Word Vietnam April 2015 by Word Vietnam

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 4 2015 APRIL 2015 NOT FOR SALE

contents

wordvietnam.com

APRIL 2015

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094

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THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / Everything is Going to Be OK 050 / I Shot a Big Beer Ad

Really... maybe

Jon Aspin didn’t do acro-yoga

011 / The Big Five

054 / 40 Years After

Events to look out for this month

Two men look back on Liberation

056 / 50 Shades of Expat

BRIEFINGS

This month’s cover story explores the kaleidoscope that is expatdom

014 / Mystery Quest

A ride into the unknown

084 / A Streetcar Named Uber

016 / The Cabinet

Vietnam’s first LGBT museum exhibit

028 / The Prodigy

Nope, not the band. This is Vietnam’s best, four-foot-tall winger

016

Crowdsourcing public transit

ART 082 / Theatre for the People

Reading classic lines in an empty room

088 / Has Hanoi’s Art Scene Lost its Edge?

April Fool’s!

EAT & DRINK 094 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Aummee is worth returning to

096 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: Bo Bit Tet

098 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Sorae stands alone

100 / Street Snacker HCMC

The Best Banh Mi in Saigon

FASHION 102 / Le Retour des Beaux Jours

Yet another reason to look forward to summer

102

contents

108

122

182

139 / Food Promos

TRAVEL 108 / The Last Post on the Bugle

Yangon still knows its roots

038 / Overscene

114 / Hua Hin

Thailand’s royal paradise

122 / Destination Zero

149 / HCMC City Guide

La Résidence Hue reflects the past, and future

126 / The Motorbike Diaries

Part 1: Nostalgia

HANOI 040 / To-Do List 046 / Overscene 128 / Hanoi City Guide 130 / Bar Stool 132 / Recalling Hanoi 134 / Coffee Cup 136 / Top Eats

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HCMC 030 / To-Do List

158 / Ice Cream Bowl 160 / Top Eats COLUMNS 140 / The Alchemist 144 / The Therapist 146 / Medical Buff 148 / Book Buff

164 / Student Eye 166 / A World of Good 177 / Tieng Viet FINAL SAY 182 / Lotusland

An excerpt from David Joiner’s debut novel

184 / Dissecting the Double Standard

Don’t argue, don’t argue, don’t argue...

186 / The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War

Chapter 7 of Wilfred Burchett’s thrilling account

192 / The Last Call

Mark Wildblood is Vietnam’s original expat

152 / Business Buff 154 / Job Search 156 / Body and Temple 162 / The Empty Wok

192

CONTRIBUTORS

This month we asked Word’s expats, “What’s your lamest expat tendency?” JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer Never took classes, never learned. I don’t speak Vietnamese. I just know enough to get by. NICK ROSS Chief Editor I get frustrated when people refuse to understand my Vietnamese. I know my command of the language is far from perfect, but hell, it’s still pretty good. SIMON STANLEY Contributing Writer I say “lam on”, ”cam on” and “xin loi” way too often. I’m British — these are the first words we’re taught as kids. I’m also far too willing to queue. KATIE JACOBS Contributing Writer I still get annoyed when people drive really fast down the sidewalk to avoid a traffic light at peak hour — I now walk in a zigzag line so they can’t get past. KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor My biggest expat flaw would have to be my passive aggressive road rage. I rarely vocalise myself, but I’ll cut off or block anyone for the most frivolous reasons. ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor I beep my horn like a madman every time I see bicyclists wobbling into traffic, unable to keep a straight line. It’s usually just kids, and they usually look like they’re having fun. I feel like I’m gonna yell “You darn kids!” one of these days.

OWEN SALISBURY Contributing Writer Lamest is a hard question but overall, I’d say the fact that I’m convinced all other drivers are idiots while I zoom in and out of lanes at high speed, beeping and cursing. Maybe that has nothing to do with my expat status, actually... NIKO SAVVAS Online Editor My biggest expat flaw is probably my volunteer work at local orphanages. I currently spend zero hours a week there. So I guess I don’t volunteer at orphanages enough.

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor ed@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

HOA LE Staff Editor hoale@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

DAVID MANN Staff Editor david.mann@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer julie@wordvietnam.com

MARK ALLAN Website & Graphic Designer mark@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Marketing vy@wordvietnam.com

JON ASPIN Staff Writer jon@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

ADVERTISING BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRINH BUI Sales Executive trinh@wordvietnam.com

CHAU GIANG Area Sales Manager Hanoi giang@wordvietnam.com

DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Glen Riley, Trung Del, Katie Jacobs, Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, International SOS, Nicola Connolly, Simon Stanley, Harry Hodge, To Thu Phuong, George Burchett, Owen Salisbury, Dara O Foghlu, Csaba Molnár, David Joiner, Karen Hewell, Annalise Frank, Justin Hurst, Sawano Newell, Zanna McKay, Davnet McLaughlin, Ellen Gleeson, MJ Noel, Hannah Jefferys, Will Mekemson, Alex McCarl, Nick Le, Julian Talbot, Keith and Richie, Chris Ferry, Lana Matsuyama, Sandee Woo, Ramzi Musa, Bob Thompson, Megan Solga, Rebecca Morgan and Kerlon Souza

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JON ASPIN Staff Writer Much to my next-day chagrin, I still occasionally find myself in drinking establishments where the bargirl to me ratio is in no way a reflection of my level of attractiveness. I got to get some new friends.

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

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Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Võ Thị Kim Thanh Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Bao Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

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In đến 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cm In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú 71 – 73 – 75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Số ĐKKHXB: 99 - 2015 / CXBIPH / 38- 08 / LĐ QĐXB SỐ: 29 / QĐCN - LĐ. Ngày 30 / 03 / 2015. ISBN: 978-604-59-2901-8 SÁCH CHUYÊN QUẢNG CÁO In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy 2 năm 2015.

The prelude

named Patrick Leija, to be in charge of sales and marketing. A fluent Vietnamese speaker with a zest for life, Patrick first came to Vietnam in the late 1990s only for his trip to be cut short by a motorbike accident. If it hadn’t been for an airlift back to the US and emergency medical treatment, he would have lost his life.

the Salsa Man. It was his way of contributing to the community on his own terms. Unfortunately, Patrick’s health started to decline and in early 2014 he had a stroke. Then last month, on a trip back to the US, Patrick passed away. He was only 42. He will be sorely missed. His largerthan-life personality, his love of music and his generosity won him a lot of friends. He touched a lot of people’s lives and he played an important role in getting our magazine project off the ground. Patrick, thank you. We’re thinking of you. — Nick Ross, Chief Editor

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 4 2015 APRIL 2015 NOT FOR SALE

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

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0 years ago this month, two media types from an inconsequential little country called England started working on something a little more consequential (as if) — a publication that two-and-a-half years later became Word. After a couple of months they brought in a third partner, a gregarious Mexican-American

With Vietnam already in his veins, Patrick returned to Saigon and went into teaching. Various marketing roles came his way — including a stint with Corona — before he finally, briefly, got into the magazine trade. His magazine partnership with David Legard and Nick Ross didn’t quite work out. However, his legacy remained. Our first title was called Saigon Inside Out. Patrick took the photo for the first front cover and it was he who came up with the name. In early 2013 we published an article on Patrick — he was homemaking Dos Chiles salsa to his grandmother’s recipe. We called him

THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Model: Megan Dawn Solga

HAVE YOUR SAY DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK — FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM — OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM. NO MATTER HOW POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE YOUR THOUGHTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.

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DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM — WE’RE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS. CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 3 2015 MARCH 2015 NOT FOR SALE

Craft beers. Are you sure?

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Portraits of Vietnam (March 2015) Wow! Amazing front cover. Who took that photo? — BC

You guys have come so far over the past couple of years. You’re almost unrecognizable from the Word Magazine of the past. Love all the photos this month! — AB

SP EC IA L

Great issue. Some amazing photography in there this month. — PW

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

PH OT OG RA PH Y

I do wish you’d go back to supporting Britain as you formerly did. Any more of this tosh, month after month, of attributing so called “craft beers” to every country apart from England, is getting annoying and misleads readers. The hoppy, fruity, blah blah blah “craft beers” are merely new labels for the very beer I grew up with. Even the UK has been swept away by it all. When I was in UK in last October, I was amused to see that Greene King and other brands are now printing “craft beer” on their can and bottle labels. The best definition of craft beer I can think of is “a label currently applied in contemporary vernacular to describe hopflavoured traditional English bitter beers. The word ‘craft’ was applied due to such beers being produced in very small quantities in the United States for a new and small drinking market”. — AH

Some Praise! [via Word Vietnam Facebook Page] I came to know Word Vietnam when I visited my favourite coffee shop in Saigon a while back and the magazine really caught my attention. I immediately fell in love with the cover and even asked the owner for it because I know the magazine is not for sale. I literally spent lots of time reading every single article and you know what, I brought it back to the US so I could read it over and over gain. I just wanted you to know that Word Vietnam is one of the best magazines about Vietnam that I’ve had the chance to read. Beautiful, breath-taking photos and simple, well-written articles. You capture the best of Vietnam and our people by making the most ordinary things become extraordinary and compelling. The magazine is exactly what I, and many other readers I believe are looking for in an artwork that represents a whole culture and a country. — AD

the talk While other publications bombard you with outlandish lies, let us reassure you: Everything is going to be OK.

Rest Assured You’re going to get a raise at work. Your hard work and positive attitude are going to be recognised. It wasn’t easy to earn the respect and recognition you deserve, but soon you’re finally going to make it. You won’t have to worry about being stuck in an unfulfilling dead-end career anymore. The environment’s going to be fine, too. Things might be getting ugly elsewhere in the region, what with the carcass-choked rivers and unbreathable air and all, but that’s not Vietnam. Eventually they’ll figure something out — remember the Olympics in Beijing? Besides, people drive hybrid cars and turn off the faucets when they brush their teeth now. There’s no catastrophic climate shift staring us in the face, you can count on that. Let’s forget about glaciers and dead polar bears and talk about something that matters — your love life. As it turns out, that’s going to be fine, too. You’re going to find someone who appreciates your quirks and doesn’t mind your faults. Even if circumstances in your lives change swiftly and unexpectedly, your feelings for each other will stay the same. People aren’t essentially alone. There’s nothing in the world stronger than love. See, everything’s fine. Relax a little.

A Wonderful World THE TALK

THE LEAD

Everything is Going to Be OK April Fool’s?

t this time of the year, it’s important to be skeptical when you read. Publications are cranking out hoaxes left and right, and for once people don’t seem to mind when the media lies. In fact, they go bananas for it. When the BBC ran a story about the Swiss spaghetti harvest of 1957, people called in asking how to grow their own noodle trees. Sports Illustrated strained credulity even further in 1985 when it published an article about Sidd Finch, a baseball-playing Buddhist savant who threw the ball twice as hard as an average player. A week later, their offices were swamped with fan mail

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clamouring for more about the mysterious Tibetan prodigy. Word would never attempt to deceive its readers like this. While other publications may compromise their journalistic integrity for the sake of cheap buzz, this magazine has higher aims, such as the sale of advertising space. If Word published an article that was intentionally misleading, readers might suspect that its advertisers were also deceitful — perhaps that smiling doctor in the picture was actually a clumsy-thumbed delta bumpkin with a butcher’s delicacy. Don’t worry about any of that. Word is an honest, God-fearing family magazine. It is committed to integrity and truthfulness.

You live in a safe and happy place. The roads have been getting progressively safer for some time now, as motorists learn to drive in a sane and courteous manner. Queues at supermarkets and elevator lobbies are practically Singaporean in their precision. Everyone is punctual and polite, and petty theft is at an all-time low. At this point you’re probably thinking, “My goodness, the world sure is a fantastic place.” Well, it gets even better. That good health you’ve been enjoying recently? As it turns out, you’ve been consuming the exactly-perfect amounts of gluten, carbs, meth and vegetables. Your diet could literally not be improved. Neither could your exercise habits. All signs point to your strength and vigour increasing perpetually. Everything else is going to be wonderful, too. The old people will have the things that old people need, and jerks will stop being mean to animals. You will be late with the rent but the landlord won’t care. Your haircuts will be mostly successful. The drones will stop bombing sick people and children instead of the healthy, slightly older people they were supposed to bomb. The schools will be better and the bartender will learn how to make a goddamn White Russian. You’ll find a flattering pair of jeans. Bad things will stop happening to good people. You’ll finally get a moment to yourself to think for once. Yes, it’s all going to be just fine. — Niko Savvas

SUNDAY

APR.

Hanoi

DRAGON DASH ADVENTURE

Looking for more opportunities to get covered in dirt and bump into a bunch of man-made objects while running as fast as you can to highpowered house music? Look no further than Dragon Dash. Established by Dare Vietnam, a company that focuses on organising “sport events for the adventure lover”. They also say you should take the opportunity on Apr. 5 to “show your mental

HCMC

09-11

the big five

THURSDAY HCMC

BACK TO THE MOTHERLANZ

Too much Aussie and Kiwi music is never enough. Dubbed Motherlanz, this promises to be one ‘mother’ of an event with headliners Tiki Taane of Salmonella Dub fame alongside Anika Moa bringing on the awesome tunes at Cargo Bar. In honour of ANZAC Day, Risky Red, Mark Bowyer and Broken Rice Band, and

and physical strength through various activities including running, jumping, climbing and conquering every single challenge on their five-kilometer race!” We say why the hell not. An unmissable event for anyone interested in team camaraderie and well… getting dirty. Do you dare to enter the Dragon’s Den? For more info have a look at their site at darevietnam.com or email them at info@darevietnam. com. Group bookings attract a discount!

Keith Pavy and The Anzacs will deliver the patriotic spirit. The whole thing’s sponsored by Harley Davidson, so you can definitely expect it to be a highoctane event! Motherlanz starts at 7pm at Cargo Bar — 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Tickets cost VND250,000. For bookings and enquiries call Mark on 01238 422999

HANOI SOUND STUFF 2015

Three days of experimental music, art and film return to Hanoi from Apr. 9 to Apr. 11 with a line-up of artists from both Vietnam and overseas. Kicking off on the Thursday at Manzi Art Space (14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi), on

Hanoi

SATURDAY

the Friday Sounds Stuff moves to Hanoi Creative City (1 Luong Yen, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi) before ending up for the big finale at the Van Ho Exhibition Centre (2 Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi). To get the full lowdown, turn to page 40

GALAS AND BALLS

Two balls, two nationalities, different venues, but all on one night. You would have thought the Americans and the Australians would have a working relationship. Well, perhaps they do. But, if you do have to choose, here are the options. The AmCham Rock ‘n’ Soul Gala will be taking place at the JW Marriott, while the The Australiana Ball is descending on InterContinental Hanoi Westlake. For more information turn to pages 42 and 43

FRIDAY HCMC

THE BELGIAN BEER FESTIVAL

50 Belgian beers, live Belgian music, Belgian food and a hell of a lot of fun. The Belgian Beer Festival makes its Ho Chi Minh City debut at Cargo Bar, and

for a mere VND300,000 you can join in the festivities. To see more about the festival go to page 12. And to take part in our free ticket competition, check out page 32

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briefings

’m sat in The Cube Bar with Guy Balza and Jan Segers, both members of BeluxCham, the Belgium and Luxembourg Chamber of Commerce. Although it’s left unsaid, they’ve chosen the venue because it stocks three well-known Belgian beers — Stella Artois, Hoegaarden and Leffe. In the same way that the English will talk for hours about football, or the French will verbalise non-stop about wine, so Guy and Jan are talking about beer. Belgian beer. “Is beer the same to Belgians as wine is to the French?” I ask. It’s a question that starts an hour’s worth of conversation about a product that is dear to almost every Belgian’s heart. “The problem was we never had the ingredients to make wine,” says Guy. “So we started making beer instead. You can imagine, this person in this little place, this little village, he was probably not a premium brewer. He had a popular place in the middle of the street where they were brewing liquid, for beer. That’s basically how things developed.” “In fact each village, each small village had its own brewery,” says Jan. “And they had their own brewer brewing their own beers. And that’s what’s coming back again. These breweries were family breweries and now they’ve gotten more important and had expansion.”

A Matter of Tradition We’re here to talk about the forthcoming Belgian Beer Festival on Apr. 24 at Cargo Bar. But while a few comments are made about the festival during the conversation, such is the passion of both Guy and Jan that the focus mostly returns to beer. “Would you say Belgian beer is boutique beer?” I ask. “Yes,” says Guy. “It’s boutique beer. It was brewed in every village. Why? There was no way to transport the beer 100km away. It was impossible. So, you weren’t able to have a national brand. This was only possible when we had trucks that could move things from A to Z. Every village had their own breweries. And then of course, everyone started to brew beer their own way, and historically you can find that one particular beer was brewed by monks, another was brewed by a peasant.” Together with Jan, Guy recounts the story of Hoegaarden. It was originally brewed in the village of Hoegaarden, near Tienen in Flanders. In the 19th century, the village had 13 breweries and nine distilleries, all brewing white beer — witbier. But in 1957, the last local witbier brewery, Tomsin, closed its doors. Pierre Celis, a milkman who had grown up next to the brewery and sometimes helped with brewing, decided 10 years later to try to revive the style. He started a new brewery, called de Sluis, in his hayloft. Says Guy: “[Celis] restarted the process in a modern way and called his beer Hoegaarden. To produce Hoegaarden you need to build a brewery that is only able to brew Hoegaarden.”

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BRIEFINGS

HCMC

The

Last September the Belgian Beer Festival touched down in Hanoi. This month it makes its debut in Saigon Adds Jan: “They relocated the production of Hoegaarden from Hoegaarden to Jupille. The taste and everything was wrong. You need the specific microbiotics from the air in the area around Hoegaarden.” And this, according to both Guy and Jan is why, except for a few notable exceptions, Belgian beer is still brewed locally in Belgium. You need the air and the water of the specific area where the beer is brewed to get that unique taste.

Glassy Eyed I’m already on my third beer — a Stella followed by Leffe Blond before returning to Stella. Belgian beer is strong and I can feel the alcohol pulsing through my veins. As my head begins to spin the conversation moves from Trappist monks to beer glasses. Every Belgian beer comes with glassware designed for its own particular taste. At The Cube, note both Jan and Guy, they’re serving up

the beer in the correct glasses. “One of the problems,” says Guy, “is education. A lot of Vietnamese are drinking Belgian beer now, but they don’t know anything about it. At the festival we want to educate people on Belgian beer.” As Guy says this, both he and Jan break out into a broad smile. You can see from their expressions and you can tell from their passion — they’re looking forward to this one. — Nick Ross The Belgian Beer Festival hits Cargo Bar — 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC — on Friday, Apr. 24 from 6pm. Entrance is VND300,000 in advance and VND500,000 on the door, and includes two free beers. As well as having over 50 Belgian beers for you to taste, there will be live music, food and entertainment. To buy your tickets email info@beluxcham. com or call (08) 3822 4029. For more info click on belgiumbeerfestival.com. Or, to win free tickets, turn to page 32

briefings BRIEFINGS

HANOI

Mystery Quest

The creatives behind Quest have put on some of Vietnam’s most unforgettable festivals. Now, in their fourth edition, they’re asking us to trust them

fter three successful parties in the wilderness of paradise, Quest is taking the concept where they’ve been pushing it all along — into the unknown. This latest iteration is an intimate affair as far as precedent goes, with maybe half of last Quest’s 1,000 attendees turning out. But as far as what kind of intimacy, they can’t tell you. You’ll just have to trust them. Organiser Jeremy Wellard feels this is what the Quest experiment has been

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building toward all along. “We’re taking a risk here, but we wanted to see what would happen if we really go out on a limb, and [more] importantly if we were to say ‘no’. No, we will not tell you the location, the lineup, the intimate details. No, you cannot drive yourself there. Instead we’re challenging our audience to trust us to do something amazing.” In the lead-up to the last Quest, I wrote some fluffy words about festivals like Quest being “a celebration of that fluttery

feeling you sometimes get on a good night, by and for those who find their truth in watching the sun come up”... on and on into cringe-infinity. And then I drove out to Quest, skidded on some highway gravel at 50km/h, and on arriving the next day became known as the guy whose arm was covered in bloodcoloured Betadine. Suffice it to say, I didn’t have the time I was hoping for. When I chatted with Jeremy on the phone, I told him about my experience,

and how I’d wanted to interact with the festival in a different way than by dancing. He said that was exactly what they were trying to do. “The idea behind holding a ‘mystery’ event is to see if we can take our audience on a journey with us,” he later wrote me. “Our previous events have helped us build a reputation for delivering quality

weekend festivals based around music and activities. Now we want to begin to challenge ourselves, and [challenge] our guests to step further out of their comfort zone. “We are very keen on expanding our programme to focus on a deeper range of experiences. Of course Quest will stay a music festival with a really exciting

programme of DJs and local live bands, but we are also building a great programme of workshops and arts activities, diverse performances and lots of different ways for people to participate.”

One Cat Out Musical director Luke Poulson dropped a hint on Quest’s Facebook on Mar. 25: Photos by Thuy-Tien Nguyen / andofotherthings.com

“This Quest we’re happy to have one of Vietnam’s premier disco divas bringing re-edits, classics and pure boogie selections to our very special Lucid Lounge... At the last Quest we provided a mini area for left field, funk, disco, chill, hip-hop and dub music — this Quest we have expanded the area to make a toe-tapping garden delight.” In an email, he gave us a little more. “[We're] stoked to announce a major festival headliner who will be joining us from the UK... we have stripped things

down and gone right back to what it’s all about — having an absolute blast to pure party music. Do yourself a massive favour and catch this act.” Jeremy’s hints are a bit more cryptic. “We also want to encourage people to explore the festival site and find new things, hidden secrets. Not everything will be laid out and easy to find. Some parts of the festival will require people to go on a little journey, or look for clues and see where that path through the trees leads.”

But he’s got to be cryptic, as Quest is gearing up to be the kind of festival that will depend on us. “Festivals can be amazing experiences for open-minded people willing to put their trust in each other and the organisers,” he writes. “We want to fill this festival with those types of people.” — Ed Weinberg Quest Festival will be somewhere outside of Hanoi, from Apr. 10 to Apr. 12. Sign up for the ride at quest.bigtime.vn — and hurry! Ticket sales end Apr. 3

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briefings

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

The Cabinet

LGBT issues are gaining increasing attention in Vietnam, as witnessed by last month’s exhibition at the Vietnam University of Fine Arts

ilhouettes on stands line one wall of Hanoi’s first-ever LGBT museum exhibition. Their darkly outlined bodies twist in agony or stand defiantly, filled with symbolic items each artist chose to draw: shackles around the ankles, cascading pills, stick figures holding hands. These images are among the first seen on a visit to The Cabinet, an NGO-sponsored, government-approved exhibition that tells the stories of more than 70 lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender people in Vietnam. Full of donated everyday items, letters, clothes and photos, each exhibit represents a memory or embodies an experience. Hugging figurine salt-shakers and ao dai share space with hormone pills and a slashed teddy bear. Coloured placards placed in front of each display represent one of four themes: red for ‘identity’, blue for ‘sorrow’, yellow for ‘pride’ and green for ‘sharing’. A drawer in each exhibit’s stand opens to reveal the accompanying text. Recorded interviews, short documentaries and interactive iPads

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allow visitors to explore the exhibit further. “For the design [of the exhibition] we talked about coming out of the closet, about what LGBT people today want, feel and have,” says Pham Khanh Binh, a programme assistant for LGBT issues for iSEE, one of the organisations that collaborated on the exhibit.

A Long Journey The Cabinet ran until Mar. 31, but its journey began in 2009 when curator Dinh Thi Nhung started collecting objects for an archiving project with the Centre for Creative Initiative in Health and Population. The Unstraight Museum in Stockholm and the Swedish Institute stepped in, and they worked together for years to make the exhibition happen. “I think we wanted to tell the differences between LGBT experiences and straight ones, but also the similarities,” says Nhung. “Telling something so personal is difficult for everyone. I want people, when they read, to see themselves in the stories.” Being gay goes against the roles carved out for most young people in Vietnam, and

Dao Mau One glass case in the centre of the exhibition holds a collection of ornate jewellery lent by Hao Vu, 30, a doctor and medium who lives in Hanoi. The antique earrings and strings of beads belonged to Vu’s uncle, a medium under the Dao Mau (Mother Goddess) religion.

Photos by Julie Vola

no parent wants to see their child grow up ‘abnormal’ and ‘unhappy’, says Pham Huy Thai, a 19-year-old Hanoi University of Science student who visited The Cabinet. The stories show that parents’ intentions, while they could be good, hurt LGBT youth in the long term. “They cannot live for themselves,” Thai says. One silhouette figure’s brain holds a cage surrounded by ivy. In the cage the word “tam than,” or “insane,” is written. The figure belongs to Tieu Nhat, born in 1991, whose family took him to a psychiatric centre when they discovered his orientation. “Only when Nhat… promised not to love men anymore was he allowed to go back to school,” the placard under the silhouette reads. While Tieu Nhat’s figure was allowed to be part of the exhibition, some objects were deemed too sensitive to display — like a razor blade, needles used for silicone injections and a marriage certificate with two women’s names. In response, empty stands and display cases are scattered across The Cabinet — subtle reminders of just how far LGBT rights have to go in Vietnam.

Vu’s uncle was a “dong co,” or “effeminate medium,” and Vu inherited his abilities. In Dao Mau, men can be possessed by goddesses for certain rituals that require wearing feminine clothing and makeup. “It was a taboo topic in my family — no one wanted to talk about my uncle, and they even prevented their kids from going to see him,” says Vu. It was acceptable for Vu’s uncle to represent female spirits, but he lived his personal life underground, in loneliness.

Dao Mau is an essential part of Vietnamese history, Vu says. It was a bold move to include it in the exhibition, because it shows that some of the country’s ancient traditions were accepting of LGBT. “Let society see that we are not sickos, we are just normal,” he says. “But we cannot achieve that yet. A lot of organisations have to stand together and make it happen.” — Annalise Frank The Vietnam University of Fine Arts is at 42 Yet Kieu, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

wordvietnam.com | April 2015 Word | 17

briefings

Catalyst Foundation

Charity of the

Month

nderneath the oft-blinding lights of progress and the glare of globalisation that is Vietnam today, it’s easy to lose sight of the fact that ‘out there’, beyond the duplex towers, beer clubs and mini-marts, there are still some pretty hardcore problems in this country. One such issue is human trafficking. The Catalyst Foundation has been on a mission to fight this form of slavery since they started in 1999. They’ve been tackling it one community at a time, and their latest project brings them just a little south of the holiday hotspot of Nha Trang, and into the province of Ninh Thuan.

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There, along the side of a busy road, the Raglai ethnic minority group — comprised of about 100 families, including 176 women and 165 girls — have been living well below the poverty line for generations. Denied the right to education because of their ethnicity (they don’t speak Vietnamese and instead rely only on their indigenous language), their cycle of poverty is entrenched. The result is that over 90 percent do not have a safe and proper home, 78 percent have no access to clean water and only 4 percent of the women have ever gone to school. Of those women who have, none have progressed beyond the fifth grade. To put their poverty in perspective, they’re somehow each surviving on about VND20,000 a week, an income mainly derived from picking up, drying and then selling dung from water buffalo.

It Starts with Poverty Founder and director Carolyn Nguyen Ticcarro-Parker has been at the helm of the Catalyst Foundation since day one. She understands better than most the reality of the Raglai’s situation and says it’s this type of extreme poverty that opens up the possibility of children being sold. In conversation with her after a weeklong visit to the country — one of the average five annual trips from the US she

has been making to her former homeland since she started Catalyst — she said that when faced with such crippling poverty, families were tempted to sell their children for as little as VND3 million. It’s a heartbreaking statistic, but a real one, albeit with an unlikely sounding villain. “The traffickers are middle-aged women — brothel owners,” she explains. “They don’t look like bad guys to the families at all. Usually taken to other provinces, the children end up illiterate, uneducated and without identity cards, so they literally can’t ‘go home’.”

A Problem of Education The exploitation has even been perpetrated by foreigners. Carolyn cites a recent incident where so-called tourists came to “take photos” of the Raglai’s homes, and then offered the families VND20,000 each in return for the children taking off their clothes. “They took the money because even though the mothers panicked, its still more than a week’s wages,” says Carolyn. “Then they called us.” Education is the key, she says, for parents, police and the wider community. “What we really want to emphasise is that when our communities get access to basic human rights — water, education, housing and health care — they stop being at such risk.”

Photos provided by the Catalyst Foundation

That’s what Catalyst are doing, building schools, housing and wells for clean water. They then work with local partners in healthcare to provide basic medical exams and vaccinations, and business partners to provide training and break the cycle of poverty.

What You Can Do Annually Catalyst runs a variety of volunteer tours for people who want to come to Vietnam and do something meaningful and impactful with their time. From gardening to building to teaching, there are lots of opportunities to help the project leaders and social workers on the ground. Wary of the pitfalls of ‘voluntourism’, Carolyn says her volunteers work directly alongside the community members. They are expected to be physically fit and work for a minimum of three days. “We don’t allow people just to turn up and take a photo,” she says. “They pay their own way there and they really get to know who they’re helping, because they’re working with them side by side. And we always need lots of people because we have ambitious projects. It’s our volunteers who show our community that people do actually care.” — Jon Aspin To get involved click on catalystfoundation. org. Tours are presently being put together for April and June. You can also apply for a volunteer internship or camp counselor position

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briefings BRIEFINGS

HCMC

In Transition: Thu Thiem The latest development phase has started, which means itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to burn down the jungle. Words and photo by Nick Ross

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n the 1930s, French urban planners looked at the possibility of extending Saigon to the other side of the river. But with the construction and architectural techniques available to them at the time, they decided that building on the swamp and marsh land would be a risk. The project to develop Thu Thiem, the junglecovered area on the undeveloped side of the Saigon River, was quickly binned. Fast-forward 80 years and the development is moving apace. With plans concreted for the new project, it started with the razing of homes along Luong Dinh Cua, the road linking the now defunct Thu Thiem

ferry with the rest of District 2. Then in 2013 one of the developers — Dai Quang Minh — moved in, sectioning off a large area of wetlands to develop a new suburb, Khu Do Thi Sala. In February, Dai Quang Minh signed an additional contract to build four roads and 12 bridges, at a total cost of VND12,182 billion (US$569.4 million). With completion expected within 36 months, the result has been more destruction — this time the heavily jungled wetlands area between Tran Nao and the road leading to Thu Thiem Bridge. One cursory glance at the debris left

behind and you can see the challenge. According to some estimates, to build on the 657 hectares of Thu Thiem the land will need to be raised by 3 metres. Then there’s a question of all that water and the natural waterways. The water needs somewhere to go. If it gets trapped, then this will affect the foundations of the roads and buildings built above. For Ho Chi Minh City to expand in all directions, the success of the Thu Thiem New Urban Area project is vital. Let’s just hope that the developers remember the greenery. Every city needs to breathe, and this one is no exception.

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briefings

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

The Building The Hong Bang-era citadel, Co Loa, houses more than just pagodas and excavated walls

hen I first saw this abandoned building in Co Loa, 15km from central Hanoi, I thought it was the film studios that were once at the heart of the Vietnamese film industry. The way it was built made this structure look like a school, but the 1960s-era architectural embellishments suggested something else. It was too good for a school. With no help from Google Maps and even less help from other content online, I wrote about the place and described it as potentially being the once famous film studios in Co Loa. Although I was clear on one thing — I wasn’t sure. A recent visit made me realise my error. It was just after Tet and with the temples of Co Loa a favourite pilgrimage spot, the front yard was being used as a car and motorbike park. “What is this place?” I asked the older of

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the two parking attendants. “It used to be a middle school,” he replied. “So not the film studios.” “No, not the film studios. They are way over in that direction.” “How do you get there?” At that the conversation tapered off. He was obviously not one for providing directions. Co Loa is in the countryside, and here there is space — a lot of space. Land is not at a centre-of-the-city premium. So for people like me who pleasure in wandering the empty rooms, the falling-down staircases and the overgrown gardens out back, this building is a dream. But more importantly, unless there is an urgent need of this land — which is unlikely — for the foreseeable future this building will stay. Go take a look. It could even be haunted. — Nick Ross

briefings Photos by Trung Del

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

Banh Mi 25

A banh mi stall in Hanoi gets the top restaurant rating on Trip Advisor

huong Nguyen knows his banh mi. That might not sound new in a country that claims to make one of the best sandwiches in the world, but in Hanoi, where banh mi is far more ubiquitous than pho, Phuong’s sandwiches are causing quite the stir. From his humble stall, Banh Mi 25, located in the heart of the Old Quarter at 25 Hang Ca, Phuong has been doing a roaring trade since opening just three months ago. In fact, Phuong’s banh mi has garnered so much attention that Banh Mi 25 has since sailed to the top spot on TripAdvisor, outperforming the top eateries, bistros and street food haunts in the city. So what does Phuong think of his newfound success? “To me it doesn’t matter whether we’re number 5 or number 50, the only thing I care about is that I’m making people happy with my food,” he says with a subtle smile sneaking across his face. Describing his customers as “happy” is probably an understatement when it comes to the reaction Phuong gets from his bangin’ banh mi. 26-year-old German traveller Jorg Oberlander, who has spent the last 8 weeks travelling from Saigon to Hanoi, says Phuong’s banh mi day du is the best banh mi he’s tasted in Vietnam. “The bread is incredible and the filling inside is so much better than anything

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else I’ve tried in a banh mi — and for only VND20,000, it’s amazing!”

The Formula So, what distinguishes a good banh mi from the rest? “The bread is really important,” says Phuong. “With most banh mi you get, the bread is way too big.” His answer to this problem is a sensibly sized baguette custom-made to specifications and using a jealously guarded family recipe. The smaller variation bread also provides the perfect foundation for the high-hitting ingredients, ranging from handmade pates and sausages, to specially cured French ham and barbecued pork. The finishing touches of vegetables and specially made sauces (derived

from the fat that sizzles off the pork when it’s barbecued) tie all of these elements together into one formidable banh for your buck. “The most popular option among my Vietnamese customers is the banh mi xa xiu (pate, barbecue pork and vegetable; VND20,000), whereas foreigners really like the banh mi day du (pate, barbecue pork, French ham, sausage and vegetable; VND25,000),” he says, pausing to chat with a group of curious pedestrians. But it’s not just the sandwiches themselves that are proving a hit with Phuong’s customers. Phuong’s family, who have made banh mi in the same spot for nearly 80 years, are also a big drawcard for foreigners wanting to get a ‘local’ experience. “My family has been running their businesses here for nearly 80 years,” says Phuong. “My father used to make banh mi after learning how to make meat and bread from the French.” In addition to Phuong’s banh mi cart, the modest tubehouse is also home to Phuong’s mother’s lock shop and his uncle’s tea shop — which offers diners free tra da with their banh mi. Did we also mention that you get a free banana for dessert? Not bad for VND20,000. Not bad at all. — David Mann

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Sports Digest SPORTS DIGEST

NATIONAL

Gaelic Ladies From the sidelines, Harry Hodge sizes up Vietnam’s month in sports. Photos by Glen Riley

hough women in Ho Chi Minh City have plenty of options for individual sports and fitness, — yoga, running, dance classes and more — listings for female teams are less common. The Ladies’ Saigon Gaels aim to change all that. Gaelic football is a fast game that involves running, kicking, handballing, soloing (kicking the ball to yourself while running) and a bit of tackling (similar to

a basketball tackle). Goalkeeper and sometimes spokeswoman Mairead Scanlon says the club works on different skills at each training session, and the majority of the players had never even seen the sport before joining. The Ladies’ Saigon Gaels started training alongside the Vietnam Swans Australian Rules Football Club in November 2013, which boosted membership from eight to about 18 in a few months. This has gradually

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grown to around 30. Last year the women played Hanoi twice, and also competed in the South Asian Games and Asian Games, winning the junior plate in both. At the end of the year, the Gaelic side officially became a part of the Vietnam Swans Australian Rules Football Club. “We currently have an active membership of around 30 girls that train and play,” Mairead says. “We are always recruiting new players, and welcome

people from all backgrounds and all skill levels. The team currently consists of Irish, Australian, English, American, Canadian, Welsh, South African and French players. “There is a position for everyone — whether you have great ball skills from other sports, or come from a nonsporting background, we try to help girls to develop their skills and focus on their strengths,”

Japanese Side Poor Hosts for Becamex Binh Duong Becamex Binh Duong were thrashed 1-5 by hosts Kashiwa Reysol in a second round match of the Asian Football Federation (AFC) Champions League in Kashiwa, Japan, earlier last month, writes Vietnam News. Two goals late in the first half — one by Masato Kudo and an own goal by David Vrankovic — set up Reysol to dominate the match, and later goals from Kim Chang-soo, Kudo and Hidekazu Otani ensured that the 2013 semifinalists claimed all three points.

Row, Row, Rowing to Glory Vietnam won three gold medals at the Asian Cup 1 Regatta held in Singapore, according to Vietnam News. Le Thi An and Pham Thi Hue finished first in women’s doubles, while Nguyen Van Linh defeated his rivals from the Philippines and Singapore to win gold medal in the men’s individual race, and Pham Thi Thao and Ta Thanh Huyen won the gold in another women’s doubles race. Vietnam bagged three more silver and three bronze medals in the tournament.

Martial Artists Get Their Kicks in Philippines Vietnam’s women’s taekwondo team won one gold medal and two bronzes at the AsiaPacific Taekwondo Invitational Championships, which wrapped up last month in the Philippines, according to Vietnamplus.com. Truong Thi Kim Tuyen, who got a bye in the first round, won the next three rounds in a row to take gold medal in the 49kg category. Two bronze medals went to Ha Thi Nguyen in the 67kg division and Pham Thi Thu Hien in the 57kg class.

Life’s a Beach for Volleyballers Mairead says. “Our group is very inclusive, and is a great way to make new friends, whether you are new to the city or have been here for years and are looking for something different.” The club’s next tournament is the South Asian Gaelic Games in Bangkok in May, with teams from Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam and Myanmar. The biggest weekend of the year for the Gaels is the

Asian Gaelic Games in Shanghai in late October, which sees over 60 teams from all across Asia compete in men’s and women’s Gaelic football and hurling. The Ladies’ Saigon Gaels train twice a week; Tuesday nights from 6pm to 7.30pm, and Saturday afternoons from 1.15pm to 2.30pm at RMIT. Contact Mairead Scanlon or team captain Siobhan Synnott at ladies.saigon. gaels@gmail.com for details about registration and fees

Nguyen Thi Thanh Tram and Pham Le Tuyet Ngan won the women’s title at the National Beach Volleyball Tournament, held in the Central Highlands province of Dac Lak (where there are obviously a lot of beaches). Nguyen Trong Quoc and Nguyen Thanh Vinh were the tes upda men’s winners. Sendout yourp or 48 players ab g grou @ in ry from across the sportnt to har .com m e a v country took part e vietn word in the tournament.

wordvietnam.com | April 2015 Word | 27

briefings

BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

The Prodigy After years of hope, Vietnam finally has its future sporting hero. His name? Anh Tuan

nh Tuan is a talented young man. So talented, in fact, that his story is drawing the attention of football fans from Vietnam to Vines Cross. The reason? Tuan has achieved a first — at the tender age of eight he has become the first Vietnamese footballer to sign with Arsenal, an English football club that, says Tuan’s father, “never quite wins anything but usually gets close.” This is something that Duong Duc Phat, the 28-year-old buffalo herder from Binh Dinh, hopes his son will change. “I wanted Liverpool to come forward for him,” he explains. “They win everything. But being at Arsenal is probably better for Tuan. It’s a challenge. I’ve told him that he’s got to help them win the EPL by the time he’s 16.”

Humble Beginnings Anh Tuan’s bright future — he leaves for England in the summer — belies the humble circumstances of his past. Born to a farming family living in the mountains, not too far from Qui Nhon, it was only his mother’s clever bargaining skills on the buffalo trading market that enabled him to go to school.

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When Anh Tuan was three, his mother, Lan Hong, convinced a foreign NGO that her family’s generational poverty warranted substantial aid. As a result she received two young buffalos of mixed genders. She bred them and cared for them until they reached full maturity at the age of two years, while husband Duc Phat drank away the annual rice yield in the form of homemade moonshine. After fattening the family buffalo to their maximum size, Lan Hong went to the monthly buffalo fair and made a tidy profit. She then returned to the NGO and claimed her buffalo had been stolen. Saddened by her convincing story, the NGO bought her another pair. All of this benefitted the young Anh Tuan, who was sent to school where he joined the youth football squad. So adept was he at his newfound love, that at six years old he was running circles round the seniors, and by the age of seven, he was asked to play in the junior U14 team for V-League side Binh Dinh. The contract Anh Tuan just signed with Arsenal is worth a total of £2 million (VND66 billion). It will enable his mother, father and two sisters to move to the UK while he learns his trade as a soccer player.

Future Endeavours “I can’t wait to move to the UK,” says Duc Phat. “But I’m worried about the alcohol they sell over there. I hear that all the beer is refrigerated. I can’t think of anything worse.” Lan Hong is more optimistic. “I’m going to set up a buffalo meat restaurant,” she says. “It’s a local speciality and I’ve heard they like Vietnamese food in the UK.” But for little Anh Tuan, living so far away from home is a challenge. The only English he has learnt so far is on the football pitch and from watching football on TV — a vocabulary of swear words and obscure sports terminology that will likely prove useful but limited on the streets of Islington. Nonetheless, he is confident. “If all of those other foreigners playing in England can’t speak English, then it doesn’t really matter,” he says. “I only need English to play football and I already know words like ‘goal’, ‘offside’ and ‘oy, ref’. So, it should be easy.” Adds Duc Phat: “I’ve heard that a team called Manchester United is buying players for stupid amounts of money. After we’re all settled in London, I’m going to sell Anh Tuan to them for a mountain of dong.” — Kerlon Souza

Dr. Damien

Emergency specialist

Dr. Minh

Ear, Nose & Throat

Dr. Phuc

Paediatrician

Dr. Thao

Paediatrician

Dr. Nakajima

General practitioner

For all your our healthca healthcaree need needs,, 24 hours a d da day, ay, yy, 365 days days a year HANOI: 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Dist. Tel: +84 4 3934 0666 HCMC: 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist. 3. Tel: +84 8 3829 .8520 VUNG TAU: 1 Le Ngoc Han. .Tel: +84 64 385 8776

wordvietnam.com | April 2015 Word | 29

to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

The Month in Observatory With a recent move to District 4, The Observatory has been throwing off the chains of downtown respectability in an unprecedented way. All parties take place at the new late night hub of 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC, starting around 10pm Timmy Regisford

Saturday 11 Timmy Regisford “Timmy Regisford is, simply put, one of the great legends of dance music,” says DJ authority Resident Advisor. That quote lays out the basics. His house and disco-like productions burst with a dance-focused nuance that only years of experience behind the decks can provide. Free before midnight, VND150,000 after.

Sunday 12 Goethe-Institut and The Observatory Present: Berlin Club Night Berlin Club Night is a global institution that takes the German capital's approach to clubbing presented around the world. In the first such night to be held in Saigon, The GoetheInstitut has invited three highly acclaimed Berlin-based artists and DJs to perform at The Observatory. Free entry all night long.

Friday 17 Eclectic Aesthetic & Optimist Club 2-Year Anniversary EA&OC mark two years of parties with a big night

of music — both electronic and organic — and the usual unusual decorations. Headlining the night is Romi B, deep-diving house and techno connoisseur. Get down and hear the bangs because they will be big. Free before midnight, VND100,000 after.

feels and acts like a party. Free before midnight, VND150,000 after.

Saturday 25

Saturday 18

Tung Tim

Dicky Trisco Disco master, definitive boss of the dance floor and co-founder of Disco Deviance — one of the most respected Disco edit labels around — Dicky Trisco has long been involved in the production of floor-shaking sounds that are frequently used by DJs everywhere to get things moving. This night will have music that sounds,

Dicky Trisco

Friday 24 Cheezy Gangztaz Feat. Nick Simon and Mike Pham Saigon’s favourite DJ duo are back in the booth to lay down

Cat of the Month

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their signature mix of funk, soul, hip-hop and trip-hop, this month joined by Nick Simon and Mike Pham who’ll be throwing down some extra spice of nu-hop, trap and rock. Free before midnight, VND100,000 after.

A Hanoi-based DJ and producer who has featured in past Quest Festivals, Tung Tim has gained a reputation in the city’s growing underground electronic scene as a figure that can shift between all sorts of dance-focused styles — from space disco to heavier techno — at just the right time. Free before midnight, VND100,000 after.

eighing in at one year and two months — or 16.7 kitty years — Trish is one of the very rare females of the ginger persuasion. Add dreamy caramel eyes, a cute kinked tail and the map of Australia she’s got on her left side (minus Tasmania), and you’ve got a true original. Though grown up, she looks like a kitten, and behaves like it. She plays until exhaustion, until she lies panting on the cool floor tile. When she’s gotten the crazies out of her system, she loves to curl up on your lap and suckle on your arm. She’s active, spayed, fully vaccinated and waiting for you to take her home today. Contact arcpets@gmail.com to make your date with kitty destiny.

SATURDAY

SUMMER PROGRAMME INFO DAY AT RENAISSANCE

SUBSTITUTING SUGAR

Head down to Renaissance International School Saigon’s Information Day for a glimpse at what their three-week summer programme has in store — at a Los Angeles-based university in the US. From their base at Occidental College, students will get a chance to have firsthand experience of leading US universities like University of California, University of Southern California and Claremont

Do you feel like your children are eating too much sugar but you don’t know how to control it? Take your children to health coach Chiara Squinzi’s seminar at Thao Dien’s The Loop café and help them learn all about sugar. The 75-minute-long talk includes an explanation of sugar types as well as the reasons for and dangers of sugar addiction. Listen as Chiara gives practical

College, and explore Los Angeles with fun trips to Universal Studios, Disneyland and the Hollywood Walk of Fame. Total cost for the Renaissance Three-Week Summer Programme is US$4,975 — VND106.96 million. Spaces are limited, so contact Renaissance at admissions@ renaissance.edu.vn, or go to renaissance.edu.vn/index.php/oxysummer-programme-2015 for more information

examples on how to substitute it with healthier options and a quick demo on how to make sugar-free chocolate energy balls (they have nuts). The price of VND190,000 per adult and VND150,000 per child includes a healthy sugar-free drink from The Loop. Seminar starts at 9.30am and runs till 10.45am at The Loop, 49 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC. RSVPs are essential, contact Chiara at chiara@ laholista.com or 0127 8163620

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04&05

NOV.

KIDS’ YOGA TEACHER TRAINING

DRINK

If you want your kids to experience the same level of wellbeing from yoga that you get from it, check out the upcoming weekend course on how to bring them into the fold. Life Bright’s 20-hour workshop will explore theory, games, and exercises appropriate for all ages, from toddlers to teens. Give kids life skills beyond academics, and

ensure they grow up with more confidence and mindfulness than most of us learnt growing up. For more details and prices check out suzannevian.com

WEDNESDAY

T he Competition

We know how you like giveaways. In fact, who doesn’t? So, this month we’re handing out two lots of four free tickets (worth VND2.4 million) to the Belgian Beer Festival at Cargo Bar on Friday Apr. 24. Simply answer the following question and email the answer to competition@wordvietnam.com by Friday Apr. 17 at 5pm. Two main languages are spoken in Belgium, what are they? All the correct answers will be placed into a hat and the winners will be picked out at random on Monday, Apr. 20. To read more about the Belgian Beer Festival turn to page 12 or click on belgiumbeerfestival.com

THE FOUNDER OF LORETO IS LEAVING It’s the end of an era — Loreto founder Trish Franklin is leaving Vietnam. On Jul. 31 she will depart from the country she has spent the last 20 years in, and along with it leave a loving legacy. Through the Loreto Vietnam Australia Project, she has touched the lives of countless thousands of disadvantaged and disabled children in this country, and helped educate more than 30,000. The ripples of her imminent relocation back to Australia will

THURSDAY

THE HIGH CONCEPT WORLD OF NTONE EDJABE Ntone Edjabe’s Chimurenga Chronic started as a fictional newspaper, a ‘social sculpture’, a piece of performance art. Since debuting the pan-African arts-and-culture project in 2011 (back-dated to 2008, though — the concept was to write the past anew), it has since improbably become a real thing

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be felt far and wide, so before she does go, Auscham are putting on one of their Fireside Chat Series featuring Trish, who will reflect on her life’s work. Come along and pay tribute to this remarkable woman. The Fireside Chat: 20 Years of Loving Lives will take place at Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, HCMC, from 5.30pm to 8pm. Bookings are essential — to register, email events1@auschamvn.org. Tickets cost VND700,000, and all proceeds go to Loreto

— and with it, all the highconcept points Edjabe and his collaborators raised. If that’s not enough to sell you (although the talk is free), a few tickets for Edjabe’s nextnight Observatory gig will also be given away, featuring the pan-African beats collection of Edjabe the DJ’s Fong Kong Bantu Soundsystem. Ntone Edjabe will deliver a lecture on his Chimurenga Chronic at 6.30pm at Hoa Sen University, 8 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, HCMC. For more info, go to san-art.org

11 SATURDAY

13-17

APR.

DJ GRAHAM GOLD Already a legend of the global house scene, Graham Gold is returning to Saigon for one night only at Cargo Bar. Pumped about the burgeoning after-hours music scene in the city, Graham has promised “NO trance or classics.” However, if the likes of Nick Curly, Sidney Charles or Riverside Dive get you going, then you need to be there. With festivals like Glastonbury, Gatecrasher and Summerdayze under his belt, Mr. Gold is a must see for lovers of great live music. DJ Graham Gold plays Cargo Bar — 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC — on Saturday Apr. 11. Reserve your tickets at ticketbox.vn or get them on the door — VND220,000

REAL MADRID FOOTBALL CLINIC The Spanish giants of European football are coming back to Saigon. More than just an opportunity to experience a quality international football training programme, the Foundation Real Madrid provides an excellent platform for eight to 16 year olds to learn many important life skills like teamwork, leadership and respect. In partnership with Saigon South

12 SUNDAY

International School, the club will also offer the same opportunity to a group of up to 30 disadvantaged local children. The clinic participants will train daily from 4pm to 5.30pm during a period of five days at the SSIS football field. For more information contact Anson Tran on 01253 617272 or email info.frmvn@gmail.com. Clinic participants will train daily from 4pm to 5.30pm at SSIS

WEDNESDAY

ARC’S 4TH ANNUAL GARAGE SALE You’re not a terrible human being, right? Well then you’ll be glad to know that Animal Rescue and Care is still taking care of all the mistreated and abandoned animals that come their way, and you can help. Relax, it’s not going to be hard. On Sunday Apr. 12, they’re selling all the nice things that other non-terrible people have donated to them. We’re guessing the stuff isn’t terrible either. Get

down there and make a difference in the easiest way possible! The sale will be 8am to 2pm at APSC (BP) Compound, 18 Lilly, Q2, HCMC. You can donate your books, electronics, electrics, toys, sports equipment, clothing or whatever else your kind heart desires until Apr. 10 — either at the above address from 8.30am to 11.30am, or at Saigon Pet Clinic (33-41 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC) from 8am to 6.30pm

TALK ON HEALTHY EATING Family Medical Practice is hosting a free pediatric talk on Wednesday Apr. 15 at 6pm. Dr. Jonathan, the clinic’s pediatrician, will give a health talk on the topic of Healthy Eating For Kids. He will also be able

to answer any questions that parents may have. The talk will be held at the District 2 clinic, 95 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC. To reserve a free place email marketing@familymedicalpractice. com or call (08) 3744 2000

to do list

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Ho Chi Minh City

21 TUESDAY

APR.

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DEATH METAL FROM OZ HOBBY BREWER BEER COMPETITION We don’t have much information on this one other than to say that in lieu of their usual member meeting, Hobby Brewer is having a beer competition instead, and that’s good enough reason for us to get behind it! For anyone who’d like to participate, get in touch with the guys and tell them what kind of beer you’re brewing — or start on a batch for next time with one of their brew kits. Happy ‘beering’ people! The date still needs to be finalised, as do the contenders. For more information go visit hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl

Slaying Asia in 2015 are Truth Corroded, an Australian death metal band with an awesome poster featuring plenty of black T-shirts, long hair and bad attitudes. Destroying Yoko Bar for one night only, these Aussie bad boys hail from the epicentre of hardcore — Radelaide — and have supported the likes of Lamb of God, Fear Factory and Municipal Waste. Their latest album is called Saviours Slain and contributes strongly to a sound they call “confronting and vicious, but backed by a strong political, religious and social commentary”. Sounds like mayhem with a message. Don’t miss this one metal heads! The show starts at 8pm at Yoko — 22 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, HCMC. Tickets start at VND120,000, at ticketbox.vn/event/ truth-corroded-live-hcm-26347

ALL MONTH

MIX IT, BABY! Chris Polaschek is serious about his cocktails. In fact, so serious is the mixologist from Munich that he can sometimes take up to a day to prepare one drink. He is even making his own bitters. On the night we try out his cocktails at Vesper, we’re on a rum tip. Not a Bacardi or Havana Club affair — we’re off the cheap stuff tonight. Instead we’ve started with Sailor Jerry and are now eyeing Flor de Caña and Zacapa. Chris has got it covered, though, and whips up a rum Old Fashioned with chocolate bitters hand-carried over from Germany. It’s the best Old Fashioned I’ve ever tasted, and believe me I’ve tasted a few. This is followed by a spicy piña colada

— comrade-in-arms drinking partner Scott is blown away by it — and then a concoction that mixes Brugal rum with Ardbeg Scotch. Scott can’t do the peatiness, but I can. Wow does this knock me off balance! Chris is supposed to be making me up some sort of tiramisu-style drink the next day. But somehow it doesn’t quite happen. It doesn’t matter. There are a growing number of mixologists in town — well, about three of them. If you like your cocktails, take advantage of them while you can. Chris will be shaking up the drinks menu at Vesper Bar (Ground Floor, Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC) throughout April, and possibly for the foreseeable future

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GRUESOME PLAYGROUND INJURIES Dragonfly Theatre Co. and Saigon Sound System will present acclaimed off-Broadway play Gruesome Playground Injuries this month at Cargo Bar. Coming off a successful Bangkok premiere last month, it begins on the playground and reveals over 30 years the beautifully destructive nature of romance. “Is love just another form of self-harm?” and ‘‘Why do we hurt those we love the most?” are just some of the questions this R-rated show attempts to answer. Children under 16 should be accompanied by an adult. Advance sales are available from ticketbox. vn at VND300,000, sales on the door are VND350,000. Book early! Cargo is at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

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FV OPEN TENNIS TOURNAMENT FV wants you to be part of its 2015 doubles’ tennis tournament for recreational players (so don’t worry if you’re bad). Over two days, 32 teams will decide who’s the best, who’s secondbest, who’s third-best, and on and on until they get to eighthbest. And then they’ll also decide who played the fairest,

SAVE

The Date

and who wins the Miss FV Open 2015 Prize. VND200 million is at stake, and a gala dinner and lucky draw should help dry some tears. Registration for teams of two to three is VND1 million per team. For more info or to register, contact fvopen@fvhospital.com, or go to fvhospital.com/fvopen

MAY

2015 BOURBON STREET JAZZ FESTIVAL The Bourbon Street Jazz Festival is back at Q4, a fusion of everything that’s good about jazz, funk and blues. The headliner this time is the much sought after Paris local Nina van Horn and her International Blues Band, who’ll be using Saigon to kick off their Asian tour. Supported by new funk phenoms the Brooklyn Funky Blues Band as well as Bad Neighbor, you can be sure that they’ll tearing down the house

as usual. Support Kids First and Arts for Mobility by getting your tickets — VND500,000 — for this one soon! For advance and group ticket sales enquiries, email rogerf@seanet. com — and watch for updates on bourbonstreetjazzfestival.com

INDOCHINE CUP

MAY

Now in its 16th year of competition, the Indochine Cup is a 10-a-side full contact rugby and six-a-side touch tournament held on an annual basis between Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. For the first time since 2011 its Saigon’s turn to host, with Myanmar also invited to take part. Having gone back-to-back since 2011, and with longtime

servant Tom Percasky soon moving on, it’s sure to be a memorable weekend for the Saigon Geckos rugby team, who have promised to do everything they can to hang onto their trophy. Check out all the action at RMIT’s South Saigon Campus — 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, HCMC — between 11am and 6pm

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just in

Ho Chi Minh City CAST AWAY ON A DESERT ISLAND

WEDDING BELLS ARE GONNA RING The Sheraton Saigon and the Bliss Wedding Planner Corporation has launched the Wedding Studio. Customers here can find the latest on-trend setups, culinary styles and wedding amenities for their big day. Added to that is the fact that for every wedding booked at Sheraton Saigon — or at over 200

participating Starwood hotels and resorts in the Asia-Pacific region — couples will be rewarded with Starpoints redeemable for a honeymoon at any Starwood property in the world. The Wedding Studio is located on the ground floor of the Sheraton Saigon at 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, HCMC

If you’ve been around long enough to remember our January 2014 issue, you might remember Curtis Norris. He was the guy who spent six months on a deserted island in Halong Bay, contemplating life and the many shapes of coconuts. Now he’s turned that experience into a chooseyour-own-adventure series, the first of which has recently been released. You have many choices in the Magipelago universe — achieving ultimate fame among the alien-like villagers, and championing the cause of the oppressed monkeys are just two fine examples. The first book of the Magipelago

series, Vanitipu, is available on Kindle via amazon.com

INTERNATIONAL SOS UNVEILS NEW APP Perfect for frequent travellers, International SOS now has a new app to connect you to their services faster than ever before. Never feel off the grid again when you need to stay on target. Go to internationalsos.com for more information

BAHDJA MOVES Well-known and equally well-loved Algerian restaurant Bahdja has upped roots and moved from District 1 to District 3. Now located in a leafy, semi-terraced space Le Quy Don, the new bigger and brighter restaurant will

continue to serve up its usual awesome food, but with a larger kitchen now available, the owners will be adding a range of Mediterranean dishes to their roster. Boom! Bahdja’s new location is 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3, HCMC

MAD HOUSE If location is the key to a restaurant’s success, then on first sight, MAD House, the latest addition to the District 2 drinking and dining scene, could be either a winner or a disaster. Tucked away down an alleyway off Nguyen U Di — the road that also houses The Deck — there is no street frontage. Making this the kind of place you could easily pass by and then miss. And yet being hidden from plain sight is to its advantage. Walk through the black-painted gates and the garden opens out into a leafy, tropical deck area with dark-wooden tables and chairs, and an aircon interior that mixes grey concrete floors with the same, attractive, rustic theme.

Key, though is the menu, and with an accomplished Danish chef at the helm — Casper Gustafsen was originally brought over to Vietnam by the team at Chill Skybar — expect the offerings to be top-notch. An international selection of mains hits the VND150,000 to VND250,000 region, while a well-priced wine menu is backed up by Illy coffee, draught Heineken starting at VND35,000 and a range of cocktails. If the buzz created by the first few weeks of their opening is anything to go by, that hideaway location might just be a winner. MAD House is at 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, HCMC or online at facebook.com/madsaigon

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MAPLE HEALTHCARE Maple Healthcare is a new specialist clinic in Phu My Hung, with chiropractic, skin care and dental services right across the road from FV Hospital. If you’re looking for some top-end medical services with all the

modern fixings, you’ve found the right place. Maple Healthcare is located at MD6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, HCMC (opposite FV Hospital). For more information, visit maplehealthcare.net

HUE, THE CITY OF CRYING STONES Sebastian Laval is a serious photographer here, who’s previously used his talents to capture the ethnic minorities of Vietnam. Philippe Bouler has produced many exhibitions and events worldwide, including the Hue Festival, which he founded. Together, they’ve decided to concentrate their talents on Hue — and they’re looking for your help. By the end of April, they hope to

raise EU€6,000 (VND140 million) to match the EU€9,000 they’ve already put in, for a photo book designed to spotlight Hue’s frequently hidden charms. The perks are cool and — at the time of this writing — they were already past the 50 percent mark. Help spread the beauty of Vietnam by supporting two people who see it so well. See what they’re trying to capture at ulule.com/hue-villedespierres

CHANH BISTRO With the never-ending construction on Nguyen Hue, Bitexco-area lunchers are being forced to find options away from business lunch hotspot Dong Khoi. And with this new state of affairs, the lunch game south of Nguyen Hue is improving. One new option is Chanh Bistro, which not only does most things pretty well, but has a near-unbeatable business lunch that weighs in at VND110,000. The two courses aren’t cut-rate — rather there’s a dainty mesclun salad to start things off, followed by your choice of legitimately plate-filling mains. We tried the sea bass and the pork ribs, and both exceeded expectations (the pork ribs were actual ribs, not riblets). With their

RELISH & SONS Stakes are high in the burger game these days, with newcomers like Quan Ut Ut and Chuck’s carving out the best-burger territory already hotly disputed by the likes of Scott and Binh’s, Bernie’s and Mogambo. And with the stage set, the mouths behind Racha Room figured Saigon might be ready for their rendition. Taking their cue from the gastropub mode of burger, Relish & Sons pile fresh, eclectic toppings

onto a base of quality beef. Add in milkshakes and sturdy, simple cocktails like Tito’s Handmade Vodka-tonics in the trademark copper mug, and you’ve got a down-to-earth speciality joint that covers their few bases extremely well. And that’s without even talking about the housemade relishes, each tailored to the burger it’s slathered on. Relish & Sons is at 44 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC

FACEBOOK WITHOUT THE FAKEBOOK

rooftop opening this month, the sky’s the limit. Chanh Bistro is at 6th Floor, 45 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, HCMC

Lief is a super-cool idea facing an up-hill battle: keep the things we like about social media while cutting down the 800-friend annoyances. Built into this refined concept is the idea that social media needs to make progress to continue being a positive part of our lives. And that means making the kind of adjustments that will help it be more like our actual lives. Just as you don’t behave the same way around your friends as you do around your mom, so too should you have that option on your social media. Because if

you don’t feed that complexity, eventually you won’t have it in your relationships — and isn’t that really the point? Get into the ‘Circle of Lief’ at lief.com

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overscene ho chi minh

st phatty s day comedy

Photos by Nick Ross What do you get if you put an Englishman and a couple of Irishmen in an Australian bar? As we found out thanks to stand-ups Aidan Killian, Graham Wooding and Eoghan Quinn, a whole lot of laughs

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Peche a la Mouche

Photos by Glen Riley deciBel hosted the stripped-down sounds of the acoustic gypsy jazz trio

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

international Women s day

Photos by Csaba Molnár Feminists of all genders packed Saigon Outcast for International Women’s Day, raising US$3,500 for Little Rose Shelter

RISS book fair

Photos provided by Renaissance International School Renaissance assembled the cutest little bookworms this side of Alexandria for their book fair

Saigon urban f lea market Photos by Glen Riley Cool crafters assembled for Saigon Outcast’s monthly market

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to do list

01-26

hanoi

APR.

SATURDAY

TRIO VIVO

SMILE! TEMPORARY ART Manzi and L'Espace have teamed up this month to present the weird and wonderful world of Plonk & Replonk with an exhibition entitled Smile! Temporary Art. Well-known in Switzerland France as Plonk & Replonk, the artist duo / brothers Hubert Froidevaux and Jacques Froidevaux explore the endless possible uses of humour in various art forms: object, sculpture, installation,

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light box, postcard and graphic prints. Characterized by a mix of black humour and wicked wit, which borders on the sarcastic and mischievous, Plonk & Replonk deal with contentious topics such as the environment, globalisation, education and consumerism. Their work is brutally honest yet playful and fantastical. Smile! Temporary Art runs until Apr. 26 at Manzi Art Space, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

Founded in 2012, Trio Vivo is the work of three young, award-winning musicians from Denmark. Having performed at a number of significant concert series and festivals, including the Copenhagen Summer Music Festival, on Apr. 4 they will perform two major Romanticera works by Brahms and Schumann, as well as a piece by late-Romantic Danish composer Rued Langgaard and a tango by Astor Piazzolla. Accompanied by violinist Nguyen My Huong and the Danish violist Nicolaj Moeller Nielsen, who currently lives in

A NIGHT OF CLUTTER

FRIDAY

Enjoy a free night of open improvised psychedelic sound jamming by local and visiting artists at CAMA ATK Hanoi. Come, bring your instruments and play or sit back and listen to the chaotic jams of fellow artists. A Night of Clutter will be held at CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. For more information, visit the CAMA ATK Facebook page

APR.

10&11

Hanoi, expect a night of great technical mastery and deep dedication. The concert will take place at the Goethe Institut, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Tickets are available directly from the institute, and entrance is free of charge. Doors are at 8pm

APR.

HANOI SOUND STUFF 2015 The experimental music and arts festival, Hanoi Sound Stuff, returns once again with an international line-up experimental musicians and artists. Kicking off on Thursday Apr. 9 at Manzi Art Space (14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi) the opening day starts at 2pm with a ‘music art film’. This is followed by performances from Sound Awakener (VN), Gaute Granli (NOR), Van Anh Vo and Chris Brown (VN / USA) and Cluster of Sounds (USA). On Friday the festivities move to Hanoi Creative City (1 Luong

Yen, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi) with a focus on graffiti, documentary screenings and workshops, with Berlin Club Night kicking off at 8pm. Then on Saturday, the festival heads to the Van Ho Exhibition Centre (2 Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi) with live performances from Tri Minh and DEE.F (VN), Thylacine (FRA) and Daniel Mariuma and Moti Saadia (ISR). The afternoon events will also form the second part of the Berlin Club Night. For more information and ticketing, visit hanoisoundstuff.vn

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BERLIN CLUB NIGHT The renowned Berlin Club Night will highlight this year’s Hanoi Sound Stuff Festival after appearances in India, Poland, Egypt and Brazil. A collaboration between the the Berlin club scene, the Goethe Institut and the German Embassy, the co-production will be spread across two days, including live DJ sets, film screenings and panel discussions. Flying in

from Germany will be GermanVietnamese multi-instrumentalist Chi Thanh as well as Chopstick & Johnjon — German-Vietnamese artist Chi-Tien Nguyen and John B. Muder. Berlin Club Night will be spread across day two and day three of Hanoi Sound Stuff Festival, starting Apr. 10 at 4pm. Entrance is free. For more information, visit goethe.de/vietnam or hanoisoundstuff.vn

APR.

Photo by Thuy-Tien Nguyen / andofotherthings.com

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MYSTERY QUEST If the somewhere-outside-ofHanoi Quest festivals have been getting the juices flowing, then the latest installment, Mystery Quest, from Apr. 10 to Apr. 12 is likely to create a waterfall. Rather than telling you the full details of the event, this time round the organisers are asking you to trust them. Simply sign up, book your ticket and via

pre-booked transportation they will take you to the venue and do their damnedest to put on onehelluva a party. The rest, as we like to expound, will be history. Quest Festival will take place from Apr. 10 to Apr. 12. Sign up for the ride at quest.bigtime.vn. But hurry. Tickets are limited. To see more on the upcoming festival go to page 14

Once reserved exclusively for royalty, tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences. Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy.

THE FRASER COLLECTION BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)

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hanoi

10 APR. - 08

MAY

CATHERINE KARNOW PHOTOGRAPHY

Thoughts You Have While You’re… Driving Helmet check. Mirror check. Rain, rain, rain… At least I can put on my pretty purple raincoat. Oops I forgot the kickstand. Again. Left. Right. Straight. Mmphmm… This alley never ends. Damn…! Whew… That was close… Dude! Really? Watch where you are going! Dog! Move from the middle of the road, DOG! What the f…?! There is nothing better than the lakeside road early in the morning. Hellooo, Vietnam national rowing team jogging. Whaaaat beep beep? Beep beep yourself! I am on the right side of the road already! Hmmm, where are you going? That was perfectly smooth. Aaaaaand… into traffic! Waving through traffic, yeah! Second gear. Third gear. Second gear. Lady, oi! Make your mind up, won’t you? I wonder how long I can go without putting my foot down? Steady. Ooooooh. Steady. Well done, me! Intersection coming. Aaaand… Still no foot down!

Wow! Nice shoes giiiiirl! Ohh flowers! I should buy flowers on my way home tonight. But probably won’t find any flower lady when I need one. Also I should buy milk and cat food. Oops, sorry my bad! And foot down! Wow that was probably my fastest time! Seriously?! Here?! You’re stopping here? Mmphmm At least he’s not driving and texting… Unlike you there! Should I go and drive on the sidewalk like them? How much time would I gain? Mmphmm, maybe not today. Oops! Mmphmm… why are we not moving? Because it’s a two-car stand-off, duh! Guys, if you keep going through, the cars will never be able to move! I should have gone on the sidewalk. Yeahhhh! Finally! It’s moving! Third gear! Yippie, fourth gear! Aaaaand… stop. 60 seconds for a traffic light is long. 5… 4… 3… 2… 1… Go! Almost there. Please indicate! Aaaand… stop. Neutral. Parked.

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In celebration of the 20th anniversary of diplomatic relations between America and Vietnam, and the 40th anniversary of the end of the war, Art Gallery Vietnam will exhibit images from acclaimed photographer Catherine Karnow. Renowned for

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her work for National Geographic, Karnow presents an insider’s view from her 25 years in Vietnam. The exhibition will run from Apr. 10 to May 8, at Art Gallery Vietnam, 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. An opening reception will be held on Apr. 10 from 6pm

APR.

FLEX Expat artist Heather McClellan will exhibit her collection of traditional Vietnamese lacquer pieces at the Nguyen Gallery from Apr. 17. Focusing on depictions of women in Vietnam, McClellan’s pieces incorporate her experience as a fine artist and an oil painter with traditional lacquer composition. FLEX opens Friday Apr. 17 at 7pm and will run until the April 24 at the Nguyen Art Gallery, 31 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Hanoi. The gallery is located near the Temple of Literature

SATURDAY

THE AUSTRALIANA BALL Hanoi’s resident Aussies (and non-Aussies, too) are invited to the Australiana Ball for a night of great Australian food and fun. Organised by AussieOi, a group of Australians living in Hanoi, the ball will feature an Australian-themed three-course dinner, imported Australian

wines and a thrilling night of dancing and entertainment. The Australiana Ball will be held at the InterContinental Hotel Westlake on Apr. 18. Tickets are VND2 million per person and can be purchased by emailing australianaballhanoi@gmail. com. Dress code is formal with a touch of Australiana

SATURDAY

WEDNESDAY

MARY OCHER LIVE Some say the queen of Berlin’s underground music scene, Mary Ocher, is possibly possessed by demons. Well now you can find out now with Ocher bringing her unique brand of avant-popgarage-rock to CAMA ATK for one otherworldly night. She will perform tracks from her recent album. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA. For more info, visit the CAMA ATK Facebook page

SAVE

THE AMCHAM ROCK ‘N’ SOUL GALA One of the most highly anticipated social events of the year, the AmCham Gala promises diners a stylish evening of fine dining, top-shelf liquor and ‘rock ‘n’ soul’ entertainment. There are a host of prizes to be won, in addition to live music acts performed

by artists all the way from the musical heart of Memphis, Tennessee and a silent auction. The gala will be held at the JW Marriott, 8 Do Duc Duc, Tu Liem, Hanoi on Apr. 18. Tickets are available now for VND 2.9 million per seat at amchamhanoi.com

The Date

SUNDAY

FULL MOON PARTY ON CAT BA

TET DECOR NOURISHMENT DAY Held on the last Sunday of each month, Nourishment Day offers weary Hanoians the chance to escape the city to enjoy some much needed quiet time. Located at the Tet Lifestyle Collection’s Fragrant Path Nature Retreat in Dai Lai, activities include a Vietnamese cooking class, yoga,

nature trekking and meditation, to name but a few. Nourishment Day tickets are US$65 (VND1.37 million) per person with a 20 percent discount for participants who book before Apr. 20. For more information, visit tet-lifestyle-collection.com or email info@tet-lifestyle-collection.com

It’s not the first full moon party in Vietnam — there have been a number of these beasts hitting the southern hemisphere of this country over the past few years. But it’s certainly the first full moon party in the North. Held on Cat Ba Island’s Moonia Beach, five minutes away from Cat Ba Town, the May 1 to May 3, holiday weekend event (camping included) is being dubbed as Vietnam’s answer to Glastonbury, and possibly even Café Del Mar. Expect this one to be bigger than big. With Day 1 focusing on live bands, the 5pm to 2am festivities will then pass onto to Full Moon Day, aka May 2, where 24 hours of non-stop partying aided by the full festival entourage of face

painters, shot girls, DJs, shisha, lasers, dancers, well-stocked bars and much, much more will be on display. And for those who want to chill out after taking it just that little bit too far, Day 3 will bring out the lounge music. Perfect for a little respite before the return trip to Hanoi. Tickets cost US$50 (VND1.1 million) per person and can be purchased from Simon at Travel Agent Hanoi, 43 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or by emailing bookings@fullmoonpartyvietnam. com or simon@travelagenthanoi. com. Transport can also be arranged from Hanoi as can tents for the two-night stay. For more information go to www.facebook. com/FullMoonPartyVietnam or fullmoonpartyvietnam.com

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hanoi

THE UNICORN Pham Tien Tiep, the Hanoi champion bartender who invented the pho cocktail, just doesn’t know when to give up. Which is a good thing for us fans of Mojito Bar and the excellent concoctions he puts together. Unfortunately, Mojito Bar is no longer. So Tiep has moved his operations to a new venue, The Unicorn, at 2 Hang Than, Hoan Kiem. Check it out. It’s a decent venue, and the cocktails are just as tasty (and potent). To see a review of The Unicorn head to page 130

LOTUSLAND Vietnam-based, American writer David Joiner has published his debut novel, Lotusland, which is now available on Guernica. One of the only works of fiction by a US author to bridge the literary gap between the Vietnam War and contemporary Vietnam, the story focuses on Nathan Monroe, a 28-year-old American living in Vietnam, who falls in love with a poor but talented Vietnamese painter. When he fails to protect their love from her desperate chase for a better life in America, his safety net appears in the form of Anthony, an old domineering friend in Hanoi who hires Nathan at his real estate firm. To read an excerpt from the novel, please turn to page 182. Lotusland can be purchased online — click on david-joiner.com/buy-1/ for a list of distributors

WEEKEND BOOKWORM In mid April, Bookworm Too in Nghi Tam Village will become Weekend Bookworm. Still located at the same address, it will only open on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 6pm. In line with the change, Weekend Bookworm will be made into a specialist bookshop and will only sell children’s books and books with a Vietnamese theme. Notebooks and arts ‘n craft object d’art will also be on offer. The Weekend Bookworm will also be an outlet for restored bao cap (Subsidy Era) furniture that Bookworm staff have collected from north and central Vietnam.

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EDEN HANOI REOPENS

Bookworm in Chau Long will continue to operate as usual, seven days a week, 9am to 7pm. Weekend Bookworm is at 6 Lane 1/28 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi

If you didn’t already know, well now you do. That outdoor venue by the river that attracts over 1,000 revellers on the weekend has reopened for the summer. In fact, their re-opening party in mid-March brought in 1,500 of you. Keep an eye on the parties at Eden by clicking on facebook.com/edengargen. Eden Hanoi is at 264 Au Co, Tay Ho. Just follow the signs

COLLABORATORS DECIDE TO COLLABORATE Two of Hanoi’s best-known (and loved) collaborative workspaces have merged and added two more investors. Over the next two months, the team behind Commune Coworking Café will establish an on-premises café bar at the ClickSpace Coworking Villa (#15, Lane 76 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho), and the new food and drink entity — which is already in pop-up café stage — will be renamed Spacebar.

Unfortunately the merger also signifies the end of Commune Café, a favourite for those liking to while away a few hours with view over West Lake. Says Commune Café founder, Jeremy Wellard: “Commune Café had great customers and a loyal cadre of laptop workers who called it their home base… But it was time to return to our roots and get serious about building great collaborative work environments.”

Clean air in Hanoi? It is finally here!

Would you like to breathe Swiss air? Visit our new showroom in Tay Ho, Hanoi at the Syrena Shopping Center

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overscene hanoi

A Select Affair

Photos provided by Hanoi Grapevine Hanoi Grapevine brought their latest selection of local art to the National Museum of Fine Arts

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van cong moi

Photos by Trung Del A night of high energy live music courtesy of Kick-Off band, all supported by Monster Energy, found its way down to Old Quarter watering hole, Z Bar

let s folk and swing

Photos by Trung Del Swing, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the in thing these days. And last month it twisted itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s way down to West Lake, courtesy of Hanoi Rock City

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

A Taste for It

Photos provided by the French Embassy In the name of spreading the word about French cuisine, Goût de France simultaneously hit thousands of locations around the world last month, and Hanoi was one of them

TGIF

Photos by Trung Del Hanoi’s longest running weekly event, Friday Night on the Terrace, still draws the revellers into the Press Club

Insider I FILMED A BIG BEER AD // 40 YEARS AFTER // 50 SHADES OF EXPAT // A STREETCAR NAMED UBER // THEATRE FOR THE PEOPLE // HAS HANOI’S ART SCENE LOST ITS EDGE? // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // STREET SNACKER HCMC // FASHION // THE LAST POST ON THE BUGLE // HUA HIN PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

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insider

MANY FACES

NATIONAL

I Shot a Big Beer Ad Jon Aspin sucks down a Hahn Super Dry, in his quest for the ultimate expat experience

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eing a foreigner in this country affords you a bunch of opportunities. The list of things you probably wouldn’t do at home is huge if you live here. Admittedly, some of these opportunities are best rain-checked — one last beer at 5am anyone? However, there are still a few you can’t refuse. For those familiar with these pages, you might remember my stellar turn as an American military captain in the Vietnamese jungle last year (shout out to my Madagui soldier boys). As amazing as that was, I’ve just done something to top it. It’s something I definitely didn’t think I’d ever do, and no it’s not acro-yoga.

I’ve just been part of a multi-million dollar Australian beer commercial. Scenes were filmed in Hanoi and Sapa last month, and I’m in them. I don’t necessarily seek out these opportunities. However, as a writer for your favourite free expat read, I feel duty-bound to accept these gifts when they come.

Meeting the Crew Flown up to Hanoi by 116 Pictures the day after returning from Tet, I could see that the cast and crew had developed a strong bond already. They had a rhythm. So my first role was to meet everyone, wait for an instruction and try not to be a tool.

Before reaching ‘Nam they’d already been to six countries in 15 days — this was no low-budget mini-series — racking up shark diving in South Africa, condor flying in the deserts of Dubai and snowmobiling in Poland as part of their day’s work. These all formed what the director would later tell me was the ‘experience collecting’ theme of the ad, tracking the journey through manhood of the commercials’ hero, a 28-to-35-year-old dude played by Kiwi actor Ashley Hawkes. The experience of being part of his journey was incredible. In summary, I got paid to hang out in spectacular locations, ride a beatup Yamaha over bridges, through rivers and down a mountain, share some banter with

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“I got paid to hang out in spectacular locations, ride a beat-up Yamaha over bridges, through rivers and down a mountain, share some banter with a great bunch of guys, then sit around a campfire to tell jokes and drink beer”

a great bunch of guys, then sit around a campfire to tell jokes and drink beer. I wasn’t alone in this assignment, though. Playing next to me was fellow Saigonite Zacharie, a handsome Frenchman with a beard, and the perfect look for this gig. Zach had the exact same attitude as me from day one. “Two nights in Hanoi, two nights in Sapa, sounds like a paid vacation to me — I’m in.” After four days of filming and bunking on trains together, I asked Zach if he thought my acting skills were as good as I thought they were. Our local producer Gordon Westman was sitting next to him when he replied, so he might have been talking me up. “Jon’s perfect for the ‘big laughs’,”

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he said — referring to the cue we were repeatedly given by the director. “He doesn’t even look like an actor, he’s just so natural. It’s been a pleasure making him look better all shoot.”

Beer Money False modesty and beard envy aside, Australians attach a lot of importance to their beer ads. As I said, this production was traversing the globe in search of beer ad nirvana, and on set there was a veritable who’s who of the Australian film and television industry. These guys were complemented on the ground by a Vietnamese team of location managers, caterers and production assistants

from 116. These were the people getting things done when you needed it, and included 21-year-old costume department volunteer Sabo Thu Ạnh, a film student in Hanoi and future Viet-noir director to watch. On this job I’d say mine, Zach’s and Ashley’s look was mostly ‘shabby-biker-chic’, so I took it upon myself to lose everything I owned at least once a day, making her life hell. All in all there were about 25 people making the machine tick, a multinational travelling circus that all needed to be fed, accommodated, transported and paid. At breakfast one morning, I caught up with the brand manager from the brewery Malcolm Eadie, a Scotsman with the company money to make this all happen. I

asked him about the insight behind the ad, and he told me it took about two years to deliver. “Blokes of a certain age feel like they’re living on autopilot,” he said. “They’ve all got this desire to pick up all these different experiences, but it’s hard because at that age they might be stuck in a rut — the same friends, the same places, the same jobs. They won’t do something big with their lives without some kind of inspiration. This ad is about giving them that.” Copywriter Josh Parmenter was also there, part of the agency creative team responsible for the idea. I wondered whether he’d written it just so he could go on holiday. Laughing, Josh was really happy with the

way it was going — giving credit to pros like DOP Jeremy Rouse and director Patrick Hughes for bringing it all together.

Hollywood Baby A big ball of Australian creative energy, Patrick’s been directing commercials and films all over the world for the last 15 years. Before getting this gig he’d done stuff like ride a tank into the Cannes film festival to promote The Expendables 3, a film he also directed. Riding next to him were Arnold Schwarzenegger and Sly Stallone. This level of kicking ass is truly beyond my vocabulary. I tried to remain calm in my chat with him, but I was more than a little intimidated by this level of awesome. But then I found out he was just a

normal guy, inspired by a bike trip he’d made in Vietnam 10 years ago with his best mate. I wanted to know how Patrick hoped people would feel when we saw this thing on TV. “It’s going to be f****** epic. It’s gonna be one of those ads that makes the hair on the back of your neck stand up. One that makes you think, ‘Yeah, I gotta go out and I gotta live life.’ Because that’s what life is about, it’s about passion — passion for life, passion for love. And it’s also about what you do with your failures. Do you take it lying down or do you just say f*** that, wipe the slate clean and start again? “That’s what people should feel. Then they should go suck a Hahn Super Dry!” For more behind the scenes footage of the big beer ad, go to hahn.com.au

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insider

INSIDER

NATIONAL

40 Years After: The Liberation of Saigon Four decades on from Apr. 30, 1975, Hoa Le looks into the past of two men whose fortunes rose and fell with Vietnam’s own

“E

veryone was puzzled,” says Nguyen Qui Duc. “Many people had moved away. Along the streets, some houses were closed, others were locked. I started to worry. The news about the war just made me more nervous.” He was 17 years old in April of 1975, and had just arrived in Saigon from Danang. His father had been imprisoned somewhere in the north since the Tet Offensive of 1968 — he had been working as an official in the South Vietnamese government (Republic of Vietnam). His mother was stuck in Danang while trying to come to Saigon the day after Duc left — there were no other planes making the trip. “Every day, I went to the airport to see if there were any planes arriving from the central provinces. But there weren’t.”

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As the North Vietnamese staged their final blitzkrieg and their tanks knocked down the metal gate of Saigon’s Independence Palace and rolled onto its lawn, throngs of Vietnamese were clamouring to get aboard already overcrowded helicopters flying out of Vietnam. Duc arranged to flee the country with his uncle’s family. They were jammed on a boat to Phu Quoc Island, then one week later, herded onto a ferry with about 3,000 other refugees heading to Guam before an airplane took them to Arkansas in the United States. Duc left behind his beloved parents, sisters and his home country.

After the Libertation Inside the country, after the liberation, the

city’s name was changed to Ho Chi Minh City. Soldiers of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam (North Vietnam) were feeling optimistic — not only had they won the war, but their long and brutal struggle had finally come to an end. “Our first thought was all about the fact that now we could return to our homes and reunite with our families,” says 83-year-old colonel Tran Minh Hong. “I think even the soldiers who drove the tank into the Independence Palace shared that feeling.” Hong served in the army for both the French and American Wars, and participated in both Dien Bien Phu and the central region’s bloody clashes. Since that historical day, both Duc and Hong went on their separate paths. But looking back on that day, 40 years later, both have mixed feelings.

Duc’s Journey As Duc landed in a new country, he started his life again. He did all sort of jobs from painting houses to selling hamburgers — and later, he studied to become a journalist. He translated English writings about Vietnam for Vietnamese refugees who felt disconnected from their homeland. He also translated Vietnamese work into English for American citizens, so that they knew more about the lives of those on the other side of the globe. His journalism took him through the pages of the Wall Street Journal, the airwaves of the BBC and public radio in San Francisco. He wanted to tell his people’s stories, not just of the suffering people in the south, but also the sorrow of the mother in the north who lost her children during the war — stories with universal meaning that those on one side of the conflict had not been told about the other. America brought him many opportunities — career-wise at least. But deep inside, Duc never stopped wanting to come back to Vietnam. “I’ve never liked America,” he says. “At the age of 17, I had encountered many things in life: I had seen the war and the deaths that it brought. I listened to Vietnamese music, I read Vietnamese poems and absorbed Vietnamese culture and society. When I came to another country that didn’t have such things, I felt uncomfortable.” Duc’s father was released from prison in 1980, and four years later Duc sponsored his parents’ emigration to the US. After 16 years apart, he was finally reunited with his father. “If he had died, it would have been

“As the North Vietnamese staged their final blitzkrieg and their tanks knocked down the metal gate of Saigon’s Independence Palace, throngs of Vietnamese were clamouring to get aboard overcrowded helicopters flying out of Vietnam” different,” he says, his voice husky with feeling. “We would have been very sad but then continued to live our life. “But as we didn’t have his news for so long, it felt as if I was under a yoke the whole time. I couldn’t allow myself to enjoy life. I received a scholarship to study art, but how could I draw when I assumed that my parents were suffering back home?” In 1989, he finally came back to visit Vietnam for the first time. Then in 2006, he decided to move to Hanoi. He now owns the eclectic lounge bar and café Tadioto, a popular gathering spot for both expats and locals.

Hong’s Return After liberation, Colonel Hong stayed in Can Tho and Saigon for a few months to

take charge of infrastructure and property left by the South Vietnamese government. Then, in October 1975, he returned to Hanoi and continued to serve in the Ministry of Defence. In 1982, he quit the military and moved to settle down in Saigon. When Vietnam imposed the policy of Doi Moi in 1986, Hong saw firsthand the change it made in peoples’ lives. “Before that, the lives of people here [in Ho Chi Minh City] were very tough and poor. People couldn’t do business in an open way, but had to do it secretly. That reform policy finally helped Ho Chi Minh City to use its potential and strength — as it had more experience of capitalism during the colonial time. Its people were used to the market-oriented system, and the public infrastructure was also better than in the north. The links with Viet Kieu also brought more foreign currency flowing into the city.” Today, looking at the development of the Vietnamese economy and people’s living standards, both Duc and Hong feel that the promise of the country is finally arriving. But they see much work ahead. With the country’s bloody wars in the past, there are new battles to fight: against corruption, unbalanced development, the loss of cultural and historical values, even the loss of Vietnam’s natural beauty. But people like Duc and Hong went through the biggest trial Vietnam had to face in the last century, and can only be optimistic about the country’s will to overcome its future challenges.

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cover story

Fifty Shades of Expat Expat stereotypes are everywhere, little cocoons of half-truth that we assign to large proportions of people who live overseas. So, Word being the staid, unoriginal publication that we are, tried to jump on the stereotype bandwagon. “No, don’t do that,” we hear you shout. Well, we did, but with a difference. From the hundreds of potential stereotypes out there — and there really are loads — we whittled down our categorisation to 10. A loose 10. As you’ll see when you read through these pages, some of the labels, from The Creeper to The Intern, could really be an amalgamation of many types of people. We then came up with 50 stories, or hey, 50 shades, and assigned five to each stereotype. Some fit perfectly. Others don’t. You may even recognise some of the stories, from real situations you’ve heard about or encountered during your time living in Vietnam. And many will be familiar — you or your friends may have encountered similar scenarios. But key is that all of them tell of experience, the experience we have living overseas. And that is what we wanted to achieve. Whether you’re labeled an immigrant, expatriate or migrant — the distinction is often very foggy — we wanted to get a sense of what it’s like to live in a place that was not originally our home. It could be a full-blooded, million miles-an-hour ride or a never-ending nightmare. One thing’s for sure, the adventure of living overseas is unique.

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The Ao Dai

I wasn't allowed to study Vietnamese in high school. I went to elementary

school in Bamako, Mali, where learning French was mandatory at school and nearly everyone was bi- or multilingual. So I was surprised when I started 11th grade in Vietnam that not only was Vietnamese not offered as an elective (only Mandarin and Spanish), but that the administration was totally opposed to offering any credit for a Vietnamese class taken by non-Vietnamese citizens — my Vietnamese classmates had to take Vietnamese history and language on Saturdays. They also wouldn’t endorse an official after-school or Saturday morning Vietnamese language club. In my grade, at least, almost everyone I talked to agreed that it would be great to have some sort of formal Vietnamese instruction. We were basically told that, as a college prep school with an English-only policy, it wasn’t up for discussion. This was several years ago now so I’d be interested to see if a more stubborn student could have changed their minds. And now that I’ve been through a liberal arts college, their “because we’re a college prep school” argument doesn’t make much sense.

I was sold accommodation in a museum. In my first year, I was sold

accommodation for a night in what I thought was a hotel but was actually a museum. I wondered why the bed had a “Do not sit on the bed” sign and why everything was so dusty and there was no running water when I tried to shower in my museum bedroom — for which I had paid VND600,000 for the night. I should’ve figured out that something was up from the fact that it was at Tet and there was no-one else there, but instead I thought, “Yay, there must be something really fun going on in town, I can’t wait to have a shower and go see what’s happening.” But there was no shower.

I had to keep doing my fake Irish accent for a week. I’d just broken up

with my sort-of boyfriend, and decided to go to the Thai island we were planning on visiting together by myself. I’d walked out of his Bangkok apartment a couple of days earlier, after learning that he’d had another girl staying in his bed the

morning of the day I’d arrived. We were supposed to spend a couple weeks travelling together and seeing how we got along outside of quick weekend visits — and on the first day I had my answer. I spent my first island day indoors, sulking. That night I forced myself to go out, to a bar down the street. But I couldn’t work up the courage to talk to anybody, even after my second gin-tonic. When a boy approached me at the bar, I automatically switched on my veryconvincing Irish accent. With it goes a mostly-true backstory, and he believed it. We had a laugh, then he introduced me to all his friends and asked me to stay at his family’s large vacation home. It was a great, relaxing week that reminded me of how much fun I could have on my own — the only drawback is I had to keep being Eabha to him and everyone else I met.

I've held 20 Vietnamese babies. Fact: Vietnamese babies are the cutest babies in the whole world. How do I know? Because I’ve held, nursed and burped about 20 of them since I arrived in Vietnam. And no, these aren’t babies I’m trusted to teach, but the babies of complete and utter strangers. So warm and welcoming to foreigners are the Vietnamese people, that many are completely comfortable handing over their newborns and snapping a photo on their smartphones (presumably destined for Facebook?) of a foreigner smiling sheepishly with their offspring. Please don’t change, Vietnam. I love holding babies. I ate durian and then kissed a guy. Okay — so you know me: I’m pretty much a try-anything-once kind of girl. And one of the reasons I wanted to live in Asia was the food (forget the burgers and pizzas, give me soggy noodles and gristly knee-joints any day!). So when my friend bought a whole durian from this street vendor on Bui Vien one night — she just had the cutest kid — I knew I had to try some! It smelled like a rancid pile of warm garlic, and I think I gagged a little when I took my first bite, but YOLO, bitches! I finished the whole thing and then made out with this Irish guy for like 30 minutes. I don’t think he even noticed. Irish guys are hot, and I guess they like durian too.

Who is the Ao Dai? The Ao Dai came to Vietnam with the best of intentions — to explore this far corner of the world and make it better, and take plenty of smiling Facebook pictures while she’s at it. For every “I can’t believe I’m really in VIETNAM!” update she posts, she averages 74.7 likes, and 8.6 “OMG you are so beautiful!!!!!” comments. The Ao Dai is conscientious, caring and careful, which how she’s managed to keep so many good friends in her life. She has deep convictions, and devotes a lot of thought to romance and what it should be. As far as the real thing, she’s not overly bothered — it will come to her when the moment is right, just like it does in all those movies. In Vietnam, she’s gotten herself into her share of weird situations, most occurring when her reasonable approach clashes with unreasonable circumstances. She always finds her out of them though, with the type of story that she’ll share long after returning to her home country.

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Who is the Tanktop Romeo? He’s a man of the world, and he’s seen it all. He’s been “in the tubing” in Laos. He’s sipped formaldehyde-laced rum buckets under azure skies and sampled the finest fried insects from here to Chiang Mai. The ladies find his tales of adventure, and hearty application of AXE body spray, irresistibly alluring. He is a rebel, a risk taker, a man who wears neon short-shorts in public. The Tanktop Romeo is not merely a chiseled block of KFCfed granite, nay… he is also a man of intellect and charm. Thanks to his near-photographic memory he can recall the location of every ladies’ night special in Vietnam, as well as the aforementioned ladies’ receptiveness to impromptu body shots. Some may scoff at the Tanktop Romeo’s apparent lack of social delicacy, but rest assured that he really doesn’t give a damn what you think, brah.

I gave Vietnamese people 'happy' cookies. It was for a birthday party

potluck sort of thing, but everything was coming together late as usual. My girlfriend’s Vietnamese coworkers came before any of her expat friends, who were supplying the food. The cookies were the first thing out. Everyone was warned, but maybe not enough. The cookies were gone super fast, one guy even had two of them. And then the food came, everything was normal, and I thought it would be okay. An hour in, people started passing out. A girl said to me that she felt tired, so tired, so I told her to lie down. But then her friends started trying to wake her up, and when they couldn’t wake her up they started panicking. Others were walking around like zombies, stumbling into things. We had to lock the balcony door, because we were afraid of what one girl would do. It was not a fun time.

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Our neighbours broke down our gate. Happily ensconced in my latest Tinderella one night, I became aware of a commotion in my alley. Nothing unusual, I thought at first — I shared a typical Vietnamese ‘skinny-rise’ with seven other teachers, calmness had nothing to do with this place. As the intensity of the distraction rose however, it became clear that this had something to do with us — then I walked onto the balcony and saw our neighbours brandishing a large pole at the front gate! I ran to the rooftop, where people typically hung out. It turns out the neighbours and my housemate had been engaged in a backand-forth: they throw a bottle at our place, my housemate pisses off the roof. Down below, they looked like they’d lost their patience with this game — and bang, they were inside. “Holy s*** they’re in the house!” “What are they going to do?” Unsure whether to stand our ground or confront them, we decided to s*** our pants and do nothing. Expecting them to come tearing up the stairs at any moment, the cavalry never arrived. Heart attack over, our neighbours had proved their point — “we can get in foreigners, don’t f*** with us”.

I drank with some guys on the street. My bike had run out of gas, and I

walked up to the gas station with an empty water bottle to get some more. On the way back, I noticed three Vietnamese guys drinking in the middle of one of those small triangular traffic medians in the middle of the street, next to the stood-up tyres that showed they fixed flats. “Yo white with the gas” is basically what they said in Vietnamese. And we just sat on the median drinking moonshine, traffic passing us on all sides.

I got scarred in a bike crash. It’s a typical story. I left my bike at home for a heavy night, but got on the back of my friend’s bike because it was cheaper than a taxi. There was no-one on the road at 1am, and we cut down the street at 70km/h. When another biker sped out of a cross-alley without looking, we went flying. And I

landed on my face. A couple of days later, I was feeling well enough to leave the room on my own. But everywhere I went, people stared at me. One guy pointed me out to his friend while I was walking past. Another guy, his arm over his girlfriend’s shoulder, turned his head when I walked behind them. He kept his head turned, still walking, until I yelled, “WHAT?” But that wasn’t the worst part. People would stop me in bars on the way to my friends’ table: “What happened to you?” I would watch my friends chat up girls and tell them about their travels or tattoos; all my conversations would lead to accident stories. When I got my stitches out, the doctor asked me if I’d considered plastic surgery. This s*** lasted for about a month. Then my eyebrow grew back in, the scar got less obscene and I met a girl. Now it looks kind of cool.

I partied at a convenience store. Three months into my travel, my visa was running out and I was leaving a whole crew of people behind. I decided to have a party. In my typical style back then, I couldn’t stand the thought of going to a real bar, and my guesthouse’s lobby couldn’t hold all the people I figured would show up. We decided to pack the Shop & Go near Bui Vien, the one that had a small counter toward the back and is now some kind of pharmacy. We called it ‘Shop & Stay’. At 8.30pm sharp all the people on the Facebook page were supposed to arrive, as my singersongwriter friend played a short set in front of the beer fridges. Of course, everyone was late. But a half-hour later the place was packed. People were drinking in the aisles and out front. We made sure that everyone paid for their drinks, although the counter workers were still plenty nervous. One extra worker came from somewhere to join his coworkers behind the counter (this was the same Shop & Go where I’d seen a sleeping employee emerge from a closed storage cabinet). We smiled at them and took pictures. They smiled at us, and sold us more beer. A little while later we left the most unique party I’ve been to out here. The lesson as always: white people can get away with anything!

The Tanktop Romeo

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I took a 13-year-old's cell phone away. It was the first class of the semester, and I was trying to lay down the law. So I took this girl’s cell phone from her in the beginning of class, and when she caused a fuss I made her stand and face the blackboard. Then I started to introduce myself to the class, and the girl started writing things on the board. As I was saying “My name is Ms” — she wrote “dog”. Which I thought was kind of funny. But then she erased that and wrote “s***”. At this point I wanted to make an example out of her, so I told my TA to take her to the principal. She flipped out, ran to the back of the class, grabbed a razor blade from her pencil case and held it to her arm, screaming, “Give me my phone back or I’ll cut myself!” She took off toward the bathroom, and five other students ran after her. She came back bleeding from some surface cuts she’d made on her wrist, which was now a 10cm block of redness. When the other students in the class saw, they immediately lost it. One kid started crying, and another girl straight up had an asthma attack. The principal came and corralled the girl and her minions, and left me to teach for the remaining 20 minutes. Afterwards, I had to write up a report. I was sure I was going to get fired, but I kept teaching there for another month or so.

I got drunk on rice wine. I’d been in

Vietnam barely six months when I visited my friend Thao at her family home in the countryside. Her father Tuan promptly led me to a cupboard lined with bottles of expensive-looking rice wines. Encouraged by the news that I was a newcomer to Vietnam, he grabbed a nearby jar containing suspicious red lumps at the bottom. After some back and forth, I soon learned that the suspicious lumps were actually “chunks of deer horn” that would make me “strong… like a deer”. Obviously. Before I knew it I was sitting cross-legged on the floor, raising a shot glass. At the fourth round, I tried to call it quits. “He says four is not a lucky number, you need another,” said Thao. At the eighth, I tried again. “No, he says nine is a luckier number than eight.” “What number is lucky??” I slurred, as her father cheekily surveyed the sweat running down my forehead. At the 11th, things started going downhill. “He says, one more for good health,” she pleaded with a smirk. The next morning I awoke face down on the couch, having fertilised the front garden with a thick pool of vomit. The last thing

I remember was Thao’s father cackling hysterically in the background. Rice wine: 1; Me: 0.

I could have been a dog pimp. Every day

I venture out of the house to take my ginger cocker spaniel Roxy for a walk. With her ginger locks and ear-to-ear smile, she never fails to attract attention. One summer afternoon last year, a burly Vietnamese fellow with an even burlier pitbull approached us. He started, “I will give you VND100,000 for —” before pointing down at his frightening-looking pit bull and then, with his hips, gyrating back and forth while pointing at Roxy. Had Roxy (recently spayed) been even slightly interested in the slobbering muscle hound sniffing at her perfectly groomed posterior, I may have considered such a proposition. After all, who would I be to deny her the freedom of being with a dog she loved? But, alas, with a yank at the leash and her nose in the air, her thoughts became clear. “Guess that’s a ‘no’ then, pal.”

I've been building a school in Nepal for the last 22 months. Right now it’s at

stage five, which means we’ve got a cement foundation down and a temporary roof. I’ve posted a bunch of sick YouTube vids on my site helpingthekidshelpthemselves.org, so go check ‘em out and donate. Unfortunately I don’t have any footage of the actual school being built, because the local tribesmen or whatever built it while I’ve been away for about a year — workin’ like a dawg at my daytime teachin’ gig. Those Nepalese guys work for like 60 cents a day! I presented my project one day at this awesome global speaking event. The response I had was sooo positive. I got some of my teacher friends to sing at the end with me. Everyone loved it. Anyway, stage six is we’re gonna buy a few cows and make the whole thing self-sufficient, apparently we can get some locals to run it and with the profits totally pay for the teachers’ salaries, a few extra building costs, the farmers to run the dairy farm and a shed for them to sleep in. We’re improving lives one step at a time out here, it’s awesome!

I'm not so handsome. But it’s what everybody used to say to me when I arrived here last summer. I could never quite get used to it. Back home, no-one ever said anything like that, not because I’m bad looking, but because it’s just something you don’t say. But that all changed a few months ago when I started going steady with Lan. She

Who is the Intern? She’s been to art school, and she can’t understand why you can’t get a decent glass of Pinot Grigio out here. “Oh you can? Alright, meet you there at 5.30!” She came to Vietnam determined to work harder, smarter and better than all those lazy, established types — then got her first month’s check for VND20 million, and realised she’s already better paid than 85 percent of the population and there were yoga classes she’d been missing. The months since then have been a blur of new friends, beach holidays and workplaces that don’t live up to their billing. But hey, she’ll be gone in six months, and she’ll be able to add “open-minded” to her CV.

was one of the people who’d told me that I was handsome, and for once I’d found myself falling for someone — her. It started with the mandatory afternoon coffees before she went back to work. I used to tell my colleagues that I had a meeting. I guess I did, really. And then when we got past two weeks of seeing each other almost every day, it happened. Within a week Lan had inserted herself in my apartment — I came home one day and the wardrobe was filled with her clothes. The next thing was her quitting her job in the bar. But things really got strange when the rings appeared. One for her, one for me. She even wanted me to wear mine on my wedding finger. I objected, then she went silent. Didn’t speak to me for three days. I gave in. It took me a few weeks to notice it, but I suddenly realised I was no longer being told I was handsome. At first I thought it was something to do with my appearance and I spent a few days looking at myself in the mirror, trying to work out if I’d changed. But then it clicked. It was the ring. No wonder Lan wanted me to wear it. It told everyone that I was taken.

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Who is the Adventurer? She might have ended up here at the end of a long travel — randomly, yet easily, like most things go in her life. Since then she’s gotten comfortable, perhaps even a bit too comfortable. That’s when she knows it’s time to shake things up. She has climbed mountains. She has drunk snake blood. She went to your party last weekend, but left to go bridge jumping at sunrise. Where other expats would complain, the Adventurer merely smiles. Whether it’s party pigs on a leash or drinking all the flavours of Sting in one sitting, she’s game for anything this country can throw at her.

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I got a tattoo in Cambodia. It was six years ago, and I was in Phnom Penh for the first time — which was a very different place to what it is now. I wanted a tattoo and asked the tuk tuk driver I was friendly with. He told me he knew a place, that he’d take me there. The next day he took me on my own for a two-hour drive into the countryside, to a village submerged in floodwater. I had to get on a homemade raft dragged along by a small naked boy and the tuk tuk driver, and they brought me to a house where a man had everything piled on top of his roof because the rest of the house was in floods. They put a duvet on the roof and told me to go to sleep! They took out the tattoo gun on an extension cord running through the flood from downstairs, and did a tattoo that supposedly says ‘smile’ in Khmer, but no-one has ever been able to read it. After it was done they brought me back to the raft and the naked child and tuk tuk driver pulled me through the whole village so all the locals could come out and look at me sailing past. Passing under a bridge, I saw an old man in a wheelchair holding onto a scarf that was tied to a motorbike driving over it, pure fear in his eyes. My first taste of Cambodia. I broke up a street fight. It was past

midnight, and I was heading cross-town to the next stop. I got pulled over at a traffic stop, complete with a bike-seizing truck. Employing my usual deflection I got away with a small fine, but I was a bit rattled.

I took it slow from then on. Driving down a small shortcut road, I saw a crashed motorbike in the middle of the road, and a taxi pulled over at a hasty angle. Pulling over I saw three people, two of them grappling with each other. The girl had a bloodied chin and was holding her arm. One of the men had blood on his hands, as he grabbed the other’s hair and neck, trying to pull him into his punches. I ran up to them and tried to break it up. I felt some fear as I saw them going for each other’s eyes. I put hands on both of their shoulders, saying lam on over and over. Other people gathered to watch, but no-one helped. After a while of this, exhausted, they let go. They started yelling, then the cab driver swerved away. And then I recognised them — the couple who’d been next to me at the traffic stop. They spoke English well. I asked if I could do anything — take them to hospital, buy them a drink. They thanked me and said no. They’d been two minutes from home, and just wanted, finally, to get there.

I danced with a baby pig. It was a

Vietnamese fashion show, and I guess they just wanted to take it up to 11. So they let a baby pig out on the dance floor. People were holding onto its red lead as it scruffled about, pissing all over. I was wearing flip flops, so I didn’t mind so much, and we danced with the pig all night long. I haven’t seen much like that since.

Sorry, I can't marry your daughter. After moving into an apartment with my boyfriend Sean, it became apparent to us

that our landlord was scheming to set us up with one of her daughters. We thought this was pretty hilarious given how obvious it was that we slept in the same bed and always answered questions with “we this, we that”. However, one afternoon after the landlord called, claiming she had to “stop by to check the hot water was okay”, she arrived with said daughter in tow. The daughter, educated overseas and embarrassed at being hauled over to the apartment to meet her gay future husband, caught on pretty quickly. “So, how do I explain to your mother that Sean and I are a couple?” I asked her after the landlord pretended to busy herself in the other room with our water heater. “I will explain it to her — she’ll be fine,” she whispered. “She will be disappointed though.” From then on, we never had any problems with our hot water.

I was born in Saigon but left when I was only two years old. A helicopter

landed in my uncle’s garden and airlifted most of my family out of the city. We were lucky.

I finally came back to Vietnam as an adult, but circumstances were different. In my teens I became a surfer, taking to the waves in California. Now I did the same in Vietnam, heading to Mui Ne and waiting for the surf. I quickly became a fixture there. But as much as I love surfing, the sea and the beach life, I needed something else to do with my time. Life has been good to me. If my family had have stayed in Vietnam, our future would have been fraught with uncertainty. It’s the price you pay for being on the losing side. But by being brought up in America, I was given opportunities, the type of opportunities my contemporaries in Vietnam never received. So, I decided to volunteer for an NGO. I now spend much of my time in Phan Rang in Central Vietnam. The province is largely untouched, the people poor, and in need of our help. Because I speak Vietnamese, have an innate understanding of the culture here. And yet I am Western. This puts me in a unique position — my efforts have made a difference.

The Adventurer

The Frequent Flyer

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I've formed an opinion of the dating scene. In the past five years I’ve had

the time to observe and participate in the Vietnam dating game, and these are the expat men I’ve found: — The social butterfly type. He is good one-night stand material. He refuses commitment mainly because he’s only staying in Vietnam for the short term, or he doesn’t have his s*** together yet. You always meet him in bars or parties. It can be somewhat awkward afterwards, since the cities here are like villages, and you are bound to meet again. — The one with “yellow fever”. I don’t like the term either. He is only interested in dating Vietnamese girls. The competition in this case is impossible. — The unicorn. He is open to dating foreign women and more if you get on. He’s a very rare specimen, and the competition is extremely fierce. He won’t stay single for long. — The Tinder guy. He might have just arrived in Vietnam, and is mostly looking for friends or free tour guides. If he is not new to town, you probably already know each other or have too many friends in common. In both cases it’s too awkward to swipe right.

I stopped being honest to strangers. I met my Vietnamese girlfriend when we were both abroad. We’ve visited Vietnam a few times together, but this time I decided to stay in the country for a while to get closer to her family, and to explore the ‘exotic’ culture here. I get along quite well with her father, and we didn’t have to drink rice wine to get to that point. We meet in the park a few times a week for language exchange; he wanted to learn English to watch foreign football channels and I obviously wanted to learn more Vietnamese. Sometimes we go swimming together, too. One day, as we were heading to the pool, some local guys spoke to my girlfriend’s father from a distance. “Where’s that Tay guy from?” I heard them asking him in Vietnamese. “France,” he replied. As a young guy coming from a tiny town in Pennsylvania where everyone knows each other and are generally friends and neighbours, I was surprised, and curious to know why he had lied to them. He said he just gave them an answer “for fun”. They asked him for fun, so he didn’t feel the need to give a real answer. It’s that simple. And that’s how I learnt you don’t always need to be honest (particularly to strangers) in Vietnam.

I look thinner in my picture. A few years ago, I was searching for a translatorassistant for a project, and was interviewing candidates on the second floor of a café. As I walked a possible candidate up the stairs, she behind me, she said that I was a lot fatter

in real life than in my profile picture. Wow. It took me a few minutes to settle down, and I did try to remind myself that this was just a cultural difference. But needless to say, she did not get the job. I am not a size S in any country. In Europe I am an L or XL, but in Vietnam I am an XXXL. I had a difficult time learning to accept my body, and strangely Vietnamese culture is helping me come to terms with it. We don’t comment on people’s shape in the west, out of respect for people’s feelings — and if people do comment, it’s never meant in a nice way. But in Vietnam it’s just a matter-of-fact statement, not a judgment. The first time someone bluntly told me “Wow, you are fat!” I was shocked and upset. But now I just reply, “You don’t say! I hadn’t noticed! Thanks for letting me know.”

I brought 'contraband' in my checkin luggage. Full disclosure — I never fly

anywhere without at least two vibrators. I’m not a nymphomaniac or anything, but a girl has needs and I’m not ashamed of meeting my own when the situation requires it. I’ve been through about 40 different airports and never had any problems, which made my experience in Noi Bai even more embarrassing. Here’s the short version: as I was queuing for the X-ray machine, two security guards grabbed me by the shoulders and pulled me into a small room. There was a pile of suitcases on the floor, with my checked bag on top. It was open, and another guard was holding my big purple vibrator in the air like it was a gun. They didn’t speak any English, and I don’t know the Vietnamese word for “sex toy”, so I had to pantomime what it was for. It would’ve been funny if I hadn’t been so terrified.

I got s***-talked. I was going out for

lunch with a couple coworkers, a Filipino guy and a Vietnamese woman. As we walked towards our restaurant, two women sat on the street picking watermelon seeds said something in Vietnamese. The woman I was with suddenly turned pale. “What’s wrong?” I asked. “What did they say?” “Oh nothing,” she replied. I could see that whatever their comment was, she was trying to pull herself together. Later, after we finished lunch, my colleague finally came out with it. “Do you know what those two women on the street said about me?” she said. We shook our heads. “They said. ‘Wow, look at her! With two big men. She’s strong!’” Both me and my other colleague burst out laughing. After a while I said, “You should take that as a compliment!” “I know,” she replied. “But when they said it I wasn’t sure whether to be embarrassed, amused or angry.”

Who is the Frequent Flyer? She’s only in town for a few weeks — this time — but that doesn’t mean it’s all work and no play. No, as she tells everyone within earshot, she missed the crazy energy of this place, the spontaneity, the friendships. What she doesn’t say is that she also appreciates the opportunity for no-strings-attached behaviour her situation gives her. Her first time in the country was sometime in the 2000s, or was it the 1990s? Either way, she’s left ghosts behind in every corner of this modern country — and they’re not the scary kind either, they’re the ghosts of way more fun times than she’s currently having. And she’s still having a lot of fun. As far as love, let’s just say she’s got a history. She’s been in her share of serious relationships, and more than a few have ended ugly. Uglily. Whatever. But this time might be different. After all she’s just gotten back here, things are way different than they were a couple of years ago, and the world is her oyster.

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Who is the Lifer? It’s hard to include this guy on the list, because he’s not really an expat anymore. In the apartment block he lives in, he’s the only westerner, but he never gets stared at. He is definitely wearing all the clothes you’d see a xe om driver clad in, and definitely has a packet of Cravens in his top pocket. He lives out of town, in the same accommodation since the mid-1990s. He laughs at the amount of money you’ve been tricked into paying for your serviced apartment or your villa with a pool, you lame expat. He only ventures into the downtown districts when it’s 100 percent necessary... and absolutely hates it.

In my case, in town I’d always refrained. In the summer it was too hot, the helmets were always too bulky, and unless you could put them inside your bike, you ran the risk of having it stolen. When I told this to a Vietnamese friend of mine he looked at me with long eyes — “You’re turning Vietnamese,” he said. Yet when I added that I always wore a helmet when I was driving the highways, his response was, “Okay, maybe only 50 percent.” A few years later I was in Yen Bai, a city north of Hanoi, and was driving on the main road out of town. In the past I wouldn’t have worn a helmet on this stretch of tarmac, but with the law being the law, I’d kind of accepted that sometimes you just have to do as you’re told. From nowhere a truck pulled out in front of me. The movement was so sudden, that I didn’t have time to stop. I braked and somehow skidded my bike out of its way. But I came off and smacked my head on the road. If the accident had happened before 2007, I would have been dead. Now, though, all I had was a bit of concussion, a few grazes and an easily stitched-up hole in the left side of my forehead. The helmet, or maybe I should say the helmet law, saved my life.

I became immune to the mixed-race couple age gap. With so many foreign I visited Vinh City. More like Grim City, actually. Hailed by Vietnamese

holidaymakers as a “seaside getaway”, Grim Vinh is often touted for its wide French boulevards, hotel-lined beachfronts and endless supply of Vietnamese street food cafés. Sounds like a dream, right? Well, it’s not. Those beachfronts? Dirty. The hotel? Besieged by bus-in-bus-out tour groups and ruined by 5am shouting of “em oi!” over the sides of balconies to the lower levels. And breakfast, you ask? Served from 6am to 8am sharp, only. Luckily we were guests of the hotel owner, otherwise we would have been forsaken to the hellish unknowns of Vinh breakfast food. But the real tipping point? When my request for more milk was rebuffed with the answer “that is the regulation amount of milk. If you want more, you have to pay.” That was the last time we ever went to Vinh. Vinh is terrible. There, I said it.

When the helmet law was first introduced in 2007, I was against it. Not because I didn’t understand the reason for it, but because it took away one of the freedoms we had in Vietnam — the freedom to choose whether we use a motorbike helmet or not.

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retirees or former Australian GIs living in Vung Tau — where I lived a decade ago — it was the nature of the place. I guess I just got used to it. The first time I returned to the city after I moved away my attitude changed. I was MCing at a friend’s wedding. The groom was Australian and in his 50s, the bride Vietnamese and in her 40s. When I sat down at one of two ‘expat’ tables with my wife, I realised how out of place we were. While myself and my wife, who is Vietnamese, are of similar age, every other couple was comprised of a 50 or 60-year-old white man with a 20-yearold Vietnamese woman. As I watched the arse slaps, listened to conversations about hookers and overheard chatter in Vietnamese about buying houses, make-up and Gucci, I became disgusted. So did my wife. When it comes to age range, the everyday person will view us as ‘normal’. But here we were the odd ones out.

I know my Vietnamese is far from perfect, but come on guys, give me a break. I’ve been here many years now

and my relationship with my wife is in Vietnamese. I even go to a local Vietnamese church and pray in Vietnamese. So, what is it with you? Why can’t you just let

foreigners in? Hey, we give you a break in our countries. This morning was typical. I went to a café and asked for “mot lon so da voi da”. Come on, it’s a can of soda with ice, right? But no, the girl there just stared at me and looked blank. So, I repeated myself. On the third go she just handed me the menu. I was starting to get angry. When you spend as long as I have learning the language, it’s damn frustrating when you’re not understood. So, I repeated myself, this time really slowly as if I was talking to a baby. Now she got me, repeating my words verbatim. So, I added, “Khong co lay chanh,” or please don’t give me any lemon. Once again I got the blank look. So I tried again, even more slowly. Ah, suddenly everything was okay now. I just don’t get why it should be so problematic. Learning Vietnamese is difficult, not because the language itself is so hard, but because of the way people can react to you. And that, for me, is madness.

It took me years to work out where to take visitors. My instinct was to take

them by taxi to the tourist sites or the good Vietnamese restaurants. But I always felt I was not really letting my friends and family get a real sense of what life is like out here. So one time when my cousin and her boyfriend were in Hanoi, I tried something different. With me on one motorbike driving my cousin, we got a xe om driver for the other bike to drive the boyfriend. We started at the obligatory One Pillar Pagoda, me flinging them in while waiting outside in the shade, xe om style, trying to get some shut eye. A 15-minute snooze later they were out so we drove past the mausoleum. After that I threw away the guidebook and took them around West Lake, down to the beach area behind Au Co, and to a streetside tea stand where I like to sit over a couple of pipes of thuoc Lao. The head rush my cousin got from a pipe was hysterical. She almost fell over. The final part of the trip was driving halfway across Long Bien Bridge and descending onto Middle Warp. There we walked through the banana plantations and stumbled across the naked swimmers. My cousin and her boyfriend couldn’t stop laughing at the strangeness of it all. And then I gave them the sunset view over Chuong Duong Bridge with the city in the background. Every time I see my cousin she talks about that tour. She’s done a lot of travelling, but she got to see what the place she was visiting was really like, and more importantly, what my life was like. For her that was priceless.

The Lifer

The Balding Ponytail

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My taxi driver pissed himself. The taxi driver was chatting away in a friendly manner, but I hadn’t the first idea what any of it meant. I told him (in Vietnamese) that I can’t speak Vietnamese very well. Ironically, I can deliver this phrase very well. And so, because he thought I was being modest, he kept on going. “I don’t understand,” my second best Vietnamese phrase, I said again, and again, and again. Eventually, he gave up and we rode along in what felt to me like a hostile silence. When we hit the highway he stopped the car and got out. He walked over to a low wall, and with his back to me and the morning traffic, he began to urinate onto a tall weed — the jet of his piss making it sway like a metronome. Then his stream must have bounced off the leaves onto his leg, because he jumped back suddenly and did this funny sort of dance like there was a ferret in his pants. When he returned to the car, I saw a stain trailing the leg of his tan slacks. He got behind the wheel and I briefly caught his eye in the rearview mirror. His look was flawlessly lucid, it said everything there is to be said about being pissed off, and being pissed on. I made an obscene gesture (by accident!). I was at my usual photo lab to

drop off some films. In the lot there was this special film that I used to experiment with cross processing. I’ve been going to this lab for years and the lady knows me well. In my broken Vietnamese and her broken English, we understood each other as I told her how valuable that film was. I crossed my fingers for good luck. She looked me up and down with reproachful eyes and it hit me: I had just made the sign for vagina to her. I became red and apologised profusely, shaking my hands, trying to explain it means good luck in the west. She looked at me dubiously, but then smiled and blinked. She and I are definitely closer since.

My landlord pawned my Vespa to pay for his secret girlfriend. My landlord

was cool, a typical Viet Kieu playboy. He was married, plus he had a mistress on the side. And I helped pay his mistress’s way. After the second month of living in this very swanky rental, my landlord asked me for two extra months rent in advance, as a security deposit. My monthly rent was VND10 million, and he wanted VND20

million on top. When I asked him why, he confessed that he was also renting an apartment for his girlfriend. He said this in a very obliging way. I agreed because I loved the house, and could afford it at the time. It was a great place, at least until my landlord decided to cancel my three-year lease. His wife was pregnant, it turned out, and she wanted to move back into the house. Once more, I agreed. I left my Vespa at the house and asked him if he could keep it for two days, after which I’d retrieve it and all of my belongings. When I came back two days later my Vespa was gone, not to mention all of my furniture and everything else. As landlords always say, “We pay garbage collector to dump.” He told me, to my face, that he paid someone VND20 million to “dump” my Vespa. But, when I threatened to tell his wife about his mistress, he caved. To find my freshly repainted Vespa I had to make a trip to a district I’d never been to, but I got it back.

I had my bike 'borrowed' for a pizza delivery. I was at the Irish bar I usually go

to here. I checked my bike and went in. But for some reason I wasn’t really feeling it, and decided to leave after one drink, way shorter than I usually stay. When I came outside, I didn’t see my bike. No bike-keeper either. I stood outside waiting for somebody, checking my phone. Next thing I know, I see my bike flying by, delivery pizzas bungeed to the back.

Who is the Balding Ponytail? The Balding Ponytail is a real cool dude, man. Has he shown you pictures of the sweet chopper he drove back home yet? The Balding Ponytail drives a Yamaha Nuovo now, but believe him — he’s had some much sweeter rides in his day. The Balding Ponytail keeps getting older, but the women who reject his advances stay the same barely legal age. A total lack of success is no reason to lose heart, though. The Balding Ponytail remains convinced of his sexual prowess despite overwhelming evidence to the contrary. When the young English teachers and miniskirt-clad beer girls have all left the bar, the Balding Ponytail is left alone with his half-finished “big Tiger” and memories of bygone days. Head held high, he proudly mounts his automatic scooter and drives home.

I tried to ask a question in an expat Facebook group. I may be a big guy, but

I have celiac disease, which means eating foods with gluten (bread, pretzels, cereal… anything good, basically) causes severe stomach pain, constipation and a lot of other nasty side effects. When I first moved to Vietnam I was really worried about finding gluten-free foods — it’s hard to enjoy living in a new place if you’re constantly sick, right? So I joined a Facebook group called Expats in Ho Chi Minh City, figuring that there must be some fellow celiacs living in Vietnam who could offer insider advice. I posted my questions and went to bed. When I woke up in the morning, I saw that there were a dozen replies to my question. Awesome! But instead of telling me where to find wheat-flour substitutes or gluten-free bakeries, the replies all told me to go f*** myself for following pretentious western diet fads. One especially helpful commenter suggested I eat my own s***. So that was the last time I tried to ask for help online.

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Who is the Creeper? He won’t ever marry, he’s The Creeper. Roaming, sexual, subhuman. The Creeper doesn’t think of himself as a sexual predator. He’s actually pretty nice to chat to in the bar. You might catch a hint of bitterness in his allusions to “those western whores”, but then you remind yourself that it takes all kinds. The thing about The Creeper is, in his mind, he’s just had a bad run. He used to have non-financial relationships with women, but has since learned his lesson. “You give them an inch, they’ll take a mile” is a phrase he’s fond of saying about the girls he watches on the webcam. The thing is, he doesn’t have quite that much to work with. But he’s making do with what he’s got, which right now is a wallet full of cash and the whole night ahead of him.

I traded my Nikes for flip flops. I went

home with this girl one night. She wasn’t the one I’d come to the club with, but it was too loud in there to talk and we started playing the game where you pass a napkin around, mouth to mouth. It just happened. Fast-forward to six hours later, I just wanted to get out of there. I told her I had work and needed to leave, even skipped taking a shower. I thought if I could leave quickly enough she wouldn’t notice me not asking her number. We got downstairs to the ground floor of her room-by-room rental, and I couldn’t find my Nikes. I’d left them on the top stair before the door, about two metres in from the gate. Now I noticed the gaps in the metal, just big enough to pull a shoe through. But we had to search, because that’s what people do when they lose something. Her landlord even helped. She asked my name. We looked a little longer, and then she gave me a decaying pair of shower flip flops to wear home.

I showed up to work drunk. Vietnamese public holidays don’t mean much to us expats, but we still like to get the time off — especially when the kids we’re supposed to be teaching are nowhere to be found. But my employer didn’t feel that way. So on this specific one, not only was I drunk when I got to the office, I continued to get drunker throughout the day. Specifically encouraged not to drink by management, it seemed inevitable that we would. With four other conspirators in tow, I called a liquid lunch in session. Initially attempting a beer ‘n’ bowl, thank god we ended up at a beer club. There we quaffed litre-steins of brownish and yellow lager between lunchtime — which in Vietnam on a public holiday is exactly 11.01am — and about 3.15pm in the afternoon. For the last hour we literally played ‘alcohol chicken’, each of us buying ‘one more round’ as our inebriation was confirmed. Satisfied with our four-hour schoolboy prank, a taxi was procured to take us back to the office. Creeping back in, reeking of booze and barely keeping it together, we were soon back it come 5.31pm — back-slapping the hell out of each other as we topped up our afternoon buzz. I got pissed on.

One of the best parts of being a guy is the ability to urinate standing up, pretty much wherever you want. And here in Vietnam, men take full advantage of this. There’s supposed to be a code, though — keep your back to traffic, no more than three “I’m finished” shakes, and so on. And definitely don’t piss on other people. Sometimes it doesn’t always work out that way, though. One night as I was fumbling

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with the keys to our front gate, I felt a splatter of warm liquid on my head. I thought, “F***, rain at this time?” Then I look up and see my girlfriend’s father, drunk as a lord, waving his dick at me from the rooftop terrace. He was laughing his head off… guess he was proud of his aim.

I threw my flatmate's toe into the trash. True story. A housemate at the time

had a serious motorcycle accident. He spent five days in hospital and everyone we knew was shook up. Luckily he recovered and the cab driver that took him out covered some costs, but the collateral damage was high — my friend had lost a toe, severed by the wheel in the collision. On his repatriation, human souvenir in hand, we joked that his toe should be made into jewellery, or hidden in a bowl of pho — the ‘toe pho’. But it didn’t happen, because while walking around the house one morning, hung over and in no state to be making spring-cleaning decisions, I threw out from the fridge what I believed to be a small nugget of dirty brown stuff, and you get the rest — it wasn’t. “Where the f*** is my toe?” is not a question you hear in sincerity very often, but my brain just didn’t connect. When it did a few days later, the colour drained from my face. I immediately went back to the bin I’d discarded it in, and lo and behold, his tiny appendage was still there! But it had gone off, and its owner decided it was too late, and all we have now is the memory of my stupidity.

I was attacked by a gang of taxi drivers. This beat-up silver taxi was

swerving wildly across the road, the driver talking on his cell phone and blaring his horn the way those a**holes always do. So when we pulled up the stoplight, I slapped his mirror. I pulled away, and suddenly there was a roar behind me. The taxi driver was literally trying to run me over. So I turned off onto the sidewalk and stopped my bike at a furniture shop, the taxi skidding up next to me. The taxi driver got out and started yelling at me. A crowd of people gathered around, taking videos with their phones. The taxi driver picked up a broken block of concrete and swung it at my head. Luckily I had my helmet on, so it only dazed me a little, but I knew I had to leave fast. So I leapt on my bike and started to drive away, only for another taxi to cut me off. I swerved around it, when I saw to my horror that two MORE taxi drivers were blocking my path. They tried to pull me off my bike but my bag snapped and I got away. F*** taxi drivers, man.

The Creeper

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The Apron

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I learned the name of that big place the French built. After a year in Hanoi,

I can authoritatively conclude that there is absolutely no reason to leave West Lake. I have all I need right here — restaurants, supermarkets, yoga. So when my lunch club decided that we should try a place “downtown”, I was baffled. It’s not as if I’ve never been to other parts of Hanoi. When the family first moved we visited that little lake (what’s it called? You know, the one with the turtle) and we even took a weekend trip to a resort. But now that I’m a local I find it much nicer to just stay where there’s less chaos and yelling. And where everyone speaks English — it’s not that I don’t like the Vietnamese (after all, I do live here so I’m not racist), it’s just that I have no reason to ever talk to them. In the end the excursion was better than expected. The pizza and wine were quite good and I got to see a few new things. I was particularly taken with that large, ornate place near the lake — just like buildings in Paris. Apparently it’s an Opera House — it turns out Hanoi has an Opera House, who knew?

I followed a dog catcher.

I was driving cross-town when I saw him, carrying two doggies in a basket on the back of his bike. I felt really crazy that day, I couldn’t let it go. I followed him and stopped him. He didn’t speak any English and I don’t speak Vietnamese. Using a lot of gestures, I asked him to follow me to the pet clinic I volunteer at. Thank God, he followed me. The doctor at the clinic helped us to negotiate with him. The dog catcher finally agree to let those two doggies go with VND2 million. After that, they were treated and rehabilitated at the clinic and went to a foster care home. Now they’ve been adopted by nice families. I’m still connected with the owner of one of them, and visited Sasha at her new home once. I’d first met her on the back of that bike, looking at me with the most nervous eyes, and I almost didn’t recognise this happy, well-fed pup.

I'm not rich!

When you’ve been in Vietnam as long as I have, you learn to be cautious — all the time. You’re fully aware of what is called “the white tax”. You know how to bargain and avoid getting ripped off or buying things at the “Tay price”. A big part of being smart enough to survive here is making this caution part of your instinct. Last month, I moved to a new place. It was the day when I needed to pay the rent but I had to go out. So I left the envelope for my landlord. Trust me, I counted the money about 10 times before sealing it in. But later that day,

my landlord phoned me and told me that it was VND500,000 short. “That’s impossible!” I told her, almost shouting. “I’ve counted it so many times!” My instinct told me that she was trying to cheat me, and secretly took the missing 500 out. You think I’m an idiot, a rich Tay that you can easily trick, don’t you? I thought to myself. I couldn’t wait to come home to confront her. To my surprise — and, needless to say, embarrassment — I came home and found that VND500,000 note still in my drawer. What’s wrong with me? I was once a true gentlewoman — maybe 10 years ago.

No, I don't have children yet.

My husband and I cram into the back of a small taxi. It’s late. I’m tired. And traffic is heavy. The driver strikes up conversation. It’s going to be a slow trip home. I stare out the window, pretending not to understand Vietnamese, while my husband answers the usual questions. Age, nationality, profession, marriage… and the inevitable, children? “Chua co,” my husband laughs as I roll my eyes. The driver sizes us up in the rearview mirror and shakes his head sadly. I groan. I’m tired of the reaction I get when I say I’ve been married five years and (happily) don’t have children. The confused looks irritate me, along with the insinuation that it is somehow my fault that my husband is not yet a father. But then something unprecedented happens. Instead of turning to my husband in concern, the driver gives me the sympathetic look. “Don’t worry — they are too much work and too expensive anyway,” he says. Then he looks to my husband and his expression changes. The connotation is all too clear — too many massages, no time at home, bad husband. The drive is suddenly more enjoyable.

Why should I make my son learn Vietnamese? It’s a language spoken in

only one country in the world — and even in that country, he gets along perfectly fine without it. But listen to him, the idiot, going on in front of my kid’s new teacher about how Vietnamese should be on the curriculum not just for Vietnamese students, but all students. Don’t you get it? This is an international school. An international school, right? And the language here is English. I decide to respond... politely. This is a parents’ meeting after all and we can speak our mind. We’ve been posted here for a short time and my son is already speaking three languages — German, Hungarian and English. Give him one more, I explain, and

Who is the Apron? The Apron is fed up. Fed up with the heat, fed up with the ants in her breakfast cereal, fed up with the Sting-stains on her kids’ clothes that are a constant reminder of her inability to make anything in this country work. The Apron used to have an exciting social life back home, when trips to the yoga studio or farmer’s market didn’t require a half-hour battle through the most hellacious traffic on earth. She could walk her cocker spaniel down the street without worrying about dog-thieves, and drink tap water without the subsequent bouts of dysentery. She didn’t have a maid, though… that part is pretty OK. The Apron is a frequent contributor to the expat groups of Facebook, where she wages Internet crusades against any fool with the unmitigated temerity to ask a question that was already asked several months ago. No, she is not “sexually frustrated” or “insecure” — why don’t you come a little closer and say that to her face?

it will be too difficult for him. And anyway — I’m now being a bit more assertive — we’re only here for three years. But this guy, he just won’t shut up. He goes on about how if you move to France, you learn French. Italy, Italian. Spain, Spanish. And now someone else adds to the conversation — learn Vietnamese, a tonal language, and it will be much easier for your child to learn Mandarin. But I don’t want my son to learn Mandarin. His home is Germany. My adopted home, my husband’s home. The most populous country in Europe. And that is where we’ll be going back to at the end of the posting. Some people just don’t get it.

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Who is the Suit? The Suit has been in Vietnam since you were in nappies, and he knows virtually everything there is to know about the country (except the language). He remembers when District 7 was all farmland, and when Noi Bai airport was slightly less awful. He can quote you the price of a bowl of pho in 2004, and provide a lengthy explanation of why it has skyrocketed since then. The Suit didn’t plan to stay for so long, but life has a funny way of getting people pregnant and awarding lucrative business contracts. And so the Suit has found himself a virtual ‘lifer’ in Vietnam, despite occasional longings for the cricket pitches / baseball diamonds / gladiatorial coliseums of his home. Having seen so many people come and go throughout the years, the Suit is wary of newcomers. He keeps his distance, preferring to confide only in those with similar long-term commitments in Vietnam. Until his third or fourth whisky, that is — after which anyone in earshot is fair game for an exhaustive oral history of his Asian experiences.

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My wife got angry that I let our daughter get a tan. Tanning is a big

no-no in Vietnam. Not necessarily because of the harmful impact on one’s health, but because of the implications of dark skin. When I visit a supermarket, I struggle to find a lotion or body wash or even a roll-on deodorant that won’t accidentally bleach my otherwise coco-coloured armpits. There are even entire shopping aisles dedicated to products that give one’s skin a healthy radioactive translucence. That’s why, when I let my mixed-race daughter stay out in the sun too long, I was in the doghouse. “Why does it matter?” I pleaded with my hysterical wife. “She looks beautiful with dark skin,” I added, grasping for the moral high ground.

I've heard my fair share of expat rumours in my time. But this one has to

be the best. It starts with a fridge and a guy — let’s call him Peter — who comes from somewhere in Europe. Peter moved to Hanoi sometime in the autumn and very quickly got a reputation. It had two sides. One was as a funloving drinking buddy, a riot, someone who would go on hysterical (but wildly expensive) drinking binges. Then came the stories floating up from Saigon. Peter had ‘borrowed’ the tips of a bar he worked in and never given them back. Or he had rented a motorbike and sold it to another expat. Or he had hired people and never paid them. Quickly the whispers went around town

— Hanoi’s still a village, you know. But the fridge story was the best. He was working in a restaurant, which will remain nameless, and sold a drinks fridge from the restaurant to another restaurant for a pretty large sum. A week later, the restaurant owner turned up, asking for his fridge back. Not wanting to cause trouble, the people who’d bought the fridge returned it. They then went in search of Peter. By chance they found him. And oh, did he get a beating. The last I heard, Peter had left the country. People like him get quickly found out in Vietnam. He’s not the first, and he certainly won’t be the last.

I like to think I'm a pretty tolerant guy. But if there’s one thing I can’t stand, it’s

people not queuing. It must be the English in me. If someone jumps the queue, I used to be the first person to say something. But one time I went just a little too far. I was at the Danang airport, next in line for check-in. As I was about to approach the counter, some local guy waltzed up in front of me and handed his papers to the check-in clerk. I must have been having a bad day, I don’t know. But what I did next was inexcusable. I grabbed the man by his collar — he was a head shorter than me — and lifted him up. I then walked him, his whole body in the air, to the back of the ten-person-long queue. I immediately felt sorry for the guy. Everyone watched the episode in astonishment — the guy must have felt so

ashamed. So I told myself that if this ever happened again, I would never lose my cool. It’s happened a few times since then, but now I don’t get angry, I just smile and explain my point. It works every time.

I used to hate Facebook. Everyone

seemed to be on it and by proxy, I found myself also getting an account. But it felt like an invasion of my privacy. It also seemed a waste of time, the kind of stuff people posted on there. That all changed with #Pantsgate. At the time when Pantsgate took over Hanoi, the Hanoi Massive Facebook Group only had about 2,000 members, not including me. I was sat in the office — it was a particularly boring day — when one of my colleagues burst out in laughter. “What’s up?” I asked. She ushered me over to her computer and showed me. Someone had put a post on Hanoi Massive with a photo of a pair of knickers that read something like this: Hey xxxxxxxx, here’s the underwear you left at my house when you were f***ing my boyfriend. Happy engagement! By this time the post already had 50 comments. So, I asked to join the group and was accepted immediately. The comments started off quite nicely, with people taking the piss. People wrote song lyrics, someone created a t-shirt. But then the tone changed — the guy who was

accused of the infidelity started getting nasty. The death threats came. Then it got amusing. Then it became nasty again. I think after about 400 comments the moderator took the post down. Everyone loves a good scandal, and this was a classic. For me, though, it changed my attitude to Facebook. Ever since then I’ve kept my eye on stuff — sometimes the things people write can be hilarious.

The trust issue in Vietnam has always irritated me. I’ve been here a long time and have found that once you’ve got a mutual understanding, no matter how small, the people you can trust the most are Vietnamese. I saw this firsthand after I opened my second bar. There was a ‘knife’ incident. A drunk customer had got angry with one of our barmaids. He grabbed her by the hair from the other side of the bar and tried to head-butt her. Avoiding the head-butt, she grabbed the guy’s beer bottle and smashed it on his face. He refused to let go of her hair and, screaming, she took a second swipe and slashed his cheek. The fight was quickly broken up, but not for the customer. The next day he went round town telling everyone that our bar manager had slashed him with a fruit knife. And the worst thing? All the foreigners out there believed him.

The Suit

He Says, She Says

Bar Talk Ugh, That Misogynistic Old Neocolonial is Hitting on the Waitress Again

I Love Being Judged by Self-Righteous English Teachers by Sandip Biswis

by Jennifer de la Cruz

oohoo, who’s doing a tequila shot with me?! It’s Sunday night, I’ve taught my last kiddies’ class for the weekend, and Jenn’s down to get cray-cray! These 20hour weeks are killing me and it’s time to really cut loo — oh, my god. Gross. Don’t look now, but that misogynistic old neocolonial is hitting on the waitress again. Jesus, I think I’m gonna be sick. Does he seriously not realise what a disgusting creep he is? Like some pretty young Vietnamese girl would ever be interested in talking to him if he wasn’t waving fistfuls of cash at her? You can practically smell the paternalistic privilege oozing out of his pores. Ugh. Disgusting. Speaking of pores, it’s like, “Hi, I’m face soap — have you

considered trying me?” I guess it’s hard to find time for personal hygiene when you’ve got women half your age to harass, but still. The blackheads on his bulbous red alcoholic’s nose are watermelon-seed size. Why is every old foreign man in Vietnam so physically repulsive? I just don’t understand why these horny troglodytes are allowed to have visas. What do they even contribute to Vietnamese society except empty beer bottles and unwanted pregnancies? They’re only here because they can’t get laid back in their own countries, where it takes more to attract women than a sleazy comb-over and a knockoff Rolex. What a loser. It’s people like him who are ruining this place.

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xcuse me Trang, could I have the check please? Right you are — promised the missus I’d take it easy tonight. I’ve got my motherin-law here for the week, so can’t be out too late, can I? Wait, hold on… are those a couple of young North Americans, scowling at me from the corner booth? Trang! Cancel that check! Bring me a bottle of Jägermeister and a pack of the cheapest, foulest cigarettes you have. This must be my lucky night — I love being judged by self-righteous English teachers! Nothing gives me more satisfaction than serving as the target of contempt, especially from total strangers half my age! It’s hard to explain, but I get this tingly feeling every time some 23-year-old loudly accuses me of sexually exploitative bourgeois parasitism. Where do they learn

all these delightful terms? I’ll admit that I don’t always understand the names they call me, but I do like the attention. When you’ve lived in Vietnam for as long as I have, you can start to feel invisible at times. It takes an unprovoked insult from someone who’s never done a real day’s work in her life to make you really feel alive again! It’s not always fun and games — it’s true that once in a while I get a bit resentful when a spoiled-rotten c*** drunkenly berates me for daring to speak to a younger Vietnamese woman in public. And yes, there was the incident with the lad in the sports pub on Bui Vien, and no, the little idiot did not press charges. But it’s all in good fun. Ah, English teachers... screw the lot of ‘em.

Expats. We’re the full range of odd bodies, all with different outlooks on life, all from different walks. So with Word being the nice people that we are, we decided to take different types of stereotypical YOUs and put them in different situations. What would happen? Well, they say opposites attract… sometimes!

At the Resort All Our Facebook Friends Are Going to Love These Blurry Pictures of the Buffet

where is All the Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp? by Craig Sudekeis

by Larry Cunningham

h boy, isn’t this beach resort just the greatest? I’m here with my wife, Sarah, and we couldn’t be happier with our stay so far. In fact, last evening when we were reading by the pool I said to her, “Hey honey, want to quit our jobs at the international school and stay here forever? We could teach ‘Introduction to Sandcastles’!” Hahaha! Like when we arrived — this beautiful woman in a colourful dress greeted us at the front door and said, in perfect English, “Welcome, sir and madam.” Well, let me tell you that Sarah and I were just blown away! We’d spent the whole week practicing Vietnamese with our maid back in Thao Dien (just in case we had to communicate with the maids at the resort), but it turns out

everybody who works here is practically fluent! And my gosh, the amenities! There were three different kinds of robes in the closet, plus special sandals for wearing in the shower. And on the table there were free bottles of water and this crazy pink-and-green fruit with spikes all over it. “I feel like one of those Kardashians,” Sarah said. She’s a hoot! But the real coup de grace came this morning when we walked downstairs for breakfast. I’ve never seen such a delicious spread! They had practically everything. I think Sarah took about a hundred pictures (women, right?). She’s probably uploading them to Facebook right now. Did I mention that the WiFi in the lobby is free? They thought of everything! A fellow could really get used to this VIP lifestyle.

isten up, because I’m only going to ask once: where the f*** is the bacon-wrapped shrimp? No, you calm down. I swear to Christ I’m going to pistol-whip the next person who suggests I try the sausage links instead. If I’m paying US$100 a night for a garden-view twin room, I expect some goddamn bacon wrapped around some goddamn shrimp. This entire trip has been a nightmare, if we’re being honest. First, my flight from Hanoi got delayed almost an hour because of an “incoming monsoon”… as if planes are incapable of flying in rain. I guess I shouldn’t have been surprised. After all, this is Vietnam. The words “on time” mean nothing here. But that was just an appetiser for the buffet of disappointment

to come. How the hell does this place pass itself off as a luxury resort? The beds are too rectangular and the pillows are too round. The satellite TV has too many Chinese channels. The pool is so full of urine and chlorine that if I had any hair left, it’d probably turn green. I would’ve been better off staying in one of those backpacker slum-hostels where the young people fornicate in the hallways and smear feces all over the bathrooms. At a place like that, maybe a shortage of premium buffet items would be considered acceptable. But five-star resorts are supposed to have higher standards. When I get back home, I’m writing the manager the angriest electronic mail letter he’s ever read. This is worse than the Holocaust.

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Navigating the Roads

I'm Going to Clothesline the Next Person Who Crosses Into My Lane

The Roads of Vietnam are Flowing with Harmonious Spontaneity

by Roger “Rodge” Whitby

by Celeste Ryvre

hen it’s early in the day like this, I’m really at my most calm and rational. The roosters are crowing, the EDM has just come on at the café next door and I remember why I love this place so much. That’s why I can tell you, with cool rationality, that I’m going to clothesline the next m*********** who comes into my lane. I’ve thought this over enough times, and yeah, I’ve gotten emotional about it. But I gotta believe that there’s a reason for the throttle being on the right side of my bike — in case the world ever devolved into a Mad Max-style hellscape, the good folks at Yamaha wanted to

make sure the fist with the most bulky rings on it has a good swinging radius. But I’m not talking about punching anyone. That’s crazy. I’m just gonna stick out my fist at a 30-degree angle, and if anyone gets in the way, that’s on them. I’m just increasing the amount of room I take up in my lane, the same as if I had a falcon perched on my elbow. And if that falcon pecked out the eye of someone driving the wrong way, that wouldn’t be my fault, would it? Great, now I’m super worked up. I guess I’ll just avoid all those goddamn a***holes crowding my lane. They’ll die soon anyway.

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lthough my nomadic life-path has only recently led me to the enchanting land of Vietnam, I already feel a deep connection to the local people and culture. Nowhere do I sense this more strongly than on the road, where my xe om driver effortlessly blends his spirit with those of our fellow travellers, beeping cheerful greetings to them at two-second intervals. As an awakened star-child of the cosmos, my heart bursts with love at moments like these. So why does everyone else look so angry? I feel so sorry for these poor unenlightened people who cannot appreciate the chaotic beauty of roundabouts in the afternoon rush hour. Just look at the swirling mass of humanity, moving in perfect concert with each other, each driver following his or her own Personal Destiny. It’s truly inspiring and surprisingly safe. I’ve been

living here nearly three weeks and I’ve never seen an accident, except for the time my xe om driver drunkenly T-boned a Mai Linh minivan. My broken wrist will eventually heal, but the memories will last forever. In the West, life is constricted by societal pressures to conform. If you tried to drive your Toyota SUV at breakneck speeds directly into oncoming traffic, flicking your highbeams and honking wildly, you’d probably be arrested. People aren’t free to pursue their hopes and dreams (especially if those dreams involve zooming down sidewalks to avoid red lights). It’s quite fascist, if you think about it. Here in Vietnam, though, those rules don’t apply. And if people stopped for a minute to appreciate the differences, instead of condemning them, their chi would be so much lighter. Namaste, my loves.

The School Play

My Daughter's Play is the Perfect Place to Test My New Camera Lens

You're Blocking My View, You Fat Idiot by Natalya Rudetsky

by Chester P. Walters

f all days to be running late! Today, the day of my daughter’s school play! And I promised her I would try to be early. Try! But that’s how it seems to go. Just as you’re about to leave the office, all hell breaks lose. That’s what happens when you work with creatives. I’ve also got a little surprise for my daughter — I bought a new lens yesterday. Now I can get close-up photos of her on stage. She’ll be so much happier, and my wife can then show everything off on Facebook. Okay, so now I’ve just made the show in time, but there are no seats anywhere, only right up at the back. Okay, I’ll make a beeline for the front and kneel. That way I’ll be able to get some good shots. There are already a couple of other people up there taking photos. Should be fine. Right, ready. I’m just in front of the front row. Okay, so my daughter’s not on for a couple of scenes yet, but I need to test out this lens. First scene — oh, it’s

the five and six-year-olds. Need to get the lighting, shutter speed and ISO right. Here goes. Ow! What was that? Did someone kick me? I look round but the woman behind me has her eye focused on her camera and the woman next to her is using a video camera. Hmmm. Okay, more shots. Ow! Again. Did she really just tell me to piss off? Did I hear correctly. I am astonished. No, more than astonished. I’m… I don’t even really know. Okay, so obviously I’m in her way. But, we’re at a school. In a school. You don’t talk like that in a school. I turn around to say something to her, but as I do I catch her eyes — they glare with this strange madness. Forget it. I didn’t come here for an argument. I came here to see my daughter perform in a play. Now’s not the time for a shouting match. I move about a metre to my right. Better to be out of this women’s way than in it. She’s obviously mad!

got here first. Me. First. Here. I made sure of it after what happened last time when little Barbs was in her school play. She was so upset when she saw my photos from halfway back in the room that she cried for two days. I had to take her shopping in Bangkok for the weekend to make up for it. So, yes, I got here first. I came prepared. And I’m in the front row. I’ve not just got my camera this time, but my video camera, too. And Ngoc (our maid) is here with me, to use the video camera. She said she didn’t know how to use it. Silly woman. It’s not her fault that she’s got no education. So we practiced at home after she’d done the ironing. Now she’s practically an expert and for this school performance, we’re gonna get double footage of little Barbs. Well, at least we would have if it hadn’t been for that fat, bearded idiot who’s knelt right in front of me. Who the hell does he think he is? Yes, I know the school kids are kneeling in front of me. But they’re small. And

this guy, with his swanky camera, what’s he trying to do? I got here first! Me! Oh, the show’s starting. I can’t wait to see Babs in that lacy pink dress of hers — she’s playing Little Bo Peep, you know. How cute! Hey, fat man, get out of my way! He’s kneeling up now, trying to take photos. He’s blocking my view. My body is starting to contort in anger. I can feel it in my veins. I want to scream and shout. Babs is on stage and he’s in my way. I kick him. He looks round in shock, but I’ve got my eye looking through my camera. He’s confused. He starts kneeling up again. Right, I’m going to kill him. Bang. Another kick. “Piss off,” I hiss. He looks at me, scared as hell. What a weasel. Now he moves to the side a bit and is straight out of my way. Oh, Babs. What a wonderful move! She’s going to so love the little film show we’re putting together of her. It’s gonna be so cute!

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insider ART

HCMC

Theatre for the People Dragonfly Theatre Company refuse to let up with their regular output of theatre to the Saigon public. In the first of a series of articles, Jon Aspin heads to the auditions for their latest offering, An Evening with Tennessee Williams. Photos by Glen Riley

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homas Lanier Williams III is not a name most people would be familiar with. But that’s only because most people don’t live and breathe theatre like the team at Dragonfly Theatre Company do. ‘Thomas L.’ is actually Tennessee, the iconic American playwright responsible for the Pulitzer prize-winning plays Cat on a Hot Tin Roof (1955) and A Street Car Named Desire (1948) — which famously launched the career of acting legend Marlon Brando. Considered by many to be a titan of the medium, it’s an opinion shared by Dragonfly actor and director Ryan Burkwood. He says he can’t imagine a time when William’s plays won’t be performed, and compares him to that other great scribe with a William in his name. “Tennessee’s work has been consistently performed since he put pen to paper, and that says something,” he explains. “When you look at Shakespeare, his plays have been performed for the last five or six hundred years, and I can see Tennessee Williams being the same.” High praise indeed, which might explain why Dragonfly are back, putting on a theatredinner night featuring his work this June. The production has been dubbed An Evening with Tennessee Williams. “The common value that you have at the core of both of [these playwrights], is that they get to the centre of something about being human,” Ryan says. “Tennessee Williams’ characters are always so real, so rounded, but the stories that he tells are never black-and-white.” Choosing five one-act plays that ‘bookend’ Williams’ writing career, from the very beginning to his dark, dark end — Williams committed suicide in a hotel room in New York in 1983 — some of these plays have not been performed that often around the world, and definitely not in Vietnam. “I think there’s something important in doing shows that haven’t been done before,” says Ryan, “especially if it’s by someone so important. It adds an insight and a depth to

the understanding of their other work.” In June, for example, the team will perform Williams’ examination of a scorned woman’s descent into hysteria — Interior: Panic. Written in 1945, it is said to be the precursor of A Streetcar Named Desire.

The Audition Invited to take a fly-on-the-wall look at auditions for the forthcoming show, I was curious about this actors’ world I’d flirted with in the past. Would the trained professionals laugh at my barely-there acting chops? Would I have to ‘camp it up’ in order to fit in? And should I have worn the brown tights I was forced to wear in the primary school play all those years ago, when I gave a stirring rendition of a tree? The answer — a resounding no, not at all. This was a night for callbacks, so I wouldn’t be called upon to break a leg. Putting it all out there, though, were hopefuls Leon, Mark and JK, all from different backgrounds and all with different levels of experience. They were there to be put through their paces by the team of directors — Aaron Toronto and Ryan — during a reading of Williams’ The Chalky White Substance, which explores the themes of paranoia and betrayal in a post-apocalyptic world. Leon Bown, an EAL Teacher at an international school here was a returnee, having already acted for Dragonfly once as Pozzo in their recent production of Waiting for Godot. He admitted that being in that has definitely bitten him with the acting bug… again. A Liverpool native, he also dispelled my disconnect between his distinctive Scouse accent and the world of acting. “It’s funny because it isn’t actually a big leap, there’s a very good pedigree of exceptionally good actors from Liverpool and the Merseyside region,” he reasoned. “Theatre is very much something that’s in the blood of Scousers — we’re all showmen!” Describing his experience playing Pozzo as a great opportunity to “strut around the stage shouting at people and be overbearing”, Leon hopes to be back at it again very soon.

The Company On a Saigon mission to change stuffy misconceptions about the art form, the Dragonfly team are a bunch of passionate creatives dedicated to raising the standard of theatre in the city. Actor / producer Belinda Smith has been here since 2005, when she says she couldn’t go to see a decent film in the cinema let alone go see a piece of theatre. “We actually want to build a theatre scene in Saigon,” she says. “There’s a big gap in the culture and if we want to move Saigon into the next millennium, theatre has to be part of that.” Based on the growth they’ve seen in attendances at their last three shows, they strongly believe there is a hunger for it. It all nearly ended, though, when in early 2013 Belinda and founding member Aaron had what she described as a ‘break up’ of sorts — not a romantic one, but still no more Dragonfly. It was all a bit too much, it wasn’t quite working, life was taking over. The same applied to Ryan, who came to Vietnam fed up with the industry in his native London. He was ready to quit. A chance meeting with Aaron on the set of L’Oriana, an Italian telemovie shot last year in Vietnam, got them talking. Before long they were putting on a show, Blue / Orange, starring another of their fellow L’Oriana cast members, Peter Muruako. Since then they’ve put on two more productions and the ambition to do more is strong. “It’s definitely given me back my passion,” says Ryan. Belinda agrees. “That’s what Dragonfly does!” An Evening with Tennessee Williams will show at Cargo Bar in early June. Prior to that Dragonfly will be bringing in a performance of Gruesome Playground Injuries on Apr. 22, 23 and 25. For more information on Dragonfly, email dragonflyvietnam@gmail.com or click on facebook.com/dragonflyvietnam

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AL NATION

r a c t e e r t A S ed Uber Nam R INSIDE

oi in Han n d e h c er laun , David Man b U p p ring a Saigon ie Vola a n h i s n e ow ul rid ched d Photos by J s after u h o t t n t o i . Four m onths after r the verdict m a e ne ets to h and ni e r t s e hit th

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“The idea of dodgy meters is virtually nonexistent with Uber. And by virtually, we mean payments are done online, with Uber calculating the cost of the fare by the service it offers, the journey time and sometimes the distance travelled”

So, What is Uber? For those who don’t yet know, Uber is a crowdsourced ride-sharing service that is currently taking the world by storm. Commuters download the service’s smartphone app, register their details, and then lodge a request for a car. That request is then forwarded to the nearest available driver who then makes the pick-up. The app also specifies the car’s license plate, provides a photo of the driver and allows you to track the car on your phone using GPS to avoid any mishaps. Most importantly, the idea of dodgy meters is virtually non-existent with Uber. And by virtually, we mean payments are done online, with Uber calculating the cost of the fare by the service it offers, the journey time and sometimes the distance travelled. However, fares are also dictated by supply and demand, and Uber has faced strong criticism for increasing its prices when demand is higher; most recently during the Sydney Siege in late 2014 when the higher demand created by the terrorism incident caused fares to skyrocket. Uber has also attracted considerable controversy in many of its markets that have tried to slam the door on the eager upstart. It’s actually banned in a number of cities, but with its value sitting at around US$41.2 billion, Uber has plenty of capital to lobby governments while commuters continue to demand its services. Although the Vietnamese authorities initially declared its operation here illegal, they have since made public statements indicating their eagerness to embrace the e-commerce service provider.

Uber in Vietnam

ietnam’s taxi industry is a jungle, and foreigners and locals alike can recall stories about being fleeced by drivers with dodgy fares. For me, it happened late one night and it was only after I was halfway home that I realised, in my mojito-induced haze, that the taxi’s meter was ticking over faster than my wristwatch. Luckily, being six-foot-tall, I was well placed to renegotiate the exorbitant fare. But there are plenty of stories, particularly from unsuspecting tourists, that have not ended so nicely. Over another mojito one night I was told of how a pair of honeymooning Aussies, who had never been overseas before, got into a taxi at Noi Bai airport only for the driver to stop three times on the way into the city to demand

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increasingly exorbitant fees — US$50 first, then another US$80, and finally US$100. After this sort of welcome, the couple refused to leave their hotel and booked an early flight home. In response, local authorities in Hanoi have set up hotlines for violated customers to lodge complaints. There has also been a widespread crackdown on ‘fake’ taxis claiming to be part of non-existent taxi collectives. Some of this has worked. Some of it hasn’t. Such dramatic stories are, of course, the exception. But the arrival of Uber has offered people in Vietnam a different option. A safer, cheaper and more reliable option, backed by a multi-billion-dollar enterprise with a militant philosophy on customer service.

As is often the case with the Vietnamese market, Uber’s entry into Vietnam has been regarded with a mix of suspicion and intrigue. Uber’s Hanoi-based general manager, Dzung Dang, says that the app has been popular with consumers at both ends of the market: both those who are price-conscious and those who crave the experience of luxury and status. “We’ve had an incredible response from customers in Hanoi,” Dzung says. Consumers in Hanoi tend to be more prudent than their Ho Chi Minh City counterparts, but also place a high premium on luxury experiences, he explains. Dzung also says that there are a high proportion of underutilised cars in Hanoi, which makes it a promising market for Uber. “A lot of wealthy people own cars but those cars aren’t being used at all times during the day. Uber helps drivers and owners earn extra income by tapping into underutilised capital.” Vietnam’s commercial hub Ho Chi Minh City has been a boon for the Silicon Valleybased company, with most of the company’s drivers based in the southern city. As has been the case in other markets, Uber has had a transformative impact on the way Saigonese commute on a daily basis.

Daniel, who manages a bar in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 1, says that the high level of convenience and competitive pricing of fares (Uber’s base fare is VND5,000 plus VND800 per minute and VND9,597 per kilometre) has encouraged him to use Uber every day to get to and from work. “There’s no dicing with the fare and there is a big supply of cars that make it pretty easy to get around,” he says. “The ease of using the app and the reliability of the rating system is also a big incentive for most people. I use it way more than I’d use a taxi.”

Let the Rivalry Begin That’s not to say that Uber ’s entry into Vietnam hasn’t been difficult. They’ve faced fierce competition from two major taxi apps: GrabTaxi and EasyTaxi. Some Hanoian customers also argue that Uber ’s supply of cars is too limited to offer round-the-clock convenience like it does in Ho Chi Minh City. This has allowed GrabTaxi, which entered Vietnam at the beginning of last year and secured an early mover advantage by signing up hundreds of cars to the app, to remain a popular alternative. Uber’s real competition, however, are the taxi companies. Unlike Ho Chi Minh City, where there are only two main taxi providers, Hanoi is home to a plethora of taxi companies all vying for a slice of the transport market. This fierce rivalry for market share led to difficulties for Mai Linh Taxi, which in 2012 was reported to have sold off around 1,000 cabs in order to raise capital and stave off bankruptcy. Hanoi’s taxi lobbyists have also waged a fierce war on the app, decrying the lack of regulation as a threat to public safety, pointing to alleged incidents of assault by drivers in India and Australia. But taxi companies have also complained that Uber’s call-ondemand functionality has undercut existing business dealings major taxi companies have with Hanoi’s largest buildings, malls and apartment complexes that afford them exclusive service rights. Dzung says this fragmented allocation of market share has made it easier for the app to break into the market and begin winning over customers, with the help of strong word-of-mouth and savvy pull-marketing campaigns. “We don’t employ any push-marketing measures — only pull,” he says. “For Valentine’s Day we had Uber cars driving around Hanoi with huge teddy bears on the roof. We also had a campaign where we teamed up with the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf to deliver people’s coffees using Uber cars.” Such efforts seem to be paying off for Uber, which has captured the imagination of Vietnam’s young, urban classes. Linh, a public relations executive based in Hanoi is a devoted convert. “I love getting picked up in nice cars,” she explains. “And for the same price of

being crammed into a tiny Kia Morningside taxi, I can get a clean Toyota Camry with leather seats and a very polite, professional driver. It’s a far less stressful experience and I don’t have to worry about having cash.” Nick, a Ho Chi Minh City-based writer, agrees. “I’ve used Uber on a weekly basis for the past six months, and it’s been great,” he tells me one night over drinks. “The cars are cleaner and nicer, and for the most part the drivers are much, much less cavetrollish than typical Saigon cabbies. I’d say about 90 percent of my trips have been five stars, with one notable exception.”

The Verdict As is often the case with new ventures, there are of course scenarios when Uber hasn’t worked perfectly.

Nick recalls his traumatic experience of trying to get an Uber one night after his appendix burst. “I called an Uber to take me to the clinic. The guy called my phone again and again, screaming for directions instead of looking at his GPS. Then he pretended he didn’t know where Bitexco Tower was and drove around for 10 extra minutes.” However, when Nick was prompted for a trip review on the app, he entered the complaint and was refunded the entire fare the next day. His driver was also disciplined, an occurrence Nick says would be “almost unimaginable” with a regular Vietnamese taxi company. “Uber might have its flaws, but it’s still a thousand space-miles beyond the competition.”

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insider

Le Quang Haâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s studio courtyard

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ART

HANOI

Has Hanoi’s Art Scene Lost its Edge? Whereas five years ago Hanoi’s emerging art scene was gaining widespread praise, now it seems to have come to a standstill — or has it? Words by David Mann. Photos by Julia Vola

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Nguyen The Sonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s studio

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Le Quang Ha’s studio

“The source of the problem, says Ha, is a strict adherence to classical art norms that are being taught in Hanoi’s art schools”

reach the end of Dang Thai Mai and look around. The only thing nearby is a peeling yellow wall snaking its way along the lake. I check my phone again — the blinking blue dot tells me I’m in the right place. I silently curse Google Maps for failing again to navigate me through Hanoi’s streets. I’m definitely lost. Then, a shiny black four-wheel drive tears around the corner and hurtles towards me. At the last second, it hangs a left, mounting the curve and stopping at the mouth of a secret driveway I didn’t notice before. The door opens and the face of eccentric Hanoi artist Le Quang Ha beckons me to follow him on my motorbike. I follow suit and we disappear off the street. “Welcome,” he says, as he unlocks a wrought iron gate and gestures me into his secret studio, aptly named the KAMIKAZE Factory. This is after all the place where Ha gives birth to garish contemporary art viewed by some as an outburst within Vietnam’s conservative landscape. But it’s exactly this controversial side to Ha’s work, which often blurs modern and traditional lines and delivers stinging social commentary, which has made it significant.

It’s also the reason why I’ve come to visit: I’m on the hunt for Hanoi’s next generation of avant-garde artists.

Losing its Lustre Ha is one of many older artists who are adamant that Hanoi’s contemporary art scene is reaching a standstill. The source of the problem, he says, is the strict adherence to classical art norms being taught in Hanoi’s art schools. “They just learn techniques, methods, classicism,” says the 52-year-old, pouring condensed milk into a cup of piping hot ca phe Viet Nam. “There’s no focus on how to conceptualise or analyse art — and that’s having a big effect on artists today.” Ha isn’t the only one who believes Hanoi’s institutional approach to teaching art is missing the mark. Nha San Gallery manager Le Tuan Uyen agrees, saying that Hanoi’s younger generation of artists are struggling to push the envelope and regain the golden era of Vietnam’s Gang of Five, a group of five Hanoian artists — Hong Viet Dung, Ha Tri Hieu, Dang Xuan Hoa, Tran Luong and Pham Quang Vinh — who rose to international fame in the 1990s for their

neo-classical expressionist work. Artists like Le Quang Ha soon followed suit, along with fellow iconoclasts Tran Trong Vu, Hoang Hong Cam, Nguyen Than and Bui Minh Dung. These artists are credited with laying the foundation for Vietnam’s alternative art movement. “There are plenty of young artists in Hanoi right now who are adept at technique, but not that many that are creating things that are really capturing the attention of global collectors,” says Uyen. “There is such an oversupply of commercial art in the market right now, as a result of the mass consumption of conventional art." That oversupply that Uyen is referring to can be readily seen in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. A stroll along Hang Bong, lined with dozens of low-end and upscale galleries, is a steady show of recurring themes: rice fields, willowy maidens in ao dai, old French buildings. Even copies of famous Hanoian and international paintings can be purchased from as low as US$50 (VND1.05 million). Says Uyen: “Like artists all over the world, many adopt a learn-by-copying approach, rather than experimenting with old conventions and subject matters.”

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Top left: Le Quang Ha’s studio; Top right and bottom: Trieu Minh Hai’s studio

According to Suzanne Lecht, who manages Art Gallery Vietnam in Hanoi’s bustling Old Quarter, until contemporary art becomes a status symbol in Vietnam, the incentive for artists to push the boundaries will remain limited. “I think there is definitely a lack of a local collectors’ base in Hanoi, and that means less incentives for artists,” says Lecht, who has been deeply involved in Vietnam’s art scene for two decades. She says that until Hanoi’s nouveau riche develop an interest in contemporary art, many of the city’s best artists will gravitate towards other places with a stronger presence of art-conscious collectors, such as in Ho Chi Minh City and the wealthier parts of Asia. “There is definitely a lack of appreciation for controversial, contemporary art among Hanoian collectors,” she says. “They want something that’s pretty, that’s easy to look at. That has an effect on what artists produce.”

A Brighter Tomorrow None of this is to say that we should be pessimistic about the future of Hanoi’s art scene. As Nha San’s Le Tuan Nguyen suggests, overseas art exchange programmes and artist-in-residence initiatives are helping local artists expand their horizons. “A lot of young artists return with an exposure to the international art scene that challenges the classical conventions that are taught here,” she says, adding that many come back to Hanoi with a broader understanding of experimental art and are sharing those skills with other artists. “Contemporary art workshops held by returning artists and art graduates are helping to transform the understanding of local artists about contemporary art. They’re also helping them become more analytical in their approach.” However, artists without direct access to overseas contemporary art are finding other ways to keep themselves informed. For artists like Hanoi University of Industrial Fine Arts graduate Trieu Minh Hai — one of six contemporary fine artists recently featured in Hanoi Grapevine’s Selections Volume 2 — the internet has had a transformative impact on local artists,

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connecting them with the international contemporary art scene. “The internet has been an amazing tool for artists in Vietnam, and particularly graduates in Hanoi where the art scene is less international than in Saigon,” says Hai, who trains under the tutelage of Le Quang Ha. “It’s a great way to learn about what’s happening overseas.” Online sharing platforms such as YouTube and Facebook have also allowed emerging Hanoian artists to keep up with cutting edge artists, who are increasingly archiving their work online. This rise in self-directed online learning has also spurred interest in alternative art forms, according to Hanoi University of Fine Arts professor and contemporary artist Nguyen The Son. “There’s been a dramatic increase in artists showing interest in installation, performance and video art forms,” says Nguyen, showing me a video of his recent hyperrealist installation of urban slums in Ho Chi Minh City. “Young artists are curious about playing with mediums like photography and video to produce new art forms." More organisations than ever before are dedicated to teaching young artists about experimental art forms, he says. DocLab, an incubator of experimental film and video art, is one such organisation. Set up by the Goethe-Institut in 2009, it devotes itself to cultivating “a new generation of Vietnamese independent filmmakers and media artists”. According to the centre’s website, it also houses an archive of experimental films and film art theory books, as well as supplying production equipment to students and visiting artists. As for Le Quang Ha, he thinks that it will take time for Hanoi’s emerging artists to get comfortable with pushing the envelope. While he is frustrated with the lack of artistic freedoms, he remains optimistic. “Art cannot be suppressed, and the younger emerging generation know this. They’re opening their eyes and really trying to push the boundaries in the hopes of creating new kinds of art. Things are changing slowly, we just have to be patient.”

Nguyen The Son

Trieu Minh Hai’s studio Le Quang Ha

“The internet has been an amazing tool for artists in Vietnam, and particularly graduates in Hanoi where the art scene is less international than in Saigon. It’s a great way to learn about what’s happening overseas” Trieu Minh Hai

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Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Aummee A vegetarian restaurant that avoids the temptation to serve up faux meat? Our mystery diner gives Aummee the onceover, and returns for more. Photos by Julie Vola

his is a confession. For April’s Mystery Diner I ate at the vegetarian restaurant, Aummee, twice. What can I say? The experience was so pleasant (and the menu so large), that I felt a one-time visit could not possibly do it justice. Exceptionally clean with a tasteful decor of lightly polished wood in decorative patterns and just-right lighting, Aummee offers diners a relaxed atmosphere in which to enjoy a peaceful lunch or dinner. Housed in a cheerful yellow building on the cute street of Chau Long in Hanoi’s Truc Bach area, diners are welcomed by the restaurant’s bubbling fountain and feature wall of bright green plants by the entrance. At the time of dining, a large Tet tree filled with bright yellow blossoms (matching the restaurant’s colour scheme) was taking up a large corner of the room. Bright red and gold envelopes dangled from its branches.

No Mock Meat Here, Thank You Very Much Some may say that as a vegetarian I am

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naturally biased towards restaurants specialising in vegetarian fare. While it’s true that I get pleasure out of opening a menu and finding I can order anything and everything, I would argue, however, that this only makes my standards higher. Mock meat, not only a staple but too often the bulk of menus in many vegetarian restaurants in Vietnam, is a food group I generally try to avoid. So upon opening Aummee’s extensive menu and discovering not a trace of that strange, fleshy soy stuff, I was thrilled. On my first visit, dinner with friends, we ordered more food than we knew what to do with. But in the end, we had no trouble devouring the fresh and tasty dishes. The meal started with appetisers of fried wontons (goi thuong) — enjoyable with a somewhat strange filling of jicama and cheese; lightly fried mushroom-filled triangles (trang khuyet) — delicious and beautifully presented; and a marine fungus salad (vi bien). Despite the strange name, the salad was definitely a highlight and the mildly flavoured seaweed (or marine

fungus) added a pleasant texture and subtle flavour to the otherwise traditional Vietnamese green papaya-style salad. Our mains consisted of two clay pot dishes — potato (ngoc thach) and eggplant (sac tim). As one of the hardest vegetables to cook properly, eggplant dishes inevitably end up either salty and soggy or tasteless and rubbery. The chefs at Aummee, however, cooked it to perfection. Accompanying the clay pots, we shared pad thai (mien xa) — a successful union of Vietnamese-style noodles and the famous Thai recipe. We also had a portion of Aummee’s ‘special rice’ — the shiitake mushroom with hints of ginger, lemongrass and dried seaweed adding flavour, nutrients and texture to the Thai jasmine rice.

Take Two Returning a month later for a casual lunch with a friend, I was once again greeted warmly by the staff, who remained unfailingly polite and attentive throughout the meal. Popular with local professionals, the restaurant was noticeably livelier during my second visit.

THE VERDICT

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12.5 SERVICE

12 DÉCOR

With only the two of us I was (unfortunately) more restricted on what I could order, but still made full use of the wide-ranging menu, withstanding the temptation to order all the same dishes again — except for the Aummee rice, which I couldn’t resist. We started with a plate of beautifully presented taro spring rolls (nem Aummee) and waky pumpkin salad (duyen que). I’m still a little unsure exactly what waky pumpkin is, but it was delicious nonetheless. For mains, we split a very satisfying Thaistyle red curry (ca ray do). We licked our plates clean. In celebration of the New Year, our waiter invited us to take a red envelope dangling from the Tet tree. Choosing one with pretty gold blossoms I opened my lucky envelope to find a member’s card — 10 percent off all future bills. Guess I’ll be (very happily) seeing you again soon, Aummee. Nha Hang Chay Aummee is located at 26 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Prices range from VND50,000 for entrees to VND80,000 for mains

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food & drink STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Bo Bit Tet Hoe Nhai Steak, it’s just one of those dishes that entraps the human palate. For a taste of the Vietnamese version of the real deal, Huyen Tran heads to Hoe Nhai Street. Photos by Julie Vola

henever we go to a new place, either to travel or to live, it is exciting to discover the local mysteries: how local people enjoy life, what they eat and where they go for fun. But sometimes you have a pang and find yourself searching for restaurants where you can indulge in the taste of home. A suggestion for this situation is to step out of your comfort zone, and try the Vietnamese version of western dishes. It could be an exciting experience, and sometimes, you will find a “perfect marriage” between the western-originated food and local ingredients — which typically

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include Vietnamese fish sauce. An example is bo bit tet, or Vietnamesestyle beefsteak. This is not the beefsteak that is served in classy western restaurants with polished glass windows, it is the local bo bit tet that is served in streetside eateries with tiny plastic stools, crowded with local diners. This is the version that will offer you a fresh look at how a beefsteak is prepared. The Vietnamese adaptation of steak is the one that includes thin beefsteak, crispy fries, omelette, pork meatballs and paté — all served sizzling on a hot plate. Beefsteak is eaten with traditional Vietnamese banh my, not a western baguette. Here, the beef is not the king. It is also neither rare nor

medium-rare, but cooked and swimming in sauce. Why it is called bo bit tet? Bo in Vietnamese means beef, while bit tet is an “imported” word which does not originate from Vietnamese. As beefsteak is not a Vietnamese dish, local people call it by its French name, pronounced in a Vietnamese way. That’s why bit tet is pronounced in the same way as the French word biftek, but without the “f” in the middle or the “k” on the end. In recent years, this western-originated dish has become a favourite with locals, and also a “can’t miss” on the list of recommendations for foreigners who live in Hanoi.

Where to Go Tasty bo bit tet can be found at the famous streetside eateries Banh My Ngoc Hieu, on Hoa Ma, or on Hang Buom and Hang Giay. But beating all of the above is the tiny street of Hoe Nhai — here almost the whole thoroughfare sells bo bit tet. At first, Hoe Nhai only had two beefsteak eateries. But now, the street has become well-known — locally it is called “beefsteak street”. For expats, the street offers a complete experience, both visually and taste-wise. There are a series of streetside joints here that look almost the same, all with young boys standing outside, trying to wave you in. But my recommendation is to go to Bit

Tet Ngon So 5. The presentation of the dish is quite similar throughout Hoe Nhai. However, the taste is slightly different — some eateries add onions and tomatoes while others don’t. Bit Tet Ngon So 5 is said to serve up the most delicious beef and sauce. “We do not remember exactly when the street started to be filled with bo bit tet eateries like it is now,” the shop owner says. “But the majority of us weren’t cooking in western restaurants and hotels. “My brother, who is our main chef, used to own his own pho shop, and cooked Vietnamese food his whole life. He learnt how to cook bo bit tet from a friend, then

adjusted the seasonings so that it matches the local taste.” During lunchtime, you will see Hoe Nhai become bustling with diners, which is a total contrast to the peace of the small street in the morning. Together with other “branded” streets — like Bat Dan for pho, Ngu Xa for pho cuon and Phung Hung for hot pot — Hoe Nhai has become the main street for this western dish, shining in its own way as a local essential. Bo bit tet is costs around VND70,000 per diner. Bit Tet Ngon So 5 is at 20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. It’s the only joint in the street that offers free banh my and fries, as well as free Wi-Fi. The eatery opens from early morning till late at night

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Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

The High Life From up on high sits Sorae, a Japanese-themed restaurant, bar and cigar lounge that oozes class and style. Our undercover reporter gives their verdict. Photos by Glen Riley

hundred metres down, the city lights glow orange. I watch red-and-white streaks of traffic, smelling hints of charcoal and seared meat, a sip of 15-year-old Dalwhinnie smouldering in my mouth. Gazing over the breadth of District 1, I reflect upon the three prerequisites of the restaurant business: location, location, location. Hot new sushi bar / high-class watering hole Sorae, high up in the AB Building, has location and then some, boasting spectacular panoramic views of the city. Sorae radiates welcoming luxury throughout. Smiling hostesses whisk you into the dedicated elevator; 23 floors whoosh by in smooth silence to an oasis high above hectic downtown Ho Chi Minh City. Upstairs, a young man rolls a Cuban next to a discreet sign explaining cigars; along with its boast-worthy collection of singlemalt Scotches, an impressive part of Sorae’s top-end vibe. Sipping my Scotch, I await my date, stress vanishing as I pore over dozens of kinds

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of expensive liquor, centred on sake and whisky. Sorae’s atmosphere resembles oldfashioned clubs, funk and jazz booming out of the sound system, chicly-attired waiters making sure your tea is topped up, offering more towels, another drink, another round of sushi. My date arrives, and carved stones holding pill-sized shrunken towels and tiny wells to soak them in are set down before us. They’re a novelty, a fun touch emblematic of the pains taken throughout the restaurant.

The Best of East and West We start with locally-sourced sushi; as tempting as the varieties of Japanese fish look, they’re too rich for my budget. The tekka maki (VND75,000) is good, but with too much wasabi. The chawanmushi (VND75,000) is lighter than air, laced with mushroom and fish. From the specials menu, we order the hotate foie gras roll (VND185,000) served with slices of miso-marinated pate lavishly piled atop the delicate, enchanting, silken scallops. Paired with wagyu ninniku shoyu

(VND395,000), they showcase Japanese interpretations of Europe’s hautest foods. Marbled with threads of fat, the tender leaves of beef linger in the mouth. The star of the night is the sashimi salad (VND250,000), a garden of lightly-dressed lettuce, jewelled with salmon, yellow-tail tuna, octopus and more. Fresh, crisp in every bite, the salad masterfully weds different cuisines. The omakase 10-piece skewer (VND480,000) comes last, a platter of grilled, well, everything: shiitake, salmon, wagyu beef, chicken, pork belly, tofu, and more. Savouring every succulent bite, the volume of food defeats us and we get a box — thankfully, I love leftovers for breakfast. For dessert, we choose mango anmitsu (VND160,000), matcha and ginger-vanilla ice cream over cubed agar and mango, with a pot of startlingly sweet black honey. My sole wish is less agar, more mango.

99 Bottles of Sake on the Wall Decorated in a simple, modernised Japanese style — complete with rock

THE VERDICT

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SERVICE

14 DÉCOR

garden, bamboo stands and bonsai — Sorae is deliberately gorgeous without being pretentious. The massive bamboo bar-shelves display ranks of illustrated sake bottles. The gracefully sturdy furniture and carefully chosen objets d’art are as harmonious as the view from the floor-to-ceiling windows. We linger over our tea, appreciating our sojourn amid the finer things. We descend to the real world in sated silence, happily buzzing from food, liquor, the rarified atmosphere, the beautiful view. Sorae is not light on the wallet, but well worth trying. It’s a fantastic destination for birthdays, anniversaries, engagements, baby showers, Valentine’s Day: occasions when price isn’t a consideration. Even on ordinary occasions, Sorae’s opulent atmosphere and beautiful decor offer a great spot to stop, sit, sip on hot sake, and let the world spin on without you for a few timeless hours. Sorae is open from 11.30am to 2pm and 5.30pm to 2am, and is located in the AB Building, Floors 24 and 25, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City

Food & drink

STREET SNACKER

HCMC

The Best Banh Mi in Saigon Simon Stanley eats his way through the city’s top banh mi joints... and chooses the best. Let the crumbs fall where they may. Photos by Francis Xavier

love history you can pick up and eat. Vietnam’s banh mi can trace its roots back to the days of French colonial rule, when the humble baguette was given a lighter, fluffier personality,

and traditional French ingredients like pate and mayonnaise were added to chilli, coriander, grilled pork and pickled vegetables. Today, banh mi thit is available everywhere from five-star

buffets to the tail-end of a Honda Cub in an alleyway. It’s possibly the most readily available on-the-go meal you’re likely to find. But whose version is the best?

coriander and a gentle kick of chilli, but at VND25,000, the effect is rather mediocre

given its higher than average price tag. There’s better out there.

Banh Mi Sau Minh 170 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Open 24 hours Score: 7/10 From the front of a traditional bodega style grocery store, Sau Minh has been churning out Saigonese hoagies since 1976. Whipping along the row of ingredients, my bread roll is generously stuffed, wrapped and handed over. The pate is thick and rich, almost the consistency of corned beef, yet the sliced pork is a little on the fatty side. Despite its age and reputation, as the telling sprinkling of crumbs gathers at my feet, I’m a little underwhelmed. There’s plenty of everything packed in there, but somehow it’s lacking flavour. There’s a little

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Banh Mi Huynh Hoa

Nhu Lan Bakery

26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 3.30pm to midnight Score: 7.5/10

50 Ham Nghi, Q1 5am to midnight Score: 8/10

Frequently lauded as Saigon’s best, the never-ending queue of tourists and locals here is no surprise. At VND32,000 it’s the priciest so far… and the heaviest. Why? Meat. Lots of meat. Where most other vendors offer a careful balance of ingredients, Huynh Hoa are hitting you with six styles of pork in six hefty layers, plus pate and pork floss. I can see the appeal of this one, but it feels a little too heavy handed. The subtle flavour combinations are lost in the almost gluttonous serving of meat. With the coriander bullied into obscurity and the veg sitting like a token gesture on top, it’s not my idea of perfection. Quantity over quality.

No search would be complete without mention of this 47-year-old institution. Priding itself on a wide variety of homemade delicatessen products, it’s slightly disappointing to find that most banh mi here are pre-made and pre-wrapped. I ask for their standard banh mi kep thit with less chilli and they knock up a fresh one. Costing VND20,000, I almost want to be disappointed, but it’s surprisingly good. The pate is the best of the bunch — very traditional. Packed with herbs and aromatic flavours, the two varieties of pork roll were outstanding, too. With slightly crustier, denser bread, the whole thing feels more French than anything else out there. Saigon in a bun.

Banh Mi Thanh Mai Hoang 107 Truong Dinh, Q3 Mornings only Score: 8.5/10 This is a picture perfect early-morning spot. Offering a text-book balance of flavours and components, the standout ingredient here is the sliced roast pork. Reminding me of slow-cooked beef brisket, it’s tender, moist and tears apart beautifully. A fried egg is a welcome addition to my morning. It has everything you could ask for. Like most versions across the city, it’s not overflowing with meat as some visitors may expect, but ask for more of anything and the cheerful vendor will happily oblige. For VND17,000, it’s a strong contender. Excellent quality meats and a great location.

Banh Mi Hong Hoa 62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Breakfast and lunch Score: 10/10 Nguyen Van Trang offers a glimpse into old Saigon. Street vendors and incense smoke abound, and an unending flow of bodies and bikes arrives at number 62 for a take-away breakfast. With bread baked onsite and a lineup of high-quality homemade ingredients, Hong Hoa’s banh mi are as fresh as they come. Above sumptuous smears of pate and mayo, three styles of pork are thickly sliced and generously applied, allowing each to hold its own across the spectrum of flavours. Firecrackers of chilli explode at just the right volume, at just the right moments, and a seam of coriander and cucumber holds the whole ensemble together. It’s a symphony of a sandwich — and it only costs VND17,000. The winner. Joyous from start to finish.

fashion

The BoBo Left page: Dress: Le Ciné | Flower Crown: Amy Cleary Right page: Dress: Le Ciné | Necklace: YNot!

Le Retour des Beaux Jours After the cold of winter and greyness and drizzle of early spring, good weather is returning to the capital. Here are three elegant looks to take you through to the summer. Photographer Julie Vola Assistant Trung Del Model Laurinda Belcher Styling David Mann, Laurinda

Belcher, Julie Vola Hair and make-up by Julie Vola

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The Lady

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Left page: Dress: Double Dose, VND4 million Right page: Dress: Double Dose, VND8 million

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The Girl Next Door

Left page: Shirt: Bias, VND450,000 | Pants: Bias, VND400,000 Right Page: Shirt: Bias, VND450,000 | Pants: Bias, VND650,000

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Le CinĂŠ

lecine.vn Double Dose

doubledose.vn@gmail.com facebook.com/DoubleDose.vn 35b Nguyen Binh Khiem, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi Amy Cleary

amycleary.com BIAS 90 XuanDieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi YNot Furniture & Interior Design

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MYANMAR

The Last Post on the Bugle When the British colonised Asia, they brought with them people from all over world. Yangon, the capital of Myanmar, was no different. Katie Jacobs explores a city that is as much steeped in history as it is focused on a brighter future. Photos by Julie Vola

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he star-patterned tiles are slick beneath my feet. Under a century’s worth of spilt tea, betel nut spit and street grime, the faded colours are still visible, and how beautiful they are. Once home to Rangoon’s most exclusive products — fine liqueurs, Egyptian cigarettes, British candies — the old Sofaer Building, like most of Yangon’s stately colonial architecture, is looking a little worse for wear. Pausing to inspect a long-retired elevator, the broken wrought iron railings hide beneath piles of disused furniture and layers of dusty cobwebs, it looks like even the spiders have moved on. With only the dim light from a broken courtyard window, I walk carefully across the landing of the 100-year-old building, descending slowly down a rickety staircase. Emerging onto the hot, sunny street, the silent and shadowy interior of the building is swallowed into the chaos of city. Modern day Yangon is bustling. With the goal of exploring Bagan and trekking the hills of the Shan state, my husband and I embarked on our Tet holiday to Myanmar. Though planning a quick stopover to see an old friend in Yangon, we had given the city very little consideration. “Just another Asian city,” I thought. I was wrong.

The Birth of a City Founded as a small fishing village in the 11th century, the settlement — then known as Dagon — was centred around Shwedagon Pagoda, a towering golden stupa nearly 100 metres tall and said to contain relics of four previous Buddhas. King Alaungpaya, founder of the Konbaung Dynasty, captured the area from the Mon Kingdom in 1755 and renamed it Yangon, meaning ‘end of strife’. The moniker did not last, as less than a century later Alaungpaya’s Yangon was burnt to the ground during the first AngloBurmese War. Shortly after in 1852, the British seized what remained of the city, transforming it into the commercial and political hub of their new colony — British Burma. Rangoon, the name given to the city by her colonisers, is widely assumed to be the British interpretation of Yangon. And so began nearly a century of metropolitan development encompassing not only new styles of urban planning and architecture, but also introducing foreign cultures and drastically changing the city’s demographics.

Colonial Glory When the British arrived in Yangon, they did so with the intention of building a modern and global city. Starting with an urban grid design, and inserting the ancient Sule Pagoda as the central traffic circle, they went on to build grand banks and trading companies, fashionable hotels and department stores, luxurious villas and clubs. By the beginning of the 20th century, the infrastructure and services of Rangoon’s port rivalled those of London. Every week,

ships unloaded new products, new fashions and new people. Attracted to this fast-paced development, traders and enterprises from around the world flocked to Rangoon. Although the city was already home to foreign enterprises (most notably Armenian), under British rule Rangoon became a cosmopolitan hub. At the height of the colonial period, only a third of the city’s population were Bamar (Burmese). South Asians represented the majority, while Karens, Chinese, Europeans and others made up the rest. Over two days exploring downtown Yangon, we not only visited the ancient Sule Pagoda, but also passed a Sunni mosque, a Shia mosque, a Jewish synagogue, a Jain temple, a Taoist temple, a Hindu temple, a Sikh temple, a Methodist church and a Baptist church. All were built over a century ago and are still active today.

Around the World in Five Blocks The smell of sweet frying pastry and barbequed meat wafts through the open window as our taxi crawls through a bustling street market. Eyeing tables laden with fresh vegetables and pickled fruits,

we make our way through the throng of pedestrians, shoppers and cars towards dinner. Sitting down at a streetside table along the busy 19th Street, I feel transported to a long gone era reminiscent of old Hong Kong. Surrounded by crowded streets lined with grimy apartment blocks, the area is awash with flimsy balconies, drying laundry and neon signs glowing in Burmese, English and Chinese characters. Stopping at one of the many ropes dangling from the balconies, our friend gives the string a gentle tug. “It’s a makeshift doorbell,” she grins “but even better, the morning paper and any other packages can be clipped onto it and hauled into the apartment above.” We witness this at lunch the next day when a waiter ties a bag of food to a rope, which quickly disappears into an upperstorey window. The following afternoon we leave old Hong Kong behind for the sights and smells of India. Making our way along Maha Bandoola Road, it’s hard not to stare at the sizzling samosas, weaving rickshaws, and barking hawkers selling everything from TV

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remotes to knock-off sunglasses. The sun is setting as we wander among rows of colonial townhouses lining the narrow streets north of Merchant Road. Once single-family homes, these stately buildings in various states of disrepair now house hundreds of occupants. The luxury and comfort may have decreased over the past seven decades, but their faded glory and charm are impossible to overlook. Among the tacked-on satellites, air-conditioners and power lines, the colourfully painted facades with high ceilings, shuttered windows and decoratively adorned balconies stand as a testament to Yangon’s past glory. Turning onto Bogalay Zay Street, we are greeted by the sight of a stately red-brick building glowing in the evening light. Enclosed behind rolls of barbed wire and overgrown gardens, the city block-sized compound commands respect. We have found the Secretariat. Once the seat of colonial power in Burma, and subsequently the government compound, this labyrinth of halls, offices and courtyards now lies deserted. As with many grand old buildings once used by government, the Secretariat was abandoned in 2005 when the capital city relocated

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to Nay Pyi Taw, 380km north of Yangon. With the high cost of renovation, and with bureaucracy surrounding ownership rights, the Secretariat and similar buildings remain in a state of purgatory.

Future History Working to conserve the city’s architecture and promote conservation, Dr. Thant Myint-U, a renowned academic and historian, founded the Yangon Heritage Trust in 2012. “Yangon’s unique architectural heritage is today in peril, from the effects of long neglect, as well as the consequences of recent commercial development,” he writes in the book 30 Heritage Buildings of Yangon. “If Yangon’s architectural heritage is destroyed, a big part of its legacy as a cosmopolitan, multi-faith and multi-ethnic city will be lost.” Hoping to preserve Yangon’s architectural heritage and unique buildings — such as the City Hall, which displays a distinctive combination of British architecture and Burmese design inspired by ancient temples — the Trust does not want to see Yangon revert to its colonial heyday. Instead, they hope to “promote and

integrate Yangon’s unique urban history into a 21st century vision of Yangon as one of Asia’s most livable cities”. Walking through the Trust’s public gallery, a poster depicts Yangon’s potential future, one where heritage buildings restored to their former glory sit alongside new developments, influenced by modern and sustainable urban planning. The image shows parks and walkways surrounded by colonial buildings and modern skyscrapers, all centred around Sule pagoda, the heart of old and new Yangon. “This is Burma, it is unlike any land you know about,” wrote Rudyard Kipling in 1898. What a romantic notion, I thought, as I read those words on the plane to Yangon. Standing next to the crumbling elegance of the Secretariat building, watching the last of the day’s sun illuminate the golden Sule Pagoda, in a city teaming with people from all over the world, I could not help but agree. The Yangon Heritage Trust is open every day from 9am to 5pm. The office and gallery is located on the first floor of 22-24 Pansodan Street, Yangon. For more information about their heritage tours visit their website at yangonheritagetrust.org

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On the beach in front of Hua Hin Sailing Club

TRAVEL

THAILAND

Hua Hin

Avoiding the Thai islands, Nick Ross heads to the royal city of Hua Hin for his dose of the beach life

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The Hyatt Regency Hua Hin and its sister spa resort, The Barai, are among the top properties in the area

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Hua Hin has a mix of everything, from the old train station through to macaques and pagodas

nlike so many other countries, Thailand’s tourist industry doesn’t rely on one major market. Whether it’s for sun, sea, sand and mountains, or big city life, cheap thrills and shopping malls, people come to ‘The Land of Smiles’ from everywhere. Yet despite its white sands and proximity to Bangkok, tourists heading for the beach tend to hit the islands, often avoiding the three-hour trip south to Hua Hin. It’s a mistake. As I was told so frequently on my recent visit, Hua Hin is the home of the king. The palace there, Klai Kang Wong, is his summer residence. Nestled on the Gulf of Thailand coast at the top of the country’s skinny waist, the presence of royalty means that the nightlife in this city is a little bit more low-key. Or so I was told. The difference is the lack of open-scale, Pattaya-style debauchery. As I discovered, at night Hua Hin is still pumping, but just not with the same compulsive madness of elsewhere. A perfect tonic to too many nights in the big city. But few come to Hua Hin for nightlife, it’s for everything else. There are 10 golf courses here, four or five of which are considered world-class. And the white-sand beaches outside the main central area easily rival those of the islands. Here you can still find that image of paradise. The weather is also said to be the best in Thailand — and overlooked by mountains that stretch the short distance to the border with Myanmar, you can see why.

But what struck me initially was the food — I had Thai meals as good as anything else I’d eaten in this country — and the accommodation. I was lucky enough to stay in the Hyatt Regency. That it is only rated as one of the top resorts in the area says a lot. The quality and variety of accommodation at all ends of the spectrum is enough to inspire envy. And for me, the Hyatt Regency was already hitting those luxury holiday heights that we like to dream of. Lush vegetation, a large pool area, well-appointed rooms and the quite stunning spa next door at The Barai — the sister resort to the Hyatt — make this oasis of indulgence a perfect holiday retreat. On my final day I took a motorbike out to the recently inaugurated Hua Hin Sailing Club and, camera in hand, got myself out on the sea on a dinghy. It was exhilarating. I then headed to the city’s train station, daubed in traditional red and beige and still with all its early 20th century, royalty-inspired wooden fixings. A photographer’s dream. But after hitting the viewpoints over the city — there are many — and a Chinese pagoda on the seafront, what really got me was the artists’ village 5km outside of Central Hua Hin. Creative, contemporary and wideranging (artworks cost from pennies through to thousands), there was a relaxing, almost spiritual atmosphere out here. It’s a drive out of town, but worth every second.

Golf in Hua Hin Prior to starting Hua Hin Sailing Club, Richard Vine ran golf tours to Hua Hin and its neighbouring town, ChaAm. Here are his tips for the top golf courses in the area. According to Richard, the top golf course is B LACK M OUNTAIN (the course fee is THB3,500 for walk-in customers — blackmountainhuahin.com). This is closely followed by B ANYAN (THB3,000 — banyanthailand. com) and S PRINGFIELD (THB2,500 — springfieldresort.com/golf). Of all three, the Jack Nicklaus-designed Springfield has “probably the best layout and is really fun to walk, and great to play”. After that, you’ve got P ALM H ILLS (palmhills-golf.com) and L AKE V IEW (imperialhotels.com). A round at both courses costs about THB2,000. The standard caddy fee is THB300 per round and the best time to go is during the H UA H IN G OLF F ESTIVAL (Aug. 1 to Sep. 6). Throughout this period, course fees at all participating golf clubs start at THB1,000. “Otherwise,” says Richard, “check directly with each of the golf clubs to see if they’ve got any deals going.” At the time of writing, THB1,000 was the equivalent of VND650,000

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Learning to sail at Hua Hin Sailing Club

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The artists' village just outside of Hua Hin is one of the destination's main surprises

Information Hua Hin is 220km south of Bangkok. A THB2,000 (VND1.3 million) taxi ride from Central Bangkok, there is also a direct minibus service to Suvarnabhumi Airport. The trip takes three hours.

H YATT R EGENCY H UA H IN

huahin.regency.hyatt.com Room rates start at around THB6,000 depending on the season (VND3.95 million).

T HE H UA H IN S AILING C LUB

huahinsailing.com The Sailing Club runs a number of courses for both adults and children at very reasonable rates. For information call Richard on (66) 8 7888 7565 or email richard@huahinsailing.com

T HE A RTISTS â&#x20AC;&#x2122; V ILLAGE Known in Thai as B AAN S ILAPIN , do a

search on Google for information. The so-called artistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; colony comes up as one of the main attractions in Hua Hin.

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DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI – MID-RANGE / HANOI – BUDGET / HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE

$$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn

tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three– night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.

CUC PHUONG

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006 cucphuongtourism.com

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 02183 825662 etoile-des-mers.com

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com

MAI CHAU ECOLODGE DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031) 388 0888 pearlriverhotel.vn

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking

Na Phon, Hoa Binh, Tel: (04) 6275 1271 maichau.ecolodge.asia Occupies a private hill in Na Phon Village in Mai Chau, Hoa Binh — a beautiful valley roughly 135km southwest of Hanoi — Mai Chau Ecolodge is a new four-star property featuring 21 bungalows built and operated with ecological principles in mind.

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: (0218) 386 8959 maichaulodge.com

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108 novotelhalong.com.vn

TAM COC GARDEN RESORT Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249 2118 contact@tamcocgarden. com tamcocgarden.com Surrounded by rice fields and spectacular karsts,

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Tam Coc Garden is a haven of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury. Spacious rooms with rustic and chic décor, a pool with breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic views over the fields and mountains. The perfect place to relax.

HANOI - INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL

$$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel. com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the

hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396 hanoi.hgi.com With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500 hanoi.hilton.com Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental. com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi

is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi. com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan

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Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

$$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

REX HOTEL

EQUATORIAL

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2185

rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now five-star property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

(08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

NORFOLK HOTEL

ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International

HCMC - MID-RANGE $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC - BUDGET

EMM HOTEL

DUC VUONG HOTEL

157 Pasteur, Q3 A sleek, contemporary threestar hotel that mixes vintage appeal and modern chic thanks to a subdued palette of white and grey around two ‘pop’ colours: azalea pink and green hot pepper. Part of the Thien Minh Group that includes Victoria Hotels and Buffalo Tours.

$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - DELUXE CONTINENTAL

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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DESTINATION ZERO LA RÉSIDENCE

ue 1930. The mansion at 5 Le Loi opened as an addition to the residence of the colonial French Resident Superiore. This period was the hey-day of the Art Deco school of design. No corner of the globe was beyond the bounds of this particular movement. So reads the periodical we pick up at the entrance, just inside the main room of the mansion of the former governor of Annam — aka, Central Vietnam. Beyond, there is a wooden bar with a pleasant curve to it, Hibiki and Hendrick’s on the back bar. We walk past portraits of colonial types perched over fancy cars, animal skins draped over their bedposts. Past a shop selling locally-sourced crafts with a contemporary edge, where my father will later buy VND4 million worth of jewellery. Up the slightly convex stairs to a tidy

double room, whose glass doors lead out to a vast shared patio, the Perfume River curving underneath. It’s the week after Tet in Hue’s fanciest hotel, and everywhere people seem to be breathing a sigh of relief.

Echoes of the Past La Résidence has some history, this you can see down every corridor you walk. The design strikes a balance between the colonial echoes of the building’s beginnings and the modern city it’s anchored since 2005. While the rooms are named after colonial luminaries, the business centre is decorated with portraits of the rulers of the imperial age. And the meticulous staff is largely made of Hue natives, whose commitment to the city is evident in their care and humour. The modern city in which La Résidence

is located takes cues from all of these influences, and is increasingly fulfilling that promise. During our second night, we see an edge of that new city. With La Résidence’s PR liaison Lan leading the way, we take a coffee by the newly pedestrianised riverfront. The lack of traffic hum fits in with the relaxed vibe we’ve been carrying with us throughout our visit. The next morning we take the same tranquil breakfast we took the day before, on the outdoor patio facing the Perfume River. Later, I take a book down to the near-Olympic-sized, salt-water swimming pool, trying to get this relaxed feeling into my bones. It’s all around the hotel, its aura as thick as the imperial city we walked through the day before. — Ed Weinberg Check out La Résidence Hotel & Spa at laresidence-hue.com

travel

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travel HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com

CUA DAI

$ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com

Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.

THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre– programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT AND SPA Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510) 392 7040 victoriahotels.asia

HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 354 5105 domainedetamhai.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 391 4555 life-resorts.com

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/ lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

$ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/ destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

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JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses.com/resorts/ ninh-van-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 382 0999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn

PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727 ninhchubay.com Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 374 3777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic

Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine.com

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222 princessannam.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY

$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367

5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

SAIGON - PHONG NHA

$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo. com.vn

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: (077) 399 5895 centarahotelsresorts.com

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SALINDA PHU QUOC ISLAND, RESORT AND SPA Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 399 0011 salindaresort.com A five-star luxury beach resort, hotel and spa right on the beach of Phu Quoc island in the peaceful town of Duong To, just 4km from the international airport of Phu Quoc.

SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao

travel THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include a 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 exotravel.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours.

Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/

vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977 kien@travelsense.asia A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING SERVICE 12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh, District 1, HCMC Call center: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com info.en@chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best prices and reliable service. If you are looking for great local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com. It has been the #1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.

EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotravel.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

GINKGO VOYAGE 1st Floor, 130 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 3914 3344 ginkgovoyage.com Offers a full range of quality travel services to both domestic and international travellers, including private and customized tours, small group tours, hotels bookings as well as corporate travel / MICE solutions in Vietnam and further. Email info@ ginkgovoyage.com for info.

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure.

com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead the way.

TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659 backofthebiketours.com Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience.

BEENINASIA.COM www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate

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THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 1: NOSTALGIA

Filmmaker and long-time Hanoi expat Matt Dworzanczyk recently packed up his life and set off on a solo motorbike trip across the world DAY 1 See you again, Hanoi… Left Hanoi in bad cold and wet slush, driving down stinky Minh Khai. Can’t remember the last time before today I ever struggled with saying ‘goodbye’. Yet despite the countless times I’ve said, “No way can I stand yet another winter in Hanoi!” now, as my adopted hometown disappears behind me, every bone in my body hurts for me to… just stay. And for the first time in… well, long, I don’t even mind the slow traffic. It gives me time to rewind and play back both the great adventures and seemingly insignificant yet still dear moments of my past six years: “Oh, there’s the tiny bun cha joint with the big outdoor stove that I used to go to!” and “Ah, next what!? I miss Roots Bar and their ‘Cinnamon Attacks’, off of the old menu nobody else knew about!” and “There’s the (now luxury) sky-rise a friend and I broke into some years ago, just to have a ‘Slumdog-Millionaire’-

style moment, looking down at the city from the top of (at the time) a major construction site!” I think back on the madness around Hoan Kiem during the 1,000-years of Hanoi celebrations; I think of my dear Minsk, of all the nem and banh chung around Tet (not so much the tiet canh, though!), of all those crazy events, the unique films I’ve made here, of all the innocent kitschiness, of all the illogical things the locals do that we long-term expats simply stopped seeking sense in. I think of all the great friends I have here… oh… I just left the city. I’m excited for my travels, but as I leave, it’s nostalgia and a simple love for Hanoi that overshadows all else.

DAY 3 Dien Bien Phu Got to Dien Bien Phu pretty smoothly/ pretty quick! Nemo did well! Ah, yes, my

bike’s name is Nemo (for the old Nintendo game, not the silly fish). And yes, it’s a he — and there’s not a feminine thing about him! I took classes on Vietnam’s history in college, but my memories are rusty. Still, my knowledge seems superior to the info provided in the less-than-impressive history museum (although the building looks cool). It took Wikipedia to make sense of the photos posted around the otherwise pretty empty room. Oh, wait… did they copy those photos off of Wikipedia, too?

DAY 6 Going to Lao! Not going to Lao… So the smart-arse at the border won’t let me leave Vietnam with my motorbike… Uh… 460km till the next border crossing I can try…

travel

DAY 8 The Convincing Powers of US$30 Took a shortcut. Regretted it soon after. Made up a song: There’s so many rocks, There’s so many holes, Does spraying water Really help at all? But where is the road? Where is the road?! There is no f****** road!!! Flat tyre. Uh. I got an hour till the border closes. No time to change. I just pump it up every 5km until I get to Lao, I’ll worry after. They let me through! I want to feel proud of making it so far, but I’m beyond exhausted… Beer Lao and off to sleep. For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky production blog at etheriumsky.com/prodblog

wordvietnam.com | April 2015 Word | 127

Hanoi

BAR STOOL // RECALLING HANOI // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // FOOD PROMOS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

hanoi

business

BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS BUSINESS GROUPS ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

CORPORATE SERVICES ENDO 79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manu-

facturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Hanoi Tel: 04 3946 0435 www.bishanoi.com The British International School (BIS) Hanoi, is a selective, independent, co-educational day school. It provides a British style education for an international student body operating from a modern purpose-built campus in the vibrant and cultured city of Hanoi. The National Curriculum for England, International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE) and Advanced Level (A Level) are taught to English speaking students from Pre-School to Year 13. The International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma will, pending IB authorization, be offered from 2016 onwards.

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN HANOI 3rd floor, Tower A, Keangnam Landmark, DinhNghe, Me Tri. Tel: 0965 588888 etonhouse.edu.vn Thanks to a unique curriculum used in over 100 schools, a stimulating and motivating environment, and a child-centred approach, children at Eton House make rapid progress and achieve their maximum potential. Classes offeredfor students aged 18 months to 6 years and there isan ‘Open Door’ Policy at all times.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS) 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international education for students from Primary up to University Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers. Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC

Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri New Urban, Tu Liem District, Tel: +84 4 3794 0209

APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and costeffective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 1460 rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

leading language centres.

142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. For more information email Vietnam@ santaferelo.com.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085

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BAR STOOL THE UNICORN BAR

Photos by Nick Ross

ike other loyal customers, I was devastated by the loss of the Mojito Bar — a cocktail establishment that burst onto the scene last year and enlivened the streets behind Hang Ga Mall. But, from the ashes rises the unicorn, The Unicorn Pub, to be exact, the latest venture spearheaded by wellknown Hanoi mixologist Pham Tien Tiep. Positioned on the corner of Hang Than, just off the bustling thoroughfare of Yen Phu, the new digs offers three quirkily decorated rooms to kick back and enjoy Tiep’s flirtatious hospitality and excellent cocktails. The Mojito Bar menu has been revamped with the addition of some new signature cocktails, such as the O Mai (VND120,000) — a delicious concoction of gin, apricot, lime, apple pie, honey and ginger — and has retained old favourites, including Tiep’s

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famous pho cocktail and flavoured mojitos. Opening its doors last month, The Unicorn Pub already has a steady roster of weekly specials that will entice those looking to find themselves a new, friendly neighbourhood cocktail bar. The venue features VND50,000 mixed drinks on Wednesdays, live music on Thursdays and VND250,000 cocktail jugs on Saturdays, just to name a few.

Mannequins and Unicorns The décor is hip and fun. A headless mannequin draped with multi-coloured chiffon poses next to a mural of rainbow unicorns galloping across the room. In the back section, a giant LED sign of the word “FREE” illuminates the surrounding wooden tables and comfy booths. Funky house tunes also add a cool and vibrant feel to the place.

Sipping an “O Mai” at the counter, I glance around the room and take in the bar’s camp décor and unicorn logo. The week before, I had accidentally mistaken The Unicorn for a gay bar while riding my bike to work — and let’s be honest, the addition of a thumping hip gay club would really liven things up in Hanoi. Buoyed by excitement, I put this theory to Tiep, who responded with his trademark coy smile. “This is a place for anyone and everyone to come have fun, be who they are and be happy,” he replied. “Gay or not, everybody’s welcome.” Gay bar or not, we think this hip new hangout is sure to be a hit with everyone. And with delicious, reasonably priced cocktails, stylish décor, great music and comfortable seating, this is surely a formula for success. — David Mann

hanoi atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

FRASER SUITES HANOI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 8877 Located in the West Lake area, Fraser Suites Hanoi consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four bedrooms, which meet any lifestyle. With a calming and warm interior feel, each apartment features all the latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides peace of mind.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central location.

SPORTS GARMENTS SCORE-TECH 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 01203 802832 A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a design team from Barcelona, Score-Tech controls the whole production process from producing fabrics and sewing to printing. Big and small orders of garments produced for all sporting needs.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

old quarter

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

BARS & CLUBS CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01679 647254 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3292 7614 8pm to late

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA BOMBA LATINA

LATIN BAR 46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0917 245155

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL RESTOBAR 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2104 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104

MOJITO BAR

CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR 19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/mojito.bar. lounge Decked out in wooden panelling and bare brick, this tastefully designed watering whole in the Old Quarter is known for its prize-winning bartender and excellent cocktails

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu.

SPY BAR

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802

TEMPLE BAR

NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6675 7908

TET BAR

LATE-NIGHT BAR 2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3050

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight

CAFES JOMA

INTERNATIONAL CAFE 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem joma.biz Housed in a two-storey converted, colonial-era villa, the concept of the third Joma is the same as at its two other cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter, and a great selection of sandwiches, bagels, salads, cakes, ice-cream and tea.

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma

has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade

juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOO SKATESHOP

SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com The downtown store of this well-known chic boutique. Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. Offers both ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s

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RECALLING HANOI PART 12

andscape is entangled with history and people’s lives. No matter how young we are or what social position we have, we all have stories to tell. The book I am working on, Recalling Hanoi, is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry weaved out of portraits, people’s stories

and the urban landscape that hosts them. I ask people living in the city to tell me about a place in Hanoi that holds memories. It can be about anything — a personal story intertwined with history; a great event; everyday little stories that our lives are made of. These stories, along with the photographs of the storyteller and the

location provide depth. Through this collection I am attempting to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait of this city through its collective memory. The hope is that the audience will connect to other people’s lives and also to their own memories in an attempt to understand this beautiful city.

very proud. On the way home he said he had chosen a piece he wanted to keep for himself; he described it perfectly. The piece follows him everywhere and is still hanging in his apartment today. Sometime later the gallery closed down. When my son was 16 years old, he would often go out to a nightclub called Dragonfly. It became a place I wasn’t allowed to go because it would be embarrassing for him to be in the same bar as his old man. I was out one night with Vietnamese friends who decided we should go to

Dragonfly. I hoped my son would have gone home by the time I arrived, and he had. Two years later, while my son was partying for his high school graduation, we, the parents, went on a tour of all the bars from which we’d been exiled and I found myself in Dragonfly again. Suddenly, I realised that I was in the old Trang An Gallery, the very place I’d had my first exhibition. It was a cool moment because that place holds a lot of memories for me in Hanoi and also played a part in my son’s teenage years.

Brian Dragonfly Location: Dragonfly In 1997 my friend Natasha introduced me to Trang An Gallery and they invited me to show my work. As my first solo exhibition in Hanoi, it was really important to me and as the time got closer I got more excited and nervous. As usual, two or three days before the big day I started to panic, thinking it might have all been a big mistake to agree to do this. However, the exhibition was well received. At the time my son was five years old, and I remember his kindergarten teacher came to the opening. He took her around and showed her everything, he was

hanoi

BY JULIE VOLA

Ly Bich Ngoc The New Road Location: Xa Dan I lived here from my birth until my 20th birthday. My father was a soldier during the war, driving trucks of fresh soldiers to the front. At the end of the war, the government offered him either a piece of land or an apartment. My father chose the land. It was 40sqm with a small lake behind it. For many months my dad unloaded trucks of sand, rocks and earth into the lake to increase the size of the land and this is how we came to have a 100sqm of land for our house and garden.

From my memories growing up, this area used to be like the countryside: going fishing at the lake nearby with my brother, growing fruit trees in the garden, keeping chickens and ducks. When I was a kid I would climb on the trees in the garden to pick fruit, we had a huge mango tree and a guava tree. Our neighbour had a large apple tree, so when they were away I would climb over and steal apples, and the neighbourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kids would do the same with our mangos.

In the past ten years this area has changed dramatically. Ten years ago they built a new street, Pham Ngoc Thach, for which they had to destroy my house, and then three years ago they built Xa Dan Street. This is the final excerpt from Julie Volaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work, Recalling Hanoi. For more information email juls.vola@gmail.com

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COFFEE CUP CAFÉ DUY TRI

mid a growing litany of modern coffee houses and fancy-schmancy artisan cafes, one of Vietnam’s first cafes is still going strong. Café Duy Tri, which originally opened on Mai Hac De in Hanoi's Hai Ba Trung District in 1936, continues to be one of the most popular coffee shops in the capital today. The cafe remains family-run, managed by Duy Tri and his wife Dang Thi Chin who relocated the shop to Tay Ho in 2000 after taking the reigns from Duy Tri’s father, armed serviceman Phan Duy Sen. Now, with help from their daughter and her husband, the pair welcomes visitors from all over Hanoi (and the globe) who flock to taste the family’s 75-year-old patented coffee recipe. It’s easy to see why this lovable familyrun cafe is so popular. The traditional, multi-storey tube-house makes for a cosy spot to while away the afternoon with a good book, or to hang out with a group of friends. The three levels provide ample — albeit low — seating and more importantly, a fascinating glimpse into the family’s history, whether it’s the black and white photos depicting their involvement in the war or portraits of their grandkids.

The Real Deal When we visit, the tables are filled with a mix of foreigners lazing by the window and Vietnamese huddling around cups of ca phe nau da. Tourists curiously plod their way up the steps to the upper levels, studying the pictures on the wall and shaking hands with Duy Tri. The most endearing feature of Café Duy Tri is that there is no pretense about it, just good old fashioned, warm Vietnamese hospitality, and a cheerful, no-frills and cheaply priced menu. On any day, the family welcomes you into the shop as if it is their home. And, as you may have guessed, they are extremely proud of their coffee. And with good reason. If you want to taste real Vietnamese coffee — i.e., not fancy pumpkin-spiced, hazelnut frappadouches — this is the place to try it. The unique blend of Arabica, Robusta and Mocha (a coffee variant derived from Arabica) beans packs an intense wallop. Actually, make that a wallop-and-a-half. And the recipe is a jealously guarded family secret made to strict specifications to deliver a uniquely sharp taste and aromatic smell. “Each variety of bean is roasted differently before it is mixed to a highly

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Photos by Trung Del

specific ratio,” says Duy. “It’s been influenced by the French style of making coffee and is completely natural, made without any artificial additives.” That recipe, passed down from Duy Tri’s father, is almost 75 years old and continues to be popular with their customers today. Their most famous offering by far, though, is the ca phe sua chua, or yoghurt coffee (VND23,000), which is a crowd favourite. It comes deconstructed with a slightly sour yet sweet dollop of frozen yoghurt, a fresh shot of Vietnamese coffee and generous swirls of condensed milk. The cafe also serves a mix of smoothies and iced coffee drinks, none of which exceed VND40,000.

For Duy Tri, coffee has been an indispensible part of his family’s life. His father ran small coffee shops as a means to support his family when they were evacuated from Hanoi at various points during the war. When his father joined the military, his mother ran the shop while they lived in Thai Nguyen Province and then again when they were evacuated to Ha Nam, Nam Dinh, Thanh Hoa and Ninh Binh. Now, at the age of 75, and after long careers as a military mechanic and a teacher, he is proud to be continuing his parents’ work. And boy, is he doing it well. — David Mann Café Duy Tri is at 43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

hanoi move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

THREE TREES

JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

CRAFTS & FURNITURE MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm A slither of a joint serving up the same fare that the lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm

GREEN TANGERINE

FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639 10am to midnight

KHAZAANA

PAN-INDIAN 34 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5657

khazana@fpt.com Established in 1993, Khazaana serves up Desi Indian and Mughlai cuisine to the background of a Bollywood soundtrack. All food is Halal and all four chefs hail from the Indian Subcontinent.

LITTLE INDIA

INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1859 littleindianhn@gmail.com

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium

restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery.

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com

THE KAFE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

THE MOOSE AND ROO

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls.

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat. Features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580

TANDOOR

PAN-INDIAN 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAFÉ

FITNESS & YOGA STUDIO FIVE

YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515 http://studio5.vn facebook.com/yogastudio5 6am to 8pm An international and professional Yoga Studio providing more than 20 different yoga styles such as: Hatha Yoga, Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga, Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with infrared heater), Power Yoga and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes per day. Bring harmony back into your life — Studio Five is the perfect place to reconnect your mind with your body.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR BACCHUS CORNER

WINE RETAILER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253

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TOP EATS

MOOSE & ROO SMOKEHOUSE

here were whispers of excitement when the Moose & Roo Pub and Grill opened its doors on Ma May Street in 2013. Tourists flocked there after reading emphatic TripAdvisor recommendations, while locals quickly spread word about the restaurant’s tasty cuisine. At the beginning of this year, Moose & Roo Pub’s highly anticipated sequel arrived. And just like the pub before it, the Moose & Roo Smokehouse is making waves. The smokehouse carries over some of the popular dishes from the pub’s menu, including the highly acclaimed “Beef N Bone Marrow Burger” (VND155,000) that made our top 3 in March’s ranking of Hanoi’s best burgers. But the main difference between the two is a custom-built smoker that churns out delectable, melt-in-the-mouth, slowcooked meats, including, but not limited to delicious pork ribs. Not salivating yet? We’ll see about that.

Smoke Up, Jonny! The man behind the menu is Scottish chef Richie Bardsley, who has cooked his away around the globe, dishing up high-end fare from Stockholm to Sydney. Training under the tutelage of famous TV chefs Rick Stein and Luke Mangan, Bardsley describes

himself as something of a “crazy scientist” when it comes to creating food that’s as innovative as it is delicious. “A lot of love has gone into this menu,” says Richie, handing me a plate of the restaurant’s delicious fennel-cured pork rinds (VND75,000) and a canister of apple sauce. “Even with the smoker, we tested 10 different kinds of wood before settling on the right one.” That perfect wood that he’s referring to is a special cashew variety imported from Saigon, which helps infuse all of the smokehouse’s meat with smoky, barbecuey goodness. One downside of this love-infused menu is that it’s actually pretty stressful deciding what to order. Coming to my aid, Richie points me to the “BBQ Tasting Board”, a butcher’s block that comes heaped with house-made sausages, pulled pork, chicken and the mother of all meaty treats — ribs. The ribs, slow-cooked at 110 degrees for 10-plus hours, are unbelievably succulent. An incredible barbecue sauce smothered over the top adds a layer of spicy sweetness to the smoked pork. I follow this with handfuls of perfectly salted French fries and chipotle coleslaw — one of two ‘fixins’ that come with the tasting board. This, ladies and gentlemen, is flavour country. Located in the American Club, the venue has a distinctly American/countrywestern feel about it. Behind the bar, the

walls are adorned with neon Budweiser signs and plasma TVs beaming in the latest sportscasts. The thatched cabana area is an arrangement of comfy American-style booths and long wooden benches ideal for larger groups. When we visit, a group of American expats sit at the bar chatting and crunching on buttermilk chicken wings served with blue-cheese sauce (VND65,000). Behind them, a Vietnamese family of six tuck into the restaurant’s Al DeMatteis Platter (VND1,225,000), which comes with “everything from the smoker” plus five fixins.

A Different Clientele As I wash down the ribs with a mug of Carlsberg draught (VND45,000), Richie explains that the restaurant has been a hit with Hanoi’s downtown business crowd. “Unlike at the pub, which mostly attracts foreigners — tourists and expats — around half of the smokehouse’s clientele are Vietnamese.” I look around the restaurant and see tables of Vietnamese businessmen clinking mugs of Budweiser and feasting on half-racks of smoked pork ribs (VND300,000) and smoked beef brisket (VND275,000). As I begin tearing into my “Trailer Trash Burger” (a burger combining the godly superpowers of deep-fried ‘mac n cheese’ and pulled pork; VND155,000), I get a chance

hanoi

Photos by Julie Vola

to speak with founder and co-owner Keith Thibert, a Canadian. “How is it?” he asks, watching me hawk down chunks of deep-fried macaroni and cheese with a sheepish grin. “Pretty amazing.” He laughs. Keith began his life long love affair with food in Vancouver where he dabbled in the local café scene before moving to Hue to become food and beverage manager at a hotel. Afterwards, he spent a year-and-a-half managing Jackson’s Steakhouse before going out on his own. Curious, I ask if there are plans to expand the Moose & Roo empire. “The response to the Smokehouse has been incredible, and we’re thinking of adding a third down the track,” he hints as I plough a spoon into a deliciously light “Banoffee Pot” (VND125,000) dessert — an incredible concoction of biscuit crumble, banana, whipped cream, chocolate and vanilla ice cream. “But for now, we really want to focus on the pub and the smokehouse. But who knows, maybe…” Whether there is a third instalment in the works or not, the Smokehouse is a fine addition to the Moose & Roo stable. But if there is, we’ll be first in line for a table. — David Mann Moose & Roo Smokehouse is at The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

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hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)

hoan kiem

THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi.com

L’ESPACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT

PARIS DELI

Bà i

Triệu

Hàng

Hu ế

Phan

Bà

Chu Trin h

Sứ

Q uá n Sứ

Đinh Ti ên H o à n g

Hưng

Phùng

Hà n g G à

Hàng Điếu

Hưng Phùng

Quán Nguy ễn Du

Trần Hưn gĐ ạo

Lê Văn H u ư

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uyên

MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late

PHUC TAN

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem

RELAX BAR

HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

ZONE 17

BAMBOO BAR 17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem The first bar in what will eventually (hopefully) be a

138 | Word April 2015 | wordvietnam.com

CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

Tiền

ư nh D Khá Trần

FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am La Fée Verte (or the ‘Green Fairy’) is a metaphor for the decadence of another age, an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The signature bar of the Hotel de l’Opéra Hanoi where, just as in Paris at the dawn of the 20th century, the making of an evening drink a lavish event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge atmosphere, great music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine to bring a genuine sense of occasion to after-dark in the capital.

Hà

CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

Tổ

+84 BAR

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WILD WEST THEME BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822

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Thi

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17 COWBOYS

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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

Lý Thái Tổ

Ngu yễn Du

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Nguyễn Tri Phư ơng

D ật Lê Thái Tổ

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Đào ng Hà

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Cầu Gỗ

Trần Hưn gĐ ạo Lê Duẩn

Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

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HOAN KIEM DISTRICT

zone dedicated to bars and restaurants. A pool table, a square bar in the middle of the room and a barbecue until the early hours — there’s quite an atmosphere in this pleasant watering hole.

CAFES CIAO CAFÉ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

TWITTER BEANS COFFEE 45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com

CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE

ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES AMERICAN CLUB

EVENT SPACE 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contem-

porary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA BADIANE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night. A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.

hanoi

FOOD PROMOS HANOI

LE BEAULIEU

CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

The seafood salad Nicoise at The Press Club

NINETEEN 11

British Promotion at Annam Roll up! Roll up! For all you Brits and Anglophones out there, Annam Gourmet is doing a special promotion starting on Apr. 8. And the focus? Beer and fine food from the United Kingdom. Yes, people, it’s true, Britain is far more than just fish and chips, warm beer, roast beef and deep-fried Mars Bars. These days there’s actually a food culture there. Annam Gourmet is at the Syrena Centre, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Dose up on Dim Sum There ain’t all that much choice on the Chinese food front in Hanoi, but one purveyor all things good that come from north of the border is the Fortuna. And for April they’re going hard on promoting dim dum. Dumpling yourself Monday to Saturday lunchtimes (11am to 2pm) with their all-youcan-eat deal, running in at VND298,000++ per adult (children go for VND149,000). On Sunday, the brunch deal is a touch pricier — hey it’s only VND20,000 per person we’re talking about here — but is equally well worth the visit.

Fortuna Hotel is at 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Hanoi or online at fortuna.vn

West Lake Sunday Brunch InterCons around the world are known for their lavish, belly-filling Sunday brunches, and our very own InterContinental Hanoi Westlake is no slacker in this gluttonous field. The venue? Cafe du Lac. The deal? VND 1,110,000 net/adult excluding drinks. The lowdown? Nine live cooking stations, six types of cuisine, live music and the all important views over West Lake. You know you want to eat up this Sunday. Yes, you know you do! InterCon is at 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Ease into Easter Sunday Apr. 15 is the day, and the place, says Hanoi’s Movenpick, should be at the Movenpick. With a special Sunday brunch for the occasion, classic dishes include roast lamb, steamed tiger prawn, grilled beef medallions with sautéed mushroom, baked oyster Florentine and of course the mandatory of all mandatories, chocolate Easter Eggs. Just don’t

expect any bunnies to be hoppin’ about. The Easter Brunch is priced at VND 920,000++ per person and includes a two-hour freeflow of house wine, draft beer and soft drinks. For reservations call (04) 3822 2800 ext. 6201 or email ngoc. nguyen@moevenpick.com

Sea Food, Eat Food The Press Club is one for monthly specials, and April is no different with the wellappointed restaurant and bar going heavy on shrimp, scallop and salmon. Included on the specials menu are dishes like grilled scallops on Nicoise salad with red wine dressing (VND200,000++) or the mussel turmeric soup (VND140,000++). There’s also the grilled shrimp diavolo with spicy spaghetti in a tomato sauce served with garlic croutons (VND350,000+++) and the grilled salmon with Hollandaise sauce served with parsley potatoes and seasonal vegetables (VND320,000++). The list, quite literally, goes on. Even better — each of the specials is served with a complimentary glass of house white wine. For more information call (04) 3934 0888

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm

PANE E VINO

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PRESS CLUB

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.

SATINE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com

WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR CITIMART

SUPERMARKET Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

DA LOC

WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

HANOI GOURMET

DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com The long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

INTIMEX

VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226

WESTERN CANNED FOODS

GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

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hanoi

THE ALCHEMIST EVERLASTING BLISS

ollow your bliss, says Joseph Campbell. But what if our bliss has outmaneuvered us and the mundane routines of life have left us feeling less than joyful. How to get our mojo back? Better still, how not to lose it in the first place?

Fill Your Energy Tank Bliss is a high-energy frequency. In order to keep up with it we need to ensure our energy levels are high. Sleep, exercise and a healthy diet are all essential ingredients in establishing a balanced state of wellbeing with elevated energy levels. An adequate supply of energy allows us to pursue the activities that bring us joy. These will be as unique to the individual as there are activities to choose from. For some, skydiving may be the spark to ignite their joy, for others it may be sitting down with a good book, or taking a stroll around the neighbourhood.

Express Your Creativity We are free to be creative with how we

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find our joy and express it. In fact we are called upon to be co-creators of our reality. We are not meant to be passively experiencing life, having it slip by us. We are presented each day with a fresh canvas upon which we are invited to express the uniqueness of our being, and each day we choose our own expression. Choosing positive thoughts allows us to stay in an energy frequency of joy. Our thoughts have been proven to affect our external environment. By focusing on peace and positivity, small groups of meditators have been found to reduce crime rate in the greater population.

Cultivate Contentment Positive thoughts not only affect the external environment, they also affect our internal state of being. Positive thinking allows us to cultivate joy and contentment, and according to research, allows us to enhance skill sets and resourcefulness. A couple of tools to help keep thoughts on the positive end of the continuum

BY KAREN GAY

are meditation, and play. Whether a meditative state comes easily or not, taking even five minutes a day to be in stillness can have a favourable impact on many areas of our life. Play is a concept that some may also find challenging. It is often regarded as an activity for children, but when the frequentness of a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s laugher is compared to that of an adultâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, the importance of play in adulthood becomes starkly apparent.

Live Your Joy! It is our inherent right to be joy-full even when life becomes challenging. Creating opportunities to bring levity to our day helps us maintain our joie de vivre. We are thus enabled to rediscover the awesomeness that surrounds us every second of the day, never allowing our bliss to escape us. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

tay ho

ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES

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TAY TAP

BAR & GRILL No. 20, Lane 50/59/17, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917 taytap.com Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with beer and cider on tap, this recently relocated venue next to Da Paolo mixes contemporary international comfort food on the first floor with live music and an often raucous atmosphere. Amazing West Lake views from their top floor terrace.

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ARTS WORK ROOM FOUR

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

BARS & CLUBS 88 LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029. 88group.vn 5pm to late A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170 hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from

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SIDEWALK HANOI

DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE 199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty.

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delivery from nearby favorites. Non-smoking, unpretentious, dog-friendly.

Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

MADAKE

CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665 or 0984 002181 With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal for those seeking a fusion of Western and Eastern cuisine. Famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, the ambient Asianstyle décor, weekend DJ nights and general atmosphere makes Madake a popular West Lake go-to joint.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho Open daily from 2pm. Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or

THE REPUBLIC

MODERN SPORTS BAR 7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116 republic.vn A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouthwatering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

BOOK SHOPS WEEKEND BOOKWORM

CHILDREN’S & VIETNAM-THEMED BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. While its main store is located in Chau Long, sharing space with Hanoi Cooking Centre, the second edition in Tay Ho specialises in children’s and Vietnamese themed books, as well as selling bao cap (Subsidy Era) furniture and a range of souvenirs and gifts. Open weekends only.

CAFES COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com

hanoi 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KUB CAFE

BIKING CAFE so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho kub.vn Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole bringing that’s become a favorite of the motorbike clubs. Does good on-the-table bia hoi and runs biking events.

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ

ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CAFÉ / TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment. Eclectic? Not a chance!

CLOTHING GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

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L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam.com Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

(Bamboo) and First (balance) bicycles and cycling equipment. Also rent bicycles (city, MTB or touring) and organise guided bicycle tours under the name Urban Discovery, with a 25-year experienced European mechanic as part of the team. Closed Mondays.

COOKING CLASSES

EAT

HIDDEN HANOI

COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE 68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BETTERWORLD

GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

COUSINS

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098 A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula.

DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA

BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, MiddleEastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE)

DON’S TAY HO

CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS DON’S TAY HO

CYCLING COLLECTIVE 29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156 thbc.vn A place for bicycle lovers, THBC is the official supplier of ORBEA, DEDA, MEKONG

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia.com Daily 11am to 11pm A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL

CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfec-

tion. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our

INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn.vn Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

J.A.F.A.

INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Set inside a newly renovated house with a large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.

NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semioutdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it.

SAINT HONORE

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this bak-

ery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da

THE CURRY BAR 32 Tay Ho, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 0033 Serving up an intriguing mix of Japanese, Thai and Indian curries, this small yet homely restaurant and beer drinking haunt has garnished a strong following. And why not? What works better than beer and curry?

THE PIE SHOP

TAKEAWAY PIES 2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 1507 thepieshophanoi@gmail.com Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style savoury pies and rolls. Available in three convenient sizes (mini, regular and large). Enjoy them hot as a takeaway, or frozen to keep for later.

ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE

VEGETARIAN / VEGAN 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam.com 8.30am to 8pm A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state — local, fresh, seasonal and organic.

EXPAT SERVIES MAID IN VIETNAM

HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3112 maidinvietnam.com Offering a licensed hire service for trained domestic and office housemaids, cooks and nannies. Courses include health checks, housekeeping, safety, basic 1st Aid, courses for external maids and household management for Vietnamese wives of foreigners.

FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS

TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

HANOI CLUB

COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com

HANOI OIS hanoinetball@gmail.com Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed ability, mixed gender club for adults wanting to enjoy team sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The club plays every Tuesday from 6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for more information

VIETCLIMB

CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS

ANNAM GOURMET

GROCERIES / DELI First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

KITCHEN ART

KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying

the peaceful West Lake view.

L'S PLACE

GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

NATURALLY VIETNAM

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for expats and Vietnamese.

PUNTO ITALIA

COFFEE MACHINES 62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available.

MEDICAL & DENTAL INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style checkups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

THE OASIS

ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart. com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

HOLISTIC HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER karen@a-roamingbodyworker. com a-roamingbodyworker.com Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well

INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

hanoi

THE THERAPIST TEEN ANGST

This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, advises on how to deal with difficult teenagers

Dear Douglas, My teenage son has become difficult and I am no longer feeling like I know what to do. My husband is telling me that I am over-reacting and that it is normal teenage behavior, but I am afraid of losing this boy whom I have always been close to and able to talk with. Since he began 11th grade he shows little interest in his family, his younger brother and sister, his dad or me. He spends a lot of time in his room with the door shut and, any chance he can, he wants to be out with friends. He seems to spend lots of time in the bathroom and becomes quickly angry if anyone disrupts him or says anything about how he looks or dresses. He has always been a good student, but since moving to Hanoi he is not really trying and doesn’t seem bothered by grades that are lower than he has ever had. His teachers say he is quiet, but he is not living up to his potential. The other day I asked him to sit and talk to me. Before I could even tell him what I am worried about he yelled at me and left the room. Is this normal? — Concerned Mother Hello Concerned Mother, What is normal? This is a question we often ask because it helps us decide if something is wrong or not. Of course, when we pause to think about it, we know that “normal” is subjective and relative… that there is no absolute standard for what is normal.

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Culture, age, personality, interests, etc. can all determine differences. We seem to want and need some standard by which we can determine what is normal and what is of concern. Another way to determine whether something is wrong or not, is to consider how we are feeling. If I were to make some assumptions about how you are feeling, it would include feeling confused — not sure how to connect to your son; frustrated that your attempts have failed; fearful that something is wrong or that you are losing the connection with him; hurt that it feels like you are being rejected or that your importance in his life is reduced; helpless and alone with these questions; worried that he is losing interest in school and his future may be impacted. You may also feel angry that your husband seems unconcerned and is minimising your feelings. All of these feelings may also spur the feelings of love you have for him and memories of feeling close and connected. The question becomes, what can you do with these feelings? The longer they are un-addressed, the more intense they become. It also creates a situation where it feels like your son needs to change in order for you to feel better. This is a disempowered position that burdens him and often leads to power struggles. Let me say something about power struggles with teenagers. From the time a child is born they are making more and

more decisions for themselves, and as long as their decisions are in line with their parents’ wishes, there are no problems. What often happens as they approach the end of adolescence is that they start to make decisions that are not in line with what their parents or teachers would want of them. At this point there is often an unanswered question. Whose decision is it? Your son may be showing you that he has power — the power not to cooperate, not to participate, to not respond to you and your need for him. He is showing you that these are his decisions. Don’t be tempted into using power in response — punishing, controlling his behaviour, intruding on his space or creating conditions that will meet resistance from him. I am not saying to abandon expectations or to have no limits. I would encourage you to let him know how you are feeling. Tell him your frustrations, fears, the loss you feel and the way that you love him. It is an invitation to reconnect and to remind him of your importance to him. Be willing to stand by and to gently and caringly observe. The important thing is that you recognize that it is your feelings that you want to change. Only you are responsible for them. I wish you well, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

hanoi to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

ba dinh

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS BARBETTA

ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB 18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh facebook.com/vaulthanoi The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind Mao’s Red Lounge and The Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime decadence sits in the gap between The Old Quarter and West Lake, bringing in a range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition to the scene.

BOOKWORM

BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

Đà n

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

COURTYARD CAFE 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh 9am to 5.30pm. Open every day Relax in a leafy courtyard, air-con dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the allday breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea.

MANZI

ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES GOETHE INSTITUT

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

Đinh T iên H o àn g

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boo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

n Yê

BA DINH DISTRICT

Trần Nhân Tông

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the Hanoi's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

FOODSHOP 45

MING PALACE

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bam-

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 10am to midnight

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

FITNESS & YOGA N SHAPE FITNESS

MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

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hanoi

MEDICAL BUFF EATING SAFELY IN HANOI

pr. 7 is World Health Day and the focus this year is on food safety. Living in Vietnam, this is a particular topic of interest as many of us are either eating street food or going to the supermarkets to buy the food that we consume every day. A lot of us wonder, “Is it ok to eat this? How do I know it’s safe? Dr. Brian, Medical Director at Family Medical Practice Hanoi, answers some commonly asked questions.

Dr. Brian, how dangerous is it really to eat from food stalls in Hanoi? Where we eat often determines the risk of developing food poisoning. So eating ‘on the street’ from many of the roadside restaurants can substantially increase the risk for all expatriate Hanoians. It can also be difficult to determine what foods actually caused the sickness. Most of the bacterial causes of diarrhoea and vomiting, such as salmonella, incubate from between one to five days, although staphylococcal

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infection from cream sauces and pastries can develop with in a few hours of ingestion. On the other hand, parasitic diseases may take one to two weeks to develop symptoms. Viral hepatitis A from contaminated shellfish may take up to ome month before symptoms are noted.

We have all suffered from mild stomach upsets. When should we seek medical advice? The classic symptoms of food poisoning are diarrhoea and vomiting, maybe with cramps and fever as well. If the diarrhoea persists for more than a day, is initially profuse within the first 24 hours, contains blood and there is either significant abdominal pain and / or fever, then you should seek medical advice right away.

What can I do to prevent or greatly reduce the likelihood of food poisoning? — Avoid raw or undercooked meat, poultry, fish or shellfish, raw or undercooked eggs or foods that may

BY DR. BRIAN MCNAULL

contain them, raw sprouts, beans and herbs, unpasteurized juices and ciders, milk and milk products. — Thoroughly wash your hands often. — Keep raw edibles away from other foods to prevent cross-contamination. You can kill harmful organisms in most foods by cooking them to temperatures between 145 F (62.8 C) and 165 F (73.9 C). — Refrigerate or freeze perishable foods within two hours of purchasing or preparing them. Do not thaw foods at room temperature, but defrost them in the refrigerator or microwave. — If you aren't sure if a food has been prepared, served or stored safely, discard it. Food that looks ‘ok’ and smells normal may in fact be unsafe! Dr. Brian McNaull is the Medical Director at the Family Medical Practice Hanoi, which also has locations in Vietnam’s other major cities. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on vietnammedicalpractice. com

hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com

elsewhere

A DONG PHOTO CO

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION

RECREATION KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL

BARS & CLUBS CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

VUVUZELA

MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm

FRENCH GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com/frenchgrill Every day 6pm to 11pm With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 10am to midnight

CAFES KOTO ON VAN MIEU

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HAM HANH

ARTSY CAFE 170 Doi Can, Dong Da The physical representation of arts, film and music collective, The Onion Cellar, this cafe with multiple areas is as left field as the people who created it.

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday

SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn

11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

rant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restau-

ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK

ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

NGUYEN CAU

ICE SKATING Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

X-FACTORY LASER TAG

HI-TECH USA

LASER TAG 77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com

DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261

PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL & DENTAL POTS ‘N PANS

SWIMMING POOL Landmark 72 Tower, Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com

128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732

FRENCH HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983 011081

VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

EAT ASAHI SUSHI

ELECTRONICS

LA VERTICALE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

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hanoi

BOOK BUFF ROMANCE

After a lot of subtle hints from fans of romance novels, Bookworm’s Truong has invited Marie, a prolific reader of that genre, to provide a few romantic pointers

n the US, Europe and Australia romance novels account for about 55 percent of fiction books sold, and since the publication of the Fifty Shades of Grey series, we assume that that percentage has gone up even further. According to the non-profit, Romance Writers of America, the main plot of a romance novel must revolve about the two people as they develop romantic love for each other and work to build a relationship. The novels usually have an emotionally satisfying and optimistic ending. Denigrators of the genre often refer to it as chick lit, while we at Bookworm like to satirize such faux intellectuals and call it chic lit. After all, who in their right minds would belittle authors like Jane Austen or Georgette Heyer? The genre blossomed after the 1930s, when Mills and Boon, and Harlequin published inexpensive romance novels, providing rich pickings for a slew of authors who were able to graft their writing skills into a prescriptive formula.

Romance and Astocrats Still popular are the novels that milk this vein with a financially not-so-well-off heroine being romanced by a rich and titled nobleman. The most popular of all time is Lord of Scoundrels (1995) by Lorretta Chase. Jessica Trent attempts to save her rather stupid brother Bertie from the supposedly villanous clutches of handsome Sebastian Ballister, the Marquess of Dain, who inevitably falls for her even after she shoots him early on in the piece. The most heart

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wrenching part is about Dain’s attempts to keep Jessica by his side, who he considers to be the most beautiful woman alive

Erotica Fifty Shades of Grey spotlighted female erotic lit, even though it didn’t get anywhere near the nitty gritty until about page 200. Its steamy porn after-effect has meant that well written titles from the past are being reprinted. One of these, after a 30-year hiatus, is Lace by Shirley Conran, which was often publicised as a feminist tract disguised as a bonkbuster. It is also accused of being the precursor of all of the modern sex and shopping sagas in which the heroine’s happily ever after scenario is often not due to a man. There are graphic sex scenes in the book, but it is far more notable because of its theme of friendships between four high-powered, wealthy women and their different careers.

Small-Town Trysts Sarah Morgan had another hit with book two about an attractive French chef, Elise. who works at mountain resort in Vermont. In this novel the delicious orthopaedic surgeon, Sean, returns to his hometown and to the resort which his alienated family owns. He is determined to have another fling with Elise and attempts to rekindle the passion they shared in a blissful, one-night stand the previous summer. Both protagonists have had past struggles with love and heartache — romantically and with their families — and

both are afraid to commit themselves to another relationship. Suddenly Last Summer was one of the bestselling books in 2014 and stands above most other small town romance stories because it manages to imbue the main characters with believable vulnerability.

Historical Bodice Rippers Another 2014 best seller was The Arrow by Monica McCarty. It’s the ninth novel in her Highland Guard series, set in Scotland during the turbulent border wars in the reign of Robert the Bruce. All of the novels have covers featuring bare muscled torsos of young warriors that are definite turn-ons, even before you get into the action packed and raunchy part. Gregor is the best Scots archer ever and the heartbreaker of young maidens throughout the craggy land. Cate is a young girl who has secretly been in love with Gregor since he pulled her out of a well in which she’d been hiding after a bunch of marauders raped and killed her mother five years before this adventure starts. Gregor has had his anonymity breached and has to go into hiding in Cates’ village. Cate recognizes his vulnerable side and sees him as a man who deserves to be loved for whom he really is and not as another notch on the proverbial bedpost. Naturally there is a secret from the past that threatens to tear them apart and this heightens the tension to heart thumping levels. For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com

Ho Chi Minh City BUSINESS BUFF // JOB SEARCH // BODY AND TEMPLE // ICE CREAM BOWL // TOP EATS // THE EMPTY WOK // STUDENT EYE // A WORLD OF GOOD

PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

HCMC

business

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES / EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS / RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS ACCOUNTING & AUDITING PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com

ADVERTISING & MKTG BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com

COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com

GREY GROUP

led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam

PURPLE ASIA

DENTSU VIETNAM AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com

PHIBIOUS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 3377 phibious.com An independent, creative–

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID 10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)

3925 2538 riverorchid.com

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM 4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn

GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES 4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 7305 0905

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prism.com.vn

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL 38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562. amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign busi-

ness group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com

HCMC CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com

ENDO 406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

EVENT MANAGEMENT CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS Tel: 0906 761190 centerpiece-vn.com info@centerpiece-vn.com Centerpiece is an independent event planning company run by expatriates that can plan any event from private parties, to corporate events to weddings.

EPICURE PARTY & EVENT CATERERS 30, Street 40, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6260 7172 epicure.com.vn Epicure is a fresh, modern and creative corporate and private event catering company that upholds traditional service values. The entire team constantly aims to provide superb food made only from the finest, sustainably sourced ingredients.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD 268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to make any kind of event a success.

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237

HAPPY HOUSE

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE 12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com

JONES LANG LASALLE 26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam. Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam

CREATION International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968 cushmanwakefield.vn

EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

cy and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHO USE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE 49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661 baoviet.com.vn

IF CONSULTING KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agen-

IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor, Continental Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, D1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IGLOBALASSIST Iglobalassist.com james.pruss@aol.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn

PRUDENTIAL 25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367 ten-pac.com A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

(08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

CITYSMART Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3526 8833 7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam. Tel: (08) 7300 7257 info@eishcmc.com www.eishcmc.com Located in the heart of Thao Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:

ETONHOUSE PRE-SCHOOL SAIGON 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2 Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse.vn/en/schools/ hcmc info@etonhouse.vn Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an InquireThink-Learn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children coconstruct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life.

Energized Engaged Empowered

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com The most established international school in HCMC, ISHCMC recently celebrated 20 years of success. A fully accredited IB World School, authorised to teach all three programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully accredited by both the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC), two of the most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different nationalities.

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BUSINESS BUFF SAFE HAVENS

BY SHANE DILLON

n 1998 the oracle of Omaha, Warren Buffett, made the following statement regarding gold. “Gold gets dug out of the ground in Africa or someplace. Then we melt it down, dig another hole, bury it again and pay people to stand around guarding it. It has no utility. Anyone watching from Mars would be scratching their head.” Gold has long been seen as a ‘safe’ investment, in particular in Vietnam, a country that has one of the highest consumption per capita of gold in the world. However gold has performed poorly as an investment in the last few years since it reached its peak in September 2011 at US$1,912 (VND40.2 million) per ounce. Now, there is a myriad of ways to invest your money, the sheer number of ‘financial advisors’ who call me in Vietnam guarantee me of this, but never seem to get back to me when I ask them for their qualifications to give financial advice. But I digress. With stock markets peaking at all time highs, where is a person to invest these days? This month I am looking for some unusual investments that have done particularly well over the last few years. Please note these assets are extremely illiquid and I am not endorsing any particular investment here.

that glorious period ending about 100 years ago,” notes Richard Mills, chief curator at Chalre Associates. In April, a Ming dynasty porcelain cup with a painting of a rooster sold for US$36 million (VND756 billion) in an auction. It was one of only 19 known to exist.

Stamps

Wine

At a 2010 auction, bond guru Bill Gross said rare stamps were “better than the stock market”. Gross has reportedly spent up to US$100 million (VND2.1 trillion) investing in stamps. It is a lucrative hobby: The GB30 Rarities Index, which tracks the performance of the collectibles market, rose 74 percent in the six years following the great recession as financial markets tumbled.

The UK-based Wine Investment Fund shows that the liquor has outperformed gold, oil, and the FTSE and Hang Seng indexes. The fund invests only in wines from Bordeaux chateaux, because they produce a limited quantity. And as it turns out, The Vatican is the world’s largest wine consumer. The US is in 56th place.

Guns and Ammo The ability of guns and ammunition to store value makes them an appealing investment option. According to ammo. net, the price of Remington .223 rounds rose 224 percent from 1999 to 2011 — well above the rate of inflation. Gun sales spiked after President Barack Obama’s two election victories, in anticipation of more stringent gun-control laws.

Chinese Ceramics China is a leading producer of ceramic art. The Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index forecasts a 45 percent increase in their value over the next five years. “As China was the world’s premier producer of ceramic art for most of the past thousand years, people are mainly interested in pieces from

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A gold mine in West Africa

Memorabilia From old movie posters to autographs of dead rock stars and shirts worn by sports stars, rare memorabilia can return a fortune for both people who already own it or buy them from other sellers. Because prized memorabilia is rare, prices only increase with demand.

Vintage Cars The value of classic cars has risen 456 percent over the past 10 years, the 2014 Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index shows. Cars like the 1958 Ferrari 250 GT, auctioned for US$8.8 million (VND185 billion) in January, have beaten all other luxury investments the index measured in the past year, rising in value by 28 percent. The value of vintage British cars and German collectibles has also increased consistently since January 2013, according

to Hagerty Insurance, which specializes in classic cars.

Rare Coins Coins have jumped 220 percent, the Knight Frank index shows. The scarcity of rare coins ensures retention of their value. “In the environment that exists right now, where the Dow is very high… most of the people buying rare coins… are people who are taking profits as a result of a semibull market… and want to reinvest some of that money into nondollar-based-type investments,” Terry Hanlon, president of the Professional Numismatists Guild, told CNBC.

Autographs As with memorabilia, autographs are alluring for their rarity and association with famous people. Paul Fraser, owner of a collectibles company with his name, notes: “There are an estimated 200 million serious collectors around the world, a figure that is predicted to double in the next 20 years. It’s an increasingly ‘aspirational’ investment, with leading collectors fighting over the best pieces. Many museums, such as the British Library, are buying up exceptional examples. And best of all: there is a finite supply and a growing demand for the most attractive specimens.” The price of an autograph belonging to Neil Armstrong jumped 1345 percent between 2000 and 2013, according to the PFC40 Autograph Index. Shane’s autograph value has not changed since he learned to write it. He can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

HCMC CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944 kidsclubsaigon.com Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP) 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788 admissions@issp.edu.vn Set in a purpose-built campus, International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 years. With 90 percent of their teachers having master’s degrees, they are able to promise a vigorous American curriculum while including specialist subjects such as music, art, sport and languages.

LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 lgkids.vn

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance.edu.vn Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:

(08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS ILA VIETNAM 146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 tas.edu.vn

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com

VAS

VLS SAIGON

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278 vas.edu.vn

INTERIOR DESIGN PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND REMODELING Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk) Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new colour in the living room? Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP

BAKER & MCKENZIE

27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup. co.uk

12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com

FRASERS LAW COMPANY

MEKONG RESEARCH

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

TNS VIETNAM

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com

MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com

MANAGEMENT TRAINING EMBERS ASIA 80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

NIELSEN

58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES DRAGON IMAGES Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, mar-

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JOB SEARCH CRACKING THROUGH THE GLASS CEILING

BY NICOLA CONNOLLY

n my 10 years living in Vietnam, I’ve been involved in numerous discussions on the workforce, how it has evolved and transformed to accommodate the country’s industrialisation. Occasionally the issues of gender equality arise. From the corner pho seller to the construction worker and powerful business leaders, women make up slightly more than half of the Vietnamese workforce. It is also interesting to note how they have tackled their career barriers over the years.

Vietnam’s Road to Gender Equality We often use the term ‘the glass ceiling’ when talking about gender inequality in the workforce. This is the barrier between women and the high-level executive positions they’re trying to get; prized jobs may be out of a woman’s reach due to various forms of gender discrimination. Over the past decade, Vietnamese women have started to crack through, as evidenced by the fact that Vietnam has the highest rate of women participating in the economy within the region. Women also work across different levels and industries, from the services sector such as banking, finance and trade services through to the manufacturing sector including textiles, footwear and processing, all of which have a high export turnover. On another encouraging note, Vietnam has one of the highest percentage of women at senior management levels. After Thailand, Philippines, Poland and China, in Vietnam 33 percent of people at board level are female. In addition, Vietnamese women receive increasing levels of support for their role in the economy. This is shown by the many prizes honouring entrepreneurs and enterprises on a national level, with some specifically for female leaders — the Vietnam Gold Star Award, the Golden Rose Cup, Vietnam Women Awards and so on. However, Vietnamese women still have issues accessing higher education and there is a lack of employment opportunities together with discriminatory attitudes and behaviours. Women continue to earn less than men across different economic sectors with a differential pay gap of around 80 percent to 87 percent of that of men.

Empowerment Even with all these obstacles, more and more women aspire to step up and go for the jobs they want. Yet, ensuring the inclusion of women’s talents, skills and energies — from executive offices to

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the factory floor and the supply chain — requires intentional actions and deliberate policies. While companies are encouraged to take part in gender equality measures by offering equal pay, childcare facilities and equal job opportunities, there are four things women themselves can do: 1) Stop being afraid. Being confident in their skills and abilities is the key for women to get ahead, and there’s nothing wrong in showing that you can do their job well, or even better than men do. There will be a time when you feel overwhelmed by the need to juggle work and personal life, but instead of giving up, try to speak up for the support you need — the response may surprise you! 2) Get a mentor. The barriers you’re facing today have likely been around for a long time. A mentor can help you learn to get connected to the information and people who can help you as well as be a great source of ideas for your professional development. 3) Get your seat at the table. The way to get ahead is to get noticed. You want people to see your competence. If you want to be in the top level, you need to build a reputation as the kind of person who fits that description of the top level. Therefore, it is important to speak up and contribute at the meetings, get involved in high-profile

projects (they are not ‘extra work’, but valuable learning experiences and an opportunity to showcase your capabilities) and develop plans to improve yourself. 4) Make your partner a partner. It is particularly difficult for women in Vietnam to pursue a demanding career while ‘having it all’ at home. Thus, it is necessary to share domestic responsibilities with your partner and while doing so, you need to stop controlling the way your partner does those jobs. Focus, instead, on the balance that works. Gender equality and the glass ceiling may seem at times more of a concept or topic for discussion than a real ‘thing’. However, with the number of Vietnamese ladies who have stepped up and are now successfully running large corporations like Vinamilk and REE, I’m starting to believe that in a near future a quote of Sheryl Sandberg’s: “There will be no female leaders. There will just be leaders.” Nicola Connolly is the general director of Adecco Vietnam and chairwoman of the European Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam. For more information on how women can break through the glass ceiling, follow the Adecco presentation here: http://www.slideshare.net/AdeccoVietnam/ adecco-vietnam-knowledge-sharing-breaking-theglass-ceiling

HCMC keting & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

office moves and pet relocations.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

CROWN RELOCATIONS

1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com

2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and Japanese candidates with experience studying abroad or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for many types of business.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo.com for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 www.asiantigers-mobility. com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08) 3742 5678 enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com

Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apart-

ment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

SERVICED APARTMENTS SCORE-TECH 260 TTH21, Tan Thai Hiep, Q12, Tel: (08) 3711 9958 A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a design team from Barcelona, Score-Tech controls the whole production process from producing fabrics and sewing to printing. Big and small orders of garments produced for all sporting needs.

AIRLINES AIR ASIA www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/ vn

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines. com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerair.com

VIETJETAIR www.vietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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HCMC

BODY

ating out is enjoyable and sociable, and provided that you choose wisely you can still eat healthily and relatively moderately with regard to health and fat loss goals. When I eat out I want it to be special, consequently I don’t eat out often. I am a firm believer that if you truly want to be healthy and lean, you need to prepare your own food. However, we are all social creatures, and to not eat out and enjoy the numerous restaurants the great city of Saigon has to offer would be sacrilege. So, how can you solve the dilemma of eating healthily, enjoying the taste and not consuming too many calories when you eat out? Here are eight tips for making your restaurant meal healthy and fat burner conscious while ordering restaurant meals.

1) Choose dishes that are not deep-fried. At the very basic level fried

foods are unhealthy because they are very high in bad fats and calories. The quality of oil used for most deep-frying is very poor. Vegetable oil, which has been hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated (trans fatty acids) can be reused or reheated numerous times, cutting costs but potentially killing us. Furthermore, deep-frying robs foods of nutrients and is associated with the onset of chronic health conditions.

2) Forget the fries.

Ask to replace fries with a portion of fresh vegetables. Vegetables, especially of the green-leaf variety, provide us with energy and detoxify our

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AND

TEMPLE

8 TIPS FOR EATING OUT

systems from harmful substances. Vegetables should be the “star” of every meal.

3) Avoid rich and creamy sauces. All contain high sugar, bad oil or fat content, and because we live in Asia, they most likely also contain MSG. Therefore, these sauces aren’t just calorie laden, they are inflammation promoting and destructive towards our neutral transmitters. Truly not a smart choice.

4) Replace dressings with fresh lemon or lime juice. Another great

option is virgin olive oil and dry spices to add a great serving of good fats that taste great! Alternatively, order dressings to be brought separately so that you can decide how much to apply.

5) Avoid the tempting pre-meal nibbles. These are usually loaded with fat and sugar, as well as salt to increase your thirst. You don’t need to fill up on ordinary bread when you’re paying good money for a meal. Simply ask for it to be taken away before you can even be tempted.

6) Don’t feel that you have to have dessert. If you are craving some-

thing sweet (which you shouldn’t — this demonstrates that you are deficient in certain minerals or vitamins, or eating the wrong food for your metabolic type) ask for a small piece of fruit. It will help satisfy the sweet craving as well as provide fibre and healthy antioxidants.

BY PHIL KELLY

7) Stop ordering drinks. A glass of

wine has between 125 and 200 calories, fizzy drinks contain 10 teaspoons of sugar, beer has estrogenic properties due to the fermentation of yeast within it and will dramatically halt your ability to burn stomach fat. Beverages can easily take your overall calorie consumption through the roof, making what could be a small meal an exercise in overeating. Alcohol also disrupts sleep patterns, putting your internal system under stress and therefore promoting a fat storing state.

8) Chew on this.

There is a correlation between speed of eating and Body Mass Index (BMI). The faster you eat the higher your BMI. Rushing down food has many disadvantages and is indicated as a common habit in obese and overweight individuals. Eating food slowly and chewing thoroughly has been proven to assist in weight loss by promoting the satiety process sooner. If you really want to enjoy eating out at the same time as tackling a health or weight concern, then look first at where you eat, and second at what (both the food and quantity) you eat. Third, how you eat. Where, what and how. Eating should be enjoyable and when following sound principles will foster great health, appearance and well-being. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763, at bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC

downtown

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com

BEER REPUBLIC

MODERN BEER HALL 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 0945 858034 facebook.com/BeerRepublic

BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202. bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

BROMA, NOT A BAR

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.

CARMEN

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 0908 033982

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.vn

GAME ON

SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.

HARD ROCK CAFE

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn

ICE BLUE

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

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Ham Nghi

District 2

Da o

Hu ng

District 10

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Ng uy en

Ca ch

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon.com If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

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Th i

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LAST CALL

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Ha i

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District 4

LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON

FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR 9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0396 lerendezvousdesaigon.com With such a meaningful name - the meeting point - this wine bistro boasts a relaxed, friendly ambience, perfect for unwinding with an after work drink or to enjoy time with friends. Reasonably priced, has a sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive old and new world wine list.

LEVEL 23 WINE BAR

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

MAY RESTAURANT & BAR

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375 mayrestaurant.com.vn Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting, international comfort food done well and a laid-back, lightbox-lit ambience. Has a downstairs bar area and upstairs restaurant. Popular with a businessy, international crowd.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese

District 3

Kh ai

APOCALYPSE NOW

FUSE

fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

Tr an

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

EXPAT / SPORTS BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2853 Subtle lighting, a pleasant ambience, a pool table and darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel of a drinking man's pub. A place to have fun, drink beer or spirits and get in with the party mood. Known for its 15 shooter challenge.

To n

2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)

DRUNKEN DUCK

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BARS & CLUBS

Binh Thanh

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MARTINI BAR LOUNGE BAR 3rd Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

Martinis with various combinations of premium spirits and other fresh flavours figure prominently on the drink menu at this classic Indochine-styled bar, all put together by Caravelle’s award-winning mixologists.

OMG!

FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

O’BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

PACHARAN

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6024 pacharansaigon.com Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the

wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PARK LOUNGE

live music and other types of performance.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR

LOUNGE BAR & CAFE Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com An elegant, ground floor venue in The Hyatt, perfect for social and business gatherings. As well as nightly live music, serves afternoon tea staples including warm scones with generous portions of homemade jam and clotted cream.

LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR 9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.

PHATTY’S

SHRINE BAR

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON RANGER

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559 facebook.com/saigonranger Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for

STYLISH LOUNGE BAR 61 Ton Thap Thiet, Q1 shrinebarsaigon.com Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere.

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn

THE CUBE BAR

HIP RESTOBAR 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798 facebook.com/thecubesaigon

wordvietnam.com | April 2015 Word | 157

HCMC

ICE CREAM BOWL ENJOY ICE CREAM BAR & RESTAURANT

njoy is the brainchild of Hoi An-based photographer Réhahn Croquevielle — you know, the guy who takes pictures of people covering their smiles with their hands. They’ve got continental comfort food, Tra Que-sourced Vietnamese dishes and Italian coffee on the menu. Réhahn’s photo gallery is in the back. But that’s not why we’ve come. We’ve come to try the ice cream — all 57 flavours. As Réhahn sits nearby, I sample the selfserve. He offers a casual blessing when I ask him for photo tips: “You have a camera, so you’re a photographer.” And I have 57 tasting spoons. Here are some of my favourites:

The Cream of the Crop *Rated between 0 and 3 scoops Pineapple — light, fresh, sorbet (1.5 scoops) Passion Fruit — light but tangy. Enjoy employee Lan opines, “I like passion fruit” (1.5 scoops) Lime — I find it’s a common problem with lime, it’s so light it almost passes without notice. Lan: “Customers who want a small body, they choose lime” (fat boy somehow wants 0 scoops) Vanilla — my first tasting after Réhahn snagged me for two mojitos, a “White

158 | Word April 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Ed Weinberg / interior shot by Réhahn Croquevielle

Horse” (banh bao/banh vac combo) and a super creamy egg cocotte that I dipped little breads into until my belt felt tight. Subtle and full, a real French vanilla. Getting off the sorbets is sublime (2 scoops) Choco Mint — I’ve been making an effort not to overwhelm the weaker flavours, but Choco Mint put me off the conservative route. I’m glad I did. I like Choco Mint (2 scoops) Choco Chocochips vs. Chocolate — Chocolate. (1.5 scoops to 1 scoop) ... vs Nutella? — Chocolate. (2 scoops to 1.5 scoops) ... vs Marou Chocolate Sorbet? — Marou Chocolate Sorbet. (2 scoop tie/Marou by a hair) ... vs Chocolate Chilli? — M***********!! (3 scoops, if you’re a badass) Affogato — okay, so my earlier theory was incorrect. Affogato overwhelmed the still-burning back section of my throat with a taste of ambrosia (or is that caramel?) (3 scoops) Caramel — there’s something called “Salted Caramel”, which I see in an unopened box. I’m glad this is not that, but also a little curious (1.5 scoops) Salted Caramel — shame on me. Salted Caramel is the best. Every ice cream should probably be salted (2 scoops) Salted Peanut Butter — my bad (0 scoops)

Coco Bella — I’m partial to ice creams with little flakes of something in them and, why not, fancy names (3 scoops) Hokey Pokey — it’s amazing. Réhahn’s brother (head ice cream guy) says that honey is the secret ingredient. He likes this, Salted Caramel and Cookies n Cream the best. It’s evidently a Kiwi favourite. “It’s like Salted Caramel is for French people,” says Réhahn. I’m left questioning my parental lineage (3 scoops) Mint — way better than Choco Mint. How have I never tried regular mint before?? (2.5 scoops) Cookies n Cream — devastating (2.5 scoops) And then I saw the other two fridges. No more. But they do have interesting flavours like Pandanus, Black Currant with Phu Quoc Pepper (I lied, I tried this one — 3 scoops), Soursop, Coco Coriander, Jameson Irish Coffee and etc. I’m going to drink five espressos now.

Staff Favourites Lien: Passion Fruit Thong: Salted Caramel / Strawberry Ly: Strawberry Rehahn: Red Berries — Ed Weinberg Enjoy is at 13 Nguyen Phuc Chu, Hoi An, and at enjoy-hoian.com

HCMC A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

THE OBSERVATORY BAR, ART & DJ SPACE 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

THE ORIENT

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook.com/vespersaigon A sophisticated yet downto-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the

great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

VINYL BAR

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

WONDER BAR

HOSTESS BAR 54 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0923 337070 Decked out in white, a huge rectangular bar takes up the main space making this the perfect venue for quite literally propping up the bar. Bar games and select-your-own music are part of the deal.

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772

Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BACH DANG

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707

BASKIN ROBBINS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn

CASBAH

MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7285 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

FANNY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704 saigongivral.com

GOODY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES

CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 guanabanasmoothies.com An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.

HÄAGEN-DAZS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

MAGONN THE CAFE 109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9672 magonn.vn Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything from drinks to bites. Coming with a crowd? The attic is a quaint little spot to fit a cozy gathering.

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

PLANTRIP CHA

TEA ROOM 8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung Street, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe.com.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows. The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

DEBENHAMS

ADULT & CHILDREN’S WEAR Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7592

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibi-

tions and gallery talks run every month.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

CASUAL & EVENING WEAR 85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004 Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs. The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA

BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm

L’USINE

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

SONG

ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com

T&V TAILOR

TAILORS 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com

VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines,

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TOP EATS ACACIA VERANDA DINING

he craziness of a Saturday night in District 1 is just a murmur eight floors below, as we take our seats in Acacia’s recently remodelled indoor/outdoor dining area. Gentle pockets of light illuminate cosy nooks of rattan and bamboo. Cool grey hues contrast with tropical greenery. I’m picking up a contemporary Malibubeachside vibe. It is intimate yet casual; formal, but without the formalities. With Acacia representing the Vietnamese branch of his Hollywood-based empire, Saigon-born, US TV celebrity and chef-to-thestars Jack Lee has come back to Ho Chi Minh City with a boom. A whirlwind of energy, Jack is all laughs and smiles as he takes me through his modern American menu. “Obviously I’m going to recommend everything!” he says. “But if you’re into beef… get the prime rib.”

The Signature Dish At just VND395,000, this is a US-imported, grass-fed organic masterpiece of tenderness and flavour. Slow cooked for eight to 10 hours, served with a parcel of vegetables and creamed potato, I’ll save you the catalogue of adjectives. Just know this: it may well become as famous as his ‘hundred-dollar egg roll’.

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Photos by Glen Riley

“Right now,” says Jack, “Vietnam is one of the best places to cook — a hidden treasure. If all the chefs in the States knew, they’d be over here in a heartbeat!” Through Acacia, Jack’s learning to fall back in love with the country he left as a child. Born in Cholon to Chinese parents, he was forced to leave at the age of nine by his then pregnant mother. “She threw me in a boat,” he recalls. “My father had just died. It was the 1980s, not the best time. Vietnam was not pretty.” A determined Jack wound up in the States and began cooking — really well, I assume — eventually landing a spot at the California School of Culinary Arts and later the distinguished Hotel Bel-Air in Los Angeles. And he’s famous, too, frequently popping up on TV cooking shows like the Food Network’s Cut Throat Kitchen. “I also just made the cover of Hollywood Weekly,” he says. “High-five!”

Pure Luxury Today, Jack’s LA-based catering company Chinoise Cuisine boasts a client list where for most, first names are all that’s required — Oprah, Priscilla, Angelina, The Sultan Of — and it was in pursuit of unadulterated Hollywood bling that his now legendary wallet-busting egg roll was born. Maine

lobster, French truffles, gold leaf, no expense spared. Thankfully, Acacia’s menu is much more affordable, though it receives just as much care and attention. Combining alcoholic reductions with Vietnamese herbs and fruits, Jack is sparking fresh life into modern classics. Ranging from grilled lamb chops and a smoky pork tenderloin roulade to seafoods, salads, soups and pastas, Jack’s menu is compact but eclectic. His foie gras with passion-fruit, dragon-fruit and kiwi (VND188,000) is a canvas of contemporary art — a rich, creamy appetiser propelled to new heights by the sharpness of the fruits. The perfectly cooked mahi-mahi (VND 295,000) looks just as splendid. Served with a soursop sauce, the subtle sweetness of the fish is given the space it deserves, while the glistening salmon roe garnish provides delicate bursts of contrasting saltiness. In short… divine. With his own TV cooking show now on air in Vietnam, another project in the pipeline for US television, and Tinseltown’s constant beckoning call, Jack’s a hard man to pin down. Fortunately for us, his showstopping cuisine is staying right here. — Simon Stanley Acacia is at 149-151 Nguyen Du, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City

HCMC posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org

NGUYEN FRERES

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1. (08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 69 Dong Khoi, Q1

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINH

HIGH-END FURNITURE Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com

HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 www.nhaxinh.com

BOCONCEPT

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

DANISH FURNITURE 68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn

DIABOLO

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm

EM EM

SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm

LUXURY FURNITURE IN VIETNAM Tel: 0909 042765 luxury-furniture-vietnam. com A complete and exclusive range of furniture produced by high-end furniture producers in Vietnam and also in Europe (Austria, Denmark, Germany, Italy, France).

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

EAT

ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant. com Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

BARBECUE GARDEN

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink

BASILICO

BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon

BIBI@ALIBI

AL FRESCO’S

5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Excellent delivery service.

BLANCHY STREET

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 barbecuegarden.com

3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631

tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

BLACK CAT

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers,

BUN CHA HA NOI

with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101

CENTRAL PARC BANH MI 7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New Yorkthemed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels. Excellent delivery service.

mail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

GANESH

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hot-

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326

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THE EMPTY WOK MANGO ICE CREAM

BY RICCHA ARORA

onth m s i ef, th desserts h c tyled orld of s f l w e nd s nto the a r e i g blog a delves d o A fo a Aror h Ricc

Photo by Francis Xavier

ango ice cream, homemade mango ice cream. It’s one of those musts for summer, a sweet treat to beat the escalating heat. Easy to make, economical and perfect for vegetarians, it’s not exactly Italian-style gelato. But with the freshness of the mangos, the sweetness of condensed milk and some added nuts, this ice-cream dish has a unique flavour not easy to find in Vietnam. The best part of the recipe is that it can be assembled in minutes — you don’t have to slave for hours. And the beauty of any homemade ice-cream recipe is that you can add anything to it — bananas, strawberries, even rose water and green cardamom. No matter what flavours you choose, you will have a wonderful treat to bite into.

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Ingredients 1½ cups of heavy whipping cream 1 cup of fresh ripe mango pulp 200 grams of condensed milk ½ cup of ground pistachio A few strands of saffron or 2 drops of rosewater Mint leaves for garnish

Method 1) Mix the heavy whipping cream and condensed milk in a deep bowl and whisk it using a whisk wire or electric hand blender for two minutes. Add the mango pulp to the mixture and again blend it for three minutes. Next add the saffron or drops of rosewater. 2) Now pour the mixture into an air-tight container and place it in the freezer for two

to three hours. Once frozen for a couple of hours, you will see the ice cream is still not firm. Add in the dried nuts or pistachio and mix well using a spatula. Adding the nuts in at this stage prevents them from sinking to the bottom of the ice cream. 3) Cover the air-tight container and freeze for six to seven hours. 4) Remove the ice cream from the freezer and leave it to sit for 10 minutes before serving — this will make it easy to spoon and serve. 5) Garnish with mint leaves and relish. Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy Kitchen —facebook.com/arorassassykitchen. You can also check out her website — arorasassykitchen.com

HCMC JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

KABIN

LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330

PENDOLASCO

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

PACHARAN

PAN-ITALIAN 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

MAY RESTAURANT 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com 7am to late Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn

NAM GIAO LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com

NHA HANG NGON

VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com A contemporary, casual, trattoria-style restaurant with al fresco dining overlooking the Opera House. Specialising in both traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine, the restaurant also features an impressive breakfast menu.

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HCMC

STUDENT EYE THE FIELD TRIP

istance doesn’t have to be geographical to be real. You could spend eight hours with your classmate, five days every week. He or she could be sitting right next to you in class, eating with you in the canteen, but that invisible distance will still be there to separate you. School certainly wasn’t going to fix this. But for some reason, our field trip to Hong Kong did.

All Under One Roof The word ‘compassion’ comes from a Latin root which means ‘to suffer with’. As I haul my 11kg suitcase up the never-ending stairs leading up to our mountain hostel (the shuttle busses weren’t available), shouts of encouragement from my classmates rang in my ear. For almost a week, whether we liked it or not, our days were going to intertwine in a small youth hostel on Mt. Davis, in Hong Kong.

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It was too close for comfort. If three’s a crowd, 36 is just plain frightening. We shared everything. In the shared bedrooms, kitchen, showers and bathrooms, we spent every waking moment together. Our goal was to live together, but not kill each other. In this shared space, we had to cook and clean and do everything by ourselves. We had nothing close to the kind of comfort we’d get when travelling with our families. But the experience wasn’t any less rewarding. In between the burnt scrambled eggs, the sweat, the mosquitoes, and the minimal Wi-Fi, we had fun. The setting was Hong Kong, but the main focus of this trip was us. And for once I wasn’t an observer, but a participant.

Field Trips, Our Salvation If you look carefully, you’ll see that high school is made of boundaries. There are the ones between teachers and students — and the ones between the students themselves.

During field trips however, all this is torn apart. Teachers become less like teachers but more like “people”. As for us, we have no choice but to be ourselves. After all, once your classmates have seen you with your messy hair and old pyjamas at 6am, all pretenses fly out the window. When I come back to school on Monday morning, the walls, albeit thinner, will still be there. But the memories of Hong Kong will make me smile at the corner of my mouth, because I know now that we are more than who we are at school. In retrospect, my only regret was that I neglected to bring my camera, and have only three blurry smartphone photos to show for my pains. But the warm and fuzzy feelings this trip gave me are the important thing, and they will last a long time. — To Thu Phuong To Thu Phuong is a high school junior at Alexandre Yersin French High School (Lycée Français Alexandre Yersin) in Hanoi, lfay. com.vn

HCMC PROPAGANDA

CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

QUAN BUI 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.

REFINERY

with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

SAFFRON

PAN-MEDITERRANEAN 51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised.

SAIGON CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SAN FU LOU

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

CANTONESE KITCHEN Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513 sanfulou.com Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further.

REFLECTIONS

SEOUL HOUSE

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality,

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221

shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

Vietnamese and Western cuisine offered from an impressive display of integrated show kitchens to serve guests in five different dining areas. Open for lunch and dinner.

TANDOOR SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

SORAE

SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689 soraesushi.com Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.

SQUARE ONE TOP-END INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE First Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com An atmospheric Ho Chi Minh City restaurant featuring simple and authentic

THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON 54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079 swisshousesaigon.com Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook.com/vespersaigon Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a

sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

YU CHU

TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA ANUPA YOGA

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Cfyc.com.vn

NUTRIFORT

GENERAL FITNESS 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8560 nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run.

SHERATON FITNESS

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

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A WORLD

WHEN NGOS GO GOOD

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

Campaign for Female Education (Camfed) has been one of the NGO success stories of the last 20 years

recently wrote — with some glee — about rogue NGOs. Now we’ll look at some good NGOs and reasons to be optimistic about development. The inescapable changes in the world are all around us. Traditional state-onstate warfare is at its lowest point in modern history. I welcome the academic arguments over soldier-civilian death ratios in conflict, but the point is we live in an overwhelmingly peaceful world. How, you ask, when all we see on the news is carnage and mayhem? Harvard professor (and Canadian) Steven Pinker notes that the number of people who have died due to state war, civil war and terrorism has decreased 50 percent since the 1990s. Further, these death rates have decreased 75 percent if you span the last five decades. Economists — long a favourite breed in this column — might nod to the Golden Arches Theory of Conflict Prevention, journalist Thomas L. Friedman’s mid-1990s dictum about McDonald’s restaurants and warfare — this has since been busted with Kosovo, Russia, Georgia and Ukraine. But really, Friedman was just riffing on Immanuel Kant’s 220-year-old essay, Perpetual

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Peace, in which the German philosopher wrote: “The spirit of commerce sooner or later takes hold of every nation, and is incompatible with war.” The problem is, we’re hard-wired to prefer bad news (it’s a survival thing that our brains are constantly scanning for danger). So we think the world is getting worse and Armageddon is, well, just around the corner. Yes, there are brutal injustices occurring right now in the Middle East (and elsewhere), but this is not global doomsday. It is a distortion the media is happy to oblige with daily howls of havoc.

Development Really Does Work But putting down our sticks and clubs has enabled us to focus on other things: success in human development. The UN says poverty has been reduced more in the past 50 years than in the last five centuries. The average Chinese person is 10 times richer than she was five decades ago and will live 25 years longer. This is due to rising standards of living, sanitation and medicine. This is also because technology needs to accelerate and grow exponentially, or fail. That steep curve shows in the number

of university graduates around the world. It has risen fourfold in the last 40 years for men, but has increased sevenfold for women. In Vietnam, Nu Cuoi (“smile”) is a nonprofit staffed by volunteer teachers running a night school in Tan Phu District for street children. These kids might not get to university, but they will learn how to read, write and have numeracy. Campaign for Female Education (Camfed) is an award-winning education NGO that trains local teachers with local trainers. Since 1993, over three million children have been supported to stay in school in five countries across sub-Saharan Africa. Deepening economic (and security) interdependence and cultural ties are just a few reasons for this confidence. So my earlier glee wasn’t pessimism about NGOs or their (in)ability to contribute to social justice; they do and it was about identifying aid fraud. Cynicism is a self-fulfilling prophesy and to me has always smacked of defeatism. It’s not terribly clever — or helpful — to bray on about endless dystopia. Me? I’m with the hamburger crowd. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth

HCMC SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

THE LANDMARK CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

HAIRDRESSERS VENUS BACCHUS CORNER

WINE SHOP 158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3306 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

DALOC

WINE SHOP 74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

MEDICAL & DENTAL ACCADENT

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4376 kimhai.vn

PHUONG HA

GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318

RED APRON

WINE SHOP 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0021

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm.vn

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VEGGY’S

GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

SALONS & SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 aquadayspasaigon.com

FAME NAILS SALON FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy,

includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

Q SPA & SALON 31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage.

Also offers hair styling and facials.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn

THE SPA Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com

FV SAIGON CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

VINIFERA

WINE SHOP 7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0860 viniferavn.com

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

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pham ngu lao

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / GALLERIES BAKERIES CRUMBS

BAKERY 117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

TOUS LES JOURS

KOREAN BAKERY 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350

BARS & CLUBS BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575

GODMOTHER BAR

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect

setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

UNIVERSAL BAR

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the name of that most special of sounds — the one from Jamaica.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

SPOTTED COW

CAFES BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fast-food style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge. Check website for movie locations and schedule.

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE 213 Bui Vien, Q1 facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

THI CAFÉ

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839

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MARATHON

LA CANTINA

BUDGET CLOTHING 147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019

PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com

THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311

JJ’S FISH ‘N CHIPS

FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De Tham, Q1

TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE 175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm

U.BEST HOUSE

TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com

ITALIAN / TEX-MEX 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT

NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB 40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 3777 monuvn@gmail.com Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This side-street Indian serves up some excellent fare at reasonable prices, with a number of Punjabi specialities to boot.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9780

EAT NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BURRITO REVOLUTION

SISTERS CAFE

VIETNAMESE/WESTERN 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 Light wood paneling, beige walls and locally themed artwork help to create a fresh and airy ambience in this café-cum-restaurant that is owned by the woman behind Chi’s Café. Also does visa extensions and motorbike rental.

TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES CHINESE NOODLES 195A De Tham, Q1 tamhao.com Nothing gets better than a bowl of tasteful broth and hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when it’s from Tam Hao. Hip interior design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BLUE DRAGON

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnam-

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

MARGHERITA

ORANGE

TEX-MEX / STREET STALL 124 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 714882

BAM SKATE SHOP

T&R TAVERN

CORIANDER

BABA’S KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929

themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

THE HUNGRY PIG

BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout.

WRAP & ROLL 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check out the second floor, junglein-the-wall décor at this particular branch. Unique and refreshing.

ZEUS

GREEK / KEBAB 164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

GALLERIES GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

district 1

BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

Binh Thanh

in h

an Tr u

Th i

ie n

Huu C cT ha n

Th an g8

Le Lo i

Ng .H ue

Ham Nghi

District 2

Hu ng

Da o

District 10

t Kie

Tr an

n Va

District 4

BARS & CLUBS BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 0906 780081

CHILL SKYBAR

TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

HOA VIEN

CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

Ng uy en

h an

Ng uy en

Kh ai

Ph n Bi e

To n

Ha i

Ca ch

in h

en Ti

District 3

an g

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Saigon’s first reggae bar located close to The Obser-

vatory on the other side of Pham Ngu Lao. Open late, holds a number of nights like Tropical Wednesday, Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies’ night and Underground Saturdays, all in an attempt to pump things up for the party seekers in town.

BOOKS LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com

CAFES (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews

in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003 sam.nguyen197@gmail.com A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

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HCMC THE OTHER PERSON CAFE COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3844 3295 saigongivral.com

I.D. CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

LE PETIT CAFÉ

FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2067

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

COBALT

ROOFTOP RESTOBAR Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullman-saigon-centre.com A tapas-style contemporary international menu in an equally modern chic space, Cobalt also has panoramic views over the city thanks to its 30th-floor location. Has a focus on wine matching and tasting. A hotel restaurant with a difference.

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

MAY RESTAURANT

EAT 27 GRILL

GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grill-style fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

CAFÉ IF

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

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INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1277 May-cloud.com Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

MONSOON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn

NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

QUAN UT UT

US-STYLE BARBECUE 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 facebook.com/quanutut It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA STAR FITNESS GYM

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions. re.com MEDICAL

& DENTAL

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

WE LINK

COUNSELLING 64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

SALONS & SPAS CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing services.

HAIR BAR

CONTEMPORARY SALON 68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108 hairbar.vn A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/hairbarvn.

SPA TROPIC

79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

district 2

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS DISTRICT 2 Nội

Thao Dien

i uớ

g H ư ởn

Hà

hQ Bìn

Ng uy ễn

Vă n

Lộ

Binh Thanh

Ngu

VOELKER

BAKERY 39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

BARS & CLUBS BAAN THAI

SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports. The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL 38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel: 01299 839314 facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill

Song Hà

Nội nh Song Hà

DISTRICT 2

With its seven TVs, full-size mezzanine area, pool table and aircon lounge space, BMV is the perfect place in District 2 to relax and watch the sports. Has live music on Thursday and Friday nights, and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in Thao Dien.

THE FAN CLUB

SPORTS BAR Ground Floor, The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, Q2 dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub 12 quality screens and eight draught beers, music spun by DJs, excellent burgers, quiz nights and barbecues. All in an attractive, contemporary environment.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

SAIGON OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

Hà

Lộ

í Thọ

Hà

Mai Ch

BAKERY 244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8392 The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien, Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries such as croissants, pain au chocolat, pain raisins, pizza dough, pates feuillete and much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Ho Chi Minh City.

Lộ

Não Trần

n Hoàng

BAKEUP ATELIER

Nộ y

Nguyễ

BAKERIES

Đi

ần Não

Hữu Cảnh

ền

ủ Xuân Th

y Xuân Thủ

Xa ễn uy Ng

ơng c Hư Quố

ng Hưở yễ n Văn

Binh Thanh

Th ả

CAFES AGNES CAFE

COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offers a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Now open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed and intimate.

CAFÉ EVITA

LAID-BACK CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 230A Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 3888

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES LITTLE ANH-EM

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

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HCMC SPORTS

VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

EAT CRAFTS & FURNITURE AUSTIN HOME

CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL

AND

RUGBY

024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com

SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn

ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com

gauloisdesaigon.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com

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CAFÉ FARE / TEX-MEX 11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable café offering up a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Open until 10pm.

FEELING TROPIC

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com

SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

BOOM BOOM BURGER

SQUASH

Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com

Contact Fred on 0919 709

CHI LAI

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors.com Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

AGNES CAFÉ

US-STYLE BURGER JOINT 2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 532378 boomboomburgers.wago.co A simple and tasty menu similar to that of the US’s InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom Boom has chosen to focus on the fundamentals of the perfect burger — sweet potato fries, jalapeno-infused beef patties and special avocado blends.

SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

LA CLOSERIE D’ELISA

FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT 52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 A tropical garden ambience

VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com

HCMC that is at once French yet contemporary Indochinese is the home of this table d’hote style restaurant and bar. Classic French cuisine at reasonable prices in the heart of Thao Dien.

LU BU

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE LOOP

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE 100%

MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES 26B Thao Dien, Q2 100percentvn.com

HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS 49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA AQUAFIT

AQUABIKING 65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 008985 aquafit.vn

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.

A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620 laholista.com Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

GROCERY & DELI 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Saigon’s longest running Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a special contemporary menu that brings together a fusion of European dishes, cooked up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook. com/Pendolasco2 for full menu and info.

TAMAGO

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTRE

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 540030

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines with a portfolio spanning old and new world as well as everything in between. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new tipple.

GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com

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HCMC

district 3

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

CLOUD 9

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS

LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE 224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948 031323

WOODSTOCK BAR

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3. Tel: (08) 39304075 metallicbar.com Showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered

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live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music starts at 8.30pm.

ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

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Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

SKATEWEAR / STREET 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BAM SKATE SHOP

BOO STREETWEAR 187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3

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INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 3398 ICE-CREAM PARLOUR 171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

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Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

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ACOUSTIC

Thao Dien Village, Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222

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FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

AUTHENTIC SPA

Sỹ

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District 10

MEDICAL & DENTAL

SALONS & SPAS

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District 1

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www.firstBIKE.com.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

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FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

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Binh Thanh

DISTRICT 3

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

Hoàng

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

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CONCEPT COIFFURE

Lý Ch ín

HAIRDRESSERS

EAT boo.vn CRAFTS

& FURNITURE

ATC FURNITURE

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 39326455 SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 38403946 atc-craft.com Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living space of your home? Come to ATC FURNITURE, you will find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly materials (water hyacinth & rattan). Our outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A hanging (hammock) chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long day at work.

REMIX DECO

INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

BANH CANH HOANG TY

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

HCMC PHO HOA

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

LAC VIET TATTOO 608 Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com

SAIGON BODY ART 135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com

SAIGON INK 26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO GROUP 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn

BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

JOIE DE VIVRE

WESTERN / FRENCH 292/10, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066 facebook.com/joie.vn

TATTOO SAIGON 128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943

massage spaces in Districts 2 and 3. Private and group yoga classes. Home visits available.

SHRI

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn

VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 vietchay.vn

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY

YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 michelle@michellelloyd.com michellelloyd.com American trained and licensed massage therapist and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and

BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com

HAIRDRESSERS YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791

MEDICAL & DENTAL STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children and adult.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908 453 338 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX

Trading Centre 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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HCMC DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

phu my hung

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL Đông yễn Ch N gu

CHEZ GUIDO

PANORMA FITNESS

Nguyễn Văn Linh

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AMERICAN EYE CENTER

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Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

DISTRICT 7 PHU MY HUNG

www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

BAKERIES

KFC

LOTTERIA Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

WILLY WOO’S Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon.com US-style chicken and waffles

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

EL GATO NEGRO

Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

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Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

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Nguyễn Văn

DOMINO’S PIZZA

INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS 206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel: 01654 058401 / 01629 546534 cezsaigon@gmail.com

Nguyễn Đô ng Chí

Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

HUNGRYPANDA.VN

complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

L’AMOUR

BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn

SAVOURE

BAKERY Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

SIMRANS

BAKERY SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg

BARS & CLUBS BANANA BAR

EXPAT BAR SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

PEACHES

CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.

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RUBY SOHO

CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900

THE TAVERN

EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7355 bellavitafurniture.com

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110; S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-creations.org

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org

EAT BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

(08) 5410 0822 nathaliesrestaurant.com

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304

MING DYNASTY

LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 5555

NATHALIE’S

THAI / VIETNAMESE S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:

VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL

GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not presently available in Saigon South sets this joint apart.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn. com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

FV HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969

MAPLE HEALTHCARE Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100 maplehealthcare.net Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.

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THÁNG 4

CƯỜI! NGHỆ THUẬT TẠM

Manzi và L'Espace tháng này sẽ kết hợp cùng nhau nhằm giới thiệu thế giới kỳ lạ và tuyệt diệu của Plonk & Replonk với buổi triển lãm Cười! Nghệ Thuật Tạm. Nổi tiếng ở Thụy Sỹ và nước Pháp láng giềng, Plonk & Replonk là với bộ đôi nghệ sỹ / hai anh em Hubert Froidevaux và Jacques Froidevaux đã khám phá những sử dụng bất tận của sự hài hước qua nhiều hình thức nghệ thuật: vật thể, điêu khắc, sắp đặt, hộp đèn, bưu thiếp, in ấn đồ họa. Mang đậm chất pha trộn giữa tính hài hước u tối và sự thông minh tinh quái, khắc họa sự mỉa mai và tinh nghịch. Plonk & Replonk thể hiện các chủ đề xuyên suốt như môi trường, toàn cầu hóa, giáo dục và chủ nghĩa tiêu thụ. Những tác phẩm của họ bộc trực một cách nhẫn tâm nhưng vui tươi và dị thường. Cười! Nghệ Thuật Tạm sẽ kéo dài cho tới 26/4 tại Manzi Art Space, 14 Phan Huy Ích, Ba Đình, Hà Nội.

09-11

THÁNG 4

THỨ TƯ

NGƯỜI SÁNG LẬP LORETO GIÃ TỪ VIỆT NAM

Giờ đây một thời đại sẽ qua đi — người sáng lập Loreto Trish Franklin sẽ rời Việt Nam. Ngày 31/7 này, bà sẽ giã từ đất nước mà bà đã gắn bó 20 năm, và cùng với đó bà để lại một di sản đáng yêu. Với Dự Án Loreto Úc Việt, bà đã chạm tới cuộc sống của vô số ngàn trẻ em khuyết tật có hoàn cảnh khó khăn ở đất nước này, và giúp giáo dục hơn 30,000 em. Việc bà sẽ chuyển về Úc sống sẽ lan rộng, vì vậy trước khi ra đi, AUSCHAM sẽ tổ chức sự kiện Fireside Chat Series nói về Trish, người sẽ giãi bày công việc cũng như cuộc sống của mình. Hãy tham gia và vinh danh người phụ nữ đáng chú ý này. Sự kiện Fireside Chat: 20 Năm của Cuộc Sống Đáng Yêu sẽ diễn ra tại khách sạn Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Lê Duẩn, Q1, Tp. Hồ Chí Minh, từ 17:30 đến 20:00. Nhất thiết phải đặt chỗ trước — để đăng ký, xin email về events1@ auschamvn.org. Giá vé là 700,000 đồng, và tất cả tiền thu được sẽ được quyên góp cho Loreto.

THỨ BẢY

DJ GRAHAM GOLD

LIÊN HOAN ÂM THANH HÀ NỘI 2015

Liên hoan nghệ thuật âm nhạc, Âm Thanh Hà Nội, một lần nữa sẽ trở lại với sự tham gia đông đảo của các nhạc sỹ và nghệ sỹ quốc tế lão luyện. Khởi động vào thứ Năm ngày 9/4 tại Manzi Art Space (14 Phan Huy Ích, Ba Đình, Hà Nội), mở màn bằng buổi trình diễn 'nhạc phim nghệ thuật' vào lúc 14:00. Tiếp nối chương trình sẽ là biểu diễn của các nhóm Sound Awakener (Việt Nam), Gaute Granli (Na Uy), Võ Văn Anh and Chris Brown (Việt Nam/ Mỹ) và Cluster of Sounds (Mỹ). Vào thứ Sáu tiếp theo, liên hoan sẽ diễn ra ở Hanoi Creative City (1 Lương Yên, Hai Bà Trưng, Hà Nội) chủ yếu xoay quanh nghệ thuật graffiti, chiếu phin tài liệu và hội thảo, với Đêm Nhạc Berlin sẽ bắt đầu lúc 20:00. Với thứ Bảy ngày hôm sau, liên hoan sẽ có mặt tại Trung Tâm Triển Lãm Vân Hồ (2 Hoa Lư, Hai Bà Trưng, Hà Nội) với màn trình diễn của Trí Minh và DEE.F (Việt Nam), Thylacine (Pháp) và Daniel Mariuma and Moti Saadia (Israel). Các sự kiện buổi chiều sẽ là phần thứ hai của Đêm Nhạc Berlin. Để biết thêm thông tin và đặt vé, xin ghé www.hanoisoundstuff.vn

Được mệnh danh là huyền thoại của dòng nhạc house quốc tế, Graham Gold sẽ trở lại Sài Gòn cho một đêm diễn duy nhất tại Cargo Bar. Với khả năng làm tăng năng lượng bằng âm nhạc sau những giờ làm việc ở thành phố này, Graham hứa hẹn một đêm "không dòng nhạc trance hay cổ điển". Tuy nhiên, nếu những nghệ sỹ như Nick Curly, Sidney Charles hay Riverside Dive mới chính là những lý do làm bạn tham gia, thì bạn nên có mặt tại sự kiện này. Với những gì đã diễn ra tại các lễ hội Glastonbury, Gatecrasher và Summerdayze, "Ông Vàng" mới thật sự là lý do đáng quan tâm nhất cho những người yêu thích nhạc sống. DJ Graham Gold sẽ biểu diễn tại Cargo Bar — 7 Nguyễn Tất Thành, Q4, Tp. Hồ Chí Minh — vào ngày thứ Bảy, 11/4. Đặt vé trước tại ticketbox. vn hoặc mua tại cửa với giá 220,000 đồng

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40 Năm Sau Ngày Giải Phóng Miền Nam Bốn thập kỷ đã trôi qua kể từ sự kiện lịch sử 30 tháng 4 năm 1975. Hoa Lê gặp gỡ hai con người mà số phận của họ đã thay đổi rất nhiều kể từ sự kiện đó

“S

ài Gòn lúc đó hoang mang lắm,” anh Nguyễn Quí Đức nói. “Rất nhiều người đã dọn nhà đi. Mình cứ đi loăng quăng trong thành phố, thấy nhà này dọn đi, nhà kia dọn đi, nhà này đóng cửa, nhà kia khóa cửa, mình bắt đầu rất lo lắng. Nghe tin chiến sự cũng rất buồn.” Tháng tư năm 1975, anh Đức khi đó 17 tuổi, vừa từ Đà Nẵng vào tới Sài Gòn. Bố của anh bị giam cầm ở đâu đó ngoài Bắc sau chiến dịch Tết Mậu Thân năm 1968 vì anh làm việc dưới chế độ của chính quyền miền Nam Việt Nam (Việt Nam Cộng Hòa). Mẹ của anh định theo chân anh vào Sài Gòn từ Đà Nẵng một ngày sau đó nhưng bà bị mắc kẹt lại vì không còn máy bay nào vào. “Ngày nào anh cũng ra sân bay hoặc trạm hàng không xem thử có chuyến nào trót lọt ở miền Trung về để tìm người thân, mà không thấy.” Trong khi quân đội miền Bắc đẩy nhanh cuộc

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tấn công và đưa xe tăng húc đổ cánh cổng sắt của Dinh Độc Lập, đám đông người dân miền Nam la hét để chen chân lên những chiếc máy bay trực thăng đã quá tải, tìm đường thoát khỏi Việt Nam. Anh Đức được gia đình cậu ruột của mình sắp xếp rời khỏi Việt Nam cùng với họ. Trên một con tàu chật kín người, họ đi tới Phú Quốc. Một tuần sau đó, họ lên một con tàu khác, chở khoảng 3,000 người để đi tới đảo Guam, rồi một tuần sau nữa, họ tới được bang Arkansas, Mỹ trên một chiếc máy bay. Anh Đức bỏ lại sau lưng bố mẹ, các chị gái thân yêu, và cả quê hương của mình.

Sau Ngày Sài Gòn Giải Phóng

Ngày 30 tháng 4 năm 1975, đó là ngày Sài Gòn được giải phóng. Ở trong nước, sau sự kiện đó, thành phố được đổi tên là Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. Những chiến sỹ của bộ đội đều cảm thấy

hân hoan, bởi họ đã giành chiến thắng, và quan trọng hơn, cuộc chiến tranh khốc liệt, kéo dài giờ đã đến hồi kết thúc. “Lúc đó, ý nghĩ đầu tiên của mình là sắp được trở về đoàn tụ với gia đình,” trung tá Trần Minh Hồng nói, năm nay ông đã 83 tuổi. “Ông nghĩ ngay cả những người chiến sỹ lái xe tăng vào Dinh Độc Lập cũng đều có chung một suy nghĩ như vậy” Ông Hồng tham gia cả hai cuộc chiến tranh chống Pháp và chống Mỹ. Cùng với đơn vị mình, ông đã đi tới những chiến trường khốc liệt nhất trong đó có cả Điện Biên Phủ và những chiến trường ở miền Trung. Kể từ ngày 30 tháng 4 lịch sử đó, anh Đức và ông Hồng đi theo hai ngả đường riêng của cuộc đời mình. Giờ đây khi nhìn lại, sau 40 năm, họ đều có những cảm xúc lẫn lộn.

Hành Trình của anh Đức

Khi sang tới Mỹ, anh Đức đã bắt đầu một trang

mới trong cuộc đời mình. Anh làm tất cả những việc bình thường nhất, từ việc trộn sơn tới đi giao bánh mỳ. Sau này, anh được đi học và anh chọn chuyên ngành báo chí. Ở Mỹ, anh dịch các tài liệu từ tiếng Anh sang tiếng Việt cho những người tị nạn từ Việt Nam sang, hi vọng mang tới cho họ những thông tin về Việt Nam mà họ không hề hay biết. Anh cũng dịch những tác phẩm, sáng tác bằng tiếng Việt sang tiếng Anh, để người Mỹ hiểu thêm về những mảnh đời ở đất nước Việt Nam xa xôi. Sau này, anh viết báo cho các tạp chí nổi tiếng như Wall Street Journal ở Mỹ, làm việc cho đài BBC ở Anh, và cho các đài quần chúng ở San Francisco. Anh muốn kể những câu chuyện về những con người miền Nam tổn thất trong chiến tranh, và cả những người mẹ miền Bắc đã mất đi những đứa con của mình trong cuộc chiến đó – những câu chuyện mà theo anh rất đáng để kể nhưng những người ở hai phía đối lập lại ít biết về nhau. Nước Mỹ đã mang tới cho anh nhiều cơ hội về nghề nghiệp. Nhưng trong sâu thẳm tâm hồn mình, anh Đức vẫn luôn đau đáu muốn trở về Việt Nam. “Anh không bao giờ thích nước Mỹ,” anh nói. “Ở cái tuổi 17, mình đã va chạm khá nhiều, đã nhìn thấy chiến tranh, nhìn thấy chết chóc, đã nghe nhạc, đọc thơ, hiểu biết nhiều cuộc sống xã hội, văn hóa. Khi anh tìm đến văn hóa khác không có những cái đó thì anh khó chịu.” Năm 1980, bố của anh Đức được thả tự do. Bốn năm sau đó, anh bảo lãnh cho bố mẹ mình sang Mỹ. Sau 16 năm xa cách, cuối cùng anh cũng gặp lại được bố của mình. “Nếu bố anh mất đi thì đã đành một nhẽ. Mình sẽ buồn, nhưng cũng sẽ vượt qua để tiếp tục

“Trong khi quân đội miền Bắc đẩy nhanh cuộc tấn công và đưa xe tăng húc đổ cánh cổng sắt của Dinh Độc Lập, đám đông người dân miền Nam la hét để chen chân lên những chiếc máy bay trực thăng đã quá tải, tìm đường thoát khỏi Việt Nam.” sống,” anh nói với giọng trầm buồn. “Đằng này, mình không có tin tức gì về ông trong một thời gian dài. Anh có cảm giác như mình đang đeo một cái gông trên cổ trong suốt thời gian đó. Mình không được phép vui. Được học bổng học về mỹ thuật cũng không dám học. Bố mẹ mình đang khổ cực như thế, làm sao mình có thể đi vẽ tranh được.” Năm 1989, anh Đức lần đầu tiên quay trở về Việt Nam. Sau đó, năm nào anh cũng về một vài lần và tới năm 2006, anh quyết định chuyển hẳn về sống ở Hà Nội. Hiện giờ, anh là chủ quán cà phê và bar Tadioto, một địa điểm quen thuộc của những người nước ngoài sinh sống tại thủ đô và cả người Việt Nam.

Sự trở về của ông Hồng

Sau ngày giải phóng, trung tá Hồng ở lại Cần Thơ và Sài Gòn trong vài tháng để tiếp quản cơ sở hạ tầng và tài sản do chế độ miền Nam để lại. Tháng 10 năm 1975, ông quay trở lại Hà Nội và tiếp tục làm việc trong bộ Quốc phòng. Cuối năm 1982, ông chuyển khỏi ngành và sau đó vào Sài Gòn định cư. Khi Việt Nam bước vào thời kỳ Đổi Mới năm 1986, ông Hồng đã nhận ngay ra những thay đổi mà nó mang tới cho người dân ở thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. “Trước đó, cuộc sống ở đây [thành phố Hồ Chí Minh] lao đao lắm. Người ta phải làm trộm, làm giấu hàng hóa. Khi có chính sách đổi mới, Sài Gòn phát triển theo hướng kinh tế thị trường thì mới phát huy được những thế mạnh của nó vì đã có kinh nghiệm quá rồi. Người dân cũng quen với nền kinh tế thị trường rồi, cơ sở vật chất cũng tốt hơn miền Bắc. Những mối quan hệ với ngoại quốc nhờ những người họ hàng là Việt kiều ở Mỹ cũng nhiều, tạo nên một dòng ngoại hối lớn đổ về thành phố. “ Ngày nay, nhìn lại sự phát triển của nền kinh tế Việt Nam và đời sống người dân đã được cải thiện, cả anh Đức và ông Hồng đều tràn đầy hi vọng đất nước sẽ trở nên thịnh vượng hơn, mặc dù vẫn còn rất nhiều việc cần làm phía trước. Khi những cuộc chiến khốc liệt đã lùi vào quá khứ, ngày nay những chiến trường mới lại đang thách thức Việt Nam: đó là nạn tham nhũng, những hệ lụy của việc phát triển không đồng đều, nguy cơ xói mòn những giá trị về văn hóa và lịch sử. Nhưng đối với những con người đã trải qua giai đoạn khó khăn nhất của Việt Nam ở thế kỷ trước như anh Đức và ông Hồng thì họ vẫn có một niềm tin vào một đất nước sẽ vượt qua được những trở ngại hiện nay.

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Những Ngăn Tủ Chủ đề về đồng tính, song tính và chuyển giới (LGBT) ngày càng được chú ý nhiều hơn ở Việt Nam, bằng chứng là cuộc triển lãm diễn ra tháng trước ở Đại Học Mỹ Thuật Việt Nam

rong cuộc triển lãm đầu tiên của cộng đồng LGBT ở Hà Nội, cảm xúc được thể hiện qua các hình người bằng giấy được xếp dọc trên tường. Chúng với những hình thù vật vã đau đớn hay đứng trơ ngang ngược được các nghệ sỹ lựa chọn cùng với các vật thể mang tính tượng trưng cao như: cùm chân, các viên thuốc đang rơi, những hình nhân đang nắm tay. Đó là những hình ảnh đầu tiên khi ghé thăm quan Những Ngăn Tủ (The Cabinet) — là một triển lãm được nhà nước chấp thuận và được tài trợ bởi một tổ chức phi chính phủ, kể về những câu chuyện của hơn 70 người đồng tính nữ, đồng tính nam, song tính và chuyển giới ở Việt Nam. Với đầy những kỷ vật, thư từ, quần áo, hình ảnh hằng ngày được hiến tặng, mỗi trưng bày là một nỗi nhớ hay những trải nghiệm khó quên. Những kỷ vật như hai lọ tiêu hình người ôm nhau, áo dài, những viên thuốc hormone và một con gấu nhồi bông bị xé rách tả tơi cùng chia không gian triễn lãm. Băng-rôn màu được đặt phía trước màn hình, đại diện cho các chủ đề: màu đỏ cho "bản sắc", xanh dương cho "nỗi đau", vàng cho "niềm tự

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hào" và xanh lá cho "chia sẻ". Khi mở các ngăn kéo trong mỗi trưng bày sẽ hé lộ những bức thư, những lời tâm sự được viết ra. Các cuộc phỏng vấn, tài liệu ngắn và tài liệu trong ipad tương tác cho phép khách tham quan khám phá thêm về cuộc triển lãm. "Về phần thiết kế [cho cuộc triển lãm], chúng tôi muốn giới thiệu những ngăn tủ được trưng bày, về những điều cộng đồng LGBT ngày nay muốn, cảm thấy hay đang có," Phạm Khánh Bình, một hỗ trợ viên của chương trình cho vấn đề LGBT cho iSEE — một trong các tổ chức kết hợp thực hiện cuộc triển lãm này.

Một Chuyến Đi Dài

Những Ngăn Tủ đã kết thúc ngày 31/03 vừa qua, nhưng hành trình của nó đã bắt đầu từ năm 2009 khi người phụ trách Đinh Thị Nhung bắt đầu thu thập các vật cho một dự án lưu trữ với Trung Tâm Sáng Kiến Sức Khỏe và Dân Số (CCIHP). Bảo tàng Unstraight ở Stockholm và Viện Thụy Điển cũng tham gia dịp này, và họ đã cùng nhau làm việc trong nhiều năm để cuộc triển lãm này được diễn ra. "Tôi nghĩ chúng tôi chỉ muốn chỉ ra sự khác nhau giữa những người LGBT và người khác,

Hình ảnh bởi Julie Vola

cũng như những điểm tương đồng. Việc kể về một vấn đề quá riêng tư thật là khó cho mọi người. Tôi muốn người ta, khi họ đọc, họ nhìn thấy chính hình bóng của mình trong những câu chuyện đó", Nhung nói. Là một người đồng tính là đi ngược lại hình ảnh vai trò được mong đợi cho hầu hết những người trẻ ở Việt Nam, và không cha mẹ nào muốn con cái mình lớn lên 'khác biệt' và 'không hạnh phúc', Phạm Huy Thái cho biết, một sinh viên Đại Học Khoa Học Hà Nội 19 tuổi — người đã tham quan Những Ngăn Tủ. Những câu chuyện kể về những mong mỏi của bậc cha mẹ, và những mong mỏi này dù tốt nhưng chúng đã gây tổn thương cho những bạn trẻ LGBT trong một thời gian dài. “Họ không thể sống cho chính bản thân họ," Thái cho biết. Cảm xúc của tác giả được thể hiện mạnh mẽ qua một hình người với bộ não bị nhốt trong lồng, xung quanh bao bọc bởi cây thường xuân, bên trong lồng còn viết chữ "tâm thần". Hình người này là tác phẩm của Tiểu Nhật, sinh năm 1991, anh bị gia đình mang tới trung tâm tâm thần khi họ phát hiện ra thiên hướng của anh. “Chỉ khi Nhật... thề sẽ không yêu người đồng giới nữa thì anh mới được phép về nhà," chú thích bên dưới hình người. Trong khi hình người của Tiểu Nhật được phép triển lãm, những vật thể khác lại trở nên quá nhạy cảm để trưng bày— ví như con dao lam, những cây kim tiêm sử dụng cho việc bơm silicone hoặc như giấy đăng ký kết hôn ghi tên hai người phụ nữ. Chính vì thế, những kệ tủ và những hộp trưng bày trống được đặt rải rác khắp cuộc triển lãm Những Ngăn Tủ — như là một lời nhắc nhở nhẹ nhàng rằng còn bao xa nữa quyền LGBT mới thật sự đến Việt Nam.

Đạo Mẫu

Một hộp kính nằm giữa trung tâm triển lãm chứa một bộ sưu tập trang sức lộng lẫy của Hảo Vũ, 30 tuổi, một bác sỹ và một nhà ngoại cảm sống ở Hà Nội. Đôi bông tai cổ và vòng hạt bẹt là của chú của Vũ, một nhà ngoại cảm theo đạo Mẫu. Chú của Vũ chính xác là một cô đồng, và Vũ thừa hưởng khả năng này từ ông. Ở đạo Mẫu, các cô đồng sẽ được các thánh nữ mượn xác trong các nghi lễ nhất định và đòi hỏi họ phải ăn mặc và trang điểm như nữ giới. "Đó đã là một chủ đề cấm kỵ trong gia đình tôi — không ai muốn nhắc tới ông, họ thậm chí còn cấm con cái không được tới thăm ông," Vũ nói. Người ta chấp nhận chú Vũ trong vai trò thể

hiện các thánh nữ, nhưng ở đời thật ông lại sống lén lút trong cô độc. Đạo Mẫu là một phần tất yếu của lịch sử Việt Nam, Vũ cho hay. Đó là một bước tiến táo bạo khi quyết định giới thiệu nó trong cuộc triển lãm, bởi vì nó cho thấy một số truyền thống cổ xưa của Việt Nam đã chấp nhận vấn đề LGBT. “Hãy để cho xã hội thấy rằng chúng tôi không phải là những kẻ bệnh hoạn, chúng tôi chỉ là những người bình thường. Nhưng chúng tôi chưa giành được điều ấy. Rất nhiều tổ chức đã đứng lên cùng nhau và sẽ làm điều đó trở thành hiện thật", anh nói — Annalise Frank Đại Học Mỹ Thuật Việt Nam nằm ở 42 Yết Kiêu, Hai Bà Trưng, Hà Nội

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The final say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Lotusland In his debut novel, David Joiner navigates the power imbalances between westerners living abroad and between westerners and Vietnamese â&#x20AC;&#x201D; in love and friendship, in the consequences of war, and in the pursuit of dreams

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“L

otusland transports readers far away from narratives about the Vietnam War. David Joiner takes Vietnam as many people have come to know it and shows us what it’s like today. A wonderful, important debut.” — Le Ly Hayslip, author of When Heaven and Earth Changed Places and Child of War, Woman of Peace “Tender, brutal, authentic, Lotusland captures the romance, disenchantment, and discoveries of expats living high and low in Vietnam. Joiner weaves a fine story.” — Andrew X. Pham, author of Catfish and Mandala and Eaves of Heaven, and translator of Last Night I Dreamed of Peace

From Chapter 1 “I thought you couldn’t sleep on trains.” Nathan awoke to find the pink-haired girl placing a bowl of instant noodles beside him, followed by two small bananas. She’d changed clothes and wore an old knee-length skirt and t-shirt with a faded Dong Ho painting of carps across the chest. Gold Chinese lettering cascaded down the side and sparkled in the clear morning light. It took him a moment to realize she’d spoken in English. Behind her, sunshine stabbed through mists that encircled the jagged mountains. “You brought me breakfast?” he asked. “You missed the delivered meal. This is better, anyway. Go ahead and eat, I’ll be right back.” Stretching to break up the stiffness he felt from sleeping all night with his back against the wall, he looked over the other side of the platform. Broken rocks lined the tracks, and between there and the near rice fields were ditches of stagnant water. It was a miracle he hadn’t tumbled off in the middle of the night. He pulled out his cell phone to see the time, and noticed that his old friend, Anthony, had sent him a pre-dawn message. “Big week coming up. Not sure how much time I’ll have for you in Hanoi.” The message was not what Nathan wanted to hear. While his trip north was the best chance they’d had in three years for a reunion, Nathan also wanted to ask him for a job. He’d been preparing for several weeks to approach him about this. Over the last few months, the focus of their correspondence had been on the money he owed Anthony. In his last e-mail, however, Anthony mentioned that his wife, Huong, wanted him to forgive Nathan’s debt. “Of course, you and I both know her idea is ridiculous,” Anthony had written. “I guess that’s just the not-yet-dead embers of a first love speaking.” The pink-haired girl returned with tea.

Steam peeled off the cup and thinly veiled her face as she set it beside the bowl. A Lipton bag bulged at the bottom of the cup. Swirls of orange rose from it like something being pumped. He was conscious of a pleasant tightness in his chest. “Thank you.” He reached for his money but she stopped him. “It’s my treat.” When he hesitated, she told him to eat before his food got cold. She sat next to him as he ate. “Your English is excellent. But I guess I shouldn’t be surprised, considering you’re going to America.” She only smiled and raised her head to watch the passing scenery. The breeze buffeted her hair; it fluttered about her eyes until she tucked it behind her ears. He imagined it airy and soft in his fingers, like the fringe of a silk scarf. As he thrilled over the prospect of touching it — absurd though the fantasy was, he wondered why she coloured it. The Vietnamese language had so many ways to describe the beauty of black hair, he couldn’t imagine why she’d turn it pink. The more he thought about it, he wondered if perhaps it were a wig. And why a wig unless she was hiding something, like a hideous scar or disease? But it was too morbid a thought; and besides, pink hair fit her. “I like your hair,” he said in Vietnamese. “It’s like candy.” She laughed. “Don’t make fun of me.” “I’m not.” “You speak Vietnamese like a Vietnamese,” she remarked, turning his earlier compliment back to him. “You must have a good teacher.” “I’ve never had one. They cost too much.” She looked at him skeptically. “Then you must have a tu dien toc dai: a long-haired dictionary. People say that’s the best way to learn.” He shook his head again, not wanting her to get the wrong impression. “Vietnamese girlfriends are even more expensive.” Again she laughed. “But you’re American. You never worry about money.” “That’s a common misconception.” “What about your girlfriend?” He had to think back to last night’s conversation. “I said maybe I had a girlfriend.” “Liar.” She smacked his arm. He peeled a banana. As he ate it, she peeled the other and set it before him in its own skin. He followed her gaze to the passing countryside. The land here was divided into paddies: a deeper green than the rice fields in the south. Far from the tracks, farmers stood knee-deep in the muck, like thin stunted trees, fixtures in an unchanging landscape. When he was done with the second banana he asked her name. But she either didn’t hear

him or didn’t feel comfortable telling him. The train’s movement gently rocked her as she continued to look into the distance. Her abstractedness allowed him to study the sharpness of her jaw line and the high bridge of her nose. When his gaze fell to her lips, where a tremor passed as if trailing a thought, it stayed there. “You’re from the north,” he remarked, trying to draw her out. The term he used, que huong, meant something like ‘home village.’ Its connotations were stronger than the English word ‘hometown,’ for Vietnamese roots ran much deeper than in America. She turned enough that he could see her eyes. In them was a kind of wonder. “How can you tell? From the way I speak?” “I didn’t guess it from your clothes and hair.” “Last night when you first saw me, you must have thought I was strange.” Until suddenly you left, he wanted to say, I thought you were a gift. But he couldn’t tell what she was after, so he tried to make a joke of it. “I thought you were a...” He stopped to recall the word ‘stowaway,’ but all he could remember was that it involved a lot of words. “... A deserter,” he said instead, hoping to make her laugh. He carefully pronounced the words, as with these, too, he almost never had the chance to use them. She smiled oddly and turned away again. You can purchase Lotusland on amazon. com, on Kindle or directly for the publisher at guernicaeditions.com

The Author David Joiner was born and raised in Cincinnati, Ohio, in the US. His earliest experience in Vietnam was as a volunteer teacher in 1994, when he became the first American since the end of the American War to live and work in Dong Nai Province. He has spent more than 10 of the last 20 years in Vietnam, making his home in such places as Saigon, Hanoi, Mui Ne and Bien Hoa.

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Dissecting the Double Standard:

“What makes the ‘dual price’ double standard so maddeningly baffling is how it seemingly disregards all logic and fairness by existing in plain sight — usually printed on a sign in a lovely san-serif font, and placed at the entrance of a major tourist attraction” 184 | Word April 2015 | wordvietnam.com

The Real Issue with Dual Pricing After years of forking out “foreign” entrance fees at dozens of tourist attractions around Southeast Asia, Karen Hewell digs into what’s really going on behind the double standard — and if it’s really as unfair as it seems

pend more than an hour in any major Southeast Asian city as a foreign national and you’ll find that within almost all of them prevails a certain frustrating phenomenon — the “dual price” double standard. In a region where prices are rarely fixed and bargaining is the status quo, having to spend a bit of extra energy sussing out what a product is really worth isn’t much of a surprise. But unlike the extra dollar spent on a bowl of noodle soup or the mystery charge on a restaurant bill, this particular phenomenon doesn’t just depend on sellers’ whims. What makes the “dual price” double standard so maddeningly baffling is how it seemingly disregards all logic and fairness by existing in plain sight — usually printed on a sign in a lovely san-serif font, and placed at the entrance of a major tourist attraction. Temples, museums, pagodas, historical monuments — there seems to be no type of tourist attraction immune to the effect of the “foreigner” fee. So while travellers and long-time western residents alike come to expect the extra dollar spent on breakfast every now and then, the sheer audacity of unapologetically publicising a double standard makes the process of forking over the extra dough at a temple entrance even more frustrating. The hubris of posting differing prices for “foreigners” and locals, though, does beg the question: where did such hubris come from in the first place? Surely if this practice were so unfair and fundamentally wrong, it wouldn’t be showcased in such an obvious manner. Is there really a sound logical explanation for this blatant discrimination? Are we missing something?

Paying Our (Foreign) Dues “The difference in pricing in [some Southeast Asian] tourist attractions comes from some attractions [being] seen as part of the cultural patrimony of the country,“ says long-time Southeast Asian resident and travel-industry veteran Tim Russell. He now lives and works in Bangkok, often considered ‘ground zero’ of the dual pricing phenomenon. It’s also where in recent years ever-rising fees for tourists have prompted more serious discussion about its financial validity. “Many feel like [these attractions] are ‘owned’ by the whole nation, and so locals

shouldn’t have to pay to get in. Plus, these attractions are usually maintained by the state using income tax revenues — so, effectively, the locals have already contributed to their upkeep. The same cannot be said of foreign visitors whose contributions are essential in maintaining historic relics.” This is the common defense for dual pricing at national monuments in countries like Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. With considerable amounts of taxpayer dollars going toward the maintenance of tourist attractions, many argue that it’s only natural that foreign visitors — who are not contributing to this taxpayer fund — should contribute a higher fee to visit. After all, these foreign visitors are likely only visiting places like temples or pagodas as a sightseer. In the meantime, locals return again and again for spiritual or cultural purposes — the reason that the building was constructed in the first place. Plus, more tourists means higher foot traffic — and for many attractions, the costs of maintenance increase exponentially with every new wave of tourists that enter. Without considerable funding for continued conservation, tourism would be a death sentence for monuments like Cambodia’s ancient Angkor Wat complex, where considerable efforts to shield archaeological sites from barrier-ignorant tourists have had mixed success. Were it not for the massive influx of foreign visitors during tourism high season, these monuments would likely require a significant amount less upkeep to prevent them from falling into disrepair. So, the extra fee seems a valid defense for a bigger tourist dollar sign. Right?

The Trouble with Transparency Unfortunately, actually determining just how much of that extra funding is going towards conservation — and how much is going toward lining the pockets of powersthat-be — is a difficult question to answer for most travellers. Even the biggest attractions like Cambodia’s Angkor Wat or Bangkok’s Wat Pho have little to no readily available information about how entrance fees are spent on maintenance. Consequently, determining just how much of those extra dollars are spent filling in the conservation gaps that aren’t covered by residents’ tax contributions is next to impossible.

The trouble is, transparency has never been high priority in Southeast Asia, and very few locally-owned and operated entities have raised the bar for financial transparency. Couple that with the region’s penchant for lining pockets and passing envelopes under tables, and the public will naturally be skeptical of how these extra fees are actually spent. Unless extensive and consistent evidence is provided to prove that extra dollars are funneled towards keeping national monuments in top shape, foreign visitors will continue to doubt the tourism industry they’re pouring money into.

The Vicious Circle But regardless of the skepticism, these ever-widening gaps in local and “foreign” pay scales aren’t likely to prompt an all-out boycott of travel to these national monuments. After all, travellers who catapult themselves halfway around the globe in search of sightseeing destinations are unlikely to skip out on Angkor Wat over a US$20 (VND420,000) fee. The unfortunate fact is that the people most skeptical of the double standard are also the most likely victims. Spending a few thousand dollars on plane tickets does tend to breed a sense of “make the most of it”, even if that means shelling out an unfair amount more dough than the locals. So, with Southeast Asia’s “dual pricing” double standard only on the rise, what’s the breaking point? “Tourism in many parts of Asia is still relatively in its infancy and […] short-term gain is prized above building a sustainable tourism industry,” says Tim. “Mature tourism markets have realised the value of building a reputation for being welcoming and honest. Many Asian destinations, however, simply see the dollar signs and don’t understand how tourists see it as a dishonest practice. They have no awareness of the negative effect it has on their tourism brand.” Perhaps enough bad press will prompt some changes in Asia’s dual pricing double standard. Maybe it really will take an all-out travel boycott. Or, perhaps, the rising tide of unfair fees will continue at such a rate that tourists are simply the frogs in hot water, unaware that the temperatures are rising. In the end, it will likely come down to a pretty simple question: What are you willing to pay?

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The final say

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THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War Chapter 7: Patriots & Mercenaries For the next nine issues, Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchett’s seminal account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s. This work was written in 1964 A Terrorist Squad My journalist-interpreter friend excused himself for having awakened me. My watch showed 10.44pm; I had been dead to the world in my hammock for a good two hours. “Three compatriots have arrived with a very interesting story,” he said. “Can’t it wait till morning?” I asked, and he replied that it was really an “exceptionally interesting story”, and the three were only resting for an hour before they took off again. So I swung out of the hammock and was guided to a little clearing where the tiny bottle lamps had been set up on tree stumps, the flickering flames lighting up the faces of three exhausted looking but triumphant men. Almost exactly three hours previously they had exploded a 25-pound bomb inside Saigon’s “U.S. Only” Capitol Cinema. According to the official account of the results, as I heard it over the Voice of America next morning, three U.S. servicemen were killed and 57 wounded. Two of the three before me were former peasants from the Saigon outskirts, the third a former factory worker, and I shall refer to them as No. 1, 2 and 3. No. 1, the worker, was the master planner and also organised the escape: “We had previously blown up the MAAG (Military Aid and Advisory Group) headquarters,” he said. “That was in July 1963. Another group had tried to blow up this cinema but failed because they tried to attack it from the rear. And still another group had exploded a bomb in a U.S. baseball stadium the week before. Our task was to succeed where the others had failed at the Capitol. We had decided to do this after the Lunar New Year ceasefire period, but when American planes napalm-bombed a big meeting in Cu Chi District on New Year’s Day, we decided to teach them a lesson. Also we thought

they should be punished for the coup they had just made in putting Nguyen Khanh in power. By that they wanted to show that they were the real masters in Saigon; we wanted to show that the people are still there too. So we decided to attack within the ceasefire period which they had violated.” As they described it, while Nos. 1 and 2 created a diversion at the side entrance, No. 3, the second peasant with the rather exalted face of a poet, walked through the main entrance with the explosive. “Because of the shooting outside, the Americans inside were alerted,” No. 3 said. “Two jumped on me as I entered and started to strangle me. Because I had the explosive in my arms, I could not

defend myself. But I managed to pull the detonator and as it spluttered the Americans were stupefied with fear, and ran up some stairs. There is just ten seconds after pulling the detonator before it explodes. I had time to put it down between the aisles and walk out, closing the grenade-proof steel doors after me just as the explosion took place.” “You intended to blow yourself up with the two Americans?” I asked, and he eyed me calmly and said, “Of course.” Looking at him, I thought of the descriptions in 19th century Russian literature of the poets and intellectuals who sacrificed their energies and talents, and often enough their lives, in trying to blow up the tsars. No. 3 was of that

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category. What pushes people to such deeds, I wondered, scanning as much of their tense faces as the bottle lamps would permit, their profiles etched against the impenetrable black of jungle night on which a newly born moon made no impression at all. There was silence for a moment, except for the monotonous cry of an intensely boring night bird that never ceased its metallic two-note cry between dusk and dawn. “There are thousands of militants like us in Saigon,” said No. 2, “ready to sacrifice ourselves at any moment, but we want to kill five or ten Americans for every one of us.” “Were there women and children in the cinema?” I asked. “We don’t make war against women and children,” blazed forth No. 2. “But what do they care for our women and children? In that cinema are only the pilots that go out day after day in their planes and blindly bomb and strafe our villages. Do they ask if there are women and children inside the houses they napalm? They bomb and fire on every living thing they see.” No. 1 explained that a 12-year-old sister of the one who had planted the explosive had been killed with 15 other children in the strafing of a school in Cau Xe. I was interested in knowing enough about their lives to understand what impelled people into such desperate ventures. No. 1 had spent five of the preceding nine years in Diemist prisons:

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“In front of my eyes I saw my comrades, the finest men that ever lived, tortured to death for no other reason than that they had been patriots in the struggle for independence,” he said. The hamlet of No. 2 had been bulldozed out of existence to make way for airfield extensions north of the city. After that he had worked as a coolie on an American military base. “I will never forgive them for what they did to our women,” he said. “I saw things that no human being should see. As long as they remain on my soil while I live, I shall take my revenge. For my own sister and my own compatriots, our young women violated, comrades tortured and massacred.”

Hatred of the Invaders Huynh Tan Phat had earlier explained to me that terrorist attacks against Americans were part of Front policy. “We have the spontaneous support of the population for such actions,” he said. “We attack only cabarets, cinemas, sports grounds, restaurants reserved exclusively for U.S. military personnel. They have to put up barbed wire and anti-grenade grilles, as the French did in their time. This helps to expose their real situation — that they live in mortal fear of the population. Of course it would be impossible to carry out such actions with a handful of isolated, individual terrorists, but it is possible with the support of the whole population who always find a means

of sheltering them. It has happened several times when someone has been hurrying away after such an action, before the police got on his trail, that an unknown person has pushed him inside his house or shop and hidden him; or pressed money in his hand and said: ‘Take this for a taxi.’” A couple of weeks after the Capitol Cinema incident, the Front broadcast a warning for Americans in Saigon not to take their wives and children to public places reserved for Americans. The terrorist attacks were for “men only”. In the days when France was involved in her “dirty war” in Indochina, there was no lack of American leaders who saw things in a realistic light. The late President Kennedy’s remarks on April 6, 1954, when he was still the “Senator from Massachusetts”, were realistic enough: “To pour money, material and men into the jungles of Indochina without at least a remote prospect of victory would be dangerously futile and destructive... No amount of American assistance in Indochina can conquer an enemy which is everywhere, and at the same time nowhere; an ‘enemy of the people’ which has the sympathy and support of the people.” This quote has become rather famous today when it is truer than when it was uttered ten years ago. But there was an observation equally apt made a year earlier by Adlai Stevenson, published in Paris (L’Intransigeant, May 21, 1953) after his visit to Indochina. Following some correctly gloomy appraisals of the situation, Stevenson, now chief U.S. delegate at the United Nations, commented: “One sees here in a startling way one of the major difficulties the French are up against. How to persuade the peasants in their rags that these Germans, these French, these Senegalese and these Moroccans are fighting for them against the Viet Minh, who after all are of their race and their country?” It was a good question then and a good question for Adlai Stevenson, Dean Rusk and President Johnson to ponder over today. How to persuade the peasants in their rags that these Americans, these Kuomintang Chinese, these Filipinos and Australians and other troops are fighting for them against the Viet

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Cong, who after all are of their own race and country?

American POWs Quite another view of the situation, both as concerns morale and an appreciation of what the war is all about, came from four American war prisoners whom I met in what was doubtless the beginnings of the first camp for U.S. POWs to be established in Southeast Asia. They were all sergeants first class and were captured at the Hiep Hoa “Special Forces” training camp on the night of November 23, 1963, when guerillas overran the camp, destroyed all its installations and made off with enough arms to equip an oversized Liberation Front battalion. Kenneth Roraback, a veteran of the Korean War with 15 years’ service in the U.S. army, was the only one of the four awake at the time of the attack, around midnight; he was writing a letter to his wife. “What actually happened?” I asked. “They called our place a training camp,” said Roraback, a dourfaced person with thinning hair and bushy eyebrows. “In reality, like a lot more, it was just a sitting target to be wiped out at any time. It was a well-planned, well-executed night attack, all over in about 15 minutes.” To my question as to what action he personally took, he replied: “I ran for the trenches.” “Did you take a weapon?” I asked. “There was no time.” “Was any resistance organised?” “It was impossible. Everything was burning, there were Viet Cong all over the place, streaming in over the ramparts, around all the buildings.” The other three — Camacho, a swarthy Texan; McClure, a Negro specialist on demolition; and Smith, a medical assistant

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and radio operator — were all in bed and all gave about the same account as Roraback. The four POWs had been on the move for months after capture, sometimes in sampans, mostly on foot, zig-zagging around, heading in all points of the compass until they had little idea where they were. They were now in a safe rear area. Each of the four sergeants assured me, in separate conversations, that they had been well treated and each expressed surprise at this. “My captors were considerate from the moment I was taken,” said Roraback. “I expected to be shot right away and I guess this showed in my face. When it didn’t happen at once, nor on the second day, I figured they were taking us a bit further away to shoot us.” “Why did you expect to be shot?” I asked, and Roraback looked a little confused.

“Well, I considered it normal,” he said after a pause. “Guerillas don’t have conditions to look after prisoners. But they saw I was afraid and did everything to calm my fears.” “How were you able to communicate? Did you have a common language?” “No, but they patted my back, waved their hands in a sort of friendly way in front of my face, stroked my arms and generally made signs that I shouldn’t worry.” Liberation Front policy in the past had been to give captured Americans a few weeks of “explanations” as to what the struggle is about and then set them free. Judging by the way the little camp, where I met the four sergeants, is organised, it seems many more American POWs are to be catered for. Release in future may be a matter of negotiations. Their surprise at seeing me coming out of the jungle could not have been greater than if

I had dropped down from Mars. As they had been out of touch with the outside world for months, I asked each if they had any special questions. I was astonished at their lack of interest. Camacho assumed a dead serious, almost tragic air when he asked if he could put one question. “Do you by any chance happen to know who won the world heavyweight boxing championship?” By chance I had heard the result over the radio: “Yes, Clay beat Sonny Liston in the 7th round with a technical knockout.” A smile spread over his face as he thanked me and marched off with an almost beatific expression. I asked Roraback what he thought about the war, now that he had had several months to think about it. After explaining that as a military man he had no right to discuss “political” matters, he said: “It’s all a mystery to me. I’ve no idea what it’s all about. Of course, as a legally constituted government, Saigon has the right to put down the guerillas and ask us to help them. But there are two sides to every question and the guerillas also have the right to try and overthrow the government if they don’t like it. But as to who is right and who is wrong, who will win or lose or what the whole thing is about, I have no idea.” The others replied similarly. They had “no idea” what the war was about or why they were really there. They all insisted on their purely “advisory” role. The question arises. Why do people who have no ideological interest in, or knowledge of, what this war is about, volunteer for such dangerous, unpleasant duty? For that, one has to look at their pay. Roraback’s basic pay of US$335.00 per month jumped up to US$858.40 a month while he is in South

Vietnam, and the other three each received from US$450 to US$500 per month extra for the South Vietnam service, which must make them about the highest paid mercenaries ever, in relation to their rank. Their Liberation Front opposite numbers, from rank and file troops to regimental commander, get 40 piastres per month — a little over one dollar at the official rate and about US$0.40 at the real, black market rate. But the difference between patriots and mercenaries on the field of battle reminds one of the dog explaining why he had failed in a hard race to catch a hare. “That hare was running for its life, I only for my dinner.” The Vietnamese are fighting for their lives, the Americans for their dinners, and that

means the difference between victory and defeat in the type of struggle being waged in South Vietnam. Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter often described as the ‘rebel journalist’ for his stories about the American War ‘from the other side’. After years of being at odds with the Australian government, last year the Melbourne Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame. Burchett was also the journalist who broke the scoop of the 20th century — the devastation caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing us to republish this work. Please note that some place names in this piece have been changed to reflect their modern-day spelling

wordvietnam.com | April 2015 Word | 191

The last call One of the longest of the long-term expats living in Vietnam, British-born Kiwi Mark Wildblood has been here since forever. Photo by Francis Xavier I originally came to Vietnam with… TNT Express Worldwide.

Back in 1990, Vietnam was… ‘young’, like me. We both grew up together and there was a wealth of opportunity in terms of gaining experience. But the money wasn’t so good in those days.

At the time, the expat scene was… interesting. There weren’t too many westerners and a lot of those were Russian and French speakers. The other 300 or so of us formed a fairly tight-knit community.

Saigon in the early 1990s was… unspoilt. There was hardly a neon sign to be found anywhere. Now it has jumped on the corporate bandwagon.

Hanoi back then was… all about

approvals to work while Saigon was the commercial capital. It took an eternity to get small things processed, but it was all worth it in the end.

My first band in Vietnam… was called Whisky

Tango. It was made up of a German, two Canadians, a Welshman and myself. Hence the name. At the time we were the only option for western rock ‘n roll music and quite frankly, we were a little loose. Hence the name of the band, which is a pseudonym for ‘White Trash’.

I got involved in Rock Fan Club because… I’d been introduced to students

who were very musically talented — they asked me to join their band. At the time they had begun to organise gigs with students who had had enough of only hearing Abba and Boney M along with Wonderful Tonight and Hotel California. They needed a bit of guidance on the setup of events, so my involvement was a spin off of developing our own band.

My work on the Australia Day celebrations in Vietnam… was very

rewarding. Initially I became a committee member to help with logistics and the importation of goods that could be used on the day. Then I got into the stage side of things. When I think back I laugh at the irony of it all. One year we brought out Bjorn Again to play at Australia Day in the old Saigon Water Park. It was ironic because Bjorn Again were an Abba tribute band.

I decided to start MWP Promotions because… music has always been a pas-

sion, and I’m living the dream. As a working musician, I also know how hard it can be for talented artists to make a living, so I wanted to try to help them and the music scene. The hard work comes before the event rather than on the night itself, and there is nothing better than seeing a project develop and witnessing the end result.

The role of MWP is to… provide work for

talent, and tailor it to make shows for corporate promotions and ultimately give the general public a wonderful musical experience.

Looking back… the last 25 years have been like watching a child mature. Vietnam is a developing giant.

The expat scene is… now very large! I prefer to focus on the Vietnam market for business, doing the odd expat gig every now and then. I have stayed here for so long because… Vietnam will never cease to amaze

me and surprise me on a daily basis, for both good and bad reasons. On the most part those surprises are for the good.

Vietnam has brought me… a wealth of

knowledge, an immense amount of frustration, a fantastic unpredictability and a beautiful family.

If I could change one thing, I would… uninvent EDM, despite the benefits it has brought to my life. Mark Wildblood is organising a gig at Cargo Bar for ANZAC Day on Thursday Apr. 23 with bands flying in from overseas. For more information about MWP email mailan@mwp.com.vn