Word Vietnam February 2015

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 2 2015 FEBRUARY 2015 NOT FOR SALE

contents

wordvietnam.com

FEBRUARY 2015

056

104

082

THE TALK

092 / The Art of Ao Dai

INSIDER

010 / Goats Do Roam

Celebrating the Year of the Yang

047 / The Cartoonist

Tet do’s and don’ts

056 / Beer

BRIEFINGS 012 / A Chat with Snow White

Valentine’s tips from a charmed life

014 / Vietnam Festival Calendar 2015

This month’s cover story had us breaking New Year’s resolutions like what

078 / Making the Metro a Success

Our 10-step plan for subway readiness

082 / The Future of Downtown Saigon

020 / Je Suis Charlie

A memorial is held in Hanoi

014

EAT & DRINK

But Chi teaches passion

050 / The Idiot’s Guide to Tet

011 / The Big Five

Events to look out for this month

What it says on the tin

A Vietnamese tradition evolves

The design competition for the heart of Saigon

086 / The Businessmen of Beer

Industry professionals and thier take on the world of beer

094 / Burger Wars

A medium-rare war on the tables of Hanoi

100 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Au Lac Do Brazil is still going strong eight years on

102 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: Bun Thang

104 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Vesper hits rare highs

106 / Street Snacker HCMC

On the menu: Street Sushi

FASHION 108 / Brand Ambassadors

These PGs are PG-13

Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist Tel: T el: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330 pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com Au Lac Do Brazil I HC M C 238 P asteur asteur, Dist. 3 Tel: T el: (08) 3820 71 57 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682 pr@aulacdobrazil.com

contents

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124

184

HCMC

TRAVEL 114 / Cruising

The bell drops in international waters

120 / A Day in Penang

124 / In Search of the Super Cave

Dak Nong has more holes than a block of Swiss cheese

036 / To-Do List 042 / Overscene 132 / Hanoi City Guide 134 / Coffee Cup 136 / Recalling Hanoi 138 / Top Eats 141 / Food Promos

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034 / Overscene 151 / HCMC City Guide

New Year’s Day in Georgetown

HANOI

026 / To-Do List

160 / Coffee Cup 162 / Top Eats COLUMNS 142 / The Alchemist 146 / The Therapist

148 / Medical Buff 150 / Book Buff 154 / Business Buff 156 / Job Search 158 / Body and Temple

164 / The Empty Wok 166 / Student Eye 172 / A World of Good 180 / Tieng Viet FINAL SAY 184 / The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War

Chapter 5 of Wilfred Burchett’s classic account

190 / Falling Off the Wagon

A month of sobriety can be harder than it sounds

192 / The Last Call

Alex Violette is crafting Vietnam’s beer future

192

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 5

CONTRIBUTORS

This month we asked Word contributors, “When was the last time you 100-percented a beer?”

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC ED WEINBERG

Deputy Editor I was at a countryside wedding near Buon Ma Thuot a couple weeks ago, and I forgot that I should probably never drink with my own table, as emissaries from other tables are much harder to turn down. I drank way too much. Conversation was limited to “How many beers can you drink?"

JON ASPIN

Staff Writer Not long ago in The Tavern after my cricket team (the UCC) pulled off a dramatic-escape-from-defeat last ball draw against the SACC in the T20 league here. We didn’t even win, but I think we all pulled off a few 100-percenters that afternoon. It’s hard to say how many. I gave a speech.

SIMON STANLEY

Contributing Writer It was a ski trip to France. Bad weather. A day stuck in a bar with a bunch of guys. A drinking game of some kind. The staff threw me out into the snow to sober up. I must have learnt my lesson as that was over 10 years ago.

OWEN SALISBURY

Contributing Writer Before pouring beers for the tasting article, I bought one for myself and slammed it in the back of the Circle K, just to get that lovely toothpastesans-mint aftertaste only the best canned lagers offer.

NICK ROSS

Chief Editor The last time I went to a wedding. It was with the brother of the bride.

HUYEN TRAN

Contributing Writer My last time was when my hubby and I travelled to Tam Dao and we walked around at night. That was also my first time 100-percenting a beer, and I ended up with a terrible headache the next morning. But I do remember I sang really loud the whole way back to the hotel that night!

EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor ed@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

HOA LE Staff Editor hoale@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

DAVID MANN Staff Editor david.mann@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

DAVID HARRIS Staff Photographer david@wordvietnam.com

MARK ALLAN Website & Graphic Designer mark@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Marketing vy@wordvietnam.com

JON ASPIN Staff Writer jon@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

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DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com

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For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Glen Riley, Katie Jacobs, Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Family Medical Practice, Nicola Connolly, Simon Stanley, Harry Hodge, Tae Jun Park, George Burchett, Gus Roe, Akiko, Giang from Dak Nong, Minnie from El Gaucho, Curtis King, Ian Wills and Owen Salisbury

JULIE VOLA

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Staff Photographer It’s for the best that I don’t really remember that night.

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604-59-2899-8

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Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: +84 8 3839 0970 Fax: +84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Võ Thị Kim Thanh Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Bao Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

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In đến 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cm In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Số ĐKKHXB: 99-2015/CXB/36-08/LĐ QĐXB SỐ: 09/QĐCN-LĐ. Ngày 28/01/2015.

ISBN: 978-604-59-2899-8 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy 1 năm 2015.

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 7

The prelude on the beer.

Over the last two years, beer clubs have stormed their way around Hanoi and Saigon, providing a new upmarket, nightclub-like beer drinking experience that previously didn’t exist.

With the beer clubs has come a previously untapped interest in draft beer. In the past, the only people drinking the likes of draft Tiger, Carlsberg or San Miguel were expats. Now the local market is on board.

And with it finally — yes finally, for anyone who likes their lager or ale to come out of a

tap — is the arrival of the big international beers.

Peroni came on tap last month in Saigon, as did that Belgian brew of distinction, Hoegaarden. We’ve already got Red Rock, Gau Den, Saigon Special, Sapporo.

Budvar and Heineken, and later this year expect Stella Artois, Beck’s and possibly even Budweiser.

In one sense this means nothing — beer after all is just beer. It makes you merry, it makes you drunk. It’s great for socialising.

But having spent years going to bars in Singapore, Kuala

Lumpur and Bangkok, and looking on in envy at all the beers they have on tap, now there is a real sense of pride that Vietnam is finally joining the big boy beer club.

It will take time for Vietnam to have a draft beer selection to rival that in Europe, Australia or North America. And it depends entirely on market growth and profitability. But the seeds of having an international beer drinking culture are here.

Now all we need is draft Guinness.

— Nick Ross, Chief Editor

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 2 2015 FEBRUARY 2015 NOT FOR SALE

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T

et inspires many images.

The red envelopes full of lucky money; the fruit on the altar; burning money in metal buckets; endless quantities of food; family members gathering together; people playing cards; and beer, lots of beer.

When we received the go-ahead to run a cover story on beer, we felt the timing was perfect. Like Christmas and New Year in the west, Tet is a time not just for family, but for making merry.

But there was more to choosing this month as the month to bring

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Photo by Francis Xavier Location: El Gaucho

HAVE YOUR SAY DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK — FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM — OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM. NO MATTER HOW POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE YOUR THOUGHTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.

inbox Some Appreciation

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM — WE’RE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS. insider ARTS

Chuc mung nam moi to the whole staff at Word Vietnam!

Festival Season in Vietnam From a 40-DJ festival in a national park to a week of topflight indie acts, to Vietnam’s first comic con, festival chronicler Ed Weinberg has seen the future of the festival in Vietnam, and it is good. Photos by Francis Xavier and Ed Weinberg

Thank you for the great work you’re doing to highlight all that Vietnam has to offer!

Looking forward to seeing the next issue.

— RC Cracking issue last month. A big, meaty read. Not one bad article. Well done! — RR Never knew that shopping malls would make such interesting reading (Mallrats, January 2015). But yes, it’s fascinating to see how Vietnam has and hasn’t adapted to western consumerism.

— AJ

F

NATIONAL

estivals are the paradise of those who live for the weekend. I tried reading through a mass of websearch numbers about them — US$4 billion spent on EDM shows worldwide, circa 2012; some HuffPo article saying 78 percent of Millenials would rather spend their money on ‘experiences’ over ‘things’ — then I put the computer away. It was time to head up to Hanoi for Quest.

Quest Festival Nov. 28 — 30 It was a quest getting to Quest. We started out too late, and were enjoying the countryside journey too much to speed through. We finished our beers at a roadside com place as twilight settled, and there were other complicating factors when we hit the slick of highway gravel at 50km/h.

We had planned on sleeping both nights in the lakeside tents Quest had clustered in one of those team-building campgrounds, right outside of Ba Vi National Park. Instead we passed the Friday 10km away, in a small town next to a military hospital. My passenger Duhwee was waiting for the one doctor on shift to suture the gash below his right knee, while I was holding my raw right arm away from my cream-coloured T-shirt, red-coloured antiseptic dripping on the waiting room floor and eventually my hotel sheets.

When we finally rattled in the next morning it was like a DIY dreamland.

The grounds were strewn with climbable, tire-constructed geodesic domes; fairy-tale wooden bridges and more solidly built sundecks; three music areas in various stages of improvisation; psychedelic, twodimensional owls; mountains towering over everything. The theme was ‘Cosmic Animals’ — a perfect match for the experienced festival-goer’s fancy dress wardrobe. People swam and drank, waiting for sunset.

But — before the all-night party, before Alton Miller’s headlining set of Detroit underground house, before the mellow Sunday afternoon scene of hula-hoops, Indian summer and subaudible bass — there was a sublime moment. In the smallest dance area, 1990s-era hip-hop bounced off a phalanx of teepees. People danced in between, trailing feathers and other festival tat. The sun crept towards the tips of the mountains and people walked slowly by the water’s edge, contemplating the moment at hand.

Saigon International Music Week Nov. 26 — Dec. 4 Getting back to Saigon on Dec. 4, I dropped my bags off at home, and headed down to the last show of Loud Minority’s inaugural Saigon International Music Week — a confluence of the touring schedules of three well-established indie bands, with a Vietnamese showcase thrown in for good measure.

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wordvietnam.com | January 2015 Word | 85

An Apology Word made an error in publishing a comment of Damian Kilroy’s (Festival Season in Vietnam, January 2015) regarding sponsorship. It was said in a supportive tone, which wasn’t captured by the writing.

Apologies to all inconvenienced by this.

Not So Fast The following Facebook post was in response to an article published on wordvietnam.com — Same Sex Marriage Now Legal in Vietnam: For anyone Stateside (or anywhere beyond Vietnam) who will surely see some news about Vietnam’s

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so-called “lift of the gay marriage ban”: The only notable difference that this has made is making it illegal to fine people for holding gay wedding ceremonies. No changes have been made in legal protections, and no difference to last year ’s

changes in cohabitation laws that actually HURT gay couples living together.

This is SORT of promising — but at its core, this is still a ‘charm offensive’, and before we start celebrating Vietnam taking a lead in Asia’s

gay rights fight, we need to remember to push for LASTING and SIGNIFICANT protections (that might actually make it feasible for gay couples to, you know... have families and any kind of legal standing for their relationship). — KH

the talk THE TALK

TALK LEAD

Goats Do Roam And so, apparently, do sheep

S

tarting from Feb. 19 is the Year of the Goat. At least it is in Vietnam.

But as I search trustworthy Google for information on what 2015 will have in store, I discover that apparently it’s also the Year of the Sheep. Or possibly even the Year of the Ram. Although in Vietnam, it’s goats 24/24.

I don’t get it. Sheep and goats are different animals, right? Well, their Latin names are certainly different — sheep are ovis aries while domesticated goats are very definitely capra aegagrus hircus. And while sheep have the pleasure of an entry into the western astrological system as the star sign Aries, goats just don’t quite figure. But they do in Vietnam.

So what year exactly are we heading into?

I decide to search for some Wikipedia truths — yes, we trust in our friend Wikipedia. According to them we are entering the Year of the Goat. Sorry guys, rams and sheep are not on the agenda.

I read on.

In both Vietnamese and Chinese astrology, there are five elements — fire, earth, metal, water and wood. This year goats are wooden. Which means that any child born in 2015 will love peace and be helpful and trusting. Yet, says our online guru, they will also be ‘clinging’, and by nature resistant to change.

But this is not the answer I’m looking for.

What I really want to know is what Vietnam’s Year of the Goat has in store. Will these depressing times finally become a little less depressing? And why the sheep and the rams?

Beyond Wikipedia According to the website gotohoroscope.com, another arbiter of truth with a high ranking on Google, this year is going to be one of the most important years in years. Says the digital sage: Many astrologists conclude from the conditions of 2015 that the processes that have been unfolding and spreading chaos for the past few years are finally wrapping up; both political and economic situations in the world are starting to stabilise.

Okay, this is good. So, Ukraine, IS, Palestine, Israel, ebola, recessions and the general madness gripping the world right now are all going to start finding some conclusions. I can live with that. Continues the SEO favourite: “There have never been

10 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

this many signs and favourable planetary aspects confirming the positive nature of the upcoming changes — we simply can’t ignore these signs.”

The Local Angle I decide to get a Vietnamese take on all this and my first port of call is viethoroscope.com.

People born under the goat sign, it tells us, are artistic and “blessed with an immense talent for creative endeavours”. Goats are also known for their “levelheadedness” and their ability to be “even-tempered”. They are also not easily stressed, too. Not even a mention of sheep.

After entering more search phrases I finally get some success when I stumble on cjvlang.com. According to this website, the reason for the confusion is the Chinese word yáng. Meaning “a ruminant mammal,

generally with horns on its head”, there are many types of yáng including shãnyáng (goat), miányáng (sheep) and língyáng (gazelle).

In other words, goats, sheep and antelopes are all different types of yáng. This is unequivocally the Year of the Yáng. It’s a linguistic issue.

Says the website: “The Japanese, Koreans and Vietnamese have all borrowed the Chinese zodiac and use it to name the years.

What is more, both Japanese and Vietnamese have separate words for sheep and goats, which means that they must make a choice: Is the zodiac animal a sheep or a goat?”

Probably because Vietnam doesn’t have sheep, a clear choice has been made. This year is unequivocally the Year of the Goat.

Let’s just hope it’s a good one. — Nick Ross

the big five

06&07

18

FEB.

Mui Ne

1

THE WINDSURFING CHAMPIONSHIPS

Vietnam’s best windsurfers will once again descend on Mui Ne Bay for the 16th Vietnam Fun Cup, two days of downwind slalom racing hosted by Jibe’s Beach Club.

For the two-day race, 30 pro and amateur competitors from all over the world will congregate, making this spectator-friendly windsurfing display one of the best you’ll

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SATURDAY HCMC

see in Southeast Asia. On top of this, proceeds go to the Ham Tan Orphanage and School for Blind and Disabled Children.

The competition takes place on the beach behind Jibes, which is at 84 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Binh Thuan. For more info on the 16th Vietnam Fun Cup, write to office@ ahivietnam.com

2

40 YEARS OF FRIENDSHIP...

AND KIWIS

As the Vietnamese know, one of the best ways to explore another culture is to eat and drink it. And New Zealand, in honour of its 40th year of diplomatic relations with Vietnam, is putting on its annual wine and food festival, billed as “a culinary journey through New Zealand”. It will be held in the cozy District 7 confines of RMIT, with a special musical performance by Kiwi singer-songwriter Boh Runga. All profits go to the Ba Chieu Girls Home.

The Wine & Food New Zealand Festival happens from 4pm to 10pm on the RMIT lawn, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, HCMC. Tickets are VND1.6 million. For more info, go to facebook. com/wineandfoodnewzealandhcmc

4

WEDNESDAY Hanoi

TET COUNTDOWN PARTY

Every year there are numerous Tet countdown parties, but few can rival the one that will be staged on Wednesday Feb. 18 at the highest bar in Vietnam, Top of Hanoi.

Towering 65 stories above ground level with panoramic city views to boot, the venue is putting on a night of live music, dragon dancing, tunes spun by DJ Julz and a general, all-round feel good party atmosphere. Costing VND700,000 per person (only 400 tickets available), the festivities kick off at 9pm and entrance includes one drink and two snacks.

For more info click on facebook.com/ topofhanoi. Top of Hanoi is way up high in the Lotte Center, Dao Tan, Cong Vi, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

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THURSDAY All of Vietnam

FRIDAY HCMC

JOHN MORALES IS BACK!

After December’s blowout gig alongside Alton Miller, John Morales was so excited by Saigon that he wanted to return as soon as possible. He got his wish, and our city has another chance to witness a legend of nightclub culture work his magic.

John Morales is at The Observatory, 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Free before midnight, VND100,000 after

5

TET

Does it need a mention? Well, we think it does. Not only is Tet the biggest event of the month, it’s the biggest event of the year.

With Vietnam officially closed for business from Sunday Feb. 15 to Sunday Feb. 22, don’t expect much to happen in this week of spending time with family, preparing for the New Year, overeating and overdrinking. But do expect yourself to enjoy it. Few countries take a week off from everything.

From everyone at Word, An Khang Thinh Vuong. Wishing you all health and prosperity for the year ahead.

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 11

briefings VALENTINE’S DAY SPECIAL

HCMC

A Chat with Snow White

Usually seen as a paragon of virtue, Word went digging for Valentine’s advice when we caught up with the enigmatic lead in the Saigon Players production, Snow White and the Seven Nguyens. We talked about love, life and why she’s back in town Word: Hello Snow White, it’s a pleasure to meet you.

SW: Yes it is, thank you humble woodsman.

Word: Err, ok. Snow White, you’ve posted some fairly racy shots on your Instagram account lately. Are you about to go all Miley Cyrus on us?

SW: What?! What is Instagram?

You must be thinking of someone else.

Word: Are you saying @ snowyfromfaraway is a fake account?

SW: (blushing) Listen, I am an innocent, natureloving princess. Miley and I are friends, but we have a very different sense of fashion.

Word: Ok, but what about your very public twitter spat with Sleeping Beauty?

Was that fake too?

SW: Ah, Sleeping Beauty has always been jealous of me, I can’t seem to appease her envy. I guess I trump her on both of her strengths, but you’ve heard what the magic mirror says.

Word: Yes, you are the fairest of them all, but you must be like 200 years old — what’s your secret?

SW: How impolite! I couldn’t possibly reveal my true age. If anything, I get more youthful and more beautiful with each passing year.

Lucky me!

Word: Let’s move on. It’s Valentine’s Day this month. Are you a one fairytale princess, one prince kinda girl, or did you sleep in every one of the dwarves’ beds for a reason?

SW: Tee hee, how silly of you! I am most certainly a one princess, one prince kind of girl.

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Have you seen Prince Charming? He is the best looking, most charming, most brave and most dashing man in the whole wide world!

Word: If you say so. I’m sure our readers would love to know what you two get up to on Valentine’s?

SW: Well, usually the huntsman keeps me company while I wait for Prince Charming, but in the Faraway Kingdom every day is Valentine’s Day! Word: Oh dear, what an awkward menage-atrois. Is that why you’re back playing with a bunch of Vietnamese guys’ hearts again? The Nguyen brothers?

SW: The Nguyen family are my friends, they took me in when I had no idea where I was.

Somehow I just ended up back here in Vietnam!

Word: Really? Had you been sleeping in the mushroom field? Or were you just at Lush this whole time?

SW: I have never been to Lush. Is it a beautiful part of the forest?

Word: No. How about some advice for the wannabe Prince Charmings out there. How can they find a fairytale princess like you?

SW: They should be devilishly handsome, well mannered and well groomed. A true prince should always be prepared to save the day in the most charming way possible… so it helps if they have a nice big sword!

Word: Thank you Snow White, I think we’re going to leave it at that.

SW: Thank you humble woodsman, I look forward to seeing you at my show.

You can see Snow White and the Seven Nguyens — back by popular demand — at The Vista Walk, P2 level, 628C Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, HCMC on Saturday Feb. 7. There are two performances — one at 3pm and the second at 5.30pm. Tickets cost VND200,000. For more information email: saigonplayers@gmail.com

briefings

BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

Love Market

A locally made documentary debunks the myths about Vietnam’s love markets

O

nce upon a time, deep in the hills of northern Vietnam, an ethnic Giay girl and a Nung boy fell in love. But the young girl was so beautiful that her family would not let her marry into a different tribe and fighting soon broke out between the two families.

Broken hearted, the lovers parted, secretly agreeing to meet every year at the market in the remote town of Khau Vai. For one day, once a year, for their entire lives, they had a brief moment in which to share their love.

Fast forward a century or so and Khau Vai is now the site an annual ‘Love Market’.

In honour of this romantic story, the yearly market is a time when young men and women come to sing, dance, shop, and (hopefully) meet the love of their life.

But is this tale of forbidden love an ancient myth stemming from the mountains or a modern day fallacy created to attract tourists and draw attention to this remote pocket of the country? In his new documentary, Vibrant Highland, Commercial Love, Hanoibased filmmaker Matt Dworzanczyk goes in search of a real life couple that fell in love at the Love Market.

“It’s a story of wild and exotic love.”

Dworzanczyk explains. “It’s a story of tribal kings and the opium trade. It’s a story of kidnapping and loss. It’s a story of sexual discovery, of spirits and magic. It’s a story of government control versus the fascinating and harrowing reality of the people.”

Myth and Reality The film opens with sweeping shots of a beautiful, desolate landscape in the remote hills of Ha Giang. Filmed in a narrative style, Matt leads the audience into the depths of Vietnam’s northwest, an area very few of us get the time or opportunity to travel to. Filled with fantastic cinematography interspersed with moments

of creative shadow-puppetry, the movie is an entertaining journey of serious issues and well timed comic relief. It is not just a documentary, it is an adventure travelogue.

Shot in five trips over two years, the film follows Dworzanczyk into the heart of the northwest and introduces us not only to the stunning rocky landscape, but also to the people that call it home. It is a journey to discover the truth behind the mythical Love Market, and who knows what we’ll find on the way.

“I started out by trying to find the history and legends behind the Love Market,” says Dworzanczyk, “but what I came to realise is that the people are so much more interesting than the myths.”

The story takes a winding, abstract road. There is no climax and no great revelation. Yes we do find the Love Market and Dworzanczyk does come to a loose conclusion on how and why it exists (I don’t want to give anything away) but that’s not the ‘ah-ha’ moment. The highlight is the pure pleasure of watching such a beautifully made film about a fascinating area of the world.

All of this is set to the backdrop of a score composed by musician Josh Kopeček. Played on a traditional khen — a stringed H’mong instrument transported all the way from Khau Vai — the music is a mix of modern influences and traditional sounds. It is a reflection of how the film has entwined pieces of history with a modern day event.

The result is 90 minutes of beautiful scenery, interesting stories, and great music.

Vibrant Highland, Commercial Love is a must see for anyone curious about in the culture, history and people of the region.

To see a trailer of the documentary, do a search on You Tube for Vibrant Highland, Commercial Love. To find out where you can see the movie, go to etheriumsky.com or email etheriumsky@gmail. com – Katie Jacobs

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 13

briefings BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

Vietnam Festival Calendar 2015 With the biggest festival of them all just around the corner, it’s time to see what else 2015 has in store

W

hile Vietnam’s festival calendar isn’t filled with guidebook exclamation marks like Thailand’s Songkran or

Myanmar’s fire balloons, what the country does have is remarkably varied, owing to a range of influences. Many are hard to access but it’s worth trying — what you’ll

The rivers leading to the Perfume Pagoda

Traditional Festivals The Perfume Pagoda Festival When: 1st lunar month, 6th day, through 3rd lunar month — Feb. 24 through mid-May Where: Huong Pagoda, My Duc, Hanoi Second only to Tet in popularity, this festival attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims every year to the Perfume Pagoda, the most famous Buddhist pilgrimage site in Vietnam.

Pilgrims take boats up the Yen River, young women usually ‘manning’ the paddles, past rice paddies and jagged limestone karsts.

Then they climb hundreds of stone steps to get to the network of caves that makes up the Perfume Pagoda.

Vietnamese people believe that Huong

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find are traditions preserved intact, often without the self-consciousness that goes along with overexposure. Read on to see our picks:

The Quan Ho Folk Song Festival in Lim Village near Hanoi

Son, the commune where the pagoda is located, is ‘Buddha’s Heaven’. The 15th to 20th of the 2nd lunar month — Apr. 3 to Apr. 8 this year — are the main days of celebration, supposedly a good time for starting romantic courtships.

Quan Ho Folk Song Festival When: 1st lunar month, 13th day — Mar. 3 Where: Lim Village, close to Hanoi The Lim Festival attracts tens of thousands of visitors each year, to hear the sweet quan ho songs sang in the UNESCO-recognised art form’s traditional birthplace. Here one can hear exchanges of hope and yearning sung by the country’s top quan ho singers, in traditional surroundings like pagodas and fields.

There are also traditional temple games played. In one, a teenage girl must hold a stranger’s baby, cook rice from a fire she starts with chewed sugar cane for fuel, and keep a frog from leaping out of a circle. If the baby cries, the fire goes out or the frog escapes, the girl loses.

Animal Festivals The Buffalo Sacrifice Festival When: 12th lunar month through 3rd lunar month — mid-January through mid-May Where: Tay Nguyen region, Central Highlands Unlike the Do Son Buffalo Fighting Festival — held in Hai Phong on Sep. 21 this year — the premiere festival of the Central

Highlands’ ethnic communities is more of a gorefest. Trees are chopped down and carved, drums are beaten and a lot of buffalo are killed. Men who can kill buffalo with a single stab are honoured, and the meat of their kill is shared. Buffalo horns are hung on the village’s communal house, and buffalo blood is used to wash village treasures.

In addition to all the buffalo killing, there’s dancing, praying and women trying to splash men with water. This part isn’t any less serious than the main event — men splashed by the water will supposedly have a hard time getting married in the future.

The Whale Festival When: Middle of 3rd lunar month — late-April to early-May Where: Fishing villages that worship whales According to legend, Emperor Gia Long’s ship

Where: An Giang Province, Mekong Delta Let’s put aside the fable-like title for a moment — at its heart, An Giang’s Cow Racing Festival is an ancestor worship festival. It begins with a visit to the pagoda, and the souls of the dead are invited to eat with the living. If any visitors — you?

— appear during the festival, they’ll be taken as messengers sent in proxy by their ancestors.

Then banana tree rafts are sent down the river, carrying offerings. And then! It’s cow racing time.

The race is set in a muddy paddy field, with pairs of cows harnessed to a jockey sliding around on this wooden jet-ski apparatus. It gets a bit messy. Part rodeo, part picnic and part comedy of errors, the Cow Racing Festival is the premiere event of the barnyard animal racing season.

The Khmer Cow Racing Festival in An Giang

was once saved by a helpful whale — and from that moment on, whales were accepted throughout the country as gods. Fishermen were especially receptive to this tradition, and still build temples to store whalebones.

For two days in the third lunar month, villagers and fishing boats in these seaside towns join in celebrating the whale gods, with peace offerings offered (no seafood), a boat procession to demonstrate the fishermen’s sincerity and classical operas to soothe those not-so-savage beasts.

Racing Festivals Khmer Cow Racing Festival When: Last day of the Khmer calendar — Apr. 13

Quirky Festivals The Reproductive Organs Festival When: 1st lunar month, 11th day, at midnight — Mar. 1 Where: Phu Tho Province, Northern Vietnam While Japan’s wooden penis festivals get all the press, Tu Xa Commune in Phu Tho Province has a genital festival of its own — the Tro Tram Festival. No — the penis — and nuong — the vagina — are carved from wood, then put into a box, which is then put into a shrine. The shrine door is opened at midnight, and prayers for a successful year are said.

The next day is the fun part, when a “muscular man” and a “graceful woman” hold their carved counterparts, knocking them together as the crowd chants. Young people “[open]up their soul”, older

The Elephant Racing Festival in Dak Lak

Elephant Racing Festival When: 3rd lunar month — mid-April to mid-May Where: Don Village, Dak Lak Province The M’nong ethnic group loves their elephants, but then again, so does all of Vietnam. They’ve been involved in wars and figured into folklore. And the Elephant Racing Festival is the time of year they are honoured.

First, elephants from surrounding villages will be pitted in races against each other, and the winner of each race will be feted with sugarcane, bananas and a wreath. Then the elephants take to the Serepok River for a swimming competition, or games like football and tug-of-war. Winning elephants have been known to raise their trunks in glory.

people remember their young and naïve days. Under ‘Entertaining Activities’, holidaysvietnam.com says “lots of loves are made”.

The Parasite-Killing Festival When: 5th lunar month, 5th day — Jun. 20 Where: The whole of the country It’s the Summer Solstice, your hay fever is acting up, so you might as well take in some sour foods like oranges, limes, rice wine and tro cake to cleanse your stomach and your soul. Put some offerings in for your ancestors while you’re at it. In an agricultural country like Vietnam, food is usually the cure for what ails you — or what might.

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 15

briefings

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

Vietnamese Wrestling Gus Roe comes in full contact with an ancient martial art

O

ne day a long time ago, a flash flood ravaged the commune of Liem Tuc. One of the villagers, Doan, ran to give aid to people in the affected areas. But when he arrived at the scene of the flooding, he found a glowing sword resting on a red cloth. He accepted this sacred gift and tied the sword around his waist with the cloth.

Some time later Doan was called upon to defend the country. He became a fierce, near-invulnerable warrior, famed for his sword and grappling skills.

Eventually he was killed in battle. On hearing the news, his wife, Bui, died of grief.

So struck were the people of Liem Tuc by the death of the couple, that they began to venerate them, and worship their memory. Over time Doan and Bui were given the titles Thanh Ong and Tien Ba — god and goddess. To pay homage, every year the villagers of Lieu Doi in Liem Tuc hold a traditional wrestling festival. ********** I’m a martial artist and a documentarian based

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in Hanoi. Last year when I was offered the chance to go the dau vat festival during Tet, I couldn’t refuse. I spent some time the month before researching the village and connecting with the locals. A pro fighter, Linh, and his friend Thuy agreed to give me some training.

When I arrived on the day of the festival, I had no idea what to expect. This is the diary of my experience.

5am A nearly 1,000-person-strong parade leads from the ancient soi vat wrestling arena to Doan’s shrine outside the village. The village elders perform rituals, burn incense and deliver gifts requesting luck for the coming year. The offerings are ‘accepted’ by the ancestors and the parade pours back into the village square.

7am The fighters divide into four groups and take position around a worn canvas tarpaulin on

a bed of straw. The festival begins with one of the oldest villagers reenacting the legend of Doan.

9am Time to fight. The first few bouts are symbolic, known as trai rot. The local sons born on the previous year’s most auspicious dates must wrestle. As they’re less than one year old, their fathers or grandfathers tag in for them.

10.30am Two old guys take to the canvas and start to fight. I ask Thuy their age and my jaw hits the floor: one is 84, the other is 87. As we watch Thuy tells me about how dangerous the festival used to be, and points out the scarred faces and torn ears of some of the older competitors. These are some serious fighters.

11am My turn. I nervously get to my feet and take to the canvas, but it’s over quickly. My

competitor shoots down and takes me off balance. I topple over and nothing’s hurt except for my pride. The next fights go a little better. With my weight advantage I manage to throw my opponents, remaining in the running — barely.

Day 2 7am My first fight of the day, and I’m paired with the most heavy-set guy in the district. We grapple and both hit the floor, his feet are in the air moments before mine. I win on a technicality.

Next I face Linh, and I’m dreading it. This fight’s much longer, I get in a few good grabs before Linh darts down and gets hold of my leg, slamming me down onto my back and neck. Officially I’m out of the running.

11am There is a traditional display fight between Linh and another pro, Truong. This bout has no time limit. Six minutes of full contact, adrenalin-fuelled wrestling. Their exhaustion is soon clear. This is my personal highlight of the event — seeing this art used just like in real combat all those years before.

Day 3 8am My mentor Linh is named giai coc, champion.

Just when I think it’s all over, an elder leans over and tells me: “Now we have the giai coc fights — these are the important ones!”

Linh sits in the centre of the ring wearing Doan’s red scarf. Any competitor can walk in and challenge him. Five fighters take the opportunity, but Linh takes them out one by one. Finally, he’s declared the grand champion. The crowd cheer and the village is honoured.

Linh is presented with Doan’s red cloth and ceremonial sword.

11am The elders invite us to join them, and we sit on a straw mat in front of the shrine drinking tea.

As we chat they explain why it’s so important to keep dau vat alive. It’s one of the very few truly indigenous Vietnamese martial arts.

2pm We’re back on the road to Hanoi, bruised, aching, but amazed. It’s hard to believe that this world is so close to the capital. Now I can start training for next time.

A Quick Guide to Dau Vat Dau Vat or traditional Vietnamese wrestling festivals are held on the fifth day of Tet in Lieu Doi Village, Liem Tuc, Ha Nam Province, just south of Hanoi.

The festival is a tribute to the God of Martial Arts, Thanh Ong. The rules of the festival are as follows: — Each fighter has a minimum of six contests — To stay in the competition they must win 50 percent of their matches — The first person to be taken down on their back or thrown loses — Prizes are small, but people fight for honour

briefings IN TRANSITION

HCMC

Deutsches Haus (cnr. Le Duan and Le Van Huu, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City)

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P

lants line the wallboard circling the under-construction office tower, along with people waiting for their turn in the US Consulate line. Sidewalk vendors cater to this buttoned-down overflow, seats all facing the nondescript yellow consulate walls.

Xe om drivers perch on their bikes, women in eveningwear and dust masks line the tree-shadows; construction workers laugh and smoke with a background of dust. The skateboard kids haven’t yet reclaimed this officialbusiness stretch of downtown, and this empty sidewalk is the one place in the vicinity with a more relaxed 9-to-5 feel.

But this plastic chair idyll won’t last forever.

In the third quarter of 2017, the 25-storey Deutsches Haus will open its glass-and-steel frame, and will be home to the Consulate General of the Federal Republic of Germany. It will also become a destination for German companies and

expats looking to enjoy its LEED-certified German precision. The 40,000sqm of total floor area will include the type of open pedestrian plaza rarely seen in Saigon, where most developers insist on building out to the edge of the sidewalk. That’s a luxury afforded by the type of sweetheart deal the German General Consulate struck early last year, leasing the 3,500sqm lot for 99 years from the municipality for a symbolic price of VND1.

The German firm Von Gerkan, Marg und Partner (gmp) are the lead architects on the project, and they’ve done their homework.

It started with a 2010 Goethe-Institut Hanoi workshop, brainstorming the development with 24 Vietnamese and German participants. With 440 prizes in national and international competitions and over 290 executed projects — including Berlin Central Station, Olympic Stadium Berlin, the National Convention Centre in Hanoi and the soon-to-be-completed Museum for the History of Hanoi — gmp are seen as a

trustworthy partner in the development of the future Saigon skyline. Local firm TWOG Architecture Joint Stock Co. are assisting.

As the 40-year anniversary of diplomatic relations between Vietnam and Germany arrives, this new development will become the southern city’s most notable German presence — one that will hopefully act as the type of cultural base Hanoi has in their Goethe-Institut.

Construction started in October of this year, though the work has been mostly foundation-oriented. For now, the unused sidewalk is a welcome concession to local street culture, and the lunchtime crowds outnumber the visa-seekers for the American Consulate just across the road.

This kerbside culture can only exist in the gaps in development, and we might be witnessing its last gasps on busy Le Duan.

— Ed Weinberg For more information on Deutsches Haus and projections of the finished design, visit deutscheshausvietnam.com

Photos by Francis Xavier

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 19

Photos by Julie Vola

briefings

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

Je Suis Charlie

W

A local tribute to an international event

ednesday afternoon, I am quickly looking through Facebook when I see a post with a link and just this comment: “truly horrible…”

Something has happened and it’s there. The news. I can’t believe what I am reading.

Two gunmen have attacked Charlie Hebdo, a weekly satirical newspaper, during their editorial meeting. 12 dead.

I am shocked.

Charlie Hebdo was, no… is, satirical, irreverent, without taboos, politically inappropriate, controversial, an agitator, and one of the best representatives of the French concept of ‘freedom of speech’. Known for its caricatures of Mohammed, the newspaper was attacked in 2011 and has been under police protection for years.

Part of a long tradition of French satirical newspapers, a tradition that started in the Age of Enlightenment, the era that gave us the French Revolution, Charlie Hebdo comes from beliefs that are deeply anchored in French society and culture — the mocking of politics, religion and self-righteousness

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exactly where it hurts the most.

Can we laugh at everything? It is a question asked of every French high school student during their philosophy exams. Is it responsible for provoking religious and racial tensions? Can we, in France, have freedom of expression and try to limit it if it goes into the bounds of blasphemy and racism, or is it simply too offensive or provocative? Charlie Hebdo’s answer is clear.

It’s a right. It’s a duty.

Solidarity The French community in Hanoi is united by a common understanding — every single one of us is shocked.

The French Embassy organise a tribute on the Thursday and the French owners of the RockStore host a get-together on the Friday.

At the Embassy the atmosphere is solemn and dignified. We light candles, speak softly and smoke cigarettes in the garden.

Questions like ‘how are you?’ seem stupid and out of place, the answer is impossible and I apologise as I ask the question myself.

We exchange our memories of Charlie Hebdo, the cartoonists Cabu, Wolinsky and Tignous.

What is “your Charlie”? When did you read it for the first time? You too read Wolinsky when you were young?

Friday, braving the cold, rain and traffic, I arrive at RockStore. There are big signs ‘Je suis Charlie’ on the wall and an invitation to draw some cartoons. There are some people from the Embassy, French tourists, some young expats, different nationalities, but not a lot. It’s really bad weather outside, but we are together and it’s important. The emotion from the day before has cooled down a bit.

There are debates already taking place.

What are the consequences of what happened? How will it affect society, the French Republic?

Charlie Hebdo wasn’t a big part of my life; I am not one of their readers. But they represent ‘freedom of speech’ and their presence is assuring. Nothing was sacred to them. They have courage and are rebellious.

And like most French, I happy they are here.

— Julie Vola

Pets of the Month: Yours!

A

RC doesn’t just do pet rescue.

They’re also a community of people who love cute animals — and really, isn’t that all of us?

Though the byzantine rules of pet housing here don’t allow ARC to house dogs in the way they house cats, that doesn’t mean they don’t care. And for the past couple of months, they’ve been showing how much, by organising twice monthly dog walks on Saturday afternoons. They usually cover about 5km, taking different routes around Thao Dien with the doggie parade.

In addition to the dogs people bring, ARC also takes out dogs who are waiting

to be fostered and re-homed — a nice way of getting dog lovers to meet cute dogs in a casual setting. And if you’re game, they’ll be spayed, fully vaccinated and waiting for you to take him home today. Contact arcpets@gmail.com to make your date with doggie destiny, or check their Facebook page for announcements.

Tet Staycations ARC is in need of foster homes to care for their foster cats during Tet. If you’re staying around why not make your hols a bit more interesting by getting to know one of ARC’s brood. Contact arcpets@gmail. com to see how you can help.

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 21

briefings

Saigon Players’ Month Community Outreach

Charity of the

Saigon’s community theatre contributes more than just art

“S

o, moving up to the next item on the agenda,” says the Saigon Players’ secretary Stuart Turner, “we’re up to choosing the charity. How do we feel about the options for the next show?”

I’m sitting in on Saigon Players’ Steering Committee meeting for their upcoming performance of Death and the Maiden (Mar. 11 to Mar. 14, venue TBA). I want to know about the charity work that’s seen them donate VND20 to 30 million per show to various charities over the past 11 years.

“Well,” says producer-director Jennifer Dizon Turner, “I suggested the Little Rose Shelter, because the theme is assault on a woman, and Little Rose Shelter supports girls who have been in that kind of situation.”

“How did we find out about them?” someone says, for my benefit.

“We actually helped them previously,” Jennifer says. “We’ve donated to some charities many times, we want to keep the partnership going.”

At the other end of the production cycle, Saigon Players have sponsored 30 HIV-positive and AIDS-orphaned children through Helping Hand Saigon, raised money for wells built by the Christina

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Noble Foundation and raised funds and awareness for 16 other non-profits and orphanages.

The proceeds from shows are typically split between more than one charity, with thematic and regional connections, and tangible results. Just as Jennifer thought of Little Rose Shelter for the upcoming production, so too did road safety charity AIP Foundation come to mind when putting on the moto-centric Life Cycle of Saigon. And the other charity supported by Life Cycle was Helping Hand Saigon — they wanted to help the organisation fund their Christmas party.

The Pitch This Feb. 7, Snow White and the Seven Nguyens is getting two encore performances. With the commitment to Viet Hearts already fulfilled, they’re looking to choose a new beneficiary.

Jean-Marc is 60ish, French, a lifelong volunteer who has spent years in aid work in Africa and India. “So basically I got burned out supporting orphanages,” he starts, “because there was too much corruption.

And now I’m working with these two guys.

One is still at the orphanage [that Jean-Marc had volunteered at]. For 12 years he’s been going every day at the orphanage... I trust

him. He’s still at that same rotten orphanage, but we don’t go through the rotten woman.”

The other charity work of the man JeanMarc trusts, Dominique Broncard, is through an organisation called Gia Dinh Co Don, which is supporting the school fees of 18 children in Loc Ninh, near the Cambodian border. Their families’ land is being taken for rubber plantations, and what’s left isn’t enough — Dominique first learnt about their plight at that “rotten orphanage” where some of their children were sent.

Pitch No. 2 is in support of a VietnameseCanadian piano teacher named Nguyen Quoc My. For 16 years, his organisation Dat Viet has supported the children of Ben San

Leprosy Centre in Binh Duong Province. The children aren’t sick, but their families are destitute. For now, Dat Viet supports each of the 78 school-age children with VND1 million per year — and they want to double that amount. In the 16 years that My has helped the children of Ben San, 60 of them have gone through university — one Ph.D holder among their number.

The presentation goes on far longer than we have space for, and convinces us all.

Jean-Marc’s wife Sabine, also a member of Saigon Players, balks at any praise of the work she shares with her husband. “Who are we?” she says. “Just little nobodies who have a heart.”

It’s her way of saying something the Players would agree with, that it’s the least they could do. — Ed Weinberg You can support the work of Little Rose Shelter by going to littleroseshelter.wordpress.com; Gia Dinh Co Don by contacting Dominique Broncard at domkko@hotmail.com; and Dat Viet through Nguyen Quoc My at myquocnguyen@gmail. com.

Or just go to the upcoming performance of Snow White and the Seven Nguyens on Feb. 7, where all of the proceeds from the VND200,000 tickets will be donated to charity. Shows are at 3pm and 5.30pm at Vista Walk, Level P2, 628C Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, HCMC. Check saigonplayers. com for more info

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 23

Sports Digest

#

IN BRIEF

Play Hard, Smoke Less Smoking should be kept to a minimum in the stands and technical areas during the matches of the top-flight V-League from the 2015 season which started earlier in January, the Vietnam Professional Football (VPF) has announced, citing new regulations, according to Tuoi Tre. Pham Ngoc Vien, VPF general director, said fans, officials and coaches will be required to refrain from smoking during V-League games from next year onward.

Teen Tennis Phenom Eyes Davis Cup, SEA Games Vietnam’s No. 1 tennis player Ly Hoang Nam will be part of the team that will compete in the 2015 Davis Cup Asia/Oceania Zone Group III matches in April, according to Vietnam News.

Eight teams will compete in this group, including Cambodia, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Qatar and Vietnam. Nam, 18, will also be a key player for the national team that will compete in the 28th Southeast Asian Games in June in Singapore.

Color Me Run Returns Registration has started for again for the Color Me Run in Ho Chi Minh City, according to the event’s Facebook page. Registration fees are VND550,000 per person, and VND500,000 per individual in a group of 10 or more.

Applications for volunteers are also being accepted. There will also be similar events this year held in Hanoi and Danang.

This year’s event will take place on Apr. 11. For more info, visit colormerun.vn.

Martial Arts Elite Headed For HCMC The 2015 World Martial Arts Festival will be held in Ho Chi Minh City from Apr. 19 to Apr. 25, according to Vietnam News.

The competition is expected to attract thousands of athletes competing in 20 disciplines from all over the world, including China, Japan, and Canada.

A martial arts workshop and exchanges between competitors will also take place.

SPORTS DIGEST

NATIONAL

Never Too Cool For Pride in Your School From the sidelines, Harry Hodge sizes up Vietnam’s month in sports

M

arch Madness is huge for college sports fans in North America, but in Vietnam the party kicks off in January.

The Vietnam University Games (VUG), a multidisciplinary interuniversity competition, sees schools participating in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and recent addition Danang for bragging rights at the top of the nation’s sports heap. And while America’s NCAA tournaments may show university athletics at the highest level, both from sports and marketing standpoints, the Vietnamese version has carved out their own niche to make the event unique here.

XLE Group spokesperson Thao Le, whose company also operates Saigon Heat of the ASEAN Basketball League, told Word that the friendly competition is beneficial for a number of reasons. “(The Games) help encourage school pride, sports

passion and make students live in a healthy way,” Thao says. “Each school always has something to be proud of.

“Every school is required to create their own school logo, their own colours and a mascot.

And besides the official prizes for futsal and the dance battle, VUG also has the most valuable prize for the school which has the best school spirit.”

Capturing this youthful enthusiasm makes for some colourful events, in evidence when I watched fans from different schools cheering on their teams during the 2012 basketball events at Tan Binh Stadium. Each school had chosen their own sections of the cavernous gym, so that the stands looked like blocks of moving colour. Many fans also didn’t seem to mind cheering on other schools if their own was not playing at the time.

Thao says this gives students an outlet from the pressure of constant study.

“Most Vietnamese universities focus on studying and don’t care about outside activities,” Thao says. “But the VUG has created an opportunity for all universities in Vietnam to change that mindset. “[These] competitions not only help encourage sports passion for students, but also the love and pride for their own school.”

Photos provided by Vietnam University Games

Vietnam University Games’ Ho Chi Minh City Schedule — Apr. 11: HCMC futsal (an indoors version of five-a-side football) quarter-finals and HCMC dance battle day one — Apr. 18: HCMC futsal semi-finals and HCMC dance battle day two — Apr. 19: HCMC futsal final — May 9: National futsal final — May 10: National dance battle final

For additional information, visit vug.vn now and throughout the competition. All the above events will be held at Ho Chi Minh City’s Tan Binh Stadium

Vietnam Volleyball Hosts Women’s Tourney

Team Folds due MatchFixing Scandal

The annual International Women’s Volleyball Championships is scheduled to kick off in Vietnam in March, reports Vietnam News.

The winners of this year’s tournament will walk away with US$15,000 (VND320 million), while the runnersup will receive US$6,000 (VND128 million). Prizes will also be awarded to outstanding individuals.

The tournament, which is also known as the VTVBinh Dien Cup, will see the participation of four domestic and four foreign teams competing in a round robin format before the top four teams progress to the semi-finals.

Vietnam will be represented by sponsored teams from LienVietPostBank, VTV-Binh Dien Long An, VietinBank and Thanh Hoa, while the foreign invitees are Kazakhstan, Fujian Club of China, Bangkok Glass of Thailand and North Korea.

The chairman of the scandalplagued Vissai Ninh Binh football club filed a petition to shut down the club after nine players were convicted of gambling and banned from playing for life, reports Thanh Nien.

Chairman Pham Van Le said team leaders no longer have the heart and motivation to carry on under the cloud of disgrace that settled over them during the match-fixing scandal that broke during the 2014 AFC Cup. Earlier in January, the northern club’s headquarters was closed to all of its divisions.

Even its Under-13, Under-15 and Under-19 teams were told to go home and await an official decision from the provincial administration.

On Dec. 25, Vietnam Professional Football’s Disciplinary Board issued a decision that banned the nine former Vissai Ninh Binh players for life, in addition to fining them an additional VND20 million each for gambling and match fixing.

Health an Issue as V-League Clubs Make Moves

Hang Hangs ‘em Up

The season is early, but some of the V-League’s notable imports have already been shown the door.

Thanh Hoa fired Nigerian striker Timothy Anjembe after just two rounds of the Toyota V-League 1. The main reasons were his poor performance and lack of discipline during training, the club announced.

Thanh Hoa has since signed a contract with Brazilian Patrick Roberto Daniel Da Silva to strengthen its chances of winning ahead of the V-League 1’s third round. Anjembe was the best V-League scorer in 2012 with 17 goals, when he played for Ha Noi FC. Last season, he netted 18 times for Hoang Anh Gia Lai. Hoang Anh Gia Lai have also announced intentions to cut loose Slovenian midfielder Morec Mitja and Swedish striker Darko Lukanovic. Mitja has a heart condition, while Lukanovic “does not meet the team managers’ requirements”, reports say.

Vietnamese track-and-field queen Truong Thanh Hang has decided to retire from competition, says Vietnam News.

The 28-year-old athlete has not recovered from an injury she received during training three years ago. While practising with teammates in Danang, she was hit from behind by a motorcycle, injuring her right leg in the incident.

She is one of Asia’s foremost middle-distance runners, having been the Asian champion in the 800m indoor and outdoor events.

She was a double silver medalist at the 2010 Asian Games. She was also very successful at the Southeast Asian Games, where she won gold medals on five occasions from 2005 to 2009, in s addition to being date the Vietnamese us upyour d n e r S bout record holder a g group o@ n harry i t r in both the o sp nt to .com 800m and eve vietnam d r o w 1,500m events.

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 25

to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

Valentine’s Day Cupid’s coming, but sometimes he needs a little help to get there. Give those arrows a bigger target by taking your sweetheart on these fun dates

Au Lac Do Brazil aulacdobrazil.com They may not have won the World Cup, but everybody knows Brazilians do love better than the rest of us mere mortals. That’s why you should totally get on board the Brazilian love train at Au Lac Do Brazil this Valentine’s.

They’re promising a special night for special couples, an “unforgettable evening” in fact, with a traditional all-you-can-eat Brazilian style barbecue and romantic ambience. Get there either between 11am and 2pm or 5pm and 11pm on Feb. 14 to enjoy music, a couples’ cocktail and a special gift for the ladies! No word on how much it costs at this stage, but who can put a price on love, right?

Novotel Nha Trang novotel-nhatrang.com Both The Square restaurant buffet and a poolside BBQ are on offer this Feb. 14, where VND525,000++ per person will get you the aforementioned buffet, and VND630,000++ per person will pay for the pre-dinner cocktails, live music and complimentary rose. There’s also a free flow of beer and soft drinks, and a fun lucky draw going down.

Park Hyatt Saigon parkhyattsaigon.com If you’re looking to make a good impression, Park Hyatt

Saigon has everything to make this Valentine’s Day unforgettable. You can’t go wrong with dinner so take your darling to Opera or Square One restaurant on Feb. 14 and indulge in a sumptuous five-course menu.

Set in the incandescent light of one of Saigon’s finest dining venues, dinner at Opera (VND3,333,000 net) per couple includes one glass of Prosecco rose for you and your love.

The dinner for two at Square One (VND 5,555,000 net) also includes one glass of Moet & Chandon Rose per person. To express yourself through food even more, try their delectable range of macarons (VND90,000++) available in a range of sweet sweet lovin’ flavours throughout February. Be careful, though, you’ll be saying ‘I do’ before you know it with this type of help on your side.

07

SATURDAY

COOKING AT BLANCHY STREET Iron Chefs get ready! Allez cuisine! Impress everyone you know by cooking Japanese food like a pro after just one class!

Learn the secrets to some classics: the chicken teriyaki, tuna sashimi salad, and spicy udon noodle soup. Be tutored by chefs Oba and Martin at Blanchy Street, and get ready to have

fun. For VND800,000 for one or with a 10 percent discount for bookings of two or more, this sounds a great value Saturday afternoon for you and a friend.

Don’t be late, class starts at 2pm!

To book, email Ilda at i.briosca@ saigoncookingclass.com. Check out facebook.com/SCCbyBlanchyStreet for more info

11 WEDNESDAY

Sheraton Saigon sheratonsaigon.com Valentine’s romance isn’t dead with the Romance in Paris night Sheraton has going on Feb. 14. This is the ultimate candle-lit degustation menu at Level 23 Signature Restaurant for VND1.9 million++ per person.

The Lounge will also be offering up champagne and fresh strawberries for VND280,000++ on the big day, from 8am till late. Sounds decadent enough to us!

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SKETCHES FROM OLD SAIGON L’usine is getting into the art game with a solo exhibition by local artist Le Hung Trong, a selection of 20 line drawings and watercolours from his upcoming book Saigon Xua. These drawings are a celebration of Saigon’s chaos and charm, harkening back to iconic landmarks and

forgotten images. Attendees will also be able to grab a copy of his book, making its retail debut.

L’usine Dong Khoi’s opening party for Le Hung Trong’s Saigon Xua exhibit goes from 6pm to 9pm, at 151/1 Dong Khoi, Q1, HCMC. For a sneak peek, check out saigonsaigon.weebly.com

22

UNTIL FEB.

THE CAT DREAMS IN COLOUR The vivid paintings that make up Nguyen Huong Duong’s latest exhibition are spotted with splashes of colour everywhere, in the ‘action painting’ style.

Born in the Year of the Cat, the painter has tried to portray his dreams on canvas — and they

#

come into this world like the elliptical, fleeting impressions you might imagine cats ponder.

Meo Mo Mau Me hangs at the Craig Thomas Gallery — 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, HCMC — until Feb. 22. For a glimpse, go to cthomasgallery.com

ALL MONTH

FLOWER ON TEXTILE In their ongoing collaboration with Phuong My’s Flagship Store, San Art unleashes Nguyen Huu Tram Kha on these fashion-inspired woodblock prints. As Phuong My’s new spring collection focuses on the beauty of flowery print on textile, so too does this exhibit — dating back to the Japanese 19th century tradition.

Visit the Phuong My Flagship Store at 81 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC to see Nguyen Huu Tram Kha’s woodblock print art. Go to san-art.org for more info

BYO HITS CHILL! chillsaigon.com From now until the end of February, Chill Skybar wants you to show them your bottle.

Bring-your-own-bottle is their new concept for Mondays.

Indulge in your own favourites and enjoy no corkage while you take in the panoramic views Chill is famous for. They say it’s more fun enjoying their

signature dishes while drinking your own wine at no extra cost and, well, we’re going to have to go ahead and agree with that.

What can you do to make your Monday more exciting? Looks like you have an answer.

Chill Skybar and its restaurant, 27 Grill, are way up high on Floor 26 and 27, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, HCMC

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A COPY OF WORD IN HO CHI MINH CITY, THESE FRIENDLY NEIGHBOURHOOD DISTRIBUTION CENTRES SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP: DISTRICT 1 Au Lac Do Brazil Au Parc Bacchus Corner Bibi @ Alibi Black Cat Blanchy's Street Bootleg DJ Café Café Centro Chicco Dicaff Café Chi's Café Ciao Bella Decibel Drunken Duck El Gaucho Elbow Room Ginkgo Hoa Túc Hogs Breath Hungry Pig Ice Blue Jaspa's JJ's Brazillian BBQ Restaurant La Habana Last Call Le Pub L'usine May Restaurant & Bar Monsoon Number 5 O'Brien's Pacharan Park Hyatt Phatty's Pomodoro Red Lounge Refinery Spotted Cow Storm P Subway Universal Bar Vasco's

Vino Vinyl Bar Westcoast Wine Embassy Wrap & Roll Xu Zoom Café DISTRICT 2 Agnes Café Baan Thai BMV Coffee Boathouse Buddha Bar Café Evita Classic Fine Foods Feeling Tropic Gaya La Villa Le Bacoulos LuBu McSorley's Mekong Merchant Noah's Club Outcast Parkland Country Club Pendolasco An Phu Riverside Apartments Saigon Scooter Centre Saigon Yacht Marina Snap Café That's Cafe The Bike Shop The Deck The Fan Club The Loop Villa Song Saigon

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DISTRICT 3

PHU NHUAN

American Chiropractic Center Acoustic

I'm Yours Coffee Up Café Victoria Healthcare

If you are interested in your business receiving copies of Word Vietnam to distribute to your customers, please email trinh@wordvietnam.com (Ho Chi Minh City) or giang@wordvietnam.com (Hanoi). For a small fee, we also offer a home delivery service direct to your door. Simply email subscriptions@wordvietnam.com

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 27

to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

Tet It’s the Year of the Goat, and you’re all dressed up with nowhere to go. Well, that’s not exactly true. Here are a few options

Amanoi amanoi.com With Tet coming up, you could probably use a break — a real break. Amanoi is offering that, in its 31 pavilions and five villas cloistered in the hills of Nui Chua National Park, overlooking the sandy beaches of Vinh Hy Bay. Through next year, Vietnam residents can enjoy an experience found nowhere else in the country, starting at VND10.75 million++.

New World Saigon Hotel newworldhotels.com Why leave town when there’s food like this on the menu at New World this Tet? The Year of the Goat calls for a special celebration so New World encourages you to bring your family to Parkview to experience their bountiful buffet featuring enough lobster, crab and prawn to sink a fishing boat between Feb. 18 and Feb. 21.

Lunch (VND680,000 per person) and dinner (VND 980,000 per person) both include free flow coffee, tea and soft drink — as well as a ‘lucky money’ voucher for 30 percent off dining through March.

If staying home’s more your thing, Dynasty have a Tet Takeaway Feast

28 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

available from Feb. 10 to Feb. 28 in lamb (VND1,890,000 per leg) and chicken (VND988,000 per chicken) varieties. If your family isn’t impressed with that, you should immediately disown them and change all your numbers. It is a brave New World after all. Happy Tet, readers!

Novotel Nha Trang novotel-nhatrang.com The 18th floor rooftop of the Novotel is a good spot to watch the fireworks, have a drink and take some pictures. It’s a tame 10pm to 12.30am call time the night of Feb. 18, as they want you to get up for a buffet lunch the next day. The fireworks and buffet lunch are VND350,000++ each, and the fireworks fee comes with three drinks of house wine, beer or soft drink.

Pullman Danang pullman-danang.com Having trouble pronouncing ‘Tet’ properly?

What about ‘Sun, Sea and Spa’? If you can manage that, then the guys at Pullman Danang might just be your new best friends.

They have a Tet Holiday package going between Feb. 13 and Mar. 1 called the Family Fun Offer (VND5.8 million net) per room per night. Valid for a three-night stay in a Superior

Room it includes a daily set dinner for two per stay, a daily 90-minute spa treatment for two per stay and a credit voucher of VND1 million to use at any of the resort’s outlets during your time in paradise. When you consider the Tet Set Menu comes in at VND380,000 net and the BBQ Buffet on Wednesdays and Saturdays sits at VND550,000 nett, how do you say ‘free money’?

Sheraton Saigon sheratonsaigon.com Do you need much encouragement to enjoy a little food luxury this Tet? Café Saigon has a clutch of promotions to ensure you start the Year of the Goat in style. A Vietnamese buffet inclusive of free flowing house wine (VND1,050,000++) will be hosted on Saturdays, Feb. 7 through Feb. 28 — and during Tet week, from Feb. 19 to Feb. 25. Spoil yourself with classics like banh chung and pickle, braised pork and egg with young coconut juice, deep fried stuffed crab claws, wok-fried beef luc lac and deep-fried homemade spring rolls. And on Lunar New Year ’s Eve Feb. 18, you can enjoy the same for VND1.3 million++ per person, including free flow house wine, coffee and tea.

SAVE

The Date

01-06

MAR.

14

SPEECH THERAPY FOR ENGLISH SPEAKERS ON THE MOVE If getting the words out is a challenge for your children, help is at hand. Sue Cameron and Simone Dudley are experienced Speech Pathologist and Occupational Therapists conducting their tele-therapy businesses from Australia. Now they are taking it international.

They provide remote therapy from Australia, using Skype and Lync technology.

They are visiting the Ho Chi Minh City from Mar.

1 to Mar. 6, meeting with schools, families and health professionals to see how they can help. They offer both speech and occupational therapy screening assessments, and can discuss tele-practice as an option for families who need it.

If this sounds right for your brood on the move, they’d love to hear from you. Get in touch via telespeech.com.au, or email sue@ telespeech.com.au

MAR.

AIS IS ALL ABOUT CREATING CURIOSITY Australian International School is having an Open Day, and they want you to know that they won’t just teach your kids — they’ll also lead them to a brighter future.

Spread out over three campuses in Ho Chi Minh City, AIS is an accredited IB school that’s been around since well before we were here. On Saturday Mar. 14, they’ll open their doors for families who are

looking for a top international school for their child, or at least a free day out. Among other things, visitors will be able to meet the teachers and other parents (yay!), watch science in action, enjoy performances of Alice in Wonderland the Musical and attend a real Australian BBQ. What, no meat pies?

For more information, visit aisvietnam.com or call the school on (08) 3742 4040

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 29

just in

Ho Chi Minh City

SAN ART RELOCATES From the first of this month, San Art is reconfiguring its setup — from its original space on Me Linh, to the ground floor of the Laboratory Studio at 48/7 Phan Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh. The Reading Room will again function as the foyer, letting San Art pursue their main goal — connecting people with ideas.

San Art’s new space is at 48/7 Phan Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, HCMC. Go to san-art.org for more info

PERONI COMES TO VIETNAM ON DRAFT

ACACIA VERANDA DINING REMODELS If you’re a fan of skyline views in this city, you’re almost spoilt for choice — bars and restaurants need to work hard to stand out.

When you have celebrity ‘chef to the stars’ Mr. Jack Lee working for you, you’re already doing well — however, with five-star food you need a five-star look, so that’s exactly what Acacia Veranda Dining have just done.

They’ve remodelled to reflect the “rave reviews we have been receiving for the cuisine” according to marketing manager,

PENDOLASCO REOPENS After a short hiatus to get going on some well-needed refurbishment, the oldest (but now the newest) Italian restaurant in town has reopened its doors.

While the eatery is known for its mix of classic, regional Italian fare, with dishes such as the veal shank ossobuco (VND430,000) and a range of pastas and pizzas, there are also more unusual offerings such as the Valtellina pizza which comes with smoked beef (VND250,000). Add to this a cosy, welcoming environment, and a constantly changing specials menu, and Pendolasco might just be the place for you to get a fix of all things Italian.

Oh, and did we mention that they serve draft Peroni yet?

Pendolasco 1 is at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC

30 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Roni Chavez. “The current upgrade makes for a complete five-star experience, from kitchen, to plate, to table… and at four-star prices,” she adds.

Chef Lee agrees. “Attention to detail cannot be overstated. I’m really excited for our guests to see the remodel, it complements the food perfectly.”

For more info, go to facebook.com/ AcaciaVeranda. Acacia is at 149-151 Nguyen Du, Q1, HCMC

The Italian premium lager, Peroni, is now available at three locations in Ho Chi Minh City on draft.

Only the second imported European lager to be sold on tap in Vietnam — the first was Budvar, which is available in Hanoi — at present this fine brew is sold at Pendolasco (87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC), Pok Pok (39 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, HCMC) and Yo Yo (83 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, HCMC). A 330mm glass of what is one of the world’s favourite beers sells at between VND60,000 and VND70,000 a go.

Part of the draft beer revolution that is currently taking place in Vietnam — more international lagers and ales are due to come on draft in 2015 — expect a number of other venues to start selling Peroni.

The Month in Observatory With a recent move to District 4, The Observatory has been throwing off the chains of downtown respectability in an unprecedented way. All parties take place at the new late night hub of 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC, starting around 10pm

Fulbert

Friday 6th

Friday 13th

Friday 27th

Fantastic Man

John Morales is Back!

Mad Fyah w/Tippa-Irie

A global force of house, disco and all things body-moving, Fantastic Man is coming from Melbourne to shake Saigonese booties with his fantastic explosion of sound. Free before midnight, VND100,000 after.

After December’s blowout gig alongside Alton Miller, John Morales was so excited

by Saigon that he wanted to return as soon as possible. He got his wish, and our city has another chance to witness a legend of nightclub culture work his magic. Free before midnight, VND100,000 after.

The reggae and UK dancehall legend is returning to the city for the third time at the invitation of local crew Saigon Rockers, who will be hosting their first reggae event at The Observatory. Expect a full tour of reggae’s possibilities with this master of the mic. Starts at 10pm, VND100,000 entry.

Saturday 14th

Saturday 28th

EA&OC Loft Party

Fulbert

EA&OC residents Dan Lo, Nic Ford and Hibiya Line bring their eclectic, qualitycontrolled approach to music with a new monthly night — Loft Party, this month with guest Elia. Free before midnight, VND50,000 after.

Fulbert of Cliché Records is a veteran electronic music producer, DJ and collector who has been immersed in the creation and delivery of raw, deep-reaching house and techno since the early 1990s. Free before midnight, VND100,000 after.

Saturday 7th Mugic Night w/Kentaro, Ulysses, Dang & Mislav The Mugic crew responsible for bringing some of the most underground names to Singapore are hitting town to lay down their signature mix of great music, relaxed attitude and secret party weapons. Free before midnight, VND100,000 after.

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 31

just in

Ho Chi Minh City SAIGON SQUARE 3 With all the malls going up these days, it’s easy to forget about the little guys.

But Saigon Square, with a bazaar-like model halfway between a shopping mall and traditional market, has just opened a third market on Hai Ba Trung, of the calibre of the Nam Ky Khoi Nghia branch. In the face of the Vincom-isation of the Vietnamese retail experience, it’s good to know you can still get a work shirt for VND150,000 somewhere. If you can bargain, that is.

Saigon Square 3 is at 179-185 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, HCMC

ALBA SPA HOTEL OPENS IN HUE When you’re staying in the imperial capital of Vietnam, you need somewhere fit for an emperor. Enter Alba Spa Hotel, now open to rank and file minions like ourselves, but with no shortage of opportunities to get treated like nobility.

In addition to treatments designed in collaboration with renowned spa guru

Florence Jaffre (founder of the Thai spa brand Ytsara), the 58-room boutique property on Tran Quang Khai will offer a 16.5sqm Jacuzzi filled with natural mineral water sourced from nearby hot springs. So the hardest thing you have to do is get there — sounds pretty royal to us.

For more info, check out albavietnam.com

AIR 360 SKY BAR Chill and OMG, watch out — you’ve got a new neighbour on your flight level, and they’ve got a giant light-up balloon on their summit. Air 360 is so-named because it’s the only rooftop bar with a fully-panoramic outlook on the city.

While that might sound like a dubious

honour, they’ve also got a swimming pool, fish tanks built into some tables and cheaper prices than their rooftop competitors.

Check out Air 360 at Floor 21, Ben Thanh Tower, 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 — air360skybar.com

ECLECTIC ACCESSORIES FROM ATTAYA The seed for Attaya Collective was first planted in a small West African village circa 2010, where New York City-based artist Adina Weinland spent her summer. Her later travels in Indonesia, Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia and East Asia resulted in a mountainous collection of colourful textiles.

After partnering with Mia Nguyen in 2014 they decided to found Attaya Collective, an accessories line designed to “create quality, versatile and responsibly-made handcrafted products” with the textiles sourced throughout their travels.

Every product is made by hand in Ho Chi Minh City under the direction of Han Nguyen, their master leather worker. Each piece features a different leather, string colour and textile — hand-matched to best fit the design and colour of the textile. No two are alike.

You can find Attaya accessories at Mayhem Saigon, 136/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC. For more info, visit attayacollective.com

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ELYSIUM CAFÉ MACH HOUSE OPENS ON PASTEUR Food and fashion in the same venue is a trend we’re getting used to — luxury item concept stores that offer more than just food or fashion but also present a palette of style choices and accessories for life. It’s a high street idea and on Pasteur in District 1, Mach House is exactly that. They are now open and serving genuine French and

Vietnamese cuisine at affordable prices upstairs and selling a range of bespoke design clothes and accessories downstairs.

They’ve also got a pretty killer wine list. Their motto: ‘To unwind or work in a relaxing environment, enjoy yourself at Mach House.’

Mach House is at 75 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3827 3829

‘Elysium’ means paradise, although the 2013 movie of the same name might have given you some other ideas.

These lofty ideals are what this smart new café strives for over its two storeys, and it has the beans to back it up. Pulling their pour-over blends from the same supply as The Workshop

Café, they also have a decent breakfast menu featuring the likes of a delicious VND65,000 eggs benedict on English muffin. Upstairs the space gets cosier, with couches, a cleverlystocked bookshelf and a killer balcony.

Elysium Café is at 22 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, HCMC — facebook.com/ elysiumcafevn

EDEN COFFEE HOUSE Last month introduced a new player onto the District 7 goodcoffee scene — Eden Coffee House. And they’re stacking the deck, with Illy beans and a promise that they won’t screw up your latté. They also believe in brunch, offering Bloody Marys alongside beef and

salsa verde salads and mango, passion fruit and honeyed ricotta sweet crepes. To complete the relaxation trifecta, try one of their signature espresso martinis.

Eden Coffee House is at R3-85 Khu Pho, Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC — facebook.com/edenq7

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 33

overscene ho chi minh

standpoint theories Photos by Francis Xavier Emily Navarra’s spectacular featured Le Cat Trong Ly, Space Panther and more live visuals than you could shake a stick at

34 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

king of the bay

Photos supplied by Ahi Vietnam In Mui Ne the stand-up paddle boards were out, making the most of the light ocean breeze

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

mac demarco

Photos by Francis Xavier The internet’s favourite slacker made a live appearance at Cargo, playing 10-15 minutes of Metallica’s Enter Sandman somewhere in there

van der beeks v. orangutan

Photos by Francis Xavier Two of Saigon’s most danceable bands staged a throwdown at Cube, and the winner was all of us

bonjour

Photos by Owen Salisbury The French community came out for a celebration of the French way of life at 23/9 Park

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 35

to do list

03

hanoi

TUESDAY

03,10,17,21

FEB.

CAM & MIKE

ASIAN YOUTH JAZZ ORCHESTRA Sponsored by The Japan Foundation, six Japanese musicians are holding a jazz concert on Tuesday Feb. 3 at The Youth Theatre.

With the intention of creating the Asian Youth Jazz Orchestra, which will start operating from Autumn 2015, the six musicians — piano, saxophone, 2 trombones, electric bass and drums — will be playing the type of jazz that they want to recreate with young musicians from ASEAN. Their set will not only include a selection of wellknown tunes, but their own original works.

From the ensuing auditions, 16 ASEAN musicians will be selected. After spending time on a training camp in Japan this summer, they will travel and perform in both Japan and around ASEAN. The concert kicks off at 8pm on Feb. 3 at the Youth Theatre, 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Tickets are available from the Japan Foundation, 27 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi from 2pm on Tuesday Jan. 27

04

WEDNESDAY

WRITERS IMMERSION AND CULTURAL EXCHANGE From 6.30pm on Feb. 4, hear this group of distinguished writers from Australia, Vietnam and the Philippines read from their critically acclaimed work that combines personal and poetic observations of the world around us.

The event is part of the WrICE (Writers Immersion and Cultural Exchange) programme, connecting writers from around the Asia-Pacific and will take place at Manzi Art Space (14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi).

Due to limited seating, spots must be organised through alison.barker@rmit. edu.au before Feb 2. Entrance is free

36 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Throughout February Rockstore continues its regular weekly events — Think 124 on Wednesdays, Old Boys Blues Band on Thursdays and the Flashback Rock Band on Sunday. But the pick is the Tuesday night acoustic set with Australian duo Cam and Mike.

Playing pop, rock, blues and soul from the 1960s all the way through to the modern day, the Australian duo have one of those track records that can only be bought with time. Cam has been playing guitar for more than 20 years and is an established singer/songwriter, while Mike has been a percussionist and vocalist for more years than he cares to admit.

Rockstore is at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Entrance is free

06-08

07

FEB.

SATURDAY

TET MARKET AT INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM In honour of the Lunar New Year, the International School of Vietnam will be hosting its own Tet Market at its main campus on Feb. 7, from 11am to 3pm.

The market will feature stalls stocking traditional Tet treats, decorations and seasonal plants to help you ring in the Year of the Goat. Activities will include traditional games such as dragon dancing, calligraphy handwriting and a cooking class on how to prepare the perfect New Year’s Eve feast.

The International School of Vietnam is at 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Hoang Mai, Hanoi

TET MARKET AT THE METROPOLE The tradition continues with the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi once again holding its annual Tet bazaar. The market will feature traditional bamboo stalls selling food, fresh produce, handicrafts and colourful paper paintings from nearby Dong Ho village.

Activities such as a banh chung making contest, a spring roll contest and a traditional drawing competition will also take place, with visitors able to recharge with a warm bowl of pho while having their portrait painted by a Vietnamese artist.

The Metropole Tet market will be run from Feb. 6 to Feb. 8 from 4pm to 8pm each day. The Sofitel Metropole is at 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

07

SATURDAY

BIS TET FAIR To kick off the festive period with an abundance of colour and excitement, the British International School (BIS) will be holding a Tet Fair on Saturday Feb. 7.

With the aim of educating students and all-comers about Vietnamese traditional values, culture and customs, the fair will include handicraft workshops, games, food stalls and costumes.

The event will be held on school campus where students,

families and friends can have an enjoyable and fun time together.

Running from 10am to 2pm, the fair is an opportunity to see some of the classical activities of a bygone era, to observe the skills of to he or the elegant curves of Vietnamese calligraphy as well as the comic charm of water puppetry.

BIS is at Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Hanoi. For more information click on bishanoi.com

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EXPERIMENTAL MUSIC CONCERT On Saturday Feb. 7, Goethe Institut will be holding a concert with German musician Burkhard Beins and members of the Hanoi-based experimental music collective, DomDom. Described by The Wire as “one of the most distinctive percussionists in European free music,” Berlin-based Burkhard Beins is a composer/performer known for his definitive use of percussion in combination with selected sound objects. Also working with live electronics and

analogue synthesizers, he gives lectures and workshops and has published several articles on music theory. He will be running workshops in cooperation with DomDom from Feb. 2 to Feb. 6.

Expect this to be one of the more unusual musical experiences you’ll encounter in the capital.

Goethe Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi.

The show starts at 8pm. For more information and to find out about ticketing, click on goethe.de/vietnam

1911 Angelina's Cheeky Quarter Ciao Café El Gaucho Fat Cat Golden Silk Hair of the dog Hanoi Backpackers Hotel Hanoi Social Club Hilton Ha Noi Opera Hotel de l'Opera Ha Noi Japan Foundation Le Pub L'Espace Litte Ha Noi Metropole Hotel PuKu Rockstore Tamarind The KaFe

HO TAY 88 Lounge ACET Bookworm Too Daluva Don’s Tay Ho El Gaucho Joma KOTO Kub Cafe Language Link Peace Dental Clinic RMIT S. Honore Singapore International School Sofitel Plaza Tay Tap The Cart The Hanoi Bicycle Collective The Republic UNIS Vietclimb Gym

Vip Bikes West Coast Work Room Four Zenith Yoga HAI BA TRUNG Apollo Cama ATK Pots ‘n Pans BA DINH Bookworm Family Medical Practice Foodshop 45 Hanoi Cooking Centre Manzi Art Space CAU GIAY Concordia International School Crowne Plaza JW Marriott

If you are interested in your business receiving copies of Word Vietnam to distribute to your customers, please email trinh@wordvietnam.com (Ho Chi Minh City) or giang@wordvietnam.com (Hanoi). For a small fee, we also offer a home delivery service direct to your door. Simply email subscriptions@wordvietnam.com

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 37

to do list

07

hanoi

FROM FEB.

14&28

FEB.

THE LIFE OF TET Running from Feb. 7 until Mar. 7, Art Vietnam Gallery will ring in the Lunar New Year with a playful exhibition featuring eclectic Hanoian artists, Nguyen Quang Thang and Lolo Zazar.

A member of the avantgarde Gang of Five group, Thang will showcase a traditional perspective on the Tet holiday, with a hoang phi (horizontal frieze) and two cau doi (columns of parallel sentences) depicting the 12 zodiac signs in the centuries-old Nom language.

In contrast, Lolo Zazar, an artist and animation film maker from France, will present a modern depiction of the zodiac with a playful photo montage assembled into 3D creatures.

Art Vietnam is at 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

10&11

HOLY CHIC! Pharaoh’s Upper in the Lotte Center in collaboration with Uber and Nature Republic Cosmetics will be running a new ladies’ night on Saturday Feb. 14 and two weeks later on Feb. 28.

Ladies will drink free from 10pm to midnight from a select cocktail menu (3 choices available) while Uber will sponsor transport home at the end of the evening for all new

users to a maximum value of VND200,000.

To make the affair even more attractive, Nature Republic Cosmetics will hand out gifts, samples and vouchers for all women throughout the evening, while an Evian Spa voucher will be awarded for the best female dancer. Time to get shakin’ that booty!

Pharaoh’s Upper is on Floor 63 & 64 of the Lotte Center, Dao Tan, Cong Vi, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

26

THURSDAY

FEB.

15 THE WINTER FOR LY Acclaimed singer-songwriter, Le Cat Trong Ly, will be performing her winter songs at Manzi on Feb. 10 and Feb. 11, with accompaniment by celloist Thanh Tu and a string quartet.

The leading figure of contemporary folk music in Vietnam, Ly mixes western influences with more traditional Vietnamese sounds. With her distinctive music and lyrics, the Danang-born musician is the modern-day incarnation of Trinh Cong Son, the composer often referred to as the Bob Dylan of Vietnam.

To reserve a seat, call Manzi’s hotline before Feb. 5 on 0947 935042 or email manzihanoi@gmail. com. Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

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SUNDAY

TET CELEBRATIONS AT BOOKWORM Bookworm and the Hanoi Cooking Centre will host an afternoon of traditional music, calligraphy and lunar horoscope painting in honour of the Tet holiday on Sunday Feb. 15.

Tasty treats will also be hand, with banh chung — traditional Tet cake — classes taught by a village expert, free Tet mulled wine, traditional rice wine and cookies.

Free to he sculptures and animal balloons will also be on hand, as well as larger than life discounts on all Bookworm books.

Bookworm and HCC are at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

THISQUIETARMY CAMA ATK will host Moon Gramophone’s night of experimental music, thisquietarmy, on Thursday Feb. 26.

Featuring the experimental guitar-based project of Montreal-based Eric Quach, the show will revolve around improvised drone music fused with the textural and structural elements of post-punk, shoegaze, krautrock, post-rock, black metal and doom metal.

Described as dark, melodic, expansive and engaging, Quach’s performances are mostly presented as a real-time score to hypnotic ethereal visuals, which he creates himself for each performance.

CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA

27

FRIDAY

THROUGH THE WINDOW L’Espace will be hosting the work of artist Duong Thuy Duong from Friday Feb. 27 through to Mar. 21.

Entitled Through the Window, Duong describes her work as what she sees through her window after the kids go to school.

“I stay at home alone with a cup of hot coffee in hand, listening to Rachmaninoff and looking out the window. It is a large window overlooking lush vegetation, the bright sun of summer, the leaves fall in autumn, the gray and gloomy sky winter days and on the fragile and icy space the arrival of spring.

“I like to stay and think like this. Nothing important, just the

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reflections of an ordinary person, an ordinary woman, an ordinary mother.

“The coffee is cold, the music has stopped, four seasons pass, and ... I paint...”

The opening will be held at 6pm on the night of Feb. 27.

L’Espace is at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

ALL MONTH

MY PLEASURE Cuci Fine Art will be hosting the exhibition, My Pleasure, all throughout February.

Featuring the works of five artists — Quach Bac, Ha Manh Chien, Le Bao Ngoc, Nguyen Thi Kim Nga, and Pham Ngoc Ha Ninh — all of whom work in a range of mediums, the purpose of the showcase is to

convey a message of “true and false values in individual and community lives”.

This is the first collaboration between Cuci Fine Art and the five artists. All share common concerns about a range of issues in contemporary society.

Cuci Fine Art is located at 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Once reserved exclusively for royalty, tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences.

Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy.

MANZI ART CALL Young Vietnamese artists, Manzi wants you!

One of Hanoi’s premiere art spaces is seeking proposals for solo or group exhibitions, from now through Mar. 31. There aren’t a ton of limits — don’t propose previously exhibited work, don’t be over 40, don’t be boring — which you should already know.

As a driver of independent art here, Manzi encourages diversity, creativity and co-creation in arts and culture.

Successful applicants will get a chance to work with Manzi’s team to further develop and realise their proposals before their exhibitions, which will take

THE FRASER COLLECTION

place this year at Manzi.

Manzi will also provide successful applicants with an exhibition venue, all PR involved and some production money.

For more info or to submit, contact manzihanoi@gmail.com, or just stop by 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)

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just in

hanoi

CREPES ON THE GO Street food — or at least street food that is anything from hot dogs to burritos to crepes — is hugely popular in the West. Now the well-known French crepe outlet, Crepe House, has brought this concept to Hanoi.

With a crepe cart stationed outside Indochina Plaza (241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi) from mid-January, hungry diners have been able to buy these French-style pancakes on the move.

KAFE BOX From one to two and now to three, the KAfe empire increases its size again this month with the opening of KAfe Box, a new takeawaystyle outlet on the fifth floor of Vincom Tower (191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi).

Open daily from 9am to 10pm, the concept of the KAfe Box is street food and snacks in modern takeaway packaging.

Offering a wide range of food “inspired from global cuisines and modern urban flavours”, on the menu are “The Street Box” classics like the mini banh bao and freshly handmade sandwiches, or “Oven To Box” — warm oven-baked favourites like the vegetable lasagna and baked pasta with chunky beef Bolognese sauce.

Photos by Julie Vola

O’LEARYS Hanoi’s newest and largest sports bar, O’Learys, threw open its doors last month, marking the occasion with a lavish grand opening.

Located just two blocks down from Hoan Kiem Lake on the bustling thoroughfare of Ba Trieu, the Boston-inspired chain offers comfy booths within view of carefully positioned flat-screen TVs that allow you to watch multiple sportscasts on different screens, simultaneously. The décor, heavily inspired by the Boston peoples’ love of sports, is also guaranteed to tug at the heartstrings of hardcore sports fans, with the Boston Red Sox logo adorning the

40 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

green walls in every room.

A long list of drinks, including an impressive range of liqueurs, aperitifs and long drinks can be sourced at bars on each level, alongside a hearty selection of American bar snacks, including buffalo wings with blue cheese sauce (VND155,000) and Jamaican jerk wings (VND155,000).

With a vibrant atmosphere and a comprehensive coverage of international sports, O’Learys is sure to be a hit with locals and expats alike.

O’Learys is at 38 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at olearys.vn

A NEW DESTINATION IN HOI AN For those of you with a penchant for Hoi An — and in Hanoi there are lots of us who take frequent trips down south to this UNESCOprotected town — the recently opened Alma Courtyard offers not just five-star resort facilities, but all-inclusive spa treatment as part of the deal.

Offering up a range of rooms from the standard en-suites with balconies to the twofloor duplex units designed as townhousestyle rooms, the room rates include a daily 90-minute spa journey. Broken up into a steam or sauna, a 50-minute massage treatment, and gentle tai chi movement session, or quiet relaxation in the silent sanctuary, 40 treatment rooms are on hand to look after the guests. The therapists are all trained in-house and only use locally produced spa products.

Alma Courtyard is at 326 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoi An, Quang Nam. For reservations email reservation@almacourtyardhoian.com or click on almacourtyardhoian.com

SOMERSET COMES TO HAI PHONG The well-known Somerset serviced apartments, which are managed by Ascott, have opened their first residence in Hai Phong.

The 132-unit Somerset Central TD Hai Phong City is located on a prime urban area in the city’s new Central Business District and becomes the first international branded serviced residence in Hai Phong.

With over 2,000 apartment units in 13 properties across four cities in the country — Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Hai Phong and Danang — Ascott is the largest serviced residence owner-operator in Vietnam.

Somerset Hai Phong is at Tower A, TD Plaza, Lot 20A, Le Hong Phong, Ngo Quyen, Hai Phong. For more information call (031) 367 0888 or click on somerset.com

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 41

overscene hanoi

Sunday Jazz at Tadioto

Photos byJulie Vola One of Hanoi’s classiest bars added to its seamless chic with a Sunday jazz session.

So popular was the show that even the odd celebrity or two turned up

Jazz and Thank You Party

Photos provided by Sofitel Metropole Hanoi’s most classic hotel, the Metropole, put on a thank you party for its supporters, with jazz provided

by New York-based resident singer, Kristen Evelyn Rossi

42 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

The Tiny Music Club

Photos by Julie Vola Tuesday nights at Hanoi Social Club are gaining quite a following, thanks to the regular acoustic music played out on its top-floor terrace

clap! festival

Photos provided by L’Espace L’Espace hosted a unique VietnameseFrench collaborative film festival bringing together almost every film medium there is

Insider

THE CARTOONIST // THE IDIOT'S GUIDE TO TET // BEER // MAKING THE METRO A SUCCESS // THE FUTURE OF DOWNTOWN SAIGON // THE BUSINESSMEN OF BEER // THE ART OF AO DAI // BURGER WARS // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // STREET SNACKER HCMC // FASHION // CRUISING // A DAY IN PENANG // IN SEARCH OF THE SUPER CAVE PHOTO BY GLEN RILEY 44 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 45

insider

46 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

MANY FACES

NATIONAL

The Cartoonist A cartoonist and a teacher, But Chi’s raison d’etre is to use the creation and appreciation of art as a way to open up the mind. Words by Hoa Le. Images provided by the artist

W

hen But Chi was a child, he dreamt of a school where the pupils were free to do anything they liked. It was a school where kids like him could hardly wait for the next day to dawn so that they could go to study.

Just like the school that Mr. Kobayashi built inside the five abandoned old-fashioned railway cars — Tomoe Gakuen school in his favourite Japanese children book, Tottochan — The Little Girl at the Window.

Although that school didn’t exist in his childhood, its memory has followed But Chi throughout his life, giving him inspiration throughout his career. In November last year, the 30-year-old cartoonist opened an art school with a unique concept, a concept aimed at encouraging students to learn and practise drawing and other forms of creativity. He named it Toa Tau or The Railway Carriage in Vietnamese. He also designed and painted the classrooms with lively pictures and colourful windows, just as what he had imagined the Tomoe Gakuen school to have.

But instead of an elementary school like in the story, But Chi’s school teaches many forms of art to students — both adults and children, from drawing to photography, dancing to playing musical instruments.

The most popular course at Toa Tau, and also the one that But Chi started off with, is the Drawing for Storytellers class. There the students not only learn to improve their drawing skills, but more importantly, they are encouraged to express themselves, to tell stories through their own drawings. It’s not about getting a good grade.

“When you tell people to draw, the first reaction of many people is ‘Oh, I can’t. I don’t have any talent.’” says Chi. “But we believe that everyone can and they have a lot of potential inside themselves to do so. It’s just they were somehow hindered as they grew up. We want to encourage people to get over that fear and enjoy drawing.”

Hue, Hanoi, Saigon and Beyond But Chi, which means ‘pencil‘ in Vietnamese, is Do Huu Chi’s pen name on his comics and book illustrations. Born in Hue in 1984, although neither of his parents worked in

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 47

the art industry, Chi loved drawing from a young age. And like many children, he started off by imitating and redrawing his favourite cartoon characters.

In the 1980s and early 1990s, as Vietnam moved into the early stages of Doi Moi, there were not many comic options for But Chi and other children, except for a few Japanese manga series such as Doreamon, Dragon balls and Black Jack.

When Chi was 18, he moved to Hanoi to study architecture. He soon realised his love and passion was for drawing, and in particular cartoons. He began working parttime as an illustrator for several well-known children‘s and teenagers‘ magazines, and for a period wanted to quit his studies to follow this passion. But he couldn’t.

“I faced very strong opposition from my parents,” he recalls. “And in Vietnam at that time, being a cartoonist couldn’t bring a stable income or a career.”

He completed his studies.

Chasing the Dream Chi’s love for comics never faded, and after six years in Hanoi finishing his degree, he moved to Saigon and started working fulltime for Nha Nam publishing house as an art manager-cum-illustrator.

“I always look for a change and try to experience new things,” he says. “To me, it’s not [important] what your job is, but what you’re interested in doing.”

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In 2011, he received a Fullbright scholarship to study a Master’s degree in Georgia in the US, majoring in comics and art. The opportunity brought him access to a rich world of comics and cartoons.

Coming back to Vietnam in 2013, Chi opened his first Drawing for Storytellers class and quickly got positive feedback. He then went a step further, opening Toa Tau. “It was a very simple [decision],” he says.

“I didn’t have that kind of creative school when I grew up. Now I wanted to start one and let others to have such opportunities.”

Not Just About Drawing But Chi is full of energy. In the classroom, he jumps up and down on his chair, and often runs back and forth when explaining things to his students. But in drawing, But Chi is different.

He loves metaphors and his comics often send out messages that are inspired by philosophical or literary ideas, all combined with his observations on daily life. His comics are often without speech bubbles and quite short, from only eight to 20 pages. He also loves getting his audience to listen to a pre-chosen piece of music while reading his comics.

In the comic Sisyphus, inspired by the same-titled Greek story, The Myth of Sisyphus, But Chi creates a male character who gets on his motorbike to go to work every day, from morning to night. His routine is repeated every day, but he has no idea of what he is doing or who he is working for. The story is

the same as that of King Sisyphus, who as punishment for his trickery was made to roll a boulder to the top of a hill. But the boulder would always fall down the hill, making him perform the action again and again.

In a story called Ngo (translated as Myself or Illuminating), he creates a young art student — it could be But Chi, himself, or a friend and colleague.

The art student is forced to come to school every day, but has no interest in the boring classes. He only comes alive when he gets out of the classroom and goes to a place where he can draw whatever he likes.

Very often But Chi leaves his stories with an open ending, for the audiences to interpret themselves.

Art is Freedom For But Chi, comics are art. They tell a story through a chain of images. It’s a whole world, big enough to embrace almost any thought or idea. It goes beyond entertainment.

But for his students at Toa Tau, But Chi wants them to discover art or drawing in its most simple form. It is a tool with which people can tell their stories and express their emotion.

“Art is meant to free people from worries, to give people a balance,” he says. “We’re trying to release the fear in people, and for many, it starts from the fear to draw.”

Toa Tau is at 632 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Ho Chi Minh City. To view some of But Chi’s comics, visit behance.net/chimagine

“We believe that everyone can [draw] and they have a lot of potential inside themselves to do so. It’s just they were somehow hindered as they grew up. We want to encourage people to get over that fear and enjoy drawing”

(continued at behance.net/chimagine)

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 49

insider

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INSIDER SPECIAL

NATIONAL

The Idiot’s Guide to Tet With the biggest festival of the Vietnamese year just around the corner, Vu Ha Kim Vy gives some tips on a lucky New Year.

Photos by Francis Xavier YOUR TET OPTIONS Food In the past, most markets and malls closed for nearly a week during Tet, and families used to mob them beforehand to buy food for the festive week ahead. For some reason, the scene has gradually shifted. One reason might be the profits during Tet — prices are always than at other times during the year — or maybe people simply want to work and not gain too much holiday weight. Now, most of these shopping centres close for just one or two days (normally the first and second day of Tet, which fall on Feb. 19 and Feb. 20 this year).

In the process of writing this article, most of the places I called didn’t have their final Tet schedules.

“Maybe just like last year!” is the reply I got most often.

As far as restaurants, their schedules mostly depend on their owner’s vacation plans. Check in advance.

Entertainment One of the biggest questions expats have is what to do for fun during Tet. One sure-fire option is to head to the backpackers’ area in Saigon or the Old Quarter in Hanoi — restaurants and bars will be open as if there was no such thing as Tet. Having a few drinks or joining a darts game with friends is one of the best ways to kill time over Tet. As Tet is traditionally a time to watch Vietnamese comedy films,

most cinema complexes will be open through Tet. Although these movies usually have English subtitles, there will also be Hollywood movies playing. The list includes The Wedding Ringer (playing Jan. 30 to Feb. 19), Jupiter Ascending (Feb. 6 to Feb. 19), The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge Out of Water (Feb. 6 to Feb. 19), Kingsman: The Secret Service (Feb. 13 to Feb. 26) and Fifty Shades of Grey (Feb. 13 to Feb. 26).

Amusement parks are another good option. Most of their doors will open through Tet... just beware of the crowds during the third ‘hang-out’ day, Feb. 21.

Keeping Fit For those who put keeping fit at the top of their lists, 10 days without exercise might seem unbearable. But Tet is also a rare opportunity for the types of outdoor exercise Vietnam’s busy city streets don’t normally encourage. If you like running or cycling outdoors, tie up those laces — few sidewalk vendors will block your progress.

Yet, if the idea of lifting weights and treadmill workouts still lingers in your mind, swimming pools and gyms in the five-star hotels are still open, and will welcome you — though their fees are always higher than at normal city gyms.

HOW TO AVOID THE CROWDS Just like Christmas is a time for going home and reuniting with family in the west, Tet is the time for

Vietnamese people to gather. And this makes for some crowded roads, and unexpected situations.

Take the case of Ho Chi Minh City. 30 percent of its official population of eight million people were born elsewhere, and most go to their hometown for Tet. In Hanoi, an even larger number of the city’s residents come from outside the capital.

This means a Tet exodus to the countryside back to the official ‘family home’. And for those who remain in town, they often stay in their homes — just relaxing, or because of Tet taboos (they don’t want to catch a cold, or get any kind of bad luck, as it reflects badly on the year ahead). Over Tet, both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City turn into ghost towns — don’t worry, not literally!

Travelling in-country isn’t a great option for the claustrophobic. For Tet travellers, the lack of buses, trains and planes can be a big — and expensive — problem. Some book their tickets months before, or end up waiting at the station to get a last-minute fare at a high price.

But travelling to a foreign country is a great option. For the last couple Tets, my uncle’s family have spent their holiday in countries in Southeast Asia that don’t celebrate the Lunar New Year. Only six countries — China, Mongolia, the Republic of Korea, North Korea, Singapore and Vietnam — are preparing for these special days.

TET DISHES The first Tet meal is usually abundant with dishes combining yin and yang — the complementary forces of light and darkness in everything — aiming to bring luck, prosperity and good health to the family in the next year. The following are the most common dishes:

Banh Chung A square, leaf-wrapped rice cake, it’s made from glutinous rice, mung beans, pork and other ingredients. Its origin is found in the legend of Lang Lieu, a son of the last king of the Sixth Hung Dynasty. He became his father’s successor thanks to his creations of banh chung and banh day, symbolising earth and sky.

Considered an essential element of the Tet family altar, the making and eating of banh chung during this time is a widely-observed tradition. It’s especially prevalent in northern Vietnam.

Banh Tet A savoury and sweet cake made with glutinous rice, rolled in a banana leaf into a thick, cylindrical shape, filled with mung bean and/or pork, then boiled. After cooking, the banana leaf is removed, and the cake is sliced into wheel-shaped servings. It demonstrates the importance of rice in Vietnamese culture as well as its historical value. It originated in southern Vietnam.

Banh To Originally from Quang Nam — think Hoi An — it is made from glutinous rice and sugar, wrapped in a banana leaf, then steamed. The word to (‘origin’ or ‘root’) honours one’s ancestors.

Thit Kho Trung A southern dish made from sautéed pork and eggs.

Back in the days when everything closed for Tet, it was one of the best ways to store cooked food.

Now it is made in smaller portions, and served at one or two meals.

Thit Dong To make thit dong, mix sautéed pork or chicken, the meat’s skin, mushrooms and other ingredients, then cool it. This jelly dish started in the north as a way to store food for Tet, but now it’s popular in many regions. While people from the south usually use fridges to cool the mixture, people from the north just lean on the cold winter temperatures.

Tom Kho Cu Kieu A simple and quick dish containing dried shrimps and pickled cu kieu — a member of the shallots family. It is one of the Tet favourites of Vietnamese drunkards.

Cha / Gio Cha (Southern Vietnam) or gio (Northern Vietnam) are popular forms of processed meat, sometimes translated as Vietnamese sausage or meat roll.

There are many variations including cha bo or gio bo (‘beef roll’), cha lua or gio lua (‘pork roll’) or cha ca (‘fish roll’). They are often served alongside beer.

Thit Dong

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THE FIVE FRUITS The five fruit tray is usually displayed on the family altar or living room table during Tet. Through their colours and names, they express the family’s wishes.

Different regions have different arrangements. In the north, they include chuoi (banana), buoi (grapefruit), dao (peach), hong (persimmon) and quyt (mandarin) — although sometimes ot (chilli), quat (kumquat) or le (pear) are substituted.

Northerners don’t tend to care that much, as long as the fruits have nice, bright colours.

Meanwhile, the trays in the south must have certain fruits, including mang cau (soursop), dua (coconut), du du (papaya), xoai (mango) and sung (fig) — forming the sentence “Cau sung (tuc) vua du xai” — a wish for prosperity. Sometimes, a pair of thom or dua (pineapples) will be added. Southerners try to avoid fruits which have names that remind them of bad things, like chuoi, which has a similar pronunciation to chui (failure); cam (orange), understood as suffering; or luu (pomegranate), which calls to mind a grenade. Fruits with bitter and pungent tastes are also out.

With the idea that the tray is expressing the owner’s wishes through fruit names, younger southerners have jokingly created some alternative versions. One of the most popular ones is “Cau xai mut chi” — a wish to have an endless source of money, based on soursop, mango, mut (plastic foam) and chi (thread). Another jokey version is “Cau vu vua du xai” — a wish to have a big enough pair of breasts.

While there is no proof the owner will get what they wish for, for a generation the mischievous young people of the south have wanted to see them try.

Dua

Sung

Xoai

Du Du

Mang Cau

TET TABOOS There are many bad luck taboos surrounding Tet, and people still take them seriously. Here are seven things to avoid doing on the first day of the Lunar New Year, falling on Feb. 19 this year.

Don’t let abandoned cats into the house. The sound of a cat’s meow in

Vietnamese is meo meo — which has the same sound as ngheo ngheo (‘poor’). It’s believed that if you let a stray cat into your house on the first day of Tet, your family will be poor through the year.

Avoid borrowing money. It is said: “If you start the year with someone else’s money, all year you’ll need loans; if you start the year lending money, all year you will suffer losses.”

Avoid breaking furniture and other household items. All year round broken

furniture is considered unlucky. However, in today’s society, when children accidentally break furniture it will not matter as long as an elder quickly says: “A New Year has come,

a New Year comes (for the broken object); no mishap in every New Year.” That changes the bad luck to good luck.

Do not sweep or take out garbage.

Don’t sweep the house or take out the garbage on New Year’s Day — you might accidentally sweep or dump out all the good luck from the house.

Don’t ask others to reach into your pocket. During the New Year, don’t ask people to take things from your pocket — otherwise, all year people will be reaching into your pocket.

Don’t collect debts. During Tet, it is

considered bad luck to collect debts. And don’t allow others to collect debts from you either!

Avoid Doing Laundry. There is a water god, and the water god’s birthday is two days after Tet begins. Give him a break during Tet.

Your First Guest Some families, especially when they have a business at home, specify the first person to enter their house on the first day. This person’s zodiac animal works with the animal sign of the forthcoming year. People believe some signs will bring wealth and prosperity to the family and business, while some will give bad luck.

Because 2015 is the Year of the Goat, people who were born in 1953, 1954, 1955, 1962, 1963, 1966, 1967, 1970, 1975 and 1983 are believed to be luck givers if they’re the first people to enter your house on the first day of Tet.

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TET GREETINGS As a part of the tradition, Tet is often accompanied by greetings, referred to as ‘chuc tet’ in Vietnamese — usually auspicious words, phrases or sayings.

These phrases are printed in gold letters on the red lucky money envelopes, another way of expressing New Year’s wishes.

The sayings may be used when visiting relatives and other families, or before children receive their red envelopes.

Children and their parents can also pray in pagodas or churches, in hopes of getting blessings for the year to come.

Traditional Greetings

Chúc Mừng Năm Mới — Happy New Year Vạn Sự Như Ý — May all your wishes be fulfilled Sức Khỏe Dồi Dào — May you have plenty of health Làm Ăn Tấn Tới — May your business prosper Tiền Vô Như Nước — May money flow in like water Sống Lâu Trăm Tuổi — May you live to 100 years Chúc Gia Đình Hạnh Phúc và Nhiều May Mắn — May your family have happiness and good luck

Non-Traditional Greetings

Tôi chúc bạn bận bịu trong công việc, vui vẻ trong cuộc sống, may mắn trong đánh bạc, điên cuồng trong tình yêu, tiền đầy túi, khỏe trên giường, không bao giờ biết buồn, luôn cười hí hí... mua vũ khí, cướp ngân hàng, bắt chuyến bay, tới bên tôi và... cho tôi tiền — I wish you to be busy in work, happy in life, lucky in gambling, crazy and mad in love, strong in bed, have money in your pocket, never be sad, always have fun… buy a gun, rob the bank, take a plane, fly to me and… give me money Một năm đong đầy hạnh phúc, 12 tháng dài vui vẻ, 52 tuần an vui, 365 ngày thành công, 8,760 giờ sức khỏe, 52,600 phút may mắn, 3,153,600 giây thú vị — May you have one year of happiness, 12 months of fun, 52 weeks of peace, 365 days of success, 8,760 hours of good health, 52,600 minutes of luck and 3,153,600 seconds of joy Khoẻ hơn Lý Đức, mạnh hơn George W. Bush, giàu hơn Bill Gates, quyến rũ hơn Don Juan, bí mật hơn Bin Laden và may mắn hơn Xuân tóc đỏ — May you be healthier than Ly Duc, stronger than George W. Bush, richer than Bill Gates, more seductive than Don Juan, more mysterious than Bin Laden and luckier than Red Hair Xuan

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Understanding Lucky Money Defined in the Vietnamese dictionary, li xi (lucky money) is money given to children to celebrate the year to come. This money is placed in red envelopes and mostly given during the first three days of Tet, although some families give it out on the last day. It is seen as a wish for the recipients to have a year filled with luck and prosperity.

Chinese-Vietnamese families still maintain a tradition in which younger generations give li xi to their parents or grandparents. In other families, anyone who is over 18 and has a job won’t accept money from their elders. It all comes down to the family’s tradition.

In my family, my parents give li xi to every family member, no matter how well off they are. We give li xi to our friends’ children when they visit during Tet, and vice versa. The significance is not in how much we give, but in how much we care. It’s a wish for great health and success in study in the next year.

There is no limit to the amount of li xi — it can range from VND10,000 to more than VND500,000, depending on how close you are to the family.

It’s influenced by your financial ability, as well as the scale of your business. If you are in business with the recipients’ parents, the li xi you give should be quite generous.

Some prefer to give (and receive) US$2 notes. Many Vietnamese save the note, as they believe that the US$2 notes are more rare than other notes. When one receives a US$2 note with a nice serial number, it’s taken as very lucky.

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cover story

How Beer Saved Civilisation

Y

ou might remember catchy headlines like this making their way around the blogosphere a few years back. Premised on evidence that beer was created before bread, it suggested that early man needed a psychoactive curveball to get away from that survival instinct. It led to the unproductive things we all love, like talking late into the night, laughing for no good

reason, getting away from group-think — all the things we still look to beer for today.

And as beer in Vietnam has exploded in popularity — consumption has increased nearly 300 percent countrywide in the past 10 years — what’s available has become increasingly complex and varied. But the basic things that beer gives us have been here all along.

Over the next 20-or-so pages we look

at Vietnam’s beer scene in advance of the biggest beer-drinking occasion of the calendar year — Tet. It’s an exciting time in Vietnam’s beer history, with more tastes being represented, and more seeming possible every day.

It’s time for beer to once again do what beer does best — break up the boredom, and give us all an outlet for toasting the finer things in life.

A Brief History of Bia Hoi Considered the ultimate people’s beer, bia hoi started off as a concession to the shortages created by war. Hoa Le talks to writer Nguyen Ngoc Tien, author of the book Going Across Hanoi, to trace the roots of Vietnam’s best-known tipple. Photos by Glen Riley

J

ust like motorbikes, skinny buildings and street food, bia hoi has become an essential part of life in Vietnam. Unpasteurised, unpreserved and served cold straight from the keg, it is consumed by everyone from Vietnam’s intelligentsia to its hardworking street vendors.

Yet bia hoi is often thought of as the drink of Hanoi. This is partly because the capital was the location of the first bia hoi joint, but also because of its popularity. In Hanoi, bia hoi joints are everywhere.

For writer and journalist Nguyen Ngoc Tien, the light yellow brew is a well-known acquaintance, one that he has known since his childhood in the 1960s — when his father brought him along to bia hoi joints to meet friends after work.

As a young adult, Tien would also hang out in bia hois with his writer friends. He

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has such a love for the cultural aspect of this brew that he’s devoted a section to beer in his book Going Across Hanoi.

From Rice Wine to Bia Hoi

The Vietnamese domestic beer culture stretches back to the 1890s, when the Hommel Brewery — now state-run Hanoi Beverage Company (Habeco) — was founded by the French. For a long time, the factory on Hoang Hoa Tham was the only place that sold beer in Hanoi — although, in the early years, it mostly served French officials.

Before beer came to Vietnam, people mostly drank rice wine. And when rice became expensive, they made wine from sweet potatoes. Indeed, for most of the 20th century, very few locals drank beer. People thought it was overly bitter. Some even claimed it had “an odor like urine”.

However, things started changing in early 1960s. The late historian, Dao Hung, once said of that period: “During the American war, to ensure that the rice production was enough for everyone, rice wine (ruou) was banned — food could no longer be ‘wasted’ on creating an alcoholic drink.”

The loss of ruou, however, led to the rise in popularity of beer. Humans, it seems, need to drink.

During that time, Habeco started producing high-quality beer and even exported their products to sell in South Vietnam. President Ho Chi Minh also urged the company to produce beer for export during his visit to the company.

That was also the time when bia hoi was born — primarily to serve at a lower price to common people.

“The reason for its appearance was rather simple,” says Tien. “During the war, there

[a toy model of the heads used in lion dances] for children to play with during the Full Moon Festival,” writes Tien. “But they had so many left unsold that they teamed up with the Nguyen Bieu beer joint to get rid of the extra lion’s heads by selling them to people who bought beer. Four glasses of beer came with a small lion’s head; six glasses of beer came with a big one… The beer joint became just like a toy manufacturer, packed with lion’s heads.”

At the time, there weren’t a great variety of beer snacks, but what was available was quite unique. Peanuts, papaya salad, fried tofu with shrimp paste, boiled snails — all were popular complements. Most of the snacks were sold by hawkers or street vendors nearby.

During this period, dog meat started to become popular in the bia hoi joints. Tien remembers that, during his student life, he often rode buses with dog meat dealers coming into Hanoi from the suburbs.

“They laid the dog meat all over the floor on the bus,” he recalls. “When the bus dropped them on Phan Chu Trinh, where they had already parked their bikes, the dog meat was taken out and delivered to stores around the city, many of which were bia hoi vendors.”

The glasses used for bia hoi also have a story. At first the beer was served in a 500ml ridged glass — made from the shards of other broken glasses, they were often light green or white, with bubbles visible through the glass layer. When glass was difficult to produce due to the war, big ceramic containers were used instead. They were so thick and heavy that they were called coc vai — ‘heavy glasses’.

In 1971, glasses were reintroduced, but this time they were smaller, holding about 300ml of beer. The word coc vai, however, has remained.

Today, restaurants like Backyard Bia Hoi (a trendy spot on Quang Khanh, Tay Ho, Hanoi) use coc vai to serve bia hoi — a nice little touch that harkens back to the Subsidy Era. was a shortage of material to make glass bottles. The beer companies are located in Hanoi. So they started producing bia hoi, a drink they could serve right out of the bom [keg]. This reduced expenses and the taste was also fantastic.”

The bia hoi from Habeco continued to ferment in those boms as they were delivered to outdoor outlets across the city. These establishments soon became magnets for city dwellers.

According to Tien, in those early days the flavour of the fresh beer coming out of the factory was just so tasty and special. He also remembers the white foam, the froth that would stick to the glass until the last drop was consumed.

Queues, Glasses and Lion Heads

In the 1960s, most people who drank beer were middle-aged men — younger people

didn’t have much money. The queues at the mau dich — the state-run stores and restaurants during the Subsidy Era — were always long. People had to shout to get attention, but it could still take an hour or so to get just one glass of beer. It wasn’t rare to hear barmaids yelling, “Stay quiet! If you don’t, I won’t serve you.”

The bia hoi joints on Co Tan (now Trang Tien), Nguyen Bieu, Cau Giay, Thuy Ta (on Hoan Kiem Lake), Mo, Vong and Hang Bai were always crowded. As the demand became greater, shops made their own rules for bia drinkers — which customers always followed. In the 1970s, says Tien, some shops didn’t sell beer by itself, but instead sold it together with goods left in stock such as peanuts, raw vegetables and even toys for children.

“In October 1974, Quan Thanh Department Store was selling ‘lion’s heads’

Bia Hoi Today

Although bia hoi can be found all over Vietnam, it remains very much a part of the unique character of Hanoi. Shops are open in every neighbourhood, and young people come to the Old Quarter to meet friends over a few glasses of beer.

Tien, however, rarely drinks bia hoi anymore. He thinks the beer has lost its original taste because many joints have mixed it with low quality beer or poor homebrewed versions.

“The beer is now the same everywhere,” he says. “It doesn’t have the same essence any more. It’s just cold and fermented, that’s all.”

To him, the best atmosphere for drinking bia hoi was in the past. It was a time where people drank slowly and quietly — you seldom saw any drunk people.

“We didn’t have enough beer to drink, let alone enough to get drunk.”

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The Beers

OF

Vietnam

The variety of local and regional beers in Vietnam can be surprising to many first-time visitors. Hoa Le took a culinary drinking tour around Vietnam, where it seems that every city has a beer named in its honour BIA HANOI

Hanoi and the north Bia Hanoi is produced by Habeco, one of the oldest breweries in the country — it was predated by a French brewery on the same site in Hanoi.

Pale straw in colour, clear and mild tasting, this American-adjunct lager isn’t just omnipresent in Hanoi, but also in most of the north — even the mountainous areas of Sapa and Ha Giang.

Hoang Sa

SAIGON SPECIAL

Ho Chi Minh City and national Saigon Special is one of the most ubiquitous beer brands in Vietnam. Its brewery, Sabeco, also produces Saigon Lager and Saigon Export — known to locals as ‘Saigon Green’ and ‘Saigon Red’.

333 PREMIUM EXPORT BEER

Ho Chi Minh City and national

Originally known as Beer 33 — adopting the extra digit in 1975 — this ubiquitous lager has been around since 1893. 333 is available throughout the country, including in Hanoi.

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Truong Sa

TRUC BACH BEER

Hanoi Also a product of the Habeco, the first bottle of Truc Bach Beer was produced back in 1958. Named after Truc Bach Lake in Hanoi, many locals say they prefer it to Bia Hanoi — fans of its light, sweet taste even say it could be the best lager in Vietnam.

HALIDA

Hanoi and national This thick brown bottle with an elephant on the label is from Hanoi’s Southeast Asia Brewery. It has a clean aroma with a bit of citrus scent.

The brew is very popular among Hanoians, and is now starting to make inroads outside the capital.

VIDA

Nghe An and North Central Vietnam Vida is the pride of Vinh City and Nghe An citizens. You won’t see a lot of this beer outside of Nghe An and its surrounding provinces, but you will hear a lot about them if you’re interested in local football.

They are a major sponsor of the V-League football team, Song Lam Nghe An, and there’s even a football tourney named after them, called the Vida Beer Cup.

HUDA

Hue and Central Vietnam Huda is the abbreviation of Hue and Denmark (‘Dan Mach’ in Vietnamese) — it’s a joint venture between Vietnamese and Danish partners. Huda beer is very popular in many cities in Central Vietnam including Danang, Hoi An and of course the old capital of Hue.

DUNG QUAT

Quang Ngai Located in the area near the country’s biggest oil refinery, Dung Quat, the Dung Quat Brewery made the first Czech technology-assisted bottle of Dung Quat beer in 1995. It has quickly become a favourite of people in Quang Ngai Province — and not just the workers from the refinery.

LOWEN PILS

Qui Nhon / Binh Dinh This full-bodied pilsner can hardly be seen outside of Binh Dinh Province.

Available from 2000, this 5 percent brew is slightly heavier than the other brand Qui Nhon Brewery makes, and is often considered to have a better taste too.

BIA CAN THO

Can Tho and the Mekong Delta Hardly known outside of the Mekong Delta area, Bia Can Tho is adored by locals there. Now, however, it’s facing strong competition from the variety of brews produced by Sabeco.

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The Belgians are Coming

Belgium is not just famous for its beer and chocolate, it’s also the place where the Smurfs came from

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Belgian beer has a worldwide reputation that precedes it. Now it is coming to Vietnam en masse. Niko Savvas speaks to two citizens of this small Benelux nation to get some juice

Q

uick, think of three facts about Belgium.

Finished? You probably said that it’s a small country in Europe (correct!) and then sort of trailed off dumbly as a thin trickle of saliva ran down your attractively cleft chin. It’s not your fault.

Little is known about this quaint and reclusive nation except that it has a waffle named after it. There is a Belgium-sized gap in most people’s memories — a gap that may soon be closed forever, for one main reason.

Belgium is getting famous for its beer.

Even in Vietnam.

What Exactly is a ‘Belgium’?

Kris Goetghebeur, a longtime veteran of the food and beverage industries (and professional Belgian beer guy), admits that his home country lacks the Q rating of its sexier European neighbors.

“Not many people have heard [of] Belgium, even [with] Brussels being the capital of Europe,” he says via email. But the country has much on which to pride itself.

Besides beer, he says that Belgium is bestknown for its chocolate, which he believes “outclass[es] the Swiss.” There are certainly worse things to be famous for than chocolate and beer.

Jan Segers, a member of the Belgian Chamber of Commerce in Saigon, echoes his countryman. He describes Belgium as the “centre of Europe” and Brussels as the “capital of the EU — European market.” He too mentions chocolate and beer as Belgium’s chief exports. He also says that Belgium is famous for its diamonds, which begs the question: how does a country that produces top-quality jewellery, chocolate and beer manage to remain anonymous?

The simple answer is that it doesn’t.

Belgium is gaining renown in Vietnam as an example of how to live the good life. People with money to spend want to appear sophisticated. The quality of Belgian products holds obvious appeal, but so does the gregariousness of Belgium’s cultural ambassadors in the country. As Goetghebeur says, “Explaining to Vietnamese citizens that Belgium’s two main products are beer and chocolate also makes it more easy to explain [my] Buddha body size.”

Who wouldn’t want to have a beer with a guy like that?

What’s on Tap?

The first Belgian Beer Festival in Vietnam was held last year in Hanoi. In April, another festival will be held in Saigon. Hoegaarden went on tap last month. Stella Artois won’t be far behind. There will at last be a respite from

Tiger draught for thirsty beer enthusiasts.

Already, there are over thirty Belgian beers available by the bottle in places like The Warehouse, one of Vietnam’s premier wine distributors. Yet Belgian beers are no longer limited to strictly upscale establishments (and the accompanying price tags).

Goetghebur, whose opinion can presumably be trusted in such matters, says that his all-time favorite beer Duvel, “a nice 8.5% Belgian ale”, can be found “all over Saigon at no extraordinary price”.

The names of Belgian beers can be enchanting: Cristal Alken, Trappist, Geuze. They conjure images of olde-tyme watermills and mossy stone walls, gentle golden pastures and thick oak barrels covered in snow. The pastoral charms of this quiet lowland European country seem worlds removed from the crowded chaos of Southeast Asia, so how does one explain the sudden appeal of Belgian beers to Vietnamese consumers?

Making Beer More Better

The answer, perhaps unexcitingly, lies with the craftsmen who make the beer.

“Belgium has a beer history,” Goetghebeur says, “where most beers were brewed in monasteries, abbeys and small family breweries.” He cites as an example Saint Sixtus Abbey, which brews the “most world recognised Westvleteren XII, a dark beer of 10.2 percent, which has been aged for 10 years.”

Goetghebeur explains that ever since the Abbey won a 2005 award for the brew, demand has been insatiable. “They had to make the street [to the abbey] one-way because of the many visitors,” he says. “It’s even hard to find this beer in Belgium, as they make more money on export.”

Segers is also quick to point out the local character and history of Belgian beers.

“Each village has its own brewery,” he says, which “gives [its] heritage, as most of these breweries are existing more than two or three hundred years.” This is no case of samesame-but-different, either. As Segers says, “Each beer has a different taste or colour.

Belgian beers…are tasted and consumed like a French wine. [They are] totally different than the lager beers from UK or Germany.”

According to Goetghebeur there are over 2,300 types of Belgian beer, each of which has its own specialised glass. As if this weren’t enough, many beers also have accompanying cheeses that further heighten your gastronomical pleasures.

“Beer refreshes the palate while eating cheese,” he says. “It’s no coincidence that a Chimay abbey beer makes a perfect pairing

with a Chimay abbey cheese. You may find the taste of your favourite beer returning as you polish off your cheese.”

Apparently the Belgians are pretty good at cheese, too.

The Beginning of the End of Mot-Hai-Ba?

Still, the beer drinking culture of Belgium, with its refined appreciation of nuanced flavours and culinary pairings, bears little resemblance to the alleyway beer parties of Vietnam, where the number of cans on the ground indicates how good of a time people are having. With regards to beer-drinking, it will take some time to shift from a quantitybased approach to one with a greater appreciation for quality.

Segers knows this all too well, having suffered through many nights “where all of the Vietnamese get drunk and me not.”

He attributes this to the weakness of the local beer as, “I can drink a big volume of it without getting drunk, just going to the toilet every five minutes,” a statement your correspondent empathised with so vigorously that his appendix burst.

Goetghebeur has also experienced his fair share of cheers-races across Vietnam.

As he says, “The most common returning memories are the getting noisier, red faces, supporting each other when ‘walking’ out…”

However, he’s also seen glimpses of a more cultured future.

“I had a few experiences drinking Belgian craft beers with Vietnamese friends and customers,” he says. “They quickly skipped the ‘cheers’-ing and just went sipping. They enjoyed the flavours, but I don’t remember any of them having more than two of our craft beers, and not because of the price of the beer…”

If his personal experiences are viewed in context of the increasing demand for Belgian beers, it could be argued that a new type of beer consumer is on the rise in Vietnam, one who won’t wake you up at 2am by knocking over a table of empty 333 cans.

While this idealistic future is probably a long way off, beer drinkers can take solace in the startling array of new choices that are already popping up at bars across the country. Count Goetghebeur among those anxious with anticipation.

“The rumour goes that Stella [Artois] draught will soon be available,” he says. “I am pretty excited about this.”

And why wouldn’t he be? His home country, the small but proud land of Belgium, is taking over the Vietnamese beer market.

There will finally be drinkable beer poured from this nation’s taps. It’s an invasion that everyone can support.

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 63

D

espite the inroads made into the beer-drinking market by the likes of Tiger, Heineken, Bia Saigon and Halida, bia hoi remains the staple choice of the average beer drinker in Vietnam, particularly outside the big cities. With ridiculously cheap prices and beer produced as close by as the beer matron’s front stoop, it’s difficult to see how other beers can successfully compete, in particular microbrewery or craft beer.

But there is one factor of craft beer that cannot be underestimated. Quality.

And over the past decade, Vietnam’s much-touted rising middle class has readily embraced the emergence of microbreweries.

The field has quickly crowded, with around 25 microbreweries in Hanoi alone offering locally produced, Czech-style beer, usually paired with good quality, tapas-style restaurant fare.

Keeping it Local

Established in 1995, Hoa Vien’s flagship brewery uses traditional Czech techniques to produce lagers and ales. It’s a local favourite in both Saigon and Hanoi.

The microbrewery specialises in

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A Micro Brew

The beer clubs are on the rise and bia hoi is as popular as ever. So how are the microbreweries, the purveyors of German or Czech-style beer, managing to fare?

Words by David Mann. Photos by Glen Riley producing two kinds of Czech-style beer, with prices starting at around VND44,000 for a 300ml glass of beer. For those wanting to party — or collapse, in my case — VND1.96 million will get you a 20-litre keg of freshly brewed beer.

If you’d prefer to collapse on premises, then there’s plenty of space to do so, with the venues in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City having an inviting outdoor courtyard and a massive amount of beer hall-style seating spread over more than one level.

The food and service is consistently decent, with offerings of good beer-grilled ribs

(VND262,000), Czech-style fried cheese (VND132,000), lamb and more steak than you can throw a chainsaw at.

The Goldmalt franchise of microbreweries also attracts a loyal following, particularly in Hanoi, with each pub brewing their own ales and producing different tastes. Compared with other breweries, the beers can be quite strong and also — as the name suggests — particularly malty.

Goldmalt pubs have a good mixture between Vietnamese and European beer hall designs, and while usually they have an extensive list of beers on the menu,

sometimes only one or two are available.

Nonetheless, their unpretentious service and humble food offerings attract a friendly and easygoing crowd, particularly on Friday evenings.

“That’s the last day of the week before everyone stays home with their family for the weekend,” says Thuc, who manages the Ngo Thi Nham branch in Hanoi.

Bring on the Beer Clubs

The rise of upmarket beer clubs in the past two years spearheaded by the Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City openings of Vuvuzela have provided stiff competition for the microbreweries. As the demand for beer in Vietnam has increased, so too has the popularity of such establishments, with throngs of cashed up patrons embracing their western-style customer service and wide selection of imported beers.

More importantly, in the beer clubs it’s not just the imported bottled beer that’s in demand, but draft lager. Microbreweries have been selling beer straight out of the keg for years. Now there’s a new player on the market doing exactly the same, except here it’s the brands that count, the international brands.

With the beer clubs’ propensity to attract younger drinkers — most microbrewery drinkers are aged 35 and up — many are seeing the beer clubs as a threat to the microbreweries.

Says beer connoisseur, writer and blogger Jonathan Gharbi, only time will

tell if the capital’s growing roster of upmarket beer clubs will be felt by the city’s microbreweries.

“Prices are much higher at beer clubs, and some beer drinkers will probably get tired of paying VND50,000 for a flat Carlsberg and opt instead for a Czech lager for VND30,000,” he says. “I think the interest in microbreweries is slightly increasing.”

Jonathan also says the addition of six new microbreweries to the capital in the past year alone is evidence that there is interest from beer drinkers and beer investors alike.

“There are a lot of people trying to enter the Vietnamese market right now,” he says.

“I think there will be stronger competition.

And the distributors of malt and hops are starting to talk about ale, so there is pressure coming from both suppliers and customers.”

However, Gharbi acknowledges that it will be a while before new foreign brewing traditions find their way to Vietnam. “Most microbreweries base their techniques on Czech or German traditions. To evolve beyond those will take time.”

Fortunately, one brewery in Saigon — the Pasteur Street Brewing Company — is trying to do just that. Only recently opened, this new venture specialises in American craft ales. If their brews take off, then it could potentially create a sea change in the microbrewery industry in Vietnam.

Until then, the Swedish beer guru says that Vietnam’s emphatic love of beer combined with the country’s growing prosperity will result in a higher demand

for upmarket beers without the luxury price tags.

With more international brands coming in, lavish venues in which to savour foreign brews will also become important. This could have even greater effect if import tariffs get slashed under a potential Trans Pacific Partnership free trade deal.

Which all begs the question. What’s going to happen to the humble bia hoi? Well there’s one thing that will never change, and that’s price. As long as bia hoi offers the plastic chair environment at cheap prices, a muchloved combination in Vietnam, it will be here to stay.

For everything you need to know about Vietnam’s microbreweries and quite a lot more, head to Jonathan Gharbi’s website beervn.com

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A Home Brew

I

You don’t just have to go to a bar, beer club or microbrewery to get a fix of the good stuff, you can get it at home. Words by Harry Hodge.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy

t seems fitting that I meet German Daniel Gehrig in Goldmalt, a microbrewery in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 7, to learn about his passion for brewing beer.

Armed with hops, malt and yeast, he tells me about the science behind his home brewing. One of the founders of the website Hobby Brewer Vietnam, now he wants to share his knowledge with others as a ‘beer instructor’.

Offering up recipes for brewing, links

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to purchase brewing equipment, updates on Hobby Brewer member meetings and more, Hobby Brewer Vietnam is a goldmine for anyone into making their own brews at home.

“My vision is for people here to be able to brew at home more easily,” says Daniel, while showing me the bread he’s made from extra ingredients. “People have found it so hard to start brewing here.”

The problem is the availability of key ingredients — which is inconsistent. So his

website offers access to extracts, yeast, hops and malt from Europe, as well as gear to get started. His own person system for home brewing yields 22 litres of beer a month, or roughly 70 bottles of beer at a time.

All in the Taste

So I could get a sense of what he’s making, Daniel brought along an IPA and a champagne beer for me to sample, while I also tasted some of Goldmalt’s black ale.

Uncorked for the first time that day, the cloudy IPA still had some sediment in the bottom, and it was nice to try something different from my usual diet of Saigon Red and Tiger. According to Daniel, the key to making a good homebrew is not expensive equipment. Rather, it’s the quality of the water and the ingredients.

“If you know how, you can brew with a simple pot,” he says, adding that he never brewed before retiring to Vietnam in 2007.

“I brew [whatever ingredients at the time] I have.”

To find out more about making your own brews, or to get involved with Hobby Brewer Vietnam, visit hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl

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The Process

OF

INGREDIENTS

EQUIPMENT 1

Brewing Beer

FERMENTER

5

Can be a food-grade plastic bucket or glass carboy with an air-tight fitting lid

2

BARLEY

WATER

AIR LOCK & STOPPER

Allows carbon dioxide to escape while keeping air in

3

RACKING CANE

Aids in the transfer of beer from wort to fermenter

4

HOPS

PROCESS

YEAST

THERMOMETER

Measures the temperature during the process

Step 1: Malting

BOTTLES

To decant the beer into

6

BOTTLE CAPPER & FILLER

A device to clamp caps onto bottles, and a device to transfer beer into bottles

7

KITCHEN ITEMS

Sanitising agent, stove, strainer, measuring cups, wooden spoon, large cooking pot, can opener, bowl

Malting is the process where barley is made ready for brewing

After germinating for 5 days, the grain is dried in a kiln

Grain is added to water and soaked for 40 hours

Step 2: Milling MALT SUGARS

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The barley is cracked to make it easier to absorb water, which allows sugars to be extracted from the malt

Source: brookstonbeerbulletin.com

Step 3: Mashing

WORT

MASH TUN

Mashing combines the cracked barley with water and heats it in a 'mash tun' for 1-2 hours

Step 4: Lautering Lautering is the process of separating the wort (the sugar liquid extracted during mashing) from the grains

Step 5: Boiling

Boiling the wort ensures sterility. During the boil hops are added, which contribute bitterness, flavour and aroma to the beer. After, the wort is set into a whirlpool and cooled to the desired fermentation temparature

Step 6: Fermenting & Conditioning After the wort has cooled, yeast is added to start fermentation.

Then it's conditioned to the point of almost freezing; the yeast will settle and the proteins will thicken

ALES & LAGERS DIFFERENTIATE AT THE FERMENTATION PORTION OF BREWING: WORT

Step 7: Filtering & Packaging Filter the beer to stabilise the flavour. Put in bottles, cap it and there you have it. Beer!

DIFFERENCES

ALES

LAGERS

FERMENTATION

Yeast rises

Yeast sinks

FERMENTATION TEMPERATURE

o 21 - 24 C

o 8 - 15 C

LENGTH OF FERMENTATION

2-3 Weeks

1-6 Months

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F

A Brief History of Beer Mythology

ew beverages inspire as many myths as beer. People like to talk about beer almost as much as they like to drink it. Unfortunately, when people talk they often tell outrageous lies, especially after they’ve had a few beers. Some of the most widely circulated untruths include:

The Egyptian Slaves who Built the Pyramids were Paid with Beer

We can thank the ancient Greek historian Herodotus for this one. He visited the pyramids nearly 2,000 years after they were built and apparently had a lousy tour guide — somehow he managed to mix up the story in two different ways.

First, the people who built the pyramids weren’t slaves. Contemporary archaeological research by Zahi Hawass and Mark Lehner has shown that most of the pyramid builders were ordinary Egyptian citizens who presumably would have been far less willing to toil for fermented yeast than captive foreigners.

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And while many workers were indeed buried with jars of beer, this was a standard Egyptian burial practice roughly equivalent to pouring out a 40 in modern times — and if your homie was paid with a Colt .45, then he deserves a little more sympathy than just dumping a can of brackish piss-water into the street, doesn’t he?

But anyway, this whole idea is a myth.

The historical revisionism doesn’t stop here, though. It continues into the Middle Ages, about which many believe:

Medieval People Drank Beer because the Water Was Too Dirty

Beer wasn’t even the intoxicant of choice for the mud-caked serfs of feudal Europe.

They preferred wine, and considered it essential to a healthy diet. They did have plenty of access to clean drinking water, though. Sources like Paulus Aeginata insisted that water, not beer, “is most pleasant to drink, and pure to the sight…”

Medieval people certainly did drink a lot

of weakly fermented beverages like mead, but this was mainly because fermentation was the only preservative process available before refrigeration. Which isn’t to say that medieval people didn’t like having a pint or two — a 10th century Saxon colloquy probably summed up the average person’s feelings best: “Beer if I have it, or water if I have no beer.” Medieval folks just liked to get drunk whenever possible, no matter how clean the water was.

Modern humans are a bit more discerning, as societies become increasingly health-conscious. Some people have even abandoned beer entirely due to the erroneous belief that:

Drinking Beer Will Give You a Big Belly

The infamous beer belly is the scourge of first-year university students and portly grandfathers alike. It’s also a lucrative godsend for the makers of novelty T-shirts (‘This isn’t a beer belly / It’s a gas tank for a sex machine’). Millions of fat oafs

Through its history, beer has inspired many people to tell lies — including some about the sweet tipple itself. Niko Savvas looks through the questionable evidence and gets some answers (cred goes to Owen Salisbury for his tireless research) have patted their pendulous tummies and blamed beer for their enormous girths.

“Guess I better cut back on the brewskis,” they say, chuckling as they admire the avalanches of flesh where their waists used to be. If only it was that simple.

A study by the Journal of Medicine examined the body-mass index (BMI) and abdominal height (how far your gut sticks out) of 2,300 drinkers and non-drinkers.

Researchers found that beer drinkers had no more ‘belly fat’ than non-drinkers, which is bad news for anyone who thought that cutting out the beer from his diet meant he could keep eating handfuls of deep-fried Mars Bars for lunch.

People sure do seem to be getting fatter and dumber these days, though. Why else would they think that:

A Beer Has as Much Alcohol as a Glass of Wine or a Shot of Liquor

If you’ve ever taken a mandatory alcohol awareness class after being busted for

underage drinking (and who are we kidding, of course you have), then you’ve probably heard this myth. It’s usually accompanied by a colourful infographic, though, so who’s going to disagree? The myth can be debunked in three easy steps.

1) Assume average serving sizes and potencies, which are: 40ml shot of 40 percent alcohol-by-volume spirit, 500ml of 5 percent ABV beer, and 150ml glass of 14 percent ABV wine.

2) Multiply the mililitres by the percent to find the total mililitres of alcohol per drink. The shot has 16ml of alcohol. The beer has 25ml. The wine has 21ml.

3) See how the numbers are different.

Of course, you could argue with these figures. You might say that a normal can of beer does indeed have the same amount of alcohol as a shot of 120-proof liquor, or that a double-slug of Everclear gets you way more twisted than a glass of Pinot Grigio. And you’d be right, which segues nicely to our final misconception that:

Beer Myths are Interesting to Talk About

Think about what you’ve just read. It was roughly 800 words about health, science and ancient history. Sure, beer was involved tangentially, but was that really worth it? There may be some beer myths that can be enjoyed without any need to think too hard (like the one about employees of a certain Mexican beer peeing in every batch), but these are always so obviously made-up that debunking them is like telling a toddler that Santa Claus died. It’s easy and fun, but eventually unsatisfying.

Don’t people drink beer to forget about stuff like this — all the pointless little quarrels that normally occupy our minds like a gaggle of unwashed hippies? If the cute stranger at the bar says a pint of stout is stronger than a pint of lager, are you really going to argue?

Don’t be that person. Nobody likes that person.

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Our Judges “The Pro”

Q UAN U T U T ’ S

Mark Gustafson

“The Non-Beer-Drinker”

W INE E MBASSY ’ S Francois Carteau

“The Bros”

S AIGON R UGBY C LUB players Billy Hammer and Cian O’Sullivan

“The English Teacher” The inimitable Joe Briel

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Beer Fridge Taste Test All this chat about the future of beers in Vietnam has gotten us thirsty. Ed Weinberg (words), Kyle Phanroy (photos) and Owen Salisbury (facilitation) opened a well-stocked fridge at a local Circle K to see what the everyman has on tap

A B e T e a r x o D n r o i m n y k e o r f s The Hardcore Gamer

The Hardcore Gamer goes to the bar for three reasons: to chug brews, to kick ass and to play surprisingly complicated drinking games she kinda remembers from her university days. The Hardcore Gamer’s enthusiasm for beer is matched only by her fiery competitiveness and her inability to recall most of the games’ rules.

Still, she never forgets their names, and she never stops pestering the rest of the group to play F*ck the Dealer or Presidents and Assholes or some other whimsical euphemism for binge drinking.

Protests of ‘I’d really prefer to drink my beer in peace’ are generally ignored by the Hardcore Gamer. If a deck of cards is present, she will insist on using it for an insanely difficult competition that requires participants to have a mastery of Euler’s Formula of complex analysis and the ability to repeat novella-length incantations from memory. She rarely knows how to shuffle. — Niko Savvas

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A B e T e a r x o D n r o i m n y k e o r f s The Reluctant Gourmand

The Reluctant Gourmand usually doesn’t drink beer. He doesn’t like the taste, and he finds beer to be too filling. He’d much rather have a gin-tonic or a nice Merlot, but since his friends have chosen a beer-only establishment and/or bought the current round of drinks, he’s forced to feign enthusiasm for his mealy mug of peasant-water.

The Reluctant Gourmand is never pleased by this, and reminds his companions of that fact repeatedly.

Would it have been that hard to pick a spot with a decent cocktail menu, or to not be such a cheap bastard once in a while? The Reluctant Gourmand certainly doesn’t think so, and he resents being surrounded by cultural barbarians every time he goes out on the town. He’ll finish his beer, oh, he’ll finish it, damn your oily hides, but every grimfaced swallow will be recorded at length later that night as he sits in his parlour room, writing in his calfskin diary with a goose-quill pen while sipping from a decanter of 16-year-old Lagavulin. — Niko Savvas

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I

f you’re a beer drinker in Vietnam, you’re pretty excited for the future.

Maybe you’re even sipping on one of those tasty Saison beers from Pasteur Street right now. Well, that probably would have won our little taste test — but that wasn’t exactly the point.

Upon entering the finest Circle K (45 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC) this side of the Hai Van Pass, we felt a surge of optimism.

Through two crammed fridges, we had nearly 25 beers to choose from. The labels dazzled, every shade of tin you could imagine. We had a feeling it would be hard selecting the 10 beers our blind testers would be tasting (we gave them 11).

We split the selections between domestic and international (although they’re all manufactured in-country — besides Beerlao and Singha — to avoid the dreaded import tax), the jury between pros and pro drinkers.

We had the classic criteria: — Aroma — Appearance — Taste — Aftertaste ... as well as a couple commonsense categories for cheap beer: — Buzz — Burps We didn’t calculate scores in a scientific way. You can’t give a monkey a top hat and call it Abraham Lincoln, and these beers would rather not wear a top hat. We just

The Scores S MALL S AMPLE -S IZE T HEATRE

No. 1: Beerlao — 4.0 (two votes) No. 2: Singha — 3.82 (two votes, one abstention)

T HE B EST

OF THE

R EST

No. 3: Heineken — 3.4 No. 4: Halida — 2.75

No. 5: Saigon Special — 2.73 No. 6: 333 — 2.57 No. 7: Larue / Budweiser (tie) — 2.4 No. 9: Asahi — 1.98 No. 10: Tiger — 1.9 No. 11: San Miguel — 1.77

asked the panel to give us a final score, 1 (worst) to 5 (best). No 5s were awarded.

Even with the pressures removed, the spectre of 333 remained — as in everyone was super scared they’d say they liked it.

Through round after round of same-tasting light lagers, the fear remained — even after 333 went down squarely in the middle of the pack. As Quan Ut Ut co-owner / recipe mastermind / beer brewer Mark Gustafson put so deftly, “Of all of them, there’s not much separation. You realise how close they all are to each other.”

And then Joe Briel, our English teacher / moderately wasted control interjected, “Has anyone got, like, this real heavy beer taste?”

Round 1: Larue

Our first beer is one I’ve always thought of as a feisty cheapie — in retrospect, that impression of flavour probably has more to do with the cool lion on the can.

With facilitator Owen delivering the cups unmarked, my sentimental favourite was soon derailed by accusations of lightness.

Francois Carteau from Wine Embassy called it a “4am beer”.

It did however inspire this exchange: — Joe: “You getting a burp from that?”

— Billy [Hammer, Saigon Rugby Club player]: “Yea...”

— Joe: “That wasn’t a lager burp, that was like a burp after a full meal.”

One in the books.

Round 2: Halida

“Super crisp,” Joe said after the pour of our second beer.

“This is a 1am beer,” Francois said. “The last one was a 4am beer, but with this one I don’t know if I want to go home yet.”

Mark said, “It’s not a Saigon, it’s crisp like an Asahi or Sapporo.”

A bit later, I heard the word ‘Halida’ from Mark’s end of the table. I went over to investigate, but I soon understood he was talking about the previous round. “It could be a Halida, it could be a 333, they’re all the same to me.”

Halida, as it turns out, is just a bit crisper.

Round 3: Asahi

The first overall score of ‘1’ was awarded to Asahi — and not by the tester who described his resulting burp as “through my nose and burned”.

A B e T e a r x o D n r o i m n y k e o r f s The Tactile Fixationist

The Tactile Fixationist just likes to have a beer in his hand, man. It’s not that he even drinks that much, but he’s gotta have something to hold on to, you know? He’d feel weird being at a bar, dinner party or kindergarten choir recital without a beer clenched in each fist like an aluminum life rope.

He hasn’t really had that many, even; you just always seem to catch him right after he grabbed a new one.

Some Perspective In more developed beer industries worldwide, the popular beers are usually light lagers. But my father told me how, in the US, Budweiser used to be a much different beer. Which is the same story reported in the 2006 Wall Street Journal article ‘After Making Beer Ever Lighter, Anheuser Faces a New Palate’: “Anheuser concedes Budweiser has changed over the years. It quietly tinkered with its formula to make the beer less bitter and pungent, say several former brewmasters, a byproduct of the company's desire to create a beer for the Everyman.”

I met a brewing consultant with Singha the other night, and he told me the same phenomenon occurred in his native Germany, where the most widespread beers

are — you guessed it — light lagers. And, he added, the Asian practice of putting ice into your beer doesn’t help.

We discussed Stella and Hoegaarden’s entries into the Vietnamese market, and he was dismissive: “Too late.” He thinks the local beer landscape is set — you drink Heineken if you’re spending money, or maybe Tiger; you drink 333 or a local lager if money is more a consideration than quality, or if you’re tram phan tram’ing at a wedding. No one wants to binge-drink an IPA. But, as in the rest of the world, all this sameness can really help a unique beer to stand out. And, as Vietnam’s beer culture evolves, it isn’t a stretch to think that eventually these beer fridges will have room for more than just more of the same.

The Tactile Fixationist will occasionally relinquish his grip on his beer to play a round of darts, but his performance is often impaired by the lack of simultaneous alcohol consumption and he usually acts swiftly to rectify this. Predictably, the Tactile Fixationist is a frequent visitor to the restroom after a certain point in the festivities, where everybody just hopes he puts his beer down long enough to wash his goddamn hands.

— Niko Savvas

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A B e T e a r x o D n r o i m n y k e o r f s The Wistful Gazer

The Wistful Gazer has deep thoughts.

Usually these thoughts come to her after the seventh or eighth beer of the night, when she finally begins to see things clearly. The epiphanies of the Wistful Gazer vary in content — some nights she may realise that a coworker really isn’t all that much smarter or more qualified than her, on others she might at last understand that an ex-partner wasn’t even worth the heartache.

Her visions are often challenging to decipher for the outsider, due to Wistful Gazer’s tendency to speak in tongues, but sometimes the planets align and two Wistful Gazers find themselves in the midst of a beatific drunken mind-meld. It is usually best to avoid pairs of Wistful Gazers at moments like this because what they’re talking about is really none of your f’ing business, even if their conversation is being screamed at Robert Plantian volumes. — Niko Savvas

When guessing which beer they might be tasting, two testers guessed fellow Japanese export Sapporo, while one guessed “Sh*t beer inc.” and another wrote, “It tastes like a tea bag that was left in for too long, then removed.”

Mark was one of the close ones. He said, “I’m thinking this might be a Sapporo, it’s a little sweeter.”

But we noticed the other testers understanding the gravity of their task for the first time. Not only did they have to drink halves on seven more beers, they actually had to taste them too.

Round 4: 333

333 came and went without much fanfare.

“Smells like Bui Vien to me,” Billy ventured.

“Smells like the same mild bitterness of all the beers [we’ve tasted],” Mark added.

But still, Billy felt he was onto something.

“I’ve drunk way too many of these in the past. It’s gotta be a Saigon Red or a Tiger.”

In his notes, fellow rugger Cian O’Sullivan wrote, “Tastes oddly familiar — again! After three beers, shouldn’t these be starting to taste better??”

Francois was one of the ones buoying 333’s middle-of-the-pack result. “It’s close to a Saigon,” he said. “We’re getting better.”

Round 5: San Miguel

The gold can stirred up some more 333 speculation, on its way to the worst scores of the night.

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“It’s the worst I’ve had so far,” Mark said.

“I disagree,” Billy countered.

“I mean, I could drink this all night, it doesn’t taste like anything.”

I mentioned that photographer Kyle — admittedly not a beer drinker — took a sip from the remnants of the can and called it the best beer of the night.

Murmurs abounded, as the testers weighed the possibilities of psychological trickery.

“Now that you mention that,” Francois said, “I’m sure this is the 333.”

Round 6: Budweiser

Mark called this one off the bat. “Well this has more aroma than the last beer,” he said, giving the pour a sniff. “Not a lot though.”

He took a sip. “That is Budweiser.”

Billy said, “Is that because I just mentioned Budweiser?” He had in the previous round, telling a bartending story about how he used to switch the taps between Bud Light and Miller Light when one ran out, and no one ever knew the difference. “It’s a lot like playing a card game here, the names we’re throwing out.”

Billy took a sip, then agreed.

Though the two Americans in the crowd nailed it, the others named an array of domestics as the likely subject: Huda, Zorok, Larue. One of them also commented, “I’m running out of taste buds / beer names.”

Round 7: Tiger

By the seventh round, people were tired.

A B e T e a r x o D n r o i m n y k e o r f s Billy talked about the American football playoffs, Mark handed out some Quan Ut Ut key chains, Joe smoked a cigarette.

“Okay guys, just four more to go.”

Is it restlessness that propelled Tiger to the second-worst scores on the night?

Mark thought it was the smell of industrial chemicals.

“You know that smell when you stain your dresser?” Mark asked. “I’m getting aroma of paint thinner.”

Round 8: Saigon Special

With the hometown beer poured, our testers moved into the fifth stage of grief — acceptance.

“Everything is starting to taste more and more the same,” Mark said. The other testers agreed, and their emptier score sheets seem to support the sentiment.

“This might be a Heineken,” Billy said.

“I was thinking this might be Tiger,” Mark replied.

“Tiger’s not as fizzy as this,” Joe said.

“Tiger’s not fizzy at all. It’s like super light.”

This is what it’s come to.

Round 9: Heineken

I thought I didn’t like Heineken. But it turns out that the same advertising that positions it as a classy choice to some has an equally strong, inverse effect on me — it seems to be the brand of poseurs everywhere.

But, in finishing first among beers bottled in-country, it turns out that it’s also the

finest choice in most domestic beer fridges.

“Either they’re just starting to go down good,” Mark said, “or that one’s alright.”

Round 10: Singha / Beerlao

For the last round, we decided to mix it up — or rather, Circle K’s lazy stockists decided for us.

Reaching for nominee number 10, we found only one Singha on the shelf. Then we noticed the Beerlao right below, and got a tricky idea.

Both beers — bottled out of country, using a different water supply than our other taste test selections — finished at the top of our judges’ charts. Joe said his Singha was the “beeriest”; Cian wrote about his Beerlao, “I think it was the best, but that said it was my tenth.”

Mark wrote in after the tasting in support of Beerlao (he was given a Singha, which he rated a ‘3’): “I did not receive a Beerlao in the last round or I would have maybe rated [it] a ‘5’, as I drank two of them after the tasting.

“It makes you realise how all of these companies in Vietnam are offering the exact same product. Biochemists at these breweries know how to be different and can brew different styles. They are all copycats and think this is the standard. I hope it all changes and new styles make their way in to the local markets. I know there are many changes to the beer scene coming soon, and my company and a few others are starting to make it happen.”

You

God, you hate cheap gimmicky stunts like A Taxonomy of Beer Drinkers. It reminds you of those lame Internet questionnaires that ask ‘Which cast member of the Simpsons are YOU?’ or ‘What’s your REAL mitochondrial age?’

Sure, you’ll have a beer if you feel like it, but you don’t need to define yourself by your drinking preferences.

Maybe tonight you’ll have an oatmeal stout with dinner, or maybe you’ll have a chocolate martini instead. You are vast; you contain multitudes. You know that it’s ridiculous to suggest that the fact a person enjoys amber ales instead of dunkelweizens says anything significant about his or her personality. You see this list for what it is — a lazy pandering to hordes of bovine-eyed commoners desperate for any chance to categorise themselves under an archetype so as not to feel so hopelessly alone in the world. That’s why you’re you.

Beautiful, beautiful you. — Niko Savvas

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HCMC

Making the Metro a Success With the metro system due to launch in Ho Chi Minh City in 2018, here are 10 things that need to change to make it work.

Words by Nick Ross. Additional reporting by Ian Wills

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T

he 2018 arrival of the metro system is great news for Ho Chi Minh City. It will reduce congestion and provide a more convenient way to travel around an increasingly polluted city. However, anyone who takes faith in the Field of Dreams motto — “Build it and [they] will come” — is mistaken. To make the metro a success, a lot of work beyond building the lines and the stations needs to be done.

Here are some of the challenges to be overcome. Not only could the metro system be positive in its own right, but it could lead to the transformation of the Ho Chi Minh City we know today.

1) Sidewalks

2) Parking

For a metro system to be successful you need sidewalks or pavements, the facilities that make a city where the metro exists into a walking city.

While Central Hanoi is reasonably wellendowed on this front, Ho Chi Minh City is not a walking city. Large numbers of roads don’t have sidewalks, and those that do exist are often in disrepair or crowded with motorbikes and street sellers. For people to be able to use the metro system they need to be able to walk, regardless of the climate.

And more importantly, they need shade.

Clever town planning has enabled Singapore and Bangkok to deal with these issues, Kuala Lumpur to a lesser extent. Ho Chi Minh City has a lot of work to do.

A lack of adequate parking in the out-oftown stations will mean that few people will use the metro. But according to Dr. Akira Hosomi, a consultant on the project, they are looking at ways of providing motorbike parking. “This will depend on space and the acquisition of land,” he explains, admitting that this may be vital for getting passengers to use the network.

3) Safety Ho Chi Minh City is built on a swamp and there will definitely be fears that the metro system will lack stability. But, says Dr. Hosomi, this has been taken care of thanks to “drilling pylons deep enough to keep the structure stable along with latitudinal supports to make sure the project is safe and reliable over a long-term period”.

With so many stories circulating in Vietnam of bad construction, convincing the people of Ho Chi Minh City that the metro is safe may be one of the biggest issues the authorities have to face.

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4) Smartphone and Tablet Usage

6) Pricing

Go to any metro system — Paris, New York, London, Singapore, Bangkok — and people comfortably bring out their smartphones or tablets and use them while they’re on the trains.

Sitting on a train, especially an underground train, can be dull. So, the use of these gadgets as well as books, magazines and newspapers is vital — they take away the monotony of the journey.

However, with petty theft and snatching rampant in Ho Chi Minh City, it’s going to take a lot of convincing to persuade people to take out their phones and use them in public.

The metro will need security guards and a good CCTV system. More importantly, it will need a security system that works.

If the metro is going to priced the same as the buses — around VND5,000 a ride — then it will attract the everyday passenger. This may well deter Saigon’s growing middleclass from using the system. Status is a big issue in Vietnam, and if the metro is seen as transportation for the lower income brackets of society, it will put off office workers and other potential commuters.

Likewise, if the cost of a ride is too high, then potential passengers will continue with their existing forms of transport — motorbike, car and bus.

Getting this right — both price and the type of passenger they want to attract — will be a big challenge. And more importantly, getting people to switch from their existing mode of transport to the metro will take time. In Bangkok it took years. The initial projection of 400,000 passengers a day still hasn’t been reached.

5) Ticketing According to Dr. Hosomi, the metro system will use some sort of contactless smartcard, similar to the cards used in places like London or Singapore. This means that you put money on the card and top it up when you run low.

There are, however, two issues with this.

First, credit cards or debit cards are still not widely used in Vietnam. These ticketing systems rely heavily on payment by card.

Also, there are few, if any, machines in Vietnam taking payment by cash. And with Vietnam only using notes rather than coins, there may be issues with making this work.

Paying with wrinkled paper money is far slower than paying by card.

For the contactless smartcard system to work, there will need to be alternative forms of payment available. Some possibilities are scratch cards, payment by SMS or top-ups at convenience stores.

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7) Queuing With more national and international flight travel, the previously non-existent concept of queuing is now starting to be understood in Vietnam.

In Singapore and Bangkok, there are clear arrows showing where people should wait for an arriving train. During rush hour in London, passengers waiting on the platform are informed by loudspeaker that they should allow people to get off the train first before boarding. These rules are followed.

Ho Chi Minh City will not only need those arrows and those public announcements, it will also need to make sure people follow them.

8) Eating and Drinking In Vietnam, few people eat or drink while they’re on the move. So, avoiding eating and drinking on the metro or on platforms shouldn’t be an issue.

However, stopping people from spitting, smoking or littering may be a touch more difficult. In the late 1990s an anti-spitting

law was introduced in Bangkok. This was then followed by anti-litter laws that are so stringent there are even fines for throwing a cigarette butt on the ground. Ho Chi Minh City may have to follow a similar formula.

9) Proximity to Centres of Activity For people to use the metro, offices, schools, hospitals and shopping malls must be in close proximity to the stations. In Thao Dien, the location of one of the stops, a shopping mall complete with apartments has already been built above the future station. Further up the line at An Phu and Rach Chiec stations, developments are presently underway that include the building of the largest shopping mall in Vietnam. An underground shopping mall is also being constructed between the first two stops on Line 1, Ben Thanh and the Opera House.

This is an encouraging start; more of this will be needed.

Says Dr. Hoshimi, “The close location of shopping malls, business parks and educational establishments [is key] to persuade people that the metro system is an easy and efficient way to commute to where they want to go.”

10) Walkways to these Centres And of course, it’s vital to make these centrepoints accessible. That is something that has been done amazingly well with Singapore’s MRT. Each station has a number of exits — some of them long subterranean walkways — making it easier for people to leave the metro at the exact spot they require. Bangkok has also followed this example, but relies more on overground walkways as opposed to underground passages.

But to do this requires vision and planning. And with it presently being unclear what establishments will be close to all the stations — especially in Districts 2 and 9 — it may be difficult to enact prior to the completion of Line 1.

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INSIDER

HCMC

The Future of Downtown Saigon As demolition reaches a fever pitch, 12 design proposals show what the heart of the new city might look like.

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E

ver since Henri Cérutti-Maori’s failed plan of the 1930s — demolishing the Ho Chi Minh City Hall, extending present-day Nguyen Hue through the block and surrounding it all with Corbusian visions — the future of the downtown political centre has been an open question. Only recently, with the demolition of 213 Dong Khoi, the International Style landmark on its corner, has this question been openly addressed.

12 proposed solutions to this design impasse were presented at the Ho Chi Minh Exhibition Center (92 Le Thanh Ton, Q1), one block away from design ground zero, at the end of last month. It was open to the

public, and viewers were encouraged to leave feedback in a not-very-full-looking clear plastic box. The proposals were based around imposing new buildings, one of which will become the new government offices, as the 1909 City Hall building they currently occupy is being turned into a museum.

As it was a blind test, designs weren’t marked by architecture firm, although some had helpful explainers around and a couple even had flower bouquets.

Despite the naming intrigue, this reporter managed to ascertain the identities of two of the represented firms — metro system collaborators and city planning advisors Nikken Sikkei, with perhaps the

most lauded design (#106); and Urban Planning Institute’s Nguyen Binh Duong, with a design that seeks to unite the green pathways of the city, which one cheeky commenter called “Vincom 3“ (#110, not pictured). There was also a lightbox branded with the name of Hong Kong architects DCM Studios, underneath the most Bitexcolike model (#109).

Throughout most of the 12 designs, there are strands in common: preservation of the previously marked-for-demolition 1888 building at 59-61 Ly Tu Trong, new low-rise constructions (the design brief purportedly specifies a height limit), greenery and public space. Some designs evoke the modern

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“Throughout most of the 12 designs, there are strands in common: preservation of the previously marked-for-demolition 1888 building at 59-61 Ly Tu Trong, new low-rise constructions, greenery and public space”

shapes of Jetsons-type buildings (“it rises in the back of City Hall like a spaceship,” one observer said about #113), some sheath the colonial surrounds in glass and steel like some European capitals have done, some have the kind of uneasy coexistence with heritage buildings seen on university campuses the world over.

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Feedback On the preservation-minded Facebook group Saigon Heritage Observatory, the designs were critiqued.

One oblong green-glass design was labeled “a green whale” by architect Mel Schenck.

The design with the twin descriptions ‘Symbolic Twin Towers representing the future of HCMC’ and ‘Under the Big Roof representing the Spring of HCMC’ was met with a “no no no =.=”. Historian Tim Doling called the Nikken Sikkei design the most intriguing — it shifts 59-61 Ly Tu Trong off its foundations, positioning it symmetrically behind City Hall.

Thomas Hoang, a former employee in the Vietnamese Embassy in London and future Ho Chi Minh City Council aide in the city planning department, came down to see what his future workplace would look like. I asked him what he liked best.

“The Japanese [Nikken Sikkei] design is okay,” he said. We walked around a corner to a raised glass model, columns supporting the building to create an open plaza underside. “I’ve seen a couple of these in Germany already. They build things like this in Germany. Funny, to be honest.”

Thomas said his time in Europe gave him perspective, on how cities are actually affected by the designs they commission. It made him wary of all the glass surrounding

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113

107

109

these old colonial buildings.

The Epcot Center-looking London City Hall, he feels, was a mistake — and its wacky distorted egg shape looks curiously dated just 13 years after construction, like one of those early iMacs. Instead, he’d like Saigon to look like something along the lines of Rome’s city hall, Palazzo del Senatore, sitting atop the Capitoline Hill.

With its double ramp of stairs designed by Michelangelo it gives off an imperial aura, befitting of the city it commands.

The Plan

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In June of last year, I had the opportunity to speak with Nguyen Thang Viet, who was charged with refining the design brief that gave this design competition shape. He didn’t have much to work with.

“I think the people who wrote that didn’t know what was there on the site,” he said.

“The history of each building, the conditions, and what they could do with them. They just, from their imagination and memory, they just thought, ‘I can keep this building, then I can get rid of the rest.’”

He ended up having to learn the history of the site on his own. And he came to some of the same conclusions as the design competitors.

“My idea was that the new structure can go over the existing structure... The building can cover and then contain the old building inside it. The exterior of the old French colonial building can be the interior.”

His pick is #106, “of all that we got“.

But as for the master plan, the style this new construction should reflect?

“I wish I knew. I don’t know their agenda.”

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INSIDER

NATIONAL

The Businessmen of Beer

With a big month for beer in Vietnam already upon us, Jon Aspin meets some of the men who call it their 9 to 5

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Bottling line at Sapporo, Long An

Sapporo Vietnam general director Hirofumi Kishi

Sapporo HQ, Long An Vietnam

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Brewing Platinum Pale Ale with Michael Comerton

The Marketer Of the approximately 3 billion litres of beer that will be drunk in Vietnam this calendar year, around 25 percent of it will be downed this month. It's a statistic I'm made aware of by Joshua Lee, a Singaporebased advertising executive who previously worked in Ho Chi Minh City with Vietnam Brewery Limited, maker of Danang’s Bierre Larue and custodian of famous imports Heineken and Tiger.

“There’s only two things that have ever really mattered when it comes to beer,” he says. “Taste and image.”

His words ring true, and certainly the prevailing beer culture tends to support the latter, where branded beer dispensers known as ‘towers of power’ are displayed like trophies on tables, where promo girls –– walking billboards if you will –– encourage a convivial atmosphere, and hordes of 20-yearolds jump all over each other. Yes, the age of the beer club — beer’s coming out party in Vietnam –– has been well and truly upon us for the best part of the last two years.

The Director However, the big players have been circling around the potential of Vietnam for much longer than that. 90 million people with a growing middle (no pun intended) will tend to make that happen.

San Miguel and Carlsberg have been here for 20 years, while Vietnam is the largest market in the world for Tiger and the third largest market for Heineken, who have dominated the premium space. Sniffing a win, this year the big daddy of them all, AB Inbev — owner of Budweiser, Becks and Stella Artois — is planning its own assault.

Another recent entry, Japanese brand Sapporo, has been making an impact — challenging the market leaders in the premium category. They’ve rode the wave of a sluggish economy, beer clubs and the Vietnamese obsession with ‘premium’.

They’ve also invested US$75 million in their own brewing facility in Long An.

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“We wouldn’t enter the market any other way,” says local general director Hirofumi Kishi. Before they set up shop, they spent two years conducting a series of surveys to make sure Vietnamese taste buds were ready for the oldest brew in Japan. Hirofumi sums up why they were in two words: “Japanese quality.”

He explains, “Vietnamese drinkers want a premium brand that’s expensive. It’s good for their mentality. They also trust Japanese products, so that’s why we had to make our own facility here, so our product can be made exactly to our standards, and we can protect the reputation of the brand.”

And what of the competition? “Every year beer consumption in this country grows by 10 or 15 percent, and the market itself gets bigger, so every year there is a brand new set of customers to focus on. We’re not scared of anyone else.”

The Brewer Famous brands like Sapporo, Heineken and Tiger are all well and good — staples of the convenience store. All offer a choice to thirsty drinkers and a way for brandconscious consumers to identify themselves.

But is it really much of a choice?

Michael Comerton is the Irish brew master behind Platinum pale ale — what he describes as an aromatic Australianstyle pale ale. So far distributed in about 30 venues in Saigon, including places like Quan Ut Ut and Caravelle, it’s a six-month-old business that’s starting to turn a profit.

I trust his pedigree. Michael is legitimate beer royalty. He created one of my favourite session beers of all time while at Lion Nathan in Australia — the James Squire Golden Ale. He believes that the market here is hitting saturation. “Already we have Sabeco, Carlsberg, VBL, Sapporo, SAB Miller and San Miguel in Saigon. Habeco is in Hanoi, AB Inbev are coming… I don’t think all of them will be here in two years.”

Implied here is that in the rush for market share, discount wars between the big players are inevitable, devaluing the market as a whole and making it harder for little guys like himself to compete. Venues will be the winners in the short term he says, as they can demand a whole lot more for less, but it’s the consumer who ultimately suffers, missing out on the diversity of product that we see in established beer markets in the west.

But still he sees hope. “We’re producing a premium end product that tastes a little different to the beers Vietnamese are used to drinking. It’s a completely different flavour profile. So we expect to grow with them as the market matures, and drinkers here become more acquainted with premium beers made from real ingredients.”

The Publican Our anonymous restaurateur has seen the market develop over the past few years, but has a hard time believing mainstream tastes will extend to anything more than lager — at least not for the time being.

“It’s like wine,” he says. Most of his customers “don’t know the difference between a bottle of Dalat and a 1980 Coonawarra, so they get embarrassed and lose face. You don’t want to do that to your primary customer base, they’ll stand up and walk out. The same applies to beer.”

So what do restaurateurs get out of the beer game? “It’s an extra,” he says, “and it’s all based on relationships.”

Though his venue doesn’t go through the same volume as the average beer club, the bar is still an important place for beer companies to be represented. And he knows that.

“There’s so much competition, I know I can get a lot out of them, so I do. It’s important to them that they be in my location. If a company like Diageo for example can afford to pay US$150,000 to get David Beckham to come to Chill for an hour, I don’t feel bad about hitting them up for a few extra uniforms.”

Sapporo on tap

insider

ARTS

HANOI

The Art of Ao Dai

An exhibition last month put the ao dai in the spotlight. In doing so it created an enduring connection between past and present. Words by Katie Jacobs.

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F

loating throughout the room like coloured spectres, the silk robes project a magical radiance. Each endowed with a unique personality, they hang silently, confident in the knowledge that they are beautiful, they are special.

I bond with a simple blue. She isn’t the showiest in the room, there are no glittering dragons embroidered across her front (although the one that does have these motifs is also a wonder), but she has a classy dignity that draws your eye to her delicate detailing. Only those willing to look closely see her markings, the almost imperceptible lines and shading that give the fabric an endless depth. Her insides are golden, fastened from the world by tiny gold clasps. She is, quite simply, the most beautiful ao dai I have ever seen.

I am at the opening of the Goethe Institute’s newest exhibition — a private collection of eleven historic ao dais. These robes are not simply garments, they are symbols of beauty, a glowing remnant of a rich history.

“The past lights up the present,” says

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Thai Kim Lan, poet, philosopher and owner of the ao dai collection. Standing among the silk gowns, it is impossible to disagree.

With a name as elaborate as Das prachtvolle Gelb läuft über blasse Blätter (The gorgeous yellow runs over pale leaves), a line from one of Thai Kim Lan’s poems, I should have guessed this exhibition would be unique.

The Stream of History “When I first saw these robes of heavy silk in glorious colours, I was totally enchanted,” says Dr. Almuth MeyerZollitsch, Goethe Institute Director in Vietnam. With the help of German artist Veronica Witte, the three have not just designed an exhibit of historic ao dais, they have created a world in which to experience them.

Arriving at the bustling grand opening, I can find only one sign in English — “floor may be harmful to high heels. Enter at your own risk.” A little dramatic I think to myself, until I enter the room and find that the floor is made of hundreds of intricately laid don ganh, the bamboo poles used to

carry baskets. And indeed those in high heels do seem to be struggling.

“The hard wooden floor and shimmering silk robes are polar opposites,” explains Witte. “But in this room the floor looks like rolling waves and the robes hanging stiffly on their hangers become statuelike. What is hard? What is soft? It is all interchangeable in the stream of history.”

Covering the far wall, the image of a historic palace keeps watch over the room, while strategically interspersed televisions mounted on colonial era shutter poles add an element of intrigue. Interspersed at intervals, each screen periodically comes to life with a person speaking. Taking turns to play their part through the screens, the people create a virtual conversation focused on history and time, all cantered around the ao dai.

Entering the room, one immediately feels transported into a cocoon of Vietnamese history mingled with the evolution of the present. The result is mesmerising.

An Evolution The ao dai, as we know it today, is the

product of hundreds of years of evolution.

The modern two-panelled style, however, is largely credited to the 1930s French-trained Hanoi designer Cat Tuong, also known as Le Mur. Blending traditional design with European fashions, he adapted the ao ngu than, a five-panelled aristocratic gown of the 19th and early 20th centuries, to produce a clean cut, loosely fitting twopanelled tunic over pants. It wasn’t until the 1950s, however, when waists were drawn in to accentuate the woman’s curves, that this style of ao dai became widely popular.

By the 1960s, many woman were choosing to wear their ao dai in the ‘Madame Nhu’ style without the collar.

The following two decades saw a decline in popularity. Not until the mid-1990s were ao dais once again a popular fashion choice. Today they are widely regarded as Vietnam’s (unofficial) national dress.

design is usually not of the intricate beauty found in those once worn by the aristocratic classes. What was once everyday wear (at least for the wealthy) has now become a work of art.

“Something once so intimate is now so priceless,” says Thai Kim Lan. “These ao dais have been preserved by the efforts of my family so that the broken glory of the past can live on into the future.”

Das prachtvolle Gelb läuft über blasse Blätter

is not just a lovely exhibition, it is offering viewers a slice of Vietnam’s rich culture.

The glorious art of these once ordinary (now extraordinary) garments captures a piece of beauty from history and draws it into the present to enrich our future.

As Thai Kim Lan says, “Without a past our present will be broken.”

The Goethe Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. For more information about their exhibitions, go to goethe.de

Historic Beauty Although the ao dais of today create a flattering silhouette, their construction and

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The Criteria We used the following criteria to assess the burgers.

Each category was marked out of 10.

— The bun — The patty — The sauce — Presentation — Overall taste — Price

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EAT & DRINK

HANOI

Burger Wars

Food & drink

T

Four expert judges battled lunchtime traffic, salad cravings and meat sweats to taste 10 burgers in two days. David Mann delivers the verdicts on who’s dishing up the best beef burgers in Hanoi.

Photos by Julie Vola

here has been much talk recently about which joint serves up the best burger in Hanoi. So, we decided to find out for ourselves and hit 10 restaurants known for the quality of their

patties-inside-a-bun.

A quick disclaimer. Each restaurant agreed to join the tasting — this certainly wasn’t done blind. And each restaurant was allowed to choose the burger they would

make for the challenge.

Our instruction was simple and clear: give us your best burger. Even better, give us two of them, exactly the same.

Our entrants duly complied.

The Judges

P ETER ‘T HE F OODIE ’ N ACKEN

Tall, German, and armed with razor sharp taste buds, Nacken helps run the Foodies in Hanoi Facebook group which has accumulated more than 3,600 members since its inception.

Peter has dined in restaurants from New York to Fiji but maintains that “at heart, I’m still a Hamburg-er.”

DAVID ‘THE FOOD WRITER’ MANN Seasoned food writer, Word staff editor and self-declared burger lover.

S OREN ‘T HE B UTCHER ’ N IELSEN

This is one man who knows his meat. A butcher turned food production manager turned hotdog-maker; Soren is the man with the hottest wieners in town.

Pioneering Hanoi’s first authentic Danish hotdog stand, he’s also launching a range of authentic German bratwursts and Italian sausages.

C YPRIEN ‘T HE F OOD AND W INE G UY ’ P IERLOVISI

Few people love food as much as Frenchman Cyp, co-founder of the new hit gastro pub, Cousins, and the regional manager for gourmet food importer, Classic Fine Foods.

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The Burgers

Shay’s Famous Burger

Tracy’s Damn Good Burger

Daluva VND180,000

Tracy’s Bar VND165,000

Our first stop on the Burger Wars trail and Daluva came out swinging. It’s renowned for its inventive and well-executed fare and Shay’s Famous Burger is no exception. It offers a generous 200g patty of locally sourced beef, ground to the restaurant’s 80:20 meat-to-fat ratio, designed to make it sizzle when it’s thrown into the pan. Topped with a slice of cheddar cheese, smoked bacon and pickles, it’s served in a custom-made brioche bun sourced daily from S. Honore, alongside a helping of fries and green salad.

Overall Verdict The seaweed salt on the French fries, caper aioli and bell pepper ketchup certainly made this a compelling and affordable choice, particularly for those with the taste for the exotic. The bun does err on the sweet side, but overall a good performer.

A treasured community bar perched on the entrance to Xuan Dieu, this cosy local favourite churns out an impressive selection of goods despite a very tightly squeezed kitchen.

The 200g Australian beef patty is cooked on a small grill and also comes with the works: caramelised onions, a fried egg, lettuce, bacon and cheese. Sides include a serving of pre-made coleslaw and barbeque flavoured potato crisps.

Overall Verdict It’s incredible that Tracy’s is able to serve up such a cheerful and well-stacked option from its tiny kitchen. It’s the kind of big, tasty burger that you would expect from your favourite neighbourhood pub.

Tay Tap Burger

Wagyu Beef and Blue Cheese Burger

Tay Tap Bar and Grill VND180,000

The Republic VND240,000

One of Tay Ho’s favourite new evening venues, Tay Tap has caused a stir with its hearty pub favourites and lakeside location.

The Tay Tap Burger comes with 180g of Australian chuck beef, grilled and stacked with cheddar cheese, cos lettuce, tomato and balsamic onions. The burger also comes neatly presented on a rustic butcher’s block and with a side of French fries.

Overall Verdict This burger definitely has the makings of a top contender.

The nice juicy patty and neat presentation caught our judges’ attention but unfortunately some of the highly anticipated trimmings, like balsamic onions and the cheddar, didn’t make it onto the burger. In previous encounters, however, the judges said that this burger was “fantastic” and on a good day is one of Hanoi’s best.

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Packing 180g of Wagyu beef, fresh rocket and blue cheese sauce, the Wagyu Beef and Blue Cheese Burger is big on flavour.

The sizable patty is classic grilled and served with a nice helping of blue cheese that melts its way into a soft sourdough bun. Dipping bowls of tomato chutney and aioli give an extra kick of flavour to a generous side of fat chips.

Overall Verdict At VND240,000 this option isn’t cheap, but the ingredients make the pricing hard to argue with.

Combining high hitting toppings and top-notch beef into a burger big enough to give you lock jaw, this option delivered strongly on value. The judges also agreed that the sourdough bun was the best of the bunch. If you’re not big on blue cheese, the generous dollop may overpower the taste of that fine Wagyu patty, but overall, you won’t be disappointed.

St. Helen’s Washington State Prime Beef Berger Don’s Bistro VND199,000++ As you would expect from Don’s, this burger is delivered with style. The Washington chuck beef is fed through a grinder three times to ensure consistency before being cooked over a wood-fire grill, infusing the 120g patty with a rich (and sometimes elusive) smoky flavour. Topped with a medium-aged cheddar cheese from Vermont, dill pickles, grilled onions, lettuce and tomato, it also comes with a serving of golden fat chips.

Overall Verdict In a near unanimous vote, this delicious burger was deemed the best of the entire challenge. The reasons were simple: an unrivalled smoky tasting beef patty, a bity cheddar cheese and a top-class bun to bring it together.

Presentation was also a winner, with the burger arriving as a carefully stacked tower with the cheese oozing down the sides — an instant mouth waterer. Although a teensy bit on the messy side to eat, the world-class flavours, presentation and the reasonable price tag had the judges weak at the knees.

Other Burger Joints We tried to get in the best of the best when it came to this challenge, but there are three other restaurants which are known for their burgers.

Their non-inclusion is, well, not deliberate. But we thought we should give them a mention anyway.

French Grill The Hanoi Social Club Tet Décor Café The Press Club

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The Burgers

Kafe Style Beef Burger

Beef and Bone Marrow Burger

The Kafe VND100,000

Moose & Roo Smokehouse VND210,000++

Priced at a compelling VND100,000, the Kafe’s entrant was the cheapest of the range.

Keeping with the eatery’s quirky and inventive theme, the Kafe Burger offers up a 150g pork and beef patty served on a brioche bun with cheddar cheese, mayonnaise, romaine lettuce, tomato and onions. The burger also comes with a side of chunky English potato chips seasoned with tarragon and salt, all neatly organised on a trendy (obviously) butcher’s block.

Overall Verdict The brioche bun and the tarragon chips were the highlights of this meal, as was the quirky presentation. While the addition of pork seemed to keep the patty moist, some judges weren’t completely sold on the flavour. At VND100,000, however, this option presents a cheap feed in a hip location.

This ambitious newcomer has attracted a loyal following with its Beef and Bone Marrow Burger, crowned by regulars as one of the best burgers in the city. The 180g Australian top ground beef patty is prepared fresh every morning before being grilled and finished in the oven. Housed in a custommade sesame seed bun, the patty is topped with a helping of juicy onions — caramelised in-house for 10 hours — pickles, stringy bacon, cheddar cheese and a secret sauce.

The burger also comes with house made slaw and French fries.

Overall Verdict Talk about wow factor. This burger was an instant favourite for its overall taste and the high quality ingredients. Personal touches such as the secret sauce, air-dried stringy bacon and caramelised onions — all prepared in house — added flair and a unique finger licking taste that had the judges fighting over the leftovers. The deconstructed presentation also won votes for originality, as did the reasonable price. Some judges did question the addition of bone barrow but this was put down to personal taste.

Homemade Cheese and Bacon Burger

Ultimate Wagyu Beef Burger

El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse VND390,000++

Jackson’s Steakhouse VND355,000++

The Argentinian Steakhouse, which opened its second branch on Trang Tien last year, is now a favourite among Hanoi’s resident carnivores who like their meat imported and their bill with a shot of caramel vodka. It’s easy to see why. The 220g patty blends four cuts of prime beef into one exquisite and juicy patty, is flamegrilled and topped with lettuce, tomato, ketchup and mayonnaise.

The burger is also accompanied by a generous serving of fat chips and salad splashed with delicious vinaigrette dressing.

Overall Verdict We won’t lie. Our expectations were high for El Gaucho. And with the poise and flair of an Argentinian tango, it delivered.

The four-cut patty was an instant winner with the judges. So if you’re picky about your meat, and splurging US$20 doesn’t matter to you, then this is probably the place for you. The panel was also impressed with the presentation and the tasty sides, which also included a welcome basket of wood-fired bread, garlic confit, salsa ciolla and garlic butter.

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An Aussie touch shines through in the Ultimate Wagyu Beef Burger — the only burger in the challenge to come with a thick slice of beetroot. The sesame seed bun is baked fresh daily at the in-house bakery, before being buttered and tossed on the grill to make it nice and toasty. The beef is 180g of Australian Wagyu and New Zealand sirloin ground into a juicy patty that is grilled and stacked with Swiss Emmental cheese (or blue cheese, if you so desire), crispy bacon and a runny fried egg. It’s served with a side of fat

chips sprinkled with salt, pepper and a pinch of chilli flakes.

Overall Verdict This burger was an all-round performer, but didn’t quite hit the same notes as others in its price range. The meat patty rated highly with the judges as did the refreshingly light taste. A buttered and well-toasted bun and the offerings of four different kinds of mustard were also winners.

The Final Verdict The Top 3

Ete Burger Ete Bar VND145,000 Ete’s tasty food, quirky cocktails and no-frills approach to dining make it one of the most popular spots south of West Lake. We sampled the mediumsized Ete Burger, which was furnished with a 180g pan-fried patty layered with wholegrain mustard, onions, garlic, cheddar cheese, pickles, tomato and cos lettuce. Sides include garden salad and chunky potato chips tossed with an aromatic blend of garlic, thyme and rosemary.

Overall Verdict Hands down the best chips of the challenge and the patty, cooked in a flaming hot pan, came with a nice darkened crust.

The addition of a runny fried egg that soaked the patty with a delicious warm yolk when you bit into it was also well received by the judges. With that price tag, this burger presented the best value option overall.

The best burger is awarded to D ON ’ S B ISTRO for their

S T . H ELEN ’ S W ASHINGTON S TATE P RIME B EEF B ERGER .

Also in the top 3 are:

Category Awards B EST B UN

The Republic

B EST F RIES Ete

B EST P ATTY El Gaucho

— E L G AUCHO for their H OMEMADE C HEESE AND B ACON B URGER

B EST P RESENTATION

— M OOSE & R OO S MOKEHOUSE for their

Moose & Roo Smokehouse

B EEF

B ONE M ARROW B URGER

AND

Don’s Bistro

B EST S AUCE

B EST T RIMMINGS Moose & Roo Smokehouse

B EST V ALUE Ete

Food & drink MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Au Lac Do Brazil

When Au Lac Do first opened, they saw a gap in the barbecued meat market. Our undercover reporter checks them out to see if eight years later, they’re still hitting the spot. Photos by Julie Vola

I

n Vietnam, a country famed for its roaring street food scene, your options for barbequed meat are pretty endless.

Drive down any main street and you’re bound to see a lady fanning meat over white hot charcoals, or groups huddled around Vietnam’s famed ‘street barbecues’ cooking pork ribs and strips of sweet potato.

But sometimes, and particularly during the winter months, it’s nice to trade the little blue stools for a padded chair, and the ambiguous looking meat for recognisable New Zealand sirloin.

Au Lac Do Brazil may not be a new entry to Hanoi’s meat market, but eight years after opening the only churrascaria in the capital, diners are still attracted to it for its lively atmosphere, festive dining halls and authentic churrasco experience.

For those who have no idea, churrascaria is the Brazilian word for a restaurant that typically serves grilled meat; typically many different variations of meat, and typically all-you-can-eat. After the meat is grilled on a churrasquierras (barbecue), it is served

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espeto corrido style; that is, brought to your table on a giant skewer by a passador (waiter) and sliced directly onto your plate. Pretty exciting stuff.

Down on Cao Ba Quat, Au Lac Do does pretty much that. The whole operation is housed in a giant yellow and green, double-storey restaurant with Brazilian paraphernalia as far as the eye can see. Some would call it tacky. I call it fun.

The real bread and butter of this operation is the buffet, which is offered in a pared back option or the full churrasco for VND650,000 per person. This entitles you to the whole gamut of salads and vegetables and a suite of barbecued meats, including Calabrian sausage, Brazilian picanha steak, leg of lamb, chicken wings, cupim beef shoulder, pork ribs and barbecued shrimp wrapped in bacon.

A Fine Cut We began with a plate of tasty garden salad drizzled with a light dressing, some garlic bread and a strong caipirinha (VND105,000) — the Brazilian national drink incorporating

rum, fresh lime, raw sugar and cachaca.

Within minutes, a smiling waiter appeared at our table with the first course — a giant skewer of sizzling pichana steaks. With a sharp blade, he proceeded to shear generous slabs onto our plates, filling our nostrils with the rich aroma of barbecued steak.

Each mouthful was succulent and carried an extremely rich, smoky flavour that only hours of roasting can achieve.

Next was the beef shoulder, carefully wood-fired for four hours before being carried straight from the grill to our plates.

The meat was nicely well done without being dry, while the accompanying chimichurri sauce helped to balance the beef’s rich, salty flavours.

The lamb that followed had a similarly rich taste. Having been slow-cooked for hours, it had developed a beautifully golden crust, while the slightly pink flesh on the inside carried the delicious flavours of wood-fire and rosemary.

Speed Fest In the following 10 minutes, our attentive

THE VERDICT

11

FOOD

12

SERVICE

10 DÉCOR

passadors served us chicken wings, marinated pork ribs, Brazilian calabrian sausage and succulent prawns wrapped in crisp, salty bacon. After a few minutes of reprieve we succumbed to a final serving of barbecued pineapple, dished up warm with a delicious caramelised crust, before tucking into cups of light and fluffy passion fruit mousse.

The atmosphere was somewhat lacking on the day we arrived, but we had missed the lunchtime rush so the crowd had begun to wane. This perhaps had the benefit of ensuring that the staff weren’t as run off their feet and were able to dish out the meat even faster (in fact, faster than we could eat it).

Yes, the street barbeque will always be cheaper and perhaps livelier (I mean, what can substitute for the thrill of passing motorbikes splashing rainwater onto your sizzling steak?). But if you’re after quality meat and value in a fun setting, Au Lac Do provides a compelling way to spice up your Friday night.

Au Lac Do Brazil is at 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food & drink

STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Bun Thang Although it’s a dish traditionally eaten at Tet, bun thang is now available year round. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Julie Vola

A

s the Vietnamese New Year gets close, people rush to the market to stock up on traditional food for Tet. Among the signature dishes prepared in Hanoi are chung cake or banh chung, Vietnamese-style ham or gio cha, sticky rice, chicken, dried bamboo shoots and bun thang, which is vermicelli noodle soup with chicken, pork and egg.

In the past, bun thang was prepared on the fourth day of Tet, when Hanoians ate a meal to see off their ancestors. A bit like the concept behind paella or bubble and squeak, the ingredients for the soup are all the leftovers — anything from ham, chicken and shrimp to pork and vegetables. The sweet and earthy taste of bun thang makes it a cannot-do-without dish for Hanoians, a light culinary relief after days of eating heavy food.

Yet, despite being supposedly thrown together, making bun thang is a painstaking process requiring no less than a dozen ingredients, including chicken meat, pig

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bones and meat, eggs, dried shrimp, lean pork paste, shrimp paste, onion, mushroom, belostomatidae essence (the essence of the giant water beetle) and herbs.

“There are a number of qualities that make up a delicious bowl of bun thang,” explains Nguyen Phuong Hai, the well-known chef who has made it his raison d’etre to rediscover the ‘lost’ dishes of traditional Vietnamese cuisine. “The broth must be clear, and it should reflect purity. The taste is both light and sweet, thanks to the boiled chicken, pig bone and shrimp. The toppings must be thinly sliced, matchstick-sized, then perfectly placed side by side. This makes a bowl of bun thang look visually stunning.”

Not Just for Tet These days, people have less time on their hands. So instead of spending hours preparing a noodle soup, people head for eateries on the street. That explains why signature Tet dishes like bun thang are available every day.

The way the soup is prepared has also been

simplified — both in terms of the ingredients and the cooking process.

If you want to treat yourself, bun thang can be found on Hang Hanh, Cau Go, Ha Hoi and Hang Hom. One of the best eateries in town, however, is at 33 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem.

The name of the dish, bun thang, is comprised of ‘bun’ and ‘thang’. ‘Bun’ means noodles while ‘thang’ is translated literally as ladder. However, according to Ms. Ly, the owner of the eatery on Hang Hom, ‘thang’ also comes from the word for a ‘pack’ of northern medicinal herbs, or thang thuoc bac.

“Bun thang got its name because it is made up of a lot of ingredients, a bit like a pack of thuoc bac,” she explains. “It is also good for the health and makes you feel fantastic after eating a bowl of it.

“The broth, the soul of the dish, has a distinct sweet and light taste. It requires the cook to stay near the boiling pot to remove all the impurities created during the cooking process. The result is a

clear, sweet broth that does not have the unpleasant odour of pig bones.

“But the real secret in the broth lies in the shrimp paste. The paste is notorious for its awful smell. However, it is the ingredient that stimulates the taste of the dish. As the shrimp paste is put into the broth while boiling, it is fully cooked and the smell is erased. It is this that differentiates bun thang from other types of noodle soup.”

After placing the noodles into the bowl, Ms. Ly carefully arranges the toppings, using strips of egg, shredded white chicken, mushrooms, sliced salted radish and fluffy shredded sea shrimp. Some greens — coriander and parsley — are added after pouring the boiling hot broth into the bowl.

“To me, herbs like coriander and mushroom are very important,” says Ms. Ly. “They create a feeling of relief, and

accentuate the earthy taste of the soup.

“But according to the traditional recipe, both the broth and the toppings alone are not enough to conjure up the right taste of bun thang. Belostomatidae essence, which is not easy to find nowadays, is another ingredient used to spice up the soup.”

The bun thang eatery is located at 33 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, and opens from early until late at night. A bowl costs VND25,000 to VND30,000

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Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

Vesper Location is not everything, but sometimes, food is. Our undercover food reviewer heads to the recently refurbished yet slightly out-of-the-way Vesper Gourmet Lounge, and discovers a restaurant working at its very best. Photos by Glen Riley

I

f dining out is a voyage, then Vesper whisks you around the globe. Their audacious blend of Japanese, Spanish, Mexican, Italian, German, French and American cuisine shouldn’t work, yet my late-night supper at Vesper was one of the finest meals I’ve enjoyed in years.

From service to decor to food (my god, the food...), the experience was a tour de force.

With its dark wood colour-scheme, sinuous bar top, chill soundtrack and communal tables, the lounge struck the ideal note of sociability and relaxation, a German tavern for 21st-century sophisticates. With a few ironic touches added in for measure.

Awaiting my date at the bar, I admired the liquor selection, especially the Scotches.

Whimsically, I sampled a Cappuccino shooter (VND110,000), a gorgeous, layered concoction of cinnamon-dashed cream, Bailey’s and Kahlua. Drunk in one long pull,

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the swirl of flavours flood the mouth, each taste peaking before blending harmoniously.

I’d return for that alone.

Exploring the World My date arrived; servers ushered us behind a wood-and-glass partition into the cosily intimate dining room. The crimson stuffed chairs sit one comfortably, yet without requiring struggle to reach the table.

Ordering required detailed exploration of Vesper’s imaginative menu. For maximum variety, we seized upon on a daily special that should be a regular offering, the mixed grill for two (VND550,000). For sides, we chose a small rigatoni alla Buttera (VND110,000) and spinach spaetzle (VND90,000). To drink, we selected glasses of house red — the deep, velvety Mas Petit garnatxa — and house white, the Torresella pinot grigio (VND150,000 each). It was mellow and refreshingly fruity.

One Bite at a Time One test of a menu is that most combinations of dishes should work. Vesper aced it.

Everything fit in a symphony of flavours.

The mixed grill crowned the meal, with two servings apiece of Wagyu strip steak, Australian tenderloin, chicken-breast skewers, lamb chops and German sausages piled on a wooden board. Served with twin cylinders of chilled Cafe de Paris, garnished with rosemary, the meats displayed Vesper’s skill in picking the best from around the world.

Every piece of meat was flavourful, juicy, grilled to perfection. The dense taste and texture of the Wagyu and the soft, gentle tenderloin (both dry-aged, like all of Vesper’s steaks) demonstrated the vast range that good red beef can have. The touch of red pepper on the chicken underscored its delicacy, and the lamb was a mouth-watering revelation.

The spinach spaetzle, sprinkled with crispy shallots, seduced my tastebuds with

THE VERDICT

15 FOOD

15

SERVICE its whirl of cream and tangy cheese. The rigatoni, served with peas and hearty chunks of Italian sausage, brought back my visits to Italy — the al dente pasta, the sauce alive with sweet, acidic tomato and fresh herbs.

We concluded with apple strudel in filo dough, a clever twist on a classic dessert.

The divine vanilla sauce and hand-whipped cream provided a cool backdrop to the crispy dough and hot, spiced apples.

The simple ceramic bowls and minimalist plating focused attention on the food itself.

Leading the Way Speaking as a former waiter, Vesper’s service staff excels at providing the customer (me, in this case) with exactly what they want.

Chatty and engaged while I waited for my date, friendly, full of helpful suggestions, swift and unobtrusive, their actions set a standard for other restaurants to follow.

The restaurant manager led by example; he strolled from table to table, laughing, suggesting, taking pictures with customers, passing out banana daiquiri samples, treating everyone like an honoured guest.

From early till late, whatever cuisine you prefer, whatever your tastes, Vesper presents it with a warm smile and a comfy seat.

Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to midnight, Vesper is located in the Landmark Building, 5B, Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City

13 DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food & drink STREET SNACKER

HCMC

Street Sushi

With sushi stalls popping up all over town, Simon Stanley heads to Saigon’s seafood hub in search of the original kerbside Japanese experience. Photos by Glen Riley

“I

rasshaimase!” comes the welcoming call of the staff at District 4’s Sushi Ko as we arrive.

Tucked among Vinh Khanh Street’s endless strip of pavement-based seafood joints, it’s an easy one to miss — and we did… twice.

But the place is buzzing. Vietnamese, Japanese and western faces fill the tiny tables. Over everyone’s heads a food counter swarms with uniformed waiting staff and nimble-fingered sushi chefs.

Browsing the menu (with pictures and English translations), we find 100 percent authentic Japanese cuisine, covering countless sushi styles along with grilled meat/veg skewers, tempura and beef hot pots. With its canvas roof, the cracked pavement underfoot and a steady stream

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of peanut vendors rattling their wares over our shoulders, we’re still very much in Vietnamese dining mode. It’s a welcome change to the standard Japanese approach.

Taking It To The Streets We find ourselves sat next to Taku Haruyoshi, a Japanese teacher living in Saigon since 1997. “Before Sushi Ko,” he explains, “I would always eat in the restaurants on Le Thanh Ton, but they are all indoors… too quiet, too formal. I prefer to eat outside like the Vietnamese… it is more relaxed.”

To say that Taku is a Sushi Ko regular is an understatement.

“I eat here every day,” he says. “The sushi is very cheap, and very delicious.”

Taku tells me that since opening in May

2013, the business has grown in popularity so much that a larger premises is currently under construction just a few doors away.

“Every day, more and more people are coming here,” he says. “Japanese, yes, but lots of Vietnamese too.”

Despite an understandable apprehension, it seems that sushi is slowly weaving its way onto Saigon’s dinner tables. Behind me, three generations of a Vietnamese family huddle around an ornate spread of sashimi. The kids are popping the pods of the umibudo garnish, and grandma is anxiously nibbling a glossy slither of tuna as mum and dad look on. With so much fresh seafood on our doorstep, and Saigon’s taste for all things Nihon, it seems sushi represents an inevitable leap from traditional street food fare.

Formal Dining, Casual Setting I realise that accessibility is the key here.

Having perfected her craft in the kitchens of District 1’s Japanese enclave, Sushi Ko’s Vietnamese owner is bringing sushi to the people, with extremely affordable prices in a familiar, informal environment. The result is like a Vietnamese version of the Japanese izakaya, where diners can relax with friends over beers or sake and graze at their leisure.

With a paperback novel and a VND22,000 can of Sapporo, that’s exactly what Taku is doing tonight.

Having been prepared by hand, from scratch, our food soon starts to fill the table between us and we’re immediately struck by the beautiful presentation and generous portions. Each dish is displayed like a work of art.

It may be crude, but I often judge a Japanese kitchen on its mixed tempura bowl.

It’s easy to do yet difficult to do well. What I’m served here quickly puts Sushi Ko above many spots in town. The batter is perfect, as are the contents — light and flavoursome fish with an abundance of vegetables. Gyoza, edamame and char-grilled pork-wrapped okra accompany a beautiful selection of sushi, and our table is flooded with colour.

The quality of the fish comes through in the first bite — the lack of odour proves its freshness, and having been expertly sliced, this is a cut of salmon that I will go to bed dreaming of. Oh-so-tender… and then some.

With our eye-poppingly small bill I’m handed a loyalty card. Same time next week, Taku?

Open daily until 10pm, Sushi Ko is at 122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4, Ho Chi Minh City

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fashion

BRAND AMBASSADORS “What’s beer without the eye candy?” your creepy uncle maybe used to say.

Well the beer companies in Vietnam have obliged, with helpful ladies wandering table to table, offering you ice and generally acting as the sweetest billboards you’ve ever seen.

Well, these ladies don’t only dispense ice — here they get a bit freaky with a lager’s best friend.

Photos by Francis Xavier

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travel

TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

Cruising What do you do on New Year’s? It’s one of those annual questions.

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T

ake a 2,000-or-so passenger Italian cruise liner, base it out of Singapore and staff it with Asians. This is exactly what Costa have done with their ship, the Costa Victoria, and in doing so they are catering to an entirely new market — the biggest one in the world.

Cruises are not new to Southeast Asia.

For decades oversized boats from around the globe have called at the region’s biggest ports. But what is new is the clientele.

In the past it was almost exclusively older Europeans, North Americans and Australians making ports of call in this region. But with greater spending power, Asians are now joining in the fun. On the cruise I took over New Year’s, the make-up of the passengers was almost exclusively Asian. But more interesting was the agerange. It wasn’t just older people. Here everyone was holidaying with their families.

My cruise was a media trip — altogether there were 19 of us from Vietnam on the jaunt. We also came with our families. The deal was simple. We pay for our flights to Singapore, the place where we would both embark and disembark. Costa would do the rest.

It didn’t quite work out like that — everything was put together so quickly that there was a distinct lack of organisation. But there were so many highlights to our cruise, which called at Phuket, Langkawi and Penang before returning to Singapore, that our five days aboard this kitsch yet luxury

18-year-old liner was one to remember.

Even the constant repetition of Jingle Bells and Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer over the sound system, Costa’s homage to Christmas, embedded itself firmly in the experience.

We wondered if after New Year’s Eve they would change the mix tape. To our amusement, they didn’t.

Snapshots One of the best memories was the day in Phuket — we landed just off the coast from Patong Beach. I expected our eight hours onshore to bring me face to face with everything I dislike about holidaymaking in Thailand. It did.

Patong is Thailand’s answer to Bali’s Kuta.

Same concept, different countries — except the loud tourists here are Russians.

Yet with so little time to explore, there was a sense of adventure to our wonderings around the town, and our people-watching on the municipal beach. For a day, this place was perfect.

The next morning we woke at sunrise to the sweeping island views of Langkawi.

The weather that day was the best of our trip. With the clear blue sky above, the tropical land and seascape was out of a postcard. From the rainy, overcast weather that blighted the first day of the cruise, the journey was coming alive.

On New Year’s Day we docked at Georgetown, Penang. Few cities in Southeast Asia can match this former colonial outpost

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for its architecture, multi-cultural variety and street food. Returning here for the first time in 15 years, I was so entranced that I walked 20km back and forth across the city centre. After so much buffet food on the ship, I needed the exercise.

The crowning moment, though, was the night before — New Year’s Eve. When you don’t really know the people you’re spending time with, this night of celebration can act as the perfect occasion to build friendships and break barriers; we went wild. Even the kids with us joined in the celebrations, swapping coke for beer in their improvised drinking games.

Led by Costa’s entertainment staff, as 11.59 clicked into midnight, the ship erupted. Everyone — Filipino, Indonesian, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, Vietnamese — broke into song and dance.

Hugs with friends, hugs with strangers, champagne, dancing, singing, more hugs, more champagne. For a short moment all inhibitions were put aside.

It was electric.

For more information on the Costa Victoria’s cruises, go to costacruisesasia.com. There is presently a deal on a four-night cruise out of Shanghai departing in March. The cruise makes stops in Japan and South Korea. Full board accommodation starts at US$579 (VND12.2 million) per person

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travel TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

A Day in Penang Located on the Malaysian island of Penang, Georgetown is one of the most unique cities in Southeast Asia. Nick Ross goes on a whistle-stop trip to a city that was once a key part of the British Empire

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T

he ache in my head is saying to me, what am I doing here on New Year’s Day? I’ve only had a few hours sleep and the historic Malaysian city of Georgetown is deserted.

But as I walk alone into the section of the city known as Little India, I see a parade. No it’s not a parade. It’s an 8am-on-New-Year’sDay city walk, with brass band in tow — everyone wearing white T-shirts.

My heart and head lifts. If they can do an early morning on New Year’s Day, then so can I. But the thought is not enough for that ache to go away. So I dive into a nasi kandar joint and get a breakfast of roti telur — hybrid Malay paratha with egg and a lentil dipping curry on the side. I add to it a hot coffee with condensed milk. Oh so good. So damn good.

Penang and in particular its largest city,

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Georgetown, is known for its street food.

This simple yet moreish dish of fried bread and curry provides momentary relief. But as I eat I am shaking my head. What the hell are all these people doing up so early on New Year’s Day? Then again, what the hell am I doing up so early?

I’ve only got a few hours in this former colonial city. Once forming an axis of ports with Malacca and Singapore, an axis that eventually became British Malaya, it has somehow maintained its colonialera mystique. Yet, it’s not quite colonial — Georgetown has Indian sections, Malay sections and Chinese sections. And each ethnicity has placed its mark both architecturally and socially on the makeup of this city.

This is what Singapore looked and felt like

before the Lion City went into modernisation overdrive.

Street Food After a couple of hours I find myself in a little market in Chinatown and wander into a traditional food court selling Penang street food. Although I’m no longer hungry, I try some of the dishes. The curry mee with its coconut curry sauce and boiled clams — I normally hate clams — is to die for. So is the koay teow th’ng, the egg and rice noodle soup.

The tai lok mee, with its thick black, glutinous sauce, is less appealing.

I’ve been to Penang before, in 1999, on my way to Sumatra in Indonesia. I got bowled over by Georgetown’s charm even then. And as I wander down a road strangely titled Love Lane, I stop. I’ve recognised something.

This is where I stayed last time, I realise, as I look up at the row of partly restored Chinese shophouses. The memories start to flood back. An Israeli couple were staying in the same guesthouse — Israelis can’t get into Malaysia — but they were travelling on Brazilian passports. And then I remember the guesthouse manager and the most prevalent memory, the tandoori chicken we had in Little India. I’d never eaten chicken so good in my whole life. In Georgetown, it seems, everything comes back to food.

And history.

The Fort My time in Penang is almost up and I head to Fort Cornwallis, the original site of British imperialism. A walled city defended by cannon, it was first built by the British East

India Company in the late 18th century.

Representative of the British expansion into Malaysia, the fort was initially constructed after Britain took possession of Penang Island from the Sultan of Kedah in 1786. It has since been rebuilt… and rebuilt.

Inside the fort there’s not much to see beyond bunkers and walls, but some tourists are lining themselves up against statues of former British dignitaries. Others are hugging the cannon, taking tourist photos to send back to friends and relatives.

I try to find out who Cornwallis was, but there is no information. Later I discover he was the former governor-general of Bengal in India. But it doesn’t seem so important.

What is important is the symbolic connection between Asia and Europe. Without this connection, Georgetown wouldn’t be the city

it is today.

As I leave, passing the clock tower dedicated to Queen Victoria, I realise my head is no longer throbbing. It may be New Year’s Day, a time when I should be in bed, but my whistle-stop tour of Georgetown has been worth the headache and the lack of sleep.

This is a place with a little something for everyone.

Getting There Almost all the regional airlines operate flights to Penang out of Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. The best rates can be found with A IR A SIA and T IGER A IRWAYS .

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travel TRAVEL

DOMESTIC

In Search of the Super Cave

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Or, how Ed Weinberg went looking for Southeast Asia’s largest volcanic cave and got scraped up, sunburned, lost his lens cap and generally complained a lot

F

or anyone looking to get a jump on the tourists soon to flow to Southeast Asia’s largest volcanic cave system, I have some advice: wait till it’s paved.

While not super fun advice, I did stop taking directions at about the third felled tree bridge over a pit of thorn bushes we crossed.

At the end of our four-hour trek, I was slipping on these scary log bridges, crawling along at times, while the sandal-wearing rest of our party waited good-naturedly ahead. I can still feel the indignity of it all.

Okay, listen, if I have any advice, it’s this: don’t threaten to quit hiking, saying something along the lines of “I will actually fall and break my leg if I can’t rest soon!” when you’re a scant 500 metres from the end of the trail. Don’t be that guy. That guy gets advice like, “You should get married and have a son, and he can be adventurous like me.” That guy is old.

How I Got Suckered In In the days previous, the payoff-to-effort ratio was quite high. Navigate a bumpy road, navigator at the back; see a stupendous waterfall canyon, no one else around. I didn't remember too many hikes at Yosemite turning out like this.

My first venture into Dak Nong Province had been a day trip from nearby Buon Ma Thuot, the coffee capital of Vietnam.

“The volcanic cave system discovered in… Dak Nong is no joke. Officially announced on Dec. 26 of last year, the 25km-long cavern system was the result of reverse lava eruptions from millions-of-yearsold volcanoes… The longest of these caves, C7, is good for the longest in Southeast Asia”

How to Hike in Sandals I looked on a few hiking blogs (though what I was really looking for was a ‘How Do Asians Hike in Flip-Flops?’ post that I could crib from), but their advice doesn’t really apply here. Take smaller steps?

Always look where you’re stepping? My trail partners weren’t doing any of that.

Instead, they were stepping surefootedly on the rocks scattered all along the trail, trusting their feet, keeping their centres of balance while parting the thick vine overhang that occasionally had little hooked thorns running through. I was pinwheeling forward, looking for trees to support my steps, fighting with the vines after they’d already ensnared me.

I watched their techniques and tried to be mindful. I had been putting too much effort into making sure my footing was secure, and later in the hike I got a little wobbly. I convinced myself it was a mental thing. It worked for a while. Then I went back to my old habits, all the while cursing beneath my breath.

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Actually, call it a half-day trip — Dray Sap Falls is just 20km from downtown. Carrying a couple beers from the commissary we walked a paved 1.5km, occasionally having to navigate cracks. At the area that serves as the main viewpoint for the falls, we ignored the dilapidated gazebo for a closer-by cluster of boulders. Perched on sharp-angled rocks, drinking our 333s, my friend Hien told me not to dangle my legs — there could be snakes lurking.

That was about all the danger that I was prepared for when I met up with Giang. A former barman at Dalat’s V Café, Giang was happy to practise his English and show a tourist around his former stomping grounds.

He even had a friend, who had another friend, who knew the caves; all the local people do, that’s where they go to hunt bats.

The first day, Giang, his brother and his friend’s brother took me to Dray Nur — the “much nicer waterfall” of the two. He was right, it was. In the non-rainy season, the water falls in sheets and cascades over a canyon rim some 200 metres in length. In the rainy season, almost every ledge of the rock face is overrun by the flow.

When I suggested hiking past the viewpoint, Giang perked up, giving me that “oh, you have a lot of energy!” type compliment that all us western fatties should

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be used to. Nevertheless, I probably blushed a little. I’m not like all those other lazy sightseers, am I?

The Last Frontier “The caves are the last undiscovered continent,” Salzburg University’s Professor Edgar Dachs said about a cave complex in Germany that dwarfs the one scientists have found in Dak Nong. “You can discover new unexplored territory here like Christopher Columbus.”

Though they’re not quite the Riesending caves (German for ‘giant thing’), the volcanic cave system discovered in Krong No District of Dak Nong is no joke. Officially announced on Dec. 26 of last year, the 25km-long cavern system was the result of reverse lava eruptions from millions-of-years-old volcanoes whose existence was previously unknown.

The longest of these caves, C7, is 1,066.5 metres long, good for the longest in Southeast Asia. The second longest cave in the system, C3, weighs in at 594.4 metres, second longest in Southeast Asia. With the reputation Son Doong has gained tourismwise, the as-yet-unsnappily-named cave complex figures to put one of Vietnam’s poorest provinces on the tourism map.

“The floor of C7 is very beautiful, with

many patterns, and looks like the surface of a lava flow. There are many stalactites and different branches in the cave,” said Dr. Tsutomu Honda, part of the Japan Caving Association team that participated in the seven years of research needed to get to this point.

So of course I was going to go.

Trust Fund for Forests, an NGO working in the area, didn’t get back to me. Neither did the General Department of Geology and Minerals of Vietnam. So it was down to Giang’s friend-of-a-friend, who told us he’d been to “the big cave” once a year for as long as he could remember.

If I’d read the internet literature a little more closely — which describes Dr. Honda spelunking down from the roof of a cavern large enough to contain trees — I would have known to bring more than tennis shoes.

Shambling Toward Enlightenment The start of the day was promising enough.

We took the right forking road after the Dray Sap entrance, down 6km of a country road that had water buffalo grazing, turning right onto a dirt road. It was bumpy on the back of Giang’s bike, but not too bumpy. We parked, and 300 metres into a thin-leafed forest found our first cave.

Only Giang would accompany me further

than the first stretch — the others had trouble breathing (or were scared of ghosts).

So I felt well and good, prowling the cave in search of the perfect stalactite picture.

We saw a big spider. I had a brief daydream of finding some cave drawings, which the scientists had somehow missed and everyone else was too scared to discover! I saw another spider, and somehow missed three bats flying past my head.

We reached a dead end, then joined the others and headed back to the bikes. We headed further up the road.

You already know about the damn fourhour hike — in which I lost my lens cap (a rite of passage, I’m told), said something along the lines of “it wouldn’t matter if I’d have known we’d be hiking this much — when people in the US go hiking through a jungle like this, they take machetes!” and cried on the inside.

There were some clearings, complete with piled stone walls running alongside, which Giang told me were signs we were on track.

And that’s when I stopped complaining... for like a minute, I think. The people who’d been coming here all these years didn’t want clear trails, and letting the trail go wild was their way of preserving it.

Giang hung back with me, making bird calls when we needed fresh direction. At

one point, while I fumbled with the 1.5-litre bottle of water hanging from my belt (the other guys had one bottle to split between them), Giang crawled the length of an upended tree toward some wild orchids. He took all five of rare plants, carrying them in front of him, and somehow still managed to get less tangled than I did.

We made steady progress until one point, a seeming dead end into an impenetrable thicket. We spent 20 minutes trying different approaches, all while those damn bird songs echoed ahead of us. If we could have actually turned into birds our problems would have been solved, but we could only make impotent little ‘oooh-oooh’ sounds. After Giang asked for more specific instructions, we both slapped our foreheads — the answer was the same as the answer to everything else, just go through.

Fast-forward past the slipping on logs, the various stages of pleading, and the most guttural adding of the word lam onto the question “Anh met?” that you’ve ever heard, and we made it out. Now we were all smiling, even though we’d completely missed the point of our trek.

On the way back to the main road, we stopped again. The guys waved me back into the forest, where there was another cave.

How far? “50 met.” Warily, I headed back in.

And there, just 50m from the roadside, was a little pothole of a cave, sunk into the forest floor. Two of the guys had squeezed their way in, and were throwing rocks into the water that filled the inside.

I ignored my aching muscles and slid in beside them. There were perfect, bluish stalactites, hanging daintily from the low roof, 5cm long; a golden light illuminating the far end of the cave, some 10 metres away.

It wasn’t the longest cave in Southeast Asia, but it was wondrous enough.

Getting There My VietJet flight to Buon Ma Thuot was super cheap — VND1.2 million roundtrip all told. From Buon Ma Thuot, rent a bike or take a VND30,000 bus to Cu Jut, which is the crossroads to the Dray Sap falls, and the warren of caves awaiting someone who is definitely not me.

On the Dak Lak Province side, Dray Nur awaits — although Giang showed me a sneaky break in the chain link blocking the end of the crumbling bridge you’ll encounter on your way to Dray Sap. Mind the razor wire.

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travel

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travel

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$$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel. com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women.

Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the

hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.

The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396 hanoi.hgi.com With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500 hanoi.hilton.com Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental. com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake.

Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi

is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown.

In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi. com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment.

Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.

The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique.

Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan

travel

Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt.

The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.

The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

$$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

REX HOTEL

EQUATORIAL

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2185

rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now five-star property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

(08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

NORFOLK HOTEL

ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International

HCMC - MID-RANGE $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC - BUDGET

EMM HOTEL

DUC VUONG HOTEL

157 Pasteur, Q3 A sleek, contemporary threestar hotel that mixes vintage appeal and modern chic thanks to a subdued palette of white and grey around two ‘pop’ colours: azalea pink and green hot pepper. Part of the Thien Minh Group that includes Victoria Hotels and Buffalo Tours.

$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - DELUXE CONTINENTAL

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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travel HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com

CUA DAI

$ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com

Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.

THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre– programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT AND SPA Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510) 392 7040 victoriahotels.asia

HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 354 5105 domainedetamhai.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 391 4555 life-resorts.com

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/ lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway.

And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

$ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/ destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

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JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view.

Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses.com/resorts/ ninh-van-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 382 0999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn

PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727 ninhchubay.com Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 374 3777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic

Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine.com

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222 princessannam.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY

$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com

PEPPER HOUSE

$ Tel: 01678 731560 pepperhouse-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains.

Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT

$$ Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5999 phongnhalakehouse.com

SAIGON - PHONG NHA

$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo. com.vn

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged.

Discount rates during rainy season.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: (077) 399 5895 centarahotelsresorts.com

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai

Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia

VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach.

Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao

travel THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include a 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.

The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful.

BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 exotravel.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours.

Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/

vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures.

With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for.

Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977 kien@travelsense.asia A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING SERVICE 12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh, District 1, HCMC Call center: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com info.en@chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best prices and reliable service.

If you are looking for great local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.

It has been the #1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.

EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotravel.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

GINKGO VOYAGE 1st Floor, 130 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 3914 3344 ginkgovoyage.com Offers a full range of quality travel services to both domestic and international travellers, including private and customized tours, small group tours, hotels bookings as well as corporate travel / MICE solutions in Vietnam and further. Email info@ ginkgovoyage.com for info.

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure.

com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead the way.

TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659 backofthebiketours.com Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience.

BEENINASIA.COM www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours.

Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate

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COFFEE CUP // RECALLING HANOI // TOP EATS // FOOD PROMOS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

hanoi

business

BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS BUSINESS GROUPS ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

CORPORATE SERVICES ENDO 79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manu-

facturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Hanoi Tel: 04 3946 0435 www.bishanoi.com The British International School (BIS) Hanoi, is a selective, independent, co-educational day school. It provides a British style education for an international student body operating from a modern purpose-built campus in the vibrant and cultured city of Hanoi. The National Curriculum for England, International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE) and Advanced Level (A Level) are taught to English speaking students from Pre-School to Year 13. The International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma will, pending IB authorization, be offered from 2016 onwards.

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system.

All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN HANOI 3rd floor, Tower A, Keangnam Landmark, DinhNghe, Me Tri. Tel: 0965 588888 etonhouse.edu.vn Thanks to a unique curriculum used in over 100 schools, a stimulating and motivating environment, and a child-centred approach, children at Eton House make rapid progress and achieve their maximum potential.

Classes offeredfor students aged 18 months to 6 years and there isan ‘Open Door’ Policy at all times.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS) 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international education for students from Primary up to University Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers.

Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC

Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri New Urban, Tu Liem District, Tel: +84 4 3794 0209

APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and costeffective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 1460 rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

leading language centres.

142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. For more information email Vietnam@ santaferelo.com.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085

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hanoi

COFFEE CUP THE ANNAM CAFÉ

W

hen you enter the bottom floor of the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, you may notice something different. No, I’m not referring to the sales executives promoting half-off gym memberships or the abundance of burly winter coats.

Rather, I am referring to the brand new Annam Café. The Annam Gourmet grocery store that was once in its place has shifted across the alley, replaced with a spanking new café complete with a working kitchen upstairs, a barista station and plenty of seating downstairs.

The new café presents itself as a trendy, deli-style alternative to the Highlands branch directly opposite. For one, the décor is bright and fresh — the floors are layered with checkered black and white tiles, the shelves are stocked with imported gourmet goods (including gluten-free and organic produce), and the cafeteria-style furniture provides an eyecatching temptation for weary shoppers.

The menus are presented on trendy

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wooden butcher’s blocks, promising the allure of antipasto platters heaped with cured meats, a wide range of foreign cheeses and light lunch options. For VND170,000 you can tuck into an Italian panini filled with sun-dried tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, Parma ham, olive oil and basil leaves. Or for those seeking heartier fare, you may be tempted by the café’s beef lasagna (VND180,000) or the smoked salmon salad (VND185,000).

If your budget is tight, head over to the deli fridges attached to the barista station and feast your eyes on a colourful selection of desserts, sourced directly from the city’s top patisseries and bakeries and ready to accompany your afternoon coffee. I particularly recommend ditching the sugar sachet for a Top Chef vanilla macaron (VND15,000) if you’re craving something sweet.

A Break from the Norm Your latte doesn’t exactly arrive in your standard, run-of-the-mill coffee mug,

either. Instead, we were presented with deconstructed lattes artfully poured into in chic Bodum glasses. A bowl of madeleines, a shot of water and sugar cubes accompany the coffee on a sleek timber tray, adding a nice a personal touch.

The coffee is brewed to high standards, as you’d expect from a gourmet deli, and the lattes, while a little bit pricey at VND70,000, are worth the money if you have time to stay and soak up the venue’s cool vibe and tasty gourmet treats.

The lack of an outside space is a disadvantage because sometimes you don’t want to have your coffee inside a busy shopping mall. But that aside, this may be the ideal place for you to drop your shopping bags, put your feet up and tuck into some cheese from the Tyrolean Alps. — David Mann Annam Café is at Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

hanoi atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

FRASER SUITES HANOI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 8877 Located in the West Lake area, Fraser Suites Hanoi consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four bedrooms, which meet any lifestyle. With a calming and warm interior feel, each apartment features all the latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides peace of mind.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central location.

SPORTS GARMENTS SCORE-TECH 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 01203 802832 A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a design team from Barcelona, Score-Tech controls the whole production process from producing fabrics and sewing to printing. Big and small orders of garments produced for all sporting needs.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

old quarter

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

BARS & CLUBS CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01679 647254 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi.

The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3292 7614 8pm to late

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor.

Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA BOMBA LATINA

LATIN BAR 46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0917 245155

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL RESTOBAR 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2104 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104

MOJITO BAR

CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR 19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/mojito.bar. lounge Decked out in wooden panelling and bare brick, this tastefully designed watering whole in the Old Quarter is known for its prize-winning bartender and excellent cocktails

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu.

SPY BAR

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802

TEMPLE BAR

NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6675 7908

TET BAR

LATE-NIGHT BAR 2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3050

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight

CAFES JOMA

INTERNATIONAL CAFE 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem joma.biz Housed in a two-storey converted, colonial-era villa, the concept of the third Joma is the same as at its two other cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter, and a great selection of sandwiches, bagels, salads, cakes, ice-cream and tea.

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma

has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

(04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade

juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOO SKATESHOP

SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com The downtown store of this well-known chic boutique.

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. Offers both ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 135

RECALLING HANOI PART 10

L

andscape is entangled with history and people’s lives. No matter how young we are or what social position we have, we all have stories to tell.

The book I am working on, Recalling Hanoi, is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry weaved out of portraits, people’s stories

and the urban landscape that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell me about a place in Hanoi that holds memories. It can be about anything — a personal story intertwined with history; a great event; everyday little stories that our lives are made of. These stories, along with the photographs of the storyteller and the

location provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait of this city through its collective memory.

The hope is that the audience will connect to other people’s lives and also to their own memories in an attempt to understand this beautiful city.

Ly Pham A Visit for Lunar New Year Location: Room 141, House N1, Alley 120, Hoang Quoc Viet My family used to live in a khu tap the — a block of flats built by the government after the American war. When I was a kid, I went to a private kindergarten class in the khu tap the run by a retired woman named Duyen. My family moved away in 2000 and I didn’t come back there for 10 years, during Tet 2010.

When I came to visit, my teacher still remembered me and treated me like before.

I have seen so many changes in the place I’m living at the moment: every day I hear the noise of construction. Yet when I came back to my old home, I felt peaceful. When I stood on the balcony of my teacher’s house, all my memories of the past came back.

She told me what I was like. When I first studied there, I thought her house was my house. I wanted everyone to serve me like I

was the boss, but they didn’t do that and I cried. She came to me and talked in a very gentle way.

“This is my house,” she told me. “What’s wrong with you? Why don’t you tell me?”

She calmed me down. Then I looked at her and said: “I thought it was my house. Sorry.”

She changed me a lot, and will always be my teacher.

hanoi

BY JULIE VOLA

Hoang Thi Phuong The Grateful Student Location: Hang Bot (now Ton Duc Thang) I was cycling on Hang Bot (now renamed Ton Duc Thang) on an afternoon during Tet, when I heard someone calling my name. I pulled over.

“Hi Madam! I wish you a very Happy New Year!”

It was an old student I had taught two or three years ago in an interpretation class at the Foreign Trade University.

That class only had about 20 students. I thanked him, and wished him a Happy New Year, too. He carried on talking cheerfully and confessed that he realised how bad a student he used to be. Here is the last thing he said to me.

“You know what? Your classes were really helpful for me. I have been able to take a lot of advantages from them. I’ve

never forgotten any of your classes from my university years.”

That’s weird. I remember him clearly.

He was the one sleeping all the time.

This is the 10th excerpt from Julie Vola’s work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is presently being serialised in Word. For more information email juls.vola@gmail.com

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 137

hanoi

TOP EATS BINIOU

T

here was a touch of poetic irony on the day we headed to Hanoi’s first authentic French creperie.

The weather was cold, the skies were grey and it was pouring with rain.

While not exactly the ideal conditions for zipping around town on a scooter, it gave us an appreciation for why the people of Brittany, an area renowned for its bitterly overcast weather, first invented the crepe.

“It is a bit of a running joke among people from Brittany,” laughs Raphael Lemay, co-founder of Hanoi’s first Brittany-inspired crepe house. After visiting Hanoi with middle-school friend and co-owner Ugo Marangoni, the pair returned to Brittany with the goal to one day come back and establish the city’s first authentic creperie.

“When we came here to visit my uncle four years ago, there were crepes and lots of French people, but no authentic crepes like the ones in Brittany,” says Ugo. “Brittany crepes are renowned all over France.”

The pair went back and immediately signed up to their local crepe school with the sole idea of bringing authentic crepes to Hanoi.

All in the Flour Fast-forward four years and that dream is now a reality, with the pair folding crepes from a stylish townhouse in the alleyway between Au Co Street and the Intercontinental Hotel. The townhouse is handsomely furnished with old prints, rustic wooden benches and communal tables for large groups. The overall feel is rustic, warm and inviting. It’s ideal for plonking yourself

138 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Julie Vola

down, loosening your belt buckle and feasting on a plate of battered deliciousness.

“Traditionally in Brittany, crepes are enjoyed with your family at a long table and with a mug of locally-made cider,” says Raphael. “We wanted to give the local French people a taste of home and for everyone else, give them the authentic experience of eating crepes — Brittany style.”

So, what is the key to making a good crepe?

“In short, the flour. We use traditional buckwheat flour like they do in Brittany — otherwise how can you say it’s authentic?” says Ugo. Buckwheat, or ‘black wheat’ may not be everyone’s taste, but the pair say its smoky, peasant flavour is best enjoyed with savoury fillings, whereas plain flour (which is also available) is best paired with dessert crepes.

On the Hotplate In the open kitchen, Raphael treats us to a live demonstration. First, a thin layer of batter is swirled around a bilig hotplate — the chef makes sure the batter is evenly spread. Then, with an artful flick of the wrist, the paper-thin crepe is flipped and layered with generous helpings of smoked salmon and house-prepared leek, the ingredients of the Nordique (VND130,000).

The Bergère crepe (VND140,000), a house speciality, is generously stuffed with special goat’s cheese and topped with walnuts, lettuce leaves and swirls of honey. A third, the Forestière (VND120,000), is layered with mushrooms, Emmental cheese and ham.

Each mouthful is rich, hearty and flavourful. The smoky buckwheat taste

instantly elevates the flavours of the smoked salmon and leek, while the rich goat’s cheese and combines perfectly with sweetness of the honey and the pleasant crunchiness of the walnuts. The classic combination of ham and cheese melts through the palette with pleasant hints of mushroom. Each bite, of course is interspersed with a gulp of delicious brut (dry) apple cider (VND60,000 per glass or VND280,000 per bottle), specially imported from Brittany and perfect for cleansing the palette with a nice alcoholic kick.

After clearing our plates, Ugo presents us with the Bounty (VND100,000), a plain-flour crepe topped with delicious concoction of chocolate sauce, coconut ice cream and Chantilly. But the real show stopper is the Flambèes. After resting the plate on the table, Ugo quickly sets it alight, infusing the crepe with poached apples and the rich alcoholic taste of Calvados, a strong apple brandy.

The terrace buzzes with a mix of French families and expat couples. Previously the best kept secret of the Francophone community, it appears that Biniou has now earned a place in the hearts of a wide cross section of expats, as well as some curious local diners.

“Initially it started as just the French community coming to eat,” says Ugo. “But then we started getting a lot of Japanese customers and now there’s a broad range.

The Vietnamese customers really surprised us — mainly because they kept trying to put chilli sauce on their crepes!” — David Mann Biniou is at 14 Ngach Ho Ham Long, Ngo 1 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi

hanoi move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards.

Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

THREE TREES

JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

CRAFTS & FURNITURE MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards.

Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm A slither of a joint serving up the same fare that the lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm

GREEN TANGERINE

FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639 10am to midnight

LITTLE INDIA

INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1859

littleindianhn@gmail.com

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery.

thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner.

Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

THE MOOSE AND ROO

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.

Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers.

Clever changing imagery on the walls.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.

LITTLE HANOI

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 8333 7.30am to 11pm

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout.

Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com

THE KAFE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat. Features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580

TANDOOR

PAN-INDIAN 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine.

Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAFÉ

FITNESS & YOGA STUDIO FIVE

YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515 http://studio5.vn facebook.com/yogastudio5 6am to 8pm An international and professional Yoga Studio providing more than 20 different yoga styles such as: Hatha Yoga, Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga, Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with infrared heater), Power Yoga and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes per day. Bring harmony back into your life — Studio Five is the perfect place to reconnect your mind with your body.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR BACCHUS CORNER

WINE RETAILER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253

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hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)

hoan kiem

THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi.com

L’ESPACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT

PARIS DELI

Bà i

Triệu

Hàng

Hu ế

Phan

Bà

Chu Trin h

Sứ

Q uá n Sứ

Đinh Ti ên H o à n g

Hưng

Phùng

Hà n g G à

Hàng Điếu

Hưng Phùng

Quán Nguy ễn Du

Trần Hưn gĐ ạo

Lê Văn H u ư

CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

Tiền

ư nh D Khá Trần

FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am La Fée Verte (or the ‘Green Fairy’) is a metaphor for the decadence of another age, an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The signature bar of the Hotel de l’Opéra Hanoi where, just as in Paris at the dawn of the 20th century, the making of an evening drink a lavish event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge atmosphere, great music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine to bring a genuine sense of occasion to after-dark in the capital.

Hà

CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

Tổ

+84 BAR

g Hồn

WILD WEST THEME BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822

hái Lý T

Tràn g

i Khả

Thi

a ng Qu

17 COWBOYS

n Trầ

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

Lý Thái Tổ

Ngu yễn Du

D

g ươn

t uậ

Nguyễn Tri Phư ơng

D ật Lê Thái Tổ

Tràn g

ng

ơ Chư Cầu

Nh

Đào ng Hà

ủ Ph

Thi

Cầu Gỗ

ng

g

Trần Hưn gĐ ạo Lê Duẩn

Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

n Biê

ần Tr

n Xuâ ng Đồ ợc Lư ng Hà

ên Bi

Lê Duẩn

ụ

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Bô

n Hà

Tràn g

LA FÉE VERTE

g Lon Cầu

Ph

Hoàng Di ệu

n Yê

HOAN KIEM DISTRICT

h Hàn T

uyên

MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late

PHUC TAN

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem

RELAX BAR

HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

ZONE 17

BAMBOO BAR 17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem The first bar in what will eventually (hopefully) be a

140 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

zone dedicated to bars and restaurants. A pool table, a square bar in the middle of the room and a barbecue until the early hours — there’s quite an atmosphere in this pleasant watering hole.

CAFES CIAO CAFÉ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

TWITTER BEANS COFFEE 45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com

CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE

ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES AMERICAN CLUB

EVENT SPACE 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach.

In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down.

The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare.

Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contem-

porary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.

Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA BADIANE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night.

A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.

Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.

hanoi

FOOD PROMOS VALENTINE’S DAY IN HANOI

Rockstore

Oysters at The Press Club

61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem The downtown music venue and event space will be celebrating Valentine’s courtesy of the turntable skills of DJ Blip-Blop. But to add spice to the evening, they’re also running a special Ao Dai Night. Women are invited to come in their best ao dai to celebrate the patron saint of love, with a prize for the best-dressed.

Movenpick Hotel movenpick-hotels.com/hanoi The Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is offering lovebirds the chance to dine in and stay in with its own decadent ‘Love Blossoms’ package.

First, dine on a sumptuous ‘Love at First Bite’ set menu before staying the night in a superior room furnished with chilled champagne, chocolates and roses, all for VND 2,900,000++ (or VND1,700,000++ excluding drinks and for the set dinner only).

Intercontinental Hotel intercontinental.com/hanoi Show your loved one just how much you care with an intimate dinner by the lake, complete with a scrumptious international buffet at Café Du Lac, for only VND2,000,000++ per couple. Otherwise, start your evening in style with a glass of sparkling wine at the hotel’s Sunset Bar, before heading to Milan restaurant for an indulgent

CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.

Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

NINETEEN 11

Green Tangerine 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem The long standing Indochine French-Vietnamese in the Old Quarter is putting on a special for Valentine’s — shrimps in champagne with asparagus surprise. For a night of “dreamy, passionate, refined cuisine,” as the flyer says, this might just be the place.

LE BEAULIEU

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm

PANE E VINO five-course Italian feast for VND2,000,000++ per couple.

If you’re really looking to seal the deal, head to their pastry store Le Gourmet to choose from a range of gourmet chocolates or baked goods, available from Feb. 7 to Feb. 14

Press Club 12 Ly Dao Thanh, Hoan Kiem Feast on a host of flavours at the Press Club this Valentine’s Day with a specially-designed set menu that’s guaranteed to get the heart racing.

Hit the pan-fried shrimp with mango avocado salsa before going for the salmon served with sautéed mushroom, mashed potato and cauliflower in a saffron butter sauce. Finish with a warm chocolate fondant served with ice cream and strawberry sauce, all for VND 840,000++ per person and inclusive of one the complimentary cocktail of the month — La Vie en Rose — for the ladies.

The Pullman pullmanhotels.com/hanoi There’ll be no reason to dine and dash this

Valentine’s Day with the Pullman Hotel offering a stylish package for Valentine’s Day revelers from Feb. 12 to 21.

Arrive early and enjoy free access to the hotel’s Fit Lounge, complimentary WiFi and free drinks in the mini-bar. Then, dine in-house with a complementary bottle of house wine and a bouquet of flowers for your beloved, before retiring to your deluxe room — or if you’re lucky, your upgraded executive or suite room — for a romantic night in.

Sleep in and enjoy a hearty breakfast for two, all for VND2,700,000++.

Grill 63 lotte.net Lotte Center’s Grill 63 will be putting on a Valentine’s Day feast courtesy of a set menu costing VND3.6 million ++ per couple.

Including champagne and in-house live music, women will also receive a 30 percent discount voucher for Lotte Center’s Evian Spa. For information or reservations, email reservation.fb@lotte.net

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.

Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PRESS CLUB

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list.

Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.

SATINE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com

WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR CITIMART

SUPERMARKET Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

DA LOC

WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

HANOI GOURMET

DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com The long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

INTIMEX

VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226

WESTERN CANNED FOODS

GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

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hanoi

THE ALCHEMIST TRUE LOVE

“T

o love is to recognize yourself in another.” — Eckhart Tolle.

I recently came across this quote and it gave me pause. The profoundness of the statement invites one to reflect on the nature of the relationships in one’s life as well as each potential relationship. Initially I thought Tolle was repeating the frequently expressed counsel, to love another, one must first love oneself. The premise with this advice is that you cannot fully receive love if you are unable to love yourself.

The Human and the Being What Tolle is suggesting goes beyond selflove and beyond empathy. It’s more than sharing or understanding another’s feelings or emotions.

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Tolle asks us to recognise the other as our self. In so doing we can potentially experience true love. He explains that, as human beings we embody two dimensions, the ‘human’ and the ‘being’.

“The human is the form,” he says.

“The being is the formless, timeless consciousness.”

According to Tolle, true love emanates from the timeless, transcendental nature of who we are. He believes that love becomes a source of suffering when the transcendental is missing. To bring in the transcendental we need to step back and give each other space. Tolle believes that in this space, thoughts or emotions become unimportant. We simply access the stillness within ourselves when we look at the other.

BY KAREN GAY

I Am, That I Am The rock band, Pink Floyd wrote, “I am you and what I see is me.” Were they inviting us to recognize our self in our fellow human being and thus drop the illusion of separateness and become aware that we are one and thus allow ourselves to experience true love?

Tolle suggests that, “love makes the world less worldly, less dense, more transparent to the divine dimension…”

Explore the divinity within yourself and in others, venture into that space that allows the transcendental to enter and to take form in love.

Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

tay ho

ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES

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THE REPUBLIC

MODERN SPORTS BAR 7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116 republic.vn A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

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ARTS WORK ROOM FOUR

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

BARS & CLUBS 88 LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029.

88group.vn 5pm to late A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele.

Well worth a visit.

HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170 hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from

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TAY TAP

BAR & GRILL No. 20, Lane 50/59/17, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917 taytap.com Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with beer and cider on tap, this recently relocated venue next to Da Paolo mixes contemporary international comfort food on the first floor with live music and an often raucous atmosphere. Amazing West Lake views from their top floor terrace.

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delivery from nearby favorites. Non-smoking, unpretentious, dog-friendly.

Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

MADAKE

CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665 or 0984 002181 With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal for those seeking a fusion of Western and Eastern cuisine. Famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, the ambient Asianstyle décor, weekend DJ nights and general atmosphere makes Madake a popular West Lake go-to joint.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho Open daily from 2pm.

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake.

Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouthwatering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

BOOK SHOPS BOOKWORM TOO

NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

hanoi HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KUB CAFE

BIKING CAFE so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho kub.vn Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole bringing that’s become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.

Does good on-the-table bia hoi and runs biking events.

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.

Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ

ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music.

Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel

combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CAFÉ / TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment.

Eclectic? Not a chance!

CLOTHING

0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE 68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BETTERWORLD

GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

LA CASA

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084 lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

MEKONG QUILTS

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.

Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

L’ATELIER

CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam.com Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

COOKING CLASSES HIDDEN HANOI

COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:

144 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

(Bamboo) and First (balance) bicycles and cycling equipment. Also rent bicycles (city, MTB or touring) and organise guided bicycle tours under the name Urban Discovery, with a 25-year experienced European mechanic as part of the team.

Closed Mondays.

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

COUSINS

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098 A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere.

Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula.

DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic.

Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA

BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, MiddleEastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE)

DON’S TAY HO

DON’S TAY HO

CYCLING COLLECTIVE 29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156 thbc.vn A place for bicycle lovers, THBC is the official supplier of ORBEA, DEDA, MEKONG

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger.

Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.

Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our

IL FARO

ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142 Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel, this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people behind Mediterraneo serves up an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italian-influenced atmosphere.

INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn.vn Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

J.A.F.A. HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia.com Daily 11am to 11pm A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL

CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi.

Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime

INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Set inside a newly renovated house with a large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.

R&R TAVERN

RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 8215 Now on its third location, this watering hole still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some quality live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events, while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.

SAINT HONORE

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da

THE PIE SHOP

TAKEAWAY PIES 2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 1507 thepieshophanoi@gmail.com Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style savoury pies and rolls. Available in three convenient sizes (mini, regular and large). Enjoy them hot as a takeaway, or frozen to keep for later.

ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE

VEGETARIAN / VEGAN 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam.com 8.30am to 8pm A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state — local, fresh, seasonal and organic.

EXPAT SERVIES MAID IN VIETNAM

HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3112 maidinvietnam.com Offering a licensed hire service for trained domestic and office housemaids, cooks and nannies.

Courses include health checks, housekeeping, safety, basic 1st

Aid, courses for external maids and household management for Vietnamese wives of foreigners.

FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS

TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

HANOI CLUB

COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com

HANOI OIS hanoinetball@gmail.com Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed ability, mixed gender club for adults wanting to enjoy team sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The club plays every Tuesday from 6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for more information

VIETCLIMB

CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS

ANNAM GOURMET

GROCERIES / DELI First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

KITCHEN ART

KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn

Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

L'S PLACE

GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

NATURALLY VIETNAM

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for expats and Vietnamese.

PUNTO ITALIA

COFFEE MACHINES 62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

THE OASIS

ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case.

Free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HOLISTIC HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER karen@a-roamingbodyworker. com a-roamingbodyworker.com Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available.

MEDICAL & DENTAL INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style checkups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam.

The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart. com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

hanoi

THE THERAPIST This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, advises on how to deal with a very difficult situation

Dear Douglas, My girlfriend and I have been together for over two years, but for the past few months we have had lots of arguments. She is too dependent on me financially, getting and losing jobs all the time.

A few weeks ago, after a big argument, I told her I wanted to break up and that she should go to stay with her sister or a friend.

She did, but has also come back to get things and wants to see me and convince me to keep her. I let her stay for a few days and then again we had a fight because she is jealous that I communicate with my exgirlfriend. I told her to leave again.

She called me later that night saying she had taken a lot of pills and was going to die.

After two hours, she finally told me where she was and I went there to help her. I told her that she can’t come back [to mine] to live.

I talked to her sister and mother, to tell them that she needs some help. But again she called me in the night saying she was dying of an overdose. Again I went to find her because I was so afraid she would die and I couldn’t live with that. I really don’t know what to do.

— Scared Dear Scared, Yes, of course you are scared. When someone

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tells us they will commit suicide and that we are the only one who can save them, we feel both scared and trapped. Your (ex) girlfriend is emotionally unstable and it is difficult to predict what she will do. So you are torn between leaving her and rescuing her. You have done a lot of things right in the way that you have handled it so far, but you can see that to continue rescuing her is really being manipulated in a way that doesn’t result in an outcome you can live with.

Suicides occur because people are in emotional pain and cannot imagine a way to feel better. This creates a sense of helplessness and hopelessness. Most often, when a person does feel better the desire to die goes away.

It appears that your former girlfriend is in intense emotional pain and hasn’t yet accepted the fact that your relationship has failed. Right now her only method of feeling better is when you show her you care about her, which runs counter to the message to her that you no longer feel like the relationship you have is working and sustainable.

While breakups are almost always difficult — and undesired breakups even more so — we know that the emotional pain goes away with time and with acceptance. At this point it might be helpful to continue to involve her family or other

friends and to let her know that threatening suicide will not be a successful way for her to sustain your relationship. While I am sure it is difficult to say, you must let her know that her decision to live or die is hers to make and that there are many ways that she can get help to feel better.

Let her know the healthy ways that you will support her, while maintaining the boundaries that allow you to make decisions that are right for you. Continue to set limits and reduce the time and availability you have for her. Believe that she will adapt and adjust to being broken up, and it will help her to believe it too.

This is undoubtedly painful and difficult for you, so it is important to take care of your own wellbeing, with healthy coping methods (sleeping, eating, exercise, spending time with friends), rather than unhealthy ones (drinking, smoking, letting yourself go). It is better to stay calm and consistent, than to swing between passivity and anger.

Good luck, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

hanoi to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus.

Reservations recommended.

ba dinh

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS BARBETTA

ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB 18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh facebook.com/vaulthanoi The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind Mao’s Red Lounge and The Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime decadence sits in the gap between The Old Quarter and West Lake, bringing in a range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition to the scene.

BOOKWORM

BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre.

With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

Đà n

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

COURTYARD CAFE 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh 9am to 5.30pm. Open every day Relax in a leafy courtyard, air-con dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the allday breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea.

MANZI

ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES GOETHE INSTITUT

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

Đinh T iên H o àn g

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boo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

n Yê

BA DINH DISTRICT

Trần Nhân Tông

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the Hanoi's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.

Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

FOODSHOP 45

MING PALACE

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bam-

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 10am to midnight

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space.

It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.

Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

FITNESS & YOGA N SHAPE FITNESS

MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats.

Also a 24-hour emergency service.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 147

hanoi

MEDICAL BUFF THE UNCOMMON COLD

S

neezing, scratchy throat, runny nose — everyone knows the first miserable signs of a common cold. More severe symptoms, such as high fever or muscle aches, may indicate you have the flu rather than a cold. As there are more than 100 viruses that cause a common cold, signs and symptoms tend to vary greatly.

The common cold is a viral infection of your upper respiratory tract — your nose and throat. A common cold is usually harmless, although it may not feel that way at the time. Pre-school children are at greatest risk of frequent colds, but even healthy adults can expect to have a few colds each year.

The Science You can catch a common cold from another person who is infected with the virus. This usually happens by touching a surface contaminated with cold germs — a computer keyboard, doorknob, or eating utensil, for example — and then touching your nose or mouth. You can also catch a cold by encountering the stuff someone with a cold has sneezed into the air.

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Being cold or wet are not actual causes of the common cold, however there are factors that make you more susceptible to catching a cold virus. If you are excessively fatigued, have emotional distress or suffer from allergies with nose and throat symptoms, then you are more likely to catch a cold.

While most colds last about seven to 10 days, if your symptoms linger, you may need to call the doctor. Sometimes, common colds can lead to bacterial infections in your lungs, sinuses or ears that require medical treatment such as antibiotics.

When to See a Doctor: Adults Seek medical attention if you have: — Fever of 102˚F (39.0˚ C) or higher — Fever accompanied by sweating, chills and a cough with coloured phlegm — Significantly swollen glands — Severe sinus pain

For Children In general, children get sicker from the common cold than adults do and often develop complications, such as ear infections. Your child doesn’t need to see

BY DR. BRIAN MCNAULL

the doctor for a routine common cold. But seek medical attention right away if your child has any of the following symptoms: — Fever of 100.4˚ F (38˚C) in newborns up to 12 weeks — Fever that rises above 104˚ F (40˚C) in a child of any age — Signs of dehydration, such as urinating less often than usual — Not drinking adequate fluids — Fever that lasts more than 24 hours in a child younger than 2 — Fever that lasts more than three days in a child older than 2 — Vomiting or abdominal pain — Unusual sleepiness — Severe headache — Stiff neck — Difficulty breathing — Persistent crying — Ear pain — Persistent cough Dr. Brian McNaull is Medical Director at Family Medical Practice, which is located in Vietnam’s major cities. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com

elsewhere

A DONG PHOTO CO

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION

RECREATION KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL

BARS & CLUBS CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

VUVUZELA

MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm

FRENCH GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com/frenchgrill Every day 6pm to 11pm With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 10am to midnight

CAFES KOTO ON VAN MIEU

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HAM HANH

ARTSY CAFE 170 Doi Can, Dong Da The physical representation of arts, film and music collective, The Onion Cellar, this cafe with multiple areas is as left field as the people who created it.

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space.

It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday

SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn

11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

rant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restau-

ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK

ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

NGUYEN CAU

ICE SKATING Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

X-FACTORY LASER TAG

HI-TECH USA

LASER TAG 77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com

DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261

PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL & DENTAL POTS ‘N PANS

SWIMMING POOL Landmark 72 Tower, Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com

128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732

FRENCH HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983 011081

VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

EAT ASAHI SUSHI

ELECTRONICS

LA VERTICALE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 149

hanoi

BOOK BUFF

This month, Bookworm’s Truong and some of Bookworm’s avid young adult readers look at four new releases that will probably be hot property in 2015 Isla and the Happily Ever After This is the third book in the series Anna and the French Kiss, a title that must have had a few parents on tenterhooks but which, after borrowing the first installment just to make sure, probably had them swooning like love-smitten teenagers. In which case they’ll be fighting their older offspring for possession to find out how Isla and Josh are getting along with a love affair that their elders considered having begun far too early.

The French in the ‘kiss’ is in reference to the two characters meeting at boarding school in Paris. Fans will be pleased to know that their French friends all have bit parts in this final tale. Author Stephanie Perkins has a successful recipe that incorporates two of the essential ingredients in a lot of modern teenage books and movies, romance and the essence of fairy tale. It has the added bonus of having really believable characters.

It’s probably best to begin with book one if you’re the type who appreciates the marshmallow swoon factor in your life.

The Queen of the Tearling For readers who hate to read book series out of sequence, this is the first of its series, released last year. It stirs in two other tried and tested ingredients to the young adult mixture: future fantasy and a medieval setting.

Erika Johansen has successfully mixed the flavours of Game of Thrones

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with the dark and dangerous twists and smouldering but almost requited sex of recent screen adaptations of Snow White and Sleeping Beauty.

The heroine is 19-year-old Kelsea, who finds herself fighting for a kingdom that is rightfully hers. She is given magic necklaces to help her circumvent the wicked intent of the evil red queen who has grabbed the throne. In the midst of all this, she has to come to terms about the truth of whom and what her mother was.

The movie rights were snapped up before the book was off the presses, which means that it could be a really hot read.

Emma Watson is set to play the Red Queen. Sound familiar?

The Young Elites Popular author Marie Lu of the Legend series has recently had the first book in her new series published. She adds three more extremely popular spices to the bubbling YA pot: science fiction, dystopia and a group of mixed-gender, misfit young characters.

It’s set in a time of plague, and young people who survive have acquired abnormal physical features such as facial discolouring, having only one eye, unnaturally tinged hair and other ‘deformities’ that cause their communities to shun them. To make these ‘freaks’ even more different and dangerously scary, they have acquired mysterious and powerful mental gifts.

Most non-callow readers will make the

intellectual jump and recognise bigotry extant in their own, real world.

It’s not only immensely entertaining, but is also incredibly well-written.

Love Letters to the Dead This a book for everyone, adults included, who loved the drama and angst offered up by super successful YA novelist John Green in The Fault in Our Stars.

Protagonist Laurel is given a school assignment to write a love letter to a dead person. She starts with a letter to Kurt Cobain. This becomes a private obsession and she writes loads of letters to famous people who died young, like Amy Winehouse, Janis Joplin and Heath Ledger.

Through these we learn secrets about her friends and family and the abuses she went through when she was in the protective care of a now dead sister, who she wants to mourn but can’t forgive.

The author, like a lot of present day YA lit novelists, is female. Could this indicate that teenage females are more avid readers than their male counterparts? Luckily, it definitely means that a lot of strong, sensitive characters in teenage books are now young women — and as many of these books are bound for cineplexes, younger, positive female role models may become the norm rather than the exception.

The main advice given by young critics on book review blogs is, just read it!

For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com

Ho Chi Minh City BUSINESS BUFF // JOB SEARCH // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // THE EMPTY WOK // STUDENT EYE // A WORLD OF GOOD PHOTO BY GLEN RILEY

HCMC

business

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES / EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS / RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS ACCOUNTING & AUDITING PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com

ADVERTISING & MKTG BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com

COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com

GREY GROUP

led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam

PURPLE ASIA

DENTSU VIETNAM AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com

PHIBIOUS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 3377 phibious.com An independent, creative–

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID 10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)

3925 2538 riverorchid.com

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM 4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn

GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES 4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 7305 0905

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prism.com.vn

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL 38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562. amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign busi-

ness group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com

HCMC CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon.

For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

EVENT MANAGEMENT CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS Tel: 0906 761190 centerpiece-vn.com info@centerpiece-vn.com Centerpiece is an independent event planning company run by expatriates that can plan any event from private parties, to corporate events to weddings.

EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 evecoo.vn

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD 268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to make any kind of event a success.

EXPAT SERVICES

AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com

ENDO 406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam

CREATION International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968 cushmanwakefield.vn

EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.

Enquiries via their website are welcome.

CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237

HAPPY HOUSE

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE 12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com

JONES LANG LASALLE CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES

Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam.

Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

advisory and other services.

Tel: 0934 874271 Iglobalassist.com

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE 49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661 baoviet.com.vn

IF CONSULTING IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment

IGLOBALASSIST

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.

Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn

PRUDENTIAL 25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367 ten-pac.com A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.

Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

CITYSMART Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3526 8833 7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government,

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.

Tel: (08) 7300 7257 info@eishcmc.com www.eishcmc.com Located in the heart of Thao Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum.

EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 153

HCMC

BUSINESS BUFF ADVERTISING

O

ne of the things I enjoy most from being an expat and living in a foreign land is not understanding the vast majority of advertising that is forced into my head every day.

To live in the era when advertising was designed to be helpful (and honest) to me would be great.

Yet somehow over the last century, companies have increased their products to fulfill every one of the growing list of basic human needs. As a result, the competition for the consumer has grown exponentially. Advertising now appears everywhere you look, listen, move, call, read, drive, fly, work and play. Buy this!

Buy that! Free sample! Call us! Email us!

Visit us! Follow us! Connect with Me! I saw recently a 472-page slide show on the evolution of advertising and how it changed from advertising to marketing.

There were some fascinating insights from this slideshow.

— The majority of consumers need to hear a company claim three to five times before they will believe it — The first newspaper advertisement was in 1650 and was a reward for stolen horses — The first advertising agency was launched in 1841 — The first academic course in advertising was started in 1900 — The first radio advertisement cost US$100 (VND2.1 million) for 10 minutes in 1922. That is equivalent to US$1,247 (VND26.7 million) in today’s money — In 1946 the US had 12 TV stations.

Now they have over 1,700 — In 1993 the entire internet had 5 million users. That is equivalent to under 0.5 percent of Facebook users today

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— The first email spam was sent in 1994 by a law firm — By 1998 the average consumer saw over 3,000 marketing messages per day — In 2009 regulators in the US had to formally ban untruthful customer testimonials — In 2011 there were over 1 trillion internet pages, more than 400 for every person on the planet — A York University study revealed that US pharmaceutical companies spend twice as much on advertising as they do on research — More than US$500 billion a year is spent on advertising worldwide. Over US$15 billion is targeted advertising to children in the US — By the time a person in the US is 65 years old, he will have seen an estimated two million television commercials — In 1900, the standard billboard was created in America, creating a billboard boon along streets and highways — Most watches displayed in advertisements are set to 10:10 because the hands of the watch frame the watch brand name and make a smiling face — Advertisers consciously try to create a ‘nag factor’ by bombarding kids with ads encouraging them to buy certain products in order to become popular.

American children ages 12 to 17 will ask a parent for products they have seen on television an average of nine times before parents finally give in — In 2000, US internet advertising revenue was $8.1 billion. In 2011, that figure jumped to US$32 billion. In 2013, the figure was US$42 billion — Advertisers often use a technique called ‘affective condition’, which means

BY SHANE DILLON

they take a product and place it next to other things consumers feel positively about. For example, a detergent ad will juxtapose their brand with babies, sunshine, flowers, or other similar items.

Repeatedly showing their brand with these items makes consumers feel good about the detergent too — Studies show that repeated exposure to a stimulus that is barely perceptible creates an ‘exposure effect’, which increases positive feelings towards the object. For example, even though most people do not click banner ads, the ads still positively influence the way people feel about the product. In fact, the ‘wear out’ effect of banner ads does not appear even after 20 exposures.

— Life was the first magazine to make US$100 million per year in advertising — By 1938, radio surpassed magazines in generating advertisement profits — Doyle Dane Bernbach’s Think Small ad for Volkswagen at the end of the 1950s is considered the most successful advertisement of all time as it took a German car initially created for Hitler and successfully sold it to post-war Americans.

— The largest group of advertisers is food marketers — Researchers report that women’s magazines have 10.5 times more ads and articles promoting weight loss than men’s magazines do, and over 75 percent of women’s magazine covers include at least one article title about how to change a woman’s body by diet, exercise, or cosmetic surgery Shane also advertises, he can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

HCMC LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 lgkids.vn Energized Engaged Empowered

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC)

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com The most established international school in HCMC, ISHCMC recently celebrated 20 years of success. A fully accredited IB World School, authorised to teach all three programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully accredited by both the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC), two of the most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different nationalities.

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP) 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788 admissions@issp.edu.vn Set in a purpose-built campus, International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 years. With 90 percent of their teachers having master’s degrees, they are able to promise a vigorous American curriculum while including specialist subjects such as music, art, sport and languages.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944 kidsclubsaigon.com Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five.

Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance.edu.vn Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a

stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 theamericanschool.edu.vn

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278 vas.edu.vn

INTERIOR DESIGN PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND REMODELING Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk) Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new colour in the living room?

Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP 27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup. co.uk

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market.

Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS ILA VIETNAM 146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com

MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)

3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com

MANAGEMENT TRAINING EMBERS ASIA 80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com

TNS VIETNAM 58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn

With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES DRAGON IMAGES Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective public relations campaigns.

Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions.

Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 155

HCMC

JOB SEARCH YOUTH UNEMPLOYMENT

I

n 2014, global unemployment broke the all-time record, with 201.8 million people without a job, and an unemployment rate of 6 percent, unchanged from 2012. It is estimated that there will be more than 215 million jobseekers by 2018. In the Asian region, the unemployment rate stood at 4.3 percent in 2014. Compared to others, Vietnam has the third lowest rate (2.08 percent), after Thailand (0.8 percent) and Singapore (1.90 percent), and followed

by Malaysia (2.70 percent).

For Asia, the lack of available candidates is the most pressing challenge, preventing 3 out of 10 employers from hiring enough qualified people to meet their needs. A few key reasons include the gap between academic training and hiring demands, and the availability as well as quality of the skilled workforce. Despite companies struggling to fill jobs, the proportion of young people ‘Neither in Employment, nor in Education or Training’ (NEET) has continued the steep upward trend recorded since the start of the financial crisis. In some countries, almost one-quarter of young people aged 15 to 29 are now NEET.

Youth Unemployment in Vietnam in 2014 Since joining the WTO, Vietnam has become a candidate-driven market and remains so, despite a sluggish GDP

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increase of 5.98 percent in 2014. In 2014, the top-five in-demand positions in Vietnam by job category were finance, sales, engineering, IT and HR. However, there is a gap between supply and demand, most visibly in finance.

Although it has a young population, Vietnam also faced similar challenges with youth unemployment in 2014, where almost 17 percent of young jobseekers are fresh university graduates. As the economy slowly recovered, companies both domestic and international became pickier at senior levels.

While qualified and experienced candidates will continue to be hired, younger graduates will face more competition. This is due to a competency gap between the needs of employers and the capabilities of new job seekers; only the fittest will survive and get hired. This is considered a huge concern for Vietnam moving forward, as it needs to create one million jobs a year to maintain its low unemployment rate.

The Role of Private Employment Agencies in 2015 Under the shift from an agricultural to manufacturing-based economy, the need for a flexible workforce in Vietnam has become more prevalent. With the need for a skilled workforce and with youth unemployment rates rising, private

BY NICOLA CONNOLLY

employment agencies are expected to play a more important role by creating a stepping stone into permanent employment via the services of temporary staffing — not only providing jobs but also giving the training required.

Worldwide, private employment agencies employ 9.5 million people, with over 700,000 jobs created through the use of this temporary workforce. The top 10 agencies in Vietnam employ over 13,500 people, and generate revenue in excess of €42 million per annum.

However, for Vietnam to fully leverage the roles of private employment agencies and ensure full protection of employee’s rights, there needs to be a move to internationally recognised principles governing private employment agencies.

Penalties should be enforced against rogue agencies, which do not adhere to regulations and fail to meet their obligations or safeguard workers’ rights.

It is also necessary to remove the imposed maximum term of the labour sublease agreement, which requires enterprises to change workers every 12 months. Such term entails a significant training burden, particularly as 65 percent of Vietnam’s workforce is still deemed unskilled.

Nicola Connolly is the general director of Adecco Vietnam and chairwoman of the European Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam

HCMC G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and Japanese candidates with experience studying abroad or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for many types of business.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com

RELOCATION AGENTS

CROWN RELOCATIONS 2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo.com for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 www.asiantigers-mobility. com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08) 3742 5678 enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apart-

ments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

AIRLINES AIR ASIA www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC

SERVICED APARTMENTS SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

SCORE-TECH

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come

260 TTH21, Tan Thai Hiep, Q12, Tel: (08) 3711 9958 A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a design team from Barcelona, Score-Tech controls the whole production process from producing fabrics and sewing to printing. Big and small orders of garments produced for all sporting needs.

5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/ vn

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines. com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerair.com

VIETJETAIR www.vietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 157

HCMC

BODY

AND

TEMPLE

THE FIZZY FIEND

BY PHIL KELLY

T

he real problem with the modern human diet is that we are not eating enough real food. Rather we are eating products that interrupt our auto-regulatory system, which causes toxin build-up and fat storage. The best way to lose weight and feel great in the 2015 is to simply cut out all the fiends, the villains and nasty ‘food-like’ substances from your diet. One of the biggest culprits is soda… the fizzy fiend!

It’s incredible to think that the single biggest source of calories for Americans isn’t vegetables, bread, pasta or Big Macs — it’s soda. The average American drinks about two cans of the stuff every day. This is becoming a common statistic throughout the world. That’s an equivalent of 18 to 20 teaspoons of sugar in just two drinks.

What could be so bad about having a little of nature’s sweet goodness once in awhile? The answer is nothing, if you really only are having just a little unrefined sugar only once in a while.

But in the last 20 years, sugar consumption has skyrocketed. Over this short time period, sugar intake in the US has increased by 519 percent (from 11kg to 61kg of sugar per person per year!). The correlation between the rise in sugar consumption and chronic disease is staggering. In the early 1900s, cardiovascular disease and cancer were virtually unheard of — when the average sugar consumption was only 2kg per person per year.

Soda has been the biggest modern day influencer on sugar consumption and disease risk. In fact, drinking just one sugarsweetened beverage per day has been linked to a 20 percent increase in risk of having a heart attack.

The Harvard School of Public Health also found that the risk increased along with the quantity of sugary drinks consumed.

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“Diet” Soda This growing awareness of sugar and its empty calories has prompted a switch to consuming ‘sugar-free’, ‘zero-calorie’ and ‘diet’ beverages. The American Journal of Nutrition claims that, among adults, consumption of these drinks has increased by 25 percent, and children are consuming more than double the amount they did in the last decade.

However, the biggest problem with soda and especially diet soda isn’t the sugar or the calories. “But surely because diet soda is sugar and calorie-free it is healthier and won’t make me fat. Right?”

The reality is that all soda, pop or fizzy drink is bad for you. Diet fizzy drinks are even worse than their sugar-laden accomplices. One recent study found that those who drank diet soda regularly were 40 percent more likely to have a heart attack or stroke. This research proves that reduced calories are the least of your concerns.

Below are six disturbing facts about what these fizzy drinks do to your body, that don’t get much attention in discussions about soda and their impact on your health.

Aspartame The key ingredient in diet soda has been found to increase hunger. So while your drink is calorie-free, you may end up eating more.

Caramel Colour A brown colouring that contains 2-methylimidazole and 4-methylimidazole, chemicals that have been linked to lung, liver and thyroid cancer.

Sodium Diet soda has been linked to an increased

risk of stroke, and scientists think the high sodium content could be the culprit.

Phosphoric Acid and Caffeine Scientists speculate that the phosphoric acid and caffeine in soda contribute to osteoporosis. This is of particular concern for women. A group of researchers found that women who reportedly drank just three sodas a week had an average of 4 percent more bone loss at important sites in the hips than women who drank any other beverage.

Flavour Additives Sugar is not the only ingredient that will erode your teeth in soda. The acidity of soda is very high (with a pH of 3.2), and along with food additives in flavoured versions (such as ginger, cherry and lemon-lime versions) have been proven to contribute to the erosion of tooth enamel.

Bisphenol A (BPA) BPA is an endocrine disruptor that has been linked to everything from heart disease, reproductive disorders, obesity and immune system disorders. Soda cans and plastic bottles contaminate the liquid with BPA.

In Short...

Diet or sugar-free soda may have less calories, but they still disrupt your metabolic processes and poison your body.

That’s a lot of risk for one small beverage!

Skip the soda… your body won’t miss it in the long run and you’ll be amazed at how much better you’ll feel.

Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763, at bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC

downtown

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

D

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com

BEER REPUBLIC

MODERN BEER HALL 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 0945 858034 facebook.com/BeerRepublic

BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202. bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

BROMA

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments.

A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town.

Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.

CARMEN

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 0908 033982

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.vn

GAME ON

SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com

HARD ROCK CAFE

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn

ICE BLUE

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

LAST CALL

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122

FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR 9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0396 lerendezvousdesaigon.com With such a meaningful name - the meeting point - this wine bistro boasts a relaxed, friendly ambience, perfect for unwinding with an after work drink or to enjoy time with friends.

Reasonably priced, has a sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive old and new world wine list.

LEVEL 23 WINE BAR

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

MARTINI BAR LOUNGE BAR 3rd Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Martinis with various combinations of premium spirits and other fresh flavours figure prominently on the drink menu at this classic Indochine-styled bar, all put together by Caravelle’s award-winning mixologists.

O’BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

PACHARAN

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6024 pacharansaigon.com

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Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PARK LOUNGE

LOUNGE BAR & CAFE Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com An elegant, ground floor venue in The Hyatt, perfect for social and business gatherings. As well as nightly live music, serves afternoon tea staples including warm scones with generous portions of homemade jam and clotted cream.

PHATTY’S

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON RANGER

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LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON

District 3

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APOCALYPSE NOW

FUSE

lastcallsaigon.com If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined.

Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

Tr an

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

EXPAT / SPORTS BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2853 Subtle lighting, a pleasant ambience, a pool table and darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel of a drinking man's pub. A place to have fun, drink beer or spirits and get in with the party mood. Known for its 15 shooter challenge.

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BARS & CLUBS

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559 facebook.com/saigonranger Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue be-

District 4

tween different forms of art.

Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR

LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR 9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends.

Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.

SHRINE BAR

STYLISH LOUNGE BAR 61 Ton Thap Thiet, Q1 shrinebarsaigon.com Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere.

Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere.

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn

THE CUBE BAR

HIP RESTOBAR 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798

facebook.com/thecubesaigon A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

THE OBSERVATORY BAR, ART & DJ SPACE 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

THE ORIENT

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 159

HCMC

COFFEE CUP THE CHAPEL

I

t’s not often that the ‘World Building of the Year’ goes so unheralded in its own city. Yet that’s the situation of The Chapel — local firm a21 studio’s thusly-recognised café, facing the river in the eastern reaches of Binh Chanh.

Digging deep on Google, we got past re-blogs of the World Architecture Festival awards — a ceremony that’s been nicknamed the ‘Architectural Oscars’ — and finally found a Facebook page. The photo posts from the months since opening lacked the clean lighting of the ones on design blogs, with the blown-out contrast of smartphone photos.

On behalf of the festival’s judging panel, WAF Programme Director Paul Finch said, “The judges felt this was a project that embraced history and modernity, and created a dialogue in the process. It has created maximum effect with minimum materials and has produced an unexpected change of pace in its urban context.”

We headed out of downtown on the Nguyen Van Cu Bridge to see how the café had evolved from such promising beginnings. What we found seemed to fall short.

The Café It was hard to tell if it was the pedigree of the beans or the over-steamed milk that left my taste buds with a flat finish every time I took a sip of my latté, beneath the

160 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Francis Xavier

flavour-obscuring chocolate rosette. It’s not often that I find myself drinking further down a cup to find the source of the bad.

(Counterpoint: photographer Francis’s mango smoothie was pretty good.)

The menu has the retro, French industrial feel of L’usine’s. Split between pizza and pasta, Italian and Vietnamese coffee drinks, smoothies and Disaronno sours, they cater towards a specific type of taste bud. One which I definitely lack.

The music (on the poppy side of easy listening) and neighbours (on one side, a leaf burner, on the other, a house that’s been under construction for a few months) also failed to complement the unique feel of the space.

The Space The building itself was less shimmering than I’d been led to believe — creamcoloured paint already peeling off the reclaimed corrugated metal that made up the café’s two walls and A-frame roof (“they’re waiting till Tet to repaint it,” Francis told me). The failing, indirect sunlight didn’t light up the colour panels as I’d seen in the photos. Steaks of dirt and odd angles created uneven shadows.

But as the light fell, the charm of the place began to emerge. The dangling circles of incandescent bulbs exerted stronger halo effects than they had previously, giving the wooden tables

and floors a generous shine. Trees on either side of the space were backlit, and splashed light onto the colour panes. I Want to Know What Love Is followed by You Raise Me Up didn’t seem entirely unpleasant.

The Chapel was awarded on the basis of its potential as a communal space, in an area were rapid development has left this need out of the equation. And it’s still too early to judge it on this count.

Lead architect Toan Nghiem told Word, “I believe that The Chapel is still on its way to being a community space. For example, there are many different activities such as weddings, exhibitions or year-end company meetings that are organised in this place. We are working closely with the owner to make sure that the space is adapted to a variety events.”

As a curiosity, an experiment, The Chapel works — and you’ll never find this reviewer panning the drive to innovate.

But cafés have found social footholds as comfortable, lived-in spaces, and it’s here, for me, that The Chapel fails.

The good news is that it’s only by a matter of degrees. For the sake of interesting cafés citywide, let’s hope they make the adjustments necessary to get it right. — Ed Weinberg The Chapel is at 136 So 1, KDC Trung Son, Binh Chanh, Ho Chi Minh City, and on facebook.com/chapel.vn

HCMC VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

VINYL BAR

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

XU

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468

xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

ZANZBAR

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375 Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting, international tapas and a laid-back, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river end of Dong Khoi.

Popular with a businessy, international crowd.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BACH DANG

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707

BASKIN ROBBINS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn

CASBAH

MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7285 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international

café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

FANNY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704 saigongivral.com

GOODY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES

CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 guanabanasmoothies.com An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.

HÄAGEN-DAZS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

MAGONN THE CAFE 109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9672 magonn.vn Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything from drinks to bites. Coming with a crowd? The attic is a quaint little spot to fit a cozy gathering.

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

PLANTRIP CHA

TEA ROOM 8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung Street, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe.com.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection.

Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows.

The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to

8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

DEBENHAMS

ADULT & CHILDREN’S WEAR Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7592

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

CASUAL & EVENING WEAR 85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004 Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs.

The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags.

Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA

BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm

L’USINE

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

SONG

ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com

T&V TAILOR

TAILORS 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com

VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com

BOCONCEPT

DANISH FURNITURE 68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn

DIABOLO

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm

EM EM

SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm

LUXURY FURNITURE IN VIETNAM Tel: 0909 042765 luxury-furniture-vietnam. com A complete and exclusive

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TOP EATS VILLA ROYALE

“W

hen most people travel they bring home a T-shirt or a tea towel — I buy a chandelier and a desk!” — David Campbell, January 2015 Villa Royale is David Campbell’s very own antique treasure-chest. He’s the owner, chef and objet d’art collector whose by now 18-month-old adventure in Saigon is bringing back old world charm. Already popular for reinvigorating the art of the high tea, David’s laid back service and opulent residence make the ‘establishedin-the-west’ concept of eating in an antique store a welcome addition to the city.

Tucked far enough away to achieve the sense of escape that locals crave, first timers to Villa Royale will quickly realise that the linear experience of arriving, sitting down, ordering and eating doesn’t necessarily apply.

When it comes to the food, there’s no doubt that Campbell is catering for a western palate here — treats you love from home. But there’s nothing so bourgeois as a menu. Instead, David makes food dependent on the best available ingredients, so to order he will physically take you through to his kitchen, past his collection of antiques, and right up to the window of his vintage bain marie.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy

There you’ll witness temptation itself.

Available to order are some dangerously good desserts and slices, actively distracting you from the more savoury but no less delicious selection of filo pastries, bespoke quiches and eclectically flavoured pot pies.

Making your choice here will be the hardest thing you’ll do all day.

The Taste Test Temporarily setting aside our own early cake-lust on the day we visited, photographer Kyle goes for the lemongrass chicken and coconut cream pot pie (VND180,000), while I choose the roast chicken filo pastry with macadamia nut and truffle cream (VND190,000). The filo comes with a garden salad and altogether it’s a fresh, light, yet surprisingly filling meal. The pastry is crisp but flaky, not unlike an old friend I’ve missed. The combination of macadamia and truffle push it well beyond any filo I’ve had of late, and I finish every mouthful. Kyle echoes my satisfaction with his pot pie as we continue drinking the oxidating TWG Red of Afrika tea (VND75,000 per pot) that David has recommended.

Following our mains and another pot, this time the TWG Singapore Breakfast (VND75,000 per pot), we easily give in to

our pre-hatched dessert plans. I spring for the passion fruit meringue (VND90,000) while Kyle opts for the Dalat strawberry cheesecake (VND90,000). Seemingly drunk on the high life we’re now living — poolside gazebos and one-off art from around the world will do that — I simply describe the rich strawberry cheesecake as ‘fluffy heaven’ and the passion fruit meringue as like ‘hoola hoops and ice cream’. Luckily I haven’t had an actual drink, though a glass of sherry or perhaps a cool martini wouldn’t be out of place right now.

Impressions For first time visitors, Villa Royale is not an easy find. Once there, though, it easily lives up to its name and first impression, which is grand. David really is the friendly guy from his TripAdvisor reviews, and his finds from around the world are amazing.

However, even for those not big on antiques you’ll easily find enough reason to visit again, because his food, his teas and the sense of occasion the property delivers, will all want make you come back.

Not bad for a guy who came out here to retire. — Jon Aspin Villa Royale is at 8 Dang Huu Pho, Thao Dien, Q2, Ho Chi Minh City

HCMC

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 163

HCMC

THE EMPTY WOK PIRI PIRI CHICKEN

BY RICCHA ARORA

AA food food blogger blogger and and self-styled self-styled chef, this month chef,Riccha this month Arora AroraRiccha ventures into the world of indulges Portuguese-African her sweet tooth spice

P

iri piri chicken was on my bucket list for a long time, and I’ve been experimenting for a while now.

After couple of trial sessions I finally landed on a winning combination of ingredients for this authentic dish. Piri piri simply means bird’s eye chilli pepper. It is used in the cooking of Portugal, Angola, Namibia, Mozambique and South Africa.

The sauce, however, is Portuguese.

So how do we make piri piri sauce at home with the ingredients available in Vietnam?

Where do we find African bird’s eye chilli? I found the solution — ot sung do, or the long red chillis you find in Vietnam. It works.

The beauty of this hearty meal is it is flavoursome, spicy, easy and economical.

That’s why I recommend making the sauce yourself, at home. You can also make it as spicy or as mild as you wish — something you can’t do if you buy piri piri sauce out of a jar.

To get that crisp and tender combination of sauce and meat, I cook the chicken on the stove and finish it off in the oven grill.

Ingredients (Serves 4) — 4 chicken thighs or drumsticks with skin on

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Photo by Kyle Phanroy

— Fresh long red chillis (ot sung do).

4 to 5 depending on how spicy you can take it — 2-3 cloves of crushed garlic — 100ml of extra virgin olive oil — 25ml of red wine vinegar — Juice of 1 lime — Juice of 1 lemon — 1 tablespoon paprika — 1 tablespoon oregano

Making the Sauce 1) Place the red chillies in the oven to dry roast for 10 minutes.

2) Mix the olive oil, red wine vinegar, crushed garlic, lemon and lime juice, oregano and paprika, and whisk gently.

Place on the stove on a low flame for 2 minutes.

3) Once the chillis are roasted, remove the green stems and add them to the oil mixture. Heat and then simmer for 2 minutes.

4) Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend into a fine paste.

The Marinade 1) Dry the drumsticks, slit them in the centre and marinade with 3 to 4 tablespoons of sauce on each piece.

2) Massage well and keep in the refrigerator for a minimum of 45 minutes.

Cooking the Chicken 1) Pre-heat the oven to 170 degrees Celsius for 10 minutes.

2) Place the marinated chicken on a grilling pan and cook in the oven until they are cooked 50 percent. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of sauce.

3) Take an oven tray and transfer the chicken into it with all the juices and leftover sauce.

4) Grill for 20 minutes until the chicken is well cooked.

Piri piri chicken is best served with corn on the cob, salad, French fries or even sticky rice.

Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy Kitchen —facebook.com/arorassassykitchen

HCMC range of furniture produced by high-end furniture producers in Vietnam and also in Europe (Austria, Denmark, Germany, Italy, France).

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org

NGUYEN FRERES

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.

(08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 69 Dong Khoi, Q1

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org

Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.

Excellent delivery service.

ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant. com Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 www.nhaxinh.com

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631

AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains,

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 barbecuegarden.com

BASILICO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon

BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

BLACK CAT

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style.

Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

BLANCHY STREET

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city.

All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink

BUN CHA HA NOI

BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CENTRAL PARC BANH MI 7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New Yorkthemed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels. Excellent delivery service.

The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas.

Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.

Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn

GRILLBAR

AIRCON STREETFOOD 122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901 facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes, typical of the barbecue fare you’d find on the street, and then add in three types of

rice and a range of organic products. Close to Ben Thanh Market, this is com binh dan

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

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HCMC

STUDENT EYE LUCKY MONEY

I

n a couple of weeks, as the beautiful pink petals of the peach blossom tree cover the streets, living rooms and the backseats of motorbikes, our wallets will also bloom with li xi (Tet lucky money). New and old faces will meet, greetings and blessings will be shared, and red envelopes will pass from the hands of the older to those of the younger.

Though there are numerous reasons to be excited for Tet, one big reason is the red envelope. Children will become extra polite and put on extra big smiles to harvest Tet money from parents, grandparents, family friends and even some adults that they vaguely know of.

I remember coming back to my room each night, sitting on the floor and counting the stack of bank notes over and over again. I was excited about the money inside the envelopes, but looking back, I realise that the real value was in something else.

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Pennies from Heaven Unlike an allowance that merely allows us to afford a normal childhood, Tet money has always been something very special.

First of all, it is much larger in size: what started with a single VND5,000 coin when I was eight slowly grew to VND10,000 bills, then VND100,000 — and now, a couple of VND500,000 notes in a single envelope. Not only that, while my parents often try to impose their authority and power over my allowance, I have complete ownership and freedom over the money I earn during Tet. Although I often wasted the money on sweets and snacks as a kid, it also came to be the foundations of many ‘new’ experiences. It was with the Tet money that I created my first bank account, bought my first mobile phone (a Nokia-6021), and paid for my first meal alone with my friends at KFC. For a close friend of mine, it even paid for a night out with his date.

While li xi seems to hold a number

of different meanings, such as fortune or wealth, for the young me, it meant new opportunities — ones that became some of my most treasured memories or enlightening lessons in my life. I valued li xi not for the number of zeros printed on the bank notes, but more for the joy and vast expanses of the experiences I could afford with them.

As I will graduate this year and leave the country, this may be one of the last times I receive lucky money at Tet. As unfortunate as that may sound, it also excites me because the next time I return to Vietnam for Tet, I’ll have become old and hopefully wealthy enough to be the one handing out li xi’s. And instead of wishing the young, hopeful children great fortune or good grades, I will to wish them new experiences, joyful memories and invaluable lessons. — Tae Jun Park Tae Jun Park is a high school senior at the United Nations International School of Hanoi, unishanoi.org

HCMC KABIN

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LE BANH MI 12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA BETTOLA

LITTLE ITALY 84 Ho Tung Mau Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4402 labettolasaigon.com Located in the heart of Saigon, La Bettola is the only restaurant in town managed by two Italian chefs and an Italian waiter. A woodfired pizza oven, a downstairs bar and a stylish, elegant setting on the second floor are part of the mix. As is the home-made mozzarella, ricotta cheese, ravioli magro, tortelli mushrooms, pappardelle and mascarpone cheese for the tiramisu, which is made fresh every day. Has a great selection of Italian wine.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico.

Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fu-

sion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

LE JARDIN

OSAKA RAMEN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3691 A contemporary trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a beautifully designed space with high ceilings. The menu features both traditional antipasti and substantial main courses.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com A contemporary, casual, trattoria-style restaurant with al fresco dining overlooking the Opera House. Specialising in both traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine, the restaurant also features an impressive breakfast menu.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PASHA MAY RESTAURANT 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com 7am to late Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677 pasha.com.vn Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com

NHA HANG NGON

VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

OMG!

FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell

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HCMC white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating.

Authentically Turkish cuisine with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

PROPAGANDA

CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

QUAN BUI 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

SAIGON CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

TANDOOR SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

SORAE

SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689 soraesushi.com Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.

SEOUL HOUSE

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

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saigon.park.hyatt.com An atmospheric Ho Chi Minh City restaurant featuring simple and authentic Vietnamese and Western cuisine offered from an impressive display of integrated show kitchens to serve guests in five different dining areas. Open for lunch and dinner.

SQUARE ONE TOP-END INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE First Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

THE BURGER CORNER

INTERNATIONAL 43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094

THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON 54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079 swisshousesaigon.com Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an

alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Does a great set lunch deal.

YU CHU

TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA ANUPA YOGA

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Cfyc.com.vn

NUTRIFORT

GENERAL FITNESS 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8560 nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

HCMC SAIGON FITNESS CO.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

SHERATON FITNESS

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

THE LANDMARK CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate.

Sells prints of the originals and related products.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm.vn

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com

deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.

Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

BACCHUS CORNER

WINE SHOP 158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3306 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

WINE SHOP 74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4376 kimhai.vn

PHUONG HA

GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318

RED APRON

WINE SHOP 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0021

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VEGGY’S

GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298

MEDICAL & DENTAL ACCADENT

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

SALONS & SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 aquadayspasaigon.com

FAME NAILS SALON FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy,

includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies.

Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

Q SPA & SALON 31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage.

Also offers hair styling and facials.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn

THE SPA Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com

FV SAIGON CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

VINIFERA

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

WINE SHOP 7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0860 viniferavn.com

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

VINO WINE SHOP

GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The

HAIRDRESSERS VENUS

WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.

Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

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HCMC

pham ngu lao

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / GALLERIES BAKERIES CRUMBS

BAKERY 117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

TOUS LES JOURS

KOREAN BAKERY 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350

BARS & CLUBS BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575

GODMOTHER BAR

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect

setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

UNIVERSAL BAR

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the name of that most special of sounds — the one from Jamaica.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

SPOTTED COW

CAFES BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fast-food style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge.

Check website for movie locations and schedule.

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE 213 Bui Vien, Q1 facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

THI CAFÉ

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839

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MARATHON

LA CANTINA

BUDGET CLOTHING 147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019

PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com

THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311

JJ’S FISH ‘N CHIPS

FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De Tham, Q1

TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE 175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm

U.BEST HOUSE

TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com

ITALIAN / TEX-MEX 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT

NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB 40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 3777 monuvn@gmail.com Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This side-street Indian serves up some excellent fare at reasonable prices, with a number of Punjabi specialities to boot.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9780

EAT NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BURRITO REVOLUTION

SISTERS CAFE

VIETNAMESE/WESTERN 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 Light wood paneling, beige walls and locally themed artwork help to create a fresh and airy ambience in this café-cum-restaurant that is owned by the woman behind Chi’s Café. Also does visa extensions and motorbike rental.

TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES CHINESE NOODLES 195A De Tham, Q1 tamhao.com Nothing gets better than a bowl of tasteful broth and hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when it’s from Tam Hao. Hip interior design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BLUE DRAGON

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnam-

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

MARGHERITA

ORANGE

TEX-MEX / STREET STALL 124 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 714882

BAM SKATE SHOP

T&R TAVERN

CORIANDER

BABA’S KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929

themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

THE HUNGRY PIG

BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar.

A popular hangout.

WRAP & ROLL 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check out the second floor, junglein-the-wall décor at this particular branch. Unique and refreshing.

ZEUS

GREEK / KEBAB 164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

GALLERIES GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

district 1

BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

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District 2

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District 10

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District 4

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BARS & CLUBS BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 0906 780081

CHILL SKYBAR

TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

HOA VIEN

CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn

vatory on the other side of Pham Ngu Lao. Open late, holds a number of nights like Tropical Wednesday, Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies’ night and Underground Saturdays, all in an attempt to pump things up for the party seekers in town.

BOOKS LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.

Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

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REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Saigon’s first reggae bar located close to The Obser-

CAFES (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such

as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003 sam.nguyen197@gmail.com A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn

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HCMC

A WORLD

OF

WHEN NGOS GO BAD

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

Somaly Mam ran an NGO in Cambodia set up to combat the global sex trade before it was discovered that her own personal story about being trafficked was fake

H

eavens, looks like those who should know better are up to it again. By that I mean the continuing fallout from charities that aren’t quite walking their talk.

Voluntourism is on the rise and with it increasing reports of fake orphanages and fake animal sanctuaries springing up to cater to ill-informed travellers’ desire to ‘do good’.

But when well-intentioned NGOs go bad, they go really bad.

The Cambodian anti-trafficking charity — much loved by celebs — Somaly Mam Foundation imploded spectacularly last year, when investigations revealed its namesake founder wasn’t actually a trafficking survivor and that she had ordered a number of the female youth in her ‘shelters’ to exaggerate or outright lie about their sexual exploitation. The foundation issued a one-page apology scrupulously avoiding the name of the disgraced founder, stating it has “officially ceased all operations, ended all grant funding, and permanently closed [its] doors”.

Elsewhere, Save the Children (US) staff have signed an internal petition demanding that the ‘global legacy’ gong awarded to former British prime minister Tony

172 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Blair by their organisation be revoked.

Blair was apparently acknowledged for his contributions to fighting poverty and climate change; however, those who didn’t join in raising a celebratory glass argue the only thing Blair has fought is illegal wars, calling the award “morally reprehensible”.

The American Red Cross has come under intense scrutiny amid allegations it lied about how many people it fed during disaster relief on the east coast of the US after Superstorm Sandy and Hurricane Isaac. Officials ordered empty emergency vehicles driven around to ‘look busy’ and then parked them as not-too-subtle backdrops during press conferences. The Livestrong Foundation used to be known by another name, didn’t it?

It’s the staff I feel for: the women and men working (or volunteering) for a cause they believe in, only to be duped by the founder or other head honchos. A young woman confessed her doubt to me about a city orphanage run by Buddhist monks she and her brother had volunteered at.

She was confused, and possibly rightly so, by the shabby state of the kids’ beds, food and clothing. She was unsure what exactly donations were being collected for at the

pagoda. Crikey, fake monks?

The Lesson in This Rogue NGOs are, thankfully, the exception not the norm, but when they fail it’s big news because of the awfulness of the deceit. It just makes it that much more unnecessarily difficult for the legit ones.

Is this a sign of the increasing lengths nonprofits have to go to in order to drum up cash in an increasingly self-regarding society? There is a razor line between good intentions and fraud. Let’s be open about the donations we receive and how we spend that funding. Crisis management within an NGO that has gone wrong must make a commitment to integrity, lessons learnt and actually implementing them publicly. Let’s focus on, big or small, our raison d’être.

If everyone else is hopping on the ol’ celebrity charity bandwagon, maybe it’s time for you to get off and find a nonprofit that has a more compelling (and documented) story to tell about why it’s doing what it’s doing and how.

Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth. She can be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au

HCMC Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3844 3295 saigongivral.com

I.D. CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

LE PETIT CAFÉ

FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2067

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

phere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

THINGS CAFE

CAFÉ IF

1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

COBALT

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE GAYA

CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 gayavietnam.com Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

EAT 27 GRILL

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grill-style fare in a refined yet contemporary atmos-

ROOFTOP RESTOBAR Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullman-saigon-centre.com A tapas-style contemporary international menu in an equally modern chic space, Cobalt also has panoramic views over the city thanks to its 30th-floor location. Has a focus on wine matching and tasting. A hotel restaurant with a difference.

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

MAY RESTAURANT

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1277 May-cloud.com Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

MONSOON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)

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HCMC

US-STYLE BARBECUE 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 facebook.com/quanutut It’s a no-brainer, right?

American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA STAR FITNESS GYM

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing services.

HAIR BAR

CONTEMPORARY SALON 68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108 hairbar.vn A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/hairbarvn.

SPA TROPIC STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe

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79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

Nội

Hà

BAKERIES BAKEUP ATELIER

BAKERY 244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8392 The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien, Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries such as croissants, pain au chocolat, pain raisins, pizza dough, pates feuillete and much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Ho Chi Minh City.

VOELKER

BAKERY 39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

BARS & CLUBS BAAN THAI

SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports.

The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL 38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel: 01299 839314 facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill With its seven TVs, full-size

Lộ

Xa

Song Hà

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DISTRICT 2

mezzanine area, pool table and aircon lounge space, BMV is the perfect place in District 2 to relax and watch the sports. Has live music on Thursday and Friday nights, and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in Thao Dien.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

SAIGON OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

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QUAN UT UT

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)

CAT MOC SPA

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Nguyễ

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

& DENTAL

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3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

WE LINK

COUNSELLING 64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

Thao Dien

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ng Hưở yễ n Văn

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

SAN ART

DISTRICT 2 hQ Bìn

Ngu

PARKVIEW

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

district 2

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

g H ư ởn

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

Vă n

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

GALLERIES

treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

Ng uy ễn

Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

Tr

6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

THE FAN CLUB

SPORTS BAR Ground Floor, The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, Q2 dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub 12 quality screens and eight draught beers, music spun

by DJs, excellent burgers, quiz nights and barbecues.

All in an attractive, contemporary environment.

CAFES AGNES CAFE

COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offers a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Now open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed and intimate.

CAFÉ EVITA

LAID-BACK CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 230A Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 3888

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES LITTLE ANH-EM

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

HCMC VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE AUSTIN HOME

REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors.com Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city.

Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.

Pricing depends on size and style.

LAC VIET TATTOO 608

Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com

SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com

SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO

31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net

CHI LAI

HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

GAYA

CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS 3 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9680 gayavietnam.com Set in a typical suburban villa, Gaya sells chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, rugs, lamps, jewellery, scents, bedding, lacquerware and tableware, all in a showroom-style environment designed to give you a sense of how to construct that perfect interior. Also boasts a wine and champagne bar that serves up finger food, both indoors and out front in the garden by the pool.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

TATTOO TAM BI

209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

BOOM BOOM BURGER

US-STYLE BURGER JOINT 2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 532378 boomboomburgers.wago.co A simple and tasty menu similar to that of the US’s InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom Boom has chosen to focus on the fundamentals of the perfect burger — sweet potato fries, jalapeno-infused beef patties and special avocado blends.

LA CLOSERIE D’ELISA

FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT 52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 A tropical garden ambience that is at once French yet contemporary Indochinese is the home of this table d’hote style restaurant and bar. Classic French cuisine at reasonable prices in the heart of Thao Dien.

LU BU

81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com

BAAN THAI

FEELING TROPIC

SAIGON TATTOO GROUP

TATTOO SAIGON

breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Open until 10pm.

EAT AGNES CAFÉ

CAFÉ FARE / TEX-MEX 11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable café offering up a western-fare

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white

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HCMC DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.

Has petanque on the terrace.

DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

AQUAFIT MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.

EL GATO NEGRO Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

LOTTERIA Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

WILLY WOO’S Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon.com US-style chicken and waffles

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

AQUABIKING 65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 008985 aquafit.vn

CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620 laholista.com Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Saigon’s longest running Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a special contemporary menu that brings together a fusion of European dishes, cooked up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook. com/Pendolasco2 for full menu and info.

MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES 26B Thao Dien, Q2 100percentvn.com

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

TAMAGO

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms.

They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

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NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KIDS www.firstBIKE.com.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

SALONS & SPAS AUTHENTIC SPA Thao Dien Village, Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222

AVEDA HERBAL SPA

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

VINO WINE SHOP

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel: 0947 77 13 26 Cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril features the same personalized mentorship Cyril’s clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10. Also has kids activites classes. Monday to Friday every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

WINE SHOP Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines with a portfolio spanning old and new world as well as everything in between.

The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new tipple.

HAIRDRESSERS CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 540030

a dedicated kids salon.

100%

PENDOLASCO

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS 49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

CHEZ GUIDO Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

THE LOOP

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA 126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX Trading Centre 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HCMC ing renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

district 3

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

ACOUSTIC

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars.

Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951

CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS

LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE 224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948 031323

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.

Tel: (08) 39304075 metallicbar.com

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Showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music starts at 8.30pm.

ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822

4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:

SKATEWEAR / STREET 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BOO STREETWEAR 187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 boo.vn CRAFTS

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TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

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Binh Thanh

DISTRICT 3

OPERATION: TEAROOM

(08) 3823 3398

BUD’S

ICE-CREAM PARLOUR 171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn

HIDEAWAY

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seat-

ATC FURNITURE

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 39326455 SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 38403946 atc-craft.com Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living space of your home? Come to ATC FURNITURE, you will find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly materials (water hyacinth & rattan). Our outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A hanging (hammock) chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long day at work.

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HCMC SPORTS

REMIX DECO

INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL

AND

RUGBY

024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com

SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

JOIE DE VIVRE

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com

WESTERN / FRENCH 292/10, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066 facebook.com/joie.vn

SQUASH

PHO HOA

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com

gauloisdesaigon.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com

Contact Fred on 0919 709

BANH CANH HOANG TY

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.

Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

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PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn

VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 vietchay.vn

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY

YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 michelle@michellelloyd.com michellelloyd.com American trained and licensed massage therapist and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and massage spaces in Districts 2 and 3. Private and group yoga classes. Home visits available.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com

HAIRDRESSERS YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791

MEDICAL & DENTAL STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com

SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults.

Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com

HCMC pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children and adult.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

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PANORMA FITNESS

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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS 206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel: 01654 058401 / 01629 546534 cezsaigon@gmail.com

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Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

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219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com

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Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

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EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

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GYM, POOL, SQUASH 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

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DISTRICT 7 BAKERIES L’AMOUR

BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn

SAVOURE

BAKERY Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

SIMRANS

BAKERY SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg

BARS & CLUBS BANANA BAR

EXPAT BAR SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

PEACHES

CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer

MEDICAL & DENTAL AMERICAN EYE CENTER

PHU MY HUNG

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

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INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908 453 338 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service.

Orthodontics is also available.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

South sets this joint apart.

with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more.

A popular local haunt.

RUBY SOHO

CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900

mekong-creations.org

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org

EAT BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

EL GAUCHO

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7355 bellavitafurniture.com

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110; S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758

PAN-VIETNAMESE The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304

MING DYNASTY

LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 5555

NATHALIE’S

THE TAVERN

EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody.

Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

HOANG YEN

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

THAI / VIETNAMESE S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0822 nathaliesrestaurant.com

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL

GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not presently available in Saigon

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn. com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience.

The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments.

Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

FV HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969

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Du Thuyền

Bạn làm gì vào dịp Năm Mới ? Một câu hỏi hằng năm trong mỗi dịp này.

Nick Ross may mắn đã trải qua ngày đó ở ngoài khơi bờ biển Malaysia

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ãy thử tham gia chuyến đi trên du thuyền 2,000 hành khách của Ý, trụ sở ở Singapore với nhân viên là người Châu Á. Đây chính xác là hình thức mà công ty Costa đang áp dụng với chiếc du thuyền Costa Victoria của mình, và với hình thức như thế, họ đang hoạt động kinh doanh trong một thị trường hoàn toàn mới — một thị trường lớn nhất thế giới.

Du lịch bằng du thuyền không mới mẻ trong Đông Nam Á. Trong nhiều thập kỷ, những chiếc thuyền cỡ lớn trên khắp địa cầu thường tụ tập tại các cảng biển lớn nhất của khu vực. Nhưng điều mới lạ là ở nhóm hành khách. Trước đây, hành khách hầu hết chỉ là những người Châu Âu, Bắc Mỹ và Úc lớn tuổi làm cho các cảng biển khu vực này đông đúc. Nhưng với khả năng

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chịu chi tiêu hơn, người Châu Á giờ đây cũng đã tham gia thú tiêu khiển này. Trong chuyến tàu tôi đi vào dịp Năm Mới vừa rồi, số lượng hành khách hầu hết là người Châu Á. Nhưng thú vị hơn là độ tuổi của nhóm hành khách này. Không chỉ có người lớn tuổi. Ở đây mọi người đều đi nghỉ cùng với gia đình.

Chuyến đi của tôi là chuyến đi của báo chí — tất cả chúng tôi gồm 19 người từ Việt Nam. Chúng tôi cũng đi cùng gia đình mình. Thỏa thuận rất đơn giản. Chúng tôi mua vé bay tới Singapore, nơi mà chúng tôi sẽ được thuyền đón cũng như trả về. Tất cả còn lại là Costa sẽ lo.

Không hẳn là như thế — tất cả mọi thứ được sắp xếp lại với nhau một cách nhanh chóng đến nỗi có một sai sót nhỏ trong tổ chức. Nhưng có rất nhiều điểm nổi bật trong chuyến đi của

chúng tôi như Phuket, Langkawi và Penang trước khi quay trở về Singapore, chuyến đi năm ngày trên chiếc tàu bình thường nhưng sang trọng 18 tuổi này là một chuyến đi đáng nhớ. Thậm chí hệ thống âm thanh cứ phát đi phát lại bài Jingle Bells và Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer, thể hiện thành tâm hướng về Giáng Sinh của Costa, cái thành tâm đầy kinh nghiệm. Tôi tự hỏi liệu họ có đổi nhạc sau đêm giao thừa. Và họ không thay đổi.

Snapshots

Một trong những kỷ niệm đẹp nhất là ngày chúng tôi đến Phuket — chúng tôi cập bến ở bãi biển Patong. Tôi đã trông đợi tám tiếng đồng hồ trên đất liền sẽ giúp tôi đối diện với những thứ tôi không thích khi du lịch tại Thái Lan. Vâng, nó đã giúp.

Patong là bản sao của làng Kuta ở Bali. Cùng ý tưởng ở hai đất nước khác nhau — ngoại trừ du khách ồn ào ở đây là những người Nga. Nhưng với một ít thời gian khám phá, có một chút cảm giác phiêu lưu khi chúng tôi đi dạo quanh thị trấn, và khi quan sát mọi người trên biển. Nơi này phù hợp cho chuyến tham quan một ngày.

Sáng hôm sau, chúng tôi thức dậy khi mặt trời soi rõ vùng đảo Langkawi. Đó là ngày có thời tiết đẹp nhất trong chuyến đi của chúng tôi. Với bầu trời trong xanh trên cao, vùng đất nhiệt đới này cùng cảnh biển của nó khác xa trên tấm bưu thiếp. So với thời tiết u ám mưa nhiều trong ngày đầu tiên, chuyến đi giờ đây trở nên sống động.

Vào ngày đầu năm, chúng tôi đến Georgetown, ở Penang. Chỉ còn vài thành phố

trong khu vực Đông Nam Á có thể phù hợp với kiến trúc thuộc địa cũ, nền văn hóa đa dạng và thực phẩm đường phố của chính nó. Quay trở lại đây lần đầu tiên sau 15 năm, tôi đã rất ngạc nhiên khi phát hiện mình đang đi đi lại lại 20km xung quanh khu vực trung tâm của thành phố.

Sau khi tiêu thụ nhiều thức ăn trên tàu, tôi cần tập thể dục.

Giây phút đăng quang, mặc dù, là đêm trước — đêm giao thừa. Khi bạn thực sự không biết những người bạn đang ở cùng là ai, đêm giao thừa này có thể trở thành dịp hoàn hảo để kết bạn và phá vỡ các rào cản; chúng tôi đã quậy phá tưng bừng. Ngay cả những đứa trẻ cũng tham gia với chúng tôi, đổi nước ngọt lấy bia trong các trò chơi ngẫu hứng của chúng. Được dẫn dắt bởi đội ngũ nhân viên giải trí

của Costa, con tàu đã nổ tung khi giao thừa lúc kim đồng hồ chỉ số 12. Tất cả mọi người — từ Philippines, Indonesia, Trung Quốc, Nhật Bản, Ý , Việt Nam — đã cùng hòa mình vào bài hát và khiêu vũ. Ôm lấy bạn bè, cả với người lạ, uống champagne, nhảy múa, ca hát , rồi nhiều cái ôm hơn, rượu sâm banh nhiều hơn. Trong một khoảnh khắc ngắn, tất cả rào cản đã được đặt sang một bên.

Nó thật tuyệt vời. Để biết thêm chi tiết về các chuyến đi của Costa Victoria, xin ghé costacruisesasia.com.

Hiện tại công ty tổ chức chuyến tàu 4 ngày từ Thượng Hải trong tháng 3. Chuyến tàu này sẽ bỏ neo tại Nhật Bản và Hàn Quốc. Giá vé phòng ở bao gồm ba bữa ăn là US$579 (12.2 triệu) cho một người.

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Câu Chuyện của Bia Hơi Được coi là đồ uống được ưa chuộng bậc nhất ở Việt Nam, bia hơi có khởi nguồn từ thời kỳ chiến tranh chống Mỹ.

Hoa Lê gặp gỡ nhà báo Nguyễn Ngọc Tiến, tác giả của cuốn sách “Đi Ngang Hà Nội” để tìm hiểu về đồ uống nổi tiếng này của Việt Nam. Ảnh bởi Glen Riley.

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ói đến đô thị ở Việt Nam tức là nói tới xe máy, những tòa nhà cao tầng mỏng dính, đồ ăn trên đường phố, và tất nhiên là có cả bia hơi. Là một loại bia không qua thanh trùng và thêm chất bảo quản, được bán trực tiếp từ thùng lớn, bia hơi được ưa chuộng bởi rất nhiều người, từ tầng lớp trí thức tới những người bán hàng trên đường phố.

Tuy vậy, người ta thường nói bia hơi là đồ uống của người Hà Nội. Có lẽ một phần bởi đây là nơi đầu tiên loại đồ uống có cồn này xuất hiện, và một phần khác bởi nó đặc biệt phổ biến ở đây. Ta có thể bắt gặp quán bia hơi ở mọi ngóc ngách ở thủ đô.

Thời trẻ, nhà báo Nguyễn Ngọc Tiến thường lui tới các quán bia hơi để giao lưu với bạn bè mình.

Anh có một niềm yêu mến với loại đồ uống này với những giá trị văn hóa của nó và đã dành một chương đặc biệt để viết về bia và bia hơi trong cuốn sách Đi Ngang Hà Nội.

Từ Rượu tới Bia hơi

Văn hóa uống bia ở Việt Nam bắt nguồn từ những năm cuối thế kỷ 19, lúc đó nhà máy bia đầu tiên được người Pháp xây dựng với tên gọi Hommel – tiền thân của Nhà máy Bia Hà Nội hiện nay (Habeco). Trong một thời gian dài, nhà máy ở phố Hoàng Hoa Thám này là nơi duy nhất cung cấp bia cho Hà Nội – tuy nhiên khách hàng chủ yếu ở thời kỳ này của nhà máy là những sỹ quan người Pháp.

Trước khi có bia, người Việt Nam chủ yếu uống rượu. Tới khi gạo trở nên khan hiếm, người ta sản xuất rượu từ sắn khoai. Vào khoảng lớn thời gian trong thế kỷ 20, rất ít người bản xứ uống bia. Người ta coi đó là một loại đồ uống đăng đắng, có người còn nói nó có vị gì đó hơi khai.

Tuy vậy, mọi việc thay đổi vào những năm đầu thập kỷ 60. Nhà sử học đã khuất Đào Hùng có lần đã nói về thời kỳ này như sau: “Trong thời kháng chiến chống Mỹ, để đảm bảo sản lượng gạo cho người dân, người ta cấm dùng gạo để nấu rượu vì không thể để lãng phí thực phẩm vào một loại đồ uống có cồn như thế.”

Nhưng việc cấm nấu rượu dẫn tới sự thịnh hành của bia, một loại đồ uống du nhập từ phương tây.

Có lẽ người ta luôn cần một loại đồ uống có men trong cuộc sống.

Những năm đó, Habeco bắt đầu sản xuất những loại bia có chất lượng cao và đưa sản phẩm của họ vào tiêu thụ ở miền Nam. Chủ tịch Hồ Chí Minh

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trong một lần tới thăm nhà máy đã khuyến khích đầu tư sản xuất bia cho xuất khẩu. Đây cũng là giai đoạn bia hơi ra đời, với giá thành rẻ - trước tiên để phục vụ nhu cầu của những người thuộc tầng lớp bình dân.

“Lý do cho sự xuất hiện của bia hơi cũng đơn giản thôi,” anh Tiến nói. “Trong thời chiến, người ta thiếu thốn nguyên liệu để sản xuất vỏ chai thủy tinh. Các điểm bán bia thì ở Hà Nội, gần ngay nhà máy. Người ta nghĩ bia chai vừa mất vỏ chai, vừa thêm giá thành nên người ta làm ra bia hơi.”

Khi đã đóng vào bom, bia hơi vẫn tiếp tục lên men trong quá trình vận chuyển tới các quán trong thành phố. Người dân ở đây cũng rất nhanh chóng bị chinh phục bởi loại đồ uống này.

Anh Tiến kể thời gian đó, bia hơi sản xuất tại các nhà máy có mùi thơm nhẹ, rất dễ chịu. Bia cũng có nhiều bọt trắng, khi uống đến giọt cuối cùng, bọt vẫn còn bám vào thành cốc.

Chuyện xếp hàng, những chiếc cốc vại và cả đầu sư tử

Vào những năm 60, phần lớn những người uống bia đều ở lứa tuổi trung niên – thanh niên trẻ tuổi hơn thường không có tiền để uống. Trước những cửa hàng mậu dịch thời bao cấp, những người muốn mua bia thường phải xếp thành hàng dài.

Người ta phải hét khản cổ và có khi mất cả tiếng đồng hồ để có thể mua được một cốc bia. Thỉnh thoảng, người ta nghe thấy giọng những cô bán sang sảng mắng người mua bia: “Lộn xộn và mất trật tự là tôi không bán đâu nhé!”

Các quán bia ở Cổ Tân (phường Tràng Tiền hiện nay), Nguyễn Biểu, Cầu Giấy, Thủy Tạ, Mơ, Vọng, Hàng Bài,... bao giờ cũng đông khách. Khi nhu cầu uống bia hơi nhiều lên, nhiều quán còn yêu cầu khách hàng mua kèm với các đồ dùng khác, và cũng vì thèm bia, người ta luôn chấp nhận. Anh Tiến kể, những năm 70, một số quán kết hợp với cửa hàng bách hóa, bán bia kèm với những thứ hàng tồn ế. Có nơi bán bia hơi kèm lạc rang, có nơi lại bán kèm rau muống, và cả đồ chơi cho trẻ con nữa.

Trong cuốn sách của mình, anh Tiến viết: “chuyện là tháng 10-1974, bách hóa Quán Thánh bán đầu sư tử cho trẻ em vui chơi Trung thu nhưng bán không hết đã kết hợp với bia Nguyễn Biểu tiêu thụ nốt chỗ “sư tử” ế. Mua bốn cốc kèm một đầu sư tử loại nhỏ, sáu cốc kèm đầu sư tử loại lớn… Hôm đó quán bia giống như cơ sở sản xuất đồ chơi, chật ních đầu sư tử”.

Khi đó, các món nhắm với bia cũng không đa dạng như bây giờ, nhưng cũng rất đặc sắc. Nào là lạc rang, nộm, đậu phụ chấm mắm tôm, và cả ốc luộc nữa – tất cả đều là những món nhắm được ưa chuộng. Một số món được bán ngay trong quán,

nhưng thường không ngon bằng những bà bán trên vỉa hè hay hàng rong gần đó.

Trong thời gian này, món thịt chó cũng bắt đầu trở nên phổ biến ở các quán bia hơi. Anh Tiến kể, thời anh đi học thường phải bắt xe buýt tuyến từ Nhổn ra, cứ buổi sáng là gặp những người buôn thịt chó trên xe.

“Họ trải thịt chó từ đầu xe tới cuối xe. Khi xe buýt dừng ở bến trên phố Phan Chu Trinh, họ tỏa ra, lấy xe đạp đã gửi sẵn ở đó và mang thịt chó đi giao khắp nơi trong thành phố, ở cả các quán bia hơi nữa,” anh Tiến kể.

Câu chuyện về những chiếc cốc vại để uống bia hơi cũng khá thú vị. Đầu tiên, người ta dùng những chiếc cốc thủy tinh to 500ml sần sùi vì được tái chế từ những mảnh thủy tinh vỡ.

Những chiếc cốc này có màu trắng xanh, ở lớp thủy tinh bên trong vẫn còn cả bọt khí. Ở thời kỳ chiến tranh khi việc sản xuất ra cốc thủy tinh gặp khó khăn, người ta chuyển sang dùng cốc bằng gốm, sứ. Nhưng chúng dày và nặng quá, gây khó khăn cho những người bưng bê, cũng chính vì thế người ta bắt đầu gọi chúng là cốc vại, để chỉ sự nặng nề của chúng. Đến đầu những năm 70, những chiếc cốc thủy tinh được sử dụng lại, nhưng với thể tích nhỏ hơn, khoảng 300ml. Từ ‘cốc vại’, tuy thế, vẫn được sử dụng để chỉ những chiếc cốc dùng để uống bia hơi này.

Ngày nay tại một số nhà hàng như Backyard Bia Hơi (một quán khá nổi tiếng trên đường Quảng Khánh, quận Tây Hồ) cũng sử dụng cốc vại để phục vụ bia hơi như một sự gợi nhớ thú vị về khoảng thời gian bao cấp ở Việt Nam.

Bia hơi ngày nay

Mặc dù các quán bia hơi xuất hiện ở khắp nơi trên Việt Nam ngày nay, nó vẫn được coi là một đồ uống đặc biệt của Hà Nội. Các quán bia có ở khắp các khu phố, người trẻ tuổi thì thường tụ tập ở khu vực phố cổ để vừa uống, vừa gặp gỡ bạn bè và ngắm người qua lại.

Bây giờ anh Tiến không còn thói quen đi uống bia hơi như trước kia nữa. Anh cho rằng bia hơi đã mất đi hương vị thuở đầu tiên của nó bởi vì nhiều quán bây giờ đã trộn nó với các loại bia chất lượng thấp hay cả những loại bia cỏ được làm thủ công bởi các hộ gia đình.

“Bia bây giờ ở đâu cũng như nhau,” anh nói. “Nó không có vị thơm như ngày trước. Chỉ có vị lạnh và một chút men. Thế thôi.” Đối với anh, loại bia hơi ngon nhất đã thuộc về quá khứ. Khi đó người ta uống cũng văn minh hơn, chậm rãi, không ồn ào và rất ít khi thấy có người say.

“Thời đó cũng làm gì có nhiều bia để uống, lấy đâu ra để say,” anh nói.

31

CHO TỚI, THÁNG 3

MANZI ART KÊU GỌI

Các nghệ sỹ trẻ Việt Nam, Manzi cần các bạn!

Một trong những không gian nghệ thuật đầu tiên của Hà Nội đang tìm kiếm các ý tưởng triển lãm cá nhân hay theo nhóm, từ nay đến hết 31/3. Không giới hạn — không đưa các ý tưởng đã được triển lãm trước đây, tuổi không quá 40, bạn nên biết điều này trước là không được nhàm chán. Là nơi độc lập điều hành nghệ thuật, Manzi khuyến khích sự đa dạng, sáng tạo và hợp tác sáng tạo trong nghệ thuật và văn hóa. Ứng viên trúng tuyển sẽ có cơ hội để làm việc với đội ngũ Manzi để phát triển hơn nữa và được nhận tiền thưởng cho các tác phẩm nghệ thuật khi triển lãm, sẽ diễn ra trong năm nay tại Manzi.

Manzi cũng sẽ cung cấp địa điểm tổ chức triển lãm cho các ứng viên thành công, các kế hoạch quảng bá và tiền sản xuất. Để biết chi tiết hoặc nộp tác phẩm, xin liên hệ manzihanoi@gmail.com, hoặc ghé 14 Phan Huy Ích, Ba Đình , Hà Nội

10-11

THÁNG 2

MÙA ĐÔNG CỦA LÝ

Ca sĩ kiêm nhạc sĩ, Lê Cát Trọng Lý, sẽ biểu diễn những ca khúc mùa đông của mình tại Manzi vào ngày 10 và 11 tháng 2, với phần đệm của nghệ sỹ vĩ cầm Thanh Tú và bộ tứ đàn dây.

Là nghệ sỹ hàng đầu của âm nhạc dân gian đương đại ở Việt Nam, Lý kết hợp ảnh hưởng phương Tây với âm nhạc truyền thống Việt Nam. Với âm nhạc và lời bài hát đặc biệt, nàng nhạc sĩ Đà Nẵng là hóa thân hiện đại của Trịnh Công Sơn, người thường gọi là Bob Dylan của Việt Nam. Để đặt chỗ, xin gọi đường dây nóng của Manzi theo số 0947 935042 trước ngày 5/2 hoặc email về manzihanoi@gmail.com. Manzi Art Space nằm tại 14 Phan Huy Ích, Ba Đình , Hà Nội

11 THỨ TƯ, THÁNG 2 NÉT VẼ TỪ SÀI GÒN XƯA

L' usine đang đi tổ chức một triển lãm cá nhân của nghệ sĩ địa phương Lê Hưng Trọng, một bộ sưu tập gồm 20 hình vẽ và màu nước từ cuốn sách sắp tới của anh Sài Gòn Xưa. Những bức vẽ là kỷ niệm của Sài Hòn hỗn loạn và quyến rũ, hoài niệm các địa điểm và hình ảnh đặc bị lãng quên . Người tham quan sẽ có được bản sao cuốn sách của anh, đánh dấu buổi ra mắt đầu tiên.

Tiệc mở màn cho triển lãm Sài Gòn Xưa của Lê Hưng Trọng sẽ được tổ chức tại L' usine Đồng Khởi, 151/1 Đồng Khởi, Q1, từ 18:00 đến 21:00. Để xem thông tin các sự kiện khác với, xin ghé saigonsaigon. weebly.com

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 183

The final say THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War Chapter 5: Of Arsenals and Hospitals For the next 11 issues, Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchett’s seminal account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s.

This work was written in 1964

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A Jungle Arms Factory “We started up in 1960 and our only raw materials were bits of soap iron and some powder from unexploded bombs. At that time, we had only one department; now we have 10. Then we thought we were performing miracles to produce 15 grenades a month; now we produce 5,000.”

He was a tall, gaunt and balding Vietnamese; around me workers in aprons and with white masks over their faces were ramming powder into anti-personnel mines; working spiral presses that jammed wooden handles neatly into hand grenades; grinding in queer, canoe-shaped receptacles caked in gunpowder from bombs into a fine variety for grenades, mixing and sifting powder as if we were in a bakery instead of a jungle arsenal. A mademoiselle was buzzing around overhead. If she could only have seen what I was looking at! But the jungle is kind to its friends.

“At first we had no skilled workers,” continued my informant, the director of the arsenal. “But we trained peasants, some of whom can now be regarded as skilled workers. Gradually we developed and expanded until now we can to a certain extent meet the Front’s requirements in this region. In the process of production, we also trained cadres who now head the various departments. Imbued with the spirit of struggle against the enemy, the morale of workers and cadres is higher every day.

Some specialised workers have come from Saigon to help us.”

He handed me a couple of aluminium beer mugs, inscribed with my name and that of my host organisation, the Quartermaster General’s Department of the Liberation Army. “They are made from rocket cylinders,” he said. “We have no primary raw materials, so we gather all the soap available from the enemy: plane parts, bits of bombs and rockets — the beer mug handles are from napalm bomb canisters — wrecked trucks, bridge railings, bits of railway track, any metal we can get hold of.

The population do their best for us — look at these brass incense burners an old woman brought us the other day.”

I stopped to watch a welder in a masked, steel helmet, welding fins on to rifle grenades and followed the acetylene gas line to the parent machine. It was marked: ‘Portaweld-Onan, Minneapolis’, and also bore the clasped hands of AmericanVietnamese ‘friendship’. “Yes,” the director said, “we cannot complain about the quality of US machinery. If they had come to our country only with machines like these instead of their planes and tanks, it would have been better for us all.”

Every worker had his own weapon alongside him at his workbench. They were keen, smiling young chaps, obviously and justifiably proud of their productions. It

was pleasant again to hear the humming of machinery; to hear mechanical noises that were not from the adversary’s planes or gunboats. One of the impressive sights was a long line of Saigon watchmakers, lenses sewed into their eyes, heads bent low over delicate springs and coils of copper, and fine magnetised wire for various delayed action fuses. Later I was to hear a Voice of America transcript of a McNamara press conference in which the US Defense Secretary cited as “absolute proof” of intervention from North Vietnam, “the appearance in South Vietnam of more sophisticated types of mines, including some naval mines and others with delayed action fuses”. I saw these “more sophisticated” types of weapons in serial production in the jungle arsenal.

The laboratories and the building housing the chemical processes for explosives manufacture were spotlessly clean, the bamboo huts lined with US parachute nylon.

In one such hut, girls with delicate balances were weighing the miniscule quantity of explosives necessary for various types of detonator caps and one 15-year-old lad was in charge of an improvised machine for

fitting the detonator caps into the cartridges.

The director assured me there had not been a single accident at the plant.

“The increase from 15 to 5,000 grenades a month since 1960 is typical of a very rapid increase in all departments, every year,” the director said, as I took my leave. “And we will continue to expand our activities at this tempo.”

Field Hospitals The rapid expansion of arms production was typical of the rapid expansion in every field of the Front’s war effort. One of the most remarkable results was in the medical field.

A typical frontline hospital which I visited did not look very different from an ordinary hamlet at first — the same bamboo huts each consisting of barely more than a steep, overhanging palm roof supported by poles and a waist-high, pleated bamboo outer wall, designed to give maximum shade and air. In fact, each hut was a ‘ward’, and one slightly bigger and more enclosed than the others was the operating theatre.

Ceilings of the wards, and ceilings and walls of the operating rooms, dispensary and

“We have no primary raw materials, so we gather [everything] available from the enemy: plane parts, bits of bombs and rockets, wrecked trucks, bridge railings, bits of railway track, any metal we can get hold of”

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 185

“‘We cannot complain about the quality of US machinery. If they had come to our country only with machines like these instead of their planes and tanks, it would have been better for us all’” outpatients’ clinic, were lined with white parachute nylon.

In the first ward I visited there were three patients. One was a rubber plantation worker who had been shot in the neck by Saigon troops while he was making his normal morning rounds collecting latex from the rubber trees. The bullet had been removed and he was “doing fine”. Another was a middle-aged woman who had been wounded in the stomach with a grenade burst. Sections of intestine and part of her liver had to be removed and she was still very weak.

The third, a young guerilla lad, had lost one hand and part of another in a tragic accident with a grenade only two days previously. In a nightmare he had imagined his hamlet was under attack and reaching for his grenade pulled out the pin and was just about to throw it when he woke up. Realising he would probably kill his comrades if he threw it, he held on to it, plunging his hands under some bags of rice alongside his bed. By a miracle, only his

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hands suffered. One and part of the other had to be amputated. He was still suffering from shock.

This was a real frontline area; alongside each building were air-raid shelters, including those wide enough to take stretcher cases. It was an area subject to almost daily bombings, nightly shellings and frequent ‘mopping up’ raids.

“During 1963,” said Dr. Tran, the surgeon in charge, “we handled 247 surgical cases.

They included stomach, head, chest and limb surgery; the results were 98 percent positive.” Apart from Dr. Tran there were four medical assistants, with two years’ medical college training, and nine nursing sisters. The hospital had been set up in late 1960.

“At that time,” reminisced Dr. Tran, a short, energetic man with a thick stubble of hair and sensitive, square-tipped fingers, “there were only three nursing sisters in this whole district, no other medical worker.

Now in the district we have 13 medical assistants, 105 nursing sisters, 120 nurses,

13 midwives and 52 assistant midwives.

The Front tries to have at least one sister for each hamlet.” I visited a medical school attached to his hospital where 36 nurses and 15 midwife trainees were being given sixmonth accelerated training courses.

Later I was to visit a much larger unit, referred to by Dr. Ky, who was in charge, as a ‘regimental hospital’. The buildings were much larger, but still of pleated bamboo walls and palm leaf roofs. It had also been set up in 1960 but was enlarged and modernised in 1962, when Dr. Ky took over.

I asked about equipment and medical supplies: “Of course, we are short of some things,” he said. “But on the surgical side, things have improved a lot since our lads captured a portable X-Ray unit.” (I inspected it later, it was made by Picker of Cleveland, Ohio.)

“We use plenty of penicillin and streptomycin, despite the enemy’s blockade of medical supplies,” said Dr. Ky, “but we also use a lot of oriental medicine which we can produce from local products. Our

snake-bite antidote, for instance, is more effective than any western one.”

— There is an especially deadly snake in many parts of South Vietnam, similar to the Australian death adder; not more than a foot long, it jumps at its victims. Within three minutes one is paralysed and in two hours dead. The Liberation Front chemists have developed an antidote in tablet form, and every guerilla carries two as part of standard equipment. I always slept with one of these in a handy position for immediate application and was warned never to stray far from my hammock at night and constantly to use a flashlight — Among substitutes for western medicines, Dr. Ky cited hemoglobin serum in injectable form, obtained from buffalo and pigs; a substance from tiger bones which acted as a powerful stimulant in cases of prolonged weakness; an extract from the placenta of new-born buffalo calves, good for malaria and rheumatism.

I asked what was the average time in his area for medical treatment during a military operation. “Any casualty,” replied

Dr. Ky, “can count on first-aid treatment at a company medical station within 30 minutes of being wounded; within one hour he receives first surgical attention at battalion level, and within two hours fundamental surgery at regimental level.

Only exceptionally serious cases have to be sent back to the main hospital; normally the frontline hospitals can handle everything that comes their way. Dr. Ky estimated that once the wounded got into the hands of the medical staff, over 90 percent are saved.

He was especially proud of two brain surgery cases and insisted on my seeing them. Both had had bullets removed from the brain; both had been completely paralysed in half their body. Now, the first one operated on is walking around and talking normally, the other one is able to move and Dr. Ky was certain that he would also be walking soon.

Such results are obviously possible only with a very high standard of surgery and post-operational care, difficult to associate with the primitive appearance of the

hospital buildings. The hospital had its own pharmaceutical section where various medicines were being prepared in liquid, pill and in edible forms. Dr. Ky explained that part of the medicines came from a central pharmaceutical department which was run by the Committee for Public Health.

Later, I was able to meet Dr. Ho Thu, a French-trained pharmaceutical chemist, who was a member of the Liberation Front’s Central Committee — a modest, greying scientist who, other Presidium members assured me, had “performed miracles” in producing medical supplies. He astonished me by saying that the Front now produces 70 percent of its own medical requirements.

“This had been possible,” he said, “because we made a careful study of traditional oriental medicine and based ourselves on the great wealth of our forest products. In some fields we have surprised ourselves. For instance, we have been able to solve the question of flesh and bone gangrene.” When I asked how, he smiled and said: “We are keeping this a secret,

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“Medical attention is free in the liberated zones and it was interesting to learn… that many people come from the Saigon-controlled areas, including from Saigon itself, come to have treatment in the liberated areas” because we consider this a source of national wealth for the future. I can only say that it is based on a forest product. It was only when we made a proper inventory of local vegetable, animal and forest products and checked these off against ancient oriental medical manuals, that we realised how rich we were.”

Dr. Thu said they maintained big stocks of serums and vaccines and always had enough on hand to halt any ‘normal’ epidemics of typhus, smallpox, cholera, etc. Thanks to this, and speedy action, they had halted a recent cholera epidemic that had started in Saigon, and which the authorities there had confidently hoped would spread into the liberated zones.

“As for malaria,” continued Dr. Thu, “this has always been a major problem in the South Vietnam countryside. But we have waged a big campaign against it and the percentage is down enormously. It is down to five percent in even former seriously

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infested regions and we hope to reduce this still further — to eradicate it completely, in fact — by using our local resources and the full cooperation we get from the local population.”

Medical attention is free in the liberated zones and it was interesting to learn, and to confirm on several occasions, that many people come from the Saigon-controlled areas, including from Saigon itself, to have treatment in the liberated areas. This was especially striking during the 1964 cholera epidemic in Saigon when tens of thousands of people came to get their anti-cholera injections in the liberated zones.

“This is not just because our service is free,” Dr. Thu explained. “People appreciate the professionally responsible attitude and the devotion of our medical cadres who are trained to serve the people. The main line in the liberated zones, as far as public health is concerned, is to concentrate on social hygiene and preventive medicine, in raising

living standards and introducing modem notions of hygiene to the peasantry.”

Considering the small lapse of time and great difficulties, concluded Dr. Ho Thu, “very rapid progress has been made in the development of the pharmaceutical industry, in the training of medical cadres and the setting up of hospital and public health facilities.”

Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter often described at the ‘rebel journalist’ for his stories about the American War ‘from the other side’. After years of being at odds with the Australian government, last year the Melbourne Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame.

Burchett was also the journalist who broke the scoop of the 20th century — the devastation caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing us to republish this work. Please note that some place names in this piece have been changed to reflect their modern-day spelling

wordvietnam.com | February 2015 Word | 189

The final say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Falling Off the Wagon It’s a common New Year’s resolution — go a month or so without drinking.

Jon Aspin took on the challenge... sort of

I

t’s easy giving up beer for a month. I’m doing it right now.

But no one serious just gives up beer for a month. It’s a cop out, because you can still get blackout drunk without it. In fact beer is the least efficient tool when it comes to this, too many carbs taking up space for the stuff that gets the job done properly — the booze. At best it deserves credit for being a good gateway. But no, serious people don’t give up beer, they give up alcohol entirely.

Sometimes it works out — your trial separation is a success. When it’s over you gain a newfound respect for the relationship, and promise not to hurt each other again.

You declare your love openly once more and consume an entire bottle of expensive Australian red wine. It’s not abusive if it costs a lot of money right?

At other times, you fail miserably. You even use the term ‘failed miserably’ when you tell the story of your latest go at abstinence, then giggle at all the fun you had while not being particularly sober.

This month, I’ve been attempting to do exactly that, remain sober, and at the same time write this column. I’d agreed to write it during my annual comedown from Christmas — an F&B bender of the highest order — so I’ve been seeking some inspiration without the assistance of booze.

It eventually came from my colleagues — who, for this issue’s cover story about beer, were arranging cool stuff like blind tastings in convenience stores and photo shoots with promo girls.

However, their serious journalistic approach to the topic left me feeling intellectually dwarfed. How was I going to match up to girls in tight uniforms? Where would I find similar pearls they’d be getting from beer men in Circle K? I had to come up with something special. That’s when I decided to give up drinking.

Temptation I knew it wouldn’t be easy in this city — a place where you’re never more than 50

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metres from the next opportunity to get smashed. Almost immediately I was offered free beer at a restaurant I sometimes go to. Not wanting to cause offence to my host, I quickly reassigned the gift to the table of tourists next to me.

It was clear that I needed to set up some safety nets to keep me on task. That’s when I started telling people.

The reactions I received varied, a mixture of who cares, surprise and disbelief. “You’re doing what? Why?” they asked, sipping drinks in the bars I still went to. (And a note on this; awkwardly ordering three Sprites and seven ice teas in bars, as your drinking buddies’ conversations get louder and stupider, is a pretty exhausting experience.) I even stayed up all night dancing at T&R, completely and utterly straight.

Others were congratulatory, some laughed out loud, a couple questioned my sexuality.

One guy went even further, pouring vodka into an orange juice I had, just so he could ruin my streak. What a champ.

VIP = Very Intoxicated Person Despite temptation — and there have been many in a month including Australia Day and the usual number of weekends — I started off strong. A massive four days in and I wasn’t missing the drink at all. Go me.

After a week I felt a noticeable difference. No instant six-pack yet, but my head was clear and I felt more productive than ever. With my confidence soaring, I believed I could do it, but that’s when my sober world came crashing down.

How did it happen? In hindsight, accepting a VIP invite to a Vietnamese nightclub wasn’t the smartest thing to do.

My colleague had invited me and I was determined to keep on living, despite my crippling condition. Arriving at the club I thought I could do it sober, but as soon as we entered I knew that my streak was

done. There was no way I was not going to have a drink in this place.

Apart from being a luminous screaming baby of a nightclub, the same sense of not wanting to offend anyone that had happened at my friend’s restaurant happened here. When complimentary bottles of Belvedere vodka are put in front of you, then management starts pouring it out, the expectation to drink is pretty high.

I could've said no, but I felt too bad for them — we were the only ones there.

From that point things became a blur. One bottle became two, some shots were had and cocktails were bought and consumed.

Fruit bowls were inhaled, sheeshas were smoked, my date turned up and I couldn’t believe how well we were being treated.

Caught up in the hedonism and high quality alcohol, and possibly accentuated by my week-long abstinence, when I got home, I hit that pillow and passed the hell out.

Broken Promises The next morning I knew I’d broken a promise to myself, but I’d felt there was a sense of duty about it — my nightclub blowout had been justified. The owners had splashed out on me, and I had delivered them a guy who had had a good time, encouraging the others in my party to do the same.

Sure, I was weak, I’d 'failed miserably' in my mission to remain sober for a month. Tempting as it was to see it as a depressing allegory for my life — do I not have any strength of character? —the fact remained that no one got hurt and everyone left the place happy.

So my streak ended, lasting just seven days. However, as in life my goals were re-adjusted, and to this point I still haven’t had a beer during January. I’ve wanted one, sure, and my mates are still confused, but I’ve held firm.

That nightclub was f*#king funny though.

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The last call Vietnam’s beer industry has grown in fits and starts — a home-brew here, a beer club there, a draft beer somewhere else. Now, Pasteur Street Brewing Company is bringing Vietnam its first Americanstyle craft brewery, and Alex Violette is the man shaking the kegs. Photo by Francis Xavier At Upslope [the Boulder, Colorado brewery where Alex was head brewer], we… had close relationships with our craft beer

community. It was never just about our business, but promoting the craft beer industry as a whole.

There were so many clusters of breweries located in the same town and we all appreciated one another. Collaboration beers became popular because of this and always started with two brewers sharing ideas over a pint.

Meeting John [Reid, six-year Saigon expat and partner in Pasteur Street] was… spur of the moment. He was in Colo-

rado in June looking for a brewer, and came into Upslope while my girlfriend, Bethany, was working behind the bar. After hearing about his idea for Pasteur Street, she wanted to introduce us in the hope I could help him find someone for the job. The idea became more intriguing the more I found out about it. Just two days after meeting John, Bethany and I decided to move to Saigon and start a new adventure.

Moving from the centre of the craft beer universe to Saigon has been… a refreshing experience. We weren’t sure what to expect from the market out here but we have seen a surprisingly high demand for craft beer. There has been massive support for Pasteur Street and we have been selling out of beer every weekend!

In the production phase, we’ll add... bottling for export. Many of the ingredients we use are not readily available elsewhere in the world. Our plan is to deliver these flavours through our beers.

The creation we’re most proud of is... the imperial stout infused with fresh cacao nibs. It is by far the best chocolate beer I have ever brewed. When I had previously brewed beers with chocolate, there was no choice of which chocolate nibs you could use. I could only find one supplier and they just sold ‘nibs’.

Here we were able to source fresh, local nibs from Lam Dong Province. You can really taste the difference.

The local ingredient I’m most excited about is... whatever fruits are in season!

As soon as we enter our production phase I will begin brewing beers and ageing them anywhere from six months to a year using a unique strain of yeast. After ageing, they will be infused with local fruits.

Bia hoi is... the great beer drinking culture

that Vietnam is well known for. It comes down to the idea of sitting with friends and throwing back a few pints.

My favourite mass-produced domestic beer is... best served with ice! Prior to

coming to Vietnam I had never considered putting ice in my beer. Now, I don’t think I can go back (for adjunct lagers at least).

Pasteur Street will be place-specific to Vietnam in... the flavour of and inspiration for our beers. Our beers focus on using local fruits, herbs, spices, coffee, chocolate or whatever else we can find. Food has always been a source of inspiration for the flavour of beer, and we will continue in those footsteps.

In Vietnam’s future, we see craft beer becoming... a fun option for beer

lovers who live and travel here. The intention of craft beer is to welcome those who appreciate the flavours without forcing them upon anyone.