Word Vietnam December 2015

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 12 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS và NICK ROSS

Contents Dec. 2015

64

58

96

THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / Crosstown Traffic

58 / The Cider Market

How to make it flow

011 / The Big Five

Events to look out for this month

BRIEFINGS 12 / Michael Tran

From big names to craft cider, the humble apple is entering the drinking scene 75 judges and lots of opinions. Our annual Word awards

EAT & DRINK

14 / Sophie’s Art Tour

96 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

16 / The Life of a Gallery Owner

98 / Street Snacker Hanoi

A guest column by Craig Thomas

20 / The Coffee Roasters

A cafe that roasts its own beans

2 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

The Vietnamese waffle: banh to ong

64 / The Wordies

Vietnam’s number one golfer The Saigon institution touches down in Hanoi

102 / Street Snacker HCMC

This month’s review: KOTO Van Mieu On the menu: pho chien phong

100 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Stoker gets the best mystery diner review we’ve ever run

102

Tel: Tel: (84.8.)

(84.8.) 5431 5431 1833 1833

www.theabcis.com www.theabcis.com

A happy and caring environment enables all young children to flourish.

Saigon South South Campus Campus 2 2 Saigon Early Years Years and and Primary Primary Early (Age 2 2 -- 7) 7) (Age

Recognised Recognised by by the the UK UK Department Department for for Education Education as as an Outstanding British School Overseas. an Outstanding British School Overseas.

Contents Dec. 2015

110

186

118

TRAVEL

HCMC

150/ Business Buff

104/ Jammu and Kashmir

34 / To-Do List

152 / Body and Temple

41 / Overscene

160 / The Gym Diaries

148 / HCMC City Guide

170 / Amazing Grapes

163 / Bar Stool

176 / A World of Good

166 / Coffee Cup

FINAL SAY

168 / Top Eats 1

180 / Skype Me

A trip across some of the highest passes in the world

110 / Escape the City

A weekend in back-to-nature Tri An

118 / The Motorbike Diaries Tripura, Mizuram and Manipur

HANOI

172 / Top Eats 2

In search of intimacy and meaning

46 / To-Do List

178 / City Map

182 / Dead Tired

53 / Overscene

COLUMNS

122 / Hanoi City Guide

130 / The Alchemist

134 / Bar Stool

132 / The Therapist

136 / Coffee Cup

142 / Student Eye

140 / Top Eats

144 / Medical Buff

146 / City Map

145 / Book Buff

4 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Kids need to be kids

184 / Don’t Feed the Monkeys

Intimacy, pencils, Bali and cameras

186 / The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War The final chapter of Wilfred Burchett’s account of the war in Vietnam

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 5

CONTRIBUTORS

This month we asked our team what was their favourite issue of Word in 2015.

JON ASPIN Staff Editor Definitely On the Streets. Going back to meet Bao two years after I first met him was awesome. When I gave him a copy of the magazine he was thrilled. I think we did a good job with that cover story.

TRUNG DEL Photographer I agree with Jon. I planned to do some personal projects this year and one of them was shooting people’s daily activities, and boom, I got an assignment to shoot A Day in the Life. I shot the King of Hoan Kiem lake and yes, I sent him a copy of the magazine, too. And on the Word Vietnam Facebook page, that article got a lot of ‘likes’.

HARRY HODGE Contributor I like the Fifty Shades of Expat... Having lived here just about five years, I’ve seen or met an example of each of these types, so it spoke to me.

NICK ROSS Chief Editor It has to be The Undiscovered Coast. The cover story took months to compile, but at the end it came together very quickly. And we got some really beautiful photos in there.

VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager On the Streets. It makes me believe beautiful stories can come from all backgrounds.

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor The Photography Issue. It was an honour to be able to bring together some of the greatest photographers in the country for a common vision. Shout out to everyone who contributed! Without you it would never have been possible.

NATALIA MARTINEZ Contributor On the Streets was my favourite so far.

It reached the heart of what I think is the real Vietnam; great stories and great photography. Also, when I wrote about seafood I was able to honour Van — the guy with the seafood stall. I printed the article for him and he hung it on the wall of his new restaurant.

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

JON ASPIN Staff Editor jon@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer julie@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter & Photographer francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

OWEN SALISBURY Staff Writer owen@wordvietnam.com

JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer (Hanoi) jesse@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

ADVERTISING TRINH BUI Sales Manager trinh@wordvietnam.com

CHAU GIANG Office Assistant giang@wordvietnam.com

DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com hai@wordvietnam.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com hai@wordvietnam.com

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to Sian Kavanagh, Vu Bao Khanh, Trung Del, Dana McNairn, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, George Burchett, Karen Gay, Noey Neumark, To Thu Phuong, Matt Dworzanczyk, Natalia Martinez, Vi Pham, Dara O Foghlu, Jim Cawood, Harry Hodge, Kieran Crowe, Dr. Brian McNaull, Craig Thomas, Kate Robinson, Paul Rowe, all our judges and David Legard

Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners.

JULIE VOLA Photographer ARhhh this is such a hard question for me!

I can’t just pick one, I know I am annoying!

Top four would be: The Photography Issue, Urbex, The Undiscovered Coast and On the Streets. I utterly enjoy being part of all these issues.

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© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604-77-1599-2

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CÔNG TY TNHH MTV NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THẾ GIỚI Trụ sở chính: 46 Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội Tel: 04.3825.3841 – Fax: 04.3826.9578 Email: thegioi@ thegioipublishers.vn Website: www. thegioipublishers.vn

CHỊU TRÁCH NHIỆM XUẤT BẢN: TS. Trần Đoàn Lâm Biên tập: Phạm Trần Long Thiết kế mỹ thuật: Bao Ross Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

LIÊN KẾT XUẤT BẢN VÀ PHÁT HÀNH CÔNG TY CP TM–DV–QC–TRUYỀN THÔNG DƯƠNG HUỲNH 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Q. 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordvietnam.com Website: www.wordvietnam.com

In 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cm In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú 71 – 73 – 75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Giấy xác nhận ĐKXB số: 2015-2015/ CXBIPH/12-129/ThG Quyết định xuất bản số: 624/QĐ-ThG cấp ngày 23 tháng 11 năm 2015.

In xong và nộp lưu chiểu tháng 12 năm 2015.

Mã ISBN: 978-604-77-1599-2 SÁCH CHUYÊN ĐỀ QUẢNG CÁO

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 7

Prelude

L

ooking over our Wordies awards this year, what we found striking are the places that are NOT included in our top 10 lists, or those that sit way down.

Striking, because many of those overlooked places, at least for us, would be worthy of the word ‘best’.

Take the restaurant scene. There are now some excellent restaurants in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and yet some of

business successful, you have to have people talking about it. It has to be visible, it has to sit in people’s minds, it has to be out there.

It’s like everything in life. To make something truly work, you or what you’re creating needs to be the full package; raw talent, whether it’s as a musician, a writer or an entrepreneur, isn’t enough. There is a reason why some people on this planet are successful, and it’s not just a result of limitless desire or driving ambition. To use a cliché, it’s because they’ve “got what it takes”.

So when you read through this year’s Wordies, it’s worth bearing in mind why one destination, bar or

restaurant performs better than another.

It’s not necessarily because every aspect of this place or business is ‘better’ or ‘worse’ than another, or that our judges have got it ‘right’ or ‘wrong’. It’s because, to dip into the clichés bag once more, those places tick all the right boxes; they are the full package.

Word has been going for eight years now, and we have been publishing for over 10.

We know how difficult it is to create that full package, and it’s something we always strive for. We hope that others in this country are doing the same!

Wishing you a great festive season! — all the team at Word Vietnam

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 12 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS và NICK ROSS

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The

them didn’t even get a look in. Take — nope, better not mention the name. It’s a well-known hotel restaurant in Saigon. The cuisine and decor here is first-rate, so good in fact that it’s potentially in the top three restaurants in the country. Yet this particular establishment, despite its excellent fare, only garnered a few votes. It was not alone.

So, what went wrong?

The same old story, that’s what went wrong.

People go out, set up and run a business — be it a café, restaurant, shop or garment factory — and then forget a key element. Marketing.

The ‘build-it-and-theywill-come’ mentality doesn’t work any more.

To make a place or a

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THIS MONTH'S COVER Design by DH Advertising

Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 11 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS và NICK ROSS

Everyone knows that the only magazine anyone reads is Word.

You’ve got something worth reading. — Anon Are you sure you’re still a magazine? More like a book,

Do you have these days! — CM any comments I know you’ve got competition online, but because you’re in print, that you would you’re different. Still way ahead of the pack. — CB like to air? If Do you think people are reading magazines again? I do. There’s about the feel of having paper in your hands that is no so, reach out something nice. It adds to the pleasure. It’s clever making sure you use such and touch us good paper to print on. — Anon at editor@ Visa Privilege wordvietnam. (November 2015, p186) com — we’re at If it’s any consolation — everyone who wants to get a visa to visit the USA has difficulties, not only the Vietnamese people. — JM your fingertips.

It’s not only America, the UK is bad, too. My wife has been rejected twice. I’m beginning to wonder if they ever give out visas in the first place — LH When my partner was rejected for a visa to the US, they gave the reason as a flight risk, meaning she would not return to Vietnam.

Crazy! — WB

8 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

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Inbox

You’ve Come A Long Way

The Wedding Issue (November 2015) That was a dark front cover you had this month. Whoa! Weddings!

That cover said it all. You actually made them seem interesting. — AJ I loved that wedding in Phong Nha with that Australian couple. What an amazing thing to do. It shows respect for both where they live and the people they live with. — AF

Vietnam's favourite Brazilian restaurant.

HES, S I D W H NE N OW WIT D A NEW FEEL. OK AN O L W E A N

Au Lac Do Brazil I HCMC 238 Pasteur, Dist. 3 Tel: (08) 3820 7157 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682 pr@aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist Tel: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330 pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil III Nha Trang 101 Trinh Phong Str, Tan Lap Ward Tel: (058) 351 6661 - Hotline : 0916451669 pr_nhatrang@aulacdobrazil.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 9

Talk Lead THE TALK

LEAD ARTICLE

Crosstown Traffic O

One cost of development is the traffic gets worse. So what’s the solution?

n Dec. 15, 2007, the wearing of a motorbike helmet became mandatory for all drivers of motorized two-wheel vehicles with engines over 49cc. According to the WHO, helmet usage went from one in 12 to almost 100% overnight. More importantly, it was an example of a well-enforced traffic law, one that was taken seriously not just by motorbike drivers, but by those charged with the enforcement.

Before that, and particularly back in the 1990s when cars were a rarity, Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi operated rather like a giant unofficial Monderman space, with apparently no traffic regulations, no road markings and no priority — a Kamaz truck was equal to a noodle cart, and everybody found their own way through the maze while hitting as few other vehicles as possible.

Today, new traffic laws and more importantly their enforcement are required to deal with the mounting congestion in Vietnam’s big cities, particularly Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. While according to the Ministry of Transport’s Bui Xuan Cuong, from January to September this year there were only 18 cases of heavy traffic in Ho Chi Minh City — a traffic jam is defined as a situation lasting for over 30 minutes in which “vehicles are at a complete standstill and unable to move at all during that period of time” — there is a growing sense that the traffic flow needs to be improved.

This is particularly important when you consider how the two cities are designed. Both of them have large areas of urban housing built around alleyways. Quite simply, neither city was constructed with cars in mind.

Increasing Traffic Flow So here are some ideas for reducing congestion. Bear that in

10 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

mind: ideas. Some have already been implemented or are being implemented. Others are possibly on the drawing board. Some are viable in the future, although not now.

Importantly, as with all regulations, they need to be enforced. They also need to be paid for.

1) Congestion Charges Let’s take the London model. 7am to 6pm, Monday to Friday, all vehicles driving within the city’s central zone must pay £11.50 (VND400,000).

In London it works because of the extensive public transport system. In Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City? Well, there are buses. But it’s certainly something to look for in the future when the metro systems begin operating.

2) Bus Lanes There are no bus-only lanes in Vietnam. Their benefit? During rush hour they make bus travel faster than travel by car. The reality? Most people in this country travel by motorbike and enforcing a bus-lane system would require extensive use of cameras. Once again, one for the future.

3) More Flyovers Those overpasses that have been built in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City over the past few years have worked wonders. Take the junction of Kim Ma and Lieu Giai / Nguyen Chi Thanh. From once being a congestion hotspot, the traffic has now eased substantially. Hang Xanh in Ho Chi Minh City has experienced equally positive results. More please!

4) Taxi Parking In Hanoi it’s not so bad, but in Ho Chi Minh City it’s a nightmare.

Taxis seem to park on almost any street and in any place they see fit.

In the centre of town this reduces

the number of lanes through which the traffic can flow along streets like Le Thanh Ton and Nguyen Du. So yes, designated taxi ranks. The likes of Mai Linh and Vinasun may complain, but it will be better for the traffic.

5) Double Yellow Lines How many times have you driven down a major street, stuck in traffic, to find that the reason is a car or a taxi parked on the side of the road, blocking vehicles? The answer is many. The solution is double yellow lines accompanied by fines for vehicles that stop where they shouldn’t.

6) Cameras at Traffic Lights To truly stop people driving through red lights — something that is both dangerous and also a cause of traffic build-up, especially during the rush hour — there needs to be cameras. Prevention. If people break the law, they need to be punished.

How many times have you found yourself in a snarl-up because of people ignoring red lights at a busy intersection?

7) Marked Lanes for Turning Right One cause of traffic congestion is a car, bus or truck turning right, causing motorbikes and bicycles behind to stop and wait. If lanes were properly defined for right-hand turns, it would make this process simpler and less dangerous for drivers of all vehicles. It would also prevent congestion and accidents.

These are just a few ideas of many.

And fortunately, there is presently a debate on how to make Vietnam’s cities more livable. But we need talk to transfer into action. And that action needs to be enforced. — Nick Ross PHOTO BY: KRHEESY

Big5 The

b

There are some huge events this month.

Fortunately there are some small ones, too a

1

c

The Ho Tram Open

Festival

Ham Tien, Mui Ne Dec. 4 to Dec. 6

Tiesto. Need we say any more?

Swedish duo Axwell

2 The Mui Ne Music & Arts

c)

Ingrosso will be playing Saigon this month

Golf fans can rejoice at the arrival of some top quality professional golf in Vietnam when the Ho Tram Open tees off this month. Added to the Asian Tour, the event is a feather in the cap of developers at Ho Tram and has got the nod of approval from the powers that be.

The biggest golfing tournament to have ever been hosted in Vietnam, some of the world’s best golfers will be taking part including global superstars Sergio Garcia, Darren Clarke, Geoff Ogilvy, Robert Rock and Vietnam’s number one, Michael Tran. Also on show will be some of the Asian Tour’s other top players.

Brace yourself. This one’s gonna be big.

For more info click on hotramopen.com

b)

a)

Golf star Sergio Garcia will be one of the rosters of professionals playing at the Ho Tram Open

The Bluffs, Ho Tram Dec. 3 to Dec. 6

We’ve been promoting the hell out of this, and for a good reason. The Mui Ne Music & Arts Festival promises to be to the south of Vietnam what Quest Festival has become to the north. And that adds up to one thing: potential. HUGE potential.

Three stages will be part of this three-day, Glastonbury / Burning Man-style affair, with a main stage, a reggae stage and a dance stage.

Live Art Saigon will also be on hand to paint live what we believe might be the largest canvas ever painted in

Southeast Asia.

This one will be good. And it’s cheap, too — VND200,000 a day or VND450,000 for all three. All you have to do is get yourself there and find somewhere to stay.

For ticketing, click on ticketbox.vn or go to the Mui Ne Music & Arts Festival 2015 on Facebook. The festival will be held at 283 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Binh Thuan

3

Axwell

Ingrosso

Long Island Castle, Q9, HCMC Thursday, Dec. 10 Brought to Saigon by Made In House, one of the world’s best known EDM duos, Axwell Ingrosso, will perform at the mystical Long Island Castle on Long Phuoc Island in Saigon’s District 9 on Dec. 10.

The Swedish Batman and Robin of the world’s EDM scene, the duo were originally two thirds of the wellknown act, Swedish House Mafia, an outfit that placed at number ten on the DJ Magazine Top 100 DJ Poll of 2011, and number 12 the year after. In 2014 the trio split and from the ashes, Axwell Ingrosso was born.

Signed to DefJam, following up their first album, X4, in June 2015, the duo released a new track, Sun Is Shining. It hit 3 million views on YouTube in one month.

Tickets start at VND950,000 per person and are available on ticketbox.vn/axwell/en

4

Tiesto SECC, HCMC Sunday Dec. 13

One of the world’s biggest DJs, a

certain phenomenon called Tiesto, will play Saigon on Sunday Dec. 13 as part of this year’s Budweiser Festival.

Hosted by well-known DJ Tuan Kruise, the event will feature a DJ battle between the top 4 BUDJs in Vietnam before the man himself takes to the stage.

This one is going to big, so big in fact that it’s being held at the Saigon Exhibition and Conference Centre (SECC) in Phu My Hung.

Early bird tickets start at VND550,000 and rise to VND3.5 million per person for the diamond table package. For more info and ticketing, click on ticketbox.vn/budweiserfestival/en

5

International Stand-Up Comedy Game On, Saigon and House of Son Tinh, Hanoi Dec. 16 and Dec. 17

In a month of big, big events, sometimes it’s nice to check out something a little smaller, a little more low key, and that is exactly what this month’s comedy shows in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City will do — take you back to a typical pub venue, the places from whence stand-up comedy emerged.

Headlining this month at Game On Saigon (Dec. 16) and House of Son Tinh (Dec. 17) will be Australian comic, Ro Campbell. He’s performed in these fine climes three times before. So, he not only knows the ropes, he’s managed to woo the crowds, too.

For more info turn to page 38 (HCMC) and page 50 (Hanoi)

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 11

Briefings Q&A

Michael Tran This month, Vietnam’s top golf professional Michael Tran will be playing for bragging rights at the Ho Tram Open, the first major golf championship in Vietnam

F

rom Dec. 3 to Dec. 6, Vietnam will hold its richest and most prestigious sporting event to date, the Ho Tram Open. Played at The Bluffs Ho Tram Strip, the tournament will see international golfers of the likes of Darren Clarke, Geoff Ogilvy, Thomas Bjorn, Sergio Garcia and Robert Rock play for four days on the Greg Normandesigned course. Among the roster of pros on this Asian Tour event is Michael Tran, Vietnam’s number one golfer and currently the country’s only pro. We spoke to Michael about his career so far and his hopes for this tournament.

breakthrough win, but I was prepared for it, so I wasn’t too emotional or anything.

Word: You learnt to play golf in New Zealand in 2002 when you were on a student exchange programme. When did you discover you had a talent for the game?

Where do you play most of your golf these days? What are your thoughts on the golfing scene in Vietnam?

You’ve been a pro since 2010. What challenges do you have to face if you turn pro? How difficult is it to be a pro golfer in Vietnam?

I would say practicing is the most difficult part of being here in Vietnam. We have great courses but there is only so much practicing and playing I can do by myself.

Travel is tough because I have to fly to all of my events, but I’ve got used to it.

Q& A Michael Tran: I started out just playing golf to fill up my weekends when I went to school over there. I didn’t really want to play it for a living until when I was about 16 or 17. I was very fortunate to start playing golf overseas when I was in New Zealand and California. If I had stayed in Vietnam and gone to school here, I would not have played golf because it is not a sport that kids play here.

How hard was it to win the Vietnam National Amateur Championship in 2008?

I was playing quite a few junior and amateur events while I was going to school in the US, so it wasn’t too hard for me to win the VNAC 2008, because of the low level of golf in Vietnam back then, and my competitors didn’t get as much exposure [to quality golf] as I did at the time. I was just happy to win a national title, but I didn’t think about it much after that.

What about the recent win at the Ciputra Golfpreneur Tournament? How important was it? Would you describe that as your breakthrough? If so, why?

It was an important win for me and for golf in Vietnam as well. I won on the Singha All-Thailand Tour before, but this win has more of an effect on the world rankings, so it is good for the juniors back home to see that it is possible for Vietnamese to go out there, compete at a high level and win. I felt comfortable all week playing that event. So yes, it was my

Other than playing on tour, when I’m at home I practice and play at the Vietnam Golf & Country Club (VGCC).

The golf scene in Vietnam is booming, for sure, but mostly with the older crowd. There are hardly any junior programmes or junior discount rates, so it is still tough for a kid to pick up golf clubs and play.

How important is the upcoming Ho Tram Open for the development of golf in Vietnam?

It is great because it will put Vietnam on the world golf map. People will talk about golf in Vietnam more, and I think it will help with golf tourism here.

What are your personal aims for the tournament? How important will it be for you playing in front of a home crowd?

I try not to put too much pressure on myself — I’m just treating it as another tournament and am taking it shot by shot. If I do well it will be great, if I don’t, I won’t lose much sleep over it.

You are presently Vietnam’s number one golfer. How difficult is it to maintain that position?

I think more of myself as Vietnam’s only touring pro. I would love to have my friend Nguyen Thai Duong come back to play so we could challenge each other for the number one spot.

For more info on the Ho Tram Open, click on hotramopen. com. The tournament runs from Dec. 3 to Dec. 6. Former Westlife star, Brian McFadden, will be performing as part of the event

Briefings Hanoi

Sophie’s Art Tour After successfully running for four years in Ho Chi Minh city, Sophie’s art tour finally comes to the capital

S

ince September, Fabiola Buchele from the website & Of Other Things and Bill Nguyen from Manzi have been offering a complementary circuit to the Ho Chi Minh City version of Sophie’s Art Tour, bringing a broad and perceptive look on Vietnam and Hanoi’s art history through the 20th and 21st centuries.

What you get is a very one-of-a-kind tour of Hanoi that is not just for art lovers but for all those who want to gain a deeper understanding of Vietnam’s modern and contemporary history.

Then and Now It’s 9am on a Saturday morning; I meet

14 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Fabiola at Tret Cosmo Café on Khuc Hao. I am the last one to arrive, and meet the four other members of our group: Jane and William are Australians in their 50s; Karla is 30 years old and works at the cultural programme of the Goethe Institute; Lucy, a 21-year-old American student, is doing a research programme on urban planning.

It’s a small group, as the tour can only accommodate up to 10 people.

The tour is very well thought out and for US$55 (VND1.2 million) it includes refreshments at the two cafés, entrance tickets, a minibus to bring us from the museum to the galleries, and a very passionate and knowledgeable guide.

While I am sipping on a café latte, Fabiola introduces the tour and the schedule.

Sophie’s Art Tour takes us on a journey in time and space, from the French colonial era, through the Indochina wars, and the postwar era, to Hanoi’s contemporary art scene; four chapters that will give us an insightful understanding of Vietnam’s art through the major changes of its recent history.

The first leg brings us to The Vietnam Fine Art Museum where we explore the first two chapters of our visit. With love and passion Fabiola shares with us her extensive knowledge, the result of seven months of intensive research, extensive reading and interviews with collectors and artists.

I discover for the first time the elegant and subtle works of To Ngoc Van and the silk paintings of Nguyen Phan Chanh at the Ecole des Beaux Arts de l’Indochine. We see the transition of Vietnamese art towards revolutionary romanticism and communist objectivism, to war propaganda and how the artists responded to the shift in politics. In 1975, as the country reunified, artists took on new challenges and a new group of artists emerged.

It’s the end of our tour in the museum; we get back on the minibus to visit Suzanne Lecht’s beautiful Art Vietnam Gallery.

We are lucky enough to be greeted by our host, who has been working on the local art scene for more than 20 years. At the end of the 1980s, Vietnam’s art market flourished, avant-garde artists arose and collectives started to form, developing

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

Food for Discussion

a creative thrust in the community, but they still face many challenges. Thanks to their great personal ties to current artists, Fabiola and Bill are able to connect us to the contemporary art scene in Hanoi with exclusive anecdotes.

After a privileged sneak peek of Nha San’s newest exhibition, we finish the tour at Manzi Art Space with a presentation of the most progressive and alternative art produced in the past 15 years. This is followed by a thriving discussion among the group.

This was a brilliant tour, the best introduction you will get to Vietnam art. It’s relevant whether you are visiting the city or living here. Definitely recommended. — Julie Vola Tours run from 9am to 1pm, every Tuesday and Saturday. For information on the Hanoi tour email sophiesarttourhanoi@gmail.com or call 01687 962575 / 0906 568338. You can also click on sophiesarttour.com

Briefings

Craig Thomas

National

The Life of a Gallery Owner In the first of a new series of articles by guest columnists, Craig Thomas writes about his experience of opening and running a gallery in Ho Chi Minh City.

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hen I first decided to open my own art gallery in Saigon in 2009, I thought I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting into. After jettisoning my 10year career as a lawyer, I had managed a friend’s gallery for several years, found a few new artists and sold my fair share of paintings. I was not an art history major but I had spent a lot of time hanging around in museums. How difficult could it really be?

I have since learnt that the job of a gallerist is both more challenging and more rewarding than I could have imagined. On its worst day it is better than a day spent poring over legal documents. There is no textbook or roadmap for how to build a gallery. Instead, it involves a process of intuitive improvisation that never really ends.

Not For the Sake of It A commercial art gallery is, by necessity, first and foremost a business. It is a difficult business to quantify, however, dealing as

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much in intangible notions like creativity, inspiration, trust and intimacy as it does in dollars and cents. Art must be sold to support the gallery and the artists, but success cannot be measured just by profits.

Striking that balance between showing what you feel is quality, compelling work, and the demands of running a profitable business is the gallery director’s foremost challenge.

While I had some concept of the commercial side of a gallery, I began largely ignorant of the curatorial side. I did not really know what a curator did until I hired one. When I did, she awakened me to the value of things like well-researched curatorial essays, professionally prepared catalogues and properly distributed press releases. Perhaps most importantly, she helped me understand that there is an unwritten code of conduct that professional galleries abide by when dealing with artists, with each other, and with collectors.

These rules are the backbone of the gallery system. Abiding by them gives a gallery the credibility that is essential for its long-term success.

As a gallery begins to operate, organising exhibitions and adding artists, the bulk of the focus takes a strong turn from the commercial to the curatorial. Galleries are essential because they do the work and take the risks that others do not. They scout for new artists, make the studio visits, ask the questions, curate the exhibitions, pay the bills, and do all the other things to help put artists in context and best flatter their work. While the internet and social media is changing the way art is introduced and projected, the physical gallery space remains the best location for new art to be shown.

The professional gallery offers continuity to artists and collectors, and is a guarantee of quality and authenticity.

Multi-Faceted Like any small business owner, the director of a small or boutique gallery has to wear a lot of hats. One minute you are the delivery man and the next you are a psychiatrist commiserating with a discouraged artist.

Perhaps the hardest thing is shifting from art mode to sales mode. There are natural sales people, but I do not think you find many of them working at art galleries. The hard sale might work in some industries but it feels wrong when selling art. You want to help someone find a piece of art they love, not convince them to buy something they might later regret.

Unlike dealers, galleries work with a finite number of artists over years and sometimes decades. The luxury of this long association allows you to often form deeply personal relationships with the artists you work with. You have to let them know you believe in them and they have to believe in you. There will always be disagreements, and both artists and gallerists can sometimes

be difficult people to deal with. But the reservoir of goodwill and trust built over the years helps you get past these moments.

The stereotype of the predatory gallery exploiting unwitting artists seems to me the exception rather than the rule. In my experience, most successful galleries are as much passion projects as they are cold-eyed business propositions. A good gallery’s success should be inextricably tied to the success — artistic and financial — of the artists it works with. Their success is the best measure of your own.

The Local Challenge Operating in the arts in Vietnam carries with it unique challenges. You have to learn to navigate the waters of what is acceptable content in this particular sociopolitical environment. The country’s basic art infrastructure and institutions are less than sufficient. We need fine arts museums that have the institutional credibility and technical capacity to attract travelling international exhibitions. The country’s fine arts universities need more resources so that they can teach more than the basics, and better help their students prepare for careers as professional artists. Greater unity is needed in the already modest domestic art scene and market, which is currently split between the two artistic poles of Hanoi and

Ho Chi Minh City. Crucially from a gallery perspective, Vietnamese contemporary art is still waiting for the rise of a class of local Vietnamese collectors necessary to help it achieve its real potential.

In spite of these obstacles, there is much to be excited about in Vietnamese contemporary art. There is a new generation of artists who have been exposed to the wider art world via the internet and international travel, and who are exploring new mediums and forms of expression.

They are working steadily to chronicle the great changes to their country and society of the past two decades. Communicating in a visual language accessible to all, many are addressing social and political issues that cannot currently be expressed in writing.

The good news for would-be collectors is that when compared even to other ASEAN countries, contemporary Vietnamese art remains modestly priced. While the most commercially successful artists’ works may sell for above US$10,000 (VND215 million), it is still possible to find great pieces by up-and-coming artists in the US$2,000 to US$5,000 range (VND43 million to VND108 million). Galleries and artists are cognizant of the difficult economic times and many are willing to be flexible in ways like allowing buyers to pay over a number of months.

Not So Fast A word of caution, though. Anyone considering opening an art gallery should steel themselves for a certain amount of disappointment. You will learn to dread the words: “Let me just check with my husband/wife and get back to you.” Any criticism of your artists’ work will feel like a dagger in your own heart. There will be some sleepless nights and lots of repetitive checking of your email in hopes that sale you have been waiting on will have been confirmed.

When it all comes together, having a gallery can be a glorious thing. The feeling that you have in some small way helped a talented person to reach their creative potential is nonpareil. There is the frequent chance to be enchanted by a new piece of work that you see on a studio visit to a young artist you just met. There are those wonderful moments when you call an artist to tell her that one of her pieces has just been sold. Or just sitting alone in the gallery with a freshly hung exhibition. These are perks that beat racking up billable hours in a law office any day of the week.

Craig Thomas Gallery will open a second gallery at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC in early December 2015. Hope, a solo exhibition by artist Pham Huy Thong, will open at the Calmette space on Dec. 11 and continue until Jan. 10

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Charity of the Month

“Baby tigers also need their mothers”. A poster used by ENV

Education for Nature Vietnam Putting the ‘N’ back into nature. Placing the ‘C’ back into conservation

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or city dwellers, it’s easy to forget that this country is essentially one big jungle. Look at any land use or vegetation map of Vietnam; see all those green bits?

Despite its rapid urbanisation, we continue to live in the tropics, and living in the tropics doesn’t just mean monsoons and mosquitoes, it means that a huge diversity of animal species live here too, though many wouldn’t know it.

The Shame File A baby macaque advertised for sale on Facebook

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For example, some people won’t believe it if you told them that tigers exist in Vietnam. Only just, but you can still find an Indochinese tiger, if you look hard enough.

Be prepared, however, because you won’t be alone; tigers are the medicinal treasure chests of Asia and hunted like nobody’s business.

Bears? This country has those as well,

though the Asiatic black bear is mostly exploited in archaic farms for their bile, which is another valuable commodity in traditional Chinese medicine. Charming. So much for those bears having a good time.

Rhinos used to live here too, happily grazing and minding their own business, until the last one was shot and killed in Cat Tien National Park back in 2010. That’s five years ago now. I don’t remember anyone changing their Facebook profile pic over that.

Working for Change Luckily, there are people who do give a damn about the critical situation Vietnam’s wildlife finds itself in, which is far from limited to tigers, bears and rhinos, but includes all of the incredible species native to the region.

Education for Nature Vietnam (ENV) was

A rhino killed in Kruger Park, South Africa

A pangolin confiscated in Hue that was later released into the wild

established back in 2000 as the first NGO in Vietnam for the “conservation of nature and the protection of the environment”. Their mission is to foster greater understanding among the Vietnamese public about the need to protect nature and wildlife.

One of their main focuses for change is to reduce consumer demand for wildlife products, which is supported by attempts to strengthen legislation and the enforcement of better policy relevant to wildlife protection.

They know they’re up against it. Never mind the domestic market, to Vietnam’s immediate north lies a population of 1.5 billion who have been treating Vietnam’s jungle like a supermarket for the last 35 years, keeping the trade in animals well and truly worthwhile for poachers.

Hotline ENV has a Wildlife Crime Hotline for the

A caged tiger discovered at Mau Chien Farm this August

reporting of anything that you might think is suspicious or goes against the fair treatment of rare and endangered animals. The toll free number is 1800 1522. At last count, ENV’s Wildlife Crime Unit had logged over 9,100 wildlife crime cases.

To continue their work, fundraising and awareness are vital. This month, the Song Hong Annual Half Marathon is being held on Sunday Dec. 13 in Hanoi. Dubbed the Run for Rhinos, it is hosted by Hanoi institution, The Red River Runners. This year’s race aims to bring attention to the crisis that rhino populations are facing worldwide as a result of the senseless poaching of rhino horns, used in traditional medicine and as a status symbol in Vietnam and China. — Jon Aspin For more details about ENV please go to envietnam.org. To get involved in the Song Hong Half Marathon, click on redriverrunners.com

Langurs kept as ‘pets’ at a home in Vietnam

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Briefings Hanoi

The Coffee Roasters One Hanoi café has taken the art of making coffee to another level

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et Decor has been my favourite coffee spot for a while now. I’m no coffee expert (more of an addict, really), but I knew the coffee was good, worlds above your usual ca phe den da. It turns out that Tet has teamed up with KOK Coffee, and has begun to roast its own beans, sourced directly from farmers in the northern provinces of Son La and Dien Bien Phu. Pete Wilkes of the TET Lifestyle Collection and Ashley Yang of KOK Coffee invited us to inspect their roasting headquarters, a few doors down from Tet Decor on West Lake.

It’s a small studio on the first floor of a villa, filled to the brim with burlap sacks of beans and coffee paraphernalia. When we arrived, Ashley and her husband Andrew were bustling around, preparing for a five-day coffee convention in Seoul.

The couple hail from Taiwan and initially moved to Hanoi so Andrew could work on the Metro project. When the financial crisis hit, he decided to switch gears. He went to the US to earn a certification with

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the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA), and is now the only SCAA-certified roaster in Vietnam. The pair teamed up with Tet in 2012, and decided it was important for them to source organic, fair-trade beans straight from local farmers, in contrast to most Vietnamese coffee’s artificially enhanced brews (which often feature additives like soy beans and duck fat).

The purity of their roast is evident from the start. My first taste was the Heaven blend, Tet’s signature roast. A mix of Vietnam Robusta and Columbian, Sumatran, and Vietnamese Arabica, this blend embodies the team’s passion for coffee. I savoured the nutty, bittersweet chocolate flavours as Ashley delved into their origins.

Partnership Andrew has made a habit of visiting their local farmers, staying on their land and teaching them how to improve their methods. This direct partnership has greatly improved the quality of life in these villages.

“My husband came back this Sunday, and

he saw that it’s different now,” says Ashley.

“Before, they didn’t even have a fan, but now they have air-con, and a TV. Three years ago, he said they served him only rice and vegetables, but this year, he said, they gave him so much meat!”

“For us, it was always about education, hygiene, and warmth for the kids,” adds Pete. “It makes a huge difference, just getting the kids to school. We built a bridge over the river, because that was the biggest reason why the kids didn’t want to go to school; they had to walk through the water. You can see subtle changes, year in, year out, and that’s special.”

With their clients made up mainly of expats who live in the area or businesses that feed expats, says Pete, “the longer you’re here, the more you feel that you want to make a difference. Knowing that you’re drinking coffee that comes directly from farmers and ethnic minorities, affects people in a very positive way.”

The team plans to hold regular workshops to educate coffee enthusiasts

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

about the roasting process and the flavour palette. Coffee beans are heavily influenced by where they are grown, and the atmospheric conditions in which they are dried and processed. This has inspired the brand’s line of international, elemental roasts. Among the varieties, there’s Earth, featuring beans dried naturally in the Ethiopian sun; Thunder, blending Arabica from rainy Son La and Robusta from Buon Me Thuot; and Fire, using beans from volcanic Terrazu in Costa Rica.

We closed the day with a special brew — a limited edition Yemeni roast. Watching Andrew carefully pour hot water from an iron kettle over the grinds, dripping into a glass decanter in front of us, I couldn’t resist another cup. He did this with the care and precision evident in all of his work, never speaking a word: a silent coffee artist at work. — Jesse Meadows For more info on KOK Coffee, click on facebook.com/kokcoffee.vietnam. Maison de Tet Décor, which sells the various blends, is at 36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Hanoi

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Briefings HCMC

THE TALK

HCMC

Startup of the Month J

By Own is a self-funded online platform that works with local artisans to create handmade, leather goods 22 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

essica Hilston is AustralianVietnamese, the founder of By Own (by-own.com) and co-founder of Women of Saigon. Hilston holds a Bachelor’s degree in Management and Marketing from Curtin University, and divides her time between Saigon and Perth, Western Australia.

The 27-year-old’s latest project is Women

of Saigon, a monthly networking event that aims to connect and empower Saigon females. With three successful events now under her belt, Jessica is in talks with several sponsors in order to capitalise on the achievements of past events and make it even bigger and better in future. The main problem seems to be locating a venue big enough to accommodate all the attendees.

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

Taking the Leap Jessica’s real passion, however, is By Own, the start-up she returned to Vietnam for in the first place. Taking the leap from traditional employment to entrepreneur can be scary, but Hilston is glad she finally summoned up the courage to do it.

“Like most entrepreneurs, I’ve had many business ideas,” she says. “This one in particular came about in July 2014. I was shopping around for a new leather backpack and I just couldn’t find the perfect one. Either the price was super expensive for a branded product, or the product was affordable, but the quality was lacking.

“I experienced this on more than one

occasion and I guess this frustration led me to start By Own to allow other people who have been in a similar situation to create their very own custom piece.”

So what exactly is By Own? According to Jessica, it is the creation of bespoke leather goods that fit a person’s “unique sense of style, the subtle quirk that defines who [they] are.”

Jessica remains coy when I ask her where exactly the leather comes from.

“We’ve partnered with only the very best locally-sourced fabric suppliers and artisanal tailors across Southeast Asia to help bring your dream to life.”

Like a seasoned journalist, she prefers to keep her sources under wraps, and can

you blame her? The Vietnamese start-up scene can be cut-throat, and ideas and sources are often — ahem — “borrowed”.

It’s not all bad, though. Hilston has a lot of positive things to say about the Saigon start-up environment. “There is a tangible energy throughout the start-up scene here, and there’s a real sense that things are just about to take off. Even foreign newspapers such as The Australian are beginning to sit up and take notice of what’s happening here.”

What does the future hold for By Own? “Leather by Own for Men will be launching before Christmas!”

Watch this space, gentlemen. — Kieran Crowe

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Briefing HCMC

The IT Professional

Some business ideas in this country are obvious. Others are less so.

Dominique Gallo took the ‘less so’ route. Yet delve further and it makes perfect sense

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hen you think of your personal IT needs in Vietnam, you tend to think of small computer shops, the kind of places that provide both retail and ‘after-sales’ service all under one roof, the joints that will sell you cheap, Chinese-made accessories rather than the real deal. If you’ve got business needs, then you’ll either be using the same one-stops to set up and look after your servers, or if you’re a larger entity, you’ll go for the big corporations, the FPTs of this world. Or you may even go more ad hoc and use this ‘guy you know’ who’s a friend of a friend and who you can call out when anything goes wrong.

Enter Frenchman Dominique Gallo and his company, ITM. Where many a foreigner has come to Vietnam and found an area in which to successfully do business, Dominique has thrust himself into the IT industry. Software development? No. Quite the opposite.

Instead, he’s trodden in a market where other entrepreneurial angels fear to tread.

Dominique is doing what those one-stop IT shops do, “supporting and solving any problem people can face with an IT device”.

But, he’s doing it better.

For private customers, ITM repairs PCs or laptops, provides Wi-Fi, fixes software, deletes viruses and so on. Your standard kind of computer ‘needs’ fare, except that with a team of English-speaking staff, it’s easier when it comes to language barriers. They also go out of their way to stop you ‘losing

all your data’, a standard and frustrating occurrence in Vietnam. For businesses, they provide IT services such as maintenance, installation, networks, software and IT solutions. They also do IT solution work.

There are three keys: quality, customer service and size.

That Point of Difference “In Vietnam you have to choose between small computer shops or big corporations.

There is nothing in the middle,” explains Dominique. “Many companies, especially medium-sized ones, have ‘medium needs’.

That is [one way in which] we differ from this small computer shops.

“The other problem is trust. When you have important and strategic data, you can’t give it to a company or shop that you don’t trust 100 percent. With 17 years experience [in the industry], I have a clear understanding of managers’ and companies’ expectations for their IT system and the confidentiality of their data. [We provide] the same quality of service that you would find in Europe or the West.”

He adds: “We offer professionalism, quality, commitment, advice, complex analysis; we ensure immediate answers, fast and accurate to our customers’ requirements.

We always focus on quality and we refuse to sacrifice it for the benefit of low costs.”

It’s a strategy that has worked. Founded in 2009, at the time ITM was comprised of just two people — Dominique and an assistant. They now have 40 staff and two

offices: one in Ho Chi Minh City and one in Hanoi. Besides their ‘private’ customers, ITM’s clients include the likes of Uma, Renault, CMI, Lazada, ACC, Snap and Alstom as well as businesses working in insurance, law, tourism and manufacturing.

They’ve also teamed up with Iknow, a Ho Chi Minh City-based business that is to Apple devices what ITM is to the PC. More recently, in their District 2 offices on Quoc Huong, ITM has opened up a retail outlet for PC products and accessories.

Who Said It Was Easy?

Success hasn’t been straightforward — it never is — and one of Dominique’s key goals has been to create a common vision among his staff, a customer-centred approach and a belief in working together to make the company grow. It’s worked. Annual staff turnover is only 15 percent.

However, for potential and existing entrepreneurs he has some advice.

“You have to be aware of the cultural differences here before starting any business as adaptation can be complicated,” he explains. “It is also necessary to choose your business partners carefully and take care over the people you work with. You need ambition, a strong taste for a challenge and a long-term vision to be successful here. More than anything, don’t be afraid to take risks.”

For more info on ITM pop into their shop at Fifth Floor, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC or click on itm-computercare.vn

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Briefings Behind the Quest Hanoi

When you’re attending a festival as a photojournalist, do you document or do you experience?

“H

ow was your Quest?” was the most common greeting come Sunday night, after most of the partiers had left on the last bus back to Hanoi. The crew stayed behind, to drink all the leftover beer and decompress. We sprawled on a fake bearskin rug in the cinema and swapped stories of organisational mishaps, extreme delirium, and epic fire spin successes.

Working a festival and attending a festival are two very different animals; the former being privy to all the inner workings and backstage drama of which the latter remain blissfully ignorant. And how jealous I was at times of that ignorance. But there was something satisfying about being on the production side of the curtain.

When I was asked to photograph Quest, I jumped at the chance. About 1,800 costumed weirdos dancing in a forest for three days?

Yes, please. My idea of photographic heaven

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(my camera and I specialise in the party).

But what I severely underestimated was the exhaustion.

I broke a camera lens, I screwed up my ankle, and I got kerosene in my eye shooting the fire spinners. I ran in circles all day around the camp, in a futile attempt to capture the overstimulation, which barely ever stopped. The bass pounded until 6am, and resumed four hours later.

My tent was too hot to sleep in, so every morning I woke up somewhere different — in the cinema pavilion, or in the grass with the morning rain hitting my face. I would stumble over to breakfast and my friends and I would count the hours we had slept.

“That makes five hours total this weekend.”

“Maybe I’ll catch a nap by the lake later.”

But somehow, out of all that sleep deprivation ideas bloomed. So much of Quest was off the cuff. Like Space Panther’s last-ever show, organised minutes before, using a piece of fabric cut from the cinema

screen for their video projections, and promoted by a bird-headed Spiderman who ran around the camp yelling: “Come walk through a sonic forest with us!”

Theatrical Or the effigy burn, which was choreographed the day of, during a circus workshop. I was trying in vain to nap in the grass while I listened to the circusers planning madly overhead, an entire theatrical storyline unfolding on the spot.

I even made some of my own spontaneous art on Saturday night, while everyone danced to the headliner, Mighty Mouse. I ditched the party for the solace of the lake with Henry, a burly mountain man who spins fire with effortless grace. He stood knee-deep in the water and I sat on a raft opposite, snapping long exposures while he painted mandalas with fire, reflected in the water beneath him.

There was a lingering sense of regret in

my mind at not being able to fully let go.

Photographing an event is like being on the hunt, and once you’re in that mode, it’s hard to get out. It’s a photojournalist’s greatest dilemma — to document or to experience?

There were a few things that made me put my camera away, though, like walking across a field towards the Altar stage and chancing a look up to see a sky full of stars, more stars than I’ve seen all year. Or 3am on Saturday morning, when the DJ started dropping all my favourite hip hop classics, and I set my gear down to dance until I was dripping sweat.

And of course, that intimate crew afterparty, thrown together on the spot by just a handful of us, laying under an LED cloud in shifting colours while a world-class DJ played a private show, and the rain rushed down in torrents. In that penultimate moment of relief, when the work was done and the camp was empty, we let go, and we were happy. — Jesse Meadows

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Briefings HCMC

There Will Be Cricket Up close and personal with one of the legends of Saigon cricket

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ast time we wrote about cricket, there was an outcry. Well, one reader, Paul Rowe from Vung Tau, wrote in anyway, expressing his joy at reading about a ‘poor unfortunate’ from The Axis of Not Cricket’*, who was getting an opportunity to play the game in Vietnam.

Thank you for your kind words Mr. Rowe. JP and ourselves were suitably encouraged, he even took a wicket last month.

This year, at the beginning of the Vietnam Cricket Association’s new T20 season in Ho Chi Minh City, we spoke to one of its local journeymen, a true foot-soldier and ornament to the game, Dan Malone, who also happens to be a six-foot Cumbrian plinth of a man.

We asked him to share an early tale about playing the game most rational people love.

From The Horse’s Mouth…

“Cricket was an important part of my upbringing in Cumbria, in the far North-West of England,” says Dan. “Each new season brought with it a flourish of excitement. I can recall trips to the cricket shop with my mates, standing awe-struck in front of blades of English willow, and of long summer evenings stomping out a groove in the back field, certifying the position of that summer’s pitch.

“The northern gales and English weather didn’t always

cooperate, but in spite of this, not to mention the England national team’s 1990s malaise, whatever hours we had back then we spent playing, watching and talking about the game.

“At times our youthful exuberance could easily lead to fear. Fear that Friday night’s rain might blight the following day’s game.

Indeed, on one such dark Friday evening, my fellow cricket-mad pal and I, sneaking into our empty club ground armed with mischief, decided that the protecting covers would be of much more value on our team’s wicket (whom we were due to turn out for the next day) than the higher-grade team playing adjacent. Cue heavy rainfall overnight.

“The result? A bone-dry pitch for us, and a very damp and ultimately unplayable

one next door! Game on for my team, early showers for the other mob. Fingers were pointed of course, but did we care? Did we f**k, we had a game to play!

“Fast-forward nearly 20 years, and things are pretty much ‘same-same, but different’.

Gales and drizzle have become tropical downpours. Soggy sarnies and cups of tea have been switched for soggy shirts, cold beers and spicy curry. Waistlines may have grown and stamina waned, but the excitement and enjoyment is still there. The mates may have rotated, but cricket mates have always been great mates, and without doubt, that’s the most important thing about the sport. What else would you be doing on a Sunday morning in Saigon?” — Jon Aspin The VCA’s T20 cricket season is back on at RMIT Oval in District 7, HCMC any given Sunday from 8am. Check vietnamcricket.com for more details of upcoming fixtures. The season runs from November to late May. *The Axis of Not Cricket has been identified as a tiny group of nations including the minor isles of the Americas, small outposts of Northern, Western and Eastern Europe, the majority of a small group of countries called Africa, and pockets of Asia including obscure places like China, Japan, both the Koreas and all the countries to the North and North West of Australia

John Malone winning a school cricket trophy in Carlisle, England

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Sports Digest

Saigon Heat The basketball season is back in full swing. Harry Hodge goes behind the scenes to talk to the head coach of Saigon Heat, Tony Garbelotto

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or Saigon Heat head coach Tony Garbelotto, the term “go with what you know” is a big part of the club’s fourth season in the ASEAN Basketball League (ABL).

Or perhaps “who” is more accurate.

As bench boss of both the Heat and Vietnam’s men’s national team, it’s understandable that many of his domestic players are members of both teams. To this end, Vietnamese players are already seeing more court time than in previous years, with To Quang Trung being the first opening-day

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starter in memory for this stillyoung franchise.

“I like our Vietnamese guys at the moment,” Garbelotto says, pointing to the progress of Trung as well as veteran Trieu Han Minh, a member of the club dating back to the franchise’s first roster. “I believe we can win (with our lineup).”

Vietnamese-American shooting guard David Arnold returns after helping guide the club to its firstever playoff appearance last season, and is joined by countrymen Will Creekmore and Lenny Daniel.

Thai-American Moses Morgan fills an ASEAN regional player spot

on the roster, along with SwedishVietnamese sharpshooter Stefan Nguyen, who is designated as a “heritage” player.

Getting to Know Each Other The club looked like it needed more time to gel in a seasonopening 86-74 loss to the Singapore Slingers at home on Halloween.

Despite encouragement from the boisterous home crowd, the veteran Slingers showed that team chemistry is not an overnight phenomenon, and pounced on numerous miscues. The physical matchup also took its toll on

A Year in Sports

Daniel, hitting the floor hard on numerous occasions and eventually fouling out, despite notching a double-double.

After that, things look like they are coming together for the 2015 edition of this team. A back-and-forth 100-92 overtime loss to the Westports Malaysia Dragons in November showed great resolve for the Heat.

Three of the American players fouled out, leaving Arnold and four domestic players to battle one of the league’s top teams in overtime. While it may not have seemed like it at the time,

it was an important moment for Vietnamese players to be on the court during overtime in a big game.

“It was a way better effort,” says Morgan, one of those who fouled out in the overtime thriller. “We came out with a lot of energy.”

He adds: “I personally can learn from this game. Shoot shots, make shots.”

Here’s hoping that mentality carries on through the rest of the regular season, and that a return to the playoffs is on the horizon.

“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…” — A Tale of Two Cities, Charles Dickens Another year has come and gone for sports in Vietnam, with plenty of highlights and some disappointments too.

Here, we look back at some of the most notable moments in 2015.

Becamex Binh Duong were hoping to show that Vietnam can compete with Asia’s top football clubs, but couldn’t hang with Japan’s Kashiwa Reysol in a 5-1 thumping in March. The club still managed to hoist the V-League title this past September, however.

Making its debut in May, the Ironman 70.3 event attracted competitors from around the world to Danang for triathlon glory. Competitors had to endure not only the grueling 1.9-kilometer swim, 90-kilometer cycle and 21-kilometer run, but temperatures heading north of 38oC. South Africa’s James Cunnama took the men’s title in a time of 3:51:29 and Switzerland’s Caroline Steffen grabbed the women’s crown in 4:21:40.

Nguyen Thi Anh Vien made waves in and out of the pool this year. The Can Tho teenager dominated at the recent SEA Games in Singapore in June, medalling in 10 different disciplines and winning eight. Endorsements and fame have followed, but expectations have also risen for her to help Vietnam improve on its previous achievements at the 2016 Olympics in Rio. Other notable performances at the SEA Games included performances from sprinter Le Trong Hinh in the men’s 200 meters, and female boxers Le Thi Bang and Nguyen Thi Yen. It also marked the return of the men’s national basketball team, coached

by Saigon Heat coach Tony Garbelotto, after a long absence. Vietnam bagged 73 golds and over 180 medals overall.

Not So Pretty The story of a Vietnamese fan burning his expensive Manchester City football tickets in July made headlines for all the wrong reasons.

The highly-anticipated match between the English Premier League side and Vietnam’s national team saw fans queueing for hours to buy tickets, only to see a video posted on YouTube of some of the British club’s stars, such as Joe Hart and Samir Nasri, snubbing fans at the team hotel. They were even less friendly on the field, doling out an 8-1 thrashing at My Dinh Stadium in Hanoi.

Professional boxing made some headlines in Ho Chi Minh City this year, the Saigon Sports Club staging its second event in September.

Five three-round bouts in the lighter weight classes during the September event attracted enthusiasts from around the city, but a beer vendor would have been appreciated on site.

Some of the loudest cheers were reserved for the ring girls, but the event bodes well for further fight cards in the future.

A low point for fight fans in the city came for mixed martial arts that same month and included heavy fines being levied against film star Johnny Tri Nguyen for staging an unsanctioned competition at his martial arts club. Nguyen appealed the decision, arguing the school helps young people in a nonprofit capacity.

Tennis and Quads High-level tennis came to Ho Chi Minh City in October, with Indian star Saketh Myneni claiming the Vietnam Open title at the Lan Anh Country Club with a 7-5, 6-3 victory over Australia’s Jordan Thompson.

November was highlighted by the first edition of the Rainforest Challenge off-road racing event to debut in Binh Duong Province with 4x4s crashing through the mud and vegetation for big prizes.

In short, 2015 featured plenty of the good, the bad and the ugly in ates the world of d updyour n e S r t Vietnamese aboug group o@ sports. Here’s y n i r t r spor nt to ha .com looking eve vietnam forward word to more excitement in 2016!

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 33

ToDo list HCMC

There’s lots of food on offer this festive season.

Fortunately there’s some art, top DJs, comedy and a Santa Claus bike ride to provide some balance, too

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Cafe Cardinal Sunday Brunch

The buffet at Café Cardinal

The first Canvas and Wine this December focuses on Cubism

AIS holds its yearly Christmas bash on Dec. 9

RISS is putting on a winter fair, with all proceeds going to charity

An image from Pham Huy Thong’s exhibition, The Hope

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Reverie Hotel, Q1 Dec. 6, 13, 20 and 27 The Reverie is continuing its rampage through the local food scene by offering a Sunday Brunch.

Come and enjoy fresh seafood, imported US beef, and slow-cooked lamb shoulder, plus a variety of French and Asian delicacies. Enjoy specially priced bottles of premium sparkling wine and champagne, but make sure you save room for dessert.

The Cafe Cardinal Sunday Brunch costs VND988,000 and includes coffee, tea and one glass of Henkell Trocken Kardinal sparkling wine. Brunch runs every Sunday from 11.30am to 2.30pm and features outdoor seating overlooking Nguyen Hue. Cafe Cardinal is at Level 6, Times Square Building, 22-36 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC. For more info call (08) 3823 6688 or visit thereveriesaigon.com

Canvas and Wine Vin-Space, Q7 Tuesday, Dec. 3 and Tuesday, Dec. 14 On Dec. 3, Canvas and Wine presents... Cubism! You may need to be drunk to appreciate Georges Braque’s or Pablo Picasso’s more out-there works, but all you need is an

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open wallet and a glass of vino to give it the old college try yourself. Join the event and make people look like 5D Lovecraftian Horrors from the Hell Dimensions — or is that just a lamp?

The painting sessions continue on Dec. 14 for another evening of silk painting. This time, get your hands really dirty, using wax to help with the painting. Relax and savour your work along with a glass of mulled wine to get you in the holiday mood.

VinSpace is located at S24-1 Le Van Thiem, Q7. Prices range from VND874,000 per individual to VND2.97 million for parties of four.

Teachers get a 20% discount. For info click on vin-space.com

Carols in the Convent St Paul’s Convent Chapel, Q1 Dec. 4 and 5 It’s back, the perfect excuse to get into the Christmas spirit and sing your heart out at the same time.

Clear your throats and get stuck into some traditional choral carols as well as enjoy timeless classical pieces in the beautiful surrounding of St. Paul’s Convent Chapel. The International Choir and Orchestra of HCMC — made up of expats and locals keen on forming friendships through singing — has been holding a concert on the first weekend of

December for years now, meaning the event has quickly become a tradition for anyone looking to get a taste of home over the festive season.

No tickets are required, as seating is on a first come first serve basis. Entry is by donation, with all proceeds going to two charity programmes — Loreto and Poussières de Vie. Based on experience and audience count, we would suggest arriving 30 minutes prior to the start of the concert.

The concert will take place at Saint Paul’s Convent Cathedral, 4 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC on Friday Dec. 4 and Saturday Dec. 5 at 7.30pm

Jingle Bells, Jingle Bells AIS Sports Arena, Q2 Wednesday, Dec. 9 The Australian International School (AIS) will be holding their annual Jingle Bells bash on Wednesday Dec. 9.

Providing fun and entertainment for the whole family, the party will include Christmas carols, Christmas songs, a magic show, a quiz, raffles, and of course, the annual opportunity to meet Santa.

The party runs from 5pm to 7pm at the AIS Sports Arena, 45 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC. The event is free of charge and open to everyone. To register click on aisvietnam.com/jinglebells

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RISS Winter Fair Renaissance International School Saigon, Q7 Thursday, Dec. 10 It’s always good to give money to children, and few things say more about Christmas than giving, unless it’s buying white elephants to inflict on family and friends.

This December you can get your fill of gifts at RISS’s Winter Fair, where you can buy from local merchants and even school children, all to the soothing sounds of the students’ musical offerings. All profits from the fair will go to charity.

To attend, please register via chilk@ renaissance.edu.vn. RISS is located at 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, HCMC

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Craig Thomas Gallery, Q1 Dec. 11 to Jan. 8 Hanoi artist Pham Huy Thong will exhibit a new collection of oil and acrylic paintings on canvas and paper watercolours.

Thong speaks of how ordinary people have learnt hope to survive Vietnam’s turbulent history. The exhibition expresses his belief in the importance of that virtue.

For more information, check out cthomasgallery. com. The show will be held at the new Craig Thomas Gallery, 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC. The opening reception is at 6pm on Friday, Dec. 11

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ToDo list HCMC

Jingle Bells Joy Ride The Bike Shop, Q2 Friday, Dec. 11 Everyone knows that cyclists are generally more awesome than the rest of the population, and these days riding a bike is second nature for Saint Nick, so a Jingle Bell JoyRide goes hand in hand with the season; at least we think it does!

For this reason, get into your best Santa Hat and join The Bike Shop’s annual Xmas JoyRide around District 2, and own the night by bringing a light, helmet and water on top of your best Christmas outfit.

Prizes for best dressed will apply, and the cycling will be followed by beer at the Container Pub, just behind The Vista.

The Christmas JoyRide leaves at 6.45pm. The Bike Shop is at 250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC. Joining is free of charge and bikes are available for hire if you don’t have your own. Please note that for safety reasons, children under 12 are not allowed on the ride

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Heartbeat Turns 3 The Observatory, Q4 Friday, Dec. 11

The Jingle Bells Joy Ride. Your chance to be Santa on a bicycle

Images from Heatbeat over the past three years

Rugby returns to Saigon, but not in this form. This is a touch tournament, baby

The Saigon Players will perform the legendary folk tale, Hansel & Gretel

VinSpace returns with their annual Christmas Market

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Heartbeat will celebrate three years of music with a massive night of international and house and techno on Friday Dec. 11 at The Observatory.

Headliner MØRBECK from Berlin is set to rip up the dance floor by applying rough, groovy, melodic and constantly evolving techno beats. In support is a full card of local talent including regulars Nic Ford, Dan1 and Kris Wolter. Oko and Marco Mei will also be turning up the Saigon heat to celebrate the 15th installment of Heartbeat.

Entrance is free until 11pm and VND150,000 thereafter. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Saigon Rugby Club Touch Tournament RMIT Oval, Q7 Saturday, Dec. 12 The second Saigon Rugby Club touch rugby tournament of the year is here, so prepare yourselves for a great day out at the RMIT Oval in Phu My Hung.

The tournament will include two Hanoi Japanese Touch teams, one Saigon Japanese team, a French team, an ANZAC team, student teams from ABCIS and the French International School, and the defending champions the Harry Casual Barbarians.

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The International Touch Rugby Tournament takes place from 11am to 6pm at RMIT University, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, HCMC

Diner en Blanc Location Unknown Saturday, Dec. 12 The formerly mysterious Diner en Blanc has arrived in Ho Chi Minh City. Conceived in Paris in 1988 by Francois Pasquier as a private dinner for friends, the event now attracts over 15,000 people in the French capital alone, and is found in 60 cities in 25 countries.

The reason for its popularity? The mystery. Diner en Blanc conceals the exact location of their party until the day itself, asking people to bring their own haute picnics, tables, and fine china, wear elegant white clothing, and leave no trash behind. If you aren’t up to cooking a gourmet picnic, you can register for Le Diner en Blanc to provide one.

If you don’t know a member of the organisation to invite you, you must register as a guest on the waiting list and hope. If you do get in, attendance is mandatory, come rain, typhoon, flood or apocalypse.

Tickets costs VND670,000 plus a

VND180,000 membership fee. Visit hochiminh.dinerenblanc.info for more information, and find a member to invite you — quick

Hansel & Gretel Vista Walk, Q2 Dec. 12 to Dec. 14

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Four performances by local theatre group Saigon Players of the legendary folk tale Hansel & Gretel will take place at An Phu’s Vista Walk over the weekend of Dec. 12 to Dec. 14.

Billed as terrific fun for the whole family, and especially recommended for children aged four and up, all proceeds will go to Christina Noble Foundation and Operation Smile.

The first show is on Friday at 6pm. On Saturday there are two performances at 2pm and 6.30pm, and on Sunday the run finishes with a 2pm performance.

If past shows are anything to go by, this will be great entertainment for all the family. Remember, though, four shows only.

Tickets are VND200,000 and can be reserved via saigonplayerstickets@ gmail.com

VinSpace Christmas Art Market The Cube, Q1 Saturday, Dec. 12 VinSpace Art Market is back with their annual Christmas Market. Check out Ho Chi Minh City’s finest handmade arts, with photography, fashion and more, or come talk to local designers and learn more about the art world. The Christmas Market also features fun activities for children, so now your kids can’t claim that they’ll be bored as an excuse to weasel out — they need the culture, anyway.

The Christmas Art Market will take place at The Cube, 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC from 10am to 4pm. Attendance is free

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ToDo list HCMC

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Ta Lai Longhouse is offering a great Christmas getaway for anyone in need of a true escape from the big city

Rising star Charlie Banks will be performing at The Observatory

Some of the artwork that will be exhibited at Small Things

Comedian Ro Campbell during a previous performance in Saigon

Au Lac Do Brazil will bring a taste of South America to their Xmas celebrations

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Ta Lai Longhouse Ta Lai Longhouse, Cat Tien National Park Dec. 12 to Jan. 6 Too much holiday cheer getting you down? Need to get out of the city? Ta Lai Longhouse is offering a jungle getaway for only VND1.75 million or VND650,000 for kids.

The price includes one night of accommodation, dinner with wine, and one unlimited kayaking session.

Leave the urban sprawl and spend some quality time out in the wilderness, living in a longhouse on the edge of one of Vietnam’s most magnificent jungles.

To book or for more info, click on talai-adventure.vn

Charlie Banks The Observatory, Q4 Saturday, Dec. 19 Top shelf house music will come to The Observatory on Dec. 19 with a DJ who the venue describes as “something of a prodigy”.

There’s a reason for this. Charlie Banks recently smashed his way into the attention of electronic

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music connoisseurs globally. By all accounts, he’s a name to watch out for, and definitely one to listen to.

Support will come from Nic Ford and Kin. Entrance is free before 11pm and VND150,000 after. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Small Things Vin Gallery, Q2 From Dec. 20 Vin Gallery will be running their annual exhibition, Small Things, which — happily enough for the event’s name — is a collection of small artworks by local and international artists in Ho Chi Minh City. The show is larger than ever, featuring diverse artists working in many styles of art.

Come and drop small money for small-scale works of oil painting, photography, or sculpture. The art show is just in time for the holidays and could be a great place to do some last-minute shopping.

Vin Gallery is located at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC. For more information, click on vingallery.com or call them on (08) 3519 4581. The show runs until Jan. 16

A Night with Ro Campbell Game On, Q1 Wednesday, Dec. 16 Ro Campbell, the Australian comedian with the Scottish surname — he was once voted Scotting Comedian of the Year — will be hosting a night of laughter, giggles and hilarity at Game On on Wednesday Dec. 16.

Based in the UK, Ro’s brand of cheeky, slightly dark humour has wowed audiences everywhere from Adelaide to Bangalore, Helsinki to Singapore and many places in between.

He has performed at the last eight Edinburgh Fringe festivals and made The Scotsman’s pick of Best Jokes of The Fringe in 2009. He has also written for British TV and radio, featured regularly on BBC Radio and has performed in over 30 countries worldwide.

Described as “Top Notch” by The Scotsman, “Effortlessly brilliant” by The List and the “Biggest laugh of Rockness Festival” by the NME’s Emily Mackay, this will be Ro’s third trip to Saigon. Expect it to be one to remember.

Ro will perform at Game On, 115 Ho

Tung Mau, Q1. For more information or for table bookings, email nick@ saigoninternationalcomedy.com.

Entrance will be VND200,000

La Habana Xmas and New Year La Habana, Q1 Dec. 24 and Dec. 31 La Habana is getting into the holiday spirit and wants you to join them.

Come visit the bistro-bar-lounge for a candle-lit Christmas Eve dinner or for a New Year’s Eve countdown party. We may totally lack winter in Vietnam, but we’ll always have the holidays.

So come, enjoy the food, and perhaps smoke a hand-rolled cigar.

Make sure you sure you RSVP, though.

La Habana is located at 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, HCMC. RSVP by calling them at (08) 3829 5180

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A Brazilian Xmas Au Lac Do Brazil, Q3 Dec. 24, 25 and 31

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If you can hear the sound of the festive season coming, Au Lac Do Brazil has two musical feasts not to be missed. Famous for bringing the Brazilian party spirit to Vietnam, join them to celebrate Christmas when they’ll give you a memorable dinner or lunch including that all important turkey from only (VND850,000++) per pax (children VND500,000). The package includes live music and Santa Claus, and is sure to fill your day with joy and love.

If you’re looking for a great place to ring in the New Year, bring your beloved on Dec. 31 and enjoy a welcome sparkling wine, luxury menu and more live music from (VND850,000++) per pax or (VND1,250,000++).

Au Lac Do Brazil is at 238 Pasteur, Q3, HCMC

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 39

ToDo list HCMC

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Sofitel Saigon’s Art de Noel

Christmas at the Sofitel Plaza, Saigon

Angkor Wat is about to become the backdrop for one of the world’s toughest races

Professional kiteboarding comes to Ninh Chu Bay in Phan Rang

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Sofitel Saigon, Q1 Dec. 24, 25 and 31 Sofitel Saigon is ringing out the old year and in the new with plenty of events.

On Christmas Eve, you can gluttonize your innards with a five-course dinner for VND1.65 million at L’Olivier or by checking out the Christmas Eve Buffet at Mezz Restaurant. The buffet opens at 6.30pm, which leaves you hours to get very merry indeed.

For VND1.888 million, the Mezz’s signature buffet is served with freeflowing red and white wine, Sapporo and soft drinks. For VND2.388 million, you can add free-flowing Champagne Baron de Rotchschild.

On Christmas, it’s back to the Mezz for brunch. Take on roasts, French oysters and more — before you even touch Christmas dinner. This time, the prices go for VND1.388 million and VND1.588 million including the bubbly. The buffet is open from noon to 3pm.

On New Year’s Eve, head back to L’Olivier for a set menu dinner — seven courses for VND1.85 million, running from 7pm onward. The menu includes foie gras, venison, brie and chocolate with coffee granite.

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In addition to the food, there’s also the Countdown Party at the rooftop pool on the 18th floor. Featuring a DJ and a view of the fireworks, the party costs VND700,000 for adults and includes one drink. For children, the entrance is VND400,000. The party runs from 9pm to 1.30am.

Ultra Trail Angkor Angkor Wat, Cambodia Jan 13, 2016 If you’re in search of an exotic destination to escape the gloomy winter, Cambodia awaits you. On Jan. 23, the amazing Angkor UltraTrail will take place — and for the first time ever, the ultra trailers will have the privilege to run in the archeological site of Siem Reap, right in the heart of the Angkor temples. This thousand-year old remnant from the Khmer Kingdom and classified UNESCO world heritage site will be the participants’ running track, whether they choose the 128km, 64km or 32km race. Also acting as a qualifying event for the Mont Blanc Ultra-Trail, the course will take in jungle tracks, sandy paths between tranquil lakes, and bring you up close and personal with the Cambodian people.

For more information go to ultratrailangkor.com

Kiteboarding Tour Asia Coming to Vietnam Ninh Chu Bay, Phan Rang Feb. 24 to 28 Professional kiteboarding is returning to Vietnam, and this time it is coming to Ninh Chu Bay in south central Ninh Thuan.

The Kiteboarding Tour Asia (KTA) will kick-off the exciting new X-Champs Series tour from Feb. 24 to Feb. 28 in one of Asia’s newest kite surfing paradises. Ninh Chu Bay Beach Club (ninhchubay.com) will host the event, which includes multiple disciplines in both men’s and women’s kiteboarding.

“We are incredibly pleased that the KTA chose Ninh Chu Bay Beach Club for their return to Vietnam,” says Mark Gwyther, general director. “It confirms our belief that Ninh Chu Bay Beach Club will become one of Asia’s premier wind and adventure sport tourism destinations. This is the first step in developing Ninh Thuan Province as the wind sport capital of Vietnam.”

The Vietnam event will be followed

by KTA events in Thailand and China.

For sponsorship opportunities. For more info check out kiteboard.asia

overscene ho chi minh

premier of the best-known movie franchise on the planet

The Melbourne Cup once again brought out the hats and the bubby as District 2 restaurant Lubu turned itself

kocham

Saigon turned up at Cargo Bar for the fun

The Korean Chamber of Commerce put on a fundraising night for charity

at the Reunification Palace

a night with glenn wool

He’s one of Canada’s finest, and for one night only this lauded comic descended on Game On Saigon to leave the

crowd in fits of laughter

If you have a noteworthy event which you thinkwould fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.

Go to: wordvietnam.com/mediavp/photo-gallery for full viewing access.

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

PHOTOS BY CSABA MOLNAR

run for cover

‘Twas Halloween. ‘Twas the night the bands dressed up as their favourite rock stars, and ‘twas the night that half of

into a little slice of Australia for the country’s biggest horse racing event

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

They came, they saw, and they dressed to impress. The 007 and Bond girl lookalikes flocked to the cinema Mega GS for the

Melbourne Cup at Lubu

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

premier of spectre

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Just HCMC

Fundraising galas, new restaurants, bars and a French patisserie

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Ollie’s Kitchen — home-style Vietnamese cooking in a nice environment

Café-Restaurant has just opened close to Ben Thanh Market

ESPY Pizza expands to a second location

La Pâtisserie brings authentic French bakery products to the good people of Ho Chi Minh City

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The Heart Institute Gala This year’s Heart Institute Gala, held at the end of November at Gem Centre, raised a record amount of funds for those in need. Organised

by CMI (The International Medical Centre), at the time of writing, from ticket sales, the silent auction and the on-stage auction, the proceeds of the event had already exceeded US$160,000 (VND3.6 billion). All the funds will go to The Heart Institute in District 10 to help subsidise lifesaving heart surgery for children from underpriveliged families in Vietnam.

For more information on The Heart Institute and CMI, please click on cmi-vietnam.com or go to facebook.com/ heartinstitutecharitygala

Ollie’s Kitchen Located on the first floor of a building on Nguyen Hue, Ollie’s Kitchen is a modern and cozy joint equipped with simple wooden tables and chairs. Serving Vietnamese home-style cuisine, the menu is written on a blackboard and includes smoothies and coffee starting from VND50,000 to popular Vietnamese

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fare, such as stir-fried chicken with ginger, shaking beef and chicken curry, all priced at VND90,000.

There are also lunch combos that are updated daily.

They also serve wine. At the moment, Ollie’s Kitchen is offering a happy hour deal — buy a bottle of Astica Chardonnay or Astica Cabernet Sauvignon for VND225,000 from 5pm to 8pm every day except Sundays.

For more info, please call 0908 298282. Ollie’s Kitchen is on Floor 1, 86 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC

and have brought their ideas to life in this modern brasserie, hoping to become a living room in the heart of the City. Every Sunday, instead of the usual Sunday Brunch, CaféRestaurant is hosting a Sunday roast with specialties such as beer can chicken. Settle in for the afternoon, invite your friends, and don’t forget to sample the house made Marou chocolate liqueur — this stuff goes down a little too easily.

Café-Restaurant is located at Floor 1, 171 Calmette, Q1, HCMC and is open seven days a week from 7am to midnight

Café-Restaurant

ESPY Pizza Opens Second Location

Tucked away on Calmette, just down the street from Ben Thanh Market, is the entrance to Ho Chi Minh City’s newest restaurant. Once inside prepare to be surprised by the open space, vast menu, and wonderful atmosphere: when you get to CaféRestaurant you’ve come out to come home.

Noting the lack of a Grande Café in Ho Chi Minh City, a location people can flock to for any meal, the three owners conceptualized Café-Restaurant in January 2015,

Everyone’s favourite New York style pizza parlour has opened up a satellite shop behind the Reunification Palace. ESPY Pizza, which has been running since Dec. 2013, is expanding to make sure it’s quicker and easier for their fans to get their pizza fix; the same great pizza with a different view.

The new location is tiny and primarily for take-away orders; they currently do not serve any side orders at this location except for

PHOTO BY SIÂN KAVANAGH PHOTO BY SIÂN KAVANAGH

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salad. ESPY sets itself out by not aspiring to be gourmet pizza, but the perfect slice to grab on the go, or a great pie to share with friends.

ESPY Pizza’s second location is at 97A Nguyen Du, Q1, HCMC, behind the Reunification Palace, and is open from 11am to 9.30pm

La Pâtisserie There are few things better than freshly baked French delicacies, and

this is exactly what the owners of La Pâtisserie want to serve the people of Ho Chi Minh City.

The bakery, which opened mid-November, is using only ingredients imported from France, including chocolate, pastry, and even butter. The aim is to make the products as authentic as possible, with a large selection of baked goods made fresh on the premises every day. They also offer a selection of salads, sandwiches,

snack foods, burgers and fries.

This is a little slice of Paris in the heart of Saigon, but with a mission to learn and adapt their flavours to their customers. They offer a new special online every week, from discounts on drinks and snacks, to cheap food and drink combinations.

La Pâtisserie is at 90 Dien Bien Phu, Dakao, Q1, HCMC and is open seven days a week from 7.30am to 10pm. For online discounts click on facebook.com/ lapatisseriehcmc

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 43

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PHOTOS BY SIÂN KAVANAGH

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VIII Re is a slice of Ancient Rome in, erm, Phu My Hung

Dailo is the latest incarnation of Red Bar

Fancy some fries? Pop Fries in Q2 might just be the answer

Get yourself a cashew butter gift set and help kids with cancer

Fancy some pearly whites? Elite Dental might just be able to help

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VIII Re — Eighth King Italian Restaurant Since opening in Sep. 2015, VIII Re or Eighth King has been bringing authentic Italian food to District 7 in its romantic restaurant styled after the classic architecture of Rome.

Named after the Eighth King of Rome, a nod to the legend of Ancient Rome’s seven kings, this restaurant is making a name for itself on the Saigon scene with its Italian offerings. The in-house butchery sells a wide variety of imported beef, pork, and sausages as well as wine, cheese, cold cuts, and Italian dried goods, allowing youy the option of either eating in or taking home.

From the Friday roast pig special (currently offered every week) and wood oven pizza to the extensive wine cellar, this is paradise for any food lover, and definitely worth the adventure out to Ancient Rome in the modern world of District 7.

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VIII Re is located at R4. 27-28-29, Hung Phuoc 1 / Bui Bang Doan and Le Van Thiem, Q7, HCMC. The restaurant is open seven days a week from 3pm to 11pm

Dailo’s Bar Hidden away upstairs from Chomp Chomp restaurant, you’ll find Dailo’s Bar, the new home, and name, of the ever-popular Red Bar. Meaning big brother in Cantonese, Dailo is named for the late owner of Red Bar, Michael Keung, with the very fitting slogan “The Legend Lives On”. The location may have changed but the staff, amenities and vibe are still the same.

There is a live band playing music four nights a week (Wednesday to Saturday), featuring a crowdpleasing variety of pop and rock music. Here you’ll find the right atmosphere for playing a game of pool or darts, enjoying a pint of beer,

listening to some live music, or just hanging out with friends.

Though this bar may be somewhat hard to find — remember where that funky little cinema Fafilm is? Well that’s the place — it promises to be even harder to leave.

Dailo’s Bar is located at the end of Nguyen Sieu (off Thai Van Lung), Q1, HCMC, above Chomp Chomp restaurant, and is open 10am to 1am, seven days a week

Pop Fries Thao Dien has gotten itself a new eatery, but this is not your standard restaurant joint, it’s a graffitied up, white-brick space serving up just one dish. French fries.

Yes, French fries. Can you imagine?

But hold on, you say. Surely you can’t get away with just selling fried potatoes? Well, of course you can’t,

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which is why Pop Fries does to the humble chip what Americans did to the humble pizza — they give it extravagant toppings.

Here there are four options to choose from, all costing VND79,000.

Japa Fries (Japanese beef curry), loca fries (chicken breast, tomato salsa, garlic sauce, pickled chilli), korilla fries (Korean pulled pork, BBQ sauce and kimchi), and for the meat-ismurder brigade, a vegetarian option called Parma fries (eggplant, tomato cream sauce and Parmesan). Take in an ice-cold Saigon beer with your plate of fries, and you might almost be heading to junk food heaven!

Pop Fries is at 14M Quoc Huong, Q2, HCMC or online at popfries.co

Kids First Cashew Butter Being one of biggest exporters of cashew nuts in the world, Vietnam knows a thing or two about these

3 nutty products; making peanut butter for example, but out of cashews.

Roasted from cashews using no other additives, Kids First Enterprise is offering up a cashew peanut butter gift box this Christmas, with all proceeds going to the charity’s Kids With Cancer project. If you want to know who Kids First is, then remember those huge Arts for Mobility jazz concerts every year at Cargo Bar as well as the classical concerts at the HCMC Conservatory? Well, that’s them.

To get hold of your gift set (costs VND500,000), simply email rogerf@ seanet.com or send an SMS to 0909 718934. Payment can be made by cash on delivery or bank transfer

Elite Dental Vietnam all smiles We never stop dreaming of being

more attractive, nor confident.

Luckily we can stop dreaming and start doing by improving the ol’ pearly whites. Elite Dental Vietnam say the secret behind a beautiful smile from them is collaboration between an expert in cosmetic dentistry with over 10 years of experience, and a highly skilled Japanese technician. Using porcelain veneers to recreate the natural look of teeth, they offer a five-year warranty and a free first-time consultation.

During the month of December 2015 you can also save when you buy a veneers and teeth whitening package for VND52 million (normal price VND60 million) including 10 veneers. Consultations are also available for minor alterations, shape or colour changes.

Elite Dental Vietnam is at 57A Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 HCMC. For more information go to elitedental.com.vn

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 45

ToDo

listHanoi December is all about food, festivities and more food.

Fortunately, comedy, live music, art fairs and exhibitions help fill in the gaps

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Don’s Does December

HCC will be serving up roast lamb dinners throughout December

The Canadian Lobster Boil at Don’s Bistro

Art For You returns to Manzi this month

The Intercon will be celebrating Christmas and New Year in style

Openly gay comic Daniel-Ryan Spaulding will be performing at ATK early this month

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Don’s Bistro, Tay Ho All December Don’s knows how to do Christmas, and this year is no different with some mouthwatering fare to get your teeth into.

All month, the West Lake restaurant will be serving up a Canadian Lobster Boil (US$39.99++ / VND900,000) which includes one pound of Canadian hardshell lobster boiled in seawater, served up with corn on the cob, baby potatoes and melted butter. Also, just to keep you salivating, Don’s have created an indulgent festive tapas menu for Dec. 24 and Dec. 25, which includes six dishes — think the likes of oysters, foie gras, mussels, Iberian ham, blossom tea smoked salmon and turkey breast croquettes — served up with a welcome whiskey egg nog (made from Canadian whiskey). All this? A very nicely priced VND1 million++.

Don’s is at 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Hump Day Hunk of Lamb Hanoi Cooking Centre, Ba Dinh Dec. 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 The Hanoi Cooking Centre is offering a special evening menu on Wednesdays throughout December with its traditional roast lamb dinners. The menu features minestrone soup with meatballs as a starter, roast lamb, roast potatoes,

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2 cauliflower cheese, mint jelly and red wine sauce, followed by dessert of the day.

Customers can either book to enjoy this meal in the restaurant, or have the dinner delivered to their homes.

For info, please email info@ hanoicookingcentre.com or call (04) 3715 0088. Hanoi Cooking Centre is at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

Art For You Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Dec. 3 to Dec. 7 Together with Workroom 4, Manzi Art Space is hosting the latest art fair of ‘affordable art’ from Dec. 3 to Dec. 7.

The 400 works of art on

sale — combined from the two organisations’ artists — will include paintings, photography, prints and sculptures. Compared to traditional art gallery sales, the fair is creating a chance for those looking to pick up a bargain or get some inspiration and discover new artists and their work.

Art for You runs from 10am to 8pm on Dec. 3 through to Dec. 7 at Manzi Art Space, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh

Festive December Intercontinental West Lake, Tay Ho Throughout December The Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake is planning a full month of festivities starting with a Christmas market and

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5 traditional carols as early as Dec. 5 and winding up with a masquerade party to see in the New Year.

Both the Cafe au Lac and Milan restaurants will be busy with special events such as themed Sunday brunches (VND1.1 million++), a six-course Christmas Eve dinner (VND1.5 million++), a Christmas day buffet (from VND1.5 million++), and a New Year’s Eve extravaganza which includes dinner at either of the hotel’s two main restaurants followed by the Masquerade Countdown Party at Milan Saigon Terrace. This event to usher in 2016 will feature a guest DJ and other entertainment plus a free flow of selected drinks.

For more information call (04) 6270 8888. The Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake is at 1a Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Maison Christmas Market Maison de Tet Décor, Tay Ho Sunday, Dec. 6 Maison de Tet Decor hosts its Christmas Market Day on Sunday, Dec. 6 from 10am to 4pm.

The event in the French villa on the corner of West Lake will bring together a varied showcase of art, craft and fashion and as well as an organic farmers' market. There will also be some great Christmas items on sale. Chat with the artists and pick up some great items from stalls by the likes of Avaanna, Kilomet 109, Laurent Severac, Future Traditions, Le Chalet Café, Christiane Campioni jewellery, Better World, Maison de Tet Decor and more.

Maison de Tet Decor is at Villa 36,

Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Expat Life CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Sunday, Dec. 6 Canadian stand-up comedian Daniel-Ryan Spaulding will be bringing his new show Expat Life to town, which explores globalisation issues from his perspective as an openly gay comedian.

Spaulding has performed in 37 countries worldwide including China and his comedy explores culture, identity, sexuality and stereotypes through the lens of his personal experience.

Entrance is VND100,000 and doors are at 8pm. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 47

ToDo

listHanoi

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BBGV Christmas Party Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, Hoan Kiem Sunday, Dec. 6

3. The BBGV will be holding its annual Xmas party in the Metropole

DJ Roscius from the UK will be bringing his global sounds to ATK

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2. The festival Queer Forever opens at Goethe-Institut. This image is from this year's ASEAN Pride

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The British Business Group of Vietnam (BBGV) likes to celebrate Christmas time, and this year will be no different with the British community in Hanoi coming together to enjoy the spirit of the festive season with excellent drink, food and company under the Metropole Christmas Tree.

The Christmas celebration dinner will include entertainment, a charity raffle, Christmas carols and a free flow of wine, beer, fruit juices, cocktails and spirits, all for the price of VND500,000 (BBGV members) or VND800,000 (non-members).

Children under the age of four are free of charge and children between the age of four and 12 receive a 50% discount.

The party kicks off at 7pm on Sunday

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Dec. 6. To book your space call (04) 6674 0945. Tickets are limited

Opening of Queer Forever Goethe-Institut Hanoi, Ba Dinh Wednesday, Dec. 9 On Dec. 9, the Goethe Institute will be hosting the opening event of the Queer Forever! Festival, a festival that will run in Hanoi until Jan. 3.

The first part of the evening deals with the different approaches to the portrayal of homosexual men in Vietnamese film. This is followed by a screening of the award-winning film Adrift, which explores the mesh of relations between two women and several men. The screening will be followed by a question-andanswer discussion.

The event begins at 4pm, with the film to be screened at 6.30pm.

The Goethe-Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. For more information call (04) 3734 2251. For

more information on Queer Forever, please click on facebook.com/Qforeverfestival or email queerforeverfestival@gmail.com

DJ Roscius CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Dec. 11 CAMA ATK will be hosting Londonbased British DJ, Roscius, on Friday Dec. 11.

With a classical music upbringing, Roscius has used his training to help him become a world-class DJ, experimenting with vocals and sounds from around the globe. Add a touch of acoustic and electronic drums, keyboards, jazz improv mixed with classical, melancholic with disco, and you get everything beyond and in between deep house, minimal electro and world beats.

Entrance is VND100,000 and doors are at 8pm. For info email info@camaatk.com. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

Call Us

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 49

ToDo

listHanoi

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A Night with Ro Campbell

Australian comic Ro Campbell was once voted Scottish Comedian of the Year

Japanese artist Anchorsong creates his own electronic music live

Work from the exhibition True Blue by artist Le Quy Tong

This year’s Song Hong Half Marathon takes place on Dec. 13

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House of Son Tinh, Tay Ho Thursday, Dec. 17 Ro Campbell, the Australian comedian with the Scottish surname — he was once voted Scotting Comedian of the Year — will be hosting a night of laughter, giggles and hilarity at The House of Son Tinh on Thursday Dec. 17.

Based in the UK, Ro’s brand of cheeky, slightly dark humour has wowed audiences everywhere from Adelaide to Bangalore, Helsinki to Singapore and many places in between.

He has performed at the last eight Edinburgh Fringe festivals and made The Scotsman’s pick of Best Jokes of The Fringe in 2009. He has also written for British TV and radio, featured regularly on BBC Radio and has performed in over 30 countries worldwide.

Described as “Top Notch” by The Scotsman, “Effortlessly brilliant” by The List and the “Biggest laugh of

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Rockness Festival” by the NME’s Emily Mackay, this will be Ro’s third trip to Vietnam. Expect it to be one to remember.

Ro will be supported by the Hanoi Comedy Collective and The House of Son Tinh is at 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For more information or for table bookings, email dan@highway4. com. Entrance will be VND200,000

Anchors Aweigh CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Dec. 18 CAMA ATK will be hosting Japanese music producer and solo live act, Anchorsong, on Friday Dec. 18.

Globally recognised for his ability to create electronic music live using a sampler and a keyboard, this Japanese wizard promises a blend of traditional and modern music, with tribal rhythms fitting in seamlessly with the latest sounds.

Entrance is VND100,000 and doors are at 8pm. For info email info@

cama-atk.com. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

True Blue Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh From Dec. 12 This December Manzi will be hosting Le Quy Tong’s solo exhibition, True Blue.

The result of years of working in silence, the work in True Blue marks a clear departure from the artist’s previous interest — Tong last exhibited in 2008. Experimenting with new techniques and themes, the resulting body of work experiments with a hybrid of painting, decorated pattern and found imagery. Each of the works takes its starting point from photographic documentations of significant political meetings that influenced the course of history.

The exhibition will open at 6pm on Saturday Dec. 12 and will run until Jan. 12. Entrance is free of charge. Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

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Song Hong Half Marathon Ciputra, Tay Ho Sunday Dec. 13 The Hanoi’s Red River Runners annual Song Hong half marathon will take place on Sunday Dec. 13. Working in partnership with Education for Nature Vietnam (ENV), this year’s event, tagged as the Run for Rhinos, will highlight ENV’s campaign to reduce consumer demand for rhino horn in Vietnam.

The race will start and finish at the Clubhouse in Ciputra and as in previous years, it will be a street-running event taking in a generous section of the Tay Ho lakeside roads in addition to the more sedate confines of Ciputra itself. As well as the half marathon, runners can try their luck at the 10km or 5km races, and there will also be a fun run for the kids.

To register, click on

redriverrunners.com or go to the Red River Runners Facebook page.

To see an article on ENV, please turn to page 18

Old Sounds of New Day

capacity, please email manzihanoi@ gmail.com before Tuesday Dec. 15 to reserve seats.

Queer Forever Art Fair

Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Friday Dec. 18

Nha San Art Collective, Hai Ba Trung Sunday, Dec. 20

The monthly series of traditional music concerts hosted by Manzi returns for its fifth outing on Friday, Dec. 18.

In an effort to support traditional values, and to tell a quickly-being-lost story about traditional music in Vietnam, this month the concert will bring the audience a night of unforgettable songs by Dong Kinh Co Nhac, a group of musicians featuring the best masters of traditional music in Hanoi.

Doors are at 8pm on Friday, Dec. 18 at Manzi, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Entrance surcharge is VND200,000 (including a free drink). Due to limited seating

Nha San Art Collective will be hosting a fair of more than 15plus stalls selling and displaying crafts, dolls, clothes, books, souvenirs, designer furniture, old toys and much more.

Part of the Queer Forever festival, the organisers are encouraging storeholders to design products with the idea, content or form of ‘queer’ as understood and perceived by each individual.

Nha San Collective is on the 15th floor of Hanoi Creative City, 1 Luong Yen, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi.

The art fair will run from 10am to 7pm. For further information click on facebook.com/Qforeverfestival

ToDo

listHanoi

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Just one of the creative Xmas desserts on offer this festive season at the JW Marriott

Only opened this year, Apricot Hotel has got stunning views over Central Hanoi

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Marriott Winter Warmers

Ballroom Blitz

JW Marriott, My Dinh Dec. 24 to Jan. 1

Daewoo Hotel, Dong Da Dec. 24 and Jan. 1

The JW Marriott Hanoi is planning a full suite of Christmas and New Year entertainment, beginning with a Christmas Eve six-course evening dining extravaganza at French Grill (VND3 million++ per person), which will feature a live jazz band and gifts on the door.

Christmas favourites will also be on the menu at the JW Café with special buffets (VND1.5 million++) on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. This will include live entertainment and a lucky draw, as well as free flow mulled wine, selected juices and soft drinks.

The festivities culminate with a 1920s New Year’s Eve party at French Grill featuring a live jazz band (VND3 million++ per person), followed by a Countdown Party at the Antidote Bar to see in the New Year (VND3,500,000++ per table) including a bottle of champagne, snacks and a fruit platter.

For information or bookings, call (04) 38335588 or 0904 897526. The JW Marriott is at 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Hanoi

The Daewoo Hotel’s main ballroom will stage the centrepiece of the hotel’s Christmas celebrations with a gala dinner on Christmas Eve. Apart from the dinner itself, the event will feature an invited famous artist, musical entertainment, games, a lucky draw and other activities. The dinner is priced at VND1.45 million++ per adult and VND850,000++ per child including one free glass of beer or soft drink.

On New Year’s Eve, the hotel will host a BBQ buffet dinner with such favourites as roast turkey with cranberry sauce and gravy followed by apple pie or pumpkin pie for dessert. The buffet is priced at VND690,000++ per adult and VND400,000++ per child, and includes a free flow of beer or soft drinks.

For reservations and information, please call (04) 3831 5000, Ext. 3235.

The Daewoo Hotel is at 360 Kim Ma, Dong Da, Hanoi

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Apricot marks first Christmas Apricot Hotel, Hoan Kiem Dec. 24 and Jan. 1 The new Apricot Hotel will celebrate its first Christmas with a special guest, Santa Claus, who will be paying a visit to the hotel’s Avanti Ballroom on Christmas Eve. This accompanies a gourmet dinner (VND2.2 million++) with a live stage show, a lucky draw and gifts for the children.

The hotel’s L’Artiste restaurant will host a dinner buffet the same evening (VND1.3 million ++), serving up such staples as traditional roast turkey and grilled seafood, as well as Japanese delicacies and desserts.

Apricot will also ring in New Year’s Eve with a buffet dinner at L’Artiste and a countdown party on the rooftop terrace, a premier vantage point to marvel at Hoan Kiem Lake and Hanoi’s skyline by night.

Throughout all of the events, Apricot Hotel will call on guests to show generosity by donating to a charity box to help turn disadvantaged children’s dreams into reality.

For bookings call (04) 3828 9595.

Apricot Hotel is at 136 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

overscene hanoi

PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS

the hanoi beer festival

Vietnam loves its beer, and this year’s Hanoi Beer Festival brought in over 50

options for the thirsty among us to imbibe and enjoy

PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

the wave

Halloween. An Escape Party.

Eden Garden. Some big name DJs. The result?

One heck of a party…

The Hanoi Comedy Collective teamed up with the awe-inspiring Canadian comic, Glenn Wool, to have

the crowds in hysterics at the House of Son Tinh

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

the plight of Vietnam’s gibbons

The Opening of Linguini Fini

One of the latest restaurants to come to West Lake put on an almighty bash, just to make sure that everyone knows they’re here. It worked, of

course — half of the suburb turned up

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

FFI put on a night at the Summit Lounge to raise much-needed funds to help

comedy at Son Tinh

the zombie run

The ghouls came out for one night only as they progressed from ground zero, aka HRC,

to secret locations around the city.

If you have a noteworthy event which you thinkwould fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.

Go to: wordvietnam.com/mediavp/photo-gallery for full viewing access.

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

gibbon it up

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Just Hanoi

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PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

PHOTO PROVIDED BY REHAHN

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Chops is the latest eatery to descend on West Lake

Rehahn’s latest photography work is being published in the second edition of Mosaic of Contrasts

Salmonoid is a new restaurant in a French villa serving dishes using one core ingredient: salmon

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Getting your Chops A new gourmet burger joint has opened in Hanoi with the uncompromising name of Chops, and it’s already proving to be a hit.

Located on the same strip as Don’s and The Republic, the burgers here are made with the full range of meats — beef, chicken, lamb, pork, fish, and even a falafel vegetarian option. All are priced in the VND110,000 to VND200,000 range.

Run by Richie Bardsley (formerly of Moose & Roo) and Mark Joyce, Chops also offers a selection of American-style platters and craft beers, including a Pasteur Street IPA brewed in Saigon, and Hanoi’s very own Gold Malt. This selection will be widened in the coming weeks, the restaurant said. And of course, the eatery serves the traditional burger accompaniment, milkshakes.

Chops is at 4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi. More information can be found on the restaurant’s Facebook page, or by calling (04) 6292 1044

Mosaic of Contrasts French photographer Rehahn will shortly release the second volume of his popular work, Vietnam, Mosaic of Contrasts.

The first volume, published in January 2014, was a success with 4,000 copies sold in 29 countries. The new volume will present another

54 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

part of the mosaic, more than 160 photos taken over the last two years.

Rehahn travelled from the north to the south of the country exploring different landscapes, different ethnic groups and many other facets of Vietnam.

The volume is a 33cm by 28cm coffee-table book of 148 pages, with the subject matter divided into four parts: children, the elderly, lifestyle and landscapes.

The price is US$55 (VND1.2 million) and copies pre-ordered through the author’s website will be personally signed by Rehahn. From Dec. 10, the book goes on general sale worldwide.

For more info, click on rehahnphotographer.com

Ascott to Manage West Point The Ascott has announced it will manage the latest serviced apartment complex to come to the West Lake area of the capital, the 247-unit Somerset West Point Hanoi.

Somerset West Point will offer a range of serviced apartment types from studios, up to fourbedroom apartments and penthouse units, each with private balcony, contemporary décor, modern fittings, a fully-equipped kitchen with separate living and dining areas, a home entertainment system

and wireless Internet access. The property is close to Au Co and is well-connected to the existing CBD in Hoan Kiem area and the new CBD in West Hanoi.

For more information click on theascott.com or email wong.timothy@ the-ascott.com.com

The King of Fish There’s a new aroma and a new concept in town and it’s called Salmonoid. The idea, the restaurant says, is to create a wide range of fusion cuisines; nouveau cuisine blending a touch of Thailand, Japan, Italy and France, but all based on a single central ingredient: salmon.

The restaurant describes it as a “little world food adventure” with dishes including Eastern favourites like sour and spicy salmon soup, wakame salad, as well as western dishes like salmon risotto or salmon sous vide, ending with desserts like crème brulee with Lotus smash.

Located in a former French-built villa, the restaurant features two dining areas — an indoor space as well as a garden or rooftop — and promises a touch of France with its cobblestoned entranceway, the design and the music.

Salmonoid is at 32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Reservations can be made from the website at salmonoid.vn or by calling (04) 3200 0628

Once reserved exclusively for royalty, tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences.

Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy.

THE FRASER COLLECTION BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 55

Insider

The Cider Market / The Wordies 2015 / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Street Snacker Hanoi / Mystery Diner HCMC / Street Snacker HCMC / Jammu & Kashmir / Escape the City / The Motorbike Diaries Photo by Nick Ross 56 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 57

Food and Drink

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

58 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

INSIDER

NATIONAL

The Cider Market From craft cider through to producers ramping out the good stuff, thousands of bottles at a go, cider is finally making inroads into the Vietnamese market. Here’s the lowdown.

Words by Owen Salisbury and Jesse Meadows

Craft cider, alcohoic volume: 7.5%

Who’s Here Already So what’s here? Magners has been available for two years in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, but it’s only now transitioning from expat bars in District 1 and District 2 to the wider market. Rekorderlig is also making inroads into the more Vietnamese-orientated bars, as are Westons and Bruntys, a British

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PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

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ice wine has been in Vietnam since people learned to cultivate rice. Beer arrived in the 1890s when French colonists founded Habeco. Wine, too, came with the French presence. Spirits like vodka, whisky and cognac still battle for customer loyalty as a new player enters the scene.

Cider (alcohoic volume: 7.5%) is still in its infancy in Vietnam, though it was available as a niche drink for expatriates at the nowdefunct Sheridan’s Irish Pub as early as 2011. Expats are the market entry point for cider importers large and small, welcoming another familiar beverage, and the focus of the small local craft scene.

As Mark Hanrahan from Westons explains: “Cider is mainly drunk by expats.

Vietnamese have no idea what the drink is, although they like the taste of most of the ciders they try. It’s just a mindset of getting them to buy it. Generally when we do samples, most Vietnamese like our range.”

That local consumers are beginning to explore this new beverage is positive for the industry. Add to this the country’s changing demographics, and now we’re seeing some of the world’s largest cider brewers anteing up against regional companies, and even local, craft ones. Kristian Harmston, the importer of the premium Swedish cider Rekorderlig, says: “Growth can double or triple over the next two years.”

cider imported from Cambodia.

Even unlikely venues are catching onto the possible profitability of selling cider here.

Four flavours of Strongbow cider — only one remotely traditional — can be found on Kitchi Kitchi’s menu, and Citimart began carrying multiple brands even before its acquisition by Aeon. Western and imported food stores carry cider, but markups are steep, though Westons, even after import taxes, is less expensive in Ho Chi Minh City than in Sydney or London.

Bottles are still the norm, but a few bars carry ciders on tap, like Game On, which has the Westons brand Stowford Press. As bar choices expand in general, clubs and beer gardens — more popular among young Vietnamese professionals than expats or travellers — are likely future moves for importers and distributors.

Those young professionals are one possible Vietnamese target. Lager — light, relatively sweet, especially that brewed in locally-owned breweries — is overwhelmingly the most popular type of beer in Vietnam, and it’s not much of a stretch to see that cider is a natural fit for this country.

And Whom They’ll Sell To Curious young consumers with broad tastes and disposable income are one of the most lucrative market segments in any country.

This is especially true here, where such a large proportion of the country is under 30. Combining these facts make it obvious why many cider companies are coming to Vietnam.

The major questions are how cider breaks into the market, when, and in what flavours.

Will it be the traditional flavours — apple, berry and pear? Will it be recognizable if

less popular ones, like elder flower or peach, become popular? What about something non-traditional, like pumpkin? Future revenues depend on it.

The new market has the potential to be a major source of revenue for cider brewers.

Given that Vietnam brewed 2 billion litres of beer in 2010, it’s also easy to see that brewers are here because the drinkers are. That figure should be understood; cider may sell 20,000 litres in a good month, or a tiny 0.01% of the beer market.

Where It’s All Headed With 90 million people, increasing wealth, and interest in foreign cultures, Vietnam will likely be a major cider market, but exactly how importers and brewers get the word out is the key question. Some local brands will doubtless rise to international heights on the strength of their answers.

Major labels with major advertising and distribution budgets will steer the new market’s development, especially over the next few years. Cider and beer overlap considerably in customer demographics, and major beer brands like Heineken will get in the game, fighting for their share.

“The beer players invest hundreds of millions of dollars. They won’t give up volume without a fight,” said Harmston.

“The rest of the cider market players don’t have that muscle or resource, so we just gotta go along for the ride.”

Artisan Brewing On the flipside of the major beverage players, small-batch craft brews are becoming increasingly popular. Dominated by expats (for now), breweries like Pasteur and Fuzzy Logic in Saigon are driving the craft beer craze. As for cider, the market is

Craft cider, wordvietnam.com | December 2015alcohoic Wordvolume: | 61 7.5%

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PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

still in its infancy, but growing steadily.

“Several people have approached me saying that I’ve started a craft beverage revolution here,” says Hannah Jefferys, the woman behind the apples at Saigon Cider. She started brewing in 2013, driven by a nostalgia for the apple orchards of her childhood in Somerset, UK, and a need to scratch a creative itch that her architecture job couldn’t reach.

In Vietnam, she saw a lack of the quality cider she was used to drinking back home, and began carting her brews around to festivals, markets, and parties, particularly at alternative venue Saigon Outcast. Since then, her brand has spread across the country, and is now distributed via venues in Saigon, Hoi An, Nha Trang, and Hanoi, under one condition: all venues must agree to reuse her glass bottles, a sustainable operating policy important to Hannah that she plans to continue even in the face of rapid expansion.

Currently, a 500ml bottle of Hannah’s cider ranges in price according to the distributor, costing VND240,000 at Hanoi’s Maison de Tet and less at Saigon Outcast in Ho Chi Minh City. Flavours include ginger, hot chilli, cinnamon and vanilla, and of course, the classic apple. Most of the brand’s ingredients are sourced domestically, except for, ironically enough, the apples.

“Anyone who tells you they use Vietnamese apples is lying,” Hannah laughs. Apples don’t grow in Vietnam, so

most are imported from China or the EU, considerably driving up costs for small brewers.

Apples and Chocolate The cost of apples is of no concern to Loc at Stonehill Farms. Since 2010, he has been experimenting with a different kind of ingredient — cocoa. The beverage is distilled from the inner cases surrounding the cocoa beans, sourced from his family’s permaculture farm in Dong Nai. It takes 10 to 15kg of beans to make one 250ml bottle; the beans are distilled for one year and each bottle is sold for VND180,000.

Loc began selling this unique concoction in December 2014, and by the time Tet rolled around, one-third of a year’s worth of stock had been consumed. It’s currently only available at Craft Beer in District 2, but the brand has plans for an international launch.

Hanoi’s Cyber Cider was born of romance; Taya Pollard was in love, and wanted to make something special for her dearest. She had previously tried her hand at brewing in her hometown of Almaty, in Kazakhstan, under the guidance of her stepfather, a master brewer of all things alcoholic.

“I spent many sleepless nights making juice from apples, and the rest of the night cleaning up apples from the kitchen. I hated it.” she says. But, relishing a good challenge, Taya has been hard at work since January

this year, crafting a line of ciders, wines, and ginger ales in her kitchen, which she describes as a mad scientist’s lab.

For now, the brand operates under a flag of exclusivity — available in very small batches for home delivery, with bottles starting at around VND160,000, or occasionally popping up at events around town, like the recent Hanoi Beer Festival.

Coming from a background in advertising, Taya says her strategy is based on ‘dark marketing’, an indirect approach based on subliminally influencing consumers. She provides a quality product to a select few, and relies mainly on word-of-mouth to do the rest. One day she hopes to open her own ‘Cyber Cider Cellar’, but has no plans to mass distribute the product, as she believes that small production preserves quality.

It’s this same quality that Hannah hopes will drive market demand for craft brews. Cider is a relatively new product for Vietnamese consumers, and many are still unfamiliar with it, and consequently, unwilling to shell out the extra dong to drink it.

“At first, they’ll complain it’s so expensive, but when they go back to a drink they’re used to, they will see why, and choose to pay more,” Hannah remarks.

Combine a quality product with one of the fastest-growing middle classes in the world, and you’ve got a recipe for market success. It may just take some time to plant the seed.

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ET TOP RES HE TH THE TOP THE TOP BE T OP NIGTAURANTS THE TOP DESTI ER CA NATIO N S TC N VIETH IN VIET FES IIN IN VIET CLUBS IN VIET NAMLUB S VIETN NAM NAM NAM AM up, it’s December, time once again for our musician all the way through to the company director Annual Word Awards (aka The Wordies), and or self-made millionaire; you’re a mixed bunch. And time again for the decisions made over the it’s because you have such a contrasting range of next 20 or so pages to be hung out to dry. backgrounds — both professional and cultural — Before you criticize, agree or disagree, let’s stop a that we try to make our content so varied; a little of moment. How did we arrive at our best restaurants, something for everyone. bars and cafes in Vietnam list? We pulled together a But enough of that, because this end-of-year awards number of judges. A total of 75 of them to be precise. extravaganza is not only about you and your opinions, THE THE WORDIES And knowing what an extensive spectrum of readers we it’s about the best and WORDIES the worst of Vietnam in 2015.

2015were chosen to reflect a broad crosshave, our judges From our development,2015 news and technology awards section of the kind of people who pick up our mag. through to the best events of 2015 and the top nightclubs E T H O T P R ESTAUR Apo again?), what you RSON PEdear OF THwho So, readers, you? in Vietnam (did anyone ANTS E YEare IN VIEmention AR NA M last 12 months, all in the About 70 percent of you are expats living in have here is a microcosmTof the Vietnam. The rest of you are a mix of English-speaking space of 30 pages.

Vietnamese and people living overseas who like to look Whether you criticize, laugh, weep, reminisce or go in.

“Yes, so true”, we hope you enjoy this year’s Wordies.

Most of you are well-educated, to degree level And beware. Next year, we may even hold a ceremony. and above. And you work in a range of fields, from

By Jon Aspin, Owen Salisbury, Vu Ha Kim Vy, Jesse language teaching through to NGOs, from the left-field Meadows, Nick Ross, Kyle Phanroy and Julie Vola

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wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 65

The News Awards

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The ‘corporate Raiders of the Lost Ark’ award for making hay while the sun shines goes to…

The ‘General Motors award’ for get off the road if you wanna live forever you hippy goes to…

Across the Pacific

Traffic in Vietnam

THE WORDIES 2015

PERSON OF T HE Y EATPP, R or Trans-Pacific For those who don’t know, the Partnership, is an agreement in principle to liberalise 40% of the world’s economy. Vietnam is one its participants, seen by many to be a country ripe for the picking, as ‘step by step’ social reform and the reduction of import tariffs will open up 90 million people to the products and services of let’s say, countries like America. On the positive side, cheaper cars; on the negative side, cheaper cars.

Let’s see how this plays out; it’ll be a few years until all 12 countries ratify the agreement in their respective organs of power, giving uncompetitive, state-run industries like rice, time to get their act together. All we really want to know is, will we still be able to get our ca phe sua da and banh mi for the price of a postage stamp back home? And how about the price of beer? Is that affected?

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THE WORDIES 2015

THE TOP REST AURANTS IN VIEmonth Seems like just about every TNAMthis year we bore witness to yet another all-too-familiar tragic incident on the road that had us shaking our heads from the security of our computer terminals. Runaway trucks and exploding SUVs anyone? It seems that a solution is just around the corner, though. It turns out the powers that be aren’t so fond of the extravagant width of those pesky pavements that some foolhardy people use to actually walk on. Solution? Make them narrower, surely that way there’ll be more room for the anticipated influx of cars on the roads over the next few years and that’ll reduce accidents, right?

The ‘property magnate award’ for should I or shouldn’t I invest in this country goes to…

Foreigners Can Now Buy Property in Vietnam In July, a law came into effect meaning foreigners could finally invest in property in this country as individual owners. Since then, there hasn’t been the flood of title transfers some people were expecting, but it was always going to take time for people to get their heads around the rules — bureaucracy is important too, you know. The rules stipulate that you must be studying, working and living in the country to be eligible for a 50-year lease on a house or apartment. Magnates should look elsewhere, however, as you won’t be allowed to own more than 250 houses in any ward, which rules out that then, or more than 40 percent of any apartment building.

The ‘Fuji Film redface’ award for a whiteface doing a blackface on national Vietnamese TV goes to…

US Expat Celebrity Kyo York Does an Al Jolson Back in February, a stir was created when expat singer Kyo York, real name Lachlan York, performed Lionel Richie’s Hello, as Lionel Richie on the TV programme, Guong Mat Than Quen (Familiar Face). Obviously a believer in getting into character, and possibly under some pressure from the show’s producers, Kyo went full retard, so to speak, and painted his skin black to perform the 1980s hit. It went down a treat, not. He was roundly panned by expats living here, critical of his ‘highly offensive’ act. Meanwhile the local population didn’t seem to mind, and Kyo continues to appear on ads, sing on YouTube and generally poke his nose into local issues.

The ‘stay true to your local brew’ award for not keeping it real goes to…

Drink Local Beer Freedom of beer drinking took a hit in September in the North Central province of Ha Tinh, when seven education officials, let’s call them teachers, were warned by the administration for not drinking products from the local Saigon brewery. Summoned to a ‘meeting’ after an SMS was sent following an event at which the ‘secret seven’ did not consume any Saigon beer, they were then asked to make a ‘self-criticism’ report by the department secretariat. The teachers in question were tempted by the thrift-conscious attitudes of Doctor Zorok and his friend Bierre Larue. Or maybe they were too drunk to find the right convenience store, and purchased the offending brands in error.

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 67

The Development Awards Vincom Landmark 81 Building

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The ‘let there be TV!’ award for outstanding air quality goes to...

Duyen Hai Power Station

The ‘Burj al Arab luxurious luxury’ award for luxurious luxury goes to...

Nhon Ly Golf and Resort Complex The first tranche of the massive new coal-fired plant, FLC Group began construction on the proposed located in Mu U Hamlet, became commercially THE WORDIES THE WORDIES THE WORDIES THE WORDIES (US$160 million) Nhon Ly operational in June after several years’ construction. 2015 300-hectare, VND3.5 trillion2015 2015 2015 Golf Course and Resort Complex in Binh Dinh province When completed, it will consist of three roughly equal THE TOP E TO HEother TOPtwo THnext THE TOP DESTI units, T the on stream in the few P BEERClast May. NIGcoming CAFES HTCLU NATIO N S LUBS S B IN VIET IN VIET IN VIET INproject, VIETNA The centerpiece of the the years.

NAM NAM NAM M resort, has been described as Vietnam’s first to qualify for a seven-star Costing a cool US$5.3 billion (VND119 trillion), the rating, an accolade which is poorly understood, but will power plant will eventually provide 4,305MW of power become clearer when the place opens for business in the in Tra Vinh province, enough to power 2.8 million first quarter of next year. electricity-gobbling Western-style homes.

It could mean that it’s slightly more than twice The plant is being built by a consortium of Chinese, as good as a three-star hotel, or it could be that the Japanese and Malaysian companies under the beachfront villas will contain luxuries unknown to the management of Vietnam Electricity, and will allow mind of man. millions, should they so choose, to waste their time THE WORDIES THE WORDIES The complex will include gourmet restaurants, watching reruns of Paris by Night.

The plant covers 879 hectares of coastal land and its 2015 entertainment and convention centres.

2015 Located in Quy Nhon City adjacent to Eo Gio (Windy brooding presence could easily lead it to end up on the E TOP RES PERSON OF T cover of a future Vietnamese rock album T orHserve as the TAUStrait) R ANTthe S complex will boast views of what are reputed HE YEAR I to be the most spectacular sunsets in Vietnam. lair of a post-apocalyptic movie super-villain. N VIETNAM

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The ‘respect the pedestrian’ award for urban beautification goes to...

Nguyen Hue’s Reopening Nguyen Hue Boulevard reopened on Wednesday, Apr. 28 just in time for the 40th anniversary celebration of Reunification Day. The newly opened civic centrepiece featured a major Reunification Day fireworks display, launched from Bitexco’s helipad.

The 670-meter boulevard closed last year, and despite musical fountains and decorative lighting, is still not quite complete. Underground parking lots are still in progress.

It also takes a deceptively long time to drive around if one happens to make a wrong turn in the confusing tangle of downtown streets. Ho Chi Minh City has enough one-way streets without making people drive almost a kilometer because they can’t remember where Dong Du actually begins.

Over 200 trees grace the boulevard, which also contains automatic misters and hundreds of tubs of flowering plants to refresh visitors in the pedestrianonly central area.

The lack of motorbikes blasting through the pedestrian area is the most refreshing feature. It will last, too.

The ‘let’s get filthy rich’ award for amazing entrepreneurial spirit goes to...

The Reported 14,000 IT Startups begun since 2000 Despite having essentially zero high-tech companies at the turn of the millennium, Vietnam now boasts approximately 14,000 IT companies, spanning content, code and hardware.

Crucial to the country’s future prosperity, this explosive growth is partly due to the 2020 Master Plan, which aims to create domestic replacements for many imported high-tech goods, expand broadband to the majority of rural villages, and provide mobile broadband coverage to nearly 100% of the population by 2020.

Approved in 2011, the plan may also put Vietnam into the top third of wired-up countries, according to the International Telecommunication Union.

The economic vibrance and demographic promise of Vietnam have lured back many foreign-educated Vietnamese and a number of foreign companies, in addition to the home-grown start-ups.

The vast majority are centered in Ho Chi Minh City, Danang and Hanoi. Vietnam boasts an IT workforce of over 180,000, and that number is going to rise.

The ‘sci-fi skyline’ award goes to...

The Vincom Landmark 81 Building British architectural firm Atkins and British engineering firm Arup has begun work on the 460-metre Vincom Landmark 81 building in the Vinhomes Central Park area by the Saigon River.

Rising from a square base, the 241,000m2 building will be made of 25 sub-units of different heights, clearly referencing the exorbitantly priced Burj Khalifa building in Dubai. It will totally out-sci-fi the shockingly costly starship-shaped Bitexco Tower.

Local media reports suggest that this will be one of the projects to benefit from legal changes allowing foreigners to buy houses in Vietnam. On the other hand, those same sources say that Landmark 81 is also conveniently connected to the Ho Chi Minh City Metro, so who knows.

Some of the shorter units will be topped with rooftop gardens, the sort that get used as sets for over-priced, high-end cosmetics commercials and soap operas about rich people who can afford lavish lifestyles without actually working.

The building will include a five-star hotel, serviced apartments, and retail space, all aimed at the top-end market, or above.

The building is scheduled to be completed in 2017.

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 69

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The Technology News AwardsAwards THE WORDIES 2015 TECHNOLOGY AWARD S

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For making Vietnam into the IT hub that it was always meant to be THE WORDIES 2015

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The Bphone

70 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

The ‘most likely to be sued by Apple and Google simultaneously” award goes to...

The ‘VR>RL’ award for social isolation goes to...

Bphone

Everybody in Vietnam

A Vietnamese company is finally producing smartphones — and it’s about time.

The self-styled ‘World Smartphone Masterpiece’ uses BOS, an Android-based operating system, and comes with pre-installed apps for internet phone calls. They also state that they are the first smartphone with firewall technology.

Manufacturer BKAV offers three versions, ranging from VND10.9 million for the 16GB edition to VND22.2 million for the 128GB Limited Edition, making them ... totally not cheaper than the competition. The phones can be bought on instalment at 0% interest, at least for now. By comparison, a 32GB Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge initially retailed for VND19.9 million, or VND8 million if you bought from an unauthorised source.

BKAV also manufactures accessories and related smart devices. According to BKAV’s English text, the phone itself offers a technological platform comparable to industry leaders such as Samsung, Sony and Apple, as do other lower-priced competitors coming out of China and Taiwan.

The Bphone is available in stores nationwide. Whether it catches on here — let alone abroad — is another matter.

Everybody has smartphones these days. Your local veggie seller? She does. Your motorbike mechanic?

Rocking an iPhone 5. The gaggle of little kids in school uniforms? All tucked behind smartphones except for that one kid with the tablet. (And the lame kid with the flip phone, but we don’t talk about him).

Then there’s the guy selling a couple dozen of them off a blanket on Ba Thang Hai, next to the bearded, grumpy dude selling faux-folk art and the old lady selling wallets and belts.

Globally, smartphones and related items like tablets are probably the most influential pieces of technology since the internet itself. They’ve now conquered Vietnam, too, mere months before Starbucks’ scheduled takeover bid.

At least we’re all using them for serious, high-minded stuff.

The ‘five experts, six opinions’ award goes to...

Internet Speed Rankings Speaking of the internet, how fast does it actually run here in Vietnam? Several competing studies are making the internet rounds.

One new global survey ranks Vietnam as the 99th fastest country in the world for connection speeds, despite an increase of 300Gbps since 2013. Akamai Technologies put Vietnam’s average user speed at 2.5Mbps, tied with the Philippines and just above India.

It ranks as the slowest country in Southeast Asia.

Except that Internet World Stars ranked Vietnam’s download speeds as 17.54Mbps, behind only China and Thailand.

Or perhaps it’s 57th in the world, second only to Singapore in Southeast Asia, as told by Netindex.com.

But who cares, right? As long as it’s fast enough to stream HD cat videos on YouTube and incite vitriolic flame wars about how much Game of Thrones has deviated from the novels, we’re warm and snuggly inside that soothing blue glow.

The ‘don’t blame the sharks’ award for apoplectically slow download rage goes to...

Power leaks, weather, anchors and fishing Internet slowdowns caused by problems in the AAG (Asia-America Gateway) fibre-optic cable in 2015 beat last year’s record, with four distinct events. Vietnam experienced slowdowns starting Jan. 5, Apr. 13, May 26 and Jun. 7.

The cable connects many Asian countries to the US. A new trans-Pacific trunk connecting the same regions is scheduled for completion in 2016.

Despite the viral 2010 YouTube video, experts and evidence tend to agree; it isn’t the sharks. Although attracted by the cables’ electrical fields, sharks can’t bite through the Kevlar, plastic, fibreglass, copper, aluminium and even steel casings. The shark meme has proved popular, however, being cited by websites like The Daily Dot. Reliable information is hard to come by, with many sources giving not only contradictory causes, but conflicting dates, locations and lengths of outages. One source even claimed a fifth event, from late January to early February. Experts claim anchors and fishing as the most likely cause, except when they say it’s power failures in cable segments. Or weather.

The 20,000km-long trans-Pacific cable was severed on Jan. 5, though no cause was given by AAG reps at that time.

April’s month-long event was caused by “power leakage”, a term of nearly Star Trekkian scientific vagueness. In May, after only two weeks of normal internet speeds, the cable again reportedly suffered a cut of unknown, or at least unstated, origin.

June’s slowdown was the result of AAG engineers putting in some much-needed maintenance. After a twoweek refit, connections have remained speedy since.

Or maybe AAG finally applied shark repellent.

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 71

The Best Events of 2015

THE WORDIES 2015 BEST EVENT S YEAR AW OF THE ARDS

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The parties, sporting events, music festivals and anniversaries that tickled your fancy THE WORDIES 2015

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Oktoberfest The annual German beer festival that developed out of Munich has become increasingly popular in both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. While the southern city had a THE WORDIES full week, from Oct. 8 to Oct. 17, of German food, drink 2015 and music at Windsor Plaza, Hanoi celebrated over three THE TOP REST AURANTS days from Oct. 22 to Oct. 24, at JW Marriot. More than IN VIET 15,000 beer lovers attended the festival in Ho Chi Minh NAM City and around 4,500 rocked up in Hanoi.

Other beer festivals were also hosted the same month in both cities, starting with the Belgian Beer Festival (Oct. 3) in Hanoi and the Craft Beer Fest (Oct. 10) at Saigon Outcast. The festive atmosphere even reached into November with Hanoi Beer Fest on Nov. 15 at Eden Garden and the five-day exBEERience at SC Vivo City in Saigon. If you were wondering, yes, it’s true. Vietnam consumes the most beer of any country in ASEAN.

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Quest Festival 2015 Featured even in The Guardian, the latest edition of the Quest Festival was again held at Son Tinh Camp, Ba Vi National Park, luring more than 1,000 attendees.

Set up with three big stages, the three-day event (Nov. 6 to Nov. 8) featured about 80 performances from 30 local and international DJs and 10 bands. There was also other entertainment including workshops, yoga sessions, fire performances, art installations, theatre and water activities. Thanks to its growing success, Quest is expected to spawn versions in Danang and Ho Chi Minh City in the near future.

The 70th Anniversary of National Day

Above AND Beyond

Hanoi celebrated 70 years of independence on Sep. 2 with the involvement of more than 30,000 people for a parade around 40 specially closed-off streets. Other activities included a flag-raising ceremony, a 21-gun salute, and a speech by President Truong Tan Sang.

Fireworks displays were also conducted at five places across Hanoi, including Hoan Kiem Lake, Thong Nhat Park, Van Quang Lake, My Dinh Stadium, and West Lake. Around 10 large screens were installed in public places around the capital for people to watch the celebration live. This one was big.

More than one month after the performance of Zedd in Ho Chi Minh City, English trance band Above & Beyond came to Vietnam for a one-night gig on Sep. 19. Despite the absence of one band member, Above & Beyond still attracted 6,000 fans. Held at the Ho Tram Strip Resort, the event was a music feast with contributions from international and local DJs including Mike Hoa, Thuc Nguyen, Providence of Singapore and Dutch duo 16 Bit Lolita’s. Above & Beyond also organised interaction with the crowd by displaying their lyrics on a big screen, and played a game called Push the Button in which a person was randomly picked to get the music the band turned off back on.

Ironman 70.3 Vietnam

ASEAN Pride Festival 2015

Held in Danang on May 10, the Ironman 70.3 Vietnam attracted more than 1,000 international and local participants from 54 countries. It offered a prize of US$15,000 and 30 final qualifying places for the Ironman 70.3 World Championship taking place in Austria on Aug. 28 next year.

The triathlon race consisted of a 1.9km-ocean swim in front of the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa, a 90km bike ride and a 21km run along Danang’s coastline in 35°C heat. At the end of the race, South Africa’s James Cunnama and Switzerland’s Caroline Steffen took home the victories. Next year’s Ironman 70.3 Vietnam will also be hosted in Danang.

Following the success of the ASEAN Pride Festival 2014, this year’s event was once again hosted jointly by the US Embassy in Hanoi and CAMA Vietnam on Jun. 20 at the American Club, Hanoi. Celebrating the 20th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Vietnam and the US, the event featured the participation of the US Ambassador to Vietnam, Ted Osius, and his husband, Clayton Bond. Regarded as the biggest LGBT event in Vietnam, last year’s event focused on freedom of expression while this year aimed to raise an awareness of being accepted by families. It was a combination of music and other entertaining activities.

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 73

The Facebook User Awards

A testament to Vietnam’s favourite social media site…

Twitter?

You’re havin’ a laugh!

THE WORDIES 2015 THE FACEBO OK USER AWARD S

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e wanted to do some awards for the annual troll of the year or the best commenter, or even the best posts. But not wanting to encourage all those people who rip other people to shreds — yes, you know who THE WORDIES you are — we instead decided to focus on a different 2015 type of award. The Facebook User Awards.

So, what type of Facebook user are you? Maybe you’ll THE TOP DESTI NATIO N S fall into one category, maybe you’ll fall into many. One IN VIET thing’s for sure, like the rest of Vietnam, you’re most NAM likely obsessed with this social media site by now. Our response? Get a life!

for unlucky or disadvantaged people’ posted years ago still get shared even though the kids were found and those people already have a better life. Come on, who needs help here?

3) Comment Readers The award for ‘reading the most comments possible in one day’ It’s easy to find those commenters. They usually show up in debated topics with a sentence “I just come here to read comments!” and rofl icons. No, they are helpless and harmless but distracting.

1) Like First

4) What is it?

The ‘like as many posts and comments as possible’ award

The award for ‘jumping to conclusions the fastest’

Whenever you post or share something on your wall, they will press the like button after a few seconds and leave just like they are afraid that they will miss other threads. What did they like? Maybe the titles. Or maybe they’re just trigger-happy, like all those cowboys in the old spaghetti westerns.

Those who are too lazy to click on and read posted articles, but will type: “What is it?” instead. After the summary given by someone else, they often jump to a conclusion: “That’s the reason why I didn’t read it!”

2) Share without Reading the Thread The ‘share and share alike’ award Similar to the first type, but this time it’s the share button. Some threads like ‘missing kids’ or ‘fundraisings

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5) Teachers The award for ‘correcting grammar and spelling’ Acting as if it’s their real job, these people will quickly find out how many grammatical and spelling mistakes you have made on your posts. If we could see their facial reactions to teenagers’ posts, it would be priceless.

6) Copy and Paste The ‘I know how to use CTRL +C and CTRL +V’ award In order to draw people’s attention to their shared articles, they copy and paste what they think are the best lines. Or maybe they simply think that way they can help people understand more.

7) Taggers The ‘piss everyone off’ award New products? Tagged! Photos of a vacation? Tagged!

A video where a cat is singing a song? Tagged! They just love tagging everything, even if those threads have nothing to do with you.

8) Google It The ‘Why the hell are you asking this question on Facebook?’ award Google needs to have a true marketing campaign for its ability to answer everything, given all the silly questions that are posted on Facebook groups. How long does it take to get an answer on Facebook compared to Google?

Or let’s just pray that Google and Facebook will work together in the future. Fat chance!

9) Where is my post?

The ‘serial deleted poster’ award “I don’t know. Did you check the group’s rules? Did you break any rules?” is the best reply to those who keep posting that question on some Facebook groups. Tip:

You should either follow the rules or befriend one of the admins.

10) Excuse me let me leave the ad here!

The ‘ad spamming’ award They’ve just come here to leave their ad about their products or services no matter what the post is.

However, they are still nice and polite with the last sentence: “Sorry for posting it here!” attached at the end of the comment.

11) Trolls The ‘sad, lonely, unhappy people’ award They are usually not nice, friendly or mature people, and tend to be bullies. They might use words or pictures to make you annoyed and frustrated. Aiming to enjoy the frustration of others, their comments are usually offtopic or offensive. Tip: Block them or stop responding to them.

12) Racists The ‘get the f**k out of here’ award The problem doesn’t lie in your posts; it’s because they are racist. No matter what your thread is, they will find ways to insert racist opinions in their comments.

Seriously, your post could be a photo of chuoi cau (lady finger banana) and someone might comment “Why that small? Is it a Vietnamese banana?” They often finish their comment with “lol” or start with “I am not racist, but…” Be damned, the lot of them.

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Person of the Year THE WORDIES 2015 DEVELOPMENT

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Nguyen Thi Anh Vien THE WORDIES 2015

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PERSON OF T HE YEAR

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hen Australian swimmer Ian Thorpe burst onto the scene in the 2000 Summer Olympics at the tender age of 17, he became a household name. His three golds and two silvers earned him the coveted accolade of Young Australian of the Year. At the 2004 Summer Olympics in Athens, American teenage swimmer Michael Phelps not only repeated but surpassed the feat, winning six golds and two bronzes.

It is no surprise that the following this year’s exploits, young Vietnamese swimmer, Nguyen Thi Anh Vien, has also become a household name. Only on the scene since 2014, when she won a gold medal at the Youth Olympic Games in the 200m Individual Medley, her road to stardom was cemented in dramatic form earlier this year at the 2015 South East Asian (SEA) Games in Singapore. The Can Tho native won eight gold medals, one silver and one bronze. In modern-day Vietnamese sporting history, no one athlete has had such individual success as 19-year-old Vien, making her a natural choice for Person of the Year.

From Hometown Canal to World Beater Born in Ba Cau near Can Tho, a village split in two by a canal, Vien’s grandfather taught her to swim. With well over 10,000 children a year drowning in Vietnam, it was a wise move. Says her grandfather, like other kids “she was scared and at the beginning, couldn’t stop yelling at me.”

Yet Vien quickly showed a talent for all things aquatic, and in Grade 5 was chosen for the province’s Phu Dong tournaments. Thanks to her outstanding results, her name was placed on a list of talented athletes to enter the army sports training centre in Can Tho. At the age of 14, she took up her place.

Her first international medals were two silvers in the 2011 SEA Games. The following year she went to Florida to train and after this year’s success in Singapore, in

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October 2015 she was once again prominent, winning three more medals at the Military World Games in Mungyeong, South Korea. She is now in the US training for next year’s Olympics.

The Provider According to tuoitrenews.com, Vien has been earning around VND500 million a year since 2013 — this year, thanks to her performances at the SEA Games, she has brought in a total prize pot of VND1 billion.

Regarded as the only dong billionaire on Vietnam’s swimming scene, Vien still lives a simple life. She doesn’t own a mobile phone or have a personal Facebook account. The only thing connecting her with her family when she is on training trips is her Vietnamese coach Dang Anh Tuan’s mobile phone. The government pays for all her training and living costs to enable her to concentrate on her swimming.

What she does earn she gives to her parents, who now have a well-built house, modern furniture and other facilities. Vien was once was awarded a prize of eight motorbikes, televisions and mobile phones, which she later gave to her family.

The Motto Every story has two sides. Vien doesn’t enjoy the freedom that other teenagers would take for granted — a tight training and educational timetable takes care of that. She is now taking one-on-one classes for chemistry, maths, physics, literature, history, geography and English to prepare for her Grade 11 exams.

However, nothing takes away her passion for swimming. “I have won many medals and broken many records,” she said at this year’s SEA Games. “But I will not stop striving. If I become [satisfied] with what I have already achieved, I will become a loser right away. I don’t think about the achievements, I see every new day as a day in which I haven’t achieved anything.”

Photos by Nguyen Quang Liem

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The Best Restaurants in Vietnam

Sorae Sushi

The Top 10* Ho Chi Minh City**

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Au Lac Do Brazil Au Parc Cuc Gach Quan El Gaucho Lubu Pizza 4Ps Quan Ut Ut Racha Room Saffron Sorae Sushi Lounge Trois Gourmands

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Cousins Da Paolo Daluva Don’s Tay Ho El Gaucho French Grill La Badiane Maison de Tet Decor Moose & Roo Smokehouse The Republic *The restaurants in these lists have been organized in alphabetical order

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hat makes a good restaurant? A range of things — food, service, décor, ambience, concept, price, consistency, authenticity and, what is so often forgotten, marketing.

This was evident when we asked our 75 judges which places they thought were the best restaurants in Vietnam. In both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, only six restaurants stood out from the rest of the pack.

Four of these were down south, the other two in the capital, suggesting that these places have got most if not all of the good restaurant elements close to spot on.

Ho Chi Minh City As with last year, Pizza 4P’s, that well-loved funky Japanese pizza restaurant, topped the voting. But unlike in 2014, this time it shared top spot with last year’s joint runner-up, Argentinian steakhouse El Gaucho. With these two restaurants consistently hitting the top two, more interesting was who else made the top 10, or, due to equal numbers of votes, top 11.

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The massive and much-loved Sorae Sushi Lounge, a new addition to the list, jumped in at joint third with perhaps the best French restaurant in the city, the truffleoil-with-everything villa eatery, Trois Gourmands.

Also high up the list was the king of the American BBQ served up in a Vietnamese, quan nhau style setting, Quan Ut Ut. And not surprisingly, Thai street-food-with-atwist restobar, Racha Room, was also high up on your catalogue of favourite places.

The beautifully crafted and decorated Cuc Gach Quan was voted as your favourite Vietnamese restaurant, with four joints coming in with equal votes at joint eighth: Au Parc, Lubu, Saffron and Au Lac Do Brazil. All are worthy top-tens.

Ho Chi Minh City has a growing collection of outstanding restaurants, so we would like to do some shout-outs for three newcomers. First up is Danishinspired, contemporary European restaurant, cafe and bar, MAD House. We love this place, love the concept, and are overjoyed that this restaurant made it into the top 20. Also on our ‘yes we are happy’ list is Stoker.

Restaurants in the Top 20* Ho Chi Minh City** Bahdja Blanchy’s Street Boat House Ciao Bella MAD House Ocean Palace Stoker The Deck Vesper Lounge

Hanoi a la Folie Amato Cau Go Vietnamese Restaurant Dieu’s Cuisine Foodshop 45 KAfe Linguini Fini Mediterraneo Namaste Pots ‘n Pans *The restaurants in these lists have been organized in alphabetical order

cousins

When it comes to the quality of their steaks, this recently opened meatfest parlour gives even El Gaucho a solid run for its money. But hit their creative cocktails and Stoker is a true stand-out. And of course, don’t forget Relish & Sons, an eatery that is putting the ‘b’ back into burgers. We are well into the idea of gourmet hamburgers and are happy that together with its rival, Soul Burger, it is leading the way to bringing these creative objects of mouth-watering pleasure to our city.

And don’t forget another top-20 entrant, Badjha.

Hanoi If you’re going to focus on the level of the food — the range that is aspired to — then Da Paolo and Cousins are not the ‘top’ two restaurants in Hanoi. Yet, Da Paolo puts the ‘i’ back into Italian and the ‘a’ back in authentic, and what it serves up is classic Italian fare, done very well. Cousins is similar; Mediterranean and contemporary European cuisine in a close-to-the-lake, garden setting. Once again, the food is excellent.

So when it comes to other factors; consistency,

popularity, price and genuinely tasty cuisine, then according to your voting, Cousins and Paolo’s win hands down. However, our readers also liked El Gaucho and The Republic (joint third), the excellent French Grill in the JW Marriott (fifth), Maison de Tet Décor, La Badiane, Don’s Tay Ho, Moose & Roo Smokehouse and Daluva. That suggests that you have a range of contrasting tastes when it comes to dining out.

A special shout out for Daluva, who finally made it into the top 10. Their food has always been top-notch, now they seem to have got bums on seats to match. Another shout for the city’s newcomers — The Republic, French Grill and Moose & Roo Smokehouse — which, despite having opened within the last 15 months or so, have already captured your hearts. And finally a fist pump for the restaurants who’ve got to the top and managed to stay there — Don’s Tay Ho and La Badiane. Being so well established makes it hard to compete with the trendier, new-in-town upstarts. Yet somehow you’re both staying on top of your game. You should be proud!

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The Top Bars in Vietnam

The Top 10* Glow

Ho Chi Minh City Blanchy’s Tash Chill Skybar Glow Martini Bar / 2 Lam Son Saigon Lookout Sorae The Deck Vesper Bar Wine Embassy Xu

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arlier this year we published an article about an inner-city bar crawl one of our staff members took in Melbourne, which is well known for its beautifully designed bars. We said then that Vietnam is well on its way to catching up, and with several new entries on this years shortlist, it does appear that the drinking scene here is going from WORDIES strength toTHE strength.

Certainly, well 2015 gone are the days when you didn’t need much more than a suitcase full of dreams, or a RSOto N run troubledPEpast away before you set up your OF T HE Yfrom, EA R own establishment here. Today’s bar entrepreneurs in Vietnam are for the most part seasoned professionals, bringing experience from all over the world to bear on Vietnam’s burgeoning bar culture.

What’s also encouraging is the variety of bars that got a mention in 2015. Far from being full of high-end rooftops and VIP cocktail bars, new names like Bia Craft and Shrine in Ho Chi Minh City and Sidewalk and Unicorn in Hanoi encourage us to believe that variety will continue to be the spice of life in our tropical drinking paradise.

Ho Chi Minh City For the second year running, our judges have voted Xu as Saigon’s top bar. Now, even though this caused some confusion among staff members at Word HQ;

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Hanoi THE WORDIES 88 Lounge 2015

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Barbetta BEST EVENCama TS OF ATK TH E YEAR AW Don’sAOyster RDS Bar Madake Red River Tea Room Summit Lounge Sunset Bar Tadioto The Republic

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(“I never ever go there” was heard more than once), the result shouldn’t be that much of a surprise. For those that like their bars with a big dose of high-energy music, an equally energetic crowd and the chance to, er, meet someone ‘special’ who’s probably quite well dressed, Xu isn’t a bad place at all.

Following closely behind was Vesper Lounge, one THE WORDIES of those places that has long titillated the after-work 2015 crowd. The fact that it serves up some of the best, creative tapas in this city is also part of its appeal.

THE TOP REST A GLOW, which has Coming in third was new entrant IN VIET URANTS N AMwith glamorous been cramming our Facebook feed pictures of any number of high-end rooftop parties they’ve been hosting since opening this year.

After that, our judges voted for a cluster of bars, with eight finishing close in the voting stakes, including Saigon Lookout, a new hotspot built in an old art-deco mansion, which has been hosting regular singles nights for what appear to be the best-looking people in the city, not to mention what looked like a pretty killer Halloween Party.

Also making its debut on the list was Thao Dien’s new favourite, Bia Craft. Born out of the growing trend towards ‘beer that doesn’t appreciate your mainstream lifestyle’, Bia Craft has quickly gained a following by serving ten ‘small-batch’ craft beers that are all locally made, with no TVs or unnecessary frills to distract you.

Red River Tea Room

bars in the Top 20* Ho Chi Minh City Air 360 Bia Craft Carmen Bar Game On La Fenetre Soleil Last Call O’Brien’s Pasteur Street Phatty’s Racha Room

Hanoi +84 21 North HRC Sidewalk Binh Minh’s Jazz Club Rooftop Été Bar Hero Bar Rockstore Son Tinh Lounge Bar *The bars in these lists have been organized in alphabetical order

Only slightly more popular is the father of craft beer in this city, the Pasteur Street Brewing Company, and rightly so. The beer here is excellent.

Also in that category of eight is Martini Bar, an old favourite for long-time residents, Chill Skybar, Blanchy’s Tash, and The Deck which all gathered votes last year and are well known to local residents.

The Deck is of particular interest as it has just opened a huge new space next door to the existing venue.

Dropping slightly down the list this year was Broma, undoubtedly affected by the Nguyen Hue closure for the first half of this year, though its refurb now looks great. Saigon Outcast, deciBel and The Observatory also took a slight dip in popularity, but last time we were at each of them, they were packed, a testament to the great job they’ve done in creating a self-sustaining community and continuing to serve up quality events.

The Australian sports bars, Phatty’s and Game On, also put in a good showing, as did one of our personal favourites, Racha Room, which finished just outside the top 10.

Hanoi Unlike with every other top 10 list we compiled, not one new watering hole managed to manoeuvre itself onto our shortlist. Instead it was the mainstays and established drinking venues that got your vote, with

Indochine-yet-contemporary Tadioto finishing top of the pile followed closely by Red River Tea Rooms.

That Red River has become such a favourite is in part due its West Lake location and views. It’s also due to its atmosphere. This is an unpretentious, no-frills bar that is conducive to good conversation.

West Lake continued to fare strongly in the top bar stakes, with no less than six venues featuring in the top 10. Besides Red River, The Republic, 88 Lounge, Don’s Oyster Bar, Madake and Sunset Bar all made the cut, the latter being only one of three hotel bars in the whole of Vietnam that got your vote. On the not-inWest-Lake list were funky events venue, CAMA ATK, and even funkier bar-cum-café Barbetta, while what was formerly the highest bar in town, Summit Lounge, continues to tickle your fancy.

What’s clear is that while hole-in-the-wall watering holes such as Mao’s Red Lounge and Spy Bar remain popular, the focus has changed. People want something a bit more upscale these days, and if not, they like something event-focused. As well as CAMA ATK, Don’s Oyster Bar, Madake and 88 Lounge, HRC, Son Tinh Lounge with its live sports and regular stand-up comedy, and Binh Minh Jazz Club made it into our top 20. Meaning that it’s not just going out for a nice tipple that gets the juices flowing, but entertainment, too.

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The Top Cafés in Vietnam L''Usine

The Top 10* Ho Chi Minh City Cafe RuNam Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Dolphy Highlands L'Usine M2C Cafe Mekong Merchant Starbucks The Loop The Workshop

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Maison de Tet Decor Cafe Manzi O'Douceurs Oriberry SpaceBar The Hanoi Social Club

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earing in mind we think our readership is enough of it, and it has become part of any visitor’s close to three-quarters expat, and that our must-do list. Whether it’s a touch of well-done Western judging panel reflects this, there are probably fare, a great spot to hook up and — let’s be honest — some names missing from this list that we people watch, the design-centric café and boutique think locals here would quickly pick as their number continues to lead the pack down south, clearly doing one or two. a great job at branding itself at the same time. Moving For example, we think Kujuz in Ho Chi Minh City’s into the top end for the first time is District 2’s Mekong THE THE WORDIES Station 3A is worth mentioning. Judging by our last WORDIES Merchant, a continual favourite of Thao Dien residents 2015 couple of visits, it is consistently packed with what 2015 looking for a familiar and relaxing place to connect in. you might describe as the ‘new Vietnam’; hip kids with It’s joined by consistent performer The Workshop, they THE TOP REST PERSON OF T pics to A of multiple brew options, which rounds out the podium HE YEAR DSLR cameras and a penchant for posting mood IN VIET URANTS Instagram, as far away from the chain-store freak art as NAM finishers. Café RuNam was tied for votes with the first they can get. Though we think they probably go there chain on our list, Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, who were with Mum and Dad too. As a relatively small team, we closely followed closely by counterparts Starbucks and can’t be everywhere, but we still think it’s important to Highlands, dare we even speak their names. acknowledge those who are doing a good job and who Also in District 2 is a new top ten entrant, and may not get the recognition they deserve. another prime people watching spot; Dolphy, which That said, it doesn’t make our list any less valid. A has quickly established itself as part of the community total of 75 judges have spoken on their favourite place after a refurb, and The Loop, which also extended its to get coffee, more than likely get some work done, or premises this year. Falling out of the upper echelons was simply shoot the breeze with friends in air-conditioned Work Saigon, which opened a new location in Bitexco comfort.

Tower, ID Café (rather surprisingly in our opinion), Fly Cupcake Garden and Mockingbird Café, which Ho Chi Minh City tumbled in terms of the votes they received, though we Topping the commercial capital’s list again this year, doubt in originality of style or quality. There’s never an and by a clear margin this time is L’Usine. Well-heeled exact science to these things. Completing the top ten was Vietnamese and expats alike just can’t seem to get M2C Café, which it’s fair to say takes heavy cues from

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cong caphe

cafes in the Top 20* Ho Chi Minh City Cafe Centro Caffe Bene Cuc Gach Cafe ID Cafe La Rotonde Loft Cafe Phuc Long The Coffee Factory Urban Station Vintage Emporium

Hanoi Annam Cafe Bohemia Café Duy Tri Cafe Pho Co D'Alice KAfe village Les Amis Nha San Puku Six Degrees *The cafés in these lists have been organized in alphabetical order

our top spot, and remains popular with tourists fresh from their must-do trip to the War Museum.

Hanoi Topping the list of the capital’s coffee spots is Cong Caphe. The mini-chain now boasts 16 locations, all consistently decked out in Communist-inspired garb and still whipping up delicious coconut coffees since their start in 2007.

Knocked from the top this year is Hanoi Social Club, loved for its cozy vibes and veggie-friendly fare, and the occasional night of intimate live music that you’ll probably miss if you don’t have your finger on the pulse.

Self-professed advocate of all things fair trade, Tay Ho’s Oriberry has risen in the ranks to third place. Is it that locally-sourced array of coffees and teas? Or the unique handmade pottery for sale? Or could it be those epic views of West Lake we can’t get enough of?

Coffee awareness seems to be a growing trend, with Maison de Tet Decor Cafe hot on the heels of its West Lake neighbour. Occupying a beautiful villa filled to the brim with flawless decor, the cafe has recently begun roasting its own locally-sourced beans on site.

The creative among us prefer Manzi Artspace, a café on a mission to be Hanoi’s home for all things art. When you want to sip a smoothie and discuss aesthetics, head

to this quaint Ba Dinh villa.

Vietnam’s first ‘urban fusion café chain’ (whatever that means), KAfe is spreading like wildfire. Featuring trendy global fare complete with a photograph-heavy menu that feels like a food magazine, the brand recently landed US$5.5 million worth of foreign financing for expansion.

Another wildly popular chain, Joma, holds its own on the list with its white-bread, all-American values. But you know, there’s something about a BLT and a two-forone Americano that we still just can’t resist.

The only French patisserie to make the cut, O’Douceurs, makes a mean cake. We’re talking ohmy-God, angels-in-your-mouth, ready-to-die-happy cake. This place didn’t make it to the #1 Dessert spot on Tripadvisor for nothing.

And though we’re mostly talking about consumables here, Spacebar is the only café famous around town for a non-edible reason: its WiFi. Co-working is taking off across the urban landscape, and on any given day, you’ll find a whole host of Hanoi’s young professionals here, clattering away on their keyboards with a home-made banana bread in arm’s reach.

Rounding out the list is the Kitchen, Tay Ho’s familyfriendly brunch mecca, featuring all-day breakfast and quality Mexican fare. Not just a pretty café, they also host regular quiz nights popular with the expat crowd.

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The Top Nightclubs in Vietnam hero

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nce the darling of Vietnam’s penchant for nightlife, nightclubs have taken a battering at the hand of beer clubs. Yet, some of this country’s late-night establishments still manage to pull in the crowds. Not just in their ones and twos, but in their thousands. Here are the top THE WORDIES three nightclubs (according to you, the reader) in 2015 Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

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IETNAM Saigon seems to be the Vietnamese city that never sleeps. So where is everyone way past their bedtime?

Apparently a lot of you are still frequenting Apocalypse Now, a club that opened in 1991, so is probably older than most of its patrons. That it’s top of the list suggests that the music policy is not so high on the party-going agenda. But hey, with a run that long, they must be throwing their parties right.

The list hasn’t changed much since we tallied up the numbers last year. Your second favourite place to be a wastecase is Lush, 10 years young and credited with bringing some of EDM’s bigger names to Vietnam.

And last but probably most interesting is The Observatory, the youngest club in the line-up, detouring from the high-heeled untz-untz vibe of its predecessors in search of a more cultured experience.

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We loathe to say things ‘hipster’ and ‘underground’, but when a club brings in the leftfield roster of DJs that ‘Obs’ does, it’s kind of hard not to.

Hanoi Compared to its southern cousin, Hanoi’s nightclub scene is somewhat of a pubescent 16-year-old, sneaking out through the window and giggling about getting away with staying up so late. But oh, is she growing up fast.

Did you see those Instagram pics she posted of the Skrillex show at Hero Bar? It’s apparently Hanoi’s new favourite place to let loose. She likes to climb up in those cages hanging over the crowd and dance like nobody’s watching. (Except everyone is. You can stop now, table of entrepreneurs in the corner. Okay, it’s getting weird.)

On Saturdays she rides the backpacker bus to Eden Garden (yes, they ship them in by the busload).

The cover is 100K, but it includes two free drinks of whatever the hell is in that unmarked bottle. And when she’s in the mood for velvet ropes and laser lights, she hits The Bank. Three rooms of varying genres makes this as close as Hanoi can get to a megaclub, though it’s fallen a few places since last year in favour of those raunchier newcomers.

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hen it comes to beer clubs, we’re betting couldn’t find room for the likes of 1820, Beer & Grill, there’s still a large part of the population Dmax, Shooter Beer House and Yoyo. Anyone want who’d prefer to give them a wide berth. to form a superstar rap group?

The stereotype of loud music, “Towers Hanoi of Power” and scantily clad “DJs” is an image that’s The Czechs, it seems, are everyone’s favourite this year, pretty hard to shake.

THE WORDIES WORDIES WORDIES Vietnam’s original microbrewery Hoa Vien topping However, while THE they persist, beer clubs to us are THE with 2015 2015 2015 the list. Although now grouped in with beer clubs — nothing but good clean fun, and because there’s a essentially it’s the same concept, just without the scantily bucket-load of B them in Vietnam, they’re part of our EST WORD THE TOP REST PERSON clad PH A OF TDJs Hoa Vien owes more to its Central European Wordie Awards for the second year running…

OTO S HE— IN VIET URANTS YEAR OF 2015 NAM roots than to the Vietnamese adaptation so famously Ho Chi Minh City created by Vuvuzela when they mixed Hooters and Our readers think that Vuvuzela is the number nightclub-style EDM with the concept of the traditional one beer club in Saigon this year; they were the brauhaus. creators of this genre, and they’re still the beacon of a That Vuvuzela finished third in our list suggests that phenomenon that doesn’t yet look like slowing down. despite their almost clichéd popularity, they remain Taking over from last year’s number one MOB, the one of the beer clubs to go in the capital. However, it’s original beer club with great aesthetics, Vuvuzela now another Czech-influenced brewery that has knocked has branches everywhere. Theirs is a success story, them out of the top two — Pilsner Urquell. And you and they’ve been spreading it throughout the country. know why? Well, the beer’s good.

It must be said that voting this year was much more And let’s not forget the growing chain of Hanoi even, with newer names like Kingdom, POC, One favourite, Beer 2KU, which came in a close fourth — Plus and Hops all garnering votes. TAPS, which we beer club meets the cheaper, wooden-styled quan nhau featured in the pages of this magazine recently, also drinking restaurant. Yet don’t be fooled. Their recently received some love, the only bar we know where you opened creation on Quang An in West Lake even has a can buy beer by the hour! Pre-beer club originals Hoa swimming pool. Perfect for cooling off after a night of Vien Brauhaus and the similarly named Brauhaus too many beers? Hmmmm… With pool parties all the were also not forgotten, part of a top 10 that just rage these days, maybe it is.

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The Top Destinations in Vietnam Hoi an

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e like to travel — just read through the pages of this worthy publication and you’ll see how much we have the bug. Yet, what members of our editorial team feel are the best destinations in this country differs with the votes of you, our readers.

Top of our own list is Ha Giang, the most northerly and, in our estimation, the most beautiful province in Vietnam. This is closely followed by Phong Nha, home of the world’s largest cave, and the islands of Con Dao, perhaps the wildest spot in Vietnam.

So when we saw Hoi An coming out unequivocally as your favourite destination, our hearts dropped. Well, not exactly. Hoi An is everything a holiday spot should be. A charming old town with good shopping and entertainment, a place serving up quality cuisine that is also home to top-notch accommodation. And of course, Hoi An has the beach. Not just any old beach. Places like An Bang — at least for now — are unequivocally ‘cool’.

A lot of love was also shown for Phu Quoc — in Hanoi, you voted it as your fourth favourite destination, while in Ho Chi Minh City it came a close second. Dalat was equally well-liked, coming in third for Saigonese and sixth for Hanoians. But beyond this convergence of opinions, everything else depended on where you live.

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The Difference Sapa is one of those tried and trusted destinations that give us mountains, fresh air, views and, ethnic minorities in traditional dress. For people from Saigon, the magic is still there — those terraced rice fields and Sunday love markets tickle your imagination. But in Hanoi? No thanks. You see, Hanoians have caught onto Ha Giang. And once you’ve been there, seen the Dong Van Pass and driven through those mountains and valleys, Sapa just fades into insignificance.

Hanoians have also got Mai Chau — the mountain valley populated by ethnic Thai — four to five hours from the capital, and Ninh Binh, often known as ‘Halong Bay on Land’ thanks to its limestone karsts peeking up above the paddies. While down south there is a love for Nha Trang, that city that has been at the butt of too many Travel & Leisure ‘let’s destroy an industry’ articles, Saigonese also still seem to be infatuated with Halong Bay — hmmmmm. Yet they also have their own little secret; the islands of Con Dao (their sixth favourite destination). Come on everyone from up north, you need to explore this one.

So, without further ado, here are our judges’ top travel destinations in Vietnam:

Ha Long Bay

Overall Ordered from one to five Hoi An Phu Quoc Dalat Sapa Halong Bay

As voted by Hanoians Ordered from one to five Hoi An Ha Giang Mai Chau Phu Quoc Ninh Binh

As voted by Saigonese Ordered from one to five Hoi An Phu Quoc Sapa Nha Trang Halong Bay

Phu Quoc

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PERSON OF T HE YEAR

THE TOP REST A IN VIET URANTS NAM

THE WORDIES 2015

THE WORD 2015

THE TOP DESTI N IN VIET NAM

The best images published in 2015

BEST WORD PHOTOS OF 2015

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ur readers regularly tell us about the quality of the photography. So, for the first time, this year we’ve decided to pick out what we believe are the best of the best. But only those

The Mood Therapist Vu Bao Khanh Have you ever seen a bartender suited up like a scientist? Richard McDonough, the self-styled mood therapist, will never cease to amaze you with his cocktails, all made from lab equipment.

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images shot by people directly on our team.

Here is our very own, personal testament to the art of photography. We hope you enjoy the images as much as we enjoyed shooting them.

Honey Francis Xavier Honey was born in Vietnam but spent half her life living in Europe; she only recently moved back. The contrast between her aethestic and the decay of the old building was so perfect the moment she stood there, that I had to take this shot. It’s my best one yet.

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Word Photos of the Year

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Banh It Nick Ross The Cham temples in Binh Dinh, Central Vietnam. Early morning; perfectly blue sky; shooting into the sun. Sometimes the shots work, sometimes they don't. This one came out perfect.

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Word Photos of the Year

Hands Free Kyle Phanroy Battle of the Year Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City. Proper technique, skill and patience can lead to nothing without a whole lot of luck.

This one was on the money.

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Nebula Vietnam Trung Del A great event in Hanoi for skateboarders to have a chance to hang out and show off their skills. But there was more than that.

This event was part of Nebula’s work in teaching life skills.

The shots I got, reflected this.

Falconry at West Lake Natalia Martinez There are a number of falconry enthusiasts around Hanoi’s West Lake area. The warm sparkles that occur when the sun goes down are simply perfect for capturing a few beautiful shots; these photogenic birds will do the rest.

The Flower Seller Julie Vola Ly was sweet and oh so shy. She could not believe I found her beautiful. At first she posed awkwardly, waiting for me to take a photo, but I did not stop and so she let go. She has such a large genuine smile, that the shots could not be anything but perfect.

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Word Photos of the Year

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On To The Next Bride Jesse Meadows Mai, a Viet Kieu bride, throws her bouquet at the end of her Western wedding ceremony on the Red River in Hanoi.

She had two weddings that day — the first, traditional, the second, modern. I was exhausted after photographing them both, but this shot was one of those happy accidents that always ends up being my favourite.

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Food and Drink

MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

KOTO Van Mieu Despite being a ‘training’ restaurant, KOTO has long been a Hanoi favourite. After years in the game, how does this eatery opposite the Temple of Literature fare? Photos by Julie Vola

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hen you first walk in to KOTO, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d suddenly been whisked away to the Western world. The whole restaurant is often packed to the brim with middle-aged foreigners, as it is popular with the tour groups that visit the Temple of Literature across the street.

This was the case on the particular weekday that I decided to go. At the door the welcoming but stressed-out host looked incredulous when I told him my friend and I did not have a reservation, the noise from the large dining room behind him serving to underscore my stupidity. He was only fazed for a minute, however,

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and pointed us up the stairs to try another room. The top-floor dining room also being full, we were taken to the Temple Bar, a much quieter space on the second level, where they somehow managed to seat us immediately.

The quality of service at KOTO quickly stood out for me. In spite of the lunchtime rush, there were plenty of waiting staff who were eager to help us find a spot, smiling as they did so. KOTO stands for Know One, Teach One and is a social enterprise dedicated to providing disadvantaged youth with education and training in hospitality. Most of the restaurant staff, from the front of house to the kitchen, are either on the programme or are graduates.

The Vietnamese Options At the Temple Bar we sat on cushy red banquette seats, sipping juice and a blushing Santa, a fruity concoction made with watermelon and apple juice, and fresh mint (VND70,000). The other two rooms we’d seen were both big and bright and clean, but had a cafeteria-like feel, with large paper lanterns and information about KOTO lining the sparsely-decorated walls, which echoed with the clatter of 50 tourists cleaning their plates. Temple Bar, by contrast, was a quiet oasis, its red and dark wood tones complemented by traditional-style Vietnamese sculptures and art. Generic panAsian flute music helped complete the atmosphere of relaxation.

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Although the large menu has many Western options, we chose Vietnamese fare. The KOTO combo platter (VND105,000), a selection of different rolls and two dipping sauces, arrived in excellent time and looked fantastic, garnished with brightly-coloured spirals of vegetables that looked like strings of confetti. The bo la lot and pho cuon were unremarkable, meaty but somewhat bland, and the spring rolls had a lot of rice noodles and not much else inside, perhaps in an attempt to make Vietnamese food more accessible for the less adventurous traveller’s palate. The triangle-shaped nem ran, on the other hand, were fantastic, warm and crunchy, and flavourful, and

the delicious dipping sauces more than made up for the lack of flavour in the other rolls.

Our entrées were also quick to appear. The beef in bamboo (VND165,000) arrived piping hot and was topped with shaved coconut, although I found myself again wishing for a bit more spice in the dish. The salad that came on the side, however, was spicy with a nice tang of vinegar, and the bright vegetables added a much-needed splash of colour to the plate. My friend ordered the sea bass baked in banana leaf (VND155,000), which was tender and well-seasoned and came with a spectacular banana leaf garnish.

For dessert, my friend wanted

apple pie, and I wanted chocolate, so of course we compromised and got the passion fruit mousse (VND60,000), which was everything we didn’t know we were missing; light and not too sweet, with a layer of tart passion fruit jelly on top and sponge at the bottom.

Throughout the meal I was continually impressed by the professionalism of the place, from the glossy menu to the friendly and helpful staff. For a fine meal at reasonable prices, you can’t do much better than KOTO, especially when you know the dong you spend is going to a good cause.

KOTO is located at 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Hanoi

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink

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STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Pho Chien Phong The Truc Bach area of Hanoi is known for far more than just its pho cuon joints.

Deep-fried pho with beef sauce anyone?

Words by Noey Neumark. Photos by Julie Vola

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n one of our first days in Hanoi, my boyfriend and I stumbled on the pho cuon establishments on Truc Bach Lake. In addition to pho cuon, which seemed like an obvious order as it was listed at the top of every menu, we noticed everyone around us tucking into piles of fried pillows topped with saucy meat and greens. Clueless, fresh Hanoians, we awkwardly pointed to each of the tables around us until we could make ourselves understood and received a pillow pile of our own. And that was how I first discovered pho chien phong.

If pho cuon is one of the healthiest options of Hanoi fare, pho chien phong is one of the least. A theoretically simple dish made by deep frying sheets of pho, pho chien phong is another Truc Bach staple. In this neighbourhood, just as you’d be hardpressed to find an establishment not doling out pho cuon, these fried pillows are a menu fixture, with minor but distinguishable differences from one joint to the next.

Forgotten History Everyone has their favourite spot in Truc Bach, but mine is the one at 16 Ngu Xa, right on the corner of the lake (insofar as round lakes have corners). Here, the pho chien phong is topped not only with beef and greens, but with mushrooms, tomatoes and a generous sprinkle of black pepper.

I tried to tap the restaurant’s abundance of servers and cooks for information on the history, recipe and technique behind pho chien phong, but I got the sense that the beauty is in the dish’s simplicity. How do you make it? “See this? You fry it.” How long has it been around? “Awhile.” Who made the recipe that you use here? “Old people.”

Yet while pho chien phong has humble beginnings and simple explanations, the dish itself is far from modest. Small stacks of pho — before it’s sliced into noodles — slightly larger than a postage stamp are tossed in a wok of bubbling hot oil.

The lightness of the rice paper, when it meets the fiery depths of oil, causes it to balloon up until the stacks have risen in height about ten-fold. Golden and crispy, these cushions are scattered on a plate and smothered in thick sauce, beef that’s been marinating in a mix of MSG, sugar and other spices, and veggies.

Best Eaten…

Our photographer, translator and I all agree that the best way to eat a pho chien phong pillow is to poke a crater in the middle with your chopsticks, fill the said crater with as many saucy toppings as can fit, dip it in a mixture of fish and hot sauces, and stuff it in your mouth.

But really, when you have fried pho pillows topped with beef and gravy, you can do no wrong.

For the best pho chien phong that money can buy, head to 16 Ngu Xa, Truc Bach, Hanoi. A plate of the good stuff cost VND60,000. You won’t be disappointed

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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

Stoker Woodfired Bar and Grill It’s a new restaurant that’s been getting the chattering classes a-chattering.

So what does our mystery diner think of Stoker? Photos by Kyle Phanroy

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t’s a hard job, keeping up with Ho Chi Minh City’s gourmet explosion. A swank new restaurant opens every month, with the range of cuisines growing apace.

Truly spectacular steakhouses remain rare, but there’s a new contender: Stoker Woodfired Bar and Grill. Stoker, named for an eccentric 19th-century British nobleman, is a restaurant already much talked about for its dim-lit elegance and clubby comfort, its sophisticated staff, and especially its divine meat.

Welcome, Stoker. Can you ride with El Gaucho? Can your grill-masters sizzle up steaks of the same quality as New York Steakhouse? Your prices certainly match theirs.

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Date Night Spot I start out the evening with a whisky, another tired expat awaiting my date. It’s happy hour. The bartenders are knowledgeable, and at a 50% discount, I sample extensively.

The gossip is right about the bar being one of the best-stocked in Ho Chi Minh City. I nurse a Hibiki 17-year-old whisky (VND600,000), for many years rated the best in the world in its class.

When my dinner partner comes, she orders Mr. Phat’s gin dragon (VND250,000) the most original and excellent cocktail I’ve had in ages. It’s easy to see how he won a country-wide bartending contest.

As we drink, we nibble on beef tartare ‘blue’ (VND180,000), the poshest bar snack I’ve ever had, and

the best beef tartare I’ve had in Asia.

The Mantra of Meat The real test will be the steaks.

A great piece of meat is a special thing. There’s an aura around the best steaks, a mouth-watering beauty that other foods rarely match.

Stoker shows off its beef, dryaging the cuts in a glass-walled walk-in next to the bar. The hanging slabs are hypnotic, and I read all the labels stating origin and age.

My date and I make up our minds on opening the menu, ordering faster than we ever have at a fancy restaurant. The house grillboard (VND2.29 million, with added foie gras costing VND220,000) sounds that good, a showcase for Stoker’s raison d’etre.

THE VERDICT

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Sacred Cows, Divine Beef We start with imported gunciale speck with parmesan (smoked pork cheeks made into ham, at a bargain VND80,000) and move on quickly to the main course.

The house grillboard arrives, the meat displayed on a simple wooden cutting board.

Every cut is thick, seared mahogany outside and a silken pink inside. The Wagyu filet is dense, revealing deep, intense flavours of beef and buttery fat.

Each bit of the 21-day dry-aged Australian Angus sirloin lingers on the tongue.

The real surprise is the Spanish pork secreto Iberico, as robust in flavour as it is delicate in texture.

The butcher’s cut skirt steak

is a favourite cut, and Stoker’s example is world-class. The foie gras is superb, crisped brown and meltingly soft inside. We choose béarnaise sauce from among the half-dozen options. The sauce’s rich egg and butter enhance the charred crusts and subtle flavours.

For dessert, as full as we are, we splurge, getting chocolate fondant (VND170,000) and vanilla and oreo cheesecake (VND150,000).

Dining Like a Lord The whole place feels like a voyage into an alternate neo-Edwardian world. The ambience is relaxing, even enchanting; deep and rich and imbued with nostalgia. The long, dark wood tables and leather chairs glow, the dim lights magnified

by gold-framed mirrors. It’s a wonderful moment of peace, and my date and I simply sit for a spell after we finish.

Service is swift and keen, the waiters, host and bartenders know the menu and the dishes.

Suggestions are spot on, and the food is brought out with quiet flair.

As with other great restaurants, Stoker reaches beyond providing food. It can be a sanctuary, a time apart from the stress of the world to simply, naturally, gratify one’s senses. It can be costly, but you can hardly do better in Ho Chi Minh City for an evening’s escape.

Stoker Woodfired Bar and Grill is located at 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, HCMC and is open from 11.30am to midnight

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER

HCMC

Banh To Ong and the Untold The Vietnamese version of the waffle has long been a street snack of choice. But as ‘fast food’ and ‘convenience stores’ take hold, so the demand for these tasty morsels is starting to wane. Words by Vi Pham. Photos by Francis Xavier

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anh to ong — beehive crackers — have their own place in my childhood. I used to live in Saigon’s suburbs and as a kid, I was not allowed to go downtown without my parents. We used to drive to the bookstore at the end of summer break to buy stuff for the new semester and then wandered around District 1 looking for funny stuff to do. Whenever I smelt the aroma of banh to ong in front of the bookstore, I would immediately turn my head around to look for the seller. The comfortable sweet smell of banh to ong made my mouth water, blurring out all the other snacks, and it was always a good day if my parents bought me some.

Then and Now Since most sellers insist banh to ong has been present in Saigon since 1975, it could well be a local adaptation of the waffle. However, for me, banh to ong is crunchier and although there are many similarities in the ingredients, banh to ong requires a thin layer of flour to have that crunchiness; some sellers even add sprinkles of coconut. What makes this snack so different from the waffle is that you can only buy it from the ganh ladies, the women with the bamboo poles and baskets.

These ladies are the people who carry the

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stove to toast the crackers and all the other ingredients on their shoulder poles. Until about five years ago, it was still easy to find the banh to ong ladies on the streets while exploring Saigon, especially in the central areas, and it was always pure happiness to watch the sellers and their cracker-making device. They must have mastered the art of making banh to ong over many years to be able to apply batter and flip the iron beehive pans so professionally.

However, there are fewer and fewer banh to ong sellers to buy from. There are days when my sweet tooth craves that familiar crunchiness of banh to ong, but the sellers are nowhere to be found.

“Everything’s changed,” says Ms. Lien, a banh to ong seller on Dong Khoi, when I ask about her business. “I’ve been selling this on the streets of Saigon for almost 24 years and there used to be many more of us, especially in front of the Tax Shopping Mall.”

“Do you know why?”

“Some replaced their shoulder poles with bikes and some quit — they can’t compete with the instant snacks, I guess…” Ms. Lien shrugs her shoulders, and let’s slip a tiny sigh as she continues toasting my order.

Homesickness Even though banh to ong is not an international food star like pho, it does have a special

place in the memory of every Saigonese. I remember what a happy feeling it was to receive the hot crunchy banh to ong wrapped in a piece of newspaper from the ganh lady after school. It was the simple happiness that only street snacks can deliver.

“I do miss Vietnam when I see the waffle,” replies my friend Linh when I text her asking about banh to ong. “I’ve tried to make banh to ong several times here in Canada, but I’ve failed miserably. I can’t get that crunchiness right.”

Indeed, making banh to ong requires both attention and patience. If you pour too much batter onto the iron pans, the cracker will turn into a puffy dough. If you pour too little, it’ll be too thin for a cracker, and if you don’t flip the pans at the right time, it’ll burn or be undercooked. This is not at all an easy skill to learn, let alone master it like the ganh ladies have.

“But I do try to make it over and over again, you know, just to be surrounded by that warm cozy smell,” Linh texts back, surrounding her message with tearful emojis.

If you want to see how banh to ong is toasted to that perfect, yellow-brown colour, find the sellers on Dong Khoi and Nguyen Hue. I can assure you there’s nothing to regret in every bite. Banh to ong now comes in stacks and it’s about VND20,000 to VND40,000 per stack of 10.

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Travel TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

Jammu & Kashmir Bordering the Himalayas, India’s far northwest is as similar as it is different to the rest of the subcontinent.

Matt Dworzanczyk crosses some of the highest passes in the world to enter this magical, cut-off land

Manali-Leh Highway Tall pine trees all around. The road winds sharply left and right, moving steeply uphill. It’s unbearably cold — the sun came up an hour ago but with the height of these mountains it’ll still take some time for the day to warm up. And a mere 20km further on the landscape changes drastically.

Archetypal, snowy Himalayan peaks all around. And it’s 400km more to reach the nearest, famous town of Leh — but it’s too much to take in on the move. You keep stopping, wanting another look, another breath. And a brief moment later it’s a whole other world — a vast, arid, moon-like desert.

Aside from an occasional army tent and

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a rare truck passing by, there’s not a soul in sight mile after mile. In the summer season, mini tent-cities with basic supplies are set up along the way. By mid-October, even those shut down, their owners leaving to escape the snow and freezing temperatures.

The road, for the most part, is surprisingly wide and smooth, and on ‘warmer’ days thankfully not too icy.

And there’s another mountain pass ahead at 4,500 meters. Then another at 5,000 meters. Then another at 5,500 meters. With the road already closed for the winter, the temperature and height take their toll on a tiny, vulnerable human body.

Shivers, despite multiple layers of clothing; blurry vision, playing games on

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queezed between Pakistan and Tibet is India’s far northwestern state of Jammu and Kashmir.

With its area contested between India, China and Pakistan — a cause for violent past conflicts and animosity up to the present day — nowadays it is safe for visitors. It offers those who manage to scale this region’s highest-in-the-world mountain passes an insight into cultures from lands far away; a journey of prehistoric imagination, some of the world’s most fantastic landscapes as well as a taste of colourful, chaotic, classic ‘Incredible India!’

the mind; and in the rush to get to lower altitudes, to reach the streak of never-beforeso appreciated sunlight peeking out from behind the mountain ahead, one suddenly wonders if it’s hallucinations or a fantasy.

Ahead is a prehistoric land. Eerie, mysteriously nature-formed spikes sticking out from otherwise smooth and sandy hills, with vast canyons and valleys — where you expect to see packs of dinosaurs seeking food, coming to the now nearly-dry stream, engaging in epic life-or-death battles.

Leh, Ladakh Getting to Leh is a first step. But getting used to its altitude is an extra challenge.

Snowed up, secluded and sleepy for most of

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the winter (quite the opposite in the summer season), Leh’s central landmark is the old, mysterious palace of the Buddhist kings of ages past. Bearing an uncanny resemblance to Lhasa’s Potala Palace, it stands in a state of quiet disrepair, nonetheless offering stunning views of the town and a teasing glimpse of the variety of fascinating landscapes all around.

Spread out in the vicinity of Leh are iconic, clay, Buddhist gompas (temples) and simple, quiet villages. There are also odd but welcoming attractions like a pack of donkeys curiously awaiting carrots from the occasional visitor to the colourful sanctuary on the town’s outskirts that they’ve made their home.

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1. Western Himalayas on the Manali-Leh highway 2. India boasts that the LehManali highway is one of the highest motorable roads in the world.

3. Baralacha La mountain pass on the Manali-Leh highway 4. The dry landscapes of Sarcha, roughly halfway down to Leh

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Srinagar, Kashmir More reminiscent of Pakistan, Afghanistan or the other ‘-stans’ than India, the summer capital town of Srinagar is a mixed bag.

Set in a picturesque valley much more populated than Ladakh’s key town of Leh, the city boasts a number of green and peaceful Mughal gardens reminiscent of many European highlights. There’s also the iconic Dal Lake with its boathouses that once served as residences to the elite. Today it’s a different story — more often than not the boats are little else but a way to trick unknowing tourists into parting with all of their money. And despite the menacing posters of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, despite the numerous black banners with Arabic, anti-American quotes from Ayatollah Khamenei, it’s a place that one wants to like.

Despite fairly recent conflict, despite the unmissable Indian army presence, Kashmir today is peaceful and safer for visitors than it’s been in years.

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The region is known for its special Kashmiri cardamom and saffron tea — very different from the Indian chai — and next to the extra-sweet gulab jamuns (fried curdled milk solids), the pastry shops sell amazing walnut pies. Among its hidden secrets are biblical tales of Jesus’s life, who by some accounts survived his crucifixion and lived and died of old age right here.

Others tell tales of a secluded village of pure Aryan race isolated deep in the Kashmiri mountains, its people’s roots reaching back to Alexander the Great. This place is apparently sought by modern German neoNazis in hopes of bearing pure-Aryan race children.

With constant hassles from house-boat and related touts, with day and night Muslim laments roaring through the voice-distorting neighbourhood speakers, Kashmir is surely a place to experience, but one which takes time and patience to appreciate.

5. The Kashmiri version of 'dieu cay'. Smoking (unflavoured) raw tobacco the traditional way 6. Dal lake, Srinagar 7. Shalimar Mughal Gardens, Srinagar

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8 / 9. The Hindu festival of Dussehra — to signify the victory of good over evil, Hindu people celebrate by setting alight firecracker filled effigies of the multiheaded demon King Ravena 10. Nemo and I, lost in the mountains, trying to warm up 11. Historic Mandi Mubarak palace, Jammu 12. A not at all unusual sight on the streets of Indian cities. This elephant was shot in Jammu

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Jammu For a predominantly Hindu town, unlike the rest of the state, Jammu is surprisingly calm, organised and quiet. And if Srinagar is known for its gardens, Jammu boasts a number of impressive temples and monuments.

Its Mubarak Mandi palace, in a sad state of disrepair, offers a fascinating journey back in time. Once, in the colonial era, it was a grand royal palace hosting elite guests from far away. Today its paint is largely gone, its walls are mouldy, its staircases overgrown by shrubbery and its

ceilings dangerously close to collapse. And it’s a magical journey of imagination not usually open to tourists, but a smile and a chat with the two aging security guards focused closely on a confusing game of cricket on their few-decades-old TV seems to be a good enough entry ticket.

Matt Dworzanczyk is a filmmaker, writer and a long-time Hanoi expat, currently on a cross-Asia motorbike journey from Hanoi.

For more on Matt’s films and travels, visit EtheriumSky.com and follow his monthly trip diary in Word

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Travel

TRAVEL

NATIONAL

Escape the City Only a couple of hours from Ho Chi Minh City, Tri An Lake is home to large swathes of untouched, undeveloped jungle. Francis Xavier took a trip out to Cao Minh Island with Stu’s Explorer Club

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am sitting here on Cao Minh Island in the middle of the gigantic Tri An lake, one of the destinations of Stu’s Explorer Club. A man-made reservoir created by the construction of the Tri An hydroelectric dam in the 1980s, the lake is one of the best-known and largest in Vietnam.

The area round here has become famous for its biodiversity, and is close to the renowned Cat Tien National Park, until recently the home of the last Javan rhino in Vietnam.

Stu picked us up at around 9am, then we took a two-hour drive out of Ho Chi Minh City following highway 1A, to Bien Hoa,

before turning left onto TL768 to Vinh Cuu District. Then we took the Hieu Liem ferry to Tri An lake.

Our first stop was at a homestay called Viet Kingfisher. There we had a lovely, simple rustic lunch under the owner Hieu’s DIY bamboo house, surrounded by puppies, kittens, chickens, and a home garden. Everything here is homemade and homegrown.

The lunch was cooked by Hieu’s mom, known as Ba Dat. All of us and the entire family joined in to help, and we naturally called Ba Dat ‘grandma’. It proved to be a lovely, family-like meal with everyone

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sharing and comfortably stuffing down as much food as they possibly could.

Everything was delicious, even down to the plain white rice and stir-fried potatoes; the phrase ‘made with love’ never sounded more appropriate.

After lunch and a long nap we moved into the jungle for a two-hour walk to the lake. Unlike in the Mekong Delta, where everything natural seems to bite or poison you, the jungle and the bugs here were nice to us. It wasn’t too hot and the light was beautiful — we were in the shade of trees 90 percent of the time, surrounded by butterflies casually fluttering their wings and or flying around.

Reaching the lake we took a boat to Cao Minh Island. The self-named landmass is owned by Cao Minh, a Vietnamese singer famous during the era of nhac tien chien, the propaganda-infused music of the era pre Doi Moi. He also owns another piece of land in the Tri An lake area. Run as an eco-travel resort, it has bungalows, a wine cellar and

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travel services typical of such destinations.

But Cao Minh island is the complete opposite. Although there are western toilets and running water, the place is untouched, with no creature comforts and no power. All we had was food, water, some beer, torches, and a shelter to sleep under. Mr. Xung, our boat man, and also the island supervisor, told us that Cao Minh did have plans to invest in the island and make it a travel destination at one stage, but for some reason he has never gotten around to it.

Disconnected Settled on the island we went for a swim, the setting sun and rising moon in opposition in the sky. There were not enough torches to light all of our faces, so we sat in the dim light eating the BBQ set up on the beach, drinking, and enjoying the sound of the water lapping up on the island shore.

Of course we came with fully charged phones and computers, but they soon ran out of battery life. So, we put down our

phones, our lifelines to the world, and began to talk. We chatted for ages, conversation after conversation, without getting tired or bored.

If conversation isn’t your thing, there are many other things to do, like swim in the clear waters of the lake — perfect on the Sunday morning — walk along the shore, read the book that you’ve been trying to finish for a while, write your novel, do some bird watching (like Stu), take photos (like me), or listen to cai luong music (like Mr. Xung). Or, just enjoy the luxury of doing nothing.

The digital revolution has made us so connected to each other that we often forget the other key connector to our lives — nature. For me, getting back to the real world was a pleasure.

For more information, click on facebook.com/ stuexplorerclub. Tours run regularly on weekends and on weekdays upon request. Contact Stu for more details by emailing stuexplorerclub@gmail. com or calling 0933 752402. The all inclusive cost is VND2.2 million per person

Back to Nature The area around Tri An lake has remarkable biodiversity; Stu, who set up these tours, has logged over 130 species of birds here in the four years he has been visiting. There is also a diverse array of mammals, although these may be harder to spot. Included are the black-shanked douc langur, the Cambodian striped squirrel, the variable squirrel, the Eurasian wild pig and the common palm civet. There are also elephants, though these live much deeper in the jungle.

The bird species include the Siamese fireback, the White-winged Tern, Emerald Doves, the Greater Coucal, the Green-billed Malkoha, the Whitethroated Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, the Oriental Pied Hornbill, the Golden-bellied gerygone and the Ashy Drongo, to name just a few.

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Travel

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888

anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444

dalatpalace.vn

This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range.

Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999

dalatgreencityhotel.com

Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555

contact@hoteldelopera.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365

dalattrainvilla.com

Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.

In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555

hanoi-daewoohotel.com

116 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396

hanoi.hgi.com

With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia.

Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500

hanoi.hilton.com

Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888

hanoi.intercontinental.com

This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake.

Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

jwmarriotthanoi.com

From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688

maydeville.com

The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343

meliahanoi.com

Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800

moevenpick-hanoi.com

With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688

pullman-hanoi.com

With deluxe rooms and

suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000

sheraton.com/hanoi

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown.

In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919

sofitel.com

The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

M M M HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

sixonsixteen.com

Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969

goldensilkhotel.com

Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable

minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048

josephshotel.com

Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999

hanovahotel.com

A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital.

Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

M M M HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372

hanoibackpackershostel.com

Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

M M M HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777

equatorial.com/hcm

This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688

lemeridien.com/saigon

Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creative-minded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333

legendsaigon.com

Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888

saigon.newworldhotels.com

Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt.

The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686

pullmanhotels.com

Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity.

Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

riverside-apartments.com

Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1117

renaissance-saigon.com

This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheraton.com/saigon

Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688

windsorplazahotel.com

The full ensemble with its

own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201

continentalhotel.com.vn

This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866

novotel-saigon-centre.com

Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090

villasong.com

Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City.

Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926

lanlanhotel.com.vn

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966

alcovehotel.com.vn

M M M HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992

ducvuonghotel.com

Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699

dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915

honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)

3827 4648

sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An

anbangbeachretreat.com

CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231

hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800

danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888

furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234

danang.regency.hyatt.com

The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888

pullman-danang.com

Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway.

And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777

mercure-danang.com

Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix.

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888

starcitysaigon.vn

The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

kimdohotel.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 117

THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 9: THE FIRST THREE SISTERS

Matt journeys on through North-East India’s Tripura, Mizoram & Manipur on the back of Nemo, his motorbike.

DAY 145 Rest Stop Rain. Mud. Gravel.

No chance to make it to Aizawl by sunset. Am beyond exhausted. Camping it is.

8pm. Just fell asleep. Nosy crowd forming outside, intent on waking me up.

10pm. Fell asleep again. Nope — locals are back with police.

Thanks for your concern but I promise I will be fine! Can I sleep now, please?!

11pm. Two teenagers outside, one trying to convince the other that there truly is a “real foreigner in there!”

12.30am. “Hello, sir! Where from you!?”

From “sleep let me, dammit!” (…)

5am. “Sir, breakfast??”

DAY 151 Where God Walks the Earth “Far east, past Champhai, there’s an ancient, sacred land. It’s off the map, but worry not — you’ll be safe. For it’s the place where God himself walks the earth.”

Thank you, old man! No idea what you’re on about but I’m intrigued! Which way??

--The village of Kelkang. Maaan! A cocainated disco meets a circus — in a church! People singing, dancing, screaming, rolling on the ground! All to an eerily vaudeville soundtrack from an oldschool band.

And that’s just the ‘welcome’! Next morning — thousands rolling in the mud, in the rain; crawling through the forest, eating dirt, speaking in tongues, crying, laughing, praying…

And then there’s me in my rain boots, with my little, yellow umbrella, munching on my biscuits and feeling equally fascinated and absolutely disturbed.

DAY 153 Wine Tasting Joining the list of unexpected surprises on this journey of mine, deep in the dry state of Mizoram — a vast, mountainous vineyard! And the kindest family invites me to stay the night!

A wine tasting! They only have two wines: one surprisingly decent — the choice for foreigners. The other, a mix of fruit juice and sulphuric acid, is apparently preferred by locals (“it’s sweeter!”).

DAY 155 Little Death Meter deep, quicksand mud. Steep cliff on

one side, deep fall on the other. Maaan!

Two hours, barely 10km. Can’t keep going, can’t turn back. 300kms left, and I’m already drained like never before.

Setting 100-meter goals just to feel I’m moving. Stopping every two minutes to build bridges to get through. Death!

Then — rocks. And rain. The road is a steep up-and-down muddy river with frequent waterfalls through the mountains.

Hours pass. No relief. Pushing on through razor sharp bushes, slicing through my gloves, through my skin.

Nearly dark. I’ve gone a mere 70kms all day. Front brakes dead. Messed up chain.

No food, no water, no road. No town and I don’t dare seek rest in the lonely mountain village, in this area notorious for their rebel groups and border trafficking.

Nowhere to pitch a tent either. Sleeping (not) in the forest. ‘End of my life’ montage playing in my head. …and my meter hit 10,000kms today.

Happy Anniversary.

DAY 157 Back to life Back in Imphal. And I’m thanking whichever Hindu god looks after crazy white guys and their bikes. They must have one, no?

DAY 163 Stoner Goat Field trip to town. Main attraction: cops with heavy armed vehicles about to have a confrontation with a rioting crowd.

Tear gas and drama! And the locals are more concerned for me than I am myself — Go away, I wanna watch, dammit!

Took shelter at some friendly guy’s place. He lives with a deer — in his bed, a rabbit — chumming on his plants on the floor, a beautiful owl, supposedly rescued though sadly stuck in a filthy cage, and to top it all, a goat crazy for marijuana. Not a little pet goat, but a big, angry mountain goat that’ll tackle anyone to steal their weed. The guy even got his goat a girlgoat for distraction (because one goat in a house wasn’t enough) but the stoner goat couldn’t care less. He just wants weed.

It’s “Dude, Where’s my car? — Imphal Edition” and I got front seats to the premiere. Maaan! Is this really happening?!

For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at www.etheriumsky.com/prodblog

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 119

Travel

THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000

ghmhotels.com

Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800

angsana.com/en/lang_co

Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888

banyantree.com/en/lang_co

Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475

la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736

hoangphuonghotel.com

M M M NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222

budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666

COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182

With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135

mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900

novotel-nhatrang.com

This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222

sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000

sheraton.com/nhatrang

M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727

ninhchubay.com

cocobeach.net

JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177

joescafemuine.com

A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix.

MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440

miamuine.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000

victoriahotels.asia

Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

M M M

Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.

EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844

BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322

A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while

PHONG NHA

easytigerphongnha@gmail. com

phong-nha-homestay.com

phong-nha-cave.com

The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

M M M PHU QUOC

SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02

salindaresort.com

Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with contemporary design. The property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.

BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998

beachclubvietnam.com

A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and in-

cludes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207

mangobayphuquoc.com

An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946

catcathotel.com

The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

topasecolodge.com

With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553

binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939

condaoresort.vn

2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

junglebeachvietnam.com

On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this

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PHOTO BY MATT DWORZANCZYK

sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525

hotramresort.com

This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631

sanctuary.com.vn

The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach.

Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135

rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222

sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888

thegrandhotramstrip.com

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702

buffalotours.com.vn

A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam.

BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150

exotravel.com

A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours.

Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828

handspan.com

Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977

kien@travelsense.asia

A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC

travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19

exotravel.com

A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744

flightravelco.com

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754

terraverdetravel.com

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170

If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585

buffalotours.com

vietnamvespaadventure. com

Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659

backofthebiketours.com

Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience.

BEENINASIA.COM

beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436

tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844

hgtravel.com

Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com).

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308

intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

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Hanoi

Day Tripper: Nam Dinh / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eat / Student Eye / Medical Buff / Book Buff Photo by Trung Del

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Hanoi Essentials

ALTERNATIVE HEALTH

BUSINESS GROUPS

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP

A-ROAMING BODYWORKER

g

karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com

Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available.

HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE

issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth

A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi.

Only available online, but a great information source.

M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP

23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896 TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151 WEEKEND BOOKWORM CHILDREN’S & VIETNAM-THEMED BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 With its main store located in Chau Long, sharing space with Hanoi Cooking Centre, the second edition in Tay Ho specialises in children’s and Vietnamese themed books, as well as selling bao cap (Subsidy Era) furniture and a range of souvenirs and gifts.

Open weekends only.

XUNHASABA ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068

M M M

AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790

amchamhanoi.com

AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994

auschamvn.org

BBGV Floor 1, Hanoi Central Office Bldg 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 8681

bbgv.org

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115

thehanoiclub.com

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

HANOI OIS

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

NETBALL CLUB

ghanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164

vphanoi-lespace.com

M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

SKATESHOP

booskateshop.com

eurochamvn.org

CONTRABAND

ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh

sbav-hanoi.org

M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.

M M M CLUBS & SOCIETIES

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.

Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

L’ATELIER 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758

ateliervietnam.com

GOETHE INSTITUT

METISEKO

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251

metiseko.com

goethe.de/hanoi

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

M M M COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088

hanoicookingcentre.com

Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE

147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045

hiddenhanoi.com.vn

A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

EVENT SPACE

THREE TREES

AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

AMERICAN CLUB

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX

JEWELLERY

ccifv.org

icham.org

eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fairtrade, Textile Exchange.

71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an

JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn

BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS

8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831

TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

Hanoi Essentials

Mekong-quilts.org

Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

M M M GALLERIES

METISEKO ECO-CHIC

71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645

metiseko.com

M M M CYCLING DON’S TAY HO BICYCLE RENTALS

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com GREEN BIKE

CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST

15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES

34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS

70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941 THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES

29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156

thbc.vn

M M M

DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 5190

artvietnamgallery.com

Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks.

MANZI GALLERY & BAR / CAFE

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

facebook.com/manzihanoi

Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam.

The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices.

NHA SAN COLLECTIVE GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316

nhasanstudio.org

The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment.

Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.

peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com

Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts.

SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

WORK ROOM FOUR

2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286

DENTAL CLINIC

19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888

serenitydentalclinic.com

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555

westcoastinternational.com

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ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho

workroomfour.com

A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes col-

162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST.IN.M 48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907

ANNAM GOURMET

LAN SALON

GROCERIES / DELI

First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487 DA LOC WINE RETAILER

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789

Daloc.vn

HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009

Hanoigourmet.com KITCHEN ART KITCHENWARE

38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770

kitchenart.vn L'S PLACE GROCERY SHOP

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911 NATURALLY VIETNAM ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130

naturallyvietnam.com RED APRON WINE RETAILER

10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337 THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE

VEGGIE’S

vnfam.vn

UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON

WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131

PEACE DENTAL CLINIC

HAIR STREAM

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM

VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM

DENTAL CLINIC

M M M

17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434

australiandentalclinic.com

laboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701

warehouse-asia.com

M M M HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON HAIR SALON

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

TOP-END SALON

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190

M M M HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL

136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717

bumrungrad.vn

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748

vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100

hfh.com.vn

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL

55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880

SHOPPING MALLS GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER

The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500

INDOCHINA PLAZA

241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596

LOTTE CENTER

54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016

lottecenter.com.vn PARKSON

Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666

parkson.com.vn PICO MALL

229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400

SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

hongngochospital.vn

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666

Internationalsos.com

Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL

12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999

VINCOM ROYAL CITY

72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556

vinmec.com

M M M INSURANCE

IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370

insuranceinasia.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111

libertyinsurance.com.vn

REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488

M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435

bishanoi.com

A selective, independent, co-educational day school.

Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards.

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878

concordiahanoi.org

A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system.

All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140

hisvietnam.com

With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

for-profit entity, UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.

A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

M M M

isvietnam.org

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209

kinderworld.net

Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418

MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS

PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS

6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6332

fair-realestate.com

GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS

R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589

gialonghousing.com

37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096

HANOI RENTING

MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL

No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828

MOTORBIKE RENTALS

106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464 PHUNG MOTORBIKE MOTORBIKE RENTALS

13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105 VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS

17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.

M M M

RENTALS

company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

hanoirenting.com

LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS

38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999

AGS FOUR WINDS

VIETLONG HOUSING

agsfourwinds.com

houseinhanoi.com RENTALS

21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203

vietlonghousing.com

41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762 A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805

The largest home moving

With over 150 offices around

vn.alliedpickfords.com

santaferelo.com

hanoi.qsi.org

QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2, Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818

kinderworld.net/sis

Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers.

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551

unishanoi.org

Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A not-

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 125

DAY TRIPPER: NAM DINH HANOI

Often passed over for the scenery of neighbouring Ninh Binh, Nam Dinh offers something that no other province in Vietnam can provide. Churches. And lots of them.

Words and photos by Nick Ross

N

am Dinh, the province 120km south of Hanoi, is famed for its churches — every village seems to have one. Some resemble the ‘wedding cake’, detail-heavy buildings of colonialera Vietnam. Others mix together different styles — Gothic, Renaissance, Romanesque and even Modernist. The most famous, Phat Diem, which is 10km into Ninh Binh, the next province along, resembles a ‘chagoda’ — half church, half pagoda. Here traditional, wooden carved Vietnamese motifs sit next to

imagery of Jesus and Mary.

With high-rises yet to appear in Nam Dinh, these churches are the tallest buildings in the region. On a recent trip, at one spot by the sea in Hai Ly, four of us stood on the dyke road and looked inland. In one 270-degree span of the countryside we could see the spires and steeples of eight churches soaring above the skyline. It feels like each community tries to build its temple bigger and better than the one next door. When I asked about this, I didn’t get a clear answer.

Is there a competition going on here? It certainly feels like it. But what the prize is, and where the money comes from, is unclear. The significance, though, is obvious.

Nam Dinh is the bastion of Catholicism in Vietnam, and its people are determined to keep it that way.

Alexandre de Rhodes, the French missionary who in the 17th century created quoc ngu, the Vietnamese alphabet, converted thousands of people in Nam Dinh and Ninh Binh to his religion. During his

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 127

time propagating the gospel in Vietnam, this is where he had most success. This area is also where the religion most likely gained its unique shape and form, its modifications that make it distinct from Catholicism elsewhere.

Ruined Churches Any trip to Nam Dinh should take in what is becoming the most visited church of them all. Not the cathedral in Nam Dinh City, but the semi-collapsed structure in Hai Ly. In this little coastal stretch, the sea has encroached on the land, and is now 200m or 300m further in than it was a century ago. The church at Hai Ly — known in Vietnamese as Trai Tim Chua Je Su — was originally built in the 1930s to replace its predecessor, which had already been swallowed up by the sea. By the mid-1990s, the second church was also under threat, and started to collapse. It is now being protected from further erosion by the sea due to a recently constructed stone bank.

However, this church is not the only one in the area to feel the hand of nature.

Two others a few hundred meters down the beach have already succumbed — Ba

128 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Thanh Ma Ra Ne Na and Ong Thanh Phe Ro. One church is now rubble, its bricks strewn across the beach with one piece of the former foundations sticking out of the sea.

More remains of the third church, which, although completely collapsed, has left pieces of masonry, brick, arches and stone carvings scattered in a huge pile on the beach, with some pieces sticking up from beneath the encroaching sea.

As we approach the third church, a group of Vietnamese led by a guide arrive and scramble across the rubble. Two of them, still wearing their motorbike helmets, jump from the sand to the remaining pieces of stone detailing sticking out of the sea. Looking out to the ocean depths beyond, they take in the beauty yet destruction of the scenery.

The 10 Most Interesting Churches…

To search out an inland church in this area is easy. Fix on some spires poking above the skyline, get on or into your transport, and then head in the general direction of the church. Many of the road systems here are built in a grid, so you’ll eventually come across what you’re looking for.

You’ll also notice how neat the place is.

There is little rubbish on the side of the roads and the churches are spotless. The place has a general sense of organisation to it. And the people — for poor people in Vietnam — are surprisingly well dressed.

They seem to work, too. You don’t see only the women out in the fields or working on the beach. Men are here, too, eking out a living. Nowhere did we see men hanging out on street corners with nothing to do, shooting the breeze.

There is a list online of Nam Dinh’s 10 most interesting churches — Phu Nhai, Kien Lao, Trung Linh and even the cathedral in Nam Dinh City to name but four. We decided to avoid that list — although we did spend an hour or so hanging around outside the cathedral in Nam Dinh City. The people there took an interest in us. One heavily tattooed man in a baseball cap and jeans spoke incessantly to us in Vietnamese, regardless of how much we understood. Others got into arguments.

One man asked me to “find him a Western wife”.

“Do you speak English?” I asked in Vietnamese.

“No, but you can still find me a wife.”

“How?” I said. “If you don’t speak English, it’s impossible.”

He asked me a second and a third time about finding him a wife, but my answers were the same. Eventually he gave up.

But this was just one experience of many on our day trip to Nam Dinh. There are so many churches in this little patch of Vietnam, each more spectacular than the last, that exploring and seeing what you find is enough. They’re hard to miss. This is Vietnam, but not as you know it.

Getting There Take Highway 1 south out Hanoi by following Le Duan and then Giai Phong. At Cau Gie, continue south. To go via Nam Dinh, take the turning just before Phu Ly. Otherwise, continue onto Ninh Binh and then turn left towards Phat Diem. 5km before you reach Phat Diem, there is a crossroads. Turn right to go to Phat Diem.

Turn left to go to the first of two ferries that will take you to Nam Dinh — Ben Do Muoi and then Ben Do Cau. From there follow the road towards Hai Ly. To do the return trip in a day you will need to drive about 350km. So leave early.

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 129

THE ALCHEMIST AN INVISIBLE FORCE

A

fter a 10-year gap, I recently caught up with a friend I’ve known for 30 years. As our conversations shifted from the banal to the philosophical, we realised we were on opposite ends of the spectrum when we broached the topic of God. As an atheist, my friend does not believe in God or any other higher force. I, and other holistic health practitioners, often draw upon energy from Source, (God), to assist us in our work. Theta Healing practitioners, for example, communicate directly with Source as they conduct their healing sessions.

An Inside Job A spiritual practitioner will advise you to connect with your “higher self”, that invisible part of yourself who, they say, is actually the presence of God within you.

130 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

An energy healer will tell you they are not the ones doing the healing, that it is the client themselves who is doing the work.

A Craniosacral Therapist calls upon the client’s “inner physician” to help guide their sessions. The expression “inner healer” is widely used in the holistic arts to refer to the body’s innate healing abilities.

As we continued our discussion, my friend proclaimed: “I don’t believe that there is a greater force than me that is going to intervene on my behalf or protect me.”

If God is within us, need we look outside ourselves for salvation?

Who Are You Waiting For? Many spiritual teachers would agree, in part, with my friend’s statement. They believe we are that greater force, that we are the ones who will save ourselves. The popular adage in the spiritual community, “we are the ones we have been waiting for,”

BY KAREN GAY

is a testament to the belief that we hold a spark of God within us; and if we connect with our higher self, we connect with Source and thus with God.

Know Thyself The conversation with my friend took place at the end of a month-long spiritual tour where I received initiation rites that assist the recipient to awaken their inner knowledge and expand their consciousness.

Aristotle stated, “Knowing yourself is the beginning of all wisdom.” My friend and I are on different paths as we take steps to expand our consciousness. Hopefully, it will not be another 10 years before our paths cross again, but until they do we will continue to seek wisdom.

Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

Hanoi

the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

Essentials

MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281

elitefitness.com.vn

The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay.

This place is top of the range.

N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi

Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495

nshapefitness.vn STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515

studio5.vn

VIETCLIMB CLIMBING CENTRE

40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185

vietclimb.vn

Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio

providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi.

Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

M M M SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS

19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6273 3095 BOO SKATESHOP SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

bosua.vn

HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757

hanoisport.vn

SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS

SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem

bigc.vn

TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305

umove.com.vn

CITIMART Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

metro.com.vn

THE THERAPIST

Dear Douglas, Do you like being a psychologist? Don’t you get depressed or worried about the people who come to you with the problems they have? How do you enjoy yourself, when you listen to the problems of everyone else each day? For me, I tire of hearing my friends complain too much, especially when they don’t do anything to change. Does that happen to you… do you get tired of hearing the problems?

— Just Curious Hello JC, Thank you for asking about me and the way that my job affects my outlook on life. It is something that clients should know about.

First, let me correct one small thing. I am a psychotherapist, not a psychologist or a psychiatrist.

A psychologist, in America, has a PhD in psychology. A psychiatrist is a medical doctor whose specialty is psychological illnesses. I have a master’s degree and am trained to offer psychotherapy. Those terms are often confusing, and many people don’t know those differences. It can be even more confusing in a place like Vietnam, where those terms can mean something different, depending on what country a person was trained in.

Your questions are good ones. Do I get depressed or worried because of what the client shares with me? Do I get tired of hearing the problems?

132 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

My answer is not Yes or No. Of course, I feel sad or some of the pain another person feels when they are suffering emotionally. I can never feel what they feel, but I can feel some of it and try to understand where it comes from.

I have accepted that life is difficult and that sometimes reality is quite harsh and painful. I have heard many stories of what people are living with, both what has happened to them, but also their inner life, how they have unwanted feelings of anxiety, sadness or depression. I think it is because I am not afraid to know this side of life, that people can share with me the truth of their experiences. Being a psychotherapist has taught me the power of empathy.

When people open up and share their deepest pain, they feel less alone, they feel heard and accepted, they feel a connection that we all want and need. I feel good about it because, while the problems people share with me are not inside my control, the ways that I can offer help and understanding is.

So the pain I share is coupled with the good feeling of being helpful and doing something that feels meaningful to me.

Therapy is structured in a way to help this happen. Psychotherapists usually meet with people for an hour-long session once a week for several weeks. It creates a ‘container’, a time/place where everything that is said and done is contained and confidential. The help I offer, through listening and sharing ideas, happens inside of that container. What I can

BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA

do is done then and there. Sometimes I think about my clients and what is the best way to help, but I know that it is in the session that the work is done.

I learnt something that I tell my clients quite often. My own well-being is the gift I give to others. To me it means that my first responsibility is to myself, to doing the things that make my life enjoyable and meaningful.

My physical and emotional health need to be maintained through conscious decisions and practices. There are many ways to engage the body, to get exercise, and many ways to explore how to bring happiness, joy and well-being into our lives. I am a big fan of creative expression and playfulness.

I practice mindfulness in a variety of ways.

I see the value of being productive and continually learning, to my well-being. All of those methods of living life influence how it is that I can be open and receptive to the pain and struggles which people bring to me.

I read somewhere that we cannot choose whether life will offer us pain. But we can choose whether we suffer. I believe we suffer less when we feel connected and cared for, something we can all do.

Thank you for asking about how it is to do my work.

Enjoy, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

Hanoi On the Town

BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem

facebook.com/bar84hanoi

Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029

88group.vn

A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar.

BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI

15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix.

BARBETTA

EDEN HANOI OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE

End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho

facebook.com/edengargen

When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list.

ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE

95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211

linkhanoi.com

A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170

facebook.com/hrc.hanoi

Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming.

ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat.

CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970

cama-atk.com

With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY

1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088 HOUSE OF SON TINH LIQUOR LOUNGE

31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377

sontinh.com

This bar-cum-restaurant is outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings and is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events including comedy nights and shows all the live football. Also known for its creative Vietnamese food menu.

LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT

284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993

facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi

Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen,

especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly.

a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

ROCKSTORE

THE ROOFTOP

LIVE MUSIC BAR

SKYLINE LOUNGE

MADAKE

facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi

Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.

therooftop.vn

BAR & EVENT SPACE

81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665

facebook.com/madakehanoi

With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge.

This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers.

PANIC BAR LGBT BAR

40A Yen Phu, Ba Dinh A watering hole dedicated to the increasingly confident local LGBT community, this grunge-style bar puts on DJ nights and is also the home of the local Zine, Hanoi Panic.

Also serves up Thai streetfood. Check out their Facebook page for a list of their events.

61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087

SIDEWALK HANOI DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE

199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi

A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty.

SPY BAR HOLE IN THE WALL

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for.

THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho

facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The

2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front.

Now, as for the cocktails…

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL

40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838

tracyspub.com

A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi.

MODERN BEER HALL

LONG BAR

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE

VUVUZELA

POLITE PUB 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches.

THE UNICORN BAR

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places.

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience.

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

PHUC TAN

19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901

Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333

facebook.com/Nest.

Lounge.09XuanDieu

The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats.

It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas.

The views here are pretty eye-catching, too.

THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116

republic.vn

A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922

vuvuzela.com.vn

When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance.

For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.

CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers.

CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE

2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 133

BAR STOOL BEER 2KU

I

nfamous for fueling the cheap-beerfilled nights of many a Hanoian, Beer 2KU is expanding. Already seven locations deep, the brand’s latest venture sits on prime Quang An real estate, a low-key lakefront oasis sandwiched between the fancier of Tay Ho’s eateries. The first time I passed by, I had to do a double take. Is that an actual pool inside the bar? Yes it is.

“We want people to swim, but everyone is shy,” Xuan, the manager, says. We sat at a wooden table opposite 2KU’s owners, Anh The Dinh and Tung Tran. They opened their first Beer 2KU (deliberately risqué name — ask a Vietnamese friend to explain) three years ago on Thuy Khue. As for why the pair wanted to open a chain of bars, Anh says simply: “Because I like beer.”

With a degree from Hanoi Architecture University under his belt, Anh ditched the suit and tie to design 2KU’s recycled decor. The place is littered with old beer

PHOTOS BY VU BAO KHANH

bottles-turned-lanterns, handmade wooden tables, and graffiti murals, most of which he creates himself. He even designed the crew’s military-inspired uniforms. “Before, these were boring bars, with not many customers. But now we’ve changed them,” says Xuan.

Beer Maketh the Customer The concept focuses on making a space where Hanoi’s youth can drink beer and get creative, with food playing second fiddle to pints.

Menu staples include bia hoi-inspired fare like hot pots (VND250,000) and banana flower salad (VND50,000), and Xuan tells me that soon they’ll be rolling out a Western menu on Quang An. Still, beer dominates, most notably their dark draft variety (VND25,000), a rare option on Hanoi’s bar scene.

The name and design recall a brand familiar to Ho Chi Minh City, the pop-upstyle 5KU, famous for its recycled wooden decor and frequent vanishing act. But when

asked about their relation to the southern city’s BBQ chain, both owners scoff. “We’re not the same. Beer 2KU is about lifestyle and music. In 5KU, there are no drawings, no live music. It’s different,” they insist.

Construction at the new Quang An location is weeks away from being finished, but already the bar is bustling with curious customers. “This place is very special, very romantic. It’s different from the other Beer 2KUs,” Xuan beams.

And it stands out, shining in all its ramshackle LED glory between upscale bistros like Al Fresco’s and Don’s. Long have I pined for a rooftop where I could sip bia tuoi (VND15,000) with lake views. And finally, 2KU has materialised this dream of mine, combining open-air atmosphere with wallet-friendly fare and an artistic vibe. All we need now is someone to start the pool party. — Jesse Meadows The West Lake branch of Beer 2KU is at 22 Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 135

COFFEE CUP ALIU CAT CAFE

I

f you’re looking for a peaceful spot to sip coffee and bang out some work, Aliu Cat Café is the wrong place to choose. For starters, they don’t serve coffee. You also might find yourself distracted by the 20-odd cats roaming about, and you might find that this place is more play than it is work. Cats simply do not understand deadlines.

I paid a visit to Aliu following a classic Truc Bach lunch of pho cuon. Sensing the impending afternoon slump, I craved a coffee pick-me-up with a side of cute kitten. Upon entering Aliu, however, I learned that neither was available. Settling on a tea and rash-covered kittens, I began to ponder a new angle for my story.

Fit for a Cat Aliu Cat Café is an odd place, but it is quirkily Hanoian with its trademark juxtaposition of old-timey charm and modern aspirations. Tucked on a quiet corner of Truc Bach Lake, Aliu’s second-floor set-up with massive windows all around makes for an impressive panorama. The interior is bright, save for that lingering cat smell, and the lime green paint job adds needed flair.

On entering, removing one’s shoes, and paying the reasonable entrance fee (VND35,000), patrons can hunker down on the café’s plush carpets, or get rambunctious with one of the many cat toys strewn about (feathers and bells on a string, anyone?). The decor is minimal and decidedly cat-friendly. On

one wall, glamour shots of the café’s resident entertainers — that is, the cats — hang artfully.

Along the opposite wall is a kitty obstacle course fit for a lion king. Scattered across the carpet are the cats, of all sizes, colours and levels of deformity.

Furry Encounters I sit cross-legged with my green tea and let the cats come to me.

They look like they’ve gotten in street fights galore, but the owner of the café (and the 20 cats) assures me that the skin condition they’re all suffering from is benign. I take her word for it, because while the cats seem mangled, mauled, rescued and given a cheerier life here in this bright lakeview apartment, I don’t sense emotional distress.

These are happy cats. Covered in rashes, but happy.

Within minutes, I’ve tickled each of the kittens behind their tiny scab-flecked ears, rubbed the belly of a majestic fluffy fellow napping atop the lockers, and cuddled a grey tabby with neon orange eyes who looks like he’s run face-first into a brick wall.

Cat Cafe with Hanoi Charm Aliu is Hanoi’s answer to the cat café trend that, for better or for worse, has taken the world by storm. And if you are looking for giggles, cuddles and hilarious photo opportunities, it’s worth at least one visit.

Now, excuse me while I go pluck cat hair from my clothes before my allergies kick in. — Noey Neumark Aliu is at Ngo Xuong Phim, 4 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Hanoi PHOTOS BY VU BAO KHANH

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Hanoi On the Town

and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch.

They also do coffee.

COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240

coffeebean.com

This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi.

CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

congcaphe.com

With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town.

D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE

89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior.

Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy.

DUY TRI VIETNAMESE CAFÉ

43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.

ing with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi.

Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN

5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

highlandscoffee.com.vn

With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam.

JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY

22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071

joma.biz

Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt.

MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

facebook.com/manzihanoi

A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

(04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE

16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night.

COURTYARD CAFE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea.

HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE

2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era build-

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MAISON DE TET DÉCOR LIFESTYLE CAFE

36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

On-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occasional farmers’ markets.

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL

14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

VEGETARIAN / VEGAN

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com

A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.

EAT

CAFE / BOULANGERIE

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music.

Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117

facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub

A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café.

The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.

AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155

alfrescogroup.com

YOLO 32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh

facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops Boasting an abundance of

just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served up with locally brewed craft beer, and this one’s a bit of a winner.

COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098

facebook.com/cousins.hanoi

A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere.

Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula.

DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN

18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224

aulacdobrazil.com

A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price.

They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831

daluva.com

A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT

288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945

asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD

129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s.

Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment.

CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER

FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE

MOC CAFE

ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE

SAINT HONORE

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout.

Open 24 hours.

4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6292 1044

chopsvietnam.com

Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint, and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991

elgaucho.com.vn

With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up

for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service.

There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of.

FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN

59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959

foodshop45.com

Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

FRENCH GRILL TOP-END GRILL

JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

facebook.com/frenchgrill

With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286

greentangerinehanoi.com

A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HALIA HANOI SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121

thehalia.com

A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list.

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC

5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for

its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam.

Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal!

INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN

10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668

indiapalacehn@vnn.vn

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse.

Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL

G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388

alfrescogroup.com

An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list.

JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325

alfrescosgroup.com

Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking.

The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World.

KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337

koto.com.au

The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too.

Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery.

Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors.

LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509

labadiane-hanoi.com

On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal.

Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.

LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO

44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

thbc.vn

Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanish-

style gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays.

LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN

5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950

lasalsa-hanoi.com

A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317

verticale-hanoi.com

Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese-French fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both

16 Quang an - Tay Ho - Hanoi | Tel: (84-4) 3 719 2828 | 3 719 3719 donchef@donviet.vn | www.dons-bistro.com

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TOP EATS VINSTEAK

A

t the top of Xuan Dieu, Hanoi’s smog melts away. The sky is bluer, the air is lighter, and so am I, as I take off my facemask to breathe in the peaceful outskirts’ air.

Suddenly, I get a whiff of something better than air — steak. I roll my bicycle onto The VinSteak’s kerb, eager to try the latest player in Hanoi’s competitive steak game.

The VinSteak occupies the space that formerly housed Bluebird, and is Bluebird Vietnam’s latest restaurant concept. Centred around high-quality imported steaks and wines, The VinSteak delivers indulgent

dining experiences to everyone from the homesick expat (the VND300,000 set lunch, which includes a hefty rib-eye, is a steal) to the diplomat distingué.

I’m ceremoniously greeted with a luscious café latte before Executive Chef Daniel Hau arrives to deliver a lunch that is far from light.

Paired to Perfection First, we’re treated to a signature — The VinSteak amuse bouche. The house-made hoisin sauce overpowers the hearty duck taste that I crave from the dainty duck rolls, but all’s well when I slip a duck-liver

paté medallion into my mouth. I let the velvety richness of the paté linger before taking a swig of Chilean malbec.

David Pannetier, the manager, appears wielding two nearly empty bowls.

“Pumpkin soup,” he exclaims. “But… I only see croutons…” I begin, just as David lifts a pitcher and pours a heavenly smelling broth in a spiralling motion around the centre mound of oil-drenched croutons, cream and a triumphant sprig of rosemary. It evokes Thanksgiving, and I’m thankful that the photographer has his own bowl so I can dig in immediately.

The pumpkin soup (VND75,000) is sweet

PHOTOS BY VU BAO KHANH

and smooth, with a subtle nuttiness from butternut squash and cashews. It pairs well with the chardonnay, the wine’s sharpness cutting the soup’s silkiness.

Done with the opening acts, it’s time for business. A sizzle in the distance, and out comes our steak, an Australian Ribeye (VND380,000, but part of the set lunch) on a sizzling platter (think bit tet but fancier), flanked by heaps of roasted veggies. I fear that the nonstop sizzle may cause our steak to overcook, but I'm proven wrong when I cut into the meat to reveal a juicy pink interior. While the steak is slightly under-salted for my MSG-ridden palate,

the mushroom, pepper and red wine dipping sauces (again, house-made) offer the punches of flavour I desire. I take great pleasure dipping the tender, steak-soaked mushrooms into the mushroom sauce, and the pepper sauce adds heat to the buttery roasted potatoes. This is refined comfort food done right.

Sugar Fest No meal is complete without chocolate, so our feast concludes with an oozy hot chocolate fondant (VND145,000). As I scoop out the divine insides, I feel like I’m living my childhood fantasy of eating an

entire bowl of brownie batter, and it feels good.

To aid our digestion, David takes us on a tour of VinSteak’s premises, from the swanky private rooms in the cellar to an even bigger, even brighter second-floor dining room.

VinSteak has it all: hospitality, presentation, food and wine. While I don’t see myself attending any of their bigwig cigar dinners soon, you bet I’ll be back for the discounted set lunch. Because if there’s anything I love as much as a good steak, it’s a good bargain. — Noey Neumark VinSteak is at 7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

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STUDENT EYE HUMOUR IN THE CLASSROOM

T

here is a theory that when you laugh, the left and right hemisphere of your brain is actually passing the information back and forth, simply because it won’t fit on either side. If it won’t settle in the mathematical, logical left nor in the artistic and intuitive right, it doesn’t belong anywhere. It’s a new and ludicrous concept that escapes your field of understanding. So you laugh about it.

I laugh a lot. I believe I’m able to find a reason to laugh almost everywhere, anytime and about or with 80% of living and non-living things. I also enjoy making people laugh. I especially enjoy making the more serious types split their sides in a fit of laughter. To the right group of people, I make a very fun addition. But in the classroom, it’s a different story. If I can find a way to joke about the school lunch, conjuring up

142 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

witticisms about economics or Descartes’ philosophical views is no difficult feat.

To my teachers however, this comes off as an “unprofessional and uncooperative attitude”.

Laughter, the best medicine?

It turns out, for my report card, a lack of laughter is the best thing it could get. So for a whole term, I cut out humour from my diet and donned a straight face, eight hours per day, five days a week. Slowly but surely, classes and lessons became more tiring and life at school as a whole, much less invigorating. Yet, my sister always says, “A school should be a place that never stops thinking.” If it is so, then isn’t it our mission to question every little thing that passes through our minds? To me, laughter isn’t a sign of unseriousness, but simply a new point of view.

Have you ever wondered why babies

BY TO THU PHUONG

laugh more than adults do? To laugh at something is to look at it from a different point of view, a completely fresh perspective that renders the ordinary into something bizarre and amusing. It means to never accept things at face value, but to rather dig deeper and find the innate ridiculousness in the normalcy of society.

In that sense, laughter is serious business.

A Bridge for Knowledge The teachers whom I remember and towards whom I hold in the highest degree of respect are, coincidentally, the ones who make me laugh. Whether it is geography or biology, humour makes the difference between a good teacher and an inspiring one.

Perhaps this is because laughter is the bridge that connects work and play. Even the most arduous of work can become a joyful experience at the sound of a giggle.

Hanoi On the Town

classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris.

LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN

36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968

linguinifini.com/en/hanoi

With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas.

trees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH

11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207

cafe-des-arts.com

A contemporary and chic threestorey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini.

Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board.

MOOSE AND ROO CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls.

MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL

LUNA D’AUTUNNO CLASSIC ITALIAN

27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338

lunadautunno.vn

This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to build-your-own-skies-the-limit.

Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses.

Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list.

The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470

mooseandroo.com

There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides.

Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town.

NAMASTE HANOI PAN-INDIAN

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE PAN-CHINESE

Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn

Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN

23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish.

Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven.

MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese en-

46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400

namastehanoi.com

The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts.

NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India.

In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it.

NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801

nineteen11.com.vn

Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery.

The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier.

OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE

4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337

hanoixua.vn/en

Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout.

PANE E VINO PAN-ITALIAN

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080

facebook.com/panevinoHN

Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.

Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PIZZA 4P’S JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444

pizza4ps.com

Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local ingredients.

POTS ‘N PANS CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204

potsnpans.vn

Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

PRESS CLUB

when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times.

THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513

thecartfood.com

Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.

The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE KAFE CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245

thekafe.vn

Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

STREETFOOD 3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM

18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho BANH CUON HANG GA BANH CUON

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem

hanoi-pressclub.com

BANH DA TRON

3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355

sainthonore.com.vn

This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning

BANH DA TRON

6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho BANH MI 25 STREETSIDE BANH MI

25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem BIT TET NGON SO 5 VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK

20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO

67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL BUFF FRESH THINKING ON DIABETES

D

iabetes is one of the oldest known human diseases; but due to our current lifestyles, food portions and increased sugar in our diet, diabetes will become the biggest killer over the next few years. Its full name (diabetes mellitus) comes from the Greek words for syphon and sugar, and describes the most obvious symptom of uncontrolled diabetes: the passing of large amounts of urine that is sweet because it contains sugar (glucose).

What are the main types of diabetes?

Type 1 Diabetes is otherwise known as insulin-dependent diabetes. It develops as a result of the pancreas producing little or no insulin. It is commonly seen in patients under the age of 40 and always requires insulin.

Type 2 Diabetes is otherwise known as non-insulin dependent diabetes. Patients with Type 2 are able to make insulin but the amounts produced are insufficient. They are often less sensitive to insulin (known as insulin resistance) and may be treated with diet and exercise initially, but often require tablets and insulin later in their lives.

What are the symptoms of diabetes?

The main symptoms of untreated diabetes are increased thirst, passing water frequently — especially at night — extreme tiredness, weight loss despite a good appetite, genital itching or frequent episodes of thrush, and blurred vision.

Many patients with undiagnosed diabetes have no symptoms but with routine health

144 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

checks urine can be tested for glucose estimation. Type 2 diabetes typically develops slowly and the symptoms of tiredness and weight loss are often dismissed as ‘growing up’ or overwork.

Type 1 diabetes in contrast develops rapidly with weight loss and marked symptoms of thirst.

The onset of Type 1 is sudden, and Type 2 is slow. Either way, it’s easy for parents to miss these classic symptoms.

Bedwetting, accidents, or saturated diapers. As your child’s body tries to flush out excess blood sugar, there’s an increase in the volume of urine.

Unquenchable thirst. This loss of excreted fluid makes the body crave replenishment.

Dehydration. Dry mouth, lack of tears, and sunken eyes are also signs your child’s body doesn’t have enough fluid.

Diabetes Risk Factors There are a number of risk factors: some diabetic risks come from our genetics, many are preventable.

Obesity. The major Type 2 diabetes risk, with millions of people around the world facing obesity and the numbers continue to increase both among adults and children.

Lack of exercise and a sedentary way of life. Living a sedentary lifestyle without sufficient exercise is seriously damaging to the health. Being inactive often leads to being overweight, which can lead to prediabetes and Type 2 diabetes.

Eating a Western diet. Eating unhealthily is a major cause of Type 2 diabetes, as over 90% of Type 2 diabetics are overweight.

BY DR. BRIAN MCNAULL

The Western diet, with a reliance on processed foods, poor quality fats and little fibre content, is thought to be a major contributor to diabetes.

Could environment be a factor in childhood diabetes?

Rates of Type 1 diabetes have been steadily climbing worldwide. While early adolescence is still the most common age of onset, some children are being diagnosed even before their first birthday. Although kids who develop Type 1 are thought to have some sort of genetic predisposition to a malfunctioning immune system, most don’t have a close relative with the condition. The reason for the rise is a mystery, but researchers are looking into three environmental factors.

Extreme Cleanliness. Thanks to improved hygiene, children don’t encounter as many germs today, which may interfere with normal development of the immune system.

Weight Gain. In kids whose insulinproducing cells have already started malfunctioning, excess weight may accelerate the development of full-blown diabetes.

Early Solids. Feeding cereal to a baby under three months of age who is at higher risk for Type 1 may be linked to triggering the immune system to mistakenly attack his pancreas.

Dr. Brian McNaull is the medical director of Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

BOOK BUFF JINGLE BELLS AND BOOKS

B

ecause it’s that time of the year when a lot of minds become gift-focused, we’d like to present a few items from the print trade that may hit the mark.

Banh Mi Explosion

Nguyen’s book is almost an essential for anyone who wants to cater casually and easily, while keeping guests in rave mode. As for me, the age-old banh mi omelet (banh my trung) is my breakfast favorite and the banh mi donor kebab is a tummy-rumbling late night snack.

Travelogues with a Difference

In 2011 banh mi was added as an entry to the Oxford English Dictionary. And now at the end of 2015, you can’t go to many western cities and escape the banh mi explosion. There are delicatessens, hole-in-the-wall eateries and food trucks that feature a range of these sandwiches, which have been a staple of Vietnamese street food since the baguette arrived with the French colonialists.

A couple of five-star restaurants have even gotten in on the act with swanky varieties that would definitely get a thumbs down from banh mi purists.

But, like all sandwiches, the banh mi has been under constant revision and reinvention, and many places chuck just about anything edible in between a small, crusty baguette and sell it as the real thing — which, arguably, it is.

One international fast food outlet featured a foot-long banh mi ‘submarine’.

However if you want to stick to a more Vietnamese-themed banh mi you should take a look at Andrea Nguyen’s new book, The Banh Mi Handbook: Recipes for Crazy Delicious Vietnamese Sandwiches.

Nguyen includes a recipe for making your own banh mi rolls for those who can’t source crusty bakers’ baguettes. Then she describes us how to make mayonnaise, sauces and pickles that add an authentic Vietnamese taste. After that she goes mouth-wateringly crazy with ingredients as varied as patés, terrines, tofu, chicken, beef, pork and seafood.

Her sliders — particularly the sardine and tomato sauce crostini or the Korean beef and kimchi open sandwich — are a delight, not to mention her burgers and vegetarian suggestions.

Author Bridget March spent a summer in Sapa and a week in Hoi An, and using her skills as an illustrator and painter, put together two books that a Vietnamese publishing house has distributed.

The books have pertinent but non-fussy text in English and Vietnamese that will content the minds of travelers who have spent time in either place. But it’s the

BY HOANG VAN TRUONG

illustrations, usually watercolours, that will engage your memories.

Both books are slim and unpretentious, and just what the travel doctor ordered as stimulating gifts for potential tourists or memory jogs for past visitors. A Summer in Sapa and A Week in Hoi An are top quality, inexpensive paperbacks

Monopolize

The game of Monopoly with a Franco/ Vietnamese flavour has arrived.

It is set in colonial Hanoi of the 1900s and using the familiar Monopoly format allows players to amass or lose fortunes as they move around the board. The most luxurious addresses are Rue Paul Bert (now Trang Tien) and Boulevard Francis Garnier (Dien Tien Hoang), while the cheapest are Rue Des Voiles (Hang Buom) and Rue Jean Dupuis (Hang Ma).

There are stations, utilities, community chests and chance selections, all with a colonial flavour while you go to jail in Maison Central (hoping that you don’t get tortured). Money is handed out by the bank in piasters.

Historical buffs will enjoy reading descriptions of the old streets in an insert.

I didn’t realise that a public guillotine was once a feature in Le Duan, which was the first section of the 1,000-mile road to Saigon.

I’m anticipating a companion game set for modern Hanoi.

Truong is an avid reader and runs Bookworm (44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi) and Bookworm Weekend (6 Lane 1/28, Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi). For more information on go to bookwormhanoi.com

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 145

146 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

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Business Buff / Body and Temple / The Gym Diaries / Bar Stool / Coffe Cup / Top Eats 1 / Amazing Grapes / Top Eats 2 / A world of Good Photo by Francis Xavier 148 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

HCMC Essentials

BAKERIES

L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE

ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ

223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1

phamngulao.abcbakery.co

Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available.

BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

breadtalkvietnam.com

A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting.

CRUMBS BAKERY & CAFE

117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992

crumbs.com.vn

Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available. Excellent Australianstyle meat pies.

HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY

harvestbaking.net

With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details.

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072

lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS BAKERY & CAFE

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

touslesjoursbakery.com

The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam.

French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint.

Has over 25 locations in Vietnam.

VOELKER BAKERY

39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066

voelker-vietnam.com

French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

M M M BOOKSHOPS FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1

fahasa.com

Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts.

Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes.

A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

pnc.com.vn

Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese.

Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922

nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045

pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046

sbghcm.org

M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

ANUPA ECO LUXE

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912

This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

amchamvietnam.com

auschamvn.org

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430

LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394

anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm

BAM SKATE SHOP

bbgv.org

SKATEWEAR / STREET

CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754

Bamskateshop.com.vn

canchamvietnam.org LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858

facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to

174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826

BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING

1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN DESIGN & JEWELLERY

35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162

galleryvivekkevin.com

This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

GINKGO VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING

10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928

ginkgo-vietnam.com

Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5.

Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

BUSINESS BUFF COGNITIVE BASIS

W

e are all rational people, right? Well maybe not. I have recently seen some very poor decision-making by people who should know better. This got me thinking; why do reasonable and rational people often make such foolish decisions?

Anchor Basis

positive about it despite the choice flaws.

Confirmation Bias Listening to information that only supports your preconceptions. This is one reason it is hard to have a sensible conversation with people who hold fixed dogmas about global warming, for example.

People are over-reliant on the first piece of information they hear. This is very important in negotiations where whoever makes the first offer establishes the range of possibilities.

Clustering Illusions

Availability Heuristic

Ostrich effect

People overestimate the importance of information that is available to them. For example someone who says drinking binges are not bad for you may say it because they know an alcoholic who lived to be 100.

The decision to ignore negative information. This is commonly seen in investors who check the value of stocks less in bad markets.

The tendency to see patterns in random events, hello conspiracy theorist. Very common in the casino on the roulette wheel.

Outcome Bias

Failing to recognise your own cognitive biases is bias in itself.

Judging your decision based on the outcome, just because you got home driving drunk doesn’t mean it was a wise choice in the first place.

Choice-supportive Bias

Recency

When you make a decision you tend to feel

The tendency to weigh the latest

Blind Spot Bias

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BY SHANE DILLON

information more heavily than longterm data. Investors will often weigh information from today too heavily to make long-term decisions.

Salience A trend to focus on easily recognisable features; for example, people worry about dying from a shark attack, rather than a more likely event such as dying in a car accident.

Overconfidence Basis Some people are too confident in their ability, which causes them to take greater risk. This is more prone in “experts” than laypeople as they are more likely to be able to convince themselves that they are right and understand the risks fully.

Survivorship Basis An overconfidence that comes from a focus on the survivors of events. We hear more about those who survived living on a desert island or became rich starting their own business, but not so much about all those who fail.

Shane suffers from most of these and many more. He can be found at shanedillon@ pacificcross.com

by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES

AIRLINES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701

ipa-nima.com

LITTLE ANH-EM

AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565

CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en

lusinespace.com

Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA TAILOR-MADE SHOES

KOREAN AIR koreanair.com

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267 ORANGE

CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364

ambrij.com

A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM, corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts from international brands like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix, Ungaro and more. Also do event management services.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734

overlandclub.jp

The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485

saigoncookingclass.com

Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

BUDGET CLOTHING

LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com

152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620

9am to 10pm PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING

232 Bui Vien, Q1

papaya-tshirt.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS

39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556

triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE

VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE

268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946

atc-craft.com

TRAVEL GEAR

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588

Ubesthouse.com VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023

austinhomeinteriors.com

This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 151

BODY

AND

TEMPLE

YEAR IN REVIEW

BY PHIL KELLY

I

’ve been writing these articles for almost three years. It’s now time to see how much you’ve been paying attention. How do you score on the below True or False quiz: 1) Consuming just the egg whites is healthier than eating the whole egg (yolk) = True | False 2) Salt causes high blood pressure = True | False 3) To lose a pound of fat you need to eat 3,500 fewer calories than your body needs = True | False 4) Saturated fat is bad for you = True | False 5) Diet soda is healthier than ‘regular’ soda = True | False 6) Not enough sleep can make you fat = True | False 7) Losing weight on the scales is a good sign of fat loss = True | False 8) It is best to eat five meals per day = True | False 9) Eating fat makes you fat = True | False 10) Whole or low GI grains should be the main source of energy = True | False

The Answers 1) False. Despite all the bad press, good quality egg yolks are extremely healthy. The egg white contains minimal nutrients… the yolk is where all the nutrients are found, in particular a compound called lecithin. Lecithin effectively emulsifies the fats and cholesterol in eggs making the whole egg a well-balanced, natural food source that is very healthy. It is recommended that quality free-range eggs can be enjoyed in abundance. Dr. Bernard Jensen, author of Foods That Heal, describes egg yolks as “having all the right nutrients for the brain, nerves and glands”.

2) False. A recent major study published in the New England Journal of Medicine has determined that there is insufficient evidence to show that limiting salt consumption has any effect on health. Research has shown that when we limit our salt intake, the resulting blood pressure drop is generally minimal (120/80 may drop to 118/79), not really enough to make much difference.

Furthermore, limiting salt too much has its own risks, since the human body needs salt to function properly.

3) False. The fact is there is almost a century’s worth of crushing evidence that the calorie theory doesn’t work. But our society holds onto it for dear life. The mantra of “do more, eat less” for weight

152 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

loss seems to be only making society fatter.

4) False. Dr Mercola states the belief that saturated fats are bad for you and will increase your risk of heart disease and heart attacks is “a misguided fallacy.

This is simply another myth that has been harming your health for the last 30 or 40 years”. Saturated fats, from good sources, are essential for your health and have been proven to be beneficial for your cardiovascular health, bone strength, liver health, lung function, brain function, proper nerve signalling and immune strength 5) False. There are no healthy elements to either. Diet soda may have less calories, but it contains more chemicals that do more harm to your health and body.

6) True. Sleep deprivation seriously obstructs fat loss and muscle building.

Lack of sleep lowers androgen levels and growth hormone levels, thus depriving you of some serious fat burning and muscle growing chemicals and mechanisms. There is a huge link between being overweight/obese and lack of sleep.

7) False. Scales only show your total weight… not what kind of tissue you are losing. If people restrict calories they will lose muscle. Likewise, if someone is exercising correctly they will build muscle, which could cancel out the amount of fat loss, as shown on a scale.

Scales lie to us! Or at least don’t give us the complete picture. It’s better to take photos, measure girths and try on old clothes as well as measure fat percentage 8) False. The best approach is to eat when you're hungry, not when the clock says it's time to eat. Everyone’s metabolism is different and there is no golden rule to stick to. If you are not active, then eating five meals per day is a mistake, as it will elevate insulin levels that can cause a fat storing state instead of a fat burning state.

9) False. Eating sugar makes you fat!

Fat is an essential part of your diet and contains essential vitamins and nutrients our bodies require to maintain health.

Furthermore, certain good fats actually turn off the fat storing genes and turn on the fat burning ones 10) False. Whole grain and low-GI starches are mainly empty calories. This means they provide sugar and limited nutrients (ok, these sugars are digested slower) but sugar is sugar, and if there has not been an energy deficiency, insulin will convert the sugar to fat. The main source of energy should come from fibrous carbohydrates — vegetables.

Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC Essentials

CHI LAI HOME FURNISHINGS

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE

This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

chilai.com

EM EM SOUVENIRS

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408

8am to 9.30pm

FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above.

MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-creations.org NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS

2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459

8am to 8pm

MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS

1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-quilts.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115

nhaxinh.com

REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190

remixdeco.com

THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788

CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

firstBIKE.com.vn

FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM

384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3

jett-cycles.com

The showroom home of Jett Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam.

Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale.

SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114

xedapcaocap.com

Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides.

Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs.

THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405

thebikeshopvn.com

The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2.

Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories.

Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals.

Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.

M M M DENTAL CLINICS ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800

accadent.com

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 153

HCMC

clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

Essentials

dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.

M M M ELITE DENTAL GROUP. 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 3737

info@elitedental.com.vn elitedental.com.vn

Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics.

Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.

MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC

GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431

cthomasgallery.com

Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

dogmacollection.com

DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien,Q2

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019

Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399

STARLIGHT CLINIC

starlightdental.net

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777

westcoastinternational.com

An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS

Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100

maplehealthcare.net

Specialising in healthcare,

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GROCERY & DELI

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630

Annam-gourmet.com

Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.

GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105

classicfinefoods.com

Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions.

SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059

san-art.org

San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

CRICKET

astere@hotmail.fr

ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353

SAIGON RAIDERS

richard.car rington@ market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038

MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565 Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.

PHUONG HA GROCERS

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products.

Saigonraiders.com SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7

saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com

deepteshgill@gmail.com

SPORTS — GENERAL

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

meatworksasia.com

baotangmythuattphcm.vn

SPORTS

samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

galeriequynh.com

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441 WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

CLASSIC FINE FOODS DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate.

Sells prints of the originals and related products.

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010

suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034

npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598

manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899

James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

Saigon-ultimate.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794

xrockclimbing.com

THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP

15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VEGGY’S GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.

HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671

avedaherbal@gmail.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926

catmocspa.com

Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625

Conceptcoiffure.vn

Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827

famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368

glowsaigon.com

Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

sors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188

Indochine-spa.com.vn

Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737

Jasminespa.vn

Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108

hairbar.vn

A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scis-

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366

cmi-vietnam.com

This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails.

Cheap prices, too.

SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575

spatropic.com

Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930

www.acc.vn

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery.

HAIR BAR CONTEMPORARY SALON

cated in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000

vietnammedicalpractice.com

Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500

fvhospital.com

International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167

fvhospital.com

State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

americaneyecentervn.com

American Eye Center is lo-

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HCMC Essentials

HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545

Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068

hanhphuchospital.com

Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

victoriavn.com

Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

INSURANCE IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362

insuranceinasia.com

Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998

libertyinsurance.com.vn

International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more.

ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833

theabcis.com

Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.

Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040

aisvietnam.com

The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999

sianclinic.com

The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990

stamfordskin.com

Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE

187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

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BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor, Continental Tower, 8185 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9908

bluecross.com.vn

Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.

Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367

ten-pac.com

A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490

dancentervn.com

Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780

helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700

Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691

Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679

paa.com.vn

Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722

saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360

Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

bisvietnam.com

Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846

vin-space.com

accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944

kidsclubsaigon.com

Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five.

Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.

eishcmc.com

The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

Energized Engaged Empowered

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

ishcmc.com

A fully accredited IB World School, authorised to teach all three programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully accredited by both the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC), two of the most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different nationalities.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456

cis.edu.vn

The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a newly built campus.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901

ssis.edu.vn

Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257

playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP) 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788

issp.edu.vn

Set in a purpose-built campus, International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 years. With 90 percent of their teachers having master’s degrees, they are able to promise a vigorous American curriculum while including specialist subjects such as music, art, sport and languages.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639

montessori.edu.vn

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827

saigonstarschool.edu.vn

Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236

Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

smartkidsinfo.com

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223

renaissance.edu.vn

Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

tas.edu.vn

Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.

M M M

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081

saigonkidskindergarten.com

SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative,

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HCMC Essentials

PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694

SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273

nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com

Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices.

easysaigon.com

The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.

Enquiries via their website are welcome.

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700

namhouse.com.vn

Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855

residentvietnam.com

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282

snap.com.vn

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS

77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690

saigonscootercentre.com

Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs.

Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.

M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430

adecco.com.vn

Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions.

Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.

thenest-vietnam.com

Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS

185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446

chiscafe.com

Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions.

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hr2b.com

vieclambank.com

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373

vietnamworks.com

The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many.

Also a good site for expat jobseekers.

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220

alliedpickfords.com

With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied

Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071

agsfourwinds.com

A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799

asiantigers-mobility.com

Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322

logicalmoves.net

Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network.

Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065

santaferelo.com

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

Email Vietnam@santaferelo. com for info.

M M M

SERVICED APARTMENTS

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678

the-ascott.com

Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888

intercontinental.com/saigonres

Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111

norfolkmansion.com.vn

Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

Riverside-apartments.com

Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment.

Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288

sherwoodresidence.com

Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city.

Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

EXILE INK 608

57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956

exileinkvietnam.com SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311

saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090

tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339

xamnghethuat.vn TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838

tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383

xamphunnghethuat. com

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922

somerset.com

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon.

For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425

cinebox.vn

Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel.

They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

M M M SPORTS & FITNESS

4km and a run around 8km.

VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run.

SHERATON FITNESS HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE HEALTH CLUB & GYM

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership.

STAR FITNESS GYM

CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620

laholista.com

Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521

lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567

galaxycine.vn IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451

idecaf.gov.vn

THE LANDMARK CLUB GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTRE BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326

cyril-and-you.com

This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day.

No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run

by Cyril himself.

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS

CGV CINEMAS

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388

cgv.vn

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672

nutrifort.com

A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals.

SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonhash.com

Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually

Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com

In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM

Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612

facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn

A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).

M M M VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771

vietnameselanguagegarden. com VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168

vlstudies.com

Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

M M M SPORTS GARMENTS

SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

THE GYM DIARIES

Word staff writer Owen Salisbury has started to take his fitness seriously: he’s hired a trainer. In the second of a series of columns, Owen learns the value of patience

E

very road has its rough spots.

One of the main reasons I hired Dan and hit the gym was to improve my overall health; my immune system hit back by going on strike, and I spent the month alternately coughing, spitting up sputum and vomiting as I tried to work my pecs out and my belly in.

I had to train sick, balancing progress with maintenance. Most of it is common sense. You can do it, but understand your limits. Listen to your body — one of Dan’s oft-emphasized lessons. Be patient with the slower progress.

That’s not easy for me. The month feels like an utter wash; we delay serious

alterations to my diet as it would just be too stressful. Relaxation is recovery.

He shares ideas for some healthy snacks, protein for building muscle.

“Be patient,” he says. This will become a familiar refrain.

How To Train Sick This is where having a trainer is excellent. I may be down, but Dan gets me going again.

I’m ready to quit, but he pushes me another step forward, to lift one more time, keeping a critical eye on my form and overall demeanour.

“If you reach the end of every session feeling like crap, I’m a stupid coach,” he says.

If you hire a trainer, listen when he tells you to stop. Part of his job is knowing when you have hit your wall, and when you still have that last set in you.

We do light days. I don’t get sicker, and I maintain the momentum and rhythm of going to the gym three days a week. Getting into better habits is a matter of repetition; why let bronchitis interfere if I can train through it safely? And don’t hesitate to adjust your programme or your supplements to accommodate your well-being.

I lose my breakfast a couple of times, and he ends the sessions.

“Be patient.” It’s a mantra we all could adopt.

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

Lucky Day 13 Progress. My form is solid enough to add weights to the mix. As I learnt last month, you need good form before you start hefting those kilos.

The importance is driven home two ways.

Playing around with my students, I mildly strain my left Achilles tendon.

It was from nothing, a simple pivot, but neatly demonstrates the fragility of the body — especially as its age inches up.

A pivot on my foot, playing; just think of what could happen if you’re squatting 100 kilos and your form breaks down.

Dan has to coach me on how to move and stand under the weight so I don’t aggravate it. We do some squats and deadlifts. My back muscles harden like over-vulcanized rubber for days.

Second, we do dumbbell presses. I hoist more weight more easily than I thought I could. I do 12 reps, and feel like I could do 20. More progress.

My muscles are working efficiently together, which is important as the weight increases. More weight equals more risk, so your muscles and central nervous system need to play nice with each other.

Interestingly, my posture improves without my noticing.

Goodbye Steak, Hello Health Getting under the bars feels great, even if I’m still lifting low weights.

Dan is dismissive of racking up plates on the bar when it’s done as some sort of end in itself. It can’t be repeated enough; knowing your goals is crucial to achievement.

In my case, it’s not having another month like this one. Next month, we’ll get to my diet, so I must get ready to wave goodbye to my Scotch and steaks.

But not just yet, thankfully. I can’t face it after this month.

Dan’s advice?

“Be patient.”

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 161

HCMC On The Town

BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars.

Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB

2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124

apocalypsesaigon.com

An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back.

BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR

90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588

biacraft.com

As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu.

BLANCHY’S TASH

With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

BROMA, NOT A BAR

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD

40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452

162 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

LE PUB

SPORTS BAR

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898

175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.

gameonsaigon.com

A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail.

BUDDHA BAR

HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE

LONG PHI

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605

FRENCH / RESTOBAR

hoavien.vn

The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer.

RESTOBAR

7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345

Buddhabarsaigon.com

Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon.

One of the top watering holes in the city.

D2 SPORTS BAR

55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack?

A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check out their daily food specials.

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB

95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details.

GAME ON

ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR

24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports.

LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180

lahabana-saigon.com

Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel.

Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR

Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience.

Night live music and DJs.

LAST CALL AFTERHOURS LOUNGE

59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122

lastcallsaigon.com

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

MAY RESTAURANT & BAR LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

mayrestaurant.com.vn

An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space.

NUMBER FIVE EXPAT BAR

44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music.

OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE

Tel: 0906 912730

www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030

www.dominos.vn EAT.VN www.eat.vn

HUNGRYPANDA. VN

www.hungrypanda.vn KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999

www.kfcvietnam. com.vn

LOTTERIA

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388

www.pizzahut.vn SCOOZI

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com

O’BRIEN’S IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198

irish-barsaigon.com

This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com

with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

PEACHES CURRY PUB

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.

SHRINE BAR

THE ORIENT

LOUNGE BAR

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1

Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings.

With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere.

An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

shrinebarsaigon.com

SEVENTEEN SALOON THEMED MUSIC BAR

PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS

46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796

phattysbar.com

From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR

S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks.

SAIGON OUTCAST

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007

seventeensaloon.com.vn

Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

SPOTTED COW INTERNATIONAL / SPORT

111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670

Alfrescosgroup.com

Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198

Saigonoutcast.com

Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets.

SAIGON RANGER

STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL

5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738

Stormp.vn

Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. A good place to watch the live sports.

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559

facebook.com/saigonranger

Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.

THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR

31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798

facebook.com/thecubesaigon

A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

THE OBSERVATORY

SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.

BAR, ART & DJ SPACE

5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior.

Regular DJ nights.

M M M

facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon

THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE

CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanese-style interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon.

Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm.

INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and Germaninfluenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

VINYL BAR MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623

vinylbarsaigon.com

BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003

sam.nguyen197@gmail.com

A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960sera apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657

cafethoaivien.com

Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai

A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38 CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827

wineembassy.com.vn

A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468

xusaigon.com

This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 163

BAR STOOL CUBA LA CASA DEL MOJITO

I

f you wanted to open a bar and restaurant in Vietnam, what would you do? Go to Cuba? Charles Lecomte and Ruben Fahnestock did exactly that in June this year. With various experiences in hospitality management and the beverage industry in this country, it was a trip they made in the pursuit of a dream; that of becoming their own boss. Now, barely five months later, the dream is a reality, because they’ve just opened their tribute to that month-long trip; Cuba La Casa Del Mojito. Literally meaning House of the Mojito for non-Spanish speakers, when we caught up, they were definitely living the mi casa, su casa vibe.

Warm Atmosphere Straight off the bat I ask Charles what he thinks makes the place special. His reply is simple: “A warm atmosphere”.

Catching the after-work crowd on a Friday night, the atmosphere my photographer Kyle and I encountered was lively; a good time was definitely afoot.

Although this is Ruben and Charles’ first crack at ownership, you wouldn’t necessarily know. Without trying too hard, ‘Cuba’ feels authentic. It’s because everything in it has been brought back from the island itself; shipped in and relocated to their freshly refurbished city-central location. No crap stuck on the walls for the sake of it, nor an overabundance of Che Guevara icons, only well-selected art pieces, a relaxing colour palette, comfortable mahogany furniture, natural tones and happy people.

Up-tempo Latin grooves and some of the best Cuban musicians in Asia almost

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

make this last part a fait accompli. For the aficionados of that famous Cuban cigar, there’s even a smokers’ lounge out the back of the L-shaped venue, beyond the galley style dining area.

The Drinks Of course, none of this matters if you can’t serve me a decent drink. This column is called Bar Stool after all. On this front, ‘Cuba’ easily passes the test.

And while you’d be right to have high standards for a Mojito (VND100,000), as good as it is here, this acts almost as a lead-in beverage, and you’d be wrong in my opinion not to run your eye over the rest of the rum-heavy menu. I tried both the Papa Hemingway (VND115,000) and the Bloody Cuban (VND150,000), which were equally delicious. Eyeing up the gin collection, both put me at ease, making me feel comfortable enough to ask for an offthe-menu Sweet Martini (VND150,000).

In terms of prices, it’s definitely part of their philosophy not to make this a ‘high-end’ bar for rich people, meaning everyone’s invited to the party. “We want everyone to come and enjoy what we’ve started here,” says Charles. “Good drinks at decent prices, great music and great food in the heart of the city.”

And cooked up by a Cuban chef, the food here is worth checking out as much as the drinks are. Try the shredded Cuban beef or ropa vieja as it’s called on the island — excellent! Oh, and did we forget to mention the regular live music and salsa nights?

Gracias Señor Cuba. I’ll be visiting your fair shores again. — Jon Aspin Cuba La Casa Del Mojito is at 91 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC or online at facebook.com/cubanvn

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 165

COFFEE CUP PET ME COFFEE

S

aigon’s mayhem might not be seen as the most idyllic place to keep pets in — and outside — the house. Walking around on the pavements is hard enough for humans, let alone if you want to take a dog for its daily walk. However, this metropolis is slowly gaining status as a pet-friendly city, as shown by the increase of establishments dedicated exclusively to pets. Among them can be found Pet Me café, an original spot which resembles a little zoo rather than a place to drink coffee.

Pet Me Coffee opened its doors a little more than a year ago for all those pet owners looking for an intimate place to bring their pets to play and hang out with. Every day is an opportunity for families to drop by and learn a bit more about what having a pet is like. According to Tuan, one of the owners, “People living outside of Saigon or even in the Mekong area make their way here at

166 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

weekends to experience some pet action since they don’t have that opportunity at home.”

Once you walk in, an explosion of noise from cockatoos, macaws, finches and peachfaced lovebirds welcomes you, making you forget about the constant sound of motorbike engines in the street outside. Say hello to a spirited frisky squirrel and admire the beauty of the Pacman frog — guilty of having an extremely loud croak, as Tuan jokes — that awaits for you at the counter where you order your drinks.

The drinks menu is big enough to sample several goodies; from the Pet Me sodas — here I went for the Hyacinth, a blueberry and kiwi soda which tasted as beautiful as it looked for VND38,000 — to juices or coffees, where an average ca phe sua da costs VND35,000. Once ordered, take your drinks upstairs and enjoy the company of a couple of super furry cats, two shy hedgehogs and a few bunnies.

Multifaceted Besides the drinks and cosy chairs, Pet Me Cafe offers a range of additional services. It also functions as a shop, and provides a pet sitter service for a pretty reasonable price of VND100,000 a day.

This is a great solution in case you are leaving the city for a few days and can’t figure out what to do with your beloved animals.

Every once in a while you can enjoy some of their workshops where you will learn how to take better care of your animals — the next one is scheduled for this month. On top of it all, a pet tailor service has just been added to this list — and we both know how cute your cat would look wearing a feline ao dai. — Natalia Martinez Pet Me is at 179 Tran Huy Lieu, Phu Nhuan, HCMC and opens every day from 10am to 9pm

HCMC On The Town

Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE

213 Bui Vien, Q1

facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee

Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL

157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1

coffeebean.com.vn

Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL

79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115

Decibel.vn

Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830

guanabanasmoothies.com

An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.

HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222

Hideawaycafe-saigon.com

Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair.

I.D. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE

34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910

Idcafe.net

Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH

First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703

Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM

8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East.

THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven.

lusinespace.com

French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi. M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330

themorningcafe.com.vn

Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

facebook.com/m2ccafe

At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400

facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272

facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe

Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE

158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.

Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.

ASHOKA

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

ashokaindianrestaurant. com

facebook.com/thingscafe

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

M M M EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ

Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution.

27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere.

Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL

27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424

alfrescosgroup.com

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157

aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.

Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ

23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772

auparcsaigon.com

Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

The downtown outlet of

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 167

TOP EATS SOUL BURGER

H

aving eaten several burgers in the service of Word readers, I feel somewhat qualified to declare a ‘short-list’ of sorts. It’s not necessary, because there’s no official competition going on, but when it comes to food wars, let's face it, the battle of the burger is never over.

These days you can eat a ‘damn good burger’ in a lot of places and be satisfied, but then promptly never return. With Soul Burger, I don’t think that’s going to happen — the difference being experience. That is to say, eating here weighs more than just 200 grams of choice American beef, more than just the handmade pretzel buns, handcut fries and chilli-slaw, and more than just the carefully paired premium ales, draughts and lagers.

To this reporter’s eye, Soul Burger is a melted slice of real American dining, tucked away down a real Saigon alley, atop a crazy little nail bar, opposite the eclectic views of the Ben Thanh market. It has a cool, cosy dining room where you can immerse yourself in legendary American soul music, and a breezy little balcony where you watch the sun set on the city.

“It’s chill,” said Rachel from California when I interrupted her meal.

Get Hungry The other important thing you need to know about the eatery is that you should

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

arrive hungry. Restaurateur Gabe stresses this, because his burgers don’t mess around.

The one that carries his place’s name for example, The Soul Burger (VND345,000) is a 400g double-stacked number one hit with a bullet. Though whether it’s this or the Little Richard, (VND195,000), a burger he describes as ‘entry level’, The Diana Ross (VND230,000) or The Blues Brother (VND210,000), you can be assured that you’re visiting flavour country.

On our visit, The Al Green (VND200,000) and The James Brown (VND235,000) took lead vocals, with the former especially appealing to my softer side. It included a great combination of textures including a salsa verde, sliced avocado and crispy tortilla strips. I would have eaten the whole thing, but there was a James Brown waiting for me, and you don’t wanna make him wait. The JB was meaty decadence on a plate, featuring a brown sugar BBQglazed 200g patty, smoked pulled-pork, cheddar cheese and crispy beer-battered onion rings. Even the homey-ness of the hand-cut fries (VND30,000) transported me to a better place, while The Soulful Salad (VND165,000) that had come before cleansed my palette for everything else to come. It all left me feeling full, satisfied and with a bounce in my step I hadn’t noticed before. — Jon Aspin Soul Burger is upstairs at 4 Phan Boi Chau, Q1, HCMC

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 169

AMAZING GRAPES WINES FOR A PERFECT CHRISTMAS

BY JIM CAWOOD

I

t’s hard to believe that it’s that time of year again already. Christmas in Saigon is quite a spectacle, with Saigonese fully embracing the commercial spirit of the festive season.

The centre of District 1 will soon be a veritable winter wonderland of tinsel, snowflakes and the ubiquitous children in Santa Claus outfits.

Fifteen years ago, finding supplies for a special Christmas lunch was a bit of a challenge. Today, almost everything you can think of is available. One of the most important parts of any good Christmas lunch involves enjoying some special drinks with family and friends, so below are my wine picks for a great Xmas bash.

All Things Bubbles Christmas is a time for a splurge, so get yourself some decent fizz. Kick off your day with a nice bottle of Champagne Pol Roger Reserve Brut (produced in France, alcoholic volume: 12%, VND1,395,000 from Warehouse), a great, elegant and refined fizz. If you are entertaining a large group and have large drinkers, Jansz Premium Cuveé (produced in Australia, alcoholic volume: 12.5%, VND695,000, Warehouse) is one of the finest sparkling wines from Australia and can put many champagnes to shame. Something that is always a hit in our house, and that Christmas would not be the same without it, is sparkling shiraz. That’s right — sparkling red wine with bubbles like champagne. It’s delicious and pairs perfectly with roast ham and turkey. In Vietnam, you can now find Katnook ‘Founder’s Block’ Sparkling Shiraz (produced in Australia, alcoholic volume: 13%, VND675,000, Warehouse). Or the simply amazing Rockford Sparkling Shiraz (produced in Australia, alcoholic volume: 13.5%, VND2,200,000, Warehouse).

White Wine for Seafood Whether it’s oysters, smoked salmon, lobsters or prawns on your menu at home, don’t forget to stock up on some quality white wines. Christmas lunch is no place for Kiwi sauvignon blanc, this is a time for some elegant and subtle wines. A good quality riesling never goes astray. Leeuwin Estate Art Series Riesling (produced in Australia, alcoholic volume: 12%, VND680,000, Vintage) is the perfect match to chilled tiger prawns. A nice clean Chablis like Laroche Chablis (produced in France, alcoholic volume: 10%, VND796,000, Red Apron), is made to be served with smoked salmon or Fine de Clair oysters. For grilled

170 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

lobster tails it’s pretty hard to pass up Louis Jadot Chardonnay (produced in France, alcoholic volume: 13%, VND672,000, Red Apron) or Vasse Felix Chardonnay (produced in Australia, alcoholic volume: 13%, VND625,000, Warehouse).

The Main Event As the ham and turkey hit the table it is time to start popping some great bottles. For my money I love to have some great pinot noir, grenache or shiraz. Wines like PernandVergelesses 1er Cru, Domaine Chanson (produced in France, alcoholic volume: 13%, VND1,800,000, Tan Khoa), Mudhouse ‘Claim 431’ Pinot Noir (produced in New Zealand, alcoholic volume: 14%, VND780,000, Saigon Cellars) and Tarrawarra Pinot Noir (produced in Australia, alcoholic volume: 13.5%, VND645,000, Vintage) are all great matches for poultry. More robust wines like Humilitat Garnacha, D.O.C. Priorat (produced in Spain, alcoholic volume: 15%, VND1,000,000, Tan Khoa), Cote Rotie ‘Seignuer de Maugrion’, Delas (produced in France, alcoholic volume: 13%, VND1,300,000, Vintage) and Henschke ‘Henry’s Seven’ Grenache, Shiraz, Viognier (produced in Australia, alcoholic volume: 15%, VND1,050,000, Warehouse) are highly toned big reds and great with baked ham.

Pudding Wines If a traditional Christmas pudding with brandy butter is on at your house then I suggest a nice Sandeman ‘Armarda’ Oloroso Sherry (produced in Spain, alcoholic volume: 17.5%, VND638,000, Warehouse) or a Warre’s ‘Warrior’ Special Reserve Port (produced in Portugal, alcoholic volume: 20%, VND1,000,000, Tan Khoa). For something really special, search out a bottle of Yalumba Old Museum Muscat (produced in Australia, alcoholic

volume: 18%, VND875,000, Warehouse).

When Taste Buds Have Been Exhausted As always there comes a point when our appreciation for the finer flavours of great wine becomes diminished by what we have already drunk. At this time, some great value wines for easy drinking are required. Pinho Real Vinho Verde (produced in Portugal, alcoholic volume: 9.5%, VND288,000, Red Apron) is super refreshing and revitalizing and Winery of Good Hope Cabernet Merlot (produced in South Africa, alcoholic volume: 13.5% VND295,000, Warehouse) is one of the best value red wines around.

So I hope you all have a wonderful feast with many great bottles of wine. It is easy to drink too much, so please know your limits and have a very Merry Christmas.

Wine Retailers VINTAGE 7/12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2817 SAIGON CELLARS 6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2986 RED APRON 9A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 37443363 THE WAREHOUSE 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 TAN KHOA Tel: 0918 777524

HCMC On The Town

BAAN THAI PAN-THAI

55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453

baanthai-anphu.com

Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661

babaskitchen.in

This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.

BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261

bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.

Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas.

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL

CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592

boomarang.com.vn

Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH

BLACK CAT AMERICAN

13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055

blackcatsaigon.com

38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle

soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE

40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502

Chiscafe.com

This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN

11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329

saigonrestaurantgroup.com

New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE

16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for.

CORSO

Tel: (08) 3821 4327

elbowroom.com.vn

The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.

Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN

52 Pasteur, Q1

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace.

Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909

elgaucho.com.vn

A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town.

HOANG YEN PAN-VIETNAMESE

7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town.

EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN

Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066

hogsbreathcafe.com.vn

Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

HOA TUC

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786

ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com

The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

SUSHI / SASHIMI

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 171

TOP EATS SAHRAAN

I

’d heard there was an Egyptian restaurant in town, so one lunchtime I thought it would be a good idea to check out what were sure to be some new and different flavours. When I arrived at the restaurant’s front door, I was a little confused, as the single small sign with the place’s name was practically hidden.

Once inside, noticing that no-one was prepared to recommend menu options, my expectations were all over the place.

Astonished by its heavy 1990s sober style, I found myself on the second floor, which was completely empty, so I picked one of the tables and sat down and waited for my companions while observing the large signs with Wi-Fi passwords printed on the wall above every table.

We finally managed to order a few things from the menu, although we had also the option to choose from the table itself — where there were a few photos beautifully printed with names and some cheeky spelling mistakes. After waiting what seemed a long time for the food to come, it successfully arrived all at once.

Saved by the Food Presented in a tidy and cute display, our choices were a selection of Egyptian dishes.

The country’s culinary history, a legacy of a mixture of different civilizations, is rich in legumes, vegetables and fruits thanks to the fertile Nile valley and delta.

It was my first contact with Egyptian cuisine. We began with a light and creamy hummus (VND50,000), which was not quite as intense as we would have liked but perfectly satisfactory.

This was a good side dish, together with the Egyptian

falafel (VND55,000), which came along with a refreshing yogurt dip. In Egypt, this deep-fried patty is made of fava beans, which makes the falafel lighter and moister than chickpea versions elsewhere in the Middle East.

I enjoyed the lentil soup (VND45,000). It was incredibly tasty and creamy, probably thanks to the addition of some tahini. We helped ourselves to a squirt of lime, which transformed the dish into something exceptional. With croutons, this made the soup into a winner.

We were then recommended to try the charcoal chicken, and it did not disappoint. Tender inside and crispy outside, it was a pleasant on the palate with a smoky aftertaste. Less of a standout were the okra soup (VND68,000), which seemed to be more like a simple tomato soup that lacked personality and the fattoush salad (VND60,000), a veggie salad topped with toasted bread pieces and a lemon dressing. To get through this Egyptian feast we ordered a few smoothies for VND49,000.

Eating at Sahraan was an interesting experience, which thanks to the service turned the writing of this review into a challenge. However, the food — though a bit pricey for the type of local restaurant it was — was a definite plus point.

The lentil dish was our clear favourite, and in fact our overall opinion of the restaurant takes its cue from the humble lentil. In Spanish there is the expression ‘Lentejas: si las quieras las tomas y si no las dejas’, meaning, ‘lentils, one can take it or leave it’. — Natalia Martinez Sahraan opens every day from 9am to 11pm and is at 6 Truong Dinh, Q1, HCMC PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 173

HCMC On The Town

Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931

Alfrescosgroup.com

Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

KABIN

LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

MARKET 39

CANTONESE

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

LION CITY

Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

lioncityrestaurant.com

marriott.com

KOH THAI

SINGAPOREAN

45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot!

L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN

48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882

lacuisine.com.vn

This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine.

Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN

29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727

loveat.vn

Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere.

LU BU

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371

luburestaurant.com

MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

may.restaurant19@gmail. com

Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multifloored restaurant and bar.

Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD

LUONG SON

MOGAMBO

PAN-VIETNAMESE

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478

info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests.

50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311

MAD HOUSE

MONSOON

CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN

facebook.com/madsaigon

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE

136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996

namgiao.com

If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent.

pizza4ps.com

This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE

Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.

Has petanque on the terrace.

6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009

villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

NINETEEN

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN

Set over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful

174 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

rustic décor is matched by a darkwood, aircon interior.

Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence.

Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour.

mogambo@saigonnet.vn

The longest running expat bar in town, these days Mogambo is more a restaurant than a drinking haunt thanks to its Cajun-inspired, American cuisine; Tex-Mex, excellent burgers, US-style soups and salads. Still furbished as it was 20 years ago.

1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

One of the top three buffet restaurants in town.

Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES

18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining.

Open late.

8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town.

QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500

facebook.com/quanutut

It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

PACHARAN SPANISH / EUROPEAN

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PENDOLASCO

REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509

therefinerysaigon.com

A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

PAN-ITALIAN

87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282

RELISH & SONS

Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2.

facebook.com/relishandsons

pendolasco.vn

PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION

8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838

GOURMET BURGER BAR

44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 01207 214294 Some have described them as glamburgers, we describe them as creative burgers done well in a contemporary atmosphere. That is certainly the gloss you’ll find at Relish & Sons, along with funky draught beer options, cool refreshing cocktails and a range of all things burger. Their cheesy fries are to die for.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN

51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike.

Reservations advised.

SAIGON CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET

Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch.

SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN

Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513

sanfulou.com

Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further.

SCOTT AND BINH’S INTERNATIONAL

15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465

bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php

Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN

33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297

seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE

Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221

shangpalace.com.vn

Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN

9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798

skewers-restaurant.com

Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

SORAE

of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

THE DECK MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632

thedecksaigon.com

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE

144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533

facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe

Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar.

A popular hangout.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN

9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689

soraesushi.com

Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.

TAMAGO PAN-JAPANESE

39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634

tamagoresto@gmail.com

Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms.

They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244

Templeclub.com.vn

Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection.

Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 175

A WORLD

OF

JUST. (CONSCIOUSLY.) DO. IT.

R

esearchers in several different experiments have hooked up the brains of people while donating to their favourite charity and — whammo! — did the scientists have their socks knocked off. The test subjects’ brains lit up, mimicking the same physiological reaction as using cocaine or nicotine. I always thought doing charity was a trip, but it turns out, for some it’s addictive. Those warm fuzzies (the feelgood factor) are very real.

Other scientists have demonstrated that these reward pathways in our brains are indeed linked to our tendency to help members of our group because we identify more closely with them and thus ensure mutual survival.

So the impulse to help is entirely human (and sure, feels great) but sometimes it’s just the end result of those good intentions that winds up being so, well, unintended. This column has explored the knobby-headedness of shipping goats and poo to ‘poor’ people in Africa or buying trinkets that keep kids on the streets selling them rather than in school. Jawaharlal Nehru once said: “Action, to be effective, must be directed

176 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

to clearly conceived ends,” which to my mind pretty much slays good intentions for once and for all.

‘Tis the Season Nonetheless, we’re heading into the giving season for many cultures and you still want to (must!) do something and you’re likely also shopping for friends and family. Yet, one of the simplest things you can do is forego the shopping and donate the cash instead. Use sites like The Life You Can Save or GiveWell to see who they’ve independently vetted in the charity sector for programming effectiveness and delivering impact.

Since we know you can’t shop your way to happiness, why not try the reverse and declutter your home instead? Face it, you have too much stuff. Gather up your old work clothes for young men and women just entering into the workforce or those trying to get back into it after a personal setback. How about cleaning out your shoe pile while you’re at it?

If you have more time than either money or possessions, you can also check out the VUFO – NGO Resource Centre for volunteer listings, as well as the UN Volunteers Viet

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

Nam site. The UNV site also occasionally has online volunteering options available as well. The LIN Center for Community Development is another good place to get started if you’re looking to match your skillset with a Vietnamese non-profit organisation.

What Can You Contribute?

A quick online search will turn up other NGOs — large and small — that you can research and contact to find out if there is a fit for you and them. Just remember to increase your chance of success with a meaningful project (beginning, middle and end!) that serves the stated mission (and needs) of the organisation. People might think of the big stuff like human rights and developmental poverty alleviation, but what can you contribute to the arts, sports and education of the under-served of Vietnam? There are plants and animals that could use some warm fuzzies too.

Here’s to you and your holiday spirit; however you may celebrate or act on it.

Peace.

Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth

HCMC On The Town

Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI

107 Truong Dinh, Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU BANH TAM

271 Nguyen Trai, Q1 BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

ZEUS

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

GREEK / KEBAB

164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too.

200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917

Namsonsteak.com

BUN CHA HA NOI BUN CHA

26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 CHI THONG BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI

ZOOM CAFÉ

195 Co Giang, Q1

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897

vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom

This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

M M M STREET FOOD

COM GA XOI MO SU SU VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN

55 Tu Xuong, Q3 COM TAM 40A COM TAM

40A Quoc Huong, Q2 MI QUANG MY SON MI QUANG

38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE

BA GHIEN

189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1

COM TAM

84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan

PHO DAU PHO BO

BA NAM

288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3

BO KHO

Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10 BANH CANH HOANG TY

PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA

260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

PHO LE PHO BO

BANH CUON HAI NAM

413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5

BANH CUON

11A Cao Thang, Q3

PHO PHU GIA PHO BO

BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU BANH KHOT

102 Cao Thang, Q3

146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 PHO PHU VUONG 339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh

62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1

SUSHI KO STREET SUSHI

122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4 BANH MI HUYNH HOA ‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI

26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1

THE LUNCH LADY DAILY CHANGING DISHES

23 Hoang Sa, Q1 BANH MI SAU MINH VIETNAMESE BANH MI

170 Vo Van Tan, Q3

Based north of Mui Ne in Central Vietnam, the foundation provides the children with a home, a family and an education.

PHO BO

BANH MI HONG HOA VIETNAMESE BANH MI

Word has teamed up with the Mai Nha Children Foundation to help 20 orphan children to grow up as a family and prepare for their future.

To help fund this programme, for every copy of our Word you get delivered direct to your door, we will donate VND50,000 to Mai Nha. At VND120,000 per month (minimum of six months), this is a small price to pay to help those in need.

To arrange your home delivery, simply email trang@wordvietnam.com

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE

67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

For more information on Mai Nha, click on mai-nha.org

wordvietnam.com | December 2015 Word | 177

BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1

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The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Skype Me Intimacy and meaning. Jesse Meadows muses on the wonders of Skype and other communications mediums used to help us keep in touch 180 | Word December 2015 | wordvietnam.com

B

efore I moved to another continent, Skype was a silly novelty for me, something I would do every once in a while with friends who lived in other cities, making faces and giggling about how cool it was that we could see each other from so far away. Now, I have entire relationships via video chat and instant messenger. I spend time with family, friends, and lovers, solely in a virtual space, across thousands of miles and multiple time zones.

My best friend Michael got a huge tattoo all up the back of his arm, and I’ve only seen it on Skype. I want to touch it, to run

my fingers over the ink. But it exists to me only in a computer window. I wait for him past midnight until he wakes up and sends me his first message of the day. Twelve time zones away means I’m not only separated by space. It means I’m coming home drunk while you’re having lunch, and you’re waking up while I’m going to bed. It means I’m in the future and you’re behind. Life back home keeps going on and on without me, while I watch on the internet.

Technology is revolutionary, sure, but it is also a cruel joke. I can see you and I can hear you, and it feels like we’re together, but I will never, ever touch you. The joke only gets worse when the connection cuts out, our faces turn to digitised Monet paintings, and our words speed up, slow down, and garble into an indecipherable mess. I curse those sharks biting at the underwater cables and send a “Sorry, Asian internet!” apology via instant message. “Typing is so 1998. We were in the future! Try again!” my friend writes back from Philadelphia.

Intimacy Our generation is indeed spoiled. The older among us scoff at these first-world problems.

“I remember long distance phone calls!” they say. “I remember letters!” (What the hell are those?) I had one pen-pal when I was seven, but then the World Wide Web took over and instant messaging happened and now, even that is obsolete. A study from the Pew Research Center this year reported that some 47% of teens now use services like Skype to keep in touch, with 91% of those using a mobile phone to access the internet. We want instant gratification in the form of Face Time.

We want to be present. And to an extent, the internet allows us to do that.

Last year was my first holiday season away from home. Americans hold Christmas so dear, that missing one is almost akin to sacrilege. But I was in Istanbul and I couldn’t afford a flight all the way back to Florida, so my mom set up her computer on the kitchen counter and Skyped me in. One of my oldest childhood memories — helping my

mom bake cookies for the holidays — was recontextualised as I watched from across the Atlantic. I was there, but really, I wasn’t.

My family often Skypes me into functions, placing my disembodied head on the table so everyone can peer into the screen and small talk.

I even introduced my new boyfriend to my parents over Skype. I fell in love with a Dutch man in Amsterdam, and I brought him home for dinner on the internet. I’ve

number of members in any one social network. And it’s true, out of my 1,011 Facebook friends, I only message about five on a daily basis, and most of these live on other continents.

Conveying Meaning But how do we convey complicated nonverbal cues, like facial expressions and body language? The internet’s answer: emojis.

These little facial substitutes help us clarify

“I even introduced my new boyfriend to my parents over Skype. I fell in love with a Dutch man in Amsterdam, and I brought him home for dinner on the internet” since moved away from him, too, but sometimes he reads to me over video chat while I fall asleep. I wake up in the morning alone, with a blank computer screen. The way technology facilitates this intimacy is amazing, but I wonder how it affects us, and if it’s actually good for us.

A 2014 Cornell University study suggested that despite being physically distant, couples in long-distance relationships feel more intimate than couples who remain geographically close, thanks to the internet.

And it’s true, sometimes when I Skype my best friend, we have little to talk about, because we’ve already been messaging all day anyway. He knows everything about my life because I can message him a play-byplay anytime I want.

Ethnographer Stefana Broadbent calls this a “continuous channel”; an avenue which users can leave open in the background while they multi-task throughout the day.

These conversations rarely have beginnings and ends, but are instead an intermittent flow of correspondence. Moreover, Broadbent has found that these kinds of channels are often confined to a circle of five to six partners, regardless of the complete

the meaning behind our words. Emojis have been around for a long time, since the old days of punctuation mark smiley faces. But very recently the medium has evolved, with the advent of Facebook Messenger’s stickers and GIFs. I now find it hard to express myself in an instant message without a well-timed GIF of Beyonce flipping her hair or a cat falling off a table. The internet is not only drastically altering the landscape of our social relationships, but re-defining how we exchange ideas and convey meaning, too.

These “continuous channels” give us a sense of omnipresence. People who are not at all physically involved in my life are somehow still fully present at any moment.

It’s bittersweet, and it often hurts, this tease of keeping in touch without being able to touch, the substitution of a pixelated video stream or an animated Facebook sticker for a real-life facial expression. But it is ultimately a gift for those of us with a penchant for expatriating. We are not normal people; we love to leave. But when we inevitably miss those that we have left, the internet is there for us. So if you’re sad that I’m gone, all you have to do is Skype me. I’m always here. I’m online.

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The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Dead Tired A recent VnExpress article reported a young teenage Vietnamese girl sending a message to her parents across the internet: “Back off, or I’ll kill myself!”

The pressure to succeed is taking its toll. Words by Paul Rowe

I

t is examination time for high school students across Vietnam and the children are under a lot of pressure. It is always the same here during exam time. The children go very quiet, appear pale, lose confidence and above all are physically exhausted.

Recently I asked one of my students the obligatory “How are you today?” question.

His reply came through a veil of deep, sobbing tears. “Teacher, I am very, very, very terrible.”

His classmates went dead quiet.

I pulled my chair closer to the fourteenyear-old. “What’s wrong?” I coaxed.

“Today’s test was bad. My parents will be angry. This school is my third school today. I have four schools today. My parents will be so angry tonight.”

I found out that my student doesn’t

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usually get home before 9.30 pm, six nights a week. He then has dinner and must immediately commence his homework.

“And teacher, I am so tired.”

Expectations and Perceptions I have come across student-tiredness and student stress-induced suicide before in Japan, Korea, Taiwan and Australia. Yes, that’s right, Australia. There was a time when teenage suicides in Brisbane matched teenage suicides in Japan. A few years ago I wrote an article on ‘student tiredness’ for the Taipei Times. Two years ago I wrote an article about ‘unrealistic parental expectations’ for a Malaysian newspaper. The common factor is always the students’ perceptions (fear) of parental expectations of their school results.

The parental expectation is that their child

will score high enough to be accepted into the better universities.

But the boy I talked to in class and the girl reported in VnExpress are only in grade 9. They are nowhere near completing high school yet, but they are already tired and super stressed. I fear for both of them.

Educationalists and reporters refer to the exam period as ‘Suicide Season’. Suicide is a very real problem. Dat Tan Nguyen from the Can Tho University of Medicine, reported that suicide had been seriously considered by 26.3% of the students in one school in the Mekong area.

Wouldn’t it be great if at this point I could list Three Steps to Prevent Teenage Suicide or some other magical cure-all, and make the problem just disappear. Unfortunately, I can’t and nobody else can. It is a problem that is

shared by parents, teachers, communities and the government.

From the Pedagogue As both a parent and a teacher, I might be able to shed some light on this from my perspective. My wife and I have two teenagers in the Vietnam education system.

We have spent many years pulling off a juggling act. On the one hand, we expect the kids to do their best (and heaven help you if you don’t!), while playing down the importance of exam results. Over the years this approach has paid off. Our daughter is in her final year. Her friends are stressed out. Our daughter isn’t. She is enjoying the experience. Her marks across all subjects are much higher than the average, and in some subjects she is topping the class.

Speaking now as an educationalist, this is exactly how humans function at their best.

Humans are naturally inquisitive. We love to learn. It is something we do. We do it.

Somebody else doesn’t do it to us. The basic tenet of modern education is that we must want to learn. Knowledge cannot be force-fed to us. To voluntarily want to learn we must

be unstressed and willing. At the moment our daughter is relaxed, confident and very happy to learn. Of course she is going to do well.

And what of the young boy who was very, very, very terrible. Three times a week he comes to my one-and-a-half hour Project Work class. Eight primary school and high school children do a mash-up of English, general knowledge and art. It is self-directed and self-discovery learning (the diametrical opposite of what he gets elsewhere).

Yesterday he spent a lot of time drawing Australian animals and chatting to his friends. By the end of the class he was very, very happy (and relaxed).

The Right Approach But, back to the bigger picture. In the conclusion to his study, Dat Tan Nguyen states the problem and hints at a possible answer. … suicidal ideation [is] common among Vietnamese secondary school students. There are strong associations with physical and emotional abuse in the family and high educational stress.

Academic curricula and attitudes of parents and

teachers need to be changed from a punitive to a more supportive approach …

This conclusion may be right; words are easily spoken, but actions prove more difficult. But I do notice an ‘in’ for us.

Dat mentions the need for a ‘supportive approach’. Parents and teachers (and all those people who want to see an end to this problem) need only to offer support. That doesn’t sound too difficult. Each time we meet a teenager we offer them support. A bit of praise here, a bit of interest there. Some encouragement, a pat on the back. We can all do that.

And why wouldn’t we? Vietnamese teenagers are so well mannered, so polite, and so inspirational. Vietnam has a history of inspirational teenagers; Vo Thi Sau and teenage Emperor Ham Nghi to name just a couple.

So the next time you meet a Vietnamese teenager, remember, a little support here, a little support there. They are Vietnam’s rapidly approaching future.

Paul Rowe is a Master of Linguistics and a Bachelor of Education, and is presently living in “beautiful, historic Vung Tau”

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The Final Say THE FINAL DAY INTERNATIONAL

Don’t Feed The Monkeys I was robbed in broad daylight by a monkey. I suppose, given the violent nature of the crime, I should say I was “mugged”. This was in Ubud in Bali, an otherwise peaceful place where Western thirty-somethings go to reinvent themselves through meditation retreats and raw cuisine. After having my chakras realigned in the morning, I cycled to Monkey Forest, the town’s main tourist attraction, to distract myself from that hollow feeling that sometimes overcomes me when travelling alone. The forest was choc-a-bloc with families and couples posing for pictures. A large group had spread out across the path, and I must have wandered into the frame, because after taking the photo, the old man holding the camera grimaced at me and said to his family, “We gotta go again, guys. Okay, Cheeeeeeeeee...”

I did not have a camera. What I had stopped liking about them is that they took me out of the moment and into an imagined future where I was showing a slideshow of my rich life to a friend. “Look!” I would say to Clarence, “Look at the monkeys I’ve seen!” Clarence would nod politely, but would not enjoy seeing the photographs, because unlike me he has never seen a monkey outside of the zoo. And he and I would both know then that at least in the monkey stakes, I was beating Clarence at life.

And so, letting a roll of Kodak Moments pass me by, I sat on a low wall opposite a copse of trees watching a tiny monkey who resembled Adam Horowitz from the Beastie Boys, leap from tree to tree. All the while, in my shirt pocket I carried a pencil and a few scraps of paper to write or draw on, because although I had given up on cameras, my memory still needed a crutch.

Dolittle Before long, I noticed another motionless figure. A few feet to my left sat a monkey — middle-aged and with a sullen disposition often seen in the faces of old men from the west of Ireland. As I was imagining what he would look like in Wellington boots and a flat cap, he looked my way. I nodded in his direction, as if to say, “Well. Grand day for it.”

He responded well to this and made his way over on all fours. He sat down beside me, and we passed the time watching the Adam Horowitz monkey fall from the branches of saplings. Although he hadn’t the wherewithal to say it, his expression showed a dim regard for the exuberance of youth.

And somewhere in there, too, he seemed to share my pangs of jealousy for having lost such vitality.

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Sentient mosquitos, foot injuries and bia hoi.

Dara O Foghlu has had a fair amount of content published in this fine mag.

Here is his latest short story. Been to Bali, anyone?

Two tourists holding bulky cameras filed by — a couple perhaps. They looked surprised to see the monkey and I sitting together like that, and must have figured me for a modern-day Doctor Dolittle. I congratulated myself for my “present moment” approach to life. Just then, the monkey clambered on to my lap, and the tourists’ looks of curious admiration shifted to reverence. “Who is this man who can commune so with the beasts? What divine providence hath bestowed upon him such gifts?” their raised eyebrows seemed to say, somewhat grandiosely.

I looked down at the monkey — I decided then and there to name him Karl — and Karl gazed back up at me. Our eyes, as they say in romance novels, “locked”, and this pregnant moment stretched out towards the hem of infinity. His entreating eyes, previously devoid of passion, now sparkled with humanity as if he was trying to communicate something... urgent. I read somewhere that scientists made a schematic of the monkey’s eye using Scheimpflug photography, but for all their empirical probing, their results could not equal the insight I gained from simply staring into Karl’s eyes. Here is what I saw: Karl’s political will; his quest for an authentic connection, not just with me, but with all of human society. He wanted social integration between monkeys and humans. He wanted white tablecloths, and tweed jackets, and a decent razor, and Seinfeld marathons, and a vote. And he wanted me to help him achieve it.

“I understand,” I whispered.

Tug of War Karl, still meeting my stare, reached his hands up towards me, and for a second I thought he wanted to French kiss me.

Another, more likely scenario, was that he wanted to embrace me as a gesture of solidarity between our species. Slightly more remote, but nonetheless my most hoped for prediction, was that he would touch my temples and we would mind-meld.

Instead, what actually happened is that with one hand pressed against my chest to

steady himself, he dipped his other hand into my shirt pocket and lifted my pencil.

Instinctively, I grabbed it with my left hand.

Karl clutched it now with both.

Although surely I am stronger than Karl, he has perfectly formed fingers which closed so neatly about the pencil that during the three-second tug-of-war that followed I found myself hopelessly bested. Karl, of course, lives to play tug-of-war, and feels zero compunction to play fair. What decided the contest in his favour was him sinking his teeth into my thumb. I screamed, released the pencil and stood up, sending Karl to the ground. He landed on his feet and hissed at me.

Some tourists approached: a mother and her two children. The mother, seeing Karl armed with the pencil and baring his teeth, shook her head and said: “That monkey shouldn’t have been given a pencil.” She eyed me coldly.

“Kar—he stole it from me,” I said, but this did nothing to undo her wary view of me, and she walked on with a quickening pace, shielding her children’s heads with cupped hands.

2D Forms Heart-scalded with embarrassment, I turned around to see Karl eating the pencil. He gnawed at it thoughtfully at first, his head tilted to one side, as if awaiting a familiar burst of flavour. Then, pouring an expression of considerable disapproval in my direction, he began to spit out shards of graphite.

That Karl was clearly not enjoying the pencil as food was of little consolation to me, nor did it stop him from continuing to eat it.

It occurred to me that although the Infinite Monkeys Theorem — whether or not they would produce the works of Shakespeare if given typewriters — remained unanswered, I could state categorically that Karl would produce nothing of artistic merit if given a pencil. Had his approach not been so myopic, he might have returned to his tribe with it and distinguished himself as a creator of 2D forms, amounting to a wizard or some such in the monkey hierarchy.

But that was not to be. And so while he ate my pencil, I sought out the first-aid clinic to dress my monkey bite. Afterwards, on my way out of the forest, I encountered the mother with her two children again. They were gathered around the mother’s camera, scrolling through the day’s photographs, to see where they had been, I suppose. They all looked up as I passed, and the daughter, not much taller than Karl, but with considerably less hair, pointed at me and said, “Don’t feed the monkeys, mister!”

Dara O Foghlu is an Irish-born writer living in Hanoi

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The Final Say

Ybih Aleo, the chief of the Rhade and Vice President of the NFL

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

The Insider Story of the Guerrilla War Chapter 15: How Will it End? This piece is the final excerpt from Wilfred Burchett’s seminal account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s.

This work was written in 1964 Extent of Liberation Front Control How long will this war go on and how will it end? These were questions that I obviously discussed at length with the most responsible of the Liberation Front’s military and political leaders. Replies varied.

“It will go on as long as necessary until the Americans have pulled out or are driven out and a really independent government based on peace and neutrality is formed,” was Nguyen Huu Tho’s first reply. “We are capable of fighting for a very long time,” Ybih Aleo, the leader of the ethnic minorities, emphasized. “If our generation cannot finish the job, then our sons or our grandsons certainly will.”

It is clear that the plans of the Front’s Military Affairs Committee are based on several more years of fighting. But they are completely confident they will win. And the changing colours on the military maps, even during the period in which I had access to them, the gradual expansion of red and corresponding shrinking of the green patches, certainly justifies their confidence.

So did everything else I could see and hear during my visit.

The Front claims to control two-thirds of the territory and over a half of the population, as of the beginning of 1964. It is a government in everything but name, with Committees of Military Affairs, External Affairs, Public Health, Culture, Information and Education, Post and Telecommunications, Economic Affairs and others functioning as ministries, with their various departments and sub-departments.

The Committee of External Affairs already has its “ambassadors” abroad — in Cairo, Havana, Algiers, Jakarta, Berlin and Prague

— and the setting up of more bureaus of the NFL abroad is limited only by a shortage of cadres. Most of the bureaus also have representatives of the Liberation Press, the official news agency, who act as press attachés.

The question of transforming the Front’s Central Committee into a provisional government is obviously only a question of time. It was under study when I was at Nguyen Huu Tho’s headquarters. “It exists already in embryo form,” he said. “We have our own administrative organs. We are starting to work on certain economic problems, improving the technical level of agriculture, opening up virgin lands.

Everything is on an absolutely democratic basis. Where conditions permit, and it is almost a general rule today, the villagers elect their own self-management committees. The methods of ensuring public security and putting the economic and cultural life on a sounder basis are improving daily. A big question for us now is to organise life in the liberated zones as it should be — we are starting to have a plan for this. The self-management committees are in line with old resistance traditions and represent a transition to a more rational form of administration. The essential problems of public order and security have already been solved; economic and social life is being organised on a systematic basis.”

Over the greater part of the country, there is in fact a stable administration in the hands of the South Vietnamese people, with social and economic reconstruction already under way. Matters in the Liberation Frontcontrolled areas will continue to develop this way, even as the war goes on. The really big

question mark, however, is what the USA intends to do.

Special Measures “Special warfare” has been pushed to its fullest development and has failed. The original plan called for the use of 11,000 U.S. “advisers”, but by 1964 these had reached over 25,000 and were operating at company, in some cases, at platoon level. The equivalent of two air divisions was being employed; U.S. personnel were running transport and communications. To go any further, to employ combat troops, would be to move beyond “special war” and engage in “limited war” with U.S. ground troops.

But how many troops would they need? And how could they guarantee the war would be “limited”?

In Algeria, the French committed 800,000 troops against a population of 10,000,000 — and had to negotiate a withdrawal. The population of South Vietnam is 14,000,000, vastly more experienced in warfare than the Algerians and with infinitely more favourable geographical conditions — mountains and jungle cover two thirds of the country.

There are another 16,000,000 Vietnamese in the North, including the cream of the fighting forces from the South. And there was nothing in the Geneva Agreements that prevented them continuing their training in modem military techniques after they were regrouped in the North. It is worth noting that in the programme adopted by the NFL congress early in 1962, there is the following paragraph: “Congress affirms that… if the U.S. imperialists and theft agents plunge deeper

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Burchett with Ho Chi Minh after his first visit to the liberated zones in April, 1964

Interviewing Nguyen Huu Tho

into their bloodthirsty aggression, the people of South Vietnam and the NFL will use all forms of struggle, will take all measures to fight resolutely to the end to save themselves and their country — to liberate South Vietnam, to defend independence and democracy, and completely overthrow treacherous dictators. In case of necessity, the people of South Vietnam and the NFL will use their legitimate and effective right to appeal to the people and the government of North Vietnam, to peace-loving and democratic peoples and governments the world over… requesting that active support, inducting material and manpower support, be afforded to the just struggle of the South Vietnamese people. The U.S. imperialism and their agents would have to bear the full responsibility for any disastrous consequences.”

One could hardly doubt that in the event of moving “special war” up to “limited war” this paragraph would be invoked and, at the very least, the USA would find itself involved in a war with 20 million Vietnamese. At the very least!

Intervention from the North From the moment the big military defeats started, the Americans charged officially that these were due to aggression or intervention from the North and at the time this book goes to press, the threats are mounting to “push the war to the North.” So far there has not been an iota of evidence to support the charge of intervention from the North.

There is any amount of evidence to show it is absurd.

If the main military activity were in the upper parts of South Vietnam near the l7th parallel or even close to the frontier regions of Laos where the other side of the border is controlled by the Pathet Lao, then

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suspicions might be justified. Militarily, this would be shown by the red patches on the maps appearing first there and spreading southwards. But it has never been so; on the contrary, the movement has been in the opposite direction. And there are only two roads leading south from the 17th parallel area, with Saigon forces in solid control of both, except for occasional ambushes. The main military activity from the very beginning has been in the deep South; this has been the major scene of the big defeats for Saigon. The first liberated area, in fact, was the Ca Mau peninsula, the southernmost tip of South Vietnam. This was the area of the big military sweeps made by Diemist forces long before armed resistance was started; the main part of the fighting has gone on there ever since, despite the fact that it lies closest to the greatest concentration of U.S. military power at Saigon.

Perhaps arms come from the North?

All western press reports agree that at first the guerrillas’ arms were of a most primitive type. So much so that the Diemist government ordered a special exhibition of ‘Viet Cong’ arms in Saigon to show its own superbly equipped troops that they had nothing to fear. (Certainly Diem omitted to state that these were arms abandoned by the guerillas as new U.S. weapons fell into their hands, but that is beside the point.)

All Western press reports also stressed that those “superbly equipped” troops have been, voluntarily or involuntarily, parting with their arms to the Front forces at an increasingly rapid tempo.

When I asked Nguyen Huu Tho about charges made by Secretary of State Dean Rusk a few days previously concerning “intervention” from the North, including supply of arms, he replied: “According to recent statistics published by the Pentagon,

Wilfred Burchett with members of the NLF

during the last three months of 1963, our armed forces seized an average of 234 weapons every week. This rate, taken together with our own arms production, is more than enough to equip the Liberation forces. Besides, the Americans have never furnished the slightest real evidence of their charges.”

It is obvious that on the question of arms supply, even if it were possible to transport weapons in sufficient quantities, no military commander could ever base operations on supplies carried on human backs over a supply line of well over 600 miles of jungle and steep mountain trails, leading across the formidable Annamite Chain. In any case the Front forces need weapons for which there is a constant supply of ammunition on the spot. “Our main arsenals are in the United States itself; our logistics depend on their trucks, helicopters and parachutes,” one of the Front’s military leaders said to me. “They deliver the most excellent weapons and the munitions which fit them, right at our front door, just where we need them.”

The inspiration, leadership and technical know-how — surely this at least comes from the North? It is the one question that perhaps could be argued. Manpower is clearly not needed; the Mekong Delta is one of the most densely populated areas in the world and in general there is no lack of manpower in the Front-controlled zones. Rank and file troops that I saw — and there were plenty — were in their late teens and very early twenties; officers up to battalion commanders in their late twenties and early thirties. The troops had graduated into the regular forces from their local self-defense units; commanders had graduated during the present fighting and as guerilla leaders in the war against the French. But there is another side to the question of inspiration and leadership.

The Mekong Delta, especially the provinces of My Tho and Ben Tre, are the most revolutionary areas in all of Vietnam, North or South. It was here that in November 1940 the first major revolt against the French was launched. The peasants took advantage of the withdrawal of some French troops from the Delta to Cambodia (to counter a Japanese-Thai threat to the French in Indochina) to launch an uprising against conscription and unbearable taxes.

As for technical know-how, the Delta peasants have been waging almost continuous warfare for nearly a quarter of a century. They are the most experienced and probably the best guerilla fighters the world has ever known. By my own observations I am convinced that every armed unit is capable of handling whatever type of weapon is likely to fall into its hands. A ‘Viet Cong’ guerilla unit is infinitely more sophisticated than his Viet Minh elder brother ever was. And the latter were not bad! The difference is due to technical instructors from the North? I do not believe so and found no evidence of it.

Until some concrete evidence is produced of “aid from the North” one can discount the accusations as a cover-up for very embarrassing and otherwise inexplicable defeats. After all, the U.S. command in Saigon has a complete monopoly of planes, helicopters, tanks, artillery (except for such pieces as can be carried on a man’s back), naval power and motor transport.

The Liberation forces have none of these, not even a single motor truck, as far as I could see. The U.S. command has an overwhelming superiority in effectives. And yet they have been pushed back to the gates of Saigon. It is very embarrassing, but the answer will not be found by either blaming or bombing Hanoi or by U.S. air attacks in

A moment of peace

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Wilfred Burchett with General Giap, April 1964

the Gulf of Tonkin. There are no railway networks, bridges, factories or anything else to bomb in the Front-controlled areas. If the Americans really want to bomb the Front’s source of supplies they would have to bomb their own arms factories; but it would be much more effective to pull out of South Vietnam and take their arms with them.

Although there has been no case of a soldier from the North having been found in the South, there have been innumerable cases of the contrary. In the seven months between June 1964 and the end of January 1965, thirteen U.S. trained commando and sabotage groups, parachuted from planes or landed from craft, were rounded up in North Vietnam and tried by military tribunals. On one occasion a U.S. plane was brought down north of the 17th parallel, complete with its commando group and parachutes. General Vo Nguyen Giap, North Vietnam’s Minister of Defense and commander-in-chief of the armed forces, told me that such activities had been stepped up since Nguyen Khanh took over in Saigon. In general they are sent in squad-sized groups he said, adding: “I can assure you that all such sabotage groups have been wiped out, in the vast majority of cases being dealt with by our

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civilian population or local self-defense forces. They aim at acts of sabotage, collecting military information but also at organizing ‘discontented elements’ which exist only in the imagination of those that sent them.” General Giap said that Saigon was planning the use of Kuomintang agents and some from Laos also, but he was confident they would also have short shrift.

In most cases the groups had been rounded up within a matter of hours.

The U.S. threat of taking the war to the North, however, was being taken seriously in Hanoi. The incidents in the Gulf of Tonkin and the U.S. air attacks against North Vietnamese oil storage depots and coastal installations in the first week of August 1964, showed how well justified Hanoi was in its reaction. It also demonstrated how far Washington was prepared to go in testing a policy of extending the war. As a means of affecting the struggle in the South, however, the effect was the opposite to that intended.

The first direct reaction was a great upsurge of popular wrath culminating in the wave of student demonstrations in Saigon, Hue and other cities which forced Nguyen Khanh to step down, even if only temporarily.

If the USA takes the initiative of

“unifying” the war, of creating a single military front by pushing the war to the North, it seems the first logical consequence would be the military unification of the country. And certainly not on Washington or Saigon terms! And in so far as U.S. planes based in Laos take part in attacks on North Vietnam, the Americans would have taken the initiative of seating a single war front in Indochina.

Prospects for Negotiated Peace In short, having failed with the “special war,” Washington has to make up its mind what to do next. The series of top-level conferences that took place in the first half of 1964 were evidence that Washington was having difficulty in making up its mind. And they do not have all that many choices. High-level voices were being raised in the United States warning that no U.S. security or any other interests would justify a “second Korea” in South Vietnam, which is what moving up from “special war” to the stage of “limited war” would mean. And how to guarantee that “limited war” would not automatically lead to the stage of “global nuclear” war? In talks with Liberation Front leaders, I was interested to

Young guerillas

what extent they were prepared to make it “easy” for the Americans to leave without too much loss of face. I also wanted to know to what extent they felt the war might be shortened by some sort of coup in Saigon which, although not engineered by the Front, might bring to power a regime with which they could negotiate. What would be the basis for negotiations? What role could an international conference play in bringing about a solution?

Nguyen Huu Tho said that with the way things were developing in Saigon — the demoralisation in the army, the contradictions between the generals, the general dissatisfaction of the population, and the ease with which Khanh made his own coup — the possibility of another one, or even a series of coups, could not be rejected, even including one not to the taste of Washington.

“As far as the Front is concerned,” he said, “we are prepared to negotiate with all parties, groups, sects, patriots, without considering their political tendencies or their past activities, if we can bring about a peaceful solution based on national independence, democracy and neutrality.

But we consider that the internal affairs

Dancers Rehearsing in the liberated zones

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A school in the liberated zone

of South Vietnam should be settled by the South Vietnamese themselves without any foreign interference. The basis of any eventual agreement mast be the withdrawal of all American troops, with all their arms and equipment. The Front is not opposed to an international conference to help find a solution, but the role of the foreign powers taking part should be limited to submitting proposals and recording any agreement reached between the South Vietnamese parties concerned and guaranteeing the execution of such agreements.”

He explained that under the Alliance for Unity of Action, which was being developed the Front, they were prepared to work with all groups, including those who were hostile to various parts of its programme.

“We do not claim the exclusive right either to win the war or form the government afterwards,” he said. “We are prepared to forget the past and even the present. We say: ‘It is enough that you want to end the war and foreign intervention. We will march shoulder to shoulder with you.’ And what we say we do. When we define a policy, we apply it. This is not just a propaganda stunt.

To officers serving now in the U.S.-Saigon armed forces, we say: ‘Even if you have killed our compatriots, even if you have committed crimes, if you regret and return to the patriotic path, we accept you.’” Nguyen Huu Tho went on to explain that the Front recognised that those within the ranks of the adversary were there for a variety of reasons.

The rank and file soldiers were mainly press-ganged conscripts. Many officers were forced because of financial reasons into the army when all other avenues of making a living were deliberately closed to them, leaving the army the only way out.

“The Front pays great attention to trying to win such elements back to the side of the people,” he continued, “individually or in groups. When enemy units are prepared to break away from the Saigon command, we are ready to support them.

If they need material aid, we will supply it. They can keep their own formations, operate independently; they need not join the Front. They can retain their political, ideological tendencies, we will not interfere.

Our only condition is they oppose the U.S. interventionists and their puppets in Saigon.

As for the higher administrative officials, we oppose only those whose hands are really drenched in the blood of our compatriots, but there are only a few of these. With the others we are prepared to cooperate. This policy has received wide support from elements within the Saigon army and administration, from rank and file elements up to senior officers and officials.”

He revealed that as military victories piled up and the prestige of the Front grew, many in the Saigon administration felt the way the wind was blowing and began to make adjustments accordingly. Feelers “at quite a high level,” he said, were constantly being put out for contact with the Front. He gave me as an instance the fact that the Front ran

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courses to educate civil servants, ostensibly to staff public administration in their own zones. “But officials now serving the Saigon administration find ways and means of attending these courses quietly. They have their eye on the future.”

The commander-in-chief of the Binh Xuyen forces, Lt. Col. Vo Van Mon, several times reported killed by Saigon, happened to be with Nguyen Huu Tho during this conversation. I asked him about the relations between his forces and those of the Front.

“After the Diemist forces gave us a bad beating due to all-round treachery,” he said, “what was left of us regrouped and continued to fight independently until the Front was formed. Then we affiliated with it. The enemy propaganda machine warned us that it would be impossible to remain independent, we would be swallowed up by the Communists. In fact we still have our own organisation, our own cadres at all levels, but we fight under the unified command of the Front. After several years of cooperating with these people (and he indicated Nguyen Huu Tho and some other members of the Presidium who happened to be there), I was convinced they were on the right track. We had a meeting and decided to affiliate with the Front. But we still retain our independent character and it was just a big lie that we would be swallowed up by the Communists. What is true is that the Front grows in strength and popular support every day.”

I brought the conversation back to the question of how to end the war and make it not too hard for the Americans to execute a face-saving withdrawal. It was clear the Front attracted support from a very broad cross-section of the population, and its antennae were probing out way beyond the main body of its influence. Was it not possible that a quite unknown personality might emerge from the coups and countercoups, possibly any day in Saigon, with a programme the Front could support?

Would they throw their Saigon machine into action in such an event?

The reply was that certainly they would; that the Front leadership worked day and night to create favourable conditions for such an eventuality, and was in a position to give effective and immediate support to any “favourable coup”. But it was

explained also that long-range political and military planning could not be based on this possibility, only on the “relation of forces”.

They had to think in terms of a long-range politico-military struggle, then possibly a military uprising at a higher political level than anything so far. But if the Americans wanted a face-saving way out, they had already staged two coups. Why not a third, with someone prepared to negotiate on the basis of peace, democracy, independence and neutrality? The latter was thrown out as a joke, but Washington could have done worse than to think it over. In general, Nguyen Huu Tho thought Washington would probably try out a few more personalities and have to suffer some more defeats before they would be willing to permit negotiations on any realistic basis.

If U.S. policy-makers were motivated by a grain of realism, it seems, they could find a solution along these lines. It is the optimum solution they can have in South Vietnam and Southeast Asia as a whole.

Absurd talk of continuing the war “until all the Communists are driven out of South Vietnam,” as repeated with wearisome monotony from Washington, is a bankrupt, hopeless business. Nguyen Huu Tho pointed out that in the American context of what represented “communism” in South Vietnam, “this threat means they intend to continue this war until all South Vietnamese are expelled from their own territory.

Vietnamese patriots will give a fitting reply to this sort of braggadocio.”

Short of using the H-bomb and wiping out all Vietnamese and many of their neighbours, the Americans will never succeed in South Vietnam by trying to impose a military solution.

Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter often described at the ‘rebel journalist’ for his stories about the American War ‘from the other side’. After years of being at odds with the Australian government, last year the Melbourne Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame.

Burchett was also the journalist to break the scoop of the 20th century — the devastation caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing us to republish this work. Please note that some of the language in this piece has been changed to reflect its modern-day spelling.