Word Vietnam January 2016 by Word Vietnam

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 1 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

e h T ative e r e C Issu

Contents Jan. 2016

THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / The Chance to be Vietnamese

46 / Saigon’s Grand Old Ad Man

Is it time to get citizenship?

011 / The Big Five

Events to look out for this month

BRIEFINGS 12 / The Mui Ne Music & Arts Festival

96 / Sketches of Hanoi

The capital through the end of a pen

A portrait of Australian designer, Rick Reid

102 / Edible Art

48 / Jay Rao

EAT & DRINK

It’s not just the Hollywood filmmakers that are in town

52 / The Creative Issue

Art within the confines of a plate

110 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

This month’s review: Der Imbiss

Film, advertising, contemporary art, a short story and dance. Vietnam is a creative place

112 / Street Snacker Hanoi

The Hanoi-based fashion house that’s gone national

78 / Tattoo Art

Atelier des Reves: A new French restaurant in District 3

18 / Café in3D

84 / The Creative’s Guide to Hanoi

The Vietnam answer to Burning Man?

14 / The Woman Behind Chula

Cafes are home to all sorts of wonderful things these days

20 / The Ho Tram Open

Golf in Vietnam gets a major tournament

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Time to get inked?

Wanna develop your artistic flair? Here are some options

On the menu: my ga tan

114 / Top Eats HCMC

116 / Street Snacker HCMC A street snack that’s making a comeback: banh ong la dua

90 / Leathercraft Cafes

Make-your-own leather goods

116

Contents Jan. 2016

118

190

124

TRAVEL

158 / City Map

157 / Book Buff

118/ Boracay

HCMC

162/ Business Buff

28 / To-Do List

164 / Body and Temple

33 / Overscene

172 / The Gym Diaries

Crystal clear waters and palm treefringed beaches

124 / The Island of Change

For better or for worse, Phu Quoc is 160 / HCMC City Guide being transformed

132 / The Motorbike Diaries

Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh

HANOI 38 / To-Do List 42 / Overscene 136 / Hanoi City Guide

176 / Bar Stool

FINAL SAY

178 / Coffee Cup

190 / 10 Questions Americans Ask About Vietnam

180 / Top Eats 1 182 / Top Eats 2 188 / City Map

140 / Day Tripper

COLUMNS 142 / The Alchemist

146 / Bar Stool

144 / The Therapist

148 / Coffee Cup

154 / Student Eye

152 / Top Eats

156 / Medical Buff

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186 / A World of Good

Dispelling myths and reinforcing others

192 / On Leaving

Vietnam is the Asian version of Hotel California.

194 / High-Resolution Coach Solving lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imperfections

196 / Ten10

Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung Vietnam has been promoting social democracy in this country for 25 years

CONTRIBUTORS

This month we asked our team to tell us about when they are at their most creative NOEY NEUMARK Contributor It comes and goes. Between breakfast and lunch in a pretty Hanoi cafe tends to be a good bet, but sometimes I do my best work at midnight at the kitchen table with red wine, chocolate and music. JON ASPIN Staff Editor Agree with Noey. It’s random, but normally after a good swim, a stimulating conversation and yes, definitely a glass of wine or two. Sleep is important as well, I’m no longer a believer in the staying up all night method of making things happen, mornings are the best part of the day for a reason — though there’s always exceptions to the rule! HARRY HODGE Contributor When baby is sleeping and I can actually sit down and write something for the three hours she’s quiet. JULIE VOLA Photographer On a free day. I get up, turn on my kettle, do my bed and laundry, make coffee. I sit at my table, put my steaming cup on my right hand side, organise my things to leave some space for the cat to lay down next to me, turn on the music (usually classic cello) and then I am good to go for as long as I need. Every day should be like this. CORY JACKSON Contributor For creativity, I need space and time. I only seem to write things or paint when I’m lonely, so for me solitude is the best thing. SIAN KAVANAGH Contributor When my creative levels are low a long walk always clears my head and let’s the new ideas in. There’s something about physically putting one foot in front of the other and moving myself forward, though can’t forget my pen and notebook otherwise I lose the ideas as quickly as they come! VI PHAM Contributor I’m most creative when I’m left alone in my familiar messy room after a cozy shower. That’s when my mind is clear and neat and there is more space for more ideas. FRANCIS XAVIER Photographer After a long day of working, talking and traffic noises, it is really important that I have a routine for my imagination to keep myself sane. I go back home, lie on a couch, close my eyes, play my favourite music and let the music take me places. I imagine what the scene/ visual/mood would be like when I hear the sounds. It’s good practice for creating ideas and visuals for my photographs.

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

JON ASPIN Staff Editor jon@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer julie@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter & Photographer francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

OWEN SALISBURY Staff Writer owen@wordvietnam.com

JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer (Hanoi) jesse@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

ADVERTISING TRINH BUI Sales Manager trinh@wordvietnam.com

CHAU GIANG Office Assistant giang@wordvietnam.com

DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com hai@wordvietnam.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com hai@wordvietnam.com

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to Sian Kavanagh, Trung Del, Kate Robinson, Noey Neumark, Ben Rubin, Harry Hodge, Dr. Joy, Dana McNairn, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Karen Gay, To Thu Phuong, Matt Dworzanczyk, Natalia Martinez, Vi Pham, Dara O Foghlu, Craig Thomas Gallery, Galerie Quynh, Art Vietnam Gallery, Leo Burnett, R. Gabriel Villabolos, Karen Hewell, Donna Bramhall and David Legard

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JESS MEADOWS Writer My brain doesn’t seem to turn on until the sun goes down, so I’m most creative in the witching hours, from 1am to 4am. Also when I’m alone on long bus rides.

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604-77-1377-6

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CÔNG TY TNHH MTV NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THẾ GIỚI Trụ sở chính: 46 Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội Tel: 04.3825.3841 – Fax: 04.3826.9578 Email: thegioi@ thegioipublishers.vn Website: www. thegioipublishers.vn

CHỊU TRÁCH NHIỆM XUẤT BẢN: TS. Trần Đoàn Lâm Biên tập: Phạm Trần Long Thiết kế mỹ thuật: Bao Ross Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

LIÊN KẾT XUẤT BẢN VÀ PHÁT HÀNH CÔNG TY CP TM–DV–QC–TRUYỀN THÔNG DƯƠNG HUỲNH 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Q. 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordvietnam.com Website: www.wordvietnam.com

In 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cm In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú 71 – 73 – 75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Giấy xác nhận ĐKXB số: 890-2015/ CXBIPH/14-59/ThG. Quyết định xuất bản số: 778/QĐ-ThG cấp ngày 24 tháng 12 năm 2015. In xong và nộp lưu chiểu tháng 1 năm 2016. Mã ISBN: 978-604-77-1377-6 SÁCH CHUYÊN ĐỀ QUẢNG CÁO

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Prelude

former Word writer now works for CNN Online in London. Every article he is commissioned to write is PR, but cleverly disguised, creative PR. Once the client pays and the angle is worked out, the article is put together and posted online. The client gets no direct say in the actual content itself. They’re paying for positive publicity.

So the likes of CNN will run few articles that are truly spin-free. What is a surprise is that the western media continues to insist that they are a ‘free press’ and that they are reporting the ‘truth’ while us, in places like Vietnam, are the opposite. As anyone who has read books like Albert Camus’ The Myth of Sisyphus will know, there’s no such thing as truth. Yet we prevail in this belief that there is. For me, this month’s Creative Issue is ironic. Ironic in that every issue we send to the press is creative. From the layout and the photography through to the writing itself, without creativity

Word would quite simply not exist. Unlike our counterparts in the West, however, we don’t pretend to be anything we are not. We don’t pretend to be ‘free’, and we don’t pretend that we aren’t at the mercy of the people who pay our bills. Without our clients we would cease to exist. We don’t pretend we have no restraints. Ultimately we are no different from any other publication on this planet. Not only does our content need to be creative, well-planned and well-executed, but to survive, we have to be creative. — Nick Ross, Chief Editor

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 1 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

Theative e r C Issue

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The

Naturally, CNN also runs large amounts of different, unpaid for content that is not PR. But that the ‘free press’ is well and truly in the hands of those who pay their bills as well as in the hands of the people who provide them with information — be that the organs of power, the multinationals, the various mechanisms of state or NGOs — is well known. It’s just not something that gets talked about all that much. A publication is only as good as the information it receives, and out of necessity much of that information is spin. That’s what marketing and PR people are for.

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THIS MONTH'S COVER Design by DH Advertising

Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

Inbox Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us at editor@ wordvietnam. com — we’re at your fingertips.

The Best Restaurants in Vietnam Responses on Facebook to our posting of one of the articles from The Wordies, December 2015 Must have went there on a bad day but Pizza 4Ps was about one of the worst pizzas I have ever had the displeasure to consume... — TD To get on this list you had to pay. It’s a load of BS. — BR* The restaurants on this list are all stale. How about something a bit more interesting? — BR* Please note that BR* is a restaurant owner in Ho Chi Minh City. His restaurant didn’t make our top 20. After he was found out, he stopped commenting

The Best Cafes in Vietnam Responses on Facebook. From The Wordies, December 2015

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Good to see Cafe Dolphy making your “list” — good coffee at a good price with a good ambience without any inclination to be a “spot”. I’m amazed that Coffee Bean and Starbucks made the list, not because they are bad, but because the city has so many better options and the Word’s longevity will ultimately rely on this kind of honesty — these chains can promote themselves by just being there and your job is, or could be, to promote the cafes that do it well by serving coffee that tastes like coffee. — JM I think Cong Cafe has good ambience but the coffee isn’t that great — THL Dolphy has the best coffee in town if not the country. — GC Only two places in Vietnam? Don’t tell the government or the people. — ME

General Comments December 2015 You should continue to do issues like the coastline and the streets. That’s where Word’s strength lies. — Anon My Grandad said Word is a stellar publication and requested seven copies to take home with him to England. — SK The cover this month was quite dark — JM

Banh To Ong In response to a post on Facebook reading: It’s a well-known fact that the mighty waffle was invented in Vietnam Of course, I have never heard so much waffle come out of so many mouths as in Vietnam — TWB So was the wheel, the automotive, beer, cheese and so many more things [wink emoticon] — DV A well known “fact”? Have they redefined the word fact recently? I thought it was the French or Belgians about 600 years ago — LF

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Talk Lead THE TALK

LEAD

The Chance to be Vietnamese Citizenship of this country is a real possibility

n American friend of mine now living in Vietnam recently applied for Singaporean citizenship. He has disagreed with US foreign policy since the aftermath of 9/11 and didn’t see why he should pay tax to a country he didn’t live in and which he felt no longer represented his life and who he stood for. Having spent a number of years in Singapore, he was offered the chance to “naturalise”. His application was turned down, but it raised an interesting question. With Vietnam being completely removed from the present battle against Islamic extremism, wouldn’t now be the time to apply for Vietnamese citizenship? There are no terrorism attacks, no bombings, no knifings. The cost of living is cheap, the weather’s good (well, most of the time), and if you’re skilled and have a bit of get-go, there’s lots of work. We have a good lifestyle, we can travel, we aren’t beset by an obsession with rules, business is efficient and most importantly, physically in Vietnam you are safe. People have already told me that thanks to my language skills I’m already halfVietnamese, a comment I’m never quite sure how to accept. And having flirted for many years with the idea of applying for permanent residency — this is doable providing you fulfil certain criteria — I decided to look at going the whole hog. I decided to see what I would need to do to become Vietnamese.

The Conditions Fortunately, I’m not the only person to do this. A certain lawyer, Dr. Matthias Dühn, has been thinking the same thoughts, and in early December he shared a post on LinkedIn about applying for Vietnamese citizenship. “In times of turmoil, insecurity and lack of stability in Europe, foreign inquiries for

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obtaining Vietnamese citizenship have been on the rise,” began the post. He continued by explaining the conditions required to apply for citizenship. These are: a) Having the full civil act capacity as prescribed by Vietnam’s laws b) Obeying the Constitution and laws of Vietnam; respecting the traditions, customs and practices of the Vietnamese nation c) Understanding Vietnamese sufficiently enough to integrate themselves into the Vietnamese community d) Having resided in Vietnam for five years or more by the time of application for naturalization e) Being capable of making their livelihood in Vietnam. If you don’t fully meet the conditions outlined in c), d) and e), then you may still be considered for citizenship if you fall into one of the following cases: i) Being a spouse, natural parent or natural offspring of Vietnamese citizens ii) Having made meritorious contributions to Vietnam’s national construction and defence iii) Being helpful to the State of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. There are some additional caveats. In theory you have to renounce your foreign nationality — in practice there are some exceptions. You also have to adopt a Vietnamese name.

To Renounce or Not to Renounce There is an immediate issue here; having to

lose my existing citizenship. Holding a UK passport has innumerable benefits — travel just being the start of this — but according to Dühn, “in case of marriage with Vietnamese spouse or children, a foreigner would not necessarily have to renounce his or her original citizenship.” But this is not the real issue. The real issue is the very strong “us and them” mentality that exists in Vietnam. It exists everywhere — outsiders, no matter what colour, race, sex or religion — are always frowned upon. But in Vietnam it has yet to undergo the decades of ‘tolerance’ and ‘integration’ that has been such a feature of the western desire to be cosmopolitan. This is not Vietnam’s fault. The 19th and 20th centuries in this country were riddled with the intervention of foreign powers, or to put it more directly, the intervention of white males. And through no fault of my own, I come from the same gene pool. Which means that as it stands, I’m always going to be a nguoi nuoc ngoai, and people will continue to refer to me as ong tay. It doesn’t matter how much your Vietnamese family or friends accept you as one of them, you will always be a foreigner. Then there is the difficulty of understanding Vietnamese culture. It is so complex, so rich, and so full of history and regional variations, and so different to the culture that I was brought up with, that no matter how long I live in this country or how good my language skills, I will never quite get a grasp on it. So, will I apply for Vietnamese citizenship? Most likely not. Because unlike foreigners moving to the west who can take on new citizenship and become American, British, Australian, French or German, no matter what passport I hold, I can never be Vietnamese. Which is a pity, because I love this country. — Nick Ross PHOTO BY: KRHEESY

Big5 The

Comedy, DJs, the Vietnamese New Year and heavy metal. A month in the life of Vietnam

b c

A Night with Nik Coppin

DJ Vadim 2016 is the Year of the Monkey

Dutch DJ Tom Trago returns to Ho Chi Minh City

The comic behind the two highly acclaimed Australian comedy shows, Shaggers and Huggers, the very, very funny Nik Coppin will be returning for his second stint of laughter making on Jan. 14. With a father from Barbados and a mother from England, expect material that goes from the West Indies to the UK and back again, via a persona that has much in common with the likes of Eddie Izzard and Ross Noble. Nik will be supported by the Hanoi Comedy Collective. For more info turn to page 38

Metalheads, School of Mosh is all for you…

House of Son Tinh — Highway 4, Hanoi 1 Thursday, Jan. 14

CAMA ATK, Hanoi and Observatory, HCMC Jan. 15 and Jan. 16

With over 2,500 performances in 69 countries under his belt, the UK-raised, Russian born Vadim will be returning to Hanoi (Jan. 15) and Saigon (Jan. 16). One of the key figures of the 1990s trip-hop scene in the UK, Vadim will

bring with him his mix of electronic, hip-hop inspired music tinged with reggae, trip hop, soul, funk, grime, dub and bass, with elements of African rhythms, house and boogie. It’s a bit of a mouthful, but it works. The chief editor of this worthy rag had the honour to interview and meet Vadim back in the 1990s when he was the big thing on the record label, Ninja Tunes. For info on the Saigon gig turn to page 28 and for Hanoi, page 40

School Of Mosh 3

Hanoi Creative City, Hanoi Saturday, Jan. 23

Metalheads get ready. This one is for you. 15 bands, four countries, and a whole host of headbangers. What could be better? Well, stupid question, really. There will even be a range of ‘street’ activities on offer — perfect for getting that tattoo of AC/DC or Metallica you’ve been craving for. For more info, turn to page 41

Tom Trago 4

Observatory, HCMC Friday, Jan. 29

The legendary Dutch beatmeister,

Tom Trago, makes his return to Vietnam to play for the first time at Observatory’s new venue. Considered by many to be at the apex of global electronic music production, Tom Trago is a DJ that knows how to make some of the most discerning clubs in the world move for hours and hours and hours. Support will come from Nic Ford. Entrance is free before 11pm and VND150,000 after. Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

The Year of the Monkey 5

All of Vietnam Feb. 7 to Feb. 13

It may seem a bit early for us to start harking on about Tet, but one question everyone asks is when exactly is it? So, here are some dates. Sunday, Feb. 7 is New Year’s Eve Monday, Feb. 8 is New Year’s Day Public holidays run until Saturday Feb. 13 So, if you are thinking of making for a sharp exit, now you know exactly when. And for those of us who want to bring in the Year of the Monkey with style, time to start searching out those fireworks spots.

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Briefings Mui ne

The Mui Ne Music & Arts Festival The south of Vietnam gets its answer to Glastonbury, Burning Man and Quest

t was about 4pm on Friday afternoon the first time we made the pilgrimage up to the venue of Mui Ne Music and Arts Festival. The 700m uphill walk was slow, but we were happy to take in the views, the low December sun, and the gradual building of the bass drum as we got closer to the stages. Sat atop Mui Ne with views of the entire bay, that first afternoon was an eruption of rhythm and drums from the three stages, overwhelming to the ears as the sound engineers found the perfect balance. Friday I was in love already with where I found myself; one of 700 people who wanted nothing more than to dance until they couldn’t stop smiling, and escape the real world even if only for three days. The venue was surrounded by 100 metres of white canvas, though they didn’t

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stay plain for long. The Waves of Mui Ne gave artistic space for the resident artists and amateurs amongst us to pick up a spray can and draw, write, or express whatever we wanted. The entire place was filled with art from the stage lights, to the 3D mapping and live art constructed by the main stage, there was also space to get your body striped and dotted with neon body paint. Saturday was the busiest day of the weekend with 1,400 attendees and a diverse audience of people who flocked together; from backpackers passing through to young families and an abundance of people from Ho Chi Minh City, to the Mui Ne and Phan Thiet locals looking for something different.

Dream Realised “This is a dream project that we have been

planning for well over 10 years,” said festival organiser, Rod Quinton. “It is great to at last get it up and running. I believe Mui Ne is a very special place.” The varied line up offered everyone a space to enjoy the atmosphere with musicians playing mellow, intimate indie rock sets, and the rowdy EDM sets of the DJs at the dance stage. No matter what mood the weekend found you in, the venue offered a space for you to feel comfortable. The main stage offered a vast variety of genres and styles, with a mellow acoustic set from Phil Holmes, upbeat tunes of Masia One and The Irietones that got the entire audience dancing, to Perfume Genius’s intimate performance where he bore his soul for the Sunday night crowd. The festival was no stranger to amazing

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

artists and musicians — the Friday night headliners Hinds found out while they were in Mui Ne that NME Awards had nominated them for Best New Artist. The reggae stage welcomed a staggering 38 different sets over the three days, with a lot of them merging into the next as artists jammed with each other to create different sounds. KCM, the percussionist, maintained a three-night spectacle of drumming throughout a variety of sets on the reggae stage with an abundance of smiles and stamina.

Delta Force The three-man band Mekong Delta Force brought their fusion of rhythm and groove to the Saturday night main stage with the perfect blend of dub and rock reggae, which contrasted with the Irietones’ Friday

night, six-person spectacle of body moving ska and reggae. The dance stage provided longer sets, about 90 minutes per performer, that allowed for the crowd to really settle into the mood. Jimmy Ladd, organiser and DJ, brought his signature mellow beats to the stage on Friday and Saturday night, and lived up to his mission of creating a temporary community of dancers and revellers. Another mentionable act was Noches who graced the dance stage Sunday night with his synth-heavy set and dreamy female vocals. Phil, owner of the Bacardi Bus, commented: “You never know what to expect, but it’s been amazingly successful. [The organisers] found a killer location with sea breeze, an amazing view, as well as a high level of performers.”

By Sunday the Saigon crowd had started to disperse, and the 800 of us who were lucky enough to have a Monday off to recover, enjoyed the closing atmosphere; the smooth music, remnants of glitter and body paint, the inevitable sand in every imaginable place, and the company of friends who were soon to become strangers again. For one weekend, we were the loudest and brightest source of noise and light pollution for this sprawling beach town, but it was all for something magical. Together we’d created a community, and it was universally understood that there would be no trouble, no hassle among this gathering of likeminded spirits. All we wanted to do was drink, dance and make friends. And that’s exactly what we did. — Sian Kavanagh

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Briefings National

The Woman Behind Chula

One half of a Hanoi-based fashion house that has gone national

ne of Chula’s signature ao dais pictures a hunched-over Vietnamese woman on the front, a focused look in her eyes as she zooms ahead on a motorbike. On the back of the dress, it’s the motorbike’s rear, carrying a blossoming tree in preparation for Tet. It is through what they are achieving with Chula that Laura and her husband, Diego Cortizas, embrace Vietnamese culture. “We are a Vietnamese brand, and we are proud of that,” Laura says, as she leads me through the colourful maze of terraces, workspaces and showrooms that comprise Chula’s West Lake headquarters. In the last year, Chula has expanded beyond its original Lac Long Quan location, opening shops in Hoi An, Ho Chi Minh City and central Hanoi. Laura clarifies that she’s not the brand’s creative force, referring to Diego as “the master beside me”, but her role in Chula cannot be understated. Her energy permeates the company’s operations, in her passion for each dress, her animated conversations with the employees, and in her contagious excitement for all things Chula. Chula began after Laura and Diego first moved to Hanoi from their native Spain in 2004. “We never thought we’d work together,” Laura recalls. After all, she had studied political science and Diego had studied architecture, so their presumed career paths were wholly separate.

Passion for Fashion “Something about Vietnam just exploded in us,” Laura says, and they packed up their lives in Spain and started putting down roots in Hanoi. Laura discovered the gorgeous textiles abundant in Hanoi’s markets, and Diego discovered a passion for fashion. “I think he was in shock,” Laura says. “Fashion became an excuse for Diego to put forward his ideas about art and culture in a beautiful way.”

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While Diego embodies Chula’s aesthetic through his designs of dresses, skirts, tops, jackets and a developing line of menswear, Laura carries Chula’s colourful spirit via her familial love for the brand. “Diego’s vision is wonderful,” she says, “and I am follower number one.” Laura and Diego discuss all of Chula’s designs and collections, which Diego ultimately takes the reins on. Laura oversees the brand’s public relations, sales and day-today production. As Chula evolved, so too did Laura and Diego’s working styles. “We never had a determined plan for how we’d share the work, but we’ve figured it out along the way, and taken Chula forward little by little,” Laura says.

Spirit Beyond the spousal relationship at Chula’s foundation, social relationships shape the brand’s identity. Laura’s love of Chula’s employees is palpable. “I love the production part,” Laura says. “I love working with the girls, admiring their technique, and seeing how the dresses bloom.” It’s remarkably quiet as we tread over woven carpets and through ribbon-adorned doorways; that’s because 85% of Chula’s employees are people with disabilities (predominantly hearing-impaired). Laura communicates with the women embroidering, cutting and sewing through sign language and big smiles. “We were lucky to meet one of the girls at the beginning of Chula,” Laura says. “The communication was perfect, as we didn’t speak good Vietnamese. “People with disabilities are a minority in society, in the world, and in other companies. At Chula, they are the majority.” Chula’s production has always been a team effort. This communal spirit is embodied in the Lac Long Quan shop and workrooms. “We love that when people come here, they can see everything that’s related to the dresses’

creation,” Laura says. “They can meet the designers, see where the clothes come from, and get inspired.”

Building Connections Laura takes great pride in introducing customers to Chula, and says she’s the more forthrightly social one; she welcomes customers and shows them what Chula is all about, while Diego takes more time establishing close, one-on-one relationships with customers. “We both believe in the relationships, but we approach them in our own ways,” Laura concludes. “Being an expat, I’ve always loved meeting new people.” The expat community has no doubt bolstered Chula’s success. “They love our dresses that reference Vietnam, that serve as a memory of the years they lived here,” she says. But Laura also expresses gratitude for the enthusiasm shown by the local Vietnamese community. Through Chula’s history, Vietnam itself has remained the brand’s most salient motivation. “If we were not in Vietnam, we never would have created Chula,” Laura says. Likewise, Laura expresses great pride to have the label recognised locally and internationally as something inherently Vietnamese. “It’s a big honour to be representing Vietnam.” When Laura talks about Chula, it’s almost easy to forget that she’s talking about a fashion brand, particularly when she expresses her vision as “a model of business that is a social company, independent and sustainable, and not all about the money.” In a world of fashion obsessed with creating the “next, next, next,” Chula embraces fashion’s power to tell a story and build connections. “Clothes need to have values to stand out in the big business of clothes,” Laura says. “Chula clothes are not for one season, but forever.” — Noey Neumark For more info on Chula click on chulafashion. com

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

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Charity of the Month

ACCV

An Australian charity helping people help themselves

he most striking thing about The Australian Charity for the Children of Vietnam (ACCV) is the warmth of the people involved in it. From the students helped by the organisation to its staff and volunteers, everyone associated with the non-profit is patient, welcoming and good-humoured. I spoke to ACCV founder Alison Vidotto as well as office manager Mai Phung about the work that they do. Alison founded ACCV in 2007 after a family trip to Vietnam, during which she met a young blind man named Quan, who for eight years was unable to leave his house in a tiny village in the countryside due to his disability. With no support network

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or possibility of receiving an education, Quan’s future looked grim. As a mother, Alison felt deeply for Quan and his family; as an English teacher, she saw a way that she could help them. It took two years of hard work for Alison to set up ACCV’s first English classes for the blind. Quan was one of the first students.

Making People Proactive When asked about the organisation’s greatest accomplishments, Alison focuses entirely on the people helped by ACCV. “Our young blind students are a constant source of pride and inspiration,” she says. “Many of them were extremely isolated and withdrawn when we met them. They have

done so well I am in awe of them sometimes. They have jobs, gone back to school, some are at university, some speak great English. Most importantly, they have come out of the shadows and built a network together.” Mai agrees, saying that ACCV’s success is in changing the attitudes of its students from being passive about their circumstances to becoming proactive. Mai tells me about Hong, a blind student who retreated from the world after the accident that caused her to lose her vision at a young age. Instead of going to school, she spent six years in her house. With ACCV’s support, she finished high school and is now a university student, working in the ACCV office part-time in between classes. Her

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY ACCV

English is very good, and she has a great sense of humour, instantly putting people at ease. “I’d like to stay and chat, but I’m very busy,” she jokes with me when I come into the office. She’s definitely going places.

The Programmes ACCV’s original programme, ELITE, provides training in English and IT support for blind students, giving them opportunities for further education or employment that they otherwise would not have been able to access. Another programme, the Christine Edith Sponsorship programme, partners with the National Hospital of Pediatrics to support children with chronic illnesses whose families cannot afford the medicine needed to manage their condition. ACCV runs one other programme, called “A Brighter Tomorrow”, which provides funding for children from disadvantaged backgrounds to get an education, including paying for

living expenses as well as tuition. Both Mai and Alison say that the main goal of ACCV is to help people help themselves. Merely supporting people is unsustainable; providing support for people to learn to support themselves, however, is not only a better use of funds, it also gives them the confidence they too often lack. ACCV is looking into expanding its ELITE programme to include a playgrouptype support club for younger blind children and their families. A major problem for blind children in Vietnam is isolation, as well as a lack of education (many schools do not accept blind students, as they do not have the resources necessary to teach them.) Mai and Alison do not hesitate when I ask them what the biggest challenge for ACCV is; lack of funding. Alison says, “There is so much more I would love to do for blind and underprivileged children in Vietnam, but we are hamstrung by lack of finances.” — Kate Robinson

How can I help? Mai says that ACCV welcomes any and all contributions from the general public, including ideas if not money or time. Please check out their website at accv. net.au for more information or to make a donation. If you’d like to be a volunteer teacher for the blind, please email Mai at accvmai@gmail.com.

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Briefings HCMC

Cafe in 3D

A cafe and 3D printing shop all in one

hen I was 10 years old, I used to go to my dad’s office and go crazy with the photocopy machine, making copies of my hands and face. That all came to an end after I broke the machine — twice. When 3D printers entered the consumer market a few years back, getting any masterpiece out of those machines was not something we could have called affordable. Now they have become more commonplace, and I have found a café here in Vietnam where you can get some cool work done for a very reasonable price.

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Giving Shape to 3D printing 3D printers became a reality back in 1984. Instead of ink, these machines would use a range of different materials, enabling a 3D object to be created from digital data. So far, wood, bronze, nylon, carbon fibre, water-soluble plastic and flexible rubber are some of the materials which have been used to create a variety of products. Some of them have even been made from the waste products of beer. This technology has moved into many industries. In 2014 we welcomed the world’s first 3D-printed car, which took 44 hours to be printed. This printing system has brought

many important advances to the medical industry. However, the technology is still expensive and it wasn’t until 2012 that it became accessible to the general public.

Served With Coffee Cafe in3D was one of the first 3D printing companies to open in Vietnam, and was the first company to introduce a full-colour 3D printer to the wider Vietnamese market. This model produces excellent full-colour samples with very low-cost material, which is durable; it is water-resistant, unbreakable and environmentally friendly. Their main goal is to offer a 3D printing service, but they

and wait for it to be done, while enjoying some of their coffee. For those customers who live far away, send the file via e-mail and get the products shipped once they are finished. “However, we have a more ambitious plan,” continues Brian. “We want to become the first Shapeways (the biggest 3D printing company in the world) of Vietnam by letting our customers upload their 3D files directly to our site and just wait for their products to arrive.” They are seeking investors to expand their business, which is meant to also give a bit more attention to the coffee side of the business. Since they have joined the 3D printing scene, Café in3D have been vying

to consistently offer the latest technology. In fact, last month they introduced a chocolate 3D printer into one of their two shops. “The field is changing fast with new 3D printing technology coming out almost every month,” explains Brian. “Therefore, we also have to keep updating our shops with new products. In the future, we plan to introduce 3D printers to use in the dental and medical fields.” — Natalia Martinez Café in3D is at 130 Tran Huy Lieu, Phu Nhuan, HCMC and 78 D3 Street, Binh Thanh, HCMC. For more info click on cafein3D.com (the website is only in Vietnamese) or email sales@ cafein3D.com

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PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

also function as a shop. “The speed of 3D printing is still pretty slow and so we thought it would be nice if we could offer our customers a cup of coffee while they wait for their products to be printed,” explains Brian Tong, owner and creator of the café. According to Brian their service is going well — they receive many orders a week. “Most of them are from companies who need to have prototypes of their new products before they mass produce them,” he explains. There are two ways to get your products 3D printed; either go to the shop and hand the file of the design you want to get printed

In Transition HCMC

The Park Under Saigon Bridge

gazebos for visitors to enjoy. Ladies of the night still congregate in the area after dark, but not as many as in the past. The renovation of the park has been subject to significant delays — the original plans were posted on the Internet in 2014. According to quan2.hochiminhcity. gov.vn, the Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee handed the area over to the city’s Transport Department for public use in May 2014. Delays or not, it’s part of the general transformation of the swampland that once made up District 2 and in particular nearby Thu Thiem. The concept is to build a new city, an alternative residential, business and recreational area for those previously with their focus on District 1. Now in 2016 the park project is nearing completion. So maybe it’s worth going to have a look. — Vu Ha Kim Vy

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PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER

ver the past six months, District 2 has been gaining itself a new park. Located on a five-hectare site under the east side of Saigon Bridge, work has been slow, but the area was once a fenced-in, abandoned piece of land with wild grass, a few shacks and a lot of construction waste. Surrounded by a high green fence, it stood like that for years. It also used to host a large number of sex workers. Since the fence has been removed, the space has been transformed, with the planting of proper grass and trees. The former wasteland is now airy and spacious, decorated with contemporary art and stone paths. Divided in two by Tran Nao Street, the first section is 90% complete and the second has just reached 60% completion. There is also an unfinished pond and a number of

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Startup

of the

Month

PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

Hanoi

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HotTab

A point of sale system for restaurants and cafes is making its way around Hanoi

n the surface, HotTab is a point of sale (POS) system for restaurants and cafés. Yet, beneath that, what started as an idea to put tablets in hotel rooms has transformed into “an operating system for restaurants,” according to owner Sanjeev Sapkota. Through a multifaceted approach, HotTab aims to change the face of F&B operations. HotTab provides partner restaurants with a POS machine or tablets with the system installed. In addition to giving waiting staff a modern and accessible user interface, and dedicated customer support, HotTab also links to an inventory database that allows restaurants to keep track of their stock. Soon, this database will directly connect restaurants with food and beverage suppliers, enabling the timely restocking of food and beverages. What else? “The only thing we’re missing to complete the circle are the consumers,” Sanjeev says. “So we have to get into that.” That means that a consumer app is on the horizon that will allow customers to preorder, track orders, pay, and collect loyalty points at HotTab partner restaurants. The app will also let consumers find partner

restaurants nearby, a selling point for all parties.

Traditional Markets Nepali national Sanjeev says: “Vietnam has been a really good market for us to test our product.” HotTab is experiencing growing success in Hanoi, currently operating in 23 outlets. They plan to expand to Ho Chi Minh City and Cambodia in the coming months. “Hanoi is a more traditional market, so if we can crack this we can practise here and sell (elsewhere) much easier,” Sanjeev says. That raises the question: why does a traditional market make a good place for thriving startups? “I don’t think the traditional market inhibits creativity,” Sanjeev says. He agrees that the relative lack of infrastructure such as online channels for suppliers or mobile payment systems can slow down the growth process. “But that’s a negative and a positive at the same time,” he says. “It allows us to move a little bit slowly, one step at a time, and to understand everything.”

Going Global As HotTab evolves, Sanjeev and his

cofounder, Nicolas Campourcy, are building a multicultural team of people with a variety of skills who all possess an excited, energetic attitude. “We’re at the point where we have to think global,” Sanjeev says. “We have to be thinking as a company, rather than as a startup.” In startup territory, Sanjeev tells me, it’s easier to make excuses, to scrap plans, and to cut corners. Looking ahead, he and Nicolas are stressing innovation, experimentation, and growth. “Innovation is the key to success,” Sanjeev says, and luckily, Nicolas shares that sentiment. The pair met in a hostel in the Philippines in 2013, and when Sanjeev called Nicolas in mid-2014 with his new business idea, Nicolas was immediately interested. Nicolas supported HotTab from France until finally joining the team on the ground in Hanoi in May 2015. How did two guys from techie backgrounds end up deeply entrenched in F&B? “I had no idea I’d be in this industry,” Sanjeev admits. “I just loved eating.” With more innovation, change, and plenty of food on the horizon, HotTab’s future is looking good. — Noey Neumark

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Sports

The Ho Tram Open

Digest

Harry Hodge pays a trip to Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first major professional golfing tournament, and is witness to a dramatic finish.

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS

World number 12 Sergio Garcia won the inaugural Ho Tram Open in thrilling style

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Conquer the Bridge Run returns

pain’s Sergio Garcia made the putt heard across Vietnam in December. And golf promoters are hoping the country’s youth will take notice. Garcia’s dramatic playoff win against India’s Himmat Rai at the Ho Tram Open made for compelling viewing both in person and on TV sets around the world. Garcia had recorded a three-underpar 68 to get into the playoff against Rai and two others for the playoff’s first round. It made for a splashy debut for what may put Vietnam on the golf world map, with world no. 12 Garcia taking home US$270,000 of the US$1.5 million prize money. The week of the event also featured fight nights, concerts and clinics for sporting enthusiasts from all over the planet. “I almost threw it away, but I got lucky, I got a second chance,” Garcia said during the trophy presentation. “Everybody that has been involved (with this tournament) should be very, very proud.” On that fateful final day, the Vietnam Golf Association held a press conference to announce there would be a junior version of the tournament to help grow the game in this country. Officials estimated that while there are some 15,000 golfers in Vietnam, only about 400 would be considered ‘junior’. But bringing tournaments with big stars like Garcia, Australia’s Geoff Ogilvy, Denmark’s Thomas Bjorn

and numerous Asian Tour veterans can take the game’s profile to the next level here. “Golf clubs can help out [reaching young players],” said Asian Tour Executive Chairman Kyi Hla Han. “They can take kids to driving ranges. Golf is still an expensive sport [for most children]. School programmes are important because Vietnam doesn’t have much of a golf culture.” While the number of golf courses popping up across the country has exploded over the last decade, Vietnam produces fewer pros than most of its Southeast Asian counterparts. One player who benefitted from the Ho Tram Open is 17-year-old Truong Chi Quan, a Ho Chi Minh City native currently living in Florida and working on his game. He had a chance to get pointers from Garcia and England’s Robert Rock, the Ho Tram Open’s ambassador during the tournament. “It’s been an awesome experience playing with Rocky and Sergio,” said the teenager. “I hope I can come back and play again next year.” With that in mind, the Vietnam Junior Open 2016 is slated to be held at this same course in the first week of August, when students from around the region and the world can compete with Vietnamese golfers. The Ho Tram Open may help put the spotlight on Vietnam, but hopefully junior players in this country can develop the game and keep it there.

The popular Conquer the Bridge run returns on Jan. 24 with 5km, 10km and 21km (half-marathon) distances. You can register online at hcmcrun.com or offline at some sports stores in Ho Chi Minh City. The course winds through District 7 and onto the Phu My Bridge, which must be conquered to complete the course. The Athlete’s Village, 105 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung, District 7, is in front of Crescent Plaza. For every registration, you will receive a T-shirt, race bib, bag, and event booklet. Half-marathon finishers will also receive a special T-shirt at the finish area after completing the race. Please check the website or runclub.vn. Facebook page for more details about registration and fees. Registration will be closed after Jan. 3

Barefoot and Lovin’ It According to Vietnam News, runner Pham Van Dai from Danang won the inaugural 10km Da Nang Barefoot Run 2015-16 at My Khe beach last month. Phan Van Can was second and Pham Thu finished third. The event combined sports and entertainment to boost tourism in the area. Nguyen Huynh Ngoc Hung won the 5km race, while Le Tan Thinh and Nguyen Cong Trung came in second and third place, respectively. According to organizers, nearly 8,000 local and foreign runners took part in the race. Nearly 1,000 students and young people joined a ‘Clean Up the Beach’ drive and a musical performance at the East Sea Park associated with the event.

Vietnamese Football According to Vietnam News, Mai Duc Chung will return to manage the national women’s football team after the Viet Nam Football Federation decided not to extend their contract with Japanese coach Norimatsu Takashi.

During Takashi’s eight-month tenure, the team entered the final qualification round of the 2016 Olympics. Chung has worked with the women’s squad several times and has claimed several successes such as the Southeast Asian Games title in 2003. Chung will take charge of the team for their third Olympic qualifier in February in Japan. In other football news, the men’s national football team saw no change to its position in last month’s FIFA World Rankings, remaining 147th in the world. With 200 points, Vietnam ranks third in the Southeast Asian region. Thailand rose 11 spots to no. 133 and leads the region, followed by the Philippines at no. 139.

U-22s Can vie for SEA Games Spots Football at the 2017 Southeast Asian (SEA) Games to be held in Malaysia will provide an important platform for under-22 players, according to Tran Quoc Tuan, vicechairman of the ASEAN Football Federation (AFF). The 2015 SEA Games and previous editions were reserved for under-23 players. In 2017, the Asian Football Confederation (AFC) will organise the qualification round of the AFC U-22 Championship in order to select the teams the following year to advance to the Olympic Games for under-23 teams. So, it makes sense to allow under-22 players for SEA Games selection ahead of Olympic qualification. The news means players such as Cong Phuong, Tuan Anh and Xuan Truong of the first batch of Hoang Anh Gia Lai — ates Arsenal JMG d updyour n e S r t Football aboug group o@ Academy y n i r t r spor nt to ha .com graduates eve vietnam may have word the chance to play in the 2017 SEA Games.

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ToDo list HCMC

Mountain bike races, pool parties, cool DJs a fitness challenge and a fair amount of art. Despite the slowdown in the run up to Tet, January is still a-kickin’

Le Dame Noir The Observatory, Q4 Friday, Jan. 8 On Friday Jan. 8, French enclave Le Dame Noir — a Marseille collective including a bar, a club, label and crew of producers — are bringing their unique vision to Saigon. Expect a night of crazy French dancing tunes. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC and the show starts at 10pm. Entry is free before 11pm and costs VND150,000 thereafter. For more info click on theobservatory-hcmc.com

Saigon Soul Pool Parties New World Hotel, Q1 Jan. 9, 16, 23 and 30 In case you’ve forgotten — and we’re sure you haven’t — them Saturday afternoon Saigon Soul Parties continue on this month at the New World Hotel. An institution, Saigon Soul is the liveliest pool party in the city. Every Saturday the finest DJs that this metropolis has to offer turn up at a luxurious pool and start bangin’. From 10am to 10pm they create a “tempting oasis”, where they say, “You’ll be guaranteed a sexy, waterfueled event with some fantastic house music and amazing people.” Know a better way to spend a Saturday? Don’t think so. New World Saigon Hotel is at 2F, 76 Le Lai, Q1, HCMC. Entrance costs VND150,000 Book your VIP cabana on saigonsoul.com

Canvas and Wine

Saigon Soul Parties — the only place to get wet on a Saturday

Canvas and Wine — painting with a glass or three of vino

The one and only Vadim is returning to Vietnam

Images from the exhibition, Passers By, by Ho Hung

Vinspace, Q2 and Q7 Jan. 14 and Jan. 28 Come in and explore your creative side as VinSpace’s tutors show you that everyone has an inner illustrator. Learn four ways to draw in multiple styles in the 2.5 hour lesson, and enjoy the session with a glass or three of wine. There are two options available: the Portfolio Drawing class in the District 2 space, and the Paint Saigon workshop in the space in Phu My Hung. Prices range from VND874,000, including two glasses of wine (all materials included). Teachers and groups of four and above get discounts. The Portfolio Drawing programme is on Thursday, Jan. 14 at 6, Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC will Paint Saigon takes place two weeks later on Thursday, Jan. 28 at S24-1 Le Van Thiem, Q7, HCMC. Both programmes run from 6.30pm to

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9pm. For info or bookings click on vinspace.com/canvas-and-wine

DJ Vadim The Observatory, Q4 Saturday, Jan. 16 The Beats Saigon presents DJ Vadim, the London-based (and raised) Russian DJ who played a key role in the rise of trip hop in the 1990s. Expect to hear Vadim’s unique melange of reggae, electronic and hip-hop. There’s a bit of everything in there and this guy is very, very good. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC and the show starts

at 10pm. Entry is free before 11pm and costs VND150,000 thereafter. For more info click on theobservatory-hcmc.com

Passers By VinGallery, Q2 From Friday, Jan. 22 Vietnamese water-colourist Ho Hung’s solo show will be on display at VinGallery from Friday, Jan. 22. Lose yourself in the delicate beauty of his watercolour representations of his southern Vietnamese homelands. See Ho Chi Minh City in a new light, almost literally. Ho Hung is an accomplished artist who has exhibited his work at Hue

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ToDo list HCMC

1 Fine Arts University, the Fine Arts University of Ho Chi Minh City and more. The show opens on Friday, Jan. 22 and will run until Feb. 29. For more info email info@vingallery.com. VinGallery is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC

Saigon Loves Jungle Saigon Ranger, Q1 Friday, Jan. 22 Saigon Loves Jungle is hosting their fourth fundraiser for the Green Youth Collective on Jan. 22. Come for the music from a long list of DJs and musicians from the global jungle scene, or enter the MC competition to test your skills against the city’s finest amateur MCs. The show starts at 10pm and runs until 2am and entry is VND100,000, with a 50% discount for Reggae Festival ticket holders. All profits are donated to the Green Youth Collective. For more information, click on facebook.com/saigonlovesjungle. Saigon Ranger is at 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC

Ultra Trail Angkor Angkor Wat, Cambodia Sunday, Jan. 23,

Saigon Loves Jungle is returning for their fourth outing on Jan. 22

French Kiwi Juice will be returning to Observatory for a second outing

You can do, it too…

Ultra Trail races are growing in popularity around the world, but perhaps the most unique version will take place in Angkor Wat on Jan. 23. Entrants will have the privilege to run through the archeological site of Siem Reap, right in the heart of the temples, whether they choose the 128km, 64km or 32km race. Also acting as a qualifying event for the Mont Blanc Ultra-Trail, the course will take in jungle tracks, sandy paths between tranquil lakes, and bring runners up close with the Cambodian countryside. For more information go to ultratrailangkor.com

French Kiwi Juice

San Art Laboratory Session 9

The Observatory, Q4 Thursday, Jan. 28

San Art, Binh Thanh Until Feb. 5

Thursday, Jan. 28 brings the live electronic groove maestro, French Kiwi Juice, back for the second time in a year. His performance in August was magical. So we have a new question. Will he be able to exceed his previous exploits? Rock down and find out for yourself. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC and the show starts at 9pm. Entry is free before 10pm and costs VND150,000 thereafter. For more info click on theobservatory-hcmc.com

If you’re a writer, artist, photographer, designer, performance artist, sound artist or fashion designer — and you’re Vietnamese and under 35 — then you have a chance to hang with the cool kids from all over Southeast Asia. Submit your art for evaluation from by Feb. 5, and if you’re chosen, you’ll get a living stipend, a US$1,000 production budget, accommodation and studio space... just for being badass at making art, and solely to

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make more badass art. If this sounds like your kind of scene, post up some art and see what happens... San Art is at 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, HCMC. For more info click on san-art.org or email hello@san-art.org

The Saigon Body Transformation Challenge Hoang Anh Gia Lai 3, Nha Be and City Garden, Binh Thanh Feb. 21 to Mar. 3 La Holista and Nicky’s Zumba® Fitness Clubs are teaming up to create the Saigon Body Transformation Challenge, a four-week fitness and

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ToDo

list HCMC

Tiesto will be playing for five nights at this year’s Hue Festival

Not for the weak-hearted. The Vietnam Victory Challenge returns in March

nutrition programme that will run from the end of February. The idea is simple — in fact it’s an idea we ran in Word for three years running. Who can lose the most body fat and most overall centimetres over a four-week period? But this is not about diet and starving yourself. Instead, by paying VND2,990,000 to join up (this is the early bird price before Jan. 31), you are in return being given a nutrition programme, with ingredients and supplements included, as well as a range of either yoga or Zumba sessions at Nicky’s Zumba Fitness Clubs in Districts 2 and 7. There are only 30 places available for this. So, if you’re going to make the leap, you’d better decide quickly. For info, email chiara@laholista.com or click on laholista.com/1st-saigon-bodytransformation-challenge-by-la-holista-andnickys-zumba-fitness-clubs. The launch will be from 3pm to 5pm on Feb. 21 at Hoang Anh Gia Lai 3, New Saigon, Block D1-1, Nguyen Huu Tho, Nha Be, HCMC while the final measurements will be taken exactly four weeks later at City Garden, 59 Ngo Tat To, Binh Thanh, HCMC

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Vietnam Victory Challenge

The Hue Festival

Dalat Mar. 11 to Mar. 13 and Mar. 19

Apr. 29 to May 4

Racers and enthusiasts from all over Southeast Asia are invited to enter the Vietnam Victory Challenge, a three-day biking and running event in mid-March. The mountain bike race, which will be held from Mar. 11 to Mar. 13, has a range of difficulty levels appropriate for beginner to advanced riders. The route also has feed stations along the way, and a lunch after each day’s race. Entry costs are US$215 per person. If you’re super-fit, enter one of the three grueling trail runs to be held on Mar. 19. Entrance is US$85 for the 50km run, US$55 for the 21k, run, and US$25 for the 10km run (with a discount of US$10 for locals and kids who entrer the 10km jamboree.) For more information, click on vietnamvictorychallenge.com. The website includes trail maps, details and registration forms

Artists and musicians from 20 countries will be descending on the former imperial capital of Vietnam to celebrate the 9th Annual Hue Festival at the end of April. Performing across the city, venues will include the Hue Citadel, An Dinh Palace and other locales in the complex of Hue monuments and the city’s stadiums. Although not all the musicians and acts have been announced yet, the playlist, so to speak, includes Japanese artist Kitaro, keyboardist and producer Yanni, and DJ Tiesto, who will ignite the evenings during a spectacular five-night run at Tu Do Stadium. If you want to gain a better understanding of Vietnamese culture and how it is merging with the modern age, then this is definitely one to pencil into your diary For more info, click on huefestival. com

overscene ho chi minh

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

christmas beerfest

Outcast adorned its Christmas hats and Santa-wear for a day of

beer, beer and more beer.

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

mui ne music & art festival

They came, they saw and they conquered. Over 4,000 people turned up to the first rendition of Mui Ne’s own version of

the music festival, and hell did it shake some butts

A decade of being the premiere five-star in town was celebrated at the Hyatt last month. Naturally, the

city’s makers and cocktail shakers turned out for the show.

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY PARK HYATT

and their many friends

henessy artistry

This year’s concert of superstars descended once again on the Nguyen Du Cultural Center, with British

R&B singer, Rita Ora, taking centre stage.

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY MOËT HENESSY

To celebrate an award-winning year, ad agency Leo Burnett put on a bash for staff

park hyatt turns 10

the opening of the deck 2

The Deck expanded last month, with the inauguration of a new riverside bar and lounge. And naturally, the

people behind the scenes put on a great bash

If you have a noteworthy event which you thinkwould fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look. Go to: wordvietnam.com/mediavp/photo-gallery for full viewing access.

PHOTOS BY OWEN SALISBURY

PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY

leo burnett party

Just HCMC

From new nail salons to cafes, coffee roasters, biographies and sports bars, the run up to Tet is getting busy

2 1

Hoa Tay mixes handicraft and yarn with good coffee and tasty smoothies

On the menu at My Chicken Run

Klasik is bringing tasty coffee to the heart of Saigon

Hoa Tay Located next to Hoang Anh River View in District 2, Hoa Tay is more than just your standard café, it’s a place for those who have passion for yarn and all things handmade. Opened towards the end of last year, the café offers a wide range of imported yarn, crochet and knitting tools, as well as handmade items including key rings, wire rings and fabric dolls. As part of its work for charity, Hoa Tay helps countryside women in need with yarn, patterns and the opportunity to sell anything they have made, with them receiving all proceeds. And for those who are interested in learning the art of needlework, free lessons are available. On the café front, Hoa Tay serves a tempting range of house smoothies as well as other typical café fare. A place to enjoy healthy drinks and the art of needlework. Hoa Tay is at 74/1A Nguyen Cu, Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC. Call 0984 735317 for more info

My Chicken Run If you think eating western-style chicken is all about the likes of KFC, think again. Adorned in industrial-style décor, My Chicken Run focus on roast

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chicken in all its various guises. The menu also offers up pork, bread, soups and burgers accompanied by organic vegetables bought from Dalat. Roasted chicken and pork can be served alone or in combos that include a vegetable mix of the day, rice, soup and house sauces. Also on offer is Vietnamese coffee, beer and soft drinks, as well as healthy juices drinks made from fruits and vegetables. And don’t forget to grab a bite of dessert before leave. Naturally, prices are affordable with a roasted drumstick starting at VND35,000. Make it into a combo and pay VND55,000. Healthy house drinks start at VND20,000 per glass. My Chicken Run is located at 162 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, HCMC

Klasik Coffee Roasters Ho Chi Minh City coffee scene has just welcomed a new member, Klasik Coffee Roasters. Opened in early January and located in the heart of District 1, this airy, contemporary cafe focuses on high-quality coffee imported from Asia, Central America and Africa. Focusing on freshness, all the beans are hand-roasted locally and then brewed on site according to the individual taste of the customers.

Naturally, to go with the coffee there is a food menu as well as a selection of cakes, and for those of you into their beans, here they’re for sale for you to take home with you. Klasik also offers workshops for those who are interested in the art of coffee making. Klasik Coffee Roasters is at 40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, HCMC or online at klasik.coffee. From Jan. 1 to Jan. 31, make any purchase in the shop and get one free Hawaii Maui moka coffee

Champion Situated in the backpacker area, Champion is a new player on the sports bar arena in Saigon. This spacious two-storey venue is equipped with large TV screens, an overhead projector, and comes with comfortable chair seating and dark-wood tables. Guests can either watching the live sports or head upstairs for a game of pool or darts. Naturally, as well as ice-cold beer, there’s a wide range of western and Vietnamese food available as well as a drinks list running the gamut from wine and cocktails through to beer and that drink of the moment, cider. Even if you’re not into the televised sports, this place is well worth a visit. Champion is at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, HCMC

Vietnam's favourite Brazilian restaurant.

, DISHES W E N H N OW WIT D A NEW FEEL. OK AN O L W NE

Au Lac Do Brazil I HCMC 238 Pasteur, Dist. 3 Tel: (08) 3820 7157 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682 pr@aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist Tel: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330 pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil III Nha Trang 101 Trinh Phong Str, Tan Lap Ward Tel: (058) 351 6661 - Hotline : 0916451669 pr_nhatrang@aulacdobrazil.com wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 35

Just HCMC

3 2

The back cover of Space Panther’s latest EP. No, they haven’t broken up

The Wonder of Her Love is a biography of Trish Franklin

Merci Nails & Café mixes the nail services this city is famous for with food and coffee

It’s a Private Affair…air…air… It’s a Private Affair…air

On the terrace at Top of the Town

The Pullman is bringing a slice of luxury to Vung Tau

The Pullman Vung Tau Hold onto your monocles and top hats, you fat cats, Vietnam’s fourth Pullman Hotel is now open in Vung Tau. Featuring 356 rooms and suites, and spectacular ocean views, the luxury Accor Pullman Hotel is sure to tone up the beachside nightlife in the closest resort town to Ho Chi Minh City. Only 95km from the heart of Saigon, the hotel is offering a lowered rate of VND1.77 million per night to celebrate its opening. So now you no longer need to head up the coast for a bit of seaside luxury. The Pullman Vung Tau is at 15 Thi Sach, Vung Tau or online at accorhotels. com. For more info, call them on (064) 355 1777

Top of the Town After a recent face-lift, Top of the Town is open again, boasting stunning views and excellent food. One of the first rooftop bars and restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City — yes, this place was up and running long before the present spate of venues — this is a great spot for couples out on the town hoping to marvel at the 360-degree view of Ho Chi Minh City, making it perfect for a romantic evening in the open-air

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terrace with high-class cocktails and an extensive menu. Top of the Town’s Terrace Bar is open from 3pm until 12am, while the restaurant serves from 6pm to 10pm. Top of the Town is on the 25th floor of the Windsor Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5. For more information, click on topofthetown.windsorplazahotel.com or call (08) 3833 6688

The Shri Whisky Library Pop Up Pop-up bars are finally a-coming to Ho Chi Minh City, and a certain major Scotch label is elevating the scene at Shri from now until May 2016 and beyond. If you like your whisky, and you like your fine women strong and peaty — at least 21 years old — then the Whisky Library is the spot for you to feel cool and look the part. Show up with all the hipsters and young professionals to celebrate life and good liquor. Certain Word writers (nameless) will definitely be joining you. Shri Restaurant and Lounge is on Level 23, Centec Tower, 72 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, HCMC. The Whisky Library is open from 4pm to 12am, seven days per week

Private Affair The Caravelle’s top floor bar, Saigon Saigon, has always had a reputation for its nightly live music. And the latest band to carry on the tradition of over five decades of entertainment is Private Affair. Hailing from Kiev, Ukraine, the band relocated to Asia a few years ago and since then have been playing some of the region’s most popular nightspots. They take the stage every Tuesday to Saturday night from 9pm until late, mixing 1980s pop classics with modern pop masterpieces. Saigon Saigon on the 10th Floor of the Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, HCMC. Private Affair will be playing nightly until December 2016

Space Panther Anyone’s who’s read the magazine knows we’ve been Space Panther fans since day one. Rumours had it that the electro astronauts had broken up. Far from it. They’ve just released three new tracks plus a secret one on a new EP, their second. Using artwork by Holm the Tooth, keep your ears peeled for more from Space Panther. Definitely not broken up!

5 Hear Space Panther’s new music at soundcloud.com/space-panther-1 check out more from Holm the Tooth at facebook.com/holmthetooth

The Wonder of Her Love Written by author Michael Adams, read the inspirational story of the Australian woman who battled insurmountable odds to set up Loreto Kids Charity in Vietnam. Although now relocated back to her native Australia, Trish Franklin is a modern hero in this country thanks

to her tireless dedication to the welfare of children across Vietnam. 45 percent of the book’s VND600,000 price will go straight to the charity, so you’re reading for a good cause. To get a copy of The Wonder of Her Love, contact Tuyen on tuyen@ loretovietnam.org, or call (08) 3910 6364

Merci Nails & Cafe Want a massage, a manicure and pedicure together with some gourmet food along the way? Using

imported products and boasting Ho Chi Minh City’s only waterless pedicure and manicure, the recently opened Merci is part comfy cafe, part high-class luxury nail salon. Starting at VND160,000 for a manicure, prices are reasonable, too, and even kids are catered for. Ladies and curious gents are welcome to come in and stay beautiful. Because you are, baby. You are. Merci is at 17/6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC and is open 9am to 9pm from Tuesday to Sunday. For more info click on merci-space.com or call (08) 3825 8799

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 37

ToDo

listHanoi

True Blue Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Until Jan. 12 After an absence of seven years, artist Le Quy Tong has returned with his new exhibition, True Blue, which demonstrates a clear new direction, with new techniques and themes previously absent from his art. The resulting body of work announces more than just a comeback; it marks a revitalizing chapter in Tong’s work and underlines his position as one of Hanoi’s most dedicated and resilient creative forces. Entry is free. Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

An image from the Le Quy Tong exhibition, True Blue

The BBGV is holding its annual football tournament this month

British comic Nik Coppin is returning to Hanoi for his second show

BBGV Football Tournament People’s Security Academy Stadium, Ha Dong Saturday, Jan. 9 The British Business Group Vietnam (BBGV) Inter-Company Football Tournament returns this month with 16 teams taking part in this annual event. The teams include British University Vietnam, British International School, Vietnam Airlines, PwC Vietnam, Jardines, Hongkong Land, Coats Phong Phu, Luala Milano, Savills, Grant Thornton, Hilton, Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake and B. Braun. There will also be a team from the British Embassy with the participation of Ambassador, Giles Lever. The top goalscorer will be awarded two return tickets to any destination in Southeast Asia by

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Vietnam Airlines. All funds raised will go to charity. For more info, contact Ms. Ta Ha Lan on lan.ta@bbgv.org, Tel: (04) 6674 0945. The tournament runs from 8.30am to 5pm and the People’s Security Academy Stadium is at C500, Road 19-5, Van Quan, Ha Dong, Hanoi

Experimenting with Liquid Nails Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Monday, Jan. 11 The experimental music duo Liquid Nails, comprising Sweden’s Mathias Kristersson and Jakob Riis from Denmark, was formed in 2009, and has been playing concerts in both musicians’ native countries. Coming to Vietnam for the first time, Liquid Nails will join forces with two Vietnamese musicians, dan tranh player Nguyen Thanh Thuy, and well-known cheo singer Doan Thanh Binh. Jakob Riis will be joining the Liquid Nails VN musical performances while Mathias Kristersson will provide visual accompaniment via a set of instructions in the form of small symbolic performances, live sculptures and approaches for the three participating live musicians to carry out during the concert in Hanoi and the performance in Hoi An. Due to limited seating capacity, registration is advised by emailing manzihanoi@gmail.com. Doors are at 8pm and entrance is free. Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

A Night with Nik Coppin House of Son Tinh — Highway 4, Tay Ho Thursday, Jan. 14 When Nik Coppin last came to Vietnam, the British comic’s flight to Hanoi was delayed by over a day, he had a run in with a taxi driver, and also got mugged. Or something like that. So enamoured was this well-known comedian with this country that he is coming back for a second battering. But it’s the audience who will get battered. As was discovered last time round, Coppin is a funny man. The comic behind the two highly acclaimed, Australian comedy shows, Shaggers and Huggers, Nik Coppin’s last tour of Southeast Asia was in preparation for his show, Mixed Racist — it debuted in the UK in 2014. With a father from Barbados and a mother from England, expect material that goes from the West Indies to the UK and back again, via a persona that has much in common with the likes of Eddie Izzard and Ross Noble. And expect Nik to be back with a vengeance. Budget airlines and dodgy taxi drivers? You’d better watch out. Entrance for the show is VND200,000 including a free drink and Nik will be supported by the Hanoi Comedy Collective. The House of Son Tinh — Highway 4 is at 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi (doors open at 8pm). For more information or to book tables, email dan@ highway4.com

Clean air for your children

Clean air as it is meant to be: 78% nitrogen 21% oxygen 1% CO2 and noble gases and nothing else

Clean air is crucial for student success Did you know? According to the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, respiratory illnesses are the most common cause of absenteeism, with asthma-related illnesses accounting for more than 14 million missed school days every year alone.

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 39

ToDo

listHanoi

One of the best known figures in the world of fusion music and trip hop, DJ Vadim will return to Hanoi for his second show

Word photographer, Julie Vola, will be running photography workshops from Jan. 19

Heavy metal fans brace yourself. The School of Mosh Festival is coming to Hanoi Creative City this month

1. Ambient trip hop duo Arms and Sleepers play at CAMA ATK

Arms and Sleepers CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Thursday, Jan. 14 Heading to CAMA this month are Arms and Sleepers, an ambient/ trip hop duo consisting of Max Lewis and Mirza Ramic. The band was formed in 2006 and have since released 18 albums and EPs, written music for film and TV, and performed live around the world. Their live act consists of Mirza alone, who will play in CAMA ATK for the first time as part of his Asia Tour 2016. Tickets are VND100,000 on the door; VND80,000 in advance. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm

DJ Vadim CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Jan. 15 DJ Vadim, veteran of over 2,500 performances in 69 countries, comes to CAMA ATK this month after a two-year absence, with his mix of electronic, hip-hop inspired music tinged with reggae, trip hop,

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soul, funk, grime, dub and bass, with elements of African rhythms, house and boogie. This renowned innovator has worked with talents such as Wretch 32, Foreign Beggars, Alice Russell, Sbtrkt, DJ Krush, The Herbaliser, Belleruche, Killa Kella, Fat Freddyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Drop and Super Furry Animals. In 1994, Vadim founded his own independent record label, Jazz Fudge, and signed to Ninja Tune the following year. So begun Vadimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s adventure that is now approaching its 20th year, and kicks off the New Year in Hanoi. Tickets are VND200,000 on the door; VND100,000 in advance. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm

Getting Composed London College for Design and Fashion, Tay Ho From Jan. 19 Word photographer Julie Vola is organising a 30-hour photography workshop to run on Tuesday and Thursday evenings. For people

using serious DSLR or hybrid cameras, it is designed for students keen to improve their technique as well as those aiming to gain a better understanding of their cameras. Topics to be covered include the use of light, correct use of aperture and shutter speed, composition and framing. The course fee is VND5.99 million. For more information email info@ designstudies.vn or call (04) 3719 9706. The London College for Design and Fashion is at 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Old Sounds of New Day Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Friday, Jan. 22 Some of the foremost proponents of Vietnamese traditional music will be holding the latest in a series of concerts called Old Sounds of New Day to support traditional musical values, and to tell a real story about traditional music in Vietnam. The Dong Kinh Co Nhac group, featuring the best masters of traditional music in town, will perform to a maximum of 30 people.

Tickets are VND200,000 per person (including one free drink). Due to the limited seating capacity please reserve your place by emailing manzihanoi@gmail.com before Tuesday, Jan. 19. The show kicks off at 8pm and Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

School Of Mosh Hanoi Creative City, Hai Ba Trung Saturday, Jan. 23 First And Last Records and Hanoi Scream are organising the School Of Mosh Festival 2016. With 15 bands from all over Vietnam, Thailand, South Korea and Hong Kong, School Of Mosh will be the biggest outdoor metal / hardcore festival in Hanoi yet. Throughout the day, there will also be a range of street activities such as skateboarding, graffiti, streetwear, tattoos and piercings. Tickets start at VND180,000, including one Jagermeister / Monster drink per person. Hanoi Creative City is at 1 Luong Yen, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

overscene hanoi

descended on Blue Bird’s Nest Café

PHOTOS BYJULIE VOLA

to the first — the live band evening.

birthday of sidewalk

market day

Maison de Tet’s market days have been drawing in the crowds. Their Christmas

Hanoi Rock City celebrated its five-year anniversary with three nights of events. We got

market was no different.

Everyone’s favourite West Lake bar and grill turned one last month, and half of the

area turned up to celebrate

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

a swedish christmas

The Swedish Embassy put on their annual Christmas celebration to the taste of hot mulled wine and

saffron buns, and the sounds of a traditional Lucia choir singing Swedish carols

PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

Courtesy of Ajar Press, a night of bilingual poetry, wine and readings

PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

HRc turns f ive

poetry night

PHOTO PROVIDED BY REACH

Just Hanoi

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

Toong will soon be opening its second co-working space on To Ngoc Van. These photos are from its location on Trang Thi

The Sea House — just opened

Reach provides free vocational training to overcome youth unemployment

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

Charity awards, co-working spaces, makeovers and a new seafood restaurant

Reaching out Hanoi-based charity Reach, which works to overcome youth unemployment in Vietnam by providing free vocational training, has received a prestigious Stars Foundation Impact Award. Reach is one of two Vietnamese charities to be recognised, alongside the Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation, and will receive US$50,000 in flexible funding and capacity building support. Speaking in Paris, Reach Executive Director Pham Thi Thanh Tam said that affordable skills training and vocational education was vital in improving the livelihoods of disadvantaged youth. “More than 1,200 young people complete Reach’s three-month vocational training programme each year, and over 80 per cent of graduates find a stable job within six months of graduation.” For more info on reach click on reach. org.vn

Seafood On the Lake A new seafood shop and restaurant

has opened in the West Lake area known simply as the Sea House. High quality fresh and frozen seafood, using suppliers from places such as Phu Quoc, is available on the first floor, while the restaurant occupies two floors above, with an international seafood menu created by the venue’s Spanish chef. Apart from the in-house menu, Sea House offers a fish and chips special takeaway. Sea House is at 178 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Tel: 0983 956615

Hive of Activity A new co-working space named Toong is set to open in the middle of January in Hanoi’s West Lake area. The space covers 1000m2 with 180 seats and offers flexible or dedicated space starting from 12m2. Casual users can pay VND90,000 for three hours, and there are packages for 40 and 80 hours per month. Fixed space starts at VND2.99 million, and a virtual office is available at VND2.5 million.

Other amenities include a business lounge, a bar, a games room and a pantry. Toong (Vietnamese for ‘beehive’) is located above the Olympia Fitness Centre in the compound at the end of To Ngoc Van, next to the London College for Design and Fashion and Morning Star International School. Toong is at 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For more info, click on toong. com.vn

Madake Makeover West Lake bar favourite Madake has a new concept, relaunching as a Vietnamese restaurant, and to be known as Hop Tac Xa Mau Dich. The restaurant features a new balcony and mezzanine outside, and what was formerly the music room is now a new dining area. The kitchen has been completely renovated. The theme, according to the owners, is nostalgia, harking back to the pre-doi moi days. The new Madake is still at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. However, it will have a new name and a new concept. Watch this space

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 43

Insider

Saigon's Grand Old Ad Man / Jay Rao / The Creativity Debate / Tattoo Art / The Creative's Guide to Hanoi / Leathercraft CafĂŠs / Sketches of Hanoi / Edible Art / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Street Snacker Hanoi / Top Eats HCMC / Street Snacker HCMC / Boracay / The Island of Change / The Motorbike Diaries

Photo by Julie Vola

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wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 45

Insider here — but that’s true globally. There’s less emphasis on creativity now,” he says. Later, he says he thinks the pendulum will swing back, but the sense of uncertainty persists.

The Future of Advertising in Vietnam

MANY FACES

VIETNAM

Saigon’s Grand Old Ad Man Here since the late 1990s, creative director, musician and general man about town, Rick Reid has been in a unique position to see the development of an industry. Words by Owen Salisbury. Photo by Kyle Phanroy

“I

’m the git with the white hair everywhere.” This is how Rick Reid describes himself to me when we arrange to meet. It’s a self-deprecating, down-toearth statement for a man who’s been in the forefront of the modern advertising industry in Vietnam since the last millennium. When I arrive, he’s surveying the Bui Vien crowds and sipping his beer, the image of a man at his ease. A bulky older Australian gent with flyaway white hair, he exudes bluff, effortless charm, the sort of bloke who laughs from his belly and slaps you on the back with a drink in his other hand. During his career, he’s watched first-hand as Vietnam entered the global economy, noting with an ad-man’s weighing eye the country’s growth and change.

Arriving in Vietnam in 1999 as Creative Director for GPB, Rick found a country flushed with a culture that reminded him of the freewheeling 1980s back in Australia, when major brands sought to make their advertisements fun, and were willing to shell out the cash for it. “It really was wonderful,” he says. “Coming here in the new century, there was an energy... you could get the chance to do good work. I had the time of my life.” After several years, he left Bates and picked up another gig in Ho Chi Minh City, staying longer than intended. In 2007, he started CreativeLife with two partners, a kind of emeritus advertising consultant. "It's a way of keeping my hand in," he says, "and keeping up with the industry I love. There were three of us at first, now there are two."

“A Million Dollar Budget Was Nothing”

A Creative Life

Starting in advertising right out of school, Rick worked in Sydney in his formative professional years. In the 1990s, he visited Hong Kong and Bangkok a number of times while working for George Patterson Bates (GPB), a global ad agency. “People respected creativity then... a million dollar budget was nothing. I’d do half a dozen of those a year,” he says. “Now it’s all about the bottom line.”

The CreativeLife website lists every type of media imaginable; given Rick’s decades of experience, it’s not hard to picture him writing copy, painting a new logo, designing some slick splash page, directing a photo shoot or a TV commercial. While Rick is hopeful about the future of innovative and creative advertising, especially in Vietnam, some doubts persist. “I have sadly seen creativity dip a bit

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When asked about what’s coming in the next decades, he’s optimistic. “You can tell by the fact that all the major networks are here that they can see the future,” he says. When Rick arrived in Vietnam, he was an outlier. Now all the major advertising houses — the ultra-large international concerns like Saatchi and Saatchi, Ogilvy and Mather, Dentsu, J. Walter Thompson and Lowe Vietnam — fly the flag here. They know a major emerging market when they see it, just as Rick did. He pinpoints Vietnam’s demographics as the key — the high amount of people under 30 and the growing middle class. Millions of potential customers come of age each year, graduating and getting a job. That means big business, if not now, then certainly in years to come. “They [the major ad agencies] know the opportunities are here. They’re probably not making a lot of money at the moment, but that will change,” he says. He adds another note of caution in the midst of his overall optimism. “I know people who came here in the 1990s — wow, 85 million people, what a market — who failed, because the market wasn’t ready.” Rick also says that while there’s probably not a huge amount of space in the market due to the presence of the major global agencies and the market’s immaturity, a few local ad houses will open and thrive — as long as they can stay innovative and relevant. “Perhaps when local brands get more into advertising... local brands think advertising is a cost and not an opportunity. It’s an investment,” he emphasizes.

The Nuisance Business Rick is passionate in a low-key way about his industry; its past, its future and its changing nature. He’s adamant that good advertising is a form of entertainment, one that needs imagination and skill. He also keeps his distance from the current obsession with social media marketing and advertising. “Digital is not the answer, it’s another spoke in the wheel. You’ve got to make whatever you do a little bit compelling, and a little bit intriguing... and almost insightful. You still need a good idea.” Looking around, he notes the profusion of signs, the brand-names and logos everywhere on Bui Vien. “We’re in the nuisance business. That’s why creativity is so important.” Rick’s company, Creative Life, can be found online at creativelife.asia

Insider

Jay Rao As the Hollywood studios descend on Vietnam to film their latest blockbusters, the independent moviemakers are also on site. R. Gabriel Villalobos talks to Jay Rao, the man behind a new Vietnamese short, Unforgettable

or people who watch their share of foreign films Asia has always had so much to offer. Director Zhang Yimou (China) is an international favourite but Vietnamese film, among foreign audiences, has belonged to Tran Anh Hung, a Vietnamese-born French director. He’s famous for what has come to be known as his Vietnamese Trilogy. Three films in the 1990s that are not part of the same narrative, but all feature Vietnam and its culture as a central element. Film lovers who move to Vietnam might feel a bit deflated by what is found playing in theatres. Most local movies that get released seem to be romantic comedies or ghost

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stories. Until 2010 that is, when a movie called Floating Lives hit the screens. Based on a novel called The Eternal Rice Field, the story is of a poor, broken family that finds itself living on a boat to raise ducks on the Mekong River. The movie was an unexpected plunge into drama, nuance and tragedy. For many, it represented the exciting arrival of naturalism to Vietnamese cinema that they had been hoping for. It was full of the texture and sadness of life among the less fortunate. This film was 100 percent a product of Vietnam. It seemed like filmmakers here were finally rising to the challenge of naturalistic storytelling. Sadly, very little has been done to follow up on that promise.

Enter Jay Rao Four years ago Toronto-based director, Jay Rao, moved to Vietnam. One thing led to another and he ended up shooting a film here. Rao agreed to meet to talk about his new Vietnamese short titled Unforgettable. The story is of a man who has an accident and wakes up with no memory of who he is or what his life is all about. Rao is not a tall man but he’s very fit, and well groomed. He looks like the kind of guy who would challenge you to a game of racquetball just to show you how easily he can whip your ass. Once you get him talking it’s easy to tell he is Canadian, he’s just that nice. After sitting down, he began with a bit of Star

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 49

Wars small talk — he confessed that he’s eager to see the new film. He continued by talking about the process he’s going through with his music composer to finish his piece that is now in post-production. He describes the difficulty he’s experiencing in communicating his needs to the guy who is writing all the music for his film. With visible tension, Rao admits: “I don’t speak the language of a musician.” It’s tough for him to know how a mood should translate into music and sound. It’s tougher still to convey it in e-mails or over the phone. Still, he expects everything to be

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finished and ready for viewing this month, and plans to have the first screening party shortly thereafter.

The World is Ready… The teaser trailer on his YouTube channel is conspicuously lacking Foley (normal background) sound, yet it still manages to be compelling. The sound design is one of the final details being polished up in postproduction. This is his eighth short film but his first time working in Vietnam. Rao believes that the world is ready to see films from Vietnam, but that international audiences

aren’t really interested in the slapstick or ghost stories that dominate the local box offices. He doesn’t see his audience as limited to the foreign market either. “I think people’s tastes are changing here,” he tells me. “It’s happening in India too.” Rao’s parents are originally from India but moved to Canada in the 1960s. India is known for its Bollywood musicals that were the only things getting made for a long time. Today there is a blossoming interest in films that tell more realistic, gritty stories of dayto-day life and the extraordinary things that can happen in that context.

The movie Slumdog Millionaire was an ambitious crossover that told an Indian story for international audiences and ended up winning the Academy Awards for best cinematography and best picture. That was a film that wasn’t supported by any major American film studio. While he is clearly not implying that he expects his work to grab an Oscar, he still sees every reason to be optimistic that the film will be good and audiences here and abroad will like it.

The Unknown He goes on to say how excited he was

to work with relatively unknown actors here. He found them to be competent professionals who gave him everything the story needed. When asked about his concerns, he says: “I’m a natural-born worrier. One thing I don’t want is for Vietnamese people to see the film and feel like it’s unnatural.” He wants his hand as a foreign director to be more or less undetectable. He doesn’t want people here to watch and think “Vietnamese people don’t say things like that,” or “I would never do this”. His project has already caught the eye

of foreign investors who are excited by the prospect of making a full-length feature film in Vietnam. They want to make something fresh and original that will stand as a memorable piece of art and at the same time be successful in reaching foreign audiences at festivals and by selling rights to various countries. With King Kong set to film in Vietnam early this year, Rao is showing us that the sandbox is not exclusive to big-budget studio pictures. There is every chance for small projects to come here and tell stories, including Vietnamese ones. To see the trailer, click on YouTube and search for Unforgettable Film Trailer 3

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Cover Story

e y t h i v T ati te er ba C De

Creativity is everywhere, and we love it, but with all this self-expression going on, who’s going to water the plants? Jon Aspin waded into a debate about creativity and making money from being artistic. In the process he copped a bit of a beat-down

ith this issue of Word in mind, I did something recently I don’t normally do. I walked into a potential hornets nest of internet abuse, attempting to play devil’s advocate on a well known artist’s Facebook page. Blatantly piggy-backing his popularity, I dared to comment on a post that questioned the practice of businesses who expect creatives to work for free. The post in question was a link to a clever two-and-a-half minute film, which goes to the specific point of advertising agencies being asked to give away their work for nothing. It’s what their industry calls ‘spec’ work, and is routinely used as the stick attached to the carrot of securing more. At the end of the film, viewers (other agencies) are encouraged to say no to the practice. Made by an agency in Toronto, it features a guy going around asking for free stuff; ‘spec’ personal training, ‘spec’ breakfasts, ‘spec’ coffee and even ‘spec’ architectural designs. It’s funny and gets its point across well. However, the whole thing was just a little bit ‘meta’ for my Sunday afternoon brain one day, and so my Facebook logic went like this; surely by doing free work (ie. making the film) the agency in question has in fact proven that by doing something for ‘nothing’, you can in fact get ‘something’? So I took what I thought was a reasonable opportunity to stir the pot.

Pursuing Creativity

Getting away from my internet skirmish for a moment, breaking into your dream creative job is tough. Whether or not to work for nothing is a dilemma for anyone starting off. The experts stance is don’t — don’t work for free — but the temptation for young people to say yes, when all it might take is one ‘break,’ is strong. Long time Ho Chi Minh City gallery owner Craig Thomas appeared to agree. “Truly pursuing a creative path to make your living is rarely going to be easy,” he said. “There will always be a limited number of possibilities and you will most often have to take whatever opportunities arise — even if they are unpaid in the beginning.” To support his theory I only have to look as far as my housemate. A TV commercial director from Sydney, he freely admits that he did his first job for free. The client bought it, it aired and he got paid nothing. However, crucially, he did get the chance to do another one, this time paid, then another, and another, and so on. Now he’s pitching for national airline campaigns and recently did a beer ad featuring 100 ‘angry’ brides in Cambodia. It’s not Madison Avenue yet, but it’s not a bad living either. So, with so many creative opportunities all around us, especially in an economy where we can pursue passions and maintain a decent lifestyle simultaneously, should people still accept opportunities to work for free, or at least under the award rate? I decided to ask around.

Work for Free or Free for Work?

Claire Driscoll, creative director of Hanoi’s Work Room Four, a creative hub for designers, learners and educators, said that the practice was something that had to change. “It shouldn’t be something people have to do to progress their careers,” she said, and cited websites like Fiverr, where you can go and get a logo done for two bucks, as devaluing the entire process. She also called for a rethink generally, likening the exploitation of creatives to punishment; punishment for not choosing careers as doctors or lawyers. Concerned that my

article might even suggest that it was okay to take advantage of an over-supply of people wanting to have creative careers, she asked me a direct question herself. “Do you believe anyone should work for free?” “No” I replied. “Well then, there is no argument to be had.” I’d definitely touched a nerve. Shyevin S’Ng, founder of Vin Gallery and Vin Space in Ho Chi Minh City, was in agreement, imploring governments to support their talent, for fear of creativity becoming the privilege of the rich. “There’s still not enough support for local artists, especially in Saigon,” she began. “Creative people here need support. If they suffer, I believe society suffers, so creativity always deserves ‘fair pay’.” Coming at it from a slightly different angle was Daniel Gordon Jones, who’s the man in charge of the Vietnam Creative Circle Facebook group, not to mention ‘Head of Things’ at DDB in Vietnam. His philosophy was fairly simple; “If they’re good, they’re valuable, just like in any industry, because talent is few and far between.” I thought his follow up was on the money, too. “If you have artistic talent in Vietnam, you are valuable, but you’ve got to have that magic.”

Am I Good Enough?

The magic he refers to can come in all shapes and sizes of course. Coming up in several conversations I had was Saigon Outcast, which virtually sustains a micro-economy of its own. Events like the Farmers Market, Urban Flea Market, Melting Pot and the recent beer festivals prove that creativity is indeed everywhere, and when given an outlet, can shine even if it doesn’t pay the bills at first. Which brings us back to the film and my original devil’s advocate position. To clarify, it was this. If the market you operate in continues not to value your work, or at ‘zero’ with only the potential for actual money ‘later’, surely you’d be better off re-directing your labour, your creativity, elsewhere. In so doing you exercise the ability to analyse, adapt and innovate into another area of the economy. Admittedly, in my argument there was a fairly clumsy analogy about crushing grapes and I was accused of coming from a different planet by one commenter. But the point still stands, and surely must be something that most creatives confront at some point: the question, ‘am I any good at this? Am I good enough to overcome the market condition that exists that makes people in positions of power feel ok about asking for something for nothing.’ Kristopher Kotcher was the well-known artist’s Facebook page that I attempted hijack for the afternoon, and so on this issue it’s appropriate for him to have the final say. “There are times where working for free is ok. Like if it’s for a non-profit or a cause that you believe in, or even when you’re starting out to try and build your portfolio. But that being said you should know when to say no. Especially when you know the client has the money to pay.” He concludes: “Don’t fall for the ‘But it’s good exposure’ line. There’s a reason you only hear about exposure when it’s someone who died on a mountaintop or got radiation poisoning. No thanks. You can’t pay your bills with exposure.” Case closed? Watch the video referenced in this article on YouTube. Search ‘say no to spec’ and press play. At the time of writing it had 1,717,212 views

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Mad Men Women & Jon Aspin sent out a bunch of hypothetical print advert briefs to some of Ho Chi Minh City’s best young creative talent, and in the process may just have stumbled upon something very real.

his month, in the service of creativity, we put out the call to several advertising agencies in Ho Chi Minh City in the hope of enlisting their creative firepower in a challenge. The challenge? To answer one of several fake briefs created by us at Word, then have us judge and critique their work. Leo Burnett were the first agency to answer the call, lending us the grey matter of no less than twelve of their junior creatives. We had hoped to pit them against another network agency but having met them, we figured that these young Vietnamese were enough on their own, so impressive were they in verse and presentation. As it happens, it couldn’t have been more timely as their agency had just picked up ‘Campaign Asia’s Southeast Asian Agency of the Year’ award, a fact that MD Lukasz Thank you to executive creative director was keen we should Jeremy Southern for his time in helping to mention in this piece. make this happen, and to Lukasz and Alok for We were even fortunate the party invite! We had a great time. Please enough to get invited to keep winning awards and inviting us along. their celebration party If you work in an agency or are a creative a couple of Fridays ago, yourself and think you would like to take and posed happily next part in something similar, please to several better looking, contact jon@wordvietnam.com. more successful people than us, as we tend to do at these things. But what reason for the

Special Thanks

challenge? For the opportunity to push the boundaries, and test the theory that the advertising a society consumes, is a mark of its level of overall creativity. That and all the open bar parties we’d heard about in this industry. Touché. So without further ado, here are the briefs we sent to the Leo Burnett in Saigon’s finest young creative talent. These are all young interns and junior staffers trying to achieve their dreams as writers, art directors and all round idea generators. Who knows who sits amongst them now, Vietnam’s next flappy bird creator? Whatever the case, the only rules were that the ads had to be in English, be a full-page A4, and not contain the usual no go content in Vietnam; fun stuff like sex, drugs and alcohol, as we would like to be able to print it. — MSG: The Unsung Hero — Shame people who text while talking to their friends — A campaign for bicycle lanes in the city — A dating service that tells you what your children will look like — Banning junk food and eating healthy, Vietnamese cuisine All of the creatives worked hard in teams, and on a tight timeline to deliver some great results, remembering that English is none of their native tongues. We don’t have room to print them all, so here are the best (according to us) along with a brief strategy statement from the creators themselves. We hope you enjoy their work. The rest will be available online at wordvietnam.com. Tell us what YOU think at editor@wordvietnam.com.

The Adverts

Title: “Texting pulls you away from your friends” The Brief: Shame people who text while talking to their friends The creators: Vuong Bao Ngo, Truong Huu Luan and Tran Thi Thanh Van

What the creators say: This print advert should be simple enough to pinpoint what’s happening, yet at the same time is cheeky and light-hearted. After all, we’re talking to texters. They wouldn’t appreciate anything too serious. Using the familiar device of talk bubbles, we convey the message that texting is pulling texters away from their friends, without them even realising it.

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Title: “The phone with benefits” The Brief: Shame people who text while talking to their friends The creators: Roman Stratiychuk (art) and Nhung Nguyen (words)

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What the creators say: The phone itself cannot do any harm, though the idea of people reaching you at all times is a bit frustrating. Therefore the phone turns into an enemy whenever you are closer to it than those around you. Eating, drinking, sleeping, going to the restroom, making love (okay, before or after), you always seem to do it with the PHONE. So, here’s the PHONE WITH BENEFITS for those who keep looking and singing a love song to their phones.

The Adverts

He ﬁnally did it !

It's amazing.

Let's celebrate together.

TEXTING SPOILS THE ATMOSPHERE OF YOUR CONVERSATION PUT THE PHONE DOWN

Title: “Is it really a conversation?” The Brief: Shame people who text while talking to their friends The creators: Concept by Khue Tran (art), Mai Do (words) and Vy Do (words)

What the creators say: We want people who text while talking with other people to think again. Are they really having a conversation? When you text while talking, you leave the other person looking dumb, feeling disrespected or it is as if they are a duck ‘quacking’ nonsense because your mind is somewhere else.

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Title: “Kung Fu on the road” The Brief: A campaign for bicycle lanes in the city The creators: Concept by Trang Nguyen (art) and Anh Thu Nguyen (words)

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What the creators say: The main idea here is that the city’s streets are a very dangerous place and a tough route for cyclists. If you want a safe ride, you need to prepare yourself to make some kung fu moves, because they are very helpful when riding in cities like Saigon.

The Adverts

Title: Electricity Lane The Brief: A campaign for bicycle lanes in the city The creators: Trang Nguyen (art) and Anh Thu Nguyen (words)

What the creators say: Electricity Lane is a sarcastic way of saying that you do not need to queue or line up on a busy and dangerous street, because we have a more convenient and safer lane. Although riding on an electricity cable is crazy and impossible, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not as dangerous as riding on the city streets.

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y r a r

o p m e t t n r o A C

We asked three galleries to choose one picture that they felt represented the state of art in Vietnam in 2015. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what they chose

“N

go Van Sac’s generation of contemporary artists born in the post-war period have become the most important players in the country’s visual arts scene. They have been exposed to the wider art world in a way that was denied previous generations, and their work is in a sense less provincial and more truly ‘contemporary’. Artists like Sac — whose previous work was in wood burn — exhibit a greater willingness to experiment with various mediums and materials. Sac’s work addresses contemporary social issues like the tension between nature and spreading urbanization of the country.”

Craig Thomas Gallery Fading 2 by Ngo Van Sac Collage and mixed media on canvas, 155 x 155cm, 2015

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Art Vietnam Gallery

Artist’s House 65 Nguyen Thai Hoc by Nguyen The Son Version 2, Photo relief, 79cm x 76cm, 2015

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“T

his house was designated as a house for artists by the government in the 1930s and became an artists’ colony in which a dozen artists worked, lived and ran a gallery, such as Mai Van Hien, a beloved artist who designed the Vietnamese Dong and worked closely with Ho Chi Minh to exhibit the works of Vietnamese artists abroad. This work honours history but is executed in a 3D photo relief; high-tech meets history and moves on into the future. It represents the Vietnam of the present, [racing forward at breakneck speed]. And yet the history and transition of time during this transformation remains visibly transparent.”

“D

rawing upon a range of references from art history to contemporary culture, Truc-Anh creates art that transcends borders. Her practice does not mirror any stereotype or cliché of Vietnamese art. As Vietnamese as they are — local or belonging to the diaspora — the artists today in Vietnam are developing their own individual practice that is rooted in their life, their experiences and their vantage point of the world in which they live. This is far more [important] than the nationality reflected on their passport. Just like their international peers, Vietnamese contemporary artists are creating dialogues, fractures and surprises to engage viewers to reshape their vision of reality.”

Galerie Quynh

Papa by Truc-Anh Oil and pastel on canvas, 220cm x 150cm, 2013 to 2014

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The Canvas

Some art is created to be kept and marveled upon. Other art is produced live for no other reason than the enjoyment of creating art and the effect it induces on the audience. Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy.

PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER

ocated on a land site facing the sea, December’s Mui Ne Music & Arts Festival was only in part focused on live music. Installed into two, three-storey sets at the wings of the main live music stage was a blank, 100m-long canvas. Throughout the three days of the festival well over a dozen artists would work on it to create what would be the largest artwork ever fashioned in this part of Asia. Yet when we arrived at 4pm on the Friday afternoon, the party had yet to start. Or at least the music. Several artists were already painting the canvas with different styles and shapes. “The key word is the journey!” said Lee Wessels, from Live Art Saigon. Twelve international artists including sculptors, designers, VJs, graffiti artists and painters, inspired by this key word, let the paintbrush express their journey in their own ways. The result was a canvas with a combination of hand paintings, graffiti, coloured geometric shapes and abstract images. “What are the standards required for artists to get involved with this?” I asked. “Standards? No, these are my friends and we are doing this for fun and art,” he replied.

3D Mapping

Not only was the canvas an incredible artwork, but it was also an expression of

the enthusiasm of the whole team, Live Art Saigon, which had spent more than two weeks getting everything ready for the festival. It was a live performance starting on the Friday afternoon and continuing after dusk. But if you had left the festival too early on the Sunday, you would have missed the chance to see the final artwork. “Some sections are being left for the 3D mapping guy,” said Lee, while pointing at the canvas. At this time, I had no idea what he was talking about. As day turned to night, the music and lights came up. In the dark, the festival looked like a ruby stone with pink lights installed at the triangle-shaped fence. Lights on the main stage, especially around the canvas, became brighter, more spectacular. Daniel Day Long, the 3D mapping guy, spent hours doing the video mapping on the canvas, following the outline of the sections left by Live Art Saigon’s artists. Depending on the night and area, different types of light were displayed through a projector, making the canvas more marvellous than ever. “How long have you been doing this?” I asked. “Three years,” he replied, his eyes staying on the mapping screen. I couldn’t carry on the conversation as the music got louder and louder. He was intent on his work, too, and I wanted to enjoy the masterpiece.

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Film in Vietnam

Beautiful scenery, technical expertise, a low-cost economy. Jon Aspin attempts to ask why big budget productions are the exception rather than the rule in Vietnam.

A scene from The Quiet American directed by Phillip Noyce

here’s no denying that Vietnam looks stunning on film. Any cinematographer or photographer worth their salt loves coming back to this country. Sweeping aerial shots of Halong Bay, drone footage of the Sapa Valley and even time-lapse photography of Saigon’s traffic. These are just a few of the images that immediately come to mind, and that’s without mentioning the people. When I was lucky enough to be part of a big Australian beer ad that shot last year in Hanoi and Sapa (see ‘I shot a big beer ad’, April 2015), I joined up with a professional crew who’d literally travelled the world in search of the perfect visual landscape for their story. This had included the snowy hinterlands of central Europe, the deserts of Dubai, the city of Prague and cage diving with Great White sharks in South Africa. Sean Izzard, a twenty-five year veteran and part of the highly respected creative group The Pool Collective in Sydney, was the stills photographer on the 21-day shoot. “Vietnam was the highlight for me,” he said. “Especially travelling up north into the mountains of Sapa. It was quite amazing.” “Even in the downtime there were shots to be had. This amazing cloud would just come through the village at night-time, it was so ethereal and surreal, quite spectacular.”

Blockbuster

Traditionally though, filming in Vietnam has been difficult. While the country itself has been the subject of

many a film, the most famous of them have all been shot elsewhere. It was ‘too soon’ perhaps for the likes of Apocalypse Now (1979) which was made in the Philippines, Full Metal Jacket (1987) and Platoon (1986); also the Philippines. One notable exception is the Phillip Noyce directed adaptation of Graham Greene’s novel, The Quiet American, which most booksellers will have a copy of. The director himself said this about shooting in Saigon, during a 2011 interview. “We thought there would be big challenges, but they disappeared. The Vietnamese government were very helpful in helping us to find locations, and getting people to co-operate with the production.” Noyce expressed his surprise in terms of the level of technical expertise available to him, even back then (the film was released in 2002), and heaped praise on his second unit director Dang Nhat Minh especially, crediting him with the look of the climactic scenes of the movie, when the bomb goes off outside the old Continental Hotel. “We didn’t realize how efficient Vietnamese filmmakers were, in every aspect of film making,” he said.

Tick in the Ointment

So, let’s see. Beautiful scenery. Tick. Technical expertise. Tick. A low-cost economy. Hmm, still a tick. Surely Vietnam should be a veritable goldmine for big budget television and film production, with so many elements working in its favour. Right? Well, apparently not, and it’s the usual suspects

Jeremy Clarkson rides through the streets of Vietnam in the Top Gear: Vietnam Special

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who tourist operators have been pointing the finger at, blaming mismanagement and extortionate “licence fees” for missing out on opportunities to advertise Vietnam’s natural beauty to the world. For every success story, it seems, scratch the surface just a little, and you’ll find crews and directors who have had little choice but to take their productions elsewhere, usually Thailand or Malaysia. In October, Tuoi Tre (Youth) News ran an article suggesting tourist operators were accusing the Vietnam Cinema Department of failing to exploit the opportunity to market Vietnam because they were unaware the US$150million Warner Brothers animated film Peter Pan, had used scenes from Halong Bay, En Cave and Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex, in its recreation of ‘Neverland’. In the article, journalists from the paper quoted multiple travel firms as saying they had been asked to assist foreign film crews, but would usually be discouraged by local authorities because of their rigid requirements in granting a film licence. In her defence, the head of the department, Ngo Phuong Lan said that people cannot be accused of missing and wasting an opportunity if they have no prior knowledge of it. While it’s likely true that she didn’t know about it, it is symptomatic of a wider problem. Basically when you dig a little deeper, it does appear that the process as it stands seems to be somewhat mired in procedures and rules.

Location, Location

Still, good things can happen here and professionals from all over the world can make a living in film and related media here. It’s still an industry that leans heavily on foreign talent in key roles, meaning the world of television production is littered with people

A still from an advert shot in Vietnam in March for Hahn Super Dry

like Terry Gordon, who’s been working in production support for foreign commercial crews here since 2009. Lately he’s just wrapped another series of Luke Nguyen’s cooking show and counts the Discovery Network, the Travel Channel and Nat Geo as regular clients. He echoes the problems above relating specifically to permits, and points out his competitive advantage as a foreigner. “There is inherently a lack of a sense of urgency from some local companies when replying to overseas productions,” Terry says. “International producers get some comfort from working with an experienced expat who can guide them and their crew through preproduction and then into location shooting.” He also agrees that in terms of feature films especially, the industry could be doing more, pointing to the potential for rebates, better infrastructure and a better overall environment to allow international productions to operate efficiently. On the whole, he believes there is talent here and that pool can only get bigger. Speaking of international productions, next month, to make everyone feel better, King Kong 2: Skull Island is at least rumoured to be filming in the world’s largest cave, Son Doong in the central province of Quang Binh. Set global release on Mar. 10, 2017, the movie stars Tom Hiddleston, Samuel L. Jackson and Brie Larson. It appears to represent the biggest opportunity to promote the country to a global audience for free since the boys from Top Gear went coast-to-coast in tailormade suits. Shrouded in secrecy like most of these things, my attempts to probe the production drew a blank, though I’m proud to say that Word will be represented, as our photographer Trung Del will take up a position as assistant property manager during the shoot.

Yes, Vietnam's got some stunning scenery

Phillip Noyce talks to Brendan Fraser on set during the filming of The Quiet American

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A Physical Release to Freedom Contemporary dance is on an upward growth spiral. Si창n Kavanagh speaks to the people who use their bodies and movement as a form of self-expression

A scene from Stories of Us by Together Higher. Photo by Cervantes

mbarrassment about dancing transcends any language or culture. Most of us wouldn’t dare dance outside the safety of our bedrooms for fear of looking like our old drunk uncle at the family gathering last year. To even talk about dancing can bring out the shyness in many who would prefer the gentle comfort of a two-foot-tap mixed with a little finger pointing and off–beat headbobbing. Dancing is reserved for those who can do it properly, the professionals; the rest of us live our lives awkwardly shuffling upon any dance floors we encounter. There are some who live with a different mentality,

who embrace dance but who also believe there is a need for all of us to do the same. “Dancing is important in any culture or community as the ability to dance is inside us all,” explains John Huy Tran of Urban Dance Group. “Put on a piece of music, and a baby instinctually can find easily the rhythm. It is so human to let ourselves dance and allow ourselves to enjoy it as we do it.”

The Need to Move

Dancing can be a powerful tool of expression, and contemporary dance is all about storytelling through movement. Though this particular style is relatively new

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and has only been developed since the mid-20th century, it has become popular the world over. Vietnam has also seen a growth in interest, spurred on by the annual Europe Meets Asia Contemporary Dance Festival in Hanoi. Now running for five years, the celebration of this both physical and visual art has seen increasing numbers of dancers from different countries getting involved. “Dancing is a way to release difficulties in your life, it’s the way you express your happiness,” explains Luu Thi Thu Lan of Together Higher. “When you feel something is right, you just need to move your body.” To take a closer look at contemporary dance in Vietnam we spoke with dancers in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi to find out more about why they dedicate so much of their lives to this form of physical expression. We connected with Together Higher who were the first contemporary dance company to form in Hanoi in 2002, as well as Kinergie Dance Studio in Hanoi and Urban Dance Group in Ho Chi Minh City. Unlike traditional folk dancing, ballet or jazz, contemporary dance has less structure to the movement, and as Lan of Together Higher says: “You don’t need to have extraordinary technique to have strong emotional capability as a contemporary dancer.”

Platform

Together Higher Dance Company was established in Hanoi in 2002 after the success of their first contemporary dance project of the same name. Cofounded by husband and wife Ly Vu Long and Luu Thi Thu Lan, they use contemporary dance as a platform to share stories of social injustice that would normally not be told. Ly Vu Long studied contemporary dance in France before returning to Vietnam to share this new style with his wife and peers. “In [Long’s] choreography for Together Higher he goes deep into personality, to express social issues, the uncommonly shared things,” explains Lan, “[Long] used to choose that to put it in his choreography. It’s telling the stories of people close to him that hold deep importance to him.” The initial project was about training deaf people who had never danced before, teaching them contemporary dance movement, and allowing them to tell their stories. “[The first Together Higher project] was very successful; the deaf performers wanted to be more open and communicate more with society,” says Lan. “They hadn’t been trained before as dancers and they immediately fell in love with dance.” It was so successful that Long and Lan formed the dance company to allow for the continuation of more projects using this medium. “It was an advantage to the hearing-impaired people as they already use their body to communicate,” explains Lan. “So their dancing was very in tune and emotional.” Some of their more recent projects have been groundbreaking in including dancers who are HIVpositive, as well as opening up their stage to the stories and social injustices that need to be heard to the audiences of Vietnam. “We want to share something distinct about the people around us, not influenced by foreigners, but by the beautiful life that we were living,” says Lan.

Untied From All Boundaries

At Kinergie Dance Studio, the energy in the room is electric. As Filipe Oryarzun, the visiting instructor from Chile gives guidance, his students are immersed in their movements for over two hours and are able to develop new moves quickly. It is an intense atmosphere driven by a desire to learn.

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Do Hoang Thi Ngoc, the co-founder and artistic director for Kinergie Dance Studio has been dancing for 27 years — he first started when he was 11. He studied in Vietnam and France. “Contemporary dance has given me freedom,” says Ngoc. “A feeling of giving and receiving of each dancer before being on the stage, permission to do what the emotion says and untie all boundaries.” The release of this style of dance is visible in how Ngoc conducts his class and holds himself; you can see his comfort radiate from him. His happiness is contagious. As Ngoc starts his class, the students sit down in a circle and he addresses them gently, using his presence to guide attention, a kind soul with a distinct power of command. Once he has briefed the class, his students improvise to the music as they are watched over by Ngoc, who helps to direct the flow, while demonstrating how to feel and follow each other’s leads. The atmosphere is relaxed and focused, intensely enjoyed by all, and you can tell everyone involved is passionate about being there. “Contemporary dance makes dancers feel [like they are] being themselves; they can share their emotions with other people through the body’s movements, not by saying it out [loud],” says Ngoc. “To dance helps you change the way you think, know how to share and listen more.”

Wordless Release

Urban Dance Group (UDG) based out of Dancenter in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2 is a collective of 28 talented dancers focusing on urban contemporary movement, using street styles to create their own style of dance. These talented dancers have also brought their art form to television by performing successfully on So You Think You Can Dance Vietnam. John Huy Tran, 37, the artistic director, has been dancing for almost 30 years and his passion for this art form and helping other dancers is evident is his excitement within the studio. To watch John improvise with Hao, a contemporary dancer only seven years old, is a mesmerizing experience. Together they read each other’s signals and react to the music in easy harmony — at least they make it look easy to me. One of the tough realities of any form of dancing is that every dancer has sacrifices to make. Dinh Loc, one of the UDG dancers, says: “Dancing can be difficult because of the injuries you get. Everyone at some point has an injury; sprained joints, twisted and torn muscles, stress fractures, sore backs. You sacrifice your body for expression, you ache for your art.” “Dancing originates from oppression and a need for expression,” says troupe member Hong Nhung. “It is historically a way for people to physically escape, especially when the only freedom people have is dance. It can literally save their lives.” For Nhung, dancing is incorporated into her daily routine. She even keeps a journal to document her inspiration for future dance. It is a critical part of how she keeps herself happy. “I love contemporary improvisation dance because there is no set direction,” says Xuan Thao, another UDG dancer. “You just need to use trust and release yourself to the music and your dance partner. You can find powerful ways to communicate using nothing but your body.” There is one theme that runs true for all the dancers we spoke to. They believe that everyone should try dancing, contemporary or otherwise. Says Loc of UDG: “Whoever you are, you owe it to yourself to try everything once, because you never know what you might enjoy.”

An Urban Dance Group rehearsal at Dancenter. Photo by Francis Xavier

A dance class at Kynergie. Photo by Julie Vola

The Grass is Always Greener in The Other Parallel Universe A short story by Dara O Foghlu

was walking down the street the other day when I bumped into theoretical physicist Michio Kaku. He was spoiling for a drink. “I’ve got a thirst you could x-ray,” he said. “Come on, buy me a whisky.” Kaku is one part genius to three parts moocher. “Alright,” I said, “twist my arm.” He led me to an upmarket boozer in Hanoi’s West Lake area. This was the kind of bar where by the time you get yourself drunk you’ve spent the American defence budget. I didn’t mind so much. I had more money than I knew what to do with. Kaku was well aware of this. He buttonholed the barman and spoke right into his ear. “Listen here, my good man, there will come a time later this evening when you’re going to want to cut me off. I strongly advise against it. I am a mean and vicious drunk. Here’s what you’re going to do; you’re going to keep feeding me drink until I fall asleep. My friend here will pay for everything, and will see to it that I’m safely bundled into a taxi. Alright, now line ‘em up.” Kaku was polishing off his third drink while I was still nursing my first. “What’s eating your face tonight?” he said. “You’re drinking like a sparrow.” “It’s my birthday, Michio. I’m thirty-six years old, and what do I have to show for it? Nothing but a crop of unextinguishable regrets.” “Don’t quote Conrad. I hate that. Anyway, we’re all in the same boat. Look at me — they call me a ‘populariser’ of string theory, like I’m some kind of doofus. I’m sixtyeight, and I’m still waiting on the Nobel Prize.” “At least you won the Klopsteg Memorial Award. That’s something.” “The Klopsteg? Don’t talk to me about that. It’s the wooden spoon of science awards. My family wouldn’t even attend the conferral ceremony, but you won’t hear me whingeing about it.” “Sorry. You’re right. It’s just that I look back on my life and regret so much — the things I’ve done wrong... the things I haven’t done yet...” “Uh-huh, right.” He held up his empty glass for the barman to see. “Say, do you know why blind people don’t like skydiving?” “No.” “It scares the crap out of their dogs.” “That’s funny,” I said. Kaku clamped his hand over his forehead. “You are hard work, my friend. Okay, you want to know the secret to nullifying life’s disappointments? It’s easy. You just visualise that other version of yourself in a parallel universe — the one making all the right decisions. Before you know it, you’ll find yourself living the better version of your life.” “This works?” “Sure it does. Somewhere in the infinite cosmic rolodex there is a Michio Kaku that has won the Nobel

Prize. Hell, there’s probably one where you’ve won it too.” I knocked back my drink and ordered another round. “Attaboy,” said Michio Kaku. ********** The next day, my head felt like a bag of hammers. I tried to imagine the alternate version of myself where I had gotten an early night and was up before 7am to meditate, but I couldn’t concentrate because my headache kept getting in the way. I rolled out of bed, pulled on some pants, and went to the kitchen to make coffee. As is often the case when I’m hung over, my memory dredges up footage of my most embarrassing moments. On this particular morning, I was being haunted by the memory of the time I met famed man-ofletters Tobias Wolff. This was in Ireland, at a literary festival in Kilkenny. Tobias was reading his classic short story, Bullet in the Brain — the one where a bitter literary critic gets shot in the head by a bank robber. I had read this story perhaps a dozen times, listened to the New Yorker podcast analysis of it twice as often, and needed all my fingers and toes to count the times I had seen the short movie version. Tobias read with a rich texture to his voice, like his mouth was coated in warm chocolate. His sober white moustache and wholesome dress sense (red plaid shirt, brown corduroy trousers) gave him a solid and fatherly appearance. I listened in a state of rapture. Afterwards, Tobias sat at a desk in the back of the community hall and signed copies of his books for the crowd of two hundred or so. As I stood in line, I reminded myself how important it was to act cool. I desperately wanted to not come across as a star-struck fanboy. Above all, I told myself, I was not to call him “Toby” or attempt to impress him with an unsolicited exegisis of his oeuvre. I was not to use words like “exegesis” or “oeuvre” either. When I finally got to the head of the line, our flawed universe produced the following painful exchange... Me: “Hello, Mister Wolff.” TW: “Hi.” Immediately, the cosy friendliness of his greeting made mine seem coldly formal. Me: “Hey.” I ventured this time, book in hand, paralysed by my snowballing awkwardness. TW: “... you want me to sign your book?” Me: (torn now between the formal “Yes”, and the breezy “Yeah”, I came out with) “Yeash.” I handed over the book. TW: “Who’s it for?” Me: “Oh, just me, thanks.” TW: [confused] “And your name is...?” Me: “Oh yeah, my name! It’s Dara, yeah. I am Dara.”

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(Was I still? At this point my existential plummet was almost total. As if to prove to myself that I could remember my own name and spell it correctly, I added,) “O Foghlu. Dara O Foghlu. But Dara is fine. That’s D.A.R.A.” TW: [inscribes book, and hands it back] “Here you go.” Me: “That’s fanatic. (I had meant to say “fantastic”. However, I didn’t correct myself because I didn’t want to draw attention to my mistake. I hoped, instead, that he would figure me for someone with a speech impediment.) TW: “Okay. Well, goodbye then.” Me: “See you later.” (I realised that a simple “Bye” would have been more appropriate here, and that “See you later” was not only inaccurate, it sounded, in fact, like the veiled threat of a stalker.) TW: [worried] “...Eh. Next please.” ********** As I lay on the couch undone by my hangover, this episode looped in my head. Thankfully, my phone interrupted the cycle with a text message from Kaku (quoting Lord Jeffrey): “‘Damn the solar system... Bad light; planets too distant; pestered with comets; feeble contrivance. Could make a better one myself.’ Make a better one for yourself, Dara.” Kaku may be a demon for the sauce, but he plays this role with Zen contentment, which is admirable. If, as he supposes, there are an infinite number of universes unfolding an infinite number of possibilities, then somewhere there is a reality where my meeting with Tobias Wolff went something like this... Me: “Hi, Tobias. I enjoyed your reading.” [I hand him the book.] TW: “Thanks. [Poised with pen in hand] “Who shall I make this out to?” Me: “Dara.” TW: “Is that D.A.R.A.?” Me: “Yep.” TW: “You’re not Dara O Foghlu, by any chance?” Me: “Guilty.” TW: “OMG, I am such a huge fan of your oeuvre! The love poem you wrote to your girlfriend when you were fifteen was... [runs hand over shiny bald patch searching for the right word]... sublime. I actually cried. Also, during your Certificate in Aquaculture, the paper you wrote on the phosphate levels of washing up liquid was unputdownable.” Me: “You’re too kind, Tobias.” TW: “Please, my friends call me Toby. Only my mother calls me Tobias.” Me: “Okay. Toby.” TW: [Hands me book. The inscription reads: To Dara, the greatest writer of his generation. Your pal, Toby. Xoxo] “Say, how’s about you and I grab some luncheon? My treat. I’d love to discuss in detail where you draw your inspiration from and your writing process generally.” Me: “Sorry, Toby. I’ve got a date with Michelle Pfeiffer this afternoon.” TW: [heart-scalded] “Wow, you live a full and satisfying life, huh? Some other time maybe?” Me: “Perhaps, Toby. Perhaps.” It turns out that I did have a date with Michelle Pfeiffer, although I did not remember how that had been

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arranged. I suppose I must have imagined it. The date went so well that we spent the next few days together in her apartment, finishing each other’s sentences, lounging in bed, re-enacting scenes from some of her movies (Tequila Sunrise, mostly). On our third day together, Michelle Pfeiffer said she had a hankering for a vanilla milkshake. I told her to stay in bed and I’d go to the shop for ice-cream and milk. Truth be told, I was glad to get some space. Michelle Pfeiffer is very clingy. “Miss you already,” she said. “Okay. See you soon, Michelle Pfeiffer.” Of course, I never imagined that I could get sick of Michelle Pfeiffer, but then sometimes you surprise yourself. At the supermarket, Kim Basinger was in the confectionery aisle eating Chocolate Hob-Nobs out of a packet on the shelf. She panicked when she saw me, and tied to swallow an entire biscuit which then got lodged in her throat and set her off into a galloping coughing fit. Her hands moved up to her throat and her face turned purple. Then she made jerky movements like an epileptic robot before crumpling to the floor with her eyes ballooning up in their sockets. Within ten seconds I had scooped the mashed-up biscuit out of her mouth and throat. Then I flipped her on to her stomach and, lifting her up from behind, I performed the Heimlich manoeuvre. It took a couple of thrusts but she eventually coughed up a soggy clump of biscuit which landed an impressive ten feet away. Given our respective body positions it looked like Kim and I were up to no good, so I could see why when Michelle Pfeiffer rounded the corner and saw us there she was taken aback. “Ten minutes, you’re gone, and I find you here with that bitch.” “I can explain, Michelle Pfeiffer!” I said, but no amount of fast talking could quell that woman’s anger. She’s a firebrand and that’s why I love her, I guess. In the days that followed she wouldn’t return my calls, so I made myself a vanilla milkshake to remind myself of her. But I couldn’t enjoy it. I was racked with very real guilt for an imagined crime. A UPS man arrived at my door and delivered a dozen red roses. The note read: “Call me sometime, Toby.” And underneath his phone number there was a winking smiley face and three Xs. ********** This was not how I imagined my imaginary life. I called Michio Kaku for advice. When he answered the phone I heard bottles clinking and a sea shanty being sung in the background. Me: “Hey Michio, did I catch you at a bad time?” MK: [Shouting] “Ah no, I’m just having a few afternoonies with some pirates.” [There was some cheering from the pirates.] Me: “It’s eleven in the morning.” MK: “What are you, the talking clock? I didn’t ask for the time.” Me: “Listen, I need your advice. I’ve been imagining my better life like you said, but everything is getting out of hand. Michelle Pfeiffer won’t speak to me and I think Tobias Wolff wants to get into my pants. I have no control over my imagination.” Michio Kaku laughed. “How do you think I ended up with the Klopsteg Award?”

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Tattoo Art

Vu Ha Kim Vy speaks to three tattoo artists in Ho Chi Minh City to get an insight into the growth of this increasingly popular art form. Photos by Francis Xavier

Huynh Le Owner & Tattoo Artist

Studio: Huynh Le Tattoo, 248 Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan, HCMC

How long have you been working in this field? Two to three years, but this shop has been open six months. Before, I worked for another place more than a year and earned commission on my work.

It’s an art form now. For a long time, tattooing was just copying the samples from the internet and applying them to someone’s skin. Now, young artists want to create their own works that can match their clients’ style and personality.

How did it start? In my first year in university I saw some video clips on the internet. I right away had a strong passion for it, but at that time didn’t dare to start. When my husband’s income became more stable he encouraged me to pursue my dream, so I learnt how to do tattooing. I had to hide that from his family, though.

Have you ever said no to a client? Yes, many times. If we don’t feel the tattoo is nice or the body location appropriate, I will give them a consultation. But if they persist, I will say no.

How about now? They accept it now and sometimes let other people know that they have a daughter-inlaw who is a tattoo artist. They also show off my tattoo photos. How did you train to become a tattoo artist? Self-taught. I didn’t take any tattoo classes or training courses. Most of the time, I learnt from famous artists on YouTube. I also practiced on fake human skin that you can buy at tattoo shops. And then I worked for a couple of shops. Do you think it as an art form?

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Are there any colleges having tattoo art as a major? It’s not a college, but the Ho Chi Minh City Association of Fine Arts on Pasteur has some basic tattoo classes. How many female tattoo artists in Saigon? Well… quite a lot. If we just count those who can do big tattoos, there would be about seven female artists. Nearby provinces like Binh Duong and Bien Hoa also have some female artists. How does it feel, being a female tattoo artist? It’s disadvantageous. Clients don’t believe in our ability, skill and or technique. Male clients especially think most of our tattoo designs are too feminine.

Tran Doan Huy Nhat Tattoo Artist

Studio: Saigon Ink, 26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, HCMC

When did you have your first tattoo done? It was when I was 18 or 19. I did a graffiti painting for a tattoo shop in District 10 and the owner offered me a tattoo for free. It was a big one taking up my whole back. How long have you been working in this field? Six years in total. Three years for Saigon Ink. Before that I travelled to Singapore quite often for jobs. I started learning about tattoos while I was studying at the Ho Chi Minh City University of Fine Arts. What is the difference between Saigon and Singapore’s tattoo scene? Singaporean clients are happy to pay more for tattoos they find interesting and artistic. Vietnamese clients tend to follow tattoo samples or catalogues. They need to see the tattoos first before they get tattooed. Seeing a person’s tattoos, can you tell that they love tattoos or just follow the trend? Some people really love tattooing and see it as an art form. But some people just like to

show off — we call them ‘posers’. Well… to me, you have to have tattoos on your body first, close to your heart and when you run out of space, you move on somewhere like the arms, hands and neck. Some people just get their first tattoo on these locations. I think they are posers. Why has tattooing become so popular in Vietnam now? I think it’s because of the internet. And from the internet, some people get tattoos and other people have had chances to see more and more tattoos. And the more tattoos they have seen, the more they get used to it. Do you see it as a career? I never see this as a career. It’s just something I love to do. I don’t want to say this is an art form but prefer to say I love to draw. This allows me to draw quite a lot on a different material — human skin. The feeling is really nice. Plus, when you let money interfere in what you love to do, it will limit your creativity and imagination. And I am not going to let that happen to me.

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Matt Ayres Owner

Studio: Exile Ink Vietnam, 57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC Is your shop the first foreign-owned tattoo shop in Saigon? And why? Yes, it is. I have been running this shop for almost three years. I have always been interested in tattoos. My friend and I wanted to move away from the UK, so we decided to open a tattoo shop here. What makes you different from others? We run our shop with standards and techniques equal to those in the UK, Australia and America. What do you think about Vietnam’s tattoo scene now, compared to 15 years when you first arrived here? When I first came here, tattoos were illegal; there were no tattoo shops or maybe there were some backstreet studios. Now it has become more acceptable. I think it’s because of fashion. Everything’s new in Vietnam; it happens very quickly. Have you ever said no to any clients? Yes. When someone comes in my shop and asks for a tattoo on their face. I definitely refuse if they have no tattoos elsewhere on their bodies.

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Do you think it’s an art form? Yes, it’s an art form because to do it right it takes a lot of skill, practice and dedication. Not everyone can do it. What do you think about the Vietnamese tattoo scene in the future? It’s going to get better. It gets more acceptable because more people getting tattoos every day. What do you think about Vietnamese tattoo artists? Are they good enough? We have one Vietnamese artist in the shop. There are other good artists doing fantastic work and the standard is getting better. But like anything, there are good ones and bad ones. What is your plan for the business in the future? Will you open a second shop? That’s a very Vietnamese idea. They get together and open five or six shops in the same area. That concept’s strange to us. We prefer to do one main thing and what we offer makes us different, so we will stay with this shop. We aim to bring in at least one guest artist a year from overseas.

Tattoos Tell a Story Breaking down preconceived ideas, building community and developing art is all part of the growing tattoo scene in Hanoi. Words by Noey Neumark. Photos by Trung Del

ith a small but strong cohort of artists paving the way, getting inked in Vietnam is an increasingly popular option, but that doesn’t mean it’s not niche. I met with three tattoo artists of vastly different styles to discuss tattoo art in general, tattoo art in Vietnam, and what makes each of them an artist.

Humble Beginnings I first met Black Bear’s founder and prominent Vietnamese tattoo artist Pham Thanh Duy, who has been in the business for over half a decade. Next, on the Old Quarter side of the Long Bien Bridge, I chatted with Tats Studio’s owner, Tuan Vampire — he calls himself that in reference, or reverence, to the fang extensions he had put in his mouth years ago. Rounding out my research was a trip to Scarlett’s Inky Corner, where I visited the shop’s namesake and founder, Scarlett. Both Duy and Tuan had been artists before

they picked up tattooing. “I used to draw, I used to do graffiti, but when I found tattoos I knew it was the art for me,” Duy says. “With tattoos, you get only one chance.” Tuan, like Duy, felt compelled to make the shift to tattoo art, and is primarily self-taught. Tattoos weren’t big in Vietnam when he started nearly a decade ago, so he travelled to Thailand to check out the scene there. “I desired to learn as much as I could and to bring the new knowledge back to Vietnam,” he says. Scarlett, in contrast, had a less-expected career path. “Growing up, everyone encouraged me to study, and no-one encouraged me to do art or music,” she recalls. “I felt like I lost something, like there was this part of me that had never been explored.” Tattoo art requires much more than the ability to draw with a needle on someone’s skin (though, to be fair, that skill on its own is immensely difficult). “Success doesn’t depend on skill,” Tuan says. “The most

important quality of a tattoo artist is that you never stop learning, that you always push yourself to the new level, and stay open to learning from others’ experiences.” For Duy, the success of a tattoo artist lies in his or her ability to feel. “You can learn techniques,” he says, “but you can’t learn feeling.” His growth as an artist has emerged from the relationships he’s formed with his clients, and has strengthened through conversations, careful designs and a slow but intense artistic process. “You have to really know people, you have to really trust that you’re doing the right tattoo for the right person,” Duy explains. “That’s why I can’t earn much money.”

Getting Inked All the artists I spoke to have an intrinsic motivation. They’re not in this career for money or power. So what is it that inspires these tattoo artists? Duy says it’s the change he sees in his

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clients after they get inked “for work, for life, for love”. As he was learning the art of tattooing, he spent months studying traditional Vietnamese culture and symbolism. Some of his most treasured tattoos feature dragons, phoenixes, tigers and other cultural indicators of luck and prosperity. If someone wants to do well in business, they get a carp fish. If someone feels strong, they’ll get a tiger. Dragons are very common, too. Peonies signify power, and cherry blossoms together with carp mean endless luck and money. “A tattoo isn’t like a jacket that you can take off,” says Duy. “When you a have a tattoo you need it to symbolise something.” He explains how over time, the more people understand and revisit and explain the symbols behind their tattoos, they’ll come to take on more meanings. “A tattoo can save your life,” he adds. “It is your story.” Scarlett also feels her artistic passion “fuelled” by the stories and emotions of her customers. She recalls numerous moments of customers emailing her their stories, of customers sitting on her small parlour’s big comfy couch and chatting through their history, their motives and their fears. Scarlett is part of a worldwide project providing tattoos of semicolons for people who have wanted to commit suicide but have continued living. “You want to end the sentence, but you continue it,” she explains.

All three artists draw motivation from the thrill of the art itself. “I’m always challenging myself to create the greatest tattoo ever, to try more, to do more, but I’m never satisfied,” Tuan says. “I’ll forever be striving for the masterpiece of my life.”

High Stakes

With the high emotional stakes of tattoo art, not to mention the permanence of a tattoo, these artists express a heightened sense of responsibility, not only for the tattoo’s bearer, but for the tattoo community. The Vietnamese tattoo industry is still developing. Though tattoos are becoming more commonplace, they’re still considered taboo, something “for the bad guys,” Duy says. Duy takes great pride in showing me a work-in-progress on one of his customer’s backs; an expansive, intricate depiction of the American War. At its focal point is the painfully emotional portrait of an elderly woman weeping. “The portrait makes you feel,” he says. Both Tuan and Duy say that their favourite tattoos involve portraits or otherwise realistic images. “The way you make a tattoo reflects your feelings about the subject,” Duy explains, recalling an artist friend of his who could draw beautiful lips on tattooed portraits, but whose depiction of eyes lacked

emotion. “That person, in their real-life interactions, always focused on people’s lips, never their eyes, and that showed in their portraits.” At Vietnam’s national tattoo convention last year, one of Duy’s colour portraits won a top prize. He shows me the image it’s based on, and points out, bit by bit, the emotion within every curve, every rivet of the subject’s face. The next tattoo convention will take place in Ho Chi Minh City this month, where international tattoo artists will converge to share artwork, stories and inspiration.

Connections For now, the artists are making efforts to exchange knowledge and enhance connections. “I just want to make more excellent tattoo artists,” Tuan says, referring to his apprenticeship programme, INKademy. “Each person has his or her own process and method of improvement. Each apprentice has different styles, different skills, and I want to follow each of them to teach them personally.” Scarlett hopes to see Vietnam’s community become more open and communicative. “Some people are born an artist, but I learnt to be an artist, and I am evolving as one,” she explains. “You have to take yourself seriously before you can earn someone else’s respect.”

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Insider

INSIDER

Who says Hanoi is boring? Donna Bramhall certainly doesn’t. Just to make sure, here is her guide to all those things that are making Hanoi into an increasingly creative city. Photos by Teresa Welleans

The Creative’s

etween the nine-to-five mayhem of motorbikes and nights on the town, how often do you find time to explore your own creative aspirations and interests in Hanoi? And even if you wanted to, where would you go to find it? Sometimes it’s hard to keep up to date with all the activities the capital has to offer. Yes, there are the few steadfast, home-bred, artistic institutions we all know and love, but what about the others? Who are the emerging groups? Where are the secret studios? And how do you find a community crafters? Here’s a short guide to a substantial array of creative spaces and activities you can try in 2016 to inspire the artisan inside.

Creative Classes: Things to Learn Glass Painting with Xuong Lo Mo (facebook.com/xuonglomo) at Cafe Lomo, Sundays at 92B Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem, VND100,000 to VND300,000. Join part-time artist Hong Ly every weekend in her sparkling studio at Cafe Lomo.

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HANOI

You can paint a variety of pretty patterns on anything made out of glass, from champagne flutes to window panes. Prices include all materials. Life Drawing with Life Drawing Session (facebook.com/lifedrawingsessions), Thursdays 7.30pm to 9pm, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho. VND150,000 per class. An affordable and fun way to explore and expand your drawing skills in a friendly and relaxed environment. Sessions are not taught but self-directed with guidance, and come with a complimentary glass of wine to get the creative juices flowing. Writing with the Hanoi Writer’s Collective (E-mail marycroy@gmail.com), every other Sunday 6pm to 8pm, at Joma, 38 Lieu Giai, Dong Da. Are you the next Shakespeare in the making? All types of writing styles and levels are welcome at this informal get-together. Organiser Mary Croy is currently looking

Guide To Hanoi to expand the group into a supportive and inspiring literary community.

on exploring artistic expression not the equipment.

Travel Photography with Hanoi Photography Tour, Daily at 9am and 2pm. US$35 per person. Book at hanoiphotographytour@gmail. com or facebook.com/hanoiphotographytour

Circus Skills with Hanoi Circus Community, Every Sunday and Thursday, 6pm to 9pm, Vuon Hoa Quang Ba Park, Tay Ho. Facebook: Hanoi Circus Community

Want to learn how to capture the cultural landmarks of Hanoi? On this tour you can either create your own itinerary, or follow the expert guides to the city’s most interesting sites. All tours are led by accomplished amateur photographers, to help you get the best pictures possible.

Fancy yourself as the next member of the Cirque de Soleil? Then cartwheel down to the free circus community meet-ups, and skills swap with fellow hoopers, acro yogis, fire spinners, and jiu-jitsu beginners.

Personal Photography with Shots from the Guts (facebook.com/shotsfromtheguts), monthly workshops available starting from March 2016. Cost: VND1.5 million Photojournalist Nikolaj Svennevig’s weekend-long personal photography project is designed to push the boundaries of your visual story-telling techniques. No expensive cameras necessary as the emphasis is placed

Craft Classes with Timeclub (facebook.com/ timeclubhanoi), various times and dates. From Stitch’N’Bitch sessions, to doll making and bottle painting, the Timeclub organisers host regular crafty events for all ages at different venues across Hanoi.

Clockwise from top left: Art Vietnam Gallery, Lomo glass painting, Fuku, upstairs at Manzi

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Paper Making with Zo Project (facebook.com/ zoproject), various dates, So 5, ngo 50/59 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Promoting the preservation of traditional Vietnamese handmade paper. Zo holds different creative paper-based projects such as bookbinding, origami lessons and screen printing. Creative Collaborations at Work Room Four (facebook.com/workrmfour), 10am to 6pm, Packexim Building Tower 1, 24th Floor, No. 49, Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho. Exhibitions, installations, screen printing, film making. The eclectic collective at Work Room Four know no limitations when facilitating a creative environment for their collaborators to experiment in. Get an idea, then get in touch. Fashion and Textiles at London College for Design and Fashion (designstudies.vn/ en), 6.30pm to 9.30pm, 98, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Offers one to two short courses every term, running two evenings per week for six weeks. Dying to reveal your inner fashionista? This renowned fashion college holds bi-monthly workshops on textiles, styling and pattern cutting, all taught by English-speaking

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international lecturers, assisted by Vietnamese translators. Holistic Wellbeing at Zenith Yoga Vietnam (zenithyogavietnam.com). Various dates and times, 247B Au Co, Tay Ho and 62 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Trying to find your inner peace in heaving Hanoi can be a challenge at times. Zenith is a long-established oasis for holding a variety of spiritual and conscious living workshops in the city. Fun Fitness with Motion (facebook.com/ motionvietnam). See timetable. 42/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Shake your booty like BeyoncĂŠ at this new fun fitness centre promoting alternate exercise classes like ballet fit, pole dance and partner yoga. They also run alternative workshops on energy healing and meditation. Moving Image with Hanoi Doclab (hanoidoclab.org), various Dates. 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh. The major hub for emerging moviemakers and digital media artists in Hanoi, Doclab is a haven for film resources, and provides

frequent classes and talks with industry professionals on sound, lighting, writing and editing throughout the year. Contemporary and Experimental Dance with Kinergie Studio (facebook.com/kinergiestudio), 5.30pm to 11pm, Level 7, 101A Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da Launched in late 2015, this young and inspiring Vietnamese contemporary dance studio has both timetabled classes and periodic injections of alternative lessons. Classic, avant-garde, experimental and improvised dance techniques are delivered by French-speaking Vietnamese and the occasional visiting international lecturer. Improv Acting with The Rotten Grapes (facebook.com/groups/therottengrapes), Wednesdays 7.30pm to 9.30pm at Lassi cafe, 2 Tran Dai Nghia, Hai Ba Trung. Let your inhibitions go and enjoy living in the moment with this improvised acting and comedy community. Classes focus on the art of storytelling, character building and confidence boosting drama techniques. All levels welcome. Applied Arts and Fashion at Lucyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dream Applied Art Education Centre (facebook.

com/lucysdream.network), 2nd & 3rd floor, 20 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Classes start from US$5. Fashion brand Lucy’s Dream offers monthly education programs and drop-in classes for aspiring artists and designers out there. Teaching everything from sewing for beginners, photo manipulation, fashion illustration and realism painting. Art History with Sophie’s Art Tour (sophiesarttour.com), Monday to Saturday, 9am to 1pm, various venues, US$55 per person. Discover the history of Vietnam’s struggle for independence and identity told by the hands and hearts of its artists. Sophie’s Art Tour Hanoi explores both the international impressions left on Vietnam after many gruesome wars, and the evolving new generation of contemporary artists in Hanoi today.

Nights Open Mic at Hanoi Rock City, Wednesday, 9pm to late, 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Turn up, write your name on the board then strut your stuff on the stage when your turn comes. With a welcoming and regular crowd all you have to do is remember your lines.

A Night of Clutter, various venues and dates, 8pm onwards. Click on facebook.com/ anightofclutter for details. No musical training required, if you can hit and drum you are welcome to join in the fun. Making music with a mixture of improvised and professional instruments, ‘A Night of Clutter’ is a non-stop, inclusive, experimental, live music experience. Hanoi Slam, various dates and venues, VND100,000 (free for storytellers). Go to facebook.com/hanoislam for info Amateur and professional storytellers, poets, writers and musicians are invited to share their interpretations of a ‘Slams’ theme before a live audience. All proceeds from this regular charity event support the Humanitarian Services for the Children of Vietnam. Free Thoughts Arts Variety Show, Doors Cafe, 11 Hang Chinh, Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, 9pm to late. Admission Free. Local and travelling free spirits collide together in creative harmony at this multidisciplinary night of live painting, performance artists, poets, musicians and comedians.

Clockwise from top left: A Gingerworks party, Hanoi Social Club, Cinematique and Blossom Art House

Raw Collective Arts, various venues and dates. Check facebook.com/rawcollectiveart for details. New to the Hanoi arts scene, RAW promotes a new generation of local and foreign artists. Monthly events mix together different techniques and approaches towards art and music. Emphasis is placed on creating attractions for the audience to see live, such as street art, performance installations and projections. Gingerwork, various venues and dates. Click on facebook.com/wearegingerwork for their events. Arts, crafts and costume enthusiasts, come one, come all. Gingerwork is the most renowned and consistent promoter for holding visually dynamic parties in town. Fire shows, street theatre, projection arts and fancy dress, every event is passionately designed to transport you to a world of fantasy for the night.

Creative Cafes & Bars CAMA ATK, open nightly, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, cama-atk.com The home of the people behind CAMA, the team who were first to bring alternative

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live music to Hanoi, from Queer Disco to underground DJs and up-and-coming bands on the international circuit, this funky space is a hub of all things artistic and, naturally, creative cocktails as well. Fuku leather Handmade, open daily, 9am to 10pm, 107 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, facebook.com/fukuleather Slip down the slender alley to find partcafĂŠ, part-studio space Fuku. Watch leather artisan Manh Ha handcraft wallets, bags and other leather accessories before your eyes among the vintage American-inspired ambiance. Hanoi Social Club, open daily, 8am to 11pm, 6 Ngo Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem A must for any travel-loving, beatnik creative in Hanoi, the social club has been a long-time favourite for holding alternative workshops, weekly intimate music nights and artistic assemblies. Hanoi Cinematheque, 22 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Hidden down a tunnel and secluded in a courtyard, the Cinematheque is the best

place in the city to watch award-winning, worldwide and independent film. Show times can only be discovered by joining the e-mail list at hanoicinema22@gmail.com or by visiting the venue in person. Hanoi Rock City, open daily, 4pm to late, 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, facebook.com/hanoirockcity.welive The mecca for imaginative events, HRCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s variety of colourful environments begs to be the initiating ground for new music, art and fun. Catch everything here from flea markets to fashion shows. Tadioto, open daily, 7am to 11:30pm, 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, facebook.com/tadiototongdan One of the original bars for promoting alternative and contemporary arts in Hanoi, with recurring exhibitions, poetry and jazz performances, this intimate space attracts an artistic and intellectual crowd of locals and internationals. Click Space at Spacebar Cafe, every day 8am to 10pm, Villa 15, Lane 76 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Self-employed and sick of working from your kitchen table? Click Space co-working

café brings Hanoi’s legion of laptop independents closer together. Hosting a wide variety of consistent entrepreneurial and tech workshops for you to get your efficient, and ambitious geek on.

Creative Spaces Nha San Collective, Floor 15, 1 Luong Yen, Hanoi Creative City. facebook.com/ nhasancollective The birthplace of independent fine artists in Hanoi, this collective of conceptual practitioners curates exhibitions that address many controversial matters of contention in Vietnam today. Goethe Institut, Mon to Friday, 9am to 5pm, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, goethe.de This active international institution prides itself on curating programmes that promote cultural exchange. Each month they present an interesting itinerary of artist talks, concerts, workshops and exhibitions of creative and cultural significance. Manzi, daily 8am to 10pm, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, facebook.com/manzihanoi

art lover in Hanoi. This clean, classic and contemporary fine-arts café is the place to catch new exhibitions, film screenings and artist talks. Alternatively you can also splurge on their excellent collection of affordable prints, paintings and photos for sale at their art shop on the second floor. Art Vietnam Gallery, Mon to Sat, 10am to 5pm, upstairs at 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, artvietnamgallery.com

Clockwise from top left: An Open Mic night at HRC, Chula, Tadioto

This gallery changes its exhibition every month to suit the mood of contemporary art lover and owner Suzanne Lecht, whose cheery, playful and thought-provoking personality can be seen in the collections she curates. SixSpace (sixspace.vn) and Blossom Art House (blossomarthouse.com), 94B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0913 201389 While SixSpace is an artist-run art space, Blossom Art House holds art education courses for the general public. Has regular daily and monthly courses for kids of all ages and adults. Also puts on monthly workshops, screenings and concerts. All courses and events are in English and Vietnamese.

Chula, Open daily 8am to 7pm, 43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, facebook.com/chulafashion Spanish designers Laura Fontan and Diego Cortizas not only have the most visually stunning shop interiors imaginable, (with fabulously fun fashion collections to match) but also provide their spaces for collaboration with Hanoi’s artistic residents on an ad hoc basis. To see more of Donna’s work, check out her website — hauteculturefashion.com

A must-visit for any discerning modern

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Insider

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INSIDER

HANOI

Leathercraft CafĂŠs Cafes that sell a lot more than just coffee are spreading through Hanoi like wildfire. One caffeine-infused option? Make your own leather goods. Words by Noey Neumark. Photos by Julie Vola

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’m typing this article with a blister on my left thumb. My neck is sore, my elbows are stiff and my fingertips are tender. I spent the last few hours cutting, poking, prodding, tracing and pounding. I’ll return in a couple of days to sew, and then I’ll have a beautiful leather passport case. I stumbled out of DIY Box brimming with a mix of glee, fatigue and over-caffeination. While I worked tirelessly on my first-ever leathercraft project, I sipped thick Vietnamese coffee, chatted with newbie and veteran leather enthusiasts, and breathed in the sweet smell of thick animal hide (or was that glue?). I was converted. How could a simple café day have turned into an inspirational bout of self-discovery? This is the sort of transformation Nguyen Tuan Dung was dreaming of when he opened Hanoi’s first “leather café” two years ago. “I wanted to open a workshop where I work and where people can come join me,” Dung, the founder of DIY Box and the downstairs Geo Coffee (the two floors formerly comprised Mammon Café) says. “I want to guide people so we can work together and share knowledge with one another.”

Stitching it Together Hanoi’s leather café trend is on the upswing. Since Dung opened DIY Box two years ago, he’s witnessed his fellow leather enthusiasts and friends open similar shops across the capital. I first met Dung on an afternoon visit

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to Fuku Café & Leather, a rustic alternative to DIY Box’s long wooden tables and organized cubbies of fabrics and supplies. He was helping Ha, a good friend of his, with the credit card system at Fuku — a small gesture, perhaps, but one that indicates that the leather café community is close-knit rather than competitive. “I’m excited that my friends want to make leather,” Dung says. DIY Box, Fuku, and other leather newcomers are a testament to the creative community in Hanoi. Patrons enter DIY Box through Geo Coffee and can find their way to the workshop upstairs, where a crew of staff assist leather craftspeople in every step of the process. First, the artist must decide what it is he or she wishes to build. They might waver indecisively, as I did, between the array of beautiful template suggestions. Stacks of classy wallets and coin purses, funky glasses cases and chic notebook covers overflow from wicker baskets against the side wall, but workshop customers can also choose to make something from an image or, better yet, their imagination. Once the template is determined, DIY Box staff help patrons trim their selected fabric, and over several hours or days, guide blossoming leather experts through cutting, drawing, shaping, hammering and sewing. According to Trung, who steers me through my passport case work: “It’s very easy to do if you know how to draw it, then cut it, then make holes, then sew it together.”

I don’t know how to do any of these things, so I’m grateful for Trung’s patient kindness.

A Full On Experience DIY Box, as the name implies, aims to offer a creative environment in which leather enthusiasts old and new can explore the craft. The workshop is bright and spacious, and identical hammers, X-Acto knives and needles sit within clearly-labelled organisers. The place is staffed to capacity, ensuring that there are always a few people on hand to help if you cut crookedly or hammer imprecisely. In contrast, Fuku requires more endurance. A smaller, quieter shop where you have to try hard to order a coffee from the single leatherpaged menu that floats between the café’s cushioned chairs, the leathercraft process at Fuku is just that: a process. The leathering approach at Fuku demands patience and persistence. Your first visit to Fuku may result only in coffee. On your next visit, as your presence is more familiar, perhaps you can sit and admire the crafty dedication of the shop’s owner hard at work on his next project. When you return, why don’t you try your hand at hammering, and then sewing? I speak with one of the shop’s regulars, who has been honing his skills at Fuku for months. Despite a near-total language barrier, he collaborates beautifully with Ha, Fuku’s owner, as the two assist and advise each other on ongoing projects.It’s clear that it took him time to get to this point; his creative

pursuits at Fuku could evolve only with him being both meticulous and dedicated. Albeit in different styles, both Fuku and DIY Box (and others like them, including the new Egos Leather café and shop in Ho Chi Minh City) make the art of leathercraft accessible to those who seek it. “I’ve met many people working here,” Trung explains. “People come here who, like me, enjoy making things with their own hands.”

The Little Flaws Take Harvey Bruce Milligan, for instance, who had no experience working with leather before he moved to Vietnam a few months ago. He did, however, have a passion for using his hands to create, which he discovered while spending time in a collective bicycle workshop in England. “I’ve met a couple of other people through here who have been on pretty rigorous backpacking regimes,” Harvey says. “They arrived in Hanoi worn down and found that doing nothing but focusing on a piece of animal skin for a few days is actually quite appealing.” Harvey found DIY Box with a visiting friend of his, and has since worked consistently to create a slew of leathercraft products. On the day I meet him, he’s got his hands busy cutting and stitching a set of six leather coasters. “It’s pretty straightforward, but it does take time to get something really beautifully crafted,” he clarifies between hammer blows. “I don’t think anything I’ve

made is pitch-perfect... but people appreciate those little flaws.”

In Search of Oneness? In an increasingly anxiety-ridden world, it seems everywhere in the world should embrace Vietnam’s craft café trend. Not only have I, and those who came before me, realized the therapeutic power of tedious craftwork, but the sense of accomplishment afforded at the completion of a craft project (or a major milestone within it) is enough to brighten any mood. Is that why Dung opened DIY Box, in an attempt to save the anxious world from itself? Not quite, but it’s apparent that he’s happy to be spreading the leather gospel. “Before working with leather I was a software engineer,” he explains. “When I learned about what you can do with leather, I became very excited.” So excited, in fact, that he made it his life’s work to teach others about the challenges and rewards of leathercraft. Dung opened Mammon in 2013, but changed the name and branding to DIY Box when he started to envision making the company bigger and broader. Despite changes, though, he emphasises that he wants to “keep the craft accessible”. Maintaining and growing a shop of this kind can be difficult, Dung adds, because people must really commit to their projects to keep the café in business. “I like to see people coming to us, and I like them to see how

“How could a simple café day have turned into an inspirational bout of self-discovery?”

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“‘It’s pretty straightforward, but it does take time to get something really beautifully crafted. I don’t think anything I’ve made is pitch-perfect... but people appreciate those little flaws’”

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leather works and the work that goes into leather products,” he says. This movement is still in its nascent stages, but with Dung’s commitment and the enthusiasm of others, we’re sure to see continued growth. “Places like the US and Europe have a history of people doing leathercraft,” Dung explains, adding that he’s eager to keep pushing the modern spread of this centuries-old craft. From my limited personal experience, it wouldn’t surprise me if the leather bug spreads quickly. The work is relaxing, stimulating and fun, and according to everyone I meet, it’s the kind of thing that anyone can take up. So what will you make first?

Information DIY B OX

33 Ngo 135, Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Hanoi facebook.com/DIYBox.vn

F UKU

107 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi facebook.com/fukuleather

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Insider INSIDER

HANOI

Sketches of Hanoi

Sun down to sun up: Hanoiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nightlife through the end of a pen. Illustrations and text by Ben Rubin

anoi is a city of contrasts. By day, the modern hustle pushes it forward. Top-end modern hotels sprout from age-old lotus ponds, while elderly fisherman in conical hats seem too busy playing games on cellphones to notice.

But as the sun sets and the streets settle, another side emerges. Just beyond the bustling bia hois and scores of expat bars, empty alleyways reflect a time in the not so distant past when Hanoi was a different place. American illustrator Ben Rubin has taken

his sketchbook through the streets of the capital to explore the city by night. Through his pen he has captured streets filled with people racing towards the future while keeping one foot in the past. To see more of Benâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s visual stories of Hanoi, check out his website pocketsandbox.com

As the sun sets, people fish from sewer drainage pipes, hoping for carp

Families pile on motorbikes and brave the traffic for ice-cream

A xe om negotiates a fare with an English teacher fresh from class

Across from a lotus pond, couples sit close to a grill shrouded in clouds of BBQ smoke

With a full night of work ahead of him in the market below, a man rests in a hammock slung above the traffic

The Statue of Lenin watches over children rollerblading in their final minutes before the lights go out

As curfew descends upon the Old Quarter, shopkeepers sweep stray rubbish and taxicabs chase stray people

On a quiet corner, a young garbage collector takes a break to check Facebook

At the night flower market, pages from childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s textbooks are recycled into late night banh my sandwich wrappers

Construction workers sleep on pipes in the back of their truck before beginning another day on the worksite

In rain boots, young men stand on top of a mountain of meat to butcher chops for the local market

Despite the frenzy of crates, trucks and motorbikes piled high with produce, tiny old women push through the chaos every morning unscathed

With a heavy mist hanging above the lake, old men dip banh quay into their breakfast bowl of pho

Food and Drink EAT & DRINK

FEATURE

Edible Art Can you create a dish that is a work of art? That’s the challenge we gave to seven chefs in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Here’s what they produced. Words by Siân Kavanagh. Photos by Kyle Phanroy and Julie Vola

La Badiane, Hanoi The Chef: Ben Rascalou The Dish: Half-cooked red tuna marinated in wasabi and thyme, candied lime, arugula salad with ginger rougaille sauce and parmesan biscuit This delicate tuna dish, plated with an eye for detail and intricacy, creates a visual treat for the eyes with its beautiful colours. Upon the first bite, the flavours and textures combine to perfection with a beautiful balanced soft tuna and the crunch of the parmesan biscuit. Says the chef, Ben Rascalou, “The difficult part is to research the products that are available in Vietnam, find the most interesting flavour of each ingredients, and the way to fuse the flavours together.” Ben’s fusion works in the contrasting colours and the symmetry he plates up, but also in the food he has selected to use: tuna from Vietnam, wasabi from Japan, thyme from France, and rougaille from La Reunion. This is a dish that requires patience — the preparation of the tuna and candied lime zests starts 24 hours in advance. Yet the hard work has definitely paid off here. “This is a dish that you must first eat with your eyes,” says Ben. “Only then do you taste the combination of flavours and originality.”

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ood is not just about taste and nourishment, it’s about art as well. For some reason, a well-presented dish just tastes that much better. As they say, we eat with our eyes as much as we do with our mouths. So, in a testament to those chefs who spend years dedicating their lives to manipulating food, we are using our creative issue to showcase the talents of those artists who are regularly overlooked, hidden away in the kitchen. So feast your eyes on the edible creations of these seven Vietnam-based chefs, and don’t expect to finish this article without a rumbling tummy.

L’Olivier, Sofitel Plaza, Ho Chi Minh City The Chef: Sakal Phoeung The Dish: Marinated salmon, coriander, foie gras, scallops, crouton, wasabi sorbet, gold leaf, balsamic reduction, soy sauce Chef Sakal’s marinated salmon dish is a sight to behold, starting with the intricate stacking of the crouton, salmon, foie gras, scallops and wasabi down to the gold leaf and coriander neatly positioned with the precision of a perfectionist. This soft-spoken chef lets the food speak for itself, and that it does. Decorated and intricate, it is a piece of art. Says Sakal, “The combination of ingredients and textures

are the luxury of the dish; it has been constructed for you to eat with your eyes.” Beautiful to look at, the dish is also a delicacy of tender salmon which pairs naturally with the wasabi. “You must always respect the ingredients you are working with in order to find the perfect balance,” says Sakal, “especially when working with a fusion of ingredients.”

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Daluva, Hanoi The Chef: Shahar Lubin The Dish: Eggplant nom on marinated Vietnamese luffa, open spring rolls with tofu-parsley crème, poached shrimp, served with sweet carrot oil Shahar Lubin doesn’t shy away from creating complex dishes with rich flavour profiles, something he owes to his culinary history and his understanding of how to manipulate ingredients and flavours outside of their stereotypical and cultural roots. This playful plate intrigued the palate and tickled the senses — serving up the eggplant nom upon a luffa, a vegetable normally reserved for the shower and not the dining room, definitely added a layer of fun to this dish. The eggplant itself is easy

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to devour, but hard to put together as you need to devote a couple of hours to cut, brine and fry the vegetable — but the end result is delicious. “Something I find interesting about Vietnamese food is how close its flavours are to Middle Eastern ones,” says Shahar. “It might not occur at first, but look at the flavour profile — citrus, fresh herbs, nuts, fresh raw and lightly cooked veg.” The use of the soft parsley crème with the crunch of the twice-fried spring roll

wrappers creates a gorgeous sensation in the mouth, and is balanced by the intensity of the carrot oil. The choice to lightly cook the shrimp and leave its natural flavours to shine among the other ingredients means that you get to experience the gentle flavours on the plate complementing each other. “While there’s some complex work behind the scenes,” says Shahar, “I want the dish to come off as friendly and as food. Pretty, but not precious.”

The Deck, Ho Chi Minh City The Chef: Adrian Scott The Dish: Fillet of beef wrapped in nori seaweed, seared scallops, yuzu truffle soy foam, beetroot wasabi purée, parmesan and sesame crisp This 1980s American classic has been given a makeover by Adrian Scott aka Scotty at the Deck — surf and turf has rarely tasted so good. A wonderfully cooked fillet of beef wrapped in nori seaweed creates a unique base for this fantastic dish. The seaweed adds a stereotypically Asian flavour and works wonders at propelling it into the 21st century. The surf element is encapsulated in the use of scallops, seared gently to a delightful tenderness. “Each component benefits the overall

dish,” says Scotty. “The meal itself is a modern twist on an old-school classic revamped with added colour and depth of flavour.” The yuzu truffle foam works as a great addition to the combination of flavours, a wonderful companion to the wasabi beetroot purée. One bite including all elements was a joy for the taste buds, the salt and crunch of the Parmesan and sesame crisp balanced against the delicately textured beef and scallops with the light heat from the wasabi.

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French Grill, JW Marriott, Hanoi The Chef: Raphael Szurek The Dish: Chestnut financier combined with fresh goat cheese from Detrang farm, an apple sphere, pear coulis, chestnut mousse and caramel One bite into this dessert and you could easily forget that you’re in Hanoi. Immediately transporting you to France through the sensations in your mouth, this dessert uses handmade and locally sourced produce from Ba Vi, the dairy-producing area close to the capital. “We want to offer a unique experience to our customers, dishes with ‘stories’ that they will take away with them as great memories,” says its creator, Raphael Szurek. When you think of the separate components, you may not immediately picture them together as a dessert, but Raphael has managed to expertly combine them into a beautifully-sized portion, with the dancing flavours in your mouth, including a gelatin ball filled with liquefied apple and chestnut cream. Says Raphael: “Good ingredients speak for themselves and the combination of different tastes and textures create a great dish — all the components need to be enjoyed together.” The base of the goat’s cheese accompanies the nuttiness of the chestnuts and the acidities of the apple and pear, with the textural balance between the smooth and creamy cheese created by the crunch of the caramel.

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Racha Room, Ho Chi Minh City The Chef: Chris Donnelan The Dish: Textured berries, ice cream and yoghurt, with chili cherry jelly and coconut crisp Every good meal should end with an excellent dessert, and this dessert created by Racha Room’s Chris Donnelan is just a vision in cherry red, featuring four different textures of cherry and other berries. These include: a chilli-cherry jelly; cherry, orange and vanilla syrup; honey poached cherries and raspberries; as well as fresh berries adorning the plate. “This dish is inspired by my childhood

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in Melbourne,” says Chris. “We would always have ice cream, yoghurt and poached cherries. It was always delicious.” This classic combination of sweet fruits is upgraded with the use of liquid nitrogen and fresh fruit to create a frozen crunch. The candied orange and lime zests, along with the smooth sweetness of the ice cream together with the hint of spice from the cherry creates a delicious explosion in the mouth.

“You’re meant to have a little bit of everything in one bite with this dish, to get a real taste of it,” explains Chris. It was a challenge to share this dish with our photographer. It was so delicious I could have had it all to myself. A lovely plate to look at, constructed before us with a careful eye for detail, this dessert was also playful and elegant in its use of ingredients.

Don’s Tay Ho, Hanoi The Chef: Donald Berger The Dish: Maryland crab cake with sesame jicama tower, calamansi dressing, beet jus When I first heard we were having crab cake from well-known chef and restaurateur, Donald Berger, I knew I was in for a treat, but my mind had trouble associating crab cakes with edible art. How wrong I was. Donald’s pan-fried crab cake is a spectacle to behold. Packed with flavour and a delicate spice, the beet jus adorns the plate as though it was decorated by Jackson Pollock himself. “Crab cakes are a classic delightful dish,”

says Donald. “They are made even better by a tiny splash of Vietnamese fish sauce for what a friend of mine refers to as total ‘ngon-ness’!” Indeed, Donald certainly brought the ‘ngon-ness’ to this creation, with the beautifully constructed sesame jicama tower that provided a fresh crunch to complement the bites of crab. The cake was gently fried to create a crisp outside while maintain a succulent juiciness inside.

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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Der Imbiss A German restaurant that is garnering a following, we sent our undercover reporter to Der Imbiss to see if this recent entry to the Hanoi dining scene could walk the talk. Photos by Trung Del

had been on a film noir binge during the days leading up to my meal at Der Imbiss, so I was feeling screwy about concealing my ‘Mystery Diner’ identity from the restaurant owners. What if they rumbled me? Would they take me out back and feed me a brass-knuckle sandwich? I went there with two friends to help with my cover. “Act natural,” I told them. We sat down at a streetside countertop table and eyed up the painting of a red bear in a non la brandishing a knife and fork. He seemed to grin at me, like he knew something I didn’t. From my seat on the square stool I looked over my shoulder to see a hundred motorbikes, trucks and buses vying for space on Au Co. Meanwhile, the tiny restaurant was an oasis of calm — customers gulping beer and schnitzel. My German-speaking friend — who shall remain nameless — told me Der Imbiss means “the snack”. “Swell,” I said. “That’s useful intel.” and scribbled it in my notebook surreptitiously.

All in the Sauce The friendly-looking waiter came out from behind the counter and handed me a menu which boasted a selection of German food and imported or local beers. Its combo platters with a meat and a side dish are a steal at only VND65,000. I got the schnitzel

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and potato pancake, while my friends ordered the curry wurst and the barbecue sausage, both with fried German-style potatoes. They were fresh out of Munchen draught, so we settled for Hofbrau all around, both dark and light (VND100,000 each). The waiter poured our wheat beers with loving care, swirling the dregs around the bottle before the final pour, and finishing with a flourish. “That’s a doozy of a pint, fella,” I said. In spite of the cold wintry air and the chill of the beer, I had a cozy feeling chatting with my friends and the restaurant manager, Giang, who had come downstairs to shoot the breeze with us for a while (and suspected nothing). Our food arrived promptly, and the conversation ground to a halt so we could give our meals the attention they deserved. Hearty German fare is the perfect remedy for a cold winter’s evening. My schnitzel was the bee’s knees; crispy on the outside and meaty on the inside, with mayo, mustard and ketchup to sink it in. The potato pancake was better still, warm and hearty, and accompanied by a dollop of spiced apple sauce that made me want to run away with it to start a new life together. I also managed to steal some of my friend’s curry wurst while she wasn’t looking. The sausage was fine — sure, sure — but I was cock-a-hoop over the flavourful sauce, which

I wanted to put on everything I would eat from then onwards... salad, ice cream, corn flakes.

Small and Cozy Although the menu is not extensive, the open-air establishment makes the limited number of options exceedingly well. I didn’t even miss starters or desserts, and was happy to use the Hofbrau as a substitute for both. Towards the end of the meal, the owner also came down from the bar upstairs, which also serves Der Imbiss food and beer. I was worried he’d figure out why I was there (I should have worn a trench coat and sunglasses). The owner let it slip that the restaurant could use more publicity (My cover is blown! Abort the mission!), but that with such a small space he was satisfied with a modest but sustainable stream of customers. We sat there for a few hours, and the seats were never empty for long. We spotted a fellow we knew walking along the road, and hailed him, drawing him over for a couple of more drinks. Der Imbiss is just that kind of a place — friendly and accessible, a place you’re happy to stay to while away a few hours rubbing elbows with strangers. Der Imbiss is located at 53 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi

THE VERDICT

13 FOOD

SERVICE

12 DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink STREET SNACKER

HANOI

My Ga Tan Baby black chicken served up in a broth with noodles. Could this be the Vietnamese version of that miracle cure, chicken soup? Words by Noey Neumark. Photos by Julie Vola

hen the sun sets, the fluorescent lights at the corner of Hang Bo and Hang Can flicker on. Blue stools are hastily set up, not only at the intersection, but down and across Hang Bo, too. The broth has simmered and the chickens have bathed, and it’s time for action. Chop, whack, chop. The butcher’s knife smashes down onto thick hunks of young chicken, slicing them into sections of wings, ribs, heads, and everything in between. The bowls are laid out. A rectangular clump of my noodles is set into every bowl, with a sprinkling of bean sprouts on top. Next, an abundant helping of blackened chicken is piled over the sprouts and noodles, followed by a petite nest of bitter rau ngai cuu (mugwort). The shadow of a massive ladle appears over the rows of bowls, pausing

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over each to pour in a flood of my ga tan’s trademark black broth. The noodles float to the top, the chicken sinks to the bottom, and the brimming bowl of black broth makes its way to the little plastic table.

For All Maladies Ms. Pham Thi Lien and her family have been fixtures on this corner for 24 years, serving up this soul-warming comfort food. One of the most alluring aspects of my ga tan is its remedial value; my dining partners and I all agree that there’s no better medicine for a sore throat, migraine, or plain old bad day. It’s no surprise that my ga tan (and its close cousin, ga tan, which is a similar dish but with less broth and no my noodles to hearten up the meal) will make its eater feel better. Ms. Lien procures her cocktail

of traditional medicines and herbs from the nearby Lan Ong Street, and brews them into a heavily concentrated broth. Included are tao, which is good for your blood and liver; quy, prescribed for people with lung or kidney ailments; and thuc, a stomach aid. She then dilutes the intense medicinal blend with a milder broth that’s made from stewed pork bone and a careful selection of chickens. The result is a full-flavoured, aromatic, rich and healing bowl of love. From the bubbling vats of ga tan broth and the piles of my noodle packets, Ms. Lien and her family members serve around 500 bowls of my ga tan each night. It’s one of the few places in Hanoi where you’ll have to actually wait for a table, but I can’t think of a better use of your time and appetite. Ms. Lien sells her my ga tan every evening on the Hang Bo and Hang Can, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Food and Drink

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TOP EATS

HCMC

Atelier des Reves

A new restaurant in District 3 is offering an alternative dining location for anyone who wants to go French. Words by Owen Salisbury. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

rench cuisine is clearly a contender for the best, most revered cuisine in the world, so it’s always special to try a new French restaurant. Atelier des Reves, the Workshop of Dreams, is one such place. Only going for five months, online reviewers rave about its food and atmosphere. Getting out of Districts 1 and 2, home to 90 percent of the city’s top-end options, is a bonus. Enter this restaurant and you are immediately struck by the understated white décor; the shelves of cookbooks and knickknacks, and the widely separated tables. The place is popular, too; on my visit, almost every seat was filled, and the hum of spoken French filled the air with a comfortable, neighbourhood café vibe. Sit down, and no sooner do you get the menus than a little amuse-bouche is delivered. This is followed by a breadbasket and a waiter greeting you in French, a nice gesture. For my visit, I and my dining partner

decided to play it simple, choosing both of the menus de degustation and agreeing to split everything.

Classic French Choices Option one (VND375,000) includes crab and avocado salad, boneless chicken thigh stuffed with pork and foie gras over Parmesan gratin, and pears Belle Helene for dessert. Option two, the more expensive choice at VND695,000, comes with crab and avocado salad, pan-seared scallops, pate de foie gras with fig bread, beef tenderloin with roasted potatoes and a choice of dessert. Both consist of items available on the a la carte menu. Add to this an espresso (VND40,000), a San Pellegrino (VND50,000) and a Poire Williams pear brandy for after (VND130,000), and you are struck by the non-extortionate prices. French restaurants (except for Le Jardin), tend to be costly, at least by Vietnamese standards. Atelier Des

Reves is very reasonable. But beware. If you’re going for the degustation menu, remember, that’s exactly what it is. A tasting menu. So, portion sizes are small. But with five courses coming, this is still more than enough to fill you up. For the real deal, best to order a la carte. And if you order steak, remember that you’re in a French restaurant. Rare means bleu, medium rare means very rare. I forgot about this little issue and my steak ended up rare. Not that it made a difference. A good tasty cut, perfectly cooked. I had nothing to complain about. With so many French restaurants in District 1 and District 2, it’s nice to find a place that has settled for an alternative location. Le Bordeaux has been plying its trade in Binh Thanh for years. Now, Atelier des Reves offers a pleasant, alternative option in District 3. Atelier des Reves is located at 20/5 Ky Dong, Q3. They are open from 11am to 11pm

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Food and Drink STREET SNACKER

HCMC

Banh Ong La Dua While most streetfood snacks are struggling to beat off competition from imported fast food — think donuts and frozen yoghurt — the merry banh ong la dua is still beating out a fine trade. Words by Vi Pham. Pham. Photos by Owen Salisbury

aigon is the land of street food and as the chilly winds embrace the place, it is now the best time of the year to enjoy banh ong la dua (steamed pandan cake with coconut filling in a tube). I call it the merry snack of Saigon — just one bite into the hot and steamy freshly made banh ong la dua can warm your body up and boost your mood. How can one stay in a bad mood, when watching the fun cooking process of this snack? The filling is a surprise. Behind that plain white crunchy layer of rice paper is a steamy mixture of ground cassava, flour, pandanus juice and coconut sprinkles. The

ground cassava helps maintain the spongy texture, preventing the cake from being sloppy, while the pandanus juice adds in a fresh colour of green and a cosy flavour.

Ancient and Modern Banh ong la dua is one of just a few traditional snacks managing to stay competitive at a time when foreign fast food enters Vietnam. Vendors have adapted the local fare to stay responsive to the demands of snackers. While banh to ong or chuoi nuong are struggling with a decline in sales, banh ong la dua sellers deal with the snack crisis with constant adjustments to

equipment, presentation and location. Originating from the Khmer community in Soc Trang in the Mekong Delta, banh ong la dua started with the most basic steamer — the cake was steamed directly in the bamboo tubes. It’s now hard to find one in Saigon made with these bamboo steamers. Most sellers have replaced the bamboo tubes with custom metal versions for convenience, lower prices and availability. Even the wrapping has changed to suit modern-day Saigon. Banh ong la dua used to be wrapped in a layer of banana leaf rather than rice paper, but it would be hard to find a large amount of fresh banana leaves for daily

consumption in the city as they only last for one or two days and are difficult to store. “The banana leaf wrapping gives the cake a much better aroma,” a seller on Nguyen Trai insisted. “And the cakes are softer if they are steamed in bamboo tubes.” Banh ong la dua used to be carried around the city on shoulder poles but as demand has shifted, sellers now also use bicycles to approach customers more easily. They can travel further carrying their stove and steamer. However, as the snack gathers more and more attention, foodies find it inconvenient when the sellers are constantly moving

around. Because of this, some sellers are starting to settle down on one spot. Business has been promising.

The power of online Before having a little chat with the seller on Nguyen Trai, I prepared myself for headshaking and a long face when I asked her: “How is the business now compared to when you first started?” Her answer surprised me. “Oh, it is much better now,” she said. “Many foodies have photographed my cakes, uploading pictures to the internet. It’s got me lots of customers.”

Indeed, the internet has had a huge impact on the business. Online reviews and the ease of posting photos on social media has brought banh ong la dua a hopeful future. People’s love for the snack and their childhood stories are spread and discussed, as well as people sharing places to buy the cake. For a taste of the traditional, check out the banh ong la dua lady in front of 45A Nguyen Trai, Q5, HCMC and the crossroad of Phan Dinh Phung and Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan, HCMC from 2pm to 10pm. These are fixed locations and the sellers still use bamboo steamers. If you are lucky, you may also buy from mobile sellers on Nguyen Hue and Le Loi Streets in District 1

Travel

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TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

Boracay Once a travellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; destination, today Boracay is competing for tourist spoils with Koh Samui, Phuket, Langkawi and Bali. Nick Ross flew to the Philippines to see for himself

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friend of mine used to travel to Boracay in the 1980s. Like someone else I once met who in the late 1980s and early 1990s would spend six months a year on Koh Pha-Ngan in Thailand, he bemoans the changes — aka development — of Southeast Asia’s tropical islands. No longer are they the deserted, whitesand-beach paradises of 20 or 30 years ago. In places like Boracay, generators have been replaced by electricity supplied by underthe-sea cables from the nearby town, and thatched bungalows on the beach have disappeared in favour of resorts. Now, all of these islands are commercialised. I never had the chance to visit Boracay in the 1980s when it was a travellers’ Mecca, an end-of-the-journey reason to brave long uncomfortable bus and boat journeys and budget airline trips with the likes of Aeroflot or Biman Bangladesh. So, I don’t know what I missed. My reference points are instead Phu Quoc in Vietnam and Koh Chang and Koh Samet in Thailand, islands that got picked up by the developers much later. What I do know is that I like what Boracay has become (I’m not the kind of nostalgic person who yearns for a world

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that no longer exists). As developed island holiday destinations in Southeast Asia go, it’s one of the best. Even Travel & Leisure has bequeathed it with accolades, voting it the best island in the world in 2012. It lacks top-end accommodation. Except for a few properties including the Shangri-La and The Astoria, Boracay doesn’t really go five-star. But it has everything else; water sports activities, go-karting, golf, nightlife, shopping and food options, lots of them. Nothing’s overpriced. The beer is cheap, too, sitting in the VND30,000 to VND40,000 a bottle range. It has also done something that few other island locations have managed to do, the beaches are spotlessly clean and the sea crystal clear.

Spotless But a step back. I went to The Philippines on a media jaunt sponsored by Cebu Pacific, the country’s largest airline, and the Philippines Ministry of Tourism, which means that my experience was tailored and that in the ensuing writeup, I would have to like the place. For me this was a risk. In my mind there was always the question, what if…?

It also meant an early-hours-in-themorning flight from Ho Chi Minh City to Manila, and then a few-hour stopover at the Belmont Hotel by the airport, before moving onto the domestic terminal for our flight to Caticlan. Fortunately I’ve travelled enough in this region to separate the wheat from the chaff, and from the moment that I stepped on the boat in Caticlan Port that transported us from the mainland to Boracay, I knew that I was going to like the place. Crystal clear seas, perfectly white sand, and old-style fishing boats converted into people carriers have that kind of effect on me. The same concern for the environment was apparent after we checked into our hotel, Le Soleil de Boracay, and headed out onto the beach. Not a piece of litter in sight. And once again, that sea, the type of azure that people travel halfway across the world for.

Three Days of Paradise The main beach area is on the east of the island and is divided into three stations — Station 1, Station 2, Station 3 — each having its own set of water-sport activities. We were

staying in Station 2, right by the D-Mall, which meant we had no beach road jammed up with traffic typical of places such as Kuta in Bali or Patong in Phuket. Instead, between the resort and the sand was a path. The beach here is palm-fringed, smoking is not allowed on the sand, and on the non-beach side of the path were the hotels, restaurants, bars, cafés and souvenir shops. Yes, the place is commercial, and yes, you won’t get the peace and quiet of a deserted beach or a self-contained resort, but in return you’ve got the non-stop activity of the town. So, for restaurants, nightlife, souvenir shopping, hair plaiting, massage and daytime activities, this is where you should be. Our itinerary included an ATV ride to

the highest point on the island, helmet diving, parasailing, an island-hopping tour, ziplining, snorkelling, a picnic seafood lunch, a tour around the small local zoo, dinner on the beach, hotel inspections and a visit to the golf course. It was non-stop. But it was fun. Our hosts were phenomenal. I did feel at times that more independence would have been nice — when I travel, I like to wander and see what I can discover. And on the last afternoon on Boracay, I managed to get a few hours to myself to look around and explore. I took a tricycle taxi, found the souvenir shop area, checked out the beach around Station 3 and perched myself in a beachside bar to do some people watching. A mixture of people has been attracted to Boracay. From Chinese and Korean families

through to Russians, Americans, Europeans, Australians and a large number of Filipinos. What amazed me was the laid-back sophistication of it all. The Philippines, despite being in Asia, has a lot of western influence — note the abundance of fast food restaurants. Boracay is no different. Yet, despite the constant buzz of people, there was something tranquil about the place. Maybe it’s the effect of being by the sea, or maybe it’s the way of The Philippines. There was never an air of aggression here — something which you can often experience in the beach areas of Thailand or Vietnam. Instead, the ambience was easy-going and chilled. And that, together with the sand and the sea, keeps this former backpacker island feeling a little special.

“The same concern for the environment was apparent… when we headed out onto the beach. Not a piece of litter in sight. And once again, that sea, the type of azure that people travel halfway across the world for”

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“[Boracay] lacks top-end accommodation. Except for a few properties including the Shangri-La and The Astoria, it doesn’t really go five-star. But it has everything else; water sports activities, go-karting, golf, nightlife, shopping and food options, lots of them. Nothing’s overpriced”

Places to Stay We visited a number of resorts in the Station 2 area, these included L E S OLEIL DE B ORACAY (lesoleil.com.ph ), where we stayed, T HE D ISTRICT B ORACAY (thedistrictboracay.com), T HE B ORACAY M ANDARIN (boracaymandarin.com) and B ORACAY R EGENCY , (boracayregency. com) a resort with a buffet restaurant famed for its dancing chefs (I saw them, they really do come out and dance). Mid-range accommodation costs around US$60 to US$100 a night, with the topend going for US$200 to US$400. There are a number of good four-star options on the island. In Manila, we stayed at T HE B ELMONT (thebelmonthotels.com) and on the last day had dinner at the five-star (you should see this place) S OLAIRE R ESORT AND C ASINO (solaireresort.com ). With 800 rooms, this property is not only enormous, but it’s a slice of Las Vegas in The Philippines.

A CTIVITIES

Water sports in Boracay are amazingly well-priced compared to elsewhere in the region, and in my experience, professionally run — there is an obsession with safety. Parasailing, for example, costs around 2,000 pesos (US$40 / VND900,000) per person for 20 minutes of airborne buzz factor. Worth every penny.

G ETTING T HERE We flew with C EBU P ACIFIC

(cebupacificair.com). The airline operates flights to Manila and then Boracay from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The round trip, including all taxes starts at around US$300 per person. The airline has routes to almost every island and airport in the Philippines, so it’s a good option if you want to get around the country’s 7,000 islands.

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Travel TRAVEL

PHU QUOC

The Island of Change The next Koh Samui, Langkawi or Boracay? Difficult to tell. One thingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for sure. Phu Quoc is changing beyond all recognition. Words and photos by Nick Ross

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Phu Quoc as seen from the ferris wheel above Vinpearland

ust down from Vinpearl Land is Grand World. It’s just extravagant signage at the moment and an enormous plot of semi-cleared land, but from the look of it this latest development is set to be competition to the Disneyesque theme park set up by the Vin Group next door. That the Vin Group has taken over large swathes of land on Phu Quoc, Vietnam’s one piece of tropical paradise in the Gulf of Thailand, says much about how this island is being viewed in the circles of power. The largest ‘entertainment complex’ developer in the country and a key business component of that circle, their present expansion of operations goes hand in hand with the latest developments. One such hub of development is Phu Quoc. Add to this visa-free entry courtesy of the international airport, and an exponential growth of tourists — both domestic and international — and this once sleepy backwater famed for its seafood, fish sauce, pepper and ridgeback hunting dogs is turning into a getaway matching the delights of Koh Samui, Langkawi and even Boracay. At least, that’s the idea. No surprise then that the ongoing theme of this island is change. One resort built a decade ago — a small bungalow-on-the-beach type of place costing a pittance to set up — just changed hands for over a million dollars. Local landowners (aka fishermen) are selling up their land left, right and something close to centre. Even the navy has shed its hands of a beach area, Bai Khem, in favour of a soon-to-be-completed five-star resort. And of course, with so much money changing hands — almost every plot of seafront land has been bought up — development is everywhere. So much so that it seems to be the one theme that everyone based on the island is talking about. It’s inescapable. “I’ve only been here a year and a half, but I’ve already seen so much change,” says Virginia, the restaurant manager at rustic resort Mango Bay. Adds the property’s general manager, Ronan Le Bihan: “Where we are used to be described as being in

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Clockwise from top left: One of the bungalows at Mango Bay; sunrise through the trees at Mango Bay; a Phu Quoc dog shows off its climbing skills; the shanty town on the

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river in the main town, Duong Dong; Sao Beach in the southwest of the island; kayaking boats for hire at Mango Bay; sunset on the beach outside Rory's Bar

Left: Construction workers building the new road to Cua Can. Right: The site on Bai Khem that will eventually become the JW Marriott

“Development is everywhere. So much so that it seems to be the one theme that everyone based on the island is talking about. It’s inescapable” the north. Now with the new road, we’re a suburb of Duong Dong, the main town.” Duong, one half of the AustralianVietnamese partnership behind Buddy’s Cafe, puts it in a more metaphorical way. With the push to develop Phu Quoc, stories abound of entrepreneurs from Hanoi arriving with backpacks full of cash, searching out land and opportunities. For Duong, a Phu Quoc local, the gold rush “is like ants coming to a jar of sugar.” As she says that she shakes her head. Raised on the island she’s not sure what Phu Quoc will become, but she certainly knows it will never be the same. Adds her husband, Rohan Barker: “They want to make this a golf destination. And for the safari that Vinpearl have built, they’re flying in animals from Australia.” A recent Tuoi Tre report suggests more than just Australia — India and Africa, too. How these ‘safari’ animals will survive in this alien environment, despite it supposedly remaining almost untouched, is another matter. From what Rohan has heard, it will go further. Due to Phu Quoc being a duty-free island, Vinpearl is going to build a casino. And now that flights from Singapore and Siem Reap have all been cancelled, “they’re targeting the Chinese market, and are going to run chartered flights from China.”

Memories I’ve been to Phu Quoc five times now, the first in March 2000. A Chinese-Vietnamese guy took me under his wing and introduced me to his friends. On 8am on the first morning I ended up in a corrugated iron roof shack in Duong Dong eating raw anchovies rolled up with fresh herbs, banana buds and pickled vegetables in rice paper. Served up

with large doses of rice wine, I later learnt the dish was called goi ca trich, a Phu Quoc speciality. By 10am everyone was asleep, me on the hammock, everyone else on mats. That evening after a dose of on-stage karaoke in front of a 500-strong audience we went for dinner at a fisherman’s hut on the beach. Barbecued squid freshly caught that morning served up with Bia Sai Gon. Using my Vietnamese phrase book I asked where the toilet was and everyone laughed. They eventually pointed to the sand dunes beyond the hut. I also remember the untouched whitesand Bai Khem as it was in 2000 — still the best beach I’ve ever seen in Vietnam. With not a café or restaurant in sight, the water was so clear that you could even see the jellyfish three, four or five metres before you made contact. I remember going snorkeling on fishing boats, with an on-board fish barbecue for lunch. And I remember riding on motorbikes without helmets along redearth roads with bumps and ridges and not a inkling of tarmac in sight. That Phu Quoc of untouched beaches and time-left-behind culture is long gone. Although the on-stage karaoke is still there, as I pay my VND500,000 to get into Vinpearl’s answer to Disneyland, I find the memories flooding back. The place is incongruous, with its Disney-like castle, train rides, aquarium, rollercoaster and water park. This isn’t the Phu Quoc I once knew. Yet it would be a mistake to see modernday Phu Quoc simply in terms of the yet-to-be-completely widened beach road running south of Duong Dong (a mess) or the Disney-style castle and plastic excuse for a theme park created by Vinpearl (the water park and aquarium are excellent, by the

Places to Stay There are well over a hundred resorts and holiday complexes on the island, but for a bit of luxury, the place to go is S ALINDA (salindaresort. com). For a non-affiliated five-star — this place is self-owned, selfmanaged — what they’ve achieved is exceptional. You’re going to pay for it, though. High-season rack rates start at around US$400 a night. Other top-end options include L A V ERANDA (laverandaresorts.com), the M ERCURE P HU Q UOC (mercure.com) and C HENSEA (chensea-resort.com). To be part of the action, two areas offer up both bars and resorts. The L ONG B EACH area just south of the main town, Duong Dong — check out the sunset at R ORY ’ S B AR or any of the resorts along the beach including M AI S PA (maispa.com. vn). O NG L ANG B EACH , 15 minutes to the north, also has a growing collection of resorts including BO (boresort-phuquoc.com), M ANGO B AY (mangobayphuquoc. com) and F REEDOMLAND (freedomlandphuquoc.com). Mango Bay’s seafront restaurant and bar are popular eating and drinking spots for both residents and non-residents of the resort. And in town, besides the N IGHT M ARKET , the place to go for coffee, Wifi, ice-cream and beer is B UDDY C AFÉ (6 Bach Dang, Duong Dong). And if you what many believe to be the best restaurant in Phu Quoc, then head to I TACA (itacalounge.com).

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Clockwise from top left: The aquarium at Vinpearland; one of the rides at Vinpearland; Rory's Bar; the swimming

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pool at Salinda Phu Quoc; inside the grounds of Salinda Phu Quoc; a restaurant on Sao Beach; at the night market

Australian expat Mick befriends a parrott that has been left to wander in Duong Dong

“This is an island in transition from one style to a completely different one and unsurprisingly, nothing is quite as it should be”

way.) This is purely an island in transition from one style to a completely different one and unsurprisingly, nothing is quite as it should be.

The Parrot There are well over 100 expats living permanently on the island, and thanks to Rohan Barker, on my first night I end up drinking with some of them. We’re in Buddy’s, the beer is flowing when we get distracted by a commotion across the road. Three of us run out of the café, drunk, to encounter a parrot, a stunningly beautiful parrot, standing all on its own on the pavement opposite. I’m in journalism mode and as I lie belly down on the pavement with my camera to shoot this stunning creature, it reacts, comes towards my camera and bites at my lens. I don’t know why I’m taking photos of this bird, and none of us know why we’re there. What we do know is that Mick has picked the creature up, put it on his shoulder and that a crowd has appeared.

“It’s domesticated,” says Rohan. He’s confused, too. “How did it get here? Who does it belong to?” Then with questions being asked, the owner appears. It becomes clear he’s deliberately let the bird go to see what will happen. He’s showing it off — this is quite a bird. This is one of those odd things that seems to happen in Vietnam, and every time I’ve been to Phu Quoc, I’ve had such experiences. I remember the Viet Kieu wedding we got an impromptu invitation to in early 2000. We didn’t take up the offer — it felt like we would be intruders — but the Canadian guy who did found himself on a wedding celebration boat sailing dangerously close to the Cambodian border. I remember the boat trip from Phu Quoc to Ba Hon near Ha Tien on the mainland. Eight hours of larger-than-life waves and seasickness on a tiny fishing boat. I remember bumping into friends at SaigonPhu Quoc resort, the first hotel of any substance on the island, and how we partied

into the early hours. And I remember not once but twice the intimacy of staying in Mango Bay, the rustic wooden huts, the amazing seafood, the sunrises and sunsets. This island the size of Singapore may be changing at breakneck speed. But something about it retains that magic of the past. No wonder people are flocking there like, as Duong says, “ants coming to a jar of sugar”.

Things to Do For the ultimate guide to Phu Quoc check out the P HU Q UOC V ISITORS G UIDE (visitphuquoc.info). It comes hand in hand with a map, which you can pick up all around the island. But for a quick summary, there’s diving, watersports, the pepper farms, the fish sauce factories, the Phu Quoc Dog breeding centres, the many beaches, the night market in the main town and of course all the sites owned by the Vin Group. Oh, and the seafood on Phu Quoc is phenomenal.

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Travel

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888

anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444

dalatpalace.vn

This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999

dalatgreencityhotel.com

Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555

contact@hoteldelopera.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365

dalattrainvilla.com

Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555

hanoi-daewoohotel.com

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Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396

hanoi.hgi.com

With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500

hanoi.hilton.com

Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888

hanoi.intercontinental.com

This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

jwmarriotthanoi.com

From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688

maydeville.com

The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343

meliahanoi.com

Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800

moevenpick-hanoi.com

With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688

pullman-hanoi.com

With deluxe rooms and

suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000

sheraton.com/hanoi

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919

sofitel.com

The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

M M M HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

sixonsixteen.com

Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969

goldensilkhotel.com

Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable

minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048

josephshotel.com

Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999

hanovahotel.com

A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

M M M HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372

hanoibackpackershostel.com

Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

M M M HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777

equatorial.com/hcm

This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688

lemeridien.com/saigon

Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creative-minded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333

legendsaigon.com

Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine. NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888

saigon.newworldhotels.com

Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town. PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686

pullmanhotels.com

Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

riverside-apartments.com

Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1117

renaissance-saigon.com

This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheraton.com/saigon

Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688

windsorplazahotel.com

The full ensemble with its

own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201

continentalhotel.com.vn

This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture. NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso. NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866

novotel-saigon-centre.com

Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090

villasong.com

Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926

lanlanhotel.com.vn

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966

alcovehotel.com.vn

M M M HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992

ducvuonghotel.com

Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699

dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915

honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)

3827 4648

sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An

anbangbeachretreat.com

CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231

hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800

danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888

furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234

danang.regency.hyatt.com

The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888

pullman-danang.com

Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777

mercure-danang.com

Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix.

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888

starcitysaigon.vn

The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

kimdohotel.com

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 131

THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 10: THE NEXT TWO SISTERS

Matt journeys on through North East India’s Nagaland and into Arunachal Pradesh on the back of Nemo, his motorbike

DAY 166 Chain Trouble Picked up a few backup tools for the bike in Imphal. Lent them to a friendly tuktuk driver to help with his maintenance. Naturally he forgot to give the tools back. And so here I am, stranded 10km out of Kohima, with a broken chain and again not even a basic wrench to fix what would otherwise take me two minutes. Got a lift to town — with Nemo on the back of a truck. Got new wrenches. I’m hiding those from everyone now.

Africa than Asia. Oh — he wants a photo. Oh — now he wants my jacket… And no matter how hard I try to stay unjaded — it’s rip-offs galore on every corner and crisp western dollar signs twinkle in the locals’ eyes, blurring their vision. I’m leaving with mixed feelings…

wide, smooth tarmac! And I push Nemo to 70kph, just for a moment, just in case we may not get another chance, another road. And Buddhist prayer flags decorate my way. Ah, I’ve missed those. Surely I’m nearing Nepal and the Himalayas.

DAY 177

Daporijo Perfect camping stop by a river, surrounded by mountains. Two men come by: You sleep here? It’s dangerous! Bad people come here! They drink beer! Well, as long as they bring one to share, we’re all good! They leave. There’s lots of dry wood around and I get a brilliant idea — let’s start a fire. I have two matches left. Let’s see if it’s meant to be. Half an hour of creative blowing and puffing, and right as I’m about to give up — a flame! And with the starry sky above my head, I just couldn’t feel happier. Two other men show up: You sleep here? It’s dangerous! Bad people come here! Are you bad people? No, no… You want beer? They also brought chicken to roast. How awesome. For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at etheriumsky.com/prodblog

Broke Changed my very last US$100. Still a looooong way to go. Kicking into Travel: Expert Mode.

DAY 170

DAY 178

Mon Roadside sign: “You are now in the reign of the Naga Konyaks.” Is it a welcome or a warning? Culturally, Nagaland seems by far the most distinct of this region. There is a legacy here of headhunting which by some accounts only ended in the 1980s. Apparently human skulls are still displayed by local tribesmen, although buffalo and deer bones (and an occasional rotting tiger corpse, which I would’ve preferred not seeing) are much more common. The road is a flashback to the “adventure highways” of Manipur and then there’s that guy! — he comes out at me with a spear, face and body tattoos, a dorky haircut and an outfit more reminiscent of

The Craptastic Roads of India Roads in India are like the occasional girls and boys in my life — there to tease, never to stay. Off-road challenge for today; like a hunter, following old car tyre tracks through a vast swamp where every inch looks exactly the same! Then I see three ridiculously crappy ferries that don’t have set docking spots and you just hope to spot them above the tall grasses. And it’s bumpy but fun — until I fall off a bridge. Dammit! And laughing, because it’s all just too ridiculous to be a route between two major cities. The Crapfest of a Road Award goes to… India, of course. Yay, take it all! — gold, bronze, silver — it’s all you, India. Last 10km of the day and suddenly

DAY 185

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 133

Travel

THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000

ghmhotels.com

Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800

angsana.com/en/lang_co

Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors. BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888

banyantree.com/en/lang_co

Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475

la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222

sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination

2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat. SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000

sheraton.com/nhatrang

M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727

ninhchubay.com

On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666

BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322

junglebeachvietnam.com

mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900

novotel-nhatrang.com

This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222

sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination

blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111

cocobeach.net

With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995. JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177

joescafemuine.com

A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix. MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440

miamuine.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000

victoriahotels.asia

Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844

easytigerphongnha@gmail. com

A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night. HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182

phong-nha-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367

5135

phong-nha-cave.com

The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

M M M PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998

beachclubvietnam.com

A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season. MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207

mangobayphuquoc.com

An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar. SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02

salindaresort.com

Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with contemporary design. The

PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

hoangphuonghotel.com

M M M

134 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com

property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.

M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946

catcathotel.com

The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

topasecolodge.com

With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553

binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939

condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525

hotramresort.com

This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-

galows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631

sanctuary.com.vn

The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135

rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222

sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888

thegrandhotramstrip.com

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702

buffalotours.com.vn

A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam. BTA customizes leisure and

corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150

exotravel.com

A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays. HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828

handspan.com

Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations. HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844

hgtravel.com

Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com). INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308

intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses

on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture. TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977

kien@travelsense.asia

A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170

buffalotours.com

This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam. EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19

exotravel.com

A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744

flightravelco.com

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754

terraverdetravel.com

If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585

vietnamvespaadventure. com

Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659

backofthebiketours.com

Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. BEENINASIA.COM

beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436

tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 135

Hanoi

Day Tripper: Hanoi / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats / Student Eye / Medical Buff / Book Buff Photo by Trung Del

136 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Hanoi Essentials

ALTERNATIVE HEALTH

BUSINESS GROUPS

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP

A-ROAMING BODYWORKER

karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com

Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available. HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE

issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth

A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Only available online, but a great information source.

M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP

23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896 TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151 WEEKEND BOOKWORM CHILDREN’S & VIETNAM-THEMED BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 With its main store located in Chau Long, sharing space with Hanoi Cooking Centre, the second edition in Tay Ho specialises in children’s and Vietnamese themed books, as well as selling bao cap (Subsidy Era) furniture and a range of souvenirs and gifts. Open weekends only. XUNHASABA ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068

M M M

AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790

amchamhanoi.com

AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994

auschamvn.org

BBGV Floor 1, Hanoi Central Office Bldg 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 8681

bbgv.org

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115

thehanoiclub.com

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

HANOI OIS

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

NETBALL CLUB

hanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164

vphanoi-lespace.com

M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

SKATESHOP

booskateshop.com

eurochamvn.org

CONTRABAND

ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh

sbav-hanoi.org

M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.

M M M CLUBS & SOCIETIES

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost. L’ATELIER 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758

ateliervietnam.com

GOETHE INSTITUT

METISEKO

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251

metiseko.com

goethe.de/hanoi

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

M M M COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088

hanoicookingcentre.com

Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours. HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE

147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045

hiddenhanoi.com.vn

A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

EVENT SPACE

THREE TREES

AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

AMERICAN CLUB

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX

JEWELLERY

ccifv.org

icham.org

eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fairtrade, Textile Exchange.

71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an

JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn

BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS

8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831

TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

Hanoi Essentials

Mekong-quilts.org

Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

M M M GALLERIES

METISEKO ECO-CHIC

71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645

metiseko.com

M M M CYCLING DON’S TAY HO BICYCLE RENTALS

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com GREEN BIKE

CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST

15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES

34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS

70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941 THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES

29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156

thbc.vn

M M M

DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 5190

artvietnamgallery.com

Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks. MANZI GALLERY & BAR / CAFE

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

facebook.com/manzihanoi

Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices. NHA SAN COLLECTIVE GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316

nhasanstudio.org

The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.

peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com

Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts.

SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

WORK ROOM FOUR

2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286

DENTAL CLINIC

19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888

serenitydentalclinic.com

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555

westcoastinternational.com

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ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho

workroomfour.com

A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes col-

162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST.IN.M 48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907

ANNAM GOURMET

LAN SALON

GROCERIES / DELI

First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487 DA LOC WINE RETAILER

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789

Daloc.vn

HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009

Hanoigourmet.com KITCHEN ART KITCHENWARE

38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770

kitchenart.vn L'S PLACE GROCERY SHOP

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911 NATURALLY VIETNAM ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130

naturallyvietnam.com

TOP-END SALON

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190

M M M HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC) CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS

44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (4) 3265 6888

acc.vn/en

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems. BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL

136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717

bumrungrad.vn

WINE RETAILER

10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337 THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE

GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701

warehouse-asia.com

M M M HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON HAIR SALON

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

SHOPPING MALLS GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER

The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500

INDOCHINA PLAZA

241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596

LOTTE CENTER

54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016

lottecenter.com.vn PARKSON

Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666

parkson.com.vn PICO MALL

RED APRON

VEGGIE’S

vnfam.vn

UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON

WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131

PEACE DENTAL CLINIC

HAIR STREAM

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM

DENTAL CLINIC

M M M

NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM

3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434

australiandentalclinic.com

laboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH) INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL 32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3715 3666

jieh.vn

JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards, the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany), and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss - Germany) for refractive surgery. Top-end customer service and a friendly, contemporary environment add to the mix.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748

vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and inter-

229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400

SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999

VINCOM ROYAL CITY

72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550

national doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service. FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100

hfh.com.vn

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL

55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880

hongngochospital.vn

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666

Internationalsos.com

Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL

12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231 VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556

vinmec.com

M M M INSURANCE

IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370

insuranceinasia.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111

libertyinsurance.com.vn

REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488

M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435

bishanoi.com

A selective, independent, co-educational day school. Provides a British-style education following the

National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards.

of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students.

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2, Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818

concordiahanoi.org

A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140

hisvietnam.com

With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

kinderworld.net/sis

Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers. UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551

unishanoi.org

Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of

our global society and natural environment.

M M M MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS

37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096 MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS

106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464

3718 6332

fair-realestate.com GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS

R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589

gialonghousing.com HANOI RENTING RENTALS

No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828

hanoirenting.com

LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS

38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999

PHUNG MOTORBIKE

houseinhanoi.com

MOTORBIKE RENTALS

VIETLONG HOUSING

13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105 VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS

17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS

6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

RENTALS

21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203

vietlonghousing.com

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511

vn.alliedpickfords.com

The largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage —

isvietnam.org

A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small. KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209

kinderworld.net

Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418

hanoi.qsi.org

QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 139

DAY TRIPPER: HANOI THE CHURCH IN BA VI

A former French-built hillstation, the villas of Ba Vi have long-since been consumed by the jungle. Jesse Meadows goes in search of one of the area’s best-known landmarks — the church

“W

ho wants to help me find the abandoned church in Ba Vi?”

I sent out a mass Facebook message, and within hours I had a crew of five ready to adventure. From Hanoi, it’s just over an hour drive by motorbike; an easy excursion, and a necessary escape from the asphalt jungle. The church was part of a series of buildings constructed in the mountains by the French for their senior military officers, including a resort, a summer camp for children, a prison and a number of villas. Many of the villas have begun to crumble and succumb slowly to the vegetation, offering an eerie playground for a day of exploration. We were advised by a local to go to the entrance of the park and ask for ‘nha tho’ (‘altar house’). “Everyone knows where it is,” he told us. Led by trusty Google Maps on a short detour through the small towns to the northwest of Hanoi, we eventually hit

140 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Highway 32 and followed it through Son Tay to the base of the mountains. The gate to Ba Vi came up fast. “Six kilometres!” the smiling park guard replied when we asked for nha tho, putting a map in our hands. We began our ascent, weaving up through a forest dotted with bright yellow flowers, the view to our right growing ever more epic as we climbed.

Selfies, Ao Dais and Mystique The map is not the most detailed, and it took some trial and error and a few wrong turns before we found the church. First, pass through the large resort, then Ngoc Hoa stream on the right. After you pass the stream, the road will split at a sign. Turn left, then another left at a road marked on either side by two brightly coloured temple flags. Stay left again when the road splits (and don’t be distracted by that ruined villa you pass, it’s not the church). Keep climbing and the nha tho will come into view, nestled amongst the greenery.

It’s a popular spot for photographers, professional and amateur alike, and you may have to vie for space amongst the pretty girls posing in ao dais and the selfie enthusiasts. We perched on empty window sills and cracked open our sodas, content to listen to our friend play his pan flute amid the mysterious sounds of the forest. The roof of the church has long collapsed, and trees have taken its place. Green moss grows up all the walls, etched out in places where past visitors have left their marks. If you are patient enough to wait for the other tourists to filter out, it becomes a serene, meditative space. Give yourself enough time; there are numerous options for adventure around the nha tho. We decided to go on a hike in search of waterfalls, but as it’s the dry season, we didn’t find much. Still, my favourite part of the day was the descent down those windy mountain roads, fresh air whipping past my face, the sunset through the tree cover casting golden light on the road.

Getting There The most direct route is to take the Thang Long Highway (starts at Nguyen Chi Thanh) out of Hanoi towards Hoa Lac. At the junction with Hoa Lac go straight on and follow signs to Vuon Quoc Gia Ba Vi. The church is 6km from the park entrance.

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 141

THE ALCHEMIST HEAVEN-SENT

n Hanoi, we’ve all seen them, flattened on the road or hanging from hooks. The lucky ones are scurrying across the street or along telephone wires. Rats. I have them in my yard and in my open ground floor space. I’m not impressed. My Reiki practitioner friend has encouraged me to look for the messages Rat is bringing to my life. Keywords associated with Rat symbolism are resourcefulness, strength in a crisis, supporting yourself and others, and spiritual wealth. While Rat has apparently come into my life to bring awareness to its teachings, I hope I am a quick study. There are many lessons to learn during our time here on Earth, in fact many spiritual teachers say this is why we are here, to learn and experience our true nature. As we journey through life, we are offered lessons and guidance from the

142 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com

people in our lives, our pets, Nature and Spirit.

Who or What is Spirit? The American Heritage Dictionary defines Spirit as ‘incorporeal consciousness’ and describes the various forms of Spirit, such as The Holy Spirit, fairies, angels, demons, as well as our own ‘higher self’. All of these aspects of Spirit may be trying to teach us something at any given moment. Often, the messages from Spirit, if they’re not dismissed entirely, are perceived as pure coincidence. However, as we become more attentive to the signs, our level of awareness heightens and the messages become more discernible. Some people receive unambiguous, detailed messages from Spirit. However, most of us have forgotten how to dial into the direct line of communication. Paying attention to the signs helps open up the

BY KAREN GAY

transmission channels.

How to Recognize the Signs? Staying present and in the moment helps us to notice phenomena that are occurring either within us or in our environment. Some common signs are: goose bumps somewhere on your body, but you’re not cold; repeating number sequences, for example, 333; experiencing synchronicities, to name a few. The messages we receive from Spirit may serve as validation or course-correction depending on our circumstances. The form the message takes is not as important as the message itself. I will try to keep this in mind as I joust with my most recent emissary. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

Hanoi

both inside and outside of Vietnam. JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Essentials

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762

agsfourwinds.com

A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.

MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281

elitefitness.com.vn

The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495

nshapefitness.vn SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805

santaferelo.com

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515

with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

SCORE-TECH

YOGA & MEDITATION

44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

M M M SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT

VIETCLIMB

19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6273 3095

vietclimb.vn

Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

ADIDAS FOOTBALL

40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185

hanoisport.vn

ZENITH YOGA

studio5.vn

CLIMBING CENTRE

HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757

FOOTBALL & SPORTS

BOO SKATESHOP SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

bosua.vn

13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305

umove.com.vn

SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem

bigc.vn CITIMART Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617

PHOTO BY JESSE MEADOWS

metro.com.vn

THE THERAPIST DEPRESSION

BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA

Dear Douglas, My girlfriend has been having a hard time for a while now for no apparent reason. She seems to be depressed and not able to get out of it. While she can go to work, she doesn’t want to do much with friends or other activities she used to like doing. Last week we had a big fight because I told her that her depression was affecting me and I was tired of trying to cheer her up and of staying home because she doesn’t seem to like any of our friends any more. She told me I am selfish and that she can’t help it. I never heard her be so critical of me, other friends we know, and herself. I know depression creates low moods, but now I think it is affecting her thinking. Is there more I can say or do? She said that she doesn’t want to go to therapy because all psychologists say the same things and can’t help her. — I feel like I am watching a sinking ship Dear Sinking Ship, Depression is the most common mood disorder and affects 50% of people at some time during their lifetime. Being a partner or friend of someone who is depressed can be very challenging. On one hand you want to be supportive and understanding, and yet at some point it can bring you down as well. Often a partner, family member or friend has to find a balance between being there for another… and being there for one’s self. It doesn’t help another person if you yourself become depressed or resentful. You talked about your girlfriend being in a low mood, not wanting to do things that she enjoyed previously, and having critical or negative thinking towards others and life itself over a period of months. There also seems to be no apparent circumstantial reason for her mood. This sounds like depression and, while many people can work or function, it tends to be a downward spiral that needs to be dealt with by a professional. There are many negative patterns which have the tendency to reinforce the downward spiral. I will address a few of the thought patterns that tend to occur in depression. People do these things without realizing that they are. 1) Filtering. The tendency to see things in a negative light. When our moods are normal, we can see both positive and negative aspects of life. When we are depressed we see less good and are focused on what is wrong. 2) Over-generalizing. The tendency to

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take a specific situation and apply it as a general truth. When someone uses terms like; always, never, all, everyone, nobody, etc. It causes people to avoid dealing with specific situations because they are discouraged by these general assumptions. 3) All or nothing thinking. The tendency to divide situations into terms of black and white, without being able to hold the two parts simultaneously. When our moods are more balanced we can see things in shades of grey. 4) Catastrophizing. The tendency to turn small disappointments into big disasters. Proportion is lost. Intense emotions dominate the thought process and reduce the ability to contextualize. 5) Labeling. The tendency to turn a judgment into a name (noun). Words like idiot, loser, bitch, etc. create fixed and rigid ways of seeing things, both in others and toward one’s self. 6) Mind-reading. The tendency to think that one knows what other people are thinking about them. Often it is a negative interpretation in the form of a judgment they might have towards themselves. 7) Fortune-telling. The tendency to know what will happen in the future — a negative expectation driven by a depressed outlook. 8) Perfectionism. The tendency to see one’s self and the world in comparison to a

high standard or a hypothetical reality that is unattainable. The result is to always feel “less than”. 9) A long list of “shoulds”. A branch of perfectionism. A person can measure one’s self or others against the ways they “should” do things. This is a recipe for negative thinking because each of us is full of imperfection and reality is rarely as it “should” be. While we all might recognise some of these tendencies in ourselves, depressed people can be stuck in these distorted patterns of thinking without realising that they have lost perspective. Their mood affects their thoughts and their thinking pattern affects their mood… thus it is a downward spiral that can be difficult to stop alone. You might show your girlfriend this and ask her to see which of these resonates with her. You might also refuse to accept her premise that therapy cannot help her and push her to try it for a few weeks and then decide. Depression is something that people can overcome. It can help to have guidance. Good luck to you and your girlfriend, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

Hanoi On the Town

BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem

facebook.com/bar84hanoi

Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta. 88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029

88group.vn

A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit. ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar. BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI

15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix. BARBETTA

EDEN HANOI OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE

End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho

facebook.com/edengargen

When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list. ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE

95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes. FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211

linkhanoi.com

A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170

facebook.com/hrc.hanoi

Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming.

ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat. CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970

cama-atk.com

With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY

1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088 HOUSE OF SON TINH LIQUOR LOUNGE

31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377

sontinh.com

This bar-cum-restaurant is outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings and is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events including comedy nights and shows all the live football. Also known for its creative Vietnamese food menu. LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT

284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993

facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi

Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen,

especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly.

a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

ROCKSTORE

THE ROOFTOP

LIVE MUSIC BAR

SKYLINE LOUNGE

MADAKE

facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi

Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.

therooftop.vn

BAR & EVENT SPACE

81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665

facebook.com/madakehanoi

With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint. MAO’S RED LOUNGE LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers. PANIC BAR LGBT BAR

40A Yen Phu, Ba Dinh A watering hole dedicated to the increasingly confident local LGBT community, this grunge-style bar puts on DJ nights and is also the home of the local Zine, Hanoi Panic. Also serves up Thai streetfood. Check out their Facebook page for a list of their events.

61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087

SIDEWALK HANOI DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE

199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi

A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty. SPY BAR HOLE IN THE WALL

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for.

THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho

facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The

2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. Now, as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL

40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838

tracyspub.com

A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi.

MODERN BEER HALL

LONG BAR

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE

VUVUZELA

POLITE PUB 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches.

THE UNICORN BAR

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places.

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience.

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

PHUC TAN

19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901

Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333

facebook.com/Nest. Lounge.09XuanDieu

The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats. It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas. The views here are pretty eye-catching, too. THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116

republic.vn

A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922

vuvuzela.com.vn

When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.

CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE

2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths

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BAR STOOL THE KNEIPE

f you blink on To Ngoc Van, you might miss The Kneipe, which only has a tiny black-and-white sign and some motorbikes outside letting you know it’s there. It’s that easy to miss. Yet despite being late on a Monday, the Kneipe, which is German for “pub”, is in fact fairly lively. The bar staff welcome you with big smiles, and you may or may not see a table or two full of German men sipping beers and discussing whatever it is people discuss in German at night. You will probably get a large helping of wonderfully spicy peanuts in what looks like a glass shark fin container set in front of you. And you will get a beautiful waitress distracting you from reading the extensive menu, which contains a great list of cocktails and single malts as well as some nice German beer.

What the Doctor Ordered You will also be distracted by the amusing signs on the walls. “Bier ist gut... Sagt der Arzt!” says one of a winking doctor, which roughly translates as “Beer is good... for your heart!” Probably. More signs in the toilets let patrons know that this is a light-hearted and humorous establishment. “How do you like your beer served?” asks one, with pictures of a pint protecting the modesty of various female body parts. “Casual sex: because

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PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

formal sex involves too many thank-you notes!” exclaims another, banking on the assumption that people still write thank-you notes, which they do not. In one corner you will see an empty stage lying forlorn, strewn with microphone stands attesting to the fun that was had on a previous occasion (live music happens on Friday and Saturday nights, according to the beautiful waitress. I am nodding and looking at her perfect teeth). Two flatscreen TVs show sport of some kind, but in all likelihood not many people will be watching —The Kneipe is a place for good conversations. If you order a caipirinha (VND110,000), you will have to spend a few minutes stirring it to dissolve the gigantic sugar granules (someone should tell them about simple syrup), although it’s still quite tasty and refreshing. A good option is the imported Hofbrau Weissbier (VND95,000), crisp and cloudy in its tall glass. The bar is made of scrubbed wood, lending warmth and freshness to the atmosphere, and the middle-aged German men seem to be having a nice, quiet evening. So are we. So is everyone. If you go, you might, too. — Kate Robinson The Kneipe is located at 52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi

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COFFEE CUP O’DOUCEURS

he merging of French and Vietnamese styles is everywhere in O’Douceurs, which has Vietnamese pop music playing quietly in the bckground and a scene of Paris on the wall. But the first thing that draws your eyes when you walk in the door are the pastries, shining row upon decadent row like presents wrapped up in multicoloured paper. Co-owner Silen Garrigues trained as a pastry chef in France, later working in Switzerland, where he met his Vietnamese wife-to-be Dung, and then moved to Hanoi three years ago. Their small bakery/café has now been open for a year.

France Meets Vietnam Meets Warren Buffet The few tables near the counter downstairs were empty when I arrived, but upstairs nearly every table is full of patrons sipping either Vietnamese or Western-style espresso

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PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

coffees. The grey and white tones and simple decor of the room are made homier with potted plants and warm incandescent lighting. I choose a comfy-looking sofa under a shelf stocked with French-English dictionaries, various Livres de Poche, some Vietnamese novels, and, oddly, a biography of Warren Buffett, settling down to enjoy a well-made Americano (VND35,000) that comes with a small cookie and fresh milk. The coffee is delicious, but the pastry is better. One bite of the Paris-Brest (VND38,000) is enough to make me forget the coffee, the patrons, and even Warren Buffet. Light, creamy, nutty and not too sweet, as the almond pastry melts in my mouth the minor worries of daily life in Hanoi melt along with it. Suddenly I am transported to a roadside cafe in a small French village. Who has lessons to plan? Certainly not me, as my name is now Anne-Marie and I spend my time running through golden fields of wheat.

When the pastry is eaten I must return to reality. Silen and his cream-coloured Labrador Su Kem happen to come in as I’m about to leave, and we start chatting. Although he and his wife have not really had a day off in the entire year O’Douceurs has been open, they will soon add even more work for themselves: they’re expecting a daughter any day now, and are building a new kitchen on the third floor for Silen to run pastry classes. They also hope to expand the café/ bakery to more locations in Hanoi, then Danang, Ho Chi Minh City and the rest of Vietnam. “You can never reach perfection,” Silen tells me. “But as long as you keep trying, you will improve.” Silen and Dung will keep trying; they have made a very good start with O’Douceurs — Kate Robinson O’Douceurs is at 91 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

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Hanoi On the Town

and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. They also do coffee. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240

coffeebean.com

This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

congcaphe.com

With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE

89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. DUY TRI VIETNAMESE CAFÉ

43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.

ing with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN

5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

highlandscoffee.com.vn

With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY

22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071

joma.biz

Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt. MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

facebook.com/manzihanoi

A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

(04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains. PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE

16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night.

COURTYARD CAFE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea. HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE

2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era build-

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MAISON DE TET DÉCOR LIFESTYLE CAFE

36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

On-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occasional farmers’ markets.

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL

14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

VEGETARIAN / VEGAN

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com

A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.

EAT

CAFE / BOULANGERIE

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times. TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations. THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117

facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub

A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.

AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155

alfrescogroup.com

YOLO 32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh

facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops Boasting an abundance of

just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served up with locally brewed craft beer, and this one’s a bit of a winner. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098

facebook.com/cousins.hanoi

A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN

18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available. DALUVA

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224

aulacdobrazil.com

A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831

daluva.com

A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT

288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945

asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD

129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment. CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER

FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE

MOC CAFE

ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE

SAINT HONORE

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. Open 24 hours.

4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6292 1044

chopsvietnam.com

Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint, and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list. EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991

elgaucho.com.vn

With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up

for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN

59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959

foodshop45.com

Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. FRENCH GRILL TOP-END GRILL

JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

facebook.com/frenchgrill

With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286

greentangerinehanoi.com

A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. HALIA HANOI SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3946 0121

thehalia.com

A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list. HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC

5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN

10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668

indiapalacehn@vnn.vn

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor. J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL

G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered. JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388

alfrescogroup.com

An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list. JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN

white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325

LA BICICLETA

Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World.

thbc.vn

alfrescosgroup.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337

koto.com.au

The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors. LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509

labadiane-hanoi.com

On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly

BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO

44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays. LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN

5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950

lasalsa-hanoi.com

A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317

verticale-hanoi.com

Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese-French fusion cuisine. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both

classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN

36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968

linguinifini.com/en/hanoi

With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas. LUNA D’AUTUNNO CLASSIC ITALIAN

27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338

lunadautunno.vn

This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list. MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE PAN-CHINESE

Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn

Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

— homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven. MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare. MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH

11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207

cafe-des-arts.com

A contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini. Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board. MOOSE AND ROO CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls. MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL

MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN

23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need

The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470

mooseandroo.com

There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides.

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TOP EATS PORTE D’ANNAM

s French chef Didier Corlou leads me through Porte d’Annam, I feel as though I’m on a tour of his childhood home. With one prized possession and anecdotal photograph after the next — 19th-century maps of Hanoi here, cherished paintings of Uncle Ho there — Porte d’Annam’s interior is homey yet grand. Porte d’Annam is a few steps from St. Joseph’s Cathedral, and boasts a history that’s nearly as rich. It was once home to three Jesuit brothers who lived within the space’s cavernous rooms, and Corlou has kept the rough design, the chipping dullyellow paint, and the original construction, maintaining an exquisite charm. The restaurant is Corlou’s fourth in Hanoi — he’s the man behind Madame Hien and

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La Verticale, and formerly led the kitchen at the Metropole. The name means the “door to Annam”, Annam being the name given by the early French arrivals to Vietnam. The name is fitting, as the restaurant is Corlou’s stage upon which to present classic Vietnamese dishes through the lens of his refined French cooking. “The culture of the country is in this restaurant,” he says. Porte d’Annam is built on innovation as much as on tradition. “People like cuisine that’s moving,” Corlou says. “People’s tastes are changing and we have to adapt with the people.” Corlou has a long relationship with Vietnam, having lived here since 1991, and has an equally long relationship with Vietnamese food. He praises Hanoi’s balance

of flavours, and its characteristic blend of herbaceousness, bitterness and spice. “I’ve written five books about this cuisine, I respect this cuisine, I talk about this cuisine,” he says. “This, to me, is the best cuisine in the world.”

Winter is Coming Corlou takes you on a trip through time with his signature fresh roll in four seasons (VND115,000). Plucking hungrily through this colourful platter, I work my way from spring to summer to autumn to winter — a crisp and floral green papaya roll; a refreshingly sweet prawn and mango combination; a rolled-up, creamy assortment of aromatic mushrooms; and a salty, rich fried duck nem wrapped with crunchy slaw

PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

and crisp herbs in a sheet of rice paper. Despite winter being my least favourite season, I’d take a full year of winter if it meant a full year of these nem rolls. Next up is a melt-in-your-mouth dish of seabass carpaccio (VND145,000). The strips of raw fish flake at my chopsticks’ delicate poke, but that doesn’t stop me from scraping up bits of fish smothered in a wasabi-sesame sauce with the earthy seaweed salad. It’s silky, salty, chewy perfection in a bite.

Ba Ba Ba with Cá Porte d’Annam’s main courses are full of surprises, and span Vietnamese cuisine from classic to modern. On the modern end of things is Corlou’s quirky take on a straightforward fish dish: rice field perch

“Paupiette” (VND173,000), a prawnstuffed snakehead fish that’s steamed in a 333 Beer can. On serving, the fish, packaged in a banana leaf and marinated in a turmeric-heavy mixture, is eased out of the beer can and the beer (which becomes bitter when cooked) is discarded. The leaf is unwrapped and the fish is sliced to reveal a vibrant core of jumbo prawn and herbs. It’s eaten similarly to cha ca, combined in extraordinarily tasty chopstick-fulls with rice noodles, herbs, vegetables and a splash of lime. Stepping back into tradition are the pork ribs (VND175,000), packing a punch of sweet, garlicky flavour that engulfs the generous serving of juicy meat. The meat is hearty and rambunctious, but delicate enough to

succulently spread its way across your tongue.

The Sweetest Goodbye In a city where you must ask twice to get a smoothie without sugar and condensed milk, Porte d’Annam’s blancmange is a refreshing twist: it’s sweet, but not too sweet. A cylindrical mould of spongy coconut mousse sits at the plate’s centre, topped with a scoop of cinnamon ice cream. Slivers of almonds add subtle crunch to each bite, and the dessert is rounded off with a snowfall of shaved cassia bark. I’m stuffed to the gills and my taste buds are giddy as I leave Porte d’Annam, scrolling through hordes of Instagram-worthy food pictures starring Corlou’s beautiful cuisine. — Noey Neumark

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 153

STUDENT EYE COMPARISONS

rom kindergarten to ninth grade, whenever we had to move around as a class we were always told to line ourselves up in pairs. Two-by-two, we’d hold hands and go from recess to classroom, classroom to classroom, anywhere. Why must it be in pairs? Why must we line up in twos and not threes, or fours? The obsession with this particular even number always struck me as odd. Looking back, it was probably just a problem of practicality, but never could I have guessed that this peculiar set-up would define the way I lead most of my school life.

My Alter Ego We are around the same height and the same body type. We sometimes speak in unisound and teachers confusing us with one another has become a common occurrence. Whenever we had to travel in pairs, we were each other’s default choices. “Best friend” is an awfully overused term, but what else would you call a person who would always hold your hand every time you go down the hallway?

154 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com

But as time goes by, a best friend becomes more than a friend, and even more than a lover. He or she, turns into your reference. One very concrete example? Whenever we got our grades back, I would ask her for her scores and compare them to mine. When we run together, I synchronise my breathing with hers for the sole purpose of keeping up with her pace. To the world, I am the more carefree, open, and possibly a more juvenile opposite of her, who is quiet and intimate. We’re so different, yet it sometimes seem like our brains are inter-wired. Because of this, ever since we met, it’s been a never-ending race to better the other one, to distinguish ourselves from each other. When I lose (and I lose a lot), I feel the worst when I lose to her, yet I would feel even worse if it was anyone else. She is the reason I push myself further when I think I’ve reached the maximum point. And I have an inkling that it’s the same way for her.

Apart at Last At the end of this school year, however,

BY TO THU PHUONG

there will no longer be a benchmark to measure up to, for either of us. As the doors to the exit of high school open wider and wider to swallow both of us up, we could be countries and continents apart. Inevitably, we will have to stop comparing ourselves to each other. Isn’t that better, though? Didn’t some wise man say that comparison is the enemy of happiness? I disagree. As my whole school life was based on comparisons, I can say with certainty that some comparisons draw out the best in people. I see qualities that are intrinsic to my best friend that are invisible to the naked eye, and even to her. She probably sees the best in me, traits that I probably never knew I had. And as we hold the keys to each other’s self-satisfaction, we constantly strive for better. So here’s a celebration to best friends, and the potentials they unveil in each other. An end note to my best friend who knows exactly who she is, stop worrying, you’ll be fine in college. In fact, you’ll excel, like I’ve always known you would

Hanoi

a loveable owner. PIZZA 4P’S JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444

pizza4ps.com

Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town.

Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local ingredients.

NAMASTE HANOI

POTS ‘N PANS

On the Town

PAN-INDIAN

46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400

namastehanoi.com

The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it. NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801

nineteen11.com.vn

Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier. OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE

4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337

hanoixua.vn/en

Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout.

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204

potsnpans.vn

Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. PRESS CLUB

(04) 3747 6245

thekafe.vn

Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355

sainthonore.com.vn

This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times.

STREETFOOD 3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM

18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho BANH CUON HANG GA BANH CUON

BANH DA TRON

6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho BANH MI 25 STREETSIDE BANH MI

25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem BIT TET NGON SO 5 VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK

20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO

67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA

1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem

THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ

PANE E VINO PAN-ITALIAN

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080

facebook.com/panevinoHN

Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and

MIXED GLASS NOODLES

7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES

54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem

PHO CUON HUNG BEN

BANH DA TRON

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO

MIEN TRON HANH

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

wrap-roll.com

hanoi-pressclub.com

SAINT HONORE

57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da

PHO BO CU CHIEU

14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem

Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere

COM RANG DUA BO

WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888

KCC (KIEN CAN COOK)

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513

thecartfood.com

Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk. THE KAFE CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: PHOTO BY TRUNG DEL

PHO BO

48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem

PHO CUON

26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA

7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA

1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO

49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO

10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO

13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO

5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem PHO TU LUN PHO BO

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem XOI HANG HOM STICKY RICE

44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL BUFF TO PEEL OR NOT TO PEEL

e all know small amounts of bacteria in food won’t affect us; our immune systems can fight off minor infections. But this isn’t the only reason for concern. Vegetables and fruits on the shelves in the supermarket and produce labelled ‘organic’ are showing high levels of pesticides and pollutants. Are we helping ourselves by removing the skins or washing? Elderly, very young children, and pregnant women are at greater risk. But is washing, scraping and peeling enough? Pesticides can stick to soft skins and the industry’s introduction of wax coating to preserve freshness and quality traps pesticide residues. This, combined with many root plants absorbing toxins through their root systems, makes it impossible to wash away the problems. Infants and children are more vulnerable to neurotoxic insecticides because of absorption and a decreased elimination through their gastro-intestinal tracts. Infants’ kidneys, for example, are immature and cannot excrete foreign compounds such as drugs as quickly as adult kidneys. But before we turn away from our fruit and veg; the dietary benefits of eating fresh fruit and vegetables are high — we need to start making lifestyle changes and become more interested in what we eat and where it comes from. Not everyone can afford to buy organic produce, but the tables below can still allow you to enjoy a full array of different types.

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The Dirty Dozen and The Clean 15 The ‘Dirty Dozen’ consistently have the highest levels of pesticides, making the argument to buy organic versions still very convincing but not compelling. These are: Apples; Strawberries; Grapes; Celery; Peaches; Spinach; Sweet bell peppers; Nectarines (imported); Cucumbers; Cherry tomatoes; Snap peas (imported); Potatoes The term ‘organic’ is under scrutiny in Vietnam where the use of pesticides and pollutants in the ground isn’t well controlled. All countries have different standards and enforcement; Vietnam still needs to progress in both dimensions. The ‘Clean 15’ foods have the lowest pesticide load, and consequently, from the viewpoint of pesticide contamination, are the safest conventionally grown crops to consume. These are: Avocados; Sweet corn; Pineapples; Cabbage; Sweet peas (frozen); Onions; Asparagus; Mangoes; Kiwi; Eggplant; Grapefruit; Cantaloupe (domestic); Cauliflower; Sweet potatoes Peeling and scrubbing is always recommended so you can remove some of the pesticide residues that may be present. You may also want to peel conventionally grown cucumbers, eggplant, potatoes and apples. This peeling recommendation is due to two factors. First, the outermost surfaces may be the most affected by pesticide spraying and second, the petroleum-based wax coatings that may work against your health. The medical impact on an adult of continually eating polluted vegetables and

BY DR. JOY

fruit cannot accurately be quantified. But there is concern about effects on IQ levels, skin infections and constant colds. Lifestyle changes together with preventative measures will help us in the years to come. A lot of people are turning to growing their own vegetables, as that way they can be assured where the produce has come from.

Harbouring Enemies Beware when buying pre-washed vegetables; even when foods say ‘doublewashed’, microorganisms can make their way into the water spreading onto whatever is being washed. Bag salads and cut greens have been some of the biggest culprits in spreading food-borne illnesses. Pay special attention to fresh herbs like basil, rosemary, cilantro and parsley. While washing these, always keep fresh produce away from other bacteria carriers, like raw chicken.

Extra Precautions Home-made cleaning solutions with bleach, vinegar or lemon juice are fine for soaking fruit and vegetables as well as shop-bought produce — they eliminate more bacteria and microbes. But a good 20-second wash under the tap should be sufficient for most uncut produce. Dr. Joy is a paediatrician at Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

BOOK BUFF ALLIED TO FEMINISM

ecently I read some interesting online discussions about being male and claiming feminist credentials. After a lot of argybargying between feminist philosophers and theorists, Professor Benjamin Jones from the University of Western Sydney helped my masculine dilemma with some salient advice. Writing in Independent Australia at the end of last year, Professor Jones stated: “However impressive a man’s feminist credentials may be, he can only ever understand misogyny at a theoretical level. He can never actually experience the gendered abuse faced by women and to that extent, is disqualified from telling women how they ought to respond.” He also stated that “… feminism is home to a dynamic range of female views on how to achieve meaningful equality. For genuine male feminists, if indeed we accept there is such a thing, the greatest badge of honour is simply that the women you encounter consider you an ally in this worthy project. This is the place that progressive gents should be proud to stay in.” We approached a selection of local feminists who have varying opinions on how to achieve meaningful equality and we asked them some to choose books from our shelves that they’d recommend to 16-yearold girls (and boys), books from a recent list in The Guardian newspaper that we’d culled from our shelves. Recommendation one was an essay by prize-winning author Chimamanda Ngozi Adiche (Half of a Yellow Sun) and is from her celebrated 2012 TED talk We Should All Be Feminist. Beyoncé paraphrased some of the talk in a song that pointed out that “we

BY HOANG VAN TRUONG

teach girls to shrink themselves to make themselves smaller. We say to girls — you can have ambition, but not too much.” Her book has been adopted by education authorities in Sweden and will be given to all 16-year-olds, regardless of gender, in the hope that they will also realise that “feminism is about justice” and that “females should be able to live in a world where they are not constrained by gender roles and where genders are truly equal”.

A coming-of-age book that explodes common attitudes about sex and gender and explores how modern beauty myths should be rebelled against, King Kong Theory aims to allow all teenage girls to acknowledge the bloody heart of rebellion beating in their breast; the rebel wanting to make her own choices and definitions about her own rules for life. Not a being who blindly accepts conformity and who acknowledges that making mistakes is a far better choice.

Small Mercies

Intersectionality

A couple of our feminist advisors voted for Nobel Prize winner, Toni Morrison’s slim novel, A Mercy. Although it is a story about the bondage of slavery in the US and the Americas, it can be extrapolated to be about the grim reality of suffering and bondage. Of slaves, both black and white; of indigenous populations; of servants; of women of all races who live at the mercy of men; of children; and of the mind. As Hilary Mantel says in a review of the book, Morrison describes it as going to the root of what humanity is, what society is: “In this barren universe too many do not reap what they sow, but rather what some stranger has sown.” An outspoken feminist friend suggested King Kong Theory by French author Virginie Despentes, a book that has caused volatile debate between feminist reviewers since it was published in 2006. The first line in the book is certain to grab hold of a lot of readers: “I am writing as an ugly crone for the ugly ones: the old hags, the dykes, the frigid, the unf***ed, the unf***ables, the neurotic, the psychos, for all those girls that don’t get a look-in in the universal market of the consumable chick.”

Our non-European feminist brought up the term “intersectionality” and used writer Gayatree Devi’s words to describe it as: being the wrong race, the wrong colour, and a girl, and thus regardless of where you live you can be exploited by the more powerful race, the more powerful colour, and men. Devi used the 1999 novel In Search Of April Raintree by Beatrice Culleton Mosioner about two Metis (people of mixed first nation and European ancestry) in Manitoba, Canada, as an empathetic, but violent introduction to this universal woman’s dilemma. It grabbed her attention as a teenager. From our shelves the other three advocates suggested Coonardoo by Australian, Katharine Susannah Prichard; The Color Purple by American Alice Walker and The Vagina Monologues by Eve Ensler as literature that had heightened their appreciation of intersectional feminism. Truong is an avid reader and runs Bookworm (44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi) and Bookworm Weekend (6 Lane 1/28, Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi). For more information on go to bookwormhanoi.com

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 157

158 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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T R AN HUNG | January 2016 Word | 159 wordvietnam.com Lon DAO g

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Business Buff / Body and Temple / The Gym Diaries / Bar Stool / Coffe Cup / Top Eats 1 / Top Eats 2 / A World of Good Photo by Kyle Phanroy 160 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com

HCMC Essentials

BAKERIES

L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE

ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ

223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1

phamngulao.abcbakery.co

Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available. BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

breadtalkvietnam.com

A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting. CRUMBS BAKERY & CAFE

117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992

crumbs.com.vn

Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available. Excellent Australianstyle meat pies. HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY

harvestbaking.net

With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details.

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072

lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS BAKERY & CAFE

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

touslesjoursbakery.com

The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam. VOELKER BAKERY

39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066

voelker-vietnam.com

French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

M M M BOOKSHOPS FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1

fahasa.com

Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts.

Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

pnc.com.vn

Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922

nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045

pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046

sbghcm.org

M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

ANUPA ECO LUXE

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912

This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

amchamvietnam.com

auschamvn.org

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430

LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394

anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm

BAM SKATE SHOP

bbgv.org

SKATEWEAR / STREET

CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754

Bamskateshop.com.vn

canchamvietnam.org LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858

facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to

174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826

BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING

1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN DESIGN & JEWELLERY

35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162

PHOTOS BY OWEN SALISBURY

galleryvivekkevin.com

This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month. GINKGO VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING

10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928

ginkgo-vietnam.com

Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

BUSINESS BUFF IS IT REALLY WORTH IT?

BY SHANE DILLON

Some lego has now become collectors' items

was recently in Hong Kong on a business/golf trip and got to hobnobbing with some pretty ridiculous rich people. Some of their stories of excessive consumption, particularly in the arts, had my jaw dropping. It got me thinking of other things I put little value in, that turn out to be worth quite a bit of coin.

pages stuck together (sic!) they can fetch upward of US$3,000.

Terrible Video Games and VHS movies

There is a large subculture (particular in the US) of grown adults who collect vacuum cleaners. Some of the vintage cleaners are worth a lot to these individuals. The king of the vacuums has a collection of over 300 hoovers.

Video games that had exceptionally short lives due to being so awful are now so rare that collectors pay in bulk to get their hands on them. This is particularly true for old console games. Similar to bad movies that years later get a cult following, apparently so too do awful old video games and movies on VHS.

Those old heavy metal T-shirts you (or in my case my brother) wore in the 1980s and 1990s are now highly sought-after collectibles. Some are worth several thousands of dollars now and are worn by fashionistas like Kim Kardashian.

Lego

Old Happy Meal Toys — old junk

As a father of young children, I have Lego all over the place, but apparently some certain pieces are worth a small fortune. Recently, a pink Duplo castle turret was sold for an astounding US$1,374.

Old Beer Cans

Old Cereal

Old beer cans are super trendy right now due to the resurgence on beer fanciness. Some cans are worth US$100, even without the beer in them.

Vintage cereal — sometimes even just the empty box is worth big money these days. In the 1980s and 1990s in the US there was a themed cereal for just about every TV sitcom from Alf to Steve Urkel. These are now serious collectable items and people are paying big money. Recently someone paid over US$200 for a 1988 cereal box with a Nintendo game theme.

Old junk in general seems to be having a renaissance in perceived value. I personally blame the hipsters for this one. Everything from old knock-off action figures to happy-meal toys are now seen as the must have accessory for your man-child hipster cave. This includes old cell phones and even old empty packaging boxes, business cards and PEZ candy dispensers. Shane probably has some junk in a cardboard box in Australia somewhere that is worth something today. He can be contacted with offers at shanedillon@ pacificcross.com

Old Metal Shirts

Old Men’s Magazines Old issues of men’s magazines, particularly Playboy, are now collector items. If you can find one in good condition with no

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Vintage Vacuum Cleaners

by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES

AIRLINES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701

ipa-nima.com

LITTLE ANH-EM

AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories. L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565

CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en

lusinespace.com

Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles. MANDARINA TAILOR-MADE SHOES

KOREAN AIR koreanair.com

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267 ORANGE

CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364

ambrij.com

A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM, corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts from international brands like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix, Ungaro and more. Also do event management services.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734

overlandclub.jp

The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days. SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485

saigoncookingclass.com

Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

BUDGET CLOTHING

LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com

152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620

9am to 10pm PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING

232 Bui Vien, Q1

papaya-tshirt.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS

39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556

triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE

VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE

268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946

atc-craft.com

TRAVEL GEAR

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588

Ubesthouse.com VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023

austinhomeinteriors.com

This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

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BODY

AND

TEMPLE

POSITIVE BEGINNING: PART ONE

n expat in Vietnam, Singapore or China gets the opportunity for two new beginnings each year — the western New Year and Tet or the Chinese New Year. However, year after year the vast majority of people who attempt self-directed health and fitness programmes fail. The difference between those who make it and those who don’t is won or lost before they even step in to the gym or kitchen. This article is Part One of Positive Beginnings, where I’m going to outline essential components and practices that make the real differences in body transformation. Mental preparation when striving for positive life change is the most overlooked aspect, yet the most important.

1) Be Positive Are you aware that 90% of our thoughts are negative? If we can change the way we think it has an immense impact on everything in our lives. Affirmations and visualisations are the best methods of doing this — I know it sounds airy-fairy but it really does work! Say positive statements every morning when you get up and every night before you go to bed and as many times as you can incorporate it throughout the day. You need to say these out loud and repeat them at least five times each. 1) I love my body 2) I believe in what I’m doing — every action counts 3) Every day I get closer to my ideal weight.

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4) I am enjoying the process of being healthy 5) I love the foods that make me lose weight 6) I remember how it feels to be fit and slimmer… I will get there 7) I am a good person and deserve good things

2) Set Definable Goals When most people set goals they simply imagine the outcomes. They give little thought to the actual steps — or actions — required to achieve the overall outcome. To truly strive and reach your ‘outcome goals’ you must also set clear ‘action goals’. The outcome is the end result and the actions are the bite-sized, achievable chunks you must perform to create the path to the end product. The aim is to not focus on the desired outcome, instead only think of the outcome when deciding upon the actions needed to achieve your desired goal. Then put the “blinkers on” and focus only on the actions that will lead you to be successful.

3) BE-Prepared Once you’ve outlined your goals you need to create lists. In our professional lives we employ daily checklists, tasks sheets, weekly rosters, monthly reports and so on to ensure business efficiency and success, but in our personal lives we seem to forget these fantastic systems. These plans are crucial to obtaining your health and fitness goals. Failing to Plan is Planning to Fail! Along with these plans you need to prepare your friends, colleagues, family and environment to aid you in achieving success.

BY PHIL KELLY

4) BE-Visual The use of mental imagery or creative visualization is a great tool for helping you achieve any goal. By visualizing, you induce your subconscious mind to help support your ambitions and accept the change, as it happens. Mental imagery can help you to have greater focus, it can inspire you, and it can help build selfconfidence. With all of this it becomes easier for you to achieve your desired outcome. We are more likely to believe in and to move forward towards our goals if we can actually see them as possible and have them at the forefront of our minds. A couple of simple ways to apply imagery and visualization to aid your body transformation and health and fitness goals: — Find a favourite picture of someone that inspires you and pin it up at eye level on the fridge and bathroom mirror. This could be anyone from Mahatma Gandhi, Bruce Lee, Hilary Clinton or the model in a fitness magazine, or you in a healthier and fitter time — whoever creates a positive response from seeing their image — Each evening visualise yourself in the new clothes that you will wear, the new activities that you will do and how good that will make you feel. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC Essentials

CHI LAI HOME FURNISHINGS

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE

This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

chilai.com

EM EM SOUVENIRS

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408

8am to 9.30pm

FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-creations.org NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS

2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459

8am to 8pm

MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS

1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-quilts.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115

nhaxinh.com

REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190

remixdeco.com

THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788

CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

firstBIKE.com.vn

FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development. JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM

384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3

jett-cycles.com

The showroom home of Jett Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114

xedapcaocap.com

Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs. THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405

thebikeshopvn.com

The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories. Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals. Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.

M M M DENTAL CLINICS ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800

accadent.com

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the

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HCMC

clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

Essentials

dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.

M M M ELITE DENTAL GROUP. 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 3737

info@elitedental.com.vn elitedental.com.vn

Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics. Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.

MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC

GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431

cthomasgallery.com

Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

dogmacollection.com

DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien,Q2

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019

Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399

STARLIGHT CLINIC

starlightdental.net

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777

westcoastinternational.com

An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS

Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100

maplehealthcare.net

Specialising in healthcare,

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GROCERY & DELI

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630

Annam-gourmet.com

Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.

GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105

classicfinefoods.com

Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions. SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059

san-art.org

San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

CRICKET

astere@hotmail.fr

ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353

SAIGON RAIDERS

richard.car rington@ market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038

MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565 Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.

PHUONG HA GROCERS

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products.

Saigonraiders.com SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7

saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com

deepteshgill@gmail.com

SPORTS — GENERAL

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

meatworksasia.com

baotangmythuattphcm.vn

SPORTS

samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

galeriequynh.com

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441 WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

CLASSIC FINE FOODS DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010

suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034

npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598

manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899

James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

Saigon-ultimate.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794

xrockclimbing.com

THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP

15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits. VEGGY’S GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.

HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671

avedaherbal@gmail.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926

catmocspa.com

Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625

Conceptcoiffure.vn

Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon. FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827

famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368

glowsaigon.com

Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

sors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188

Indochine-spa.com.vn

Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment. JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737

Jasminespa.vn

Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108

hairbar.vn

A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scis-

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366

cmi-vietnam.com

This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails. Cheap prices, too. SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575

spatropic.com

Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930

www.acc.vn

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery.

HAIR BAR CONTEMPORARY SALON

cated in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000

vietnammedicalpractice.com

Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500

fvhospital.com

International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care. FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167

fvhospital.com

State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

americaneyecentervn.com

American Eye Center is lo-

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HCMC Essentials

HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545

Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068

hanhphuchospital.com

Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999

sianclinic.com

The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990

stamfordskin.com

Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE

187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

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INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

victoriavn.com

Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

INSURANCE IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362

insuranceinasia.com

Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998

libertyinsurance.com.vn

International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more. BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor, Continental Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9908

bluecross.com.vn

Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote. TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367

ten-pac.com

A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36

theabcis.com

Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools worldwide. ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA, the Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment. AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040

aisvietnam.com

The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490

dancentervn.com

Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780

helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700

Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691

Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679

paa.com.vn

Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722

saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360

Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

bisvietnam.com

Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school

VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846

vin-space.com

to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam. EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257

eishcmc.com

The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

Energized Engaged Empowered

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

ishcmc.com

A fully accredited IB World School, authorised to teach all three programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully accredited by both the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC), two of the most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different nationalities.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456

cis.edu.vn

The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a newly built campus. KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944

kidsclubsaigon.com

Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities,

experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901

ssis.edu.vn

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP) 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788

issp.edu.vn

Set in a purpose-built campus, International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 years. With 90 percent of their teachers having master’s degrees, they are able to promise a vigorous American curriculum while including specialist subjects such as music, art, sport and languages.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639

montessori.edu.vn

Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122

renaissance.edu.vn

Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch. SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081

saigonkidskindergarten.com

SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels. SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827

saigonstarschool.edu.vn

Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236

smartkidsinfo.com

This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

FROM 04/01/2016 - 29/01/2016,

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223

tas.edu.vn

Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 169

HCMC Essentials

EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694

easysaigon.com

The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome. HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700

namhouse.com.vn

Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales. RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855

residentvietnam.com

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282

snap.com.vn

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS

77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690

saigonscootercentre.com

Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.

RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430

adecco.com.vn

Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office. HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888

THE NEST 216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 580800

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.

Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS

185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446

chiscafe.com

Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions. SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273

nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com

Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and

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the-ascott.com AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071

agsfourwinds.com

A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

M M M

Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

thenesthousing.com

Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678

Excels. Call for details and prices.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799

asiantigers-mobility.com

Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888

intercontinental.com/saigonres

Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111

vieclambank.com

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373

vietnamworks.com

The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220

alliedpickfords.com

With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

logicalmoves.net

Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065

santaferelo.com

M M M SERVICED APARTMENTS DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT,

With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

norfolkmansion.com.vn

Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

hr2b.com

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322

TATTOO ARTISTS

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

Riverside-apartments.com

Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle. SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288

sherwoodresidence.com

Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service. SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922

somerset.com

Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel.

EXILE INK 608

57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956

exileinkvietnam.com SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311

saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090

tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339

xamnghethuat.vn TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838

tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383

xamphunnghethuat. com

They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

M M M

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425

cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521

lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567

galaxycine.vn IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451

idecaf.gov.vn

CGV CINEMAS

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388

SPORTS & FITNESS

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE HEALTH CLUB & GYM

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership.

CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620

STAR FITNESS GYM

Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

laholista.com

HEALTH CLUB & GYM

THE LANDMARK CLUB GYM, POOL, SQUASH

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTRE BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326

cyril-and-you.com

This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com

In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

emy.vn

A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).

levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

M M M SPORTS GARMENTS

M M M VIETNAMESE CLASSES

SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771

vietnameselanguagegarden. com VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168

vlstudies.com

Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced

score-tech.net

VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM

Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612

facebook.com/vertical.acad-

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672

nutrifort.com

A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals. SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonhash.com

Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run. SHERATON FITNESS HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

cgv.vn

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 171

THE GYM DIARIES

Word staff writer Owen Salisbury has started to take his fitness seriously: he’s hired a trainer. In the second of a series of columns, Owen learns the value of patience

em gainz, goes the ancient bodybuilding proverb. I know I said I’d discuss nutrition this month, but this is the halfway mark and I thought I would stop and take stock of how far I’ve come. So, let’s talk about gains. Progress is usually incremental, so it’s often when we look back at where we started that we truly appreciate the length of road behind us. When I began hitting the gym again after years away, I’d be out of breath after half a dozen reps. My shoulder ached

172 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com

constantly, due to an old series of injuries. When I began, I slouched, pulling my shoulders up and back. I was sick for nearly four months.

Checking In In the last 10 weeks, my strength has increased by an average of 80% to 120% in the basic exercises we do. I can safely squat 80kg, and safely deadlift 110kg. When I began, I could barely manage the proper form without weights. My endurance shot up. Now I lift until my muscles burn, tremble and fail instead

of seeing spots and greying out after half a dozen reps. Now when Dan says: “Get 15 to 20,” I aim for 20 and as often than not, I hit it. When I began, Dan coddled me along. Now he has to hold me back. My waist shrunk a good 8.5cm; soon I’ll need a new wardrobe. Shadows of definition have appeared in my chest, arms, back and shoulders. I no longer walk with my shoulder pulled back and the pain is at its lowest in years, even though I regularly tweak the weakened joint in the gym. True, I still have the spare tire. It’s shrunk, and it will shrink more. By the end

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

of this six-month series, it will be gone. I’ve decided this, and I will make it happen. I feel good. My energy levels are up, my appetite is up, my enthusiasm is up. When I began, I was recovering from a concussion. I was sick for nearly four months due to the recurrence of a viral infection. I had insomnia most nights, when I began. What excites me most is something Dan said: “Now we’re ready for real work.” He meant that all that progress was prologue, and that the real transformation is yet to come.

The Point of All This There’s a real point to me telling you all this, and it is this: anybody can do it. You may be sick; I was. You may be tired; I was. You may be out of shape and overweight; I was. I won’t say these things don’t matter. Of course they do. But you can overcome them. We all have the capacity to astonish ourselves. We can all make ourselves better.

Taking the First Step Start as small as you have to. Take the stairs instead of the elevator. Walk to the store. Find a local gym. Just take that first

step. I did, and I cannot express how much it’s helped. The biggest barrier to improving your health is psychological inertia. Taking that first step means the second step is a fraction easier, the third easier still. It never gets easy — I watch Dan sweat and puff and grit his teeth as he does sets of 100 squats. It’s hard work, but he keeps going. The real gains, after all, are quality of life. That’s what exercise is about; improving your health, helping you feel well. Trust me — it works. And really, what do you have to lose?

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 173

HCMC On The Town

BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists. APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB

2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124

apocalypsesaigon.com

An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back. BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR

90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588

biacraft.com

As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB

95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details. BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD

40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452

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With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). BROMA, NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. BUDDHA BAR

LAST CALL EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR

Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Night live music and DJs. GAME ON

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE

59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122

lastcallsaigon.com

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters. LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.

175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.

HOA VIEN

LONG PHI

CZECH BREWHOUSE

FRENCH / RESTOBAR

SPORTS BAR

115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898

gameonsaigon.com

RESTOBAR

7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345

Buddhabarsaigon.com

Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys. CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR

45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4202 A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene, Champion is located in the Backpackers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. Also has a pool table, darts, tasty Western and Vietnamese food, great cocktails and ice cold beer. Western managed, wonderful local staff. #BeAChampion. CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city. D2 SPORTS BAR

55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack? A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check out their daily food specials.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE

Tel: 0906 912730

www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605

hoavien.vn

The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer. ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR

24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports.

207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine. MAY RESTAURANT & BAR LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180

lahabana-saigon.com

Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes. LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

EAT.VN www.eat.vn

HUNGRYPANDA. VN

www.hungrypanda.vn KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

www.kfcvietnam.

An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space.

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn

mayrestaurant.com.vn

com.vn

LOTTERIA

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388

NUMBER FIVE LA HABANA

www.dominos.vn

www.pizzahut.vn

EXPAT BAR

44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music.

SCOOZI

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com

OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon. O’BRIEN’S IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com

irish-barsaigon.com

This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience. PEACHES CURRY PUB

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt. PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS

46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796

SAIGON SAIGON BAR

THE OBSERVATORY

LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

BAR, ART & DJ SPACE

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

caravellehotel.com

This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday. SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR

THE ORIENT

61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere.

facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon

shrinebarsaigon.com

SEVENTEEN SALOON THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007

seventeensaloon.com.vn

From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

RUBY SOHO

SPOTTED COW

CARTOON BAR

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT

S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks.

111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670

phattysbar.com

SAIGON OUTCAST

Alfrescosgroup.com

Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198

Saigonoutcast.com

Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets. SAIGON RANGER

STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL

5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738

Stormp.vn

Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. A good place to watch the live sports.

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559

facebook.com/saigonranger

Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.

THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR

31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798

facebook.com/thecubesaigon

A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1

An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more. THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines. XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468

xusaigon.com

This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

M M M CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanese-style interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker. AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm. BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003

sam.nguyen197@gmail.com

facebook.com/vespersaigon

A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and Germaninfluenced cuisine to supplement the drinks. VINYL BAR MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623

vinylbarsaigon.com

A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League. WINE BAR 38 CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass. WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827

wineembassy.com.vn

A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines

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BAR STOOL LIQUID SKY BAR

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

n a city with a rapidly growing number of ‘elevated’ drinking experiences, Liquid proves that you can still deliver something special with the right combination of elements. Sitting on the top floor of the 21-storeyhigh Renaissance Riverside Hotel, the elements at work here are spectacular CBD views, upmarket lounging, a pool, VIP areas and as good a cocktail as you’ll find anywhere.

What a concept Greeted by director of operations Kamal Munasinghe, we are told about the ‘Liquid’ concept. The idea came up through his relationship with Liquid Gold, a premium beverage company based in Italy, and it’s them who have put up the investment. Their desire to make use of the views and open up the space to the public meant that things moved quickly between October, when construction began, and the bar’s grand opening on Dec. 2, transforming it from a low-key pool bar into a bone-fide

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head-turner. The view of District One and the Saigon River as it widens out towards Saigon Pearl speaks for it itself, and with so much water, calming you and truly elevating your nighttime mood, the name of the bar seems obvious. Far from being just another sky bar, though, Liquid also proves that Vietnam’s thirst for high-end entertainment venues is not letting up; note — opulence and a bit of extravagance are high on the menu here, with other plans afoot.

Ginger Ninja So what of the drinks? If our expectations hadn’t been raised enough by our location, serving us herself was a two-time, top four Diageo World Class Mixologist competitor (meaning she beat out over 200 other bartenders to get there) Ms. Nguyen Ngoc Quyen, who comes with some serious Saigon pedigree. Trained by MTV Awards bartender Bernardo Bernard, she’s also opened the doors at Chill Skybar, GLOW

and was resident at Martini Bar until Kamal lured her over. Confessing my rum fetish, Quyen whipped up what she called a sticky rice (VND260,000++) which included dark rum, hand-made pandan syrup and a pandan perfume. Even writing these words, I can almost taste it again, in all its velvety, caramel-like goodness. This was a seriously good cocktail, and worthy of a second. Following that came a ginger ninja (VND260,000++), which was made of smoky whiskey, ginger and another hand-made ginger syrup. As a fan of the flavoursome root, this one had a punch and aftertaste that still let the whiskey do the talking. Delicious. And for the finisher, a completely refreshing negroni sbagliato (VND260,000++), which kept my mood up until my work at Liquid was done. Liquid Bar; what’s life if you don’t stop a while to enjoy the view? Liquid Sky Bar is on the 21st floor of the Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC

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COFFEE CUP VANILLA & BUTTER

s smooth as the name sounds, this cafe — which can be admired through the window from the busy street where it is located — remains a peaceful spot in which to sample a large selection of drinks and cakes. This may be a reflection of the owner Yun Lukas, a person with style, creativity and originality, who has brought together his inspiration and his experience from around the globe to create Vanilla & Butter. The creator of this Japanese-style and simple-looking café developed his passion for baking during his childhood and hasn’t let go of it since. As a result, as well as working at a fashion company, he has

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PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

written a few cookbooks and opened this sophisticated bakery-café with help from his sister.

Baked-On Talent The menu contains an appealing variety of drinks such as coffees, frappuccinos, teas, smoothies and sodas. The moment I saw the words ‘coconut coffee’ on the board, I knew what I was going to order. And it was certainly worth it. A beautiful long glass containing just both the right amount of iced coffee and the right amount of coconut milk, it was a one-way ticket to heaven with some coconut tips and coffee beans as topping. Be advised that it may take you a while

to get away from the counter after checking out and salivating at all their gorgeouslooking cakes. There are just so many options to indulge in. In a close decision, I chose the pistachio and coffee cake and the red velvet cake. The cakes looked so beautiful that it was hard to imagine despoiling them with a fork, but I overcame this feeling and dug in. The cake was impressively tender, smooth and spongy, but perhaps lacking a bit of intense flavour. But I’m sure I will have more opportunities to stare at that counter again and fulfil my mission of finding the best cake of all. — Natalia Martinez Vanilla & Butter is at 51 Tran Quoc Toan, Q3, HCMC

HCMC On The Town

A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657

cafethoaivien.com

Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE

213 Bui Vien, Q1

facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee

Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar. COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL

157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1

coffeebean.com.vn

Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth. DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL

79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115

Decibel.vn

Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like

live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830

guanabanasmoothies.com

An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme. HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222

Hideawaycafe-saigon.com

Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair. I.D. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE

34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910

Idcafe.net

Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee. L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH

First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703

lusinespace.com

French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi. M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)

3822 2495

facebook.com/m2ccafe

At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town. MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400

facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee

Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation. PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM

8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330

themorningcafe.com.vn

Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an

afternoon well-spent. THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272

facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe

Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe. THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE

158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

chillsaigon.com

Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix. AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL

27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424

alfrescosgroup.com

The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2. ASHOKA

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205

facebook.com/thingscafe

Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177

ashokaindianrestaurant. com

Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

M M M EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ

Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution. 27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157

aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.

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TOP EATS DIEGO’S TACO SHOP

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

own an alley off Co Giang in District 1, a cosy taqueria sticks out from the neighbouring Vietnamese eateries. With bright yellows and greens warming visitors upon entry, Diego’s Taco Shop gives more than a slight nod to the Mexican eateries you find in San Diego, California, the city from which Diego’s draws its name. “Having been here for five years, I’ve tried every Mexican joint but none clicked to remind me of home,” says San Diego native Peter Pham, who runs Diego’s with his wife Thao. “I was raised on Mexican food — burritos, tacos, rolled tacos. I talked about [starting Diego’s] with my wife for about a year and a half.” He adds that most of the Mexican options in Saigon are geared towards a more TexMex flavour, with Diego’s offering the light and fresh flavours of the cuisine of the country’s west coast, the Pacific side. Certainly the number of Mexican restaurants that have popped up in Ho Chi Minh

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City over the last couple of years offer an opportunity for a more localised treatment of the country’s cuisine. “We don’t stuff our burritos with rice and beans, we use different herbs,” says Peter. He is presently developing a vegetarian menu, with all items having the option of meat substituted for beans or, surprisingly, jackfruit. Fish tacos and burritos are also in the works.

Poppers, Ostrich and Horchata Peter’s interest in authentic, Baja-style Mexican cuisine includes producing homemade tortillas and hot sauces while also introducing some wrinkles to a traditional menu, such as the Eastside fries with ostrich meat (VND130,000). Smothered in grated cheese and vegetables, they are a fresher take on a favourite, paired with the tender ostrich meat. I come away a big fan of Diego’s poppers (VND59,000). With homemade cream cheese stuffed in a chilli pepper, which is then

battered and deep fried, the creamy dip that accompanies the poppers offers a hint of kick with a slight mustard accent. The rolled beef tacos (VND75,000) also provide a colourful distraction, with vivid yellows and greens. Depending on the day, Peter says the tortillas can be red as well, just amping up the brightness on the plate. For refreshment, I have my first horchata (VND35,000) which comes served in a handled mason jar. While in some Latin American countries the drink is more milky, some recipes do not call for milk. The version at Diego’s comes chilled, sweet and milky with a hint of cinnamon. Peter says some other plans are in the works, including a two-for-one taco night, a book exchange programme and happy hour promotions. But for fans of Mexican food, it’s good to know that there is more variety than ever before in Saigon. — Harry Hodge For more info about Diego’s Taco Shop, visit their Facebook page. Diego’s Taco Shop is located at 41/9 Co Giang, Q1, HCMC

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TOP EATS MATSUZAKAYA

atsuzakaya’s story is that of a cool Japanese restaurant which stands at a corner in one of the alleys of Le Thanh Ton and perfumes its intense magic all around. This is an original and cosy joint in which to enjoy a seriously good ramen, among other assorted Japanese fare. When I say cosy, I mean a tiny place where there is not much space to spread yourself, and where big groups of people meeting for dinner is not the most ideal dinner plan. And cosy because the kitchen stands in the middle, vapourising clouds of flavour in all directions — fragrances of curry, pork cutlet, rice, noodles and chicken, which could be translated into something dangerously good. Good and greasy; the kind of grease that doesn’t bother you, the kind of grease that makes you want more.

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PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

Ramen Scattering Among their extended list of options, the popular Japanese noodle soup chashu ramen (VND120,000) was the winner. This comes with plenty of ingredients — noodles, nori seaweed, Japanese marinated soft boiled egg and Japanese braised pork — in a rich broth sprinkled with sesame seeds. Apparently I’ve been eating ramen wrong all my life. Well, I tried this heavenly dish for first time only last summer. When our photographer, Francis, saw how I cut my egg into small pieces instead of eating it in one bite she immediately stopped taking photos and told me firmly that that was not the way to eat the soup. “You don’t cut up the noodles and you don’t cut up the egg,” she said. “You keep the elegance of the way it arrives on your plate.”

Another must related to the ramen is to order a set of gyozas or Japanese dumplings (VND50,000). Even though you feel already stuffed with the rest of the meal, go for it. This is just snacking. The pork cutlet with egg and rice (VND120,000) is also a winner. The breaded cutlet fried with egg melts in your mouth reaching every single crevice with a pleasant sweetness. This is served on a bed of rice as creamy as the pork, resulting in a fulfilling dish. Don’t leave without trying the fried rice with chicken (VND100,000). Exquisite, smooth and mild Japanese curry with a balanced richness, which when mixed with rice and the boneless crispy chicken is just delicious. — Natalia Martinez Matsuzakaya is at 17/34A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC

HCMC On The Town

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ

23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772

auparcsaigon.com

Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661

babaskitchen.in

This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.

BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261

bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.

tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river. BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front. BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL

CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592

boomarang.com.vn

Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH

BLACK CAT AMERICAN

13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055

blackcatsaigon.com

Creatively named burgers,

38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and

beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE

40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502

Chiscafe.com

This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service. CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN

11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329

saigonrestaurantgroup.com

New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE

16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for. CORSO

elbowroom.com.vn

The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains. EL GAUCHO

HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909

elgaucho.com.vn

A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town. EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN

Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients.

HOANG YEN PAN-VIETNAMESE

7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town. HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066

hogsbreathcafe.com.vn

Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000. ELBOW ROOM

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786

ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com

The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town.

AMERICAN

52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327

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HCMC On The Town

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931

Alfrescosgroup.com

Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks. KABIN

LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

CANTONESE

LION CITY

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

SINGAPOREAN

Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

marriott.com

KOH THAI

45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371

lioncityrestaurant.com

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

LOVEAT

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

MEDITERRANEAN

KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT

29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727

loveat.vn

Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere.

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot! L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team. LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN

48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882

lacuisine.com.vn

This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

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LU BU

Set over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful rustic décor is matched by a darkwood, aircon interior. Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence. Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour. MARKET 39 INTERNATIONAL BUFFET

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

luburestaurant.com

Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace.

MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

may.restaurant19@gmail. com

Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multifloored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478

info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.

LUONG SON

MOGAMBO

PAN-VIETNAMESE

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests.

50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311

MAD HOUSE

MONSOON

CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN

6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009

facebook.com/madsaigon

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE

136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996

namgiao.com

If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent. NINETEEN

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN

97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371

a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

mogambo@saigonnet.vn

The longest running expat bar in town, these days Mogambo is more a restaurant than a drinking haunt thanks to its Cajun-inspired, American cuisine; Tex-Mex, excellent burgers, US-style soups and salads. Still furbished as it was 20 years ago.

1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality.

PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION

8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838

pizza4ps.com

This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints. QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE

8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES

18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late. PACHARAN

QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500

facebook.com/quanutut

It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

SPANISH / EUROPEAN

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish. PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN

87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282

pendolasco.vn

Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2.

REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509

therefinerysaigon.com

A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains. RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR

44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 01207 214294

facebook.com/relishandsons

Some have described them as glamburgers, we describe them as creative burgers done well in a contemporary atmosphere. That is certainly the gloss you’ll find at Relish & Sons, along with funky draught beer options, cool refreshing cocktails and a range

of all things burger. Their cheesy fries are to die for.

a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN

Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798

SAFFRON

skewers-restaurant.com

Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

PAN-MEDITERRANEAN

SHRI

51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

SAIGON CAFÉ

23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET

Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch. SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN

Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513

sanfulou.com

Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further. SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN

33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297

seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining. SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE

Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221

shangpalace.com.vn

Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and

SORAE

River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list. THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE

144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533

facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe

Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout. TIN NGHIA VEGAN

9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689

soraesushi.com

Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen. TAMAGO PAN-JAPANESE

39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634

tamagoresto@gmail.com

Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244

Templeclub.com.vn

Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices. THE DECK MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632

thedecksaigon.com

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space. WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097

wrap-roll.com

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

Set on the banks of Saigon

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 185

A WORLD

ELITIST PHILANTHROPY

love bandwagons. It appears the objective of making a difference in the world is not just well, making a difference in someone’s life, now it’s about making the greatest difference. That’s right. Pah to those one-on-one coaching sessions with a kid trying to learn a sport or mentoring an impoverished wheelchair user trying to find a job, or sponsoring the school fees of an ethnic minority girl. Fi to all those afternoons you’ve spent helping the desperately sick or lonely in a hospital or your monthly debit to an environmental group. You’re not making a difference — not an iota — because it’s not the greatest difference. It’s just a little difference. Likely you haven’t asked what the expected utility gained is, per dollar spent, multiplied by the probability that something will be achieved. You’ve clearly not included human or time resources, let alone weighed factors like tractability, scale and x-risk . Uhm, you’re just not an effective altruist.

philanthropy sector. He founded two nonprofits — 80,000 Hours and Giving What We Can — and has publicly pledged to give away most of his income over his lifetime. Our philosopher has an economist’s heart by advocating for marginal value, utilitarianism and (er, some) ‘systemic change’ by supporting policy reform for international trade and immigration. This makes MacAskill a rising star in the charity sector as he says (borrowing a 40-year-old argument) that we have an ethical obligation to ensure that our donations are used in the most effective way possible. Donate to your kid’s drama class or buy malaria nets? Well, MacAskill wants to know where the impact is. How many people did you actually save? But solely numbercrunching prerequisites along the lines of bang-for-your-buck development fail to link

Making an Impact William MacAskill, a philosophy lecturer at Oxford, and author of Doing Good Better: Effective Altruism and a Radical New Way to Make a Difference, says we need empirical research — and lots of it — in order to know where to plunk down our charitable donation (or time) in order to make a real impact. Otherwise it’s just wasted effort and money. MacAskill is no slouch in the

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things like social relations, the undemocratic nature inherent in giving and political access

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

to the resources being handed out. Without MacAskill’s measured criticism of capitalism and global inequality, what fails to be acknowledged are the structural oppressions of poverty, gender inequality, environmental degradation and corruption, and the institutions that prefer to keep it that way. We are merely maintaining capital’s status quo.

Micro vs. Macro I agree you have to do your non-profit homework beforehand, but I don’t think complex mathematical formulas are always required for helping people and yes, making a difference. This column could be considered a few things, but maudlin it’s not. However, I like a good parable as much as the next person. I’ll paraphrase: A girl walks along a beach picking up sand-stranded starfish and throwing them back into the tide. An old woman approaches and asks, “Do you really think you’re making any difference?” The girl picks up yet another starfish and as she throws it back into the sea says, “Well, it makes a difference to this one!” And my money’s on that kid growing up and eventually determining — and possibly preventing — the systemic reasons why the starfish were all washing up on the beach in the first place. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth

HCMC On The Town

ZEUS

BANH TAM BI TO CHAU

GREEK / KEBAB

BANH TAM

164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too.

271 Nguyen Trai, Q1

ZOOM CAFÉ

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917

Namsonsteak.com

BUN CHA HA NOI BUN CHA

26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897

vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom

This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

M M M STREET FOOD BA GHIEN

CHI THONG BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI

195 Co Giang, Q1 COM GA XOI MO SU SU VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN

55 Tu Xuong, Q3 COM TAM 40A COM TAM

40A Quoc Huong, Q2 MI QUANG MY SON MI QUANG

38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1

COM TAM

84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan BA NAM

NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE

189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1

BO KHO

Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10

PHO DAU PHO BO

BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA

BANH CUON HAI NAM BANH CUON

11A Cao Thang, Q3

260C Pasteur, Q3 PHO LE PHO BO

BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU

413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5

BANH KHOT

PHO PHU GIA

102 Cao Thang, Q3

PHO BO

BANH MI HONG HOA

146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

PHO PHU VUONG

62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1

PHO BO

BANH MI HUYNH HOA

339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh

‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI

SUSHI KO

26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1

STREET SUSHI

BANH MI SAU MINH

122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

THE LUNCH LADY

170 Vo Van Tan, Q3

DAILY CHANGING DISHES

BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE

107 Truong Dinh, Q3

67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

23 Hoang Sa, Q1

Word has teamed up with the Mai Nha Children Foundation to help 20 orphan children to grow up as a family and prepare for their future. Based north of Mui Ne in Central Vietnam, the foundation provides the children with a home, a family and an education. To help fund this programme, for every copy of our Word you get delivered direct to your door, we will donate VND50,000 to Mai Nha. At VND120,000 per month (minimum of six months), this is a small price to pay to help those in need. To arrange your home delivery, simply email trang@wordvietnam.com For more information on Mai Nha, click on mai-nha.org

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 187

BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1

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Ngo Van Nam B5 Nguyen Bieu E2 Nguyen Binh Khiem A4, B5 Nguyen Cong Tru C4, C5, D4 Nguyen Cu Trinh D2, D3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu A4, B4, C2, C3, D1 Nguyen Dinh Chinh A1 Nguyen Du B4, C3 Nguyen Gia Thieu B3 Nguyen Hue C4, C5 Nguyen Huu Canh B5 Nguyen Huu Cau A3 Nguyen Huy Tu A4 Nguyen Khac Nhu D3 Nguyen Khoai E3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5 Nguyen Phi Khanh A3 Nguyen Sieu B5, C4, C5 Nguyen Son Ha C2 Nguyen Tat Thanh D5 Nguyen Thai Binh C4, D4 Nguyen Thai Hoc C3, D3 Nguyen Thi Dieu C2, C3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thien Thuat C1 Nguyen Thong B1, B2 Nguyen Thuong Hien C2 Nguyen Trai C3, D2, E1 Nguyen Trung Truc C4 Nguyen Truong To D5 Nguyen Van Cu D2, E2 Nguyen Van Lac A5 Nguyen Van Mai A2 Nguyen Van Nguyen A2 Nguyen Van Thu A4, B3, B4 Nguyen Van Troi A1 Pasteur B3, B4 Pasteur C4 Pham Hong Thai C3 Pham Ngoc Thach B3 Pham Ngu Lao C3, D3 Pham Viet Chanh D2

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Saigon South 4km

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 189

Ch ieu

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Gia Dinh Hospital 1.5km

The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

10 Questions Americans Ask About Vietnam Jesse Meadows has gone home to the US for a vacation. Here are what friends, family and acquaintances are asking about her adopted home

s I write this, I am home for the holidays in Florida, America’s land of golf courses and retirees. It’s the first time I’ve been home to see my family and friends since I left over a year ago, and they understandably have questions. “My little world traveller!” they say, patting me on the

head. “What are you doing in Thailand?!” Some questions are smarter than others. I do my best to contain my eye-rolling and attempt to patiently explain the realities of my life in Hanoi, a place that is hard for most Americans to imagine. And so, after a month of answering the same clueless queries, I’ve compiled my favourites.

eak Do you spese? m a Vietn I managed to

tely ht reply, Yes, I mig uage with a comple g ue in n g n la to al e n iv to learn a om my nat uent. (I did fr re u ct fl ru different st and am now totally ed this, but ths anag eight mon h guy once who m kind of ttis with that meet a Sco of us aren’t gifted llowed fo ly ty usual the majori l.) This question is hich I w ate?” to skil communic pantomime linguistic u o y o d ow of by “But h repertoire and y regular Translate, le g o explain m o G h a it st w ju ed is in g b com , everythin . es y , at th g admit challengin little more

190 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Do you have a cell phone?

I do have a ce ll phone, and it’s 10 tim es cheaper and easier than it ever was in the States, where you ar e contractually obligated to pa y US$70 a mon th for your life. I muc two years of h rather prefer buying my sim the off a lady in the street, even if the relentless text message ads make me feel like I have friends who want to talk to me when re ally, it’s just Mobifone tryi ng to sell me data pack ages.

Are there ? bathrooms

of the rl came out Usually. A gi in my hometown, a bar at the toilet bathroom at rming me th ve to use fo in lly ha regretfu ld ou out and I w ons of paper was ghed as visi u la I . d ea st rner in co s e el th w to in paper and drains nd se ou or gr w e . Can’t be holes in th ugh my head rocks ro of th ile d p he a as fl pee on me I had to time, we than that ti most of the t u B . se ou ts. Just ile to in an outh rn r old Weste . er ap p have regula ush that don’t ever fl

Do you have ele You kn ctricity? ow, s

ometim get the es I back h feeling my f ome p icture riends in a ba me m of a ric boo hut in th living e field , ridin e middle to wor ga killing k and, I don buffalo ’t know a chick en , hands for din with my ba re ne there a re plac r. And whil e es where I could in Vietnam live th of life at so if I w definit anted to, it rt ’s ely no capita t in the l city.

Is it safe?

My uncle asked me this, righ t before delving into a rant about ISIS . It’s ironic, coming from a country like America, where school shootings have bec ome the norm, and my dad shows off his gun collection at the dining room table. Sure, sometim es people get robbed, but that happens everywher e. When it comes to violent crime, nobody doe s it like the US of A. I’ll take a dark alley in Han oi over the suburbs of Florida any day.

a Do you haovyefriend? b e s e m ’s just Vietna criminate, it

is not that I d e any more No, and it’s y feeling lik jo en y tl n I go ac ex ady do whe that I don’t rl than I alre , or get gi rs te ai hi ch w y t of a gian plastic kind ny ti ze. I don’t k si ea oe br sh shopping, or tell the shop girls my It’s also . when I ian girlfriend ip when laughed at ur Amazon sh yo on be ti la to t re l ’re really wan a meaningfu er, and you to develop to the weath ’ ed pretty hard rl it gi lim rn te is sation aky Wes your conver e kind of ‘fre ll I’ m so at l th lfi e p fu ing out ho expected to I’m still hold ed Vietnamese boy stereotype. oo tt ta ll, ta a t it ss e me up, bu stumble acro want to wif ’t sn oe d who ened yet. hasn’t happ

Do you tell people you’re Canadian?

Specific to the fact that I’m American, this idea is rooted in memories of a past that Vietnam has collectively moved on from. So no, I never lie about my nationality, though I may add an “unfortunately” to the end, because I’m not particularly proud of it. This trip home, however, has upgraded my feelings about the States from “hatred” to “guilty pleasure”. Fried mac n’ cheese? America is delicious!

Do you ea dog no t w?

This q ue is lace stion d judgem with ent fro people m w eat pig ho regularly s and co don’t e ws. I at I’ve he dog (honestl ard it is y good), n and do ’t that g-mea dishe t becom s are slowly ing les s popu as mor lar, e becom and more e pets rather than p lates know, . But you diffe cultur rent es differe , nt cuisin es.

Do Americyou use an oll ars thered Other ? c

ou their o ntries gener wn cu ally us rre e called the don ncy. Ours is jokes n g, and no, th ever g et old. e

So, what’s the scene like?

The scene? You me an like, the entire country of Vietnam? Also worded: “What’s Vietnam like?” th is one tends to leave me speechless. Ho w do I explain a wh ole culture to you in 15 minutes at the ba r? To these friends , the best I can say is th at you’ll have to come and visit me. It’s been fun, Am erica, but I’m going back to Ha noi now.

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 191

The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

On Leaving When Vietnam sucks you in, you are a prisoner of one of the most distinctive countries on the planet. So what happens when you want to leave? Words by Nick Ross

’m not leaving. But I’ve been thinking about it. Not just now, but over the past 16 years, ever since I arrived in Vietnam. I never meant to stay here. It started off with a one-month visa back during the time when you had to state your port of entry and exit when arriving in Vietnam. Our port of entry was Moc Bai on the Cambodian border, and our port of departure was supposed to be Lao Cai way up in the north, but we never got there. The first night in Saigon we met a Vietnamese woman who taught English. “You’re looking for work?” she said. We nodded. “Then why are you heading up north? There’s loads of work here. English teachers get paid well.” She was right. There was loads of work. But it did take a bit of time to get the good pay that she talked about. That was something I managed to achieve by 2002. By this time, one month in Vietnam had turned into six months (enough time to earn money

192 | Word January 2016 | wordvietnam.com

to keep travelling), into a year and then into a relationship with the woman who was to become both my business partner and my wife, never the best of combinations. Not our marriage as husband and wife, but the joining of hands in a business partnership. Somehow we’ve made it through our worst patches of working together — when they were bad, they were very bad. And among all this, I lost two wedding rings, fortunately not in unfavourable circumstances. Yet all the time it was in my mind that living in Vietnam was and is temporary, though by the point we spent a day getting the pre-wedding marriage photos I knew that wherever I lived with my family, and whatever happened with my marriage, I would have a permanent connection with this country. ********** Along the way you meet all sorts of people. That’s the beauty of living overseas in a

place where people turn up looking for opportunities — your circle of acquaintances undergoes exponential growth. Mine certainly has. There are some interesting cats along the journey, the kind of people you could talk to for hours. Then there are the dull people, the bullshit artists, the no-hopers, the serial corporate workers, the dudes, the people who have reinvented themselves from the ground up, the men obsessed with Asian women, the plethora of financial advisors (the ones who cold-call need to be shot), the do-gooders and the English teachers — like I once was. Of all these people, there are always the ones who hate where they came from and are determined never to go back. They have genuinely left home. When I first got to Vietnam they were usually Brits or French. Neither would have a good word to say about their countries, although they still took advantage of the passport, the cheap international school

system (the French) and the consular services of their embassy or consulate when in need. Their vitriol for the past and their enthusiasm for the present was their way of justifying either their self-imposed or externally imposed exile. I could never quite grasp these feelings, as I never meant to leave. I’m from London, and while I have my moments, I still love the place. And that’s even after realising how strangely inefficient the financial centre of the world can be. Believe me, things in London can be very slow. Then there were the Australians and the New Zealanders. The latter had a simple reason to leave their country of birth — it’s isolated, just so far away from everything. They wanted to be a part of the world, not just of the huge but remote space inhabited by New Zealand, their Pacific Island neighbours and that place next door, Australia. Australians were different. At first they would talk about how wonderful Australia is, to which I would always have the thought, “Then why did you leave?” Recently they too have become filled with cynicism about home. No longer is it a paradise, the golden land at the end of a long, unforgiving journey to the other side of the world. While the Brits and the French are more positive these days — the economy has looked up — the Australians are negative. ********** When you’ve lived 16 years in a country you only planned to visit for a month, you

start to wonder how all this happened. What decisions did I make that caused me to live here so long? How did I never quite find a way to leave? There’s an odd parallel with that 1977 Eagles song, Hotel California. Fifteen, 10 or even five years ago you would hear it played over the sound system at least once a night in pretty much every expat bar in Vietnam. It was blasted out so much that it became nauseating. But one line always stood out for me: We are all just prisoners here, of our own device. Once you get settled in Vietnam, it becomes very difficult to leave. Those who do leave are taking a huge step, especially if they’ve got a family in tow. In my case, the settling-in came about because I never really planned — I had goals and dreams, but I never quite worked out ways to turn them into reality. So, one thing led to another and the next thing I knew I had a family and a business and a good lifestyle. It’s very difficult to leave behind. People such as myself, although an immigrant here, are not moving from poor country to rich. We come from rich countries in the first place, which means we have options. We can move to and live in virtually every country in the world. Yet leaving the ‘not-so-rich’ country is tough. I did manage it at one point — I moved to Singapore. The idea was to get permanent residency (PR) and then take my wife and kids over. It didn’t work, so I ended up back in Vietnam. That was the first time I

thought I was trapped, that I would never leave. I remember hearing Hotel California yet again one night, a song that by then I despised. I resonated with that one line; Vietnam is addictive, but being here is definitely of our own device. ********** My own challenge now comes from the city that I grew up in, the place I once called home, and the place that still tears at my heartstrings and screws with my sensibilities. London. I now have the opportunity to move back and leave Vietnam. Will I do that? Will I actually leave? Will I overcome my addiction? The answer is no. At least, whatever decision I make, never entirely. Vietnam is in my blood. It’s given me my family, my business, the majority of my adult life. How can I ever quit? What can I dislike about the place? That’s the real pull. Once you live somewhere long enough, submerge yourself in its life, its culture, its language, its food, its own unique set of problems, you can never quite leave. This is the dilemma my life has brought me to. I have two places I can never quite leave, Vietnam and the UK. It’s like another scenario sung in that most irritating of songs, Hotel California. “You can check out any time you like, But you can never leave!”

wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 193

The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY INTERNATIONAL

High-Resolution Coach With 2016 entering our horizon, Karen Hewell decided to make some changes to her life. Her solution? Hire the services of London-based life coach, Chi Phan

obody likes a New Year’s resolution. They seem great in the moment, rolling off the tongue while we sip on champagne and enjoy our latenight buzz. But the next day, after the party is over and the hangover has arrived, the resolutions we commit to year after year are the same ones we break just a few days or weeks later. Before we know it, we’re right back to where we started. So what’s the trick to staying committed? London-based life coach Chi Phan thinks it’s a matter of two things; space and accountability. “I think that commitment from another person who believes in your potential, who will be there and will push you further, that’s going to make the change,” she says. She might be right, or she might be biased. Either way, as a professional coach, she’s made a living out of keeping people accountable to the changes they want for themselves — something I got to experience first-hand. A few weeks prior, Chi and I were connected by a mutual friend. I, a bona-fide cynic, had agreed to take on the challenge of trying out this mysterious method for personal improvement over the course of an abbreviated coaching programme. Six weeks and four sessions later, and I was finally getting the chance to be the one asking the questions. A former investment banker originally from Vietnam, Chi Phan braved the rat race for six years in London — mostly for the security of a healthy income and a visa — before finally calling it quits in 2012. “After six years, it felt like I couldn’t continue,” she says over Skype. “I didn’t want to get to 30 not knowing what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.” In the ensuing emotional upheaval, Chi points to her own experience in professional coaching that drew her to the concept of coaching as a career. “It felt like a calling, so not only did it fit my skill set and my personality, it also fit with the purpose that I felt that I had in this world.” Two years and a new career path later,

nowadays Chi is busy shifting her energy away from her own life changes, and into making them a reality for her clients. The key to her success? A focus on the future and plenty of space.

Wide Open Spaces Chi describes coaching as less about dwelling on what’s happened in the past, and more about identifying changes we want to make in the future. By encouraging clients to think less about what they haven’t done well before they find themselves in coaching — and instead thinking about how events in the past can change our future actions — Chi insists that coaching isn’t about fixing anything. It’s about empowering people to gain awareness and make the change themselves. In practice, the process becomes an avant-garde collection of one-hour sessions blending visual exercises, hypothetical scenarios and even what a bystander might confuse for interpretive dance — a particularly nerve-wracking element for a cynic like myself. The goal is to free up a client’s consciousness and break down mental barriers to gain awareness about themselves and their environment. This is what Chi calls “space”, and what she says is the key to transformation. “Many of us are so constrained by social norms, our own sets of beliefs and our psychological conditioning that we can’t even dream more than what is immediately ahead of us,” she explains. “So apart from driving someone forward, coaching is more about creating space. More space to just breathe and take stock of what they really want, what they’re about, what their existence means.”

A New Breed of “Self Help” Though Chi says most of her clients will have a particular change or goal in mind before booking her for a collection of these avant-garde sessions — or what the biz calls a programme — not every client is the same. “I actually have one client who wanted to have a programme with me not because

there was anything in particular she wanted, but because she was curious about who she was. “She loves the conversations that we have, because from there she sees her problems differently, and sees herself differently.” When it comes to coaching — or co-active coaching as she is formally trained — this kind of blurred line seems to be par for the course. Rather than seeing themselves as mentors or guides, co-active coaches “begin by holding the coachee as naturally creative, resourceful and whole, and completely capable of finding their own answers to whatever challenges they face”. For some, the concept seems a bit farfetched. For others, it’s a welcome adaptation from the kind of self-help we’re so accustomed to finding in boldly-titled books or on overly-optimistic blogs. No matter which side of the fence you’re on, there’s no denying that the concept of coaching is on the rise. According to the National Post, coaching is the second fastest growing industry in the world, not to mention one of the business sector’s newest HR buzzwords. For me, it was a wholly foreign but surprisingly enlightening departure from the usual fester-and-pout coping mechanisms I’d employed in the past. Though not every exercise I experienced was a guaranteed transformational hit, I was surprised just how many times I’d come out of an hour feeling better than I did going in. But the question remains — is it a passing fad or a proven method for finally following through on the New Year’s resolutions we make every year? For Chi, that’s not a question she thinks you’ll be answering right away. “Transformation doesn’t happen in a session, or even in five sessions,” she says. “It happens in the long term.” Who knows? Maybe a little bit of time, patience and space is all you need to make 2016 the year you finally do those things you promised at midnight. Find more information about Chi Phan at TLC Choice Coaching by visiting her website: tlcchoicecoaching.com

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The Final Say

Ten 10 This month, the Word sat down with Erwin Schweisshelm, resident director of Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung (FES) Vietnam. Celebrating 25 years of operation in Vietnam, FES is a German non-profit organisation committed to the ideas and values of social democracy. Photo by Trung Del The Friedrich Ebert Foundation (FES) was founded in 1925 after the death of Friedrich Ebert, the first democratically-elected president of Germany. How closely does the FES of today follow the principles established then? All political institutions have to adapt to changing conditions, and we have done that in our global work and here in Vietnam. The basic values and objectives have remained the same since the times of Friedrich Ebert. Our aims are to provide political education, since Ebert was convinced that only if you understand democracy would you be able to defend it. Also, to provide scholarships to gifted students from workers’ families. When Ebert took office as president in 1918, the impact of World War I was visible everywhere. Therefore, international cooperation became the third pillar of FES. These three principles still govern our work today.

FES first set up in Vietnam in 1990. What was the reason for the establishment of the FES office in Hanoi? How easy or difficult has it been? FES is affiliated to the Social-Democratic Party of Germany (SPD). Former Chancellor and Nobel Peace Award bearer Willy Brandt in 1973 declared that West Germany should support reconstruction in Vietnam once the American War ended. From the 1980s onward, the FES established contact with different organisations. These contacts intensified from 1986 onward when the government started the reform process known as doi moi. Consequently, we were among the first international organisations permitted to establish an office in Hanoi. Our main objective was to support the process of economic, social and political reform. Since FES is a value-based political, non-governmental organisation, and the political systems in Vietnam and Germany are different, it was not always easy. But since we understand ourselves as dialogue partners and not missionaries, there have never been really serious problems.

What key successes have you had in Vietnam? Unlike technical programmes, it’s difficult to measure the impact of political consultancy. In the early years, when few organisations

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were willing to work in Vietnam, we could make many contributions to support the process of changing the economic system in Vietnam from central planning to a market economy. We were able to support the gradual development of labour and social security laws that supported social stabilisation.

How much work have you done in Vietnam on promoting sustainability? For two years, our sustainability programme, led by deputy resident director Dr. Sonja Schirmbeck, has been working on green growth and climate change. Vietnam is not only among the countries most affected by climate change, but it also suffers from environmental problems typical for industrializing countries. FES Vietnam supports efforts to change the Vietnamese growth model from predominately “brown growth” to “green growth” in cooperation with partners from CSOs, trade unions and the media.

One issue of foreigners coming into countries such as Vietnam is that they often “tell them what to do”. This rarely works. What approaches has FES used to help spread your concepts and thus aid the development of Vietnam? You are right; this “development worker syndrome”, as I would call it, is a real issue. As I mentioned, we consider ourselves not as missionaries but as political dialogue partners. We do not hide that our values are different from those in Vietnam and we express our views, but we clearly know that each society will and must find its own way.

You’re celebrating your 25th anniversary of working in

Vietnam this year. What are your hopes for the next 10 years? Well, my hope is that Vietnam will continue its development as a respected partner and reliable friend in the international community, as it is doing now. The process of international integration is tremendous and I think it will go on. So basically I hope that Vietnam will continue to follow its way of pragmatic and gradual but steady reforms and opening steps, as it has done over the past 25 years. To learn more, visit fesvietnam.org

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