Word HCMC June Issues by Word Vietnam

Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

June 2013

Entrepreneurs Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Động

Contents

wordhcmc.com

JUNE 2013

036

090

042

052

006 | The Prelude THE TALK 009 | The Big Five

FEATURES

018 | The Band Dengue Fever brings

some flavour

020 | To the Day... The monk who

burned

024 | The Buzz

Arranging nature’s rainbow

048

A Meaningful Memento

Viet Artisans create good memories, both for gift-buyers and the women they help

052

080

first dance fest in Vietnam

040 | The Power of Touch

Porter Lynn talks nails

084

The japanese special

Finding Tokyo in Ho Chi Minh City

090

2 | Word June 2013

The treatment

We put our writers through the best beauty miracles this city has to offer

096

Supersize Me

Our guinea pig writer bulks up, Ben Style

100

The sporting life

102

Chasing the sun

042 | The Rite of Spring Legendary choreographer Jean Claude Gallotta comes to town

Kerala

A trip to ‘God’s Own Country’

030 | Calendar

INSIDER 036 | A dOSe of Escape Word’s guide to the

entrepreneurs

For this month’s cover we check out the hearts of Vietnam’s economic engine

028 | In the Papers

032 | Overscene

the flower lady

044

010 | Just In

Getting fit in Thao Dien

Vietnam’s first all-night party

104

Style ambassadors

The fashion trailblazers of Vietnam

We follow the electro- house legend on his recent visit to Saigon

164 | One Too Many

Those Thao Dien gardens are hiding secrets

168 | Last Call Dror Lam tells us

what harmony means in her life

014 2 3 1 0 2 R EA Y C I M E D A T AC N E M L O R EN

Renaissance is an International British School offering places in Early Years - Primary - Secondary.

Apply to secure a full-time place. EARLY YEARS

PRIMARY

SECONDARY

Address: 74 Nguyen Thi Thap St., Binh Thuan Ward District 7, Ho Chi Minh City, Viet Nam Tel: (+84-8) 377 33 171 - ext 120

Email: admissions@renaissance.edu.vn

Our school will be offering Renaissance Scholarships to the value of 9 billion VNĂ? for high academic achievers for year 2013-2014

www.renaissance.edu.vn

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL MADs monsen Art Director mads@wordhcmc.com

alexandre garel Photo Editor alex@wordhcmc.com

Ed Weinberg Deputy Editor ed@wordhcmc.com

kyle phanroy Staff Photographer kyle@wordhcmc.com

derek milroy Features Editor derek@wordhcmc.com

nguyen tan loc Layout Designer loc@wordhcmc.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis@wordhcmc.com

nick ross Chief Editor nick@wordhcmc.com

ADMINISTRATION Duong Vy Bao General Director bao@wordhcmc.com / bao@wordhanoi.com

Le Dang Phuong Trang Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

ADVERTISING Duong Thi Thanh Xuan Sales Manager xuan@wordhcmc.com

mark allan Graphic Designer designer@wordhcmc.com

DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordhcmc.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS accountant@wordhcmc.com

For advertising enquiries please call Xuan on +84 1227 055122 or Bao on +84 938 609 689 Special thanks to Harvey Morrison, Karen Hewell, Harry Hodge, Phil Kelly, Jeff Bonnin, Shane Dillon, Seamus Butler, Rob Marsh, Fabiola Buchele, Jessica Shea, Matt Bender, Evan Hudson, Hoa Le, Tess Somerville, Kristin Zimmer and Matt D

Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word (Ho Chi Minh city và HaNoi) của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

Chuyên Đề Du Lịch & Ẩm Thực Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

4 | Word June 2013

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Công Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Quận 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com

In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 362/CBX-QLXB ngày 04/02/2013 Quyết định xuất bản số 157 / QĐCN-LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 08/05/2013 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2013.

The Prelude W

hen we started the predecessor of The Word, Saigon Inside Out, we modelled the publication on Time Out London. Using the iconic ‘what’s on’ guide as our starting point, we adapted our own offering to the specific conditions of Ho Chi Minh City in 2005. Instead of a whole section with events listings, we created a directory with listings for bars, restaurants, hotels, leisure options and more. We also moved the feature content away from specific events happening in and around the city — focusing more on lifestyle and providing information for people in the dark. The key, though, was to create a city mag, a

publication that would be a vital resource for anyone living in this at-times overwhelming metropolis. Eight years on and we are about to embark upon a huge change. Our two publications, Word Ha Noi and Word Ho Chi Minh City, are being combined and in July we will go national with a new title, Word Vietnam. This doesn’t mean we will lose our local edge, far from it. Together with a new website that will be launched at the beginning of July, both cities will be equally catered to in the new publication. We will also use this increased focus to cover the whole country in a way that we believe Vietnam hasn’t been covered before. These are exciting times for us, but they wouldn’t have

INBOX Thick or Thin? Good variety of articles, not finished reading yet. But whoever wrote the snippet on The Pizza Company is illiterate and surely must be fired. (The Pizza Company, Page 14, May 2013) LOL. Just rubbish copy and out of place in your mag. Secondly, I am not the only person with reasonable taste to have become angered by the ridiculous assertion, expressed as a statement of fact, that the best pizzas have thick bases. Recently we had another of Mueller’s customary howlers in your buddy’s rag. “The pizza was invented in Italy but perfected in New York”. It was a review of a restaurant in The Crescent in Phu My Hung. My American friends, many of whom also hate thick-base pizzas, tell me that this stodgy variation on the proper original was in fact developed in Chicago. — AH

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been possible without our staff, the people who have helped us develop our two publications into what they are today. So for all those both past and present who have played a part in getting us to where we are in 2013, a huge unreserved thank you. You have been the lifeblood of our two publications, the reason we have been able to tick. Words cannot say enough how much we appreciate the work you have put in. In the meantime we hope you enjoy this issue. It’s the last time you will hold Word in its present form in your hands. As ever, if you have any comments, please drop us a line on editor@ wordvietnam.com.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

JUNE 2013

Entrepreneurs NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo by Alexandre Garel

Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us AT EDITOR@wordhcmc.com — we’re now at your fingertips.

Oops! Thanks for the nice article about our National Day celebration. (The Bretons of Vietnam, page 26, May 2013) We are a very open-minded region and welcome people from everywhere, even if they wear a Ukrainian national costume, just like the two people on the picture. The Breton national costume was just two pictures down on the same website. I had a good laugh thanks to that. — Benoit Glon A Green City A big sincere acknowledgement to your article in the May edition on going green (A Degree Above, page 8). As a design firm, all partners and associates of GSD feel the same way when it comes to planning and developing the future of Vietnam and Southeast Asia. Just because it is a developing region, it doesn’t mean it needs to underestimate the importance of ecosystematic planning and sustainable growth. — Tina Lund, GSD Consultancy What? Your covers have been really good recently, but what WAS that on the front of your magazine this month (May 2013)? No focus, no concept and a terrible idea all round. — RR

The Talk Illustration by Melanie Elfert

thE big 5 / Just in / the buzz / calendar / overscene

Amazing Grapes Premium wine sales in Vietnam are bucking the trend

wo wine dinners in two different cities, six months apart and both with a focus on premium wines. The first is organised by distributor Daloc at the Park Hyatt in Saigon. They have brought in the owner of a grand cru from Bordeaux, Henri Lurton, and together with a four-course dinner at the Hyatt’s Square One, we get to sample three vintages of Chateau Brane Cantenac, the oldest from 1995. The wines cost hundreds of dollars a bottle. It is a treat. The second wine dinner has a different flavour. Instead of Bordeaux reds we are

8 | Word June 2013

sampling top-end Australian wines, a new world flavour hosted by Jackson’s steakhouse in Hanoi. Distributed by The Warehouse, on the table are wines by Jansz, Giaconda, Yalumba, John Duval, Henschke and Rockford. The price point for some of these hits the VND4 million or VND5 million realm and once again, there is a real element of pleasure to tasting such great wines. It is an extravagance, an extravagance we are told that in these times few of us can afford.

Hard Done By? Yet the fact that both these events are

happening during a period of relative economic hardship says much. In the west the bottom has largely dropped out of the market for premium wines — you only need to look at the well-documented travails of Australian vineyards to see the effects of the global downturn. So the producers are instead turning their attentions to Asia, whose economies have largely escaped the cycle of borrowing, bankruptcy and unpayable debt. Here there is a strong market for premium products, so strong in fact that many of the grand cru producers are now focusing on China and the countries in its vicinity. Henri Lurton concurs. “We have never seen such an explosion of exports globally,” he explains. “The demand in China for some labels has been phenomenal. It’s a new market for wine. There are some people who know what they like. But there are more who only know price.” And indeed price is part of the reason for the popularity. The need to spend on top-end products is part of an Asian desire to live ‘the luxury lifestyle’ — the more expensive, so the theory goes, the better the quality. It’s a trend that Vietnam has taken on in equal proportions.

Bring Your Own Yet as many a restaurateur will attest, testing times have led to a change in spending habits, particularly on the dining front. Bien Nguyen, the man behind Xu in Saigon, and part of the management team of 1911 in Hanoi, saw 2012 as “a medium to cheap market for wines”. It is, he says, a reflection of the subdued economy. Yet, when there is “corporate entertaining and special occasions put on by the wealthy socialites, we see the Crystals and grand cru come out.” He adds: “These people with money are always looking for value. They have great wine at home. So they’ll most likely bring in their own wine and pay the corkage fee.” With the economic slowdown in Vietnam, it may seem surprising that the market for top-end wines is still ticking along. Yet going premium is aspirational, and once you have a taste for the good stuff, it’s difficult to make a retreat. Instead the belt-tightening has come in a different form — bring your own. The VND300,000 to VND400,000 paid in corkage amounts to a saving that is keeping the retail industry bubbling along, although what the restaurateurs who no longer make the huge mark-ups think about it, is another matter. — Nick Ross

THE

big A dOSe of Escape

watch out out for for this this month month Things to watch

Football For All From Jun. 8 to Jun. 11, the centre of Vietnam’s football universe will be Hue, where an estimated 3,800 adolescent footballers spread over 341 teams will kick, slide-tackle and “nutmeg” their way to fun on eight primo pitches. Through the four days of the Norwaybacked Football For All Vietnam tournament, players and fans can enjoy life skill-building games like drawing pictures of the environment and playing bomb prevention games. Football For All Vietnam’s 10th tournament will be held from Jun. 8 to Jun. 11 in Hue. For more info, click on ffav. com.vn

Michelin Stars Over Saigon From Jun. 4 to Jun. 8, Michel Roux won’t be the only Michelin Starred chef in Vietnam. Richard Toix, bringing his Michelin Star cred all the way from the south of France, will host a “gastronomic week” at Sofitel Saigon Plaza’s L’Olivier Restaurant, rocking set meals from VND680,000++ on up. On the last day of his stay, he will host a cooking class — VND850,000++ per person, including lunch. Sofitel Saigon Plaza is at 17 Le Duan, Q1. The cooking class is set for 10.30am, Jun. 8, and costs VND850,000++ per person. For more info or to book, call Ms. An on (08) 3824 1555

Over 30 DJs, 5,000 people, two stages, one party. The first ever dance music festival in Vietnam, A dOSe of Escape 2013, will hit Diamond Island in District 2 on Jun. 15. With doors opening at 2pm and the festivities running until late, prepare to dance yourself away to the beats and tunes of both local and international DJs. Appearing on the day will be well-known Vietnam-based mixmeisters and sound architects including Scrambled Edge, DMC All Stars, DJ Shine, Drew, Glaser, Nic Ford, Jase, Kaiser T, Duy Duy, Tio, Myno, Tuan Kruise, Konka, L Bass, Everyone’s a DJ, Kenzo Trinh, Max Cleo and a lot more, while the special guest international DJs include Kimkat (US) and Octave Harmonic Station (South Africa). A foam party, pool party, fire dancing, inflatable toys, beatboxers, breakdancers, go-go dancers and even a car and motorbike show will all be part of the festivities, making this into a true dance music festival like Exit, Sonar, Electric Zoo, Bestival and Zoukout — and like nothing Saigon has seen before. For advance tickets and VIP table bookings, email escape@wordhcmc.com or call 0938 609689 (Bao) and 01227 055122 (Xuan). Entrance to the dance festival is VND200,000 per person including one drink. See our feature article on the festival on page 36

A Legend Comes to Town Stravinsky’s La Sacre du Printemps (The Rite of Spring) will be performed on Jun. 27 in Ho Chi Minh City and Jun. 29 in Hanoi, with 19 dancers exploring the “carnal and explosive” qualities of Stravinsky’s compositions. Galotta — in deep inspirational debt to Stravinsky’s music — brings his clean lines and agitated movements to a performance which highlights the “seraphic figures, sensual shadows, tormented bodies, forbidden awakenings, unexplained agitation and disturbing palpitations” inside his own daring vision. Le Sacre du Printemps will be performed at Ben Thanh Theatre at 6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 on Jun. 27, 8pm. See our interview with Jean-Claude Gallotta on page 42

Comedy Comes to Cargo Saigon Comedy Nights is changing it up this month. Not only with two new touring comedians — quick-firing Chortle Award winner from the UK, Stephen Grant, and Aussie vet Steve Allison, a man who’s logged over a million km on the comedy circuit — but also in a new, more casual space, Cargo Bar. This is good news for those of you out there who like to enjoy your comedy the way it should be enjoyed, alongside a million reasonablypriced beers. And what’s more, in his last appearance before transporting his deadpan veneer to the metropolis of Shanghai, will be Merseyside regular and reformed car thief, Chris Baker. There will be a BBQ, with some “recently deceased animals that we would love to promise you died laughing”. And did we mention Stephen Grant — the man who made history in 2010 by winning a lawsuit against his ex-wife, allowing him to joke about his divorce? Hecklers, be warned — if the law couldn’t stop him, what chance do you have? Saigon Comedy Nights is coming to Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, 8pm on Jun. 14. Entry costs VND250,000, with one free beer accompanying the belly laughs

June 2013 Word | 9

Just In The Positive Energy is All Around Us At the Pho Cap School for street children in Binh Thanh, Barabara Pellizzari Anchisi tries to make this a fact. The art projects she runs at the school — and the ones that will hang at her show Cargo at deciBel, starting Jun. 6 — are informed by the mix of colour and sound that envelops her every time she steps outside. This medley, combined with the infinite paths water traffic takes in and around it, are the theme of her latest works, expressed by using a combination of printmaking and tempera technique on Chinese paper. Cargo will open Jun. 6 at 7pm at deciBel, 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1

VietExpat.TV You’re British, and of course you’re missing Soccer Saturday on Sky. It used to be slim pickings in Vietnam, that is, before now. VietExpat.TV is coming at you live and on demand from your choice of software player, mobile player or set-top box — no VPN, proxy or satellite required. Get your free two-day trial at vietexpat.tv

Cajun Cua Just the name alone is enough to get the juices mashing. Cajun Cua, a new restaurant with an outlet in downtown Saigon, kind of speaks for itself. Selling live, fresh seafood with a Cajun edge — we can attest to the freshness of the seafood — the focus here is on getting dirty.

Seafood, crab cracking-style dirty. Served up “picnic style” on a tablecloth of white paper, the seafood comes with a choice of four sauces. Californianstyle Cajun, beer, garlic and butter, and oyster and basil. It’s messy, seriously messy, but that’s all part of the point. And it oozes with taste, too. Take the swimming crab (ghe) or the clams and shrimps. Coming in a combo costing VND300,000 (0.5kg) or VND500,000 (1kg), the fare comes mixed in with corn on the cob, German sausage and sweet potato. Also on the menu is crab (cua), Fin de Claire oysters, Canadian lobster and sweet potato fries served up with Cajun spices. Even the beer has that picnicky feel, served with ice in plastic cups. Cajun Cua is at 267 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 (Vietnamese Quan Nhau), Tel: 0902 959645. A second outlet will soon by opened in Phu My Hung.

A Moment in Nature

A New Resort Comes to the Coast

Bui Suoi Hoa, a local contemporary painter whose poet father’s legacy colours her passion for Vietnamese cultural heritage, is swiping her fierce brush strokes on the walls of VinGallery in June. With intense colours and abstract, bold compositions, her works are highly introspective and spiritual. Within these confines, “they illuminate not only the beautiful but also the tragic moments in nature, and in our lives”. The exhibition opens Jun. 14, 6pm to 8pm, at VinGallery, 4 Le Van Mien, Q2 and runs between Jun. 11 and 18

Pulchra Resort Danang — named after the Latin word for ‘beauty’ — has just opened its 31 luxurious, beachside villas to the world. The Japan-backed Pulchra is just the second embarked upon by P&I Enterprise, the other being 17-year-old Pulchra Cebu in the Philippines. The resort’s design draws on the Cham heritage of the region and could be a gateway for Japanese nationals to discover the rich, UNESCO Heritage-specked middle of Vietnam — which seems set to capitalise on direct flights between Japan and Danang, hovering somewhere in the indeterminate future. Catch a glimpse of the view at pulchraresorts.com/vietnam

High Adventure in Colonial Vietnam Cruising the high seas on one of Emeraude Classic Cruises vessels, you might not realise the history you’re riding on. The original Emeraude cruised Halong Bay from 1906 to 1937, at the behest of three fortune-seeking French brothers in colonial Indochina. Surrounding them was all the intrigue and drama of the French expansion into greater Vietnam. Eric Merlin, whose research drives the story told in The Jewels of Halong Bay, first became fascinated with the iconic paddleboat from a postcard found in a Paris flea market in 1999, and his own story involves the building of a latter-day Emeraude in 2003. For more info or to pick up a copy of the book, retailing for VND315,000, visit emeraude-cruises.com

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{ nerd's World} ** We’re All Kinected * *

ate last month, Microsoft officially announced the soon-to-be-released Xbox One. Three months after Sony’s announcement of PlayStation 4, we saw the ways Xbox One could revolutionise the gaming industry and life itself. With constant advances in the technology surrounding us, is it possible that something created for the sole purpose of entertainment could change everything in our day-to-day lives? While the new system is packing many updates, the Xbox Kinect is the feature that has captured the most sci-fi nerd interest. In the past, tech-savvy gamers have been known to manipulate the Kinect attachment for the Xbox in an attempt to broaden the horizon for future technologies. While some of the possible capabilities of the Kinect are seemingly frivolous — such as a modification which allows the Kinect to function as a virtual changing room or giving users the ability to change the TV channel with a swipe of the hand — others present countless possibilities for not only the functionality of technology, but the way in which we design it as well. Kinect has already made advancements in the field of robotics by providing a commercial platform for motion-tracking technology. There has also been experimentation with the use of the Kinect and interactive

12 | Word June 2013

projections. Architects and archaeologists have been able to integrate software, used to map and design buildings, with the Kinect to create a joint piece of equipment that allows them to work on virtually any smooth surface. With further developments in a new and improved Kinect, for which Microsoft claims improved tracking, resolution and the ability to speak to the user, science fiction will be all but science fact.

Sony Nation While the PS4 does have its own version of interactive gameplay called the Move, the potential behind it isn’t as obvious. Be that as it may, Sony may still be providing the better console, as far as user-friendliness is concerned. With the release of the PlayStation 3 in 2006, Sony has been winning the gaming battle. The PS3 has sold over a million more units than the Xbox 360, a win Sony achieved by staying within the technological limits of a userfriendly experience — unlike the raw computing power of the 360, which is plagued by the all-too-common ‘red ring of death’. As of now, the gaming war remains undecided. Microsoft clearly has the edge in technology, but Sony seems to be following the saying, “Everything tastes better when it’s free.” Well, free of hassles at least. — Kyle Phanroy

World Nutella Day is Back On! Reversing a tasteless corporate decision, Nutella manufacturer Ferrero, SpA is allowing the fan-driven World Nutella Day to go on as planned next Feb. 5. The food blogger-run initiative at nutelladay.com was spared an ignominious end by cease-anddesist letter on May 21, four days before its founder Sara Rosso agreed to take it dark. Nutella maniacs — the likes of which made off with five tonnes of the stuff in a German heist in April — took to the Facebook page to express their outrage, and Ferrero soon reconsidered its contentious move, saying, “Ferrero considers itself fortunate to have such devoted and loyal fans of its Nutella spread, like Sara Rosso.”

This Summer, Put Away the Video Games Summer can be a stretch for even the most attentive parent. With so much time to occupy in kids’ days, the TV is a likely babysitter, and the Nutella jar is only a cabinet away. Nutrifort, the total fitness specialists, are putting on a kids’ health camp this summer, ages seven to 16, with guaranteed weight loss in 45 days. The activities include dance, swimming, kayaking, bowling, skating, horse riding, rock climbing and more. On a holistic scale, healthy meals will be offered and good eating habits taught. Packages are available in one or two month allotments, everyday or three days per week. For more info, call 0837 446672 or write to reception@nutrifort.com

Hoi An Fine Art Located in the heart of Hoi An’s old town, Hoi An Fine Art photo gallery is the first of its kind in central Vietnam. Using only imported archival photo paper, owner Etienne Bossot displays some of his best shots from Vietnam and Southeast Asia (including Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar). After six years in Hoi An and the creation of the popular Hoi An Photo Tour & Workshop, Etienne opened his gallery to display his work to everyone. More than a photo gallery, this place is also used by many photographers coming to Hoi An, to meet and discuss anything related to photography. Hoi An Fine Art Photo Gallery is at 42 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, 100 metres from the central market. For more information go to hoianphoto.com

The Food

Vino (An Phu) is at 1 Duong So 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0862 819059. Breakfast is served Saturdays and Sundays from 9am to 12pm

14 | Word June 2013

Holistic Breakfasts I t was over breakfast with a well-known restaurateur that the topic came up. A wine retailer and wine bar, Vino likes to mix and match. Along with their tapas fare they run a great weekend breakfast menu, with dishes you won’t find anywhere else in the city. And yet blatantly missing is the standard fry-up — the bacon, eggs, sausage, beans and tomatoes that is as Irish as it is English as it is Australian. “They should put a traditional breakfast on the menu,” commented the restaurateur. “You need to cater for everyone.” Talk to Kylie Cawood, the chef who makes Vino probably the most popular breakfast spot in District 2, and you will quickly understand why the green eggs and ham, homemade cottage cheese, sweet pea spatzli and Dutch poffertjes pancake puffs don’t sit on the same laminated menu as an English or Australian or Irish breakfast. “Traditional breakfasts don’t interest me,” she says. “Every other restaurant in town does [a traditional breakfast], so I want to do something different.”

Such an attitude runs through to her desire to keep her cuisine “traditional, natural and healthy”. “Except for the bacon and the ham,” she says, “anything which can be processed is processed here in our kitchen.” This means that the haloumi, mozzarella, ricotta and cottage cheese through to onion confit, pickled beetroot, bacon jam and bread is all made on-site. All adding to the holistic feel of the cuisine. Kylie is also experimenting with making her own cola. It’s not quite there yet, but it’s part of her desire to “steer away doing anything commercial”. As her husband Jim is quick to add, “Coke is f_cking bad for you.” Kylie’s stance will not suit the tastes of every Thong, Duc and Ha out there, especially those looking for that stodgy pick-me-up the morning after a big night out. But just because Vino doesn’t go for the traditional breakfast doesn’t mean that they’ve avoided the fry-up. Get your chops round the Bacon and Egg McVino or the green eggs and ham, and mix it up with a Bloody Mary or three, and you’ll more than have your cholesterolinduced fill. — Nick Ross

June 2013 Word | 15

The Getaway

Lang Co J

The Information Laguna Lang Co is located at the bottom of the Hai Van Pass, in between Danang and Hue. It is close to the former French Hill Station, Bach Ma, that has been transformed into one of the most spectacular national parks in Vietnam. For more information go to lagunalangco.com

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ust ahead of the development at Ho Tram Strip, Banyan Tree has grand-opened the first integrated resort in Vietnam. A cocoon of luxury, nearly 300 rooms, suites and villas divided between two hotels are spread over 280 hectares of land, all framed by 3km of gold sand beach and the sweaty peaks of the Annamite Mountains behind. Laguna Lang Co will eventually encompass six more planned hotels and residences, a shopping district, many other up-in-the-air possibilities, all connected by pan-Asian restaurants, golf carts and a ferry along a resort-wide canal. Nick Faldo designed their golf course, and by the look of things, many other clever minds have been at work. I went up there for the celebration. My room had its scented oil burner lit, the temperature set to a perfect 24.5˚C. Chocolates and a complimentary bottle of wine sat on the writing desk. A bowl full of tropical fruits — with a handy tasting guide folded nearby — was replenished every day, sometimes multiple times. Pigs were roasted, fish skewered and bottles popped to mark the arrival of the press corps. We were woken the next morning for an 8am tour bus to Hoi An, one of the nearby ‘cultural attractions’. We took an evening swim back-and-forth through their 300m resortwinding pool. At night I slept the sleep of the dead, on fluffy white sheets. The restaurants are uniformly good. One, Rice Bowl, is good enough and clean enough in concept that it feels like it wouldn’t be out of place on Dong Khoi — or for that matter, on the fine-dining drag of any world city. The activities menu offers many ways of interacting with the perfect view, although we were officially dissuaded from bushwhacking through the pretty-as-a-postcard surroundings. I

did so anyway, climbing down footsteps carved into the fence-bordered high point of the property, down 100m to the cliff-face where the waves end. At every turn, we were presented with a touch of Vietnam. Not too much, just in fishing basket traps mounted on the walls, clear-brothed pho next to the omelet station at breakfast and the inevitable language difficulties. This isn’t a knock — this is what happens when you try to invest a sense of place into something as inherently placeless as a luxury resort. If you want culture, head to Loc Vinh fishing village, just over the manmade mountain pass. Which I did.

Outside the Sanctuary Borrowing a gearless pushbike, I rode over the daunting hill that separates the Laguna enclave from the surrounding region. I took a left on the new highway, which paves the way to the fishing village. Once there, my experience took on a new dimension. Here, it was hard to keep out the culture. Children raced from neighbouring houses to watch me sip my nuoc mia, then ran in giggling terror from my “con ten la gi?” I peeped in at a wedding tent, and was invited in by the oldest man present for a Huda beer. I took my chances with the ice. After 35km of rice paddies, lazy water buffalo and hello-ing children, I headed back to Laguna for a sundowner. And, watching the sun crest over the Hue-style, clay-tiled roof of the Angsana hotel wing, reacquainting myself with diving skills lost in this land of the 1.8m deep end, I finally felt the peace and tranquil power of the Banyan Tree experience I’d been hearing about. And it was profound, even if its clear blue waters could flow from any spring in the world. — Ed Weinberg

June 2013 Word | 17

Live performance photography by: © Marc Walker Photography

The Band

Dengue Fever

The band, not the illness, returns to Saigon this month. Prepare yourself for quite a show

eturning for their third trip to Vietnam, psychedelic rock-cumCambodian 1960s pop outfit Dengue Fever will be playing Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4) on Jun. 7. Word catches up with band co-founder and guitarist Zac Holtzman.

Q: For people who don’t know you or have never seen you play, how would you best describe your music? If there was one song that best described who you are, which song would it be? A: We have elements from a wide variety of styles of music. Our singer is from Cambodia and the band started out playing our favourite songs from the late 1960s and early 1970s. Cambodia was picking up a radio station broadcasted to the troops during the [American War] via Armed Forces Radio. Cambodian musicians took the British and American psychedelic rock ‘n’ roll and added their own beautiful singing styles to it. My favourite song of ours is 1000 Tears of a Tarantula. You know those religious folks that dance with the venomous snakes in order to reach a state of trance? This song is my snake. Q: The nature of both your band and your music means that you have a unique

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relationship with Cambodia. How would you define this relationship? Are you still doing much charitable work in Cambodia? A: Yes we work with Cambodian Living Arts (cambodianlivingarts.org) and Wildlife Alliance (wildlifealliance.org). CLA helps teach kids traditional styles of music and dance, and WA helps protect endangered species of animals. We also recently went with TOMS (youtube.com/ watch?v=Hb7P7b4FYQo) to gift shoes to kids as well as help them restore eyesight to those in need. It’s kind of a great direction that our lives took due to the band being into Cambodian rock. Q: You now have your own record label, Tuk Tuk Records. What is the idea behind this? A: We’ve learned a lot over the years and have made great connections. We’ve always been a very DIY band, and we figured — let’s take it all the way. Q: You’ve now been going for over a decade. How has doing the ‘band thing’ and going on tour changed over the past 10 years? What are your best memories? A: Some of my best memories and favourite stories are when things get rough. Like when we decided to tour by train across Europe. We were in Amsterdam waiting for our

overnight train. We had our dinners in bags, bottles of wine, all our gear and luggage. And we were early. Then we noticed a train (that looked different from the commuter trains) across on another track. It ended up being our train and the mad dash to get on it almost drove a few of us to puke. Q: This is your third trip to Vietnam. How would you describe your previous trips to this country? A: We love going to Vietnam! Some of my favourite meals have been there. Hanoi is like an Asian Paris, and Ho Chi Minh City is a trip. One time our luggage was lost on the flight over, and we had an hour to go out and find some clothes for the night’s show. I guess it was a pretty good country for this to happen in with all the textile industry based here. Part of the Loud Minority series, the show starts at 7pm on Friday Jun. 7 and runs until late. Also performing will be British indie rock band Little Barrie. Advance tickets can be purchased for VND150,000 with student ID or VND250,000 (limited early-bird price). At the door, tickets cost VND300,000. Tickets are available from the Q4 Box Office at 7A Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Asian Kitchen / Alley Cat (185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1) or by emailing q4.info@saigonsoundsystem.com

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To the Day…

The Monk This month marks 50 years since the self-immolation of Thich Quang Duc

n 1963 the revered Buddhist monk Thich Quang Duc was driven to one of Saigon’s busiest intersections, that of the streets now named Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Travelling in a baby blue-coloured Austin A95, he was accompanied by two other monks and a large plastic petrol container filled with gas, stored under the front hood. A circle of chanting monks had already formed at the intersection after walking in procession from a nearby pagoda — the arriving sedan drove into the middle of the circle. The monks helped Thich Quang Duc from the car, and he sat on a cushion in a lotus position as he was drenched with five gallons of gasoline. After praying he lit a book of matches and let it fall to his lap. The next day while reviewing the papers, American President John Kennedy saw Malcolm Browne’s photo and exclaimed “Jesus Christ!” He later said, “No news picture in history has generated so much emotion around the world as

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that one.” Browne, an AP photojournalist, had been following the Buddhist struggle for religious equality in the face of continued persecution and was alerted to the event the night before. He was the only photographer of record at the scene. He shot 10 rolls of film that were smuggled to The Philippines for AP distribution. The photo was recognized as the World Press Photo of the Year in 1963 and was a turning point in the war. When the photo appeared, I was both a photographer and university student in Boston. I was transfixed by the image of a man in flames, but also in a state of grace. David Halberstam would later write, “As he burned he never moved a muscle, never uttered a sound, his outward composure in sharp contrast to the wailing people around him.” Thich Quang Duc’s heart survived immolation and the subsequent cremation. He is today revered as an enlightened saint. — Harvey Morrison

HCMC: +84 8 3933 0065 HaNoi: +84 4 3941 0805 E: info@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com

June 2013 Word | 21

Photos by Francis Xavier

The Scene

The Ghost Inside

he Ghost Inside’s Asian tour started out like most western bands’ Asian tours, with stops in China, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and Japan, while Vietnam watched from the sidelines. On May 14, it turned into this — 150 sweat-soaked Vietnamese metalheads circle-pitting the floor of Hard Rock, as lead singer Jonathan Vigil intoned dire death growls in songs and uplifting crowd banter before the next. “We’re so glad to be here,” Vigil said in one of those diplomatic pauses. “But it’s not because of us that we came here. We’re here because you guys wanted us!” It was a special moment in the lives of all the kids who shrieked back love at the man onstage, a moment made possible by one of Vietnam’s first successful efforts at crowdfunding. And by the four other bands on the bill — Hanoi’s Nuranium and 18+, Nemesis from Danang and Annalynn from Thailand — who decided to cover their own costs and fly in for the show. “It’s extremely tough to find someone to cover the performance fee,” K, the promoter who organised the show, tells me. “This is always the biggest issue... I suddenly realised

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that crowdfunding was the only way, if not the last, to get The Ghost Inside to Vietnam.” Determined to fulfill his desire, K wrote an email to Corerior, an influential hardcore collective in Saigon, which was instrumental in helping put the night together. “The Ghost Inside is one of the many artists that they, as hardcore fans, unquestionably fall in love with.” When K hit on this, things went ballistic. Through grassroots outreach and the efforts of a dedicated fan base, the video Corerior posted on Facebook attracted 20,000 views in three days. In the end, their backers totalled more than 100 fans and supportive parents who chipped in VND60 million, enough to cover the deposit for the band’s show in Vietnam, the flights in from Singapore and their hotel stay. “For ages in Vietnam, rock music has been used as an easy medium for brands to exploit,” says K. “[The brands] offer various half-assed events and second-rate artists from abroad. The scene, whichever part we’re in, needs some fresh element. The fans need to have a voice that for long has been unheard of by promoters in town, expat or local alike.”

The Creation of a Scene On May 14, the fans had a voice — not only in their background howls, not only in their know-by-heart echo choruses — but in the bands onstage, who were their collaborators in this thing Vietnam has rarely seen. I hadn’t seen it, that’s for sure. And somewhere in there, in that sweaty passion, in that endless flow of crowdsurfers from a not-off-limits stage — so different from the oft-brought-up My Chemical Romance arena show in 2009 — I saw a scene coming together. From up onstage, Vigil introed, “This next song is about having the high school mentality, about being left out, being excluded for no particular reason.” But as those intense, passion-filled kids climbed the stage, you could see they felt nothing like that. During the chorus, there was a chilling call and response. “All my life I’ve been searching for something / To break these chains, to break these chains, but I’ll keep swinging.” Hands reached up to the stage, touching Vigil’s shoulders as he dipped into the respectful distance. It was an intimate moment, which is all you can ask of a moment you’ll never forget. — Ed Weinberg

The Buzz

The NetWork

Art Market In the latest jewel in Thao Dien’s Renaissance calendar, VinGallery is holding a kidfriendly art market with some fun, DIY angles on Jun. 8. Whether you’re looking to make your own jewellery, see some photos or paintings, buy some cool, crafty gifts or just get your face painted, Le Van Mien will be your Champs-Élysées, at least for a day. The Art Market is happening on Jun. 8 from 10am to 4pm at VinGallery, 4 Le Van Mien, Q2

Dodge, Ball! Once a year, the dodgeball beer circuit in Ho Chi Minh City gets serious. Jun. 8 at Rach Mieu Stadium, Saigon Dodgeball will host their third annual “clash of champions” — indeed, the “tension from last year's battle still taints the cold air every Wednesday night”. With eight fierce bands of hurlers, the afternoon stands to get more intense than the average weekday throw-around. Although it’s not all to-the-finish extreme sportiness — in an unprecedented move, the board of directors has gone against tradition to allow the service of beer. Take in all the free action at this free-for-all on Jun. 8 at 4pm at Rach Mieu Stadium, 1 Hoa Phuong, Phu Nhuan. For more info, click on saigondodgeball.org

Creating genius artworks in a littlesearched corner of the web can get pretty lonely. That’s why Riverorchid Digital has organised The Indochina Project — an initiative to gather all these orphan photos, videos, music, writings and artwork into one well-networked space. And — until the selected artist is announced on Jun. 10 — the project is calling for submissions, and will pick one of these talents to represent unharnessed internet genius everywhere at the Jun. 22 exhibition and event in the unmoulded space of a parking lot at 49 Dong Du. Or, if you're just a connoisseur, Rah Akaishi of Sri Lanka, Peepshow of New Zealand and local graffiti artist Liar Ben will be demonstrating some of their own skills in the space. The Indochina Project event and exhibition is happening on Jun. 22 from noon to 10pm in a parking lot at 49 Dong Du, Q1. For more info, click on theindochinaproject.com

Darts, Darts, Charity? June 8 at RED Bar, dart chuckers will be doing more than whiling away the hours with their skills. This 2nd charity darts event will raise money in support of The Loreto Vietnam-Australia Program, hoping to build on the VND4.5 million they raised last time. Registration is VND200,000, but after the VND150,000 destined for Loreto’s coffers there will still be VND50,000 for the cash prize kitty. And this is good news for the dart sharks out there — even if they’re helping disadvantaged children, they still need to feed themselves. The tournament is on Jun. 8 from 2 to 6pm at RED Bar, 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Registration closes Jun. 6, which you can outpace by contacting Kris Goetghebeur at kris. goetghebeur@gmail.com pronto!

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Charles Pasi Jazz-Rocks the House Singer-songwriter-Renaissance man Charles Pasi is coming from Paris to play his unique brand of jazz-rock, with a little bit of blues, gospel and world music thrown in. He’s worked with stars like Carla Bruni on tours, filmmakers on film scores and now legendary saxophonist Archie Shepp. Catch Pasi at 8pm on Jun. 11 at Idecaf, 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1. Entrance is VND100,000, half-price for students

Come Sail Away The Nha Trang Sailing Cup 2013, the biggest sailing event ever to come to Vietnam, will be held on Jun. 8 and 9 during the Sea Festival. The event is the first organised by the newly formed Nha Trang Yachting Association, and is open to all comers and three types of boat — 2.36m Optimits, Hobie 16s and Corsair 750s. For more info, click on nhatrangyachting.org

Who Wants to Get Stoned? In another of their wacky antics, Saigon Outcast is holding a Rock Paper Scissors tournament on Jun. 16. For an entry fee of VND20,000, you can compete for the ultimate prize — a cool VND1 million and massive respect. Just don’t snip through your winnings… The Ultimate Rock Paper Scissors Tournament will be held at Saigon Outcast, 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, on Jun. 16 at 3pm. Tournament entry is VND20,000. There can be only one!

{T h e Bartender} ** Head in the Clouds * * Canada Day Stampede Tickets for the much-anticipated Canada Day Stampede 2013 are now on sale and available at the CanCham office downtown. The fun kicks off at 2pm on Jun. 22 at the District 7 location with bull riding, pony rides, Canadian BBQ steaks, a free flow of drinks and live music. Tickets come in at VND750,000 for adults, VND500,000 for food and soft drinks only, VND300,000 for kids aged five to 12 — and finally there is a family pack for a cool VND2 million (two adults, two kids and a food and soft drinks ticket for a nanny). Canada Day Stampede takes place Jun. 22, 2pm at Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung, Q7. For more information email em@canchamvietnam.org

The Skills to Pay the Bills

ny company is proud when its staff receives accolades, and in the case of Chill Skybar, thanks to the competitive escapades of their chief bartender, they’re looking triply proud. Now with three awards under his belt, 25-year-old Le Thanh Tung has just won the Diageo World Class Bartender of the Year award for southern Vietnam. This is to add to the same crown that he won in 2012 — he came second in the overall national competition. In addition he is also the reigning Vietnam Monin Cup 2012 champion. Not a bad succession

of awards for the man leading the cocktail line at one of the city’s top bars. Life, though, remains pretty much the same for Tung, although he now runs a number of training courses, performs bar skills shows and gets involved in a range of promotional programmes. Fortunately his head hasn’t exploded. And while he may work fairly close to the clouds — high up on the 26th floor Chill — his feet still remain very much on the ground. The cocktails are good, too. Chill Skybar is on floors 26 and 27 of the AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1

Grease Junkies Unite! Staying true to Saigon Outcast’s original concept, Motorcycle Lama Sunday is a day of awesome devotion to hogs — erm, nevermind the hog they’re spit-roasting later on. This celebration of motorised freedom starts with a coffee morning before getting really interesting, as fancy costume drag racers and balloon jousters will soon be able to attest! Leave your Harley Davidson at home and bring your custom 67 for a day of fun, hog roasting and music, all done in the Saigon Outcast way. Motorcycle Lama Sunday is happening at Saigon Outcast, 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, on Jun. 30 at 10am

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Most people these days are no stranger to a shutter, but find it a bit tough to go beyond the likes of Facebook to true artistic immortality. That’s what well-travelled photographers Peter Stuckings and Mark Stennett — behind an intensive photo workshop to be held Jun. 15 and 16 — are enjoying, at least as long as their domain servers hold up. Over two packed days, aspiring masters will learn how to work with light, how to handle their equipment and lenses, “the science and art of good-looking images” and get to take their new skills out into the field for some practical exercise. Through the weekend, students will also get some choice wisdom from lives well-photographed, like this: “In my experience, the most-asked photography question is how to photograph strangers. But it’s the part I think least about. Most people who let you into their personal space with a camera are privately eager to share something of themselves. The real challenge is how to do them justice.” The two-day course is Jun. 15 and 16, costing VND5.1 million per person, with one day options available from VND2.8 million. For more info or to reserve a place, contact pstuckings@gmail.com

Probing the Disco Depths There is a country of the mind called Tokyo and it is unlike any other region. When you go crate digging there, you can come up with some crazy stuff — spacey beats and disco deviance. That’s the sound Beaten Space Probe will bring to Ho Chi Minh City on June 22, when Vasco’s goes on some Sound Adventures, aided by the equally deviant DJs Superkid, Dan Lo and Fancilous. Sound Adventures is at Vasco’s, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, on Jun. 22, starting at 9pm. Entry of VND100,000 includes one drink

Mom, Where Do Pastries Come From?

Depth Darge DJ music has always had this problem live: visually, it’s kind of boring. This is why the sexy DJ phenomenon has occurred — the other option is watching a guy in a plaid shirt smoke the occasional cigarette while he tweaks the mix. And this is also why all the cool conversational exclamation points in the world conspired to give us Keb Darge. Yes, the guy is a former Tae Kwon Do world champ, who tears it up occasionally on the dance floor. In fact, the furthest his Google search goes back is his appearance in the nationally televised 1979 UK disco dance finals. Yes, he was in a cult surf movie with Catherine Zeta-Jones. And yes, he invented Deep Funk. Catch the Northern Soul frenzy June 14 at Cargo Bar. Keb Darge headlines Mind, Body & Soul, June 14, 9pm at Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. Supporting will be DJs Uncon Sci, Jase and Foniks, and entry is VND100,000

This is a question our overloaded brains rarely tackle while getting their buttons pushed by all the delicious, oozing bonbons, macarons and chocolatey-doughy things to be found in this city. The fourth edition of the Vietnam Classic Pastry Cup will answer this and a whole lot more, as it pairs man-woman teams of Vietnamese nationality from the best hotels, restaurants and bakeries to compete for the chance to represent Vietnam in Paris and Singapore’s “ultimate pastry championships” in 2014. Teams from Caravelle, Intercontinental Ho Chi Minh City, Sheraton Nha Trang, Hyatt Regency Danang, Sofitel Hanoi and Sheraton Hanoi will compete on Jun. 12 and 13 in Ba Ria to answer this most important of questions. For more information, contact tham@classicfinefoods.com.vn

Gallery in the Sky Get your culture and your vertigo in the same place on Jun. 11, when VinGallery invites Shyevin Sn’g and Ignacio De Grado up to the 52nd floor of the Bitexco building for art talks and cocktails. Alto Heli Bar is hosting Gallery in the Sky for the low, low price of free (reservation required). Catch the sunset and some complimentary canapés and blame it all on education. Vin Gallery’s Gallery in the Sky will be held on Jun. 11 from 5pm to 8pm. Free entrance with reservation required, obtainable through info@vingallery.com or booking@altosaigon.com. Alto Heli Bar is on Floor 52 of Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1

Indonesian Charity Gala With all the fanfare other consulates are attracting, the Indonesian Consulate’s role in Ho Chi Minh City’s welfare isn’t always so apparent. So every once in a while they do something public with their charitable actions, like the upcoming charity gala at the Sheraton on Jun. 14, in support of the disabled and disadvantaged children cared for by Ky Quang II (charity-kyquang.org) pagoda in Go Vap. For US$75 (VND1.55 million), guests will enjoy authentic Indonesian cuisine, a troupe of Indonesian dancers flown in from the island archipelago, a batik fashion show and the Daeng Udjo Angklung Orchestra soothing city ears throughout. For reservations to the Jun. 14 dinner, 6pm in the ballroom of the Sheraton at 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, contact Indrawati Sumadi on 01682 770123

Lights, Camera, Murrrrder! It’s Oscar night in Tinseltown, USA, and a member of Hollywood’s ruling class has just been murdered. Was it an aspiring actress, tired of living in the shadows? A livid lover who has been pushed too far? Or possibly the teen starlet trying to attract a more mature audience? Holy canapés Batman! As the night unfolds, so will a web of lies and scandals intricately woven to point to a killer. Not everyone can be among the glitterati, but the cheap seats are still available to groupies and hangerson. Come walk the blood-red carpet and enjoy a night of secrets, celebrities and scandal. Lights, Camera, Murder! is happening at Saigon Outcast, 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, on June 22 at 6pm

Dancing to the Tune of a Different Choreographer For their new show, Dancenter is focusing on the world of their choreographers. What serves as inspiration behind a piece of dance? Was it a piece of art that caused a dancer to kick their feet, a moment, a classic myth? These are the questions their new show Inspiration deals with, as it seeks to communicate the raw underlying emotion behind the grace it’s transformed into. Inspiration plays Jun. 8 at 7.30pm and Jun. 9 at 3pm, at Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien, 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1. For more info, click on dancentervn.com

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In the Papers The Best of the VietnameSe Press

HOANG SA ISLAND (VIETNAM)

Have a VND2,000 lunch Poor workers, students and labourers can buy their meals for just VND2,000 at Nu Cuoi 3 social dining shop at 298A Huynh Tan Phat, Q7. After the successful launch of Nu Cuoi 1 at 6 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3 and Nu Cuoi 2 at 46/22 Nguyen Ngoc Nhut, Tan Phu eight months ago, this is the third food shop in the project Tro giup suat an gia re (supporting meals at low prices) by the Ho Chi Minh City Charity Foundation, an organisation that has received sponsorship from benefactors to

cover the VND12,000 extra for each meal. Despite being a cheap-priced meal, the food is deliberately nutritious and consists of a main course, vegetables, soup and rice and banana as dessert. The newlyestablished shop has over 25 volunteers who are students and retired labourers divided into two groups to cook and help serve food. There are areas for diners to wash their hands and a corner for people to read books for an extra VND2,000.

TRUONG SA ISLAND (VIETNAM)

Americans go nuts for local cashews Processed cashew nut products will be sold directly to supermarkets in the US in the near future, marking the first time that local cashew brands have reached American consumers. Dang Hoang Giang, general secretary of the Vietnam Cashew Association (Vinacas), said US retail giant Kroger has committed to buying 100 containers of plain, salt-roasted and bee honey-soaked cashews from Vietnamese suppliers for distribution at its supermarkets and retail stores stateside annually. Vietnam exports at least 150,000 tonnes of cashew products to the US, China and Europe annually but most products are raw materials only.

DaNang to Safeguard Tourists Six agencies in the central city of Danang will collaborate with one another to handle accidents, robberies, fraud, rip-offs and nuisances reported by foreigners. The moves came after a directive from the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism requiring central cities and provinces to implement interdepartmental collaborations and set up hotlines to support tourists and punish lawbreakers. Nguyen Trung Nghia, Danang Transport Department chief traffic inspector, said taxis in the city were “strictly controlled”, but his office would run inspections to

continue to prevent taxi fraud. Said another high-ranking public order official in Danang, Le Van Kiem, “We want to build an image of Danang as a beautiful and safe tourism city to visitors.” Kiem also announced the establishment of a hotline — 0511 3893400 — for tourists to call when they need help. Rip-offs and tourist robberies are common issues in Vietnam and tourism authorities said the travel sector needs more help from local administrations to protect visitors from such occurrences.

Vietnamese to Boycott Coca-Cola Revelations that Coca-Cola has not paid any tax after over a decade of operating in Vietnam has raised a wave of anger locally. The case is similar to the widespread furore which engulfed the UK after Starbucks also avoided tax payments despite profits over a long period. “I have decided not to drink Coca-Cola any more,” said one local citizen who preferred to remain anonymous. “I feel I need to do this. We should not accept an investor who earns riches in Vietnam, but does not pay tax to Vietnam.”

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Coca-Cola’s finance reports showed that in 2004, it had a turnover of VND728 billion and had losses of VND110 billion. In 2006, the turnover soared to VND1.026 trillion. In 2010, Coca-Cola’s turnover shot to VND2.53 trillion, but the firm claimed its expenses were VND2.717 trillion, which meant an apparent loss of VND188 billion. Since it repeatedly reports loss, it does not have to pay any corporate income tax.

Arsenal to Play Vietnam Arsenal revealed last month that they will become the first English Premier League club to play a game in Vietnam as part of their preseason tour of Asia in July. Arsene Wenger’s side will play the Vietnam national team in the 40,000-seater My Dinh National Stadium in Hanoi on Jul. 17. “Arsenal has so many loyal supporters in Asia and we are delighted to be visiting Vietnam in July to play a match in Hanoi,” said Arsenal chief executive Ivan Gazidis. “Everyone at Arsenal is proud to be the first Premier League team to play a match in Vietnam and to be spending time in this wonderful country.” Arsenal has also announced fixtures in Jakarta, Indonesia and Japan.

Tourism Bodies Want To Keep Visa Waiver

Get Married for VND1 million Ho Chi Minh City will host the latest collective wedding for 100 couples who are local workers, teachers and labourers on Sep. 2. Couples just need to pay VND1 million for the registration fee and will enjoy a wedding party table, rings, flower vehicles, a photo shoot and make-up. Requirement papers are ID cards and marriage certificates. The programme is organised by the Youth Worker Support Center, who will call on benefactors and companies for gifts for couples to the event. Couples can even join in a training course on how to build a happy family.

In a seminar held last month in Ho Chi Minh City, The HCMC Tourism Association continued to petition the authorities to retain the visa waiver scheme for nationals of seven countries — and in fact to expand it — and not to hike visa fees. Participants at the seminar agreed that the visa exemption for single-entry visits of up to 15 days for Danish, Finnish, Japanese, Norwegian, Russian, South Korean, and Swedish nationals has fostered the development of the tourism industry in the last decade. “It [scrapping the waiver] would have a serious impact on the development of the tourism industry,” the association said. The scheme is likely to be suspended after it had been announced that it caused revenue losses of around US$50 million for the state. In Singapore and Malaysia, citizens of around 150 countries and territories do not need visas. Thailand allows free entry of people from 55 countries.

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June 2013

oud Minority is getting major with their third installment at Cargo, this time packing some superior psychedelic punch courtesy of 1960s Cambodian pop-inspired Dengue Fever, and Mr. One-Sixth of Primal Scream, Little Barrie. Get ready for the crazy, it’s coming.

jun. 7— cargo bar

f the purpose of art is to feel something, what better place as a backdrop than the 52nd floor of the Bitexco Tower? When VinGallery’s Shyevin Sn’g and Ignacio De Grado climb the levels to enlighten you, you’d better be prepared for a heady experience.

dengue fever Gallery in the Sky

jun. 11 — Alto Heli bar

01 Saturday

10 Monday

Drops featuring hibiya line. 8pm @ Café and Bar Queen (15/7 Le Thanh Ton, Q1)

Opening Monday. @ Bahdja, 20% off for all couscous dishes

02 Sunday

11 Tuesday

03 Monday 04 Tuesday Michelin-star chef richard toix in saigon. @ Sofitel Saigon Plaza. See Big 5

05 Wednesday Last day of jack clayton and pat bradbury exhibition. @ deciBel

06 Thursday Cargo exhibition by barbara. 7pm @ deciBel

07 Friday Dengue Fever and Little Barrie live. 7pm @ Cargo Bar. See The Band Riedel Glass Tasting. 5.30 to 7pm @ Bacchus Corner. Call (08) 382 933 06 for reservations

Jazz rock concert with Charles Pasi. 8pm @ IDECAF. See The Buzz Gallery In the sky. 8pm @ Alto Helio Bar. See The Buzz

12 Wednesday Vietnam Classic Pastry Cup. Jun. 12 to 13. See The Buzz

13 Thursday Message Stick: Indigenous Identity in Urban Australia exhibition. Until Jun. 13 @ HCMC Fine Arts Museum

14 Friday Indonesian Charity Gala. 6pm @ Ballroom Sheraton Hotel. See The Buzz

15 Saturday

08 Saturday 2nd Charity Darts event. 2pm @ RED Bar. See The Buzz art market. 10am to 4pm @ VinGallery. See The Buzz Saigon Dodgeball’s third annual ‘Clash of Champions’. 4pm @ Rach Mieu Stadium. See The Buzz

A dOSe of Escape 2013. First dance music festival in Vietnam. 2pm @ Diamond Island in Ho Chi Minh City. See The Big 5

09 Sunday

16 Sunday

Football For All Vietnam Tournament. Jun. 8 to 11. See Big 5

Travel Photography workshop. Jun. 15 to 16. See The Buzz The Ultimate Rock Paper Scissors Tournament. 3pm @ Saigon Outcast. See The Buzz

Nha Trang Sailing Cup 2013. Jun. 8 to 9. See The Buzz

30 | Word June 2013

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Jun. 18 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

hat do you get when you combine World Music Day, a 1960s-themed rooftop pool party, the Summer Solstice and Brigitte Bardot? You get a can’t-miss music party, whether it’s held in the Saigon of the 21st century or the Paris of the 1960s.

jun. 21 — sofitel saigon plaza

Get out your leather jackets — or at least your feather boas — for Outcast’s picnicky day of motorbike thrills, goofy balloon jousts, slowest-bikewins drag races and hogs of the barbecued kind.

fete de la Motorcycle musique Lama Sunday

17 Monday 18 Tuesday saigon comedy nights. 8pm @ Cargo Bar. See The Big 5 A Moment in Nature. Jun. 11 to 18 @ VinGallery

jun. 30 — saigon outcast

24 Monday Happy Hour. Mon. to Sun. from 5.30 to 8pm @ Chill Skybar

25 Tuesday Sunset happy hour. Everyday half-price for food & drinks till 8pm @ Cloud 9

26 Wednesday 27 Thursday

19 Wednesday Median Wednesday. @ Bahdja, Glass of wine for each Couscous Merguez

20 Thursday OPTIMIST CLUB. Every Thu. featuring DJ Hibiya Line. Visit optimistclubsaigon.blogspot.com for info

21 Friday Fête de la Musique. 6pm @ Sofitel Saigon Plaza

22 Saturday

Stravinsky’s La Sacre du Printemps (The Rite of Spring). 8pm @ Ben Thanh Theatre. See The Big 5

28 Friday Boundary Friday. @ Bahdja, desert and mint tea for each Couscous Royale

29 Saturday Canada Day Stampede 2013. 2pm @ Crescent Mall. See The Buzz Lights, Camera, Murder! 6pm @ Saigon Outcast. See The Buzz The Indochina Project. Noon @ 49 Dong Du. See The Buzz Sound Adventures. 9pm @ Vasco’s. See The Buzz

23 Sunday

30 Sunday Motorcycle Lama Sunday. 10am @ Saigon Outcast. See The Buzz

June 2013 Word | 31

overscene

Gulliverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Travels

Photos by Kyle Phanroy Gulliver travelled to Ho Chi Minh City at the behest of UK-based TNT theatre company

32 | Word June 2013

Ghost Coast

Photos by Francis Xavier The local metal scene got together at Hard Rock to see The Ghost Inside and a slew of other metal acts

Facing Extinction

Photos by Francis Xavier American Indie band The Dodos beat the odds at Saigon Outcast

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordhcmc.com and we'll take a look.

Legends of the Spring

Photos by Kyle Phanroy Legend Hotel celebrated its civil union with Lotte management, for now and ever after

Grape Escape

Photos by Kyle Phanroy The Boat House brought out Beachhouseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new offering during a wild evening of bubbles

Insider

a dose of escape / the power of touch / entrepreneurs

Photo by Alexandre Garel

34 | Word June 2013

June 2013 Word | 35

A dOSe of Escape As the first dance music festival in Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history approaches, Evan Hudson breaks down some of the moving parts.

Pharreal Phuong Phuong Nguyen, who goes by the stage name Pharreal Phuong, was born in Vietnam and raised in Great Britain. He won the Next Top DJ competition in 2012 and plays the sort of high-tempo, synthesizer-heavy music youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d expect to hear at a very large rave in Eastern Europe.

36 | Word June 2013

here’s going to be a big party in District 2 on Saturday, Jun. 15. It’s going to be held on an island and there will be at least one industrialstrength foam machine. There will also be over 30 DJs playing music on two different stages from the early afternoon until late at night. The organisers, who are heavy-hitting veterans of the Saigon event promotion scene and know about these things, expect attendance to number in the thousands. Five to be precise. All signs point to the dOSe of Escape Music Festival being one of the biggest, craziest parties in the history of the city. The funny thing is, it would have never happened if it weren’t for complaining neighbours. According to Sunny Hermano, part of party promotion collective dOSe, the festival arose out of necessity. “We’ve been throwing parties for about five years, and dOSe has always been kind of an underground thing,” he says. “But we had three parties get [closed down] for noise complaints in six months so we decided to make it more mainstream.” They did this by enlisting the help of a Vietnamese luxury and lifestyle event agency, i68, who in addition to taking care of the myriad complications of setting up a huge music festival, hooked them up with official permission to host Ho Chi

Minh City’s first electronic music festival. “This collaboration has been great,” Sunny says. “We are in charge of the music and they are taking care of the logistics, all the paperwork. This means that we can really make this thing huge.” Mai Duy Bao who is the head of i68, couldn’t be more enthusiastic about what he views as Ho Chi Minh City’s entrance onto the global scene. “This festival is a chance for the Saigon electronic music community to get more global recognition,” he believes. “We are showing that our music scene is catching up with other countries’.” In more concrete terms, he’s excited about helping to expand the tastes of Vietnamese concertgoers by turning them on to new styles. The dOSe of Escape Festival, he says, “will also be a great opportunity to introduce a lot of new music to local audiences who haven’t heard it before”. Sunny agrees: “In the past, the crowd at dOSe parties has been mostly expatriates, but this time we’re really reaching out to the local audience. A lot of people are going to be exposed to a lot of new music. It’s going to be really positive for Saigon. As well as really, really fun.” There are over 30 DJs, but we picked 10 of our favourites to profile. To see the long list go to our shorter article on page 9.

Octave Harmonic Station The long-time South African house music hero is regarded highly on the global DJ circuit, so it’s kind of a big deal that he’s bringing his polyrhythmic brand of spaced-out bush beats to Ho Chi Minh City.

June 2013 Word | 37

Drew T Drew is Romanian and plays deep house music, which means that when you listen attentively to his songs you are transported to a strange computerised world where nobody has to work and everybody communicates through dance moves.

Hoang Anh

Kruise

Credited with creating the genre of Vinahouse, Hoang Anh is one of the bestknown DJs in Vietnam. Even if you’ve never heard of it, you know what Vinahouse is — it’s that mind-numbingly repetitive bassheavy house played at top volume in every nightclub and coffeeshop in Vietnam. Hoang Anh is to Vietnamese nightclub techno what Skrillex is to noises like giant robots farting.

For over 10 years, Kruise has been one of the biggest names in Vietnam for commercial events, exclusive parties and live shows on national TV. Kruise rocks parties with music ranging from top 40 to electro and dubstep. He’s been playing his brand of EDM at the popular nightclub Fuse for the last two years.

Glaser

DJ Jase

DJ Glaser is from Sweden. While growing up on his family’s reindeer farm, he always heard a beat in the back of his head. It grew louder and louder until he could no longer ignore it and he fled from the fjords into the DJ booth, where he has been creating precisely-crafted dance music ever since. He played to 10,000 people in the streets of Hanoi last New Year’s. Quite a feat.

Jase loves bass music so much that he tried to marry it, but it’s impossible to form a civil union with a genre — so instead he just throws a party every month to make all the cool kids in Saigon dance (Bass Republic at Lush). He is a ninja master at playing songs that make you nod your head involuntarily.

Global B His online biography says “he lives for the music”. He gets a chance to live for it weekly at Blanchy’s Tash, where he is the resident DJ. He especially enjoys playing funky house, soulful house, disco house and techno.

38 | Word June 2013

Hibiya Line Riding the chrome wave of the disco revival from his native Switzerland to the sweaty tropics, Hibiya Line plays smooth beats that make you feel like a seductive European robot. He is also responsible for the weekly Optimist Club, which is a dance party where people go to feel like seductive European robots.

Scrambled Edge He got his start playing bands like Echo and the Bunnymen at New Wave parties in Manila, but over the last 20 years Edge has played many kinds of music and had a DJ career that has taken him around the world. Nowadays he tends to play jazz and afrobeat-influenced house music.

KimKat Two supermodels, one Russian, one French-Vietnamese, met in California and discovered a shared love for dirty bass and precisely-crafted EDM remixes of Top 40 hits. Several world tours later, they are headlining dOSe of Escape.

Facts, Figures and Fire Dancers T he V enue

Diamond Island is a luxury residential community in District 2, about 15 minutes from the city centre. The festival will feature two stages overlooking the Saigon River — the Wet Stage , located next to the complex’s swimming pool, and the Dry Stage , located on an adjacent golf course. At least one of the two stages will feature a heavy-duty foam machine. Other attractions include inflatable toys, beatboxers, breakdancers, fire dancers and an exotic car show.

T he M usic

Over 30 DJs are scheduled to play from 2pm until 2am. Edge Pamute from dOSe, himself a DJ, says that the bill is split evenly between local DJs and foreign and Viet Kieu DJs. He also says that many of the Vietnamese DJs are excited to branch out creatively. “A lot of these DJs usually play clubs where managers prescribe what they must play, but here they will have a space to do what they want. Expect everything from hard drum ‘n’ bass to funky house music to trap and hip-hop beats — there’s going to be a lot of diversity.”

T he S pecifics W hat : Saigon’s first-ever electronic music festival W hen : Jun. 15 @ 2pm

W here : Diamond Island (Dao Kim Cuong)

is located at the end of Bat Nan, just off Dong Van Cong Highway, Q2 H ow much : Entrance to the dance festival is VND200,000 per person, including one drink. VIP Packages and table bookings are also available.

For more information look at the What’s On section of our website, wordhcmc.com. For advance tickets and table bookings, email escape@wordhcmc.com, or call 0938 609689 to speak with Bao or 01227 055122 to speak with Xuan. Disclaimer: We’re lending this festival support and our good name. We think it’s going to be a good time, but that’s where it’s coming from.

June 2013 Word | 39

Portrait

The Power of Touch Award-winning actress Porter Lynn made the world take notice last year with her ground-breaking debut performance as nail salon girl Tam in the cult hit Touch. Derek Milroy caught up with her on her latest trip to Vietnam. Photo by Alexandre Garel

orter Lynn touched down in Vietnam last year for the premiere of the movie Touch, which cast her as its nail buffing lead. Coming from obscurity to be cast as the lead in the award-winning feature, she has hardly paused for breath since. Born and bred in California with a bright and breezy accent to match, she has returned to Vietnam a year after the film came out to touch base with her family and explore opportunities. “It is such a fast growing film industry here in Vietnam,” she says. “I just love how much it has [expanded] and how open it has become.” The 29-year-old’s life changed the day she was cast to play manicurist Tam in the first ever movie to focus on the Californian nail salon industry and its links with this country. 80 percent of nail salons in California are owned by Vietnamese-Americans. “I was not really that familiar with the Asian-American community until I worked on the film,” explains Lynn. “It was really humbling to see how many people reacted to the film and enjoyed it — it touches them because it is a story that has not been told. I also got to know a lot of people in the industry. “The premiere [last year] in Saigon was unbelievable and I never imagined it would be anything like that. The Galaxy cinema downtown was beautiful, and the audience was very receptive and open. I was really nervous about how the audience here would react, since it is not a traditional movie, but [they] really took it to their hearts.”

The Movie Touch focuses on nail girl Tam and her growing friendship with a shy American motor mechanic at V.I.P. Nails. Brendan, played by John Ruby, can never get rid of the oil stains, much to the consternation of his aloof wife who rejects his advances due to his dirty hands. So he goes to Tam for advice. But fate has brought them together and her gentle touch becomes too much for Brendan as their bond grows.

Lynn believes it was time a movie was made about the nail industry in the US, which provides “immigrants with jobs and businesses”. She has family members that work in salons or own them, an industry she sees as providing opportunities for immigrants coming to the US in search of a better life. Yet, Lynn thought that the fact that she was born and bred in California’s Silicon Valley would count against her when she went for the audition. “I went to the casting and got called back,” she recalls. “Then I met the director Nguyen Duc Minh. He was very reserved, which is what I love about him. I love people who don’t need to talk all the time, the thinkers. At the time, though, I didn’t get a read on him. “I was so sure I hadn’t got the part that I sent the whole team thank you cards because even getting so close to a big role was an amazing experience and good for my confidence.” A week after they called her back and said that she had landed the role, much to her surprise — not only was it her first feature film but she was going to play the lead. The filming for the movie only took one month, the post-production a year. Then Lynn and the film crew followed the festival trail to unbelievable success. “I will never forget the moment I won the best actress award at the Boston International Film Festival,” she says. “I was shocked into submission; I was literally speechless.” Making the movie also gave her the chance to star alongside Vietnamese film community old hands Hiep Thi Ly and Long Nguyen, who played her parents. The duo also starred as lovers in Oliver Stone’s epic Heaven and Earth. “They were so kind to me and they are well-established in the film community, especially Hiep Thi Ly,” says Lynn. “In fact a lot of the set was in Long Nguyen’s home and in his art studio. He taught me a lot and was a very good mentor.”

Getting Established Lynn isn’t resting on her laurels, though. She knows there is much more hard work to be done to really establish herself as an actress in the Vietnamese film community and the world at large. She is studying at Beverly Hills Playhouse, a prestigious theatre school, to help fulfill her childhood fantasy. Yet it was watching The Little Mermaid as a child that opened her eyes to the beauty of imagination. “As I got older I knew I couldn’t be a mermaid, so I decided the next best thing was to be an actress and play a mermaid”. As a child she was reserved, introverted and played by herself a lot, and with that came a vivid imagination. That’s how she came to fall in love with acting. From when she was knee-high her mother took her to theatre classes. “As a student I studied psychology and biological science, and on weekends I would study theatre and acting,” she says. “After I graduated, I moved to Los Angeles to pursue an acting career. It is such a scary thing going for what you really want.” Lynn admires Viet Kieu director Minh not only because he cast her but for forging a growing reputation as a talented director. He also wrote Touch’s screenplay. Minh had worked in television in Hollywood but it was his first feature. Lynn feels blessed that he chose her as the lead. While her mother is her number one fan — she came to see the premiere at the Vietnamese International Film Festival, which was also the first time Porter had seen the completed movie — her father is a typical Asian dad. He wants his daughter to be a doctor or lawyer. At only 29, there is potentially still time for Porter to fulfill her father’s desire. But in the meantime she’s trying to progress her career as an actress. Whether it’s in Vietnam or back in the US, she’s certainly made an enviable start. Touch is now available on DVD with subtitles in English, Vietnamese and French as well as extras like deleted scenes and a blooper reel. For more information check out touchthemovie.com

ballet

The Rite of Spring One of France’s best known choreographers, JeanClaude Gallotta, will be bringing his version of Stravinsky’s ballet, The Rite of Spring, to Vietnam at the end of June. Marking 100 years since the first performance of what is one of the most controversial ballets ever written, Word caught up with the man behind the performance. Photos by Guy Delahaye 42 | Word June 2013

How faithful is your interpretation of the Rite of Spring to the original? Is the choreography similar or has it been completely reinterpreted for the 21st century? Choreography can change. Each choreographer has their own vision, their own movements. This is important. Since 1913, all the choreographers who have worked on The Rite of Spring have reinterpreted the story, have changed the choreography and adapted it to their own techniques and brought in their own aesthetics. In contrast, in the Asian tradition, choreographers tend to use existing choreographies — they perpetuate it. Choreographers in the West rewrite and choose a musical interpretation that is not necessarily the same as previous versions.

When The Rite of Spring was first performed in 1913, many elements of the original musical score experimented in tonality, metre, stress and dissonance. How do you incorporate these aspects of

the music into the choreography? I'm not a musician, so I am not conscious of the technical aspects. However, we use the musical spirit. When I create a choreographic proposal for a musician, it is him that will do the music, not me. When the music exists, I listen to it, then I formulate the choreographed steps in silence and eventually mix the two. Either it combines well, or sometimes it can combine too well with the choreography and music working too close together. Music is like running water and I try to adapt it, so I do not care about the musical elements as expressed by tone, dissonance and accent. The Rite of Spring is a very complicated work, but it's different today. In 1913 when the ballet was first performed, muscially it was a shock to the audience. Today we are more used to the score — because of rock and punk, it’s less shocking. But it remains a very complex work. This can sometimes hinder choreographers.

The Rite of Spring represents pagan Russia and includes a large number of pagan rites. Have you changed the nature of these pagan rites to fit your own interpretation of the ballet? I did not stick to the book. I kept the idea of the Chosen One, but I chose to work democratically, making each and every male and female dancer into the Chosen One at a given moment. I deliberately made sure there is a sharing of roles.

What have you done with the costumes to give the ballet a 21st century edge? Choreographers bring their own aesthetic, and this also goes into their costumes. I wanted to keep it simple, create an everyday effect. But I also went for a rock ‘n’ roll look, inspired by the costumes of the 1950s. So the dancers wear jeans or black pants with a jacket and a shirt. Then as the dancers strip, they take off their shirts and their pants until they are in underwear. When they get dressed again, they end up

looking slightly different. This provides variety.

How do you feel about bringing Rite of Spring to Vietnam? What should the audience expect? Will the performance in Vietnam arouse the same controversy as it did when it first played in Paris? I have no idea. It is a strange meeting of cultures — I have no idea how people will receive the performance. The idea is to try to make something attractive and pleasing, but without creating unnecessary provocation. In Muslim countries, we cannot strip down to our underwear, for example, so the dancers stay dressed. It does not change the nature of what is performed. There may also be some sort of cultural shock — this happened to us in Kazakhstan. The show may be well-received. It may also be rejected. But that is art. Personally I think people should go and see for themselves and form their own judgements.

In your opinion, what makes your version of this ballet special? There is a scenic simplicity. The scenery feels and looks like an empty parking lot or a slightly open games room. The same goes for the lighting — it is used to make you feel like you’re in an open, public space. Dance can sometimes be annoying to the eye, and as there are several different things happening at the same time, the audience may find it difficult to know what they should focus on. But that is part of the idea. The performance also doesn’t necessarily have a central story or a plot. Instead it is a combination of many elements — impressions of human beings caught and stuck in typical human situations. It’s like travelling through a city and catching glimpses of people’s lives. There is no hero or heroine. Instead, through these glimpses we create something that everyone can identify with. And through this we create a whole, a roadmap so to speak. This interview has been edited and condensed.

Information The Rite of Spring is being brought to Vietnam as part of the 40-year celebration of diplomatic relations between France and Vietnam. It will be performed by the Centre Chorégraphique National of Grenoble and the Paris-based Théâtre National de Chaillot. The Ho Chi Minh City performance will take place at 8pm on Jun. 27 at Ben Thanh Theatre, 6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1. Doors open at 8pm.

For information on purchasing tickets, email culturel@consulfrance-hcm.org

June 2013 Word | 43

The Flower Lady After one false start, former advertising executive Quynh Anh’s flower arranging business, Padma de Fleur, is starting to blossom. Words by Karen Hewell, photos by Kyle Phanroy and Mads Monsen

lley 200 is hardly distinguishable from the countless others on Le Thanh Ton. 10 metres of asphalt away from the busy hustle of Ben Thanh Market, a grumpy parking attendant lounges on his motorbike at its entrance, halfheartedly guarding a narrow stairwell with flaking yellow walls. A simple wooden sign hangs above the doorway — in dark green letters it reads Padma de Fleur. When I point to it, the grumpy parking attendant glances up and grunts, “Flower?” Quynh Anh sits in her workshop at the top of the stairs, Florence and the Machine playing low over a makeshift sound system built into a shelved wall dense with her livelihood: beaded vases, figurines, sequins and stacks of books. The Ho Chi Minh City florist’s workshop is part antique shop, part greenhouse — every inch of space around her is occupied by some colour or texture. “‘Padma’ means ‘lotus flower’ in Sanskrit,” she says. Her fingers are looped around the stems of

six dormant lotus pods. She works a handful of green stem wrap around each of them while cosy masses of leaves and petals graze her busy hands. The lotus is her favourite, and a regular in her designs for Padma de Fleur. Its symbolism for purity and resilience comes from its unique proclivity to flourish in muddy ponds, a characteristic that has earned it a special veneration among Vietnamese people, and with Quynh Anh herself. Perhaps it is because of this, much like the flower after which she named her shop, that Quynh Anh has a certain, rare fortitude.

Planting the Seed Dressed to match the effervescence of her workspace in mismatched earrings and vivid red lipstick, Quynh Anh is surprisingly frank about her initial motivations in starting her floral design business. She insists that it was more to do with circumstance. “I mean, I like flowers,” she says, “[…] but it’s not something I was dying [to do].”

Flowers and Their Meanings

A victim of the economic downturn, the former advertising executive was forced into a frustrating carousel of short-term jobs after a layoff in 2007, none lasting more than a few months. “After a certain point I thought maybe it was time to do something that was under my control,” she says with a smile. She eventually abandoned the notion of finding a job and took up the task of creating one for herself. Her inspiration was something of a surprise, since instead of moving in the predictable direction of something close to her advertising roots, Quynh Anh chose something that she had learned to do in a French class alongside a VJ and a Japanese toilet designer. “One girl in the class asked if [her classmates] were interested in learning how to make a bouquet,” she recalls. “There were three of us [learning]. Each of us had the same amount of flowers. Everything we had was the same, but the outcome was very different — they actually portrayed our personality.”

“The meanings of flowers are what we want them to carry,” says Quynh Anh. But here’s what she thinks about each.

Lisianthus

Lily

Vietnamese name: Cat tuong

Vietnamese name: Lily

Where it grows: Warm regions of the southern United States, Mexico, the Caribbean and northern areas of South America

Where it grows: Different kinds are found around the world

Symbolism: Congeniality and charisma Quynh Anh’s perspective: They were once thought to symbolise a person who is particularly showy or impressive back in the Victorian era. Yet, today the significance is rich and varied and the lisianthus is a great alternative to the rose.

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Symbolism: Purity Quynh Anh’s perspective: The majority of people believe that the lily is luxurious and elegant, probably because it’s one of the most expensive flowers and has a great fragrance. When using it for weddings, it’s better to double check with the parents, as ‘li’ means separation in Vietnamese.

Taking Root Quynh Anh continued making bouquets for friends and improving with the help of YouTube and floral design books, stacks of which now occupy half a wall of her workshop. Her originally prim and proper bouquets (“we can’t be the black sheep in Vietnam”) transformed into illustrations of the recipients’ personalities. But the hobby only became a serious

venture with the frustration of an unsteady career. In a burst of confidence, Quynh Anh threw caution to the wind and first opened Padma de Fleur in 2007. The bold move had less than stellar results, and the fledgling company only lasted a year before dwindling funds forced her to close up shop. “I didn’t sell much back then,” she admits. “I don’t think the market was ready, [and] I didn’t really have a plan.”

Orchid

Hydrangea

Vietnamese name: Hoa lan

Vietnamese name: Cam tu cau

Where it grows: The world’s richest concentration of orchid varieties is found in the tropics — mostly Asia, South America and Central America Symbolism: Femininity and exotic beauty Quynh Anh’s perspective: Everybody likes orchids. They’re a safe choice, but you need a thick wallet.

Undeterred, Quynh Anh opened again in 2010, this time with a strategy and a new group of clientele. “Now that Vietnamese people are not worried about affording food, they’re transitioning into caring about quality of life,” she says, speaking of her majority Vietnamese clientele. Padma de Fleur creates original design concepts for weddings, product launches, formal dinners and store openings, among her collections

Where it grows: Southern and eastern Asia — China, Japan, Korea, the Himalayas and Indonesia — and the Americas Symbolism: Earnestness Quynh Anh’s perspective: I love this flower’s fluffiness, and I use it for large-scale arrangements. Big help.

June 2013 Word | 45

for special occasions like birthdays and anniversaries.

Blooming with Life Quynh Anh holds an empty vase in her hands, turning it over to show me the detail of the red lace and blue denim fabric wrapped around its exterior. “His colour was blue and hers was red. The flowers were purple — if you mix blue and red together, it becomes purple,” she explains, telling me about her design inspiration for a recent wedding. “We used red flowers and blue water in the reception area, [but] when you came into the dining area it was all purple.” The careful contemplation of the couples’ story is no different from the thoughtfulness behind each of her designs. Each flower and flourish is chosen carefully to convey the story and characteristics of each client, and no detail is left untouched. A dinner for only male guests with deliberately muted colours and simple blooms; a bar opening

Flowers and Their Meanings Lotus

Rose

Vietnamese name: Hoa sen

Vietnamese name: Hoa hong

Where it grows: In murky ponds in warm climates — specifically tropical Asian ones

Where it grows: Most species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America and northwestern Africa

Symbolism: Spiritual growth Quynh Anh’s perspective: It’s my favourite flower. I use both the pod and bloom for many of my designs.

46 | Word June 2013

Symbolism: Deep and enduring love Quynh Anh’s perspective: A classic! Consequently, when a man offers a woman a rose, he isn’t that creative and adventurous.

with vegetables, crates and a tree to mimic an outdoor market; an evening wedding with candles and lights to illuminate the flora — each concept is as rich and vibrant as the story behind it. Quynh Anh seems less like a florist and more like a storyteller — her own story being one of pioneering, mindfulness and ambition. The same creativity and perseverance that emerged from amateur arrangements for her friends remains a constant in her work today. Every creation is a work in progress. “I’m never satisfied with anything that I make,” she says while adding another lotus pod to an incomplete bouquet in her hand. Regardless, she shows no signs of slowing down. Like her favourite flower, Quynh Anh is a testament to resilience, and how beauty can bloom from the most unlikely of sources. Padma de Fleur is at Floor 2, 200 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. For more information go to padmadefleur.vn. Quynh Anh also runs flower arranging courses. Call 0835 079279 for details

Gerbera

Chrysanthemum

Vietnamese name: Dong tien

Vietnamese name: Hoa cuc

Where it grows: Native to South Africa

Where it grows: Asia and northeastern Europe

Symbolism: Cheerfulness

Symbolism: Fidelity

Quynh Anh’s perspective: I used to think that the gerbera was charmless due to overuse. Yet, I have found the opposite the more I work with it. Black eye gerbera gives the feeling of modernity and the variety of colours are great.

Quynh Anh’s perspective: The Vietnamese perception is that these are flowers for the altar or an offering. I’m working hard to shift this perception.

June 2013 Word | 47

INSIDER

A Meaningful Memento Based in Vinh Long, Viet Artisans produce beautiful, hand-crafted products that reflect the country’s heritage. The project also provides work and support for women from disadvantaged families. Words by Tess Somerville, photos by Mads Monsen

“Viet Artisans provides a living wage, a safe and comfortable working environment, scholarships for their children to keep them enrolled in school, and most importantly, the stability needed to plan for the future”

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June 2013 Word | 49

here’s certainly no shortage of souvenirs to be bought in Ho Chi Minh City. Stainless steel miniature cyclos, plastic-wrapped non la and paper fans all have an invasive presence in the city centre. These knick-knacks line sidewalks and fill local markets to bursting — endless reproductions of a crystallised image of what tourists imagine Vietnam to be, a homage to a country that is becoming more and more difficult to grasp. Viet Artisans offers an alternative for those wishing to take something home that is well-crafted, and in the gift-buying process helps them to enrich their experience of Vietnam. Even more importantly, the social enterprise redirects all profits made from their handmade crafts back to members of Vietnamese society that are in great need of aid — economically disadvantaged women in rural Vietnam.

Teach a Man to Fish The project was launched one year ago by Lily Phan and her aunt Lan as a way to create jobs for women in Vinh Long Province in the Mekong Delta. A Vinh Long native who grew up in the US, Lily wanted to put the money she earned in the private sector abroad towards job creation in rural areas in her home country. “My early childhood in the 1980s [before

50 | Word June 2013

Vietnam opened up] left a very deep impression on me,” she says. “I was lucky enough to grow up in the US. When I got back I saw that people were very hard working but didn’t have the opportunity to break the poverty cycle.” Lily’s aunt Lan was likewise eager to get involved in job creation. Being disabled, Lan is no stranger to struggle. “I already know what it’s like to have it hard, but when I do charity work I see that other people’s lives are harder than mine,” she explains. “I see women with no jobs, whose husbands have no jobs, and I want to give them some sort of help, to give them a skill that they can take with them.” With their ‘teach a man to fish’ initiative, Lily and Lan began work building a workshop on Lily’s grandmother’s land, located on the beautiful little island of An Binh. The open air structure, built largely by volunteer labour, is beautiful and simple — a tile floor, a thatched roof, bamboo screens to protect from the rain, and rustic benches and tables hand-carved from upcycled wood. Unfortunately, it is vastly more comfortable and secure than the homes many of the workers live in.

The Workers According to Lan, a few of the women live in worn-down thatch-roofed huts in grave need of repair — they also have to deal

with major flooding during rainy season. Others, like expectant mother Ty, are forced to squat in public buildings. Ty currently resides at a local church with her husband and 13-year-old son. Her dream is to one day earn enough to buy her own land and build a house for her family. Before coming to Viet Artisans, these women, aged 18 to 40, mainly did odd jobs as fruit pickers, vendors, factory workers or even construction workers. Their work was physically taxing and financially unreliable. While many still struggle to support their families, Viet Artisans provides a living wage, a safe and comfortable working environment, scholarships for their children to keep them enrolled in school, and most importantly, the stability needed to plan for the future. It was difficult to generate interest in the programme at first, even when Lan and Lily went door to door reaching out to those living in the worst conditions. A lack of trust, as well as pressure from jealous or possessive husbands, made many women hesitant to join. Today, now the effectiveness of the programme has been proven, and many women are eager to participate. Unfortunately, Viet Artisans now has more applicants than it is able to support. Beneficiaries are chosen based solely on financial need. Because most of the women come with no craft skills, and often with

hands that are gnarled and swollen from manual labour, production is not always fast. However, each product is made with care and attention, and is made to reflect the workers’ heritage. The pieces often showcase images representing an important aspect of Vietnamese culture or history, for example a bronze drum (an ancient part of Vietnamese spiritual life, representing wealth and power) or a lotus flower (the national flower of Vietnam, signifying beauty, purity and transcendence).

The Products Each piece comes with a card explaining its meaning, giving some background information on the history of Vietnam, or explaining the country’s current condition. “We think there is a lot of richness in Vietnamese culture,” Lily explains. “However, Vietnamese society is globalising too fast. Every year tourists come looking for something a little more vintage, but instead they see more and more of these concrete jungles — they don’t get to let the culture really sink in.” Accompanying a handbag made from upcycled rice sacks, for example, is a traditional Vietnamese poem about the importance of rice — “When you hold a bowl of rice / Every single white grain / contains the farmer’s sweat.” A reusable tote bag comes with a card explaining Vietnam’s fragile ecological condition. A notebook

comes with the wish that the owner will travel through the country, see all that Vietnam has to offer, and document the journey. Viet Artisans relies not only on the time and energy of its volunteers, but also on their creativity. Many of the contributing designers are volunteers in their early 20s. Current resident designer Tony Dang is a self-proclaimed jack-of-all-trades — an artisan, bike mechanic and tattoo artist, among other things. The California native will be staying in Vinh Long for the next few months to contribute ideas and to help the ladies hone their craft and develop their aesthetics. Tony’s modern and edgy sensibilities combine with Lan’s elegant style, resulting in products that are multifunctional, environmentally friendly, and extremely attractive.

Vietnamese designs. During my visit I had a chance to learn how to screen print a bronze drum onto my own tote bag under Tony and Lan’s guidance. Right now a large part of their market is hotels and corporate gifts in major cities in Vietnam. “We sell [these products] to people staying in five-star hotels,” Lily explains. “In doing so, we are creating gifts for some of the richest people in the world that are made by some of the poorest people in the world. We’re providing meaningful crafts, something that people can bring home to share their experiences with their families, closing the gap between those two groups.” Since many of the workers have never had the opportunity to leave Vinh Long Province, it’s nice to think that some of their creations may find homes all across the world.

The Future Lily hopes for Viet Artisans to one day evolve into its own brand. She also hopes to expand in order to have schools all around the country, using materials indigenous to each region and creating products that reflect the unique culture of each locality. Schools and workshops will not only provide a space for beneficiaries to learn and create, but will also serve as a fun getaway for visitors and city dwellers who wish to relax as well as learn about crafting and traditional

Information You can find Viet Artisans’ products in Ho Chi Minh City at L’usine Café (70B Le Loi, Q1). They are also sold at Six Senses Con Dao, Banyan Tree Lang Co, La Residence and Fusion Maia. To contact Viet Artisans to arrange for a craft workshop, visit their website at vietartisans.org

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Should you try and be the first into a market? Or should you enter an already established arena? As Nick Ross discovers there are benefits in both.

hen Coco Beach opened in Mui Ne in 1995, it was the first resort to take advantage of the untouched stretch of sand that ran just north of Phan Thiet to the fishing village of Mui Ne. Fast forward 18 years and that whole area has either been parcelled up or developed. Yet Coco Beach co-owners Jutta and Daniel Arnaud remember the early days well. It was their discovery and then later their investment and risk that was to eventually catapult the area into what it has become today. “[We found the beach] purely by accident,” recalls Daniel. “One day, crossing through Phan Thiet, our driver took a wrong turn and drove us down the road leading to a small fishing village called Mui Ne. As we stopped the car to ask directions, we got out and climbed over some small sand dunes that were bordering the road.” What they discovered was “the most pristine, untouched and beautiful bay” they had seen in their travels. It was also the only beach they had discovered in Vietnam that was bordered by thousands of coconut trees. The search for somewhere to open up a resort had started some time before. With a background working in hospitality and event management, the couple had dreamed of one day becoming their own bosses. In the early 1990s, Vietnam was an emerging destination, so they decided to fly over and see for themselves. “We quickly realised the potential of more than 3,000km of seacoast,” says Daniel. “The geographical location — smack in the middle of Southeast Asia — promised optimal weather conditions, similar to those of Thailand. So we started travelling along the coast, from Ha Tien at the foot of the

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Mekong Delta to Tuy Hoa and Qui Nhon, in search of the perfect beach.” Receiving an investment license in July 1994, 12 months later Coco Beach opened its doors to the public. They were officially the first ‘resort’ in Vietnam and they were also the first property to be connected up to the electricity line that had just been laid between Phan Thiet and Mui Ne. Daniel adds: “It certainly was great to be the first and only [resort in the area], but after a year or so, we were on the lookout for new projects to help us develop Ham Tien and Mui Ne as a real tourist destination with a larger choice of accommodation. Our initial 17 rooms were not enough to attract the big tour operators’ interest in promoting the destination.”

The Challenge

When American-born Dr. Wade Brackenbury and his wife came to Ho Chi Minh City to set up the country’s first chiropractic clinic, Wade was moving to his fourth country in Asia. Despite having already set up clinics elsewhere in the region, Vietnam proved to be the hardest nut to crack. Getting his license alone took a year — the various authorities involved had never licensed a chiropractic clinic before. He also faced another challenge of the first-timer, “to learn how to hire and work with good Vietnamese employees, and to create a positive, effective team”. It is a challenge he seems to have overcome. Eight years later he has managed to keep much of his original staff. “Being the first in is more difficult [than entering an established market],” explains Dr. Wade. “We spent a lot of time, money and effort to set a legal precedent for our

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Family photo by Mario Lance

â&#x20AC;&#x153;With a background working in hospitality and event management, the couple had dreamed of one day becoming their own bosses. In the early 1990s, Vietnam was an emerging destination, so they decided to fly over and see for themselvesâ&#x20AC;?

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;It usually takes a lot more time and money than it seems it would at first. You will most likely be working hard, and for a longer time than you expected before you are successfulâ&#x20AC;?

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form of healthcare. We also took a very real, but calculated, risk that our model of treatment would be well-received in this country. There is a very real price both financially and emotionally that you need to be willing to [pay] in order to be the first in your industry in Vietnam.” He adds: “What was helpful for me was that I had set up some of the first of these types of clinics in Malaysia more than a decade before. That experience was an advantage. [Together with my wife] we knew it would be hard to do, and we had realistic ideas on how to make it work, based on our experiences and success in other, less difficult Asian countries.”

First In

As most business owners will tell you, there is certainly an advantage if you can say you’re first in. Indeed as Ralf Matthaes of market research firm TNS explains, if you’re there for the long haul and have a long-term strategy, then it can pay dividends. But “any company that goes in [first to a market] for a quick buck is going to burn”. It’s all about creating longevity. Such is the case with the present freefor-all that seems to be taking place in Myanmar. Having set up a branch of TNS in Yangon, according to Ralf there is certainly a feeling that “the vultures are coming”. Yet, it’s not quite like that. With the world economy currently in a prolonged recession, “everybody is looking for growth”. Ralf personally helped bring Coca-Cola into Myanmar and already has 15 FMCG (Fast Moving Consumer Goods) clients who are either in the country or on their way. He adds: “How many countries of 60 million people have suddenly opened up in the world? Myanmar is a very unique, special place.” With Myanmar today almost identical to Vietnam in 1995 — when the then-emerging tiger economy was the investment flavour of its day — there is one big difference between the two nations. In Myanmar, says Ralf, “10 percent of the urban income class is wealthy. 20 years ago nobody was wealthy in Vietnam. There are as many cars in Yangon [now] as there are in Ho Chi Minh City.” At the same time, a third of the country’s population lives below the poverty line, meaning that the general consumer in Myanmar does not have any purchasing power beyond what they require for their daily needs. The result is that the first entry companies

have to think long-term and “work on brand building and on gaining trust. So, it’s not like you’re coming into Myanmar all of a sudden with a good product and a good price. The consumer doesn’t have money.”

Bring on the Competition

For Jutta and Daniel, convincing tourists coming to Vietnam back in the mid-1990s to face the then six to eight-hour journey to an isolated stretch of beach was tough. They were lucky. On Oct. 24, 1995, Phan Thiet turned out to be the best location in the whole of Southeast Asia to observe a total solar eclipse. The eclipse itself was “spectacular” and the event attracted some 1,500 scientists and about 50,000 viewers both local and from overseas. Together with Jutta’s work attracting the attention of the main German tour operators, and the local inbound tourism agencies from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the eclipse “helped tremendously… and placed Phan Thiet on the world map”. Over the next few years other resorts came to the area. At first, says Daniel, “This helped to open up new markets and increased visitor numbers.” Later it forced them “to remain on top of the game through structural improvements, renovation, creation of additional services, new decoration ideas and better training of the staff.” Says Daniel: “It’s always difficult to be the first one in creating a market, because everything has to be done from scratch… [When we started] there was no power, no telephone, no trained staff, no specialised supplier in the market. We had to get over all those hurdles while the people who followed just had to build and open.” Dr. Wade agrees — being first in is not always ideal. He offers the following advice, “If [you are the first in] purely for financial reasons or the business opportunity, it might not be worth it. If you think that way, then you are most likely underestimating the obstacles and suffering you will have to endure.” However, if you really desire to do something, something that might possibly make a difference, “then make sure that you will be able to be happy here while doing it. “It usually takes a lot more time and money than it seems it would at first. You will most likely be working hard, and for a longer time than you expected before you are successful.”

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The master nail nipper grinder behind renowned ‘Made in Vietnam’ brand Kem Nghia explains his path from street stall to stock exchange. Words by Ed Weinberg, translation by Francis Xavier and Kim Chen-Garel, photo by Alexandre Garel

“I

t’s a coincidence.” Nguyen Minh Tuan, the 51-yearold chairman of Kem Nghia and master ‘nipper grinder’, explains the start of one of the world’s leading brands of nail nippers. As if it’s a path anyone could follow. After the war, it was difficult to get work in Vietnam. Tuan resorted to manual labour and had inconsistent employment. Wanting to help him out, his sister brought him into the salon she worked at, to sharpen the nippers people took in. He’d done some metalwork in the past, but nothing as specialised as this. But he did it well. And the demand was there, finally, for something he could do. A few months later he was working in the District 5 shop where he learned his trade, with the man he still refers to as his master. He’d found his calling.

On the Straight and Narrow After a visit to a workshop in District 11, he saw how business should be conducted, “with tables, nice uniforms, secretaries, a cocktail on the side”. He was nearing a year in his District 5 apprenticeship when he took a job in District 1 — where real money was being made. In District 1, he learned the business from the inside. They didn’t only grind nippers, but also

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stocked various salon and beauty products. And they sold something arguably more valuable than convenience and selection — good customer service and trust. Tuan took these traits with him when he struck out on his own, operating a street stall near his former place of employment. Starting with an investment of just US$200, for the first few years things were tight. Then, in 1992, he incorporated, and all hell broke loose.

Cutting Edge

Tuan has his progress as neatly categorised as his regional branding — “blue appeals to westerners”, I’m told of the export-only

brand Omi’s departure from Kem Nghia lime green. He charts Kem Nghia’s evolution in 10-year phases. The first 10 years he spent building his skills. Now it was 1992, and it was time to do something with them. Nghia Saigon began production on nail nippers that corrected the basic failings of most Vietnamese models — they were sharp, and stayed that way. So convinced was Tuan of his offering’s superiority, he did something unheard of in Vietnam at the time, offering a no-hassle return policy. He also made other clever moves, such as placing an early emphasis on branding. The branding was based on his nickname, Nghia, which translates to ‘meaningful’. Instead of the standard plastic clamshell packaging, he packaged his nippers in a resealable box, so people could check the action before buying. The nippers themselves carried the brand name, and the packaging carried some confidence-instilling English, although the reassuring word was an ironic one, ‘budget’. As the brand began its steady climb to its current 80 percent domestic market share, a few lucky things occurred. One was not so fortuitous in wider terms, but still a boon for the young brand — the rising awareness of HIV/AIDS, which motivated people to invest in their own personal pair of nippers. The other was a textbook case of ‘right place, right time’.

“Nghia Saigon began production on nail nippers that corrected the basic failings of most Vietnamese models — they were sharp, and stayed that way. So convinced was Tuan of his offering’s superiority, he did something unheard of in Vietnam at the time, offering a no-hassle return policy”

World Beaters

At this time, another Vietnamese phenomenon was happening in the nail world, one which led to the current 30 percent of Kem Nghia’s sales deriving from the international market. In the US, the Viet Kieu had taken over the nail trade, and from 1994 they started returning to Vietnam, where Kem Nghia had already gained a reputation. The nippers were quality and cost about one-tenth of the going rate for the salon standard-issue used in the US. VietnameseAmericans loaded up their suitcases with Kem Nghia nippers, reselling them and flooding the American market, which Kem Nghia only formally entered in 2006. These days, they have big plans for the future. The present 10-year plan is devoted to the international market, and they’ve done their research. Poland will be their entry into the European market, and they won’t use the colour yellow in their branding there — it’s a sign of cheapness. “It’s like trying to promote wealth in Asia without using red,” one of my translators tells me. And, as Kem Nghia stays true to its mission — reinvesting in new technology, local training and up-to-date factories — it wears its ‘Made in Vietnam’ status proudly, as something people look for when they buy nail products. Like the nails that Kem Nghia nippers make presentable, their birthplace also benefits from their precise quality. They say nails are a good indicator as to how a person takes care of himself, and Tuan’s are immaculate. As the interview comes to a close, our photographer asks about Tuan’s long pinkie nail, an outlier among his other short fingernails. Tuan tells him that sometimes you have an itch you just can’t scratch, and it’s good to have one fingernail that can reach it.

Nippers v. Clippers A nail ‘nipper’ is a sharp, scissor-like tool used to cut back cuticles in preparation for a manicure or pedicure. It looks like something out of a medieval torture toolkit, and can also be used to precisely cut through thick toenails. A nail ‘clipper’ is the normal levered cheapie boys use to keep their nails in check. It relies on force to do its cutting, and as such doesn’t need to be kept so sharp.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have a fleet of 50 bikes, and I would say nowhere in the world is somebody using a fleet of antiques and putting them through what we put these things throughâ&#x20AC;?

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From a Vespa export business to road adventures on classic motorbikes, Steve Mueller has evolved his love of the classic Italian scooter into a viable business. Words by Karen Hewell, photos by Alexandre Garel

y orange deck chair sits behind a squat table, the condensation on my beer shivering from the rumble of passing traffic just a few metres away. Café Zoom, headquarters of city tour company Vietnam Vespa Adventures, sits alongside one of the city’s busiest intersections. Owner Steve Mueller lounges back in his chair next to me, clearly accustomed to the perpetual racket on this busy corner of De Tham. He doesn’t seem fazed as he takes another swig from his own sweaty beer mug. “I’m not really a bike guy back home, but when you come to Vietnam, how can you not be a bike guy?” Steve arrived to our interview on a taupe Vespa, which sputtered and popped to a halt on the pavement. Painted on its flank is the tour company’s insignia — an orange outline of what looks like a grinning man in a rice hat driving a motorbike. It now sits to our left next to its siblings, six other vintage Vespas with similar paint jobs. “Think of a vintage, classic vehicle — they are a weekend ride,” he says. “You don’t see people taking their antique car to work. We have a fleet of 50 bikes, and I would say nowhere in the world is somebody using a fleet of antiques and putting them through what we put these things through.” The concept is certainly a bizarre one.

The fleet — a collection of nearly 50 classic Vespas, all originals from the 60s and early 70s — are ridden regularly around the unforgiving urban jungle of Ho Chi Minh City and beyond. Vietnam Vespa Adventures is a tour company for all intents and purposes. What sets it apart, however, are the unexpected workhorses that are the backbone of the operation. “A Vespa is an incredible machine,” Steve says. He should know, since his own Vespas traverse roads that few motorbikes in the city ever will.

Classic Bikes and Bright Ideas

Steve arrived in Vietnam after nearly a year of travelling the world — that was almost 14 years ago. Just as soon as he arrived, he recognised that without two wheels, there was no easy way of getting anywhere around the city. Steve, though, was only interested if he got to do it in style. He bought himself a Vespa, a cheap one, that demanded constant maintenance to stay running. His DIY mechanics crash course paid off though. Before long word got around about his expertise. “I told a few friends back home that I was riding an old Vespa. They said, ‘I’ve got to have one of those’, so I started a business exporting bikes.” The exporting continued until a regular client made an off-handed comment: “How

cool would it be to do tours on Vespas?” Steve, already a road trip enthusiast, saw the opportunity and ran with it.

Keeping it Simple

The idea was a big one and took a full year to come to fruition. Slowly Steve collected enough bikes, drivers and mechanics to get the venture up and running. Included was the café owned by his then girlfriend, now wife, who became an integral part of the operation when she took the lead in bike purchases with her two cents: “You’re paying too much!” The seven-day adventure tours began in 2006, and since then have expanded into both long-range tours with a ‘pit crew’ of mechanics along for the ride as well as shorter city tours. Every tour’s itinerary feels like something plucked from Steve’s own travel diary — locations are often his personal favourites, hidden down sleepy alleyways or up darkened stairwells. Almost seven years later, Steve still makes time to come along with a few tours every week, braving the heat on his own Vespa with sunglasses and a grin. He obviously loves what he does, and his philosophy matches the smile on his face: “Find your passion, keep it simple and be patient.” For more information on the tours go to vietnamvespaadventures.com

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From one restaurant space to four, all adjacent, 30 years of steady development now sees Bun Moc Thanh Mai serve over 3,000 customers a day. Words by Tess Somerville, photo by Alexandre Garel

ust around the corner from one of Saigon’s most famous landmarks is a lesser known but nonetheless glorious structure: a pyramid of soup. The staff at Bun Moc Thanh Mai — located around the corner from Ben Thanh market — must stack bowls upon bowls of its delicious products in order to serve the restaurant’s ever-growing customer base. Kim, a businessman from South Korea, goes there every time he’s in the city. He was instantly drawn to the establishment when he saw it from his nearby hotel. “I prefer local food, not food for foreigners,” he explains. “When I saw the crowd of locals I thought there must be delicious things happening there.” And many seem to agree with him — since its founding in 1980, the establishment’s daily consumption of rice vermicelli has grown from 40-ish kg to 400kg. Current owner and manager Hoang Dao attributes the business’s success to two things — knowing its target market and perfecting its product.

Fueling the Economy

Bun Moc Thanh Mai represents two key aspects of Vietnamese culture — an industrious spirit and high gastronomic standards. It aptly responds to downtown workers’ demands for fast, affordable meals as well as their unwillingness to sacrifice quality and taste. Although the dish originated in the northern town of Ha Tay, bun moc is perfectly suited to Saigon’s sweaty and bustling atmosphere. Unlike heartier

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soups, it is nourishing without being nap-inducing. Light broth and thin rice vermicelli make it easy to digest while delicate balls of pork sausage provide the sustenance needed to get you through the day. Co-founder Mai Dao perfected her recipe using a day-to-day process of trial and error and welcome input from her family and friends in order to achieve what she describes as a “complete taste”. The flavours are simple and familiar. Noodles, meaty pork bones, peppery balls of gio song (raw pork sausage) and cha lua (cured sausage) bathe in a broth made from stewing pork bones with shitake mushrooms, scallions, sugar, fish sauce and other spices. Accompanied by the ubiquitous heap of fresh herbs and veggies, a squeeze of lime, some chilli and a splash of fish sauce, the dish is unsurprising but ultimately satisfying. Regular Thanh Cong stops in for a bowl at least once a week on his way to work at a District 1 police station. He says that in addition to being easy on the stomach and on the wallet, Mai’s bun moc is the most delicious in the city. “Vietnamese people know bun moc well, so [the restaurant] cook[s] a good flavour for them.” Kim says Bun Moc Thanh Mai will continue to be a favourite way for him to experience Saigon food culture and fuel up for exploring the city. “Oh, and [bun moc] is great for hangovers, too!” he adds with a grin. Bun Moc Thanh Mai is at 14 Truong Dinh, Q1 on the corner of Nguyen An Ninh

“Bun Moc Thanh Mai represents two key aspects of Vietnamese culture — an industrious spirit and high gastronomic standards. It aptly responds to downtown workers’ demands for fast, affordable meals as well as their unwillingness to sacrifice quality and taste”

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One person’s trash is another’s treasure… or at least, the equivalent of a decent meal. Words Ed Weinberg, translation and photo this spread Francis Xavier, overleaf photo Alexandre Garel

f your house has a trashcan, you’ve seen the recycling ladies. Some ride pushbikes and others push carts, some buy your scrap and others dig through trash bags for it. They’re a part of life here, emblematic of a deep sustainable instinct in the Vietnamese people, dangerously close to a quaint wisdom-of-the-people sentimental tale — for those who don’t live it. In Thao Dien, a recycling circuit is run by a group of pushbike ladies from Thanh Hoa Province, deep in North-Central Vietnam, where better opportunities are scarce. Can Lua, 35, who has worked in construction since he came here “three or five” years ago, made VND600,000 per season in Thanh Hoa, farming rice, chicken and livestock. In a year, there are two harvest seasons. We meet them in the shade of some palm trees, nearing lunchtime. They’d stopped down an alley, inspecting the trash bag wall opposite some towering villa gates when we set upon them. Smiling, they invite us to sit down. Cai, 45, was the first in the group to come down from Thanh Hoa, 13 years ago. She worked in construction for the first 10 years before her back started giving her pain. For the past three years she’s worked in recycling, and her back feels much better. She’s pulling in about the same amount, VND5 million or VND6 million per month, in uneven, lucky chunks. She wears a non la she found covered in writing, which she picked up because she “likes English”. When photographer Alex offers to sign it she declines, saying she already has enough French and English. “You should write some Japanese,” she says in translation, smiling.

On their way home they stop at the scrapyard, untying their hauls from their bicycles’ rain guards. They weigh them — first on a scale they carry with them and then on the scrapper’s own — taking home VND310,000 (at VND2,800/kg) between the three who are collecting together, and it’s not even noon yet. This is what qualifies as a lucky day. They invite us down some back alleys towards the north of the Thao Dien peninsula, where they live in a block of connected one-rooms with their Thanh Hoa compatriots, paying VND1.5 million a month for uneven electricity and two hours of water a day. The whole cul-de-sac is out to receive us. Sitting in a circle with the women, two rambunctious children zooming around us, they tell us a bit more.

The Shadow Economy

In this little, fenced-off lane, the detritus of life surrounds us. There are motorbikes and clothes on drying racks, reclaimed posters and anonymous metal objects, open doors everywhere. Though they send most of the nice pickups back to Thanh Hoa, they keep a few for themselves. Most of the shacks have televisions picked up from people who’ve upgraded to flat-screens, like the one nineyear-old Thu watches pop singers on as she sits at home with her two-year-old brother. Right now, he’s prowling around with a spoon. They all agree that people are never mean, and even going solo isn’t a big thing, unless they run into a heavy item. Most are kind, like the rich Vietnamese people who give them clothing, or the rich westerners who give electronics or things they’re leaving

behind in a move. Chuong, 37, came here 16 years ago. She and her husband Huong have two children back in Thanh Hoa, where schooling is cheaper. She thinks that the “pinkish, tall, handsome-looking white guys” (aka British) are most generous. One gave her a laptop once. She didn’t know how to use it, and ended up selling it for weight. The big items go to a “Jack of all trades” — a higher-level scrapper with land to store things on. He’s also from Thanh Hoa, but he has money. When pressed, they admit they know little about him, except that he’s from Thanh Hoa, so they can trust him. They don’t know any Saigonese, and only want to work with people from Thanh Hoa. They feel like “strangers in a strange land”. Chuong says in translation, “I don’t expect to get any better [job], with no certificates and insurance.” She would also have to pay more in taxes. Cai is also content with her work life, which includes cleaning houses a couple days a week for VND35,000 to 40,000 an hour. She has four grown children, all in construction, all living in the same sprawling development. She manages to bank about VND1 million a month for a rainy day, but she doesn’t want to use it towards a new career. “Training costs money,” she says, and we leave it at that. Just then, a motorbike putt-putts its way through the arch that separates this alley from the next, carrying about 50 fabric sacks that once held concrete. People smile and shout hellos at him as he smiles ear-to-ear, every bit the conquering hero. When we ask how much he can expect to get from the haul, Cai smiles sadly and says, “Only VND5,000.”

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“When the water level fell, Kim would kick up mud in hopes of finding bomb fragments, bullet casings, nails, anything with metal. ‘I used my feet,’ she says”

A Success Story

Kim Vo, 24, came to Ho Chi Minh City in 2006 from rural Long An Province, where she’d spent the 10 years before that working as a recycler in her after-school time. Kim is now the director of an import-export company that exports cashews, and owns a restaurant in Cambodia. In her past, she was the host of a travel show on Vietnamese TV. She hasn’t forgotten her long education — she also exports the “worthless” cashew husks for use as biofuel. “I always think about [recycling],” Kim says. “It’s in my blood already.” She started scrapping when she was seven. “In my hometown we have an ice cream man,” Kim says with a laugh. “We live in the jungle, he makes homemade ice cream. [So we hear him coming,] ring-ring, and he says, ‘If you have recycling you give me, you have ice cream.’ “I was very naughty. So my mom bought me shoes to wear, and I cut the shoes so that I could have ice cream… At that time I saw people want shoes or bags or something so I started to collect, but not in exchange for ice cream, since I started to get bored with ice cream. I wanted money.” Soon she realised she could scrap metal from the riverbank, as a lot of others were doing. There were no roads to the Cambodian tip of Long An where she grew up, but boats would come through with speakers — “‘I want to buy this…’” When the water level fell, Kim would kick up mud in hopes of finding bomb fragments, bullet casings, nails, anything with metal. “I used my feet,” she says.

A Dangerous Living

It was an area with a “lot of fighting” in its past, and UXOs (unexploded ordnances) were everywhere. The boats wouldn’t take them intact, so the metal would have to be harvested before they were worth anything. Kim knew two brothers who brought home a UXO and tried to cut it down for scrap. The munition went off, killing one and scarring the other. Kim had her own close call. She found a bomb and took it home to show her father, who took it to the central committee. They weighed it and found it was too heavy

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— heavy with an inner charge. But she did take bullets, cutting into them, fishing out the gunpowder. And one day in chemistry, while watching an interesting experiment, she had a mischievous idea. “Together and together,” she says, miming the ingredients, “and like that — it would explode!” She stole one of the combustible ingredients from class and made her way to a basement locker room, where she wrapped it in cigarette foil with some gunpowder, and left it in a suitcase as she ran back to class. But the day was too hot — and soon an explosion shook the school. “Yes,” Kim says, “I was a naughty girl, very naughty.”

Upcycling

When the Thanh Hoa ladies tell me that nine-year-old Thu will start helping with the recycling as soon as her baby brother is old enough to be left alone, I’m surprised. To me, this labour is something you’d only do if you need to, if you have no other choice. As Kim says, “The life of recycling is not nice. Because you pick up something that someone else threw away.” But Thu is a bright, energetic girl, living in a city with the most opportunity this side of Southeast Asia. Maybe her parents don’t see that she has a choice, one that might make her happier. In Kim’s town, they didn’t see that either. She says, “Everyone in my hometown, they see me come here and speak English and go in the western style, and they’re surprised.” When she comes home for visits, they still call her ‘recycle girl’. I ask if it bothers her. “No,” she says. “They just call me that because it’s easy to remember.” She herself remembers that point in her life fondly, with humour and pride. And, while she doesn’t want to go through it again, she still collects beer cans after parties on her Binh Thanh rooftop, getting a thrill from the VND20,000 she turns them into. Working herself into a fervour through this 20-minute retelling of her life story, she remembers the enthusiasm that brought her from there to here. “I always want to recycle,” she tells me, “always, always, always!”

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From selling T-shirts on the beach to opening shops across Asia, Bambou Company has made a splash. Words Harry Hodge, photo Alexandre Garel

he expression “life’s a beach” has particular meaning for France’s Eric Fraboulet. He lived and worked selling his own T-shirts in a restaurant on the sand in Nha Trang after relocating from another continent. He hasn’t looked back since. Coming to Vietnam during its infancy as an emerging market and starting your own clothing line is no mean feat. Bambou Company was created in 2001 with Fraboulet its CEO, along with CIO Jean Lledos. In addition to 14 shops in Vietnam and six in Cambodia, the firm creates and produces private collections on request, and has a license agreement for export that allows the manufacturing and sending of items all over the world.

Concept

The concept behind the brand invokes quality, accessibility, souvenir traits, being fashionable and innovatively designed, while professional service is the standard set in their locations. After working for some time in similar and relevant fields across multiple countries, the guys behind Bambou were looking for a new challenge. They found that challenge in Vietnam and, after initially selling T-shirts on the beach in Nha Trang, they invested in their first shop.

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“When we sold 10 T-shirts in a day [at the beginning] we were so happy,” says Fraboulet, who at one time operated a restaurant in Nice. “Now if we sell that in one day, it’s a problem. Before, the target was tourists. But now it’s all customers.” Lledos, a former personal trainer, echoes this changing perspective. “Ten years ago, the T-shirt market was empty. [But] building your brand at the beginning is difficult.”

Reality

But as with all things, commercial success still hinges on location, location, location. After that first year in Nha Trang, the company began to expand to new markets throughout the country. “For the frequency of customers, [you need to have] the best place in the city,” Fraboulet says in an interview at the flagship Bambou store on Le Loi in District 1. “When you want to be successful, it’s very important.” And the Le Loi shop is a good example. Bright and colourful with attentive but non-aggressive staff, it’s a world different from the hawking atmosphere at Ben Thanh Market, a mere few blocks away. A potential customer will emerge from there and be relieved to browse in the shop’s more relaxed atmosphere. The team behind Bambou point to a more western

shopping experience and well-trained staff as other keys to building the success story. Another adjustment for the company was the move away from traditional cotton materials to bamboo, soybean and other fibres in producing Bambou goods. But part of the brand is having durable, comfortable and breathable clothing in this tropical climate. The company also has expanded its line to all kinds of clothing and accessories, although the variety of T-shirts has also grown. “If someone comes into the shop and doesn’t want a T-shirt, they can get something else,” Fraboulet says. “This is a concept you can apply for every [market].”

Looking Ahead

As for budding entrepreneurs looking to make their mark in a diverse but complicated market, Fraboulet says Vietnam is a wide-open spot full of opportunity in a number of fields. “Be tenacious,” Fraboulet says. “Understand the country and the people. Be aware, be open. The future right now is Asia.” Bambou has stores throughout Vietnam, with new shops opening throughout the continent. For more information visit bamboucompany.com

Ed Weinberg grills the man behind the pop-up BBQ empire, 5ku. Photo by Alexandre Garel

ast year, a specific segment of the happy hour crowd was devastated by the loss of what had quickly become an institution — the expat-nicknamed ‘Pallet Palace’, the third sprawling incarnation of the popup BBQ joint 5ku. The rendition on the corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai attracted a healthy mix of expats and locals, and had just expanded their operations by 20 shipping pallet tables before disappearing into thin air. To the puzzled expats I frequented the place alongside, this vanishing act was symbolic of the ephemeral nature of business in this city and, to a vaguer extent, a reminder of the unknowability of this strange land we found ourselves in. That was before a sharp rebranding and 5ku’s triumphant return to District 1 — in a vacant lot at 29 Thai Van Lung, a location which has recently expanded via a back alley to include another lot at the adjacent 27 Le Thanh Ton and serves an estimated 300 people per night, according to its owner, 32-year-old Dinh Thien Thien. Although a location occasionally comes and goes, Thien’s plywood empire seems set for the long run. It was the dream Thien glimpsed back in July of 2011, on his way back home from a football game. He saw a beautiful vacant space being wasted as a parking lot. He was broke again, something that happened often in the six years he’d been chefing and managing restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City. Just then something clicked, some words he’d heard back in business school — “Low investment, high income.”

Think Different

He borrowed some money and set about building the first 5ku on Nguyen Thong in District 3. The setup cost was VND140 million. VND14 million was spent on the first month’s rent and the same in the security deposit, with the rest spent on pallets, people and infrastructure. “I did everything,” Thien says. “I made the tables, I made the bar, the kitchen. I was the chef.” He also made plenty of mistakes, but still came out with a solid, clean concept.

When asked how he set about creating this world from scratch, Thien answers, “I learnt from the internet, it was easy.” He also learnt from the western movies he saw as a child, movies in which the only escape from dusty streets with a lot of killing was the nearly-as-raw saloon. “I thought, I need to make an open saloon,” he says. Thien, as a lot of the best entrepreneurs in the world have done, was making his ideal

The rent goes up exponentially as owners catch wind of 5ku’s popularity. While the first location in District 3 cost VND14 million per month, a location like the ones in District 1 costs VND300 million in setup costs and VND100 million per month in rent. The nextdoor café, contained between four walls, probably pays something like VND200 million a month. But still, the temporary bike parking that would have occupied this space would only have netted VND20 to 40 million per month. One location lasts one month, another lasts a year. It’s the model. “We’re always moving!” Thien says. “Maybe after a night, we have to move.” Thien’s devil-may-care attitude seems made for this continual uncertainty. The tables at Thai Van Lung have already been burned through by the grill-yourown setups, and Thien plans to invite some friends over to cover the walls at Le Thanh Ton in graffiti — even in the toilets and the kitchen. The classic white tile, which climbs 15m up the wall in places, will hold up the black-and-yellow vinyl 5ku banners.

Think Ahead

world out of what was missing from his current one. And it turned out to be missing from a lot of other people’s as well. This is one of those places where you can sit for hours over a budget-priced beer, as many people do — the waiters aren’t too rushed either. As a matter of fact, that’s the idea. As Thien says, “Here is the station for everybody. People come and go.”

Think Big

Thien’s whimsical empire — named after a spooneristic take on FC Barcelona’s stadium, Camp Nou — expanded quickly from there. Currently they’re at three locations, with the connected District 1 spots and one at 79 Pho Quang in Tan Binh. But they’ve gone through four other tries. “When I got the first one,” Thien says, “I thought, ‘Could I make a system for the 5kus?’ And I decided I needed to.”

But this comfort in collapse doesn’t mean Thien’s not planning for the future. He’s already starting work on the “second step” in the wilds of District 2 — a “5ku village”. He’s loath to disclose details at this early point, but says, “[It will] look like a farm… Someone comes here and tries the countryside.” I press him again on this later in the conversation, and he looses another sly hint. “In the Mekong Delta, you can stay in a homestay,” he says. “But we are in Ho Chi Minh City, not the Mekong Delta.” As far as where his road will lead, especially with the addition of another brother, a recently-graduated architect, Thien isn’t saying much but reveals this tidbit, “I go alone… I always work a lot. It is my way.” Expanding this tack to the advice level, Thien offers this thought to those who’d like to get out of the rat race themselves: “There is one leader on the way. We can do everything together with someone, but there is only one leader on the way.”

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“If music be the food of love,” wrote Shakespeare, “then play on.” Such has been the dedication of a handful of people in this city who have made it their mission to create and support original live music. One of them is Rod Quinton. The man behind Saigon Sound System, Q4 and Cargo Bar, his road to being a venue owner and music promoter has been rocky. But his passion has won through. In his own words, here’s his story. Photo by Alexandre Garel On Getting into live music…

I have always loved live music; I used to go and see a lot of bands in Melbourne. So when I came to Vietnam that is one thing that hit me, the lack of live music. I was seeing a lot of Filipino hotel lobby bands and a couple of songs which I will never forget, like Sha La La La and Lemon Tree, played over and over again everywhere you went, as well as the ubiquitous Hotel California. I discovered live music in this city after going to an Australian Rules grand final function. At about 3 ‘o clock in the afternoon we went on to Blue Gecko and there was a band on — Mark Wildblood with his band Burned by the Sun. Mark was belting out Anarchy in the UK by the Sex Pistols and I was just kind of like, thank you god, there is some music in Saigon. I got involved with music events through Auscham. I joined the committee in 1998 and at that stage the committee put on a yearly Australia Day festival in Vietnam. They brought out some famous Australian rock or pop bands that had been huge Aussie acts in years gone by. My involvement in the committee was putting on the day — so we had to organise food and beverage sponsors, security, sound and light production, and all the logistics that go with putting on a live music event. After I left Auscham I became involved in putting on Loretofest at RMIT, which in many ways was a similar style of event.

On his f irst venue venture - the Hi-Fi…

Towards the backend of the Loretofest period I was introduced to Luke O’ Sullivan, who owns live music venues in Australia called The Hi-Fi. They started out as just one venue in Melbourne — now they’ve got Sydney and Brisbane as well. We got into this discussion about what was going

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on and it ended up with us deciding we would open up a live music venue in Vietnam, The Hi-Fi [in Lucky Plaza, above the old Underground]. Unfortunately it was very short-lived. Soon after our opening weekend, our local partner felt that there weren’t enough people coming in buying bottles of alcohol. So she decided to shift more into a Vietnamese nightclub type. We very quickly drifted apart from a meeting of minds. So my involvement with The Hi-Fi was short lived. But in the process we incorporated Saigon Sound System. It was a collaborative effort [with a number of other people]. So, when The Hi-Fi closed, we decided that it was worth keeping.

On failing in order to succeed and paying to see bands…

I would like to think you don’t need to fail to succeed. But unfortunately that was not the case in our situation — we had a number of failures where we booked acts like Goldie or The Cuban Brothers into The Hi-Fi, but found we couldn’t do those bands there so we had to shift them to The Cage or somewhere else. Suddenly there was an additional cost that we hadn’t counted on for sound and light production, and we had a smaller venue. We were changing the promotion very late in the day and were confusing people — that affected the turn out for the show. So we lost money, but it is fair to say we never lost our determination and desire to get a music scene going here. At those times we felt a great disappointment towards the expat community and the local crowd. Nobody seemed prepared to buy a ticket to come to see music. I am still surprised by that, especially with the number of conversations I have had over many years that there is not enough live music and why don’t any of these bands come to Vietnam? The truth is

they are not going to come unless someone is going to fund it. The simplest way to fund it is by people buying a ticket at the door to get in to see the band. It is changing, but it is nowhere near where it should be. In Saigon we get used to just walking in the door — there is not a door charge culture. It is changing, don’t get me wrong, it has definitely moved on from where it was back then, but it is not where it needs to be.

On bringing in Bob Dylan…

We were confident we had a sponsor locked down that was going to help us cover the cost of getting an artist of that calibre into Vietnam. We knew we were never going to make it on the ticket sales — it just did not make economic sense, particularly with the requirements from Dylan and his band. These guys expect a very high-end production value. Anyway, we had this sponsor that we were sure we had locked down, but it became clear about six weeks before the event that we didn’t have that sponsor any more. So our decision was do we cancel it now and lose a significant deposit that we paid for Dylan and a deposit on sound and lighting? Or do we go ahead knowing that we are very likely to lose a lot more money? We decided to go ahead knowing that it would help us build a reputation. We weren’t going to be able to succeed unless we stuck out our neck a little bit. If we hadn’t have done Dylan, then we wouldn’t have been in the situation to talk to companies like Coca-Cola and Samsung and to be given the opportunity to do something like Soundfest, the huge event that we did last year.

On opening Q4 and then Cargo Bar…

Because we had done Dylan and Soundfest, we started getting agents and bands

contacting us saying that they were coming through Asia and would we be interested in hosting them in Vietnam. The biggest problem we had with every conversation is â&#x20AC;&#x201D; where is the venue? So, we always had an eye out for a space and eventually the warehouse space for Q4 and Cargo came up. We started with Q4 not Cargo. Q4 is a big event space designed for bigger concerts and bigger events. Everything is big. But we realised pretty quickly that we were sitting around

twiddling our thumbs and feeling sorry for ourselves in between those big gigs. It became obvious we needed to put something smaller into the space where there would be more regular events that were also more affordable for local promoters and business groups. So Cargo, as they say, came about from the phrase, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Necessity is the mother of inventionâ&#x20AC;?. We used shipping pallets to create cheap furniture and did everything as cost effectively and efficiently as we

could. We recycled and repurposed as much as we could. We are getting more events but we are still having a hard time convincing people that we are open all the time. People still seem to think we are just an event destination, but we are going to start putting on bands more regularly and making this into a free-of-charge rehearsal space for local bands. We are trying to encourage the local music scene to come down and think of Cargo as a home.

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Cristina Nualart explores the evolution of street art in Vietnam — helped along by one 17-year-old upstart. Photos Cristina Nualart and Alexandre Garel

he painted names and tags around Ho Chi Minh City are not often the exciting, elaborate images that you see in other cities. But graffiti here doesn’t carry the negatives it does elsewhere — an eyesore to some — as it’s still quite rare. So rare, in fact, that many people still don’t know what graffiti is. A few years ago, a teenager spray-painted a wall in Bien Hoa, and a man approached to ask, “Why are you painting like that? Do you work for an advertiser?” The young artist explained that he was painting for fun, because he loves it. The man was shocked, and said, “Are you crazy? You are just wasting money like that, without profit?” That teenager was Trane. This 17-yearold entrepreneur has been a graffiti writer for three years. During that time, Trane has connected with graffiti artists all over Vietnam, and with some international ones too. Even big names, like El Mac, the American muralist who made some of the outstanding pieces of wall art found at San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh) and Saigon Outcast (188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2). Practising graffiti is not quite like getting a colour rush on a smartphone with Candy Crush. You need the same amount of nozzlepressing/touch-screen tapping control, but a little more space. Trane and his colleagues practise mostly on the walls of a basketball

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court in their neighbourhood, with the approval of the owner. Since opening last year, Saigon Outcast is another space run by open-minded patrons that encourages the growth of creative expression on the enclosure’s walls. “Before Saigon Outcast,” Trane says, “artists from Saigon went to Bien Hoa to paint. We have a basketball court in Bien Hoa, with a very big wall. The owner is very supportive. Her son is a basketball player and he loves what we do, so she lets us paint there.” He sees the divisive art as a public service. “Before we came to paint,” he says, “the wall was very old and dirty, so we have given it more life.” The drive to paint well is what led Trane to seek out not only safe places to practise graffiti, but also to obtain good quality materials. Last year Trane opened NC Store, the first graffiti store in Vietnam.

The Hustle

Those English lessons Trane took after school are now proving very useful, as is the internet. Connecting with international artists, Trane learnt that the spray paint and the nozzles available in Vietnam did not offer the best control and coverage. At VND20,000 a can, you couldn’t complain. But why not aim high and get better quality?

Trane wanted the best tools to create graffiti. Seeing they weren’t for sale in Vietnam was a clear sign of a gap in the market, which he promptly took the initiative to fill. His parents supported him. “My parents are business people, so they let me do what I want and they support me a lot, although they didn’t when I was young,” says the 17-year-old. “They want me to train by myself, they want me to become more mature.” With his savings and some extra money that he borrowed from relatives, Trane invested in some quality American nozzles that visiting graffiti writers had told him about. They were affordable, reusable and could be adapted to the cheap local paint cans. He imported an order and once the local graffiti artists heard how good they were, they sold like hot cakes. He imported more, placing a bigger order that included marker pens, books and other items. They sold out quickly too.

Getting Up

After cutting his teeth, Trane was ready to take bigger risks. He opened a shop in the foyer of a friend’s house in Go Vap. Even if on first impression it doesn’t look like a flourishing business, it’s a groundbreaking achievement. NC Store is not a trendy shop in a prime location (at least not yet) — it’s

more like one set of shelves and a glass display case. You can’t see the shop from the road. There isn’t even a sign to help people notice it behind that motorbike repair stall. But the shop has products that can’t be bought elsewhere in the country, and it offers customers the opportunity of trying the products before buying. The parking areas surrounding the shop are covered in hundreds of layers of tags and squiggles made by customers testing the goods. Next to the rough tests, there are realistic portraits and wild-style, 3D signatures. These professional creations are an inspiration to the newcomers — which most of them are. “Most graffiti artists here are 16 or 17,” Trane says. “They want to study at an art university or be tattoo artists.” There are enough people interested in graffiti for the shop to be known by the Vietnamese graffiti community from word of mouth alone. Social networking has helped promote sales, but doing business in Vietnam is what keeps this store constantly renewing its stock and expanding its range. A country where over half the population is under 25 and where new trends are embraced obsessively is the place to be. “Graffiti in Vietnam is a new trend,” Trane says. “Some people, if they have an open mind, welcome graffiti. Some are old-school, and we have to explain.”

All City Like Phase 2

In his short career as sole ‘import administrator’, Trane had the foresight to pump the earnings back into his business. But the next order for the newly-opened shop required a much larger investment. Trane needed another loan, and help from people experienced with dealing with customs. Problems were faced and solved, and a few months ago Trane received a shipment of cans of quality spray paint that is so rich it can completely cover walls of any shade with only one coat, something the local spray paints can’t do. Despite costing over 10 times the price of the local brands, the imported cans are selling out faster than Trane anticipated, and, as before, he is getting returns on his investment. Trane’s future plans involve developing his own brand of graffiti materials. This is not a distant dream, he has already liaised with manufacturers in Europe to get quotes and samples and begin negotiations. At 17, Trane has grown his business with every order, and he has sealed deals with suppliers over three continents. What makes a good business? Though he’s new to the game, Trane has already learned this lesson. Give your customers what they want. NC Store is at 242 Nguyen Oanh, Go Vap, or online at facebook.com/ncstore

Graffiti: A Short History It’s been 10 years since Vietnam ‘discovered’ graffiti. Once a youngster in Hanoi found out that the images on some hip-hop videos and CD covers were called graffiti, interest in the art form started growing. If you’ve been in Ho Chi Minh City for more than a few months, you’ve already stopped noticing the KCBT or KCAT signs (from ‘khoan cat be tong’, concrete drilling and cutting) stencilled on walls around the city. If you’ve been here for longer, you may have noticed how those signs are now competing for space with names in bubble writing. Soon, it might be possible for these monochrome scribbles to become sophisticated wild-style works of art.

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y hi l l bl o rr

The French-built, American-restored Dalat Palace Hotel should be part of the nation’s folklore. But the real story behind it involves an American lawyer and the enigma that was Larry Hillblom, one-third owner of logistics company DHL. Words Derek Milroy, photos Alexandre Garel

n 1994, US lawyer Barry Israel arrived in Hanoi to start working with Vietnam’s Ministry of Trade. It was the beginning of a journey that was to bring him in contact with the legacy of Larry Hillblom, the owner of the Dalat Palace Hotel. Part owner of logistics giant, DHL, Hillblom fathered a number of children in Asia Pacific, but refused to acknowledge their existence up until his mysterious death in 1995. Perishing in a fatal plane crash on a flight from Pagan Island to Saipan in the South Pacific, the bodies of the pilot and of a fellow passenger were found. But Hillblom’s body was never recovered. “I was involved in the legal fight and our team broke up the will of Larry Hillblom,” recalls Israel. “When the estate was closed, my client and the foundation that was set up in the will took control of the Vietnam properties. My client owned 30 percent and the foundation owned 70 percent. I was asked to represent Larry’s oldest son because of my ties with Vietnam and my history with Larry, who I had known since 1982.”

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He adds: “Larry and I had been adversaries on a number of major deals in the Pacific region… Everyone connected to Larry knew about the kid, and they did things to cut him off. So we spent years fighting that. My client was from Palau, which is in the Pacific Islands, south of Guam. Two other children are from the Philippines, and one other kid is Vietnamese.”

The Will

Hillblom lived in Saipan in the South Pacific. There were eight children claiming descent and Israel and his legal team had to fight the foundation people to “keep them from stealing the money while figuring out how to prove that the kids were real”. Under US law, the family wasn’t required to provide DNA as proof. Yet Israel’s team discovered that the lawyers and the people from the foundation had gone in and cleaned out Hillblom’s house of fingerprints. The sinks had been scrubbed with muriatic acid and toothbrushes, combs, hairbrushes and clothes were found buried in the backyard,

making them useless for DNA testing. “Larry obviously didn’t instruct anyone to do this, but his people did, after he was dead,” continues Israel. “Under US law, if you are a manager of the foundation you are permitted to make a salary that is a percentage. So what Hillblom did in his will was to set the foundation up. He put his brothers in, and the guys who worked for them who then managed the foundation, which would provide them with a very good income.” This meant they had a vested interest in making sure that the whole legacy went to the foundation. Hillblom had already been in an airplane crash before the one that killed him. He lost an eye and his face was completely crushed. So, he went through all sorts of reconstructive surgery. “As a result of that, in 1982, he wrote a will,” says Israel. “His will set up the foundation — the money was to go to medical research. But, under US law, if you have children, you must provide for those children in the will, either saying that they get something, or they don’t get something.

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“[Hillblom] spent US$40 million restoring the Dalat Palace Hotel as well as the Dalat Palace Golf Course. Overall he spent US$94 million in Vietnam”

But Larry didn’t do that, and he wouldn’t do that. [Everyone] knew about that boy, in Palau. But Larry wouldn’t change his will.”

Finding Evidence

Born in 1943, Californian native Hillblom cofounded DHL which started off delivering shipping documents via air courier days before the ships arrived, so that the ships could be quickly unloaded. The company was later transformed into a general air courier, and Hillblom’s wealth expanded to several billion dollars. In the 1980s he moved to Saipan in the South Pacific, where he started several businesses and development projects in Hawaii, Vietnam and the Philippines. He spent US$40 million restoring the Dalat Palace Hotel as well as the Dalat Palace Golf Course. Overall he spent US$94 million in Vietnam, his portfolio including the properties in Dalat, the Novotel Phan Thiet (now Hotel Du Parc Phan Thiet), Ocean Dunes Golf Course in Phan Thiet and the Riverside Apartments in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2. The Dalat Palace Hotel featured French restaurants and Larry’s Bar, and opened in 1995. Hillblom is described in his biography by James Scurlock, King Larry: The Life and Ruins of a Billionaire Genius, as having bedded underage girls after moving to Saipan. This is also chronicled in the 2009 documentary, Shadow Billionaire. Women from several Asian and Pacific countries made claims that he had

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committed statutory rape on them and was father to their children. However, since Hillblom’s body was not recovered in the crash, there was no DNA that could be used to determine paternity. The investigators then had a masterstroke. They decided to check if the DNA of the children matched. Since the kids were located in different countries, if the children shared certain DNA markers, they would almost certainly have the same father. In the end, a settlement was reached under which Larry’s mother submitted to genetic testing. The tests confirmed that four of the eight claimants were Hillblom’s children. It was ultimately determined that the Vietnamese kid Lory Nguyen, two children from The Philippines and a child from Palua, Larry Hillbroom Jr. (his name was misspelled on the birth certificate) were fathered by Hillblom. In the final settlement, each of the children received about US$90 million (around US$60 million after taxes and lawyer fees), while the remaining US$240 million went to the Hillblom Foundation, which followed Hillblom’s wishes and donated funds to University of California for medical research. “He was the youngest of the owners at DHL, and he always thought that he’d outlive everybody,” says Israel. “So when he died, it was complete chaos.”

The Hotel

In 2000 one of Israel’s clients had an interest in Dalat Palace Hotel, and a majority of

shareholders asked him if he would consider giving up his law practice and taking over the company, at least for a short period. His job was to try to sell the company, but when he got his hands on it, it was in terrible trouble. Hotels were for sale all over the region because of the Asian Financial Crisis. There were no buyers. And the company nearly went bankrupt. Yet somehow he managed to keep the property afloat and in 2003, he got the chance to buy out the majority shareholders. “We had a hotel and golf course in the middle of Dalat and another in Phan Thiet, but they hadn’t been marketed at all so nobody knew about them,” says Israel. “So as soon as I got a positive cash flow, every bit of money that came in I spent on PR and marketing.” As part of his PR drive he brought in ‘Mr. Golf in Vietnam’, Jeff Puchalski, who gave him a crash course in the industry. In 2005, Dragon Capital bought a piece of the company. And in 2007, Indochina Capital made an offer for the rest, so Israel sold it. He and his wife Tam then bought a factory that produces high-end lacquer furniture, exporting it to 43 countries. Israel admits he put every penny into the Hillblom paternity lawsuits for four trying years. He was travelling all over the world, because there were properties everywhere. He risked both his financial security and his health on the case. He says: “My partner and I were working 20 hours a day, seven days a week. I remember, for years through the case, we were working on Christmas Day with just the two of us and a local counsel.” Eventually the courts stepped in and awarded a payout to all of the lawyers. Israel and his partner fared particularly well as they had saved the estate. A court awarding money to lawyers was unprecedented. “The judge was a really good guy, he was tough on everybody,” says Israel. “But the estate had the estate money to play with. So they had unlimited resources and we were just a couple of guys fighting. Both myself and my partner used all of our savings, everything [just to keep going]. My kid was in college, in private school, it was tough. But we were committed all the way.” Israel and his partner received a percentage of the money awarded to the child in Vietnam, plus a refund of their expenses. He joined the case in 1995 — Larry died in July 1995 — and the lawsuit was finally completed in October 2000. It was in the summer of 2000 when Israel was asked if he would come to Vietnam and take over the Dalat Palace Hotel. “That was the turning point of my life.”

The Latest Venture Sitting in a District 3 restaurant with his wife and business partner Tam, it is clear that Israel is glad to see the back of Hillblom and his offspring. The couple have been together for a decade and have been married five years. Despite Israel’s reputation as one of the toughest lawyers in America in his day, he insists Tam is the business brains of the family. After his involvement with the Dalat Palace Hotel, they started to look at more land in Dalat. Barry provided financing, and Tam started to buy — she now owns a lot of freehold land, large pieces in the city, with great locations. At the end of 2007, they started to develop a piece of land they thought was interesting. Built at a 45-degree angle on the side of a

mountain, it took them about four years to finish the infrastructure. Israel insisted on quality, so he manufactured strong foundations to make sure the buildings will hold up. Getting the property as they wanted created all sorts of difficulties. Tam handled all the negotiations for the land and the construction — the permit, licenses and contracts. By the time that was finished, the bottom retaining wall was 130 metres long and 16 metres high, which is the highest retaining wall to have been built in Vietnam. Everything was constructed in granite blocks; the retaining wall is made with approximately 1.6 million of them. But it all means the property is built in a way that will make it last. As for the architecture, they

wanted to maintain the French colonial style typical of other villas in Dalat. The La Vallee de Dalat is the only private, guarded, secure compound freehold in the city. “The complex is a second or third home destination,” says Israel. “The market for this complex is wealthy Vietnamese and possibly some foreigners from Southeast Asia. We built the houses for two families to share, or for a large family. The entire top floor of each house (the house is three storeys) has two side rooms. The ground floor has a guest bedroom, which looks out onto the valley. The basement has another guest bedroom, and even a cigar room.” Check out the project at valleedalat.com

June 2013 Word | 77

Looking for that sought-after niche? Here are some ideas to get you going, or not, as the case may be

ere at the Word office, we always have good ideas. Whether they involve bagel eateries or raingear for the smart, casual motorbiker, these enterprising halfthoughts pour from our mouths like the

Your Non-Mirror Image

This one starts with a magic trick: find a malleable, reflective surface and look into it. That’s your mirror image. Now take hold of either side of the surface and fold them towards each other, just as if you were closing a book. As you fold, your reflection will butterfly into a bunch of Photoshop-y effects. It’ll blur, it’ll smudge, but there is a golden point during this bend when your eyes and the sides of your mouth match up and your reflection reappears. Hold that. That’s the face that other people see when they look at you — your non-mirror image. Where outside of a photograph can you look at yourself in this way? Bathroom mirrors have been the same for at least as long as I’ve been looking into them, so perhaps it’s time for a change. As a consumer, it’d be nice to have the option. — Matt Bender

Recycling Ideas From Others

In Sweden they implemented a system for all lorries to register and be able to pick up multiple smaller cargoes on their return trip, minimising the amount of time running

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silvery tones of Sir Richard Branson. The following is a selection of these half-thoughts, offered up open-source to anyone out there who might want to make them a reality. Hold on, your purpose in life is forthcoming!

without loads. Routes are tracked with GPS and updated real-time. Users basically place an offer and truckers bid to take the extra cargo with them on their return trip. When you spot all the trucks running across town with open doors and empty containers, it doesn’t take much to realise that this country could benefit from a system like Sweden’s. — Mads Monsen

Kitesurf ing Hammock

Don’t you hate it when you want to take your family of five for a nice weekend to Mui Ne for some kitesurfing, but all the hotels are full? Or just too expensive? Those kitesurfing lessons aren’t free, you know! Then it’s time for you to say hello to the Hammock-surfer! Easy to fold and unfold, all you need is to find a nice spacious area of any conventional parking lot and you and your family can relax in comfort after a long highway ride. Then in the morning, just strap it on and take to the skies! It also can be wrapped sarong-style to give you the hottest look on the beaches of Vietnam. No more throwing away money on

overpriced resorts. Let your hobby work for you. Go ahead and order your Hammocksurfer today! — Harry Hodge

Impress to Success

Designer chairs especially moulded into your shape, which come with the perfectly angled table for your computer. The first process is to get you sized up for your chair, which would involve your body being made into an impression, a complete sculpture to determine your size for the artisans to design the appropriate size of the chair, which starts from the top of your head to the floor with footrests, armrests and most importantly, the best back support money can buy. A computer desk could be designed to combine with the chair to ensure there are no problems for your neck, upper back or lower back. It would save companies billions in lost days to staff with back ailments if they could be more forward thinking. Employees could become full-time owners of the chair and desk, if paid for by the company, after five years, which is a good

incentive to keep talented staff. Then they can take it with them wherever their careers may lead them, safe in the knowledge their posture and back problems may be over forever. — Derek Milroy [copyright@ milshiredesigns]

The Streets are Paved with Soot

This one isn’t gonna make money for anyone, although maybe it will if you do some public money stuff. But anyway, the buses in this city need to change. Back home in Philadelphia, city buses are all hybrids, with exhausts that run up the back end of the bus and puff away into the sky. Like Ho Chi Minh City, Philly also has a decent-size biking population — but bikers don’t often feel “the fear” when encountering a city bus. This fear is as much a product of the black smoke that pours from them like evil steam engines on their way to run over someone tied to the tracks as it is their nefarious driving habits. When I first came here, I heard an apocryphal tale that city bus drivers are allowed to kill

one person a year, without penalty. I didn’t believe it, but I almost did. Filling our streets with belching black clouds of exhaust smoke might be good for the facemask sellers, but it isn’t for the rest of us. Drivers stagger and hold their sleeves to their mouths as these primordial vehicles honk past, sometimes opening their doors to throw some litter down. And you know what? — toning them down might be good for our city’s environmental consciousness. Seeing the effects of this kind of on-the-ground reform might make people think about the effects of their own actions, like being careless about their own littering. And you know who would stand to make a killing then? That’s right, enterprising trash can makers. — Ed Weinberg

The fillings? Well, you need the full mixture. You need the Saigon suon, or barbecued pork with fish sauce. You need the standard banh mi fillings — pate, pork, cucumber, pickles, herbs and chilli. But then, of course, you also need the luxury end. The smoked salmon and cream cheese. The salt or corned beef with mustard. The product is one thing, but without the look and the name to match, you will never get too far. So, something like Banh Mi Bagel or Bui Vien Bagel may work. And then you need the service station. Sorry, Subway, but we like what you do — it would need to be similar with an on-site oven to match. But this bagel bakery will be a sliver of a place, only with bar-stool seating in the side of the room. All making it into a takeaway heaven, easily accessible, and reasonably priced, too. — Nick Ross

Say it with Bagels

It’s a simple idea. Open a bagel bakery and make it a 24-hour version. The location? The first one would need to be in the Bui Vien area, or if not, Dong Du. Although the rent there may be too high.

June 2013 Word | 79

travel

Kerala

Located south of Goa in the far southwest of India, Kerala is known locally as ‘God’s Own Country’ and with good reason. From the cuisine through to the natural beauty, there is something a little special about this province that sets it apart from the rest of India. Words and photos by Jennifer Baxter

A Place Apart Kerala is India and yet it’s not. For one, the literacy rate here is 100 percent — a rarity in this vast country. It’s also one of only two states in the subcontinent to have a non-dissent crushing Communist government — a constant since 1957. Other things set it apart as well. As a sport, cricket here is secondary to a love of football and volleyball. Unlike the rest of India where cows are revered, here beef is widely eaten despite a Hindu majority citizenship. And of course, there are the beaches. As one Kerala local says, “They’re far more beautiful than in Goa.”

magine trekking through lush, green tea plantations, escaping the noisy chaos of Indian cities and ending the day with a two-hour Ayurvedic oil massage. Imagine spending days lounging in a traditional house boat, a kettuvallum, along canals and sprawling backwaters while soaking up the aromas and spices of flavourful cooking. This is what you will find in Kerala, one of India’s most naturally beautiful states. Located on a narrow strip of coastal land that lies between the slopes of the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea, Kerala has high altitude blue mountains and unique backwaters and lagoons. It is also the home of traditional Ayurveda, with spas and treatment centres in most areas, as well

as ecotourism initiatives and a range of accommodation to choose from. Tourism is more experiential with backpacking, trekking and camping options easily available. Known as ‘God’s Own Country’, a holiday in Kerala needs to be savoured as does the cuisine. A place that you can appreciate for its natural beauty, it is also somewhere to surrender yourself to the taxing pastime of rejuvenation.

The Cuisine Wandering around Cochin, the largest city in Kerala and now known as Kochi, is a great way to get an introduction to traditional Kerala cuisine. The state is known for its abundance of spices and tea plantations,

and the dishes in this two-million-strong metropolis are always prepared with fresh local spices like cardamom, clove, ginger, curry leaves, cinnamon, chilli peppers, coriander and turmeric. Coconuts are a staple in Kerala cooking as is rice and tapioca. Breakfast dishes include puttu (made of rice powder and grated coconut, steamed in a metal or bamboo holder), idli (fluffy rice pancakes) and dosa (a fermented crepe made from rice batter and lentils) usually served with a coconut chutney. Unique and interesting dishes to try are the Kerala fish curry and vegetable manga mappas, which is a medley of fresh vegetables and mango simmered in spices and coconut milk to

“You can stay in an area so remote and quiet that you simply listen to the layers of sounds from the birds, insects and animals such as wild boars, whose footprints you will inevitably come across if you’re not lucky enough to see them up close” create a thick gravy. The city of Cochin, nicknamed ‘the Queen of the Arabian Sea’, has small, humble restaurants that offer some of the best of Kerala cooking. An established favourite is Dal Roti (Church Road, Fort Cochin). They serve hot spicy masala chai, and are known for their katti rolls, a kebab filling wrapped in paratha (flaky dough pancake) spiced to perfection depending on your tastes. Aruvi Nature Restaurant (Chittor Road in Erankulam) uses no dairy and the spice in the cuisine is typically very mild. They serve only vegetarian food prepared and cooked in an Ayurvedic way. In basic Ayurvedic cooking, how the food is prepared and the food combinations themselves play an important role in their effect on the digestive functions of the body as well as on the mind. At Aruvi’s the servers don’t speak English and wear traditional saris, serving food from large metal cans filled with dal (a thick stew of lentils) and a variety of vegetable dishes you may never learn the name of, but will remember for the rest of your time in India. The food is wholesome, mild and delicious. For more

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western café food with some traditional Indian dishes, the Kashi Art Cafe on Burgher Street and the Tea Pot Café on Peter Celli Street offer a laid back atmosphere with a good selection of local teas.

Munnar Hill Station A four-hour drive from Cochin, past the Cheeyappara and Valara Waterfalls, you’ll reach the misty hill station of Munnar. A popular destination for Indian tourists from the nearby states of Andre Pradesh and Tamil Nadu, it’s an easy escape from the summer heat and has great natural beauty and diverse ecology. It makes sense to stay for at least two nights to fully unwind and relax into the atmosphere of the Hill Station. The beautiful Blue Mountains have the country’s highest tea plantations. You can stay in an area so remote and quiet that you simply listen to the layers of sounds from the birds, insects and animals such as wild boars, whose footprints you will inevitably come across if you’re not lucky enough to see them up close. All along Cross Mountain, white crosses have been planted on the side of the mountain by religious pilgrims,

who make annual visits to the site. At the top is a 360-degree view of carpets of lush, green tea plantations surrounded by cool, thick fog. The serenity and peacefulness of the sweeping view of tea and spices makes you feel as if you’ve escaped from Indian society altogether. A relaxing stay outside of the town of Munnar is Kaivalyam Retreat, Moolakada (kaivalyamretreat.com). It is in the middle of a large spice plantation with panoramic views — the owners are warm and welcoming.

Kerala Ayurveda Everywhere you go in this state you stumble across massage centres — it seems that everybody is a mystic masseur in ‘God’s Own Country’. Kerala has a range of highend retreats where you can book stays for as long as one month with treatments designed especially for you. You can also test your luck and get a warm oil Abhyanga massage for two hours at somewhere a bit darker and much more humble. One of the top centres in Kerala is Chingoli Ayurveda Hospital & Research Centre in Alappuzha District. They offer both drop-in treatments and a fully

Information

customised programme. Ayurveda is one of the oldest medical systems in practice today. It’s based on three main functional patterns, or doshas, that work in nature and in our bodies. These doshas relate to the five elements — fire, air, space, earth and water. It differs from other forms of massage as it uses warm medicated oil and specific strokes relevant to your body’s constitution and imbalances to bring a rebalance to your energy. Abhyanga massage uses warm sesame oil mixed with herbs. The Shirodara uses warm coconut oil and herbs and is gently dripped on the forehead for about 45 minutes to relax your mind and open your third eye.

God’s Own Houseboat: The Backwaters The Kerala backwaters are a maze of lagoons criss-crossed with rivers, shallow pools and canals, all separated from the sea by a narrow strip of sand banks. In many places, the backwaters connect to form large lakes. Renting a kettuvallum, a traditional houseboat, is where the Kerala holiday really takes on a life of its own. Everything slows

down as you hear the symphony of sounds that play the Kerala backwaters. The cool breeze rustling through the trees, the crows chatting among the wind-swept branches, birds chirping in unison and the sound of your personal chef cracking open a chilled beer as you sit quietly enjoying the serenity of the backwaters. A kettuvallum can be rented for a couple of hours or overnight. The overnight rental includes a personal chef and a small staff to open your drinks and make sure you’re comfortable. It is a pure escape from the haggling and honking India is so well known for. These are a few experiences that make Kerala distinctly different from the rest of India. It’s the kind of place where itineraries need to be thrown aside, and checklists binned. You can spend weeks or even months in this province, meandering around on an old rickety bicycle, lounging on a houseboat or simply lingering in a place you love for a few extra days. Jen Baxter also writes a blog called ‘In the Wonder’ about travel and transformation. It can be found at thewanderingjen.com

For information and resources for travel plans and houseboats go to the following links:

T he T ravel P lanners

keralatourpackages.com

Y atrik T ours & T ravel yatrik.com yatrik@yatrik.com

K erala T ourism

keralatourism.org

F lights

Air Asia runs direct daily flights from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur to Cochin.

June 2013 Word | 83

Pin photo by crossed-flag-pins.com

Harumitsu Hida, Consul General of Japan

The Japanese Special

Marriage of Convenience Of all the countries celebrating four decades of diplomatic ties with Vietnam this year, Japan may be the most significant. Derek Milroy probes further into the reasons why Japan is so keen to have Vietnam as a staunch ally and vice versa

ith tensions in Northeast Asia rising, Japanese companies are looking south as they ponder their next overseas move — and many are convinced that Vietnam is their number one choice. Vietnam is now Japan’s top ally in Asia. If that wasn’t evident before, Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe’s trip to Vietnam in February — his first trip abroad after taking office — confirmed it. Japan is Vietnam’s third largest business partner with two-way trade turnover reaching nearly US$25 billion (VND525 trillion) in 2012. By the end of last year, the country ranked first among countries and territories investing in Vietnam, with over 1,800 projects with a total registered capital of US$29 billion (VND609 trillion). With these figures it is evident that bilateral relations are important for both nations, bringing about a marriage of

convenience. Vietnam needs Japanese investment and Japan needs Vietnam as a base for its vast capital resources. Domestically, Japan still hasn’t fully recovered from the disasters of March 2011, and economic conditions are still weak. Japan is attracted to Vietnam’s cheap labour and the fact that — despite the economic downtown — growth in Vietnam is still measured at about 5.5 percent yearly. It is a happy marriage. The natural disasters and nuclear fallout that crippled Japan also brought both nations together with many close ties formed during this time. Vietnamese firms and citizens alike offered help to their Asian neighbour during this most testing of periods.

A Diplomatic View We tracked down Harumitsu Hida, Consul General of Japan, to ask him how important

Disaster Prevention and Management F ilm S creenings about the G reat E ast J apan E arthquake , S eptember

An event to introduce reconstruction achievements after the Great East Japan Earthquake and to express Japanese people’s gratitude for the support given by the Vietnamese people. Details to be confirmed.

D isaster M anagement S eminar , S eptember To introduce Japan’s disaster management technology and knowhow in preparation for any future natural disasters in Ho Chi Minh City. Details to be confirmed.

this year’s celebrations marking JapanVietnam diplomatic relations are in light of this increased closeness. He says that since the establishment of diplomatic relations in 1973, the countries have worked together to consistently strengthen ties and steadily deepen their friendship. In February, at the beginning of this commemorative 12 months named ‘JapanVietnam Friendship Year’, Vietnam was graced by the visit of Prime Minister Abe. “I believe that it has impressed on the people of both countries how important and amicable the relationship between Japan and Vietnam was [and is],” says Hida. “At the meeting [of the two prime ministers], both sides agreed to further strengthen people-to-people exchanges, taking the opportunity of the Japan-Vietnam Friendship Year.” The consul general explains that in terms of people-to-people exchanges, “friendship” has been nurtured in a natural way, by bringing intimacy to a higher level than merely that of one experienced between one Asian nation and another. Instead the countries have developed the respect and trust vital for a long-term and fruitful relationship. “I deem it my responsibility as well as my wish to pass this friendship between Japan and Vietnam onto the next generation,” he says. Hida insists it is fated for 2013 to be the friendship year, which Japan has spent many years preparing for, at a time when relations between both nations could be not be any better or more productive.

His office will offer opportunities in a wide range of fields to promote work exchanges and help Vietnamese people learn more about Japan. Events, which were held or will be held in and around Ho Chi Minh City include food, sports and music events, cultural and art projects. He adds: “I will continue to make efforts to deepen the trusting relationship among peoples of the two countries and encourage them to build up a ‘best friend’ relationship on the occasion of Japan-Vietnam Friendship Year.”

The Saigon Top Ten

Thanks to our friends at the Japaneselanguage magazine, Sketch, we have come up with a list of what we believe to be the top 10 Japanese restaurants in town. With so much competition in this city, and well over 200 eateries proclaiming to sell dishes with some sort of Japanese influence, Saigon is a gold mine for anyone who enjoys eating cuisine from the Land of the Rising Sun. In fact, so good is our experience of the cuisine in this country, that when various members of our team have tried sushi, sashimi, ramen and all sorts of other Japanese fare in Europe or North America, they've come away disappointed. So, here goes. Time to get the saliva running and the juices flowing.

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S yunkato

17 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 syunkato.com Syunkato opened just five months ago but has already made its mark in the congested Japanese market. It focuses on using quality Vietnamese ingredients for its diners with a profitable group of regulars in the bag already. The eatery has a real authentic feel and is in a beautifully-designed spot.

Y amaneko

13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 yamaneko-vn.com Yamaneko is the premier Okinawan restaurant in town. It is a fixture on Japanese-dominated Le Thanh Ton and is nestled down a little alley, with a bar-feel downstairs and a nice eating space upstairs. Owner Tabo is in his second spell in Ho Chi Minh City and knows the local market and how to please. Besides Okinawan cuisine, it sells a rarely found sumo hotpot served in traditional style. The main flavour of the chanko hot pot is crab-flavoured miso sauce with shrimp, fish, crab, oysters, chicken, tofu and mushrooms. Well worth your cash.

Sports Events F riendship

Cultural Events

J apan -V ietnam F ootball M atch , H aiku C ontest , J un . 1 N ovember

J-League stars Kawasaki Frontale will face V-League side Becamex Binh Duong FC as part of an event that includes the Japanese summer festival Natsumatsuri at Go Dau Stadium (Thu Dau Mot City, Binh Duong Province)

The event will be co-organized by Tuoi Tre, with categories split into Japanese Haiku and Vietnamese Haiku. Details to be confirmed.

K atazome E xhibition by M ika T oba , N ov . 23 to D ec . 15

K ids F ootball S chool , Katazome is a traditional Japanese dyeing method J un . 17 and Mika Toba is a top katazome artist. She has been

Presented by Kawasaki Frontale, 60 invited primary school children from Japan and Vietnam are given a chance to have football lessons from professional players of the Japanese football club at Dong Nai Indoor Stadium.

Music Events P iano R ecital

N obuyuki T sujii , J un . 21

One of the most famous pianists worldwide, Tsujii was a joint Gold Medal winner at the 2009 Van Cliburn International Piano Competition, despite being blind since birth. He performs at Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory Museum (112 Nguyen Du, Q1).

J azz C oncert

U nit A sia , J ul . 14

Unit Asia consists of three Japanese members, one Thai and one Malaysian, all distinguished musicians who have developed a reputation in Japan and Asia-wide. At Ben Thanh Theatre (6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1).

visiting Vietnam annually and creating katazome works with Vietnamese scenery as a motif since her first visit in 1994. From 2003 to 2004, the exhibition Katazome and Vietnamese Scenery: Ten Years’ Reminiscence was held in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City in commemoration of the 30th Anniversary of Japan-Vietnam diplomatic relations. This time she is featured at the Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts University (Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh).

Food Events J apan D ay , J un . 20

Professional Japanese chefs will demonstrate how to cook beautiful and traditional Japanese food. Apart from that, there is also an introduction to sado tea ceremonies, furoshiki, a karaoke contest, and traditional music at the Sheraton Hotel (88 Dong Khoi, Q1).

Its sushi, tempura and sashimi and of course hotpots are fresh, good quality and a hit with customers. The downtown spot serves until 1am and is a great choice to soak up your excess before heading home.

S ushi D ining A oi

Ground Floor, Saigon Pavilion, 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 sushidiningaoi.com Don’t be surprised by the lack of English speakers at Aoi — just enjoy the authentic Japanese sushi experience. Lunch is recommended due to the presence of beautiful sushi and sashimi favourites and very reasonable prices. There is a VND200,000 set menu to die for prepared by Head Chef Hoshino Masaaki and morequality-than-novelty in Vietnamese sushi chef Truong Hung. This is sushi as it would have been prepared 50 years ago.

T okyo T own

188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 tokyotown.vn

D ragon H otpot

122-124 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 dragonhotpot.vn The only problem with heading for the popular lunch spot Dragon Hotpot is in finding a seat, due its reasonable prices and food quality.

If you have some business clients or a group of friends arriving in town and you fancy some top food and fun, Tokyo Town is the perfect place. Winsome young ladies will show you Japanese hospitality while you grab a few beers and order as much food as you can muster in the food court-y location. It is one of those bustling places where you cannot fail to have some fun and let loose, even if it’s just with your belt holes.

June 2013 Word | 87

Not Just Sushi There are over 200 Japanese restaurants in Saigon —which begs the question, how do you stay ahead of the competition? Derek Milroy met four of the city’s top restaurateurs to find out what makes them different as they try to survive. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

The Saigon Top Ten Continued...

Dragon Group Katsuya Hoshi of the Dragon Group says the Japanese market is getting him down so much he is opening a noodle shop to try and cut his losses. He used to focus exclusively on Japanese clientele, but they have too much choice now. He didn’t advertise in the English language publications before, but now he has to target western and Vietnamese customers to survive. His latest initiative is going after the westerners who live in Thao Dien in District 2. Hoshi explains the problem: Japanese food is more expensive in Ho Chi Minh City than back in Japan, and there are only 10,000 Japanese in the city and hundreds of restaurants to choose from. “We don’t have to advertise the set lunch, to be honest, as it does very well and we are always really busy at lunchtime,” he says. “From noon to 1.30pm we are busy, but at night we are so quiet. My friends from Japan who also own restaurants say the same.”

Ebisu is said to have the best Udon noodles in the city, but less is heard about this authenticfeeling, woodworked Japanese eatery’s other quality offerings, such as the salads. The signature Udon noodle soups are handmade on the premises so prepare to wait for your order — but they are a must-try for a first-time visitor, as is the chicken karaage. It is also in a great location near the centre of town. One tip, Ebisu offers a monthly recommendation menu, which you should at least think about.

F uji

Hotel Nikko Saigon, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

E bisu

35 Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1

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Many places claim they are authentic Japanese but don’t walk the walk, and then there is Fuji. It does have the advantage in being located inside the Japanese-managed Hotel Nikko Saigon, but this is truly the

He adds: “Our sushi is specially selected, our tempura and sashimi are fresh, good quality and popular with customers. We also have a Japanese bar menu for alcoholic drinks. We open until 1am, so customers can come here after a few drinks to eat some nice food.” Tokyo native Hoshi has been overseas for 30 years and has now been in Saigon for 10. He left Japan when he was 19. 10 years ago there was no competition and expenses were low, but now he insists the competition is high, expenses are high and he feels like a slave to his landlord. He has lived and worked in Malaysia, Holland, Montenegro, Serbia, Croatia, Australia, Indonesia, Hawaii and now in Vietnam. Dragon Hotpot is at 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, Q1; Dragon Steakhouse is at 138 Ton That Dam, Q1; Dragon Ramen is at 29 Dong Du, Q1

Syunkato Yuji Furusawa manages one of the newest — and, according to a number of Japanese in the know — one of the best eateries in town. He opened Syunkato’s authentic Japanese eatery five months ago and

crème-de-la-crème. Only the best ingredients from selected regions are used, such as fresh seafood and vegetables flown in direct from Japan, and vegetables from Dalat. With a relaxed environment, attractive waitresses sporting beautiful kimonos, private dining rooms accommodating four to 10 people, a sushi bar, a teppanyaki bar, a lounge and a main dining area. Just go.

N ippon I zakaya C uu L ong

63 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh When people first see that Nippon Izakaya Cuu Long is in Binh Thanh they switch off, but it is only a bit out of the way, right on the edge of District 1. Its unique selling point is its two chicken-and-egg bowls, which are a must. One is called oyakodon while the other is the torisoboro ontama don. Of course the word

Yamaneko Takahiko Ichikawa (aka Tabo) has been in the game a long time, and set up Yamaneko during his second spell in Ho Chi Minh City.

already has a team of regulars who are attracted by the fact that the design is so effective, diners actually believe they are in Tokyo when they walk through the door. When we arrived his staff were on break, so he dusted down his whites and prepared some teasers for us, which included hata fish usuzukuri (sashimi), gomoku takikomi gohan (five different vegetables and rice), nukazuke and miso soup. Syunkato’s interior was designed by interior designers Dream Comes Asia, and it is pretty impressive with a cosy ground-floor level. Upstairs there are small booths for the Japanese to feel at home, but they may be in for a pleasant surprise — as they are being fed Vietnamese fish and vegetables. Yet everything here is carefully sourced. The key is service, and it is dutifully performed in the same manner and style as back home. Furusawa admits he doesn’t worry about the competition — his business is booming. He misses his wife and family but says he is too busy to go home and see them. Syunkato is located at 17 Ngo Van Nam, Q1

izakaya means drinking establishment, so go and have a bite and a tipple.

Born in Mount Fuji, he came to Saigon in 1995 and owned a restaurant for three years, but didn’t like the Vietnamese lifestyle, so he moved to The Philippines then back to Japan. He then lived in Okinawa for almost 10 years and this influenced his food thoughts. He returned to Ho Chi Minh City six years ago, and now focuses on Okinawan food — different from the cuisine widely available here. He has a restaurant in Bien Hoa that has no real competition and makes a lot of money — and he is thankful for that as he finds it tough, like many in the trade, to make cash in Ho Chi Minh City at the moment. He is set to open two more restaurants in August — one in Long An, one in Long Thanh. He explains that Okinawan food is a little different to standard Japanese fare but is very similar to Vietnamese food. It is like a mixture of Japanese and Vietnamese food, which appeals to local people and westerners alike. Yamaneko is at 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

Sushi Dining Aoi 18 months ago Japanese real estate

soup base and is savoured with extremely thin noodles, chashu, spring onions and black fungus. The noodles are very thin so that they can be cooked and served quickly to busy salarymen. And if you are visiting the restaurant, you are kinda obliged to try it. Don’t be shy — you might even enjoy it, as most do.

company SK Homes owner Nagata Takeshi decided to delve into the food market when he opened Sushi Dining Aoi, which is an Edo (old Tokyo) style sushi restaurant in District 3. Aoi’s major selling point is the fact that they use Vietnamese fish to make their sushi dishes. Not only that, they also have a Vietnamese chef preparing Japanese food, which is a bit of a novelty — some come to Aoi just to see Truong Hung in action. Hung is being trained by head chef Hoshino Masaaki, who jointly runs the operation with manager Usui Ayu, as they bid to help Hung become the best Vietnamese sushi chef in Saigon. Despite the plush surroundings as part of the Saigon Pavilion apartment block, the prices especially on the lunch menu are very reasonable and delicious to boot. The sushi here is among the best in town. Sushi Dining Aoi is based on the ground floor of Saigon Pavilion, 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3

get what you pay for. Top eats are tempura moriawase, which is basically seafood and vegetables, or sushi-wise go for cal sake tataki maki, sencha gohan unagi maki and dragon avocado maki. For dessert opt for chawan mushi, egg custard with seeds of ginko.

K issho

14 Nguyen Hue, Q1 kissho.wmcvietnam.com

R amen B ar S uzuki

8/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 facebook.com/ramenbarsuzukiHCMC Ramen Bar Suzuki does what it says on the tin. Tonkotsu ramen was first introduced in Hakata (Fukuoka) in the 1940s. It has a white

The Rolls Royce of Japanese spots in town — when you walk into the stunning restaurant, see Hong Kong-inspired décor and learn that the place has three different types of sake, you will realise that you are in a top-notch establishment. When you see the bill, usually in the VND1 to 1.5 million neighbourhood for dinner for two, you’ll definitely realise it. But you

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wellness

The Treatment Tasked with visiting some of the top spas, massage and skincare centres in town, Harvey Morrison and Derek Milroy headed off to get pampered, prodded, groomed and pruned. Here are the results.

he health and beauty trade in Ho Chi Minh City is booming. But with so many options available, and with so many of the wellness industry contenders promising miracles, where should you spend your hard-earned money? And more important, what treatments are right for you? So we decided to try seven different treatments from

seven different types of wellness centres. From typical foot massage, through to manicures, pedicures, luxury spas, wrinkle treatment, facials and shiatsu, we got the full range of treatments available in this city, and each with their own unique happy ending. Well, not quite. But we certainly felt the layers of stress peel away. Here’s the lowdown.

Dep Mai W here : 15B/56 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 W hat : Wrinkle treatment P rice : VND970,000 / 300 shots

ne of the establishment spas in town, Dep Mai is popular with Japanese expats and tourists alike, offering anything from facial touch ups to permanent hair removal. Having had my chest and back waxed a few times, I thought I would go for the unchartered territory of wrinkle treatment. Everyone dreams of being young again and now I’ve turned 40, I thought I would try to look my best. So, I duly warned my wife that her husband would be coming home 10 years younger. I am an optimist. Upon entering I was sat down with some green tea — the one recurring theme everywhere we went — to await my treatment as I filled in my form. Then as I lay back on the treatment table I saw the gadget that would perform the wrinkle removal. Looking a bit like the medical kit Will

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Smith’s character in the movie In Search of Happiness was constantly carrying around, as I ended my treatment, I realised that it was anything but. This is state-of-the-art. Some freezing cold gel was combed on my forehead and the sides of both my eyes where the crow’s nests are located. Then the little gentle prodding on those areas — 300 shots in total — and I was done. The crow’s nests were gone, but the catch was I had to come back a few times more for the treatment to really take effect, a course that would cost VND1 million a pop. Worth every penny, though, if your goal is to look young and you have the cash. A shout must go out to training manager Bich who was really helpful, explaining every step of the procedure which took about 20 minutes. Did I lose a decade though? Well my wife will be the judge of that. — Derek Milroy

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Rosa Blanca W here : 23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 W hat : Lymph Facial Price: VND1.65 million / 90 minutes. Plus an extra VND270,000 for a 10-minute lymph facial

’m set up for a lymph facial at Rosa Blanca and I am ushered in to a beautiful shophouse. Warm wood wrapped in white fabric snakes up the stair bannisters and through the stairwell, all coupled with fine Japanese design and the most soothing music yet. Abstract, textured and with lots of space, when your eyes are buried beneath a warm cloth or covered with special creams your thoughts wander and your mind is soothed. Miyuki, the owner, was a gracious hostess and even helped with the photography. She has been in the business

12 years and has translated her refined sensibility into a high quality spa with the latest technology and finest skin care products. She apologises to me — she can only do a facial, neck and shoulder massage for men as the permits for the full body treatments she offers women are difficult to obtain for men in the city. However, the facial with the strong neck and shoulder massage with a focus on lymph node drainage and flow lasts for an hour and a half and leaves me looking younger (I hope). I certainly feel great. — Harvey Morrison

Sian Skincare Laser Clinic W here : Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 W hat : Botox and Facial P rice : Based on consultation and the individual treatment

volunteered for Botox. Not an assignment I relished, but Sian Clinic is different. It is neither a spa nor a therapeutic massage joint, I was emphatically advised. It’s an upscale beauty clinic rivaling facilities found in Singapore and Thailand, and a professional dermatology consultation is the first requirement. So, I thought, maybe I can escape with a better solution for my aging skin, one that does not require drastic measures. On an international scale, Sian is an affordable clinic that offers skincare treatments such as non-invasive face lifting, Thermage treatments, line and wrinkle removal with Botox, lifting with fillers and special facials. Laser therapy, tattoo and mole removal are also offered with professional oversight and supervision. So I meet with Doctor Si for a consultation first. “Make me look 50 years

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younger, Doc,” I ask and after one look he says, “Botox, filler, thermage — the works!” But he carefully puts on surgical gloves and pinches the skin near my eye and asks how old I am. He then tells me none of their treatments can help and I am massively relieved. It appears that after 60 years our collagen cannot respond to stimulation, and this is the basis for non-surgical facelifts. He suggested a special facial with new exotic French creams which would be relaxing and help, but it wouldn’t work wonders. The honest appraisal was refreshing and professional, and I enjoyed the facial, which used warm humidified air, various mechanical polishers and suction, as well as experienced fingers that soothed, cleaned and relaxed. When I offered a tip it was respectfully declined with a ‘thank you but we don’t accept tips here’. A refreshing change! — Harvey Morrison

Huong Nail Spa W here : 20 Phan Boi Chau, Q1 W hat : Manicure, Pedicure and Leg Massage Price: VND65,000 for a manicure or pedicure. The deluxe version rises to VND111,000

now know why the nail spas are so popular with women. Like a candy store for nails with peppermint colours and technicians in red, rows of coloured polish line the shelves and the female customers here are certainly in their element. However, like most such places in this city, Huong Nail is unisex and caters for men. I certainly wasn’t entering anti-male territory. Any concerns I may have had were quickly allayed by the English-speaking owner, Ms. Nghi, who gave me a warm welcome. Located just across from Ben Thanh Market, her nail spa is one of three she already has in Ho Chi Minh City. Clean and upscale with imported vibrating chairs that looked more space-age dental accessories, the seating is connected

to water hoses sporting trays, basins and drying lights. My treatment was unhurried and careful as two girls worked on both my hands and feet, leaving my cuticles trimmed and sanded, my finger and toenails cut and polished, and my feet buffed — a military shoe polish leaving the skin as smooth as a baby’s bottom. A great leg massage topped it off but I declined the bright magenta colour polish Nghi was sporting as the latest colour of choice. It looked great on her but for me, well maybe not. Nghi keeps her prices reasonable and attracts a large number of tourists. The spa was originally a family business and Nghi’s father is manicure magnate, Nguyen Minh Tuan, chairman of Kem Nghia. The technician’s tools here are among the best. — Harvey Morrison

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Mui Mui Spa

n my pre-treatment ignorance, shiatsu sounded more like a sumo-wrestling champion to me than a form of massage. But I was led to believe it was a highly regarded form of massage, and after my treatment I have to agree. The traditional Japanese practice was certainly in the ‘no pain, no gain’ category. Shiatsu is Japanese for ‘finger massage’ and is an alternative treatment using the finger and palm technique. Aimed at reducing stress and anxiety, it has been practiced for 70-odd years, and is apparently also performed on horses. The fingers did the damage and although I did ask for the strong-arm treatment, it was sore. There was certainly no chance of falling asleep during this particular therapy. The owner, Trang, recently expanded her premises and a few doors down the street is Mui Mui 2 — where I received my punishment. It was a tough assignment and although I really felt the benefits afterwards, it was like taking a 90-minute-long beating. Still as I sampled my post-massage green tea, I was so relaxed I could have fallen into a deep sleep there and then. The only problem was the motorbike journey home. I was so caught up in my Zen-like state, that I had to stop my bike a few times. The traffic just refused to appreciated my new-found chill. — De rek Milroy

W here : 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 W hat : Shiatsu Massage P rice : VND460,000 / 90 minutes

Xuan Spa W here : Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 W hat : Abhyanga Therapy P rice : VND1.89 million / 60 minutes

he Park Hyatt is a pretty impressive property in its own right and still remains top of the pecking order in the Saigon five-star stakes. Unsurprisingly, its in-house wellness centre, Xuan Spa, follows suit and really hits the luxury end of the treatment scale. Even the staff fit the image — dressed in white, together with the beiges and light colours of the décor, there is an otherworldly effervescence to this place, all giving you a sense of walking into something equivalent to heaven, or at least the media’s depiction of it. The larger-than-most-people’sapartments treatment room also adds to the excess, while the Abhyanga treatment had me out for the count. Soothing and more than worth the topend fee, Abhyanga Therapy is an Indian oilbased treatment which uses a range of oils to help eliminate friction and disperse heat evenly throughout the body. If adopted as a daily practice, this massage technique can

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help rejuvenate the body. It also eliminates toxins from the body and if performed correctly is perfect for anyone trying to de-stress. A real soother, it can help cure insomnia. By the end of my 60 minutes of luxury mixed with pleasure, I was wiped out. And like my shiatsu massage, it took me time to return to the land of the living. Unfortunately, on leaving the spa I had to enter the world of Saigon traffic, bringing my chill time to an abrupt finale. — Derek Milroy

Quynh Nhu Foot Massage W here : 135 Ham Nghi, Q1 W hat : Foot Massage P rice : VND350,000 (in a private room) / 90 minutes

must be one of the few foreigners living in this city who has yet to have a foot massage. Yet having been told that Quynh Nhu was one of the best of its ilk in town, I was looking forward to a journey into the unknown. My first surprise was the décor — certainly more upmarket than I had expected for a joint pandering to the foot massage circuit. Fortunately the surroundings fit the treatment — both were top-notch. Having changed into our little pyjama outfits, myself and my colleague settled in to let the girls do their stuff. Quickly we were put through the ringer as were twisted left and right and into all shapes asunder. I have had my neck cracked on many an occasion, though on this occasion I almost had my head taken clean off. Having already been jerked to the left, I shut my eyes and prayed. The right-hand jerk arrived and I survived. Despite their small physiques, the girls who work in the city spas have the strength of giants. So attuned are they to the world of the massage that they are stronger than most men — they can literally lift you with their legs and stretch you all over the place. I only

had my feet massaged for about 10 minutes of the 90, all making me think they should change the name to body twisting. Yet it was a great, relaxing, if not occasionally painful treatment. And going into the VIP section was definitely worth the extra cost compared to the cheaper, public area. — Derek Milroy

aving had many foot massages in Vietnam and all over Asia, I was pleasantly surprised at the total treatment offered at this upscale foot spa. No wall charts with big feet and multiple segments like beef cuts at the supermarket. Here the foot is regarded as part of the body and the treatment was integrated and professional. The owner has 10 years experience and her staff is well-trained. The price was just above the average for this city, but for almost two hours of therapeutic treatment it turned out to be a steal. The place is clean, the chairs are comfortable recliners, and when I walked out I felt great. I will go back, but I just hope they can change the elevator music. — Harvey Morrison

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Leisure

Supersize Me Forget eating McDonald’s three meals a day for a month. Seamus Butler agreed to do the opposite and dosed up on a diet of Ben Style food for weightlifters and two weeks’ worth of daily workouts at the Sofitel Gym. Here’s what happened. Photos by Francis Xavier

verything’s bigger in America. But we aren’t in America, and I’m not even American. So when Word asked me to spend two weeks changing my body for the good of humankind, I emphatically said, “Sure.” In a small third-floor office, down a narrow sidestreet alley, a circle of writers and photographers clutched annotated photocopies of the month’s upcoming stories. As my eyes scanned up and down the page, quickly bypassing blue ink scribbled across the already nailed-down articles, I stopped at two capitalised words — ‘Ben Style.’ Raising one eyebrow and clearing my throat, my journey started with the simplest of questions, “What’s Ben Style?” For the unfamiliar, Ben Style is a menu of no-frills health conscious muscle-bursting grub delivered for a premium only over the network of food delivery

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websites available in Saigon. The brainchild of bodybuilder and personal trainer Ben Dell, his brand of nourishing meals has garnered quite a following in this city. Over two weeks I was to endure a stringent diet of Ben Style fare and a rigorous exercise regime to slim-down and bulk up with sit-ups and weight heaving. Walking out through the gated entrance of the Word office, I contemplated the task assigned to me. I had not visited a gym in months, and was never an avid patron of any such facility in my life. I had never had the desire or motivation to increase muscle or gain a beach-worthy physique. I always had a confident sense of what I looked like, and when it came to body modification, I always ran in circles that preferred the ink-on-skin or metalthrough-flesh route. What did I really have to offer this experiment? Moreover, could I really commit

to the endeavour as I had no will to support such devotion in the past? Shaking my head and wiping the Saigon heat from my forehead, I drove away on my motorbike wondering, ‘What have I gotten myself into?’ Later, tapping my skinny, red, correction pen on my cold glass desk, a blank page of lined paper lay in front of me. I wrote in the top-left margin, ‘May 23rd, Deadline.’

The Experiment Begins Like all good experiments, there needs to be a set of criteria to assess observations. After much correspondence with my editor, I settled on the four criteria — strength increase (using the Epley formula), body fat percentage, physical feeling and emotional feeling.

These, along with caloric count and my workout routine, would be recorded so I could accurately compile the results at the end of the experiment. I was slated to begin my sentence at the luxurious facilities of the Sofitel Plaza Hotel on Le Duan in District 1. The Sofitel has great, well-maintained equipment and a sauna and steam room to sweat out your daily stress. I was going to begin my first workout in the evening after a long commute from District 7. And as I rode the elevator up to the third floor fitness centre and spa, I tried to calm my mind and focus on what exercises I might try tonight and how much this was going to hurt tomorrow. A solemn, serious expression stretched across my face, as I peered inquisitively into

the large-mirrored room of silent figures and torturous machines. Increasingly horrible groans seared over exasperated breathing. For me, an infrequent patron of the gym, this was the third of Dante’s circles, or a scene from Goethe or maybe a verse of Milton. The only feeling I could muster was complete and inexplicable indifference. When balanced against my post-workout gorge of 1,100 calories of various Ben Style’s goodness, I could only contemplate indigestion. Clutching the soft white towel, a confident step led my body towards the least threatening device available. Mounting the seat and securing my feet into straps, adolescent freedom resurfaced as I started cycling on the high-tech stationary bike. By the end of Day 1, after a full-on hour

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traipse around the circuit machine and weights area, I felt a sobering confidence. Nothing hurt, nothing ached, and the Ben Style post-workout meal was pleasant and tasty. Returning home and resting my head for a full night’s sleep I smiled and thought what an easy two weeks this was going to be.

Morning One Waking up to a crushing hangover I can deal with, or dragging my under-slept body from beneath my covers into my frigid airconditioned room, but the struggle seemed acute and overbearing that first sun-break. Oh, how my confidence slipped soberly into reality. “Here we go,” I thought, holding various muscle groups — wondering which one may fail me — as, grasping the staircase railing, I shambled down to the ground floor kitchen to start my protein-fueling day with three eggs, a two-avocado smoothie, and a splash of iced water to the face.

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I decided to seek some expert advice. As it were, in the catalogues of Saigonite transients, I knew an honest-to-goodness athlete in the form of Ben Wisniewski of the Saigon Heat. Wisniewski, a forward for our local ASEAN league basketball team, was going to be my sole contributor of useful, applicable and achievable advice for the duration of the experiment. I visited Wisniewski at his home on a sunny weekday morning to glean some knowledge. I mean, how could I not take the advice of a man who moves for a living? “Yeah man,” looking up from over his pre-heating frying pan, “the only advice that really works for me is to just eat all day.” He said this while nodding with a deadpan expression. “Have as much protein as you can, and eat a lot of small healthy snacks as well as your regular meals,” Ben suggested. “And make sure that you are using those calories in the gym and letting your muscles rest so they

can recover.” I squinted my eyes and nodded my head as if I was listening to an old wise man quote Confucius. I heeded Ben’s timely advice and sliced, steamed and scooped my way to stuffing my face on an hourly basis. The next five days were going to push my boundaries physically more than they’ve ever been pushed in the past.

Seeing the Change By the end of Day 6, the physical improvements became recordable evidence. I was lifting more weight, feeling less pain and cycling further within a time limit. By the end of Day 10, the typical morning drag became a bouncing routine. There was a definitive increase in morning energy, although my typical grumpy morning self stayed fully intact. Two days until the 9am photo shoot, and I was upbeat to do some hilarious face-stuffing of Ben Style food as I broke standard gym rules.

On the morning of Day 13 I donned my workout gear for the second-to-last time of this experiment (ever?). This was the morning of the shoot and I had brought Ben Styleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legendary Fatman Burger to chomp away at as I pushed and pulled and held a pose for the lens. A lift here and a bite there, and I could only feel embarrassed as the onlooking staff pointed, covered their mouths with the palms of their hands, and attempted to laugh secretly as I ate a giant hamburger for breakfast. By the end of Day 14, I was in a fantastic mood. No traffic jam or rainstorm, not even running out of gas could bury the feeling of completion. I felt considerably more energised in the morning and taught myself a little more about the importance of having good nutrition when you lead a busy lifestyle. I unlaced my running shoes, shoved them in my bag and exited the Sofitel into the warm evening air for the last time.

The Results Over the duration of the experiment I had been tracking the criteria every three or four days. The moment had come for me to weigh-in, tally-up and pen-down my findings before I started to clack away at my black laptop keys. My final results indicated I had lost 0.4kg, which may have been from the absence of Ben Style food that I would soon ingest; my toes even rose up to try and newton my way to extra weight. From my starting maximum lifting dumbbell weight of 12.5 kg, my right arm gained 3kg. The effects were the same for my left arm, and the maximum lifting weight of my other muscles increased in step. I had more energy in the morning and was sleeping solidly most nights. However, I was not feeling any significant emotional effects and, interestingly, my roommates had commented that my grumpy morning persona had been replaced by a grumpy evening persona. And finally my body fat,

which I monitored throughout the process, remained the same at 13 percent. Looking back I have some misgivings about the process and progression. Ben Style has some healthy bicep-busting cuisine and takes the guesswork out of how to count calories, protein and carbs. But the VND3 million I spent only on Ben Style food begged the question â&#x20AC;&#x201D; could I spend less and get the same results preparing my own dishes? Well, for someone with long-term goals a good mix between convenience and cost would best serve a busy working life. If you have an hour to spend at the gym, then you probably have 30 minutes to spend making healthy meal choices for your macho body goal. Ben Style can be contacted on 0906 912730 or through the likes of vietnammm.com or eat.vn. The Sofitel Plaza Fitness Centre is on the third floor of the hotel, 17 Le Duan, Q1. Membership costs from VND3.15 million++ per month, with discounts available for long-term subscriptions

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very now and then, you have one of those “pinch me” moments in Ho Chi Minh City. For example, finding yourself riding a bicycle in a pool behind a hair salon in Vietnam on a Saturday morning is a bit out there, even for me. But I am one of a group of enthusiasts heading to Concept Coiffure (48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2) to try Aquafit, one of the newest sports to make waves here. Looking around the class of six, there’s one other guy and four ladies. The previous class was all women. Participants in different stages of pregnancy are also present. Aquafit is particularly popular in Europe, notably Spain, France and Italy. Multiple muscles can be worked at the same, but participants also feel safe in the water, since they are not going to fall and hurt themselves. “It’s like an elliptical movement,” Aquafit representative Caroline Trowbridge explains of how the buoyancy of the water provides resistance. “You optimise your movements. When you’re in the water, it’s both energising and relaxing.” Indeed, it’s not like other workouts. I usually find myself measuring how much I’m panting and dripping with sweat as a measure of how everything went. No pain, no gain. Imagine riding a stationary bike but floating in a pool, surrounded by palm trees in someone’s yard. The first part of the workout is almost like spinning, as we ride the bike at various intensities. The second part involves maintaining balance while floating on water noodles and doing a variety of calisthenics.

Complementary Workouts As I’ve mentioned before, this is not a highimpact outing, like kickboxing or boot camp.

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“F beh inding ind yo mor a hair urself r ning salo idin is a n in g a b bit o Viet icyc ut t nam le in here on a , ev a Sa pool en f But it can stand alone as or mturday its own form of fitness, or e” in tandem with one’s other fitness routines. Caroline Poppe, who is seven months pregnant, sees this as a good alternative to other sports she can’t do as the birthing process approaches. “I can do it up to eight months,” she says. “It’s good, you don’t feel the weight and you can’t fall down.” Her involvement with the classes brought her husband Thierry Gougy on board, who lists running, kickboxing and skiing as some of his pastimes. “I do a lot of traumatic sports, and this one has no trauma on my joints,” explains Gougy. “I find it rejuvenating.” For more information, visit aquafit.vn

Get Your Kicks on Route Xuan Thuy Left jab — right jab — left hook — right hook — left uppercut — right uppercut. Repeat. Switch stations. Shadowboxing, same formula. Switch stations. High knees to the punching bag. A session at K1 Fight Factory is more than just a physical workout. It’s a mental exercise that tests your wits and reflexes as much as your endurance. “It’s 50 percent mental in boxing,” says Aurelien Mayer, K1’s French-national director. “It’s really a complete sport.”

A one-hour Thai boxing session saw participants ranging from the fitness-minded to fight enthusiasts being put through their paces in the compact gym. Areas of focus include speed, cardio fitness, strength and fighting technique. Nestled between villas and eateries in Thao Dien, snapshots of big fights from throughout the region find their place between the skipping ropes and punching bags. The club also teaches English boxing and kickboxing. After warm-ups and running, punching pads and jumping rope, participants can get paired up for sparring. Some people simply use the time to ensure proper form, while others really work up a sweat sparring with a live opponent. But by the end of running through the circuit, I found my punches lacked some of the pop they enjoyed at the beginning.

It Takes All Kinds The gym attracts a variety of participants with different goals in mind. “It’s really varied,” Mayer says. “Some are really here for learning technique, some for

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This villa month s of , Tha Harry H o Di en, y odge h ea ou c an s ds to D ti i Pho tos b ll test th strict 2 y Ky e lim and fi l e P sparring; hanr its of fi nds tha tn t, some just come oy a nd F ess in a amid th for something different ranc e n to do.” is X umber palm t You can see it with the mixed avie rees of d crowd on-hand the night I attended. Men r i ff e rent and and women are pretty even in ratio, with a way variety of ages in attendance. Mayer says there s. are classes for youngsters from age 10 and up are great, on through to adult. “I’ve seen a lot of people getting fitter here,” says expat Nadia Stawyskyk, a distance runner who made the sports switch when she found it difficult to run in Vietnam the way she was accustomed to in Australia. “All around it’s a really good workout. The (teachers)

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they mix it up. I’d recommend it to anybody else, of all shapes and sizes.” K1 Fight Factory is at 100 Xuan Thuy, Q2. Click on k1-factor.com for schedules and setting up one-on-one classes

Life

Photos by Nick Ross

An all-night rave in Vietnam finishing at sunset? Are you sure? Nick Ross meets the team behind Chasing the Sun, the first party to break the mould. Photos provided by Daniel Le

“I

t all started when I went with [Ivan Kamensky] to Mui Ne,” says coorganiser of Chasing the Sun, Daniel Le. “We decided to organise a music festival and we were looking for a place. I knew [Erik Heymans] had a piece of empty beach. But he said, wait. Come up here. And there under construction was Mui Ne Hills 3.” Set 200m up the hill from the main drag, Mui Ne Hills 3 was the third hotel to be created by Erik and his partner, Ngo Thanh Cuong (Long). Built as an extra facility for the guests staying at the other two properties close by, the 3000sqm building came with a pure luxury swimming pool, Jacuzzi and an events space. Yet, when Daniel and Ivan first broached the idea, the all-night infrastructure that’s here today was still a ways off. “So I asked Erik,” continues Daniel, “if he really thought he could finish the space within a month. He said yes. He kept his part of the deal.” In December 2012 the first Chasing the Sun party took place in Mui Ne with Saigon-based DJs Drew Tudose and Mr Ten on the decks. Running from sunset to sunrise, with the last punters finally leaving at 7.30am, it was an

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unprecedented success. Despite the constant headaches — nothing ever seems to go quite right — Daniel remembers it well. “At sunrise there were 20 people left,” he laughs. “The music stopped and they started clapping.”

Getting Mountain High Now running monthly, the party-cum-ravecum-music-festival brings in over 700 people. Entrance is free, with the organisers making their money from drink sales. The key to that festival feeling is atmosphere — here it’s all about energy, and the organisers do everything to keep the partygoers from getting stuck in one place. “In Europe, you get people to move physically,” says Erik. “This is what we do. We get people to move.” Stacking DJs, live bands and fire twirlers, with spectral lights shining weird colours above, the backlight of the pool illuminate the party’s border until the moment turns and the scantily-clad party kids tumble in. The Neena Vee-branded party shots that crop up after each event show this energy, in jump cuts, short skirts and echoes of flash, blurred

streaks of light filtering across each image. Location also adds to the atmosphere. Mui Ne Hills is off of the shoreline, but the rumble of ocean waves is still an ever-present, haunting the edge of the party and giving the bass lines some reverb. “The spirit in the party is very important,” adds Daniel. “You need to feel the temperature rising. We are coming up with this huge concept, this huge programme and it’s free. And we’re just telling people to come. The biggest pleasure is when people tell you that they had pleasure, that you’ve done a good job.” And by all accounts, this is something most partygoers tell him. People come to these things to feel something impossible in the daytime, to be pushed into transcendence by clever design touches, fun people and exploding bass lines. Chasing the Sun gives them all this, with an occasional sunrise at the end. For more information on Chasing the Sun go to facebook.com/ ChasingTheSunVietnamMusicFestival, or email Erik on muinehills1@yahoo.com and Daniel on daniel.le@yandex.ru

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C roptop

and pleated floral skirt combo :

VND945,000 by Peonies

Style Ambassadors Combining fashion and business isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t easy â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and in Vietnam, only a few have what it takes. This month we bring you three different brands with their own clothing lines designed and made in Vietnam, which satisfy the masses with their style but have still stayed cutting edge. From the multicultural, ethnic elegance of Linda Mai Phung to the sophisticated, insouciance of Lam and the retro-vintage soft style of Peonies, these looks take casual style to an effortless place. Photos by Mads Monsen Modelling by Kathryn Cardenas Styling by Kathryn Cardenas and Francis Xavier Hair and Makeup by Francis Xavier June 2013 Word | 105

L over shirt : VND2.2 million by Lam; R ed mullet skirt : Custom by Linda Mai Phung

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S heer

black shirt :

VND545,000 by Peonies; M ag skirt pearl : VND1.6 million by Linda Mai Phung; B ag by Anupa

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Y ellow

by Lam

lace croptop :

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VND1,990,000

top mint :

VND1,750,000 by Linda Mai Phung; skirt : VND685,000 by Peonies

B lack

Linda Mai Phung is at Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Usine, 151 Dong Khoi, 1st Floor, Q1 Lam Boutique is at 76A Le Loi, 1st Floor, Q1 Peonies Boutique is at 46/12 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3

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City Guide BUSINESS 112 / EAT 119 / BARS 126 / CAFES 130 / ARTS 133 / LEISURE 134 / WELLNESS 139 / FASHION 143 / INTERIORS 146 / ELECTRONICS 148 / GROCERIES 149 / GENERATION V 150 / TRAVEL 154 Photo by Alexandre garel

ADDITIONAL FEATURES

Job Search 116 Rising Sun 120 Decks, Drums 124 The Coffee Cup 128 For the Record 134 Body & Temple 136 Window Shopping 144 June 2013 Word | 111

BUSINESS From accounting to advertising to serviced apartments, our selection of some of the city's top businesses

Accounting & Audit BUREAU VERITAS

E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 3812 2196 bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions in all major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC.

DELOITTE VIETNAM

11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0751 deloitte.com/vietnam Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries. A member firm of Deloitte Touche Tohatsu.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS

ecutive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED

7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 3812 5562 odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com With more than ten years of experience in Vietnam in all major industry sectors, PwC provides auditing, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 0220 globaleye.com An invaluable resource for expats, Globaleye provides consultation on investments, offshore banking, education planning, life protection, wills, pensions and more.

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

KPMG

TMF GROUP

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9266 kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides ex-

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Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Headquartered in the Netherlands with over 100 offices in 75 countries, TMF provides accounting, tax and payroll

services. Specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam.

Advertising & Mktg ADMAKER

Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3500 admaker.com.vn A local full-service agency run by advertising professionals, dedicated to providing clients with results-orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM

Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8632 bates141.com A full-service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group. Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

BBDO VIETNAM

74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com

Working extensively across Asia, Cowean specialises in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies.

DDB

7th Floor, 246 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 9000 DDB Vietnam Group is part of DDB Worldwide global community. Our talent, cultures and ideas are united by the fundamental belief that creativity is the most powerful force in business. Our creativity, along with our conviction and collaboration builds influential brands for our clients.

Dentsu Vietnam

AB TOWER, 23rd Floor 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9005 dentsunetwork.com A 100 percent foreignowned advertising agency established in 2003. We provide through-the-line communication services from brand consultancy, creative concept and development, promotion, digital to media planning and buying for Toyota, Aji-no-moto, Canon, Panasonic, Kao and Abbott among others.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM

13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn One of the largest global advertising agency networks, with headquarters in both Chicago and New York, DraftFCB has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries.

GREY GROUP

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam This full-spectrum marketing / communications company offers PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

and metal parts.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 3615 marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented locally and globally recognized campaigns.

OGILVY & MATHER

PBB graphic Studio

Tel: 01265 669632 contact@pbb-studio.com www.pbb-studio.com Founded in 2002, with more than 10 years of experience in graphic design, PBB specialises in branding, interior graphics, signage, print design, POSM and web design. As of 2006, PBB has been based in Ho Chi Minh City operating as a graphic consultant for creative agencies, companies as well as private clients.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Villa B, 12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia offer (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for plastics, consumer products, electronics,

12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72– 74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company combines local know-how with a worldwide network to leverage the brands of multinational clients.

PHIBIOUS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 6777 phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA

Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3898 1005 purpleasia.com A leading communications company, Purple Asia offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.

Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 7858 bdg–vietnam.com Active in sourcing & production, strategic marketing and project management, BDG partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open perspectives, address critical challenges and promote successful business in Vietnam.

CONCETTI

Tel: (08) 3925 2538 riverorchid.com Communications network operating in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade, specialising in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3911 1480 concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the Vietnamese government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

DL TECHNOLOGIES

RIVER ORCHID

3 Phan Van Dat, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM

Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, with marketing services including strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 0779 xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

Business Consulting BDG VIETNAM

11th Floor, Capital Place, 6

69A1 Tran Ke Xuong, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3551 2260 dltechnologies.com.au DL Technologies provides premium integrated technology solutions with emphasis on local “on the ground” support from a highly skilled international team. Services include home entertainment, security systems, air conditioning and energy-management systems.

ERNST & YOUNG

8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 5252 ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO

goldenspeedseo.com Helps clients get maximum exposure for their websites by improving rankings in search engines like Google. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON

28th Floor, Saigon Trade

Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 9100 gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants work in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity, and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 0916 352573 inspiredimage.co.uk An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong Nguyen offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES

8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 6416 prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering expertise in data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE

6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com Specialist in intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services, from the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com Aids in the opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts and

provides licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing to offshore businesses based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor, 14 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884 strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL strives to deliver superior results and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia via corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion and market research.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 3402 xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and professional development. Services include team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

Business Groups AMCHAM

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562. amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland

Building, 179EF, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

25 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org BBGV promotes the interests of its members in addition to the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM

Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM

12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 5423 nordcham.com Provides support for Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM

40/5 Pham Viet Chanh, Ward 19, Binh Thanh pbgvn.com A non-profit organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding and to serve as the voice of Filipino business entities.

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org 300+ members meet regularly to foster HCMC business relations, as well as to organise social, cultural, educational and charitable activities. Membership grants access to a wide range of discounts around town.

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a non-profit organisation that strives to promote economic and cultural activities, as well as cooperation between Swiss business entities and Vietnamese authorities.

Coaching & Training WE Link

64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Short–term courses and workshops on discovering and developing self, applying psychology for a healthier life (personal, marital, parental). Courses for specialists / practitioners in human service fields. Train the trainer. Practice with supervision.

Corporate Gifts AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and more.

Event Management EVECOO

Tel: (08) 0988 297990 evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve

June 2013 Word | 113

{business Buff} ** Where Do Billionaires Come From? ** By Shane Dillon

and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the touches to make any event memorable.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall has four ballrooms, a rooftop terrace, and banquet, catering and event services. Gala Royale is the ideal venue for meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings or anniversaries.

MR BOUNCY INFLATABLE GAME HIRE

50/8 Hoa Binh, Q11, Tel: 0165 6392 507 mrbouncy.com.vn Mr Bouncy is an inflatable game hire company, hiring out a number of inflatables such as waterballs, bouncy castles and more inflatable items for parties and events.

take an interest when someone is worth a billion dollars, especially if they make it themselves and come from very little. And that is why I was very happy recently to come across a report on the origins of the current 100 richest people in the world. Of the 100 richest, 27 inherited their fortune, so let’s forget about them straight away. Wealth not earned is not very interesting, even if it does make for some interesting people. So that leaves 73 selfmade billionaires. Of these around half come from poor socio-economic households and eight of these had no college education. So let’s focus on these eight exceptional people who come from nothing with a limited access to education, only to become some of the most successful people on the planet. The one thing they all have in common is they worked hard and took huge risks.

The Billionaires Club Number 8: Francis Pinault (US$12 billion) From a lumber milling family, he tried several businesses before one deal changed his life. Pinault's holding company Artemis S.A., owns (or owned), among others, Converse shoes and Samsonite luggage. Number 7: John Fredriksen (US$13 billion) Son of a welder and famous for micromanaging his business — now thought to be the largest oil tanker fleet in the world. Fredriksen made his fortune during the Iran-Iraq wars in the 1980s when his tankers picked up oil at great risk and made huge profits. Number 6: Leonardo del Vecchio (US$13 billion) An orphan who recognized trends early. He is the founder and chairman of Luxottica, a US$3 billion (sales) designer

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ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD and manufacturer of high-quality eyeglass frames. The firm owns the Sunglass Hut and Lenscrafters chains with a total of over 6,000 stores. Number 5: Li Ka-Shing (US$17 billion) An orphan who tried several different businesses and made his fortune investing in troubled times and buying companies in ruin. He is the world's largest operator of container terminals and the world's largest health and beauty retailer. Number 4: Sheldon Adelson (US$22 billion) Son of a taxi driver, he began to sell newspapers at the age of 12 and started a candy vending machine business at the age of 16. He is now chairman of Las Vegas Sands Corporation. Number 3:Larry Elison (US$37 billion) Given up for adoption due to illness, he did not meet his natural mother until he was 48. Good with computer design he is the cofounder of Oracle. Number 2: Invar Kampard (US$41 billion) Son of a farmer, he started out buying matches in bulk and selling them to other local kids, and eventually founded IKEA. Number 1: Amancio Ortega (US$52 billion) Son of a railroad worker, he is a fashion executive and the founding chairman of the Inditex fashion group, best known for its chain of Zara retail shops. Shane Dillon works in financial services and studies economics. He can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6675 2620 vietnam-weddings.com Wedding planning business offers comprehensive services for weddings of any size or style. Delivers high-quality, detailed planning and resources to create dream weddings.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to make any kind of event a success.

Expat Services CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 chumshouse.com Dedicated to helping expats find housing, Chum’s House provides an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference. Also facilitates motorbike rentals and visa acquisition, all free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916 happy-house.vn Happy House aims to make

HousingInteractive

Saigon life easier by offering practical solutions to every kind of problem — including bill payments, repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam, Resident Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

Housing & Real Estate CBRE

Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news. Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3529 colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and renters in all matters related to commercial and residential property.

CREATION

International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553 A real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sales, leasings, rentals, free brokerage and aftersales service.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 4707 cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy.

EASY SAIGON

easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: 6255 6774 www.housinginteractive.com HousingInteractive offers an easy-to-use, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website allows users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time. Upon selecting, HousingInteractive’s professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

Tel: (08) 3914 7003 homeconnect.asia/en/vietnam HomeConnect by Transpo provides a home search service to expats already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas, with a full range of relocation services available to new arrivals as well.

KNIGHT FRANK

Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

REAL QUEST VIETNAM

1 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8516 realquestvietnam.com Real Quest Vietnam staffs a mix of foreigners and Vietnamese to find house-seekers good homes at affordable prices.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.

SNAP

snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web–based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SPOT

18/34b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 955877 spotvietnam.com Native English speakers specialising in rentals and tenancy management.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and lease around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP

Blue Cross Vietnam

8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IF CONSULTING

1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

iGlobalAssist

Tel: 0934 874271 jpruss@iglobalassist.com Represents insurance programs offered by Seven Corners, and other global insurers. Customized health and travel cover options available at competitive rates for corporations, individuals, families, students, and groups.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a range of services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare.

PRUDENTIAL

Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0999 prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, Prudential has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

Investment & Finance DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider, with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one

ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t–wm.com Offers personal financial planning for expatriates, portable retirement savings plans, tax minimisation strategies, asset allocation and money management, debt and cash–flow planning, life, disability and health insurance and family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

Language Schools BELL VIETNAM

28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

UNIVERSAL ENGLISH CENTER

110-112-114 Street No. 2, Hung Gia 5, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 3300 www.uec.edu.vn A fast-growing English language center in District 7’s Phu My Hung, UEC was founded in 2009. Now with 500 students drawn from 17 different nationalities, the classes are served by over 35 native English speaking teachers who are committed to providing a culturally diverse and engaging classroom atmosphere. Offers a wide range of classes from beginner levels through TOEFL, IGCSE, SAT and IELTS. UEC also provides support to students aspiring for a place in international schools.

M: 097 675 06 44 - david.shinn@alliedpickfords.com.vn M: 0122 514 1848 - joel.garbutt@alliedpickfords.com.vn

HOMECONNECT BY TRANSPO

Hanoi: David Shinn HCMC: Joel Garbutt

of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam.

Enquiries via their website are welcome.

THE NEST

369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

Insurance BAOVIET INSURANCE

Tel: (08) 3825 8416 interglobalvn.com Offers hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits for anyone up to age 74. Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. No claims discount available.

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{JOB Search} **

It’s More than Just a Resumé

ILA VIETNAM

By Jeff Bonnin

51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER

The Written Word What’s more important than having a traditional resume is identifying and crafting your compelling WHY. And the way to do that is by harnessing the power of the written word. Your compelling WHY should be a short, concise statement that clearly articulates what is your Value Add. It’s who you are as a brand, and it should answer questions like these: Why are you different? Why should we be interested in you? Why should we hire you? Why are you of value to an organisation? Why should we believe you?

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12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provides on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS LAW COMPANY

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

VLS SAIGON Use the power of the written word to craft your compelling WHY. It could be a statement at the top of your resume, the intro to your LinkedIn profile, or the key message on your website. You want to give a recruiter or hiring manager a reason to read further down in your resume or to click through and review your profile. The written word is wherever you find it. It could be one or two sentences in an email that you send a recruiter or hiring manager — if there is a compelling WHY, that’s all they need to be compelled to read further. For example, a corporate communications writer could say: “I’m a world-class corporate communications writer with the ability to drive sales decision in your business. For samples of my work, click here.” It could be a tweet. Or a bleet. It’s your elevator pitch in words. Think about it, Google is not about graphics. It’s about content and the written word. With the evolution of online content, advertising and search, content and compelling language is what makes you stand out. To make yourself stand out in today’s employment market, worry less about the look of your resume and instead harness the power of the written word to communicate your compelling WHY. If you require further information, please visit adecco.com.vn or email jeff.bonnin@adecco. com.vn. Jeff Bonnin is the Business Manager, Professional Staffing at Adecco Vietnam

BAKER & MCKENZIE

33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com Offers classes to francophone and other foreign children and adults. Classes include monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), Vietnamese lessons and extracurricular activities.

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden. com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and central campus or at your home, office or over Skype.

re resumés dead? Well not completely, but they have certainly started to lose their relevance. Online information, such as your LinkedIn profile and personal website, are the preferred go-to spots for headhunters and hiring managers. Think about it, when you want to find out about someone, what do you do? You Google them to see what comes up, you search for them on LinkedIn, or you check out their social media pages. Many candidates that are approached by headhunters don’t have an up-to-date resume. Why?? That’s because they are not actively looking and therefore have not taken the time to update their CV. If they take the time to do anything, they’ll go online to tweet and update their LinkedIn profile.

resource for English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vietnamese context on all matters of business and commerce.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide. The Vietnam office offers clients high quality service that combines legal expertise with a highly commercial approach, across all sectors of business law.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlsstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established in 2006, Indochine Counsel assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994, the firm provides clients with a full range of legal services in all areas, including corporate, real estate, banking and finance and all forms of inward investment.

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com Provides Vietnamese language training by qualified and experienced teachers, and expert certification, notarization and translation for all types of materials and documents.

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected language institutions in the city, VUS offers programmes that are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York.

Legal Services ALLENS

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm providing standard legal services to corporate clients, Allens’ website is also an excellent

MAYER BROWN JSM

Management Training BRAINBOX VIETNAM

5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6920 7405 brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

EMBERS ASIA

4th floor, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com The first team-building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in ensuring success in globally competitive markets. Embers’ HR performance management

services include excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn With campuses throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes to tourism and hospitality, all the way through to MBAs.

G&H

6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

company that works on competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies, Synovate combines global research capabilities with personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific needs.

EPINION

TNS VIETNAM

11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8989 epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company operating the largest online panel in Vietnam. Offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6965 indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH

Tel: 0128 3327472 innovativetraining2020.com Innovative Training 2020 provides tailored training courses combining soft skills with English, offering training and development in all industries — hospitality, banking, healthcare, IT and local government.

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis and trade promotion.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

NIELSEN

INNOVATIVE TRAINING 2020

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402 xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and professional development. Services include assessment and development, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

Market Research CIMIGO

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com Global information and measurement company, with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM

13th Floor, Room 1312, Kumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 6288 8785 synovate.com A global market research

105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5727 tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

Public Relations MASSO GROUP

30 Dang Tat, Q1 massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand-building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS

Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications. com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA)

1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2989 universalmanagementasia. com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

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VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

Recruitment & HR Adecco Vietnam

11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 8800 hr2b. com Established in 2003, HR2B is one of Vietnam’s top three HR consulting firms, specialising in finding opportunities for senior level professionals. Other services include pay-

roll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM

8th Floor, Resco Building, 9496 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0950 manpower.com.vn The first global recruitment company to set up locally, Manpower offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT

4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 3115 mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services in a wide variety of industries, including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing.

NAVIGOS GROUP

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5000 navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM

2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 8209 opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit

high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups.

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM

39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 7900 robertwalters.com.vn Offers a professional recruitment service, specialising in sales and marketing, technical healthcare, accountancy and finance, banking and financial services, human resources, IT, supply chain, engineering and oil and gas.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM

Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9488 towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com Online job-search website with one of the best selections of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

Relocation Agents AGS Four Winds (Vietnam)

ERS TIG ASIAN

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3521 0071 www.agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850 seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

Allied Pickfords

Santa Fe Relocation Services

Tel: 01225 141848 joel.garbutt@alliedpickfords. com.vn www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL

9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7799 asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS

48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5325 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam, Resident Vietnam provides a full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management

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services.

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3. Tel: (08) 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email info@santaferelo.com. vn for info.

Serviced Apartments Apato

15B/107 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 apato.com.vn Rooms for rent in Districts 1, 4 and 7. From VND5 million to VND9 million per month with laundry, cleaning and facilities included. Minimum stay of two weeks or one month available, no deposit required.

CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay.

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111. cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown, Cityview has 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, billiards lounge, kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES

Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

JASMINE COURT

307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh jasminecourt.com.vn Five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport

and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes.

NORFOLK MANSION

17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside–apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one to three-bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

Somerset Serviced Residences

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q1 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK

5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

[ EAT

THE TOP

* *

RESTAURANTS

Want to know the best places to eat or drink in this city? Here is our pick of the top 100 restaurants

French & Italian Bibi@Alibi

Parisian cuisine.

LA CAMARGUE

5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 4888 A romantic, indoor setting creates the atmosphere at this white tablecloth mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine, it also boasts excellent desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

CIAO BELLA

LA CUISINE

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

la brasserie de saigon

FRENCH / PARISIEN 38 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 3657 Chic art nouveau decor surrounds this dining experience – but the streetside seafood stand draws the focus back to where it should be, on the fresh, authentic

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LA TRATTORIA DEL BUON VINO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 01634 991625 delbuonvino.com Serving traditional Italian cuisine with a contemporary flair, Del Buon Vino (the Good Wine) also features a beautiful lounge on the 3rd floor for relaxing with friends and a glass of wine.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

La Plancha

25 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8521 Home-cooked, bistro-style fare at reasonable prices. Has a great outdoor terrace and the cuisine is embellished with the real taste of France and The Mediterranean. A popular local haunt.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1 Tel: (08) 3915 3692 luccasaigon.com A contemporary trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a beautifully designed space with high ceilings. The menu features both traditional antipasti and substantial main courses.

MARGHERITA

ITALIAN, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760 A family-run restaurant selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas to hungry backpackers for well over a decade. Amiable service and reasonable prices make a very pleasant eating experience.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ)

FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: 0903 852956 kcafevietnam.com French backpacker area mainstay attracting a clientele made up of Gallic expats and tourists. Excellent food menu with daily specials backs up a long bar seating area perfect for cradling a Ricard.

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

STELLA CAFFE

BEIRUT

TROIS GOURMANDS

Black Cat

ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9220 Two-storey Stella serves very reasonable Italian food — antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata plus meats and fish — at reasonable prices. Also has Wi-Fi, cool aircon, and one of the best lattes around. Now no-smoking indoors. CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 4585 Trois Gourmands is the successor to the legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh, and continues to serve up some of the best Gallic fare in town. The seven-course, wine-paired dinner remains excellent value.

International AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0838 238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Excellent delivery service.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3 Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, is hand carved at your table. Can get busy.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2188 A Lebanese restaurant and shisha lounge located downtown, encompasses a multiple-floored restaurant and extensive garden area. As the name suggests the menu has a Lebanese/Arabic theme. AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomerang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink The city’s first contemporary German beer bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers well known German beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine —sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed yet chic drinking hall setting.

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{r i s i n g Sun}

Central Parc Banh Mi

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New York-themed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels. Excellent delivery service.

** Ramen Bar Suzuki * *

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 7622 This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-your-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CIRRUS

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Level 51, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8751 cirrussaigon.com Highest dining in the city. Modern international and pan-Asian fine dining cuisine with 360-degree sweeping views. Open theatre kitchen, mezzanine seating and 300+ label walk-in wine cellar.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

here is a mural on the wall when you enter Ramen Bar Suzuki. It’s all grey, white and black behind the bar — but outside, seemingly beckoning for you to come in, is a giant bowl of ramen with an egg prominently displayed just off-centre. In fact, one might venture to say that Suzuki’s is designed around a ramen motif. There are noodle-like curved bars framing the stairway, giant white booths that were clearly intended to resemble bowls, pendant lights encircled with wire that, when illuminated, bring to mind the sweet chaos of tonkotsu noodles. Though Suzuki’s is starkly modern and minimalistic in design, there is also something oddly comforting about it — as if everything is at play to fill you with warmth and energy, not so unlike its main dish. I am greeted at the door by the owner, Chef Suzuki, immediately after entering, and am led to believe this is not unusual; he is at home in

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Photos by Francis Xavier

his restaurant and you are his valued guest. He is young and dressed in fashionable chef’s attire, a blue towel is tied like a bandana around his head, and his longish hair peeks out from the top. He buses the bar, helps out his staff. There is no grating ego here, just a man who loves what he does — and that just so happens to be making delicious, steaming bowls of ramen.

The Lunch Rush It is nearing the end of the lunch rush but, tellingly, Suzuki’s is still quite busy. Upstairs it is quiet enough

Ramen Bar Suzuki

to enjoy the jazz playing in the background, but the environment of round booths and tables is meant for conversing, enjoying your company. The staff flows in and out, summoned by buzzers on the tables. The menu has pictures and the descriptions are enticing: pan-fried garlic, spicy miso, simmered until perfection. There are five variations of ramen: pure white, cardinal red, jet black, with fish powder, and dipped ramen with tonkotsu soup and fish powder. The jet black ramen is a revelation. It arrives quickly, the steam rising up to intoxicate upon impact. The bright colours and rich flavours blend together to be simultaneously gorgeous as well as toothsome. A bowl (with egg) will set you back VND148,000, but believe me when I say it is worth every dong. Suzuki’s marries a fabulous dining experience with a simply perfect bowl of delectable ramen, and it should not be missed. — Jacklynn Blanchard

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3915 6006 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

Le Banh Mi

12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036 Imagine traditional Vietnamese banh mi, put it in a French baguette, add in a nice sauce or two and you have the diminutive Le Banh Mi. Excellent baguettes at cheap prices, with a choice of three sauces.

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon Buffet restaurant specialising in a boutique

selection of appetisers, local and imported seafood, succulent steaks from the grill, and hand-crafted noodles. Bakery operates throughout day to ensure that every dish arrives fresh.

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, el: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn Mogambo is one of the city’s longest running establishments. A well-known expat meeting spot, with dishes running from fajitas and burritos through to the coronary bypass burger, gumbo and ribs.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

PASHA

THE DECK

PIZZA 4P’S

WARDA

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677 pasha.com.vn Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. Authentically Turkish cuisine with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in.

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 Old images of Saigon grace the walls while a pianist plays in the background of the Caravelle’s signature restaurant. The fare is surprisingly contemporary. Good choice for a particularly special meal.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

Bahdja

87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine.

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures.com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

Japanese Blanchy Street

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

SKEWERS

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PARKVIEW

STRATA

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

PACHARAN

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

INTERNATIONAL/ASIAN Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750 cirrussaigon.com All-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express business lunch, high tea, and buffet dinner, along with an a la carte menu.

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{ food Promos } New World Hotel saigon.newworldhotels.com Although it’s impossible to ever get bored with dim sum, Dynasty is staying one step ahead of the curve by working out four themed dim sum menus, available Jun. 18 to Jun. 30. You can select from seafood, assorted savoury meats, poultry and veggies — featuring the likes of deep-fried squid balls, pan-fried onion pancakes with lamb, pigeon dumplings with black mushrooms, pine nuts and chilli sauce, ostrich dumplings with Chinese celery and spinach dumplings with gingko nuts and garlic. Mix and match or enjoy them as Chef Ho designed them to be — a theme party for your mouth — starting at VND138,000 per portion, available lunch and dinner. But you might be asking, what about the lobster? Well, lucky for you, on the ground floor Parkview has Infinite Lobster — now available on the weekend, only VND820,000 per person with unlimited orders possible. If you’ve been unable to get your fill on the customary Wednesdays, this should be exciting news — you can now rest up and get in more lobsters all weekend long. Which begs the question, what is infinite plus infinite? A question for the ages, that, but hopefully it will get your lobster cravings satisfied. Nifty Fifties @Last Call, 59 Dong Du, Q1 Last Call is aiming to start the night a bit earlier with its Fifty Tuesday promo — 50 percent off all signature cocktails on Tuesdays, all night long until August. Get there early enough to enjoy the sleek and cool atmosphere in a calm frame of mind, and don’t call it an early night on account of your budget. Hotel Equatorial hcm.equatorial.com Even if you have to spend the whole day with Dad on Jun. 16, you don’t have to do it without help. You can start getting in the

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** PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH * *

right frame of mind by attending Chit Chat’s Father’s Day buffet brunch, which includes a free flow of beer, wine and various delicacies from the sashimi and oyster bars. They’re even prepared if you forgot a gift, with a little token of appreciation for every dad who walks through the door — all for VND690,000++ per person. If you want to step it up a notch, check out the Gold Medal set menu at Orientica or dinner buffet of award-winning dishes at Chit Chat. Right now, Equatorial is riding high on its take-home of the The Best Hotel Establishment of Vietnam Culinary Challenge 2013 title, and they want to share the love — only VND798,000++ per

on a table of four or more — VND900,000++ per person. But father appreciation doesn’t begin and end with Jun. 16. Give it a rest until Jun. 28, then take him to The United Steaks of America dinner, happening with choice USDA cuts imported from the ‘land of the free heart attack’. This promo goes till Jul. 7 — VND990,000++ per person.

Sheraton Saigon sheratonsaigon.com If Dad is a classy dude, then Saigon Café is the place he’ll want to be on Jun. 16. Not only does Father’s Day brunch include the standard seafood, beef and sushi, but it’s also home to a free flow of Moët and Chandon champagne (and wine, beer and cocktails, if Dad isn’t quite that classy). Get started at 11.30am with all the good kids — VND1.2 million++ Sunday Paella and Weekper person. end BBQ @La Habana, 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Let’s say — let’s just say! — It’s Sunday, and you need you’ve ditched Dad by the next something fun but relatively Friday, but acquired a taste for the low-key to ease you into the good life. Well Saigon Café invites week. That’s why you might be you back, any Friday in June, for thinking La Habana’s Sunday Paella “Crab Theme Night”. There are crazy crabs here, including those in lasagna, those in sushi and some crab bisque. Even a free flow of Chandon and wine to wash it down. What the heck, you’re feeling generous — maybe you’ll even invite Dad next Friday, too. VND980,000++ per person.

The cuisine at Bahdja, the only Algerian restaurant in town. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

person. If you like, you can even get an “Enjoyed Winning Dish” certificate and have your photo taken with an award-winning chef. Might just be another thing up Dad’s ol’ alley. Renaissance Riverside Hotel marriott.com Ok, you don’t need reminding. But yes, Jun. 16 is Father’s Day, you neglectful child. The Riverside Café hasn’t forgotten, with a classy Father’s Day buffet including a free flow of sparkling wine, regular wine, beer and cocktails. You can hit either the brunch or dinner, and Riverside will even pick up Dad’s tab

offering was made just for you. VND500,000++ will buy you one of La Habana’s outstanding paellas for two, while VND300,000++ will rate you a single serving — all including appetisers, sangria and your choice of chockfull paella. Enjoy it during Sunday’s happy hour — lasting noon to 8pm — and you can make it a very easy transition to those hectic workweek happy hours, indeed. And if grills are your thing, now there’s something to get you champing at the bit. On Fridays and Saturdays La Habana is getting out the barbecue with an all-you-can-eat selection of Cuban and German-inspired meats, all for just VND350,000++.

Bahdja 87-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 The first Algerian restaurant to come to Ho Chi Minh City is offering couscous specials throughout the week. Opening Monday sees 20 percent off couscous, there is a free glass of wine on Median Wednesday with each couscous mergeuz order and on Boundary Friday, a dessert and mint tea are on the house with every couscous royale meal. Sofitel Saigon Plaza sofitel.com In a throwback to vintage glamour and style, the hotel is hosting a 1960s-themed BBQ party at its rooftop swimming pool on June 21. The pool party kicks off from 6pm until midnight with entrance at VND400,000 net including one free drink, or you can opt for the St. Tropez package at VND800,000 net with a BBQ Buffet until 10pm and free flow of wine and beer until midnight. A third option is the Riviera Package at VND1 million net with BBQ Buffet until 10pm and free spirits, wine and beer until midnight.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008 Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the menu here focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also rice and dumpling options.

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita, from Osaka, Inaho features some of the best sushi and sashimi in town, with faultless ingredients and presentation.

KABUTO TOKYO

JAPANESE / FUSION 45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2351 Kabuto Tokyo offers typical Japanese cuisine, and fusion dishes in a dramatic environment with Manga cartoons on the walls, golden ceilings, Japanese armour and huge carp steamer lantern displays.

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Noodles can be found in every form in this sleek, open-kitchened eatery. Noodles are served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527 Japanese eatery specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoalgrilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, and various other meat and vegetable options are good, too. Great lunch set.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Does a great set lunch deal.

Pan-Asian ashoka

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant.com Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BABA’S KITCHEN

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 863114 Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine. Simple fan-cooled dining area with all dishes costing well under VND100,000.

CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3837 1311 Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef this is one of the few eateries in town serving up very good pan-Thai cuisine. Great value, with mains generally around VND70,000.

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant. vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn Excellent, long-running restaurant with classic Thai decor. The fare includes laab salads, curries, som tam, fish cakes and dishes such as deep-fried catfish with mango salad. Three VIP rooms upstairs.

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn Hong Kong casual dining restaurant, Gourmet’s Delight Roast

Kitchen is the first of its kind in Saigon serving authentic barbeque and traditional Cantonese dishes in a laid-back atmosphere.

KABIN

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic five-storey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

MONSOON

DELIVERY Ben’s Style

Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

Chez Guido

Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

Domino’s Pizza

Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

Eat.Vn

www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

el gato negro

Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN

www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

Lotteria

SEOUL HOUSE

Pizza Hut (PHD)

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular with a cosmopolitan clientele. Food includes banchan starters, bulgogi, awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

TANDOOR

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Downtown location, and extensive menu taking in anything from creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to vindaloo, sambhar, dosa, and kebabs. Also a great range of vegetarian fare.

A Ta ste of Authenticity

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

PHAT PHUC’s

2A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4520 British-style pan-Chinese Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

Scoozi

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

Taco Bich

www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

willy woo’s

Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon. com US-style chicken and waffles

Vietnammm

www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

Zipang

Tel: (08) 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm. com for menu

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00

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www.pendolasco.vn

{d e c k s

Drums & Rock'n Roll}

** Pilgrimage for Love * *

he stage was further away than I had expected. From my seat in the first row of the first balcony of Singapore’s massive Esplanade Theatre, the microphone boom poles on stage looked like broken toothpicks. Compared to their shows I’d seen before — five total, all where I could easily reach out and grope awkwardly at their shoes — the lack of proximity was shocking. The house lights dimmed, and the audience shivered with gasps and shrieks. The silhouettes of two figures emerged from stage left already holding guitars. When the lights came back up, applause swelled against the auditorium walls. Two identically asymmetrical haircuts atop angular cheekbones were looking back at us. “Hi,” one of them chirped over the shrill of her microphone, pulling a guitar pick from her smirking lips. “We’re Tegan and Sara.”

Original photo by Lyndsey Byrnes

Big, Bigger, Biggest The two are twin sisters from Canada who come from humble indie roots and got their start strumming badly tuned acoustic guitars in coffee shops and bowling alleys. They’re known for charming onstage arguments, impromptu conversations with audience members and gushy lyrics over indie rock guitar loops. Consistently branded as the “dream twins of indie rock”, the pair rarely got radio play but instead attracted an intensely dedicated fan base that grew exponentially from show to show — myself one of them. Their luck changed with the release of their controversially pop-inspired record Heartthrob and its synthy single Closer. Their flawless production and sound perplexed longtime fans while simultaneously catapulting them into the mainstream and onto radio airwaves, with their single opening at #3 on the charts. Unsurprisingly, the duo launched into an expansive international tour that finally had a date in Asia — which was, to my shock and amazement, two hours away by plane in Singapore. The last time I had seen them live was in a tiny record store in the university town where I lived. At the time, they sat on stools and balanced their guitars on keyboards on their knees, no more than a few feet away. Even after shelling out US$100 for my seat on the conspicuously labeled ‘balcony’, I had deluded myself into thinking this show would be no different.

124 | Word June 2013

The balcony was, in fact, just that — towering far above the clamour of super-fans that shot up from their seats and shoved against the front barrier the moment the lights dimmed. The energy seemed to radiate from the stage, and the people not within spitting distance were noticeably more demure than the rest of the crowd. Even I — the girl who had emptied a meager savings account to pay for the concert — only stood for the first few songs, and perched on the edge of my seat for the rest of it.

Everlasting Love The fact is, going to see a live show in Singapore should have clued me in — bands from North America don’t willingly fly halfway around the world to play intimate settings. Assuming that Tegan and Sara would be any different was assuming

too much. Part of me, though, selfishly wished that I was still in the exclusive fan club that had arm-length conversations with them from behind their microphones. My departure from the US over a year ago had separated me, in a way, from the band I thought would never graduate past manning their own merchandise table in record stores. Regardless, I left the show grinning, humming the songs in my head and tapping my foot silently on the train bound for the red-eye flight home. I may have left behind what little chance I had to see them up-close-and-personal in the US, but I was glad I’d made the financially unwise decision to see them halfway around the world. Plus, I’m sure they saw my sign from all the way up in the nosebleeds: “Vietnam Loves You!” — Karen Hewell

* * * TOP 100

Want to know the best places to eat or drink in this city? Here is our pick of the top 100 restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City. Feel we're missing something or have included the wrong places? Simply email editor@wordhcmc.com

THE PUNJABI

NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 3777 Don’t be duped by the veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Portions of both vegetarian and meat dishes are big, too.

VICKI’S

TEPPANYAKI & BBQ 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3232 vickis.com.vn This seven-floor restaurant is headed up by Thailand’s number one teppanyaki chef. The all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, preparing meat and seafood on traditional teppanyaki grills.

YU CHU

PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

Street Food BANH XEO 46A

BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1110 One of the best banh xeo — pork, beansprout and prawn pancakes served up with salad and fresh herbs — joints in town. No frills, outdoor, covered bench seating.

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, optional pate or eggs, all for well under VND100,000.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU

COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0935 comtamthuankieu.com.vn Downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery. Broken rice with barbecued pork, bitter gourd broth, stuffed squid etc. Average meal price just VND35,000. English menu.

PHO HOA

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 7943 Huge sized portions dished up at this famous restaurant serving Vietnam’s national dish. Choose from a range of cuts of beef, fresh herbs and spice to taste.

TAN HAI VAN

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0824

Bustling 24-hour restaurant offering the full range of Chinese fare, including dim sum, homemade noodle soup, rice and seafood dishes. Perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751 comgahainam.vn Few places do Hainanese-style chicken rice as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from chicken, sweet-roasted pork, roasted duck, and a range of other options.

Vegetarian PHAP HOA

VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3839 5893 Good vegetarian eatery with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with a range of faux meat dishes. The staff, though, are not know for their politeness.

SAIGON VEGAN

VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3834 4473 A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat specialising in hotpots. The vegan menu, however, runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, vietchay.vn Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received many plaudits for its setting, reverent ambiance and interesting menu which includes salted tofu in claypot and hundred flowers hotpot.

Vietnamese 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbecuing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer, all grilled at the table. Often packed to the brim.

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340 barbecuegarden.com A charming, leafy outdoor terrace

area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair.

CAFÉ IF

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

CUC GACH QUAN

Market, this pleasant Hue-style eatery is known for its excellent central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen, all at under VND50,000.

NHA HANG NGON

STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented Vietnamese eateries which serves up quality street food.

MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3848 0144 A converted French villa with mixed Indochine and rustic Vietnamese décor, the cuisine here is scrumptious, mixing street food dishes done well with quality ingredients and more contemporary options.

PAPAYA RESTAURANT

HIGHWAY 4

QUAN BUI

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the ChineseVietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 1330 Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — strips of grilled marinated beef, as well as its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

MAY RESTAURANT

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Dakao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 1277 Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 38 250261 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com Down an alley near Ben Thanh

PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 1508 Papaya is one of the city’s unsung gems. The cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap and portions are large. TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Imperial Hue cuisine mixing dark brown Indochine décor and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

XU RESTAURANT

MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com Elegant Xu is a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare includes pork wanton, seared beef crostini, and Xu-style chicken rice. Word tries to keep its listings as accurate as possible, but we can’t do this without yourself. So, if you see anything which needs updating or revising, please email us on listings@wordhcmc.com

[ BARS

]

* THE TOP * OF

* DROPS

Drink and be done by, or as the t-shirt tells us, khong say, khong ve. Our pick of the best drinking haunts in Ho Chi Minh City. Think we've missed somewhere? Email us on editor@wordhcmc.com

Bars & Restobars 107 Pasteur

MICROBREWERY / RESTOBAR 107 Pasteur, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8619 biatuoitiepvn.com After spending 30 years in the Czech Republic mastering the Gambrinus brewing technique, 107 Pasteur’s owner has returned to Vietnam to share his craft (and tasty Czech cuisine) with beer enthusiasts.

2 Lam Son

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wideranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

Acoustic

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

Alto Heli Bar

TOP-END LOUNGE BAR Floor 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 8752 altosaigon.com The jazzy, lightbox-lit space by the helipad in the city’s highest building is more than just great views. Top-end cocktails, a great tapas menu and a chilled ambience make up the mix.

Apocalypse Now

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, Apo draws in a not-so-healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals, who dance to Top 40 tunes on

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the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace. This is a pick-up joint in every sense of the word.

Banana Bar

SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

Bernie’s

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1720 berniesirishpub.com Bernie’s upstairs dining room and casual downstairs bar make a great place to indulge in international cuisine or chow down on a burger while watching a sports game or a live band.

Blanchy’s Tash

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 This popular downtown three-storied bar attracts late-night revelers thanks to its past midnight opening hours, regular DJ sets, and London-style bar décor. Has a great upstairs terrace.

Bootleg DJ Café

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

Boudoir Lounge

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1555 Boudoir’s sun-drenched conservatory, plush salon, old-timey cigar room and upscale library will please any lounge enthusiast. Features breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées, as well as International DJ sets on weekend nights.

Live music all days of week

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan st, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 3154 metallicbar.com Facebook: Metallic Bar Saigon Starting 20:30 to 24:00 hrs Established in 2003, Metallic showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered live by The Tornado, NiBiRu and other well-known, Vietnam-based Filipino bands, this is a place to enjoy the musical atmosphere and rock to the beat every day of the week, with the live music starting at 8.30pm and running until midnight.

Bread & Butter

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1720 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent Hue-Brewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

Carmen

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699 Named after the famous opera, Carmen has built its reputation on offering a mix of nightly live Latin music, most notably flamenco. Its striking design is a treat for the eyes as well.

Chill Skybar

LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE Floor 26 & 27, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5630 chillsaigon.com Chill’s view has only been improved by the addition of a magnificent VIP terrace. A substantial wine list and specialities from the owner’s native Denmark complement the primarily French-influenced cuisine.

Cloud 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951 The creators of Velvet present this trendy, double-tiered escape, complete with upstairs garden space, an extensive wine list, top shelf spirits and unobtrusive music.

Cunhouse

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 This hip marriage of living room-of-workingarchitects and opium den is populated with vintage furniture, records and a thoughtful, intimate vibe. Its only street-side markings are a few Chinese lanterns.

Go2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575 A slightly grungy corner joint banging out indie and pop tunes, Go2 draws in all walks of life at all hours. Whether you’re looking for affordable Thai / Vietnamese / western cuisine or late-night debauchery, Go2 delivers.

Broma

Godmother Bar

Buddha Bar

HappyHourSaigon.Com

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftop-cocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2080

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s. happyhoursaigon.com Want to take advantage of the city’s discount

drinking options? Looking for some Tiger Draft on the cheap or a two-hour freeflow to wet the juices? Check out this website for the what and where-for-all of all the happy hours in Ho Chi Minh City.

Hard Rock Cafe

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn If you’re craving for American food, classic cocktails, rock n’ roll memorabilia, and live music, Hard rock delivers all three in large doses. Stages regular events including ladies’ nights and stand-up comedy.

Hideaway

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 40/15 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 799962 With swings dangling playfully overhead, an expansive mural of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, multi-genre musical attractions, and famous western breakfasts and Mexican dishes, Hideaway awakens the senses and appeals to cosmopolitan sensibilities.

Ice Blue

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2664 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

Insomnia

cnr. Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9099 The Library captures the romance of a bygone era, offering a sophisticated snack menu and a nostalgic afternoon tea from 2.30 pm to 5pm. A great place to hang out in five-star luxury.

Long Phi

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

Mask Lounge

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Set on the main road, despite its location this lounge bar has one the best outdoor terraces in town. Lit up at night by fairy lights and with a lightbox-style bar, this is a great hangout for a glass of wine or five.

McSorley’s

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4659 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

MZ Club

LATE NIGHT RETRO 13B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1074 Plush couches, hookahs, soft lighting and artsy retro decoration, combined with affordable drinks, friendly staff, and the ability to request or play music makes this a great place to bring friends. Open Late.

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com Cover bands of the pop, jazz, rock, and Latin persuasion, flattering lighting, and ample choices of vintage wines make this crafty cocktail bar a destination for Saigon’s 30-plus Vietnamese / expat population.

La Habana

O’Brien’s

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub

décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

Outcast

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0908 208523 saigon.outcast@gmail.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / miniskate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

Pacharan

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multi-storey homage to everything Spanish. Regular firstfloor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

Peaches

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.

Phatty’s

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

Rockfanclub Bar

ROCK BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08) 6290 7489

La Fenetre Soleil

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

Last Call

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

Le Pub

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 lepub.org Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

Level 23 Nightspot

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 23rd floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city make this a choice venue for enjoying live performances from the international house band. Expect a bit of everything from jazz to R&B, with five-star prices to match.

The Library

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon,

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{t he Coffee Cup} ** Era Café * *

Photo by Francis Xavier

aigon is full of clean, well-lit coffee shops serving pastel-coloured drinks at affordable prices, to cheerful young people. They are usually located near high schools or universities and decorated tastefully. They seem like happy places. I wouldn’t know, because I’ve never been inside one. I prefer to get my caffeine fix in a different type of setting. Because I’m a pragmatic man, the setting is usually the sidewalk. While that’s mostly out of convenience, there is a democratic aspect to drinking coffee on the plastic stools. Drinking a tall glass of sugary black syrup served by a middleaged woman in colourful pyjamas is as Saigonese as a

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traffic jam. Everybody does it, it’s delicious and cheap. Sidewalk coffee is the best. Sometimes though, it’s the middle of the afternoon, the sun is shirt-soakingly oppressive and I feel a strong animal desire to retreat into a cool, dark place and remain stationary. Whenever I feel the stirrings of this strange reptilian instinct, I get to Era Café as fast as possible.

Birth of the Cool Era Café doesn’t look like much from the outside. The storefront is just a dark window under a blue tarp awning. No name, no lights, no drink specials written on a chalkboard on the sidewalk. If it weren’t for the line of motorbikes stretching off to the left of the door, it would look

like an abandoned storefront. Stepping inside is slightly disorienting. The high-speed, high-contrast whir and din of Saigon street life is instantly muted and dimmed. The A/C is always cranked — walking in is like diving into a swimming pool on a hot day. The cafe’s single small room is almost completely dark, lit only by the window and a few hanging lamps and candles planted in tin cans on each table. The eyes take a second to adjust. The walls are hung with landscape paintings nearly invisible in the dark and the furniture is all upholstered in leather in a way that reminds me of old cars and dive bars. By the time you sink into your chair, the heat of the Saigon afternoon suddenly seems very far away.

The ca phe da (VND36,000) is served almost without sugar in a rocks glass. If it’s later in the afternoon or you’ve had a stressful morning, the waitress will add a generous pour of Jim Beam or Kahlua to your glass for an extra VND40,000. The soundtrack is always jazz standards on piano or trumpet, and the smell is 25 years of consecutively-smoked cigarettes. Era Café is neither particularly clean nor well-lit, but sometimes, when you’re looking for a way to escape the urban heat, you just need a cool hole to crawl into. If that appeals, head to the intersection of Tran Quoc Thao and Dien Bien Phu and look for the blue awning. — Evan Hudson Era Café is at 58C Tran Quoc Thao, Q3

The promoters of Rockfanclub (the long-running Vietnamese hard rock and metal night formerly hosted at Tadao Coffee Bar) have found a home for fans to mosh in every night from 9pm. This is rock in its rawest, most grass roots Vietnamese form.

Saigon Saigon

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Live Latin music in its various forms is this fan-cooled, Old Saigon-style bar’s main attraction. With the international bands performing nightly, Saigon Saigon also benefits from great views, polished service and a vibrant ambience.

Seventeen Saloon

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West, and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2, and Guns n’ Roses. Top-shelf spirits and friendly, hostessstyle table service are the name of the game here.

Spotted Cow

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that

its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

Storm P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its wall-length mural of Copenhagen attracts a variety of patrons and provides them with a wellstocked bar and extremely tasty Danish-influenced pub grub.

The Tavern

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

Thi Café

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929 It’s a well-worn Saturday night path that starts at Thi Café, where Saigon’s better funk and rock cover bands can be danced to downstairs or listened to from the underutilized upstairs lounge. A Backpackers’ Area mainstay.

T&R Tavern

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1 T&R is a popular setting for late night fun and questionable decisions. The bar’s laptop allows patrons to choose their own soundtrack to a pool / darts game, danceoff, or…whatever else they’re doing.

Universal Bar

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com Just up from Bui Vien’s street beer nexus is Universal, a live music and sports-watching venue with an outdoor seating area that lets you take in the action from a more comfortable perspective.

by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

Nightclubs Fuse

Vasco’s

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 2888 A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com Neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese crowd. A small space means this place gets packed quickly, so arrive early to enjoy bumping techno, whisky and fruit platters.

Vino

Lush

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 6299 1315 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2496 Overseas DJ’s, Tuesday night ladies’ nights and cosmopolitan clientele converge in the red-velvet and cartoon-styled interior that makes Lush one of the city’s iconic clubs.

Velvet

DANCE/HIP HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com You will be hard-pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and über trendy in Saigon. Packed with socialites, celebrities, and fashionistas, Velvet’s the place to see and be seen in this city.

Tryst Lounge

1st Floor, Gemadept Tower, 6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 1637 trystlounge@ddds.vn Specialising in French and Vietnamese cuisine cooked up by an experienced chef, Tryst Lounge serves up its tasty fare at all times of the day, making it a venue for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Complemented by healthy mixed juices, Illy coffee, creative cocktails and a good selection of wines at affordable prices, the space has a chilled atmosphere, and is great for hanging out both indoors and on the outdoor terrace. Has live acoustic and Latino music every weekend courtesy of well-known Cuban outfit Warapo.

Wine Bar 38

38 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 3968

With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

Wine Embassy

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 0902 810523 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

Quan Nhau Anh Duc’s

QUAN NHAU 18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 This plastic-chair establishment is the effective living room of the room-renting expats in the alley surrounding, featuring cold beer, easy conversation and a friendswith-everyone proprietor.

Bia Tuoi 33

BIA HOI 102 Bui Vien, Q1 Beloved for its cheap, cold beer, prime people-watching, and elderly but toughas-nails hostess, Bia Hoi or “Grandma’s” is a favourite of locals, expats, and backpackers alike.

CAFES[ ] COFFEE *

CUP

If there's any industry where Saigon excels, it's the industry that is all things coffee. Here is our list of some of the best places to drink coffee, tea and everything else non-alcoholic in this city.

Cafes Agnes Cafe

Dalat Coffee & Flower Shop 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 9772 agnescafe@agnescoffee.vn A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offer a western-fare breakfast menu with a traditional egg breakfast sandwich, homemade breakfast burritos and more from 7am-11am.

An’s Interior Café

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: (08) 3823 3398 anscafe.com Eat, drink, and buy furniture at this beautifully designed café located down alleyway 38. Doubling as an interior design showroom, customers are invited to lounge with their coffees and browse simultaneously.

Au Parc

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

Bobby Brewer’s

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fastfood style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge. Check website for movie locations and schedule.

Bong Den Café

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 118/11 Tran Quang Dieu Street, Q3 Tel: 0903 736313 A small, simply designed café tucked down a small alley away from the noisy outside world. Enjoy acoustic music shows on the weekend and drinks starting at VND22,000.

Cacophony

LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: (08) 3932 2797 cacophonycafe.com Set in a three-storey colonial villa, this cafe devotes a unique stylistic sound and decor to each floor, with the ground level dedicated to live music five nights a week.

Café Dat

VIETNAMESE 343/17 To Hien Thanh, Q10 Tel: (08) 3863 2832 A unique, rustic décor travels through this spacious cafe, from its garden to terrace to their cozy indoor seating. Bamboo, streams, and lush plants create a serene atmosphere.

Café Me

CASUAL CAFE 8A Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3926 2828 This picturesque coffeehouse is full of charm, providing a quiet location to relax or read from their ‘Borrow-A-Book Nook’. A perfect blend of coffee and creativity.

MIDDLE EASTERN Alley no. 59, Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 8382 4130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

Centro

ITALIAN 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

Chicco Dicaff Café

CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ BAR 213 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 0902 514757 An up and coming hole-inthe-wall cafe, Chicco Dicaff serves an extensive menu of coffee, ice blended drinks, lattes and Italian sodas at affordable prices. Delivery available.

Café Park Bach Dang VIETNAMESE 10B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In contrast to its trendy, stylish café neighbours, the basic outdoor seating and affordable menu makes for a modest, less pretentious experience with drinks around VND15,000.

Café Screen Golf

SPORTS CAFE 384/1B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3526 8480 Three-screen indoor rooms, one putting room, and an area for food and drink set this café apart. Play for VND400,000 per hour or hang out and watch others.

Café Song Me

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 125/3 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: (08) 3865 2075 Secluded and difficult to find, Song Me is a perfect chill out spot to sit surrounded by water and lush plants or opt for indoor sofa seating. Drinks reasonably priced.

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130 | Word June 2013

Casbah

Chuong Gio Café

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 386/5i Le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: (08) 2212 8560 Explore the interesting artwork or listen to beautiful melodies as you escape for an hour in this warm, cozy café that doubles as a music and theatre venue.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3508 7825 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

Creperie and Café

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it's fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and sa-

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voury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

DeciBel

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

Gac Hoa (Attic) Café

INTERNATIONAL 92/17 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3507 1418 A unique theme and decor secluded from the city bustle create a warm space that values both art appreciation and coffee love, with drinks starting at VND30,000.

Givral Café

INTERNATIONAL 169 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8659 In typical French fashion with fresh pastries, groomed waiters, and elaborate portions of ice cream, Givral is located opposite Continental Hotel Saigon, offering prime city viewing but higher prices.

Gloria Jean’s

INTERNATIONAL 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn International coffee chain found throughout the city. It may not provide an authentic Vietnamese experience but it does offer comfortable seating and killer ice blended chillers to help beat the heat.

Hideaway

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

Highlands Coffee

INTERNATIONAL Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5689 The flagship store of this upscale, somewhat pricey, coffeehouse offers westernstyle and local-style brews, with other branches also

found in prime locations around the tourist area. Cappuccinos and a mediocre café experience costs above VND30,000. But the Wifi is good.

Himiko Visual Café

CAFE/ART GALLERY 324bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3888 1908 Renowned for its appreciation of art, Himiko is a hybrid of café and art gallery. Regularly displaying the work of young artists, an atmosphere unlike many others flourishes here.

i.d. Café

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

I’m Yours

MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan This tiny café pairs nightly live music with a warmcoloured, rustic decor. The combination of young Saigon artists and striking wall decor makes it worthy of the crowd it draws in.

Kita Coffee

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com Kita's colonial-era building and bistro-style decor will have you thinking you've been transported to the streets of Europe. Pair your experience with an espresso-based Italian coffee from their Mediterranean-based menu. Excellent sandwiches and salads.

warm, luxurious design in this romantic French-style café. Menus change daily but the friendly staff ensures customer satisfaction.

L’Usine

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 3565 70B Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L'Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back.

MonPERE Café

FRENCH 5H Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0458 This charming, mid-range café is filled with vintage decorations and architecture from the French colonial era. Live piano performances add a touch of romance on Wednesday and Saturday at 5pm.

Nostalgie Club

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 54 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3274 Unveil culture and admire old architecture and antiques in this villa converted into a café. Live drama Thursday evenings in the first floor cafe. Drinks start at VND30,000.

Operation: Tearoom

TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

L’An Mien Dining Cafe

Petite Note

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

MUSIC CAFE 351/4A Le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: (08) 3931 6312 In a jungle of a place where vines wrap round stairwells, an all American playlist meets a typical Vietnamese menu. A living-room style music cafe with live piano on weekends.

La Maison Café and Galley

Princess AND the Pea

CAFE / GALLERY 163 Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan Inside this striking white house is a space devoted for art enthusiasts and cafégoers alike. Browse the arts and impressive decorations and enjoy homemade milk and cakes.

Le Petit Café

FRENCH 189 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: (08) 3827 7868 A small space is met with a

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 63/18 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 9070 3159 Venture through an alley and up three floors to this unique, relaxed cafe. Casual, cushioned floor seating and a simple, sensibly priced menu. Music on Wednesday and Friday evenings.

The Print Room

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordhcmc.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

Stella Caffe

ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9220 stellacaffe.com This pleasant, mid-range venue, best known for its coffee, offers some of the best lattes and cappuccinos in town. Choose from indoor and outdoor spaces as well as upstairs dining.

The Fig & Lounge to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

Soho Coffee Lounge

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 185 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 5038 soho.vn Spreading to four cafes in town, comfortable sofa-style seating with surprisingly cheap coffee and good WiFi makes Soho Coffee Lounge convenient to work, eat, rest, or play.

Slow Time Café

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 53/56 Tran Khanh Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 714525 Boasting a cozy space in a quaint wooden house, Slow Time is a simple, peaceful café serving reasonably priced Vietnamese cuisine and a range of café drinks.

CAFE & RESTAURANT 11 Nguyen Thi Huynh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2211 3544 VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL Positioned cozily down an alley in this less travelled part of town, The Fig's earthy, eco-friendly vibe is a gem that combines Vietnamese, Thai, and western cuisines tastefully, at prices between VND100,000 and VND300,000 a dish.

Tram Café

VIETNAMESE 100 Tran Huy Lieu, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2240 5306 Tram Café combines modern and classic design creating an artistic harmony between earth and heaven that won't break your wallet. A sanctuary of nature awaits you.

Trung Nguyen

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn One of a growing number of downtown locations of the ever-expanding international homegrown brand,

this pleasant two-storey café produces and serves their own coffee in distinct Vietnamese-styles in a comfortable, sophisticated atmosphere.

Up Cafe

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3845 2155 A unique cafe with whole sets of upside down furniture and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up offers cafe drinks, cocktails, and simple Vietnamese cuisine.

Yesterday Piano Café

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 28 Ho Bieu Chanh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3505 2727 Turn back the clock in this vintage café. Embrace your nostalgia with their blackand-white photos as you indulge in a reasonably priced menu. Music Tuesday to Sunday evenings.

Zest Bistro & Café

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows. The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

June 2013 Word | 131

{ night Watchman } ** The Short Life and Lonesome Death of Hello! Jell-O * *

Images by Nguyen Hoang Tuong Van

t was early on in 2012 — a time of limitless optimism, at least in my little corner of the world. Two months into my Vietnam tenure, I was healing up from my introductory motorbike injury (“Welcome to Saigon!” was something I heard more than once) and discovering the wonderfully connected nightlife world beyond the plastic chairs of Bui Vien. On this one particular January night, I was feeling brave enough to show my puffy face on an apartment rooftop off Co Bac, when I met Luke, a clever importexport type who told me about a whole world beyond the ESL classroom. A month had passed since my hellish CELTA course finished up, and I wasn’t ready to return to the classroom yet. I went back to the Thao Dien poolhouse I was sharing with my eventual roommates, eyes ablaze with possibility. In the pool that night, enthusiasm partner Ellen and I talked sh_t. “Did you know,” Ellen told me, “the mangosteen is called the ‘Queen of Fruits’ because it’s so hard to transport that Queen Victoria offered knighthood to anyone who could successfully transport it to England?” I did not know.

132 | Word June 2013

The Birth of a Dream We schemed our way through some fun ideas, like mangosteen preserves (a solid idea for Vietnam’s underexploited mangosteen population, btw!) before coming back to a basic truth — do what you know. And during this portion of our lives, we knew drinking pretty well. We plied the Bui Vien corridor most weekends, starting at Thi Café, hitting some street beers, ending up at T&R Tavern by hook or crook. We were nearing the ends of our first three-month visas, and starting to feel pretty jaded. Kicking around some Vodka Hanoi one night, we got the idea. How well would vodka jellies (Jell-O shots) sell on the strip? Pretty damn well, we concluded.

The Agar Conundrum We dosed Annam-bought Jell-O and Hartley’s fruit jellies, even trying Coopmart for the local versions. I prepped a bit of pandan-flavoured agar, which I ended up tossing. We went back to strawberry. Those were heady, jobless days, as we tongue-and-cheeked our business plan to friends on late night escapades. We thought of a clever, catchy name — Hello! Jell-O.

We would enlist some jelly girls, make up gourmet shots like salt-rimmed margaritas and mint-flecked mojitos, sell it all off the back of a bike stocked with plastic stools and a boombox. We’d link up with a Bui Vien storefront closed at night to give us a home base, get the clean nostalgic logo circulated in clever ways, and did I mention the jelly girls? Our lawyer friend Hien gave us some free legal and our friend Van mocked up a brand image kit. All that was left for us to do was to actually do. We pushed it off further and further, and eventually stopped talking about it.

The Aftermath I went to Nepal and Ellen started teaching more hours. Everyone else was pretty ok with saying ‘goodbye Jell-O’. When I came back and started hitting the bars again with Ellen, we didn’t bitch as much about the lack of selection. And still, when the night gets to that special hour, mixing up discontent and dreaminess in my brain, I sometimes think about what could have been, and dream a little scheme of easily-consumed gelatinous products. — Ed Weinberg

ARTS

************

From our columns - For the Record, In the Frame and Decks ‘n Drums - to our listings, arts-wise this city’s going from strength to creative strength

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordhcmc.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

Cinebox

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

Lotte Cinema

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

Galaxy Cinema

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

Megastar Cinema

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

Arts Classes HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com This French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques, and more advanced artists how to release creativity.

THE TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHERS WORKSHOP

pstuckings@gmail.com; mark@driftphototours.com Peter Stuckings and Mark Stennett are professional travel photographers based in Ho Chi Minh City who offer workshops and tours to help you improve your photography skills.

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP

Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A creative group inviting new members every second Tuesday for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire. All levels are welcome from beginners to the more experienced.

VIN SPACE

4 Le Van Mien, Q2 Tel: 0983 377710 shyevin.com Vin’s Space is an intimate, light-filled space that offers artists a quiet space to work individually or share ideas. Weekly classes include oil painting, drawing and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

Books & Magazines ARTBOOK

43 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3502 1559 artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. The stock covers art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping.

FAHASA

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5796 fahasasg.com.vn Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is

one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English, French, Chinese and Vietnamese.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG 94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7859 Set in a mixed-colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallic-run bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC)

2A Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9650 pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam. Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction and non-fiction books as well as over 2,000 English language titles.

SAHABOOK

175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 6599 sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, they also stock non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, coin collections and travel fiction.

Galleries BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com Built in the 1920s by a wellknown local businessman, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Arts Center is an attraction in itself. Inside, Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878317 (Ms. Mai) cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its

founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

DUC MINH GALLERY

31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: (08) 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock-colonial mansion constitutes the private art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to the astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON

324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10, Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) himikokoro.com A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes. Open for five years, this cafecum-gallery has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things including Himiko herself.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4441 Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts what is possibly the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement.

SAIGON GALLERY OF FINE ART

Floors 2 and 3, 9 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 6570 Founded in 1999 with the objective of promoting contemporary Vietnamese art, the gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website.

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 1366; 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3181 phuongmaigallery.com

Established in 2004, these two galleries feature works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu. An eclectic range of styles is exhibited, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism.

SAN ART

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0898 san–art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY

53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 0966 tudogallery.com Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists.

ZEROSTATION

288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and longterm art projects managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy.

Performing Arts HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA

The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7419 hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Depending on the show, tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC

112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre holds classic piano recitals and orchestral performances,

and is closely connected to performance groups in the city. There are two concert rooms with two performances weekly.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY

Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn hcmcchoir.com This 40–voice choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3.

SAIGON PLAYERS

saigonplayers@gmail.com saigonplayers.com Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights every first Wednesday of the month and script nights every third Wednesday.

Production Houses CREA TV

339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3823 7434 crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisation and permits, art department work, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS

91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10, Tel: 0908 477079 factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films has developed content worldwide for documentary, web and TV, with experience in all stages of production from development through to post-production and delivery

Word tries to keep its listings as accurate as possible, but we can’t do this without yourself. So, if you see anything which needs updating or revising, please email us on listings@wordhcmc.com

June 2013 Word | 133

{F O R The Record} ** True North — Bad Religion * *

LEISURE Time to release all that pent up energy - it’s not all work and propping up the bar, you know. Here are some ideas for better ways to spend that free time

Amusement DAI NAM THEME PARK

or much of the past few decades, Bad Religion has remained the California Punk scene’s moral compass. After 34 years of rocking the stage, could they have anything left for new — or old — audiences to perk up their ears and pay attention to? True North is Bad Religion’s sixteenth studio album and brings the same intense rolling bass lines and grippingly smooth verses that have become staples over their last four albums. Kicking off with the title track True North, the SoCal veterans pull out their classic chunking palm mutes and choral melodies. True North is a solid and familiar offering that may be a treat to the longtime fan, but routine and seemingly underdeveloped to the newly initiated. Moving forward on the 16-track record, you’ll be instantly grabbed by the punchy, in-your-face lyrics of the appropriately titled F_ck You. The group pushes their more melodic chord progressions against the gritty backbeats and crunchy distorted tones on this track. This is easily the smokiest the record gets, and as you get to the middle of the album, the heavily overdriven guitar and blazing lead solos should sizzle your remaining ear cells. Slowing it down and moving the listener from classic pogodancey romps to ride-heavy fist pumping, Bad Religion drops In Their Heart is Right in the middle of the album, securing a pivot point on the record and swinging the mood,

134 | Word June 2013

interestingly, positive. Heading towards the end of the album it begins to be difficult to draw a line through these songs and tie it all together. Pulling the line tight, the release’s final track Changing Tides puts a bucket of water on smouldering ash. The positive sendoff is a testament to a rock-and-roll career that has spanned many generations. The song leaves you off with how many people could describe Bad Religion; a ringing, slowly ascending rollercoaster, bound for a precipice, only to stop when the ringing has ceased. Like stamping out a lit cigarette, this album fumes until it’s abruptly and intentionally snuffed out. Music has always been reactionary, but in rockand-roll’s comparatively short history, waves come to renew the sand daily. If this is the final packaging that Bad Religion will be giving out, they end their tumultuous career on their terms, playing punk rock that hasn’t lost the mandate they began with. — Seamus Butler

True North — Bad Religion

Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 3845845 laccanhdainamvanhien.vn This huge amusement park is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. A bus ride from Ho Chi Minh City gives you access to some amazing rides, a water-park and one of the better zoos in Vietnam. Located 45km away on Highway 13, just after Thu Dau Mot.

LASER TAG

5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun, ready for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDENS

2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3728 saigonzoo.net Dating from 1875, Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens has a vast collection of rare orchids and ornamental plants, and a collection of over one hundred species of animals.

Clubs & Societies INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM

ilvietnam.com This long–established social organization offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings (Thursdays at 10am) and

participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Please see website for details.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9000 parklandvn.com The Parkland Country Club offers a wide range of activities on its extensive facilities including supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, tennis courts, squash courts, pools, spa and a gym.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonatownclub.com This Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide sanctuary from the busy streets below. Facilities include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi. Members can enjoy alfresco dining at the ‘Coco Cabana’.

Cooking OVERLAND CLUB

36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com

Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy for persons of any ability. An introduction to traditional Vietnamese kitchen utensils is an added bonus.

Dancing DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2; The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung; Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio.

LATIN STREET DANCE

Geisha's Coffee and Tea House, 2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1 fred@salsaigon.com Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday. No partners needed, just buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to this studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”. Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS

saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday.

Fitness AIS SPORTS CENTRE

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) aissportscentre.com With a pool, astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay fit. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

Amaryska Kamionko

Tel: 0902 271830 personalfitnessathome. blogspot.com A private fitness trainer assisting with strength training, weight loss and allover body toning to obtain positive lifestyle habits and stronger bodies for females. Sessions take place at clients’ homes and generally last one hour. Group workouts or one on one. Email akamionko@hotmail.com for details.

Aquafit

Tel. 0909 008985 aquafit.vn Aquabiking classes help you strengthen and sculpt your body fast while keeping it safe for your joints and refreshing, thanks to the benefits of water. Suitable for all condition levels.

Body Expert Systems

Tel: (09) 3478 2763 bodyexpertsystems.com Do you have limited time? Not seeing results? BES’s online software and memberships offer affordable and powerful tools to achieve fantastic fat loss, fitness improvement and overall wellbeing — anywhere. Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordhcmc.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

Queen Ann Building, 28– 30–32 Le Lai, Q1; 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: (08) 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring modern equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes like Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance and Body Combat.

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA

19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool.

C Y R I L A N D YO U SPORTS CENTER

49 A Xa Lo Hanoi, Q2 Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril Terrones, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes Zumba, salsa, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10.

DIAMOND CLUB

H E A LT H

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found above this leading department store.

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR

Tel: (09) 8378 9318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise and nutrition programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 k1-factory.com K1 offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA, kid’s martial art classes and private fitness and conditioning. Open to everyone from kids to adults, beginners to professionals.

KiwiFitness

Tel: (09) 3478 2763 phil-kelly.com Kiwifitness provides quality,

accurate, professional and effective fitness and health services to enrich people’s lives.

LA COCHINCHINE

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1812 lacochinchine.net A colonial–themed gym in a large, open–plan space, situated on top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: (08) 3932 5181 lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Tae Bo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room.

NTFQ2

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

PAUL SIMOS

Tel: 01286 305982 paulsimos.com Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them.

PATRICK NGUYEN

Tel: 0938 156865 corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. There’s also a good place to take time out, by the poolside bar.

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4000 saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam

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{ body and Temple} ** Chemical Overload * * Is red meat really all that bad for you? Words by Phil Kelly

ocieties’ unrepentant technological advancements have their benefits — no argument there. However, the side effects are showing up in our bodies and making us sick. Who would suspect that everyday plastics, cleaning, medical and beauty products would be made in such a way as to leak toxic chemicals into your body? You can be exposed to these chemicals through air, water, food or skin contact. You should look out for and try to eliminate contact with products containing PCBs (polychlorinated biphenals), DBPs (Dibutyl phthalate), DEPs (Diethyl phthalate), DEHPs (Diethylhexyl phthalate), BzBPs (benzylbutyl phthlate) and DMPs (Dimethyl phthalate) in the ingredients. According to the Environmental Working Group, by the time the average woman is ready to leave the house in the morning, she has exposed herself to 126 chemical toxins from shampoo, body wash, lotion, cosmetics and the worst offender of all — fragrance. A load of research is now surfacing regarding the prevalence of these toxins in our society. According to Environment California, “in 2003, the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention confirmed

136 | Word June 2013

widespread contamination with the largest and most extensive US survey of human chemical contamination to date, finding phthalates in virtually every person tested and the highest levels in children and women of reproductive age”. These chemicals upset the body’s hormonal balance and overload our detoxification processes. The human body, when overwhelmed with toxins, will ‘dump’ many toxic substances within the fat stores in order to reduce their circulation throughout the body. When there are no longer toxins entering the body, those stored toxins will then be processed and expelled along with the fat that is storing them. When your body no longer has to produce chemical reactions against a background of toxic ‘static’ you will find that you are able to extract a greater amount of nutrients from the foods you eat and eliminate the toxins from your body. Below are some simple Body Expert Systems actions for dealing with pollution and chemical overload: Detox regularly: Support your natural detoxification and biochemical processes by eating foods and drinking beverages

that assist and promote the instinctive systems of the body that eliminate toxins. Increase antioxidant profile: The stronger your immune system, the easier it is to develop and maintain energy levels and health. Eat grass-fed and free range produce: Consume the best quality food available to you. Ideally organic and/or wild produce. Improve your liver function — eat and drink green: Matcha Green Tea is a great addition to your diet for improving liver function. Research shows that one glass of Matcha is the equivalent of 10 glasses of brewed green tea in terms of its nutritional value and antioxidant content. These antioxidants are well known to combat oxidative stress all over the body. Use natural cleaning and personal products: Chemical cleaners and personal care products contain toxins and estrogenmimicking compounds. Opt for plantbased cleaners. Don’t trust it just because it says “green” or “natural” on the label. Check ingredients. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR

Tel: 01225 811080 sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano also offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1555 At this small but well– equipped gym the equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

STEPHANE LAPORTE, FITNESS COACH

Tel: 0908 897604 personaltrainers.asia Stephane Laporte is a certified personal trainer and sports massage therapist. Programmes include pre/ post-race preparation and therapy, triathlon coaching, corrective and functional exercises, weight loss/gain, TRX, Kettlebells, Capoeira and more.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: (08) 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking the Crescent complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

THE LANDMARK CLUB

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh

Tel: (08) 3514 9009 saigonriverclub.com This gym is equipped with advanced equipment, cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, sauna and steam rooms, plus studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with jacuzzi.

Basketball PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB

8 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

Cricket SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali Tel: 0937 079034 npasifali@hotmail.com

Football and Rugby AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 Tel: 0937 683230 vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play international footy matches around Asia. Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age or ability, all are invited to become an active part of the club.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 Weekends The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations — Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka — plus a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club. New recruits are welcome.

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent.

Manish Sogani Tel: 0908 200598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@marketedge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill Tel: 01228 770038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta Tel: 0986 973244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)

Samie Cashmiri Tel: 0976 469090 samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure Tel: 0903 998824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit Tel: 0988 571010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

Want to know what’s going on in this city? Go to

Contact Fred on 0919 709024 or Viet Luu 0909 500171. astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years.

SAIGON RAIDERS

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com The Saigon Geckos play social touch rugby and also welcome men and women to join and enjoy drinks afterwards. There are regular tours of the region, as well as games with visiting teams. Beginners welcome.

SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

Golf LADIES’ FIRST GOLF

ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

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Time to release all that pent up energy - it’s not all work and propping up the bar, you know. Here are some ideas for better ways to spend that free time

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 2001 Visitors’ fees are around VND500,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course. 40 percent discount on Wednesdays. On the driving range, 50 balls cost under VND60,000. Equipment hire available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT

77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756660 songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Long Thanh My Village, Q9 Tel: (08) 6280 0101 vietnamgolfcc.com This facility just off Highway 1 has two courses. Both 18– hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

Miscellaneous CAPOEIRA

25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail. com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance.

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long–established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Walking trails offered. Depart from the Caravelle Hotel on Sundays at 2pm.

RAINBOW DIVERS

Buddha Bar, 7 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0913 408146 divevietnam.com Diving courses and trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 international members.

Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts league, which runs a highly competitive competition for a growing number of pub– based teams.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball. Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

saigonshootersnetball@ gmail.com A friendly mixed netball league, running on Monday nights, is open to both men and women from the ages of eight and up (including an adult competition).

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the courts. Private instruction is available for new players or those without a partner. Racquet rental with balls inclusive. Book in advance.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

James: 0938 889899 Rina: rinabakher@yahoo. com. Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to midday. Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James or Rina.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 0909 458890 / 0903 042014 saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and

Want to know what’s going on in this city? Go to

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everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 4pm to 5.30pm.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

74 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 6210 9192 xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 3, with an additional location in District 2.

Tennis KY HOA II

796 Su Van Hanh, Q10 Tel: (08) 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH TENNIS COURT

291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club. You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour. There is also equipment for hire.

Vietnamese Lessons PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES

Tel: 0908 604753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

Vietnamese Language Garden

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670771 vietnameselanguagegarden. com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalized, one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern

wordhcmc.com

and southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities.

a specifically designed softfloored studio.

SAIGON YOGA VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified / Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

Yoga & Meditation Anupa Yoga

9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2394 www.anupa.net/yoga-anupa At anupa's private studio, we offer classes to individuals or small groups. The primary focus is to support students who want to regularly practise traditional yoga. For information contact us via email support@ anupa.net or phone.

DR. SHIVA

shivaprakashyoga@yahoo. com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City in different locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. Yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA

Tel: 0909 648193 michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE

Tel: 01286 305982 myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon Pearl’s luxury, stateof-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week with experienced practitioners at varied times in

Tel: 0908 352265 saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a Yoga Alliance ‘Experienced Instructor’. Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats and Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO

54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3848 5347 shriyogavietnam.com modern yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available. Classes are bilingual with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0255 starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym. Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non–member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE

84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 5813 soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in highquality yoga training, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and more with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products.

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP

saigon-gompa.org Meditation group specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE

Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com. vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretary-general

of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and nonVietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOUR

33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2 Lotus Road 28, Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 0903 873599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailoredmade relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE

Tel: 01266 626467 daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING

Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735833 (Thuy) yogaliving.com.vn Conducts over 150 commercial and private classes a month and offers a variety of classes. A larger second studio provides a great space for yoga workshops, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

YMC — YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER

335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3929 1707 ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes in different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordhcmc.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

WELLNESS From alternative medicine through to have that long sought-after nose-job and that once-a-year medical check, here are some the wellness options available in town

Alternative Medicine AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 6667 vietnamchiropractic.com A clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by Americantrained chiropractic physicians and an Americaneducated doctor of physical therapy. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, and sports injury rehabilitation.

CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT

Family Medical Practice Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice.com saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with a Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Viet-

nam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation.

Dr. Astrid Matarrita PsyD.

Psychologist and Counsellor Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 01218 263167 astridmatarrita@yahoo.com Certified psychologist specialized in dynamic therapy focusing on improving emotional health and positive behavior. Personalised process design to help people suffering from emotional distress. Children and adults. English and Spanish.

GREGORY BEALE

2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: 01268 654202 gregbealetherapyfitness.com American-trained and nationally certified massage therapist and National Academy of Sports Medicine certified

personal trainer offering orthopedic manual therapy, corrective exercise and orthopedic massage, focusing on pain management well as injury rehab/prevention.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7 Tel: 0906 684969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, plus treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE 273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: (08) 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital

and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy — the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY — DAVID TRUONG TAN

Tel: 0903 098124 osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN

Tel: 0937 442 516 sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu.

Home visits available.

THETA HEALING

Tel: 0918 591933 thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK-qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: 0903 873599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture which involves combining the energy of colour

and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for a variety of problems such as joint pain, stress, sleep issues, among others.

Cosmetic Surgery AMERICAN EYE CENTER VIETNAM

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn. com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease

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From alternative medicine through to have that long sought-after nose-job and that once-a-year medical check, here are some the wellness options available in town

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fvhospital.com This modern international– standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, with expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: (08) 3923 8435 cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern hospital. With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, himyopia treatment, Botox and other cosmetic procedures.

DR. TU’S Clinic

290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 7685 bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound–based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions. The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

EXM Esthetic Mediplex

MD6, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: (08) 5410 0100 exm.com.vn EXM Clinic is a high tech skincare and dental cosmetic center that specialises in beauty enhancement. EXM is founded by the same people behind SIAN Skincare Laser and Westcoast International Dental Clinics.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 3366

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3932 1090 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

Counselling SMILE DENTAL

173 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phong Ward, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com 9am to 12pm, 2pm to 6.30pm (Mon, Tue, Fri, Sat); 2pm to 6.30pm (Thurs); 9am to 12pm (Sun); Closed Wednesdays A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open MonSat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

WE Link

64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

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FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 3435 fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 8520 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

Dental ACCADENT

Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

Hairdressers

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY

Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon. com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal.

ART HAIR

37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: (08) 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

COLOR HAUS

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7700 colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you.

CONCEPT COIFFURE

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

JASMINE

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes

and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP

119 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7700 SD-11,Panorama Phu My Hung, Tan Phong, Q7 Tel: (08) 5413 3300 kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this outlet provides treatments, from a simple wash and blow-dry from a student to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist supervised by qualified instructors.

LASH SNOB

Lash Lounge, Q7 Tel: 01205 100583 www.lashsnob.com Originating in Canada, Lash Snob has just recently opened another luxury lash lounge in District 7. We specialize in silk lash extensions and use only the highest-grade glue that has been approved by Health Canada. Each individual silk lash is properly and precisely applied to your natural lash, and lasts anywhere from 4 to 6 weeks. No need for mascara! You too, will leave as a Lash Snob. Make-up application also available. Book your appointment today.

THE SALON

21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 6394 From the same chain as His

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Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

VENUS

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look.

YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy, YKC Hair Studio attracts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the welltrained staff and friendly English-speaking environment. Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used.

Medical AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS 273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10 Tel: (08) 3834 9941 australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health–checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in– house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: (08) 3923 8435 cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year. English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals, and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International.

CARE 1

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0757 care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)

1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gyne-

cology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 8888 Well–established and well– regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with international and Vietnamese doctors on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out–patient care, check– ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

HUMAN MEDICINE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

601B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: (08) 3977 8130 humanmedicineclinic.com Mottoed “Building Stem Cell bridges for everyone”, HMIC comprises a medical clinic and associated pathology laboratory with Applied Research Center of Regenerate medicine.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI)

1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 8520 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3932 1090 stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

SMOOTH

G20-022, Rd. 6 Hung Vuong 1, Q7 Tel: (08) 5414 8008 smoothwaxworks.com This modern salon provides waxing, nail art and manipedis to both women and men. Smooth aims to satisfy your cravings for luscious lacquer, silky smooth skin, happy hands and fab feet.

Spa AQUA DAY SPA

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

CAT MOC SPA

61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.

FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3521 0599 famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN

40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services, offers massages for the tired executive. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 1218 lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages, facials, sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing. Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7188 indochine-spa.com Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur Street, Q1 Tel: (08) 6299 0563 mekongblissspa.com 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm) Mekong Bliss Spa is a top place to enjoy authentic Vietnamese spa treatments. As well as offering an impressive array of services, part of the proceeds help disadvantaged youth in the Mekong Delta.

Q SPA & SALON

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3905 4609 An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage. Also offers hair styling and facials.

QING SPA

Salons

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INDOCHINE SPA

Miu Miu Foot & Spa

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6659 3609 2B Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6680 5652 www.miumiuspa.com 10am to 11:30pm (Last booking 10:30pm) Located in the city centre, and standing for “Nyanya” (or “cry of the kitten”), Miu Miu is an elegant and serene Japanese spa offering various body, facial and foot massages, as well as several nail treatments including manicures, polish and design, and scrubs. Massages range from 60 minutes to two hours and rates are from VND65,000 to VND530,000. The spa also offers Thann and Harnn, popular beauty products in Thailand.

GLOW SPA

129A Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

wordhcmc.com

110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service with discounts for members.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB

3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9901 intercontinental.com/saigon Spa InterContinental offers guests the professional spa expertise and a truly sensory experience. With an extensive menu, the Spa InterContinental provides the caring touch of local therapists.

SPA TROPIC

79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic. com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

THANH SANCTUARY

Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated. Treatments focus on relaxa-

tion therapies.

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB

22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn A luxury health spa that offers both relaxation and health care therapies to clients. Oriental remedies and therapies collected from the Traditional Medicine Institutes of Vietnam are used by the centre’s therapists.

THE SPA

Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0290 thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4000 ext. 2235 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Different treatment rooms are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna.

XUAN SPA

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury spa with a tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages, facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

YKC SPA

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction has established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

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FASHION

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Looking good and dressing even better is big in this image-conscious metropolis. So, here are some of the fashion options available to you in Ho Chi Minh City

Accessories & Shoes 2K BAG SHOP

193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc; 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa Tel: 0977 872777 Gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this store stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

ACCESSORIZE

animals. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000.

CHARLES & KEITH

SERGIO ROSSI

18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9306 9am to 10pm With two branches in town, this airy, well-displayed Singaporean store sells women’s shoes, bags, sunglasses and accessories. Prices are acceptable for an international brand.

B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9308 Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to their attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses, and more.

DR. MARTENS

Anupa Eco Luxe

35 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3832 3904 hoangphucvietnam.com The bright yellow signage and the street style, wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots. With Dr. Martens, it’s all about the quality of the soles.

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

IPA-NIMA

2 Thao Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 01283 221705 bandzofmonkeyz.com B.O.M provides imported, high-quality helmets from Italy and China, bean bags, authentic sunglasses from France, high-quality raincoats for kids and adults and other accessories.

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm One of Vietnam’s most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery, Ipa-Nima offers flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes. Stocks shoes, dresses and hats.

BIRKENSTOCK

JEMMA

B.O.M SHOP

B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Birkenstock sells shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany, offering similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON

1B Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm Well-known for recycled bags of various designs and colours. Other unique products includes quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery and scrap metal

174 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3926 0270 jemma.com.vn Jemma’s elegance and luxury provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam, with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece.

MAI O MAI

67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4007 mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool, funky jewellery, along with ethnic bags, hand-made silver and lacquer items. All

146AB Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Features upmarket shoes and bags made from highquality materials such as crocodile or python skin, and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads.

SKECHERS

115 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 9582 hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm One of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. SKECHERS offers new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

TDC SWISS WATCHES

20 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3929 0685 tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. Stocks highend brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

TICTAC WATCHES

72 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 3519 tictacwatch.com 9am to 10pm TicTac, growing from a family watch specialist store to an elegant black-and-gold designer watch showroom, stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Maurice Lacroix, Hirsch and Swiza. Provides repairs and battery changes.

THERESE JEWELRY

9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 3756 8am to 7.30pm A great lap of luxury. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, from a gold plain daisy brooch to cufflinks. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring.

VESPA SHOP

Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

YB DESIGNS

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2

Tel: 0907 168910 yimbaderjewelry.com Offers handmade jewellery products that are crafted from gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite. Prices are affordable, depending on gemstone and design, but usually start at VND50,000.

Clothing - Budget MARATHON

147 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Simple and accessible, Marathon offers colourful beach pants, t-shirts, flip-flops, caps and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices start at VND110,000 for a tshirt.

PAPAYA

171 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts and offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. Profits from each sale are given to two charity organizations.

ORANGE

152 Bui Vien, Q1 180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3 Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults, selling jeans, t-shirts, sandals and accessories. Prices are affordable, with t-shirts selling for VND180,000.

RAZ GARNETT

137 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, sunglasses, sneakers, authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops and Crocs sandals. Carries European-sized tshirts.

Clothing - Mid-Range BAM SKATE SHOP

174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-style-cumskate store stocks a mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps and accessories. A range of skateboards are on sale,

costing between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

BOO

187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 134 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 0936 303632 boo.vn BOO embraces street style in clothing and décor. BOO’s brands have their own street stalls in-store, stocking clothing and shoes made in Vietnam and designed by the youth-savvy staff.

GINKGO

balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. Dresses start at VND1.5 million.

ER-COUTURE

43 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 2411 er-couture.com 9am to 8pm Stocks high-quality designer garments from floral dresses to tight tanks and chiffon shorts to high-waist trousers. Accessories are carried as well as larger sizes.

54-56 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 6675 2281 ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

FRENCH CONNECTION

MAXXSTYLE

GAYA CLOTHING

52 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: (08) 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Best-known for its unisex clothing, MaxxStyle contains a wide range of apparel in different designs, fabrics and colours. A pair of jeans starts at VND450,000 while shirts start around VND279,000.

NINOMAXX

118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 9689 ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm Set in a large, two-floor space with Renaissance-style columns, Ninomax offers both men’s and women’s clothing. As a brother to MaxxStyle, it has the similar prices and products.

Clothing Mid to Top BOSSINI

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3839 2292 9am to 10pm Hong Kong-brand retailer sells male and female casual wear of various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts. Prices range from VND900,000 for jeans and VND700,000 for shirts.

D’BLANC

89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 5164 d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by modern women and youth, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that

L1-08, Vincom Center, Dong Khoi Street, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 7493 8lions.com 9am to 10pm Stocks both casual and formal wear for both men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. A pair of men’s jeans costs around VND1.8 million. Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1495 Clothing is designed and tailor-made by renowned designer Romyda Keth, and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. Gaya sells colourful, sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4004 8am to 10pm Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs. The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

IT’S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET

89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset. wordpress.com 9am to 9pm This spot (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, jewellery and accessories, and doubles as a WiFifriendly café.

LABELLA

85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Products inside this decorative Vietnamese fashion outlet include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. Offers a large se-

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{ window Shopping}

** Waterproofed in Vietnam * *

lection of bags, night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

LEVI’S

47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3822 3281 9.30am to 10pm For those with Levi’s love, there are several of the selfbranded stores throughout the city that offer a range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices normally start at VND2 million.

LITI

40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Stocks simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, along with clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple blouse starts at VND820,000.

L’USINE

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 6674 3565 lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MAI’S

46/12 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, or email contact@ peoniesboutique.com

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2733 mailam.com.vn 9.30am to 9.30pm Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs, with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories and a selection of artworks.

Lam Boutique

MANGO

Model: Penelope Cadeau Photographer: Arnaud de Harven

e’re here to remind you to hit the refresh button on your wardrobe. The impending rainy season doesn’t mean digging out your dreary, weather-friendly gear and discarding all sense of style. Stand out in the sea of oversized, full-body ponchoed masses with our favourite ‘Made in Vietnam’ designers and boutiques.

Linda Mai Phung Sure, right now we’re in the mood for edgy candy colours and casual, summer-festival style, but we always go back to our favourite items that manage to stand the test of time. Cue designer Linda Mai Phung. Her multicultural, youthful and open-to-theworld outlook provides us with some of the chicest and most inventively elegant options east of her native France. They are also an eco-ethical fashion

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label, utilising organic cotton, silk, linen and wool, upcycled materials and traditional fabrics made by Asian ethnic minorities. Need we say more? Available at L’Usine, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 or email contact@lindamaiphung.com

Peonies Boutique When it comes to solving your closet conundrums, this hidden gem takes the cake. Whether you want a sophisticated look for the office or an attentiongetting party look, Peonies Boutique provides the perfect inspiration to craft a brilliant ensemble. Mix and match their prints, which range from bright, bold blooms to every size of polka dot. Experiment with their retro-inspired motifs and ladylike silhouettes. No matter which you prefer, you can create an outfit perfect for any occasion. Get the look now at

At one point or another, we’re all faced with the challenge of keeping our style fresh and exciting. The good news is that you can look to the influential tastemakers at Lam for guidance. Pick from a range of trendy but naturallyinspired looks, and soft and luxurious fabrics to suit your sensibilities. Ageless and sophisticated, those who prefer the elegant and minimal will find their paradise here. With unquestionably chic silhouettes and details, we think you’ll find their choices inspiring too. — Kathryn Cardenas Visit one of Lam Boutique’s three locations: 57 Xuan Thuy, 1st Floor, Q2; 76A Le Loi, 1st Floor, Q1 or 71 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1

40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1136 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9300 shop.mango.com/vn/mango 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand provides a range of clothing along with selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million and jeans starts at VND1.4 million.

MARIPOSA

61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis - 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 Tel: (08) 3925 9993 mariposa.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, master-brand Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, with this one offering stylish and comfortable clothing for work or play.

MR & MRS SMITH 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 8019

9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet sells a variety of clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam. All designs are brand new, delivered from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices.

NGAN

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 9391 24/4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: (08) 3827 7688 nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Stocks mainly women’s clothes, though men are also catered to. Prices are more top-end due to designs and high-quality fabrics. A party dress starts at VND6 million.

SONG

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 5292 asiasongdesign.com Stocks clothing by French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie with a quaint, slightly Gallic feel, made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000.

THUY NGA DESIGN

19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 3574 thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm One of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam, this luxurious shop stocks men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear, along with jewellery and accessories.

UMBRELLA

35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 6276 2730 umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Umbrella sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices vary, from VND999,000 up to VND3,499,000 on selected items with more complicated craftsmanship.

Clothing - Top-End ANUPA

Eco Luxe Anupa, 9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Houses the complete Anupa Collection along with products of Anupa Horvil’s handpicked eco designers. Features luxury leather accessories including bags for men and women, yoga bags, and belts.

CHLOÉ

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm One of the most popular international brands due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products like low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes, contemporary glasses and Sakia bags.

JUST CAVALLI

M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9005 9am to 10pm

This Italian brand’s apparel varies in both design and fabric stocking for men and women. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million.

MARC JACOBS

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel, this urban American brand carries internationalstandard clothing and a wide range of accessories and sophisticated bags, starting around VND6 million.

VERSACE

M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9001 9am to 10pm Stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, products come in many colours and fabrics, with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style.

Lingerie & Swimwear AQUAMARINE

211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 5695 A small shop full of colourful products offering one-piece bikinis, two-pieces, monokinis and various types of beachwear. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Custom orders are available.

JOCKEY

Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3602 2676 9am to 10pm The American brand shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear. Imported clothing is slightly more expensive.

LA HA

139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands, containing a comprehensive range of swim products as well as yoga and gym outfits. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini.

SSUZI

127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and twopiece bikinis starting from VND250,000. Stocks maxim dresses from VND380,000 and beach sandals from VND110,000.

TRIUMPH

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, de-

{top Shelf}

signed with western women in mind. Bras start at VND600,000.

WACOAL

94 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women, Wacoal differentiates itself with its classic designs. Bras range from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000.

** Storm P * *

Sportswear SPORTS STREETS

Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1; Pham Hong Thai, Q1 These two main streets in city centre stock everything from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma through to the real thing.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy

U.BEST HOUSE

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 9187 9am to 10.30pm Stocks a range of travel related products, including torches, binoculars, climbing gear, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags, underwear and cycling gear.

Tailors HOANG DUNG

270 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 2240 5990 9am to 8pm Offers a wide range of tailormade clothing. Bring your own fabric or choose from their stock. A vest costs around VND700,000, and it’s about VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including fabrics.

MANDARINA

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 5267 9am to 7pm Great place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes or ready-to-wear shoes. Choose the design and colour yourself. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000, depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR

39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com 9am to 11pm Offers tailor-made clothing in the latest and trendiest designs and styles, with a wide range of fabrics. Alterations are available. An ao dai starts at VND1.6 million, including fabric. Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordhcmc.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

enmark is only a motorbike trip away. Take a step into Storm P to find yourself in a cosy European atmosphere. Take a seat at the long, simple wood bar, be close to friendly guests who’ll be glad to lead you through the menu. The mirror behind the back bar is a clever decorative element, finding yourself between different bottles and traditional, colourful Danish houses that deck the wall behind you. You can stare at yourself if you want to, or at least follow your eyes as they gaze down on the beer and liquor options. Finding ourselves a bit lost in the menu was a great opportunity to meet interesting people from all around the world. Storm P offers a wide range of dishes and it is often not clear which ones are really Danish. Except the ones with confusing names, which left us questioning ingredients

and compositions. That’s how we started talking to a Kiwi, an Israeli and the perfect Danish stereotype — tall and blond, the perfect Scandinavian — we’ll call him Klaus. He guided us through the menu and we followed his suggestion to try the herring, savoured along with an Aalborg schnapps — a traditional Danish spirit, infused with herbs and spices. We shared it as a starter, two pieces of dark bread with cold pickled herring and a perfectly cooked egg, served with a bowl of mayonnaise and shots of Aalborg. The salty herring and the rye taste of Aalborg with its hint of anise make a perfect combination — just like vodka and caviar. For each bite you have, Klaus says, you have a shot of Aalborg. We made sips out of shots, and I finished the herring with delight, my northern European heart beating faster. I’m coming back, I resolved in

that moment — not for the garlic bread though! Prices are reasonable, about VND50,000 for most of the beers — go for a Carlsberg if you want it Danish. The herring was about VND70,000, and main courses range from VND100,000 to VND200,000. The atmosphere is cosy and amicable; in the back there are two huge tables for big groups to sit together comfortably. People are talkative and service is perfect. Plus, you’re in a great area of Ho Chi Minh City, where you can make an international pub crawl out of your night. Start with a Carlsberg at Storm P, go down the street for a sangria at Pacharan (97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) and a caipirinha at Blanchy’s Tash (95 Hai Ba Trung) and you’re halfway there. Skål! — Kristin Zimmer Storm P is at 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1. Check them out online at stormp.vn

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INTERIORS

Give your home that look you’ve always dreamed of. Furniture and repro art is not just manufactured in Vietnam for export. Apparently you can even buy bicycles made from bamboo here. Oops, no. Those beauties are for export only.

Arts APRICOT GALLERY

50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

DOGMA

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propagandaprinted tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

GALLERY

244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

GALERIE QUYNH

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1,

this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamese-themed stereotypes available elsewhere in town. Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHU Y

257 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a four-floor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1

Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists. Depending on size, style and

material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG

234 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and wellorganised space offers a comprehensive range of products. An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

Crafts EM EM

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-madeclothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

MEKONG CREATIONS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: (08) 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the NGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

Want to be in touch with what’s happening in this city? Check us out online at

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NGUYEN FRERES

2 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house. Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

83 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA

209 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

MEKONG QUILTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: (08) 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of

wordhcmc.com

quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

Furniture AUSTIN HOME

20 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE

Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: (08) 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs. Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA

The Crescent Parcel CR107/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: (08) 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by well-known brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are

taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT

68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: (08) 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks. Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS

4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: (08) 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interiorfurnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

IRRESISTIBLE

Light and Living Store 37 Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3521 2828 Open 9am to 8pm Delivering superior quality interior decorative products at an affordable price, Irresistible's integrated selections create a synergy which offer home furnishing solutions for anything from the bedroom through to the living room and the study. For more information check out their website - www.ptrio.co.th.

CHI LAI

53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: (08) 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

CLIC CLAC SOFA

327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: (08) 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC

11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com. vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-to-order furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement sto-

rey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery. Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

GAYA

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

GOMO

7/30B, road 13, Binh Hoa, Thuan An Town, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 376 5115 www.gomo.com.vn Typical of the large, slightly out-of-town stores found in Europe, North America and Australia that focus on all things for the home, Gomo

represents the arrival of a new style of homewares shop in Vietnam.

HAFELE SHOWROOM

46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

LIVING & GIVING

59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors. Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

THE LOST ART

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

NHA XINH

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: (08) 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large se-

lection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

outdoor living

Tel: (09) 0770 9044 outdoorlifestyle.com.vn Vietnam has a climate that is perfect for spending time outdoors, why not make the most of it? Outdoor Lifestyle Products offers a range of products designed and developed to complement the best in BBQs.

REMIX DECO

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials. From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs. Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN

152 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: (08) 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailormade environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

Kitchenware CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1

It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared

Lighting

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordhcmc.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

AO DONG

Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand. Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO

51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOUSE

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials. Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE

98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 4634 mosaiquedecoration.com This eye-popping lime greenpainted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

SHOPPING MALLS Diamond Plaza

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Hung Vuong Plaza

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Parkson Plaza

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Saigon Centre

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Saigon Square

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

Saigon Tax Trading Centre

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

Vincom Center

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Zen Plaza

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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* ELECTRONICS Nope, Ho Chi Minh City is not as cheap as Hong Kong or Bangkok when it comes to those camera and computer purchases we are all obsessed with these days. But it’s not far off. Here’s a lowdown on where stuff is available

Cameras CAMERA STREET

Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH

28 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS

Tel: 0903 035 271 silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small. The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

MAT RONG VANG

Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 6294 5448 goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions.

A world leader in real time monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE

11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony. They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

Computers COMPUTER STREETS

Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

CARTRIDGE WORLD

81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0999 cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of well-known brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER

236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 7300 6666 elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their

stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million. Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG

Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 8999 hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customerservice.

LONG BINH COMPUTER

50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 0699 longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers. Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU

125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 8777 vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM 42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2247

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Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN

MOBILE PHONE STREETS

The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: (08) 3818 1188 tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THANH CONG MOBILE

THUAN MY CO.

182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292 thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 9164 thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

Mobile Phones GIA KIEN

352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3868 3733 giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

wordhcmc.com

382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3526 5838 thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG

VIENTHONG A

328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3863 3333 vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

ELECTRONICS MARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson. In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

Cho Lon Electronics MarkeT

590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

Gia Thanh

975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: (08) 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

iDEAS Shopping Centre

133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm

Nguyen Kim

63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm

Thien Hoa

277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: (08) 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa. vn 8am to 10pm

GROCERIES *

From catering services through to the growing number of bakeries - and we’re not talking Tous Les Jours. Here are places to stock up on wine, liquor, imported cheeses and freshly baked bread

Bakeries CAKEWALK

84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: (08) 6295 9087 cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS

117 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS

33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING

30 Lam Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

NHU LAN

64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

SIMRANS

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

SESAME BAKERY

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3518 0897 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER

39 Thao Dien, Q2 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

Catering AU PARC CATERING

Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western–fusion French

food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

LE REUNION DES MARMITES

Tel: 6274 0647 lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more. Visit website for full menu.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

41 Vo Truong Toan, D.2, HCMC Tel: (08) 3898 9286 info@saigoncateringco.com saigoncateringco.com With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals. Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a stand-up cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128

info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

Groceries ANNAM MARKET

GOURMET

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS

45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8126 aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: (08) 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make

up the bulk of the selection, but some locally–sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

LE COCHON D’OR

32 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

PHUONG HA

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA

60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers. Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

VEGGY’S

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

Liquor & Wine ANNAM SHOP

GOURMET

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9332 annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

BACCHUS CORNER

158D Pasteur, Q1 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable pric-

es. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

74E Hai Ba Trung,Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE

6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: (08) 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

RED APRON

22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

THE WAREHOUSE

178 Pasteur, Q Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VINIFERA

15C7 Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP

74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

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GEN.V

Got kids? Looking for that perfect school for your children? Want to give them involved in some extra-curricular activities? Search no further. Here are some options for you

Baby Equipment Baby

66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: (08) 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

Babyland (Bao Mau)

Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Offers first-rate (if pricey) equipment ranging from strollers to sterilizers to parenting books.

Babymart

325 Truong Vinh Ky, Tan Phu babymart.vn Carries an expansive selection of baby equipment in its stores and online. Offers fast delivery for online purchases.

Babytoy

359/51 Le Van Sy, Q3 www.babytoysaigon.com Here you can find baby clothes, accessories, and toys imported from the US.

Belli Blossom

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6615 4th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7574 belliblossom.com.vn Stocks imported brands of maternity wear and nursing accessories, infant clothes, baby utensils, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and more.

Du Lundi Au Samedi

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Q1; Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi

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Q1; Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton Q1 Sells clothing for kids from newborn to toddlers, as well as bedding, equipment, accessories and organic jarred baby food.

Maman Bebe

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8724 mamanbebe.com.vn Carries strollers, car seats, baby utensils, clothing, and accessories. Most products are made by the Japanese company Combi.

Me Oi

1B Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital, this shop sells reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

Mom & Baby

230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 1611; 40 Ton That Tung Q1; 101-103 Khanh Hoi, Q4; 141D Phan Dang Luu; 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nuan, Q7 The closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

Rainbow for Kids

105C Truong Dinh Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 4930 Offers a variety of supplies, utensils, and healthcare products for both expectant mothers and infants.

Classes & Sports Dancenter

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

Guitar and Piano Classes

Kids Club Saigon

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: 0908 460267 www.kidsclubsaigon.com An early childhood centre offering early learning programmes for children aged 18 months to five, including toddler playgroups, preschool classes and enrichment activities. Also has after-school activities for kids aged four to eight.

Tel: 0913 877884 With 30 years experience teaching youngsters, Mr Anh Vu Phi offers private tutoring in Vietnamese and English at reasonable rates. After a stint in Seville, Spain, he now offers classes in flamenco.

Minh Nguyen Piano Boutique

Helene Kling Oil Painting

Montessori School

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com French painter offers daytime and evening courses for children and adults, teaching beginners about different mediums and techniques and helping artists of all skill levels unlock their creativity.

Inspirato Music Center

4-6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729846 Private music lessons in piano and violin from beginner level up to Grade 8 and beyond. Also runs a chamber music club with regular concerts and ensemble lessons for strings and woodwind.

82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels. 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Geneva Conservatory graduate Steffen Christophe teaches an introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard and voice.

Performing Arts Academy of Saigon 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

Piano Classes

Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail. com Suitable for kids of all ages, these piano lessons range from basic to advanced.

Rubba Duckies Swim School

Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years, run by Elizabeth Hollins.

Saigon Movement

Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail. com Aiming to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports activities, Saigon Movement offers a variety of classes in movement development for ages two to 11. Contact Abbie Klein.

Saigon Seal Team

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com This 15-week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centre in Vietnam, offers scuba diving adventures in a swimming pool for eight to nine year olds.

Saigon Pony Club

42 Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn rid-

ing techniques from three, part–time teachers.

S ai g on S ports Academy

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

Tae Kwon Do

BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0903 918149 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. An additional fee for non– members applies.

Vinspace

6 Le Van Mien, Q2 Tel: 0907 729846 vin-space.com Provides kids classes in anything from mixed art, oil painting, crafts and still life drawing through to jewellery making and fashion design.

Clothing 123 Baby Clothing

226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000 per item. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

Baby Gap

Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Crescent Mall 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Offers everything you would find at a Baby Gap overseas, including socks and shoes for kids ages one to five, although at a higher price.

Children’s Planet

This Los Angeles establishment selling fashion and accessories to kids from one to 12 years old now has a number of branches in Ho Chi Minh City.

Children's Books Fahasa

90 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 childrenplanet.com.vn Provides boys and girls’ clothing from ages five to 14 with clothes imported from Singapore.

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odds and ends.

Debenhams

Phuong Nam

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 A range of apparel for children from newborns to pre-teens with clothing imported from the UK.

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

Little Anh-Em

Nha Sach Me va Con

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

Ninh Khuong

44 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 9079 220 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 9183 ninhkhuong.vn Offers 100 percent cotton hand-embroidered apparel for children ages one to 14.

Thanh Thuy

93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4893 Offers primarily cotton clothes for all ages at reasonable prices. Their friendly, English–speaking staff is always on hand to help.

Tuti Bella

75 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 0527 49 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 7348 72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9088 tutibella.com.vn

(Mum and Baby Bookstore) 46 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 8386 nsmevacon.com.vn Supplies a variety of books, paintings, pictures, CDs, VCDs and DVDs, stationery and gift accessories for mums, dads, children and educators.

Education ABC International School

2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Serving students from 32 nations, ages two to 18, ABC delivers a curriculum wholly based on UK standards, culminating in IGCSE’s and A levels (awarded upon graduation by Cambridge University examinations board).

ACG International School

East-West Highway, An Phu, Q2 Tel: (08) 3747 1234 acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG

boasts comprehensive education programmes from kindergarten to high school, a range of extracurricular activities, and impressive facilities.

Australian International School (AIS)

Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 2727 Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 696 Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2 Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

British International School (BIS)

246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British-style curriculum for an international student body and is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISSEA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

Citysmart

Cu Xa Do Thanh, 7, Duong So. 2, Q3 Tel: (08) 3832 8488; Flemington Tower, 2nd Floor, 182 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 Tel: (08) 3962 1218 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

Compass Education

15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 3302 compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education offers a range of courses designed to meet academic, corporate, and professional goals. Offers nanny and teacher placements as well as career counselling.

Gymboree Play & Music of Vietnam

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children up to five years old for over 30 years, making them a leader in early childhood development programmes.

Canadian I nternational School

13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: (08) 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a studentcentred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

I nternational School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC)

28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc.com The only fully authorized IB World School in Ho Chi Minh City, ISHCMC has been awarding graduates with an IB Diploma and sending them off to high-profile overseas universities since 1999.

I nternational S c h ool S ai g on Pearl (ISSP) 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 2222 7799

issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American-standard curriculum, as well as unique extra-curriculars like golf and Mandarin Language classes. A brand new, state-of-the-art campus caters to students from nursery through to grade 5.

Kindermusik Early Childhood Education Centre Ground Floor, Crescent Residence 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0907 099480 www.kindermusik-vietnam. com Kindermusik is the world’s premier music, movement and English language programme for children from birth to age 7. Each weekly lesson promotes early literacy and English language acquisition, social skills and more.

Little Genius International Kindergarten

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten shares a curriculum with its sister school in the US. Its facilities and learning environment remain unsurpassed by any other kindergarten in Vietnam.

Montessori International School 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

Renaissance International School Saigon (RISS)

74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08) 3773 3171 rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides students from over 25 nations with a British / international education. Students ages two to 18 enjoy classes taught by qualified native English

speakers at their state–of– the–art campus.

Saigon International College (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0938 371760 sic.edu.vn Overseen by the Curriculum Council of Western Australia, SIC’s program for years 10 to 12 provides graduating students with the Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), allowing direct entry to all Australian universities.

German International School – GIS

730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 7300 7257 www.giss.vn The German International School offers a unique bi-lingual German-English programme for students, from a variety of nationalities, from 2 to 16 years old. Its curriculum is based on the internationally recognised Primary Years Programmes (PYP), Middle Years Programme (MYP) and IB Diploma Programme of the International Baccalaureate (IB) system.

Saigon Kids Educational Childcare Centre

15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

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Got kids? Looking for that perfect school for your children? Want to give them involved in some extra-curricular activities? Search no further. Here are some options for you

S a i g on S out h I nternational School (SSIS)

Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

Saigon Star International School

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 3222 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

Smartkids

1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran

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Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

The American School of Vietnam

177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 2223 theamericanschool.edu.vn An independent and private university preparatory school with an individualised programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through to Grade 12.

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 3933 3655 vas.edu.vn One of the leading schools in Vietnam, VAS provides programmes from kindergarten to secondary school. In line with their mission to encourage a global mindset in new generations, VAS integrates

international educational methods.

Vietnamese Language Studies Saigon (VLS)

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 0168 R4-28 (Hung Phuoc 2), Le Van Them, Q7 Tel: (08) 3602 6694 vlstudies.com VLS has built a reputation over 18 years by offering courses tailored to all abilities. Classes are located either at VLS’s high quality facilities, or at the learner’s office/ home.

Entertainment Binh Quoi Botanical Gardens

1147 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3556 6020 binhquoiresort.com.vn Features a landscaped park, weekend buffets, and children’s activities and entertainment. Reachable by boat from District 1.

Dam Sen Park

3 Hoa Binh, Q11 Tel: (08) 3963 4963 damsenpark.vn Popular theme park / water park provides fun for the whole family at a low price.

Diamond Plaza

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 7750 Features a fourth–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth– oriented eating options such as KFC and Pizza Hut.

Parkson Plaza

35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7614 Parkson Plaza has a large selection of arcade games along with a bowling alley and a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

Suoi Tien Amusement Park

120 AH 1, Tan Phu, Q9 Tel: (08) 3896 0260 Offers all of the expected amusement park attractions in a spectacular setting that includes a manmade beach, a dinosaur garden and a zoo.

X-Rock Climbing

74 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6210 9192 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 2210 9192 xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre, purpose–built mountain in District 3, with an additional location in District 2.

Kids' Parties

Saigon Zoo

2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 3728 A wide variety of animals, well maintained facilities, peaceful atmosphere, and fun activities for kids including bumper cars and playgrounds.

196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

Dots & Con

Tel: 0909 052502 dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

Gymboree Play & Music

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn Specializing in first through fifth birthday parties, Gymboree will take care of everything, including venue, invitations, party favours and more. Offers themes such as Princess Palace and Dinosaur Adventures.

The Balloon Man

100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to

any party that needs balloon shapes.

The Caterers

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Although mainly focused on grown–up events, this company does an excellent job catering for kids’ parties.

Medical American Eye Center

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: (08) 5413 6758 americaneyecentervn.com An American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 15 years of experience in the US treats vision problems such as hyperopia, astigmatism, focusing problems, myopia, strabismus and lazy eyes.

Family Medical Practice

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com

Three paediatricians practice their speciality at this well–equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV Hospital

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped pediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

International SOS Medical & Dental Clinic

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 8520 internationalsos.com Open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, the internationally experienced pediatric team at this clinic will meet your family's preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs. House call service is also available.

Starlight Dental

2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Modern, well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

Victoria Healthcare International Clinic

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 4545 victoriavn.com Committed to pediatrics, this clinic provides services including general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations. Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordhcmc.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

Helping kids reach new heights.

SSIS: join the climb. • Not for profit • 850+ students from 35+ countries, 20% nationality caps • 70% of our teachers have advanced degrees, 65% have ten+ years teaching experience • Large, park-like campus • New state of the art high school facilities • 3 libraries, 2 gymnasiums, 25m swimming pool and visual & performing arts rooms • 1:1 laptop/netbook HS/MS program • IB diploma program / AP coursework and diploma option • Co-curricular trips within SE Asia • Buses to Districts 1, 2, 3

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

78 Nguyen Duc Canh Street, Tan Phong Ward, District 7, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: (84-8) 5 413 0901 - F: (84-8) 5 413 0902 - E: info@ssis.edu.vn - W: www.ssis.edu.vn

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TRAVEL

People travel thousands of miles to get a whiff of exotic Vietnam. From travel agencies though to resorts, here are a few suggestions on where to stay and how to get there in and around Vietnam

AIRLINES Air Asia

www.airasia.com

Air France

130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

Air Mekong

1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

American Airlines

194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

Cathay Pacific

5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

China Airlines

Travel Agencies ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS

7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in the Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining, and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia.

ASIANATRAVEL MATE CO. LTD

113C Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6678 92-94-96 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 0615 asianatravelmate.com A tourist information company offering customized itineraries, tour packages, hotel and cruise reservations throughout Asia. Daily tours are available in Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, and three deluxe cruises in Ha Long Bay.

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL

3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 5523 azasiatravel.com AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level in Asia.

Jetstar Pacific

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR

37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

Japan Airlines

www.jetstar.com/vn

Korean Air

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

Lao Airlines

93 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

Malaysia Airlines

Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com

Singapore Airlines

Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

Thai Airways

29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

Tiger Airways

www.tigerairways.com

Vietnam Airlines

27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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Ho Chi Minh Intl Airport, Tel: (08) 3930 1118 budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best– known car rental companies.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY

81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

COME AND GO VIETNAM

195/14, D1, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 3281 comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, high–quality, innovative custom tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

DALAT EASY RIDER

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat dalat-easyrider.com Motorbike tours from over 70

guides, all speaking English. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands, Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Note: insurance is not included.

They offer daily tours, short getaways, and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

Exotissimo

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotissimo.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC

60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0939 402872 flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff fluent in English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese.

FLY VIETNAM

flyvietnam.com They provide flight information, pricing, availability and booking for domestic and international travel, in addition to railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals, travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

KIM TRAVEL

270 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 5552 kimtravel.com One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992.

BIKE RENTALS

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation.

ONE WORLD TRADING SERVICE TOURISM Co.

28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 6675 2620 oneworldvn.com A local inbound tour operator specializing in boutique tours around Vietnam. They provide economy, luxury, packages and tailor-made tours, which include the flexibility for customers to explore at their own pace.

TERRAVERDE

12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

TU TRAVEL

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Services include trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc, Phnom Penh, Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

169A De Tham, Q1 Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure.com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

Want to be in touch with what’s happening in this city? Check us out online at

Chi’s Café

40/27 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

Natalie’s Bike Rentals

Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pickup.

Saigon Motorbike

203 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat.

Saigon Scooter Centre

25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

wordhcmc.com

Dalat ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555888 anamandara-resort.com 17 French colonial villas reside atop the slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Complete with a personal butler, in-villa dining, and a holistic spa, Ana Mandra Villas is where luxury meets tranquility.

BLUE MOON HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 04 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat, Tel: 063 357 8888 bluemoonhotel.com.vn This châteauesque resort is found in the heart of Dalat. Pamper at the beauty salon, indulge at the BBQ garden, or take in the view from the heated swimming pool.

hotel retains its classic charms.

DREAMS HOTEL

$ 151 and 164b Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 dreamshoteldalat.com An all you can eat breakfast buffet, jacuzzis, saunas, and friendly service. This is one of the budget deals in town.

Dalat Train Villa

Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, twostorey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT Dalat Green City Hotel

172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

DALAT PALACE

$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat, Tel: 063 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn The style of the 1920s, the backdrop of the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain, and a piano bar — these are the elements through which Dalat’s top

$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat, Tel: 063 355 0979 lasapinette.com This four-star apart’hotel exudes the French art nouveau style. Boasting a modern commercial centre, retail, food and beverage outlets, La Sapinette is the palace to call home.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: 063 382 2663 Centrally located, this quaint stop offers affordable accommodations, in a basic style. Goes bus-todoor through the Sinh Café people.

Hanoi CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

$$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi,

Tel: 04 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

FRASER SUITES

$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho, Tel: 04 37198877 hanoi.frasershospitality.com Fully serviced, fully furnished, and strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is a gold–standard bearer of expat living.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: 0439 286969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

$ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0438 285372 hanoibackpackershostel.com Two locations in Hanoi; complete with bunk beds, in same or mixed sexed dorms, pool tables, and darts. This is the place to meet international travelers.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 428387 hongngochotel.com With four locations in the Old Quarter, and close proximity to Hoan Kiem Lake, this is a good, central, no-frills chain. Amenities include compact rooms, friendly staff and free Wi–Fi.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0439 381048 josephshotel.com Aside the immaculate St. Joseph’s Cathedral, and boasting exceptional Breakfast Pho, comfort is found at Joseph’s. One of the best boutique deals in town.

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: 0437 349988 marigoldhotelhanoi.com The newly-built Marigold Hotel combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with Oriental luxury . Online promotions, and a nightly live Irish pub on the top floor.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0439 380999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem

Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

PULLMAN HOTEL DESTINATION

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0437 330808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SOFITEL METROPOLE

$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0438 266919 sofitel.com The finest hotel from the French colonial period restored to modern Hanoi. This elegant oasis of charm is complimented with impeccable service, luxurious facilities and an ambience of a bygone era.

Around Hanoi BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: 0313 880888 pearlriverhotel.vn This four-star resort offers in room bathrobe, slip-

pers, digital safety box, free Wi-Fi, satellite TV, 24hour room service. A resort complete with a pool, deluxe spa, fitness centre, and VIP massage room.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARk

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: 0303 848006 cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and primate centre with accommodations is stilt houses or detached bungalows. Both are available at the park headquarters, the park centre and on the road between the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with,

HANOI HILTON

$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0439 330500 hilton.com Adjacent to the prestigious Opera House, this five–star landmark lives up to its family name. Colonial architecture, an elegant and spacious interior, is further complemented by, the spacious courtyard pool.

Viet Nam

Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

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overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

those who wish commune with nature.

Equatorial also has an onsite casino.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

LA VIE VU LINH

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 385622 etoile-des-mers.com 10 houses, surrounded by rice fields, lakes, and hills, this eco–village caters to

ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

Bloom Microventures

Soc Son Tel: 0164 387 6594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

Forest Floor Lodge

Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 061 366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

Jungle Beach

Nha Trang Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com A resort, ecolodge, and school, located on the banks of Thac Ba Lake. This bamboo-constructed paradise offers lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours, hiking, and volunteer opportunities.

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: 2183 868959 maichaulodge.com Rock climbing, kayaking, cycling, and a romance in nature, the Buffalo Toursowned lodge is set in a lush valley, this is home to indigenous Vietnamese.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 848108 novotelhalong.com.vn This beachfront property is close to local markets. Fine dining, a professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, and a pool overlooking the limestone bay.

Mango Bay

HCMC - International CARAVELLE HOTEL

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 0838 234999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

Mia Nha Trang

DUXTON HOTEL

Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 077 398 1693 w w w. m a n g o b a y phuquoc.com

Mekong Lodge

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821633 www.mianhatrang.com

Pan Hou Eco Lodge Village Resort

Ha Giang Tel: 0219 3833 3565 www.panhou-village. com

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay

Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 0835 209999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0838 233333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

La Vie Vu Linh

Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1 Tel: 0839 257777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 0838 222999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

EQUATORIAL

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 0838 397777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 0838 228888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 0838 241234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italian-themed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0838 251417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

Want to be in touch with what’s happening in this city? Check us out online at

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REX HOTEL

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 0838 292185 rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now fivestar property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

SHERATON

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 0838 272828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 0838 241555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

THE AU CO, BHAYA CRUISES

$$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 aucocruises.com The Au Co offers a continuous three-day voyage in the Gulf of Tonkin. The firstclass twin vessels feature: 32 luxury cabins, private balconies, nature-inspired cuisine, spa treatments, and a jacuzzi.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 0838 336688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - Deluxe CONTINENTAL

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 0838 299201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture .

HOTEL MAJESTIC

$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 0838 295517 majesticsaigon.com.vn Since 1925 this vintage ho-

wordhcmc.com

tel encompasses the beauty that is Vietnam. Overlooking the Saigon River, its unique atmosphere makes it that much more majestic.

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 656/52 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, Tel: 0838 460263 mamaison.vn The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. The Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in-house guests.

NORFOLK HOTEL

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0838 295368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

designed outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

HCMC - Mid-Range ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 0838 225914 kimdohotel.com Perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the brightly-lit exterior guarantees that you’ll never be lost at night. Enjoy executive jacuzzis and use online booking for discounted promotions.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 0838 227926 lanlanhotel.com.vn Centrally located near the Ben Thanh Market, the two hotels are juxtaposed on opposite sides of Thu Khoa Huan. Lan Lan 1 and 2 offer a homely feel at affordable prices.

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 0838 224866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

RAMANA HOTEL

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 0838 439999 ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites while offering: a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool, and the Sawasdee Health Club.

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0837 442222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0862 569966 alcovehotel.com.vn Architectural elegance, and timeless style, this literal library themed inn is nestled in a charming and quiet neighborhood. Their fine selection of literature waits to be read, atop the rooftop terrace.

SABENA HOTEL

$$$ 24 Noi Khu Hung, Gia 4, PMH, Q7 , Tel: 0854 161000 sabena.vn On a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the Sabena is equipped with the latest in–room technology. For the international businessperson, this is a good choice away from downtown Saigon.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0839 998888, starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortably-

HCMC - Budget CALIFORNIA GUEST HOUSE

$ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 Always buzzing with activity, the California Guest House offers a communal kitchen, and free laundry. Book early, as this guesthouse is highly popular and has limited numbers vacancies.

CAM LY HOTEL AND APARTMENT

$ 656 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 With 24-hour security, cable

television and ADSL Internet access, this clean and comfortable hotel offers peace of mind and affordable studio apartments.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0839 206992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

DUNA HOTEL

$ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1 Tel: 0838 373699 dunahotel.com With its communal kitchen and a TV room, a stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0838 361915 honghoavn.com It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked-away little spot is on a par with anything else in the area — attractive, comfortable, friendly and more.

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn Free breakfast, free computer usage, motorbike rental, and discounts for long term stay, the Sinh Huong Hotel is one of the few guesthouses to accept credit cards.

Hoi An & Danang CUA DAI

$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 5103 862231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/ Hoi An’s best kept secret is a family–run hotel with a charming colonial air located between the town and the beach, complete with a pool garden and air–conditioned rooms.

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: 5113 961800 danangbeachresort.com.vn 20 minutes from Danang airport, this resort is comprised of six villas, a 33–floor twin tower, three five–star hotels, a convention / commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang, Tel: 5113 847888 furamavietnam.com This venue has stunning beachside location. The smallest room measures 40 square meters — with a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

HUY HOANG 1

$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 5113 936741 huyhoang1-hotel.com A mere 0.025km from the city centre, in addition to simple and comfortable rooms. Truly an excellent base for exploring the old town.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: 5113 981234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

INTERCONTINENTAL DANANG SUN PENINSULA RESORT $$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang , Tel: 8884 246835

intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed hotel is nestled within one the region’s most exquisite locations.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 5103 545105 domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai houses a dozen modern villas with private gardens. There are endless beaches and an abundance of fresh seafood.

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG

$$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 5113 958888 lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, this exquisite resort has been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion.

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: 5103 914555 life-resorts.com This award–winning resort is located close to the bustling Old Town. With an emphasis on wellness and pampering, its spa combines traditional

Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang Tel: 5113 797777 mercure-danang.com Located on Green Island, in the heart of Da Nang city, the Mercure Danang offers modern style reflecting local Vietnamese culture. All day dining is offered at their brasserie and Chinese restaurant.

THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 5103 940000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH Resort and Spa

Cua Dai Beach Tel: 5103 927040 victoriahotels.asia This charming resort replicates a traditional fishing village, ponds, and village houses, all upon a private beach. Eat at the Annam Asian restaurant or relax

with Thai or Swedish massage.

Hue & Quang Binh ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: 0543 695800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: 0543 695888 banyantree.com/en/lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 0543 826567 hanoibackpackershostel. com Housed in a breezy, colonial

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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{ travel Promos } ** Promotions of the Month * *

Local Lang Co @Banyan Tree Lang Co, banyantree.com Banyan Tree Lang Co — part of Vietnam’s first world-class integrated resort, Laguna Lang Co — is offering prime rates for the local Vietnamese market. Enjoy the 18-hole, par-71 golf course designed by Sir Nick Faldo and lots and lots of water — like the pools of 32 lagoon pool villas or the villas on Canh Duong beach. These special rates start at VND5,145,000++ a night. Certain restrictions apply, the most salient of which is the offer’s expiry on Aug. 31.

Sweet Fifteen @Victoria Can Tho Hotel, victoriahotels.asia On the eve of its 15th luxurious year in the biz, the Victoria Can Tho in the heart of the Mekong is offering a quirky promotion

158 | Word June 2013

until October. Guests who stay on the 15th of the month rate a 15 percent discount on their stay, with fun giveaways also part of the draw. Or early-bird your way to 25 percent off by booking seven days in advance.

putting surface in the world”. The package starts at VND4.9 million net per person, based on twin occupancy, with massage add-ons and lady-specific options also available.

∞ Holes

NTTV + Edensee

@Dalat Edensee, dalatedensee.com For the rest of 2013, Dalat Edensee will be offering an Unlimited Golf package — and unlimited relaxation when you’re not on the links, with 40sqm of space, a private balcony and a marble fireplace to stoke when the crisp golf air rolls in off the nearby mountains. That’s all well and good for the package’s two nights, but the real draw is the two days of unlimited golf with caddie and buggy in Royale City, Edensee’s new “bent grass” green, featuring the “best

facebook.com/dulichdeluxe NTTV Travel, Vietnam’s leading high-end hotel booking service, is offering a free twonight stay at the five-star Dalat Edensee Resort and Spa in return for feeding your Facebook addiction. Just go to NTTV’s Facebook page and click on the prize-giving top-posted link with a ‘like’ or ‘share’. Once there are 1,000 combined likes and shares, a lucky winner will be selected for this charming getaway — and get a chance to really ‘like’ what NTTV is all about.

villa complete with bunk beds, in same or mixedsexed dorms, pool tables, and darts. This is the place to meet international travelers.

IMPERIAL HUE

$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 0543 882222 imperial-hotel.com.vn The Forbidden City meets modern luxury. This high– rise hotel has great city views, a fine selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 0543 837475 la–residence–hue.com Built around the former colonial governor’s mansion, with a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you’re in paradise.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 0543 826736 hoangphuonghotel.com A budget option hotel, the Phuong Hoang offers reliable service and comfort, in additional to superb views of the Perfume River.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP

$ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh chaylap.org Near the Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge is accessible by public transport. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking and cave diving. SUN SPA RESORT $$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh, Tel: 0523 842999 sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

Nha Trang EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 0583 522222 sixsenses.com/evason-anamandara-nha-trang/ 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: 0583 622384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: 0918 821633 mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary has its own private beach. With ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 0586 256900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY Ninh Van Bay

$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: 0583 728222 sixsenses.com/sixsensesninhvanbay/ The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG Hotel and Spa

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: 0583 880000 sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front property with six restaurants and bars, the Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool a fitness centre, a kid’s club, business centre, and a cooking school.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 0583 820999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn Awarded in Expedia’s World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009, the Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel and Spa is ideal for the diamond lifestyle. All rooms have a view of the sea.

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

$$ Tel: 0583 840501 whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island 60km north of Nha

Trang is a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and an excellent seafood restaurant.

WHITE SAND DOCLET Resort and Spa

$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 0583 670670 whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean upon a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants, a swimming pool and a spa.

Phan Thiet & Mui Ne ALLEZ BOO BEACH Resort and Spa

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 743777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 847322 life-resorts.com Under Life Resorts management, the Blue Ocean Resort includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar, a children’s activity playground, and an Irish bar.

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 847111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: 0623 847440 / 2 miamuine.com Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows overlooking the East Sea.

DU PARC PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES AND GOLF RESORT

$$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 822393 phanthietresorts.com A first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo, great food and service is offered at this 123–room escape destination with private balconies and ocean or golf views.

PRINCESS D’ANNAM Resort and Spa

$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 0623 682222 princessannam.com Set on Ke Ga Bay, with a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country.

SHADES APARTMENTS

$$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 0623 743237 shadesmuine.com Beachfront apartments and studios with a luxurious outdoor pool and jacuzzi, and entertainment options including windsurfing, kite surfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides.

VICTORIA PHAN THIET Resort and Spa

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 813000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

VILLA ARIA MUI NE

$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne Tel: 0623 741660 villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Mui Ne provides warm service, 22 spacious guestrooms, and one suite. The resort includes a pool overlooking the beachfront, and an alfresco dining lounge serving authentic Phan Thiet cuisine

Phu Quoc BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 0773 980998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

BO RESORT

$$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 0773 986142 boresort.com An eco-lodge with no televisions or air–conditioning, 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. The beachside restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a classic ‘French touch.’

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CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: 0773 995895 centarahotelsresorts.com This 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first– class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant.

LA VERANDA

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773 982988 laverandaresorts.com Among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery brand has beautifully–designed rooms, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant.

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalows lie within a beachside coconut palm plantation. The restaurant serves fresh seafood, the resort is laid– back and simple.

Sapa CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871218 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria include satellite TV, in–room cof-

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feemakers, a hilltop health club, tennis court, and pool. The entire resort has panoramic views of the town below.

Vung Tau & Ho Tram BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: 0643 351553 binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining, and a bar strategically located to watch the sunset.

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 0643 830939 condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island this beachfront resort has mini-golf, kayaking, and sightseeing tours via trams.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Tel: 0643 781525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: 0643 781631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau Tel: 0643 852135 rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge.

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel : 0643 831222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao/ 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

Tiêng viêt bài học từ những người đi trước

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Bài Học Từ Những Người Đi Trước Người làm chủ thương hiệu kềm làm móng nổi tiếng được biết đến dưới cái tên Kềm Nghĩa kể lại quá trình của mình từ bán hàng bên vỉa hè tới xuất khẩu ra nước ngoài. Bài viết bởi Ed Weinberg, dịch bởi Francis Xavier và Kim Chen-Garel, ảnh bởi Alexandre Garel

“Đ

ó cũng chỉ là ngẫu nhiên thôi.” Nguyễn Minh Tuấn, người đàn ông 51 tuổi chủ thương hiệu Kềm Nghĩa giải thích về quá trình hình thành của một trong những thương hiệu đứng đầu thế giới trong lĩnh vực làm móng. Như thể đây là con đường mà ai cũng có thể học theo được. Sau chiến tranh, rất khó kiếm được việc ở Việt Nam. Tuấn phải đi lao động chân tay nhưng thu nhập không ổn định. Chị của anh muốn giúp em mình nên giới thiệu anh tới làm mài kềm ở tiệm của minh. Anh đã từng làm gia công trước đó, nhưng chưa có công việc nào chuyên về một thứ như việc này. Nắm dược nhu cầu của khách hàng, cuối cùng cũng có được một việc anh có thể làm. Một vài tháng sau anh đi làm tại một tiệm ở quận 5 nơi anh học được tất cả các kĩ năng của mình, từ người đàn ông anh vẫn coi là thầy cho tới bây giờ. Anh đã tìm được đường đi của mình.

Định hướng đúng đắn

Sau khi đi thăm xưởng ở quận 1, anh thấy được công việc kinh doanh phải như thế nào, “với bàn ghế đẹp, áo quần ngăn nắp lịch sự, có thư kí, và một ly cocktail kế bên”. Anh dành một năm ở quận 5 để học nghề, sau đó chuyển đến quận 1 làm việc — nơi làm ra tiền thật. Ở quận 1, anh học được cách kinh doanh từ cái nhìn cùa người trong ngành. Họ không chỉ mài kềm mà còn bán cả những phụ kiện làm tóc và làm đẹp. Và họ cũng bán một thứ giá trị hơn cả sự tiện lợi và đa dạng sản phâm — dịch vụ khách hàng và sự tin tưởng. Tuấn đem theo nhưng tố chất này khi anh bắt đầu tự dựng nên sự nghiệp của riêng mình, mở một quầy bán bên vỉa hè gần nơi anh từng làm việc. Khởi đầu với số vốn chỉ khoảng hai trăm đô la, những năm đầu tiên khá vất vả với anh. Cho tới năm 1992, khi đã có đủ tiền vốn, tất cả bắt đầu từ đó.

Đột phá

Tuấn phân biệt quá trình phát triển của công ty cẩn thận và rõ ràng cũng như phân vùng thương hiệu của mình — “người nước ngoài thích màu xanh hơn”, tôi được nghe nói về nhãn hàng chỉ đem xuất khẩu Omni của họ không dung màu xanh lá ban đầu nữa. Anh đánh giá sự phát triển của Kềm Nghĩa theo từng giai đoạn mười năm. Mười năm đầu dành để phát triển kĩ năng của

mình. Lúc này đã là năm 1992, và đã tới lúc anh phải làm điều gì đó lớn hơn. Nghĩa Sài Gòn bắt đầu tự sản xuất loại kềm của riêng mình để hoàng thiện những khiếm khuyết của các loại sản phẩm kềm hiện tại ở Việt Nam — sản phẩm của Nghĩa rất bén và bền. Nhưng điều đáng nói ở đây là dịch vụ khách hàng của Tuấn, anh làm điều mà ở Việt Nam doanh nghiệp chưa từng nghe nói tới, cho đổi trả lại sản phẩm mà khách hàng không bị hao hụt tiền.

Nghĩa Sài Gòn bắt đầu tự sản xuất loại kềm của riêng mình để hoàng thiện những khiếm khuyết của các loại sản phẩm kềm hiện tại ở Việt Nam — sản phẩm của Nghĩa rất bén và bền. Nhưng điều đáng nói ở đây là dịch vụ khách hàng của Tuấn, anh làm điều mà ở Việt Nam doanh nghiệp chưa từng nghe nói tới, cho đổi trả lại sản phẩm mà khách hàng không bị hao hụt tiền. Anh cũng có những chiến lược thong minh khác như rất chú trọng vào tên nhãn hiệu từ ngay lúc khởi dầu. Cái tên Nghĩa là biệt danh của anh lấy đặt cho thương hiệu. Thay vì làm bao bì đóng dính lại với nhau, anh làm bao bì đẹp và có thể mở ra dễ dàng để khách hàng có thể thử sản phẩm trước khi mua. Mỗi sản phẩm đều được đóng tên thương hiệu trên đó, và cũng kèm theo cái tên hiệu tiếng Anh “budget” theo thị hiếu của người dùng. Cùng với quá trình phát triển của mình Kềm Nghĩa đã chiếm được tám mươi phần trăm thị trường nội địa, cũng có một vài may mắn xảy ra. Một điều không được đề cập đến nhiều lắm, nhưng vẫn là nhân tố giúp thương hiệu phát triển — đó là khi mọi người có nhận thức hơn về HIV/ AIDS, nên ai cũng muốn có một kềm cắt da cho riêng mình. Phần còn lại thì giống như câu nói xưa nay “thiên thời, địa lợi”.

Chiến thắng trên thị trường thế giới

Tại thời điểm đó, xuất hiện một hiện tượng mới của người Việt Nam làm móng trên thế giới, điều làm cho doanh số của Kềm Nghĩa tăng ba mươi phần trăm nhờ vào thị trường nước ngoài. Ở Mĩ, các Việt Kiều khi về đây thường mua một số đồ dùng, đặc biệt sau năm 1994 khi họ được trở về nước, lúc Kềm Nghĩa đã bắt đầu có danh tiếng. Sản phẩm của anh vừa chất lượng mà lại chỉ bằng một phần mười giá đồ nghề của tiệm ở mĩ. Các Việt Kiều bỏ đầy va li của mình với Kềm Nghĩa, bán lại chúng khắp nơi ở Mỉ, điều mà Kềm Nghĩa chỉ mới chính thức làm được từ năm 2006. Ngày nay, công ty có nhiều kế hoạch lớn cho tương lai. 10 năm hiện tại đang được dành cho việc mở rộng ra thị trường thế giới, và họ đã làm nhiều nghiên cứu thị trường kĩ càng. Phần Lan sẽ là điểm mở đầu cho sự lấn sân vào thị trường Châu Âu, và họ sẽ không dùng màu vàng hay xanh lá trong nhãn hiệu bán ở đó — với người Châu Âu màu vàng nhìn không sang trọng. “Điều này giống như muốn nói về sự thịnh vượng giàu có ở Châu Á mà không dùng màu đỏ vậy,” một trong những người dịch của tôi nói. Và, Kềm Nghĩa vẫn giữ vững nhiệm vụ của mình — tiếp tục cải tiến công nghệ, đào tạo những thợ tốt nhất và nâng cấp nhà máy của mình — để họ có thể tự hào khi đóng nhãn “Made in Vietnam” lên sản phẩm của mình, thứ mà người ta tìm kiếm khi họ mua sản phẩm làm móng. Cũng như những bộ móng đẹp được làm ra từ sản phẩm của Kềm Nghĩa, nơi sản xuất ra chúng cũng được thêm tiếng tăm nhờ chất lượng đáng tin cậy này. Người ta thường nói cái răng cái tóc là gốc con người, và móng tay của anh Tuấn không có điểm gì có thể chê được. Khi buổi phỏng vấn gần kết thúc, nhiếp ảnh gia của chúng tôi hỏi về móng ngón út dài của Tuấn, trong khi các móng còn lại đều ngắn. Tuấn nói đôi khi anh có những chỗ ngứa cần phải gãi, và anh nghĩ nên có một móng tay có thể làm điều đó.

Kềm cắt da và Đồ cắt móng

Kềm cắt da là một dụng cụ có đầu nhọn, hình như cây kéo dùng để cắt phần da ở móng để chuẩn bị cho lớp sơn phủ lên sau đó. Thoạt nhìn thì nó hơi giống dụng cụ tra tấn thời trung cổ, và cũng có thể dùng để cắt các phần móng chân dày. Đồ cắt móng là một dụng cụ phổ biến dùng để cắt móng. Vì nó chỉ phụ thuộc vào lực tay khi cắt, lưỡi dao thường không được sắc bằng.

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The Final Say Bob Sinclar / one too many / the last call

A Day With

Bob Sinclar Rarely do top DJs digress from the standard touring route to take in the humble environs of Vietnam. But one certain French producer and disc-spinner found his way to Ho Chi Minh City in early May. Photos by Alexandre Garel

f ever a show was to prove controversial, it was the one that brought A-list, world-famed DJ Bob Sinclar to Saigon. The issue wasn’t the name, it was the price. VND400,000 entrance to Blanchy’s Tash, VND2 million to get into the middle floor where Sinclar would take to the decks, and then over VND20 million for a table of 10, drinks included. Fortunately the naysayers and growlers out there were proved wrong. Arriving in Saigon on his birthday, Bob Sinclar proved such a sellout that queues appeared outside the venue long before he took to the decks. If anything had the look of a nightclub in the developed but bankrupt world beyond, it was this, the line of punters waiting to

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get in. Even the bouncers were out en masse. Word’s photo editor Alexandre Garel was tasked with following the big man around for the day. From just before the 2pm press conference, through the afternoon with massage thrown in for fun, during dinner and then into the early hours of the next morning at the after party at Last Call, Call, he he rarely left the guy’s side. The day was tiring, the promoters were nervous, and Sinclar was visibly fatigued. Yet the teetotaler and health fanatic acted the superstar part. “He was really down to earth,” says Alexandre with a smile. “He wasn’t big-headed at all and he was surprised to discover I was French. It provided a connection between the two of us.”

June 2013 Word | 163

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Short Story

One Too Many A corpse buried in a garden in Saigon leads to the discovery of three more and the unveiling of a long kept secret. Story by Rob Marsh. Illustration by Richie Fawcett

he house, which was large and detached and surrounded by a high wall, had been built in the 1920s for a French diplomat stationed in Saigon. When Detective Captain Tran Hai Duong arrived at the scene the forces of law and order were already hard at work. A doctor had confirmed the presence of a corpse, a photographer had photographed it and a dozen police officers had searched the surrounding area for clues. “The gardener discovered it, sir,” Sergeant Le said. The two men stood on the edge of a wide lawn, both smoking. In front of them the doctor was working among the trampled blooms of a flowerbed measuring a curve of grey-white bone that protruded from the earth. “I think this is a woman’s rib cage, gentlemen,” he said finally.

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“He led her to a flowerbed and stared down at the ground where he had been digging. A piece of old bone lay exposed. She looked at him — at his face, sweat-stained and dusty — at the bone, then back to him once more”

“How long has she been here?” Captain Tran asked. The doctor began peeling off his rubber gloves. “I don’t know, but three or four years at least, probably longer.” “What do we do now, sir?” the sergeant asked. Captain Tran glanced around the garden. “Did your men remember to bring their shovels?” he asked. Inside the house, Gabrielle Levron stood at the window watching the desecration of her property. She was a small, grey-haired woman of fifty-five. She bore an air of abstraction, was disorientated and vaguely light-headed, like an accident victim who has narrowly survived a brutal collision. It was not shock or horror she felt — that would come later — but surprise. “Please sit down, captain,” she said in perfect Vietnamese when Captain Tran came to see her. The detective noticed that the room showed evidence of good taste and not a little wealth: dark mahogany furniture, expensive bric-a-brac, heavy curtains. “You speak good Vietnamese,” he said. “Thank you.” “How long have you lived here, Mrs. Levron?” he asked. “Two years.” “And the previous owner?” “His name was Sylvain Aguillard. He was killed in a car crash soon after I bought the house.” “Do you know how long he lived here?” “Not exactly; about 20 years, I think.” “The doctor says that the body we’ve found has been here for about five years.” “During Mr. Aguillard’s time then,” she said. It had been a dreadful day. Just after breakfast, Mr. Dung, the gardener, had knocked on the kitchen door. His face was white. She asked him what he wanted, thinking that perhaps Stephane had inadvertently caused offence by using some of his precious tools. “Come with me, please,” he said and she had reluctantly followed him out into the garden. He led her to a flowerbed

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and stared down at the ground where he had been digging. A piece of old bone lay exposed. She looked at him — at his face, sweat-stained and dusty — at the bone, then back to him once more. “What?” “That,” he said, pointing, “is human.” She smiled at his jest, after all good gardeners were hard to come by, then saw his eyes, graven and serious. “You must be mistaken,” she said. “We must phone the police,” he answered and led her back towards the house. “Do you live here alone, Mrs Levron?” Captain Tran asked. “No, I live with my son, Stephane.” “And your husband?” “He left two years ago.” “Where is he now?’ “I’ve no idea. He ran off with a young Vietnamese woman; not his first affair, I might add. After he moved out Mr. Aguillard came to see me. François, my husband, had told him that the purchase of the house was off. It wasn’t — the money was mine — but François was that sort of vindictive man.” When Captain Tran left the house a short while later, he saw that a crowd had gathered around some bushes at the bottom of the garden. The doctor was the centre of attraction. He was bent double, picking at the ground with a trowel. “We’ve found another body, sir,” sergeant Le explained. Mrs. Levron was sitting in front of the television set when Captain Tran called on her again later that evening. Her son Stephane sat at the dining-room table. He was a tall boy with a thin, delicate face and dark swept-back hair. He had a number of mathematics books spread out before him, but they had hardly been touched. Three hours earlier he had stood ashen-faced and apparently petrified in the street outside the front gate before his mother had ushered him into the house. “So far we have found three bodies in your garden, Mrs. Levron,” the captain explained, “two women and a man, we think.” Then, while mother and son sat

holding hands on the sofa, he outlined the police procedures that would thereafter ensue. When he left the house Captain Tran found Sergeant Le smoking on the veranda. Behind him rain was falling in a solid sheet and the garden had turned into a quagmire. “We’ve found another one, sir,” Le said. In the living room Stephane went to the window where he stood watching the policemen make their way towards a distant corner of the garden. “I think they’ve found another body,” he said. Seeing his trembling tears his mother reached out and fiercely grasped his arm. “This has nothing to do with us, Stephane,” she said. “Do you hear me? Nothing!” “But mama…” She shook him violently. Angrily. “We said we wouldn’t speak of it again.” “I know but …” Her expression silenced him, “There are no buts, Stephane. Not this time.” When he had composed himself she said that there was nothing to worry about if he did exactly as he was told. Among the bushes the scarcely recognisable body of a man lay at the bottom of a shallow grave. The doctor moved round the body then crouched down and examined an area of the dead man’s skull. “This one’s had his head bashed in just like all the others,” he said. The post mortems established that the four killings had occurred over a fifteenyear period with the most recent body having been buried approximately two years before. And although the pathologist established that, in every case, death had been caused by a severe blow to the head, he was not able to explain why the first three victims had been buried naked, but the fourth was semi-clothed. Captain Tran began his investigation by circulating profiles of the four corpses; descriptions that included physical and dental characteristics, sex, age, stature and estimated time of death — and within two weeks he had three names. Victim Number

“Miss Khong had gone missing three years before while walking home from work and among Aguillard’s few remaining possessions the police discovered a pair of her earrings. Damning evidence indeed”

One was a local woman named Nguyen Mai Khanh who had worked as a waitress at a nearby restaurant. She had vanished eight years before. Victim Number Two — Vo Thanh Vinh, a carpenter known to have worked in the house — had been missing for five years, but it was Victim Number Three, Khong Minh Thao, a shop assistant, who provided the police with their first positive link to their prime suspect, Sylvain Aguillard. Miss Khong had gone missing three years before while walking home from work and among Aguillard’s few remaining possessions the police discovered a pair of her earrings. Damning evidence indeed and Tran’s superiors were naturally elated. Case solved, they declared, but something was troubling the captain. There were too many “loose ends”, he complained, not least of which was the identity of the fourth victim. Two weeks later, Captain Tran went to see Mrs. Levron and her son again. “I am here to notify you of the official inquiry,” he said. “Will we be called to give evidence?” Mrs. Levron asked. “Only you, not your son.” “And my husband, François? Is he to be there? Is he going to crawl from under his stone in order to gloat? Will he be at this inquiry, Captain Tran?” “Yes.” “Ah, so you’ve found him, have you?” “Not yet, Mrs. Levron, but I am confident that we shall.” When Stephane began to weep quietly his mother went immediately to his side and began gently stroking his head and whispering to him in a soothing way, but Tran could see that her own hands were also shaking. “I am sorry this is so distressing?” he said. “Yes, this is very distressing, Captain. I feel nothing for François. He was an abusive bully and a drunkard…,” which was exactly what Tran had heard — “and I do not look forward to seeing him again.” She bent down and kissed her son. “But he was Stephane’s father, and a son misses his father even though he was not a good man.” Stephane looked up to his mother and

grasped her hand tightly in his own. “On the night that he left me, I felt nothing but relief, Captain Tran,” she admitted. “Utter relief!” “And you Stephane?” Captain Tran asked. “My father was a cruel man, sir. He frightened me.” His voice faltered. “And I hated him.” “And the fourth body, Captain Tran?” Mrs Levron asked. “Have you identified the man yet?” “That’s proving to be more difficult than I expected.” “Do you know then when these poor people are to be buried?”

“She let him cry. After a time he wiped his eyes. He was staring at a small dent on the corner of the large dining table. There was an allbut imperceptible stain on the carpet beneath” “Arrangements are being made, I understand.” “Will you let us know the details, Captain? The least that Stephane and I can do is pay our last respects to them,” she said. The official inquiry lasted one day and the subsequent judgement surprised no one; Sylvain Aguillard had brutally murdered four people (one of whom remained unidentified), and had disposed of their bodies in his garden. After the judge had handed down his decision, Captain

Tran spoke to Mrs. Levron outside the courthouse. “We couldn’t find your husband,” he said. “I’m glad, captain. His absence has been our only consolation during this entire ordeal.” Only four people attended the funeral of the unknown man at Binh Hung Hoa cemetery — Captain Tran, Mrs. Levron, Stephane and a Buddhist monk who intoned the short service prior to the cremation of the dead man’s remains. During the ceremony, Stephane had stood, head bowed, while next to him, his mother, straight-backed and dry-eyed, had listened to words that held no meaning for her. Later, the two of them lit incense sticks in memory of the departed. “It’s over now, Stephane,” Mrs. Levron said when they were finally back home again. He looked at her, started to say something then covered his face and wept. She let him cry. After a time he wiped his eyes. He was staring at a small dent on the corner of the large dining table. There was an all-but imperceptible stain on the carpet beneath. “It’s finished,” she said. “I meant to hurt dad,” he blurted out. “I meant it. I couldn’t let him hit you any more.” “It was an accident, Stephane,” she said calmly. “You pushed him, he struck his head,” — she touched his cheek — “and we took care of him together.” Outside in the garden, late afternoon sunlight was filtering through the trees where they had once dragged her husband’s body across the lawn. “Now that the matter is finished I think we should go for a holiday,” she said brightly. “Down to the Mekong Delta somewhere. The change would do us both good...” This is a work of fiction. All names, characters and incidents are invented. Rob Marsh is the author of 30 published books (both fiction and non-fiction). He currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City

June 2013 Word | 167

the LAST CALL

The market in Vietnam… is totally unpredictable. I think I love that, well certainly at the beginning of the month. My cultural background… is

Russian, Moroccan, Israeli, French, American and Vietnamese of course. It has inevitably all rubbed in.

Creativity… is magical. To search into your inner self and to come out with something beautiful, to even understand inspiration, to discover resources you had no idea you possessed and to go further than you believed possible. That is creativity. I focus on necklaces because… they can accompany simplicity and are colourful, fun and interesting. My necklaces are the combination of many elements. These all come together in Harmony.

Using Asian influences… must

have started with an Asian man who changed my life. Since then I have been constantly attracted to Asian elements: those in the designs hung on houses, in the food that’s on my plate, the embroideries on Qipaos, the silk tassels hanging from lanterns, orchids in flower markets, wood carvings in temples. I could make necklaces from them all.

Elegance… and the quest for

beauty are my motto. In life, yes, but definitely in this adventure that is Harmony Necklaces. I aspire to give each person that chooses to wear my necklaces an immediate sense of elegance and grace. This is aided by the beautiful, precious, one-of-a kind materials that I use.

Sourcing materials… actually helps me with ideas.

It’s a bit like when people don’t plan a meal. They just open the fridge and do

168 | Word June 2013

Big, bulky and influenced by Asian design styles, Harmony Necklaces are the work of Dror Lam. Photo by Alexandre Garel

wonders with what’s in there. One of Harmony’s secrets is sourcing from all over the world. I am a traveller, and when I find myself in the old city of Jerusalem, the Marche St. Pierre in Paris, the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, or the WK flea market in Beijing, I can see it happening right then and there.

Vietnamese silver and buffalo horn… if purchased

correctly is excellent quality. Vietnam also has amazing craftspeople, and I am constantly inspired by what can be done with buffalo horn, silver, Jade and precious stones.

My mother tells me… to calm down and be Zen. Hahaha. Sorry! Not really listening. I admire… my kids for being

such amazing young human beings, writers who can captivate your soul with printed words, those who fight against human trafficking, Aug Sang Suu Kyi, The Obamas, Clint Eastwood, Coco Chanel, Angelina Jolie and all the gracious superwomen of this world.

If I could change one thing… you mean longer legs? Or a degree in psychology? I think longer legs!

I regret… nothing. Regret is the most useless form of expression. I avoid it. My future plans include… developing a gold collection

and spreading the beauty overseas.

I believe that… happiness is when what you think, say and do are all in harmony! No, seriously! To see Dror’s necklaces, go to harmonynecklaces.com