Word Vietnam July 2014

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

NHÀ XUẤT NH NHÀ XU UẤT ẤT BẢN BẢN ẢN L LAO AO ĐỘNG ĐỘN ỘNG ỘNG

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VIETNAM EDITION JULY 2014

contents

wordvietnam.com

JULY 2014

054

106

088

THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / The Summer Break

050 / Hanoi’s Forgotten Museums

Business gets put on hold

Lesser-known tributes to the past

011 / The Big Five

054 / The Jungle Book

Events to look out for this month

BRIEFINGS

082 / Pest Control

012 / In the Ring

The animals we don’t want to save

Taking the fight to Bangkok

022 / Songs, Surf and Whisky Slaps Finding inspiration on vacation

024 / Charity of the Month Allambie Orphanage makes lives possible

Our cover story this month is for the birds

ARTS 086 / Saving Face The writing on the wall

088 / The Hong Kong Connection The global art market by way of HK

LEISURE 092 / Taking the Bait

022

Taking stock of Saigon’s fishing ponds

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096 / The Insider’s Guide to Thu Duc A beautiful world on the HCMC outskirts

100 / In Search of Meaning (on a Mountain) The physical imperative

EAT & DRINK 104 / Hanoi’s Best Ice Cream When Cornettos just won’t cut it

106 / Oh, This is Ladies’ Night Our long-awaited exposé

112 / Mystery Diner Hanoi Middle East, served better than middling

113 / Street Snacker Hanoi On the menu: pho ga tron

114 / Mystery Diner HCMC The other May Restaurant

contents

124

192

132

138 / Coffee Cup

FASHION 116 / A Touch of Trouble

140 / Recalling Hanoi

Showing their true colours

143 / Hanoi Promos

122 / The Fashion Designer Ha Truong is on the Vietnamese vanguard

TRAVEL 124 / In Thailand with Holga

HCMC 032 / Overscene

Bending light in the land of smiles

034 / Calendar

130 / Destination Zero On the other side of the Saigon River

155 / HCMC City Guide

132 / Photography Tips Etienne lets us in on his thought process

135 / Travel Promos HANOI 042 / Overscene 044 / Calendar 136 / Hanoi City Guide

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146 / Top Eats

164 / Coffee Cup 168 / Top Eats 170 / Non-Famous Places

174 / Food Promos COLUMNS 148 / The Alchemist

150 / The Therapist 152 / Medical Buff 154 / Book Buff 158 / Business Buff 160 / Body and Temple 172 / A World of Good 182 / Student Eye 184 / Tieng Viet FINAL SAY 188 / Breaking Up Bad An open letter to women

190 / On Transience And the band didn’t play on

192 / The Last Call Pam O’Reilly is helping save lives in Ho Tram

CONTRIBUTORS This month we asked Word contributors, are you a cat or dog person?

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EDITORIAL

DAVID HARRIS Staff Photographer Cat Person At home in South Africa I was definitely a dog person. Then I found a kitten in Phnom Penh, Mowgli, and he is my constant companion in Hanoi.

He is also a Ninja and the King of Cool. So I would say I am a cat person for now.

KAREN HEWELL Online Editor Cat Person A year ago I was a dog person, and ONLY a dog person. But thanks to my girlfriend arriving home with a stray kitten that looked like a feline Vladimir Putin, I have become a cat person. Begrudgingly.

JULIE VOLA Contributing Photographer Cat Person I am a cat lady. I have had cats all my life, and can’t live without one. At home we currently have six kittens.

HOA LE Staff Editor Dog Person I’m definitely a dog. First, because I was born in the year of the dog. Second, I hate eating dog meat. And third, I think I am quite loyal.

ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor Cat Person To borrow a phrase from Marc Maron, I’m a ‘cat guy’. I’ve had cats my whole life, and I think I understand them. I think they’re on my level. We have fun.

These are my favourite cat nicknames: ‘Buddy Boy’, ‘Sir Slam’, ‘The Town Crier’, ‘The Pilgrim’, ‘Butterball’, ‘Panda Puss’, ‘Bumblebee’

NICK ROSS

NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor ed@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

HOA LE Staff Editor hoale@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

KAREN HEWELL News & Online Editor karen@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

DAVID HARRIS Staff Photographer david@wordvietnam.com

MARK ALLAN Website & Graphic Designer mark@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Marketing vy@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

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DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com

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SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Margaret Smith, Aimee Millwood, Seamus Butler, Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Cristina Nualart, Katie Jacobs, David Mann, Lys Bui, Tim Doling, Dr. Brian McNaull, Family Medical Practice, Etienne Bossot, Teresa Welleans, Julie Vola, Kathryn Cardenas, Carrie Binder, Florence Bacin, Daniel Jenkins, Nguyen Le, Vietclimb, Nguyen Long, Harry Hodge, Amanda Saxton, Lucy Sexton, Minh Thi, Henry Ginsberg, Andy Crompton, Glen Riley, Emma Roy-Williams, Tae Jun Park, Esther Nguyen, ENV and WAR

Chief Editor Dog Person I grew up with an amazing cat. His name was Pinchas, after the famous violinist Pinchas Zukerman. He was a ginger tom and a real fighter, but when he was eight, he broke his pelvis. We had him spayed and he was never the same. For me, no other cat will ever match up to him. So now I like dogs so I don’t have to compare.

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In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy 3 năm 2014.

The prelude out just how much more there is to do to make a difference to our future here.

We learned about the vulnerable and miraculous populations of primates here, three of which make The World’s 25 Most Endangered Primates list. We studied World Wildlife Fund reports, which every few years turned up dozens of previously unclassified species endemic to Vietnam. We dug into the comments sections of posts about the reappearance of the saola and disappearance of the Javan rhino, gauging the wonder and compassion of

those who live here in the process. We learned about the heroes of the preservation movement, who have given their lives to protect those who can’t protect themselves.

One of our editors asked the question which was on most of our minds — “In the future, will our offspring be able to see any of these beautiful creatures in the wild?”

What kind of future are we creating for ourselves and our planet’s co-inhabitants?

Few things bring such a visceral reaction as the mistreatment of animals. They’re humanity writ small

— dependent on us, a mirror of our kindness and cruelty.

We’re witnessing a beautiful moment here in Vietnam — a moment of new understanding, a moment where so much hangs in the balance. In the middle of dire predictions about the future are acts of heroism on an individual level, families taking in hurt and abandoned animals, former hunters guarding the habitats of those they once stalked. And these acts are paying off, in the everyday miracles we see every time we look outside. — Ed Weinberg, Deputy Editor

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION JULY 2014

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W

hen we were approached by our partner charity Animal Rescue and Care (ARC) for help two months ago, it got us thinking about our values. Most of us are animal lovers — at least one of us actually put his family’s cats on a coat of arms he had to put together for some silly middle school project. There had to be more we could do.

This past month, we were a sponsor of ARC’s annual fundraiser. We felt pretty good about that. And then we started digging into this cover story and found

NHÀ HÀ XUẤT ẤT BẢN BẢ LAO LA AO ĐỘNG A

THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Photo by Glen Riley

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H2H Bike Ride

The Marguerite Garden Bay Word would like to apologise for not including an image of Marguerite Garden Bay in last month’s article on Halong Bay (Boating on the Bay, page 76).

The owners of the four-star vessel kindly took us out for two days on the bay, which enabled us to write this article.

While the boat was properly represented in writing, it was missed out in images.

Below is an image of the Marguerite Garden Bay. For more info on the cruiser, go to tonkincruise.com.

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Dear Editor, We are writing to you as six of the 16 riders who completed the cycle from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City in April of this year. First we would like to thank you for your article in the June edition of Word Vietnam (page 102). However, we are disappointed with the portrayal of the ride and we feel we have been misrepresented. It didn’t show what we’d accomplished, and for what amazing cause.

We think the angle you took, thighs, was a great idea but it left out some very important aspects of what the ride is. The story of the 16 of us who finished

the 2,100 kilometres got skipped over, the sore bums, the achey knees, the numb, tingling fingers.

There was no mention of the seven days where we cycled well over 100 kilometres up mountains with ascents of over 1,000 metres in a single day; the 12-hour days riding through midday heat, pouring with sweat, only to wake up and do it again the next day.

You’ve left us out of our own story, a story which started with our desire to support five Vietnamese children’s charities, something which became a mere footnote in your article.

The ride has also been portrayed in an oddly negative light with dangerous roads and gruesome accidents, an unappealing image for any readers and prospective future riders with no previous knowledge of the real purpose and cause behind the ride.

16 of us rode bicycles the length of the country.

Yes, our thighs changed, but more than that it was an experience that changed us all in ways that go far beyond our leg measurements. — Caitlin Boylan, Luke Chesters, Helen Mackenzie, Jacqueline Tan, Christopher Thai, Daniel Walsh

Photo by: Staffan Scherz

the talk

The Summer Break S Business gets put on hold

chool’s out and summer is in full swing. In Saigon the rains are playing havoc with the traffic and blocking up the drains. In Hanoi the city is covered in sweat — move and you

get wet.

Until 10 years ago, summers in Vietnam were no different to other times of the year. Except for expats, who used the warmer months to fly long-haul to their native climes, most other people in this country stayed in place. They didn’t have the disposable income to leave town or go on vacation — business ambled on as normal.

But fast forward to 2014 and for day-to-day commerce in the country’s economic heartlands, summers see everything slowing down. The rise in domestic tourism has been a goldmine for the resorts along the Central Vietnam coast or for the tourist spots in the north. As the arrival of foreign tourists slows, so June, July and early August sees them replaced by local travellers, all searching for that annual break.

But go back to Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, and life is quiet. So quiet in fact, that it’s a cause for concern.

“We had almost no customers last night,” says one well-known, Saigon-based restaurateur, who himself is using the lull to take a Mediterranean break in southern Europe. “And last night was a Friday. Today our terrace is fully booked for a do. But it’s just so unpredictable right now.”

A Hanoi counterpart echoes his words. “We’ve decreased our budget for the summer,” he explains, “although we’re performing better than we thought. But we’re still not busy.”

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And it’s not just restaurants that experience this slowdown. Speak to business owners in other industries, and they too will tell you how quiet it is.

Losing Momentum

That the major cities in Vietnam seem to shut down for the summer is indicative of a problem experienced by the wider business community. Tet means that February is slow. March sees business pick up again, and by April it’s gathering speed. But almost as soon as momentum has returned, we hit summer — half of June, July and the start of August become write-offs.

With summer over the country goes back into full gear. But as January approaches, once again there is a lull. Business in Vietnam is crammed into a nine-month period.

There is a lot of good to this. As agreed by the EU, life shouldn’t be all about work. In the case of Europe they have created short working weeks — workers now only hit the 35-hour mark. In Vietnam, however, standard working weeks are 48 hours, with many workers not even being able to take off Saturdays. Fortunately this is compensated for by the summer holidays and of course, Tet, where workers get mandatory leave that doesn’t interfere with their vacation allowance.

But it does mean that business in Vietnam tends to stop and start, stutter and pause for breath. And it does mean that it’s difficult to gain momentum.

When times are good and the economy is booming, losing three months a year to holiday periods is not an issue. But when everyone is waiting for a pick-me-up, for many it’s a disaster. — Nick Ross

1.

the big five RUN, HANOI, RUN! The Spanish festival of San Fermin might be a ten-day religious holiday that follows time-honoured traditions of medieval kings and plenty of spiritual ceremonies, but for most of us, San Fermin means its time for thrill-seekers the world over to gather for one thing — the running of the bulls.

And in an effort to bring a little bit of Spanish ‘tradition’ to the capital — if, by tradition, you mean death wish — The Hanoi Bicycle Collective’s Spanish Tapas Bar is bringing it to the streets of West Lake.

Hanoi’s own running of the bulls kicks off from Quang An Ward near Xuan Dieu on Jul. 6 from 12 noon. Will there be real bulls?

You’ll have to lace up your running shoes and muster your courage to find out.

The Hanoi Bicycle Collective’s Spanish Tapas Bar, located at 44, Alley 31, Xuan Dieu, hosts Hanoi’s first San Fermin Running of the Bulls.

For more information on specific locations, email hanoibicycle@gmail.com

2.

KILL THE FLOOR

On Jul. 5 and Jul. 6, world-class dance will take over Savico Megamall in Hanoi for Floor Killer, the 4th National Recreational Dance Championship. This year, the tournament features dancers and crews from Malaysia, Thailand, Singapore, Germany and Vietnam, pitting amateurs and professionals alike against each other in the metaphorical ring, swapping punches for stunts. The tournament will represent the fastest growing of hip hop dance genres — break, hip hop, locking, popping, waacking and house — and might just be most epic lineup of performances that Hanoi has ever seen.

Floor Killer comes to Savico Megamall, 7 Nguyen Van Linh, Long Bien, Hanoi on Jul. 5 and Jul. 6 from 11am to 8.30pm. This tournament is presented in collaboration with Goethe Institut. For more information, email thuha.dang@hanoi.goethe.org

4.

DJ VISA GIVES A MASTERCLASS

DJ Visa is fast becoming one of the key figures of the electronic scene in Hong Kong, playing lyrical, light and contagious dance sets, mashing up stuff from unknown and emerging artists and giving virgins of the nudisco genre a deep-end experience at his promo agency’s well-known Cliché-Parties. It’s about time Ho Chi Minh City got a taste of what else there is to hear in Asia — Jul. 5 at The Observatory, we will.

DJ Visa comes to The Observatory — cnr. Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC — on Jul. 5 at 10pm, entry VND100,000. Support by Elia and Hibiya Line. For a sneak preview, check clicherecords.com/artists/visa

3.

KOTO’S FIRST FUNDRAISING GALA

KOTO is mostly known for the good work they do — having trained over 600 at-risk and disadvantaged Vietnamese youths in vocational, English and life skills, with a 100 percent job placement rate — but the food their not-for-profit restaurants dish out is also pretty damn good. For the first fundraising gala in their 15-year history, Taste the Stories, they’re calling on all the goodwill they’ve generated to give attendees one of the best meals of their lives.

US Masterchef 2012 — and KOTO Goodwill Ambassador 2014 — Christine Ha will join the proceedings working with Executive Chef Marco Torre of Park Hyatt Saigon and Sous Chef Phuong Doan of Pots ‘n Pans, a Hanoi social enterprise restaurant managed by 2002 KOTO graduate Thao Nguyen. Ha has an exceptional story, one well-suited to KOTO’s mission — she’s not only the first blind contestant in the history of US Masterchef, she’s also its first winner, an accomplished food blogger, magazine editor and published author.

KOTO’s Taste the Stories fundraiser gala will be held at Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, HCMC, on Jul. 5, from 6pm to 10pm. There will be auctions, raffles, stories, performances and food. Tickets are VND3 million per person, and are available at KOTO Saigon Restaurant, 151A Ms Oanh Hai Ba Trung, Q3, or byy contacting Ms. om.au Luu at oanh.luu@koto.com.au

5.

WE’RE ON A BOAT!

Eclectic Aesthetic and Optimist Club’s collaboration is once again plumbing the depths of the party universe, with a daytime party on the good ship Elisa Boat coming up Jul. 5 — right before the DJ Visa set at The Observatory.

Party regulars Hibiya Line, Dan Lo, Nic Ford and a mysterious super-special international guest will be on hand to put some junk in your trunk, and the “soundabsorbing wooden Zion of a space” that should “drown out even the loudest of thunderclaps” should be your perfect antidote to the rainy day blues.

The gangway to Elisa Boat — at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC, just down the road from California Fitness — opens at 3pm on Jul. 5. Entry is VND100,000. For more info, check facebook.com/eclecticaestheticsaigon

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brief ings

In the Ring

A

Taking the fight to Bangkok

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against her professional Thai opponent — Yodsontos already had 25 pro fights under her belt — she almost punched her way to a knockout. Unfortunately it wasn’t to be and Ngan lost the bout on a close judges’ decision.

Also representing Vietnam were two expats, both who’ve only been training with the Hanoi-based gym for six months.

Finnish-born Vili Heinio knocked out his opponent, Saddam, with a knee to the chin, while French-born Bertrand Jacquier in his first pro fight eventually succumbed to Thai kickboxing veteran, Loma. Loma already had 50 fights to his name.

Team Vietfighter didn’t leave the Thai capital flying their winning colours at full mast. But that wasn’t the idea. This was a learning experience and they came away as a team, a team working together regardless of race, religion, sex or nationality. As Vietfighter founder Long Nguyen explains, “That’s what we’re all about. Working as a team.” — Nick Ross For more information on Vietfighter click on vietfighter.com

Photos provided by Viet Fighter

fter rumbling with their erstwhile counterparts in steamy Saigon, last month Hanoi-based Vietfighter decided to fly their battle-hardened martial arts fighters to barmy Bangkok.

Leading the ladies’ line was Ngan ‘The Dragon’ Nghiem who hit the Thai capital with force to star in her first professional kickboxing fight. Originally a receptionist at Vietfighter, Ngan only took up the sport three years ago. But in a short space of time she has proven herself to be an adversary worth reckoning with — as evidenced by her landslide victory over Saigonese challenger Trinh ‘The Dagger’ Thien in our April feature Rumble in the Jungle.

Here’s what reader JA had to say about Ngan: “She is everything a fighter should be. Out of the ring she is kind, generous and respectful. In the ring she is fierce, cunning and is well... just plain strong. She is 90 pounds and proves that size doesn’t matter. I should know — I have been on the receiving end of some of her strikes.”

So tough is this Vietnamese tiger that

brief ings

Speedboat Barbecue On the grounds of a holiday home in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 12, a cooking tradition gets its start. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

F

irst you put in two tablespoons of sugar, the same amount of fish sauce, then one tablespoon of lime juice, a good splash of water, salt and chilli to taste. It’s very sweet. I don’t see my tablemate putting in half the recommended sugar until too late.

We take our freshly plated red snapper and stab three symmetrical gills into each side, then rub our concoction into it. We let it absorb, and in a generous display of idiot-proofing the chef who’s been leading us through our prep throws it on the grill.

When we cut into the fish 10 minutes later it’s just about restaurant standard, sugar guilt be damned.

The nine ladies in attendance and myself have just wrapped up the pilot run of the Vietnam Cookery Center’s River Experience, in partnership with Les Rives. We’ve gotten up too early on a Thursday (earlier than people who work real jobs early!), taken a speedboat shortcut up the Saigon River to get to our destination, been offered rice-baited fishing poles — but left them

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pondside, opting for the serenity of the kidney-shaped pool instead.

At the end of all this we get certificates, and after considerable razzing from my speedier classmates, I feel like I’ve accomplished something.

New Setting, Classic Style “My idea to do it on the river is to have the tourists experience the outdoor food of the Vietnamese,” says Caroline Reichardt, managing director of the Cookery Center.

“There are many dishes that are grilled or marinated or cooked outside, and you see it a lot when you go for street food. So I want to show the tourists this type of food.

“The boat thing came along with the fact that we’re going very far, and if we go by car it would be a chore.”

Our expat-heavy group is a long way from touristy, but among us are several veterans of the Cookery Center’s classes. One attendee estimates that she’s taken 12 visitors to try the Center’s courses over the years. From the speedboat trip up the Saigon River to the

poolside relaxation at the country home of a wealthy Vietnamese businessman, there’s something that appeals to our group as well.

For Vietnam’s first cooking school, the experiential aspect is paramount. In addition to the River Experience, they’ve also partnered with Vietnam Vespa Adventures for a cooking jaunt out to Cu Chi. “And I have another reason for that,” Caroline says. “I’m the first cooking class to have opened in Vietnam. After a few years I’ve been copied, and that’s okay. There are many other cooking classes. But I always need to be one step ahead.

“By the time they can do the same thing like me, I’ll be another step ahead.”

What’s the next step? I ask.

“Aha,” Caroline says. “I’ll invite you again.” — Ed Weinberg Check out the Vietnam Cookery Center at vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com for more info on this trip or their Saigon-based cooking classes.

The River Experience costs VND2,319,000 per person — 30 percent less for kids aged four to 12 — with an extension possible afterwards to Cu Chi

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brief ings

We Are Sailing Photos provided by Sailing Club Nha Trang

This month Sailing Club Nha Trang turns 20

T

wo years ago Peter Vidotto, the co-founder of Sailing Club in Nha Trang, received a government award for his services to business.

In 1994 he opened the first beachside ‘bar’ in post-1975 Vietnam. It is an accolade that Vidotto is proud of.

“Anyone who’s worked or had a business that long in Vietnam [knows] the difficulties associated with it,” he says. “[They] would understand how wonderful it was to receive this award.”

Vidotto’s Vietnam adventure started in 1992 when he arrived as a backpacker. At the time you received a six-month tourist visa — he spent a couple of months in Nha Trang hanging out with other backpackers.

“I was introduced to a government company that had a café on the beach. It consisted of plastic chairs and tables only,” he recalls. “When we applied for a license [to make the place into something bigger], I was told you couldn’t call it a bar. Bars (in the provinces) were still considered something the American soldiers went to pre-1975.”

That, he continues, is how the name ‘Sailing Club’ was born. At the time Vidotto was only 26 and had no idea that 20 years later he would still be in Vietnam.

“We were the first place on the beach,” he continues. “There were two government cafés on the beach and a government gift shop that were super basic. 95 percent of registered companies were government. It was a very different place then.”

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Changing Times Being first in has certainly benefitted Sailing Club, especially in regards to the development that started in the late 1990s.

Just a handful of other projects have been allowed to build directly on the beach, and for a long time Sailing Club and then later Louisiane Brewhouse were the only bars and restaurants on the beachfront.

Yet similar to the experience of other businessmen who set up in the 1990s, for Vidotto the first decade running Sailing Club was tough. “But it was always fun and we had some memorable times.”

“We operated 24/7,” he continues, “with lots of sunrises and early morning swims.

Most of the old expat community from Saigon would remember the early days.

It was that long ago that we still used cassettes [to play] music.”

The change started in 2002, a period when with greater income at their disposal, Vietnamese started to travel and there was

a boom in domestic tourism.

“Overnight our client base became 50 percent locals. Since then it’s been a real melting pot, where locals, tourists and expats get together. It has a good vibe and very rarely do we have trouble. That’s saying something with 2,000-plus guests during the weekends.”

One of the longest running nightlife venues in Vietnam, Sailing Club has become a well-known port of call for people heading to Nha Trang. It has also acted as a model for other potential owners — Vidotto has made the impossible become possible.

He adds: “I can definitely claim that Nha Trang benefitted from Sailing Club. With our involvement in Louisiane Brewhouse and Sailing Club we like to think we are offering something to locals and tourists alike.” — Nick Ross Sailing celebrates two decades on Saturday Jul. 19. For more information go to sailingclubnhatrang.com

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brief ings

The Foodish Boy ravel with a purpose. Whether it’s to cycle from London to Melbourne or to volunteer with NGOs around the world, for many the days of aimless backpacking are no longer enough.

One such person who’s ditched the flip-flops and backpack in favour of an alternative travel experience is Alex Nazaruk, a 26-year-old Yorkshireman from England. An Oxford graduate, after waving goodbye to his graduation gowns, he decided to pursue his love of food and drink by joining Teapigs, an artisanal tea company based in London. “At the time they were just a small company,” says Alex, “but over the years they have grown to become one of the most recognised gourmet tea brands in the UK.” But it was the travel bug mixed with a desire to “embark on an exploration of appetite” that caused him to adopt the nom de guerre, The Foodish Boy, and travel around the world working in restaurants. “[I wasn’t] content with simply being a food tourist or eating in the best restaurants,” he explains. “I wanted to immerse myself in food, communities and culture, and learn something along the way. I guessed that the best way to achieve this would be to work a range of food jobs. What I had not anticipated was undertaking such an ambitious project.”

From Machu Picchu to Iceland The ensuing trip took Alex to 23 countries around the globe. With each placement generally lasting four to five days — allowing him enough time to have a meaningful encounter with his work colleagues — he tried to experience as wide a range of jobs as possible.

“I’ve brewed sake in rural Japan, cooked a ninecourse taster menu in Iceland, and joined a Los Angeles religious cult serving organic vegan food,” he says. “I've distilled in the town of Tequila and cooked on the OrientExpress to Machu Picchu. And I’ve even shadowed a food photographer and stylist.”

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He adds: “I’d love to have worked longer, but I have the added pressure of… planning the next jobs and writing about each experience — something made very tough when the chefs insist on taking you out and getting you blind drunk! When you have such an all-encompassing perspective on food, it makes me appreciate just how hard people work to provide the cuisine we take for granted.”

The Vietnam Experience His travels took Alex to Ho Chi Minh City, where he found himself under the tutelage of Thai Tu Tho, the French-Vietnamese restaurateur behind May Cloud.

“The chefs at May are really one of the nicest teams I had the pleasure of working with,” says Alex.

Describing them as a ‘family’ of chefs rather than a group of colleagues, according to Alex they did their utmost to make him feel like one of them despite the fact he didn’t know a word of Vietnamese.

“Throughout my time in Vietnam I was always astounded by the kindness and generosity of the Vietnamese people,” he adds. “And I really fell in love Vietnamese cuisine. The balance of flavours is unlike any other cuisine I’ve encountered — sweet, bitter, sour, salty and spice all interacting in perfect harmony. Then there is a fantastic use of texture with little touches such as fried garlic and peanuts to add crunch.”

Back to Reality Now at the end of his trip and back in London, Alex is hoping to publish a book about the experience. But this doesn’t mean he’s ditching his love of gastronomy in favour of a career in literature.

“I guess it’s back in the kitchen as a chef with the hope to one day have a place of my own,” he says. “After what I’ve experienced this past year, I’m not sure I could ever leave the kitchen.” — Nick Ross To read about Alex’s travels go to foodishboy.com

Photos provided by Alex Nazaruk

T

World travel, a farfetched idea and a grumbling stomach

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 19

brief ings

THE DANISH AMBASSADOR, JOHN NIELSEN, ON AN EARLY MORNING RUN IN HANOI. PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

The Marathon The Vietnam Mountain Marathon returns to Sapa

I

t is unusual for a marathon to have the support of the diplomatic community, let alone to have a diplomat as one of its main promoters and contenders, but such is the case with the Vietnam Mountain Marathon in Sapa.

Now in its third year and organised jointly

by Topas Ecolodge and the Danish Embassy in Vietnam, the Sep. 20 race will have four trail runs — 10km, 21km, 42km and 70km — and an expected field of around 450 runners from 40 different countries. What makes it unique is the location.

“I have completed seven marathons, most of them in Europe,” says John Nielsen, the Danish ambassador to Vietnam and Laos.

“But the Vietnam Mountain Marathon might be among the most beautiful marathon races in the world. It is one of the few places on earth that you will experience running along twisting, buffalo-beaten trails, across bamboo bridges and through small mountain villages with colourful dressed ethnic minorities in full swing with this year’s harvesting.”

A Different Challenge Posted in Vietnam for four years — his previous diplomatic assignment was in La Paz — for Nielsen running is the perfect way to counteract the stresses of a demanding job.

“It is flexible and only [requires] a pair of running shoes,” he explains.

Usually running early mornings, three to five times a week, at weekends Nielsen stretches his daily 5km to 7km to as much as 15km. However, taking part in marathons is a different task altogether.

“Running a marathon is a challenging and rewarding event as it requires a bit of discipline preparing for it,” Nielsen explains.

“But setting a goal and completing it is always a good feeling. There will be ups and downs during the run and an inner voice will sometimes tell you to slow down, however, you have to ignore it and keep going.”

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Add to that mountains, a high level of humidity and altitude, and suddenly the challenge takes on a different meaning.

“You will certainly not set a new personal best,” he says. “But mountain marathons make up for this… in terms of inspiring experiences and magnificent surroundings.”

Promoting a Cause One of the focuses of the event is to “draw attention to leading a healthy lifestyle”.

With the support of Novo Nordisk and the Vietnamese Association of Diabetes and Endocrinology (VADE), Topas and the Danish Embassy have used the marathon as a sounding board to raise awareness of diabetes in Vietnam.

“Vietnam [has one of the] highest growth rates of diabetes in the world,” says Nielsen. “More and more young people are being diagnosed. They are the future of Vietnam and therefore it is key to guide them in leading a healthier life. I hope that by being involved in this race, we can highlight improving access to medical services and treatment for people with diabetes in Vietnam.”

The marathon will also be donating US$20 (VND420,000) of the entrance fee to Sapa O’Chau, a non-profit charity organisation helping ethnic minority youths return to school and complete their basic education.

Despite the distraction of the good causes, Nielsen is still very much focused on the upcoming race.

“It is fantastic,” he says, “and to many runners, a once-in-a-lifetime experience.”

With all those carrots being dangled, how can you not get yourself involved? — Nick Ross Vietnam Mountain Marathon 2014 will be held on Sep. 20. Almost 400 runners have already signed up for the race. Registration ends on Aug. 20 or when fully booked. For more info and to sign up, visit vietnammountainmarathon.com

— Cake Decoration Supplies — Cake C Moulds and Pans — C Cocktail Materials and SSyrups

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 21

brief ings

Songs, Surf and Whisky Slaps

C

On the trail of inspiration in Batangas, Philippines.

Photos by Florence Bacin, Carrie Binder and Melinh Rozen

oins thrown in the air cause a frenzy of movement of old and young. The clink of metal on the warm tile floor decays quickly. A Pinoy priest digs his hand into a plastic bag full of pesos. His teeth are gleaming white as he smiles and watches the children slide across the tiles, grasping at the falling coins. Elderly Filipino women rush as quick as their bones will move them to get in on the youthful experience. This is a traditional Filipino house blessing.

“It’s like the Chinese. The coins are meant to bring the house riches,” says new homeowner Frank Cardenas.

As the scene unfolds, Adrian O’Connell, my bandmate in James and the Van Der Beeks, slides sunglasses off his head and over his eyes, hiding the early morning hangover. We are here for a little bit of soul searching and a whole lot of songwriting.

Adrian and I were invited to Batangas, Philippines by erstwhile Word contributor Kathryn Cardenas. Our journey began on the way from Manila’s airport to the southern island Luzon — the largest island in the Philippines. Crammed into a minivan, with guitar in tow, the landscape seems constructed of endless ridges and valleys. Stopping to stretch our legs and rub our eyes, our early morning café boasts an amazing view.

Harmonising Looking out over Taal Volcano, perched atop a valley wall, the chords of a song begin to solidify like the cooling of a pyroclastic flow. Slapping his hands on his thighs in rhythm with the strings, Adrian hums a melody,

22 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

changes it and then changes back — searching for the moment when vibration and voice harmonise. Over the next week these strands become the raw material for our new song. Like reclaimed driftwood, the sand, sea and air mould our collaboration.

With the raw material I head north to the town of San Juan where surf crests on the point, the bowl and the rocks. My creative process churns like whitewash in heavy swells — it’s disorganised to say the least.

Searching for new accommodation I stumble across artists’ hostel Flotsam and Jetsam. Housing a supportive group of writers, musicians, actors and designers, the hostel ebbs and flows with creative input.

On the third night of my stay I have a dream. I lay face up in the ocean, waves rolling under me as an autonomous surfboard prods me in the back. When I wake the poking doesn’t stop. Rolling over I find a metallic-green crassa beetle, which had been nudging my back as I slept.

This moment is a movement. When the sun rises I paddle my surfboard into the glassy ocean. Sitting on my peeling, sandy longboard I kick my legs in the water to keep it stable. I look out into the empty horizon as I think of melodies and music.

All the influences over my time in The Philippines act as photographs in a storyboard. I depart San Juan with a riff for our newly formed song Caldera, yet leave the guitar on which it was written. If you ever stop by this small surf town, look for the guitar with stickers on it. — Seamus Butler

READERSHIP SURVEY 2014 Take our readership survey and win prizes.

All people who complete surveys will have their name put into a hat. The draw will be made by Cimigo and take place at the end of August 2014. Any comments or questions, please email Vy on vy@wordvietnam.com

be HEARD! be REWARDED! Tell us what you think about Word by going to word.cimigolive.com pressfoto.com

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 23

Photos by Francis Xavier

brief ings

Charity of the Month: Allambie Orphanage

“M

y full name is Suzanne Thi Hien Hook,” says Suzanne, Allambie’s founder. “And I’m an orphan from the [American] War. “I don’t know my real parents,” she continues. “My real mother abandoned me when I was a baby. I was found by a policeman on the streets of Saigon and put straight into the nearest orphanage.”

Suzanne knows what she’s dealing with, in bringing up eight Vietnamese children given up for adoption in the Ho Chi Minh City home Allambie maintains. She knows it’s up to her to provide a home for children who’ve never known one.

In the orphanage she spent her first years in, she was in the exact same position. Due to her dark skin, it was thought that her father was a black American soldier, which put her at a disadvantage in wartime Vietnam. “We were always the last ones to get food,” she says, “the last ones to get care… We were left to rot.”

The whims of fate took Suzanne to the UK at the age of three, where she had the opportunity for a life that many in her situation would never get. “I was very lucky,” she says. “An organisation from England flew nurses out, and they specifically looked after the mixed-race children in my orphanage. When these nurses first met me, I was lying in a cot with severe malnutrition, bowed legs, a very big tummy. I didn’t have the energy to even lift my head off the pillow.

“I was one of the lucky ones that got adopted by an English family.”

Suzanne still bears the scars of her upbringing. Throughout her successful life in the UK, it’s something she’s never forgotten.

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A Turning Point After 34 years in the UK, she began to feel she was ready for a change. With her husband’s blessing, she returned to the country of her birth.

“In 2006, I decided to come back to Vietnam for the first time, just to see my country, really. And to see if there was anyone else who looked like me. So I got off the plane expecting to see loads of people with my skin tone, who looked like me — and I got off the plane and there was no one.

And I just fell in love with Vietnam.”

Suzanne came back a year later, and then again and again. She spent her time volunteering at a badly-run orphanage and found a deep connection with the kids there, a connection she’d been missing in her life.

And they found a connection with her.

One 15-year-old she’d grown especially close to couldn’t bear to see her go after a 2009 visit. “[The girl] burst into tears and said, ‘Well I’m just going to go kill myself. No one loves me, no one cares about me, I’m not going to school, the woman in the orphanage beats me. I don’t have a future.’

“The thing is, I understood her, and I understood her pain.” Suzanne has to stop here, the memory too painful. “The flight to England is 14 hours, and by the time I got off the plane I had decided I was going to go back to Vietnam.

“These children don’t need another institute,” she thought then, “they need a home. And that’s where it started.”

The Cure “I flew back four weeks later just to see her, and tell her what I was doing. And I said to

her, ‘Don’t do anything stupid because I’m coming back for you.’”

It was December of 2010 when Allambie first opened its doors. In the interim, she left her husband and sold their house in England, using the money to give Allambie its start.

“In 2009 me and my husband split up, purely because of Vietnam,” Suzanne says.

“For me, coming back to Vietnam in 2006 opened up Pandora’s Box. When you’re an orphan, and you go back to your country, and you start to look into your past and find out your history, you are opening Pandora’s Box.” And she couldn’t leave again. She’d finally found her place.

There are now eight children at Allambie — all going to school, some taking dance classes, some taking photography lessons, some practising Kung Fu. A network of people has come together to make sure these kids have all the opportunities they can handle. The children themselves have come together.

“These kids that live at Allambie all now regard each other as family,” Suzanne says.

“We eat every meal together.” The kids call her ‘Mum’.

The opportunities at Allambie extend in more ways than just the material. What Allambie does best is to instill a sense of identity in its charges, a feeling of belonging.

“When you’re an orphan,” Suzanne tells from experience, “all you want is to belong somewhere, all you want is to feel love. And when you don’t have that, it makes your life unbearable.” — Ed Weinberg To sponsor a child, volunteer your time or to donate, go to allambie.co.uk

brief ings

Photos by Julie Vola

The Anti-Café

I

An innovative café and events space opens in Hanoi

magine a café, events space, kids area, a place to hold classes, a place to work, a cards room and a games space that doesn’t charge for tea, coffee and snacks. Imagine a space that instead charges VND2,000 per minute for usage but provides games facilities, space usage, tea, coffee and snacks free of charge.

Imagine an anti-café.

“The concept of an anti-café is that it’s very social,” says Belarusian national, Tanya Pisarchuk, the brains behind Time Club, located in Hanoi’s West Lake. “It is about uniting people and getting them off their smartphones and Facebook pages. The idea is that we provide a lot of things for group entertainment — it’s a very popular concept in Eastern Europe.”

Arriving in Hanoi with her family on the back of a stint working for Carslberg

Belarus, Tanya withdrew all her savings to create her dream. Set in a multi-storey town house just behind The Sheraton, and with views over West Lake, Time Club provides group entertainment such as board games, card games, XBOX, chalk walls to express creativity and more. Tanya is also planning “creative master classes and meet ups for people with narrow and ‘strange’ hobbies.” Check out their Facebook page and you’ll see that some have already started.

In addition she is working on events like public speaking, stand-up shows, open mic nights and poetry. The idea, says Tanya, is to target two groups of people — kids and families, and people coming as groups for meet-ups.

But so unique is Time Club that she knows getting people to understand what

she’s doing will be a long process.

“The concept itself is not difficult to understand,” she explains. “But it takes time for people to agree that they get value for money. Trial [and error] will solve that problem. The customers we got in the first few weeks continued coming again and again. But there is one problem we faced — sometimes people have come here not to use our facilities but to drink beer and eat our pancakes. So they are surprised when we ask them to pay for the time. We’ve created a solution for those customers — we have now developed a separate food and drinks menu and they can use the terrace or the rooftop for breakfasts, lunch or for a couple of beers with friends.”

Give Time Club a visit by heading to House 6, Alley 1/62 Au Co, West Lake or by going to facebook.com/timeclubhanoi

Cats of the Month: ‘The Troubles’

Y

ou already know about ‘tortitude’, that temperament unique to tortoiseshell-coloured cats that makes them scamper around the house at the slightest provocation (a can being opened? the moon?), but eight-month-old sisters Nike and Rocky aren’t typical torties. They keep each other in check and egg each other on, so much so that they’ve earned the nickname ‘The Troubles’. They’re feisty little furballs with a pedigree in cuteness.

Around the Cat Ranch, they can be seen lolling their heads off the top platform of the cat tree, prowling through crinkly-paper tunnels and intently watching bouncy balls bounce.

Rocky’s name belies a gentle nature — both cats love cuddles and neither scratches or bites. They are extremely playful and curious. They jump high, chase bouncy balls and play until exhaustion. But then again, you know how torties are!

They’re active, spayed, fully vaccinated and waiting for you to take them home today. Contact arcpets@ gmail.com to make your date with kitty destiny.

Photo by Francis Xavier

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 25

Ho Chi minh city what s on

STUDIO FIVE’S THREE-DAY DEAL

THE HO TRAM OCEAN RACE May’s Le Fruit Triathlon got you used to the idea of Ho Tram as a place not just about relaxation, and now Ho Tram Water Safety and Water Safety Vietnam want to build on that momentum with a charity swim this Aug. 10. Ho Tram Beach Resort is the site of this ocean swim, with competitions in 500m ocean swimming and 500m beach running, and a 1km beach swim and 1km beach run. All proceeds go to charities training the next generation of young swimmers

— death by drowning is the biggest killer of children in Vietnam — and prizes from The Grand — Ho Tram Strip, California Fitness, Boomarang and other sponsors will be awarded to the top racers.

The Ho Tram Ocean Race is on Aug. 10 at 8am, at Ho Tram Beach Resort in Ho Tram Village. Entry to the 500m swim/500m run is VND750,000, entry to the 1km/1km is VND950,000. For more info, go to hotramoceanrace.weebly.com or see our article on page 192

Studio Five is confident they know what you need in your life. So confident are they in their expert guidance, programmes in 20 different styles and their supportive atmosphere that they want you to experience it all for three days before making any further commitment. After all, the real commitment to make is to yourself, and if you take them up on their offer then you’ve already made it.

Find out more at studio5.vn

SUMMER RENAISSANCE VinSpace has a couple options to enrich your child’s summer, mixing in art, communication and general creativity in an outstanding collage of awesomeness.

Currently ongoing is the Study English through Art series, in which kids ages six to 12 navigate artistic challenges while practising their English, and of course having fun. For those a bit younger (four to 10 is the age range), there’s Summer Art Camp, just started on Jun. 23 and going through the end of August. This concept is an art intensive, designed to expose students to different art techniques, help them explore different mediums and tap enough of their creativity to keep them from painting on your walls when they get home.

There is also a non-child-safe option — this one involving wine and knives! The July 17 Canvas & Wine workshop is focused on using knife techniques to obtain fresh and spontaneous works. At VinSpace Garage (95 Pasteur, Q1) from 6.30pm to 9pm, you’ll learn how to use a knife in the service of creation, not destruction.

For more info on any of VinSpace’s July courses, check vin-space.com

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SUMMER AT SAN ART Although it’s not the summer most of us picture, most of us don’t have the imagination of the artists on display at San Art’s (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh) Summer Galleria group exhibition, running now until Jul. 31. In it, the ideas of light, heat and transformation of San Art co-founder Dinh Q. Le’s Lotusland are surrounded by the works of Le Hoang Bich Phuong, Ngoc Nau, Nguyen Huu Tram Kha, Phan Quang, Sandrine Llouquet, Tran Xuan Anh, and Truong Cong Tung. Look forward to the days when you’ll be bitching about the heat once again.

Summer Galleria is on at San Art — 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh — until Jul. 31

PRIME MOVER Anna-Selina Kager Founder and lead shredder at Viet Shred facebook.com/vietshred An Austrian pro skater of the longboard persuasion, last year Anna and co-founder Andre Tokarczyk set about spreading the stoke through Vietnam under the banner of Viet Shred. With events and clinics in both Saigon and Mui Ne, Viet Shred is ground zero of this growing trend

Recent show I loved: Definitely the Saigon Urban Night 2014 [skateboards x breakdance x hip hop, at Q4 on May 24], which was organised by my buddy Boris, and his friend another Boris. Let’s say THE urban lifestyle and arts festival in Saigon. Loved it!

Best night out last month: Started off with three big beers for three German-speaking expats and ended as a mad pool party on our roof and two people slipping down the stairs, completely trashed.

Best meal from last month: Well, we regularly celebrate Krösus Day on Sundays (a day where you pretend to have lots of money). On those days we go to The Deck for fancy brunch and Papagayo for the best lunch in town.

Things I posted on Facebook that got the most likes: My friend’s and my article on the Visayan Longboard Trilogy 2014, one of the biggest downhill skateboard events in Southeast Asia, in the Philippines.

Funniest YouTube clip of the month: If I would have uploaded what

I just saw at Papagayo today and sent it to all my friends via Snapchat, that video would definitely be the funniest.

I wish this band would come to town: This list would be too long, but we can start with Alice Russell, Erykah Badu, Bonobo and Chet Faker.

How is the scene going?

The community is steadily growing. We have some unique personalities onboard who are supporting the growth of the skateboard scene here in Vietnam. I’m looking forward to more and more skateboard and especially longboard events in this country this and next year.

Where I go when I go out on my own: Meditating and creating peace and balance in my little longboard world in front of Saigon Outcast.

If my older-yet-still-cool Mom came to town, I would take her to: Snap Café to look for good books in their little library.

And as we both call ourselves part-time vegetarians, I would definitely bring her to Hum, my favourite veggie place in town, with this special Buddhist touch.

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 27

Ho Chi minh city what s on

National Holidays

CALL FOR ROCKERS!!

The poster for Little Rose Shelter’s — Hoa Hong Nho — summer fundraiser Saigon Rock Lottery features a punk rock Frankenstein and a pretty unique concept. The idea is to throw a bunch of musicians into a hat, draw out sensible bands from the blind-drawn results and rock out for charity! It’s so crazy it just might work.

Musicians are asked to sign up by Jul. 14 at anhduongsaigon. org, to be drafted into bands on Jul. 19 — leaving about six weeks of practise time before the Aug. 28 charity showcase at Cargo (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4). The following night, Scott & Binh’s (15 Cao Trieu Phat, Q7) will host an after party for the groups.

Little Rose Shelter is a District 7 shelter for young girls who have been victims of sexual abuse, and this fundraiser is to help them build a nice, fully-stocked library. Helping with the music side of things is non-profit student group Anh Duong, designed to get young people involved in charitable endeavours — future leaders learning the value and importance of helping those in need. It’s pretty win-win-win, so get involved and finally use your ‘devil’s music’ for good.

Musicians can register online at anhduongsaigon.org until Jul. 14. For the rest of us, the Saigon Rock Lottery show is at Cargo — 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 — on Aug. 28. Or help out anytime by clicking directly on littleroseshelter.wordpress.com

D

epending on where you’re from, July is a time for fireworks, feasts and airplane flyovers. But now you’re in Vietnam, we can all get together over a good buffet.

Check out the following options, and keep Jul. 4 and Jul. 14 open — and the following days even opener.

Hotel Equatorial hcm.equatorial.com This Jul. 4, throw those partisan politics out the window and get your buffet on, with an American-styled selection of USDA-certified beef, Boston lobster and more. Declare your independence from the tyranny of afternoon pig-outs from 6.30pm to 10pm at Chit Chat, for a downright Walmartesque VND840,000++ per person.

Sheraton Saigon APOCALAUGHS NOW If you thought that there was going to be let-up in the stand-up comedy coming to Saigon, well there is. In July the organisers are taking a breather. A well-deserved breather in fact. But on Tuesday Aug. 19 the hiatus will be over and the gagsters are returning to Cargo Bar, this time in the shape and comedic form of Nick Page (UK) and Peter Berner (AUS).

A former estate agent and the presenter of BBC TV series Escape to the Country, Nick Page got into comedy as the result of a bet — he’s still not sure he’s won. However, described alternately as “the funniest thing I've seen all year” and “a very fine man”, this acclaimed comic and Comedy Store regular has obviously got something right.

Peter Berner is also a bit of a TV hit, presenting the ABC series The Einstein Factor from 2004 to 2009. To add to this he hosts You Have Been Watching on The Comedy Channel. A regular on the Australian comedy scene since the 1990s, so accomplished is he that he’s even got a whole Wikipedia page dedicated to himself. Now that’s success, right?

Presented by Magners Irish Cider, doors for Apocalaughs Now will open at Cargo Bar at 8pm on Aug. 19. The entrance surcharge is VND250,000 and for advance table bookings, please email saigoncomedynights@gmail.com.

Apocalaughs Now is organised in conjunction with Comedy Club Asia

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sheratonsaigon.com Saigon Café doesn’t judge.

Maybe you want fried wontons on Jul. 4, maybe you want roast turkey. Maybe you

want something with some French words in the name, maybe you want some French fries. This Independence Day they’ve got it all, along with a free flow of Chandon sparkling wine, house wine, coffee and tea, all for VND1,010,000++. And they’ve got some things everyone can agree on, like cherry crumble, apple peanut butter cake and buttermilk cookies.

Or maybe you’re more the type to go for foie gras, brie and goat cheese on toast with onion confit, salmon fillet Parisienne and beef bourguignon. If so, mark down Bastille Day on Jul. 14, coming in at VND995,000++ with a free flow of house wine, coffee and tea. And finish the affair in typical French style with a dessert overdose. Crepe flambé with Grand Marnier and raspberries, opera cake slices, mocca eclairs, lemon tarts, dark and white chocolate mousse and crème brûlée await you.

SAIGON CHAMBER MUSIC 2014 Although orchestral music is suffering a 50year downturn in most of the world, young musicians in Vietnam are increasingly turning to the soothing stir of the strings and ivory. And this Aug. 2 to Aug. 9, Saigon Chamber Music 2014 aims to keep their attention, with a week of coaching, instrument-specific workshops, music talks, a faculty recital on Aug. 2 and a student concert to cap it off on Aug. 8.

Participating in the classical event of the year will be renowned Vietnameseby-way-of-UK pianist Tra Nguyen, UK cellist Zoë Martlew and concert master of the Norwegian Radio Orchestra, violinist Atle Sponberg. With 35 of the best young musicians Vietnam has to offer learning at their hands, Saigon Chamber Music 2014

promises to provide enough classical entertainment to keep you going for the rest of the year.

Events take place at the Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory — 112 Nguyen Du, Q1 — from Aug. 2 to Aug. 9, with the faculty concert on Aug. 2 and the student concert on Aug. 8. For more info check facebook.com/ saigonchambermusic, or head to ticketbox.vn to purchase tickets

MARKETING AND MEDIA FOR PROS Most of those marketing mixers are little more than an excuse to get drinks with interesting people, but M2’s new concept is a bit more ‘hands-on’. Created as a monthly forum for people in advertising, digital, marketing, media and technology to meet industry experts and each other, M2’s Jul. 2 event at Cargo will give those in the know a chance to learn more.

Speaking at the event will be Esther Nguyen, Founder and CEO of POPS Worldwide, a leading digital media company in Vietnam; John Sampson, Executive Creative Director and Managing Partner of DDB Vietnam, which has been responsible for many of Vietnam’s most successful advertising campaigns; and Kosuke Sogo, CEO of MicroAd Vietnam and COO of MicroAd SEA, offshoots of MicroAd Japan — a leading online display ads platform provider. MC’ing the proceedings will be Chris Walker, SEO Consultant extraordinaire.

Each will presenter will be speaking for 15 to 20 minutes and will then lead a Q&A. This will all be followed by a networking party.

The M2 Marketing and Media Network event will be held on Jul. 2, 6pm to 9pm at Cargo, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. Tickets to the event are VND250,000 pre-registered, VND350,000 at the door. For more info or to register go to edm. itv-asia.com/enews/july/index.htm

SAN ART SESSION 6: OPEN CALL San Art’s studio/residency programme is prepping its sixth iteration, and they’re entertaining submissions until Aug. 5 from artists in the under-35 Southeast Asian set. Fresh off Session 4 — the group exhibit from session artists Lai Dieu Ha, Le Phi Long and Nguyen Van Du, Mind, Flesh, Matter, is still on show at San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh) until

VIDEO GAMES AT SCHOOL!

Jul. 31 — this new session will give the same number of artists an art studio and living quarters for six months each, plus a VND21 million stipend for the production of artworks to be showcased in May 2015.

To find out more, go to san-art.org/education/ how-to-apply-for-san-art-lab-session-6, or email hello@san-art.org It’s Your World. Take Control.

ISHCMC’s new summer camp workshop doesn’t cover the kind of things they teach year-round. In their Innovation & Technology workshop, Everest Education aims to initiate attendees to the world learning can eventually take you to — of industries like game design, robotics and filmmaking. From Jul. 28 to Aug. 2, your child can be part of excitement they spend so much of their time transfixed by.

For registration or more info, call ISHCMC’s Admissions Office at (08) 3898 9100

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 29

Ho Chi minh city Just In TULIMULI TuliMuli — a name only a kid could love.

And that’s the idea. In this whimsical clothing line aimed at children aged two to six, quirky and comfortable clothing mixes with edginess, to supply tomorrow’s “funk explorers” with a style they’ll hopefully keep their whole lives through.

Find TuliMuli at Studio Co, 4 Le Van Mien, Q2, or on facebook.com/tulimuli

PUTTING IN WORK TO YOUR YOGA

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES The tide is turning in Ho Chi Minh City, away from the ‘khong duong, khong sua’ places to a more natural, healthy taste. And Guanabana Smoothies, with their careful sourcing and emphasis on natural, fresh ingredients, is a big part of this sea change.

Founder Luke Nguyen says, “One of the reasons I started is I became a dad, changed my lifestyle and wanted to get more into healthy living. Part of that is eating natural foods, whole foods. The other part of it that’s important to me is eating clean foods.

So one of the things that we try to do is make sure that the food’s from the right source, that the staff is well-trained in how to make everything clean.

“So that’s pretty much what we’re trying to provide for Saigon — something that’s clean, healthy and delicious.”

Guanabana Smoothies is on 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, or at facebook.com/guanabanasmoothies

WORK Saigon (267/2 Dien Bien Phu, Q3) continues its quest to get the best doers in Saigon under one roof with the launch of NU YOGA (they like their all caps). It’s a serious approach to yoga, for those focused on method and already familiar with yoga basics. Split into intermediate and advanced vinyasa, classes are limited to four students per session, stretching out in WORK Saigon’s homey District 3 villa. First session is free for new students.

To find out more, visit worksaigon.com/ yoga

THE CUBE BAR The latest of Saigon’s hip restobars, with a sleek industrial feel and a menu splashed with Vietnamese basics gone international, The Cube has made a graceful entrance to Saigon’s bar scene. The menu changes daily, and they offer free tapas with drink purchases during their Spanish-style late happy hour (6pm to 8pm). Spanish wine cocktails like Sangria, Tinto de Verano and Kalimotxo dot the menu, and there’s a bit of that good life emphasis with a regular Latin dance night (Thursdays), DJs like Pe Dro and artists like Yanneth Albornoz, Sith Zam, Dan Nguyen and Khoa Le lending their edgy imaginations to the walls and the occasional seminar.

The Cube Bar is at 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, and on facebook.com/thecubesaigon

WINE VENDING MACHINE

Photos by Esther Nguyen

Who says vending machines have to be cheap? Wine Embassy’s (13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1) new by-the-glass dispenser is more interested in the technological advantage such a format lends, serving wine directly from bottles kept fresh by inert gas preservation. And the offerings aren’t commonplace either, with last month’s selection featuring such top-notch choices as Domaine de La Romanee Conti, Echezeaux 2006 Grand, Chateau Latour 1983 and Chateau Margaux 2004.

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“The beauty of our wine by the glass is also in its portion control,” says Francois Carteau, owner of Wine Embassy. “You can choose between 4cl to discover the wine, 9cl to reach sensation or 12.5cl to succumb to the temptation. Whichever way you go for, you will be contented with the bouquet of the wine, with its complexity of aroma through the ageing process, where the wine character really comes out.”

Try Wine Embassy’s new by-the-glass system at 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1

FRIDAY NIGHT MULTITASKING

LEGENDARY JUICE As if Lotte Legend Hotel didn’t spoil you for choice enough, they’ve just added a fresh juice bar to Atrium Café’s breakfast buffet. Included in the offerings are 12 kinds of fresh fruit and vegetables, including papaya, pineapple, pomelo, watermelon, apple, strawberry, pepper, cucumber, carrot, tomato, celery and bitter melon. With an emphasis on health, they should help you recover from the 12 Bloody Marys you’ll also be drinking.

The Atrium Café is in the Lotte Legend Hotel, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1

Hair Bar is a salon with an interesting concept — no scissors in your stylist’s hand, a drink in your hand. It’s a cut-less quick stop on your way to somewhere else, with styles starting at just VND120,000. French-Vietnamese founder Sandrine Nguyen, also manager of District 2’s expert Concept Coiffure, explained the concept to the Saigon Times: “So many Vietnamese girls have fantastically beautiful long hair that is begging to be styled. While working in Vietnam I have seen that Vietnamese women love taking care of their hair without the need for a cut. They do, however, want to look fabulous.”

Hair Bar is at 68 Ngo Duc Ke, or on facebook. com/hairbarvn

LA CRESPO You don’t have to look any further than the pizza perverters operating chain restaurants to see why pizza gets a bad name amongst healthy types. At La Crespo, the pizza is different — cooked in a wood-fired brick oven, almost everything on the all important pie organic and homemade. The cheese is homemade, the Italian food authentic. The minds behind La Crespo believe that “health is wealth” — but don’t let that stand in the way of having a satisfying meal.

La Crespo is at 63 Truong Dinh, Q3

THE BEST RESIDENTIAL DEVELOPMENT IN VIETNAM La Valee de Dalat’s eight-villa project hasn’t been underway for long, but after the first bucolic villa had been built the judges at Asia Pacific Property Awards had seen enough. Naming the city’s only private residential compound — set next to Bao Dai Palace II, on a beatific piney slope — the ‘Best Residential Development in Vietnam’ was a fait accompli, and giving a five-star rating to the property was the least they could do. Now that construction on the second and third villas have started,

it’s plain to see how Asiatique Design’s master plan is coming to Dalat historysteeped fruition.

As Asiatique Design founder Aline Ho says, “We’ve done other projects that had an Indochine style to them, but with La Vallee de Dalat, it’s just ... more French. It just goes that extra step.”

La Vallee de Dalat's five remaining villas for sale range in size from 464sqm to 600sqm and start at US$1.2 million. For more info, visit valleedalat.com

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overscene ho chi minh

kris kotcher exhibition

Photos by Francis Xavier VinGallery played host to cartoonistabout-town Kris Kotcher's Frenemy freneticism

el gaucho opening

Photos by Nick Ross The best steakhouse in town got a little better on the night, as Saigon's carnivores packed out its four floors

melting pot 5

Photos by Francis Xavier Mara Calibara's first Melting Pot at the helm went off without a hitch, as the assembled artists and musicians sang in the rain and celebrated Saigon's weird wonderfulness

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.

arc fundraiser

Photos by Nick Ross Last month's 'Charity of the Month' called on the goodwill they've generated for a funky "fund-rager"

Comedy Asia

Photos by Kyle Phanroy Presented by Magners Irish Cider, the first in a new series of comedy shows at Cargo Bar brought in comics from around the region, like William Childress from Myanmar and Brian Tan from Kuala Lumpur

ginkgo concept store turned 1

Photos provided by Ginkgo Concept Store Gingko celebrated the milestone alongside some of Linda Mai Phung's wares, Fred Wissink's photography and, of course, James and the Van Der Beeks

Hcmc

july 2014 M2 MARKETING MIXER

U

se this non-vacation time to bone up on your skills and — what the heck — get some drinks in while you’re at it.

THE CUP FINALS

O

k, so your favourite team most likely won’t be in it, and the dates are more like Jul. 13 and 14 here, but these are the games that history is made of.

JUL. 2 — CARGO BAR

JUL. 12-13 — EVERYWHERE

01 Tuesday

07 Monday

DOUBLE TROUBLE. Every Tue. Buy 1 drink get 1 free all night long @ Last Call

SUMMER SALE 2014. Summer sale from 10% to 50% @ Mosaique Decoration Saigon Centre. Until Jul. 25

02 wednesday

08 Tuesday

M2 MARKETING AND MEDIA NETWORK EVENT. 6pm @ Cargo. See What’s On

EARLY BIRD SPECIAL. Everyday from 6 to 9pm buy 1 drink get 1 @ Last Call

03 thursday

09 Wednesday WORLD CUP SEMI-FINALS. 3am

04 friday

10 Thursday

AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE DAY. SPECIAL AMERICAN-STYLED BEEF BUFFET. From 6.30pm to 9pm @ Chit Chat, Hotel Equatorial FRIDAY JAMESON JAM NIGHT. 8pm every Fri. @ Saigon Outcast

LIVE JAZZ. 8pm every Thu. @ La Fenetre Soleil OPTIMIST CLUB. From 9pm every Thu. @ The Observatory

05 saturday

11 Friday 12 Saturday THE ART OF ARTICHOKES. From Jul. 12 to 18, special artichoke menu with chef Darren Watson @ Reflections, Caravelle Hotel

05 saturday

13Sunday Sunday 13

KOTO’S TASTE THE STORIES FUNDRAISER GALA. From 6pm to 10pm @ Park Hyatt Saigon (2 Lam Son, Q1). See Big 5 DJ VISA COMES TO THE OBSERVATORY. From 10pm @ The Observatory.

See Big 5 THE GANGWAY TO ELISA BOAT. From 3pm @ 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4.

See Big 5

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WORLD CUP THIRD PLACE MATCH. 3am SUNDAY-SIDE-UP. Sunday BBQ and music 3pm every Sun. @ Saigon Outcast

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordvietnam.com by no later than July 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

WINE AND KNIVES

V

inSpace’s monthly series Canvas & Wine mixes up a class-like atmosphere with some good ol’ fashioned canvas slashing, in their knife techniques workshop.

SUMMER GALLERIA

S

an Art’s summer group exhibition features some heavy hitters in Vietnamese contemporary art, trying their hands at some light beach crafting.

UNTIL JUL. 31 — SAN ART

JUL. 17 — VINSPACE GARAGE

14 monday

21 Monday 22 Tuesday 23 Wednesday

BASTILLE DAY. BASTILLE DAY CELEBRATION WITH FRENCH STYLE PARTY. @ Saigon Cafe, Sheraton Saigon. See What’s On WORLD CUP FINAL MATCH. 2am

15 Tuesday HAPPY HOUR. Tue. To Fri. from 6pm to 8pm, 50k for all cocktails and mixers @ Saigon Outcast

16 Wednesday 17 Thursday CANVAS&WINE: KNIFE TECHNIQUES. From 6.30pm @ VinSpace Garage.

See What’s On LADIES PROMOTION. Every Thu. from 6 to 9pm, Ladies in groups of 3 get a complimentary cocktail @ Last Call

18 Friday 19 Saturday

24 Thursday A TALE OF TWO CITIES BY RICHIE FAWCETT. Until Aug. 31 @ Au Parc

25 Friday 26 saturday 27 sunday 28 monday ISHCMC’S SUMMER CAMP WORKSHOP: INNOVATION & TECHNOLOGY. From Jul. 28 to Aug. 2

29 tuesday 30 wednesday

19 saturday GROUP EXHIBITION: SUMMER GALLERIA. Runs until Jul. 31 @ San Art

20 Sunday

31 thursday LAST DAY OF SAN ART’S GROUP EXHIBITION: MIND, FLESH, MATTER. @ San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh)

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 35

hanoi what s on THE CHOIR OF SUMMER Hanoi’s beloved folk songstress Le Cat Trong Ly comes to Manzi Art Space on Jul. 3 and Jul. 4, bringing with her both a captivating voice and just the right amount of star power to ring in the summer with song. Performing her own original works inspired by the Hanoi summer, the Danangborn singer-songwriter and folklore story weaver is certainly not one to miss on stage.

Le Cat Trong Ly’s Choir of Summer concerts take place on both Jul. 3 and Jul. 4, from 7.30pm at Manzi Art Space, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh. Tickets are VND500,000 and include one free drink of either water or white wine. Book tickets by emailing manzihanoi@gmail.com

CRAFTERNOON DELIGHT Spending the hot and humid Hanoi summer indoors can be no fun for kids, but sometimes, a little glue and glitter can change all of that. That’s why QSI International School of Hanoi is inviting the little ones of Hanoi to spend their afternoons getting crafty in all the best ways — and they’ll supply the makings. Their upcoming session from Aug. 4 to Aug. 8 includes daily afternoon workshops that, for US$100 (VND21,000), include all crafting supplies, drinks and fresh fruit. Kids aging five to eight years old are welcome.

QSI International School of Hanoi’s upcoming session begins Aug. 4 and continues to Aug. 8.

Daily sessions are from 2.30pm to 4.30pm at 17, Lane 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Registration is required. Contact suzettemitchell2002@yahoo. com for more information

IN CONVERSATION WITH GENIUS CULTURE ON CANVAS Manzi Art Space welcomes renowned painter Ha Manh Thang before his solo show at Thayibu Gallery in Bangkok from Jul. 18. The artist might be known for his focus on urban landscapes representing iconic buildings in Vietnam, but his new show explores new dimensions of his creative genius with daring new themes of memory, history and cultural heritage.

Catch the internationally exhibited artist before he journeys to new pastures.

Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy Ich. Ha Manh Thang’s preview show begins on Jul. 18 and continues until Aug. 4. Entry is free

Manzi Art Space welcomes Fields Medal award winning mathematician Ngo Bao Chau for a special talk on Jul. 16, but not for the reason you think. Although Dr. Chau is recognized as one of the most influential and brilliant mathematicians in the world, he also leads a double life as one of Vietnam’s most prolific bloggers. For one night only, Manzi will invite Dr. Chau to share with an audience his alter ego, all through articles on his blog.

Manzi Art Space, located at 14 Phan Huy Ich, welcomes Dr. Ngo Bao Chau on Jul. 16 at 7.30PM. The talk will be conducted in Vietnamese only, and entrance is free. Preregister by emailing manzihanoi@gmail.com before 5PM on Monday, Jul. 14

THE PAST TALKS… AGAIN Manzi Art Space continues with its newest monthly talk series When the Past Talks on Jul. 20, this time with new questions for Hanoi’s inquiring minds. For its second iteration, When The Past Talks asks the question, “are there spells and curses in Vietnam?” with a rousing commentary from local cultural researcher Tran Quang Duc. Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy Ich, and hosts The Past Talks 2 on Jul. 20 from 7.30PM. Entrance is VND50,000, and the talk will be conducted in Vietnamese only. Pre-register by emailing manzihanoi@gmail.com before 5PM on Jul. 17

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OUT AND PROUD, IN WRITTEN WORD On the heels of Hanoi’s ASEAN Pride Festival, the city features the capital’s LGBT community in a new way — with the stories of the people themselves. Splitting Your Legs, Waiting for Spring is an anthology of over 50 firsthand stories from LGBT individuals living in Vietnam, and sheds light on a little known corner of Hanoian culture through tales of life, love and struggle in the face of discrimination. The opening ceremony on Jul. 4 from 2.30pm will feature the tell-all book’s own authors, whose stories were selected from 354 entries to the Six Colour Rainbow contest early last year.

Splitting Your Legs, Waiting for Spring book launch takes place on Jul. 4 from 2.30pm at the Goethe Institute, 56 – 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh

Photo by Julie Vola

PRIME MOVER

KEEPIN’ IT CLASSY Manzi Art Space is mixing things up with Hanoi’s newest musical outfit, Hanoian Trio. Combining the talents of cellist Ha Mien and composers Luu Hoang and Kien Cuong, the classical threesome will perform pieces by Antonio Vivaldi, Johann Sebastian Bach and William Henry Squire — along with original pieces by the Trio’s own composers — in an intimate night of instrumental mastery.

Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy Ich. The Hanoian Trio performs on Jul. 25 from 8PM. Entrance is VND200,000, and since space is limited, pre-register at manzihanoi@gmail.com before 5PM to get tickets

Nguyen Dang Quang Maestro at Madake facebook.com/madakehanoi Nguyen Dang Quang’s long-running determination to have his own music and DJ bar started off with Hanoi Rock City before he moved onto a different venture, Madake. A few years on and his creation on Xuan Dieu remains one of the go-to venues in the capital.

Show I’m really excited about: Full Moon

I wish this band would come to town: Arctic

at Madake, the night with a new range of great cocktails and music provided by the best DJs in town.

Monkeys

How is the scene going? Great, people are

Best night out last month: 1990s music night at Madake. It provided great music that took me back to my high school years; fantastic flashback!

Best meal from last month: Deep-fried pork

The best secret in town is: You can buy fresh

with garlic, cinnamon, chilli and fresh herbs. A delicious dish that was made by a friend.

PIKNIC ELECTRONIK RETURNS After three years of becoming Hanoi’s favourite electronic music purveyor and weekly outdoor event, Piknic Electronik is back with new surprises on Sunday, Jul. 20. In its fourth year in the country’s capital, Piknic Electronik is continuing with its tradition of good music and good vibes, all to be enjoyed where it’s meant to be — in the summer sun. And unlike its sister events in Montreal and Barcelona, Piknic Electronik Hanoi has two new additions — Piknic Acoustik Live sessions on the first Sunday of each month, and a monthly mini-market.

The DJ line-up is yet to be posted, but with previous seasons bringing in both local acts and international names in EDM to the Piknic Electronik stage, this year promises yet another season of the best in electronic.

Piknic Electronik returns to SoftWater Gardens, 49 Road 5, An Duong, Tay Ho. For more information, keep an eye on the event page at facebook.com/groups/piknicelectronik/events

looking for better night out experiences. They want venues to offer more. This is what we are trying to do — we are trying to get more people involved, by bringing new drinks and music to the city.

prawns and clams from fishermen around West Lake.

Just wait for them to catch a new batch!

Thing I posted on Facebook that got the most likes: A photograph

Where I go when I go out on my own: I like

of me taken in Hong Kong during a Kendo tournament, where I competed against a team from the China Kendo Federation. This was my first time in an international tournament.

to go for a relaxing walk around West Lake and stop at my favourite café next to the lake, drink a lotus tea, listen to music and really enjoy my time.

If my older-yet-stillFunniest Youtube clip of cool mum came to the month: When animals town, I would take eat fast food all day! her to: Sofitel Plaza Song I can’t get out of my head: Jubel by Klingande

Hanoi, the rooftop bar where you can see the city from above.

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 37

hanoi what s on

CINEMA BUFF DATE NIGHT Manzi Art Space continues their tradition of monthly movie nights with their regular experimental film series Chieu Bong on Jul. 13, screening the awardwinning Germany film ‘The Lives of Others’. The film, which follows the life of a secret police agent in 1984 East Berlin, was awarded an Oscar for Best Foreign Film in 2006. And with Vietnamese voice-over and English subtitles for the

WE GOT CHILLS screening, perhaps it’ll win some audience awards in Hanoi, as well.

Manzi Art Space continues their experimental movie and video art screenings with The Lives of Others on Sunday, Jul. 13 from 7.30PM. Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy Ich. Tickets are VND70,000, with discounts for students, and includes one free drink. Pre-register before Jul. 11 by emailing manzihanoi@gmail.com

Rockstore isn’t so keen on the summer heat.

So, for one night only, they’re throwing caution to the wind — plus plenty of cash for electricity bills. The air conditioning will be cranked up to maximum power on Friday, Jul. 18 for Rockstore’s Ice Party, the bar’s best effort to fend off the summer heat wave. Bring your coats, since things might get a little chilly with ice-cold vodka coming from — what else? — an ice luge track just for alcohol.

Rockstore is located at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem

DEGUSTATION DINNER DOUBLE UP THE SYMPHONY OF SUMMER

TAKE BACK THE STREETS

Established in 1959, Vietnam’s National Symphony Orchestra has spent decades establishing themselves as one of the finest symphony orchestras in Southeast Asia.

Now, they’ll return to the finest address in the capital, the Hanoi Opera House, for their summer performances for two nights only, on Jul. 9 and 10. Including the Prelude from Mozart’s Opera Idomeneo, the performance will highlight the most stunning sounds in classical music in the country, and certainly shouldn’t be missed.

Vietnam’s National Symphony Orchestra performs at the Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, for two performances on Jul. 9 and 10

Inspired by the global cycling phenomenon critical mass, Hanoi’s own monthly iteration comes to the city’s streets on the final Friday of July to take back the streets, if only for one night.

Cheerfully coined “Positive Mass”, Hanoi’s own mass bike parade launches from The Hanoi Bicycle Collective on Jul. 25, alongside critical mass bike rides in HCMC, Thai Nguyen and Son La. Hanoi’s Positive Mass bike parade launches from the Hanoi Bicycle Collective, located at 29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho on Friday, Jul. 25.

For more information, visit their website at thbc.vn

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Pots ‘n Pans and KOTO are teaming up on Saturday, Jul. 12 for a night of food and live music for a good cause.

In support of KOTO — a non-profit organization providing crucial vocational training to disadvantaged youth in Vietnam — and their annual field trip for students, the one-night degustation dinner features an exclusive four-course dinner paired with wine. Enjoy dinner with an entire night of live music and raffle prizes, all for a good cause.

KOTO Field Trip Fundraising Degustation Dinner, hosted by Pots ‘n Pans, kicks off on Saturday, Jul. 12 from 6.30PM. The dinner will take place at 57 Bui Thi Xuan, and all proceeds will go toward KOTO’s training initiatives throughout the country. Get more information by visiting potsnpans.vn

Photo by Diane Brsc

MORE MOTION FOR MADAKE Back for its third installment, MoTioN is returning to Madake on Jul. 19, featuring the talents of resident MoTioN artists Bad GraFX, DJ Pandrava, DJ Maggie and DJ Fergal. The artistic performance combines live visuals and music, challenging spectators’ concept of space and sound with live-action sculpture reacting to Berlin and UK techno. So what do you get when you team up the creative energies of scenographers and musicians?

Apparently, something incredible enough to keep on the social calendar time and again.

MoTioN returns to Madake, 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho on Jul. 19

RINGING IN WEDDING SEASON

A MOVEABLE FEAST

Wedding season is upon Vietnam, and before all of those white dresses are donned and rings exchanged, Fortuna Hotel is helping soon-to-be newlyweds get ready for their big days, with Rhythm of Love Wedding Fair on Jul. 19 and Jul. 20. Everything from bridal gowns, floral design, venue decoration and photography will be under one roof — the ultimate one-stop shop that is any amateur wedding planner’s dream.

Enjoy exclusive deals on dream wedding packages and cash rebates when you book your wedding banquet on the day.

Rhythm of Love Wedding Fair comes to Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, on Jul. 19 and Jul. 20. For more information, visit facebook.com/ fortunahotelweddingfair

Pots ‘n Pans is teaming up with local travel gurus Exotic Voyage Team to put a new spin on weekend breakfast outings — by putting it on two wheels. Departing at 9AM for a two to three hour leisurely cycle around the city, hungry diners return from their journey to a full brunch prepared by Pots ‘n Pans, priced at VND200,000 per person. In case delicious food can’t rouse you out of bed, perhaps the promise of morning exercise will.

Bike ‘n Brunch, presented by Pots ‘n Pans and Exotic Voyage Team, kicks off on Saturday, Jul. 5 from 9AM. Participants are asked to meet at 8.45AM at Pots ‘n Pans, 57 Bui Thi Xuan. Registration is essential — put your name in by emailing joy@ exoticvoyages.com

ROCKSTORE IN THE RHYTHM Rockstore welcomes back Thai fusion songstress Nok ChitCha, for two nights in the month of July. Combining the sounds of rumba, samba, reggae, blues and rock-n-roll, Nok ChitCha already took Hanoi by storm at ASEAN Pride 2014. Now, she’s holding down her residency in the Old Quarter watering hole, and plays two Saturday gigs on Jul. 12 and again on Jul. 19.

Rockstore is located at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem

hanoi Just In Photos by Jonathan Gharbi

R&R GOES TO THE WATERFRONT GOLDMALT BREWERY JUMPS THE RIVER Goldmalt Brewery has already established itself as the premiere local microbrewery chain in Hanoi, with several locations open in the city and its surrounding areas. But according to Goldmalt, there’s just never enough beer to go around. In response, they have opened yet another location in the capital, this time as the first microbrewery establishment north of the Red River.

Located in a quieter corner of Long Bien, this Goldmalt location is a perfect setting for a beer before a walk through nearby parks. And in step with other Goldmalt locations, the interior pays homage to

European pub design and Goldmalt’s own tradition of posters depicting blonde German babes serving frothy pints of beer.

But alongside the brewery’s decidedly kitsch design, Goldmalt offers up a little more tradition with a selection of the world’s finest beers and classic Vietnamese eats. Enjoy an ice-cold pint with French fries, grilled ribs or stir-fried noodles for a cheaper price tag than other Goldmalt locations — beer is only VND29,000 per glass.

Goldmalt’s new Long Bien location is located at 8 Phuc Dong, Long Bien

THE RETURN OF THE PALACE Once located on Xuan Dieu with vegetarian restaurant Dakshin located on its top floor, after a hiatus India Palace has once again returned to the Tay Ho area, this time to a location bang in between Warehouse and Don’s.

Serving up a menu of mainly North Indian staples including a range of curries and of course a number of dishes out of

40 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

the tandoor oven, the multi-storey eatery also has a good selection of cuisine for vegetarians. And for those of you into going for Indian over lunch, the vegetarian thali weighs in at VND135,000 while meat options cost between VND150,000 and VND170,000.

India Palace is at 10B Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Tel: 01247 668668, email: indiapalacehn@vnn.vn

Another of the new eating and dining spots to emerge on the Tay Ho strip running from Warehouse down past Don’s, R&R has now got itself a second location, this time overlooking West Lake.

Serving up the same mix of service, smiles, tasty comfort cuisine and of course good beer as its sister location on Nghi Tam, at the time of writing R&R had yet to rebrand the Senso name sitting below its awning. But that will surely come with time.

The views, though, are there to stay. As, we hope, are deals like VND100,000 drinkall-you-can Tiger beer from 4pm to 7pm.

R&R Waterfront is at 6 Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3718 2724

THE REAL THING IN THE KITCHEN From the culinary collaboration between Australian chef Tracey Lister — owner of Hanoi Cooking Centre — and researcher and writer Andreas Pohl comes wonderful things. And from a shared love of Vietnamese people, history and above all food, these two foodies take readers on a voyage through Vietnam’s vibrant culture with their new cookbook, Real Vietnamese Cooking.

By finding creative ways to recreate local delicacies usually confined to street food stalls right to their own kitchens, Real Vietnamese Cooking is a perfect opportunity for lovers of Vietnamese cuisine to cook up their own tasty selections right at home. The cookbook also draws from Vietnam’s three culinary regions: the hearty food of the North, the imperial cuisine of the Centre, and the sweet and spicy combinations of the South. From simple dishes like pho bo to creative takes on classics like caramel fish with galangal, Real Vietnamese Cooking has a little something for every palette.

For further information on Real Vietnamese Cooking and where to get a copy, email oliviafleetwood@hardiegrant.com.au or simply pop into Hanoi Cooking Centre at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh

HAPPY FAMILY WITH LOCAL TREASURES For sustainable shoppers in Vietnam that are dedicated to making their purchases count toward the greater good, there’s good news on the horizon. Hanoi-based social enterprise Happy Family is dedicated to not only offering quality loungewear produced right here in Vietnam, but also to providing a brighter future for women in the country.

Drawing on the craftsmanship of talented local women to create beautiful, value-based luxury goods, Happy Family operates under a social enterprise framework that provides empowerment for the women they work with. Through partnerships with Vietnamese and American NGOs, the hiring and training of disadvantaged local women, and re-investment of profits toward affiliate charities, purchases at Happy Family are some that we can all feel good about.

All loungewear at Happy Family is made with traditional garment and textile designs, methods and materials, and come in a variety of styles and sizes for any customer. Happy Family also operates under the Fair Trade Federation’s principles, and counts every purchase as a step toward greater empowerment for local women.

Although the website is still under construction for the time being, you can find Happy Family online at happyfamilypjs.com

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 41

overscene hANOI

The Rafff le

Photos by Teresa Wealleans R&R and social enterprise VIP Bikes teamed up for a raffle to get you ruffled.

The winner won a fully equipped, preregistered Honda Vision. All proceeds went to support VIP

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Fright Night

Photos by Teresa Welleans The zombies, ghouls and goblins descended on Rockstore for a night of DJ Blip-Blop influenced beats and devilish fun

Time Club

Photos by Teresa Welleans A bar, cafÊ, events space, games space and kiddie area all in one, Time Club opened in Tay Ho bringing with it a unique concept — coffee and tea are free, all you do is pay for the time spent there

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.

The Last Hurrah

Photos by David Harris Indie pop soulsters Nerrys, Joss, Jez, Will, Samantha and Nathan played their last ever gig as the Say Oms to a packed house at CAMA ATK

Impermanence

Photos by Teresa Welleans The BBQ Garden Westlake became host to Impermanence, a theatre performance questioning perception, life, loss and the bountiful journey of creativity!

hanoi

july 2014 CHOIR OF SUMMER

M

anzi Art Space welcomes Hanoi’s favourite folk songstress Le Cat Trong Ly to ring in summer with — what else? — lovely song.

SYMPHONY OF SUMMER

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he nation’s own symphony orchestra is serenading the city with the sweet sounds of the classics.

JUL. 3-4 — MANZI ART SPACE

01 Tuesday

JUL. 9-10 — HANOI OPERA HOUSE

07 Monday

SUMMER HOLIDAY CRAFTERNOON. @ QSI, 2.30pm to 4.30pm. Runs until Jul. 4

02 wednesday 03 thursday OLD BOYS BLUES LIVE. @ Rockstore LE CAT TRONG LY & THE CHOIR OF SUMMER. @ Manzi, 7.30pm

04 friday BACK TO 80’S . @ Rockstore LAUNCH OF LGBT BOOK SPLITTING YOUR LEGS, WAITING FOR SPRING. @ Goethe Institut, 2.30pm to 4.30pm LE CAT TRONG LY & THE CHOIR OF SUMMER. @ Manzi, 7.30pm

05 saturday BIKE ‘N BRUNCH. @Pots ‘n Pans, 8.45 am. A two hour cycle ride followed by brunch

06 sunday sunday 06

OPENING OF PHOTO EXHIBITION, THE UNRAVELERS: ADVENTURES WITH MATHEMATICS. @ L’Espace. Runs to the end of July FLOOR KILLER, NATIONAL RECREATIONAL DANCE CHAMPIONSHIPS. @ L’Espace, 8pm

08 Tuesday EXHIBITION, THROUGH THE WINDOWS OF LIFE. @ Chula. Runs until Jul. 14

09 Wednesday VIETNAM NATIONAL SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA CONCERT, INCLUDES THE PRELUDE FROM THE OPERA, IDOMENEO. @ Hanoi Opera House.

Second performance on Jul. 10.

10 Thursday OLD BOYS BLUES LIVE. @ Rockstore

11 Friday PROGRESSIVE HOUSE #8. @ Rockstore

12 Saturday KOTO FIELD TRIP FUNDRAISING DEGUSTATION DINNER. @ Pots ‘n Pans, 6.30pm SAN FERMIN SPANISH FESTIVAL. @ THBC, 12pm OPENING OF BREEDING SEASON BY THAI NHAT MINH . @ Manzi FLOOR KILLER, NATIONAL RECREATIONAL DANCE CHAMPIONSHIPS. @ Savico Megamall, Long Bien

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13 Sunday CHIEU BONG SCREENING — THE LIVES OF OTHERS. @ Manzi, 7.30pm

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordvietnam.com by no later than July 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

PIKNIC ELECTRONIK POSITIVE MASS RETURNS

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he city’s favourite outdoor electronic weekly mini-fest is back, and better than

ever.

B

ike shorts? Check.

Helmet? Check. The global phenomenon of critical mass takes back the streets in Hanoi.

JUL. 20 — SOFTWATER

14 monday

JUL. 25 — HANOI CATHEDRAL

21 Monday 22 Tuesday 23 Wednesday

FRENCH BALL. @ Rockstore

24 Thursday

15 Tuesday

HOT CHICKS BAND. @ Rockstore

16 Wednesday YOUR OBLIVION, A TALK BY PROFESSOR BAO CHAU . @ Manzi, 7.30pm. Register at manzihanoi@gmail.com

17 Thursday OLD BOYS BLUES LIVE. @ Rockstore

18 Friday ICE PARTY (WITH A VODKA LUGE). @ Rockstore HA MANH THANG EXHIBITION PREVIEW. @ Manzi. Runs until Aug.4

19 Saturday MOTION PERFORMANCE. @ Madake, all night

20 20 Sunday Sunday

25 Friday SUMMERTIME FUNK, SOUL AND DISCO. @ Madake, all night SUMMER CLASSIC CONCERT BY THE HANOIAN TRIO. @ Manzi, 8pm.

Register at manzihanoi@gmail.com POSITIVE MASS CYCLE RIDE. @ Hanoi Cathedral, 8pm

26 saturday PINK BIKINI POOL PARTY. @ Pool and Déjà Vu Bar, Sheraton Hanoi Hotel I LOVE TECHNO WITH DJ SIZE-O. @ Rockstore

27 sunday 28 monday 29 tuesday 30 wednesday OPENING OF SUMMER EXHIBITION BY SIMON REDINGTON. @ 21 North. Runs until October

THE START OF PIKNIC ELECTRONIC. @ Softwater, 5pm to 9pm, every Sunday through to November

31 thursday

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in the papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

HOANG SA ARCHIPELAGO (VIETNAM)

OCEAN RESCUE

TRUONG SA ARCHIPELAGO (VIETNAM)

Three Vietnamese fishing vessels are being celebrated as unlikely heroes following their rescue of a Malaysian barge’s 11 stranded sailors off of Vietnam’s Truong Sa Archipelago late last month.

After particularly rough sea conditions, the Malaysian barge broke down with 131 containers and 11 souls on board. Upon finding the stranded barge at around 3pm,

two local Vietnamese fishing vessels pulled up alongside the vessel and rescued nine of the sailors.

After sending SOS signals and reporting the rescue to Nha Trang Coastal Information Station, one more Vietnamese fishing vessel responded to the call and rescued the two remaining stranded sailors.

TAPPED OUT A tracking app sold by a Hanoi-based company has been found on some 14,000 Android devices in Vietnam. The app — which is advertised to be able to help users track others’ Android phones, read their SMS messages and contact books, record phone calls and even turn on features like the camera and GPS — was sold by Thanh Xuan tech firm Viet Hong Company to customers bent on secretly hacking others’ phones.

Unknown to customers, though, all data gathered through the app is also transferred to Viet Hong Company’s own servers, permanently at the disposal of the company’s employees.

Customers are then required to pay a premium to access the stolen data on the company’s server.

Profit from sales of the app in question is approximately VND1 billion prior to intervention by the authorities.

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DESTINATION UNKNOWN VietJet Air became the laughing stock of the Vietnamese aviation industry last month after one of their aircraft landed at the wrong airport. The misinformed Czech pilot was promptly suspended after his failure to follow a new air route to Dalat, instead steering his vessel to Cam Ranh airport in Nha Trang, at which the flight mistakenly landed.

Cited as an “unprecedented event” in Vietnamese aviation history, the mistaken landing happened after a series of technical issues with the original aircraft. The flight

crew originally assigned to a flight to Cam Ranh was transferred to a flight to Dalat.

Consequently, the pilot was under the impression that he was still meant to fly to his original destination at the coastal city of Cam Ranh. Only after informing passengers that the mistaken landing was due to bad weather did VietJet Air finally admit to the error.

Following the hiccup, airport flight planners are bearing the brunt of the backlash, as they were responsible for keeping the pilot informed.

in the papers

TWINKLING ACHIEVEMENT FOR DANANG Danang’s famed Rong (Dragon) Bridge has been honoured by the International Association of Lighting Designers (IALD) for its 2014 award season.

The bridge is an iconic element over the Han River, with lighting designed by local architect Tran Van Thanh. Its whimsical design and fiery glow is meant to communicate Vietnam’s religious and

HACKERS STRIKE IN VIETNAM Anonymous hackers have launched attacks targeting the authorities, an Internet security company reported last month.

Using a phishing email technique that transfers malware via an email’s attached Microsoft Word document, the group was able to access computers belonging to the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment, despite the installation of Bach Khoa Anti-Virus systems. Once a computer is compromised, hackers can easily steal data.

No further information regarding the perpetrators or missing data has been released.

cultural identity, and has become a favourite destination for travellers to the city.

The 2014 awards included mostly the US and Europe, with Asian entries only from Vietnam, Japan and China.

Along with the IALD prize, the Rong Bridge also made it to the final round of the UK’s major FX Design Awards last year, and this year’s Lighting Design Awards.

VIETNAMESE ARCHITECT MAKES HIS MARK A Vietnamese architect’s stunning house design has recently been recognised by a renowned architecture award in England.

Entitled House of Trees, the creation of architect Vo Trong Nghia in collaboration with Japanese architects Masaaki Iwamoto and Kosuke Nishijima is being hailed as a feat of sustainable design and creativity.

The house, which features five massive concrete boxes that serve as oversized ‘pots’ for towering trees, beat out over 200 other global architectural marvels for the award.

Coming in at US$156,000 (VND3.28 billion), the design was created to showcase how green space can be utilised alongside highdensity accommodation — an important step in local architecture.

This particular design follows Nghia’s long history of creating designs that bring natural elements to buildings, including Kontum Indochine Café along the Dakbla River in the Central Highlands.

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Insider

HANOI’S FORGOTTEN MUSEUMS // THE JUNGLE BOOK // PEST CONTROL // SAVING FACE // THE HONG KONG CONNECTION // TAKING THE BAIT // THE INSIDER’S GUIDE TO THU DUC // IN SEARCH OF MEANING (ON A MOUNTAIN) // HANOI’S BEST ICE CREAMI // OH, THIS IS LADIES’ NIGHT // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // A TOUCH OF TROUBLE // THE FASHION DESIGNER // IN THAILAND WITH HOLGA // DESTINATION ZERO PHOTO BY DAVID HARRIS

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insider

HISTORY

Hanoi’s Forgotten Museums Hanoi is littered with museums, we just never hear about them all. Lucy Sexton visits three of the capital’s lesserknown tributes to the past. Photos by Julie Vola

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n Ly Thuong Kiet, sleepy morning commuters easily overlook No.67 — just another building dressed in Hanoi’s iconic yellow. For tourists wandering Hang Bac in the Old Quarter, a set of darkened wood doors serve as nothing more than a pause to an endless string of faceless storefronts.

The addresses, however, are hardly afterthoughts. Indeed, they are modest museums tucked into unremarkable corners of the city. Hanoi is littered with them.

The world’s best-known museums are that way for some obvious reasons: extensive collections, tastefully edited exhibits, compelling content, buildings

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steeped in historical sentiment, good marketing. But what about museums that no one knows about, the ones buried in tombs of stone, ivy and exhaust fumes?

Do they have treasures, too? Do they deserve a second thought, a second look? I explored those questions over several days — using social media forums and wordof-mouth, and spending hours roaming Hanoi’s far right lane.

At 2pm on a stifling Friday afternoon, I arrived at an empty No.67. A plaque with the words, bao tang (museum), encouraged entrance. I had been there a few times before. Once I arrived during an International Children’s Day party.

Another afternoon was spent Google

translating with Giang, the museum secretary, seeking police approval. The third time proved a charm.

Respect My Authority Initially I thought that the Hanoi Police Museum would reflect its obscure existence.

Peeking through pane glass doors on a previous visit, I had seen just two halls of picture frames. It surprised me that once actually inside, the museum was much larger than expected. Though not a word of English is to be found, the museum finds ways to communicate through images, wax figurines, flashing lights, air machines and uniformed mannequins. The well-kept rooms chronologically detail the police and army’s historic challenges and the heroes, and a few heroines, who rose to the occasion.

An entire wall is devoted to Nguyen Thi Loi, a rare female spy martyred in 1950 when she blew up the French D’Inville battleship via a smuggled suitcase of explosives disguised as opium. It’s hard to say what’s

more striking: celebrating the fatal event or appreciating France’s once permissive opium trade.

Built in 2008, the Police Museum houses around 1,000 documents and photographs.

The haphazardly chosen photos feel like a large family album: elders shaking hands over historic treaties, police chiefs attempting humour, officers’ newborn babies framed next to crime scenes.

“The museum was built to serve police officers and for people to come and visit,” Giang told me. “It’s a place to teach officers about the tradition of the department and also to honour their achievements.”

Though access requires police approval — we arranged this through our area manager in our office — they are open to anyone genuinely interested. If some wall hangings raise an eyebrow or two, remember, as with all families, we tend to see past our imperfections. It’s not a moment to judge, but rather a rare opportunity to glimpse how the police really see themselves. As

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“Without any bravado, Thanh talks about the museum’s stages of disrepair, cutting back on museum visits and sometimes working so hard he’d camp out in the office”

the supervised visit came to an end, I heard echoes of ping-pong rallies and the squeak of sneakers. Two retired officers and a ping-pong table filled the museum foyer.

They quickly wrapped up, stuffed their sweaty clothes in gym bags, and quietly shook hands. It was a fitting end to the often empty No.67.

A Silver Lining After the odyssey to the police museum, I wanted something more accessible. Hiding in plain sight on an overly trafficked lane in the Old Quarter, the Dinh Kim Ngan Jewellery Communal House’s long name has quite the tale behind it. Rather than play host to a collection of artefacts or oil paintings, the building’s story of birth, decline and restoration is the main attraction.

Hanoi or Thang Long — the on-and-off capital of Vietnam — has had many names.

But the city has always been defined by its mercantile character. The Dinh (communal house) emerged in the 15th century out of mercantile necessity. Serving three functions — administrative, cultural and religious

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— the Dinh sought to centralise and therefore foster the three components of a craft. The Dinh Kim Ngan on Hang Bac traded silver bullion, taught metallurgy and built a temple for the community to worship their craft’s patron spirit. It is unclear when the building was constructed, but through the years it has served all three purposes and then some — education, nursing, military training. In 2009, the building was crumbling under the weight of its history and 25 occupying families.

With the help of the city of Toulouse, France and Hanoi officials, the Dinh was carefully restored so as to once again serve its goal of fostering cultural and religious exchange.

On certain days the temple doors stay open past sunset to lure in a straggler or two with trance-inducing incense and baying musical notes. In the inner chamber, raised upon an altar like an offering to the shrine, Master Bach Van and fellow musicians sing poems of royal love and loss. Ca tru, a traditional form of sung poetry laid over three hauntingly minimalistic instruments, is just one of the ways the communal house reaches through the ages. One can even play

a few strings and chat with musicians after the performance. I resisted leaving for as long as I could, hesitant to rejoin modern Hang Bac Street whose foreign consonants, horns, and lights were unthinkable at the building’s birth. Good museums are ones that transform — Dinh Kim Ngan is no exception.

Stuffed Animals For another nostalgic step back in time, the Hanoi University of Science delivers with its 1904 French architecture. Located on the upper floor, the Zoological Museum sits above a dome of mosaic tiles flanked by dizzying two-storey tall glass doors. I’d go to just watch students hang about windowsills and daydream, but I continued up the set of stairs with the elephant skeleton looking on from above to find Vu Ngoc Thanh.

Museum curator, professor, conservationist, primatologist and an international foundation director, Thanh’s a small but industriously sturdy man whose charming smile betrays an inexhaustible intelligence.

Like all dedicated scientists, Thanh is meticulous, process-orientated and excited

by questions. He begins the tour in his office, taking the trouble to unlock the old wooden door even though the glass pane directly above the knob is missing. The room looks like it’s caught in the middle of a moment: trays of tools, folded newspapers and jars of glistening scales in formaldehyde.

Without any bravado, Thanh talks about the museum’s stages of disrepair, cutting back on museum visits and sometimes working so hard he’d camp out in the office. He’s a realist so he doesn’t beat about the bush, but there’s no soliciting here. When asked how he balances his other work with running the museum he quickly replies, “Research comes first.” In other words, the animals come first.

The tour moves on at a leisurely pace.

The other rooms are stockpiled with taxidermied bears, pickled reptiles and birds gripping perches with prehistoric claws. The specimens have either been collected by Thanh himself or gifted to the museum over the last century; they all have interesting stories to tell. I’d suggest asking Thanh about the two large penguins gifted by the Russians, or the lizard caught by the

Crown Prince of Japan who supposedly spent time in Vietnam pursuing a hobby in conservation research.

Thanh left me with some interesting thoughts about educational, cultural and law enforcement barriers to habitat and species protection in Vietnam. It’s one of the world’s most biologically diverse countries, strong environmental protections are on the books and yet 20 percent of the world’s critically endangered primate species are in Vietnam. The museum and its loving steward spoke volumes about the tension between Vietnam’s past, present and future. It’s a museum that deserves repeated visits.

In my journey to find out just what these hidden museums are all about I signed a new lease on Hanoi. The feeling of trespassing upon a memory lends a new aura to a museum’s offerings. These museums don’t serve art, culture and history on a silver platter, ready for easy consumption. They ask visitors to engage with the temporal tensions that exist within and beyond the museum walls, in the soul of the nation’s capital, be it Thang Long or Hanoi.

Information D INH K IM N GAN J EWELLERY C OMMUNAL H OUSE

42 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0913 544876 Open every day until 5pm. Free admission. Ca tru performances are on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 8pm.

The cost is VND200,000.

H ANOI Z OOLOGICAL M USEUM

No. 19 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Open by appointment only. Free admission. Contact Mr. Vu Ngoc Thanh. He can be reached by email on vnthanh@fpt.vn or on 0913 544615.

H ANOI P OLICE M USEUM

67 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Open Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, 8.30am to 11am and 1.30pm to 4pm. Free admission. Ask for Ms. Giang in person to request a visit.

Turnaround time should be just a day.

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Cover Story

Rudyard Kipling wrote The Jungle Book 120 years ago, at a time when the Indian subcontinent where he’d been raised was undergoing climactic changes. A collection of moralistic fables, culled from everything the author had ever “heard or dreamed about the Indian jungle”, to Kipling the jungle was the source of India’s rhythm, its great and generous beating heart.

In the intervening century, modern society encroached. The generosity of the forest was increasingly viewed as a resource to be exploited. The last Javan rhino disappeared from India’s jungles before 1925 — the same fate that befell Vietnam’s Javan rhino in 2011.

As modern-day Vietnam experiences the same earthshaking changes, its most vulnerable inhabitants are struggling to adapt.

With biodiversity outstanding enough to support nearly 12,000 animal species comes challenges — like those detailed in a 2013 WWF report concluding that 10 percent of Vietnam’s wildlife species are in danger of extinction.

On the cusp of an unknown fate, we take a look at the facts on the ground — those cute, creepy and crawly creatures that we need to bring with us if the Vietnamese future is to hold the same magic as its past.

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Clockwise from top-left: Saola (WWF-Canon/David Hulse), Asian Elephant, Bearcat,

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King Cobra (Kalyan Varma), Dugong, Edwards's Pheasant, Indochinese Tiger, Eurasian Jay

With nearly 12,000 species of fauna found domestically, Vietnam has long been recognised as one the most biodiverse countries in the world — one of the 16 most biodiverse countries, according to a 1992 assessment. Here are some of the animals that make Vietnam wild, weird and above all, wonderful.

Words by Ed Weinberg

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A Siamese crocodile and an adventurous frog

“They sleep with their mouths open to release heat” — Wikipedia, in reference to the Siamese crocodile

T

he name Siamese crocodile is a misnomer — there are as few as two of the critically endangered species remaining in the Thai wilds. 100 more remain in the wild in Vietnam, remnants of the unique freshwater habitat that the Mekong once incubated.

Although extensive damming of the upper Mekong and other habitat incursions have reduced the number of freshwater animals floating around Vietnam’s swampy territory, their diversity is still astounding. Of the 550 different species of freshwater fish native to Vietnam, 80

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are found nowhere else.

An even starker example of this changing environment is found in the Yangtze giant softshell turtle — aka, the Red River giant softshell turtle — the largest freshwater turtle in the world. Of the four remaining members of this nearly extinct species, two swim in the waters of northern Vietnam. The only mating pair known to observers resides in China’s Suzhou Zoo, where they’ve been matched at some 80 years of age, the fate of their race resting on their massive shells.

Mekong Giant Catfish (International Rivers/Zeb Hogan)

“The thin, nearly transparent fish has the sex organ located underneath its chin on the male body, and at the throat on the female one” — Thanh Nien News, in reference to the penis-head fish

‘P

enis-head fish’ isn’t just a cheeky name for this unusually equipped fish — it’s the layman’s translation of its scientific name, Phallostethus cuulong.

The Mekong Delta native is among 99 new Vietnamendemic species of flora and fauna uncovered in a 2012 to 2013 survey of the Greater Mekong Region.

For a country whose richly varied forests, marshes, rivers and coral reefs support 10 percent of the world’s species of mammals and birds, this wasn’t anything unexpected.

Discovered less than 100km from Ho Chi Minh City by the same study was the large green Helen’s flying frog, native to the threatened lowland forests of Binh

Thuan and Dong Nai provinces. If you want more exoticism, head to central Vietnam’s largely unexplored Langbian Plateau cloud forest, home to the vampire flying frog, discovered in 2008 and so named for the non-bloodsucking fangs of its tadpoles.

Dr. Jodi Rowley, who discovered the vampire frog and four other endemic amphibians, described her quest to Australian Geographic: “I question my sanity in the middle of the night during a monsoon downpour, when I’m covered in mud and leeches, being bitten by malarial mosquitoes, and am four days walk from civilisation — all the while attempting to make frog noises — but it really makes you feel alive.”

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Right: Giant Muntjac (John Harrison) Bottom: Saola (WWF-Canon/David Hulse)

“The saola, one of the rarest and most threatened mammals on the planet, has been photographed in Vietnam for the first time in the 21st century” — WWF

T

his lede dates from Nov. 12 of last year, and its breathless quality is the result of 15 long years of searching. Dubbed the ‘Asian Unicorn’ for its rareness and two horns, the saola is an icon of the amazing biodiversity to be found in the section of Annamite Mountains that run from Hue and along the border with Laos.

Discovered in 1992 by a team comprised of government specialists and WWF researchers, the saola was the first large mammal new to science in over 50 years. Its discovery paved the way for the identification of two more previously unknown forest-dwellers, the

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large-antlered muntjac and the Truong Son muntjac, in 1994 and 1997 respectively.

Just as the saola’s first sighting proved a landmark event, its rediscovery also marks an encouraging achievement. “Since 2011, forest guard patrols... have removed more than 30,000 snares from this critical saola habitat and destroyed more than 600 illegal hunters’ camps,” Dr. Van Ngoc Thinh, Central Annamites Coordinator for WWF-Vietnam, said then. “Confirmation of the presence of the saola in this area is a testament to the dedicated and tireless efforts of these forest guards.”

Left: Javan Rhino (Alain Compost) Bottom: Javan Rhino (Wikipedia Commons)

“Another sad day for earth” — Cody Dieffenbach, commenting on an extinction report

I

n 1999, the first known images of Vietnam’s Javan rhino subspecies were recorded by a WWF camera trap, proving that the rhino wasn’t extinct in mainland Asia as was once believed. 11 years later, the last of these rhinos was hunted down in Cat Tien National Park, and newly declared extinct.

“The last Javan rhino in Vietnam has gone,” Tran Thi Minh Hien, WWF-Vietnam’s Country Director, said at the time. “Vietnam has lost part of its natural heritage.”

If those comments were diplomatic, WWF’s extinction

report was less so, citing insufficient protective measures taken despite the millions of dollars of international conservation funds poured into Cat Tien. The report warned, “Vietnam is on the verge of an extinction crisis with many other species threatened by hunting and habitat loss.”

But there is hope for the 35 or so survivors of the species left in Java. Once facing a similar crisis, Africa’s southern white rhino population now numbers close to 20,000, and is a model for species rehabilitation the world over.

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Leopard Cats (Nick Ross)

“God in heaven! It’s a tiger!” — Colonel John W. Ripley, USMC

D

uring the American War, tiger attacks supposedly multiplied, or at least those caught in the jungle night thought they did. One retired soldier said the tigers must have thought it hubris for the warring sides to be stalking each other in their jungle.

The jungle is also home to the clouded leopard, a medium-sized cat said to form the evolutionary link between small cats and big cats, perhaps descending from the sabre-toothed cats with whom they share a 100-degree jaw gape. They’re more at home in the trees than they are on the ground, adopting lives of

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secrecy in Southeast Asia’s dense tropical forests. But in Vietnam, their habitat has been steadily decreasing, by a rate of 10 percent per year.

As few as 30 Indochinese tigers are thought to remain in Vietnam’s wild. Last month’s incident in Nghe An, in which two bound, anaesthetised tigers were thrown from the back of an unmarked truck, only serves to underscore the severity of their plight.

But in February, quintuplets were born to an Indochinese tigress at the Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens, the first delivery at the zoo in 20 years. Hope springs eternal.

Left: Tonkin Snub-Nosed Monkey (Flora & Fauna International)

Top Right: Cao Vit Gibbon (Flora & Fauna International/Zhao Chao)

Bottom Right: Red-Shanked Douc Langur

“When I saw the Tonkin snub-nosed monkeys, I was overjoyed” — Biologist Le Khac Quyet

T

hough Tonkin snub-nosed monkeys are the smallest of the four snub-nosed monkey types, they are also Vietnam’s largest primate species — not that you’ll ever see them. According to Flora & Fauna International’s December 2013 estimate, there are fewer than 250 in the world, with nearly half of that number residing in the Khau Ca Species and Habitat Conservation Area in Ha Giang Province.

Surprisingly, those were encouraging returns — the domestic population was estimated at 22 in 2005.

Similarly scarce, Delacour’s langurs are believed to also number around 250, but entirely endemic to the country they are found only in an area of

around 6,000sqkm in northern Vietnam. The largest population is in Van Long Nature Reserve in Ninh Binh, where the primate makes its home at elevations up to 328 metres, in terrain dominated by limestone karst.

Yet another primate landing on The World’s 25 Most Endangered Primates list is the Cao Vit gibbon, the second-rarest ape in the world after its closest relative the Hainan gibbon. It lives in one patch of forest on the China-Vietnam border, and there only remain about 130 invidviduals. Cross-border efforts have brought that 2012 population estimate up 17 percent from the number surveyed in 2007.

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Dugong

“Unusual animals continuously discovered in Vietnam” — VietNamNet Bridge headline

“A

fish with a snake body and crocodile head, an oyster with 16 pearls, a snakehead weighing 6kg, a vegetarian pig that can guard a house like a dog,” starts the article so titled, and they don’t even mention the dyed blue or pink chickens you’ll occasionally find sold streetside.

A Korea-originating video called Vietnam Monster circulated last year, showing the hoisting of some pelican-jawed whale onto a truck while hundreds watched, supposedly on Cat Ba Island. “Monster worm?” some speculated. “Loch Ness?”

But all of these wild headlines took the shine away

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from the magical creatures Vietnam’s had all along.

Take the dugong — aka, ‘the lady of the sea’ if you’re being nice, ‘sea cow’ if you’re being honest. The only extant relative of the manatee, the dugong is considered to be source material for mermaids, not very fit ones at that.

The pangolin is a type of scaly anteater, whose name comes from the Malay word pengguling, meaning ‘something that rolls up’. The pangolin’s scales are made of keratin, just like human fingernails and rhino horns, and they curl up when threatened, even taking their babies inside with them.

White-Crested Laughingthrush

“I flap, therefore I am” — Rex W. Huppke, writing on Flappy Bird for the Chicago Tribune

I

t all comes back to Jean Delacour. The wealthy young ornithologist funded and led a total of seven expeditions to French Indochina between 1923 and 1939, which resulted in the discovery of over 140 new bird species, 230 species new to Indochina and a collection in excess of 30,000 specimens. Though some came before him, Vietnam’s wealth in bird species needed the systemised, large-scale approach he brought with him.

The most noteworthy of these species was known as far back as 1896, when Alphonse Milne-Edwards saw his pheasant. Having since suffered habitat loss from wartime defoliation and deforestation, Edward’s

pheasant is currently listed as a critically endangered species, with 50 to 249 believed to be running about in the damp mountain forests of Central Vietnam.

On the list of the 12 true endemics, laughingthrushes and wren babblers make up six of the species. In number, they’re fairly widespread, and the Dalat Plateau is a popular choice of habitat.

And now the inevitable question — were any of these birds the inspiration for Flappy Bird? According to Animalist News’ best guess, no, they’re not. The only bird round and unflappable enough, the ptarmigan, is found in arctic and subarctic areas, with temperatures even Dalat can’t match.

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W

hen we arrive there’s a group of kids — sixth graders — already waiting.

“Do you mind if the kids come with us?” asks Le Xuan Lam, the centre manager.

I am glad the kids are here. It means that we will have company when we check out the Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station. More importantly, their presence marks something vital to conserving Vietnam’s ecological diversity — education. The kids are here to learn.

After a quick coffee Lam takes us into the centre, switching seamlessly between Vietnamese and English. English for our sakes, but also for the sake of the kids. “Do you understand what I’m saying?” he asks in Vietnamese as he rifles off a sentence in English. For Lam, education is always two-fold.

The Wildlife Rescue Station was set up

by Wildlife at Risk (WAR) in 2006, and like its northern Vietnam counterparts in Cuc Phuong (conservation centres for primates, turtles and carnivores) and Tam Dao (bears), it fulfills a vital function in the role of preserving Vietnam’s natural diversity. In the past eight years over 2,000 animals have passed through the centre’s doors, many rehabilitated into the wild, many gradually moved on to rescue centres in Hon Me (in Kien Giang) and Cat Tien National Park.

But the role of the centre is not just to rescue animals bred illegally on farms or held in captivity, it is also, says Lam, to educate the general public.

“Raising awareness with the public is very important,” he explains. “If we only rescue one or two animals and release them in the jungle, it’s a small thing. It doesn’t solve the problem of conservation — the animals are still under threat. We have to raise awareness so the public can understand how and why we have to conserve animals.

Rescuing animals is just temporary. It’s just a temporary solution.”

The scale of the problem is huge. Last year, says Lam, the environmental police brought 1,000 individual animals to the rescue station. Part of their investigative focus during this period was on nearby Hoc Mon, a rural district of Ho Chi Minh City. “[The environmental police] found many, many endangered animals in restaurants.

And this is in just one district of Ho Chi Minh City. They don’t have enough people to enforce the laws.”

The need for better enforcement is something echoed by Quyen Vu, the director of Education for Nature in Vietnam (ENV).

Born out of the Cuc Phuong Community Awareness Program in 2000 — the project educated residents in the Cuc Phuong National Park area why conservation was so important to Vietnam — ENV’s initial

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mission was focused on raising awareness and replicating the programme elsewhere.

“We felt that community awareness was badly needed around the country and we could not protect parks and protected areas without strong support from local communities,” explains Quyen. Since its inauguration, ENV has provided training and support to communities living in more than 50 protected areas around the country.

However, while education is vital, after a few years ENV realised that it was a long-term investment and that a much more aggressive approach was required.

Otherwise, people would continue to view endangered wildlife as a source of profit, and the populations of tigers, elephants, pangolins and other species would continue to dwindle.

“We started focusing on strengthening law enforcement,” explains Quyen. “We created a national toll-free hotline to encourage the public to take action and report wildlife crime… Today our strategy for combating the illegal wildlife trade focuses on three key areas: reducing demand for wildlife, strengthening law enforcement and improving legislation.”

She adds: “At the moment, we have more than 4,400 volunteers around the country and nine volunteers clubs in major cities who are responsible for carrying out

compliance monitoring in their local areas.

They play as ENV’s eyes and ears all over the country.”

Quyen and Lam want to pass on the urgency of the situation through their work.

But how do they take the message home to city dwellers, who must form the strength of their network?

“Humans are part of the ecosystem,” says Quyen. “If we don’t protect our own living environment, we will destroy our own human race.”

Lam’s response is similar.

“Animals, the environment, humans.

We are all connected. If animals are lost, then this is a loss to our environment, and humans will also be lost. It’s a circle.”

Back in the Rescue Station we come to the first otter enclosure. Otters are far from endangered — in fact their population numbers remain fairly healthy — but they are still a target.

The otters see us coming and one climbs up a log to the edge of the enclosure, looking at the new visitors. Lam puts his hand out and the otter places his paw through the wire mesh — they make contact. Then he encourages the kids to do the same. They follow their lead. Everyone is in hysterics. “Very cute,” says Lam in

English as I bring my camera close to the enclosure to film the otter — it puts out its paw and claws at my lens.

Saving wildlife is not just about imbalances in the ecosystem and about the links between humans, animals and the environment. It is for other reasons, too.

These animals are sentient beings, with feelings and thoughts and brains. People often forget this.

Years ago I was introduced to Abdul, an orangutan who lived in Bukit Lawang, just north of Medan in Sumatra. Somehow he’d become friendly with the park rangers and guides, and although living wild, would come down, greet them and communicate with them whenever they approached the jungle.

“He can’t say it,” said our guide, “but he’s expressed it through gestures and facial expressions. The jungle is going, gradually being cut down, and all the orangutans are scared. They’re worried that they’re losing their home.”

Conservation is not just about keeping our ecosystem intact and saving the human race, it’s about saving animals, too.

Says Quyen: “We feel that we are running against time and we believe that Vietnam is heading in the right direction. But for some species, our efforts might have already been too late.”

The Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station As with all NGOs, the wildlife rescue station needs money.

The more money they have, the more work they can do to conserve Vietnam’s biodiversity.

To donate email info@wildlifeatrisk.org or contact Mr. Lam directly on lxlam.wildlife@gmail.com or on 0984 281190.

The rescue station is located at Highway 15, Cho Cu 2, An Nhon Tay, Cu Chi, Ho Chi Minh City.

Education for Nature in Vietnam To donate to ENV, go to envietnam.org/index.php/how-you-can-help/donate.

If you need to report a wildlife crime (from within Vietnam) call ENV’s free hotline on 1800 1522 or email hotline@fpt.vn.

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Sometimes it seems there isn’t enough love to go around for the hurt and abandoned pets of Vietnam. Photographers Julie Vola and Francis Xavier meet four households that have opened their homes and hearts to the animals supported by Hanoi’s Tram Cuu Ho Meo and Ho Chi Minh City’s Animal Rescue and Care

Tu Ngoc and Lucy Snowball (seven weeks old), Sharky (five weeks) and Joe (one year) Fostered from T RAM C UU H O M EO in Hanoi facebook.com/tramcuuhochomeohanoi “Until last week Snowball couldn’t go up the stairs, so he would be mewling every time the other cats and I would be upstairs. Last week I kept calling him to come, and he started jumping up one step at a time while mewling, as the other cats and I looked at him from upstairs. It was so cute looking at him trying to jump up one step at a time — and every single time he needed two or more attempts. He would fall back on the stair and then try again and make it. Now he can go up but he doesn’t realise [how to] go down, so he stays upstairs mewling, calling for us.”

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Aubrey and Soren Big Nose Monroe, Honey Honey and Helen Blinky — ages unknown Fostered from ARC in Ho Chi Minh City arcpets.com “Soren and I have been living in Saigon for four years. For the past two years we’ve been fostering cats with ARC. We have fostered 32 kittens in that time.

Right now, we have Big Nose Monroe (the brown one), Honey Honey (ginger) and Helen Blinky (calico). They are all available for adoption!

“Monroe is the most playful of the three and his favourite toy to play with is a blown-up balloon. He’ll chase them all over the house and carry them around in his mouth by the knot!

“Honey Honey is also super playful but soooo affectionate. Whenever we come home after a day out and about, he is very vocal about asking for pets!

“Helen Blinky is a sweet and dainty little lady. She had a severe eye infection when she was young which left her mostly blind, only able to see shadows. Helen’s lack of vision does not slow her down a bit. She loves to climb, run around and play. She’s the most outgoing of the three kitties and always curious to check out anything new in the apartment.”

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Alison and Eddy Puma (18 months old) Fostered from ARC in Ho Chi Minh City arcpets.com “We’ve had Puma for about three months now. His fur will probably never fully grow back, but now that he has had his skin condition treated and with lots of love and attention he has learned to trust people again.

“He likes Chupa Chups lollipops, and is terrified of toads but will happily take on a housefly. You’ll fall crazy in love with Puma’s Beyoncé booty shakin’.”

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Hoa and Antoine Vang (five months old), Corto (one year) and four unnamed kittens Fostered from T RAM C UU H O M EO in Hanoi facebook.com/tramcuuhochomeohanoi “Fostering cats is a lot of work and it’s sometime painful, walking on our knees to catch a scared cat from under the stairs, looking everywhere in a house to find the kittens the mum cat hid, setting the alarm to wake up every four hours in the night to feed kittens or bringing a sick cat to the vet in the middle of the night. A lot of cats and dogs are abandoned by their owners because they are sick.

“For me and my husband it’s a real pleasure, and every time the phone shows a call from Quynh (the member of the association we are in contact with) we think ‘again!’ We always end up being impatient and looking at the time, waiting for the new cat to come. And we always end up being so sad when they go to their definitive adopting family.”

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In the original myth, the Four Holy Beasts of Vietnam came from the dying body of Pangu — he who was born from the Cosmic Egg that birthed the world.

But these symbols have come to represent more than an origin myth.

They’re the sun and the moon, the seasons and elements, life itself.

Words by Ed Weinberg, illustration by Cristina Nualart

(Long / Rong) “The Symbol of Yang, Lord of Scaly Animals, Source of Spring, King in the East, Father of Wood”

W

hen we talk about the Vietnamese dragon, we talk about prosperity, power and rainfall. We talk about the universe, life and growth. We talk about the identities of north and south. We talk about the strange clay designs that predate recorded history in Vietnam, comprising features of crocodile, snake, cat, rat and bird. When we talk about the Vietnamese dragon, we talk about Vietnam itself.

When the second Hung King, the Dragon Lord of Lac, met his fairy bride Au Co, Vietnam was born. When Hanoi was first named, it was named Thang Long — ‘rising dragon’. In the year 1010, King Ly Thai To designated it as the capital city after seeing a yellow dragon flying above the clear blue of its sky. The name stood for “Vietnam’s bright and developed future”.

Halong Bay, Long Bien Bridge, the section of Mekong River that flows through Vietnam, Cuu Long, the dragonshaped bridge that breathes fire into the Danang air every Sunday night — all commemorate this primal force.

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(Phuong) “The Emblem of Bliss, Lord of Birds, Source of Summer, Queen in the South, Mother of Fire”

H

er face is a swallow’s, so sweet and unassuming. Her beak is a rooster’s, so good at snatching up snakes. Her neck is a snake’s, because why not?

She represents the cosmos — her head the sky, her eyes the sun, her back the moon, her wings the wind, her feet the earth, her tail the planets. Her feathers contain the five fundamental colors — black, white, red, blue-green and yellow — said to represent the five Confucian virtues. She is said only to appear in places blessed with the utmost peace, prosperity and happiness.

She originally contained both male and female — Phung the male part, Hoang the female. But her equanimity was so great her two sides soon merged.

Adorning a house, she represents the loyalty and honesty of the people living there; adorning the seal of an empress, she represents her heaven-sent power. And placed opposite the dragon, she represents a perfect union of power with grace, yin and yang.

(Ky Lan) “The Harbinger of Greatness, Lord of Furry Quadrupeds, Source of Autumn, King in the West, Father of Metal”

T

he Qilin is said to herald the arrival or passing of a great ruler or sage, so it’s something to look out for... but just what is it? At various times and in various places, it’s taken on features of a lion, tiger, deer, dragon, giraffe, a Chinese unicorn, wreathes of flame and smoke, an ox-tail and carp whiskers.

It’s said that their voices sound like the tinkling of bells in the wind.

They sit at the foot of pagoda stairways and decorate the label of one Japan’s most popular beers. And, in a slightly more lionine form, they visit every Tet. Before the lion was a source of Tet luck, it was a village terror. To save the people of a certain village, Buddha transformed into ong Dia — The God of Fortunes and Virtues — to try to control it. He picked a herb, linh chi, to feed it, and the lion forgot all about the yummy humans. Eventually he made it into a pet, and when ong Dia and his ky lan visit every year, people remember their good fortune.

(Quy) “The Bringer of Long Life, Lord of Shelled Animals, Source of Winter, King in the North, Father of Water”

I

n the seminal Chinese novel Journey to the East, the Taoist god Xuan Wu — whose name is identical with the Black Tortoise in Chinese characters — had both a ‘tortoise general’ and a ‘snake general’ serving under him. Before all that, though, he was the son of a ruler who spurned the throne for the pursuit of enlightenment.

But in order to achieve divinity, he was told to purge every trace of humanity from his body. As he’d always eaten typical human foods, his stomach and intestines were impure. What to do?

No worries! A god came and switched out these organs with divine ones. But yes, worries, because the discarded stomach and intestines became a turtle and a snake, and they transformed into demons. When Xuan Wu brought them to justice, they saw the error of their ways and swore to make up for their badness. They became his generals, and intertwined themselves for any number of clever pagoda displays.

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“During the expedition, he would discover a footprint on the forest floor that, after analysis, was deemed far too large to belong to any known ape. And so, the legend of Vietnam’s own ‘Bigfoot’ was born”

In the jungles of Vietnam lurks an unsolved mystery.

The missing link, or just a tall tale? Words by Karen Hewell.

Illustration by Vu Ha Kim Vy

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I

t was late afternoon on a scorching day in Vietnam’s Central Highlands. An exhausted group of American soldiers — the 101st Airborne Division LRRPs — were preparing to continue up a mountainous jungle incline. It wasn’t steep, but their heavy packs made even a slight climb feel like scaling a cliff.

Exhausted, the six-man patrol elected to take a break. Careful to keep watch, the men leaned against a wall thick with foliage, loosened their packs, and peered out into the quiet jungle brush.

Suddenly, a thicket of trees just metres down the hill shook violently. Drawing their weapons in frenzied terror, all six men whipped around towards the commotion and waited for the intruder to emerge. When it did, no one was ready for what they saw.

Peering out from the trees was a massive face with dark, deeply set eyes and thick with hair. Or was it fur? Slowly, it strolled into the clearing — upright like a human, but with muscular arms and a heavy torso like something else.

“What is that?!” one of the soldiers whispered, terrified, arms trembling with his weapon still trained on the creature.

“It’s an ape, a rock ape,” another soldier answered. He paused, second-guessing himself. “It has to be.”

No one moved. No one dared to. After what felt like eternity, the creature lost interest, turned towards the jungle, and disappeared. An ape it might have been, but no one was convinced.

The six men would eventually find out that they had not been the only ones to see this terrifying, mysterious creature. Vietnamese living in the area and American soldiers alike had reported sightings, yet no one had an explanation for what they saw. Unsure of what the creatures were, locals simply called them nguoi rung — the people of the forest.

So numerous were the reported sightings that in 1974, the authorities launched an expedition into the Central Highlands region to search for the creature. Leading the way was Professor Vo Quy. During the expedition, he would discover a footprint on the forest floor that, after analysis, was deemed far too large to belong to any known ape.

And so, the legend of Vietnam’s own ‘Bigfoot’ was born. The mystery of nguoi rung would become yet another ‘Bigfoot’ fable in

Southeast Asia, which famously included Borneo’s Batutut, a reportedly aggressive creature known to attack humans and eat their livers.

Sightings of nguoi rung continued, and despite eyewitness reports’ inconsistency on the creatures’ colour and size, they were enough to convince Professor Tran Hong Viet to take up the search again in 1982. He became the second scientist to find footprints — this time in the jungle of Vu Quang near Ha Tinh — and is one of the country’s leading researchers into the legend of nguoi rung.

Dr. Tran continued his research into the mysterious forest creature for almost four decades, but after his initial discovery, found little evidence to support its existence.

That is, until the world took notice, and the American paranormal TV series Destination Truth decided to take up the story.

Airing their episode on Vietnam in July 2012, alongside a charismatic host, the intrepid band of researchers and a full television crew set off into the jungles of Vietnam in search of the creature. In charmingly theatrical style — and with the help of motion detectors, thermo-radar and some very clever editing — the team emerged from the forests triumphant with what ‘Bigfoot’ researchers called “the most convincing proof of existence” of nguoi rung.

But despite the find, the legend of nguoi rung is still hotly debated, since the Vu Quang forests — where the creatures are thought to roam — have also yielded a number of previously unknown species of mammals since the tales began. Discovered in the 1990s, the Vu Quang ox (sao la) and the giant muntjac were the first new mammals to be discovered in 50 years. Many experts believe that the nguoi rung creature is simply an undocumented species of ape — or, more likely, a tall tale contrived through the fantastical imaginations of would-be cryptozoologists.

Regardless, the legend of Vietnam’s very own Batutut lives on until this very day, and has proven to be one of the country’s unsolved mysteries.

Nguoi rung or not, there is certainly something lurking in the jungles of Vietnam. And it has very, very big feet.

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The first national park in the country, Cuc Phuong also has Vietnam’s most advanced animal rescue and conservation centres.

Words by Hoa Le. Photos by David Harris

W

hen we arrived at Cuc Phuong National Park on a humid off-season day in June, it was nearly empty. In contrast to the other times I’ve been there, there were no flocks of tourists or students hoping off buses at the entrance. Only hundreds of beautiful butterflies welcomed us.

Cuc Phuong is the first and the oldest primary forest in Vietnam, established in 1962 during the American War, under the direction of Ho Chi Minh. It’s one of the richest sources of biodiversity in the country, with 97 mammal species, 300 bird species, 36 reptilian species, 17 species of amphibians, 11 species of fish, 2,000 plant species and thousands of insect species. Despite being recognised early as a nature preserve, until recently poaching and illegal hunting were still rampant.

Although the summer isn’t a good time to spot wild animals, we’re okay with that.

We’re not relying on chance; we are visiting the endangered species that stay in the park’s three rescue and conservation centres.

The Delacour’s langurs have an easily recognisable appearance because of the white fur on the legs. They are also known as the white short langurs or vooc mong

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trang (white bump langurs) in Vietnamese.

Despite being named after a FrenchAmerican zoologist, Delancour’s langurs are endemic to Vietnam. But the way these creatures were discovered is a story in itself.

According to Tilo Nadler, the founder of the Endangered Primate Rescue Center (EPRC), the first Delacour’s langur was first spotted in Cuc Phuong in the 1930s. But for 50 years after that, there were no sightings of these beautiful creatures; whether they were extinct or just hiding deep in the karst stone forest was a mystery.

In 1987, local forest dwellers happened upon two Delacour’s langurs in Cuc Phuong. And this time, the Frankfurt Zoological Society decided to carry out research to find more information on this rare species. The research didn’t disappoint them — the discovered that the primate was native only to Cuc Phuong and a few neighouring areas. And they were critically endangered.

At that time, Nadler was working as a biologist in Germany and was assigned to do the research. “These animals were so beautiful and critically endangered, so I thought I needed to do something about it. If we don’t protect them, they will eventually be gone.”

With the agreement of the park’s director,

in 1993 Nadler built a primate rescue centre.

Together with his wife Nguyen Thi Thu Hien, he has dedicated almost all of his life to the rescue, cure and care of rare primates.

20 years ago there were 18 or 19 subpopulations, comprising nearly a 1,000 individuals. Today, with a population of less than 250, Delacour’s langur is listed as one of The World’s 25 Most Endangered Primates by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

— and in small populations in Laos and Cambodia. According to Nadler, the langur’s critically endangered populations are highly fragmented and are estimated at about 1,000 individuals.

As for the centre’s humans, Nadler and Hien are happy with their results so far, but they are worried about running out of cages.

And anyway, as Nadler says, “It’s sad to see animals that live only in cages. One day we want to release them all back to the wild.”

As Hien shows us around the cages of 50 rescued animals, she tells us how they came here. All of the animals were confiscated from hunters and illegal traders, and many were severely injured when they arrived.

One Delacour’s langur sits on a branch high in his cage, his long furry tail nearly touching the ground. He quietly watches us as we come close. According to Hien, he knows we are newcomers here because we aren’t wearing staff uniforms.

The ultimate goal of Nadler and the centre is to release these animals back to the wild after rehabilitating them and training them in natural habits in semi-wild areas.

In 2012, five Delacour’s langurs were successfully released by the centre to Van Long Nature Reserve, about 30km from Cuc Phuong. In order to keep these animals safe, EPRC also hired 30 guards from eight communes around the area.

“Many of these guards were once actually hunters or the sons of the hunters,” Hien says. “Now they’re aware that hunting is not okay and they also make an impact on others. No more hunting is carried out in the area. All the guns were collected.”

Aside from the Delacour’s langur, EPRC has also released 10 Ha Tinh langurs back to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in Quang Binh Province, where this species mostly originates from.

As Hien takes us around other cages, we see more beautiful and colourful langurs.

There is the famous Cat Ba langur, known as the golden-headed langur because of the fur on its head. They are found only on Cat Ba Island, not anywhere else in the world.

There are four individuals in the centre’s keeping. In the wild, there are sadly only 55 left — and not in one population, but in several groups, isolated and without contact with each other. This makes them even more critically endangered.

In the next cage sits a beautiful greyshanked douc langur. Described as among the most beautiful primates in the world, these douc langurs were only discovered in Vietnam in 1997. They are only found in Central Vietnam — Quang Nam, Kon Tum, Gia Lai and Quang Ngai Provinces

As we enter the Turtle Conservation Centre (TCC) across from the EPRC, many beautiful and tiny turtles slowly crawl on the ground, while some swim in a pond inside the enclosure. They are among the 700 aquatic and terrestrial turtles and tortoises, from 18

species, being rehabilitated or hatched here.

Manager Do Thanh Hao picks up one small, keeled box turtle, which is native to the park, and explains its character to us.

The hand-sized turtle has a yellow-brownish carapace, which is serrated on the lower edge just like a pretty autumn leave. In the middle of its bottom shell, the plastron, the turtle has a hinge that lets it close most of its body into its carapace — top shell — like a box. That’s how the name came about.

The most valuable and critically endangered turtle in the centre is the Vietnamese Pond Turtle or rua trung bo. Its native habitat is in Quang Ngai and the surrounding central regions. Out of the 300 dark yellow stripe-headed turtles in the centre, 71 of them were transferred last year from the Munster and Rotterdam Zoos.

“‘Many of these guards were once actually hunters or the sons of the hunters,’ Hien says. ‘Now they’re aware that hunting is not okay and they also make an impact on others. No more hunting is carried out in the area’” Donations To provide financial and emotional support to the conservation centres at Cuc Phuong National park, please contact the following people:

Endangered Primate Rescue Center

Turtle Conservation Center

Tilo Nadler t.nadler@hust.edu.vn

Do Thanh Hao haodt.turtleconservation@ gmail.com

Nguyen Thi Thu Hien thuhien191072@yahoo.com

Carnivore and Pangolin Conservation Program Nguyen Van Thai asianpangolin@gmail.com

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In 2011, the TCC released 10 impressed tortoises into Pu Mat National Park. The impressed tortoise is a delicate species, difficult to keep in captivity. So they decided to give the animals a second chance in the wild.

One year later, the TCC in cooperation with Education for Nature Vietnam transferred 186 turtles to the Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station in southern Vietnam. The shipment included elongated tortoises, Giant Asia pond turtles, yellow-headed temple turtles, South Asian box turtles and black marsh turtles, which are all native to central or southern Vietnam.

One of the highlights for our trip was visiting the small carnivores and pangolins at the Carnivore and Pangolin Conservation Program (CPCP) conservation centre. These animals sleep in the day and only wake up to look for food when the sun has already set.

As we arrived at the centre at around 7pm, we are able to see a few civets and binturongs (bearcats) quietly striding around the cages.

The pangolins are still sleeping — they normally wake up at 9pm in warm weather.

As staffer Nguyen Van Thai shines light on one of the cages, we see a beautiful black-and-white-striped Owston’s palm civet walking quietly on a branch. Although it’s just a little bigger than an adult cat, its mouth, neck and tail are much longer.

Owston’s palm civets are among the animals at very high risk of being hunted for fur and food.

The CPCP currently holds 38 carnivores, including Owston's civets, masked palm civets, small-toothed palm civets, binturongs, leopards, common palm civets and five Sunda pangolins. In the past, the centre has released rehabilitated carnivores and pangolins into Cat Tien and Cuc Phuong National Parks. But according to Thai, since 2010 the programme hasn’t received any new individuals, despite proof of a number of poaching confiscations.

“Sometimes we receive reports of the rangers confiscating animals,” Thai says.

“But by the time we receive the permission

to take them, they’ve already been sold back to the trade.” The current law lists these animals in endangered group IIB, one group lower than critically endangered. “This means that when animals are seized, if they are not able to be rescued or rehabilitated, they can be sold for commercial purposes.

But in most cases, they are sold immediately, without any real health examination.”

This shouldn’t come as any surprise — pangolins are easily found on restaurant menus across Vietnam. In 2013, CNN reporter John Sutter investigated the pangolin trade and found a healthy supply

chain in place, with huge profits going to traders of its meat and scales. In restaurants, pangolins are sold for as much as VND7 million a kilo.

As we finally come to the pangolin cage, Thai opens its box and we see a pangolin sleeping in peace. The animal senses our light, and slowly crawls to the back of the space to continue sleeping.

We leave Cuc Phuong the next day, but this time with a heavy heart and a big question. In the future, will our offspring be able to see any of these beautiful creatures in the wild?

Getting There Cuc Phuong National Park is in Ninh Binh Province about 120km from Hanoi. To get there, catch a bus from Giap Bat Station in Hanoi to the Nho Quan–Me area. From there, take a taxi or a xe om to the park.

Alternatively, the national park is located just off the Ho Chi Minh Trail (Highway 15). Follow the Thang Long Highway 30km out of Hanoi to Hoa Lac and turn left. This road becomes Highway 15.

The park entrance is in Nho Quan.

“‘It’s sad to see animals that live only in cages,’ Nadler says.

‘We want one day to release them all back to the wild’”

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Arthritis got you down? Looking for an arousal aid? Harry Hodge sets out to research different medicinal wines, and the animals you may find within.

Photo by Kyle Phanroy

“H

ow’s the wine?” I was asked.

Considering it was poured by my Vietnamese soon-tobe father-in-law, I sat and contemplated how best to answer.

“Scaly,” was all I could think of. It didn’t translate well. “Interesting and different” drew a better response.

Ruou thuoc (medicinal wine) is a staple of traditional Vietnamese and Chinese medicines, both drawn from the thinking that different animals can offer different health benefits when infused in rice wine or grain alcohol. Hence, the line between ‘wine’ and ‘spirit’ can often be a bit blurry — especially after one or two cups. Some are better described as whiskies and others as wines.

While a visit to Ben Thanh Market in Saigon yielded examples of snake and scorpion wines, it took a trip further afield to Hai Thuong Lan Ong in Cholon to turn up traditional medicine shops selling a greater variety of animal wines. Many shopkeepers expressed concerns about trade secrets, so some information has been kept deliberately hazy. I tried a smattering of the wines myself, although I’m still waiting to see what benefit (if any) to expect.

Ruou ran (snake wine) was first recorded as having been consumed in China, and nowadays it can be found in China, Vietnam and the rest of Southeast Asia. Snakes are widely believed to possess medicinal qualities, and the wine is often advertised to cure everything from farsightedness to hair loss. Mostly in Vietnam, the thinking is it increases sexual virility. I tried the drink a couple of times, and the only effect I noticed was drowsiness.

again, it’s most popular as a virility aid.

Known in Vietnamese as ruou ca ngua, you’ve already heard of my exploits with the stuff. Although it’s billed as a sort of cure-all, I can’t personally vouch for its effectiveness in any category.

During our visit to Hai Thuong Lan Ong, a few places offered ruou bo cap (scorpion wine), such as the bottle pictured. Often it was in a bottle that already came with a snake or lizard. The traditional medicine practitioner at one shop said this particular wine is associated with treating joint issues, sore knees, elbows and the like. Ours came with little berries, and left our staffers lightheaded and excitable.

Another favourite of my father-in-law, who

hails from Bac Ninh Province, is ruou bim bip (bird wine). In my case, the packaging was minimal; a simple Tupperware with our feathered friend immersed in a rice whisky inside. My wife’s family explained that it’s helpful for treating kidney complaints, back pain and anaemia. It also aids women after childbirth.

While these seemed to be the ones we found most often during research, other medicinal wines can include different parts of animals, some of which are of questionable legality.

Wines which include tiger bone, bear's ears and other animal parts have a market, for better or for worse, in this part of the world. This publication does not endorse or recommend any of these for recreational or medicinal purposes, but simply offers these descriptions for personal enlightenment.

Native Taxidermy Plasticisation is the process of injecting polymer into tissue. Made famous by the travelling exhibition Body Worlds, the quality of the exhibits is world-renowned. However, if one is seeking similar preservation of our world’s fauna maybe Vietnam is a little bit lower on the list. Thuat don xac literally translates as the ‘art of stuffing heads’, but looking at the infamous taxidermist endeavours at Suoi Tien Amusement Park or the internet sensation ‘red-eyed zombie horse of Vietnam’, one might think they less resemble art than high school science experiments. Whether these oddities were preserved due to their general oddness — i.e. the five-legged deer, whose Agent Orange-infected birth caused the one leg to jut out from its sternum — or displayed because of their botched post-mortem stuffing, the weirdness level is sure to creep you out enough that your subconscious will need to bury it. — Seamus Butler

Ruou tac ke (gecko wine) is believed to be helpful in curing rheumatism and coughing.

The particular bottle I tried at a friend’s place in District 1 actually contained a seahorse and gecko together. I hoped that, rather like Spider-Man, drinking the concoction would either give me the ability to climb walls as lizards do or increase my swimming ability.

But all I got was a nauseous feeling.

In traditional Chinese medicine, consuming seahorses is thought to be beneficial for human kidneys, improve memory, help women give birth and treat arthritis. But

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Business BEHIND THE SCENES

Pest Control

In Vietnam, there are plenty of cute and harmless urban animals: the friendly neighbourhood dog that pads along the sidewalk, the lazy cat that skirts in and out of alleyways, the little gecko that’s just sort of part of the wall. But then there are the significantly more annoying creatures — and that’s when you call Absolute Pest Control.

Words by Margaret Smith, photos by Kyle Phanroy

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Y

ou’re sitting at home when suddenly the worst thing imaginable happens. A roof rat — which, by the way, can squeeze its whole body through any hole that’s big enough to fit its head — has made its way into your house. What do you do?

Your first thought is probably to call your landlord, who will maybe set up some sticky paper or send up the security guard.

Yet as Vietnam has grown over the past few decades so has the need for professional exterminators. Southeast Asia already has optimal weather conditions for rats and insects — but combine that with urban development and sanitation, and you have a pest’s paradise.

“Think of it from both the residential and the commercial aspect,” says Curt Rischar, a managing partner of pest management service Absolute Pest Control. “You have property that is high-end property here, as far as anyone is concerned… yet that property has been plunked right down in perhaps an environment that would be very different from a Hawaii or Singapore.”

Humidity, constant development, hygiene and sanitation infrastructure issues — it already sounds like a losing battle. How’s a regular human supposed to match up? We decided to follow the boys of Absolute Pest Control, who have been in the business since 1995, as they bring out the big guns for some of their more difficult jobs — and we’re only half-joking about the guns.

In an Apartment Complex District 1, Ho Chi Minh City We’re standing at the entrance of a villa in District 1, complete with wood floors, high ceilings, cream-colored walls and a private

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patio. As he takes off his shoes, exterminator Khuong walks in with two bags — a messenger bag slung over his shoulder and a thick, square briefcase that looks straight out of a heist movie.

Today’s task is to check if any termites found the previously installed bait box, which carries insecticide. Khuong unclips the briefcase and takes out the Termicam, a handheld thermal camera that looks like a laser tag gun. The Termicam detects moisture — which attracts termites — and termite movement through walls.

Curt explains that the Termicam is a big improvement from scopes and motion detectors. “With the thermal imaging,” he says, “you can look at a wall, you can look at a ceiling, you can look at door frames and it will you give you information that may be very, very useful.”

First Khuong checks the skirting, the wooden strip that outlines the bottom of the wall. A blue screen pops up on the Termicam. As Khuong slowly walks around the room, we finally make our way to the bait box. There’s a hole in the corner of the wall where the wood has fallen apart.

Khuong points the Termicam, and on the blue screen three black dots appear.

He explains that these aren’t termites, just moisture damage, but the damage proves that termites have been in the area. Time to check the bait and see if the job is done.

A Residential Job District 2, Ho Chi Minh City Early Wednesday morning and we’re on a residential job in District 2, checking the house for pests and performing chemical work. As we walk through the gate and look at the neatly manicured lawn, flies and mosquitoes start buzzing around our legs.

The four exterminators we’re following start to suit up in green rubber gloves and set up the day’s equipment: compressor sprayers filled with insecticide and something called a thermal fogger, that quite

frankly looks like a grenade launcher.

Chuyen, the team leader, and another exterminator head to the backyard. First they check the two bait stations. These are designed for rats. The square plastic boxes have one hole carved in on each side. The idea is that the rat will scurry in one end, eat the poisonous bait, and scurry out the other end.

“This is the rat of the plague of Europe, climbing the ropes and the ships and this kind of thing,” says Curt, who has tagged along with us today. “They’re native to Southeast Asia, so they’re naturally in coconut trees and in the countryside. But in urban situations, like all over the world, they do really well.”

Next they examine both inside and outside of the house: under the porch, around curtains, in plants, and through every corner. Inside, insecticide is only sprayed in the bathroom drainpipes in order to keep the chemicals to a minimum.

Outside, however, they give the house’s perimeter full treatment.

The final step is the thermal fogger, which creates chemical fog to target flying pests like mosquitoes and flies. It takes a while to turn on; the electric starter doesn’t seem to be working. With one last push, however, the fogger roars to life. The exterminator puts on a gas mask and large earphones, walking around the house as fog follows him. The sound it makes is something like the sound in movies when the apocalypse is starting.

And for some of these insects, this is the end of the world. As we walk out, Curt points out a cockroach on the ground. It’s having trouble walking, and each time it finds its footing it falls back down. Twisting and turning on the ground, Curt says that the cockroach has come into contact with the insecticide. It’s at the end of its life.

Check out your pest control options at absolute-pest-control.com.vn. With operations in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Hai Phong and Nha Trang, Absolute Pest Control can take care of most any pest problem

“Southeast Asia already has optimal weather conditions for rats and insects — but combine that with urban development and sanitation, and you have a pest’s paradise” Pest Control at Home What should you do before you call in the pros? Here are some tips: — Keep your windows and doors closed to keep out flying pests and any other creepy crawlers. Fresh air is nice, but a mosquito flying around your bedroom is not — Make sure to keep your food contained, the easiest way to ward off rats and ants — Get rid of any dirty, standing water. Even that bucket you keep in the bathroom for ‘emergencies’ — Check with your neighbours. With the close proximity of property here, pests can move from house to house with ease. If you can’t do anything to control your neighbours’ mess, at the very least you’ll know where the problem is when you call the professionals — Ant chalk, also known as ‘Miraculous Insecticide Chalk’, is an insecticide in the form of a stick of chalk.

Although miraculous for its clean and fun approach to pest control, it’s also been implicated in a number of accidental child poisonings

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Arts

PUBLIC ART

Saving Face

On a housing complex wall in Ho Chi Minh City, an anonymous story plays out in a parade of changing faces. Emma Roy-Williams ponders the thought behind these solitary thinkers. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

“T

here’s something else I forgot to show you,” Van says.

I met the softly spoken Vietnamese artist two days ago, and now, I’m stood in the hallway of his impressive house. While waiting, I stare up at a five-foot picture of a ballerina hung on the wall. She is in full flow, her arm painted to capture her movement with exquisite attention to detail.

Van emerges from his room with a handful of CDs, all album artwork that he has designed for Vietnamese metal band Black Infinity and popular Vietnamese singer, My Tam. He hands them to me proudly, and I look through them.

“Wow, these are beautiful,” I say, then wince at myself, realising that I’ve used that word to describe a lot of his work throughout our conversations. But that’s what it is: beautiful.

is. He saw similarities between this and the wall, and uses nothing more than a small black rock to chip away at the concrete and a whiteboard marker to draw in the details.

The faces wear the expressions of people who are alone in their thoughts, and that is what interests Van. “I think everybody has sad feelings, although they can smile and be happy and in the moment,” he says. “But when they are alone at night they are in their mind and that is when they feel sad.”

In a world that is lived very much in the public eye, saving face — being in control of your emotions or at least looking like you are — is central to having respect. To relinquish control of your emotions is seen as a sign of weakness.

“Vietnamese culture is very much about the mind,” Van says. “[People] can be happy outside but they can be sad inside.”

The Writing on the Wall

Art for Art’s Sake

I first came upon Van’s work when visiting a friend’s house in the same gated compound in which Van lives in Ho Chi Minh City.

He draws faces onto a large wall opposite his front door — faces that change every so often. Every time I visit, I gaze at the wall for a few moments and try to find what’s changed since the last time I saw it.

The faces look like a part of the wall, as though they appeared from nowhere, although it’s no secret that Van is the artist behind it. Since the first time I saw the mural, I hoped to one day catch a glimpse of the ‘face behind the faces’.

So, when Van finally appeared from his house one day and invited me in to look at his portfolio, I felt privileged to be meeting this creative recluse.

I’m enjoying a rare look at these faces before they’re paved over by Van’s latest muse, having only been seen by a few passers-by.

And already I feel a sense of nostalgia for them, hidden away in this tiny pocket of the city. Public art like Van’s can provide an escape from the daily grind and a kick to the imagination — an important faculty that is often neglected, particularly in a fastpaced city like Saigon, built on certainty and straightforwardness.

“I would love for many people to see it — if it’s public and people like it then they understand me,” Van says. This is the way he puts his perspective out there, as “my character is not very social”. But he doesn’t have ambitions to make this art viewable to more people. This project is essentially a private one.

But if you’re interested in impractical perspectives like Van’s, with values like solitude and emotional honesty, sometimes you have to take the long way home and look in any direction but straight ahead.

Under the Cover of Darkness On my second visit it’s late. We had planned to talk while Van worked on the wall, but now he says he’s too sleepy. At first I’m a little disappointed, but throughout the

night it becomes clear that the wall is a side project, an opportunity to experiment and express himself.

He works on the wall at night because it isn’t as hot as the day, he says, although having new faces appear in the morning does give the wall an unearthly quality. For Van it’s a meditative, fun process.

“At night when people sleep I face the wall and see which bits look like a nose or an eye,” he says. “It’s like a game — find the face. At first it’s for myself, to release the picture in my mind. And then it grows to another level and is for other people.”

He shapes the faces by using the existing contours and shades of the wall, and then drawing in the detail. He got the idea while working with acrylic on canvas at art school.

On canvas, the bottom layer is always white — the more layers you put on the darker it is and the more you take away the lighter it

“The faces look like a part of the wall, as though they appeared from nowhere, although it’s no secret that Van is the artist behind it”

Provided by the artist

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Arts PERSPECTIVE

The Hong Kong Connection

Top: Tran Quoc Tuan By the Sea 3 (2014)

Left: Tran Minh Tam Empress Nam Phuong 6 (2014)

Right: Bui Tien Tuan The Girl in the Flower Dress (2013)

Images provided by Craig Thomas Gallery

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Even though Vietnam has developed a market for contemporary art, domestic galleries continue to invest in expensive Hong Kong exhibition space to show Vietnamese artworks. Cristina Nualart asks why this is happening and if it’s a good thing.

Photos provided by Galerie Quynh, Craig Thomas Gallery and Suzanne Lecht

T

he people at the centre of this weren’t alive when it all started.

For most of the 20th century, no country outside of Vietnam (and a few in the Eastern Bloc) ever saw contemporary Vietnamese art. Despite a rich 70-year-old tradition of painting, much of this art was kept under wraps even in Vietnam, where mistrust and censorship kept things lying low for decades.

In Hanoi, art ‘collectors’ were friends of the artists, who mainly bought artworks to help their painter friends survive.That changed in 1991, when a Hong Kong art gallery, Plum Blossoms, presented Uncorked Soul, a group exhibition of Vietnamese artists. “The exhibition had a startling effect, if not an immediate one,” says Nora Taylor, art historian at the Chicago School of Art. “It took a few years for galleries and museums elsewhere to notice Vietnamese contemporary art.”

But foreign collectors jumped at the opportunity. In the early 1990s, Hong Kong’s yuppies travelled to Hanoi for exotic weekends away. For investment and pleasure, they would buy 10 or 12 Vietnamese paintings at a time, recalls art consultant and erstwhile gallerist Suzanne Lecht.

Suzanne’s life was transformed by Vietnamese art. Graduates from the Hanoi Fine Arts University were the first generation that, from the early 1980s, could choose to paint something other than propaganda art. When Suzanne encountered the art of The Gang of 5 — as five of the university’s graduates called themselves — she was inspired to make their art her mission. With no time to waste, Suzanne moved from Japan to Hanoi in 1993, the same year that Vietnamese art was exhibited internationally for the second time, in Holland.

Plum Blossoms Aren’t Just For Tet Plum Blossoms was the first foreign gallery to introduce Vietnamese painters abroad.

Over 10 artists from the north, centre and south were chosen for Uncorked Soul. Many of the artists had worked with the first government-owned art gallery in Hanoi, founded in 1965. At that point, not one was known outside Vietnam.

In 1991, the Vietnamese authorities had just lifted the ban on abstract art. At the Plum Blossoms exhibition, abstract paintings shone radiantly in their newfound freedom. Figurative works had transitioned from social realist iconography into more expressive images. New artistic forces were born.

Instrumental to the Uncorked Soul show was the hardback catalogue. It wasn’t just a book to be judged by its stylish cover — one might even say it was the show’s best marketing tool. The text, written by Jeffrey Hantover, enlightened the outside world on how modern Vietnamese painting had evolved. Interviews with the artists and some historical background helped art lovers

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Images provided by Galerie Quynh

“In the early 1990s, Hong Kong’s yuppies travelled to Hanoi for exotic weekends away. For investment and pleasure, they would buy 10 or 12 Vietnamese paintings at a time” see the importance of what these artists were looking at. It probably contributed to more than one investment in art, and at high returns, no doubt.

Seeing Beyond Mekong Delta artist Nguyen Trung, now in his seventies, was one of the artists whose work first made it to Hong Kong. In his 1960s youth, wanting to see French art at its best, Nguyen Trung had tried to escape to Paris. His plan failed the first time, but the painter did get to Paris 30 years later.

Many of the paintings he made in his year in Paris in 1990 were exhibited in Uncorked Soul. In Hong Kong, Trung also had the opportunity to discover powerful artworks by Chinese artists, and this made an impression on his own eager soul.

Other Vietnamese artists were also excited to visit what was then a British territory.

In 1997, Suzanne Lecht organised another exhibition in Hong Kong, The Changing Face of Hanoi, taking all five exhibiting artists with her. For most of them, it was their first trip outside of Vietnam. This show was smaller in scale and scope than the exhibition at Plum Blossoms a few years earlier, but it kept Vietnamese art from slipping back into invisibility during the transformative Doi Moi decade.

Vietnam transformed in all directions. A Hong Kong company in 1995 had built the first high rise in Hanoi, the Central Building.

Suzanne had assisted the developer, a supporter of Vietnamese art, to procure two large bronze statues by sculptor Le Cong Thanh for the building’s entrance. And Hong Kong investors gave Hanoi something to look up to.

Saigon Gets Global While the Uncorked Soul exhibition was a phenomenal promotion for Vietnamese art, international fairs are the best publicity. The

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people milling about at art fairs, dealers, collectors, museum curators and general art lovers are the first ones to notice changes and new developments in the art world.

The first Vietnamese gallery to participate in an international art fair was Galerie Quynh. From 2010 to 2012, Quynh Pham had a yearly booth at Art Hong Kong, the original Hong Kong art fair. “In those three years we saw very few Vietnamese visitors,” says Quynh. But she did sell to a small number of Vietnamese from the diaspora, and, of course, to non-Vietnamese. Now in their tenth year of operation, the gallery is working hard in Vietnam to build trust with affluent locals, who are increasingly keen to learn about art.

From the Nineties to the Noughties Vietnam got richer. Not evenly or consistently, but on a high enough level to energise the country with the buying buzz.

But expensive handbags are higher up the Vietnamese shopping list than paintings, says Shyevin Sn’g, owner of VinGallery in Ho Chi Minh City. Like most other gallerists based in Vietnam, Shyevin knows that sales will often be better elsewhere. She has done art fairs in Korea, Singapore and, of course, Hong Kong.

Hers was the only Vietnamese art gallery in the luxury Hong Kong hotel that hosted the Asia Contemporary Art Fair in May of this year. At the fair, VinGallery received visits from a few Vietnamese who live in Hong Kong. Shyevin says, “They were very happy to see our gallery there, and came to say hello.” But they didn’t buy. “They think it’s cheaper back home.”

Foreign visitors who were curious about Vietnamese art were surprised to actually see some. Lots of questions were asked, especially about lacquer painting. Sales were made, with Hanoi landscapes making it to the bestseller list.

But an increased profile for Vietnamese

art meant VinGallery had competition. A number of Hong Kong galleries who deal in Vietnamese art were also exhibiting.

Craig Thomas knows this from personal experience. His Saigon-based Craig Thomas Gallery, which shows Vietnamese art exclusively and celebrated its fifth anniversary last month, participated in the Affordable Art Fair in Hong Kong this year and will be returning next year. The well-organised fair, he says, attracted a large number of buyers from China.

The International Connection Decades after his Plum Blossoms success, artist Nguyen Trung’s work is still shipped to Hong Kong. His latest abstract canvases and sculptures were admired mere weeks ago at Art Basel. Cuc Gallery from Hanoi was the only Vietnamese gallery to participate in one of 2014’s most prestigious art fairs worldwide. Asian collectors, savvy about the cultural and historical value of Trung’s work, took out their credit cards.

Evidently, art collectors are interested in Vietnamese art. But all the gallerists mentioned here agree on one thing, that the collectors of Vietnamese art are rarely Vietnamese.

“Hong Kong is the biggest banking centre in the world. It’s a good market,” says Suzanne Lecht. “Vietnam is a small market.”

She compares the situation to Japan in the 1980s. Rich Japanese would only buy artworks by Matisse or other famous names because their worth would be known.

“It’s the same in Vietnam now,” she says.

Like Shyevin, she understands that the shopping priorities of wealthy Vietnamese are geared towards status symbols. The solution to keeping the best Vietnamese art in Vietnam, then, must be to brand Vietnamese art as an object of desire on a global scale.

Top: Pham Minh Tuan Countryside (1997)

Left: Thanh Chuong Self Portrait (1997)

Right: Pham Quang Vinh In front of The Alter (1995)

Images provided by Suzanne Lecht

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LEISURE FISHING & SHRIMPING

Taking the B a i t

ing joints in Saigon The fishing are a disappointment, appointment, right?

As Markk Allan discovers, come prepared and they’re anything but.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy

I

have always enjoyed fishing as a recreational pastime and distraction.

The premise of angling is the challenge rather than the culinary objective — catch and release. I like both.

This article started when my editor assigned me and our photographer Kyle to accompany our guide and recreational angler, Mark, to find some good fishing and shrimping spots within the city. Although Mark was a recreational angler in Canada,

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he didn’t catch any fish for the first six years here in Vietnam. However, fishing is now big business and there are a growing number of dedicated fishing ponds, perfect for anglers like myself, and of course Mark.

Pork, Shrimp Paste and Bamboo Our first spot, Dong Dieu, was in District 8, a 15-minute ride from downtown Saigon.

I have been to this place before — together with a friend I spent six hours drinking

VND10,000 beer. Yet we caught only two fish, not even 250g worth.

According to Mark, most of the fish that at these places are pacu fish — a South American freshwater fish related to the piranha family — as well as many different types of tilapia and Mekong giant catfish, a species in danger of extinction.

Within 20 minutes Mark had caught a 2.5kg pacu — even our beers and coffee had yet to arrive. Using his own professional

rod he was able to cast further out into the water than the standard bamboo rods for rent. He also used some unconventional bait — thit suon (grilled pork). The bait is normally shrimp paste rolled up into balls or fresh shrimp meat — both are available for purchase at the pond. But for Mark it wasn’t good enough. He demonstrated the superiority of his barbecued pork not long after when he caught what looked like a small version of the Mekong giant catfish.

Plying away with my bamboo rod and my rolled up shrimp paste, I was still empty handed.

Two other Vietnamese anglers close by got their catch — one a 6kg tilapia and the other a 5kg snakehead. Both were using professional rods and a range of fishing lures. This confirmed my belief that the rods and bait are vital, even in dedicated fishing ponds. Although according to Mark early morning is the best time for fishing, I

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attribute getting that catch to other factors.

With our two hours over, we explored the shrimping area, a small covered pool. It was full with a fairly large group of people, mostly couples. The property here is vast, with areas to suit both individuals and groups. The service, however, is slow — best to stock up on beverages at the makeshift shop next to the shrimp pool upon arrival.

Shrimp Cocktail Our next destination, Thanh Truc, is an indoor shrimping spot where the pool is situated in the centre of the space with surrounding tables and chairs. It boasts a newly built karaoke area, an extensive seafood menu, exotic meats and various shrimp cocktails and a mostly attentive female staff. The cost for an hour’s shrimping is VND90,000 — although if you

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make a catch, you pay for the crustaceans and get your hour for free.

Shrimping is both easy and kid friendly, and this spot would make for a good Saturday or Sunday afternoon break with family and kids. Within five minutes of our arrival, the staff showed us how easy it is to catch shrimp, bagging 10 of the creatures with the bamboo rods and worm bait — all provided. In case you get bored with the crustaceans, they also have free Wi-Fi. Leaving Thanh Truc we headed to Thap Nga, a recently opened, lavish fishing spot and restaurant. The place is enormous.

From the entrance to the table we chose in the centre was a five-minute walk — had we known, we would have used the free buggy service provided to the designated area. We were greeted by 10 waitresses, all clad in Japanese school girl-style uniforms

with full-length stockings. Quick service is a priority here — several waiters were on roller-skates and bicycles.

Browsing through the menu it became clear that fishing was only of the attractions of Thap Nga — exotic dishes and cheap beer are also part of the allure. The menu included ca mat quy (devil-faced fish), ca chinh (eel), ca duoi (batoidea or ray), heo toc (wild boar) and heo sua (suckling pig). To be on the safe side, we opted for the spare ribs.

With the sun high in the sky now, Mark cast his line without any hope of catching anything worth keeping — at this time of the day, the big fish usually go deeper to avoid the sun. Yet after 15 minutes he caught a 3kg pacu. Many people had told me that the various fishing spots in town contained very little fish. Yet already I could see that the pools were well-stocked and the fish

“Shrimping is both easy and kid friendly, and this spot would make for a good Saturday or Sunday afternoon break with family and kids”

well-fed. After all, if you don’t make a catch, you’re unlikely to come back for more.

The Garden of Relaxation It was now running late and with one final stop to make before sunset, we headed to Vuon Thu Gian.

Arriving after 4pm there were few people out for that afternoon catch. Besides ourselves there were a couple of anglers and to our surprise a group of westerners drinking beer rather than fishing. However, according to Mark, at the weekends Vuon Thu Gian is a hotspot for families and couples wanting a bit of privacy. It is also popular at lunch with many regulars.

For me the problem was not the lack of people, but the service — the waitresses although attentive seemed disinterested, perhaps because of the day and time. As

for the menu, the food on here was typical with a variety of poultry such a duck and pigeon, as well as squid, octopus and frog.

Unlike the two other previous places the menu did not have pictures and was only in Vietnamese.

And yet this is one of Mark’s favourite spots — not because of the intimacy but because of the catches. Here he’s made a few big ones, something to keep him coming back for more.

Going to fishing ponds in Ho Chi Minh City is not just about the all-important catch, but recreation. They’re places where families and couples can go catch not just fish, but a few hours away from the daily grind. Another version of quan nhau or bia hoi joints, the difference is the leafy, pond-filled environment and the fact, of course, that you can fish.

Information T HAP N GA

168 Nguyen Huu Tho, Xa Phuoc Kieng, Nha Be, Tel: (08) 62712712 thapnga.com

T HANH T RUC

793/35/4 Tran Xuan Soan, Q7, Tel: 0974 799669

D ONG D IEU

33/2 Cao Lo, Q8, Tel: (08) 2431 2949

V UON T HU G IAN

Nguyen Huu Tho, Cau So 2, Phuoc Kien, Nha Be, Tel: 0989 770450 thugianthuanviet.com/ nha-hang-vuon-thu-gian

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LEISURE Stop 1 Bien Dong Restaurant, 8 Einstein Street, Thu Duc There seemed to be no immediate explanation for why there is an Einstein Street at all in a place like Thu Duc. The proximity of some nearby universities may have something to do with it, but Hi-Tech Park, a future metro stop, isn’t exactly close by.

Bien Dong was proposed by Paul Blake, an American working as an English teacher in neighbouring District 9. Blake often refers to District 1 as being too western, so we took his advice to try out this beer-and-seafood quan amid a number of fancy coffee shops and imported beer joints.

“I climbed that tree one night,” he said, pointing. “And instead of kicking me out,

HO CHI MINH CITY

The Insider’s Guide to Thu Duc With multiple metro stations on the way and a developing road infrastructure, Thu Duc is closer than ever to Ho Chi Minh City. Harry Hodge and Amanda Saxton investigate a district on the rise.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy

W

hen we elected to take on a feature on Thu Duc, I don’t think we were quite prepared for the vastness of the district. It really is its own city, with a population nearing 500,000, set to boom once the Ho Chi Minh City Metro opens multiple stations there in a few years.

The flip side of exploring uncharted terrain is the people this charting will bring. On this trip, a couple of the foreigners who tagged along voiced worry that any publicity about

some of the places we visited would “ruin it” for them. Then I scooped everybody in the contingent with a trip to the student village at Vietnam National University, and they had to admit there’s a first time for everything.

After the bustle of the first stops, the tranquility of the other parts of the district further removed from the Hanoi Highway proved what a diverse and interesting place Thu Duc is — not just remarkable for outer Saigon, but for all of Vietnam. — Harry Hodge

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they put a table underneath in case I fell.”

Unsure of Blake’s account, but never one to deny his behavior, his anecdote seemed to prove itself as one party-hard patron was carried by with the help of some waiting staff — at 3pm. I can only imagine what it’s like at 8pm.

“I think this is a nicer area,” Blake says.

“You can get good beer here, and I like the coffee shops.”

The six of us scarfed down a plate of tamarind wings, grilled squid and snails, and some Sapporos and Saigon Reds for VND343,000 all told. An affordable and certainly authentic Vietnamese drink-anddine hangout. — Harry Hodge

Stop 2 Café Tram, 132 Thong Nhat, Thu Duc Not wanting to drink my face off in the surprisingly varied Einstein warren of pubs, we settled on a next stop at the arty Café Tram. Owned by screenwriter Le Kim Hung, it was the little touches that made this dark, mellow coffee shop so chilled out. Walking across stones with fish lapping at the edges, you feel like you’ve wandered into a sort of beatnik enclave, replete with original artwork on the walls, exposed brick and flowers in coloured bottles.

In the plus column for Café Tram were soothing tunes and a lack of smoke. With a cafe sua nong priced at VND33,000, and nothing breaking the VND50,000 mark on the menu, our group rated it a thumbs up.

A more sedate crowd was hanging out this particular Sunday afternoon, including stockbroker Tran Anh Tuan. After a week making deals in District 1, he likes to spend his weekends in the more laidback vibe of Thu Duc. “In the future, when the subway comes, Thu Duc will be popular,” he said through

a translator, estimating he visits Café Tram twice weekly. “It’s cheaper out here.”

“I think the food is cheaper in Thu Duc than District 1, and it’s more quiet (here),” said Lam Dinh, a 26–year-old accountant originally from Bac Ninh Province, who lives minutes down the road. “I think the weather is good because we have a lot of trees.”

She also felt the district was growing in numbers compared to when she first moved there, due to the roads making the area more accessible to Binh Thanh, District 2 and elsewhere. — Harry Hodge

In League with Einstein Other notables in the Einstein neighbourhood: D RINK ! B EER G ARDEN and P HA K E C OFFEE S HOP on Hoa Binh; I B EER P UB at the corner of Einstein and Thong Nhat; and N ICE C OFFEE on Khong Tu.

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Stop 3 The Vietnam National University Student Village, 6 Quarter, Linh Trung Ward, Thu Duc Within moments of pulling onto the placid campus of Vietnam National University exhortations of “oh man, everything’s so cheap!” rose from our travelling contingent.

This is not a huge surprise, since the population living around and between different faculties is overwhelmingly peopled by students.

Faculties here include universities for natural sciences, technology, social sciences and economics, in addition to an environmental institute and a medical school. It is also home to the Ho Chi Minh City High School for the Gifted.

As such, cheap dining options, clothing shops, bookstores and cafés are scattered

throughout the campus area — just on the other side of the highway from District 9’s Suoi Tien Amusement Park. On a crossroads of sorts, some streets are Thu Duc on one side and Di An Town, Binh Duong Province on the other.

Highlights here include an outdoor student market with lots of cheap snacks and clothing — my wife found skirts for VND40,000 and my travel buddies sourced a hearty plate of vegetarian food for VND8,000. A bia hoi we elected to stop at cost only VND4,000 for a glass of fresh beer.

If you’re on a budget in Thu Duc, there are worse places to be than on campus. — Harry Hodge

Stop 4 Temple Tour Thu Duc is also home to a number of temples, as we discovered driving around the western edge of the district, where bridges connect it over the Saigon River to Binh Thanh. While this area is largely dotted with simple one-storey family businesses and factories, there are some notable temples here to break up the shopping and eating.

Van Duc Temple (502 Tinh Lo 43, Thu Duc) boasts one of the tallest non-residential structures in the district, at the intersection of Ngoc Van and Cay Keo. The portrait of Thich Tri Tinh, the Supreme Patriarch of the National Vietnam Buddhist Sangha, remains on display there after the venerable religious leader’s passing in March, at the age of 97.

Monks go about their business as visitors

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Stop 5 Lakeside Sundowner Hidden within Thu Duc’s labyrinthine university campus, Ho Dat Café perches on the shore of a small lake. Getting there is an adventure! An opportunity to experience the extremes of Vietnamese roads — from the Hanoi Highway to a bumpily bucolic track — and practise the lingo: “Ho Dat Cafe o dau?”

If you crave peace and fresh air — as surely everyone in Saigon must — this rustic café is worth the journey. Huddles of hammocks with stone tables, sat among eucalyptus and jackfruit trees, cater equally well to social clusters, workers and nappers.

Gather up a picnic of street snacks and fruit from stalls you pass along the way, and then enjoy Ho Dat’s VND12,000 cafe sua da or a fresh coconut.

There is food on the menu here, but its chances of materialising are slim. Tranquillity, on the other hand, is guaranteed. Far from traffic and mercifully free from any 1990s pop, the only soundtrack Ho Dat provides is the occasional student strumming a guitar.

Packed dirt floors and a view of fishermen wading with nets through the lotus-filled lake make one feel far from modernity, yet the Wi-Fi is strong and discretely dangling extension cables abound. The only reason to leave is fear of the WC. To leave: find your way back to the university’s main entrance on Highway AH1 and turn left. At the huge cloverleaf junction, follow the signs back to Cau Sai Gon. — Amanda Saxton

Photos by Amanda Saxton

freely wander the grounds and garden in the back, with the property open from 5am to 9.30pm, with a 90-minute lunch interval in between. It is a colourful place of worship, heavy on golden motifs and temple details and significantly quieter than some of its District 1 counterparts.

Other notable places of worship in the area include Minh Gian Temple (212 Hiep Ninh, Thu Duc) and An Lac Temple (434/6 Kha Van Can, Thu Duc). Considerable roadworks in the area makes the latter difficult to get to. As the city expands, the new Pham Van Dong Ring Road, which leads straight to Tan Son Nhat Airport, will eventually connect to Binh Duong and Dong Nai Provinces. — Harry Hodge

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LEISURE

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CLIMBING

In Search of Meaning (on a Mountain) Daniel J Daniel Jenkins enki kins h heads eads tto o tthe he rremote emote b borderlands orderlands o off L Lang ang SSon on tto o cclimb limb tthe he ccli lis aatt the byy Nguyen the village village of of Huu Huu Lung.

Lung. Photos Photos b Nguyen Le Le wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 101

A

fter an easy two-hour car trip we arrive at Huu Lung, a tiny village nestled in a valley framed by towering limestone cliffs. Huu Lung is not so much a town as a small collection of cement houses close to Lang Son, about 120 kilometres from Hanoi. It is a place remarkable for three things: its beauty, its remoteness, and the fact that its cliffs have been bolted by a bunch of western rock climbers. I am with these climbers now, ready to ascend.

We approach the cliff face on a narrow path, which weaves between cornfields and rice paddies. I notice two graves on my right and hope they’re not those of previous climbers. The cliff looks menacing, rising grey and mottled above us like a weathered tombstone. “I’ve broken six bones,” says Thien, a muscular Vietnamese climber who also rides motocross. “But none of them from climbing.”

Our leader is Jean, the affable Frenchman behind VietClimb. Jean is both an astute businessman and an advocate of climbing, having grown his business, and climbing in general, over the last three years. “There was no word in Vietnamese to define rock climbing when we started,” Jean says. “We’ve come a long way.”

And he plans to go further. There are hopes of a future partnership with OXFAM, in which they would set up

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a homestay at the Huu Lung site. This would bring much needed revenue to the local community.

Looking Up My neck strains upwards as the cliff falls into shadow. A series of bolts runs up the cliff face — ‘tracks’, I am told — and under each track, inscribed in the limestone, is a name. The Metaphysics of Morality, reads one, War and Peace another. The person who first ascends the track after it’s been bolted gets to name it, explains Jean. The Metaphysics of Morality and War and Peace are his. “You know Kant?” he asks. I tell him I do but the conversation tapers off — as it often does when Kant is mentioned — and we prepare to climb War and Peace.

Vissay, a man of untraceable origin and a former movie star (“I was always the villain!”), is on his first outdoor climb, and he is clinging nervously to the side of the cliff.

“Arms straight! Stay on your toes! Small steps! LEGS!” shouts Jean, and eventually Vissay negotiates the ‘problem’ and continues triumphantly upwards.

“What if I see a snake?” Vissay yells down.

“You fall,” says Jean under his breath.

Vissay makes it to the top and everyone applauds. There’s a sense of achievement in the 40-degree air, a sense

“I look to see what loftily named track I have climbed — The Critique of Pure Reason perhaps, maybe In Search of Lost Time — I read the name under my track: You’ve Gotta be Pulling my Dong” of camaraderie. What is at once a very solo pursuit becomes communal — the ropes, the cliff, the people, the weather — all combine into a transcendental unity. Or perhaps it’s just the heat.

I ask Vissay why he climbs. He laughs: “Jean is very persuasive.” He is smiling like he’d just conquered Everest, or finished an entire Tolstoy novel. “It’s like you’re a kid again,” he says, “back to the wild.”

self-consciousness, and suddenly all I’m aware of is the cliff face — the sharp tickle of

You’ve Gotta Be… Next, I’m told, it is my turn to climb. It is Saturday morning. I’m hungover, and have just ingested 60mgs of codeine — I was in no state to hang from a cliff face. “I’m a journalist! A passive observer!” I protest, but to no avail. Soon I’m strapped in, helmeted, shuffling nervously up the side of a mountain. “Don’t judge me,” I plead through rasping lungs, “I’m a heavy smoker.”

“You’ll be fine,” says Gaille, my belay, lighting up. “We don’t judge.”

As my feet find the right crevices, and my hands explore unseen holes, the sounds below begin to fade, along with my

limestone on my fingers, the handcuff clink of carabiner on rock — and I begin to see the

reason we are here. Like trudging through the pages of Kantian wisdom, this is an endeavour in which the reward lies in the effort put in. And the views are stunning.

But my foot slips, my arms ache — I can go no further. “That’s enough!” I yell down, letting Gaille take the weight. I abseil happily down, like Zarathustra returning from the mountain. I look to see what loftily named track I have climbed — The Critique of Pure Reason perhaps, maybe In Search of Lost Time — I read the name under my track: You’ve Gotta be Pulling my Dong.

By around 2pm we head back to the cement house for a brilliant lunch. On the way I talk to John, a climber from the US who, when back in Florida, only climbs indoors. “Why?” I ask.

“There are no mountains in Florida,” he says drily.

“Yes,” I agree, looking up at the twin peaks that encage the tiny village.

Mountains are important.

VietClimb run regular trips to Huu Lung, as well as other awesome outdoor sites. For more information go to vietclimb.vn

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Food & drink

F

inding good ice cream in Hanoi can be a challenge, given the lack of quality ice cream places here.

Most local stores serve overly sweet ice cream without a distinct taste.

The following ice creams, including both locally made and foreign products, are among the few that are worth a try.

Minh Thi gets the scoop on the cream of the crop, just in time for a scorching summer.

Photos by Teresa Welleans DESSERT

Hanoi’s Best Ice Cream

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Kem Dua

Kem Oc Que Trang Tien

Bao Oanh Cafe, 7 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh (opposite Truc Bach Lake) While the place has a prime view of Truc Bach Lake, customers complain about not-so-clean chairs and hawkers who stand outside the café and try to get people inside. Still, it’s worth going for the unusual speciality: not the ice cream with coconut flavour that you may be familiar with, but milk ice cream served inside a coconut and topped with dried cherries, shredded mature coconut, raisins and a little peanut.

At the price of VND70,000, the ice cream isn’t cheap but the quality of the green coconut is far superior to that offered for VND50,000 at the famous establishment on Hang Than. Use a spoon to scrape out the gelatinous, creamy and tender coconut meat and eat it with the ice cream and a touch of cherries or raisins. Coconut heaven!

Kem Trang Tien, 35 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Every Hanoian knows about Trang Tien ice cream. Ask anyone you find eating the ice cream there and they will likely tell you a story about how the ice cream store is linked to their childhood. Since 1958, the store has been popular with kids. It’s where parents often take their kids to reward them for good behaviour or a good mark earned at school. Consequently, it’s almost always crowded, especially right after working hours when adults leave the office and pick up their kids from school. Sometimes couples who wander the area of Trang Tien also end their dates with an ice cream there.

Kem Trang Tien is served as a takeaway, but most Hanoians just stand there and eat.

While the place offers various flavors such as green rice (kem com), green bean (kem dau xanh) and coconut milk (kem sua dua), it’s the kem oc que that is most popular and makes the place famous. Kem oc que is so simple — either vanilla or chocolate served in a cone, with no additional ingredients — that one might wonder why it’s so famous. It may not be right for demanding gourmets who look for a special treat made in heaven. Yet, at the price of only VND12,000, it’s affordable simplicity at its best.

Kem Xoi

Gelato Italia

Bud’s Ice Cream of San Francisco

Corner of Hai Ba Trung and Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem A popular hangout among high school students, the store at the corner of Hai Ba Trung and Phan Chu Trinh offers a wide range of snacks and junk food. The most well-known of them all is kem xoi, or ice cream with sticky rice, which is served in a very small bowl for VND15,000. The mix between sweet ice cream and sticky rice may sound strange, but it’s a pleasant surprise, offering a textural contrast enhanced by toasted coconut chips. The street food vibe is also enjoyable, with everything served at basic plastic tables on the pavement. The easy, friendly atmosphere and affordable price reminds you why simple street food is so popular in Vietnam.

31 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Want something more premium?

Conveniently located in Tay Ho where most of Hanoi’s expats live, this new joint offers 18 flavours from standard vanilla and chocolate to mango, rum, green tea and hazelnut. The ice cream is of far better quality than that found at most local ice cream stores. Flavours like green tea and mango have rich and distinct tastes that remind you of the inspiration behind them; we say you can’t go wrong with the hazelnut. Prices are quite expensive (VND50,000 to VND120,000 depending on how many scoops you order), but the premium gelato is definitely worth the expense. We recommend sticking to two scoops so the flavours don’t overwhelm one another.

17 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem This US brand has a number of stores in Ho Chi Minh City, but only one in Hanoi.

It could be a people-pleaser, except for the relatively high price. The quality is good, though nothing special, and the range of flavours is limited, but there’s a surprising richness to it: try the ice cream mixed with fresh cream and bananas (VND60,000 to VND150,000). Bud’s is also a good place for relaxing and chatting with friends, indoors or outdoors, in the heart of downtown Hanoi.

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Food & drink

PARTY TIME

Oh, This is Ladies’ Night

L

It’s Tuesday, or Wednesday or Thursday, and you’ve got your heels on and nowhere to go — well, that’s not quite true ladies, as Margaret Smith and Aimee Millwood have lived to attest

adies’ nights in Ho Chi Minh City are one of those things that girls brag about to their friends back home [editor’s note: Margaret is from Wisconsin]. “They have this thing here called

‘ladies’ night’, and you drink for free. Now, I’m not joking, you drink for free. Until like, midnight. Tequila shots, mixed drinks, mojitos… I know, I know, it’s amazing.”

The free alcohol may be the draw, but

there are many different factors that make or break a good ladies’ night experience. With bitchy bartenders, inebriated co-patrons and loud music, how much fun can you have on ladies’ night?

Ho Chi Minh City

The Original The Bro Bar

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1

Beer Pong It’s Fun 6/33 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1

THE SPECIAL: Ladies drink

THE SPECIAL: Buy-oneget-one games for groups with three ladies or more.

mixed drinks and juice. We recommend going along with the fun though, and ordering beer.

OVERALL EXPERIENCE: 3/5 stars — Beer Pong It’s Fun is a great time if you go with a group of friends. But you can only do one thing here, and that’s play beer pong.

THE RUNDOWN: Beer Pong It’s Fun isn’t big or well known.

Tucked in an alley near the CMT8 roundabout, it’s a small, brightly lit operation that specialises in one thing — beer pong. Five to six long tables take up a majority of the space, with patrons crowded around to cheer on each game.

THE DRINKS: You can get other drinks at Beer Pong It’s Fun, like cocktails,

for free every Tuesday from bar opening until midnight. Free drinks include glasses of wine (red and white), beer, mixed drinks, tequila shots and Jäger bombs.

are no real bartenders at Beer Pong It’s Fun. You can go to the cashier station at the end of the bar and order, but usually servers come up to each table and take your order for beers and games. Everyone is polite, and servers usually pick up stray Ping-Pong balls and wash them during the middle of games — a nice touch.

THE MUSIC: There aren’t any DJs here. Instead, music is played from a computer, and usually it’s top-40 hits or techno. They seem to have a volume problem, and it’s either unbearably loud or too quiet.

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BE WARNED: The final halfhour free drink rush is the worst.

THE BARTENDERS: Lush

OVERALL EXPERIENCE: THE BARTENDERS: There

Be prepared to wait longer for your drink the busier the night gets.

4/5 stars — The wide array of free drinks means that it’s easy to have a good time, plus you can jump from room to room if you want to dance or socialise.

THE RUNDOWN: With three rooms and four different bars, Lush is one of the best known clubs in Ho Chi Minh City. Its ladies’ night is arguably the biggest and most popular in Saigon. If you’re looking to have a big night, this is the place to go.

THE DRINKS: It’s safe to say that mixed drinks, shots and beer are a good bet, but we recommend avoiding the wine, which is the cheap stuff (Dalat?).

seems to have a females-only bartender protocol on ladies’ night, and they’re not necessarily nice or personable. We can’t blame them, though — it’s usually a packed house, with patrons constantly bombarding them. If you want nice, prompt service, we suggest flashing a VND10,000 to VND20,000 tip when you want to grab a drink.

Men are always served first.

THE MUSIC: Lush plays a combination of top 40, K-Pop, techno and early 2000s hits.

The music is loudest in the middle room, which houses the dance floor and quietest in the back, where patrons can sit and socialise.

Illustration by Henry Ginsberg

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Photo by Francis Xavier

The High Life Level 23 Nightspot and Wine Bar 88 Dong Khoi, Q1

THE SPECIAL: Ladies get two free cocktails every Thursday night from 8 pm until bar close.

OVERALL EXPERIENCE: 2.5/5 stars — A nice space with a great view, Level 23 has lots of potential. But the sweet drinks and lack of crowd make for an experience that’s a bit lacking.

THE RUNDOWN: Level 23 is on the 23rd floor of the Sheraton Saigon. With both a balcony and indoor club, it offers a great view of the city and plenty of space for both chilling and partying.

Unfortunately on a Thursday night, their ladies’ night crowd is pretty sparse.

THE DRINKS: Usually cocktails

at Level 23 run VND185,000 to VND220,000, so the ladies’ night special is a nice deal.

Unfortunately most of the drinks we tried were a tad too sweet.

The Bloody Mary was decent, though, and came with a hefty piece of celery.

THE BARTENDERS: Bartenders interact very little with customers, as it’s the cocktail waitresses who take orders and serve drinks. They’re very polite, although service can be a bit slow.

THE MUSIC: A mix of bassfilled V-Pop and top-40 hits, the music at Level 23 is actually a lot of fun, and spurred a few patrons to hit up the otherwise empty dance floor.

Party All Night Want to keep the party going? Here are some more bars to get your free drink on in Ho Chi Minh City.

S IN L OUNGE

22 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 T HE SPECIAL : On Wednesdays before 10.45pm every group of four or more ladies gets a free bottle of Ciroc.

V ELVET

26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 T HE SPECIAL : Every Wednesday girls can get either free drinks from a special menu or a free bottle for groups of four or more. Choose wisely, because you can’t do both!

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The Sophisticate Blanchy’s Tash 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1

THE SPECIAL: Free mojitos for ladies every Wednesday from 10pm to midnight.

OVERALL EXPERIENCE: 3.5/5 stars — Blanchy’s Tash is fancy and fun with good drinks, but you can’t dance anywhere very easily. It’s also a bit annoying that you can’t get free drinks on the roof.

THE RUNDOWN: Blanchy’s Tash is known for catering to a more upscale crowd. Their ladies’ night is on the main floor only — a space more set for talking and mingling as opposed to all-out clubbing.

THE DRINKS: Available mojito flavours include passion fruit, traditional and lychee. We

recommend the passion fruit mojito, which really tastes like passion fruit, as opposed to the lychee, which is a bit too sweet.

Usually it takes one to three minutes per drink.

THE BARTENDERS: The bartenders are split along gender lines, a nice change from Lush. The male bartenders are always nice, well-mannered and prompt. The female bartenders are the best, though — having fun, smiling and dancing behind the bar.

THE MUSIC: Expect a mix of hip hop, R&B and urban, mixed with some top-40 hits to keep the crowd happy. The music is pretty loud though, so it’s difficult to talk.

THE SPECIAL: Every Thursday, cocktails and mocktails are buy-one-get-one, and all wines are 10 percent off for ladies. Come dressed in pink and get a free special cocktail.

OVERALL EXPERIENCE: 3.5/5 stars — The discounts aren’t as good as other specials, and the vibe isn’t that of a typical girls’ night out.

THE RUNDOWN: Polite Pub is one of the longest-running venues in Hanoi, and it remains a staple stop for locals and established expats. It’s a good place to go if you’re looking for high-quality whisky, cigars and billiards.

THE DRINKS: Although the

Photos by Andy Crompton

ladies’ night special isn’t as good as some of the others and the drinks are anything but pub priced, they are well worth it.

You get what you pay for at Polite Pub, and the free drink is worth putting on pink for.

THE BARTENDERS: Although the venue is small, it’s rarely too crowded for the attentive and quick bartenders to manage.

THE MUSIC: The top-40s-

The Unwind Polite Pub 5 Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

Hanoi

L

adies’ night in Hanoi tends to be more subdued than the allyou-can-drink debacle in Ho Chi Minh City, but don’t worry girls, it’s still possible to

heavy mix sometimes has hints of popular lounge, electronic and house tunes. The music doesn’t seem to fit the setting, but the quiet volume is welcome respite from other high-volume venues in Hanoi.

have a lively ladies’ night out.

Hanoi has plenty of established ladies’ night specials, and fresh ones cropping up routinely.

Here’s a taste of what Hanoi is throwing your way.

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The Posh

F1 Club 15 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem

THE SPECIAL: All night long on Wednesday, free flow mixed drinks for ladies, or, groups of four or more girls get one bottle of vodka.

OVERALL EXPERIENCE: 4.5/5 stars — If you’re looking for a classy girls’ night out without the pretentious attitude of other clubs, look no further.

mixed drinks are simple but generous.

THE BARTENDERS: The lounge has one main bar, staffed with male and female bartenders. It normally only takes a few minutes to get drinks, depending on how crowded it is.

THE MUSIC: Head DJ and THE RUNDOWN: The recently opened OST Center Lounge and Bar has quickly made a name for itself. They keep the drinks flowing even when it isn’t ladies’ night — with a free flow on Thursdays for VND199,000.

THE DRINKS: The free flow

co-owner Cuong Bie spins a versatile mix of house music.

In classic Vietnamese style, the music starts loud and increases in volume as the drinks flow, but unlike many other Hanoi venues, there’s an escape from the noise on the rooftop terrace that looks out over the Old Quarter.

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How to Get a Drink on Ladies’ Night As a lady, getting a drink on ladies’ night shouldn’t be that difficult, right? Wrong. Unfortunately bartenders will usually skip over you for patrons that are actually paying for their drinks.

Want to get your free drink as fast as possible?

Here’s what to do:

— P AY

A TIP . Even something as small as VND10,000 to VND20,000 can make the difference between a bartender stopping your way or passing you by.

— S WITCH

BARTENDERS

EVERY FEW DRINKS .

If you’re going to the same person every five or 10 minutes, chances are they’ll catch on and make you wait a bit longer.

— M AKE

EYE CONTACT . If you lock eyes with a bartender they can’t avoid you forever. I KNOW YOU SAW ME.

— BE

POLITE . This one is a bit obvious. If you’re nice and not waving your hand in everyone’s face all the time or shoving your way to the front, chances are bartenders will be nice to you back. A lot of ladies tend to forget this…

Illustration by Henry Ginsberg

“They have this thing here called ‘ladies’ night’, and you drink for free.

Now, I’m not joking, you drink for free. Until like, midnight. Tequila shots, mixed drinks, mojitos… I know, I know, it’s amazing” wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 111

Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER HANOI

Nan N Kabab

Serving fare from the Middle East, India, Pakistan and Afghanistan, Nan N Kabab offers a welcome alternative to cuisine in the capital. Our secret reviewer spills the chilli. Photos by David Harris

W

hen the mayo-laden layers of doner kebab banh mi don’t cut it anymore, head to the Syrena Center on Xuan Dieu for an altogether different dish that goes by the same name but bears little resemblance to the Vietnamese sandwich. I’m not suggesting you enter the mall; instead, veer to the side, where you’ll find Nan N Kabab, an unassuming joint located in what used to be Ba Chi Em, a bun bo nam bo and pho ga restaurant at the end of a row of tiny shops.

Surrounded by green trees and dangling vines, the quiet patio dining area has a pleasant, laid-back vibe. The bamboo chairs and tables appear to be a leftover from Ba Chi Em, although the patterned fabric and colourful posters draped in improvised fashion over the bamboo walls makes it clear that this is no longer a Vietnamese eatery.

As the name of the restaurant suggests, the menu is basic — essentially grilled flatbread and grilled meat — but the flavours are authentic, something hard to find in Hanoi.

Chicken seekh kababs (VND145,000) are marinated in a chilli-laced paste and grilled until golden but still tender.

They’re served without the skewer, which makes them easy to wrap in broad triangles of nan.

Servers have a reasonable grasp of English and are helpful and accommodating. The menu, however,

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needs to be organised in a more comprehensive fashion. Kababs are thrown haphazardly onto the page; as a kabab novice, I wanted to know the difference between the multiple varieties so I would feel less like I was ordering blindly. The menu offers several types of chicken kabab alone; what differentiates them? Country of origin? Flavourings?

Some indication of spice levels could also be useful. While I (a person with self-described moderate spice tolerance) found the chicken seekh kabab just spicy enough to satisfy, a friend with zero spice tolerance nearly started to cry. She preferred the succulent chicken reshmi kabab (VND135,000), which offered a similarly complex flavour with a hint of garlic and almond but no chilli throb.

Made for Sharing On the face of it, the kababs are also a bit pricey when compared to Indian restaurants in town like Khazaana and Namaste. But don’t be fooled. It’s done differently here — the portions are more generous and easy to share.

So pricewise it’s not so different. Each dish also comes accompanied by a flavourful mint-coriander chutney and a crisp salad of tomato, onion and cucumber. Ask for yoghurt sauce — a thin but creamy accompaniment that can also help dilute any incidental chilli burn.

If your mouth is still on fire, you can

also try the mint lassi (VND45,000), a tangy, cooling yogurt drink with a refreshing hint of mint. The nan bread can also kill the heat, although it’s different to those at other Indian restaurants in town: thin rather than fluffy, without the uneven char from the grill that usually provides that smoky flavour. And the filled nans are meager, especially the cheese nan (VND80,000), which comes with a measly scattering of shredded cheese rather than the gooey filling of melted cheese one envisions.

A large bowl of creamy homemade hummus garnished with lime and olives (VND85,000), however, nearly atoned for this error. Rich and garlicky, it evoked the seaside vistas of the eastern edge of the Mediterranean; it was easy to wipe the bowl clean.

There are slim pickings for vegetarians — something fried in batter and called ‘vegetable cutlets’, a few paneer and vegetable dishes. A dish of vegetables tossed in turmeric and curry powder and grilled like kababs (VND100,000) feels a bit overpriced: maybe the spices need to be imported, but the cauliflower, eggplant and pepper surely come from local fields.

Still, it’s a decent vegetable plate, filled with spices and the smoky char of the grill, and with the green trees and the breeze of the electric fan, it almost feels like you’re in the countryside.

Nan n Kabab is at 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

THE VERDICT

12 FOOD

10

SERVICE

9

DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

STREET SNACKER HANOI

Pho Ga Tron

A variation on the noble pho, pho ga tron is popular with Hanoians in the summer months. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by David Harris

P

ho originated in the early 20th century in the northern province of Nam Dinh, and has since become a signature Hanoian dish. Over the past century it has developed a diverse range of variations. Not only are there pho noodles with broth — pho bo (beef pho) or pho ga (chicken pho) — but other offerings such as pho cuon, pho chien, pho xao and pho chay. Among these diverse choices, pho ga tron or mixed pho with chicken is a modern variation on a traditional favourite. If pho ga is eaten at breakfast to start off a new day, then pho ga tron is its younger sibling, best eaten for dinner.

With a changed way of combining ingredients, the cool mixed noodles are more suitable for the hot summers than its version with hot broth. Rich in taste, light but appetizing, pho ga tron is the perfect choice for the sweaty Hanoi weather of June, July and August.

The main ingredients of this modern variation of pho ga are simply noodles and chicken meat. The chicken is boiled to retain the sweetness of the meat, then cut into slight pieces. The noodles are quickly scalded in hot water, then dressed with a layer of chicken fat so that they are

both soft and crunchy, as well as rich in taste. Vegetables and herbs are added to create balance. But like many other mixed dishes — think mi quang — the key to a tasty pho ga tron lies in the sauce, which is the catalyst to bringing all the ingredients together in harmony.

Pho Hanh Among traditional pho eateries in Hanoi, Pho Hanh (65 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem) is a firm favourite in the summer. Walking along the Chinese medicine street, thanks to the crowds sat outside on the requisite tiny plastic chairs, the eatery is unmissable. Its signature dish, pho ga tron Lan Ong is famous for its appetizing sauce and quality chicken meat.

“We have been selling pho here for many years,” says the owner. “When we opened we were a small vendor, and our family used to sell traditional pho ga like many other shops. Then we started noticing that the preferences of our customers changed with the season, so we decided to make pho ga tron for the summer. But the soul of the traditional pho ga is still there.”

For customers, the taste of the chicken meat is one of the eatery’s selling points.

Instead of using fatty or industrial chicken, ga ta or chicken raised in the countryside is used. The taste of this type of chicken is richer, but not because of its fat — it never feels greasy. The skin is crunchier while the meat is firm. “The chicken wings and legs are perfect for pho ga tron. Either is good.

But you have to use ga ta.”

The other standout is the sauce — a perfect blend of sweet, sour, bitter and fat.

The sauce is made from chicken broth.

“The sauce cannot define the character of the dish if it is does not go with the vegetables of Vietnam,” explains the owner. “Fried onions, papaya salad and traditional herbs like peppermint and sweet basil add to both the look and taste of the meat, creating an appetizing mixture.”

Pho ga tron is served up with a small bowl of broth for diners — many preferring something with liquid to finish off the dish. Like traditional pho ga, it is also paired with quay or crispy fried breadstick. It’s an alluring combination.

Located at 65 Lan Ong, Pho Hanh opens at around 6.30pm every day and serves customers until late. Pho ga tron costs VND40,000 a bowl

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 113

Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER HCMC

May Restaurant & Bar Our undercover reviewer heads to the river end of Dong Khoi to check out a restaurant and bar with an international feel. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

A

fter last month’s missed deadline, my editor was in no mood to play games. From the photos to the communications with the owner to my communications with Mr. Editor it was a disaster, and we eventually left the piece — and my paycheck! — dead in the water.

“This time we set it up properly,” he told me. “No last minute decisions of which restaurant to review. We plan. Got it?”

I nodded in muted response — after all, the blooper was my fault. I waited for the tirade to continue. It didn’t.

“The place I’ve got in mind has an interesting history,” he continued. I was all ears. “But let’s not go there. I think it’s best to do the review on what you experience when you actually go there.”

“But to write a review I need some background,” I retorted. “You can’t let me go in there blind.”

“Blind you will enter, and unless you discover anything otherwise, blind you will leave.”

And with that statement he turned back to his computer and waved me away.

Casual Comfort The restaurant, or more aptly restobar in question was May, an acronym for Me and You. And after the escapade of the previous month, I decided to pay two visits. And I decided to get in there early.

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My first trip was with a friend and what struck me was the décor — the key features here are the lightbox-lit, yellowflecked and amber-studded walls. Creating the dull, subtle lighting that lends the space its atmosphere, this is complemented by a background of lounge music, red swirly-patterned bar stools and armchairstyle seating surrounding dark-wood coffee tables. In terms of décor and style, the three stories of this venue would be at home — there’s something casual yet business-like about the space, and it’s very comfortable. Instead it’s landed in Saigon, and if my chicken parmigiana (VND195,000) was anything to go by, landed with a very welcome, hearty bump.

But that was the problem, so caught up was I in conversation that as I devoured my parmigiana — it was truly excellent — and noticed how well the red uniforms of the waitresses blended in with the colour scheme, I forgot to take notes or watch for details. All I remembered was the extensive wine list, the expensive yet tastefully chosen selection of imported beers and the tapas menu. So on my second visit I went solo.

Set Vs. A la Carte One of the difficulties and yet pleasures of May is how extensive the menu is. There must be almost 100 dishes alone, making

it difficult to know what to choose from.

And yet there is so much promise as you read through page after page of options, that you know that if your choice this time round is good, then you’ll be coming back for more.

Fortunately May also puts on a nicely priced set lunch at VND199,000 with far fewer options, making choosing just that little bit easier.

Not being satisfied with just the set, I also ordered a beef carpaccio (VND195,000) and found myself wellrewarded for my gluttony. Served up with crumbled blue cheese, parmesan, capers, salad greens, a large wedge of lime on the side and doused in olive oil, it was a more unusual version of the light but tasty carpaccio. Tart yet salty, the thin strips of beef burst with the cheese-influenced flavours. The dish went down seamlessly — the perfect starter. There was just enough on the plate to whet the juices, but it was not overly heavy that it filled you up before the meal even commenced. A great start.

From the set menu I hit the avocado and poached egg salad starter. It arrived bunched up in a small attractive mound of salad with grated carrot, sliced onions and green peppers to add to the lettuce, avocado and egg, while the poached egg was runny and mixed nicely with the

avocado. But the sweet salad dressing was too sugary for my taste. I know Vietnamese like to have sugar in their dressings when they make a xa lach dau dam or mixed salad, but for me, no. Still, it was dutifully devoured.

The main course — grilled chicken stuffed with mango — was a better option. The mango sauce added a nice, sweet touch to the savoury chicken breast.

My only quibble? The spinach rice turned out to be spinach sticky rice. I’m not a fan of xoi, and if I’d have known this, I would have opted for an alternative. But it was still a good dish and I almost wiped the plate clean. Almost.

With the meal finished off by a perfectly acceptable tiramisu, what struck me here was that the quality of the a la carte dishes versus the set lunch. Both a la carte options I tried on my two visits were excellent. My friend on my first trip went for the steak and eggs May Breakfast (VND220,000), which he also complimented. And yet while it was value for money, the set lunch didn’t live up to the promise of the other fare I had tried.

I think that if the set lunch drew from dishes on May’s lunch menu such as the cottage pie (VND165,000) and the chicken cordon bleu (VND175,000) rather than trying to do something different, and if it was priced slightly higher, then I think it would work much better.

With a number of Asian specialities on the menu together with international comfort food such as burgers, rack of lamb, pizza-style flatbreads and steaks, all costing between VND200,000 and VND500,000, this is what May should be focusing on. Because from my two visits, a la carte comfort food is what it does well. In fact, it does it very well.

May is at 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686. For more information go to mayrestaurant.com.vn

THE VERDICT

13 FOOD

11

SERVICE

14 DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

fashion

Some look to body language for deeper truths.

With some people, you don’t have to look even that far.

Photos and makeup by Francis Xavier Modelling by: Hannah Jefferys and Vu Ha Kim Vy Nail designs done by Fame Nails (18 Pham Hong Thai, Q1, HCMC) famenails.com Accessories by Anupa (9 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC) anupa.net

Ring: VND12,600,000 | Pen Case: VND1,300,000 by Anupa

Left Maudrey Top: US$75 | Monloic Shorts: US$65 Right Mary Top: US$75| Maemily Pants: US$75

Rings: Rose Gold: VND12,495,000 White: VND15,600,000 Blue: VND10,200,000 Green: VND15,645,000

by Anupa

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 119

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Bag Hanger: VND495,000 by Anupa

fashion insider

THE MANY FACES OF VIETNAM

The Fashion Designer One of the ďŹ rst fashion designers to emerge out of the new era of Vietnamese fashion, despite national acclaim, Ha Truong remains close to her roots. Words by Hoa Le. Photos by David Harris 122 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

“O

ver 20 years ago, you would never have thought that making someone else look beautiful could become a way to have a career. No one would believe that.”

So says fashion designer Ha Truong.

Born in Hanoi in 1978, her career as a fashion designer has brought her fame and fortune. But as a child, it was not something she would ever have dreamed about.

While in other parts of the world, names like Coco Chanel or Yves Saint Laurent were becoming as iconic as the products with which they were associated, so in wartime Hanoi, ‘fashion designer’ wasn’t even a job title. As the 1970s moved into the 1980s, agriculture and heavy industry were seen as the most effective means to shake up the economy.

“My family didn’t have money,” recalls Ha, the brains behind her self-named brand and now the newly appointed art director for Allura. “My father was 50 years older than me. He participated in the French War, so he was already retired when I grew up and couldn’t help me much financially.”

Having no money meant no computer, no trips to the cinema and no new clothes.

“All I knew about the world came from my television, which had limited channels and only occasionally broadcast foreign movies, usually musicals.”

As a teenager, Ha’s favourite pastime was making clothes for herself and her family out of pieces of cloth she took from her mother’s wardrobe. She would also imitate the kind of ‘punk’ outfit she saw Madonna wear on TV. But, beyond that, making clothes was no more than a hobby.

At the age of 15, she started working as a tutor to earn money to support her family. She chose to major in English at university and started teaching English at a high school after graduation. The turning point came soon after.

“In 2002, through the contact of my [Scottish] boyfriend of the time, I submitted my first fashion collection to the Italian embassy for a special fashion week event,” she recalls.

“I’d only made clothes for myself and later for my boyfriend — he liked [what I made].

So I was extremely happy when I was chosen to be the only Vietnamese designer to have a collection on the same catwalk as many of the world’s top brands such as Valentino and Versace.”

Encouraged by the positive feedback of the audience, Ha decided to pursue a career in fashion. She took courses to learn how to sew, cut and design, and in 2003 opened her first brand — Mirrormirror. In 2004 she won the best young Vietnamese designer award at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Awards in

Singapore. Ha then moved to Paris to study fashion and in 2008 opened her second and most successful brand to date, Ha Truong.

Edgy, Clean-cut, & Chic In Ha’s design, the two most prominent colours are black and white. With her designs regularly featured on the most prestigious fashion stages in Vietnam — Dep Fashion show, Elle and F shows — she has created a bold style of edgy, chic ready-towear apparel for men and women. Often praised for their clean-cut, minimalist influences, the designs focus on form and cut, rather than details or decoration.

“I have [strict] standards,” she says.

“Everything has to be perfect, from the stitches through to the form — everything.”

Ha’s clothing has also found its way outside of Vietnam, having been exported to Australia, France and Singapore. Sometimes it’s the Chinese neck made of leather that creates waves; sometimes it’s the embroidery on silk that gives her the success.

Conquering the Challenges What made up for Ha’s lack of material values and opportunities in her childhood was her open-minded personality, or as she puts it, “the hunger to learn new things”.

This has always kept her moving forward.

Once judged negatively for hanging out with people who were ‘different’ from what was deemed to be a ‘normal’ set of acquaintances, Ha Truong believes her choice of friends has increased her experience of life. “I had friends who were motorcycle racers. I also had friends who were intellectuals. I knew them as who they are, how they treated me. And that’s how I learnt.”

When asked about the difficulties of working with celebrities in Vietnam — a number of other fashion designers have been caught ‘copying’ designs in order to satisfy their customers — Ha agrees that it is sometimes very challenging.

“Many celebrities are still careless and follow a trend without really knowing what they want,” she explains. “They think that they can make the same clothes [that other people are wearing overseas] at a cheaper price by using local designers. For me that’s insulting. So I always reject those types of orders. And even when they’re difficult to reject, I always give the designs some sort of twist to make them different and more attractive — whether it’s in the fabric or the cut. Luckily, I don’t receive those orders very often.”

And with that honesty, her brands continue to grow. Her most recent spring-summer collection builds up an image of independent, dynamic, sporty and chic women. Perhaps it’s just another reflection of herself — a mother of two, a devoted yogi and a DJ, all in one.

“‘I have [strict] standards. Everything has to be perfect, from the stitches through to the form — everything’”

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travel

FAMILY TRIP

In Thailand with Holga Julie Vola voyaged to The Land of Smiles with her Holga, a Hong Kong-built plastic camera that looks like a toy 124 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

The Holga

F

or our annual family vacation, my afternoon during low tide. From the parents, my Holga and I went to Railay boat we mounted a tractor trailer for a in Thailand. bumpy ride to the peninsula’s eastern shore. Railay East isn’t a beach, but a The Two Sides of Railay declining mangrove on the waterfront.

From Krabi we took a long-tail boat to get Seeing garbage lying about in between the to our destination. Although Railay isn’t an mangrove roots was quite a shock, but it island, it feels like one; it’s a peninsula cut made sense. The east side is both cooler off from the mainland by high limestone and cheaper than its west side compatriot, cliffs. We arrived in the middle of the with small shops, travel agencies, some

The Holga was created in 1981 and is a medium format film camera made in Hong Kong that is part of the Lomography family. It is almost entirely made of plastic, even the lens. It’s that very plastic lens that gives the camera its default: blur, vignetting, light leaks and other distortions. This poor aesthetic is what made it popular among photographers.

It’s a very simple camera with only a few settings, putting most of the control on the type of film you use. This keeps you from overthinking settings and allows you instead to focus on creativity.

There are many variations of the Holga: flash, no flash, coloured flash, pinhole, panoramic, twin lens reflex, 35mm adapter and more.

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 125

medium-priced resorts and reggae-style bars.

Our resort was located in Railay West, neighbour to five other high-end resorts whose clients were made up of couples, honeymooners and young families. At first glance the beach was stunning; the perfect Thailand picture postcard. Long-tail boats lined up along the shore, the sand was white and the sky had that perfect mix of clouds and azure blue.

Railay West is also known as Sunset Beach, and it’s true. Every night saw an amazing sunset descend over the peninsula. As dusk began to fall, people would gather on the beach with their camera at the ready. My father would ask me for advice on how to set up his digital camera and how to compose his shot. He would then shoot at least a hundred photos.

On a Long-Tail Boat After a couple of days lazing around between the pool and the beach, we decided to take some trips to the nearest islands. I organised the tours with the boat captain directly at the only small shack on the beach.

We left at 7am each day to catch up with the tide; it’s early but worth it. Being on a private tour allowed us to stay as long as we wanted on the beaches we liked, avoid the ones that were too crowded, and enabled us to go to places off the beaten track for photos.

The photos I took with my digital camera were great, but I couldn’t see myself in these photos — they were too perfect, too much like a postcard. They lacked feeling.

Luckily I packed my Holga. It’s a toy camera with a plastic lens and without many settings, only focus, sun or cloud aperture and flash. By camera standards it has a lot of defaults. But I like it that way.

There is something poetic about a Holga and in Railay it allowed me to recreate my private state of mind: an expressive escape from reality. It let me create images that reflect my thoughts, feelings and memories.

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“Luckily I packed my Holga. It’s a toy camera with a plastic lens and without many settings, only focus, sun or cloud aperture and flash. By camera standards it has a lot of defaults. But I like it that way” Information B OAT T OURS

There are tours you can do to two groups of small uninhabited islands with beautiful white sand beaches when the tide is low; the Chicken and Poda Islands Tour and the Hong Islands Tour. The best way to go is to rent a private long-tail boat for the day from the little shack on Railay West Beach. That way you can negotiate directly with the captain of the boat.

A CCOMMODATION

Budget options are mostly located in Tonsai Beach and start from around US$21 (VND441,000) a night; mid-range options cost from US$50 to US$90 (VND1.05 million to VND1.9 million); luxury goes for as much as US$700 (VND14.7 million).

E ATING

AND

D RINKING

If you want to eat outside a resort you have a few options on Railay West’s walking street and a bit more in Railay East.

R OCK C LIMBING

Railay is one of the best-known climbing areas in the world with more than 700 routes, all with amazing ocean views.

Some rock climbing operators in Railay East and more on Tonsai offer courses to beginners and intermediate level climbers, with options for the experts. If you are a hardcore climber, Tonsai Beach is the place to go.

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 127

travel

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AIRLINES

travel

AIR ASIA

DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI – MID-RANGE / HANOI – BUDGET / HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE

$$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three– night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.

CUC PHUONG

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006 cucphuongtourism.com

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 02183 825662 etoile-des-mers.com

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.

In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031) 388 0888 pearlriverhotel.vn

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: (0218) 386 8959 maichaulodge.com

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108 novotelhalong.com.vn

TAM COC GARDEN RESORT Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249 2118 contact@tamcocgarden. com tamcocgarden.com Surrounded by rice fields and spectacular karsts, Tam Coc Garden is a haven of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.

Spacious rooms with rustic and chic décor, a pool with breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic views over the fields and mountains. The perfect place to relax.

128 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

HANOI - INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel. com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women.

Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.

The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites con-

tain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental. com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake.

Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi. com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/ vn

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown.

In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines. com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerair.com

VIETJETAIR www.vietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

travel

Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.

The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique.

Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms start-

ing at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt.

The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.

The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

$$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

REX HOTEL

EQUATORIAL

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2185 rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now five-star property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - DELUXE CONTINENTAL

SHERATON

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5517 majesticsaigon.com.vn

NORFOLK HOTEL

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:

(08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

EMM HOTEL 157 Pasteur, Q3 A sleek, contemporary three-star hotel that mixes vintage appeal and modern chic thanks to a subdued palette of white and grey around two ‘pop’ colours: azalea pink and green hot pepper. Part of the Thien Minh Group that includes

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417 riversidehotelsg.com

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 129

DESTINATION ZERO AN LAM SAIGON RIVER

A

n Lam’s private residences may only be a few short kilometres from the nonstop rough and tumble of central Ho Chi Minh City, but when pulling up by boat to its tranquil docks perched along the riverbank, few places feel further away from the urban jungle than does this peaceful corner of the Saigon River.

Although now one of Saigon’s most luxurious getaways, An Lam began as a local man’s best kept secret.

Nestled in emerald foliage, the site on the Binh Duong side of the river was originally a single hidden villa — a secluded weekend getaway for An Lam’s founder, Mr. Lam, and his family. Eventually, the villa would become the family’s permanent residence, but eager to share the jungle sanctuary, one by one new villas were soon constructed. Each was deliberately designed to pay homage to the surrounding natural beauty that would eventually inspire the resort’s name — an for peaceful, and lam for nature.

Seclusion and Harmony Now home to 15 villas nestled into the lush jungle brush, An Lam maintains its air of secrecy and seclusion. Every element — from the warm wooden interiors to the woven bamboo accents — is crafted in perfect harmony with its natural surroundings. Modern simplicity is mixed with charming Asian motifs like the outdoor bar’s glowing jewel-toned lanterns, which dot the overhanging canopy of lush jungle trees.

But perhaps the most beautiful element is the location itself — nestled along the Saigon River and peering out across the silent waters. The soundtrack of chirping birds and the lapping of water under the docks couples perfectly with the gentle, constant flow of the river.

When it comes to what makes An Lam Saigon River so uncommonly peaceful, maybe Hal Boyle says it best: “What makes a river so restful is that it doesn’t have any doubt — it is sure to get where it’s going, and it doesn’t want to go anywhere else.”

Sitting on the docks at An Lam, there’s certainly nowhere else you’d rather be. — Karen Hewell Get more information at anlam.com

travel

Photos provided by An Lam

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 131

travel

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS THE POWER OF LINES

BY ETIENNE BOSSOT

I

n composition, lines play a great role.

They give direction to your photo, create something for your eyes to follow and lead to the subject or a point of interest. This makes the photo easier to look at and to understand, and much more pleasant on the eye.

Lines are also a very efficient way to give depth to the image by, for example, using a road or buildings. Combining lines with depth of field give the final image greater depth. But there is much more involved when applying lines to people and portraiture photography.

Lines and Portraits Keeping this in mind, it is interesting in portraiture photography to combine shapes and lines, with the power of colours.

Warmer tones are associated with hard and straighter lines. Cooler tones could be associated with more round and curved lines.

Adding Feeling Lines will give your photo feeling as will shapes — there are direct, straight, hard lines, and there are also round, soft and curved lines.

Straight and direct lines will make the image more dynamic — this is used a lot in landscape photography, as are triangles or ‘hard’ shapes.

Round and curved lines, on the contrary, will give a softer feeling to your photo, and will create on the level of consciousness a more relaxed atmosphere. Circles are shapes that we associate with a soft and calm feeling.

A good example of harder and very directional lines is the triangle. While it gives a great dynamism to the photo, it

132 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

may be more suitable to action images, something including movement.

Combining triangles with warmer colour tones (red, orange, yellow) will increase this dynamism and feeling excitement.

On the contrary, the portrait of a young child with soft or tired eyes is better matched with round and curved lines, as well as cooler color tones (blueish).

Of course, this is only theory, and does not have to be applied to each portrait (and definitely cannot be applied on each portrait). But it is interesting to keep it in mind while criticising your own photos. You will realise how colours and shapes on the subconscious level provide indication of the subject’s mood.

To get in contact with Etienne, email info@ picsofasia.com or go to picsofasia.com

travel Victoria Hotels and Buffalo Tours.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC - BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com

CUA DAI

$ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 354 5105 domainedetamhai.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 391 4555 life-resorts.com

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the white sands of Bac My An beach close to both Danang and Hoi An, the welcoming and modern Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for a dynamic escape. Perfect for a family holiday or a romantic beach getaway.

Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/ lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

LA RESIDENCE

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre– programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT AND SPA Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510) 392 7040 victoriahotels.asia

HUE & LANG CO

$ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA

$$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/ destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view.

Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

$$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses.com/resorts/ ninh-van-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler maga-

zine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 382 0999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

$$ Tel: (058) 384 0501 whaleislandresort.com

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 374 3777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,

www.cocobeach.net

paradise@cocobeach.net

Coco Beach Resort

58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien Phan Thiet, Vietnam +84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 133

travel BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine.com

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222 princessannam.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY

$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com

PEPPER HOUSE

$ Tel: 01678 731560 pepperhouse-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367

Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.

5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT

$$ Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5999 phongnhalakehouse.com

SAIGON - PHONG NHA

$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo. com.vn

THANH DAT

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7328 thanhdatphongnha.com

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged.

Discount rates during rainy season.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates.

The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

with their own pool and have direct access to the beach.

Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia

VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: (077) 399 5895 centarahotelsresorts.com

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com

LA VERANDA

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 398 2988 laverandaresorts.com

CON DAO RESORT

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$

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$$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come

REX HOTEL

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao

THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include a 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.

The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful.

BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXOTISSIMO 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours.

Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and In-

tercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

(04) 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for.

Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE BEENINASIA.COM www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours.

Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

EXOTISSIMO 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotissimo.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/ vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures.

With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:

CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING SERVICE 11th floor, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, District 1, HCMC Call center: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com info.en@chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best prices and reliable service.

If you are looking for great local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.

It has been the #1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.

travel

TRAVEL PROMOS

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

FLY VIETNAM flyvietnam.com

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

Vous Spa in the Novotel Nha Trang

Ascott Turns 30 the-ascott.com/30years The Ascott Limited’s luxury serviced residences have come a long way from their start 30 years back — and 20 years in Vietnam — and in commemoration of this anniversary they’d like to share in their progress. So log in, online members, and get 30 percent off Ascott’s best rates for over 30 countries until Dec. 31, and Link Club members, get used to 30 percent breaks off your redemption points between now and Sep. 30.

The past was great, but it seems Ascott’s future is bright.

Novotel Danang novotel-danang-premier.com Lucky you, you’re sticking around for the summer. But luckily, beach paradise is only a flight away, and the Novotel Danang will reward you once you arrive. On offer is a spa-inclusive package — book two nights starting at VND2,449,000 per night and receive 30 minutes of foot massage at In Balance Spa and daily breakfast for two — as well as a stay-three-pay-two package,

which does what it says on the tin, starting at only VND2,082,570 per night. These offers work through to the end of August, so give yourself time to get bored before giving the Novotel Danang a look.

Cross-country Deals @ Victoria Hotels & Resorts victoriahotels.asia Victoria Hotels & Resorts is offering promo packages on all of its Vietnamese properties, from the beaches of Phan Thiet to the hills of Sapa. At Victoria Phan Thiet Beach Resort & Spa, stay two nights and only pay for one. If you’re the last-minute type, book a last-minute stay at Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa and get an extra 30 percent off. Or, if you prefer hills to mountains, books two nights at Victoria Nui Sam Lodge and receive a 25 percent discount.

There are similarly generous offers on until Sep. 30, so check the website to find the deal for you.

La Residence, Hue

TU TRAVEL

you’re not a Vietnam part-timer, and La Residence wants to reward you for your rainy-season/ humid-Hanoi commitment. Those with proof of residence qualify for a summer escape at up to 50 percent off, with cool extras thrown in like free breakfast and dinner, and VND500,000 spa credits for each of you thrown in.

The special rate of VND2,940,000 net per person on a two-night river view room package — based on dual occupancy — is valid until Sep. 20.

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure. com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead the way.

Spa-liday @ Novotel Nha Trang novotel-nhatrang.com Novotel Nha Trang’s Vous Spa wants to get you loosened up for July — with a full-body package of body massage, facial and body scrub for only VND1,490,000 net. And once you’re feeling the results, spring out of bed for their early bird promo — 50 percent off any treatment from 9am to 1pm booked one day in advance!

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

la-residence-hue.com If you’re around for summer,

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 135

Hanoi

COFFEE CUP // RECALLING HANOI // THE PROMOTIONS // TOP EATS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

136 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

hanoi

old quarter

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

BARS & CLUBS CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01679 647254 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi.

The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3292 7614 8pm to late

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor.

Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA BOMBA LATINA

LATIN BAR 46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0917 245155

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL RESTOBAR 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2104 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104

MOJITO BAR

CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR 19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/mojito.bar. lounge Decked out in wooden pan-

elling and bare brick, this tastefully designed watering whole in the Old Quarter is known for its prize-winning bartender and excellent cocktails

verted, colonial-era villa, the concept of the third Joma is the same as at its two other cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter, and a great selection of sandwiches, bagels, salads, cakes, ice-cream and tea.

smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

THE CART

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu.

SPY BAR

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802

TEMPLE BAR

NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6675 7908

TET BAR

LATE-NIGHT BAR 2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3050

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight

CAFES CAFE PHO CO

COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153

JOMA

INTERNATIONAL CAFE 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem joma.biz Housed in a two-storey con-

COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

(04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOO SKATESHOP

SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month

with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com The downtown store of this well-known chic boutique.

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. Offers both ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards.

Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

THREE TREES

JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

CRAFTS & FURNITURE MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and

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COFFEE CUP OZONE CAFE

I

’m usually not one to follow in the footsteps of hipsters, but when I do I expect them to lead me to damn good coffee.

Hanoians will be glad to know that the day I was led to Ozone Cafe, the city’s newest hipster hangout on Dien Bien Phu, I was relieved to find another space worthy of a place on my list of top coffee haunts.

Located directly opposite the city’s reigning hipster stronghold, otherwise known as The Kafe, Ozone offers four levels of comfy lounge space and worthy iced lattes to shield you from the sweltering summer heat.

What No Burberry?

Macbook Airs and tortoise-shell may be overly represented here, but don’t let

138 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Teresa Welleans

that put you off completely. The upper levels have been fitted with Ikea-inspired wooden crates that have been pieced together to form intimate booths ideal for working, socialising or even napping.

The atmosphere is vibrant without being obnoxious and laid-back enough to allow you to slip off your shoes and put your feet up. When things cool down outside, there are also two funky outdoor areas to soak in (some of) the fresh air.

The industrial-chic design and postmodern prints may convince you (at least after waking from an accidental doze) that you’ve landed in Brooklyn. And thanks to its clever design and sound-proofed interiors, it probably won’t be until you head outside into heaving peak-hour traffic that you’ll realise you’re actually in Hanoi.

The cafe offers a mix of western food options, including a range of burgers, pizza and pasta dishes should you choose to dine-in, while the downstairs dining areas are also well equipped to accommodate entourages of any size, big or small.

The menu serves up a pretty standard combination of blended iced drinks, sodas and desserts that you can expect to find in similar Western-style cafe houses dotted around the capital. And with coffee lounges a dime a dozen in Hanoi, it doesn’t necessarily offer anything unique.

But what it does, it does well. And is that really such a bad thing? At the very least, the coffee is definitely good enough to make Hanoi’s top baristas a little hot under the collar. — David Mann Ozone Café is at 21B Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh

hanoi Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards.

Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar.

Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm A slither of a joint serving up the same fare that the lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm

GREEN TANGERINE

FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639 10am to midnight

LITTLE INDIA

INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1859 littleindianhn@gmail.com

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce.

Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-

floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.

LITTLE HANOI

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 8333 7.30am to 11pm

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery.

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and min-

iature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout.

Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

etarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com

THE KAFE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner.

Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

THE MOOSE AND ROO

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.

Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers.

Clever changing imagery on the walls.

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat. Features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has Asian favourites like veg-

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580

TANDOOR

PAN-INDIAN 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine.

Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAFÉ 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253

FITNESS & YOGA STUDIO FIVE

YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515 http://studio5.vn facebook.com/yogastudio5 6am to 8pm An international and professional Yoga Studio providing more than 20 different yoga styles such as: Hatha Yoga, Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga, Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with infrared heater), Power Yoga and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes per day. Bring harmony back into your life — Studio Five is the perfect place to reconnect your mind with your body.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other es-

sential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

BACCHUS CORNER

WINE RETAILER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www. fivimart.com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 139

RECALLING HANOI PART THREE

L

andscape is entangled with history and people’s lives. No matter how young we are or what social position we have, we all have stories to tell.

Recalling Hanoi is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry weaved out of portraits, people’s stories and the urban landscape

that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell me about a place in Hanoi that holds memories. It can be about anything — a personal story intertwined with history; a great event; everyday little stories that our lives are made of. These stories, along with the photographs of the storyteller

and the location provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait of this city through its collective memory. The hope is that the audience will connect to other people’s lives and also to their own memories in an attempt to understand this beautiful city.

deserted at 3am so we could drive like maniacs — really fast. By the end of the night he gave me a ride back to Kim Lien and dropped me by the main street, which was just 2 alleys away from my home. My guess is that I didn’t make it because next morning I woke up in the back room of a candy store with a 90-year-old Vietnamese man standing over me giving me a glass of blackcurrant juice — a cure for

hangovers. He spoke pretty good English — he had taught himself from a computer program. He introduced me to his married daughter on vacation from Ho Chi Minh City and he videotaped the three of us speaking English. For half an hour I gave him a little English/computer lesson. He didn’t tell me what really happened, but it seems that I fell asleep totally drunk in front of the shop.

Bret A Night in the Candy Store Location: Luong Dinh Cua In 2006, four months after my arrival — now it has been seven years — I was drinking too much and several times a week was out until 4am. I was living in Kim Lien (near the French Hospital) and drinking in the Old Quarter at Half Man Half Noodle or Barracuda (the old Dragonfly).

My Vietnamese friend and I were driving around on his Minsk. The city was

hanoi

BY JULIE VOLA

Hiep The Haunted Embassy Location: Corner of Van Bao and Van Phuc I have been selling tra da here for more than 10 years. The abandoned building at the corner used to be the Bulgarian Embassy, but before that it was a cemetery. When they built the embassy they moved the cemetery somewhere else, but some tombs remained because they couldn’t find the families.

The Bulgarian government paid 50 years rent upfront, which is why nobody can do anything to this land until the lease ends.

It was said that there were sleeping quarters in the basement of the embassy.

Every night at midnight the beds would move, they would stand vertical — no one could see how it happened. At a

Christmas party a secretary heard a strange noise, he tried to move and see where it was coming from, but then he was paralysed without any reason. The embassy stayed in this spot for only one year and then it moved down the street.

A few years ago two young people climbed over the fence to look for ghosts.

Just after they left the building they were in an accident and both died. I know this because I saw the accident. Three years ago a monk came to try and chase the ghosts away, no one asked her to come, she just knew. She talked with them and diminished their power, but they are still here.

Ghosts are people who did bad things in their life, or people who have regrets, they need to finish something and they can’t move on. They bother the living.

They are probably angry because someone disturbed their graves. I have a small altar for offerings on the tree for good spirits and ghosts to protect me and my small business. I am lucky the ghosts at this building leave me alone.

This is the third excerpt from Julie Vola’s work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is presently being serialised in Word. For more information email juls.vola@gmail.com

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hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)

hoan kiem

THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi.com

L’ESPACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT / CLASSES / GROCERIES & LIQUOR

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FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am La Fée Verte (or the ‘Green Fairy’) is a metaphor for the decadence of another age, an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The signature bar of the Hotel de l’Opéra Hanoi where, just as in Paris at the dawn of the 20th century, the making of an evening drink a lavish event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge atmosphere, great music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine to bring a genuine sense of occasion to after-dark in the capital.

i Khả

CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

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WILD WEST THEME BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822

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MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late

PHUC TAN

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem

RELAX BAR

HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

ZONE 17

BAMBOO BAR 17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem The first bar in what will eventually (hopefully) be a

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CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

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PARIS DELI

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Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

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HOAN KIEM DISTRICT

zone dedicated to bars and restaurants. A pool table, a square bar in the middle of the room and a barbecue until the early hours — there’s quite an atmosphere in this pleasant watering hole.

CAFES CIAO CAFÉ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

TWITTER BEANS COFFEE 45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com

CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE

ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES AMERICAN CLUB

EVENT SPACE 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach.

In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down.

The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare.

Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contem-

porary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.

Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA BADIANE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night.

A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.

Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.

hanoi LE BEAULIEU

THE PROMOTIONS

CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm

PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.

Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

Daewoo Dishes Out the Summer Deals Hanoi Daewoo Hotel is keeping things sizzling throughout the month of July with hot deals on top-notch culinary delights. Café Promenade invites patrons to enjoy their delicious buffet options — including BBQ, premium meat and seafood, and homemade ice cream — while kicking back by the poolside, with their swim n’dine buffet promotion. Groups of three to 20 guests are welcome to enjoy the largest swimming pool in Hanoi with their reservation, not to mention the fantastic food.

Hanoi Daewoo Hotel is located at 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh. Find them online at daewoohotel.com

NINETEEN 11

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm

PANE E VINO

Fortuna Celebrates Summer Fortuna Hotel is celebrating the celestial tradition of mooncake crafting with their stunning selection of mooncake delights, available in the hotel lobby from Jul. 11. The cakes will showcase the most unique tastes of Asia, including lotus seed, yam, green tea and red bean, and will feature a time-honoured tradition of mooncake making during the summer months.

Mooncakes are priced at Bouillabaise fisherman soup at The Press Club VND650,000 per box — with 20 fisherman soup with garlic toast, their deals from Jul. 1 to Jul. 30 on percent discounts on those purchased ‘Coq au vin’ marinated chicken, grilled delicacies, as well a seafood before Aug. Fortuna Hotel Hanoi is and Provencal grilled lamb chops exclusive — Nha Trang lobster. located at 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh with thyme. With every main dish Throughout the month of July, Fruity Summer Treats comes a glass of Chateau Bouteilley, enjoy special deals on all ribs, for Hotel de L’Opera invites you to compliments of The Warehouse.

VND180,000++ per person. enjoy the sweet tastes of summer in The Press Club Hanoi is located Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is located at Hanoi with a month of their favourite at 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Get K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu fruity indulgence — lychee. Satine more information by visiting hanoiMing Restaurant’s Summer Restaurant will feature roasted pressclub.com Makeover duck braised with lychee dressing, Sheraton’s Tasty Month of Ming Restaurant, the Chinese alongside a portion of lychee sorbet.

July culinary jewel of Sofitel Plaza Two and three-course menus are Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is Hanoi, is celebrating the warmer available at VND250,000++ and celebrating the flavours of red, months of summer with a new VND350,000++ respectively. white and blue this month, with menu of over 30 dishes designed to Hotel de L’Opera is located at 29 exclusive deals on American compliment the season with light, Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem cuisine from Jul. 1 to Jul. 27 at luscious tastes. Signature dishes on The Press Club Celebrates Oven D’or Restaurant. Enjoy the new menu include sautéed fish French Flavour delectable BBQ ribs, pork and beef maw with caviar, double-boiled From Jul. 21 to Jul. 27 The Press alongside fruit pies and ice cream black chicken with conpoy and Club Hanoi is hosting French Food for VND620,000++ per person for oriental lamb chop with Mongolian week. The week-long event features lunch, and VND990,000++ per sauce, among many others. an exclusive a la carte menu of person for dinner.

Ming Restaurant is located on the much-loved recipes from the French Try something different at second floor of Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 countryside, including Bouillabaise Hemispheres Restaurant with Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.

Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PRESS CLUB

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list.

Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.

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PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226

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Lạ

WORK ROOM FOUR

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

BARS & CLUBS 88 LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029 88group.vn 5pm to late A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

WESTERN CANNED FOODS

GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

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HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,

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Ho

Tel: 01633 166170 hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@ hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho Open daily from 2pm.

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VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

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HANOI GOURMET

DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com The long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

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SUPERMARKET 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

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WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn

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DA LOC

BIKING CAFE so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho kub.vn Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole bringing that’s become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.

Does good on-the-table bia hoi and runs biking events.

BOOKWORM TOO

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SUPERMARKET Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

KUB CAFE

regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

BOOK SHOPS

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5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES

Qu ân

WRAP & ROLL

salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

tay ho

Lo ng

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com

Lạc

SATINE

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favorites. Nonsmoking, unpretentious, dog-friendly.

TAY TAP

MEET-UP SPOT 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917 4pm to late Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with

NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre.

With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts,

LA GRACE

ART CAFE & GALLERY 8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 666736 lagrace.com.vn 7.15am to 10pm Located on a peaceful street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van, La Grace is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: drinks, food, arts and sometimes live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue has a nice selection of juices and smoothies and a Vietnamese-cum-Japanese food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set lunches cost VND150,000, and the café also has strong WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.

Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ

ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday Cloistered among the back

streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an oldfashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

nary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE 68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.

The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CAFÉ / TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment.

Eclectic? Not a chance!

CLOTHING GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available at no extra cost.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam.com Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts.

This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

COOKING CLASSES HIDDEN HANOI

COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culi-

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BETTERWORLD

GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

LA CASA

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084 lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development nonprofit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories.

Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired.

Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS DON’S TAY HO

BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CYCLING COLLECTIVE 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles. To add to the eclectic, community spirit they also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin & tonic.

Quite a mix!

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake.

This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

DON’S TAY HO

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late.

Weekends 8am to late This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.

Add to this a backdrop of low

Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia.com Monday – Saturday 11am to 11pm. Closed on Sundays A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space.

The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer.

Has an extensive wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL

CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our

IL FARO

ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142 Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel, this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people behind Mediterraneo serves up an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italianinfluenced atmosphere.

INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An, Tay Ho eat.vn/indiapalace North Indian cuisine with views over West Lake, this revival of the India Palace of old brings the Indian subcontinent to Hanoi’s most popular suburb.

J.A.F.A.

INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheese-

hanoi

TOP EATS THBC SPANISH TAPAS BAR

“I

want to do a naked bike ride in Hanoi,” smiles Guim Valls Teruel.

We are eating tapas in the downstairs area of THBC, and mouth half full, I stop. For not the first time in his life Guim has come out with one of those leftfield ideas of his. It’s an idea that knowing Guim may well come to fruition — after all, this is a guy who’s cycled around the world not once but twice.

“You don’t actually need to be 100 percent naked,” continues the Catalonian.

“You can wear shorts or Y-fronts. What I want to do is make a skin-coloured body suit and paint on abs and muscles. Then it will look like I’m naked although I’ll actually be wearing something.”

It’s from another idea of his that Guim’s Spanish Tapas Bar has gradually developed.

What started off as a bicycle collective has eventually transformed itself into an Iberian-styled café, bar and restaurant, albeit still with a bicycle theme. The bicycle side of things has now moved to a dedicated shop on West Lake, a few doors down from Spanish compadres Chula. On this visit I’ve also ditched the bicycles and have come for the food.

146 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Nick Ross

“You’d get away with it if you do the ride on Middle Warp,” I say.

“No way. I want to do it in Hanoi.

Around the lake.”

From Tortilla to Octopus If the number of Spanish customers can act as a barometer, then Guim’s transformation has so far been a success. There have been a few worthy attempts in the capital at creating a tapas bar, but Spanish tapas has never quite worked here. Until now.

For me the key to making tapas is that Iberian staple, the Spanish tortilla or omelette (VND30,000 for a small portion / VND60,000 for a large). It’s one of those oh-so-simple dishes that is surprisingly easy to get wrong. Yet the mark of a good kitchen is one that keeps their tortilla moist, not overly garlicky, slightly sweet and soft. It musn’t be dry. Guim’s chef does this with aplomb and served up with bread scratched with tomatoes and olive oil (pa amb tomaquet in Catalan), the dish ticks all the right boxes.

Another of Guim’s dishes, the pulpa a la Gallega, the Galician octopus (VND71,000 / VND142,000), is also excellent. Served with slices of boiled potato and with the

whole dish drizzled in olive oil, Spanish hand-carried-into-Vietnam paprika has been sprinkled on top together with rock salt to give it some bite. The octopus itself is exceptional — supple, meaty and far from chewy — making this into a to-die-for dish. With some imported rock salt rather than the local version, it could taste even better. I tell Guim as much and he agrees.

Yes, it may be worth seeing what he can get brought in from Spain.

My other pick are the garlic prawns or gambas al ajillo (VND90,000 / VND168,000).

I’m not going to mince words — they are sensational. Garlicky, sweet, melt in the mouth and yet still slightly tough, the prawns are served up with the butter sauce in which they are cooked.

“I have a group of Germans come in here to drink beer,” says Guim. “They order dish after dish of the prawns. They love the stuff.”

As the food gets cleared away, the conversation returns to the naked bike ride.

Guim is obsessed.

“Will it actually happen?” I ask.

“Of course it will,” he smiles. — Nick Ross THBC Spanish Tapas Bar is at 44 Lane 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

burgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 53 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5656 8am to 11pm

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Set inside a newly renovated house with a large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.

R&R TAVERN

RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 8215 Now on its third location, this watering hole still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some quality live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events, while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.

RASA SINGAPURA

SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE 185 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3715 2992 rasasingapura-hanoi.com 5pm to midnight This Singapore Peranakan Restaurant serves up authentic, Straits fusion fare emanating from Singapore, Malacca and Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature dish, all the fare here is homecooked by the owner / partner who spent five years living and studying in Singapore. This is tasty, home-cooked, well-priced fare in a pleasant but tranquil setting.

SAINT HONORE

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, freshcooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as

sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da

THE PIE SHOP

TAKEAWAY PIES 2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 1507 thepieshophanoi@gmail.com Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style savoury pies and rolls. Available in three convenient sizes (mini, regular and large). Enjoy them hot as a takeaway, or frozen to keep for later.

THE SUSHI CLUB

CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE 10A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0934 544263 thesushiclub.info The Akataiyo Group has operated Japanese restaurants in Vietnam for over 10 years. Located up from Don’s, the latest addition — The Sushi Club — combines traditional Japanese cuisine with modern fare, serving up sushi, sashimi, ramen and gyoza. A comfy ambience, this eatery is perfect for dates, business dinners, meeting friends and family gatherings. Private rooms available.

EXPAT SERVIES MAID IN VIETNAM

HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3112 maidinvietnam.com Offering a licensed hire service for trained domestic and office housemaids, cooks and nannies.

Courses include health checks, housekeeping, safety, basic 1st Aid, courses for external maids and household management for Vietnamese wives of foreigners.

FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS

TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

HANOI CLUB

COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com

VIETCLIMB

CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS

ANNAM GOURMET

GROCERIES / DELI First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1791

KITCHEN ART

KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

L'S PLACE

GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

NATURALLY VIETNAM

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for

expats and Vietnamese.

PUNTO ITALIA

COFFEE MACHINES 62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

THE OASIS

ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case.

Free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

MEDICAL & DENTAL INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC

MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

ONE DENTAL CLINIC

DENTISTS 8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6168

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam.

The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

hanoi

THE ALCHEMIST THE CONSCIOUSNESS OF ANIMALS

I

was recently asked to provide healing to animals, wild animals nonetheless!

I’m not a veterinarian or a zoologist and I doubt the horsemanship training I did at summer camp eons ago would serve me much now. So, why was I asked to help with the animals? Holistic health care is becoming more and more mainstream, and many people do not view it as exclusive to humans.

When I ventured into the domain of holistic healing, the multidimensional aspect of life was laid out before me and I discovered it’s not only humans who have access or the birthright to a spiritual existence or a connection to the Divine.

When I was asked to work with animals on an energetic level it didn’t take me aback, it only exemplified how far I had shifted in terms of conventional wisdom. Hoping to do the most I could, I sought out the guidance of a colleague who communicates with animals. If I could communicate with the animals, they could express their needs and thereby greatly enhance my ability to help them.

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Talking to Animals…

How is it possible to communicate with animals? Volumes of compiled research has lead scientists to conclude that, “humans are not unique in possessing the neurological substrates that generate consciousness.”

It is known that animals from a wide variety of species experience emotions ranging from joy to grief, and posttraumatic stress disorder, along with empathy, jealousy and resentment. These characteristics describe animal sentience.

Pioneering cognitive ethologist, Marc Bekoff, defines animal sentience as “the ability to feel, perceive, or be conscious, or to experience subjectivity.” The European Union recognizes an animal as sentient if “it is capable of being aware of its surroundings, its relationships with other animals and humans, and of sensations in its own body, including pain, hunger, heat or cold.”

Hippocrates stated, “The soul is the same in all living creatures, although the body of each is different.” If we’re all the same, then we should be able to communicate. To

BY KAREN GAY

connect with animals one needs to quiet the mind in order to relate on a deeper level.

Changing our Perceptions Ancient and modern tribal traditions recognised the need for humans to remember and establish their deep connection to all of Life and Spirit. They did not see themselves as separate from other beings, instead they acknowledged the oneness of all, and this enhanced their physical, mental and spiritual health.

We need to see animals for the sentient beings they are and treat them with the respect that is their birthright. Whether they are our companions, working animals, or used in agriculture, or for research, we as humans all share the responsibility to ensure the humane treatment of animals. In so doing, we may recognize our common bond and thus perhaps find our way back to the wholeness of who we are.

Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

hanoi Reservations recommended.

ba dinh

MING PALACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

ên

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS BARBETTA

ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

SUMMIT LOUNGE

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday

BOOKSHOPS BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi

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CAFES CAFÉ GOETHE

ARTS CAFÉ 56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 7395

CONG CAPHE

hương

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

Đà n

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh (Next to the Flag Tower) Tel: (04) 3823 3339 highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

MANZI

ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES GOETHE INSTITUT

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE

COOKING CENTRE 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese

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Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre.

With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

Has a second shop in Tay Ho

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BOOKWORM

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VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 10am to midnight

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Hoàng Quốc Việt

ing an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

n Yê

BA DINH DISTRICT

Trần Nhân Tông

cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

EAT AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach.

In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Sell-

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space.

It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.

Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus.

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

FITNESS & YOGA N SHAPE FITNESS

MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats.

Also a 24-hour emergency service.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 149

hanoi

THE THERAPIST WORKING IT OUT

This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, talks about the need to be assertive in the workplace Dear Douglas, I have been living in Vietnam for about eight months now, working for an international organisation I won’t name. I am in a mid-level position, not unlike the work I have done for the past 12 years. I am going through an experience I have never had before and would like to get some perspective. I can no longer talk to my husband or teenage children about this. They are tired of hearing it.

I think the problem is my boss. He is so demanding and condescending that I am completely intimidated by him. Last week he was upset over a mistake I made and said, “I wonder if you are just stupid.”

I have been telling myself that the mistakes he points out are right and that I need to do better and work harder to make him happy. But now I am asking myself if he really should treat me, and others, like that. I am wondering if, maybe, I need to do something differently than to try to comply. I am constantly preoccupied with worries about the details of my job. I am sleeping poorly and not much fun for my husband and kids. I could never quit, but can’t imagine living like this for another year of my contract.

— Bruised and Confused

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Dear B and C, I am sorry to hear what you are going through, and yes, it is time to get some perspective about what is happening and what you might do about it.

Because managerial models are often hierarchical, we often believe that we should tolerate behaviour that is hurtful from someone who is above us in the pecking order. His behaviour sounds abusive to me and I will tell you why.

When someone attacks you as a person — saying you are stupid — they have crossed an important line. They are undermining your confidence and actually hindering your ability to do the tasks that define your work. The fact you are upset by this, not sleeping and feeling worried, while accepting responsibility to improve yourself, suggests to me that he is not being respectful and supportive. It appears he is caught up in a desire for power and control, at your expense.

Yes, you need to gain perspective that allows you to feel more empowered and to find a way to assert your thoughts and feelings to him about how his behaviour is affecting you.

You, we all have the right to let someone know if their behaviour hurts, irritates or upsets us. Your boss needs some

thoughtful, constructive criticism that will help you restore your confidence and to improve your effectiveness at work. A few sessions with a therapist might help you to find a way to communicate your thoughts and to help your boss see that being a ‘bully’ is really counterproductive.

Sometimes we respond to a threat with passivity because we believe to express our feelings means we are weak, or because we feel weak in the face of someone who uses their position and tactics to create fear. We accept personal (destructive) criticism because the other person was ‘right’ and therefore we have to accept what they are saying about us.

Passivity very often leads to the lowering of self-esteem and confidence, and can therefore diminish the strength we need to stand up for ourselves.

I encourage you to read up on the topic of assertiveness, to help yourself find a way to stop the dynamic that is doing you harm in the workplace. You do not deserve the treatment you are getting.

Be well, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com

elsewhere

A DONG PHOTO CO

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION

RECREATION KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL

BARS & CLUBS CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

VUVUZELA

MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm

FRENCH GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com/frenchgrill Every day 6pm to 11pm With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 10am to midnight

CAFES KOTO ON VAN MIEU

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HAM HANH

ARTSY CAFE 170 Doi Can, Dong Da The physical representation of arts, film and music collective, The Onion Cellar, this cafe with multiple areas is as left field as the people who created it.

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space.

It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday

SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn

11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

rant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restau-

ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK

ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

NGUYEN CAU

ICE SKATING Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

X-FACTORY LASER TAG

HI-TECH USA

LASER TAG 77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com

DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261

PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL & DENTAL POTS ‘N PANS

SWIMMING POOL Landmark 72 Tower, Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com

128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732

FRENCH HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983 011081

VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

EAT ASAHI SUSHI

ELECTRONICS

LA VERTICALE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

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hanoi han noi

MEDICAL BUFF STAYING HEALTHY IN THE SUMMER HEAT

W

ith the thermometer at a Hanoi high, and humidity rising, we all need to remind ourselves how to stay healthy in the summer heat. The danger for some is heat exhaustion, which is a condition whose symptoms may include weakness, headache, dizziness, muscle cramps, nausea or vomiting and rapid heart beat. All of this as a result of your body overheating.

Causes of heat exhaustion include exposure to high temperatures, high humidity and strenuous physical activity (even golfing!). Without prompt treatment it may become a life-threatening condition.

In hot weather, your body cools itself mainly by sweating. Evaporation of sweat lowers body temperature. However, when you exercise strenuously especially in hot, humid weather, your body is less able to cool itself efficiently. If you suspect a heatrelated illness, stop exercising and get out of the heat.

Treatment In most cases, you can treat heat exhaustion

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BY DR BRIAN MCNAULL

pressfoto.com

yourself by doing the following: Rest in a cool place. Get to an airconditioned building or at least, find a shady spot. Rest on your back with your legs elevated higher than your heart level.

Drink cool fluids. Stick to water or sports drinks (Gatorade). These drinks can replace the sodium, chloride and potassium you lose through sweating. Don’t drink any beverages that have alcohol or caffeine — these can promote fluid loss. Your body’s ability to sweat and cool down depends on adequate rehydration. Drink plenty of water while you’re working out, even if you don’t feel thirsty.

Apply cool water to your skin. If possible, take a cool shower, sponge down or soak in a cool bath.

Loosen clothing. Remove any tight unnecessary clothing.

Contact us at FMP if your signs or symptoms worsen, or if they don’t improve within 30 minutes.

Prevention Wear loose-fitting, lightweight, light-coloured clothing. Dark or tight clothing holds in heat

and doesn’t let your body cool properly because it inhibits sweat evaporation.

Lightweight, loose-fitting clothing promotes sweat evaporation and cooling by letting more air pass over your body.

Avoid the midday sun. Wear a lightweight, wide-brimmed hat. Use an umbrella to protect yourself from the sun. Apply sunscreen to exposed skin. Exercise in the morning or evening — when it’s likely to be cooler outdoors — rather than the middle of the day.

Drink plenty of fluids. Staying hydrated will help your body sweat and maintain a normal body temperature. Don’t wait until you feel thirsty.

Slow and easy. If you’re used to exercising indoors or in cooler weather, take it easy at first. As your body adapts to the heat, gradually increase the length and intensity of your workouts. If you have a chronic medical condition or take medication, ask your doctor if you need to take additional precautions.

Dr WB McNaull is the medical director at Family Medical Practice 298I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3843 0748

hanoi

business

BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS BUSINESS GROUPS

CORPORATE SERVICES

ICHAM

ENDO

Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 4772 0833 sbav-hanoi.org

INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS) H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435 bvisvietnam.com

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system.

All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri New Urban, Tu Liem District, Tel: +84 4 3794 0209 kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS) 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international

education for students from Primary up to University Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers.

Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC

rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)

CIMIGO

Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi.org

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and costeffective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING

MARKET RESEARCH 142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO Inland Customs Deport Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882 asiantigergroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption ti family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3762 3805 ghmsglobal.com

RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 1460

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in

the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. For more information email info@santaferelo. com.vn.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085 atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

FRASER SUITES HANOI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 8877 Located in the West Lake area, Fraser Suites Hanoi consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four bedrooms, which meet any lifestyle. With a calming and warm interior feel, each apartment features all the latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides peace of mind.

SEDONA SUITES No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 0888 sedonahotels.com.sg

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central location.

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 153

BOOK BUFF NOVELS FOR KIDS

This month Bookworm’s Truong takes a look at some of the best children’s novels around

A

t Bookworm we often get asked about the best fiction books to buy children and young adults, so we decided to look around the web and find a site that gave a compilation that was unbiased as to country of origin.

The best of the best is The Ultimate List (booktrust.org/news-and-blogs/news/222). To make it easy the books are listed in age groups: 2 to 5; 6 to 8; 9 to 11; and 12 to 14 and beyond. Better still, instead of being a dry old list, the books are displayed with recent covers to make searching in kids’ bookshops somewhat easier.

Another request we get is from customers who want to get a home library up and running. In this digital age where a large proportion of readers download books onto kindles, actual book home libraries are becoming a thing of the past and bookshelves a non-event in many houses.

We asked some regular customers, readers of quality fiction, about their experiences with home libraries, and a lot came to a consensus that the books on their parent’s shelves had often influenced their adolescent reading choices particularly on days when rain, illness, or boredom set in, and they had taken refuge in the stories they found there.

So we looked around for compilations of the 100 best books of all time to assist these library builders and decided that the list put out by the Guardian in 2003 (theguardian.com/books/2003/oct/12/features. fiction) was about the best around, mainly

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because a proportion of the books are novels that every intelligent adolescent and young adult should be exposed to in print form — print as opposed to movie interpretation.

The Top 100 For the curious here’s a list of these and their placement on the top 100 list.

Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe and his adventures on his castaway island including the famous meeting with Man Friday comes in at number three, with Gulliver’s Travels by Jonathan Swift at number four. The part about Gulliver being tormented by the Lilliputians is my favourite section of the book, although I used to get a bit bewildered in Brobdingnag.

In the teens, number 14, is Alexander Dumas’ account of the escape of The Count of Monte Christo from the dungeons of Chateau D’if, an island near Marseille.

Dickens’ David Copperfield is at 16 and has some of the best named characters in literature with a happy ending to boot.

The twenties has Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland by Lewis Carroll at 24 and Louisa May Alcott’s moving Little Women is at 25. Although not on the list I’d be tempted to add Geraldine Brook’s 2006 Pulitzer Prize retelling of Alcott’s novel to the library. Told from the father’s viewpoint, March is a moving American Civil War, anti-slavery read.

Mark Twain’s Huckleberry Finn and his Mississippi adventures with the

un-runaway slave, Jim, comes in at 31 and Jack London’s famous Arctic dog book, Call of the Wild, is at 38. At 40 are the adventures of the toffee-nosed Toad of Toad Hall and his animal minders and their Edwardian countryside ramble through The Wind in the Willows by Kenneth Graham. The World War One thriller that once kept young male readers up at nights in a vice-like grip, The Thirty-Nine Steps by John Buchan, gets a nod at 44.

Seven more novels round off the list.

Salinger’s adolescent Holden Caulfield who was riddled with angst and was the protagonist of Catcher in the Rye stars at 61. E B White’s Charlotte's Web featuring a pig and a spider spin into 63. Roald Dahl’s illustrated book about Sophie and her giant kidnapper, the BFG, is 88th.

Just scraping in at 98 is Phillip Pullman’s Northern Lights, which was named the Carnegie of Carnegies in 2007, thus, according to Americans, the best English language kids’ book ever.

By the time they turn 18 I think that most young people should also be acquainted with Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings (64), Golding’s Lord of the Flies (66) and Harper Lee’s To Kill a Mockingbird (73).

For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original store on Chau Long, Bookworm have a second, smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton and in the same alley as VilaTom Coffee, it can be found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

Ho Chi Minh City

BUSINESS BUFF // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // NON-FAMOUS PLACES // A WORLD OF GOOD // FOOD PROMOS // STUDENT EYE PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER

HCMC

business

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES / EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS / RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS ACCOUNTING & AUDITING COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND PHIBIOUS DESIGN

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0220 globaleye.com

PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com

ADVERTISING & MKTG BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com

DENTSU VIETNAM AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com

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7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 3377 phibious.com An independent, creative– led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Viet-

nam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID 10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 2538 riverorchid.com

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM 4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn

GRANT THORNTON

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL 38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

INSPIRED IMAGE

XAGE CONSULTANCY

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES 4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 7305 0905 prism.com.vn

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

HCMC CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon.

For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com

CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com

ENDO 406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

venues to make any kind of event a success.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

EXPAT SERVICES

Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam

CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237

HAPPY HOUSE

International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553

RESIDENT VIETNAM

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE 12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com

EVENT MANAGEMENT CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS Tel: 0906 761190 centerpiece-vn.com info@centerpiece-vn.com Centerpiece is an independent event planning company run by expatriates that can plan any event from private parties, to corporate events to weddings.

EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 evecoo.vn

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD 268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive

CREATION

JONES LANG LASALLE 26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam.

Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968 cushmanwakefield.vn

EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.

Enquiries via their website are welcome.

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider

in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE 49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661 baoviet.com.vn

IF CONSULTING IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

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HCMC

BUSINESS BUFF WORLD CUP DOLLARS

T

he World Cup is almost over and as always it has been a fascinating spectacle watching some of the highest paid athletes in the world compete for their countries’ glory.

This year’s tournament has been the most expensive in history, costing Brazil over US$16 billion (VND336 trillion), far surpassing what has spent in the preceding tournaments — the highest previous cost was US$6 billion (VND126 trillion) in Germany.

What is always interesting to me in all sporting competitions is the value of the players and how this reflects on the eventual winner. Using a valuation based on players’ market values at club level, taking in salaries, stats, age and recent performances in USD, the players have a total value of US$7.9 billion (VND166 trillion).

To put some of the values in perspective, the whole Australian team was valued at less than their group rival Spain’s top player, with Barcelona superstar Andres Iniesta valued at US$69.4 million (VND1.46 trillion) while the entire Australian squad was valued at US$56.7 millio (VND1.19 trillion). So let’s look a little further into the value placed on some of the players and teams involved in this year’s tournament and see if they have been worth the expense at the World Cup. Spain, the 2010 FIFA World Cup champion, was ranked number two for total

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market value — its squad is worth US$633.7 million (VND13.3 trillion). This is just behind host Brazil which ranked number one with a net worth of US$666 million (VND13.99 trillion).

Argentina was at number three — their squad includes the world’s most valuable player, Lionel Messi, who is valued at US$151.5 million (VND3.18 trillion).

Germany is ranked number four followed

by France and then under-performing England whose squad was valued at US$457.5 million (VND9.6 trillion).

At the other end of the spectrum, the squads with the lowest market value were the USA, Australia, Iran, giant killing Costa Rica (US48 million / VND1.01 trillion) and Honduras, whose team had a total market value of US$41.8 million (VND877.6 billion).

More than Money On top of the high cost of the players, there were also some strange demands from certain teams.

Portugal demanded a games console in every room and six security guards, two of whom were dedicated to look after Cristiano Ronaldo at all times.

France required its hotel to replace its bar soap for the liquid variety. Each room needed to contain two types of liquid soaps: one for showering and the other for washing hands. The French Football Federation also

BY SHANE DILLON

insisted that every player’s room should be identical, down to the colour of the paint.

Ecuador demanded a special room where players could unwind, and an everyday basket with different types of Ecuadorian bananas in each room.

England asked for one of three hotel restaurants to be for their exclusive use, a dedicated video games room with three TVs and the latest games, and they wanted the sole use of the gym and swimming pool for several hours every day. All their rooms contained brand new furniture, beds, wooden floors, rust-free balconies and air conditioning.

Japan requested all rooms to have a Jacuzzi.

Bosnia and Herzegovina demanded an acoustic (sound-proofed) screen. The idea was that players would dine on one side and the coaching staff on the other. This way their conversations would not be mixed However none of these demands compared with that of the German team who after not being impressed by Brazil’s existing facilities, built their own complex, named Campo Bahia. This complex, which was financed by sponsors, provided a village atmosphere that also contained 13 houses and 65 rooms.

Shane works in the insurance industry in Vietnam and studies economics. He can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

HCMC BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.

Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IGLOBALASSIST Tel: 0934 874271 Iglobalassist.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn

PRUDENTIAL 25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES VIETNAM

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP

Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le Loi, Q1 ten-pac.com An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies in Southeast Asia. A trusted partner for health, employee benefits and life insurance, the team at Tenzing has over 30 years’ experience providing insurance advice.

27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup. co.uk

INTERIOR DESIGN PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND REMODELING Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk) Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new colour in the living room?

Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market.

Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS ILA VIETNAM 146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com

1717 vietnamlaws.com

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com

INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com

MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com

MANAGEMENT TRAINING EMBERS ASIA

VUS 189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822

80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

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HCMC

BODY

AND

FEET FIRST

TEMPLE

BY PHIL KELLY

W

hen it comes to health and fitness, being able to move correctly is integral. Our bodies are designed to move freely, effectively and efficiently with all joints and muscles interrelated through the amazing Human Movement System (HMS). One of the big topics at the moment is about footwear and what is actually best for us.

The discussion is often about bigsoled supportive running shoes verses minimalist or barefoot shoes. The fact is as humans we are designed to not need to wear shoes — the skeletal and neuromuscular structure of the feet, ankle and in fact the entire body is purpose built to move. However, our feet have always needed protection from sharp and even blunt objects to prevent injury.

The first modern day shoe was manufactured about 250 years ago with the first structurally supportive shoe only arriving in the 1980s. What did we ever do before this? The development of big-soled supportive shoes is an interesting one, but there are more pressing issues when it comes to footwear.

Anyone who constantly wears footwear that does not allow their feet to function properly or creates weakness of the musculature of the feet is putting the rest of their body at risk of injury. The human movement system functions in an interdependent and interrelated structure. If one part of the system is out of alignment it will cause other parts of the system or structure to compensate and alter their alignment to rebalance the overall movement system. For example, if the muscles of the foot are weak, the foot will generally pronate, resulting in the ankle being forced into internal rotation.

The knee will then internally rotate causing the thigh to do the same. As the thigh internally rotates, the pelvis or hip with drop and consequentially the lower spine will then lapse to that side. The upper spine therefore has to compensate and curve to the opposite side elevating the shoulder. As you can see from the diagram, a malfunction of the foot can lead to compensation elsewhere — back pain can often be the result of poor foot function.

The Trouble with Shoes There are two types of shoes that cause major problems with people’s posture and movement capabilities. The first is Asia’s favourite — the flip-flop or thong. The second is a woman’s best friend — the high heel.

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When most people wear flip-flops they change the way they move and how the foot strikes the ground when walking. These changes in foot placement effects the way you walk and hold yourself — it changes your entire posture and movement system.

A recent study found that people wearing flip-flops take shorter steps and shuffle their feet. These simple and minor changes to the HMS completely changes the natural gait and can trigger problems and pain throughout the body, as it causes joints to misalign.

Minor changes to foot placement and function are amplified and lead to greater malalignment in joints further up the body at the knees, hips, spine and shoulders.

Flip-flops commonly cause the wearers to develop a swayback posture, where the hips protrude forward in front of the midline of the body. This posture can cause problems or pain within the hips and lower and upper spine, not to mention that it looks unattractive.

Well-Heeled?

The high heel is a fashion icon and they do make women’s legs look good. However, from a functional and postural point of view there is nothing worse.

If you have to wear high heels, wear them for the shortest time possible and take them off when sitting. Heels cause an array of feet, ankle, pelvic and spinal complications, and they actually deform the feet.

The big toe is pushed inwards into the other toes creating a bunion or boney growth at the joint of the big toe. The combination of the narrow toebox and the elevated heel can lead to numbness and pain of the toes. Another study found that pressure on the knee joint increased by 26 percent, which will cause the wearer to develop quadriceps dominance and weaken the glutes… not great if you want a bum like J-Lo. High heels push the centre of mass forward meaning the lower back has to arch (lumbar lordosis), which can cause tightness, stiffness and pain in the lower back. At only three inches, heels will increase the pressure on the balls of the feet by 76 percent, causing all sorts of additional foot and back problems.

High heels and Asia’s favourite footwear, flip-flops, cause a lot of problems that people are just not aware of. Try to walk barefoot as much as possible, so that the muscles of the feet can strengthen, rebalance and you can feel where you need to correct your posture.

Treat yourself to foot massages and be conscious of how you stand. Your feet can be the key to good posture and movement — don’t abuse them by wearing bad footwear.

Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com

TNS VIETNAM 58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES DRAGON IMAGES Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production

studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective public relations campaigns.

Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions.

Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and

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HCMC KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS

Japanese candidates with experience studying abroad or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for many types of business.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com

RELOCATION AGENTS

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: 0908 460267 kidsclubsaigon.com

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY

38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com

Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 www.asiantigers-mobility. com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

CROWN RELOCATIONS

Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com

SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

SAIGON PONY CLUB

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults.

Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com

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2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850 seal.com.vn

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email info@ santaferelo.com.vn for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08) 3742 5678 enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres

Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

CHEZ GUIDO Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

EL GATO NEGRO Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

LOTTERIA Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

WILLY WOO’S Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon.com US-style chicken and waffles

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

downtown

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

Binh Thanh

D

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

in h

APOCALYPSE NOW

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com

BEER REPUBLIC

MODERN BEER HALL 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 0945 858034 facebook.com/BeerRepublic

BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202. bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

CARMEN

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 0908 033982

DRUNKEN DUCK

EXPAT / SPORTS BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2853 Subtle lighting, a pleasant ambience, a pool table and darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel of a drinking man's pub. A place to have fun, drink beer or spirits and get in with the party mood. Known for its 15 shooter challenge.

FUSE

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.vn

GAME ON

SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com

Ma

Ng uy en

Kh ai

M

Th i

Le

ng

Ng .H ue

Le Lo i

District 10

g

ng

Ng uy en

Ca ch

Du

cT ha n

an

Bi en

D

Tr u

h an

Th an g8

Ham Nghi

District 2

Da o

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

District 3

To n

Ba

Hu ng

ICE BLUE

Ha i

ie n

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn

Du

HARD ROCK CAFE

Tr an

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments.

A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town.

Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.

in h

Ph

u

Ho

2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)

BROMA

Huu C

en Ti

BARS & CLUBS

an g

t Kie n Va

District 4

Vo

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined.

Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

LAST CALL

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon.com

LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON

FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR 9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0396 lerendezvousdesaigon.com With such a meaningful name - the meeting point - this wine bistro boasts a relaxed, friendly ambience, perfect for unwinding with an after work drink or to enjoy time with friends.

Reasonably priced, has a sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive old and new world wine list.

LEVEL 23 WINE BAR

large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

PACHARAN

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LUSH

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2496 lush.vn

O’BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare,

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6024 pacharansaigon.com Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PHATTY’S

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed

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HCMC

COFFEE CUP TEGU CAFÉ

I

t’s late Thursday afternoon, and in the middle of a typical Saigon downpour a reporter pulls into an alley in front of a small café, praying for shelter.

Dress now dripping wet, she takes off her shoes and glances inside. It doesn’t take long to get a good look at the place. Thin and narrow, the whole café is probably the size of an apartment kitchen. Plastic linoleum squares cover the floor; long wooden tables and benches provide the furnishings and vine-covered wallpaper cover the walls. Overall it’s pretty basic.

Oh yeah, and then there are the animal cages.

Welcome to Tegu Café and Pet Club.

Lounging with Lizards Located on Duong D1 in Binh Thanh, newly-opened Tegu joins the rank of pet cafés that are making their way around Ho Chi Minh City. Instead of your typical dog or cat joint — see Ailucat Café,

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Photos by Francis Xavier

284C Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Phu Nhuan — Tegu is staking its claim to the hot non-household territory that Babo Café (9 Chung Cu A3, Duong Hoa Phuong, Phu Nhuan) simultaneously colonised: reptiles. Tegu’s animal den features both snakes and lizards, which can hang out with customers while they sit back and enjoy their coffee.

Compared to the other animal-centred coffee hubs in Ho Chi Minh City, Tegu is a bit basic. The extent of their kitchen equipment seems to be a blender, a kettle, a dishwashing rack and a sink, with one flat screen TV adorning the wall. Yet despite its simplicity, there’s something homey about the place. Between the café’s keyboard and guitar there’s always someone playing live music, and the bright lights from the reptile cages are comforting.

Or maybe it’s just the chilled back vibe emanating from the animals. A little over

10 reptiles are spread out over four cages, and customers are welcome to interact with them. The snakes and lizards can be taken out of their cages for cuddles, hugs and of course photo ops, and they aren’t the only animals in house. Make sure to spend some time with Tegu’s adorable little pug puppy, who runs around constantly between tables and chairs. Be warned: he likes to nibble.

And then there’s the coffee. Regular black Vietnamese coffee costs only VND14,000 (VND16,000 with condensed milk) while other drinks like sodas, teas and smoothies range from VND14,000 to VND24,000.

Is this a place to get your regular daily fix? Definitely not. But if you’re looking to take a break from your daily routine, head over to Tegu and lay back with the lizards. — Margaret Smith Tegu Café is at 125 Duong D1, Binh Thanh, and on facebook.com/tegu.coffee

HCMC Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

SAIGON SAIGON

XU

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior.

Regular DJ nights.

DANCE/HIP HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

VINYL BAR

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes.

Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827

FANNY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704 saigongivral.com

GOODY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339

HÄAGEN-DAZS

ZANZBAR

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375 Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting, international tapas and a laidback, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river end of Dong Khoi. Popular with a businessy, international crowd.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM

VELVET

with its location as much as its food.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BACH DANG

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back.

Second location on Le Loi.

MAGONN THE CAFE 109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9672 magonn.vn Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything from drinks to bites. Coming with a crowd? The attic is a quaint little spot to fit a cozy gathering.

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707

BASKIN ROBBINS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn

CASBAH

MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7285 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you

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HCMC M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe.com.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection.

Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows.

The mid-range menu offers

over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

DEBENHAMS

ADULT & CHILDREN’S WEAR Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7592

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

CASUAL & EVENING WEAR 85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004 Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs.

The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags.

Enjoy a cup of coffee at their

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café after.

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA

BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm

L’USINE

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

MR & MRS SMITH

FACTORY OUTLET 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet sells a variety of clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam.

All designs are brand new, delivered from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices.

SONG

ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com

T&V TAILOR

TAILORS 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com

VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com

BOCONCEPT

DANISH FURNITURE 68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn

DIABOLO

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm

EM EM

SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org

NGUYEN FRERES

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.

(08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 69 Dong Khoi, Q1

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 www.nhaxinh.com

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631

AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.

Excellent delivery service.

ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant. com Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

HCMC CENTRAL PARC BANH MI

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 barbecuegarden.com

BASILICO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon

BEIRUT

LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2188

BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

BLACK CAT

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.

BLANCHY STREET

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink

BUN CHA HA NOI

BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New York-themed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels.

Excellent delivery service.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn

GRILLBAR

AIRCON STREETFOOD 122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901 facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes, typical of the barbecue fare you’d find on the street, and then add in three types of rice and a range of organic products. Close to Ben Thanh Market, this is com binh dan

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico.

Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu.

Check out their pepper steaks.

KABIN

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3691 A contemporary trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a beautifully designed space with high ceilings. The menu features both traditional antipasti and substantial main courses.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LE BANH MI 12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

MAY RESTAURANT 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com 7am to late Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 167

HCMC

TOP EATS KAY VEGAN BISTRO

I

’ve been trying to fix my life. Wake up at a regular time and exercise. Cut out the bad stuff. Eat better.

In the course of this juvenation — there’s no ‘re’ in there, my bad habits extend to well before my metabolism slowed — I’ve started to go to Kim’s more often. Just down the block from my house, my roommates and I have always known Kay Vegan Bistro as ‘Kim’s’ because of co-owner and matriarch Nguyen Kim Chi’s pervasive presence. Judging from the “hellos” and “how are yous” Kim showers on her peak lunchtime diners, we can’t be the only ones with this strong association.

“It’s not the things you give,” Kim says.

“You’re also giving the meaning of it. It’s not about a single dish, it’s about the result, and how much love I put in it.”

Not About a Single Dish...

On the day I go down in my official capacity, it’s definitely about the food, all 15 courses of it. I’d given Kim the heads up about this review, and asked if she could prepare a few dishes to be photographed.

Perhaps I should have been more specific.

Before photographer Francis and I knew to pace ourselves, we’d already eaten a

168 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Francis Xavier

plate of lightly fried spring rolls, picked all the ricotta and olives from the Kay Caprese salad and devoured Kay’s self-styled tapas offerings — plates of jerky-like dehydrated mushrooms and seaweed. When the tangy som tam papaya salad and sweet, richlyflavoured pad Thai arrived — dishes I regularly eat at Kay à la carte — we knew we were wading into deep waters.

The tom yum soup acted as a sort of interlude between the first half of our meal and the next. Fresher and cleaner than Thai style tom yum, with less coconut as befits Vietnamese tastes, it acted as a semi-spicy palate cleanser. The green curry was awesome as always — it’s one of their specialities.

By the time we got to the minced soft tofu sauced holy basil — which the chef incorrectly remembered as my favourite; it comes a distant second to my everyday jam, the pomelo salad — we’d gathered enough steam to put an exclamation mark on our meal, in the form of an empty plate.

Then came one dessert. Then came another.

If you’ve noticed a Thai emphasis in the dishes mentioned, it’s because Thai dishes are the most widely covered by their international vegetarian menu. Shipments

of herbs and spices come in weekly from Thailand, and Kim’s Mercure Koh Changawarded Certificate of Culinary Achievement in Thai Cooking hangs in front.

Sticking it through, I finished a tremendously satisfying scoop of vanilla ice cream. Vegan? you might be thinking — Really? Kay is ‘vegan’ more in the Vietnamese sense of the word — a restaurant dedicated to an anti-cruelty, pro-health vegetarian ethos, with the occasional dairy product thrown in.

This is hardly an impartial review, but judge it on the basis of my long-standing patronage. Kay and nearby Lau Nam Chay An Nhien (94 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1) are my two favourite Vietnamese vegetarian restaurants — my favourite cuisine in Saigon (shout-outs also go to Japanese veggie oasis Ploughman’s Garden [58 So 1, Tran Nao, Q2] and the Cao Daiadministered Dinh Y [171B Cong Quynh, Q1]).

Kay will continue to receive my business and my affection, even after my health kick tapers off. With Kim’s, it’s never about a single dish. — Ed Weinberg Kay Vegan Bistro is at 84A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, in the alley Hem Cay Diep

NHA HANG NGON

VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

OMG!

QUAN BUI 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.

REFINERY

FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

OSAKA RAMEN

REFLECTIONS

OPERA

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PASHA

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677 pasha.com.vn Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

PROPAGANDA

CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300.

Good for events.

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

TANDOOR

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com

TEMPLE CLUB

SAIGON CAFÉ

PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

SEOUL HOUSE

THE BURGER CORNER

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297

INTERNATIONAL 43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094

HCMC

NON-FAMOUS PLACES 237 NO TRANG LONG — FAIRY TALE CASTLE

In an ongoing series originally published on the blog From Saigon, Non-Famous Places seeks to take readers to Ho Chi Minh City landmarks left off most maps, whose stories make up the very fabric of the city itself

8

3-year-old Le Thanh Cong just doesn’t care. Why do we want to see his house? Oh, people always come to see the house, he doesn’t mind. Can we take some pictures? Sure we can take some pictures.

But when we ask details, his willingness hits a roadblock. Why was the house built out here? He doesn’t know. How old is it? He can’t say. He’s just an old man who will die soon, living here.

Until a few years ago his mother also lived in the house, along with the seven members of younger generations currently residing there. Her room is still unoccupied. Faded letters reading “Mung le thuong tho ba Nguyen Thi Quy 100 tuoi” — “Happy birthday and long live 100-yearold grandmother Nguyen Thi Quy” — stay glued to the wall. A 100-year-old cabinet made of the rare wood his family trafficked in, sits in the front room between alabasterwhite pillars.

170 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Illustration by Lys Bui

Through the Generations Cong’s grandfather, Le Minh Tri, built the house before Cong was born. Owing to a recent stroke and the vagaries of old age, he hardly remembers anything about his elder, besides for his Annamite origins — Tri came from modern-day Central Vietnam.

But Cong does remember one thing about the baroque structure his grandfather built, whose pointed roof breaks the fence-line separating it from Binh Thanh’s busy No Trang Long Street. No concrete was used in its building — the uneven hues of its surface, cracked but remarkably well preserved, are a product of a simple lime-and-sugar mixture.

The pointed roof itself is the rarest feature of the house. The Notre Dame Cathedral is the only other building in Saigon with that type of hinged, pitched-tile roof, curlicue embellishments occurring rhythmically down its stone ridges.

Cong’s father, Le Thanh Tri, harvested wood from forests to the north — Trang Bom

and Dinh Quan forests in Dong Nai Province, and Dong Xoai forest in Binh Phuoc Province, site of the Battle of Dong Xoai in 1965.

Although Cong managed a lumber business, he didn’t have to “go to the forest”. And soon, the wilderness around 237 No Trang Long began to change. From a “haunted area” — with tales of wartime bodies dumped into the nearby Saigon River — post-1975 the neighbourhood began to develop into the populous area of today.

What was once a solitary outpost among rubber plantations, the gateway between central Saigon and an unsettled world, is now only an outpost of memory between a Thegioididong electronics store and a garden café. And the world continues to progress, outside the vine-wreathed fences of 237 No Trang Long. — Ed Weinberg The From Saigon blog is at from-saigon.tumblr. com. Site selection and guidance comes from Tim Doling. To see his work on the history of Vietnam, go to historicvietnam.com

HCMC THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON 54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079 swisshousesaigon.com Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Does a great set lunch deal.

YU CHU

TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,

fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA ANUPA YOGA 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Cfyc.com.vn

NUTRIFORT

GENERAL FITNESS 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8560 nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

SHERATON FITNESS

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

THE LANDMARK CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the

last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate.

Sells prints of the originals and related products.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm.vn

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.

Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

BACCHUS CORNER

WINE SHOP 158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3306 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

WINE SHOP 74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4376 kimhai.vn

PHUONG HA

GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318

RED APRON

WINE SHOP 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0021

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HCMC HC CMC

A WORLD

OF

THE SKY IS NOT FALLING

I

t’s no secret I love a good international day, especially the lesser known ones that don’t come with their own celebrity endorsement (ack!). This month will see the celebration of World Population Day and that’s got me thinking about a few things.

When the earth’s population hit seven billion in 2011, the handwringing began. I was told gravely there were just “too many mouths to feed” and thus the planet faced imminent collapse. Or really soon, anyway.

Like in 50 years. Talk continues to centre on “food scarcity”, “resource wars” and “ecological collapse”.

I still meet folks from the UK (population 63 million) or the US (319 million), who are staggered at Vietnam’s temerity in creating a population of 90 million, ignoring the fact its land mass is 22 percent larger than the UK’s and has far more land under irrigation. Yes, thinking about population also means thinking about countries that have skewed sex ratios at birth. (Vietnam’s is around 111 boys to 100 girls.) There remain strong cultural preferences for boys

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here and as such, although sex-selection abortion is ostensibly illegal, ultrasound is not. Within the next few decades a number of countries around the world will face a disturbing lack of brides for millions of men. That will certainly affect populations.

Peaks and Troughs But the biggest reason I’m thinking about this international day is because frankly this many people on the planet is an achievement. We’re healthier and we live longer. And even better, the UN says by about 2050, the world’s population growth will likely peak at around 10 billion and start declining. Why? Because it already has in many parts of the world. In other words, getting old is what we’re doing, not making babies (sure some are, but not all of us). That all has to do with fertility and replacement rates. Countries like Tunisia, Brazil and Thailand have fertility rates below their population replacement rates — and then there are countries like Japan, Germany or Ukraine.

How did this happen? Population issues are poverty issues. When we

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

focus attention and resources on the education, health and reproductive rights of adolescent girls and women (and boys and men), they are better able to make informed choices that can and do transform their communities. This means things like jobs, media literacy and reduced infant mortality. Population is important, but where we’re at is not a call to panic. Sure it’s easier to feed a billion less people than a billion more, but we are not seven billion hunter-gatherers either. Scarcity and famine are acts of political will. Humanity has consistently adapted to and thrived in its environment, making better use of agricultural outputs. More education means people make better choices about their food supply chains, their environment and their use (or not) of resources.

All those doomsday prophets who predict a pending world collapse will continue to wait for the apocalypse. Only, they’ll be waiting a long time.

Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth. She can be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au

HCMC THE WAREHOUSE

WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

VEGGY’S

GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526

VINIFERA

WINE SHOP 7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0860 viniferavn.com

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.

Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

HAIRDRESSERS VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298

MEDICAL & DENTAL ACCADENT

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

SALONS & SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 aquadayspasaigon.com

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies.

Customers are pampered

by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

MEKONG BLISS SPA 112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 0563 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm)

Q SPA & SALON 31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage.

Also offers hair styling and facials.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0885

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn

THE SPA Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com

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HCMC

FOOD PROMOS Peking Duck @ Shang Palace shangpalace.com.vn This month Shang Palace’s Hong Kongtrained chefs have a chance to show off their speciality Peking Duck, with a 30 percent discount offer — VND560,000++ per duck. With a history of more than 600 years under its belt, isn’t it time you gave the world’s most famous duck a try?

May Days facebook.com/may.restaurant.bar May Restaurant and Bar is stirring the Dong Khoi pot with some superb specials, like a VND199,000 set lunch, available weekdays and featuring an appetiser, main, dessert and your choice of tea or coffee. And while you’re there, you might as well stay through their 3pm to 7pm happy hour, featuring buyone-get-one cocktails from their menu of 70-plus, and buy-two-get-one winesby-the-glass from a selection of 20-plus vintages.

The Early Bird Gets the Worm, and Huevos Rancheros @ Snap Café facebook.com/thesnapcafe Snap Café has come up with a wild offer that might even motivate some early visits from summer breakers — free breakfast with any Italian coffee purchase. These breakfasts aren’t just any slapdash dishes, but actual real breakfasts you’d pay for, like an ovenbaked Cajun clay pot fry-up and those aforementioned huevos rancheros. After a successful run in June, they’re bringing the offer back in July, but only between the weekday hours of 7.30am to 9.30am, and only one per person, greedy.

Go Pandas! foodpanda.vn Foodpanda.com is your best friend while watching the footie as we enter the single-elimination rounds of the World Cup. Stock up on some treats for those late-night marathons with discounts up to 50 percent and chances to win an Apple iPad Mini, to pass those footballless daytime hours. Through Jul. 10, post the hashtag #foodball2014 on Facebook or Twitter via foodball.foodpanda.com to reap your rewards, and make some silly puns while you’re at it.

The Art of Artichokes @ Reflections, Caravelle Hotel

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The Peking Duck at Shang Palace

caravellehotel.com Reflections is drawing inspiration from the gourmet gardens of Dalat this summer, with Chef Darren Watson and his team showcasing the subtle flavours of the artichoke. From Jul. 12 to Jul. 18, Reflections will stuff artichokes into appetisers such as stuffed artichoke

hearts and artichoke carpaccio, and mains such as sous vide duck breast with artichoke gratin and Cajun marinated salmon fillet with artichoke blinis.

Artichoke enthusiasts can also order any three courses from the a la carte menu for VND810,000, or any four courses for VND938,000.

HCMC GINKGO

pham ngu lao

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / GALLERIES BAKERIES CRUMBS

BAKERY 117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

TOUS LES JOURS

KOREAN BAKERY 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350

BARS & CLUBS BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1

BREAD & BUTTER

ternational and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the name of that most special of sounds — the one from Jamaica.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

GO2

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575

GODMOTHER BAR

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty in-

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

THE OBSERVATORY

BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440 theobservatory-hcmc.com The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao. With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines café culture, cocktails, art, DJ nights — now the home base for the Optimist Club — live music and various "hap-

penings", sprinkling them throughout its cozy corners.

THI CAFÉ

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929

T&R TAVERN

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839

UNIVERSAL BAR

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com

CAFES BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fast-food style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge.

Check website for movie locations and schedule.

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

MARATHON

BUDGET CLOTHING 147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019

PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com

ORANGE

BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm

U.BEST HOUSE

TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9780

EAT

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE 213 Bui Vien, Q1 facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP

SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BLUE DRAGON

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm

BABA’S KITCHEN

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BURRITO REVOLUTION

TEX-MEX / STREET STALL 124 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 714882

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311

JJ’S FISH ‘N CHIPS

FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De Tham, Q1

LA CANTINA

TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE 175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

MARGHERITA

ITALIAN / TEX-MEX 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

SISTERS CAFE

VIETNAMESE/WESTERN 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 Light wood paneling, beige walls and locally themed artwork help to create a fresh and airy ambience in this café-cum-restaurant that is owned by the woman behind Chi’s Café. Also does visa extensions and motorbike rental.

THE HUNGRY PIG

BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar.

A popular hangout.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

WRAP & ROLL 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check out the second floor, junglein-the-wall décor at this particular branch. Unique and refreshing.

infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

GALLERIES GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city.

Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.

Pricing depends on size and style.

LAC VIET TATTOO 608

Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com

SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com

SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO

31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO GROUP 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn

TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI

209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com

ZEUS

GREEK / KEBAB 164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespa-

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

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district 1

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

Binh Thanh

D

BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

in h

BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 0906 780081

CHILL SKYBAR

TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

HOA VIEN

CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com

SHOOTERS BEER HOUSE

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 31 Le Quy Don, Q1

THE ORIENT

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

VUVUZELA

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2281

BOOKS LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.

Only books written in French

BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003 sam.nguyen197@gmail.com A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

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I.D. CAFÉ

District 10

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

LE PETIT CAFÉ

FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2067

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and

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ICE CREAM PARLOUR 4 Truong Han Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 6763

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District 2

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15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

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QUAN NHAU 18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1

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District 3

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CAFES

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3844 3295 saigongivral.com

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CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel: 0919 584884 info@ahoybeerclub.vn

GIVRAL CAFÉ

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AHOY BEER CLUB

are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com

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relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOSSINI

UNISEX CASUAL WEAR 22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 2292 Bossini.com

GAYA CLOTHING

HAND-MADE / DESIGNER Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 Gayavietnam.com Clothing is designed and tailor-made by renowned designer Romyda Keth, and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. Gaya sells colourful, sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops.

THUY NGA DESIGN

BUSINESSWEAR / CASUAL 19-21 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 3574 thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE GAYA

CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 gayavietnam.com Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

EAT 27 GRILL

GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grill-style fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

CAFÉ IF

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noo-

dle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

COBALT

ROOFTOP RESTOBAR Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullman-saigon-centre.com A tapas-style contemporary international menu in an equally modern chic space, Cobalt also has panoramic views over the city thanks to its 30th-floor location. Has a focus on wine matching and tasting. A hotel restaurant with a difference.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU

COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0935 comtamthuankieu.com.vn

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish

HCMC head curry.

MAY RESTAURANT

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1277 May-cloud.com Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

MONSOON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

QUAN UT UT

AMERICAN VIETNAMESE GRILL 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 quanutut.com On-site American grilltype fare in a Vietnamese, wooden table setting. Think ribs, burgers and all things hearty at this immensely popular eatery.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA STAR FITNESS GYM

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & POOL Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9009 saigonriverclub.com

GALLERIES

vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

SAN ART

WE LINK

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

SALONS & SPAS

CITYSMART Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3526 8833 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn re.com MEDICAL

COUNSELLING 64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

& DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848

CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.

SPA TROPIC

79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

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HCMC

district 2

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DISTRICT 2 i

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Thao Dien

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Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

Ng uy ễn

Vă n

Xa

Binh Thanh

Ngu o

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Đi

ền Nộ

ủy Xuân Th

y Xuân Thủ

Hữu Cảnh

BAKERIES BAKEUP ATELIER

BAKERY 244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8392 The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien, Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries such as croissants, pain au chocolat, pain raisins, pizza dough, pates feuillete and much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Ho Chi Minh City.

LOAVES & FISHES

BAKERY / CAFE 5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4118 harvestbaking.net

PAT A CHOU

FRENCH BAKERY 25 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3743 2445

VOELKER

BAKERY 39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

BARS & CLUBS BAAN THAI

g n Hoàn

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SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE

Lộ

DISTRICT 2

í Thọ

Hà

Lộ

Nội ành Song H

Nguyễ

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Xa

Xa

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Binh Thanh

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Th ả

CHI LAI

HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

FEELING TROPIC 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports.

The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL 38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel: 01299 839314 facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill With its seven TVs, full-size mezzanine area, pool table and aircon lounge space, BMV is the perfect place in District 2 to relax and watch the sports. Has live music on Thursday and Friday nights, and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in Thao Dien.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of

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surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

SAIGON OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

THE FAN CLUB

SPORTS BAR Ground Floor, The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, Q2 dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub 12 quality screens and eight draught beers, music spun

by DJs, excellent burgers, quiz nights and barbecues.

All in an attractive, contemporary environment.

CAFES AGNES CAFE

COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offers a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with

a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Now open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed and intimate.

CAFÉ EVITA

LAID-BACK CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 230A Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 3888

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES LITTLE ANH-EM

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE AUSTIN HOME

REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors.com

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above.

Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks.

Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

EAT AGNES CAFÉ

CAFÉ FARE / TEX-MEX 11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable café offering up a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Open until 10pm.

BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA 126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX Trading Centre 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

HCMC SPORTS

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

LA CLOSERIE D’ELISA

CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL

AND

RUGBY

024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com

SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON gauloisdesaigon.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com

Contact Fred on 0919 709

FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT 52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 A tropical garden ambience that is at once French yet contemporary Indochinese is the home of this table d’hote style restaurant and bar. Classic French cuisine at reasonable prices in the heart of Thao Dien.

LA PLANCHA 25 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8521

LU BU

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.

Has petanque on the terrace.

Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE LOOP

HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS 49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA AQUAFIT

AQUABIKING 65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 008985 aquafit.vn

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 540030

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and

personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril Terrones, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril’s clients love. Includes Zumba, salsa, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10. Also has kids classes. Boxing on Tuesday and Saturday at 4pm and circuit training on Thursday at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE 100%

MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES 26B Thao Dien, Q2 100percentvn.com

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.

PAPAGAYO

FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q3, Tel: (08) 6252 1333 facebook.com/papagayosaigon

TAMAGO

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms.

They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on

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HCMC Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines with a portfolio spanning old and new world as well as everything in between.

The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new tipple.

HAIRDRESSERS ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon. com.vn

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc.com The only fully authorized IB World School in Ho Chi Minh City, ISHCMC has been awarding graduates with an IB Diploma and sending them off to high-profile overseas universities since 1999.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.

Tel: (08) 7300 7257 info@eishcmc.com www.eishcmc.com Located in the heart of Thao Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum.

EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

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SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 theamericanschool.edu.vn

KIDS FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM www.firstBIKE.com.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

GREGORY BEALE

THERAPY 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 01268 654 202 gregbealetherapyfitness. com

SALONS & SPAS AUTHENTIC SPA Thao Dien Village, Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222

AVEDA HERBAL SPA

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

district 3

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS BARS & CLUBS ACOUSTIC

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars.

Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951

CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS

LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE 224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948 031323

WOODSTOCK BAR

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.

Tel: (08) 39304075 metallicbar.com Showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music starts at 8.30pm.

PLAN B

CONTEMPORARY BAR 147 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 0987 684761

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BOO STREETWEAR 187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 boo.vn CRAFTS

Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 3398

BUD’S

ICE-CREAM PARLOUR

relaxation after a long day at work.

REMIX DECO

HIDEAWAY

& FURNITURE

ONTOP BAR

ROCK BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08) 6290 7489 Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn

ATC FURNITURE

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 39326455 SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 38403946 atc-craft.com Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living space of your home?

Come to ATC FURNITURE, you will find a wide range of modern-designed products (sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly materials (water hyacinth & rattan). Our outdoor (poly rattan) wicker-furniture range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A hanging (hammock) chair is irresistible for complete

INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com

EAT AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, is hand carved at your table. Can get busy.

BANH CANH HOANG TY

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

JOIE DE VIVRE

WESTERN / FRENCH 292/10, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066 facebook.com/joie.vn

PHO HOA

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

HCMC

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn

VIET CHAY

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MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY

YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 michelle@michellelloyd.com michellelloyd.com American trained and licensed massage therapist and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and massage spaces in Districts 2 and 3. Private and group yoga classes. Home visits available.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

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Tổ

BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com

YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791

programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278 vas.edu.vn

MEDICAL & DENTAL STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CITYSMART 7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational

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INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE Hư ng

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HAIRDRESSERS FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

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VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 vietchay.vn

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SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

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INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

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Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service.

Orthodontics is also available.

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DISTRICT 3

Binh Thanh

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied

with extremely reasonable prices.

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children and adult.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908 453 338 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com

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HCMC

STUDENT EYE SENIOR YEAR

T

eens love to be on top — especially being in the oldest gang, the seniors of their school. Seniors always seem somewhat different, a bit special and maybe even privileged. Well for a start, they are given the whole common room to themselves, a lounge where they can study, eat and hang out with their friends. And there seem to be many other perks, starting from some of the most trivial things like getting to sit in the front row during school assemblies, or having their tests graded before the other classes. And for juniors, the idea of finally taking over the spots of the seniors seems very exciting.

But a couple of weeks into senior year, this glamorous image that the juniors used to dream of has faded a little. Turns out seniority isn’t as fun as it once seemed.

Top of the Food Chain First of all, the ex-juniors have now

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become the people that they once looked up to. This may sound like a great accomplishment, but this also means there isn’t anyone they can look up to, who they can follow. For younger students, the near future is much more comprehensible — they can just look at what the upper grade levels are like. But when they become seniors and reach the top of the pyramid, their future seems much more obscure. And not knowing what could happen next is often quite frightening for teens, as well as the fact that they are subject to the eyes of the whole school community.

But senior year is also frightening for other reasons. Teens usually imagine this time to be the time when life finally makes sense, when they finally ‘find themselves’ — or at least that’s what it’s supposed to be. But really, many of these young teens, who are only 17 or 18, have

no idea what they want to study, which university they want to go to, or what they want to become in the future. Like the assignments they once faced, the deadlines of all of these nerve-wracking life decisions seem to have suddenly taken a huge step closer.

After 12 years of elementary school, middle school and high school, you would expect teens to be extzremely thrilled to graduate. This part is true, but these feelings may be mixed with other not-so-exciting elements.

They’ll refuse to admit it, but in the corner of their hearts, they will hesitate to leave school, wishing to stay back a little longer and delay the huge wave of ‘life’.

Now they’re only a step away from reality and all the intimidating responsibilities that will be thrown at them as soon as they step out of the stronghold of senior year. — Tae Jun Park

HCMC complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

phu my hung

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL Đông yễn Ch

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ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS)

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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS 206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel: 01654 058401 / 01629 546534 cezsaigon@gmail.com

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DISTRICT 7 PHU MY HUNG

BAKERIES L’AMOUR

BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn

SAVOURE

BAKERY Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

SIMRANS

BAKERY SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg

BARS & CLUBS BANANA BAR

EXPAT BAR SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

PEACHES

CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more.

A popular local haunt.

RUBY SOHO

CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900

THE TAVERN

EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody.

Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7355 bellavitafurniture.com

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110; S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-creations.org

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com

EAT BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

CHAM CHARM

LUXURY INDOCHINA 2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 9999

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304

MING DYNASTY

LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 5555

NATHALIE’S

THAI / VIETNAMESE S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0822 nathaliesrestaurant.com

SALT & PEPPER

PAN-ITALIAN The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent

Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.

Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com

LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 lgkids.vn

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance.edu.vn Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,

mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

MEDICAL & DENTAL

AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn. com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience.

The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments.

Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

FV HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 183

Những bảo tàng bị quên lãng Hà Nội có nhiều bảo tàng nằm rải rác khắp nơi. Trong số đó, có những cái chúng ta chưa bao giờ nghe đến cả. Lucy Sexton đã tới thăm ba trong số những bảo tàng ít người biết đến này để nghe những câu chuyện quá khứ mà chúng khoác lên mình. Ảnh bởi Julie Vola

T

rên con phố Lý Thường Kiệt, những người đi làm mỗi buổi sáng vẫn còn đang ngái ngủ, do vậy họ dễ dàng bỏ qua địa chỉ số 67 – là một tòa nhà khoác tấm áo màu vàng đặc trưng như bao ngôi nhà ở Hà Nội. Đối với những người khách du lịch ở khu phố cổ Hàng Bạc, một hệ thống cửa gỗ tối màu cũng không tạo nên sự khác biệt trong chuỗi những ngôi nhà tưởng chừng như bất tận và có mặt tiền chẳng mấy đặc sắc. Nhưng những địa chỉ này thường ít khi khiến bạn băn khoăn hay tò mò về chúng. Thực ra, chúng là những bảo tàng khiêm tốn nằm trong những góc nhỏ rất bình thường của thành phố. Hà Nội có rải rác những bảo tàng như thế.

Có những bảo tàng nổi tiếng nhất thế giới vì một số lí do hiển nhiên: họ có những bộ sưu tập hoành tráng, những buổi triển lãm có phong cách, nội dung hấp dẫn, có những tòa nhà mang tới cảm giác bạn đang sống trong lịch sử, và họ có cách tiếp thị tốt. Thế còn những bảo tàng không ai biết tới thì sao, những nơi bị chôn vùi trong những chiếc mồ bằng đá, dây leo mọc kín và khí thải?

Chúng có đang lưu trữ những báu vật không?

Chúng có xứng đáng được lưu ý không? Tôi đi tìm lời giải cho những câu trả lời này trong suốt mấy ngày – thông qua các diễn đàn xã hội, qua lời bạn bè, và dành hàng giờ lượn quanh Hà Nội.

2 giờ chiều trong một buổi chiều thứ 6 oi bức, tôi đến số nhà 67 trông hoàn toàn vắng vẻ. Một tấm biển ghi chữ “Bảo tàng” mời gọi tôi vào. Tôi đã đến đây một vài lần rồi. Một lần là vào bữa tiệc ngày thiếu nhi. Lần khác là dịp tôi ú ớ nói chuyện với chị Giang, thư ký của thư viện để xin phép được vào

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thăm bảo tàng. Và lần thứ 3 này, tôi thực sự được chiêm ngưỡng vẻ đẹp của nó.

Bảo Tàng Công An Suy nghĩ đầu tiên của tôi về Bảo tàng Công An Hà Nội là nó sẽ thể hiện được sự tồn tại ít người biết đến của mình. Hé nhìn qua những cánh cửa kính vuông trong lần đến thăm trước, tôi thấy có hai sảnh được treo các bức tranh. Thật ngạc nhiên khi bước vào vì tôi nhận ra bảo tàng này lớn hơn tôi tưởng tượng rất nhiều. Mặc dù không thể tìm thấy một từ tiếng Anh nào, bảo tàng vẫn làm tôi hiểu được phần nào qua các bức ảnh, những bức tượng sáp nhỏ, những chiếc đèn pin, và cả những chiếc máy tạo không khí và những hình ma-nơ-canh mặc đồng phục. Những chiếc phòng này được gìn giữ cẩn thận và sắp xếp theo thứ tự thời gian theo những sự kiện lịch sử và những anh hùng dân tộc, với một vài nữ anh hùng tiêu biểu trong các sự kiện đó.

Có một bức tường được dành toàn bộ để nói về cô Nguyễn Thị Lợi, một trong số nữ trinh sát hiếm hoi và đã hy sinh năm 1950 khi cô cho làm nổ tung chiếc tàu chiến của Pháp D’Inville nhờ chất nổ cải trang là thuốc phiện chứa trong một va li buôn lậu.

Khó có thể nói cái nào ấn tượng hơn giữa sự kiện hy sinh đó hay thực tế về hoạt động buôn bán thuốc phiện tự do này của Pháp. Được xây dựng vào năm 2008, Bảo Tàng Công An lưu giữ khoảng 1000 tài liệu và ảnh. Những bức ảnh được lựa chọn hơi lộn xộn này tạo cảm giác như một album đại gia đình: những người lớn tuổi bắt tay ký kết tại những hiệp ước có tính lịch sử, những khoảnh khắc cố gắng tạo sự hài hước của các

sỹ quan công an, những bức ảnh các em bé được sinh ra đặt cạnh những bức nói về tội phạm.

“Bảo tàng này được xây dựng để phục vụ cho những người cảnh sát và mọi người tới xem,” Giang nói với tôi. “Đây là nơi các chiến sỹ học được về truyền thống ngành và cũng là nơi tôn vinh những thành tựu của họ.”

Mặc dù để vào được bên trong, tôi cần phải có sự cho phép bởi cảnh sát nhưng chúng tôi có thể thực hiện thông qua cán bộ quản lý khu vực tại cơ quan tôi – họ chào đón tất cả mọi người thực sự có mong muốn được thăm quan. Nếu có những bức ảnh treo trên tường khiến bạn cảm thấy kỳ cục thì hãy nghĩ đơn giản rằng, cũng như với gia đình vậy, chúng ta thường nhìn thấy những điểm thiếu hoàn hảo trong quá khứ của mình. Đây không phải là lúc để đánh giá mà nên là lúc nắm bắt cơ hội hiểu thêm về cách những người công an nhìn nhận về chính mình.

Khi buổi thăm bảo tàng của tôi đến hồi kết thúc, tôi nghe thấy tiếng bóng bàn đang được đánh ở đâu đó và tiếng miết giày thể thao. Đó là hai người cảnh sát về hưu và một chiếc bàn bóng bàn ở trong phòng giải lao của thư viện. Họ nhanh chóng gói ghém đồ đạc, cất bộ quần áo đầy mồ hôi vào trong túi tập của mình rồi thân mật bắt tay nhau và ra về, để lại tòa nhà số 67 với sự vắng vẻ thường thấy.

Bảo tàng Kim Hoàn Sau chuyến ngao du tới Bảo tàng Công An, tôi muốn tới một nơi nào khác mà dễ dàng tiếp cận hơn. Nằm ẩn mình trong một nơi giản dị giữa con đường đông đúc xe cộ ở phố cổ, Đình Kim Ngân chứa đựng một câu chuyện thú vị về những người

làm nghề kim hoàn xưa. Không phải nổi tiếng về bộ sưu tập các chế tác hay những bức tranh sơn dầu, câu chuyện về sự hình thành từ thời cũ nát và khi được gây dựng lại của ngôi đình này lại là điểm thu hút chính.

Hà Nội hay Thăng Long – thủ đô của Việt Nam với nhiều biến chuyển và có rất nhiều tên gọi.

Nhưng nó luôn được biết đến với đặc điểm là trung tâm buôn bán từ xưa. Ngôi đình này được sinh ra bởi nhu cầu buôn bán vào thế kỷ 15. Đình có ba mục đích là phục vụ hành chính, văn hóa và tín ngưỡng. Đây là nơi trung tâm và kết nối ba mục đích này của làng nghề thủ công. Đình Kim Ngân ở phố Hàng Bạc là nơi buôn bán những thỏi bạc, dạy nghề luyện kim, và là nơi dân làng thờ cúng tổ tiên của làng nghề. Không rõ chính xác ngôi đình này được xây dựng khi nào nhưng nó được sử dụng để phục vụ những mục đích trên qua rất nhiều năm, và sau này thêm một số hoạt động nữa như giáo dục, y tế và cả tập huấn quân sự. Năm 2009, ngôi đình này bị hỏng nhiều vì đã tồn tại quá lâu và bị lấn chiếm bởi 25 hộ dân. Với sự giúp đỡ của chính quyền thành phố Toulouse, Pháp và thành phố Hà Nội, ngôi đình này đã được khôi phục để một lần nữa nó phục vụ đúng mục đích là thúc đẩy những hoạt động trao đổi văn hóa và tín ngưỡng.

Vào một số ngày, ngôi đình này mở cửa tới xế chiều để thu hút một hai khách lẻ tẻ bị hút hồn bởi hương khói và những nốt nhạc phát ra từ đây.

Trong căn phòng phía trong, thầy Bạch Vân cùng với một vài nghệ sỹ nữa cất lên những vần thơ về tình yêu và những tổn thất hoàng tộc. Ca Trù, một loại hình âm nhạc với ba nhạc cụ tối giản, là một trong những cách ngôi đình này tiếp cận mọi người ở các lứa tuổi. Bạn cũng có thể chơi một vài giai điệu và nói chuyện với những nghệ sỹ sau buổi biểu diễn. Tôi không muốn rời khỏi đây một chút nào và không hề hào hứng để quay lại âm thanh của con phố Hàng Bạc hiện đại với những tiếng còi, tạp âm của du khách nước ngoài và thứ ánh sáng đã chưa từng tồn tại thời kỳ khi ngôi đình được sinh ra. Những bảo tàng tốt là những cái có sự thay đổi ¬– và Đình Kim Ngân không phải là một ngoại lệ.

Bảo tàng của những con thú nhồi Trường Đại học Khoa học Tự nhiên có một kiến trúc Pháp được xây dựng năm 1904 mang nhiều dư âm của quá khứ. Ở tầng trên cùng, Bảo tàng Động vật nằm trên một mái vòm bằng gạch gốm sứ và nằm cạnh những chiếc cửa kính cao hai tầng trông khá chóng mặt. Lúc này, tôi chỉ muốn nhìn ngắm những người sinh viên đang hối hả đi qua những khung cửa sổ và mơ mộng, nhưng tôi đã tiếp tục những nấc thang với những bộ xương voi đang nhìn xuống từ trên cao và tôi gặp được ông Vũ Ngọc Thanh. Đây là người phụ trách bảo tàng, giáo sư, chuyên gia bảo tồn, nhà nghiên cứu linh trưởng, và giám đốc của một tổ chức quốc tế, là một người nhỏ bé nhưng mạnh mẽ và tận tụy với công việc, và là người mà nụ cười của ông không giấu nổi trí thông minh vô tận của mình.

Giống như những nhà khoa học tận tụy, ông Thanh tỉ mỉ, chú trọng vào quá trình của việc làm và luôn luôn tò mò với những câu hỏi. Ông bắt đầu đưa tôi đi một vòng trong văn phòng, cố gắng mở khóa chiếc cửa bằng gỗ cũ kĩ mặc dù ô cửa kính phía trên chiếc tay nắm của chiếc cửa đã không còn từ lâu. Căn phòng với những chiếc khay đựng dụng cụ, những tờ báo được gấp lại và những chiếc lọ đựng formaldehyde sáng lóa. Không cố gắng tỏ ra dũng cảm, ông Thanh nói với tôi về những giai

đoạn cũ nát vì thiếu tu sửa, đã làm giảm số lượng khách thăm quan bảo tàng, và đôi khi những lúc ông làm việc quá nhiều đến nỗi phải ngủ lại trong văn phòng. Là người có đầu óc thực tế, ông Thanh chia sẻ một cách thẳng thắn nhưng không có sự năn nỉ ở đây. Khi tôi hỏi làm thế nào ông có thể cân bằng giữa công việc và việc quản lý bảo tàng này, ông trả lời rất nhanh rằng: “Nghiên cứu luôn luôn được ưu tiên.” Hay nói cách khác, những con thú luôn luôn được ưu tiên.

Chuyến thăm quan của tôi tiếp tục với nhịp điệu dễ chịu. Những chiếc phòng được chất đầy bởi những con gấu được nhồi xác, bò sát ngâm, và những chú chim bám chặt vào cành với những móng vuốt từ thời tiền sử. Những mẫu vật này hoặc là được thu thập bởi ông Thanh, hoặc là món quà bảo tàng nhận được trong cả thế kỷ qua; tất cả chúng đều mang trong mình những câu chuyện thú vị. Nếu bạn có cơ hội đến đây, tôi khuyên bạn nên hỏi ông về câu chuyện hai chú chim cánh cụt cỡ lớn được phía Nga tặng, hay con thằn lằn được bắt bởi Hoàng tử Nhật Bản, người được cho là đã có thời gian sống ở Việt Nam để nghiên cứu về công tác bảo tồn. Ông Thanh cũng làm tôi có những suy nghĩ thú vị về giáo dục, văn hóa và những rào cản bởi việc thực thi luật đối với việc bảo vệ môi trường sống và các loài thú ở Việt Nam. Đây là nước đứng thứ 20 thế giới về đa dạng sinh học, những việc bảo vệ môi trường mạnh mẽ có trong sách vở, nhưng có tới 20 phần trăm những loại linh trưởng đang trong tình trạng cực kỳ nguy cấp có ở Việt Nam. Bản thân bảo tàng này và người quản lý tận tụy của nó nói lên rất nhiều về sự căng thẳng giữa quá khứ, hiện tại và tương lai của Việt Nam. Đây là bảo tàng xứng đáng được người ta tới thăm nhiều lần – thật đáng buồn nó không có đủ kinh phí để thực hiện điều đó.

Trong lần thăm quan để tìm hiểu những câu chuyện đằng sau những bảo tàng khép mình này, tôi đã gia hạn hợp đồng của tôi ở Hà Nội. Tôi có cảm giác xâm nhập vào quá khứ để cảm nhận một hương vị khác mà những chiếc bảo tàng này mang tới. Những nơi này không giới thiệu nghệ thuật, văn hóa, và lịch sử theo một phong cách hào nhoáng và dễ dàng cảm nhận. Chúng đòi hỏi khách thăm quan gắn kết với những diễn biến căng thẳng theo thời gian đã tồn tại nơi đây, trong trái tim của thủ đô Việt Nam – chính là Thăng Long hay Hà Nội.

Thông tin ĐÌNH KIM NGÂN 42 Hàng Bạc, Hoàn Kiếm, Điện thoại: 0913 544876 Mở cửa hàng ngày tới 17h. Miễn phí. Ca trù biểu diễn vào thứ 4, thứ 6 và Chủ Nhật vào lúc 20h. Vé vào cửa 200.000VNĐ

BẢO TÀNG ĐỘNG VẬT HÀ NỘI 19 Lê Thánh Tông, Hoàn Kiếm Chỉ mở cửa nếu có hẹn trước. Miễn phí. Liên hệ với ông Vũ Ngọc Thanh qua email vnthanh@fpt.vn hoặc gọi 0913 544615.

BẢO TÀNG CÔNG AN HÀ NỘI 67 Lý Thường Kiệt, Hoàn Kiếm Mở cửa thứ 3, thứ 4 và thứ 5 từ 8h30-11h sáng vào 1h30 tới 4h chiều. Miễn phí. Làm việc trực tiếp với cô Giang để yêu cầu vào thăm quan. Bạn sẽ nhận được câu trả lời thường chỉ sau một ngày. wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 185

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Lâu Đài Cổ Tích Dựa theo một loạt bài viết trên blog From Saigon, mục Những Nơi Chưa Được Biết Đến của chúng tôi sẽ đưa bạn đọc đến một trong những địa điểm bị bỏ quên, nơi mà những câu chuyện của nó góp phần tạo dựng nên bộ mặt của thành phố. Ảnh minh họa bởi Lys Bùi

C

ụ Lê Thành Công, thế hệ thứ 3 sống trông ngôi nhà, năm nay đã 83 tuổi.

Trong nhiều năm qua, đã có nhiều nhà báo, học sinh, nhà nghiên cứu và khách đi đường xin phép được chụp hình ngôi nhà ông đang ở. Có lẽ vì thế, cụ đã quá quen thuộc với việc tiếp khách vãng lai hỏi thăm về lịch sử ngôi nhà mà gia đình cụ sinh sống. Vì tuổi cao, ký ức về ngôi nhà đã phai nhoà trông tâm trí cụ. Những gì còn sót lại là những mẩu chuyện ngắn không liền mạch mà chúng tôi cố gắng ghi chép lại.

Vài năm trước, thân phụ của cụ vẫn còn sống mạnh khoẻ cùng với bảy người con cháu trong ngôi nhà. Dòng chữ giấy "Mừng lễ thượng thọ bà Nguyễn Thị Quý, 100 tuổi" vẫn còn đính trên tường. Khi cụ bà ra đi, gian phòng nơi cụ ở vẫn để trống cho đến nay. Ở gian phòng chính có đặt tủ thờ làm bằng loại gỗ quý nay đã hơn trăm tuổi.

Các thế hệ Ông nội của cụ, ônh Lê Minh Trí, người được cho là xây dựng nên ngôi nhà. Ông là người gốc An Nam — miền Trung Việt Nam bây giờ.

Cụ chẳng còn nhớ gì nhiều ngoài việc ngôi nhà không xây dựng bằng bê tông nhưng bằng một

186 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

hỗn hợp đường và vôi. Ngôi nhà đậm chất ba rốc được thể hiện rõ rệt qua mái ngói cao cong vút. Một đặc điểm có thề tìm thấy ở Kiến trúc của nhà Thờ Đức Bà.

Cha của cụ, ông Lê Thành Trí, khai thác gỗ từ rừng Trảng Bom, Định Quán Lữ Đồng Nai, rừng Đồng Xoài ở Bình Phước. Mặc dù là người tiếp quản công việc gia đình quản lý nghiệp gỗ, nhưng cụ Công chưa đi rừng khai thác bao giờ. Và khi khu vực rộng lớn xung quanh căn nhà 237 Nơ Trang Long bắt đầu thay đổi. Từ “khu vực ma ám” — với những câu chuyện về những xác người chết thời chiến được vùi gần khu vực Sông Sài Gòn — sau 1975 khu vực lân cận bắt đầu phát triển thành khu vực đông dân như ngày nay. Từng là một nơi cô độc trong đồn điền cao su, một cánh cổng nối liền trung tâm Sài Gòn và một thế giới không ổn định, giờ đây nó chỉ là nơi trong trí nhớ, nằm giữa cửa hàng Thế Giới Di Động và một café vườn. Và thế giới vẫn xoay đều bên ngoài hàng rào đầy dây leo của căn nhà số 237 Nơ Trang Long. — Ed Weinberg Xem blog From Saigon tại website fromsaigon.tumblr.com. Tư vấn nội dung từ Tim Doling. Để xem thêm các tài liệu về lịch sử Việt Nam của anh, xin ghé historicvietnam.com

GIẢI ĐUA HỒ TRÀM Giải thi đấu Le Fruit Triathlon tháng Năm vừa qua đã biến Hồ Tràm không chỉ là một nơi để thư giãn, mà giờ đây với hình ảnh ấy, An Toàn Bờ Biển Hồ Tràm và An Toàn Bờ Biển Việt Nam sẽ tổ chức một giải bơi đua từ thiện vào ngày 10/8. Resort Hồ Tràm sẽ là khu vực tổ chức giải bơi đua đường biển này với hai giải: 500m bơi và 500m chạy bộ trên cát, và 1km bơi và 1km chạy bộ trên cát. Tất cả tiền thu được sẽ được dùng cho các buổi huấn luyện bơi lội từ thiện cho trẻ em — do chết đuối là nguyên nhân lớn nhất gây tử vong ở trẻ em Việt Nam — và sẽ có giải thưởng từ The Grand — Ho Tram Strip, California Fitness, Boomarang và những nhà tài trợ khác cho các nhóm đua đứng đầu.

Giải Đua Hồ Tràm sẽ bắt đầu lúc 8 giờ sáng ngày 10/8 tại Resort Hồ Tràm. Phí tham gia cho giải 500m bơi/500m chạy bộ là 750,000 đồng và 950,000 đồng cho giải còn lại. Để biết thêm chi tiết, xin ghé trang web hotramoceanrace.weebly.com hoặc xem bài viết ở trang 192

Hình ảnh bởi Thạch Bảo Khanh

SÀN ART PHIÊN 6: KÊU GỌI THAM GIA ĐIỂM SÁCH: PHÍA SAU MỖI NGƯỜI Cùng với Nhà xuất bản Trẻ, tác giả Lorenzo Angeloni đồng thời nhà ngoại giao của Đại sứ quán Ý tại Hà Nội đã ra mắt cuốn tiểu thuyết Phía Sau Mỗi Người. Cuốn tiểu thuyết tâm lý này có tên tiếng Anh là Behind The Stage, xoay quanh cuộc gặp gỡ giữa hai nhân vật, mỗi người mang theo mình những vết thương của cuộc hôn nhân thất bại trước. Cuộc gặp gỡ và chắp nối tưởng như đã trả lại cho họ ý nghĩa trọn vẹn của cuộc sống, nhưng họ vẫn chịu những ám ảnh từ quá khứ.

Câu chuyện diễn ra ở Rome, những khung hình thấp thoáng đằng sau các nốt thăng trầm của hai nhân vật chính. Nổi bật lên là những day dứt nội tâm của hai con người sống trong xã hội hiện đại ngày nay. Bắt đầu cuốn sách bằng những đấu tranh nội tâm của nhân vật nam, tác giả muốn đi sâu phân tích, thể hiện những cảm xúc và những tổn thương của nam nhân vật chính, và khẳng định không hẳn phụ nữ luôn luôn là người phải chịu đựng và chấp nhận. — Huyền Trân Dù câu chuyện không kết thúc có hậu, tác giả đã mở ra một diễn đàn với tên gọi If I were Michi… — tạm dịch là Nếu tôi là Michi… để đón nhận những ý tưởng đóng góp từ các độc giả Việt Nam.

Chương trình Sàn Art studio/lưu trú đang chuẩn bị cho lần thứ 6, và kêu gọi các nghệ sỹ dưới 35 tuổi từ các nước Đông Nam Á đăng ký tham gia với hạn đăng ký là ngày 5/8. Cũng như Phiên 4 — triển lãm nhóm Mind, Flesh, Matter của các nghệ sỹ Lai Diệu Hà, Lê Phi Long và Nguyễn Văn Du vẫn sẽ được trưng bày ở Sàn Art (3 Mê Linh, Bình Thạnh) cho đến ngày 31/7 — phiên mới này sẽ cung cấp cho các nghệ sỹ một studio nghệ thuật và khu nhà ở trong vòng sáu tháng, cộng với một khoản trợ cấp 21 triệu đồng để sáng tác các tác phẩm nghệ thuật dự kiến sẽ được trưng bày vào tháng 5 năm tới. Để biết thêm chi tiết, xin ghé trang web san-art.org/education/how-to-apply-for-san-art-lab-session-6, hoặc gửi email về hello@san-art.org

HÀ NỘI, CHẠY ĐI! Đối với các vị vua thời Trung Cổ, lễ hội Tây Ban Nha San Fermin có thể là một ngày lễ tôn giáo kéo dài mười ngày với nhiều truyền thống lâu đời cùng những nghi lễ tâm linh, nhưng đối với hầu hết chúng ta, San Fermin có nghĩa là khoảng thời gian cho những người tìm kiếm mạo hiểm trên toàn thế giới tụ tập lại cho một điều duy nhất – bị bò rượt.

Với nỗ lực mang lại một chút hương vị “truyền thống” Tây Ban Nha đến thủ đô —nếu truyền thống có nghĩa là một cái chết liều lĩnh do bị bò húc — thì quán bar Tây Ban Nha The Hanoi Bicycle Collective sẽ chỉ thể hiện điều đó trên đường phố. Giải đua sẽ bắt đầu từ Phường Quang An gần Xuân Diệu từ 12 giờ trưa ngày 6/7. Với những con bò thật? Không, tất cả những gì bạn cần làm là cột dây giầy và thêm một chút ý chí.

The Hanoi Bicycle Collective nằm tại 44, ngõ 31, Xuân Diệu, lần đầu tiên tổ chức Giải Đua San Fermin Của Những Con Bò ở Hà Nội. Để biết thêm thông tin về địa điểm cụ thể, xin email về hanoibicycle@gmail.com

wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 187

The final say OPINION

Breaking Up Bad An open letter to women by Alexander Mayall Dear Women, When it comes to you, I’m no expert. You can love me or try to forget me. I might deserve the last part. I’m just A. Mayall after all — what did you expect? I’m not the best and not the worst, just one man with a story you might enjoy. It’s about karma, internet dating and how I got stung by both.

F

or long periods of the last three years, I have used my power as an educated, professional foreigner for evil instead of good. I dated you with no intention of forming a meaningful relationship. I lied to you about my profession, my age, my whereabouts and even my name if I felt like it. If we saw each other more than once, there’s a chance I went behind your back to see other girls then WhatsApp’d you from their house. I used social media to chat to other women, possibly while we were face to face at dinner, and on more than one occasion I went directly from seeing you straight to someone else. I was a great guy living among you in the city. A real keeper.

Before I arrived in Saigon, I’d had some success with women. Don’t scoff at this. I’d also endured failure, however, and it was in the context of this failure that the period of aforementioned offending occurred. No excuses, though, I just wasn’t a very nice guy. The cock and balls of it was that my exwife was a nutcase, so I had to divorce her.

This was the breakdown of a relationship that started with the heady euphoria of a holiday romance, segued into visa complications, then fell apart completely during a slow motion roller derby train wreck that took two years to complete. The split was still B for brutal, and it became part of my emotional backstory for the next 18 months. My Breaking up Bad. After two long of expertly working this story into every conversation I ever had, plus all the debauchery and straight out lies, right on cue I met someone great in Saigon.

A potential game changer, only online. My housemate had dared me and there it was, this attractive, smiling girl was messaging me. So we met, and despite my reservations about the method, she was awesome. Hot, athletic, fun and stable. An insatiable MILF, only with a kind heart and generous spirit too. She had a good job and a similar history to me, without all the debaucherous lying bits, which I left out of my profile as well.

The relationship grew quickly, and before I knew it, I was spending the weekends

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at her upmarket apartment complex and thinking I had it all, because I did. But that’s exactly when it changed. All of a sudden personal moments were being posted on Facebook. Why? Then she was fielding questions about ‘the long term’ that made me sweat. Hmmm — I’ve only known you for six weeks. At the time I wasn’t completely averse to it all, but my reptile brain started to kick in and I became unnecessarily paranoid about her recent history, my own, her child’s father, the future, my goals, my job, China, the ozone layer — and pretty soon alarm bells were ringing along my entire cerebral cortex. I wish I’d had some Xanax to deal with the situation. Instead, I went to my drinking buddies for advice. What do I do bro? How do I handle this chick, man? ********** As expats we skirt a fine line. How long are you here for? What are you doing?

Have you just been arrested? Myriad potentialities can prevent you from going where only some dare to go — the longterm relationship with a local lady. The reality of my situation, at that time, was that I couldn’t in all honesty answer the questions I would have asked myself if I were her. Like, What’s this guy up to?

What’s his plan? Where is this going? And how is he so incredibly handsome? Everything was still up in the air, and as I’ve learnt since, certain women of a certain age want stability and security.

If you’re still asking yourself what you’ll be doing next month and not next year, you might not be measuring up in this department. I wasn’t, and that’s the honest truth. So, despite her declaration of love, in hindsight it wasn’t surprising that after a couple more Q-and-A’s didn’t quite go the way she wanted, she pulled the pin and quickly jumped ship onto an older, more stable, (definitely less exciting), but altogether more reliable charter.

At first I didn’t lose it. I didn’t break up bad. I was calm blue oceans and a couple of

boozy nights out with girls I’d met before to ease the pain. So it was bulletproof me, straight back into the selfish hedonism of my life before this girl. But it was a facade, and the reality of that situation quickly sunk in when I woke up next to some strange blonde girl, and I realised how sad it was, and how sad I’d been, and what a great opportunity I had spurned, and why won’t she pick up my calls?!

What happened? Had my own brain sabotaged me again? Surely she would take me back, I’m amazing. But it was too late. 123 missed calls, 45 Facebook messages — 39 of them apologising for the first six — a bunch of flowers, a card and one inappropriate visit to her building weren’t going to change that.

Unsurprisingly, they only served as confirmation of her decision. The steadier, older ship had already left the port with her in tow, not even waving goodbye. ********** To all the single women still reading I say sorry. To the men who choose to wield their power like second-rate Don Drapers, I say enjoy the ride, but remember that eventually you’ll only have yourself to answer to. For those of you who have arrived here with your girl from home and survived this far, I envy you. These permutations have been sorted out for you, and you’re in a healthy, stable, committed relationship, right? Your penis has an owner, and even though it’s not you, you’re probably quite happy.

My simple advice is to be honest at all times, and stay that way. If you break up bad it will be sad, but remember that you’re in exactly the right place to be just like I was before.

Yours Sincerely, A. Mayall The views published in this article are those of the writer and do not in any way represent the opinions of Word Vietnam

The final say

THE SCENE

On Transience

I

Here today, gone tomorrow — it’s the story with so many of Vietnam’s local expat bands. But is Vietnam’s culture of transience that bad for local music?

Words by Karen Hewell

n May of this year, Word ran an issue on the local music scene in Vietnam, titled The Music Issue. Over 24 pages we documented the country’s burgeoning music scene, from recording studios to venues to local talent. The story’s bread and butter was a roundup of 25 local bands throughout the country that we thought, along with talent, had one very important thing: staying power.

One of them was Hanoi’s quirky, expatled outfit, The Say Oms, a band with a clever name and a violin. To us, they seemed like the perfect musical trifecta — catchy original lyrics, oddball instrumentals and lots of chemistry. They’d only been around for nine months when we featured them, but they already seemed like seasoned pros and had the fanbase to match.

It was pretty exciting to see an expat band

with so much promise, and we thought we’d finally found one that could make a genuine impact on local music. ‘These guys,’ we thought, ‘these guys will stick around.’ To say the least, we were pretty confident.

And soon after, we were rewarded for our hubris.

The Say Oms played their final show at Cama ATK on Jun. 7, a mere month after we had published our music story featuring their promising future. Like a bad high school break-up, we found out via Facebook.

“The finest band in Hanoi comes back to ATK for their final performance all together,” read the event page. “As members travel across the globe to pastures new, ATK hosts them for a summer session and what will undoubtedly be a very special and memorable night.”

Pastures new? But certainly they couldn’t

be finished with this particular pasture.

When we interviewed them, after all, they’d promised us trumpets. Trumpets.

Now they were doing what so many expat bands before them had done — moving on just as they’d wooed us into starry-eyed submission, leaving behind a city’s music scene that so desperately needed them.

At the time, it was hard not to feel a little betrayed, but the situation wasn’t anything new. When it comes to local music and its resident expat bands, we’re like jaded divorcees. Every time we fall in love with some hot new group and their cutesy lyrics, guitar strumming and adorable stage antics, they’re off flirting with another point on a map. We found out quickly that being a devout fan of a local expat-led band is synonymous with heartbreak, and we learned not to be so surprised when they upped and left.

Scenes without Life The trend has had a disheartening effect on both Hanoi and Saigon’s music scenes, which can’t seem to hold on to any nonVietnamese act long enough to build any kind of momentum. The fault can’t even be

placed on the shoulders of the band members themselves. Most come to Vietnam with no plans of staying for the long haul, and even those that do probably don’t play in a band because it’s an avenue to becoming an international music sensation. Life happens, and sometimes that means your band can’t.

So, Vietnam must be forever doomed to a constant carousel of ‘here today, gone tomorrow’ foreign musicians that will never make any lasting impact on the country.

Right?

Not really.

There’s a fundamental flaw in how we think about transience. By assuming that longevity is directly proportional to worth, we sentence any group of foreign musicians with different life trajectories to creative invalidation. To say that an expat band which, say, writes 20 original songs, plays five killer gigs and garners a hundred dedicated fans over the span of a year — and then calls it quits for one reason or another — isn’t worthwhile, then we’ve probably forgotten about the whole reason people make music.

There have been plenty of bands with short lifespans that have created a legacy for themselves that carried on for years, sometimes decades, after the band broke up. Take The Pixies, for example. After their acrimonious split in 1993 — following a playing career of only seven years — the bands’ popularity mounted until they

were widely recognised as one of the most influential bands on the alternative rock boom in the early 1990s.

And when the band reunited in 2004, they managed to play a sold-out reunion tour without having been anywhere near a stage for over a decade, and to many fans who only started listening to their music after their demise. Why? Because they had created a legacy — a legacy which was nurtured by a dedicated fanbase intent on keeping their music alive.

Not Forgotten There’s a lesson in this for music lovers in Vietnam. Part of the responsibility for building a music scene with valuable foreign contributions is squarely on the shoulders of the fans, and not the bands. Going to every gig that a band plays in the year that they’re together before unceremoniously dropping them the moment they part ways is a surefire way to screw over any music scene. Perhaps the problem is in the fact that the fans, too, are usually transient — but certainly through the magic of thumb drives and the Internet, music can be passed down through the expat generations.

Doing something as simple as buying an album when a band is together — and then still playing it after they’ve moved on — could completely transform how expats listen to locally grown music in Vietnam.

Taking it a step further and sharing it with

“They were doing what so many bands before them had done — moving on just as they’d wooed us into starry-eyed submission, leaving behind a city’s music scene that so desperately needed them”

incoming foreign residents could be that much more influential.

It could be the key to a paradigm shift that the country’s expat creative sphere desperately needs, and a way for incoming foreign musicians to appreciate how local expat musicians’ past lives could influence their own contributions to the scene. There is plenty of cross over from one generation to another, and many opportunities to pass along some of Hanoi’s own music legacies.

After all, who says Hanoi’s future residents have to go without The Say Oms’ charming odes to pick-up trucks and their inflatable giraffe mascot? They might not have ever seen them live and on stage — and listening to them through a pair of headphones might be a distant second to seeing them in the flesh — but it’s certainly better than not hearing them at all.

Maybe 10 years down the line — after Hanoi’s music lovers have passed down to the city’s next generation their own love of the band — The Say Oms will play a reunion show. Maybe the audience will be a group of expats and locals who’ve only heard of them through word of mouth and hand-medown playlists. And who knows? Maybe we’ll finally get those trumpets we were promised.

Do you have any thoughts or comments on this piece? If so, please email editor@ wordvietnam.com. We look forward to hearing from you

The last call The Ocean Race in Ho Tram this August is raising funds to help teach local children to swim. We speak to Pam O’Reilly, the woman behind Water Safety Vietnam and the swimming lessons in the Ho Tram area that are saving people’s lives Learning to swim…

is easy when you are young and fearless and you have nice clean water to swim in. Vietnamese kids have the first two items ticked but not always the third.

When I first came here… in 2011, looking at the best ways to teach kids to swim, locating clean water became my first priority. This is when my association with resorts such as Ho Tram Beach Resort began. We used their salt water pool in 2012 and 2013, brought over swim teachers from Australia and had more than 300 local kids complete the swim programme.

The community pool at Ho Tram… is an amazing asset for this small fishing village on the Ho Tram coast. In 2011, parents had no concept of swimming lessons. A consortium of business people got together and built a community pool — The Ho Tram Water Safety Consortium.

They appointed a pool manager and now, each day during the school holidays, 60 kids are being taught to swim by local swim teachers. Lessons are an hour long and each course goes for four weeks. Many can now swim 100 metres and an interschool swim meet is planned. Competition will be fierce!

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Giving something back… to the community has meant involving the people of Ho Tram directly in our project. Local men have been trained by Water Safety Vietnam.

These men volunteer their time to give back to their community in the form of coaching and helping other people to learn to swim.

We’ve made the event easy…

Saving lives… is our absolute priority. More than 35 kids per day drown in Vietnam! This is the third-highest rate in the world. Water Safety Vietnam is committed to reducing that drowning rate. UNICEF notes that ‘teaching children how to swim’ is a proven intervention for child injury prevention, and that this could save many lives.

My hopes are that… this event will

The Ocean Race… is the idea of New Zealander, Steve Meikle. When I first met him, I was impressed by his enthusiasm and how committed he was in assisting us at achieving our goal. (As well as organising a fun weekend and a motivation to get fitter!)

We chose Ho Tram Beach Resort for the race… because it has great facilities and the location is stunning. The resort is ecologically friendly and provides a beautiful calm oasis not far from bustling Vung Tau or Ho Chi Minh City. It is very easy to access and affordable. The seas are normally calm

at this time of the year and the sand hard and easy to run on. so you don’t need any specialised equipment or to be a seasoned triathlete or athlete. You can choose the run or swim a distance that suits you best. Make up a team with your friends or work colleagues and have a great weekend away.

raise awareness of the issue of children drowning in Vietnam. Perhaps after a successful first year, this will become an annual event and provide much needed funds to continue our work.

By taking part… or just being there you will add support to a very good cause.

But more importantly, you will enjoy a fun weekend with like-minded people interested in surf and sand, good company and delicious seafood.

The Ocean Race takes part on Aug. 10 at Ho Tram Beach Resort. For more information go to hotramoceanrace.weebly.com or email Steve on oksteven@hotmail.com. To find out about Pam’s project in Ho Tram, go to watersafetyvietnam. com or hotramwatersafety.com