós’ Valtari Mystery Film Experiment ment will take place in Ho Chi Minh City thankss to The Onion Cellar, in collaboration with h Saigon Outcast on Saturday Dec. 8. Upon the release of their album Valtari, i, Sigur Rós gave a dozen zen filmmakers the same modest budget and asked them to create whatever came into their head when they listened to o songs from the album. The Valtari Film Experiment eventually collected at least 17 commissioned “official” al” and fan-created short films created to coincide with the album Valtari. The programme will screen on all seven en continents including Antarctica, with venues ranging g from cinemas, cinema-like spaces, rock clubs, Native American casinos, to hardware stores, hairdresser salons, and beyond. Tickets are priced at VND50,000 and the screening starts at 7pm. Saigon Outcast is located at 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2

A BAZAAR CHRISTMAS

It wouldn’t be NYE without a decent view, so for 2013 Chill is offering one of the best in town from atop the AB tower for a night of champagne, fireworks and food. The New Year’s countdown from 9pm until 3am, with three DJs, a live music performance and a glass of champagne at midnight is available for VND1 million. If you’re hungry Chill has created two dinner packages for the night. The New Year’s Eve package comes complete with five courses, free flow of wine, beer and soft drinks, and one glass of champagne at countdown, all for VND3,750,000. If you prefer the VIP treatment then for VND5,208,000 you will be able to take over the VIP dining room with 10 to 12 of your closest friends for a five-course menu, two bottles of premium champagne and free flow wine, beer and soft drinks throughout the night. For more inf fo, contact trung.nguyen@chillsaigon.com or call 0909 633421 info,

SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED

The next French Charity Christmas Bazaar, with all proceeds going towards new equipment and schooling for deaf children, will take place on Dec. 8 at the Boat House from 10am to 5pm. The bazaar will feature more than 35 exhibitors, a gourmet corner and a children’s area with games and a French crepe shop. There will also be affordable finger food, and from 4pm a soprano from the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House will sing for guests. The Boat House is located at 40 Lily, APSC, 36 Thao Dien, Q2

This Christmas, BBGV will be celebrating 50 years of James Bond with a special dinner party in his honour on Dec. 7 from 7pm at the Caravelle. The Shaken, Not Stirred dinner party includes a four-course turkey Christmas dinner (vegetarian & fish option available) with free flow cocktails before the meal, and wine, beer and some bubbles during. Entertainment including live music from the Pho Fighters will be followed by a disco. A charity raffle will be held during the evening with raffle tickets priced at VND100,000 each. Guests are invited to dress up as their favourite Bond or Bond girl for the night. Entrance for members is priced at VND2.2 million and for nonmembers entrance will be VND2.6 million. Contact Thao at events@bbgv.org or 3829 8430 to register

CHIT CHAT The well-known Japanese art from, PechaKucha, is coming to Ho Chi Minh City on Dec. 4 from 6.30pm at VinGallery Meaning chit chat in Japanese, PechaKucha is a presentation guideline based on the format of showing 20 images, each one for 20 seconds (a total of six minutes and 40 seconds). Two architects in Tokyo created the PechaKucha format in 2003 as a way for designers and creative minds to meet, show their work and ideas, and share with one another at a social venue. Since 2003 over 570 cities hold the rights for the format. Entrance is VND100,000 on the door until they sell out. Spirits, snacks and creative ideas/images provided. VinGallery is located at 4 Le Van Mien, Q2

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Just In SLEEP IN STYLE

SPACE A second gallery space in Ho Chi Minh City is due to open for Galerie Quynh just before Tet 2013. The 90sqm gallery will be located at 151/3 Dong Khoi, Q1. Having two spaces in the city will permit the gallery to extend their programme and offer audiences a greater selection of contemporary art by some of Vietnam's most acclaimed artists as well as artists from around the world. Galerie Quynh has also announced the arrival of Hanoi-based artist Ha Manh Thang to the gallery's roster of exhibited artists.

If you should venture up north, The Pullman Hanoi (40 Cat Linh) has just opened its doors just ten minutes away from Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Within close proximity to government, diplomatic and business offices, the hotel’s location is also ideally situated to provide easy access to discover the city. The Pullman Hanoi offers guests a choice of 242 recently refurbished rooms with the Signature Pullman bedding in deluxe and executive rooms as well as an all day dining restaurant and bar. Comprehensive meeting facilities are available for up to 700 delegates and there is a 24hr Fit Lounge and complimentary Wi-Fi for guests. Check out www.pullman-hanoi.com for more details on booking, call (04) 3733 0808 or email getcloser@pullman-hanoi.com.

SPA DEBUT For the first time ever Caravelle Hotel will manage its own spa Kara, in-house. Six weeks after its soft debut, Kara Salon & Spa on the seventh eventh floor of the hotel has fully opened its doors to guests and visitors seeking a breather from the relentless pace of the streets below. The Caravelle Hotel is located at 19 Lam Son, Q1

GET FESTIVE AT ALTITUDE The three dining and drinking venues on the 50th, 51st and 52nd floor of the Bitxeco Financial Tower will be pulling out all the stops during the festive season. At Strata on the 50th floor, the cafe and restaurant just above the Bitexco viewing deck, chef Gabriel Boyer has prepared seasonal lunches and dinners that are being served throughout the whole of December, with special menus available for Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. While in Alto, the bar on Level 52, there will be a huge countdown bash for New Year's Eve. With the option of combining dinner at the newly opened fine dining Cirrus on the floor below, the party will include a modern DJ playing “old school” international tunes, and the organisers will also be teaming up with French Tuesdays to add some extra pzazz. And if nothing else, where better to watch the New Year's Eve fireworks and laugh at the traffic down below than from atop Saigon's tallest building? Advance bookings for New Year's Eve are a must. For further information email info@ saigongourmetgroup.com or go to www. saigongourmetgroup.com

RECYCLED WORKS 11 young emerging Thai artists will head to Monsoon (1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1) to exhibit work made from recycled materials until Jan. 6. Monsoon Saigon and Monsoon Yangon are the main sponsors for the exhibitions both in Thailand and Vietnam in support of the artists from the prestigious Silpakorn Art University in Thailand. Finger food, beer and wine will be served at the opening reception from 7pm until 9pm on Dec. 22.

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JAVA JUICE World-renowned Swiss coffee machine brand Jura is now available in Vietnam. Cubes Vina offers the Jura high-end automatic machines for household and commercial use, and provides dedicated customer service, warranty and after sales service. The detailed and reliable Jura Coffee makers are often found in many international hotels as well as being owned by private customers. For more information, contact Tram Nguyen at tram@cubes.com.vn

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The Buzz GETTING JAZZY WITH IT A jazz concert with French musician Sophie Alour will take place at IDECAF on Dec. 4 from 8pm. Originally studying the clarinet, it was not until the age of 19 that Alour picked up the saxophone. Now playing with artists such as Wynton Marsalis, Rhoda Scott and Aldo Romano, she also received the Django dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;or Award for young talent in 2007. In Ho Chi Minh City she will be accompanied by Tran Manh Tuan, Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best known saxophonist. Tickets are VND100,000 and can be purchased at IDECAF (31 Thai Van Lung, Q1).

WITH BELLS ON DOWN SIZING A group exhibition with Christmas in mind will be presented by VinGallery (4 Le Van Mien, Q2) from Dec. 8 between 6pm until 9pm. The concept of the exhibition is based on giving. Small Things is a collection of the smaller pieces of work that artists have created, which can be an ideal gift for that special someone.

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A Christmas cabaret will be decking the halls at the Sofitel Plaza (17 Le Duan, Q1) on Dec. 7 and Dec. 8 from 6.30pm with all proceeds going to charity. A three-course dinner with free flow beer, wine and soft drinks, plus all your favourite Christmas carols and songs will help ring in the festive season with help from the international choir and orchestra of Ho Chi Minh City. Tickets are priced at VND1,890,000 and all proceeds will go to the Loreto Vietnam-Australia Program.

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the talk

EVOLUTION Luong Luu Bien’s latest collection of mixed media paintings and earthenware sculptures entitled Evolution will go on show at Craig Thomas Gallery from Dec. 8 until Dec. 29. Evolution represents a radical departure in tone for an introspective and empathetic artist such as Bien. The paintings evoke an artist who has undergone a profound emotional renewal — they express representations of joy, playfulness and kinetic energy. The opening will start from 6pm on Dec. 6 at 19 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Villa Compound, Thao Dien, Q2. The exhibition will move back to Craig Thomas Gallery on Dec. 8 which is located at 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1

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A CUBAN NEW YEAR Saigon Saigon Bar on the ninth floor of the Caravelle Hotel is throwing a Drums Party in honour of the popular Cuban street festival from 9pm to 1am every night from Dec. 24 to Dec. 31. The Cuban band Corazon Latino will be on hand to provide the tunes and help create the spirit, and a number of Cuban-style specials will be on offer. A cover charge will be applied on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve of VND230,000. Entrance is free for the rest of the week. The Caravelle Hotel is at 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1

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the talk

SAILING CLUB NHA TRANG Nha Trangâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic beachside bar and restaurant is putting on a range of parties and dinner deals for the festive period. From Dec. 20 every dinnertime the venue will have a special set menu on offer with all the festive treats, running alongside three different kitchen menus. Dec 24: They will have a two or three-course dinner menu with the first seating at 6.30pm and second seating at 8.45pm. Pre booking required as availability is limited. Includes entrance to the Christmas Eve party. Dec. 31: A platter feast over two seatings. Pre-booking only and dinner includes entrance to the Biggest Party of 2012. Dec. 24 at the club: An indoor and outdoor beach party, live international bands, 3 DJS, 6 bars including an ICE bar, BBQ, full A/V production, professional stage shows, fire shows and Santa's big give away. Dec. 31 at the club: Huge firework display on the sea, eight bars including an ICE bar, BBQ, full production, including sound and lighting with a rock show, light show, five-piece fire show, international bands, 3 DJs plus guest international DJ. Tickets are available in advance to avoid disappointment. You get the pictureâ&#x20AC;Ś For bookings contact promotions@sailingclubnhatrang.com.

PARTY LIKE A SUPER HERO The Park Hyatt see-and-be-seen-at Martini Bar will be running a special End of the World Super Hero party on Thursday Dec. 20. With a buy-one-get-one-free bottle special off of selected items, there will be a best costume contest with prizes for first, second and third. Time to take that super hero outfit out the wardrobe, then. The Martini Bar is at 2 Lam Son, Q1 with its main entrance on Hai Ba Trung. www.parkhyattsaigon.com

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December 2012 Word | 17

Word of Mouth

NEW AIR FRANCE FARES TO EUROPE On the launch of their winter schedule, Air France KLM is introducing new return fares to Paris and Europe from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Including taxes and surcharges you can now fly direct to Paris for as little as VND21.7 million, while London starts at VND25 million, Frankfurt costs VND24.3 million and the return flight to Amsterdam with KLM costs VND23.6 million. Five direct weekly, overnight flights with Air France run between Ho Chi Minh City and Paris Charles de Gaulle, while in a code share with Vietnam Airlines, there are six weekly flights from Hanoi. For further information go to www.airfrance.com.vn

GERMANY MEETS CAO BANG The newly established International German School (IGS) in District 2 recently welcomed guests from the Mong, Lo Lo, Nung, Red Dao and Money Dao tribes â&#x20AC;&#x201D; all ethnic minorities from northern Vietnam as part of a cultural exchange run by NGOs Helvetas and Decen. The people from Cao Bang, aged from their mid-20s and up to 54 years old, got on an airplane for the first time of their lives, making the four-day journey to Saigon for a handicraft bazaar at the Renaissance Riverside Hotel. The children at IGS were able to interact with the ten women and one man from Cao Bang and were keen to ask lots of questions as well as admiring their clothing, a definite first for both parties reported the school.

PLAY BALL! If you are feeling limber, The Saigon Shooters next season is about to start and they are putting a call out for players and umpires. For the early birds The Shooters is offering an early registration discount if you sign up before Dec. 14. Due to a large amount of individuals coming forward last season they are planning to put together at least five to six teams including adults (mixed), 16 and under, and 11 and under. Umpires are also needed and in an effort to keep the system fair, umpires will be receive VND120,000 per game which will be paid at the end of the season or earlier if the umpire is leaving. For more info, go to www.saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

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FREEBIE To celebrate selling their 100th bamboo bike, Mekong Creations is offering a nice little freebie to go with your newly purchased eco-friendly ride around town. For every bamboo bike you purchase you will also receive a free laptop bag made right here in Vietnam. The promotion is valid until Dec. 31, ask in store for more details. Mekong Creations is located at 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 and S17-1 Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

THE HEALER A new orthopaedic manual therapist Gregory Beale LMT, NASM-CPT has recently arrived in Vietnam from the US. Using trigger point therapy, deep tissue massage and personal training to treat chronic pain and sports injuries, Gregory has helped everyone from office workers with poor posture to elite marathon runners and triathletes feel and perform better. He is based in An Phu and available for private sessions in your home or gym. There is a 20 percent discount for first time clients in the month of December. For more info, go to www. gregbealetherapyfitness.com

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HAPPY CAMPERS A new educational holiday camp is being run for the first time by The Kindermusik Early Childhood Education Center for children from three-and-a-half years old to six-and-a-half years old. Curricula align with the UK Early Years Foundation Stage (EYFS), Common European Framework of references for languages (CEFR) and International Baccalaureate Primary years programme (PYP). The holiday camp will run on mornings or afternoons, three-and-ahalf hours each session, from Dec. 17 until Dec. 21 and again from Dec. 31 until Jan. 4. For more information, go to www.kindermusik.edu.vn

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In the Papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

the talk SINGAPORE SCHOOL VANISHES A Singapore-owned business school in Ho Chi Minh City, that was in the authorities’ sights for offering unauthorised courses, has closed down without notice, prompting them to consider cancelling the licenses of two other Singaporean schools also found violating regulations. The Department of Labor, War Invalids and Social Affairs revoked the license of Melior Business School soon after it shut. It had been licensed to offer only short-term courses in tourism and hotel management and business administration, but was found offering undergraduate courses. But before they could act, Melior closed abruptly. A notice outside its building left foreign teachers and around 150 students in shock since many of the latter had paid tuition fees of VND220 million only days before. A source told Thanh Nien that the school’s general director in Vietnam, Cheng Sim Kok, had left for Singapore and the school’s account at Standard Chartered had been emptied.

RABIES ALERT The Animal Health Administration is urging better vaccination programmes for domestic pets after a new study found that 74 people had been killed by rabies in Vietnam so far this year. The survey found that most cases of fatal rabies came from the northern highlands, including 17 from Son La Province, 13 from Phu Tho, and 9 from Yen Bai. Officials said authorities had tracked and contained 268 rabid dogs, but they said there are still others free in at least 13 provinces. They said vaccinations for dogs and cats in poor and remote areas are often considered an unaffordable luxury.

F FINE FOR NOT TRANSFERRING V VEHICLE OWNERSHIP U Under a new decree, the owner of a vehicle who has failed to carry out v procedures for an ownership change p will be fined, but some lawyers propose w tthat such a fine be abolished as it is groundless. Foreigners, like others, need g proof of bike rental under new law p According a regulation that took eeffect on Nov. 10, police will penalise tthose who possess a vehicle that could have been sold, transferred or presented h tto them while procedures for change of ownership have yet to be completed. o The fine is VND2 million to VND4 million for owners of motorbikes and m V VND6 million to VND10 million for car owners. o

LAW AGAINST SEXUAL HARASSMENT IN VIETNAM

DRIVING CARS & MOTORBIKES TO BECOME MORE EXPENSIVE The Ho Chi Minh City administration has called on the People's Council to hike the license-plate registration fee for cars tenfold as a means to reduce the number of vehicles on the roads. It wants the the city legislature to increase the fee for cars fewer than 10 seats used for non-business purposes to VND20 million, saying the current low fee is causing a rapid increase in the number of private cars, which may overwhelm the local infrastructure. It also wants the fee on motorbikes — currently between VND500,000 and VND2 million, depending on the vehicle value — doubled. Ho Chi Minh City has more than 500,000 cars, nearly half of them private, and nearly six million motorbikes.

The International Labor Organization (ILO) has welcomed Vietnam’s amended labour code due to take effect next May, but said it does not go far enough and more should be done to prevent sexual harassment in the workplace. The amended Labor Code prohibits, for the first time in Vietnam, sexual harassment at the workplace. According to a recent report by the Ministry of Labor, War Invalids and Social Affairs and the ILO, most victims of sexual harassment are women aged between 18 and 30. But the culture and fear of losing jobs prevent many victims from complaining, it added. Nguyen Kim Lan, ILO national project coordinator on gender issues, pointed out a major shortcoming of the amended labour code: it fails to define the act of sexual harassment at the workplace. A recent case of sexual harassment that made it into the media at Soc Trang General Hospital in the Mekong Delta in January. A nurse accused the head of the hospital’s ENT ward of sexually harassing her while on duty, but the doctor insisted that it was not sexual abuse and he just “put his arm on her shoulder for fun.” He got away with a rebuke from his bosses.

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December 2012 Word | 25

December CALENDAR TUE

MON 31

WED

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Dec. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

THU

FRI

SAT THE 12TH ANNUAL SCHOLARSHIP AWARD CEREMONY. 8.30am to 11am at White Palace THE CONSULAR CLUB’S 19TH ANNUAL CHARITY BAZAAR. 10am to 3pm at White Palace SAIGON PUB CRAWL. 8pm at Blue Gecko KODE 9. 9pm at La Fenetre Soleil FUNKY CHICKEN. 4pm at Saigon Outcast (188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2)

CHILL’S GLAMOROUS & SEXY. 9pm at Chill NEW YEAR'S EVE at Seventeen Saloon

GBA MONTHLY MEETING. At New World

ZAN DOAN'S SOLO EXHIBITION. Until Dec. 7 at VinGallery

JAZZ CONCERT WITH SOPHIE ALOUR. 8pm at Idecaf. Call 3823 9968 for tickets

PECHAKUCHA NIGHT. 6.30pm at PEC VinGallery V G Vin LLADIES AD NIGHT. Free bottle for a group of 5 ladies. 9pm every Tue. at Lavish

ROMANTIC ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Mon. at La Habana ROCK & MOVIE NIGHT. 5pm to 9pm every Mon. at Hard Rock Café

EVOLUTION. From Dec. 8 at Craig Thomas Thom Gallery Galle

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm from Mon to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

18 8

AR HOUSE CINEMA: FILM SCREENING – THE LADY. 7.30pm at Snap SALSA DANCING @ La Fenetre Soleil every Wed.

AUSCHAM HCMC SUNDOWNERS. 6pm at Caravelle. Email events@auschamvn. org for info

MODELS AND BOTTLES. 9pm every Wed. at Sin Lounge

WINE GALA 2012. 6.30pm Dec. 6 & 7 at Windsor Plaza

HAPPY HOUR. 3pm to 6pm every day at BMV

SPICED UP LADIES NIGHT. 9pm every Thu. at Hard Rock Cafe

ITALIAN MOVIES @ Pendolasco, 7.15pm every other Wed.

SBA MEETING @ Swiss Chalet (54 Pasteur, Q1), every 2nd Thu. of the month.

MUSIC QUIZ NIGHT @ La Fenetre Soleil every Tue.

LIVE MUSIC WITH JURAM. 9pm every Wed. at Pacharan

HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon

LADIES NIGHT. 9pm every Tue. at Lush

PURE. 8pm every Wed. at Blanchy’s Tash

DJ MONSIEUR DOPE. 9.30pm at Lan Kwai Fong (52 Nguyen Trai, Q1)

CHRISTMAS NIGHT at Seventeen Saloon

LIVE ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana

ROOTS. 9pm every Tue. at Blanchy’s Tash

BLIND TEST. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Fenetre Soleil FABULOUS NIGHT OUT FOR MEN. Buy 1 get 1 free. 9pm every Tue. at Level 23 Nightdpot

26 | Word December 2012

EARLY BIRDS’ HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Sat. & 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana

STEAK & ALE NIGHT for VND250,000+. Every Wed. at Hog’s Breath

WTF MONDAY. 7pm every Mon. at Sin Lounge

TAPAS FIESTA & WINE through the night. 7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

RHYTHMS OF THE WORLD. 7am at Ben Thanh Theater (6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1)

ACOUSTIC LADY NIGHT. 8.30pm every Wed. at La Habana

THE DEUTSCHENTREFF. 6pm at Brotzeit (Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1)

FITNESS CLASSES @ The Boathouse, 8.30am every Mon., Wed. & Fri. Email info@cyril-and-you.com for info MARGARITA MADNESS @ Khoi Thom, 7pm every Wed.

LIVE ACOUSTIC. 8.30pm every Thu. at La Habana

DAILY HAPPY HOUR. From 4pm to 8pm every day at Saigon Saigon Bar, offering two-for-one deal SALSA CLASSES at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm. Every Thu. at La Habana

NEW 2 COURSE SET LUNCH for VND185,000. From Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

BOARD GAMES NIGHT. Every Thu. at Geisha THIRSTY THURSDAY NIGHT PUB QUIZ. 8pm every Thu. at Ruby Soho JAZZ NIGHT WITH MARIEDEL. 8.30pm every Thu. at La Fenetre Soleil

BBGV’S CHRISTMAS DINNER PARTY. 7pm at Caravelle EUROCHAM XMAS DANCE BLAST. 6pm at Sheraton. Email events-hcmc@ eurochamvn.org for info CHRISTMAS CABARET. 6.30pm at Sofitel. Visit www.hcmcchoir.com for info NORDCHAM CHRISTMAS PARTY. 6.30pm at Equatorial. Email contact@nordcham. com for info

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm every day at Pacharan

SUN 02

MISS SUMMER’S NIGHT CREAM. 5.30pm to 9pm Dec. 1 & 2 at Snap

BREAKFAST EVERYDAY & WEEKEND BRUNCH with new menu. 8am at Hog’s Breath HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm every day at Pacharan

LORETO VIETNAM’S CHRISTMAS CABARET. 6.30pm. Call 0914 812 024 for info

MUSIC NIGHT “PYOTR TCHAIKOVSKY”. 8.30pm at The Opera House. Call 3823 7419 for tickets

ROCK'N'ROLL & DRUM'N'BASS. 9pm at Xom Café (113 Dang Dung, Q1) (8/12) The Body Talks 2012. 8pm at The Opera House

I AM HIP HOP @ Velvet, 9pm every Fri.

RAINBOW HEART AWARD AT LOTTE CINEMA SOUTH SAIGON. Visit www.yxineff.com for info

16 FESTIVE THEME DINNER. 6pm every Sat. in Dec. at Saigon Café

HOUSE SPIRITS for VND20,000. 5pm to 7pm every Fri. at Phatty’s

SUNDAY PAELLAS & HAPPY HOUR. 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana

FRIDAY FIESTA. 9pm at La Habana

HAPPY HOUR. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

PERONI FRIDAY’S @ Vino, 4pm to 7pm every Fri. KINKY FRIDAYS. 9pm every Fri at Blanchy’s Tash

SMALL THINGS. From Dec. 8 at VinGallery

HAPPY HOUR. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

28 LUONG LUU BIEN SOLO EXHIBITION. From Dec. 6 to Dec. 29 at Craig Thomas Gallery

DJ NIGHTS @ Xu Xu, 10pm every Sat.

MIDNIGHT XPRESS. 11pm every Sat. at Last Call SABADO NIGHT. 9pm every Sat. at La Habana COCKTAIL MASTER CLASS WITH RICHIE FAWCETT @ Koh Thai, every Sat. Call 091 233 9138 for booking

FFREE RE SSAUSAGE A SIZZLE. SIZ Every Sun. Eve at Hog’s Breath Bre

RELAX ACOUSTIC. 8.30pm every Sun. at La Habana

DAILY HAPPY HOUR. From 4pm to 8pm every day at Saigon Saigon Bar, offering two-for-one deal HAPPY HOUR with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

OVER

SCENE

MUSIC FOR EVERYONE

FRENCH ROCK

EADJ hosted music and dancing at Le Fenetre Soleil for partygoers

Well-known, high-energy French rock outfit, GaBLé performed at the Conservatory of Ho Chi Minh City to a packed out crowd

LOL Gagsters Hung Le and Glenn Wool gave the audience something to laugh about at Saigon Comedy Night held at Hard Rock Café

PHOTOS BY NAM QUAN

4U The purpose built event space Q4 (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4) welcomed the city’s residents with free drinks and some live music

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

A REGAL PERFORMANCE Dragonfly productions brought to life Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s masterpiece The Little Prince to theatre-goers PHOTOS BY KYLE

Vine and Shri hosted a wine dinner with legendary Barossa winemaker Stuart Blackwell

3D The collective Midnight Circus held a party where dancers reveled into the third dimension

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

PHOTOS BY NAM QUAN

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS

28 | Word December 2012

WINE & DINE

Insider

TIME TO WAKE UP, SAIGON / PAINTING BY NUMBER / 2020 VISION

with each event and Zombie Walk hit 400 people at its peak.

INSIDER

TIME TO WAKE UP, SAIGON Ever thought that life here can get a touch monotonous? Do you feel like you’re not meeting enough new people from diﬀerent backgrounds? Desperate for some fun? Welcome to Wake Up Saigon, a loosely collected group of waker-uppers and body shakers who have made this city’s spaces into an urban playground. Photos by Nam Quan

t the end of October more than 400 people met up outside the Bitexco Financial Tower. Using Red Lounge Bar as their dressing room, they smothered themselves in ghoul and zombie make-up, and slipped into their zombie outfits in preparation for a Halloweeninspired Zombie Walk. The cluster of unlikely individuals then set off on a jaunt around the city, being silly, playing in the street, causing traffic jams and mobbing the steps of the Opera House. The response from the general public was overwhelming. Laughter, posing for photos, cheers and heaps of amusement. The most recent of a number of events organised by Wake Up Saigon, since their first public appearance in April in honour of

32 | Word December 2012

International Pillow Fighting Day, the group has staged an outdoor water gun battle, a scavenger hunt, an ongoing assassins event, Survive the Night and this month there is a Christmas bash in the works — Santarchy. We speak to two of their founders to learn more.

Julian Ajello Co-Founder What was the idea behind Wake Up Saigon? Who's organising it? What events have you held so far? How well have these events been attended? The mission of Wake Up Saigon is to change the default settings of society by encouraging silliness and play in public spaces. People are

often stuck in whatever roles society dictates they play, whether it be work or family, and as we get older we forget how to have fun simply, like we did when we were kids. My you run out of new things to do in Saigon. Drinking on Bui Vien, or anywhere else, gets old in a hurry. I also did it to help break down barriers and integrate the expat and local people. Wake Up Saigon is my idea, but it doesn't happen without the help of three to four key people who put a lot of enthusiasm into organising and managing the events we have. Fun is the only currency we have, so I'm lucky they're committed. The pillow fight, our first event, was just over 100 people. Attendance has gone up

Why do you think something like Wake Up Saigon is important for this city? Organizations like [Wake up Saigon] provide activities and fun you can't find in bars or night clubs, or amusement parks, and we do it without costing lots of money. Not only are we providing some novel fun on a somewhat regular basis, we're helping to bring people together as well. If there's a negative side to having harmless, silly fun without charging for it all while meeting new people and making friends, I haven't seen it yet. You say that the events you run help break down barriers, particularly between Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese. How does this happen? Why do you think there are barriers there in the first place? I think people in general have barriers. Even when y ou're safely in your own country or culture people have certain barriers for any number of reasons, even if it's just a case of being shy. Most people don't just walk up to a complete stranger and strike up a conversation. In this case we're adding the language and cultural barriers to the mix. Vietnamese people are often reserved, if not shy. Often they're really self-conscious about their English skills and fear embarrassment about not speaking well. What they don't realise is that most of us don't really care at

all, we're just happy to talk to them. On our side of things, we're far worse at speaking Vietnamese than the local people are at speaking English. It's a challenging language and we know we sound ridiculous. What we do is really simple. We stage events that break down these barriers. The best events are the ones that let people have fun in a way that lets us recapture that sense of being carefree and silly. It's a place that children inhabit 24/7, but adults rarely get to visit once we st art to take on real world responsibilities. We've had people of all ages at our events. You can't help but smile when you see a 60-year-old expat mixing it up in a pillow fight with twenty-something Vietnamese people. Once you pummel someone with a pillow or soak them with a water gun, being shy about talking to them becomes ridiculous. Once you’ve been beating someone with a pillow for 30 minutes, you’ve broken the ice.

Colin O’Keefe Co-Founder Julian and I were sitting in 18A having a beer on a Tuesday.I had known him for a few months and had b een playing dodgeballwith him for a while. He was talking about the Cacophony Society and that the World Pillow Fight Day was coming up soon. Saigon is such an exciting and expanding city and this sounded like a lot of fun. We started talking about

possible logistics and factors of getting together with a bunch of our friends and busting up some pillows... It seemed more than feasible.We got some friends together to scout out some places that would be fun, a bar that might become our home, and as many happy Saigon pillow warriors as possible. On Apr. 7 we streamed in to October 9th park in the backpacker zone(I know the date thing is screwy).A big crew was waiting when I drove down Pham Ngu Lao. I vaguely remember Julian shouting “go!” and for the nexthour there were pillows and shouts coming from every direction. We were a big crowd of happy people running around and sweating between the pond and the street. A few police and officialish guys came by to see what the commotion was about and laughed when they saw what was happening. It was a concern when we hatched the plan, but we had faith that a good bit of fun would make smiles and people would just have fun with it. We were right thanks to the good spirit of everyone involved. People from all different walks of life were having a great time with friends and strangers. Wake up Saigon had such a great kick-off event. Soon after we got together to blast eachother with water guns and then to Survive The Night. The scandalous Christmas Carol books are in the works and are getting ready for Santarchy...Got your Santa outfit?

December 2012 Word | 33

TALKING SHOP

Painting by Number If imitation is the sincerest form of ﬂattery, then the reproduction artists that line Bui Vien in District 1 must adore the likes of Van Gogh, Renoir and Picasso. James Pham takes a look into the business of reproductions. Photos by Adam Astley

mong the rows of shops selling fake bags, second-hand books and kitschy souvenirs in District 1’s backpacker area, there is a cluster of vividly colourful yet seemingly incongruous displays of easily recognisable works of art. This is the world of the reproduction artists. At The Sun Gallery (157 Bui Vien, Q1), half a dozen young artists are crammed into a small space, perched on low stools in front of large canvases. Brush in one hand, a photograph in the other, they are intently working on making exact replicas of famous paintings. Overseeing them is Vi, a cerebral, enigmatic man whose self-professed raison d’etre is “to search out beauty”. But can beauty really be found in copying the masterpieces of others? “Humans have a body and soul. This kind of painting feeds the body. It’s a business,” he says of the grueling hours of concentration required to replicate a painting satisfactorily. “But it’s also a paradox because just being around beautiful works of art feeds the soul.”

The Art of Replication The graduate of a four-year programme at the University of Fine Arts in Ho Chi Minh City, Vi spends 80 percent of his time replicating the works of artists such as Dali, Manet and Monet. The workshop takes on apprentices as well, requiring at least a year of training, “but that’s for the really passionate ones,” says Vy. “To start off, they copy artists who use lots of colour, but not so much detail, like Picasso. The more challenging paintings to re-create are those of still lifes and portraits with lots of detail, like those of Raphael and Da Vinci. Some artists are very hard to do well, like Van Gogh, because of his technique of layering paint and his use of space.” Granted, it takes appreciable skill to reproduce the pointillism of Seurat and the broken color of Monet, but for most artists like Vi, it leaves an aching creative void that

34 | Word December 2012

can’t be filled by reproductions. “That’s why I only work four hours a day,” he explains.“It’s not satisfying. The rest of my time I spend wandering the city, taking photographs and painting scenes from real life — people eating, sleeping and working. My goal is to open my own gallery, displaying original works by Vietnamese artists. At the moment, there isn’t enough display space for up and coming artists. I want the world to know that Vietnamese are great artists, not just good copiers. We need more opportunities to develop our craft. We’re like seeds. We need some nurturing in order to grow.”

“Humans have a body and soul. This kind of painting feeds the body. It’s a business” Vy recognises his part-time profession is a sometimes frustrating means to an end, a business focused on meeting the needs of the customer. The foreigners who buy the art are knowledgeable, he says, and many of them may have even seen the original in a museum somewhere. “So the reproduction has to be at least 80 percent in detail, colour and style. If a client wants me to paint a portrait of a person with four eyes and eight arms, I have to do it. A large painting may take more than 100 hours to complete. But I’ve never achieved the perfect reproduction because it’s not my own work.”

The Business of Art In Tung Lam Gallery (88 Nguyen Hue,

Q1), owner Nguyen Van Lam and his wife Loai have been in the business of selling reproductions for over 20 years. Their small shop, where a painting of The Simpsons is sandwiched between a Van Gogh and a reproduction Dali, houses dozens of paintings in every size, colour and style. Every inch of wall space is crammed with canvases, with more stacked along the floor. Unlike The Sun, though, there are no artists on site. “The paintings here are from 15 or more different artists, both experienced and new,” Lam says. “Some of them went to art school. Others had the craft passed down from their fathers. Artists will bring their paintings to show us and we’ll choose what we like. Or we may commission some [work] based on paintings we’ve seen on the internet. Some of the artists are poor, so we’ll supply the materials and pay them for their labour.” He points to a heavy-handed copy of Starry Night by Van Gogh. “Something like that might sell for VND800,000. The labour for the artist would be somewhere upwards of VND200,000. But it’s a tough business. Compared to five years ago, the number of tourists are about the same, but they’re buying 50 percent less. Still, reproductions of famous paintings sell better than originals.” When asked what drew them to this line of work, the answer is surprisingly mundane. “It’s just business,” he says. “We didn’t love art or even know much about art, but the clients have taught us a lot”. The husband and wife partnership have since learnt to form their own opinions on what’s beautiful or not. “Take Van Gogh. His art isn’t that pretty. [Works by other artists] are nicer. But it’s his story that draws people.” Lam’s wife, Loai, chimes in, “I like Dali. He’s not as popular as some of the other artists, but he’s interesting.” The one thing they do agree on, however, is their favourite artist. “We like whichever artist sells the most paintings.”

December 2012 Word | 35

COVER STORY

VINAVISION

20 36 | Word December 2012

In the past few years alone there were records broken in terms of rising temperatures and the world’s population. We’ve even experienced a landslide of new technology, ranging from high speed 3G wireless to the introduction of consumer-based electric vehicles. So what next? For our last issue of 2012, we decided to take a bold leap forward and make some educated guesses as to what we think is in store for Vietnam in the year 2020. So, we have covered as many areas of society specific to Vietnam as was humanly possible in 16 pages. Although we found it increasingly challenging to acquire any concrete projections for the year 2020, especially in terms of the economy and shifts in social norms, we were able to discover certain trends that led us to some satisfying conclusions. Right or wrong, here’s what we expect to see and why.

December 2012 Word | 37

married at all. There’s even a Vietnamese saying foretelling doom for home-leavers, Sinh nha ra that nghiep, which translates to “Leave home and become unemployed”. But will all that change by the year 2020? Our experts comprising of a real estate agent, a group of university students, and a psychologist weigh in.

VIETNAM

2020

FAILURE TO LAUNCH Will the new generation of Vietnamese forgo the tradition of nesting at home to live more independent lives in the future? The answer isn’t a simple yes or no as James Pham discovers. Photos by Adam Astley AT WHAT POINT DOES A YOUNG person officially transition into an adult? Five milestones often cited by sociologists are: completing school, leaving home, becoming financially independent, marrying and having a child. However, all too often, Vietnamese youths are bypassing the ‘leaving home’ stage altogether. While the age of maturity in Vietnam is 18, when one can officially vote and get an automobile licence, it is not uncommon for children, especially girls, to live at home until marriage and sometimes even after. This “failure to launch” syndrome

38 | Word December 2012

is certainly not solely a Vietnamese phenomenon. While terms coined for previous generations focused on chronology or significant events (for example, the Lost Generation of those who fought in World War I or the MTV Generation of the early 1980s amidst the rise of mass media), Generation Y (those now 20 to 34 years old) has been saddled with terms reflecting their unprecedented living arrangements. Young people who delay the transitions of marriage, mortgage and children have become known as the Peter Pan Generation (youths who refuse to grow up and take on their own financial responsibilities),

Boomerang Kids (those who have moved out but end up moving back in), the Sandwich Generation (young adults with dependent children who also need to take care of ageing parents) and the KIPPERS (Kids in Parents Pockets Eroding Retirement Savings). Vietnamese youths seem to have it even harder. In addition to global factors such as the worldwide economic crisis and the rising costs of higher education and housing, there just aren’t the same socially acceptable or economically possible reasons to move out as with their western counterparts: taking time off after school to travel, move in with a romantic partner or deciding not to get

THE REAL ESTATE AGENT “I definitely think there will be a trend of young people moving out earlier,” says Dieu, a sales manager for the Hong Ha Investment Corporation. “In my experience, 70 percent of 20 and 30-somethings buying or renting their own house have financial support from their families. But the future looks good for firsttime homebuyers. Interest rates have fallen by 3 to 6 percent compared to last year. Prices are coming down from the real estate boom in 2007 to 2008. And instead of building solely high-end apartment buildings, developers are starting to look at the low-to-middle end of the market, building more affordable residences farther outside the city. That, coupled with plans for six underground metro lines by 2020, means that young people, even without a lot of money, will be able to move out and commute.” THE MILLENNIALS Quoc, 20, a third year mathematics and computer science student, says, “My friends who live on their own do so because of university. But they’re always complaining. The dorms don’t allow cooking so they have to buy all their meals. Even toiletries are expensive because the shops know that they’re selling to captive students who don’t know how to bargain.” Khanh Ha, 20, a third year banking student adds, “It’s expensive to live on your own. Just a room costs VND2.5 million to VND3 million. Most of my friends have to share, three or four to a room. It’s not worth it if

you’re not making a lot of money.” Thien Long, a first year student at the Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology explains that it’s simply more comfortable at home. “Young people don’t have the skills to live on our own, like knowing how to manage money. We like the protection and convenience of living at home. When you have problems, you need your family. If you’re getting advice from people who are only one or two years older than you, that’s not good.” Quoc concurs. “My friends spend a huge amount of money on cell phone credit when they first move out. It’s lonely living alone.” Even the lure of freedom and independence isn’t enough for the average Vietnamese Gen Y-er. When asked if they knew of anyone who had moved out simply because they wanted to, they all shake their heads. “In Vietnam, you’d be considered weird,” says Thien Long. “But that may change by 2020,” adds Quoc. “Vietnam is becoming westernised. Lots of my friends speak half Vietnamese, half English, so I think that young Vietnamese will want to be more like their western counterparts who are financially independent.” Thien Long clarifies: “Young people may change, but I don’t think Vietnamese parents will. I don’t think parents will let their children move out. And even if we’re financially independent, we’ll still need emotional support from our families.” THE COUNSELLOR “There’s a kind of co-dependency between Vietnamese parents and children,” says Thy, a psychology lecturer and former counsellor for the Individual and Family Counseling Clinic. “Even when children do move out, they often stay close to home and regularly have meals with their parents. Not counting situations where young people are forced to move out, like for employment, it’s still rare

for young people to live on their own because of cultural norms (especially for girls), filial responsibility and convenience. With government salaries so low, and the desire of parents to help out, especially in raising grandkids, it’s classic co-dependency.” She adds: “The exceptions are young people who are financially independent and have supportive parents. Those who have experienced independence from study abroad are more likely to leave home. I think in the future, more and more young people will want to live on their own. But whether they’ll be able to or not is another issue. A lot depends on the parents and how engaged or immersed they are. When I observe children of foreign residents interacting with Vietnamese children in primary school, I can already see that they’re much more independent and confident in how they behave, speak, express themselves and control their emotions. Independence is something Vietnamese parents have yet to nurture in their children.”

"I think in the future, more and more young people will want to live on their own. But whether they’ll be able to or not is another issue. A lot depends on the parents and how engaged or immersed they are" December 2012 Word | 39

VIETNAM

2020

THE RISE OF THE DONG Bennett Davidson speaks to financial pundits to find out whether your cash will have more, or less, spending power in 2020. Photo by Nam Quan IN 2002, US$1 WAS EQUAL TO VND15,380. Over the last 10 years, the dong’s value has decreased by 35 percent to its current rate of VND20,800 to the dollar. With recent efforts to curtail rising prices and new reforms being implemented on an almost daily basis, everyone from residents to world leaders want to know: What does the future hold for the dong? There are myriad factors which will determine the fluctuation of the dong/ dollar exchange rate. While it is always fun to speculate on what the exchange rate will look like in 2020, the reality is that it’s almost impossible to project any further than a few years ahead. Even the most thorough economic reports won’t project past three or four years into the future, because it simply can’t be done with any degree of confidence. “Going beyond 2016, beyond three or four years is very, very difficult to forecast,” says Paul McLardie, a financial planner and partner with Total Wealth Management. “There are simply too many variables at play to say what will happen in eight to 10 years time.” Any attempt to understand the future, says McLardie, is a matter of examining the past. “If you look at Vietnamese fiscal policy in the last 12 months, you begin to see what kinds of decisions the authorities make, which will serve as an indicator for their future policies.” OUT OF THE BLACK One of the most prominent measures taken in the last 12 months has been a an attempt to control the unsanctioned buying and selling of currency. “Vietnam is cracking down on unauthorised trading in US dollars in an effort to bolster the country’s dwindling foreign reserves and confidence in the local currency,” points out Nguyen Pham Muoi, a contributor to The Wall Street Journal. An advantage of shutting down

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regulating such trade is increased oversight of the markets. With the clampdown, authorities gain more control of the pricing of service and commodities. Prior to this, “prices were going up and up, and people were expected to pay more and more for goods and services,” notes McLardie. “So it’s understandable that people would rather store their wealth in dollars or gold if the prices in dong are soaring.” However, if dollars and gold become harder to come by, everyone will increasingly be trading with the dong, which maintains stability and deters inflation. And the effects have been tangible: reliance on dollars has decreased, while trust in the banks has increased. “The government’s move is necessary because it helps the state bank to buy more dollars for state reserves,” says economist Le Dang Doanh. “It also boosts dong deposits in banks, which will help lower lending interest rates in the long term.” McLardie is also optimistic about the positive effects this has had, and could have on the future of the economy. “They’ve worked very hard to keep the exchange rates as they are,” he says. “Will it change in the next 12 months? Hopefully not. Hopefully it will stay the same, because we need some stability in the Vietnamese market.” THE GOLDEN RULE The gold market, which has always been a major player in the Vietnamese economy, is also changing. Historically, Vietnamese have typically trusted gold more than the banks. However, lately, confidence in the banks has been increasing. Ten years ago most of the banks were rife with problems. But the advent of recent reforms has rejuvenated confidence in the banking sector. Furthermore, expansion has played a role as well. “The growth of the retail sector [branches for personal banking] of the banks has been widespread throughout Vietnam, to the point that

most people have access to a bank now,” McLardie explains. “With the access comes growing reassurance for the customers as more and more people that they know use the banks.” Privately-held gold reserves are still widespread among the Vietnamese population, but with wealth shifting towards banks, confidence in the dong has had a marked increase. FUTURE HURDLES With any developing country, there are still many challenges to overcome before the dong becomes a truly stable currency. With the country making international headlines recently for all the wrong reasons, many are concerned about foreign investor confidence and the impact that will have on future exchange rates. Still, others remain hopeful. Chuong Ngo, an entrepreneur and consultant with Vietta, a boutique investment and advisory firm, recently purchased a coffee plantation which he intends to turn into the region’s first organic producer. “Now is the time to invest, actually,” says Ngo. “Property and commodities are cheap, so who knows where the future is headed.”

“Going beyond 2016, beyond three or four years is very, very dicult to forecast” December 2012 Word | 41

VIETNAM

2020

A FAT FUTURe

Kids Say the Darndest Things

Childhood obesity is seen as far less unhealthy in Vietnam than it is in the west. So, what are the consequences for Vietnam’s biggest little kids? Charles Barnes finds out

"As of 2010, 33 percent of Vietnamese children were malnourished with most medical researchers suggesting that it will take until the year 2020 before malnutrition levels drop below 15 percent"

In a country where 30 people die daily on the roads, it is difficult to focus on the long-term health effects of something so insidiously fatal as obesity. Yet most Vietnamese health-care experts are expressing alarm at current trends in childhood obesity and how heavy Vietnam will be in 2020. Dr Tran Quoc Cuong, who works at The Clinical Nutrition Consultancy of The Ho Chi Minh City Nutrition Center, says that many Vietnamese parents don’t understand how sinister and multifaceted the effects of obesity are on children. He goes further to suggest that parents in Vietnam encourage their children to eat as much as they can because “gaining weight is a sign indicating that [their] children are in good health”. This may sound like obviously flawed thinking, but as recently as 1995 nearly half of all children in Vietnam were malnourished. As of 2010, 33 percent of Vietnamese children were malnourished with most medical researchers suggesting that it will take until the year 2020 before malnutrition levels drop below 15 percent. Having been raised in a period of relative need, modern Vietnamese parents have reacted by indulging their children’s every gustatory whim whenever possible. With the recent proliferation of fatty, salty and sugary foods on the Asian market, these unrestricted whims tend towards the unhealthy. Children are ill-equipped to make healthy decisions about their eating habits, and when given the authority to do so will consistently make bad decisions. These decisions, if unchecked, have terrible, far-reaching consequences. A GROWING PROBLEM Dr Cuong’s clinic sees 100 children every day for obesity-related issues. A mother recently took her six-year-old son to see a doctor because he was having trouble staying awake and studying — the kid

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weighed in at an astonishing 70kg. A nine-year-old boy was admitted last year weighing 110kg. The parents of these children are saddling their progeny with a lifetime of medical complications and a dramatically increased likelihood of an early death. In addition to difficulty getting around, breathing and having normal relationships, obese children have more difficulty learning than their svelte peers and have an increased propensity towards lung and heart-related diseases, metabolic disorders, diabetes and cancer. Dr Nghi, who works at Hoan My hospital, projects that diabetes in Vietnamese children will continue to increase in prevalence to the tune of 10 to 15 percent over the next three years. When asked about the causes of obesity in Vietnam, Dr Nghi responded that the problem is largely due to fast food and the excessive time children spend sitting and studying. Sally Bautovich, a registered nurse and clinic and operations manager at International SOS Clinic, also points a finger at fast food, but suggests two other interesting culprits: wealth and attention. “Obesity is most common amongst children from families with either high incomes or relatively few children,” she explains. Financial prosperity gives parents the resources to get their kids pizza, doughnuts, ice cream, cake, potato chips and whatever other foods they might desire, and with the Vietnamese government strongly urging parents to not have more than two children, parents are devoting a lot more time and effort doting on the one or two kids they have. If quick, decisive action isn’t taken, the future for a large portion of this country’s population is grim. While professionals we spoke to were unwilling to project what the obesity numbers would be like in the future, it is, for example, projected that by 2030, more than 50 percent of Americans will be obese. So, where will Vietnam go?

We asked two kids— Kevin (10) and Nhi (9) — who were born and raised in the city if they know what obesity is “What’s obese?” asks Kevin. “Well, when somebody’s not just a little fat, but very fat, like they have trouble getting around and walking up stairs and stuff.” “I just think it’s normal,” he responds. Nhi, the thinner of the two cuts in, “I don’t think anything.” “Do you want to be fat or obese?” They were asked. “NO!” they both sang out in unison. “I exercise and play soccer after school. I want to play soccer professionally in England.” says Kevin. “I don’t eat junk food, like stuff with a lot of fat or sweet stuff,” explains Nhi. Talking to the kids about current trends in obesity in Vietnam they were asked where they thought Vietnam would be in regards to obesity rates by the year 2020. Kevin answers first, “Things are always getting better here. I hope that students will study less and be able to exercise more at school. That would be awesome.” “I think,” Nhi pauses carefully, “people want to be healthy. So, in Vietnam, we’ll be healthy. We just aren’t used to fast foods and stuff. It’ll be dumb to eat at Pizza Hut in the future, so we won’t do it and we’ll all be really healthy. Less studying would be awesome, too.”

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VIETNAM

2020

VIETNAM TAKEs THE CUP Can this nation achieve the impossible and qualify for the World Cup in 2020? Derek Milroy chats to those in the know and finds some interesting predictions. Photos by Kyle Phanroy FABIO DOS SANTOS Born in Brazil, naturalised Vietnamese Goalkeeper, Binh Duong FC Vietnamese Football has improved 40 percent since I arrived here 11 years ago. It is now a proper standard of football rather than kung fu and karate kicks [laughs]. After participating and watching a lot of football I have to say that fitness has improved a lot. Before, Vietnamese players couldn’t play a whole game of 90 minutes. Now they can, and the performance has improved a lot, but there is so much more to do. I think the Vietnam Football Federation (VFF) has to get

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some help from other countries and solve the problems behind the scenes. I think all clubs that play in the V-League should have an under 19s or 17s club tournament, that follows the league. The best young players can learn from watching the professional players and then hopefully make the step up. That’s what happens in Brazil and other countries. In Vietnam, if half of the tennis courts were converted into football fields, it would help young people have somewhere to play and would create more of an interest. The football players in Vietnam start when they are sometimes 19 years old, it’s too late. In my opinion Vietnam will not qualify for the World Cup in 2020. I think their target is the Suzuki Cup and being the best in Southeast Asia.

DYLAN KERR English Coach, Vietnam national team

THACH BAO KHANH Vietnamese Former international winger, Hanoi T&T

I have only been in Vietnam for one year but I reckon the top flight is a very competitive league. We have a strong chance to win the AFF Cup, if on the day our players are focused and believe in their ability and have the mentality to win. Fitness is very important as is strength, and we have worked very hard on both of those areas in the short time we have had to prepare for Thailand and Indonesia. I have introduced new training methods and ideas, incorporating them into how the Vietnamese play, and so far the players have benefitted in games as we have been fitter, stronger and have contested each game for 90 plus minutes. I think Vietnam can be the best in Asia, because it has the right ingredients. It’s a good footballing country; they are very passionate about the game. It’s heading in the right direction.

I think the quality of Vietnamese football is better now than 10 years ago, because we now have the investment of private companies in Vietnamese football. We have good quality foreigner players in our league now and that has improved the standard. I think the national team will have some difficulties in the AFF Suzuki Cup. We need to overcome technical difficulties and to improve tactically. I think everything the VFF has been doing for Vietnamese football is necessary to improve the quality. There is a problem for kids having somewhere to play football as there are not enough football fields in Vietnam. The kids have to go to school all day and sometimes at night. There is also a lack of play areas for football in local communities, so we need to set up more football academies like Hoang Anh Gia Lai and send our younger players abroad for training. I believe Vietnamese football has a bright future. We have a chance to participate in the World Cup in 2020, but we have to take action now. At this time Vietnam’s national team should aim to be the best in Southeast Asia and kick on from there.

CHARLY LEPORC French Former executive director of Scavi Rocheteau Football Academy

LUCA DI PIETRO Italian A Fan

Vietnamese football is below average and I don’t fancy their chances for the AFF Cup. Considering it will be played away, I would not bet on Vietnam, which normally plays well at home with the fans’ backing, but are not as good elsewhere. I think that each V-League club should have a youth academy, but the problem is money. In Europe 70 percent of clubs’ revenue comes from TV rights, but this revenue share is way too small in Vietnam. Younger players have to play competitive football sooner. Van Quyet (Hanoi T&T) is one of the few exceptions of young players below 22 playing in the top flight. Most players have to wait until they are 24 to play in the nation’s top division and the big problem, I think, is that in most top clubs the key positions are being taken by foreigners instead of Vietnamese. The playmaker, center back and striker are normally strong tall African players. This makes Vietnamese football the most boring I have ever seen. There is the long ball from defence to the strong striker. By trying it 100 times in one game, it may work and finish with one goal — this is not a football style that is suited for fast, agile players such as Asians. 80 percent of Vietnamese coaches have been coaching the same way for more than 20 years. Competition from [a] very young [age] is the key to improvement. Vietnam can qualify for the World Cup, but 2020 is too early.

Vietnamese soccer still has to grow a lot. I see the passion in the players and some talent, but their technique is not good enough to compete with European and South American teams. Certainly within Southeast Asia, Vietnam can compete and overcome any team, but Vietnamese teams, and especially the football officials, should invest more in young talent, cultivating young players to help them grow professionally and technically, like the big teams from my home country. It is a long-term investment, but it certainly will give good results. The standard of living of the people in Vietnam is growing and there is more chance for people to spend time on their passions such as sports. The most advanced countries are normally the strongest footballing nations. However, sometimes in countries like Argentina (or I hope in the future in Vietnam), there is a genius born like Maradona or Messi. The talent of those two guys cannot be coached or bought, it comes from God! To develop a footballing culture takes time and we must not forget that Vietnam is coming from a difficult time in its history. The big thing is team spirit and the will to win. I hope the Vietnamese national team qualifies for the World Cup soon, and maybe one day I will see an ItalyVietnam game.

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VIETNAM

2020

twin cities We create a timeline to find out if Ho Chi Minh City's skyline in 2020 will mirror that of the present Singapore

THU THIEM 2 BRIDGE (EST. 2015) VND2.3 trillion 852.5 m long Dragon-shaped design

HO CHI MINH CITY Population: 6,650,942 in 2008, by 2020 will rise to 16 - 17 million Area: 140 km² Skyscrapers: 51

SAIGON CENTER PHASE 2 (EST. 2015) 386 m 66 and 88 floor towers Retail Observation towers Hotel complex

MGM GRAND HO TRAM BEACH ( EST. 2013) 1,100 room integrated resort Golf course Casino VND93.7 trillion budget

SABECO WORLD TRADE CENTER (EST. 2013) Retail Convention hall 40 floors 170.5m

HO CHI MINH CITY METRO LINE 1 (EST. 2017) 17.1km long, 11 overhead stations US$2.2 billion 2020 passenger per day capacity: 620,000

LONG THANH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: STAGE ONE ( EST. 2020) 50km away, 50km2 area Two parallel runways Airbus A380 capability 20-25 million passengers per year VND140 trillion

THE HELIX BRIDGE (2010) 280m long 650 tonnes of duplex stainless steel 1000 tonnes of carbon steel Entire length of steel used is 2.25km SINGAPORE Population: 5,312,400 in city Area: 710.2 km² Skyscrapers: 189 First Skyscraper in Southeast Asia: The Cathay Building (1939)

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THE STAR PERFORMING ARTS CENTRE AND STAR VISTA (2012) 15 floors 5,000-seat auditorium 100 stores 62,000 sqm 33m high grand foyer

MARINA BAY SANDS RESORT (2011) VND136 trillion 2,561-room hotel Largest stand alone casino in the world One hectare sky terrace Longest elevated swimming pool in the world 93,000sqm retail space

ONE RAFFLES QUAY (2006) 396,240 sqm of office space 245m high Subterranean retail mall

SINGAPORE MASS RAPID TRANSIT (SINCE 1987) 102 stations 148.9 km of lines in operation Daily ridership: 2.4 million (2011)

CHANGI AIRPORT 46.5 million passengers in 2011 1,870,000 tonnes of freight in 2011 Three runways Capacity of 66 million passengers Airbus A380 capable Skytrain transport system

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THE EXPERT

THE WORD ON THE STREET

Huynh Thi Huyen “Nar” Hanh is an A&R rep at YAN TV, Vietnam’s pivotal music channel that has a solid feel for the health of the genre. Her job is to look to the future and predict the next hot act. Will V-Pop take over Asian pop music in 2020? It’s promising. It’s very hard to say that it will be huge like Gangnam Style… I actually don’t know if Gangnam Style is a model. But I can say V-Pop is getting there every day.

VIETNAM

2020

THE LEAP FROM K to V POP V-Pop is a catch-all musical genre currently busy being born or busy dying, depending on who’s willing to listen. Ed Weinberg finds out if Vietnam’s musical prowess will top the Asian charts in ten years. Photos by Charles Barnes WHETHER YOU LOVE IT, HATE IT or hate to love it, K-Pop is a musical movement that is dominating Asia and your television screens right now, and even making its way to the Wild Wild West with the help of Psy and his horse dance (god help them). However, listen closely and you’ll find that much of the music is similar to R&B, hip-hop, dance and techno tracks that are already out there, with only the distinct exception that the lyrics are often sung or rapped in Korean. Without a doubt, K-Pop’s success relies heavily on visuals (and less on talent), with music videos that are glittery, over-the-top spectacles featuring gorgeous, heavily made-

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up women, eyeliner-sporting-yet-somehowstill-beastly men and succinct choreographed dancing. And how do they get to this point? The singers and bands are produced and promoted following a pretty standard training formula, almost like how a farmer breeds and raises livestock, where young children and teenagers are often groomed and conditioned to dress, perform, act, speak and dance a specific way to live up to the label of ‘idol’. But there’s no denying that this formula works where K-Pop music factory turnouts such as Bi Rain, Big Bang, Super Junior, Girls’ Generation and many more perform at sold out stadiums across the region. Even Rolling Stone magazine is trying

to have a say in the genre with an article titled, The Top 10 K-Pop Groups Most Likely to Break in America. So, this begs the question: Can Vietnam, a country notorious for imitation and copying, use the same K-Pop equation, with some subtracting of course, to create the next movement in music called V-Pop? To find the answer we first spoke to an expert — Hanh, head of A&R at YAN TV — and then we asked the people that really matter and can actually make it happen, V-Pop listeners. Here are the results:

What is V-Pop doing to make this leap? Around four or five years ago, artist companies started getting professional studios, producers and composers. They keep searching for talent from reality shows, contests and Vietnam Idol where they can discover more talent among the [Vietnamese] people. The artist companies don’t just train people to sing well. They teach them how to compose music, produce their own songs and they don’t just have the ability to sing, they do everything related to music — they write lyrics, MC and they VJ. They are now very much multi-tasking artists, which is something that you need to develop visibility. Who are the artists that you’re watching at the moment? As far as soloists go, I’d name Dong Nhi and for the group I’d mention 365. Not HKT (HKT is a 3 member boy band whose initials are taken from their names — Hung, Kiet, and Ti)? No, no, no, no, no! [Laughs]. No, no, terrible! What are these artists doing differently from Vietnamese artists of the past? Dong Nhi composes almost all of her own songs. She does some drama, some movies. And she is a good MC onstage. 365 is a boy band, and they’re developing like K-Pop. They have a very good image, very good… uh, handsome, good-looking boys [laughs]. And they were trained very well in singing and dancing but in a very professional way. Their management company organised the group very well. It’s following the K-Pop formula. I would say that K-Pop is brighter and cleaner and maybe more modern. Because you know in Vietnam the most popular music is still the cheesy songs, the mushy songs, it’s very sleepy to listen to. To me and to you, it’s very crappy — I can die with a song. But luckily we will have people to change this.

We took an informal survey of 40 Sunday park hanger-outers, a crack team of the best and brightest Vietnamese high school students, and one 54-yearold man. It became apparent that Vietnamese music was apparently much better 20 or 30 years ago, so why has it fallen on hard times? One of the aforementioned best and brightest put this departure into a context which may mean something for the future of V-Pop. “When it comes to music,” 16-year-old music aficionado Flora begins, “our values have somehow faded away and instead [Vietnamese music] has been heavily influenced by other countries.” Ming, a 12-year-old classical guitar prodigy, had a different take, “The notes in the song don’t make you feel good. When you listen to a [good] song you hear it in your dream, and V-Pop you only play for fun.”

“No, never! Not even if it reaches 2030!” — Christine, 16

Will V- Pop be the most popular Asian music of choice by 2020?

“We know Vietnam has many talents, but the showbiz just focuses on scandal, how to be famous. I think one day, V-Pop could become out of this world.” — Phuong, 22

NO— 82.5% “Well, I’m Vietnamese but I hardly ever listen to it, and neither do many young Vietnamese people. There are three main factors V-Pop is missing: creativity, personality and talent. These drag us to listen to other ‘big music industry’ countries, which are full of those three. The US, UK or Asia’s biggest music industry, Korea, are our choices.” — Khanh, 18 “V-Pop is a disaster.” — Vy, 17

“Just a few young singers are really talented and have a good voice, the rest have just become famous because of advertisements / PR / scandals.” — Jenny, 25 “K-Pop is always going to be the most popular, unless V-Pop starts being as good.” — Nell, 23 MAYBE— 10% “Maybe. But the lyrics are so bad.” — Ngan, 20 “I don’t like the music, but I like the image.” — Huy, 16 “Probably, if there’s a giant evolution in this category.” — Duy, 15

YES— 7.5% “[When] everybody gets together, all the information will be shared.” — Tu, 54 “At least they sing in Vietnamese and that’s what I like about them.” — Kong, 13 “Yes.”(No further elaboration) — Dien, 20

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VIETNAM

2020

LEGALLY YOURS The future of freeloading and faking it may come to an end as Vietnam makes headway in protecting intellectual property. Words by Ed Weinberg. Photo by Charles Barnes IN EARLY OCTOBER, COCA-COLA AND Samsung pulled their advertising from Zing. vn, an entertainment portal that provides access to news, music and social networking services. The decision was in response to an article written by Associated Press, who described the website as “notorious for providing unlicensed downloads of western and local songs”. Taking such a bold stance may potentially have a rippling effect on how Vietnam handles future copyright infringements. “We highly respect and value intellectual property rights,” Samsung’s rhetoric went. “And stand against acts of infringement, such as the unauthorised copying and distribution of copyrighted material.” Days later VNG Corporation, the operator of Zing.vn, announced that it had reached an agreement with Universal Music Group, a major global music company, to allow users to pay fees on downloads. “With this agreement, Vietnamese listeners will have more chance to approach world-famous artists like Justin Bieber and Lady Gaga,” Nguyen Phi Hung, representative of Universal Music Vietnam, said of the deal. The situation has come a long way since 1986 when Vietnam took the first step to offer copyright protection to its nationals and foreign owners. Prior to that, copyright laws were non-existent. However, the changes enacted in the 1980s were unable to predict the explosion of the digital age and the internet phenomenon. On Nov. 1, 2012 a VND1,000 per song download policy was voluntarily put into effect on six websites that serve 23 million distinct users sites such as nhaccuatui.com. In a statement released to Word, NCT’s (NhacCuaTui’s corporate body) vice president Kha Nguyen Minh explained the decision: “NCT Corp support this new paid policy as we understand it’s time to define the Vietnamese music market.” TAKE MY MONEY, PLEASE “It’s a step in the right direction,” Adam Sitkoff, executive director of the American

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Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam says, as quoted by Bloomberg News. “In order to create a knowledge economy, Vietnam has to do better in enforcing intellectual property rights. It’s not just digital media that’s at question here. It’s the whole mindset of whether it’s OK to buy counterfeit goods, be it videos and music or shoes and shirts. It’s a mindset and it needs to change.” And it seems that those who hold that right are making sure minds are changing in Vietnam. Louis Vuitton won a milestone case against a shopkeeper selling fake Louis Vuitton bags at her kiosk in Saigon Square. The Supreme People’s Court in Ho Chi Minh City ordered Le Thi Hong to pay a fine of VND68 million and to publish an apology in local newspaper All well and good, but how tough will Vietnam get here? And where is this all going? Hien, a 29-year-old trainee lawyer explains: “In Vietnam today only five percent of people pay for music, while 85 percent never pay. And what about the leftover 10 percent? “They are the people like me. I don’t mind paying. But because the law is not clear, I’m not sure — should I pay or not pay? “But from now on I will pay. I’m happy to do that,” she continues. “And I should respect them, the people who wrote the songs. But before [the Nov. 1 paid download policy], they cannot blame me. I mean, okay, I pay whom? Who will take this money?” Well, let’s consider that somewhere around 90 percent of all software in this country is still pirated, according to the Business Software Alliance (compared to an average of 55 percent in the Asia Pacific region), all making it hard to answer Hien’s question. This is not helped by the cost of much of the software. Take the CS6 version of the Adobe Creative Suite. At VND48 million for the whole suite, even for users in Vietnam its purchase is prohibitive, all creating more reason to get the pirated version. It’s also still easier to buy bootlegged DVDs for less than a dollar than to find the almost non-existent retailers selling legitimate copies.

As for future legislation? “My boss said it’s impossible [to know what will happen]. No one can predict that. It’s really complicated in Vietnam.” So while Vietnam’s IP laws are starting to look strong on paper, which is an important step, there’s still a long way to go in implementing it. But with voluntarily efforts from users and providers, things are improving. So maybe soon we can all feel safe about writing that book or inventing that cool contraption in Vietnam without fear of our intellectual property being violated.

"Louis Vuitton won a milestone case against a shopkeeper selling fake Louis Vuitton bags at her kiosk in Saigon Square. The Supreme People’s Court in Ho Chi Minh City ordered Le Thi Hong to pay a fine of VND68 million and to publish an apology in local newspaper"

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DESTINATION

A JOURNEY TO THE LAND OF WHISPERS Seeking a unique travel experience, after much deliberation Chrystian Cohen took the train into Pyongyang to visit North Korea

orth Korea feels frozen in time. It lies somewhere between a 1930s Soviet Union and a futuristic vision of society, as imagined back in the 1970s. When asked about my experience it’s hard to find a relevant reference point, as the Hermit Kingdom, which the country has come to be known as, is unlike any place I have ever been, seen or experienced. Visiting the northern section of the Korean peninsula has been more than a trip — it’s been a plunge into a whole other reality, which outsiders were never really meant to see. I was one of the select few. Despite being allowed to film, most of my footage was taken through dirty, rainy bus windows, from the top of a deserted

50-storey hotel or with my camera concealed. In the same way every observation, every conclusion was based on blurry glances, on often incoherent stories from the tour guides and on the little glimmers in people’s eyes, because their mouths never opened to tell their stories. I’m good at reading eyes, but in a country where the national mythology is indistinguishable from reality, it is up to every person to read between the lines and to draw their own conclusions.

Preparation In the week prior to my trip, I kept receiving mysterious phone calls in the middle of the night. At one point, I heard breathing; another time, the other side just hung up. I rejected them as someone probably wanting to buy my number and not expecting a foreigner to answer. Soon enough, I found out it was in fact Korean officials, calling to confirm my travel plans. The overall process of arranging travel to Korea was surprisingly easy. The decision whether I should go, wasn’t. The only feasible way to enter the DPRK is on a guided tour with a group and little more than sending over a passport copy is actually required. But, I was concerned — would my visit be a selfish act? Would it add to hardship?

Looking to make my trip more meaningful, I worked out a deal: I was given the unusual permission to film my experience in exchange for producing a travel promo for the tour company. There are few places in the world previously unexplored by filmmakers. Getting the chance to capture Korea on video is what helped me make my final decision. That, and the realization that money spent on my travel is a mere fraction in comparison to the tax money funding conflicts and suffering elsewhere in the world.

Legends and Etiquette My visit to North Korea was a spiritual pilgrimage. It’s not just a country, it’s a selfconfident creed in late stages of formation that you’re suddenly thrust into and you feel paranoid about accidentally offending its believers. During the revolutionary struggle, young soldiers apparently sketched victorious slogans into trees. When a forest fire broke out, those same soldiers didn’t take refuge in the nearby stream, but instead gave their lives protecting the slogans praising their country’s founder. A few years ago, a Korean teenager achieved the status of a national hero. During heavy floods, she gave her life and drowned attempting to save the

The Reunification Monument, Pyongyang

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portraits of the beloved Dear Leaders. Kim Il Sung, the country’s founding father passed away nearly 20 years ago. But to Koreans, he is still the one running his country, and always will be. There’s no point asking anyone for an explanation of how that’s possible or in any way logical — it’s simply the way it is. Kim Jong Il’s birth has also been surrounded by mystery. That night, the skies opened up, a double rainbow appeared, winter suddenly ended and spring came. There was also a talking bird involved. Nowadays, hundreds of Koreans still visit his birthplace, dressed in dark uniforms as a sign of respect. Koreans love and value their leaders so much that they wouldn’t dare call them by name. A front page article in the Pyongyang Times (translated into English for Air Koryo, the infamous North Korean national airline) went on for a whole paragraph listing the official titles of Kim Jong Un. Every following article did the same. Reading the paper, I barely avoided committing a grave crime — I tried to fold it in half. In North Korea, newspapers shouldn’t ever be creased or thrown out, as the disrespect to a potential image of the Dear Leaders in such paper would be unforgivable. A confused tourist apparently once had to pay for his mistake of wrapping a tour guide’s gift in newspaper by writing an apology letter to the Dear Leader. Filming and photographing images or statues of the leaders is also restricted by proper etiquette. All pictures and video must be shot from a low angle point of view, without cutting off any of their parts. Absolutely no close-ups.

An Inward Journey A visit to North Korea is not only a matter of taking a train or a flight. For me it was very much a trip to some dark, yet strangely familiar memories; comforting yet painful feelings and thoughts that I didn’t want to face. I was not allowed to film the landscapes, the people, the street. Instead, in Chongjin, I was taken to a supposedly typical show, which pushed tears into my eyes. There, a group of kindergarteners sang, danced and performed acrobatic acts in synchronisation more perfectly than I’ve seen from professionals. They perfectly strummed guitar chords stretching over four frets and they played four-hand piano compositions without missing a note. My hands were shaking and my mind was running wild — yet here, I was encouraged to film. Being led through the strangely quiet

Clockwise from top left: Even far from the cities, there are barely any cars. People are always walking; When visiting the Samjiyon Grand Monument, Koreans dress in revolutionary uniforms and carry revolutionary flags as a sign of respect; Local kids were very curious about visitors in Chongjin. Unable to come closer, they popped their faces through the gates to get a better look — after all, most have never seen foreigners before A fishermen’s pier at the beach town of Wonson; A rare chance to meet the locals;

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With apparently 100,000 performers, Arirang is like a Hollywood blockbuster school, down a very specific path, passing the two nicely decorated and well-equipped rooms, with other areas blocked off, I wondered if it was all a facade. And I was boiling in anger inside because I felt helpless and didn’t know what to believe. I couldn’t help thinking: what if I had been born there? What would my life be like? What are my Korean peers like, nowadays? In a country under a Stalinist system, unchanged for now an eighth decade, with almost no knowledge of the outside world; unfamiliar with computers, Coca Cola or the Gangnam Style dance; convinced that Pyongyang, the DPRK capitol, is as good as it gets and that it is the cultural, technological, architectural, and every other -al centre of the world. How must they feel? Do they wonder about us, or do they accept and feel satisfied with the only reality they know?

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Back to the Future A visit to North Korea was a trip in time. Somewhat to the past and somewhat to the future. In a way it was a hallucinatory journey to a parallel reality in which I constantly had to remind myself that I am in fact in what people call the modern world, in the year 2012. I had to keep telling myself that while I was in my room, in a deserted hotel reminiscent of Kubrick’s The Shining, with national mythology blasting from an old, Soviet-era, black and white TV, that at the very same time, life was going on as usual worldwide. New science was being discovered, people were having moral discussions and my family and friends were somewhere out there, perhaps wondering about me. People were updating their Facebook profiles, sending tweets. And I was there, in a reality I still struggle

Heaven Lake seen from the top of Mt. Paektu — one of the key nature highlights of Korea to comprehend. Then came Arirang, the massive, Guinness World Record-winning dance and acrobatic extravaganza with a 100,000 performers. Impressive and at times emotional, it was like an Olympic opening ceremony, sometime in the Soviet era, in a huge stadium with no sponsor banners, with zero commercialism. Well, except for the apparently handmade posters, VND550,000 or more for some, sold in the lobby along with other overpriced and usually rather unattractive souvenirs.

People and Places North Korea is picturesque and contrary to popular belief, most of the country is open to tourism — as long as you plan ahead and your guide stays by you. Mount Paektu’s Heaven Lake is hidden among truly beautiful, desolate and rocky

landscapes, and is so blue I wondered if it, too, was propaganda. There, even the guides seemed more relaxed and I felt an elevated sense of human connection being able to take pictures with a few locals. There are the mysterious, distant villages surrounded by farmland, seemingly unchanged for nearly a century. There are waterfalls such as Rimjongsu or Ulim, where after long drives, visitors stop for an outdoor lunch. And the one image that stuck with me from the scenic drive to Chongjin were the old, mysterious factories, scattered all around the otherwise pristine land. Somewhere along all that is a forgotten hotel, where during my visit I showed a shy, local waitress video games on a fellow tourist’s tablet. Her excitement was probably comparable to the moment I got my first Nintendo years ago. Wonson could easily become the key

tourist highlight and a popular beach resort in Korea, if only the country opened up. There, after a stroll down a rickety pier, surrounded by fishermen and giggling children, visitors and locals alike can rest and enjoy all kinds of seafood, straight from the sea and grilled by local vendors. There’s an old, Japanese ship — a key landmark — its purpose, however, unclear, and there’s a beach where with some luck the locals will join for a game of morning volleyball. And then there’s Pyongyang — secretive, Orwellian and home to the elite, but an impressive city nonetheless. It is home to a major sports centre and an ice rink, an Olympic-sized stadium and swimming pool, a surprisingly popular, western-style bowling alley and the apparently not as popular only fast food restaurant in Korea. In my eyes, more important than places are

the Korean people. They stand as a symbol of human perseverance and even under the harshest circumstances are no different to any other people in the world. They still laugh and they still love. The difference is that they live in a drastically different reality. To me, it might be a dark, menacing place, but I realise that to learn I must respect. I did learn and I hope I taught something, too. If nothing else, I made a friend. I introduced him to John Lennon and I secretly left behind a memory card with music. I can only hope that one day, the barriers will disappear and we will be able to reconnect. Chrystian is a Polish-American filmmaker based in Hanoi. His TV documentary DPRK: The Land of Whispers is currently in post production and will be completed by the end of this year. You can learn more about the project at www. EtheriumSky.com.

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BUSINESS FEATURE

WHERE HAVE ALL THE PEOPLE GONE? The Crescent is supposed to be a new city centre. But two years on and this ambitious project is encountering more than just the everyday teething problems. Words Nick Ross. Photo by Kyle Phanroy

unchtime on a Sunday in Saigon South and The Crescent, despite its designation as a new city centre, is hardly teeming with people. Like New Cairo, built in the desert miles from one of the world’s greatest and oldest cities, it’s largely empty. While some of the businesses on the main drag are attracting customers, a greater number aren’t. Part of the problem is the sun. At midday, it’s unbearable. And the sidewalks, concrete constructions above, and non-concrete constructions by the lake, don’t provide adequate protection. All meaning that only three, well-shaded, well-cooled restaurants and cafes have attracted crowds — Hoang Yen, Boomarang and Soho. Not good for a whole strip of supposedly busy restaurants and bars. And certainly not a formula that makes this the best place to chill for a long, Sunday lunch. Or indeed any lunch. Fortunately, thanks to its indoor, airconditioned nirvana, The Crescent Mall

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fares better. Here there are some people. But a stroll through the five or so floors of this consumerist mecca, a gargantuan space filled by equally gargantuan brand names, and you encounter another problem. Vietnam may now be designated a middle-income country, but rather than attracting shoppers with deep wallets the product mix is prohibitive. There is a lack of shopping bags clutched in people’s hands and a lack of the dense crowds you would expect to amass on a Sunday. Bread Talk, Giant Supermarket and Coffee Bean may be doing just fine. So may the food court. But besides that, nobody is shopping. A recent survey by market research giant, Nielsen, reflects this issue. In the third quarter of 2012, Vietnam’s consumer confidence index dipped eight points. They add: “Nine out of ten (91 percent) Vietnamese are changing their spending habits to save more.” With this in mind, Gap, Diesel, Calvin Klein Jeans and its peers are offering weekend discounts. At Calvin Klein it’s 30 percent off

all jeans. But waist sizes, for men anyway, stop at 33, cutting off a lot of the large (no pun intended) number of foreigners living in the area. Next door, Gap hits 34 on some cuts, but not all. And to get chest sizes above 42 is a struggle. Even Diesel, that good-old, working man’s brand made good, is doing a 20 percent discount on all in-store products. But a quick look at one of the price tags and there seems to be one of those Monopolystyle, Community Chest banking errors. Over VND5 million for a shirt? Since when did Diesel become premium?

Build It and They Will Not Come Urban planners will dally with a range of models as to how you make an area into a city centre. But surely, whether it’s businessbased, like the city of London, or shoppingbased like certain parts of Singapore, or even a mix of the two, the first job of any new shopping mall or city centre-style area is to attract the crowds. In this respect, The

Crescent has yet to find a critical mass. According to the Phu My Hung Corporation, earlier this year they were luring 15,000 people on a weekend to the area. But if the average spend is VND15,000 or VND20,000 a head, it doesn’t amount to much. Add another factor — affluence. Saigon South is one of the wealthiest areas in town. Fifty percent of its population are not Vietnamese, and the majority of the suburb’s residents have money to travel. They frequent shopping hubs like Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong. They fly medium haul to Seoul, Mumbai, Shanghai or Tokyo, or long-haul to Europe, Australia and North America. Everywhere they travel they have access to those sought-after, object-ofdesire, international brands and sometimes at cheaper prices. So if you want to attract them, you need to provide something different and stand out from the crowd. The Crescent Mall certainly doesn’t do this — it’s no different from every other mall in this city. Which means it should be catering for those who can’t travel. Unfortunately, with an average, citywide monthly salary of around VND5 million, those who can’t travel are unable to spend VND5 million on a shirt.

Cairo have discovered, you just can’t have a city without people. And here, the people you do get just don’t seem to do as it says on the label — spend. But perhaps the strangest problem is one created by The Crescent itself. In the year or so since they opened up the The Crescent Mall, two restaurants have closed and four others, that amid all the wonder and fanfare were supposed to open their doors, never quite did. Which all suggests two things. Either these businesses just didn’t fit. Or, more importantly, the shopping mall with its food court and cafes stole away what few customers were already here, making it all the more difficult for other ventures to survive. As one business owner explains, in addition to general marketing issues, the main reason for not opening their restaurant in The Crescent was the lack of people. “Even after more than a year, there was not yet a solid crowd of customers coming to the area.” “We also felt that the overall concept just didn’t work,” they add. “It’s all very well being top-end and creating a luxury space. But if most of the visitors to the area can’t afford to eat there, it’s a bit out of place.”

We Need People

Make it Unique

As one security guard on The Crescent points out, another problem is that there just aren’t enough people living here. “They live up there,” he points, motioning at the apartments above The Crescent. “But they stay at home and eat indoors most of the time. They only eat in the restaurants from time to time.” He adds: “If this was District 1, it would be packed. But it’s not. There’s just no-one here.” It’s a moot point. As the pioneers of New

It is changing, but one of Saigon’s biggest shortcomings is its ability to be over-generic, for every coffee shop, nightclub, restaurant, or shopping mall to look like the next. As an area The Crescent doesn’t fit into this mould — its look, location, concept and design is truly unique. It’s not about being premium, a mistaken concept obsessed on by mistaken people. The people living in The Crescent area have the ability to buy premium overseas. The choice is better and the prices

more competitive. For the businesses to work here, like the environment in which they have chosen to try and thrive, they too should be unique. They need to attract both the local customers and also the weekenders coming in by motorbike who see The Crescent as a tourist attraction, somewhere to go. Let’s take the Crescent Mall. The French Connections, Gaps and Tommy Hilfigers of this world are a necessity. But how about something a little different, too? Local, affordable, unique brands — cheap fashion but in a more affordable environment. Then what about cleverly designed knick-knacks, mantelpiece holders, furniture, stationery items and more, but all at inexpensive prices? Go to Bangkok and you’ll find all of this, particularly away from the centre. Why not here? Then there is the need to truly cater for the people living and working in the area, to find that niche. As one disgruntled business owner points out, “The only place you can get a cold drink or a decent beer is at Boomarang.” They’re correct. Likewise, the only place doing tasty, quality Vietnamese cuisine is Hoang Yen, and the only venue doing premium steaks is El Gaucho. And even Soho Café remains pretty much the only café here doing proper Vietnamese iced coffee with breakfasts and lunches to match. Which all paints an interesting picture. There’s a supply and demand issue in The Crescent, but it’s one where without the right supply, the right type of businesses to attract the right type of customers, there just won’t be the demand. In unique circumstances and without the population at hand to provide the custom, the question is how this is achieved.

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OUT & ABOUT

LATTE SAFARI

Persuaded to do a taste test in one, caﬀeine-induced sitting, Julian Ajello tried 10 lattes in the space of a few hours to work out which café serves Saigon’s best latte. Photos by Charles Barnes

Spaniards on me. I didn’t have time to explain that I was on a quest. Next was L’Usine and their air conditioning. Picking out a table in the middle of the room I flipped through a magazine while impatiently tapping my foot. Thirty seconds seemed a long time for someone to take my order. “Latte,” I said firmly, and went back to not reading the magazine. I looked around and deduced that L’Usine is a scene for the want-to-beseen crowd. The boutique is eclectic and fun to peruse, but I couldn’t figure out what sort of people chose this cacophony of shoppers, socialites and iPad Samurai as a backdrop for doing schoolwork. On top of all this the music was too loud to ignore and too soft to hear the words. Who does that? Are you playing music or aren’t you? I could feel my pulse pick up a bit and I started to sweat as it became way too crowded all of a sudden. I made a beeline for Strata in the Bitexco Financial Tower, which I thought would provide the proper backdrop for feeling constricted. In theory, I still think my reasoning was sound, but a ride to the 50th floor in an elevator proved a miscalculation. It was either the slowest elevator on planet Earth, or the caffeine. I couldn’t be sure. Being fifty floors up and experiencing caffeine-induced anxiety produces a mild form of vertigo. Though the staff were friendly and accommodating, I could feel the sweat starting to win the battle with my clothes. Not wanting to stink up the joint, I made my getaway in stealth. I steeled myself for another 50-floor descent in a box and peeled out of the basement parking lot as fast as possible.

Meltdown I ducked into a bar for a couple of beers hoping it might take the edge off and slow my heart down a little. Two drafts and I

felt collected enough to continue on with my caffeine madness. Ciao Café was next. I thought it might offer a quiet respite. If not for the really loud Vietnamese techno music I think I might have found one. I sat in a corner of the café and rocked back and forth while plowing through my hugemistake-of-an-idea latte. I could tell the waiter was unnerved by my mannerisms, but I couldn’t summon enough English, let alone Vietnamese, to explain I was getting paid for this.

"I gulped it down and felt my retinas begin to wiggle. It was a new sensation I felt I could do without. I dropped some money on the table and rode one block to the next coffee shop" I don’t know if there’s a legal limit for driving under the influence of caffeine, but if there is I was eclipsing it by this point. It was absurd that I found myself pulling into Passio for another cup of joe made from Vietnam’s robusta beans. Sweating, hands trembling, I gulped it down and felt my retinas begin to wiggle. It was a new sensation I felt I could do without. I dropped some money on the table and rode one block to the next coffee shop. Gloria Jean’s has a reputation for good coffee, but I’m not sure they need to serve it

in such huge vats. I felt like I was staring at a convex version of Mt Everest. How in the world was I getting to the bottom of that mug? As quickly as possible as it turns out, and I don’t think it was the best strategy. It was the only one I could come up with, however. As I left I could feel the slightest palpitation in my chest. I thought it was one of those little category one heart attacks that people have but don’t notice because they’re so minor. Or it might have been the caffeine, I couldn’t be sure. I floated into Highlands Coffee on Lam Son Square and made sure that the waiter knew I needed water in addition to a latte. And I asked that he check back with me every 3 minutes just in case I started to experience cardiac arrest. It crossed my mind to call my health insurance company and ask my rep there, we’ll call him Shane, if caffeine overdoses are covered. Not wanting to know the answer I just soldiered on in ignorance. It took a while to pay the bill because my eyeballs refused to focus well enough to read the amount. I felt bad that I made my waiter read the total to me five times, but the sound of my heart pounding in my ears was getting in the way of productive communication. Mercifully, I reached The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, the last stop on my odyssey. I ordered up and went straight for the restroom that had a line four deep, naturally. I locked eyes with a young woman, we’ll call her Toniya, who shot me a smile. Despite sweating profusely, being unable to focus my vision fully, experiencing trembling hands, and hurtling towards a heart attack, I asked to join her. She happened to ask what I was doing. I explained the latte safari and the resulting effects of the caffeine and how I was going to be up for 72 hours. Toniya just cocked her head at me and asked, “Why not just order decaf?” Indeed.

THE LOW DOWN

Clockwise form top: Highlands Coffee, Ciao Bella, L'usine, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, Gloria Jeans & The Refinery

ate morning on a perfect Saturday, I set off to find the perfect café latte. Ciao Bella in District 1 was my first stop and had a small table by the glass doors available. Surrounded by French-speaking tourists toting their Lonely Planet guides I ordered up a latte to accompany my lunch consisting of Caesar salad and linguini with white clam sauce. The star of a latte, beans, roast, and grind notwithstanding, is the milk. Ciao Bella prepares their milk so that you can practically stand on it. When stirred into the coffee it grants it a texture and richness

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you can savour. I promised myself I would savour it on another visit as I had nine more locations to call on to taste their milkcovered concoctions. Just across Lam Son Square I sauntered into The Refinery. I plopped down into a soft chair and ordered my latte. The faintest detection of caffeine coursing through my veins began as I noticed that Spaniards surrounded me. The rapid-fire Spanish reminded me of Los Angeles. I sipped at first, then decided to sip a little faster, noticing I was behind schedule. Now restless, I settled the bill and moved next

door to Jaspa’s.

The Twitch I could feel a few stares from the Spaniards as I left. I bet they thought I was moving away from them and their very loud conversation. They couldn’t know I was acting with purpose. I resisted the urge to set them straight. My coffee arrived in a double-walled glass, which made it look less like coffee, but didn’t affect the caffeine content. As I finished I could feel my hands twitch ever so slightly. I left with what I’m sure were the eyes of the

CIAO BELLA 11, Dong Du, Q1 Café Vergano, VND55,000 Thick and frothy! You can sink your teeth into the milk if you like. It’s a wonderful latte. THE REFINERY 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Punto Italia, VND46,000 Less bite, but very light and creamy. Great for those who prefer a love tap to a slap in the face. JASPA’S WINE & GRILL 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Luciano, VND45,000 Smooth, it’s served with a

chocolate cookie and a modest bite. L’USINE 151/ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1 Illy, VND63,000 It was stiff and edgy with milk that middled between heavy and light. It had fine texture and a kick that isn’t for amateurs. STRATA 50th Floor, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Lavazza, VND104,000 Smooth, light, and creamy, it had a mellow taste with pleasant finish. You won’t go wrong here, but

you’re paying for the view. CIAO CAFÉ 74D Nguyen Hue, Q1 Lavazza, VND65,000 Beautiful presentation and a solid, but soft, punch to the mouth. Served with dark chocolate this was the best I tasted. PASSIO 53C Nguyen Du, Q1 Domestic Robusto, VND30,000 Classic Vietnamese style, it punches you right in the neck. If you want high octane and don’t mind the bitter flavour, this is your place.

GLORIA JEAN’S 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 GJC Arabica, VND70,000 Smooth and creamy finish, but not very exciting. HIGHLANDS COFFEE 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Highlands, VND49,000 Solid taste, texture, and a gentle finish. Served with biscotti! COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, VND75,000 Bland, bland, bland, and, oh yeah, bland. It was the last latte, though

LEISURE

Vegging Out When you live in a concrete jungle, becoming a city horticulturalist is a must. Michael Halloran meets Saigon’s urban gardeners. Photos by Adam Astley

he parks of Ho Chi Minh City are an antidote to the dust and noise of the streets, making it a pleasure to travel down those boulevards where the high tree canopy provides a shady understory. But for many people it’s not enough, they need to live in the company of plants.Maybe you are one of these people. Do you feel the impulse to create your own green world?

Meet your Local Horticulturalists “Basil, purple basil, mint, rosemary, thyme, oregano, sage, dill, fennel, many different chillies, many different tomatoes, lime, kaffir lime and many different salads,” lists Andreas Fagerkull as the edible plants he has grown in Vietnam. “My doctor told me to get a hobby that would make me relax a bit… But now this hobby of mine has grown into a business.” Andreas now sells his produce on Phu My Hung Neighbours (a

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Google group). For Jason Bednarz, his interest in horticulture wasn’t apparent at first. “When I was young I had to help my dad in the garden,” he says. “Years later I came to enjoy it. I now have a very small balcony with some plants. I installed some steel window boxes outside two large windows in my apartment.”

all kinds of pots, soils and nutrients.” Gino Shop is located down a lane off of Vo Thi Sau in District 3. As well as supplies, Gino Shop provides consultation services, classes and horticultural seminars. The director is Dr. Nguyen Thi Dao. “People like vegetables, a variety of trees, leafy greens and salads,” she says.“I like growing salad plants.”

Supplies and Suppliers

Where to Begin…

There are many places around the city where you can buy ornamental plants and cut flowers, but where does the urban gardener buy seeds and equipment? Jason has a few ideas. “In District 4 to District 7 [as you] pass over the bridge and on the right there are a number of plant shops,” he says. “The first one has the typical Vietnamese vegetable seeds. An even better place is a shop called Gino Shop. They have a larger selection and

Aiming to grow salad ingredients does seem like a good place to start. “Try what I did for my first garden,” advises Jason. “Look in the fridge and see what you’ve got: an old tomato,a dried up chilli or a bell pepper, some passion fruit. Just dry the seeds out for a few days, stick them in some soil, water and wait. Peppers and tomatoes will sprout quickly. Passion fruit will need to stay in moist soil for a while, maybe a month or more.” Andreas is self-deprecating about his first

gardening attempts. “I failed more times than I can remember, so I wish I did more research,” he says. He adds: “Don’t overwater or give too many nutrients to the plants. Start with some soft herbs (basil, mint, coriander, etc.) and tomatoes. And start small, you don’t need ten different plants at once. Start with two or three herbs and when you feel you have them growing good, add another.” For the beginner, Dr. Nguyen Thi Dao recommends “seven day growth seeds” such as broccoli sprouts. You can grow these in a window box. Lettuce is also good and will

grow in 20 to 25 days. Gino shop has a large variety of pots and trays as well as soil types, mixes and fertilizers, all organic. For sprouts she recommends a shallow tray (around 10cm deep), but for tomatoes and cucumbers, a 10-litre bucket is preferable. Jason is wary about growing tomatoes. “[They] are not the best to grow in an apartment setting in my experience, if you actually want fruit to harvest that is,” he explains. “They need big pots, direct sunlight, and in the end, most likely they will have thick tough skins which make them useless for salads. I did use a couple of kilos for

making some spaghetti sauce, though. I’ve been told tomatoes like to get totally dried out, then watered. They don’t like to be wet all the time, hence they’ll probably do better in the dry season.” For Jason, growing passion fruit vines is a real pleasure, “once they get going”, while chilli is a close second. “When you need some spice for your fish sauce, there is nothing easier than reaching out the window to get it.” For more information go to Gino Shop’s website: www.ginovn.comor visit them in person at 146/6A, Vo Thi Sau, Q3

THE SEVEN DAY GARDEN The Gino Shop way for starting and harvesting your own garden in seven days. 1) Choose some seeds: white carrot, water morning glory, sunflower, bean, sesame, rape, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, amaranth or red cabbage 2) Get some containers: a plastic tray with drainage or ceramic pots 3) Choose your soil: Gino Shop recommends Ginut brand compost. It is light and spongy, and retains water well.

4) PLANTING —Put the compost into the tray and dampen it with water. —Take a little compost out and set aside. —Flatten the surface. —Sow the seeds on the surface. —Cover the seeds thinly with the soil you previously removed. Spray it all lightly with water and use a hard board to cover the surface for two days. —After two to three days, the seeds will have sprouted. Move the sprouts into the sunshine or a place in direct artificial light. Avoid areas with direct rain. —Spray with a little water every day.

5) HARVESTING: After five to seven days the sprouts should be about 8 to 12cm high. They are now ready to harvest. Remove them gently from the soil and cut off the roots with scissors. Clean the sprouts with water and they are ready to use. With 30g of seeds you can harvest about 400g to 450g of sprouts, excluding the roots. 6) The next crop: The soil can be reused by turning it over and picking out all the roots. Add more compost, about 2cm to 3cm, into the old soil and start again.

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GENERATION V

Christmas Wish List It’s never easy to know what kids want for Christmas. So, we contacted the city’s international schools and asked them if their students could write letters for Santa Claus. Here is a selection Dear Santa,

Dear Santa,

How are you ? Hope you are keeping well. You must be busy preparing for Christmas and busy reading all of the Xmas letters. This year I want to ask a gift for someone else. Last week, I went to an orphanage with my parents in An Phu called Dieu Giac orphanage. There I met so many kids. I felt so sorry because they didn‛t have any toys to play with. I gave a little bit of my old toys but it wasn‛t enough. I wished I could give more. Now I‛m writing to you so that you can send them some gifts and bring joy for these kids.

My name is Victoria. I was born in Switzerland and I belong to a family who come from three countries — Sweden, Vietnam, Finland. When I was a baby I visited Santa Land in Finland. When it‛s Christmas I will feel really excited because if I go to Sweden I can see you and play in the snow. I love Christmas because it is my mum‛s birthday on the December 23rd. If my dream can come true at Christmas time I will wish for a blue, black, red, white, pink, gold and silver ninja that would listen to me and help me with my homework so my mum and dad can relax. I hope I will see you soon and make all my wishes come true.

With love, PS: If you have a spare Lego I don‛t mind having one for me…

Dear Santa Claus,

Dear Santa,

My name is Tiger and I'm 9 years old. I live in Ho Chi Minh City. Every year I write a letter to you. Last year I sent my letter through the post office. This year my school will send all the letters to you. Last year I told you that I wanted a nerf gun. Well, after I wrote your letter my dad bought a nerf gun for me. This year there is a new movie from Marvel Studios named The Avengers. In the movie is my favourite super hero of all time. His name is Captain America. So, I thought I'd wear a Captain America costume for next year. If you don't have enough money, your second option will be a 16GB black iPhone 4. The price in each store might be different. About US$200 then you can get it. The Captain America costume is size: S. I hope you have good health so you can give presents to children.

I want a smart thing because I‛ve been good every day or you can get me math stuff or a kitten because I like cats or a puppy. I really want some good things for Christmas. I‛d like a bicycle because I‛m very nice so that‛s why I want a perfect thing for Christmas. I can be nice forever and ever because I‛m very nice. I like presents because it‛s nice to have. Can you get me a cooking set?

I am grateful that you can get all of us gifts and I‛m happy with what I‛ve got, my family. I am filled with joy that you can give to all the people that work hard trying their hardest to help their family live. So I‛m asking you to help these people seek joy. That way I can see the streets full of joy and that way I can be happy myself. I‛m asking you this because when I see kids and people trying to sell things around streets it makes me sad.

— Tiger Nguyen, nine years old, International School Saigon Pearl

— Nina, Grade 2, The American School of Vietnam

— Tommy Lu, Grade 5, The American School of Vietnam

Dear Santa, Can I sleep at your Santa house? Can I ride your sleigh with Rudolph? Santa! Can I be your elf please? I am a good girl because I share my toys with everyone.

— Thu Anh, Age 5, Saigon Kids

— Victoria, Year 3, British International School

— Suraan, Year 5, ACG

Dear Santa Claus,

Dear Santa,

Some people told me, you are not real?! That‛s a pity. I like you and when I was a little boy you were there for me. That was fantastic, you had so many presents for me. This year for Christmas I‛d like a lego technicoffroader and a FIFA 13 playstation 3. Maybe you can talk to my parents and convince them? Thanks for your help!

Can you go to eat ice-cream with me? I like vanilla best! And Santa can you turn me into a mermaid and a fairy please. I'm a good girl because I help my mum to take care of Sam. Sam is my baby brother. See you at Christmas!

— Minh Thuong, Age 5, Saigon Kids

— Daniel, Team 3/4, German International School

Dear Santa,

Please can I have a telescope for Christmas because I can look at the stars? Also, can I turn to a ghost because I want to be invisible.

I would like a drum. I am a good boy because when my brother was lazy I helped him. Merry Christmas Santa.

— Jack, Year 2, British International School

— Louie Harvey, Year 1, ACG

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D De December cemb ce mber er 2012 201 012 Wo Word W ord rd | 65 5

Dress, VND1.4 million | Bag, VND3.5 million | Both by CocoonD

The

Giftof Giving

Don't know what to buy your significant other for Christmas this year? Here are some tips from Santa to bring some festive cheer

66 | Word December 2012

December 2012 Word | 67

Dress, VND1.37 million | Bag, VND2.9 million | Necklace, VND890,000 | All by Er Couture Copenhagen

Christmas garland , VND315,000 by Mekong Quilt

Dress, VND2.75 million | Bag, VND1.98 million | Both by Er Couture Copenhagen

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Dress, VND1.5 million | Bag, VND2.4 million | Both by CocoonD

Hanging bell, VND84,000 | Hanging heart, VND42,000 | Both by Meking Quilt

Christmas deers, small: VND210,000; big: VND315,000 by Mekong Quilt

Dress, VND1.5 million | Bag, VND3.7 million | Both by CocoonD Modelling by Laura Guender Photographed, make-up & hair by Francis Location: Ba Cay Choi (141 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan) CocoonD, 80D Xuan Thuy, Q2 Er Couture Copenhagen, 43 Thao Dien, Q2 Mekong Quilt, 37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1

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City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 074 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 082 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 092 / SOUND & VISION LISTINGS 110 / LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS 116 / LIFESTYLE LISTINGS 124 / GENERATION V LISTINGS 132 PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY

AD D I T I O NA L F E AT U R E S

Business Buff 080 Destination Zero 084 Travel Promos 090 Food Promos 108 In The Frame 110 Road Rules 112

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 074 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 074 BUSINESS CONSULTING 076 BUSINESS GROUPS 077 CONSUMER GIFTS 077 EVENT MANAGEMENT 077 EXPAT SERVICES 077 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 077 INSURANCE 078 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 078

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BUREAU VERITAS E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM 11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam A member firm of Deloitte Touche

KPMG

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 079 LAUNDRY 079 LEGAL SERVICES 079 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 079 MARKET RESEARCH 080 PUBLIC RELATIONS 080 RECRUITMENT & HR 080 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 081 SERVICED APARTMENTS 082

Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more. Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266 www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED 7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES 6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING ADMAKER Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1, Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group. Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

TMF GROUP

COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies. Wholly

owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM 13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING

GREY GROUP

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

ERS

OGILVY & MATHER

TIG T

3 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

PURPLE ASIA

113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

ASIAN

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PBB GRAPHIC STUDIO Tel: 0126 5669632 contact@pbb-studio.com www.pbb-studio.com Founded in 2002, with more than 10 years of experience in graphic design, PBB specialises in branding, interior graphics, signage, print design, POSM and web design. As of 2006, PBB has been based in Ho Chi Minh City operating as a graphic consultant for creative agencies, companies as well as private clients.

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PHIBIOUS

Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production. 10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn Long established, branding consultancy and marketing agency. From Vietnam to Australia, the red team create and shape unique brand personalities that add impact to international and local brands. The team regularly share industry trends, news and views at red.tm/blog.

RIVER ORCHID Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

TBWA\VIETNAM Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3824 5315 www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50 Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

TYA VIETNAM 3rd Floor, Lafayette Building, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3956 www.tya.com.vn Established 1982 in Japan, TYA is a strategic creative agency with a growing network across Asia Pacific. TYA uses this strength to match clients’ diverse business strategies. Their international team offers the TYA brand of strategic creative that strives to satisfy clients' business objectives to the fullest.

business XONE FM 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government,

business global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

DL TECHNOLOGIES 69A1 Tran Ke Xuong, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3551 2260 www.dltechnologies.com.au DL Technologies provide premium integrated technology solutions with emphasis on local “on the ground” support from a highly skilled and continually trained international team. Services include background music systems, lighting management and control systems, security & access control systems, premium audio and video with automated controls, discreet audio and video, home theatre, iPadbased home control / audio video control systems, air-conditioning control and energy management systems.

ERNST & YOUNG 8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED 8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP

services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market research. Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

XAGE CONSULTANCY

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing. Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a longterm strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of researchbased best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

76 | Word December 2012

NORDCHAM 12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/5 Pham Viet Chanh, Ward 19, Binh Thanh www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a non-governmental, non-political, non-profit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

CONSUMER GIFTS AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD. 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com www.ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

EVENT MANAGEMENT EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 www.evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to

plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the needed magic to make any event memorable.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services. Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

MR BOUNCY INFLATABLE GAME HIRE 50/8 Hoa Binh, Q11, Tel: 0165 6392 507 www.mrbouncy.com.vn Mr Bouncy is an inflatable game hire company, offering great products hiring out a number of inflatables such as waterballs, bouncy castles and many more great items for parties and events.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD 268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan binh Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

PHOTO OI! Tel: 01269 502790 www.photooi.com Photo booth rental service that combines digital photography and instant photo printing using only top-of-the-line equipment and materials. Photo Oi! Sets up a booth at any event complete with backdrop and fun props that everyone can use.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a

place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916 www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross– cultural and business awareness training.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news. Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

CREATION International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 6291 7553 A real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sales, leasings, rentals, free brokerage and aftersales service.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707 www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising

December 2012 Word | 77

business in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

EASY SAIGON www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

HOUSINGINTERACTIVE Tel: 6255 6774 www.housinginteractive.com HousingInteractive offers an easy-touse, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website allows users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time. Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

Real value in a changing world

JONES LANG LASALLE VIETNAM 26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam. Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

KNIGHT FRANK

THE NEST

IF CONSULTING

VINACAPITAL

for types of materials and documents.

Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 6777 www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale. Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

1A Me Linh Square, Q1 Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

VUS

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM)

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

PLATINUM1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD. Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

SNAP www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam. Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE Tel: 3825 8416 www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits. Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

PRUDENTIAL Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL 1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP

SPOT 18/34b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 955 877, www.spotvietnam.com Native English speakers specialising in rentals and tenancy management. Spot offers quick and easy complimentary services from start to close.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM Lau 8, River View Tower, Thai Van Lung,Q 1 Tel: 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates. Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities. Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash–flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING 26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM 28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM 51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492 www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese lessons, including extracurricular activities during the holidays.

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session. Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED) 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts

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189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

LAUNDRY COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4, Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MICKEY LAUNDRY 203 Bui Vien, District 1 29 Hung Gia 4 St, Q7 F4 Luong Dinh Cua, Q2, Tel: 2244 4466 Now in three convenient locations, Saigon’s leading laundry does wash and fold, dry-cleaning and ironing, along with a range of specialised services including spot removal, colour dyeing, tailoring, repairs, leather cleaning and business shirt service. Free pickup and delivery.

MR CLEAN 16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1, Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm to receive a foreign law company license to operate in Vietnam, Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vietnamese context on all areas of business and commerce to leading global and local companies investing and operating in Vietnam. Ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising

in this jurisdiction. Monthly newsletter available by email.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860 www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRAINBOX VIETNAM 5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405 www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

EMBERS ASIA 4th floor, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of

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business

BUSINESS

BUFF

skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

ECONOMICS OF BANK ROBBERY I RECENTLY WATCHED A MOVIE, The Great Bookie Robbery, where in 1976 thieves got away with stealing an estimated VND1.9 trillion (at 2011 value). It got me thinking that there is something deep down in most men that is thoroughly intoxicated by the thought of being involved in a successful heist. But how lucrative is a career in the balaclava and shotgun industry? A 2012 report in Significance, the journal of Britain's Royal Statistical Society and the American Statistical Association, provides the first “independent econometric analysis” of bank heists, using data from the FBI and British Bankers' Association. It turns out your grandmother was right — a life of crime does not pay. Of the 5,500 bank robberies in the USA in 2010, the average haul was VND157 million (US$7,500). Of these, 26 percent involved firearms and among the bank robbers there were 13 fatalities. The average heist involved 1.6 people and 60 percent were carried out by a single person. Sounds a bit lonely with a poor risk to profit ratio. OVER THE POND In the UK the profits are slightly more lucrative. However, it is a much smaller market — only 106 bank robberies were committed in 2007 with an average loot of VND665 million and a typical take home per thief per robbery of VND410 million. This

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equates to half a year’s income of the average, full-time employed Britain. So in general, the best you can expect per robbery is a few months’ worth of modest living. The really interesting stats are: that 33 percent of robberies yield nothing, the average number of successful heists before getting arrested and jailed is three, over 50 percent of thieves are thwarted by fast rising protective teller screens, and in 22 percent of successful robberies the money is eventually recovered by the authorities. Another interesting fact was that as you increased the number of people involved, the take increased by VND295 million per additional person. This, however, decreased the average take home per individual robber. As a profitable occupation, bank robbery leaves a lot to be desired and it seems robbers have learned this lesson. Bank robberies are on the decline, both in the UK and the US, and criminals have instead turned their sights on targets that seem more rewarding; security vans. Not that I want to ruin the movie, but while the money from the Great Bookie Robbery was never recovered, all the criminals involved died violent deaths by the end of the 1980s. Shane works in financial services; he welcomes your questions or comments at shane. dillon@t-wm.com

EPINION 11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

TNS VIETNAM

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM

105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries.

(formally Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MANDARIN MEDIA www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM

Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA)

MEKONG RESEARCH

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies. With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

NIELSEN CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a global information and measurement company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties. Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

OPUS VIETNAM RO

30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MASS GROUP

1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment. 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina. 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

NAVIGOS GROUP

39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 7900 www.robertwalters.com.vn Robert Walters Vietnam offers a highly professional and specialised recruitments service. With 47 offices in 23 countries, Robert Walters holds an established track record with Asia's leading institutions, from multinational corporations to smaller enterprises. The Vietnam office specialises in permanent jobs across these disciplines: Sales & Marketing, Technical Healthcare, Accountancy & Finance, Banking & Financial Services, Human Resources, IT, Supply Chain, Engineering and Oil & Gas Technical.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD. 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4., Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh ,Tel: 3840 4237 www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/ crisis management.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1 Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

RECRUITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM 8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

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business management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network. Also local, domestic and office moves. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4 Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay and range from VND11,825,000 to VND16,125,000 per month. This is inclusive of two gas cylinders, five big bottles of water per month, daily usage of water and parking, thrice-weekly apartment servicing, ADSL Internet, and access to the fitness centre.

CITYVIEW 12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 8888 www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon is the InterContinental Asiana Saigon

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Residences with 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area and is part of the brand-new Kumho Link Asiana Plaza, the city’s finest integrated food and beverage complex featuring commercial, residential and luxury shopping arcade.

DESTINATION LISTINGS

JASMINE COURT

DALAT 082 HANOI 083 AROUND HANOI 083 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 085 HCMC DELUXE 086 HCMC MID-RANGE 086 HCMC BUDGET 087 HOI AN & DA NANG 088 HUE & QUANG BINH 088 NHA TRANG 089 PHAN THIET & MUI NE 089

307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes. Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a fourfixture en suite with shower.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one–to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully– equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

ANA MANDARA VILLAS

CREDIT

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA CREDIT

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat, Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match.

BELOW VND630,000

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

PRICE RANGE

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS

COLUMNS DESTINATION ZERO 084 TRAVEL PROMOS 090

SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

CREDIT

$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms.

DREAMS HOTEL 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND500,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town. CREDIT

FRASER SUITES

$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, this no-frills budget hotel offers 12 basic but nicely decorated and clean guestrooms, all with free Wi-Fi. Rooms start at VND300,000. A coffee shop can be found on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre.

CREDIT

$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL GYM

CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

PHU QUOC 090 SAPA 091 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 091 TRAVEL SERVICES 091

DALAT PALACE

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

HANOI

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

DALAT

127 Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service. 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

destination

CREDIT

$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

CREDIT

$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969 www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) daily, replenished minibar and snack basket service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails. CREDIT

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL $ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots. CREDIT

HANOI HILTON

CREDIT

$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

CREDIT

$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

CREDIT

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid–range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar. The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique– style hotel offers quite a deal.

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

CREDIT

$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city. They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite. CREDIT

PULLMAN HOTEL DESTINATION $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0808 www.pullman-hanoi.com A recent refit and a change of management – this property is now run by the Accor group – have given this 250-room hotel the sparkle that it had once lost. Good quality deluxe rooms and suites, a cavernous but contemporary looking lobby, an excellent buffet and a la carte restaurant, and a sleek image that would be at home anywhere in the world, this business traveller-orientated property is also close enough to the Old Quarter to make it a great stopping off point for anyone wanting to explore Hanoi.

SOFITEL METROPOLE

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL CREDIT

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free Internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness centre with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relaxation lounge and VIP massage room.

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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DESTINATION

ZERO

destination

AIRLINES AIR ASIA www.airasia.com AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

BY SARAH TURNER

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

BALI: A TALE OF TWO TOWNS

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leisurely bare foot walk through the wash on our first day; the sunset Bintang beers with friends while sitting on plastic chairs slowly sinking into the sand; the amazing Italian meal at beachside La Lucciola; and lazing on beanbags, listening to a rock cover band at Crystal Palace.

Head Inland But there’s a lot more to Bali than beaches, and Ubud offers one such alternative. The popularity of 2006 novel, Eat, Pray, Love, in which Love takes place in Ubud, pushed this small town into the limelight. However, even before that, Ubud had gone past the stage of being a haven for backpackers, artists and bohemians, and had already begun to attract a wider array of visitors. Considered the cultural centre of Bali, it is not only famous for its arts and crafts but also its architectural sights and cultural events, such as nightly traditional dance performances. Stories I’d heard suggested that Ubud had lost that certain touch which made it special, being an over-crowded tourist hotspot. But I found relative peace along its streets and in its chilled out cafes. I also found a whole lot of shopping opportunities; if you’re looking for unique clothing or home decor, this is the place to be. It’s also the place to be if you like to eat. The dining options in Ubud surpass even those of Seminyak and range from what

$$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal. CREDIT

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK $ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

As we drove the 34km from Seminyak Beach to the town of Ubud, the boutique shops, restaurants and luxury resorts, morphed into villages, farmland, rivers and narrow winding roads. Then, as suddenly as they had disappeared, once again we were surrounded by the trappings of tourism. But despite some similarities, the two towns have unique souls. ali, a small Indonesian island next to Java, has been attracting tourists since the early 1900s and offers a wealth of natural and man-made attractions, along with a very warm welcome. Although many think of Bali as Kuta, the party beach town in the south of the island that attracts most of the holidaymakers, it has plenty more to offer. We explored two other popular destinations: Seminyak and Ubud. Seminyak village sits pretty on the west coast of the island, on the same long stretch of beach as Kuta and Legian, further south. But while Kuta is full of cheap clothes and souvenir stores, and is heaving with tourists, Seminyak has a classier vibe: boutique shops and enticing restaurants line its streets, funky bars can be found along the beach, and you can’t walk far without tripping up on the steps of a luxury villa or resort. Although much of the dining and shopping action is located along Jalan Oberoi — the so called ‘eat street’ — some real gems can be found by wandering around the quieter streets: Kreol Kitchen, for example, is a wonderfully welcoming and creatively decorated cafe selling the most delicious homemade cakes, and the food at Delicious Onion is beautifully cooked and presented. And of course there’s the beach. It may not be the archetypal tropical beach, being fringed with bars and hotels rather than palm trees, but my favourite moments in Seminyak are all thanks to that beach: the

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

is often considered Bali’s best babi galung restaurant, Ibu Oka, through to indulgent cakes and excellent coffee at Localista, delicious healthfood at Kafe and sushi with a twist at Toro Sushi Cafe. And did I mention the spas? No trip to Ubud is complete without at least one massage at one of the numerous spas in town. But if you have time, go for a more indulgent half-day package, or try out one of the out-of-town high-end spas like Mango Tree Spa, where some of the treatment rooms really are located in mango trees, or Maya Spa, overlooking the river. But as much appeal as the town itself holds, it’s the surrounding area that really puts the makes Ubud so worthy of note. The nearby villages are a delight to wander around — their narrow streets dotted with intricately carved temples and charming houses — and the countryside of rolling hills and valleys and those ubiquitous rice terraces provide picture postcard vistas. We walked down from our hotel into town, along the Campuhan Ridge, stopping along the way at small art shops and to take in the breath-taking views. One last piece of advice; don’t forget your camera. There are no direct flights to Bali from Vietnam. We flew Tiger Air to Singapore and then Air Asia to Bali, but flights are also available via Kuala Lumpur. The currency is the Indonesian Rupiah.

EVA AIRWAYS 4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488 www.evaair.com JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins. They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself. A great, classic experience.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

LA VIE VU LINH $ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bambooconstructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night. Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the

beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

HCMC INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

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$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: 3925 7777 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn A five-star luxury hotel with 334 rooms and suites, and 53 serviced apartments. Offers excellent services and facilities for both business and leisure travellers, including 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity grand ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool and gym, Japanese and Chinese restaurants, an all day dining restaurant, and 24-hours room service. Also provides city shuttles, airport transfers, city tours, currency exchange, limousine service, ticketing and mail services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON CREDIT

$$$$ Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Intercontinental Asiana Saigon is an exciting destination in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Personalised services await guests in each of the 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a stylish Presidential Suite. The hotel offers signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers. CREDIT

NEW WORLD HOTEL

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE $$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best– regarded Chinese restaurants in the city. CREDIT

REX HOTEL

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well. A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience. This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and CREDIT

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ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JUNGLE BEACH Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY

destination leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

THE AU CO, BHAYA CRUISES $$$$ Tel: 04 3933 4545 www.aucocruises.com The Au Co offers the first and only continuous three-day voyages in the Gulf of Tonkin. The first-class twin vessels feature state of the art design, each of them containing 32 spacious and luxury cabins, all with private balconies. The onboard cuisine follows a traditional concept and incorporates the five natural elements, with a relaxing jacuzzi and spa treatments and numerous exciting en-route activities.

WINDSOR PLAZA

BIKE RENTALS

MIA NHA TRANG Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial. Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches. $$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs. Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine. CREDIT

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY

CONTINENTAL

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL

MEKONG LODGE

Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

HCMC DELUXE

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic

Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT

views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

CHI’S CAFÉ 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter. NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up. SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

NORFOLK HOTEL

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$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers. Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3822 4479 www.novotel.com Novotel Saigon Centre features 247 contemporary rooms, an international buffet restaurant – The Square, a lobby lounge, a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including swimming pool, fitness, sauna and spa. With five meeting rooms and over 400m2 of space that can accommodate up to 350 persons, Novotel Saigon Centre provides expert support teams and facilities that will ensure successful business meetings and events. CREDIT

RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

SABENA HOTEL

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000, www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888, www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

HCMC MID-RANGE

HOTEL IBIS SAIGON SOUTH $$ 73 Hoang Van Thai, Phu My Hung, Tan Phu, Q7. Tel: 5410 1111 H7177-RE@accor.com www.ibishotel.com The first International three star hotel in Saigon, Ibis Hotel is within walking distance of global corporate offices, FV hospital, other medical centers and shopping malls. It features 140 stylishly designed rooms with timber floors, complimentary Wi-Fi internet access, a restaurant, bar and three meeting rooms. A free return Ibis scheduled shuttle bus is available from the hotel to major corporate offices as well as into the city center. The open restaurant serves a variety of pasta, grilled food and a touch of Asian cuisine prepared in front of you as you eat. There is something for everyone at affordable prices. There is also an option to create your own recipe from the items listed on the menu. Ibis Saigon South is located in front of Saigon Exhibition and Convention Centre (SECC) and is 15 minutes from the city centre. CREDIT

KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, P8, Phu Nhuan Tel: 8625 69966 www.alcovehotel.com.vn Opening their doors in July 2012, The Alcove is located just off Nguyen Van Troi , the thoroughfare connecting Tan Son Nhat International Airport to the city centre. Nestled in a charming and quiet neighbourhood, and in keeping with their name, The Alcove Library Hotel offers a sanctuary of deluxe accommodation, architectural elegance and timeless style. The hotel has an extensive library that offers a wide variety of fiction and nonfiction books for guests to borrow during their stay and guests can eat in the fifth floor restaurant or enjoy the outdoor terrace overlooking neighbouring rooftops.

HCMC BUDGET CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

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$ 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Though possessing only five rooms, Cam Ly’s hotel section comes very reasonably priced. A double room costs under VND400,000 per night while a large double room and a twin room are both priced at under VND700,000. With 24-hour security, all rooms come with cable television and ADSL Internet access. For cleanliness, comfort and safety, Cam Ly is one of the best no-frills options in the city. See our Business listings for an overview of Cam Ly’s studio apartments. DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take CREDIT

advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer. CREDIT

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA $ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer. CREDIT

HONG HOA $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access. CREDIT

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean CREDIT

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit. A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid–range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

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rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area.

HOI AN & DA NANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five–star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village. CREDIT

FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar. CREDIT

HUY HOANG 1 $ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool.

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INTERCONTINENTAL DANANG SUN PENINSULA RESORT $$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang Tel: 0511 393 8888, info@icdanang.com www.intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed InterContinental Danang is nestled within one of the region’s most exquisite locations. All 197 of the resort’s rooms, suites and beachfront villas are designed to take full advantage of their location and panoramic South China Sea views. Large terraces and shuttered windows elevate private living spaces that draw in the surrounding jungle and crystal bay, and add depth to the already large rooms that start from 70sqm.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG $$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort. The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion. CREDIT

views. The hotel offers all day dining at their brasserie as well as a Chinese restaurant and lobby bar and lounge. Conference facilities are available as is a private spa, treatment rooms, tennis court and fitness centre. The hotel offers complimentary shuttle to the city centre and Danang Beach.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000, www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

Cua Dai Beach, Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

HUE & QUANG BINH ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: 0543 695800 www.angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage with views of the shimmering East Sea. Providing a complete and elaborate vacation experience, from exceptional accommodation and entertaining activities to excellent dining options, the property is conceptualised in tribute to the rich culture and heritage of Vietnam. Traditional Vietnamese aesthetic and design elements can be found throughout the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

MERCURE DANANG

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: 0511 379 7777 www.mercure-danang.com Located on Green Island in the heart of Da Nang city, the Mercure Danang is only 10 minutes from the International Airport. Consisting of 272 modern and stylish rooms reflecting local Vietnamese culture, all rooms feature ocean or mountain

heeled and knowledgeable traveller, the five-star, all-pool villa resort is a destination in itself. Reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods, the main buildings and villas are built with integrated clay-tiled pitched roofs, open courtyards and wood rafter ceilings in the style of the traditional houses of Hue.

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: 0543 695888 www.banyantree.com/en/lang_co Built on a unique crescent bay offering privacy and unparalleled exclusivity, Banyan Tree Lang Co is the most luxurious edition of the resort and hotel collection in the Laguna Lang Co complex. Designed and conceptualised to attract the well-

HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

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$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

scenery that this country has to offer. Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town.

Service is both professional and friendly.

SUN SPA RESORT

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara– nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang), Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

LA RESIDENCE

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$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP $ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633, www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on eco-friendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal. The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences. CREDIT

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with CREDIT

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA $$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea. CREDIT

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

PHAN THIET & MUI NE CREDIT

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777, www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322, www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

DU PARC PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT $$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet, Tel: 062 3822 393 www.phanthietresorts.com This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view. CREDIT

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111, www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant. Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country. It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

SHADES APARTMENTS

COCO BEACH

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and

$$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237, www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection CREDIT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501, www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

Viet Nam CREDIT

$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670, www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa.

Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

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travel Promos LIFESTYLE RESORT DANANG This December, Lifestyle are offering a combination accommodation and dining experience. The prices range from VND5,345,000 per person for the Christmas package from Dec. 23 to Dec. 25 and VND6,048,000 per person for New Year’s Eve from Dec. 30 to Jan. 1, 2013. Celebrate with a two-night superior stay, a glass of sparkling wine and fruits on arrival, and get into the party spirit with a series of culinary delights and great entertainment till late. Both packages include round-trip airport transfers, a daily scheduled shuttle bus to Hoi An and free accommodation for two children under 12, sharing parents’ existing bedding. A buffet breakfast will be served until 12pm on New Year’s Day. Email reservations@lifestyleresort-danang.com MERCURE DANANG The property has announced its newly-opened spa on the 4th

floor, Karma Spa. The facility consists of eight standard rooms and three VIP rooms, which are equipped with a modern steam room and a Jacuzzi tub. Book a treatment appointment now and get a special discount of up to 50 percent. www.mercure-danang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG For the month of December, get a two-hour luxury massage for only VND1,190,000. The Body Herbal Compress will combine with the Facial Herbal Compress to balance your mind and body. Also included is a special Christmas gift. Christmas and New Year 2012: Gala dinner includes a special buffet — foie gras terrine, whole Spanish Serrano ham, lobster and live music in the lobby and Bellevue room. There is also Santa Claus giving gifts to children and a lucky draw for all guests with many valuable gifts. The price for the Christmas Gala dinner on Dec. 24 is VND1,050.000++/

See more at wordhcmc.com

person. And on New Year’s Eve it’s VND1,365,000++. www.novotel-nhatrang.com VAN CHAI THANH HOA If you’re looking to treat yourself or someone else for the holidays this year, tranquil Van Chai Resort in Thanh Hoa’s Sam Son beach has an ambitious hotel-restaurant-spa that could do the trick. With a stay of three nights for the price of two, discounts on food and beverage, and spa treatments, options abound. The offers run from Dec. 20 until Jan. 15. www.vanchai-vn.com

of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options.

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

VILLA ARIA MUI NE

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$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660, www.villaariamuine.com The newest boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Villa Aria Mui Ne provides warm service with only 22 spacious guestrooms and one suite. Using only natural amenities in every room for a luxury experience, the resort includes a nice pool overlooking the beachfront, an alfresco dining lounge serving authentic Phan Thiet cuisine and more.

PHU QUOC VINPEARL LUXURY DA NANG For the upcoming holidays, two-day packages (Dec. 23 to Dec. 25 and Dec. 30 to Jan. 1) are available from VND5,345,000, complete with round-trip airport transfers and a daily shuttle to Hoi An. A lavish breakfast is also included on New Year’s Day. www.vinpearlluxury-danang. com

BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 077 398 0998 www.beachclubvietnam.com A small and popular guesthouse located 15 minutes south of the airport offering simple yet well-appointed accommodation with rooms at VND630,000 and bungalows at VND840,000 per night. Features a beachside restaurant and includes free WIFI. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

BO RESORT $$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com, booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French– Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid– back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

VICTORIA SAPA

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522, www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO BINH AN VILLAGE

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$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere. Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconut-shaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA $$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City. The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation. Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools. CREDIT

HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. CREDIT

REX HOTEL

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$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel

still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage. CREDIT

TRAVEL SERVICES ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS 7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

ASIANATRAVEL MATE CO. LTD 113C Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3838 6678 92-94-96 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3825 0615 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel Mate Co. Ltd. is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, tour packages, and hotel & cruise reservations throughout Indochina, as well as daily departure tours in Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, known as Deluxe Group Tours. The company also operates three deluxe cruises in Ha Long Bay.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

COME & GO VIETNAM 195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh, Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

DALAT EASY RIDER 70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

EXOTISSIMO

S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523, www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia. AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

64 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113 pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service. Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL

www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies. With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italian-run, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc. CREDIT

LA VERANDA $$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988, contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully– designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a CREDIT

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out & about travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC 60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872, www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

FLY VIETNAM www.flyvietnam.com, booking@flyvietnam.com An online air ticket reservation and travel agent in Vietnam providing information, pricing, availability, and booking facilities for domestic and international air travel, railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals. Also organises travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

KIM TRAVEL 270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

ONE WORLD 28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

TERRAVERDE 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 092 CAFES 094 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 096 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 097 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 098 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 098 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 105 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 106

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am. Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay fivestar prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

ALLEZ BOO

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboostyle décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings. Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the late-night party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

AMERICA DISCOTHEQUE TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@tutrangtravel.com. www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure. com for more details.

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RESTAURANTS SOUTHEAST ASIAN 106 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 107 COLUMNS FOOD PROMOS 108

club also possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

APOCALYPSE NOW MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music. Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

BLUE GECKO

AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian. The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby. Also shows the Premier League. One of the longest running watering holes in town.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

TU TRANG TRAVEL

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown, this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York. Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

BOSTON SPORTS BAR LIVE MUSIC DJ

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular,

out & about bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere. Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555, www.sofitel.com 7am to 1am Composed of The Conservatory, a daylight-drenched loft area, The Salon, a plush living room with baroque and exotic accents, The Cigar Room and The Library, with its sleek champagne tasting counter, the Boudoir Lounge is a haven for executives and lounge adepts alike. Live International DJs perform Fridays and Saturdays. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0907 502951 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet. It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

CRAZY BUFFALO

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

DECIBEL LOUNGE ECLECTIC LOUNGE BAR 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 6271 0115 www.decibel.vn 7am to 12am An eclectic atmosphere that combines many different flavours, deciBel is open to anyone looking for something different. Situated in the centre of Saigon in an old house, the lounge holds a range of music and artistic events with friendly service and reasonable prices. Food is also available as well as a roster of local and international artists playing live acoustic music and spinning away on the decks. Cocktail happy hour is from 5pm until 7pm every day and Wednesday is international movie night.

FUSE

décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

GOSSIP HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners. A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitusinducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the two-tiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS 28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

ICE BLUE

EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so–regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

LA HABANA

LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

LUSH

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

O BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped

bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-diefor zesty beef roll-ups. Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PHATTY’S

46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere. Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

PURPLE JADE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Purple Jade is a great place to catch up with friends or business partners or simply just to relax and enjoy great drinks. If you find yourself being overly particular about your choice of tipple, pull yourself together and ask the bartender for a cold beer with a shot of good liquor on the side.

QING

WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor

CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

LAVISH

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy

seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LE PUB

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out & about

with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back. An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

RUBY SOHO

country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

THE DRUNKEN DUCK

LOUNGE BAR S52-1, Pham Van Nghi, Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5410 6039 www.rubysohosaigon.wordpress.com 10am to 1am A French-inspired spacious (owned by French animation designers), cozy lounge bar and restaurant with two levels offering a menu that includes a classic French rabbit dish, and western food with a French touch, plus a set lunch menu every day from 11am until 2pm for VND95,000. The happy hour on beers and cocktails is from 3pm until 7pm every day of the week.

SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

THE LIBRARY

17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home–style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SLATE 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semiprivate sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the

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Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The Library recaptures the romance of a bygone era, offering a sophisticated all-day snack menu of exquisite delicacies devised by Executive Chef Rolando Manesco. From 2.30pm to 5pm, the Library’s nostalgic afternoon tea is served, comprising of an array of fresh-cut sandwiches, light bites and platters.

VASCO’S

EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends. A Veteran on the city’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s Bar and Lounge has a downstairs area situated in the open air in the popular Hai Ba Trung courtyard where cocktails and food are available. In contrast, the Blue Room Bar upstairs provides a more relaxing chill out area. Local and International DJs turn the tables from Thursday until Saturday, with live jazz on Wednesdays and the weekly, Thursday evening Ladies’ Night.

VELVET

DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy

as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

VIBE BILLARDS AND LOUNGE

102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

CAFES AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY) OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes. So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

AN’S INTERIOR CAFE VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and green-

tiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

BOBBY BREWER’S INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

CACOPHONY LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu.

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

GLORIA JEAN’S

CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ BAR 213 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 0902 514757 Up and coming hole-in-the-wall coffee spot tucked away at the end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an extensive menu of Italian and Vietnamese coffee, as well as a variety of ice blended drinks, iced dolce green mint latte and Italian sodas. Flavours range from violet and lavender to frozen cookie freeze, all at very affordable prices.

INTERNATIONAL 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 www.gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve-yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions — cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish Delight, mango chiller, Irish nut crème and more.

CITY GARDEN CAFE / CASUAL DINING 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4860 citygarden.sg@gmail.com 7am to 10pm daily City Garden is somewhat of a rarity in this city. Built in a sea of bamboo, this cozy open-air, non air-con cafe offers a casual and Mediterranean-influenced menu with a creative range of reasonably priced Panini starting from VND50,000, Italian latte from VND40,000 and cocktails from VND55,000. Good music and comfortable seating round up the mix.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825 www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends. Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbucks-like work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

I’M YOURS MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

KITA COFFEE INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistrostyle and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and

CENTRO ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1, Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains. Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

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out & about pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own. Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare. Live music on the weekends.

L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s French-style wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

OPERATION: TEAROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 www.operationteavietnam.com 8am-8pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-5pm (Sat-Sun) A quiet and hidden little tearoom located on the ground floor of a yoga studio and not far from the city centre. A wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond marks the entrance to this quaint, open-air tearoom. Serving a line of high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and Vietnam, drinks start at VND35,000. Tea and teaware is also available for home use and as gifts.

PETITE NOTE MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping

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out & about round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American. Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

STELLA CAFFE

of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

in a laid-back atmosphere, Gourmet’s Delight Roast Kitchen claims to give guests a bona fide experience of Hong Kong food in the heart of Saigon. Check out the reasonably priced weekend buffet.

UP CAFE

TAN HAI VAN

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport. With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET HU TIEU MI ANH KY

ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well as an additional dining area upstairs. Although, the service is questionable.

MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

THI CAFÉ

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this slightly retro, bookish but loungestyle Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a pan-Asian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area.

TRUNG NGUYEN 50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the everexpanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

MID-RANGE GOURMET’S DELIGHT ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3521 8181 www.gourmetsdelight.com.vn 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Hong Kong casual dining restaurant Gourmet’s Delight Roast Kitchen is the first of its kind in Saigon and is now open to Cantonese cuisine lovers. Serving authentic barbeque and traditional Cantonese dishes

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best– known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

MID TO TOP DYNASTY CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

KABIN CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

YU CHU

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ)

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The restaurant marries contemporary style, stylish surroundings and culinary spectacle with authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. As diners look on, the skillful chefs prepare hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within the open, impeccably designed show kitchen.

FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two. Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID-RANGE LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, family-friendly French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

LE JARDIN 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf. Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe. Booking advised.

MID TO TOP LA FOURCHETTE PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, twostorey eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

TY COZ CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

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out & about

DELIVERY BEN’S STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare BURGER OI Tel: 3826 5426 www.burgeroi.com Burgers, fries, onion rings and side orders CHEZ GUIDO Tel: 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches DA VINCI’S Tel: 3943 4982 www.davincisvietnam.com Pizzas, pastas, subs and salads DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants KFC Tel: 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides LOTTERIA Tel: 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers SCOOZI Tel: 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants ZIPANG Tel: 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm.com for menu

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TANDOOR

TOP-END

MID-RANGE

LA CAMARGUE

BABA’S KITCHEN

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this long-running white tablecloth Saigon mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent. From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

LA CUISINE

GANESH

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555, www.sofitel.com 11.30am to 2pm, and 6pm to 10pm A traditional French restaurant offering Mediterranean cuisine that’s well known for its quarterly Michelin star promotions and award winning pastry team. Seating 80 people, the restaurant exudes a southern Gallic atmosphere with its warm-toned tiled veranda, pastel coloured walls and ficus trees.

TROIS GOURMANDS CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET BOMBAY INDIAN INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meatbased mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

THE PUNJABI NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s selfmade tandoor oven. Excellent.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

INDUS INDIAN INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

LA TRATTORIA DEL BUON 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 01634 991625 The trattoria in Italy is a casual meeting place for friends and family reflecting the passion for food of the owners and chef. La Trattoria del Buon Vino is a new Italian restaurant in Saigon serving traditional Italian cuisine with a contemporary flair. Il Buon Vino ‘The Good Wine’ on the 3rd floor is a beautiful lounge with an extensive wine list for relaxing after work or with a romantic glass of wine.

MUMTAZ NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

PEACHES

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system. Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

LAM’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family

MARKET 39 Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Market 39 specialises in a boutique selection of appetisers, locally sourced and imported seafood, succulent steaks sizzling from the grill and hand-crafted noodles. Breads and pastries are prepared all day to ensure that every dish arrives on the table, fresh and full of flavour. .MID-RANGE

AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is TexMex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service. For a full list of restaurants check the website.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style

sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm (Mon-Fri), 6pm to 11pm (Sat) Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3822 1720 7.30am to 11pm A restobar that caters for any crowd and occasion. A fine dining room is located upstairs while the more casual bar area downstairs regularly shows live sport and hosts live music. The menu offers up a bevy of tasty western comfort food, a selection of Vietnamese fare and some of the best burgers in town.

of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

IMPERIAL RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russianrun venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

KITA RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled

cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

MOGAMBO PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars. A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannah-esque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

A Taste of Authenticity

PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays. A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyone-knowsyour-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu. Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

DOMINO'S PIZZA AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00

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www.pendolasco.vn

out & about

out & about REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SCOTT AND BINH'S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 www.bizuhotel.com/main/pages/sb-food. php 4pm to 11pm. Closed Monday American chef/owner Scott Marquis offers a creative international menu that he likes to call “comfort food with a twist”. Serving all homemade soups, salads, sharing plates, burgers, sandwiches, pastas, main courses and desserts, the restaurant also boasts a full bar, ice cold beer and an international wine list to complement your meal. Also has a daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm on ‘buy one get one free’ bottled beers and local spirits mixed drinks to complement the usual selection.

SNAP CAFE INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area. Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

SUBWAY 171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same

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choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere. Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

TRADERS

NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

WARDA MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

MID TO TOP ALIBI

INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

BEIRUT LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2188 A Lebanese restaurant and shisha lounge located in the downtown area Ho Chi Minh City, it encompasses a multiplefloored restaurant and extensive garden area. As the name suggests the menu has a Lebanese/Arabic theme and shisha with a variety of flavours are available on request.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious restrobar in An Phu on the banks of

Saigon's river. The menu offers seasonal dishes that include share plates, mains, classics and desserts along with a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu. Boat House caters for small to large functions, with three areas to choose from within an ideal private setting. Also provides occasional live music, mini festivals and various themed events.

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592, www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafrontstyle restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australianthemed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000).

BLU BAR & GRILL INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex. Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

BROTZEIT GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206, www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers wellknown German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

CHARNER CAFÉ EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

FIGARO

ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand. Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

HARD ROCK CAFÉ Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6291 7595 www.hardrockcafe.vn Established in Ho Chi Minh City in

2009, the 542sqm iconic café includes seating for 205, a bar, a live music area and a Rock Shop featuring Hard Rock’s rock n' roll inspired merchandise, including limited-edition pins and t-shirts, reflecting the spirit of the city. Memorabilia from Hard Rock’s collection covers the walls of the bar, and includes items from many of the world’s most beloved and recognisable musicians, as well as contemporary artists with local ties. The restaurant menu features burgers, signature smokehouse items and more and the bar menu has a range of speciality drinks.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.vn 8am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well known Australian chain mixes hearty pub grub such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere thanks to the big screen TVs regularly showing various sporting events. Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long bar space and grassy/patio outdoor terrace, drinks include a mainly new world wine list and various local and imported beers and spirits. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

KUMHO LINK AT KUMHO ASIANA PLAZA SAIGON +

39 Le Duan, Q1 www.kumholink.com.vn/en As Saigon’s one and only dedicated “Drinking and Dining destination”, Kumho Link has made a name for itself by being able to suit everyone’s food and drink desires: with quality Western, Hong Kong Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Singaporean, Thai and Vietnamese fare, along with great cocktails, imported German Beer and live music.

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three– course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily. The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the

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YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

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Cham Charm 13

Boomarang 12

El Gaucho 11

Korean Internationl School

Au Lac Do Brazil

Nguyen Phan chanh

Ha Huy Tap

Saigon South Internationl School

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list. +

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

VINO

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TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

SKEWERS

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WRAP & ROLL SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461

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TIB Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868

Saigon Exhibition Centre 06

Crescent Mall 04

Carl's Junior 03

Peaches 02

The Tavern 01

Q1 // Q4 Q1

SURASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare. THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day.

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SARPINO’S PIZZA GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480

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ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar.

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OHAN S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere. Prices are higher but so is quality.

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NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café.

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LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house.

u Ph Tan

195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonial-era villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastropub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas. Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

PASHA

LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes.

PIZZA INN 4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196

MY PLACE

JUJAEGEUM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier.

place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc. Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

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GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away.

DISTRICT 7

CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets.

Lawrence S.ting Building

CAFÉ TERRACE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178

Mini Golf Course and Swimming Pool

DISTRICT 7

Parkson Paragon Shopping Mall and Cinema

out & about

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315, www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE +

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of

this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofa-style seating and deep red upholstery. Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

ZANZBAR

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

TOP-END AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 7373 www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room.

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern

BLANCHY’S TASH JAPANESE / PERUVIAN FUSION 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 11am to 3am Located in a three-storey building in the centre of downtown Saigon – and named after French colonial-era mayor Rue Paul Blanchy — this popular high-end restobar pulls in both diners and late-night revellers thanks to its inventive Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu (designed by former Nobu chef Martin Brito), late opening hours and regular DJ sets. Check out their sashimi and tartares. Mouthwateringly good.

Cafe fare made with American flair

CHILL SKYBAR 26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372, www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering breath-taking views of the city, Chill consists of an upscale restaurant, posh sky bar and a sophisticated lounge. The music schedule offers everything from chill-out, R&B and sexy house to hip-hop. A “Sunset Happy Hour Special” runs Mondays through Thursdays from 5.30pm to 8:30pm. Make sure to dress well as Chill operates a no-shorts/no-sandals dress code policy.

CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties

169a De Tham

@ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

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out & about

AN PHU BLU BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. BOATHOUSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf. Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas. CAFÉ EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery. GAUDI 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi. Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer. GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life. MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials. SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids. TAMAGO 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4634 Serving a range of authentic Japanese dishes and sushi, Tamago offers a weekly Sunday buffet lunch and BBQ/ yakiniku on Thursday evenings. Indoor and outdoor seating, with a great terrace. Private rooms also available. Call for home delivery.

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ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine. Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

PARKVIEW INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions. Check their website for details.

QUO VADIS INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections. The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well– sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270– degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

STRATA INTERNATIONAL/ASIAN Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 6291 8750, www.cirrussaigon.com 10am to 10pm Strata is an all-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express

business lunch from 11:30am to 2pm, high tea from 2:30pm to 5pm and a buffet dinner 6:30pm to 10pm, as well as an all-day a la carte menu. A separate private function space provides a suitable venue for business meetings, corporate events, seminars/conferences, and private dining.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm. Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up Europeaninfluenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN BUDGET

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1 Tel: 3915 3692 A contemporary yet traditionally themed Trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving a wide range of home cooked Italian cuisine in the confines of a well designed and thought out space with high ceilings. A varied menu is available to suit different tastes from traditional antipasti to substantial main courses.

PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 11am to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

STELLA CAFFE

MARGHERITA ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with pan-western cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

SALT AND PEPPER TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

MID-RANGE CENTRO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

CIAO BELLA

LUCCA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3822 3329 www.saigonrestaurantgroup.com 9am to 11pm A fun and affordable New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of interesting and tasty antipasti, pastas, pizzas and more. Friendly and attentive staff, rustic bare brick walls and warm Tuscan yellow colouring make for a relaxed and attractive setting to dine while Sinatra, Deano and Sammy croon in the background.

ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space. Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italian-style mains – all sold at decent prices.

MID TO TOP BASILICO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099, www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini. Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes. For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

CASA ITALIA CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent woodfire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellarstyle dining space upstairs.

LA HOSTARIA TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

December 2012 Word | 105

out & about POMODORO PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minuteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s walk of the Opera House. The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni. This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

TOP-END OPERA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistroâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; style restaurant with a triedâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;andâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and woodâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goingsâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

RESTAURANTS â&#x20AC;&#x201C; JAPANESE & KOREAN

BUDGET ASIAN KITCHEN PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bamboo-clad eatery close to Chiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CafĂŠ, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options. With prices remaining at rock bottom â&#x20AC;&#x201C; VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

TOKYO BBQ JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience. Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoal-grilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set

starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

MID-RANGE DRAGON NOODLE JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

OSAKA RAMEN

INAHO

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to Sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Cottage.

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Royâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation. Here it is faultless.

SEOUL HOUSE

JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish. And itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheap, too.

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

KABUTO TOKYO

YAMANEKO

MUS MUS

JAPANESE / FUSION 45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2351 11am to 1.30am Aiming to add some "Nippon (Japanese) cultureâ&#x20AC;? to Saigonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining scene, Kabuto Tokyo offers typical Japanese cuisine such as sushi and sashimi, fusion dishes like Kabuto Mushi and steamed Vietnamese seafood, and various skewers (roasted pork, Yakitori chicken) with salted rice and soy flavoured rice malts. The restaurant itself mixes Manga cartoons on the walls with golden ceilings and traditional Japanese armour, swords and huge carp steamer lantern displays.

OOO / MARUSAN YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamanekoâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

MID TO TOP FUJI RESTAURANT

Ground floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon, 235 Nguyen Van Cu Street, Q1 Tel: 3830 8123 Lunch: 11:00 - 14:30 Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 Fuji restaurant offers luxury Japanese cuisine in Saigon such as Teppanyaki, sushi and Japanese dishes. All ingredients are prepared two Japanese Chefs from Tokyo and Osaka. The big selection of wine, sake and premium Japanese Wagyu beef. Tasty set lunch menus start VND 252.000++.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 0039, www.sushidiningaoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All sushi dishes are prepared by a professional sushi chef from Japan. Tasty set lunches start from a very reasonably priced VND90,000.

URAETEI BBQ RESTAURANT JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious.

RESTAURANTS â&#x20AC;&#x201C; SOUTHEAST ASIAN

BUDGET CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

MID-RANGE BAAN THAI PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like

seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed dĂŠcor with a distinctly Thai theme â&#x20AC;&#x201C; images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more â&#x20AC;&#x201C; provide the atmosphere at this excellent, long-running restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

JASMINE THAI PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candle-lit lighting, Thai music and a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic fivestorey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house â&#x20AC;&#x201D; frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

MONSOON RESTAURANT & BAR SAIGON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: 6290 8899 10am to 11pm Located minutes away from the backpacker area in a beautifully restored French colonial-era villa, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon specialises in pan-Southeast Asian cuisine from Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and

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106 | Word December 2012

Myanmar. Reasonably priced, with a great selection of health-conscious smoothies and juices, expect traditional favourites served in a boldly contemporary and visually arresting setting.

Served sizzling on a griddle with thickâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000. Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

NATHALIE'S

BO NE LE HONG

PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000. Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

MID-TO-TOP KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423, www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

VICKIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TEPPANYAKI & BBQ 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3232, www.vickis.com.vn 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over seven floors, this completely non-smoking restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with each chef preparing the food in front of guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill. Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices, customers can also choose from an extensive set menu ranging from around VND500,000 to VND1.2 million per person

RESTAURANTS â&#x20AC;&#x201C; VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes. Beefsteak Nam Son

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1 Tel: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) - think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000. Has an English menu.

SAIGONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BIGGEST NEW YEARâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S COUNTDOWN BASH

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Huestyle eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

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PAPAYA RESTAURANT PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

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PHAP HOA VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

PHO HOA PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size

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out & about

food Promos CARAVELLE

Christmas Eve Celebration Early Buffet at Nineteen: VND1,480,000++ Gala Dinner at Nineteen: VND2,180,000++ Set-Menu Dinner at Reflections: VND1,880,000++ Christmas Day Celebration Lunch Buffet at Nineteen: VND1,480,000++ Dinner Buffet at Nineteen: VND1,480,000++ New Year’s Eve Celebration Early Buffet at Nineteen: VND1,480,000++ Gala Dinner at Nineteen: VND2,880,000++ Set-Menu Dinner at Reflections: VND2,180,000++ New Year Count-Down Party Saigon Saigon Bar from 7pm until late Cover charge VND230,000net New Year’s Day Celebration Lunch Buffet at Nineteen: VND1,480,000++ Dinner Buffet at Nineteen: VND ,480,000++ The Saigon Children’s Charity Choir will sing carols every afternoon between Dec. 20 and Dec. 25, from 3pm to 5pm in the Lobby Lounge. IBIS SAIGON SOUTH

Christmas and New Year Buffet Dinner: VND540,000++ per person. Indulge yourself with a BBQ Buffet dinner including chicken wings, pork ribs, beef steak, prawn, squid, fish and shell fish, salad, soup, cold and hot selections. A complimentary glass of sparkling wine and free flow soft drinks are included in the deal. Half price for children from 6 to 12 years old. For enquiries call 5410 1111 INTERCONTINENTAL SAIGON

Market 39: Access your own Facebook via one of the hotel’s iPads, then look for InterContinental Asiana Saigon’s fanpage, and click “Like” to receive a 10 percent discount voucher for your next visit. On 12.12.12 only:

108 | Word December 2012

Market 39 — buffet dinner priced at only VND412,000++ per person including house wine, Tiger draught beer and soft drinks. Yu Chu — enjoy as many delectable Dim Sum as you wish at VND212,000++ per person. Basilico — select any type of pizza for VND112,000++ per pizza. The Library — Vietnamese coffee is priced at VND12,000 a serving. Whether your dinner involves ten people or more, Market 39 can organise it with exclusive additional offers including a glass of Prosecco for each diner upon arrival, your choice of celebration cake and flower decoration. The host of the party will dine for free. Prices are unchanged at VND728,000++ per person from Sundays to Thursdays and VND828,000++ per person on Fridays and Saturdays. Offer applies for dinner with minimum 10 persons from now until Jan. 31, 2013. www.ichotelsgroup.com/ intercontinental/en/gb/.../ hochiminhcity

NEW WORLD SAIGON

From Dec. 24 to Dec. 25, New World is offering a dizzying array of set menus and buffets concentrated on traditional Christmas favourites, Chinese standbys, and mulled wine. The Parkview and Dynasty restaurants play host to these affairs, coming in between VND1,365,000++ and VND2,058,000++ per person. Private rooms are also available. And if you recover on time, the New World is also hosting a New Year’s Eve gala nicknamed “Winter Wonderland” — with a live Latin band, a five-hour open bar, and some specials for staying overnight after all that. Tickets are priced at VND3,150,000. Email saigon@newworldhotels. com for details NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

Novotel is pulling out the stops for

See more at wordhcmc.com the holidays this year with special buffets featuring foie gras terrine, Spanish Serrano ham, lobster, and Santa Claus! No, Santa is not included on the menu, but for VND1,050,000++ for the Christmas Eve buffet and VND1,365,000++ per person, it’s hard to complain. www.novotel-nhatrang.com PARK HYATT

At Opera — Christmas Eve: fivecourse set dinner menu priced at VND1,900,000++ per person, including a glass of champagne. Dec. 25: Buffet lunch menu priced at VND 1,100,000++ per person for food only, or VND1,300,000++ per person with free-flow Prosecco. 4-course set dinner menu priced at VND 790,000++ per person. Dec. 31: six-course set dinner menu priced at VND2,100,000++ including a glass of champagne. www.restaurants. parkhyattsaigon.com RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL

Turkey on the run: Order 24 hours in advance and collect your roast with your choice of three condiments, two sauces and a bottle of Cono Sur for VND2,250,000net per turkey (inclusive one bottle of Cono Sur — Sauvignon Blanc or Cabernet Sauvignon). An alternative option: Honey glazed ham is also available at VND2,250,00 net (inclusive one bottle of Cono Sur — Sauvignon Blance or Cabernet Sauvignon) Smoked Salmon Boxed Set: Deluxe standard boxed set is VND990,000 net. Deluxe large boxed set goes for VND1,290,000 net (including a bottle of Villa Sandi Prosecco). The premium standard boxed set costs VND1,990,000 net, while the premium large boxed set weighs in at VND2,290,000 net (including a bottle of Jacques Picard champagne) The Renaissance Riverside is at 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Call 3822 0033 for details.

of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

PHO 99 PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

QUAN HO GUOM HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deepfried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

SAIGON VEGAN VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes. Also has a range of sautéed fair.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of nonfaux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

VIET CHAY VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

BARBECUE GARDEN VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too. A great place for groups and parties.

CUC GACH QUAN MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1, Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh, the cuisine here is good, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients, together with a selection of more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the ChineseVietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asian-style, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinhbranded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. Also runs separate cooking classes.

LAU XE LUA PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an

assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt. Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

MAY RESTAURANT 5/2 Hoang Sa, Dakao, Q1, Tel: 3910 1277 May, meaning cloud in English, is a spacious Vietnamese restaurant opened by French-Italian-Vietnamese restaurateur, Thai Tu Tho. Decorated with 20th century Indochine in mind, the restaurant is spacious and situated in a villa in the heart of Dakao ward, has a touch of understated luxury about it, too. Utilizing homemade broths developed by Tu Tho’s father, the restaurant also uses authentic homemade recipes such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls.

NHA HANG NGON STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

TIB HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

MID TO TOP BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3) STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here

it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces. For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

CAFÉ IF 38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry. Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

HUE CORNER HUE CUISINE / PAN-VIETNAMESE 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 8am to 9pm. Closed Sundays A new Vietnamese addition to the Thao Dien area for those who want good quality local cuisine for lunch or dinner in a quiet setting. A Vietnamese buffet can also be arranged for your own parties at home with take-away and delivery in District 2. A special BBQ with seafood and meat takes places every Saturday.

QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1 Tel: 3602 2241 / 01286 252351 7am to 10pm Popular with foreigners and Vietnamese, Quan Bui offers an extensive menu and reasonable prices. No MSG or sugar added and food is served in traditional pots/ crockery. This restaurant is worth visiting for its high quality food, chic black tables and inviting ambience. Western food also available but make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge.

NAM PHAN PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist. Good wine list.

CELEBRATE THIS FESTIVE SEASON AT ALTITUDE o The only all-day dining restaurant in Saigon with a VIEW o Chef’s special Christmas and New Year’s lunches and dinners being served all through December o Special menus available on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day o Private dining rooms and function room space available for family gatherings and corporate affairs

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist.

o Saigon’s Highest Tea available every afternoon o Very tempting free-flow options also available to make this Christmas season even more festive

1 Anywhere Street, District 1, Ho Chi

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Minh City 12345 123 4567 89

{in the frame}

ARTS CLASSES HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

Having graduated from Hanoi Industrial Fine Arts University with a major in graphic design in 2004, Pham Huy Thong dabbled in illustration, book designing and lecturing. But in 2007, he threw caution to the wind and decided to pursue painting full time. Lyra Dacio speaks to Thong about his creations

As a young boy, I was skinny and wasn’t healthy enough to play outside. So, I stayed home most of the time playing with paper, pencil, crayon, and sometimes clay. I got stuck with art the natural way. Back then, Vietnam was very poor and children didn’t have ‘available’ toys like today. We had to create our own toys in our own style or montage all the other broken toys to make a new one.

CAN YOU NAME SOME ART MASTERS THAT YOU IDENTIFY WITH? I love Chinese contemporary artists who dare to raise their voices against those abusing their power. Such artist is Yue Minjun who makes paintings that criticise the system, as well as capturing the irony of certain situations.

WHAT TYPE OF ART FORMS DO YOU CREATE? My favourite medium is Vietnamese lacquer. The deepness of the layers of

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LISTINGS

ARTS CLASSES 110 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 110 GALLERIES 111 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 113 PERFORMING ARTS 115 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 115

HAND STAND

HOW DID YOU DISCOVER THAT YOU HAD A KNACK FOR THE ARTS?

SOUND & VISION

lacquer always touches my soul. But proper lacquer technique is so time-consuming and I have so many ideas I want to try. I can’t wait 3 months to finish my painting so I have to choose oil to express my ideas on the canvas.

WHAT IS YOUR PAINTING STYLE? FAVOURITE SUBJECTS OR THEMES? In my point of view, an artist should merge his life, what he witnesses in his life — where he’s at in his work. I observe what I see and record it into my paintings with my own filter. For example, in my Dong Bao (Compatriots) series, I transformed all people in my paintings into fetuses, pushing them back [into] their mothers’ womb. In the Vietnamese fairytale that depicts brotherhood, everyone has the same mother Au Co and father Lac Long Quan. In my paintings, those fetuses are biting, shooting and controlling each other just like what we see in real life —especially in the American War. Find his works at www. cthomasgallery.com

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

THE TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHERS WORKSHOP Peter Stuckings and Mark Stennett are professional travel photographers based in Ho Chi Minh City who offer workshops and tours to help you improve your photography skills. For more information on dates and prices, check out www. facebook.com/TheTravelPhotographers or email them on pstuckings@gmail.com or mark@driftphototours.com

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire. All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

VIN SPACE 4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting, drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

COLUMNS IN THE FRAME 110 ROAD RULES 112 BAND & DJ 114

BOOKS & MAGAZINES ARTBOOK 43 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English, French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

sound & vision GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY

31C Le Quy Don, Q3, Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional

and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Contemporary art gallery Galerie Quynh, initially promoting several of Vietnam’s pioneering abstract painters, now focuses on a wider international programme. In addition to working with a select group of artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of distinguished artists from around the world allowing the local community and visitors access to a diverse range of contemporary art practice. Working with art spaces and curators internationally, the gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON 324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes. Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG 94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallicrun bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second– hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC) 2A Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam. Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

SAHABOOK 175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps. Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

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road

artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

Rules

Pat Joynt, of Saigon Scooter Centre, has been in Vietnam for 15 years, and working in the scooter and motorcycle industry for 30 years, restoring classic bikes, importing and producing parts. To ask Pat a question about your motorbike, email roadrules@wordhcmc.com

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 , Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

SAIGON GALLERY OF FINE ART 9 Phan Chu Trinh St., Fl 2-3, Q.1 Tel: 38226570 VN +84-919025726 / US +1-714 697 7037 10am - 7pm daily The Saigon Gallery of Fine Art is located on the West Wing of the famous Ben Thanh market. The gallery is set up on the second and third floor of an old French building that is accessed by a cozy hallway-entrance. Founded in 1999 with the objective of promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-and-coming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

Hi Pat, I'm looking to buy a new bike. Originally I was going to buy a secondhand one. I like the Cruiser bikes and I was having a look at a few which were ranging from VND30 to VND80 million. I don't have a clue about bikes so was afraid I might get ripped off. Anyway I had a look in the Suzuki centre in Tan Binh and saw a bike I really liked. It’s the Suzuki GZ150-A, and it’s VND46 million which I didn't think was a bad price plus I will get a year’s warranty and 2 years of services. I had a Sukzui scooter in England and it was a good runner with no problems. I want your opinion about the bike, what do you think? Also, are there any other similar bikes you would recommend over the Suzuki? The Suzuki GZ150-A is new to the Vietnam market and was first produced in August last

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year. This model is currently imported from China. The quality seems quite good but of course there are quality differences with small parts like the switches, etc. I have looked at these in the past as I thought about using them as another option for our rental bikes. The specs seem quite high and include 5 speed box, fuel injection, 12 litre tank, front disc brake and tubeless tyres and, of course, no licencing issues as it’s 150cc and therefore under the A1 licence. I don’t think there are many other choices at the moment in the current market if you’re looking for a new cruiser style bike and it’s competitively priced at VND47 million including VAT. Not bad value for money at all with the warranty. Another option would be to check out the secondhand market and look for something like the older

Suzuki GN125 model but there are problems with sourcing parts for this model. What is the difference between the petrol that is available here and does it make any difference which one I use? Gasolines are rated based on octane. In most countries regular gasoline is 87 octane, midgrade is 89 and premium is 91 to 93. If you check your owner’s manual, you’ll find the recommended level for your engine. Here in Vietnam, Unleaded petrol is usually available in 92 or 95 octane . This is measured in RON (research octane number). 98 Octane is available overseas for high performance engines but is not available in Vietnam. In general, gasoline should also be used within a month of purchase — it does have an expiry date. Most modern day engines perform better on a higher octane petrol.

213C Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES ACOUSTIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

BAR BUI 39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,, Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into

a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

CACOPHONY 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture. The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

CARMEN 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

HARD ROCK CAFÉ

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6291 7595 www.hardrockcafe.vn Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2009,

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY 53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

ZEROSTATION 288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio

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sound & vision

BAND & DJ LISTINGS BAD NEIGHBOUR claualehm@hotmail.com Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members, Bad Neighbour can be seen performing on Fridays at Hard Rock Café. BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others. Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes. CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads CURTIS KING BAND Tel: 0908 339405 www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound. Founded in 1996, the band has performed all over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events. DJ AJAM http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha. Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages. DJ equipment and sound system for rent. DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities. A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam. DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY 380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers

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training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency. EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design. Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs. GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply. JURAM GAVERO TRIO juramgavero@hotmail.com Juram has been playing around the city for the last 12 years, and is now one of the most popular acts in Ho Chi Minh City. His blend of eclectic music styles gathered from his experiences around the world stand him in good stead to make you enjoy your evening any night of the week. MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events. Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair. RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon. THE WANDERLUSTER Tel: 0122 3022 262 davis@wanderlustersvn.com The Wanderlusters are an acoustic, vocally inspired band, outfitted with traditional blurgrass instruments, that plays American roots music. Influenced by country, bluegrass, rock, folk, gospel, and blues, The Wanderlusters play your favourite hillbilly soul songs. WARAPO BAND Tel: 0933 067752 warapo.production@gmail.com This high-energy seven piece Cuban band brings the sensuality and the passion from the Carribbean. Their music is a unique blend of styles ranging from salsa, merengue, cha cha, reggaeton and pop that’s ideal for events and private parties.

the 542sqm iconic café includes seating for 205, a bar, a live music area and a Rock Shop featuring Hard Rock’s rock n' roll inspired merchandise, including limited-edition pins and t-shirts, reflecting the spirit of the city. Famous for its burgers and American fare, the venue also has nightly live music played by their house band together with a range of events – anything from live, standup comedy through to the Battle of the Bands. Check their website for details.

JARDIN D’AMOUR 8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

LA HABANA

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com Saigon cover band stalwarts Carmen & Brothers play an eclectic selection of well known hits by the likes of Michael Jackson,

Leona Lewis and Bon Jovi every night of the week except Mondays. The music usually starts at 9pm but arrive early to ensure prime seating in the lounge.

can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

METALLIC BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smokefree atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music venues. Longtime house band, The Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

NAPOLY BAR 7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3, Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm till late Tuesday to Sunday One of Saigon’s chicest venues with some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music (except on Mondays) from 9pm courtesy of the multinational sextet Motion. Expect a bit of everything from r&b, dance and jazz to hip-hop, rap and rock.

PACHARAN

SAIGON SAIGON BAR

SEVENTEEN SALOON

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH HOUSE

+ 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can

be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends.

VASCO’S

74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends. With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues. Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

YOKO 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon's wife inspired the name of this excellent bar. Refurbished and expanded in 2011, Yoko is undoubtedly one of the coolest and most unique venues in Saigon, hosting live music nightly from some of the city's best local musicians and bands, including 6789, Microwave and Coconuts. Expect classic rock, jazz, funk, country, metal, grunge, blues and everything else inbetween. An unmissable destination for grassroots and underground music lovers.

PERFORMING ARTS HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419, www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet

perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

SAIGON PLAYERS www.saigonplayers.com saigonplayers@gmail.com A non-profit community theatre group whose mission is to uphold the arts while giving to charity. Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights at 7.30pm every first Wednesday of the month at La Habana and script nights at 7.30pm every third Wednesday of the month at venues alternating between Boomarang Bistro Saigon in Q7 and Geisha's Tea House in Q1.

PRODUCTION COMPANIES CREA TV 339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS 91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and exotic Cuban salsa music.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own. Local hard rock and metal bands

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

IDECAF

WI-FI

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

NON-SMOKING AREA

MEGASTAR CINEMA

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastar.vn

DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

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LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 116 BASKETBALL 116 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 116 COOKING CLASSES 116 CRICKET 116 DANCING 116 FITNESS 116 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 118 GOLF 119 LEISURE - GENERAL 119 SPORTS CLASSES 120 TENNIS 120

LEISURE

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 120 YOGA & MEDITATION 120 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 120 COSMETIC SURGERY 121 DENTAL 122 HAIRDRESSERS 122 MEDICAL 124 PHARMACIES 124 SALONS 124 SPAS 124

Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

AMUSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area. Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG 5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun. Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese. You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB 8 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six

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SAIGON EXPATS

kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch. Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB 628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms. Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi. Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month

leisure & wellness membership will set you back VND4 million.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1 Tel: 3820 9734 www.overlandclub.jp A Japanese home cooking class that meets every Sunday afternoon from 1.305pm. Run by a Japanese pottery artist, Overland Club also organises pottery classes, Vietnamese-Japanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating papers and multinational cuisine days. The club is open to all nationalities and ages.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes. Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3827 0349 www.vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions. The season starts every October.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS: ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)

CYRIL AND YOU, BODY AND MIND

LA COCHINCHINE Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Tel: 0947 771326 info@cyril-and-you.com www.cyril-and-you. com Offering nutritional advice and personalised programs for body toning, Cyril also offers fitness training at the BoatHouse in An Phu from 8.30am on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings as well as fitness classes which take place every day at Riverside in An Phu, Q2. Inquire further for Body Fight classes with Ludwig and Cross Training with Cezary. Contact Cyril for more information.

Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB

Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)

Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

DANCING DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1). It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”. Scheduling information is available online.

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports. Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning. Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors. Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE 64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop–in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie– calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

PAUL SIMOS www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive

SAIGON SWING CATS www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

FITNESS AIS SPORTS CENTRE Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the– art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool. Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

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leisure & wellness

leisure & wellness environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

PATRICK NGUYEN Tel: 093 815 6865 www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO. New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool. Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR

SAIGON SAINTS

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

THE LANDMARK CLUB The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

Tel: 01225 811 080 www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six months and VND21 million for a year at this small but well–equipped gym. Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym. Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

STEPHANE LAPORTE, FITNESS COACH Tel: 0908 897 604 www.personaltrainers.asia Stephane Laporte is a certified personal trainer and sports massage therapist. Take a free assessment and receive a tailored goal-driven fitness and nutrition programme to get you in the shape you want to achieve. Programmes include pre/post-race preparation and therapy, triathlon coaching, corrective and functional exercises, weight loss/gain, TRX, Kettlebells and Capoeira as well as many other services.

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THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

GOLF LADIES’ FIRST GOLF www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

style, and one with distinctly modern touches. Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

LEISURE – GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long–established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

RAINBOW DIVERS

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7 Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000. Equipment hire is also available.

Buddha Bar, 7 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0913 408146 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF

77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660 www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Long Thanh My Village, Q9 Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to

www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years. Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

SAIGON RAIDERS jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches. Contact Jon Hoff.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

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see the recent 180 scores.

swimming pool.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT

www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball. Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club. You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball@gmail.com A friendly mixed netball league, running on Monday nights, is open to both men and women from the ages of 8 years old and upwards (including an adults competition). If you are interested in playing, whether as a team or an individual, please contact The Shooters by email.

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon. Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@ yahoo.com.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

SPORTS CLASSES CAPOEIRA 25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter. Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II 796 Su Van Hanh, Q10 Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and

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VIETNAMESE CLASSES PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6678 0914/ 0979 654487 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE Tel: 0128 630 5982, www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga

Alliance. Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO 54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 5347 / 0913 764 776 www.shriyogavietnam.com Newly opened yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels; basic, intermediate and advanced. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available. Classes are held in both English and Vietnamese with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore. Scheduled 200-hour teacher training courses (RYT200) are available throughout the year.

STAR FITNESS GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym. Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non–member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretarygeneral of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOUR 33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2 Lotus Road 28, Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 090 3873 599, vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA ANUPA STUDIO 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.anupa.net/yoga-anupa The Yoga Anupa Studio is a place where students practice yoga in classes limited to four students with highly qualified teachers who can assist students and also adjust classes based on the group's needs. A busy schedule of Kandalini, Sivananda, Hatha Flow, Yin, Ashtanga and Power as well as many other types of yoga is available throughout the week. Healthy drinks, breakfast and lunches are also organized to take back to work after class.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE Tel: 01266 626467 www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes. A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation

GREGORY BEAL 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh Q1/34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: 01268 654202 www.gregbealetherapyfitness.com American-trained and nationally certified massage therapist and National Academy of Sports Medicine certified personal trainer offering orthopedic manual therapy, corrective exercise and orthopedic massage. With a focus on pain management of back pain, shoulder pain and other muscular and soft tissue injuries as well as injury rehab/prevention. Orthopedic manual therapy ends pain, helps regain range of motion and prevents re-injury with massage/manual therapy and exercise prescriptions.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

YOGA SANTI 269/3 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 2110 www.yogasanti.com Operating to create an oasis of peace in Saigon, Yoga Santi strives to provide thoughtful and challenging classes for students of all levels while offering a variety of styles ranging from athletic to gentler classes. All teachers have received international training and are well versed in instructing Hatha yoga, Vinyasa yoga, Yin yoga, Hatha flow and Sivananda yoga.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM 8 Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE 273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system. English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN Tel: 0937 442 516 www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An

Phu. Home visits available.

THETA HEALING Tel: 0918 591 933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailor-made programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking. Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

COSMETIC SURGERY AMERICAN EYE CENTER VIETNAM 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 www.americaneyecentervn.com Excess eyelid skin, drooping eyelid/ eyebrow, ‘fat bags’ and hollowing around the eye or deep forehead wrinkles can be severe enough to limit vision or cause eye discomfort. American Eye Center Vietnam offers a solution with eyelid plastic surgery by an American Board-Certified eye surgeon providing eyelid surgery as well as Botox and cosmetic filler injections.

CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern hospital. With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, hi-myopia treatment, Botox anti-wrinkle treatment, dermal filler (Restylane)

CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT Family Medical Practice, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with a Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical

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leisure & wellness treatment, eyelid reshaping, eyelid fat removal and brow lifts.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC 290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound– based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping. The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

leisure & wellness eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

DENTAL ACCADENT Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800 www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses stateof-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

HAIRDRESSERS

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

ART HAIR 37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp–looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

COLOR HAUS

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss re-growth treatments.

modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

SMILE DENTAL 173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFURE

for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP 119 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 SD-11,Panorama Phu My Hung, Tan Phong, Q.7 Tel: 5413 3300 Academy 117 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3911 0915/3911 0916 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

LE GRAND SPA & FITNESS Grand Hotel, 8 Dong Khoi, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 08 3827 0309. Open every day from 10.30am - 7pm. A hair stylist with 16 years experience including a long stint at Park Hyatt Hotel, Tommy Bui now works as a manager at Le Grand Spa Hotel. His hair salon is modern and relaxed, the staff professional and sociable. All famous cosmetic brands like L'Oreal, TiGi and nail water OPI are being used. A hair cut including washing and blowdry costs from VND500,000.

THE SALON 21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2. Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

VENUS

JASMINE

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

YKC HAIR STUDIO

(Cut and Colour Specialist), YKC Hair Studio atteacts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the well trained staff and friendly English-speaking environment. Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used. A cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000. Moroccan Oil treatment is also available.

MEDICAL

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

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FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758/5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn.com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS 273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10, Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health– checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year (laser vision correction, cataract surgery and eyelid reshaping). English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals (WAEH), and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International (JCI).

CARE 1 Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI) – FOUNDATION ALAIN CARPENTIER

doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine. A nonprofit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heat Institute to fund children’s operations.

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 Emergency: 5411 3500 www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24–hour) 5411 3500.

FV SAIGON CLINIC 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

IFC INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY COUNSELING HCMC A 2.4 Parkview Building, Q7, 28/1A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 0903 031280 libbyzin@yahoo.com With offices located in district one and Phu My Hung, this nonprofit counselling clinic offers sliding scale fees to all its patients. For eight years in HCMC, IFC has been the only teaching clinic practicing western psychotherapy with attention to the values of other nationalities and cultures.

examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

PHARMACIES INTERNATIONAL SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this well-respected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescription-only. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

SALONS FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN 40 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE 64A Truong Dinh, Q3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages,

slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well–designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

CAT MOC SPA 61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com Established in 2010 and aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. Open daily from 9am to 10pm including national holidays.

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non– profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/ osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication.

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1, Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with

135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general

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leisure & wellness Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

MEKONG BLISS SPA 112, Pasteur Street, Q1 Tel: 6299 0563 www.mekongblissspa.com 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm) Located in the centre of Saigon, Mekong Bliss Spa is a top place to enjoy authentic Vietnamese spa treatments. As well as offering an impressive plethora of services such as herbal foot scrubs, warm stone therapy and purifying facials, part of the proceeds go towards helping disadvantage youth in the Mekong Delta, meaning you’re making difference while getting pampered. What could be better than that?

MIU MIU FOOT & SPA 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6659 3609 www.koneko.asia/miumiu 10am to 11:30pm (Last booking 10:30pm) Located in the city centre, and standing for “Nyanya” (or “cry of the kitten”), Miu Miu is an elegant and serene Japanese spa offering various body, facial and foot massages, as well as several nail treatments including manicures, polish and design, and scrubs. Massages range from 60 minutes to two hours and rates are from VND65,000 to VND530,000. The spa also offers Thann and Harnn, popular beauty products in Thailand.

Q SPA & SALON 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3905 4609 An old world, Indochine-esque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a deep tissue, hot stone or four-hands massage. Also offers hair styling and facials.

QING SPA 110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9901 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Spa InterContinental offers guests the professional spa expertise and a truly sensory experience. With an extensive menu, the Spa InterContinental provides the caring touch of the local therapists and the best of active pure ingredients and exotic botanical recipes, bringing to life Asia’s healing traditions.

SPA TROPIC 79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1 Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco

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café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 2220 2600 www.spa1960.vn A luxury health spa located on the top floor of Sailing Tower in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Designed with traditional Oriental spirit, the spa focuses on offering both relaxation and health care therapies to all clients. Oriental remedies and therapies collected from the Traditional Medicine Institutes of Vietnam are used by the centre’s therapists and applied to the particular health condition of each client.

THE SPA Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

STYLE LISTINGS

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 124 CLOTHING STORES 125 LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS 126 SPORTSWEAR 127 TAILORS 127 INTERIORS ART 127 CRAFT 128 FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 128 KITCHEN & BATHROOM 129

FASHION

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings LIGHTING 129 ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 129 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 129 MOBILE PHONES 130 GROCERIES BAKERIES 130 CATERING 130 GROCERIES 131 LIQUOR & WINE 131

B.O.M SHOP

ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 2K BAG SHOP 362 Huynh Tan Phat, Q7; 193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc; 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa Tel: 097 7872 777 This cute little store has been gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike. Although dinky from the outside, 2K stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, manbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. If you’re hunting for a good value, last minute purchase, then 2K is well worth the visit. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

ACCESSORIZE B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm One of the most instantly recognisable international retail brands operating inside Vincom Center, Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to stocking an attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more. Prices vary depending on type and design but generally start from around VND200,000.

ICONS 101 CASUAL WEAR FORMAL WEAR SHOES BAGS

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

style

JEWELLERY ACCESSORIES

2 Thao Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 01283 221705 / 0986 024367 www.bandzofmonkeyz.com B.O.M provides imported, high-quality helmets from Italy and China, bean bags, authentic sunglasses from France, highquality raincoats for kids and adults, and other accessories.

BIRKENSTOCK B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

UNDERWEAR

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

SKECHERS 115 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

35 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 6291 8162 www.galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million. Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

IPA-NIMA

TIC TAC WATCHES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-andgold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

TDC SWISS WATCHES

THERESE JEWELRY

1B Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its frontage is painted in a stark lemon yellow. Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

174 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

CHARLES & KEITH

MAI O MAI

VESPA SHOP

67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery. There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million. The staff is friendly and speak English.

Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters. Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

BLUE DRAGON

18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and wellorganised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million. There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

DR. MARTENS SWIMWEAR

woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand. Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past. But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or

JEMMA

SERGIO ROSSI 146AB Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

YB DESIGNS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings. Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite. Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

CLOTHING STORES BUDGET MARATHON 147 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

PAPAYA 171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE 180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3. Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000. Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

MID-RANGE BAM SKATESHOP 174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

NINOMAXX 118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissancestyle columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

MID TO TOP BOSSINI 22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts. Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products. Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt. Also stocks socks and belts.

ER-COUTURE 43 Thao Dien, Q1, Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

D’BLANC 89A Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

FRENCH CONNECTION

54-56 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493 www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop. Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

MAXXSTYLE

GAYA CLOTHING

52 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3. Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and

Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses,

GINKGO

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style embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

style boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-to-wear clothing for work or play

L’USINE

85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs. The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

IT'S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET

MAI’S

89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures.

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories. Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

LABELLA 85-87 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye. Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eyecatching box-shaped shelves. Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

LEVI’S 47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3. Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city. Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

LITI 40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

LOLITA 61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) Tel: 3925 9993 www.lolita.com.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion

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MANGO 40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1136 96 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3824 6624 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9300 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside. The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury. Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

MR & MRS SMITH 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

NGAN 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots,

belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

RAZ GARNETT 137 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops. Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000. Has European-sized t-shirts.

SONG 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1. Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

THUY NGA DESIGN 19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A long-sleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

UMBRELLA 35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices vary, starting from VND999,000 up to VND3,499,000 on selected items with more complicated craftsmanship.

TOP-END ANUPA Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7307 Eco Luxe Anupa, 9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 2394 www.anupa.net Situated in a French villa-style home and converted into an eco-boutique, Villa Anupa houses the complete Anupa Collection as well as the products of Anupa Horvil's handpicked eco designers. Anupa’s collection features luxury leather accessories including bags for men and women as well as many other pieces from yoga bags to belts. Other designers include Unit T bamboo eyewear, Miguel la Salle and Things of Substance to name but a few. Recently expanding to another location, Anupa has opened an Eco-Luxe boutique which carries a smaller selection of her collection. Both stores are open from 9am until 8pm daily.

CHLOE 155 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products,

from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

JUST CAVALLI M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available. Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

MARC JACOBS

TRIUMPH

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

VERSACE M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish. The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS AQUAMARINE 211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from one-piece bikinis through to twopieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

SSUZI

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good. However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

WACOAL 94 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1. Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

SPORTSWEAR SPORTS STREET A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town,

however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

U.BEST HOUSE 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

TAILORS HOANG DUNG 270 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes. They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR

DOGMA

39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles. Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propaganda-printed tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

INTERIORS

244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

ART APRICOT GALLERY 50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

CACTUS GALLERY 17/12 Nguyen Huy Tuong, P6, Binh Thanh. Tel: 0904959053 www.cactusartgallery.com Located near to the Fine Art University, Cactus Gallery was founded in 2011 by artist Phuong Quoc Tri with a desire to provide the art space to the world in general and Viet Nam in particular, both on a personal level and on a united one. Linking talented artists together for daily art events such as exhibitions, artist talks and art projects the gallery aims to erase the boundaries between Vietnamese and International artists as well as any art lovers, curators, collectors and art dealers. Cactus Gallery primarily focuses on discovering, supporting and developing young talent.

GALLERY

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamesethemed stereotypes available elsewhere in town. Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHU Y 257 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm)

JOCKEY Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear. Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

LA HA 139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different

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style

rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI 213C Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a fourfloor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1 Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists. Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG 234 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products. An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT

on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY 83 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA 209 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand– woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

MEKONG QUILTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

FURNITURE & HOMEWARES

EM EM

AUSTIN HOME

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

20 Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phubased shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

MEKONG CREATIONS

A&W FINE FURNITURE

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the NGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs. Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

NGUYEN FRERES

BELLAVITA

2 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house. Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating

The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by well-known brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most

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products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT 68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks. Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS 4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

CHI LAI 53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

CLIC CLAC SOFA 327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location,

this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-to-order furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery. Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

GAYA 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

HAFELE SHOWROOM 46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

LIVING & GIVING 59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors. Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks

a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

NHA XINH 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials. From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs. Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE 3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN 152 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailormade environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1 It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand. Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO 51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOUSE

UNITY 12 Dang Tran Con, Q1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection— to give your home a sense of Unity.

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials. Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE 98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware

and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

VEKTOR LED 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.VektorLED.com Vektor LED provide LED base replacement lights and T8 tubes that are easy to install in current sockets. Using green materials (no mercury or other toxins), these lights provide an energy saving of 50% against normal Fluorescent lights, with 10-15 times the lifespan of normal lights.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS CAMERA STREET Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH 28 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS Tel: 0903 035 271 www.silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small. The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

MAT RONG VANG Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions. A world leader in real time monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE 11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony. They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPUTER STREETS Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

CARTRIDGE WORLD 81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of wellknown brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER 236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million. Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customer-service.

LONG BINH COMPUTER 50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers. Good customer service and quick delivery.

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style PHONG VU 125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM 42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1. Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN 428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to

style monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

THUAN MY CO.

GROCERIES

SESAME BAKERY

227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN 352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE 382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG 182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292 www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

BAKERIES CAKEWALK 84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087 www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS 54 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS 33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS 180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER 39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING AU PARC CATERING Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@ gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME 100 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

LA DORÉE

LE REUNION DES MARMITES

216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches. Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more. Visit website for full menu.

NHU LAN 64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

VIENTHONG A

SIMRANS

328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

QUAN BUI Tel: 01286 252 351 / 3602 2241 (Mr Danh) High quality Vietnamese food at reasonable prices for the home or workplace. Caters for private parties, receptions, office celebrations, and conferences. Choose from an extensive Vietnamese menu (crispy spring rolls, chicken fried rice, sautéed prawns and cashew nuts) or mix and match with

Western cuisine (canapés, dips, cocktail sandwiches, fresh tropical fruit). Efficient delivery, all equipment and waiter service provided.

REX HOTEL CATERING 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY 41 Vo Truong Toan, D.2, HCMC Tel: 3898 9286 info@saigoncateringco.com www.saigoncateringco.com With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals. Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a stand-up cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow,

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson. In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information. CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm GIA THANH 975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm NGUYEN KIM 63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm THIEN HOA 277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY 84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget. Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

GROCERIES ANNAM GOURMET MARKET 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS 45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1 Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KITCHEN – QUALITY FROZEN READY MEALS Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging. Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www. kitchen.net.vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally– sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

LE COCHON D’OR 32 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware. Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

PHUONG HA 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA 60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers. Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe) Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal ready-to-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET SHOP 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

BACCHUS CORNER 158D Pasteur, Q1 www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from

all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC 74E Hai Ba Trung,Q1 Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE 6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

LE TONNEAU 15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine– tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

THE WAREHOUSE 178 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA 41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

VINIFERA 15C7 Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

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GENERATION V LISTINGS BABY EQUIPMEANT 132 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 132 CLASSES & SPORTS 132 CLOTHING 132

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

EDUCATION 133 ENTERTAIMENT 135 KIDS' PARTIES 135 MEDICAL 135

BABY EQUIPMENT BABY 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

CHILDREN’S SQUARE 270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

ME OI 1B Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

MOM & BABY 230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHUONG NAM 1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY 10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES

to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

LIFETIME SPORTS Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_ music77@hotmail.com).

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

RMIT VIETNAM 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s an additional fee for non–members. Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

SAIGON PONY CLUB 42 Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

STAGEMAGIC Tel: 0903 145087, www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and

BELLI BLOSSOM

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3822 6615 4th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel:5413 7574 www.belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom is a shop catering to moms and babies stocking imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and more. Available brands include Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends and Gingersnaps.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THUY

WATERCOLOUR WORKSHOPS WITH LINDSAY ERDMAN Tel: 0932 102378 www.lindsayerdman.net Canadian watercolour artist, Lindsay Erdman hosts Saturday afternoon workshops for painters of all levels. Work with still life, live models and flora while learning or refining a variety of watercolour techniques. Workshops held on a beautiful terrace in district 10. Week-long workshops are also available.

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING 226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably–priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

EDUCATION ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international

education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

COMPASS EDUCATION

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL East-West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234, www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Xi Early Childhood Centre 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Tel: 3519 2727; Early Childhood & Primary School, Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien,Q2. Tel: 3744 6960; Middle & Senior School, EastWest Highway, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle and senior school campuses. An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages. Scholarships available.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3744 2335, www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style

programs for children to develop a love for learning and the essential skills, character, and intelligence needed to become outstanding leaders and achieve success and happiness in life.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers co-educational classes from Kindergarten to grade 12 for local and foreign students. Talented, certified teachers implement the awarded Ontario curriculum to create a studentcentered learning environment. Focuses on academic achievement, character education and global thinking with a commitment to the arts and languages (Vietnamese and French). Students graduate with the Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide.

CITYSMART Cu Xa Do Thanh, 7, Duong So 2, P4, Q3 Tel: 3832 8488 Flemington Tower, 2nd Floor, 182 Le Dai Hanh, P15, Q11 Tel: 3962 1218 www.citysmart.vn CitySmart is an international education centre for children in Vietnam that delivers a range of diverse, internationally proven educational

15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL – GIS 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 7300 7257 www.giss.vn The German International School offers a unique bi-lingual German-English programme for students, from a variety of nationalities, from 2 to 16 years old. Its curriculum is based on the internationally recognised Primary Years Programmes (PYP), Middle Years Programme (MYP) and IB Diploma Programme of the International Baccalaureate (IB) system.

628A An Binh, Q2, Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

SAIGON MOVEMENT

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SAIGON SEAL TEAM

school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884. 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition) Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how

generation v singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins. Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports–based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

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generation v GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com ISHCMC, located in District 2, has been successfully graduating students with an IB Diploma to high-profile overseas colleges and universities since 1999. ISHCMC is the only fully authorized IB World School in HCMC, providing an International Baccalaureate curriculum (PYP, MYP & IBDP) to all students, ages 2 to 18. It is fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of School and Colleges (NEASC).

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standard-based curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and

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generation v state-of-art facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTER Ground Floor, Crescent Residence 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 www.kindermusik.edu.vn Kindermusik is the world’s premier Music, Movement & English language program for children from birth to 7 years. Each unit’s weekly lessons promote early literacy and English language acquisition, social skills and more. The learning fun continues with Kindermusik@Home materials, including music from class, musical activities and story time. Kindermusik programs align with standards and/or requirements for the USA, UK, EU, TESOL Pre-K and IB Primary Years Program; and have been adopted by the National Teachers College of Ho Chi Minh City. Enrolments include a family activity book or digital magazine, along with high-quality CDs or digital music downloads, containing a variety of musical styles and genres. There are over 6,000 Kindermusik Educators in 67 countries.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC Tel: 0862819679, info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers. ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7, Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0938 371 760 www.sic.edu.vn An Australian-Vietnamese government project, SIC caters for Years 10, 11 & 12 and is under the Curriculum Council of Western Australia. All subjects taught in English by foreign teachers. Inspectors from Australia control teaching standards. Students graduate with the internationally recognised Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), which gives direct entry to all Australian universities. Fees up to VND142,702,000 per year. SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3, Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art

facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

through Grade 12.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2 Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3519 2223 Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

VAS 98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3933 3655 www.vas.edu.vn VAS is one of the leading schools for teaching and learning development in Vietnam, providing from programmes from Kindergarten to Secondary school education. In line with their mission to educate an elite young generation with confidence to integrate into the world’s education, VAS also aims to develop its human resources by creating a professional and friendly working environment with attractive benefits for teachers.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS) 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Ben Nghe Ward, Q1 Tel: 3910 0168 / 3910 3266 contact@vlstudies.com R4-28 (Hung Phuoc 2) Le Van Them, Q7 Tel: 3602 6694 info@vlstudies.com, www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 18 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses for all abilities in high quality facilities with time flexibility. Lessons can be taken

either at school or at the learner’s office and home.

ENTERTAINMENT DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA 35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2 Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com. X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

KIDS’ PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON Tel: 0909 052502 dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN 100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do. Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the childcare speciality at this well– equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital

has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q.3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

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Hanoi THE ARTIST

Q&A

The Sound of Silence The visionary behind Ford Motor Company’s ‘No Honking’ campaign and Hanoi’s silent parties, Minh Quoc ‘Dat’ explains the origins of his project to make this city a quieter, more thoughtful place. Interview by Kaitlin Rees. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

Before there was a‘No Honking’ campaign, you first had something called a Silent Party. Can you explain what exactly a Silent Party is? The Silent Party is a party first, everyone drinks and eats. But, they don’t talk. They can use sign language oruse their faces, everything except talking. It’s very simple. What is the purpose of a party where no one speaks? I hoped to get people thinking about talking. I wanted to create a difference between the inside and outside of the party, between silence and talking, so that people would consider the value of speaking and using words. When people leave the party and are free to talk again, I want there to be a change in how they express themselves. If you are not allowed to talk, you feel a certain pressure inside. I wanted the young people to come up against this pressure. Vietnamese young people need to learn to confront things, and the first thing you should confront is yourself. When it comes to facing confrontation, don’t you need to speak out in order for other people to hear you? We need that. People need to talk in order to understand each other. But when culture and people move so fast, like in Vietnam, they don’t have conversations, real conversations. Money, job, iPhone, nonsense things. We do need conversation, every culture does. But we need more than one conversation, and maybe that means having a conflict. My ideas about hosting a silent party arerooted in the need to come up againstcertain things on the inside in order to better understand yourself. Only then can you have real conversations with other people. The way that people have conversations today is so different, even in the language that is used. What do you think about how language is changing? It’s like a river. There are people who don’t accept the language that teenagers use today. They cannot understand it. The problem is that people don’t flow with the language. Generations move along and if you don’t move along, too, you’ll misunderstand. The thing is that language and people can move so far, but silence is always there, in the same place as it has always been. Everyone is equal in the silence and it can be a bridge between cultures, between generations. How did you translate your ideas for the Silent Party to

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a No Honking campaign? The concept is the same. Because in Vietnam it’s a big problem, I wanted to make the name something equally big.No Horn,Ko Coi, is a big statement that makes people question it. But when people question the name, they think about the ways that the horn is useful, and that means they are thinking about it. That’s all I want. My slogan is “think before horn”. It is the same as with the Silent Party, to think about the value of words. How to express yourself without words makes you respect words. The same with using horns while driving. So what is your response when people say, “I have to use my horn, it’s unsafe and impossible to drive without it”? That reaction is useful. When people go against the name, they think about it deeper and deeper.My main message is for young people, the ones who are driving their first motorbike that their parents bought for them. I had the experience of my dad teaching me to drive my first motorbike. He taught me that when you get to a corner, ‘beep beepbeep’ automatically, even without watching. When your horn is so automatic, you don’t really watch or think, you are like a robot, automatically stupid. A horn is not a substitution for vision. Do you know the story of Sisyphus, who pushes a boulder up a mountain only to have it keep rolling back down? Do you think you’re a little like Sisyphus? Yeah, my partner in the office asks the same thing, like ‘this is nonsense, you can’t change people, it’s a system error.’ The issue with the horn is part of a lot of other problems in Vietnam. Going first, going fast, doing everything just for yourself. To change that is impossible, he says, that is Vietnam, that is the Vietnamese character. My reaction to him is that if you don’t do something, nothing will happen. You have to do something, even if it’s nonsense. If you have an idea and don’t do anything to make it happen, to me that is nonsense. I don’t think about how to push the boulder, I know that it is a boulder. But I’ve found that people want to help me, like in the ‘No Horn’ projectthere is a big sponsor, and the groups Live and Learn, and Be Change Agents have also joined. I have only one idea and then people come. I don’t know how to change the world, or how to change the problems in Vietnam, but I don’t think too far ahead like that, I just do a little bit. I hope that the younger people will learn that you cannot dream about doing big things, if you can’t do small things first.

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THE MANY FACES OF HANOI

The Black and White Portrait Artist Although digital technology has irrevocably transformed the art of portraiture, one Hanoi artist has stuck with tradition. Words by Phong Lan. Images provided by Nguyen Bao Nguyen

guyen Bao Nguyen, now in his 70s, became a portrait artist by chance. His childhood dream was to become a scientist and to achieve this he studied physics at university. However, in his final year he became seriously ill and was unable to complete his exams. This was to change his fate. During his convalescence, bored and with nothing to do, he followed some portrait artists near his house to their workshops, secretly watching them work. Fascinated by the lively images skillfully drawn with only simple tools, Nguyen decided to try it for himself, starting with sketched portraits of his own family members from some old photos. “I then realised that I not only had a passion, but also a great potential for drawing,” he says. “So I decided to learn the skills and then applied for work at a workshop near my house. I forgot about my uncompleted studies at university.” That was during the early 1960s in a period when black and white, hand-drawn portraits were in great demand. “We then mainly drew portraits for old people or those who had passed away so that their children could place them on their family altars,” he recalls. “We were often called the artists of the dead people.”

The Brush Master In Hanoi’s Old Quarter, portrait workshops were everywhere and a successful portrait artist could become relatively wealthy. After a period working for other business owners, Nguyen decided to go it alone and opened a small studio at 47 Hang Ngang in the heart of the portrait drawing district. The tools Nguyen and other portrait

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artists use are simple — brush pens, a small eraser and black ink powder — but the results are impressive, and the pictures full of life. There is more to the art than merely faithfully copying photographs. Nguyen prides himself on capturing the spirit and personality of his subjects. “This job requires deftness, patience, and experience,” he explains. “As we only have white paper and black ink, we need to have a thorough understanding about painting techniques. A good painter can depict a person’s personality through a single brush stroke.” At times the photo available does not match the desired result. “Most people want to have a portrait with smiling and cheerful faces, so sometimes I have to make some changes from the original photos, but I still retain [the subject’s] main features and expression.” One of the most difficult challenges he has had was a request to draw a portrait of a late poet, but without a single photograph of the man. Nguyen was still able to recreate the poet’s likeness. “The poet’s grandson brought me only some photos of three generations of the family,” Nguyen remembers. “From these it was fairly easy to sketch out a portrait, but the problem was how to give the image some soul, some character. So I asked [the grandson] to read his grandfather’s poems while I was drawing. It was like a miracle, as if someone or something from elsewhere was giving me help. The grandson said his grandfather’s style and manner was perfectly depicted in the final portrait.”

A Different Perspective His customers have changed over the years. With the development of digital

photography, Nguyen is no longer required to regularly draw the portraits of the deceased. Instead customers come to him now for his art. Besides drawing portraits to order, Nguyen has also sketched images of his favourite film stars — Marilyn Monroe, Vivien Leigh and Clark Gable — as well as images of other famous icons. “Sometimes old fans of these stars, mostly foreign tourists, drop into my shop and buy their favourite star’s portrait,” he says. “Once an English customer brought in a small picture of Albert Einstein and asked me to redraw it. I was happy to do this because Einstein has also been one of my idols since I was a student. I love this picture of him.” With this fresh trade, and a new intake of customers, Nguyen continues to work hard, despite his age. He has even branched out from drawing, developing his own brushes made from materials such as cloth, cotton and bamboo. Although cheaper than buying the factory made versions, according to Nguyen they help him produce higher-quality drawings. Nguyen is happy with the course his life has taken and his success. “I am still receiving many orders, even though my drawings cost a lot,” he says with a smile. “In 2000 I was invited overseas to America, England and Japan to introduce my work. Since then many well-known people have become my customers including the Queen of Thailand and the American Ambassador.” And what about when it’s finally time for him to retire? Nguyen’s son, Bao Lan, has followed in his father’s footsteps and will take the business forward into the next generation.

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Tiêng viêt NGƯỜI MẤT TÍCH / CÂY TRỒNG VÀ THÀNH PHỐ

NGƯỜI MẤT TÍCH Neil Suarez đã chuyển tới thành phố Hồ Chí Minh trong nỗ lực tìm kiếm người chú mất tích của mình. Tháng này, ông gặp Jackie Kehoe để kể lại câu chuyện của mình

ào lúc 3 giờ sáng ngày 20/4/2012, Edwin de la Cruz – còn có tên là Bong - đã mất tích ở trung tâm Quận 1. Đi cùng mẹ và chị gái, Bong khởi hành chuyến đi từ Philippines đến Campuchia và có ghé ngang thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. Sau bốn ngày thăm gia đình, ba người đón xe buýt về lại Việt Nam, đến thành phố vào lúc 1 giờ sáng ngày 20/4. Họ ở lại khách sạn gần chợ Bến Thành, chuẩn bị đi vào sáng hôm sau. Họ không thể tiếp tục hành trình cho đến vài tuần sau và Bong sẽ không đi cùng với họ. “Trên xe buýt, Bong khẳng định rằng có một người đàn ông mang súng và chuẩn bị cướp.” - Chit, chị của anh nhớ lại. “Chúng tôi nhận thấy có gì đó không bình thường, nhưng sự nghi ngờ cũng mau chóng tan biến ngay sau đó.” Trong khi ở khách sạn, mọi chuyện không tốt hơn bao nhiêu. Tôi đang chuẩn bị ra ngoài, lấy xe và gọi lũ trẻ. Bong đã nói với họ như thế. Chị và mẹ của anh thấy khó hiểu bởi vì ba đứa con của anh đã trở về Philippines.

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“Anh ấy khóc khi chúng tôi nói chuyện trên Skype,” vợ anh, Emily kể lại (Emily lúc đó đang ở Manila). “Anh ấy rất nhớ gia đình. Anh ấy có thể không hiểu mình đang ở đâu, nhưng chắc chắn biết là mình đang đi tìm cái gì.” Lo lắng, hai người phụ nữ nhẹ nhàng nhắc anh rằng họ không phải đang ở Manila, không cần lấy xe hơi và chăm sóc lũ trẻ nào hết. Anh ấy giật mình do dự, làm người nhà không biết phải làm sao. Anh ấy biết mình là ai và họ là ai, nhưng rõ ràng mất phương hướng và bối rối. Không biết chuyện gì đang xảy ra, hai người phụ nữ đi ra ngoài rồi quay lại xem Bong có đỡ hơn không sau khi anh ấy hút thuốc. Nhưng họ không thấy anh đâu cả. “Chỉ mới 10 hoặc 15 phút nhưng anh ấy đã biến mất,” - Chit giải thích. Hai người phụ nữ lập tức gọi vợ và con gái của anh, Erika và Emily, để báo với họ. Họ lien lạc với nhau gần như mỗi tiếng, chủ yếu là động viên tinh thần nhau. “Chúng tôi không thể tin được. Và chúng tôi bắt đầu cầu nguyện ngay sau

đó,” - Erika nói. Người cuối cùng thây anh trong tình trạng tỉnh táo là nhân viên tiếp tân của khách sạn. Bong hành xử rất bình thường, thuốc lá trong tay, nhờ nhân viên mở cửa hộ vì khách sạn khóa cửa ban đêm.

Các Đầu Mối Neil Suarez, cháu của Bong, khi biết chuyện đã bỏ mọi thứ và lập tức tới thành phố Hồ Chí Minh để giúp tìm người cậu của mình. Anh lập tức làm các tờ rơi tìm người thân mất tích và báo cho tất cả đồn cảnh sát trong thành phố. Năm ngày sau Neil nhận được tin cậu của mình đã bị tạm giam vì gây rối trật tự khu dân cư ở quận 6 nhưng sau đó được thả ra và bảo hãy tự tìm đường về khách sạn của mình đi. Neil và gia đình đặt ra nhiều câu hỏi: làm sao anh ấy có thể tới được Quận 6? Và nếu cảnh sát Quận 1 không liên lạc với những nơi khác thì đâu là cách tốt nhất để tiếp tục tìm kiếm? Bong có 10 đô la và vài peso trong túi, anh có thể đi xa được tới đâu? Trong cùng ngày, Neil nhận được một

cuộc gọi. Hai ngày trước, một phụ nữ Philippines, khi dừng đèn đỏ tại gần đường Lý Thái Tổ lúc đi xe ôm đã thấy một người đàn ông Philippines, ngồi dưới bóng cây và trông có vẻ bị lạc. Họ nhìn nhau, cố gắng hiểu xem người kia đang làm gì. Cô gọi ngay khi biết được câu chuyện, nhưng đã quá trễ. Mặc dù vậy, từ đó đến bây giờ cô ấy đang sống cùng và giúp đỡ gia đình Bong. Neil bỏ nhiều ngày (và đêm) treo các tờ rơi vòng quanh thành phố và thậm chí chạy xe máy có dán ảnh cậu của mình và số điện thoại để gọi, mà bây giờ anh vẫn còn làm vậy. “Tôi làm việc liên tục. Tôi không ngủ. Tôi không ngủ được. Nguồn năng lượng của tôi trong nhiều tuần chính là adrenaline,” - anh nói. Nhiều cuộc điện thoại đổ về, nhưng chỉ toàn những thứ đã có thông tin rồi, hoặc còn tệ hơn, nhiều người chỉ tìm cách dễ dàng để kiếm tiền. Cuộc gọi đáng giá tiếp theo là một tuần sau đó: một người bán đồ lưu niệm trên đường được người đàn ông nước ngoài đến hỏi xin thuốc lá nhưng chỉ dùng cử chỉ bằng tay. Sau đó người nước ngoài này cố

gắng trả bằng tiền ngoại tệ không phải đồng hay đô la. “Đó nhất định là anh ấy,” - Neil nói rất chắc chắn. “Anh ấy hẳn chỉ còn vài đồng peso trong túi thôi.” Từ ngày đó, anh nhận được hàng trăm cuộc gọi từ mọi miền đất nước – từ Cần Thơ cho tới vịnh Hạ Long – nhưng không có cái nào chính xác cả.

Vẫn Còn Tìm Kiếm Neil, sáu tháng sau, vẫn giành phần lớn thời gian của mình đi tìm, nhưng đã mất dần nhiệt tình, ai cũng có thể hiểu được. Nhưng dù vậy, anh và gia đình tin Bong vẫn còn sống. Và anh nếu có một lý do rất thuyết phục rằng: một người nước ngoài chết, tin đồn sẽ lan truyền khắp nơi. Neil liên lạc với hầu như bất cứ ai và bất cứ nơi nào có thể có tin tức – bệnh viện, nhà cho người vô gia cư, đại sứ quán, văn phòng xuất cảnh, báo, đài truyền hình, vân vân. Cứ nói tên bất cứ nơi nào, Neil đều đã từng tới đó. Niềm tin này khiến anh tiếp tục tìm kiếm, anh không có ý định rời thành phố Hồ Chí Minh bây giờ.

Mặc dù rất nhiều người đã từng muốn kiếm lời từ sự đau khổ của gia đình anh, nhưng nhìn chung, có nhiều người cũng động viên và giúp đỡ nhiệt tình. “Tôi đã từng nghĩ đến mọi khía cạnh logic từ việc cầu xin tăng đoàn để được cưu mang bởi các thầy sư. Nhưng thực tế là có rất nhiều khả năng anh ấy vẫn còn sống,” - Neil giải thích. “Chúng tôi thường tự hỏi không biết anh ấy đang ở đâu và như thế nào. Liệu anh ấy có mái nhà để ở? Đồ để ăn? Nhưng chúng tôi vẫn không ngừng hy vọng,” - Chit nói. “Chúng tôi nhớ anh ấy mỗi khi dùng bữa, anh nấu ăn rất ngon,” - Erika và Emily nói trong nước mắt. “Chúng tôi vẫn cầu nguyện. Chúng tôi sẽ mãi luôn cầu nguyện.” Gia đình hy vọng mọi người hãy để ý. Giúp họ tìm kiếm và phổ biến tin này, đừng ngại gọi dù là ngày hay đêm. Hotline: 01285 601713 Sister Pascale: 0918 218356 Công An Xuất Nhập Cảnh: 0938 326939 Facebook: www.facebook.com/ EdwinBONGdelaCruz?fref=ts

Cây Trồng và Thành Phố Khi K hi bạn bạn sống sống ttrong rong một một rừng r ừng bê bê tông, tông , trở trở thành thành nngười gười làm làm vườn v ườn là là một một điều điều nên nên làm, làm, MiChael MiChael H Halloran alloran gặp gặp những những nngười g ười llàm àm vvườn ườn ssống ống ttại ại SSài ài G Gòn. òn. H Hình ình ảảnh nh bbởi ởi Adam Adam Astley. Astley.

ông viên ở thành phố Hồ Chí Minh là một nơi để tránh xa khói bụi và tiếng ồn của đường phố, thật dễ chịu khi đi dọc con đường dưới những tán cây cao che bóng mát. Nhưng đối với nhiều người, đó vẫn chưa đủ. Họ cần sống chung với cây cối. Có thể bạn sẽ là một trong những người này. Bạn có thấy muốn tự tạo ra một thế giới xanh của riêng mình chưa?

Gặp Người Làm Vườn Bản Xứ “Húng quế, húng quế tím, bạc hà, hương thảo, húng tây, kinh giới, xô thơm, thì là, thì là fennel, nhiều loại ớt và cà chua, chanh, chanh kaﬃr và các loại xà lách khác nhau,” Andreas Fagerkull liệt kê ra những loại cây ăn được anh đã trồng ở Việt Nam. “Bác sĩ khuyên tôi nên có một sở thích để thư giãn. Nhưng giờ sở thích này đã trở thành việc kinh doanh.” Hiện tại, Andreas bán những sản phẩm của mình trên Phú Mỹ Hưng Neighbours (một nhóm trên Google group). Với Jason Bednarz, sở thích làm vườn

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không đến ngay từ lúc đầu. “Khi còn nhỏ, tôi từng giúp bố tôi làm vườn,” anh nói. “Nhiề u năm sau tôi trở nên yêu thích nó. Bây giờ tôi có một ban công nhỏ với vài cây. Tôi gắn các hộp sắt vuông bên ngoài cửa sổ lớn của căn hộ mình.”

Nguồn Cung Cấp Bạn có thể mua các loai cây trang trí và cây cho hoa ở nhiề u nơi trong thành phố, nhưng ngư ời làm vườn mua hạt giống và dụng cụ ở đâu? Jason đưa ra vài ý tưởng. “Từ Quận 4 đến Quận 7, khi vừa qua cây cầu, ở bên phải có vài tiệm bán cây,” anh cho hay. “Tiệm đầu tiên có hạt giống các loại rau củ phổ biến ở Việt Nam. Một nơi tốt hơn là shop Gino, họ có rất nhiều lựa chọn về chậu cây, loại đất và phân bón khác nhau.” Shop Gino nằm trong một hẻm nhỏ trên đường Võ Thị Sáu, Q3. Cũng tốt như việc cung cấp, Gino còn có dịch vụ tư vấn, lớp học và hội thảo về làm vườn. Chủ cửa hàng này là Tiến Sĩ Nguyễn Thị Đào.

“Khách hàng thường thích rau củ, các loại cây, cái loại rau và xà lách, nhưng tôi lại thích trồng các cây xà lách.” – cô chia sẻ.

Bắt Đầu Từ Đâu… Trồng các nguyên liệu làm xà lách là cách tốt nhất để bắt đầu. “Hãy thử làm những gì tôi đã làm với khu vư ờn đầu tiên của mình. Nhìn vào tủ lạnh xem bạn có những gì: một trái cà chua cũ, một trái ớt hoặc ớt chuông khô, vài quả chanh dây. Chỉ cần để hạt của chúng khô lại một vài ngày, chôn vào đất, tưới nước và đợi. Ớt chuông và cà chua sẽ lên mầm nhanh. Hạt chanh dây sẽ phải ở trong đất ẩm một thời gian dài, có thể là một tháng hoặc hơn.” – Jason khuyên. Adreas tự nhận là không thích cách bắt đầu làm vườn của mình. “Tôi không nhớ là mình đã thất bại bao nhiêu lần nữa, tôi nghĩ lúc đó tôi nên tìm hiểu nhiều hơn,” - anh chia sẻ. Anh tiếp tục: “Đừng tưới quá nhiều nước hoặc bón quá nhiều phân cho cây. Bắt đầu

với những cây gia vị nhẹ (húng quế, bạc hà, ngò, v..v...) và cà chua. Và bắt đầu trồng ít thôi bạn không phải trồng một lúc mười loại cây. Chỉ với hai hoặc ba loại rau mùi và khi bạn cảm thấy chúng phát triển tốt, hãy trồng thêm những loại khác vào.” Cho người mới bắt đầu, Tiến Sĩ Nguyễn Thị Đào gợi ý phương pháp “Bảy ngày trồng hạt” như mầm bông cải xanh. Bạn có thể trồng chúng trong hộp bên cửa sổ. Rau diếp cũng tốt và chúng sẽ phát triển đầy đủ trong vòng 20-25 ngày. Gino có rất nhiều kiểu chậu và khay cũng như loại đất và phân bón, tất cả đều là hữu cơ. Đối với mầm, cô khuyên nên dùng khay cạn (sâu khoả ng 10cm), nhưng với cà chua và dưa leo, nên dùng chậu 10 lít.Jason trồng cà chua rất cẩn thận. “Theo kinh nghiệm của tôi, chúng không phải là loại cây để trồng trong điều kiện căn hộ, nếu bạn thực sự muốn thu hoạch trái. Chúng cần chậu lớn, nắng trực tiếp và cuối cùng, chúng thường sẽ có vỏ dày, sẽ không dùng cho món xà lách được. Thay vào đó, tôi đã phải dùng vài kí cà chua để làm sốt spaghetti. Có người bảo tôi cà chua sẽ hút nước khá nhanh, nên phải tưới nước. Nhưng chúng cũng không thích lúc nào cũng bị ướt, vì vậy chắc chắn sẽ tốt hơn khi trồng chúng vào mùa khô.” – anh giải thích Đối với Jason, trồng chanh dây là một thú vui đích thực, “một khi đã trồng được chúng”, thì trồng ớt là điều kế tiếp. "Khi bạn cần chút gia vị cho món nước mắm, không còn gì dễ hơn và với tay ra cửa sổ và lấy nó". Để để biết thêm thông tin chi tiết về Gino, xin ghé trang web www.ginovn.com hoặc đến cửa hàng ở địa chỉ 146/6A Võ Văn Tần,Q3.

KHU VƯỜN BẢY NGÀY Gino hướng dẫn cách làm và thu hoạch khu vườn của riêng bạn trong vòng bảy. ngày. 1/ Chọn một vài loại hạt giống: cà rốt trắng, hoa bìm bìm, hoa hướngdương, đậu, mè, cây cải dầu, cải thảo, bông cải xanh, rau dền hoặc bắp cải tím.

- Lấy phần đất còn dư ban đầu để phủ lên. Xịt một tí nước và dùng miếng bìa cứng phủ lên mặt đất trong 2 ngày. - Hạt sẽ lên mầm trong vòng 2 hoặc 3 ngày. Chuyển khay mầm ra chỗ có ánh sáng mặt trời hoặc dưới ánh đèn trực tiếp. Tránh mưa tạt vào. - Xịt một ít nước cho cây mỗi ngày.

5/ Thu hoạch: Sau năm tới bảy ngày cây 2/ Mua một vài loại chậu: khay nhựa với đáy có lỗ thoát nước hoặc chậu gốm

3/ Chọn loại đất: Gino khuyên nên dùng loại đất Ginut, nhẹ và xốp, giữ nước tốt.

mầm sẽ cao khoảng 8 đến 12cm. Bây giờ đã tới thời gian thu hoạch. Nhẹ nhàng lấy chúng ra khỏi đất và cắt rễ. Rửa rau mầm và bạn có thể dùng được ngay. Với 30g hạt giống bạn có thể thu hoạch được 400g đến 450g rau mầm sau khi đã cắt rễ.

4/ Trồng cây: - Bỏ đất vào chậu và tưới nước để đất ẩm - Bỏ một tí đất ra khỏi chậu và để một bên - Làm phẳng mặt đất - Gieo hạt lên trên đất

6/ Trồng lần tiếp theo: Bạn có thể sử dụng lại đất bằng cách lật đất lại và bỏ hết các rễ cây cũ đi. Thêm đất mới vào khoảng 2 đến 3cm và bắt đầu gieo hạt.

The Final Say DEAD HEAT / THE LAST CALL

Missing Person Neil Suarez has relocated to Ho Chi Minh City in an eﬀort to step up the search for his lost uncle. This month he sits down with Jackie Kehoe to tell his story

t 3am on Apr. 20, 2012, Edwin de la Cruz — known to his family as Bong — disappeared in the centre of District 1. Accompanied by his mother and elder sister, Bong had set off from the Philippines on a trip to Cambodia via Ho Chi Minh City. After four days visiting family, the tired three made the bus trip back to Vietnam arriving in the city at 1am on Apr. 20. They checked into a hotel near Ben Thanh Market, planning to check out the next morning. They would not make the journey until several weeks later and Bong would not be with them. “On the bus, Bong insisted that a man had a gun and a hold-up was about to take place,” Chit, his sister, remembers. “We noticed something was off, but his confusion came and went very quickly.” While at the hotel, it didn’t get any better. "I’m just going to go down, get the car, and grab the kids," Bong had said to them. His mother and sister were understandably confused because his three children were back in the Philippines. “He was crying while we were Skyping,” his wife, Emily, notes (Emily was back home in Manila at the time). “He missed his family so much. He may not have understood where he was, but he most definitely knew what he was looking for.” Worried, the two women gently reminded him that they were not in Manila; there was no car to get and no kids to take care of. He hesitantly backed off, leaving them at a loss as to what to say or do. He knew who he was and who they were, but he was clearly disoriented and confused. Not knowing quite

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what was going on, the two women left only to return to check on Bong briefly after he went out for a cigarette. He was nowhere to be found. “It had only been 10 or 15 minutes, but he was nowhere,” explains Chit. The two women quickly called his wife and daughter, Erika and Emily, to alert them. They would stay in contact nearly every hour, often just for moral support. “We couldn’t believe it. We immediately started praying,” says Erika. The last person to see him in a lucid state was the receptionist at the hotel. Bong’s behaviour was seemingly normal, cigarette in hand, asking for the doors to be unlocked because the gates were locked at night at the hotel.

Missed Leads Neil Suarez, Bong’s nephew, dropped everything and rushed to Ho Chi Minh City to help search for his uncle when he found out what was happening. He immediately made missing person flyers and contacted every single police station in every district in the city. It was five days later when Neil was told that his uncle had been picked up for causing a disturbance in a residential area in District 6 only to be dropped off shortly after and told to find his own way back to his hotel. For Neil and his family this posed a number of questions: How did he get all the way to District 6? And if the police stations in District 1 aren’t in contact with the others, what’s the best way to conduct their search? Bong had US$10 and some pesos in his

wallet, how far could he get? That same day, Neil received a phone call. A Filipino woman, while on a xe om, had spotted a Filipino man, looking lost under a tree while she was at a stoplight near the roundabout on Ly Thai To, two days before. They made eye contact, each trying to figure the other out. She made the phone call as soon as she heard the story, but by then it was too late. However, she’s been living with and helping the family ever since. Neil spent his days (and nights) putting up flyers around the city and even driving around on a motorbike plastered with his uncle’s image and a phone number to call, which he still drives to this day. “I was working around the clock. I wasn’t sleeping. I couldn’t sleep. For weeks I was running on adrenaline,” he says. Calls were pouring in, but they were all days after the fact or, worse still, people looking for an easy way to make money. The next legitimate phone call would be a week later: a man, selling tokens on the street, was approached by a foreigner asking for a cigarette using only hand gestures. The foreigner then attempted to pay with a currency other than dong or dollar. “That had to be him,” Neil says, adamantly. “He must have been down to the few pesos he had left in his wallet.” Since then, he has received hundreds of phone calls originating from all over the country — from Can Tho to Halong Bay — but to no avail.

Still Looking Neil, six months later, still spends the

majority of his time searching, but is losing steam, and understandably so. However, he and all his family believe Bong is still alive. And he makes a convincing case for it: if a foreigner were to be found dead, word would get around. Neil is in contact with virtually anyone and anywhere that might become leads — hospitals, homeless shelters, consulates, immigration offices, newspapers, television stations, etc. You name it, Neil has been there. This belief keeps him going; he doesn’t plan on leaving Ho Chi Minh City anytime soon. Though dozens of people have tried to benefit from his family’s struggle, overall, people have been supportive and eager to help. “I’ve considered every logical angle from begging syndicates to being taken in by a kindly monk. But the fact of the matter is that there’s a very good chance he is still alive,” Neil explains. “We often wonder not just where, but how he is. Does he have a roof over his head? Food to eat? But we’re not losing hope,” says Chit. “We remember him at every meal; he was such a good cook,” Erika and Emily add, between tears. “We’re still praying. We will always keep praying.” The family simply asks that everyone be mindful. Keep an eye out, spread the word, and do not hesitate to call, day or night. Hotline: 01285 601713 Sister Pascale: 0918 218356 Immigration Police: 0938 326939 Facebook: www.facebook.com/ EdwinBONGdelaCruz?fref=ts

CRIME FICTION SERIAL

DEAD HEAT Russell Kemp, an ex-captain in the South African police service and now a private detective, has teamed up with an ex-detective from the HCMC police force named Tran Hai Duong. The two men are investigating the murder of a Vietnamese woman by the name of Nguyen Hai Hien. All they know about the killer is that he is South African and that his ﬁrst name is Gerard…

Part 6: Modus Operandi Ex-detective Duong arrived without warning at Nguyen Ba Hoa’s apartment in Saigon Pearl at six-thirty in the morning. When the doorbell chimed Kemp was still in bed and Ba Hoa, who had found sleep difficult since the death of her twin sister, Hai Hien, was warming up some pho in the kitchen. In the living room Duong immediately

146 | Word December 2012

threw himself down on a couch and pulled out his cigarettes, then as swiftly put them away again when he saw the look that Ba Hoa was giving him. “Need cut down an’way,” he muttered. When Kemp walked in five minutes later, Ba Hoa had gone back into the kitchen and Duong was standing at the window gazing down at the river. “Ni view, Mitter Kemp,” he said. “Why are you here, Duong?” Kemp

asked. “As’ questions. Have news,” Duong said. The previous evening Duong had gone back to Dakao Ward police station in order to speak to Captain Le, the police officer investigating the murder of Nguyen Hai Hien. When Duong had informed the captain that he suspected that Hai Hien wasn’t the killer’s first victim, nor even the second, but that he had probably killed five or six times before that, Captain Le had

gone silent for a time. After that he had been considerably more helpful than on the occasion of their previous visit. “Cap’n Le say we combi forces,” Duong explained. That was when Ba Hoa stepped out of the kitchen again. “Is that what you’ve come to tell us, Mr Duong,” she said angrily, “that you now want us to work hand-in-hand with the police who, up until now, have done nothing to find my sister’s killer?” Duong shook his head, began speaking to her rapidly in Vietnamese. Eventually, Ba Hoa translated for Kemp. “Mr Duong has been very busy, it seems. He has interviewed relatives of four of the victims. He says he knows how the killer operates, his modus operandi, is that the right expression, Mr Kemp?” “Yes.” “First he befriends his victims — different places, different times, no pattern there, Duong says — then he takes them somewhere…” Kemp knew all this. “Yes, I know. But where does he take them?” “Duong thinks it could be a house in District 2, but that’s just a guess.” Old news again: “So why is he here?” “He says we need the passenger list for the flight my sister was on when she flew here from South Africa. He says that that list is very important because he thinks the killer came with her. He wants to know if you’ve got it yet.” “No, I haven’t.” “Why not?” A good question: it was just a shame he didn’t have a good answer. Once he’d worked for the Special Branch in South Africa. In those days when he’d asked questions the answers would come thick and fast, but now he was merely a lowly private detective... “These things take time…” “Maybe not have much time, Mitter Kemp,” Duong said ominously.

Le Van Tam Park Across the city in District 1 Gerard was taking an early morning stroll in Le Van Tam Park on Dien Bien Phu. This was where he had dumped the body of Nguyen Hai Hien and it always gave him a thrill

to revisit the scene of the crime; to know something the people around him didn’t know. This time, however, there was a difference: police officers were stationed outside all of the entrances and were stopping passers-by to ask them questions. The one that stopped Gerard even spoke passable English. Gerard managed to display just the right amount of concern when the policeman showed him Hai Hien’s picture. “No, officer,” he said, all serious, “I’m afraid I can’t help you.” That was when he recalled how difficult it had been to get Hai Hein off the back of his motorcycle and onto his shoulders that night, what with her body being so cold and already starting to stiffen; how, in the darkness, he had carried her fireman-style to a spot beneath the trees and laid her out with such careful precision. It felt so good to think that he knew so much and they knew so little. Later, inside the park when he stopped for a moment to fasten a shoelace, a young woman came up to him. Because he was bending forwards he didn’t see her until she was standing over him. At first she was merely a dark silhouette framed by a whitewhite sky, then he noticed her expensive running shoes, then her legs, graceful and smooth, then slender hips, and finally, the swell and curve of her breasts. “Hi,” she said, smiling, “’member me?” Yes, he remembered her. She was Bich, the girl from the apartment block where he lived. “You-me meet in lift,” she added. Her voice was gentle, fragile, he thought. He wanted to say, “You’re very beautiful,” but knew that was inappropriate, so in the end he said nothing. “See you from o’ there,” she said. She turned her back to him and pointed carefully as if it was a matter of some consequence, but he never took his eyes from her. She had her long dark hair pulled back from her face and he saw that the soft pink skin around her neck was flushed and filmed with perspiration. In the direction she indicated was a square of paved marble where a ballroom dancing class was in progress. Among the dancers a man and woman were practising Tai Chi impervious to the swirling movement around them.

“I want talk good English,” the young woman said. It was meant as a kind of excuse for coming up to him, but he didn’t reply so she added, “You Gerar, right?” Questions offended him. Shutters came down behind his eyes. “Gerard,” he corrected her. “Gerar,” she repeated. Standing upright he towered over her. She was smaller than he had first thought then he recalled that she had been wearing high-heeled shoes in the lift. They were the kind of shoes that his aunt Clara had once told him only prostitutes wore. “I have to get back,” he said. He motioned across the park. For a fleeting second he wanted her to go with him — it was her softness that was appealing. “Me a’so,” she said and they walked off together. Outside the apartment, she said, “My name Bich.” He said his own name again and they shook hands quite formally, him marvelling at the warmth and softness of her flesh, his whole arm tingling. She was smiling at him, but it was a prideful smile, he thought. It made him feel strong to know that he had the power to make the laughter stop. On impulse he said, “If you like, we could meet tomorrow night…for an English lesson…” “’Morrow nigh?” she repeated. “Yes. At a friend’s house.” “What fren’?” “Just a friend. He has lent me his house in District 2 for a few days. It’s down by the river. I could help you with your English. It’s very beautiful there.” She looked at him, struggled for a moment to understand his words then grinned again. “Yeah, good ide’,” she said finally. Find out what happens next in our January 2013 issue. This is a work of fiction. All names, characters and incidents are invented. Rob Marsh is the author of 30 published books (both fiction and non-fiction). He has a special interest in matters crime-related and is the author of Famous South African Crimes and With Criminal Intent: the changing face of crime in South Africa. He currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City.

December 2012 Word | 147

Th i

CA NH NG UY EN

Le Th an h

To n

Ly Tu Tr on g

on R iver

Sie u

Do ng Th iB Du uo i

Saig

Ng uy en

Th iS ac h

h Ci iep rc le gh N . H H.

Duc Ke

M ac

HU E

o Ng

Au Tri eu

Bitexco Tower

TON DUC T HANG

Ng .T hie p

hie p

LE LO I

HU U

Ng an

LE DU AN Ng uy en Du Le Th an h

To n

Ly Tu Tr on g

Tr un g

KH AI TH IM IN H

NG UY EN Ng uy en

Ng uy en

Ch ieu

AS T-W ES TH IGH WA

DA O TR AN

Bu i

EL TUNN HIEM T U H T

-E

N VA

Ph u M y H u n g / / N h a B e / / Ca n G i o / / Ph u M y B r i d g e / / Q 7

T KIE DO AN VA N

Q4 BO

IEU GD AN HO

ANH T TH N TA UYE NG

Tru ng o nC ye u Ng VO

c Ba Co

u g Tr Con n e y Ngu

nh Bi

NGU YEN TRA I

c Thu

KH IEM

ai Th

n Co Ky

h Trin

sin Yer

ham De T

u Da

HU NG

Xu an

KH AI TH IM IN H

Su on gN gu ye tA nh

Ta n

Va n

Vo NG UY EN

m Ga

ET LM CA

So nH a

Di nh

Va n

Ch ieu

Di nh

Ng uy en

NG UY EN

HAM NGHI

en uy Ng C HO AI TH EN UY NG

g an Qu Do

Ng uy en

Huyn h

g on iH h T Le

23/9 Pa r k

n Vie Bui

Cu Ng.

Market

g an Kh

BI NH

Lu ng

KH OI

Le Cong Kieu

Lao Ngu m a Ph g an Qu Do

C ho Lo n / / Q5 & Q 6

DO NG

That T Ton

inh Ch uc oD Ph

Kh anh

Con gQ uyn h

AI LE L

m Tha De

Hu u

ng La V. u Lu

Pham Hong Thai

I RA NT E UY NG

Pa r k H yatt

au gM Tun Ho m t Da Tha Ton

rinh uT Ch an Ph

g on

h an Ch t e Vi

Le Thi Rieng

To nT ha tT un g

Tr uc

on B e n hT an h Tha nh T Le h nN .A Ng

Va n

Saigon Zo o

Saigon Bridge // Th u Th i e m B r i d g e / / An Phu // Q2 N

Tri nh

Vi ncom Ce nt re

KH OI

r teu Pas ia Ngh hoi Ky K Nam

ien

Ca oT ha ng

Tu Ly

ng Tro

Th ai

TR UN G

Tr un g

u ha iC Bo an Ph

Di nh

DO NG

Ng uy en

uan aH

u nD ye u Ng

Tr uo ng

Ta o D a n Pa r k

TAM

Duc Ba Cathedral

Re u ni fic a t i on

Hu Pa la ce ye nT ra nC on gC hu a

Th uK

DU CT HA NG

Ku m ho Pla z a HA IB A

Ha n

KH AI TH IM IN H NG UY EN

Ng uy en Th iD ieu

Hu on g

CA CH MA NG TH AN G

Ng uy en

Ca o Al ex an dr e

Nh iem Ng o

Xu an Ho

Qu an

TO N

Tr an

Do n

Th oi

BI EN

DI EN

Ba Hu ye nT ha nh

Va nT hu

Ng uy en

en uy g N

DU Th AN uy en

Qu y

Ch i

D i a m ond Pla z a

Din h

ho iN gh ia

NG UY EN

HO AN G

Ch uM an h

de Rh od es LE

TIE N

Ch ieu

Ky K

Ta n

Na m

Ng oc Th ac h

Va n

N Do n

Th ao

Q3 am Ph

Qu y

g on Xu

N Pa ste ur

M ac Di nh

Kh oa n

Di nh

Tu Qu oc

DI E

TH IS AU VO

Tran Qu

cT oa n

Tha ng

TH IS AU

Tra n

HA IB AT RU NG

Kh ac

DI NH

M e Li n

Tan Binh // Cu Chi // Cambodia

PP ha m

Ph un g

Qu ye n

Le Ng oC at

g on Xu

Ng uye Tu nT ho ng

KH OI NG HI A

Le Van Ta m Pa r k

Tru on g

Van

Ba Hu yen Th an hQ ua n Ly C hin h

Airport

H ng uo Th en uy Ng

148 | Word December 2012

Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 - F3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Q3 - A4, A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D1, D2, E1 Nguyen Du, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C5, D3, D5 Nguyen Hue, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Nguyen Huu Canh, Q1 - A7, B7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 - C6 Nguyen Son Ha, Q3 - E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 - E7, F7 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 - E5, F4 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 - E4, F4, F5 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 - C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 - A5, A6, B4, B5, C3, C4, D2, D3, E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Thong, Q3 - B1, C1, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q3 - D1, E2 Nguyen Trai, Q1 - E2, E3, F2 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 - A7, B6 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 - D5 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 - A4 Pasteur, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, D6, E6 Pham Hong Thai, Q1 - E4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1, Q3 - A3, A4, B4, B5 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 - E3, E4, E5, F2, F3 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1 - E1, F1 Phan Boi Chau, Q1 - D5 Phan Chau Trinh, Q1 - D5 Pho Duc Chanh, Q1 - E5, F5, F6 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 - A4, A5 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 - D2, D3, E2 Thai Van Lung, Q1 - B6, C6 Thi Sach, Q1 - C6, C7 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 - D4, D5 Thu Thiem Tuunnel, E7 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 - A6, B6, B7, C7, D7, E7 Ton That Dam, Q1 - D6, E6 Ton That Thiep, Q1 - D6 Ton That Tung, Q1 - E2 Tran Cao Van, Q1 - A5, B4 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 - E4, E5, F3, F4 Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 - A1, A2, B2, B3, C3 Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 - A2, B2 Truong DInh, Q1, Q3 - B1, B2, C2, C3, D3, D4, E4 Truong Quyen, Q3 - A3, A4 Tu Xuong, Q3 - A3, B2, C1 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 - A2, A3, B1, B2, C1 Vo Van Kiet ( East West Highway) - E6, F5, F6 Vo Van Tan, Q3 - B4, C3, C4, D2, E1, E2 Vuon Chuoi, Q3 - D1 Yershin, Q1 - E4, F5

i uo Ch on Vu

Alexandre De Rhodes, Q1 - B5, C4 Au Trieu, Q1 - D6, E6 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 - B1, C2, D3 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 - D3, E2, E3 Bui Vien, Q1 - F3, F4 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1, Q3 - C1, D2, D3 Calmette, Q1 - E5, F5 Cao Thang, Q10 - E1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 - B6 Co Bac, Q1 - F4 Cong Huynh, Q1 - E1, E2, F2, F3 De Tham, Q1 - E4, F4 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Q3 - A4, B2, B3, C1, C2, D1 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 - A5, A6 Do Quang Dau, Q1 - F3 Doan Van Bo, Q4 - F6 Dong Du, Q1 - C6, D6 Dong Khoi, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Hai Ba Trung Q1 - A3, A4, B5, C6, C7 Ham Nghi, Q1 - E5, E6, E7 Han Thuyen, Q1 - C5 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 - D6, D7 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 - D6, E6 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3 - C2, D2 Hoang Dieu, Q4 - F6, F7 Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1 - C4, D4 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 - D6, E5 Ky Con, Q1 - E4, E5, F5 Ky Dong, Q3 - A1, B1 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 - E5 Le Duan, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C4, C5 Le Lai, Q1 - E3, E4, E5 Le Loi, Q1 - C6, D5, D6 Le Ngo Cat, Q3 - C1, C2 Le Quy Don, Q3 - B2, B3 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 - B6, B7, C5, C6, D4, D5, E4 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 - E4, E5 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 - E3 Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 - E2 Luu Van Lang, Q1 - D5 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 - A1, B1, C1 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 - B6, C5, C6, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 - A4, A5, B5, B6 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 - C6, D6 Me Linh Circle, Q1 - D7 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, E5, E6 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 - D6, D7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 - B2, B3, C2 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 - B7 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 - D4, D5, E4 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 - A6, A7 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 - E5, E5, F4, F5

g Sa Truon ng Sa H oa

Ky Do ng

CENTRAL HCMC

NA M

hinh Thang Ly C

Street Index

IE N

{crossword}

Photo of the Month

Answers on page 4

THE MIDDLE AGES 1

20 1

by Gia Vu Phan

131

ACROSS 1. Medieval slaves required to render services to a 6-Across 6. Manor owner of the Middle Ages 10. Angry crowd 13. Vast body of water 14. Computer users' correspondence: Hyph. 16. "You ____ what you eat" 17. Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, 800-14 19. Acquire 20. Sent to the canvas, in boxing slang 21. President Reagan, for short 22. Forbidden things: Hyph. 24. Rotate 26. Coke or Pepsi 27. Person who easily becomes

37 1

1 1

160 61

1 1

150 | Word December 2012

1 1

sentimental 30. School org. 32. Behaves 35. Pertaining to 36. French national heroine who ended the siege of Orleans in 1428: 3 wds. 38. Actor ____ Diamond Phillips 39. Medieval English poet who wrote "The Canterbury Tales" 41. ____ de Janeiro, Brazil 42. Shopkeepers who were common in the Middle Ages 44. Discourage 46. Pale in the face 47. "For ____ a jolly good fellow" 48. Ten-year period 49. Meat-grading org. 51. Cruel Roman emperor 52. "We ____ please!": 2 wds.

55 56

54. Bartender on "The Simpsons" 55. Sit-ups strengthen them 58. ____-Cone (icy treat) 59. Affliction that killed an estimated quarter of Europe's population in the 14th century: 2 wds. 64. Hundred Years' ____ (conflict between England and France, 1337-1453) 65. Stringed instrument of India 66. Grown-up 67. Naval officer: Abbr. 68. See 51-Down 69. St. Thomas Aquinas and St. Francis of Assisi, for example DOWN 1. Footwear item

2. Reverberation 3. Enjoy the novel 4. ____ East (where MArco Polo traveled in the 13th and 14th centuries) 5. Weekend comedy series, for short 6. Sour fruit 7. Country west of the Arabian Sea 8. Dustcloth 9. Loud noise 10. Document of English liberties sealed in 1215: 2 wds 11. Black-and-white cookie 12. Wagers 15. Joke-teller Jay 18. Fourth largest Great Lake 23. Norwegian king (1016-29) who became Norway's patron saint 24. Letters after R 25. Curve ball, for one 26. Walking stick 27. "Dogma" actress Hayek 28. Double-reed instruments 29. In medieval physiology, the elemental fluids blood, phlegm, black bile and yellow bile: 2 wds. 30. Sullen looks 31. Tic ____ (tiny breath mints) 33. Took a stab at 34. Make a touchdown, for example 36. "Sense and Sensibility" novelist Austen 37. " ____ in the court!" 40. "Very funny": 2 wds. 43. Abnormal sac 45. ____-friendly (safe for the enviroment) 48. Low-pitched, as a voice 50. Scooby-Doo, Benji and Pluto 51. With 68-Across, Gothic cathedral in 1163 52. "It's the end of the world ____ know it!": 2 wds. 53. ____ instant (suddenly): 2 wds. 54. Polite thing to call a woman 55. "Son of ____ !": 2 wds. 56. Gain muscle mass, with "up" 60. Get ____ of (throw away) 61. Seventh Greek letter 62. On the ____ (fleeing) 63. Commotion

Do y phot ou own o woul graph t a hat d loo k here ? Em good to c ail it word hristine@ hcmc .com

Gold Light (taken at the Saigon Zoo)

{trivia buff} Answers on page 2

1) By what name was Steve Irwin more commonly known? 2) What was advertised on TV with the slogan: "The bank that likes to say yes"? 3) Who starred in Remains of the Day and Shadowlands?

Moonglows with Motown boss Berry Gordy's brother-in-law Harvey Fuqua?

14) If you have amnesia what have you damaged?

8) Who invented the gramophone?

15) What is considered to be the least nutritious fruit or vegetable?

9) Who is credited with writing the poem The Owl and The Pussycat?

16) What company is the biggest producer of digital cameras in the world?

4) What is the capital of New Zealand?

10) The average person spends 8 years of their life doing what?

17) Who was the first female DJ on Radio 1?

5) What European country withdrew its forces from NATO in 1975?

11) Butthole Surfers were formerly known As 'Ashtray Baby Heads' Or 'Aliens Must Die'?

18) Who Had A Hit With The Song Celebration?

6) The SAA is a help organisation founded in 1972. If you got in touch with The SAA who would you expect to contact?

12) What is the name for meat killed in the prescribed Muslim manner?

19) What soap star wrote Prime Time?

7) What singer began his career in The

13) What US state flag has a UK Union Flag on it?

20) What acid was first prepared from distilled red ants?

December 2012 Word | 151

the LAST CALL

It’s Christmas time and although we all know and love Santa, Word decided to dig a little deeper. Does the fat jolly man in the red and white party suit have a darker side?

EVERY CHRISTMAS... I think about outsourcing my job to someone in India or Vietnam. SNOWFLAKES TASTE LIKE... acid rain these days.

LIFE IN THE NORTH POLE IS... miserable. The Wi-Fi is bad and there aren’t any decent places to party. And Frosty the Snowman is a know-it-all.

DELIVERING GIFTS TO SAIGON... is a touch tricky. I keep getting pulled over because I don’t have a license for the sleigh and Rudolph is an endangered species.

HAVING NO CHIMNEYS... is not a problem. I can crawl through windows and pick locks to get in.

MY REINDEER... are getting old and slow. I might trade them in for a Honda Air Blade instead. The mileage seems better.

ON THE NAUGHTY LIST ARE…

JINGLE BELLS... messes with my SatNav.

Bieber, Romney, Petraeus, Kony, Kim Kardashian and the latest Twilight movie.

CHILDREN... still seem to believe I exist even though the facts prove otherwise.

SAYING ‘HO, HO, HO’ ALL THE TIME...

IF MY MUM COULD SEE ME NOW... she

gets me in trouble with the ladies.

would tell me to lose weight, stand up straight and get a better job.

PULLING MY BEARD... is a no no. I don’t pull your hair, so don’t pull mine. It’s not funny, you know.

LIVING IN A GROTTO... is a fallacy. I live in a very well-appointed castle, thank you very much.

1152 52 | W Word Wo or D ord December ece cemb mber 2 2012 0112

THE DAY AFTER CHRISTMAS… I get drunk.

SEND YOUR LETTERS AND WISH LISTS TO... don't send letters, email me. I'm going digital next year.