CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 7 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS
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Contents Jul. 2016
68
54
100
THE TALK 010 / Clean and Green
Finally there is a focus on the environment
011 / The Big Five July in Vietnam
BRIEFINGS 12 / Saigonella
An arts, environmental and music festival to remember
14 / The Run
The only way is up
18 / Keep Hanoi Clean
Picking up Hanoi’s litter, piece by piece
20 / School on the Boat
Education for those most in need
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26 / When it Comes to the Crunch
100 / Open-Mic Night
The world’s a stage, so let’s go and Vegetables grown in a container with grace it hydroponics
INSIDER 52 / The Many Faces of Vietnam
EAT & DRINK
106 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
This month’s review: Dieu’s Cuisine
An interview with HIV-Aids advocate, Pham Thi Hue
108 / Che Muoi Sau
54 / The Water Puppet Village
110/ Mystery Diner HCMC
A visit to the home of a dying art
60 / Where the Streets Have No Name They’re not ghost towns, but they could be
68 / The Suburbs
‘New urban areas’ and modern Vietnam
Hanoian sweets, the traditional way Mountain Retreat gets the onceover
112 / Hu Tieu Nam Vang
The history of what was once Saigon’s best-loved noodle soup
112
Contents Jul. 2016
114
120
132
TRAVEL
142 / Day Tripper
COLUMNS
114 / Kiev
148 / Bar Stool
144 / The Alchemist
150 / Coffee Cup
146 / The Therapist
154 / Top Eats
156 / Medical Buff
Some cities survive for millennia, some just don’t. This one lasted 16 years
160 / City Map
158 / A World of Good
HCMC
159 / Book Buff
132 / Notes from Another City
34 / To-Do List
168 / Body and Temple
40 / Just In
186 / Know Your City
The end of a very long road
162/ HCMC City Guide
FINAL SAY
HANOI
166 / Day Tripper
190 / Leaving Teaching
42 / To-Do List
176 / Bar Stool
When you’re entrenched in ELT, getting out of it is tough
46 / Just In
180 / Top Eats
192 / Ten 10
138 / Hanoi City Guide
188 / City Map
Two years after the Maidan Revolution, we visit the capital of Ukraine
120 / The Forgotten City
Entry 6: Delta Doings
136 / The Motorbike Diaries
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CONTRIBUTORS This month we asked our team to tell us whether they prefer to live in an apartment or a house HARRY HODGE Contributor When I was single, I liked having a small apartment because it meant there weren’t many rooms to clean. Now that I have a family, I find the need for space for all of our stuff is never enough and I sometimes daydream about having a house. SIAN KAVANAGH Staff Writer Both houses and apartments are great for different places or periods of life. As a student, my shared apartment was my haven of friends and camaraderie, though all my childhood memories are fondly remembered from the setting of my old family house. One of the benefits of having a house means there’s less chance of having noisy upstairs neighbours, who always seem to be break dancing at 3am. NICK ROSS Chief Editor I’ve lived in both and as long as I have a balcony, I’m fine wherever I live. But, ah, having a house and a garden. Now, that’s nice! JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer I never liked the idea of living in a tiny box far from the ground surrounded by a bunch of other tiny boxes inside a bigger box. Houses have more character for me. JULIE VOLA Photo Editor For me it depends of the place and how it is designed. I lived in a very cute, quirky, atypical small house for two years with friends and I really loved it. Then I needed to live on my own and moved to a studio apartment and I love it too, ok, maybe a bit more. Probably because it’s a new building, so I don’t have to deal with the old house hassle and it’s on the ninth floor so it means great light and no mosquitos plus I have a balcony on which I have started a little garden.
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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor nick@wordvietnam.com
VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam.com
MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com
JULIE VOLA Photo Editor julie@wordvietnam.com
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SIÂN KAVANAGH Staff Writer sian@wordvietnam.com
RODNEY HUGHES Staff Photographer rodney@wordvietnam.com
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JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer (Hanoi) jesse@wordvietnam.com
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For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to Clean Up Hanoi, Amelie Huynh Le Maux, Peter Cornish, Jessica Hilston, Matt, Nguyen Hoang Trung, Amazin Le Thi, Keep Hanoi Clean, School on the Boat, Emily Petsko, Edward Dalton, Adrian Tan, Albert Tiu, GreeOx, Elite Dental, Dr. Tran Hung Lam, Nguyen Duc Nguyen, Harry Hodge, Pham Thi Hue, Eduardo Culbeaux, Dong Cac, Danielle Labbe, Martha, Sophia & Linus, MinhHa, Uyen & Billy, Ebba, Chris & Sophia, Billy Gray, Elle Beth Walls, Tyler Purdon, Lizzie Millard, Paul Salnek, Nadja Pizzimenti, Shereen Kassam, Stewart Gatsi, Tom Sanders, Y-Kroc, Dieu’s Cuisine, Tran Cam Thu, Boris Lopatin, Mountain Retreat, Don Wills, Matt Dworzanczyk, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Birdcage, Always Harry Potter, Hanoi Taco Bar, Dr. Rory Keith Fernandez So, Dana McNairn, Hoang Van Truong, Phil Kelly, Saigon Lookout, Pendolasco, Ed Haysom, Owen Salisbury and David Legard
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MADS MONSEN Creative Director I enjoyed living in houses until the moment someone broke in at night and drugged me while sleeping. Now I enjoy the comfort zone that a 20th floor apartment gives me as well as a stunning view of the city.
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Prelude
A
bout five years ago my family started to talk about moving from our tiny District 1 apartment in Ho Chi Minh City to a house in the suburbs. We were against setting ourselves up in Thao Dien, the main expat enclave in District 2. The area had a stigma attached to it and both I and my wife were determined not to remove ourselves from the on-the-street, bustling lifestyle that
moved out to Thao Dien, and within weeks we were happy with our choice. The area may be a bubble tucked away from the ‘real’ Vietnam, but with all its street food, cafes and alleyways it’s still got that Vietnamese buzz that for me makes this country tick. Plus we had space — space to live, and most importantly, space to breathe. What I realised is that to live somewhere like Phu My Hung or the various new urban areas in Hanoi, or to live in a new-build apartment block, you have to be a certain type of person in search of a certain type of lifestyle. I’m not that person. Nor is my wife. This doesn’t
mean there is anything wrong with this type of accommodation or lifestyle. Far from it. Rather it’s a lifestyle choice. And it is this that we are focusing on in this month’s issue, the choice that means buying into a vision of ‘Modern Vietnam’. Putting our cover story together has meant looking at this country from afar and trying to make sense of the mass urban development sweeping through its largest cities. It’s a phenomenon that is easy to be negative about. Yet we’ve tried to avoid that. Instead we’ve tried to understand why this trend is so central to the transformation of this country. — Nick Ross
CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 7 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS
The Suburbs THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS
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The
we both love about Vietnam. So we started looking at Ho Chi Minh City’s answer to Singapore — Phu My Hung. There were lots of Vietnamese restaurants there, we told ourselves, large swathes of public spaces, and except during rush hour, the suburb was only a 20-minute drive from District 1. Yet the more time we spent looking at apartments and houses in Phu My Hung, the more we realised that the area was not for us. As someone once said to me, it was like Vietnam wrapped in cellophane, an anaesthetised version of the country we know today. So we reluctantly
THIS MONTH'S COVER Design by DH Advertising Photo by Julie Vola
Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.
Inbox Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us at nick@ wordvietnam. com — we’re at your fingertips.
How to Build a Tourist Town (June 2016, Page 88) [Phong Nha is a] very beautiful area. We were lucky enough to do a tour with Oxalis. Is it true what they say about the cable car? — FM Starts with a community masterplan. — TL Make it a sustainable plan to develop the community. Limited stages of development. And education. Local and international. Just do not let greed take over. Stage by stage in an environmental way, but also let the local people benefit. — KA
Those Who Got Away (June 2016, Page 84) So true! Everything you accomplish while in Vietnam means nothing when you return home. After a five-year stint in
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Ho Chi Minh City, it took me almost two years to get the job that I wanted. I had to remove any reference to Vietnamese work experience, and make it appear as if I never left my home country. It was a shame. I did so much in my time there to have it all be erased. — LP
The Future of Expat (June 2016, Page 10) I much appreciated your piece on Vietnam Off the Record. I did not leave a comment since I am in the group and have a decent relationship with the admin who is a lot more grounded than most of the trash who post on that group. I have blocked so many since they were so repulsive that I miss most of it now, but if there is a time when the term ‘dumb white trash’ applies, this is it. I do understand some valid frustrations,
especially from those trying to run a business, but it too often smells like racism to me. — Anon Nicely written and very on point! The only thing I would have added was the hypocrisy of these same people that complain all the time and use derogatory racist terms about the indigenous population BUT never seem to consider their wives, girlfriends, mates and lovers that have to deal with their seemingly pitiful endless life of misery OR that their children share half of their DNA with the same people they vocally despise. Thank you for finally posting something! — JK Lived in the backpacker area for four years. I’ve seen and just about heard it all sadly. — KP
I Love Vietnam Dear Vietnam, I’ve recently had the pleasure to visit your beautiful country. I went to Saigon, Cu Chi, Hanoi, Halong Bay, Cai Be, Vinh Long, Can Tho and Phu Quoc Island. I visited museums, The Wildlife at Risk headquarters, walked through rice paddies, helped at a school that teaches English, watched a water puppet show, spent a night at a duck farm and enjoyed incredible food. I found your people to be warm, friendly and inviting. I will always treasure these memories. Thank you. — Wendell Vaught
Talk Lead PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
Clean and Green Finally there is a media focus on the environment
L
ast month the Ocean Cleanup project secured the required funding for its North Sea prototype test which is the first step in creating an ocean cleanup system. Spanning 100 metres and deployed 23km off the coast of The Hague for one year, the floating barrier will clean up debris in the sea while being monitored in all weather conditions, including gale-force winds and waves. It is hoped that by 2020 a 100 kmlong structure will be deployed between Hawaii and California; within 10 years the barrier is expected to clean up about half the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. That such attention is being paid to our seas, the largest trashcan in the world, is positive. But for the time being it’s not going to help Vietnam and other countries in this region. By not having the funds — or at present, the will — to invest or take part in such a project, we will fail to get much benefit. The problem, however, is not so much financial, but the understanding that we need to keep our country clean. And in Vietnam, without a financial imperative and with the government focusing on what it sees as bigger issues, it is difficult to see how much can be done.
The Seeds Yet there is hope. Whatever your thoughts about the dead fish debacle at the end of May,
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one thing it did do was to bring the need to look after the environment into the limelight. But this is not the first time the environment has become a focus. The inaugural Clean Up Vietnam Day in midApril saw around 3,000 people getting involved in picking up trash around Ho Chi Minh City. The legacy continues with events like Saigonella teaming up with the Clean Up Vietnam organisers to promote the ideal — keep this country clean. More recently, Clean Up Hanoi has entered the media eye (see the article on page 18). Driven by Hanoi-based expat, James Kendall, the goal is simple; to get “the government and the people to work together to fix [the litter] problem.” Recognised by the chairman of Hanoi’s Municipal People’s Committee, and honoured with an official city pin, James has received phenomenal coverage in both local and international press. As we speak, Leave No Footprint Vietnam (facebook.com/LeaveNoFootprintVN) is garnering attention as Bob and his dog walk 1,700km from Saigon to Hanoi on an epic littercollecting journey. Picking up litter as he goes, Bob is holding clean-up events at beaches, villages and in towns and cities. The result, he hopes, is to get people who live outside the country’s big cities to understand the need and benefit of keeping their country clean. It is a result that the likes of Vietnam Sach
& Xanh (vietnamsachvaxanh.org) also hope for — for over three years the group has been holding similar events around the country. They have been featured extensively in both print and broadcast media in Vietnam.
A Generation All these initiatives are providing media coverage and education that not just tells people to keep Vietnam clean, but explains why it is something they should do. For someone who’s grown up in a country obsessed with keeping its streets clean — failing to pick up dog poop in the UK results in an on-the-spot £100 (VND3.25 million) fine — it is difficult for me to fathom why people in Vietnam don’t have the same obsession. Do they believe someone will do it for them? Do they just not care? Or do they not see why it’s important? Having spoken to a number of people about this, I believe it’s a mixture of all three; at present there is little emotional and rational connection between a clean Vietnam and the everyday person who needs to be responsible, at least in part, for keeping it clean. Fortunately, it seems, this is connection is starting to be made. It will take a generation to get Vietnam to appreciate the benefit of being clean and green. And it will take time before the likes of the Ocean Cleanup project reaches this country. But we’re now starting to see lift-off. — Nick Ross
Big5 The
Clubs that are still open, vertical runs, comedy, exhibitions and flea markets
a
b
1
c
The Observatory
Hanoi Vertical Run
Observatory, HCMC Throughout July
Landmark 72, Hanoi Saturday, Jul. 9
We can tell you loud and clear: Saigon’s favourite DJ venue, the Observatory, is operating as per normal. With the demise of an equally well-known neighbour famed for putting on live music and DJs, rumours have surfaced that Obs is going the same way. But at Word we’ve had reliable information that it isn’t. Got it? To see Observatory’s schedule for July, turn to page 34
Work by Khoa Le from Happy Never After
The Hanoi Vertical Run: 72 Floors is a long way up
Comic Aidan Killian on the big stage
a)
b)
c)
2
Happy Never After
Craig Thomas Gallery, HCMC Until Jul. 20 We normally don’t put art in our Big Five, but we’re so enamoured by the work of Khoa Le that we’ve relented. With her show running at Craig Thomas Gallery until Jul. 20, here is a chance to see some amazing work that shows off Khoa’s prodigious imagination and her impressive ability to work with various media. Craig Thomas Gallery is at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC. For info click on cthomasgallery.com
3
Imagine climbing 72 floors in under 10 minutes. That’s what last year’s winner of the Hanoi Vertical Run, Thomas Dold, managed to do. And no, he didn’t fly or take the elevator. The latest battle to the top of Vietnam’s tallest building, Landmark 72, will include a starstudded cast that besides Dold will also see Mark Bourne, Omar Bekkali, Suzy Walsham, Melissa Moon and a host of local entrants vying for the fastest time. For more info turn to page 14
To Market, To Market 4
Saigon Outcast, HCMC Jul. 17 and Jul. 24
If you’ve been following this humble rag you will know that flea markets are bigger than the word ‘big’. So much so that our favourite District 2 venue, Saigon Outcast, has not one but two markets for you this month — their first monthly Boho Market on
Sunday, Jul. 17 and the Free Range Market on Sunday, Jul. 24. Both perfect for anyone looking to buy products not normally found at all these shopping malls we are being graced with. For more info turn to page 37 and 38. Saigon Outcast is at 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC. Doors are from 12pm to 6pm
Comedy with Aidan Killian Game On Saigon, HCMC and CAMA ATK, Hanoi 5 Jul. 29 and Jul. 30 The last two stand-up comedy shows in Saigon and Hanoi have been packed. There’s a reason for it — the quality of the comedy. It’s getting better and better. In an attempt to keep up the momentum, the organisers are bringing back Irish comic Aidan Killian for the second time this year. Why? Because the audience love him. Sponsored by Pasteur Street Brewing Company, we know you’ll love this show, which is why we’re pushing it so much. For more info turn to page 38 and page 44
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Briefings HCMC
Saigonella A new music, arts and environmental festival descends on Saigon
T
here are three things that are guaranteed to get people excited and partying in Saigon; good music, cheap beer and an opportunity to escape the city, even if only for a couple of hours. Saigonella, the inaugural festival held in District 7, promised all three as well as a host of activities right on the outskirts of the city centre. It was easy for my friends and me to know that we had made it to Saigonella, as the crowds of people, bright lights, and the low pulsing of drums and bass in the distance greeted us. Walking into Clubhouse Saigon was like stepping into another dimension, the
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typically pristine garden restaurant had transformed into an explosion of music, artwork, people, and mud from the heavy storms that had just hit the event only an hour earlier.
Partnership The Saigonella team comprised of 11 people and the festival took about a year to coordinate, according to Amélie Huynh Le Maux who had been working on communications for the event. The concept was born as an idea for a party that eventually spiralled into a full-blown festival. “All of us began to share our qualities, our ideas and our contacts, and it grew to
become Saigonella, a festival dedicated to gathering and to environment,” says Amélie. Saigonella partnered with Clean Up Vietnam to help keep the space free from litter and damage that can go hand-in-hand with all-day parties and festivals. Peter Cornish, one of the volunteers with the organisation, remarked: “It’s been really great working here and having this ongoing environment awareness combined with the event.” Even after the transition into the nighttime party, people were still helping him and the other Clean Up Vietnam members collect rubbish and properly dispose of it. In true homage to the American festival Coachella from which the –ella of the name
PHOTOS BY RODNEY HUGHES
is borrowed, the day was filled with bright neon colours, artwork, trendy outfits, and an overwhelming amount of things to do. The space was transformed with decorative streamers, circus tents and quiet, illuminated spaces to chill and talk.
Diversity The festival lasted for an impressive 19 hours starting at noon Saturday an continuing on untill the last revellers left the premises at 7am on Sunday morning. The line-up consisted of 11 main stage acts and 21 different performers on the garden stage with the music ranging from hip-hop, funk and rap to EDM, house and disco. The
diversity ensured everyone was dancing. Jessica Hilston, a visitor who arrived in the afternoon for some of the earlier activities, said that the event seamlessly transitioned from day to night, especially with such an ambitious line-up catering to a varied audience. The daytime activities included pony rides, yoga, tango dancing, and live painting, as well as a small artisanal market selling hand crafted and locally made products. Matt from Minnesota, US, decided to spend his last evening in Saigon at Saigonella. “I had no idea what to expect,” he said. “I’ve only been in Vietnam four days and I’m leaving at midnight, but it was definitely worth coming.” Though there was no option to camp at
the festival, the organisers provided a shuttle bus running to and from District 1 every 30 minutes, and the partiers still seemed to bring their full festival gear. The good vibes were tangible throughout and surrounded everyone who entered the hidden world of Saigonella; from the strangers sharing glitter and dance moves to the old friends expanding their social groups and just enjoying each other’s company. Will there be a Saigonella 2017? The team has confirmed nothing yet, but after the success of their first year with 1,500 revellers trekking out to District 7 to cut some shapes and share some laughs, it’d be hard to imagine Saigonella not making a comeback. — Siân Kavanagh
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Briefings Hanoi
2
9-year-old Nguyen Hoang Trung (Daniel) is one of the growing number of Vietnam-based athletes taking part in vertical runs. He works for a global management consultancy firm in Ho Chi Minh City, and on Saturday, Jul. 9 he will be attempting to climb his way to the top of Vietnam’s tallest building. He will achieve this feat not via the lifts or a helicopter and a helipad, but together with hundreds of other competitors, Daniel will be racing up 1,914 steps. That’s 350 metres up into the sky, or up 72 storeys worth of concrete, glass and metal. “So far I have participated in five vertical races,” says Daniel. “Three were in Singapore (2009 to 2011), one in Ho Chi Minh City (2011) and one was in Hanoi (2013). The buildings have different numbers of floors so it is not easy to compare, but the toughest one was definitely the Hanoi Vertical Run in 2013.” Despite the toughness of the challenge, Daniel managed in 2013 to reach the top of Landmark 72 in a mere 16 minutes 8
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seconds. This put him among the top 20 in the 12 to 29-year-old age group and in the top 50 overall. This year Daniel remains humble — he simply says he hopes to complete the journey to the top — but he has a “stretched target” of less than 15 minutes. It’s a big ask. Regardless, he’s looking forward to his latest challenge. “Vertical runs are special as they give you a [huge] adrenaline rush in a short time,” he explains. “For normal road running, you may start feeling tired or ‘worked out’ after only 5km or 7km, or beyond 25 minutes. However, in a vertical climb, close to hitting around the 30th floor (or about six to eight minutes depending on your speed), you can already tell your energy is burning big time.”
No Gain, No Pain To get to the top of a 72-storey building in such a fast time requires a serious training regime. In Daniel’s case, he trains in highrise buildings (between 24 and 40 storeys high) either by himself or with his team, two or three times a week. In each session he
climbs twice the number of the floors of the actual competition building. So, “depending on the building you’re climbing for training and the number of rounds, a session can take between 30 and 45 minutes.” Despite all the stairs, he admits, it’s nothing like climbing 72 levels non-stop. It may all sound like madness, pain without any gain, but for Daniel it’s quite the opposite. It’s tough, it’s painful, you sweat a lot, “and if it is your first time, somewhere along the way you might ask yourself why you signed up for this and might even want to give up.” But, he adds, don’t. “The feeling of hitting the finish line at the top is glorious and unforgettable,” he says. Registration is now closed for the Hanoi Vertical Run, but spectators for what is expected to be a huge event are welcome to come along to Keangnam Tower in My Dinh, Hanoi for the event. The race starts at 3pm and finishes at 7pm on Saturday, Jul. 9, with competitors leaving the start line in pre-assigned groups, five minutes apart. For info click on sportingrepublic.com/ hanoiverticalrun
BRIEFINGS
HANOI
The Run Most runs are horizontal. The one this month in Hanoi defies gravity
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Briefings National
BRIEFINGS
NATIONAL
On the Margins Giving marginalized youth an opportunity
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T
his summer Hai Phong will host the first ever Leadership, Sports and Mentoring Programme for LGBTQ Youth and Children Living with or Displaced by HIV/AIDS. The name is a mouthful, but the mission is clear; to bring together two unrepresented groups of Vietnamese children for a week’s worth of learning, community and fun. The programme is the first of its kind in Vietnam. Developed by Amazin Le Thi and Pham Thi Hue and partnered with Viet Pride in Hanoi, The Minor Hotel Group and Jolen Consulting PR, the programme aims to offer a week of empowerment to children who have been disowned for being LGBTQ, or have suffered a loss of family due to HIV/AIDS, or are living with the illness themselves. Amazin Le Thi is a Vietnamese adoptee who was raised between Australia and the United States, and currently is also an Athlete Ally and Vietnam Relief Services Global Ambassador. She has worked as a professional body builder, health and fitness guru, actress and producer, and has now turned her efforts to social change and HIV advocacy. Pham Thi Hue was the first woman in Vietnam who, having contracted HIV from
her husband, came out and started campaigning for better recognition of the disease. She founded a group called the Red Flamboyant Group (Hoa Phuong Do) that has offered a community to herself and other women who are affected by or suffering from HIV/AIDS. Her story was adapted in 2015 into a play of the same name.
An Opportunity This first year of the programme offers a lot of opportunities for the 60 children involved, according to Amazin. “When you’re marginalised, it’s just nice to be able to switch off and have fun and meet other kids with similar experiences and leaders and mentors who care and want to help you,” she explains. Interest is being shown by many embassies in Hanoi, including the Dutch embassy, which is providing football equipment. Speakers from the Canadian, Australian, Dutch and US embassies will visit the programme and give guest talks, as well as speakers from the Tyler Clementi Foundation and White House Initiative on Asian Americans and Pacific Islanders. “Many LGBTQ youth have a broken education because they may have been kicked out of their homes or displaced from school,” says Amazin, “[Programmes like this] give
them a spark of hope where we can engage them with different allies within the community, in terms of individuals and corporations.”
Continuing Support The team will be looking at what assistance they can give to the students in terms of connections, scholarships, and mentorship. “It is important to be able to have someone you can look up to and relate to, and this leadership we’re offering will hopefully stay with them their entire lives,” says Amazin. Beyond the education and leadership aspects, there will also be workshops in meditation and yoga, as well as team sports, and opportunities for carefree play and team building. Amazin also plans to help educate some of the older students in strength training from her experience as a body builder. Amazin and the team are already planning to expand the programme for 2017 with more workshops and programmes in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and the United States. She also hopes attendees of the pilot session in Hai Phong wil return as guides and mentors for the next class of children. — Siân Kavanagh Learn more about the organisation and how you can help at amazinlethifoundation.org. For more information on the work of Pham Thi Hue, turn to page 52
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Briefings Keep Hanoi Clean Hanoi
J
ames Kendall simply wants to clean up Hanoi. He hasn’t been doing anything revolutionary — just picking up trash — but this action has gotten the world’s attention. The chairman of Hanoi’s Municipal People’s Committee has already honoured him with an official city pin, and he was even featured in the Wall Street Journal last month. Like most modern movements, Keep Hanoi Clean got its start after going viral. In May, Hanoi’s citizens shared images of the group cleaning up a canal in Yen Hoa ward across their social media. At first, local authorities were offended, and insisted they’d already cleaned
A temporary fix to a big problem
the same area some months earlier. But James says he’s not trying to criticise the government’s work. “I’m just here to do something with my life,” he says. “It’s about getting the government and the people to work together to fix this problem.”
Commitment Inspired by the mass fish deaths that recently plagued Vietnam’s central coast, James decided to take action to clean the waters in his own backyard. “The name Hanoi means the city among rivers, but it’s so sad that a lot of them are going nowhere.” We all see the trash floating by, but
how many people would actually put on rubber boots and jump into dark water to fish it out? James has found everything from snakes to spiders to carcasses while wading through Hanoi’s waterways; even a nail through the foot couldn’t deter him. “I’m going back in!” he insisted, as someone tended his wound at a recent Sunday afternoon clean-up. He’s so committed, some might call him crazy. This guy would go just about anywhere in the name of the environment. He recently posted a GoPro video from inside a blocked storm drain. He was looking for a way to get the water flowing again, but instead he found a massive cockroach lair.
Awareness and Enforcement The group’s strategy is simple; they pick a problem area and work every weekend until it’s clean, then move onto another. James hopes to expand by organising the
group into districts that can divide and conquer the massive task ahead of them. He also has plans to create a website and smartphone app that can pinpoint dumping grounds across Hanoi, and may even take to the road to do small projects in other cities across Vietnam. “I think change can happen if enough people are involved, and I think the Vietnamese people are ready for change,” he says. “It’s possible. It’s going to be really difficult, though. If I can get more expats involved, I will have a lot more support from the government.” With over 7,000 members on Facebook, the group has a serious following. But
James worries about their longevity. “Right at the get-go, we had all these people watching us. But are they all still paying attention?” To affect real change, James thinks the city needs more laws against burning and dumping trash, plus enforcement and penalties. Awareness is spreading, slowly but surely. Authorities are now actively encouraging environmental protection through ‘practical action’, and it doesn’t get more practical than putting on a pair of gloves and cleaning up the city yourself. — Jesse Meadows For more information, check out Keep Hanoi Clean on Facebook
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PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
“I told my teenage classes about it, and I asked, what if I gave you money [to go in there]? How much money would I have to give you? And some of the kids were like, oh, 100 million, or you’d have to give me a billion. I say, guess how much I did it for? Zero!” James has been teaching in the capital for three years, but lately has begun to push his work aside to focus on cleaning up the city instead.
Charity School on the Boat of
the Month
A
compact community of shanty houses lines the Red River in the Phuc Xa neighbourhood of Ba Dinh District. The poorest families live directly on the water, their houses pieced together with tin, tarpaulin and whatever materials they can scavenge. A makeshift bridge of wooden planks connects their front doors to the shore, but the children don’t mind wading through the murky waters. Viet Anh, a gregarious seven-year-old in a New York City T-shirt, rattles off addition and subtraction problems while his grandmother beams with pride. He is one of 23 children in Hanoi receiving an education thanks to a
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Bringing education to those most in need
French charity called School on the Boat. Founded in 2011 by a group of friends, the organisation raises funds from international donors, allowing children from impoverished families to attend public schools. In addition to Phuc Xa village, sponsored children live in illegal settlements along the river in two other areas; an island under Long Bien Bridge and a shanty town in Long Bien. Few of these families have a steady income, and the settlements lack sanitation and waste management. Doing odd jobs like driving a motorbike taxi, farming, selling items at the market, or gathering recyclable waste, families typically earn between VND50,000 and 100,000 per day.
Doing the Maths Many of the children lack birth certificates, which are required for public school enrolment. Faced with high hospital bills, some parents are forced to flee immediately after giving birth. The organisation helps them secure proper documentation, and a monthly donation of US$25 (VND560,000) covers the cost of schooling, books and supplies per student. Pham Thi Linh, the grandmother of Viet Anh, said her grandson loves maths and playing with new friends at school. “In school he’s quite independent,” she says. “The teacher says he’s intelligent and learns very quickly.” Likewise, Nghiem Thi Ngan, a house
PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS
cleaner, said her two daughters, who are sponsored through the charity, love going to school. “When children go to school, they can learn many activities, adapt to society and make friends,” she says. In addition to the sponsorship programme, the charity also provides oneon-one tutoring sessions to children at its office and classroom in Phuc Xa, as well as monthly cultural and sports activities. The classroom has a library and several computers, all of which were donated.
Early Start Children can be sponsored up to the age
of 18, but the organisation prefers to start sponsoring children when they are six years old and ready to enter school for the first time. However, one sponsored student did not attend school until the age of eight. Another sponsored student who is 15 attends school, then comes home and does manual labour for three hours to help his family. After graduating from the programme, some students receive vocational training from the Life Project 4 Youth charity. Starting next school year, the charity will sponsor three additional children, bringing the total to 26. “Every year we try to find some new
kids to enrol at school,” says Aurélie Boess, a project coordinator at the charity. Nguyen Ha Thanh, a Vietnamese social worker for the organisation, builds relationships with the communities and helps recruit new students via word-of-mouth. “We are happy when witnessing our children playing with others and when they have had a great class,” reads a statement by School on the Boat organisers. “They all deserve to be happy and we are proud of being some part of it.” — Emily Petsko For more info or to donate click on schoolontheboat.fr
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Briefings Hanoi
Full Plastic Jacket Paintball or airsoft anyone?
W
hether you’re harbouring some distant childhood military fantasy or just in need of some fun outdoor action, Rung Thong Xanh Paintball Club (RTX) has got you covered, with entry at a mere VND50,000 per player. Despite the name, it’s not exclusively for paintball enthusiasts, as they also maintain a substantial arsenal of airsoft weaponry. For the uninitiated, airsoft guns more closely resemble real weapons and fire small plastic pellets, usually propelled by either spring, motor or green gas (propane and silicon oil). They’re frequently used in military training exercises or by recreation enthusiasts, and can sting a bit if you take one to the flesh from a reasonable distance. The RTX venue is in Minh Phu, around 30km north of Hanoi just beyond the airport. The route there is simple enough to plan in advance, using the main airport highway for most of the journey. It boasts a large, all-natural forest arena fully outfitted with oil drums, trenches and barricades. The nearby buildings consist of a picturesque house and gardens, presumably belonging to the owner, as well as a large double garage — this part is for the players. The garage is the starting point for the activities ahead, and acts as storage facility, briefing room and photo opportunity. Piles of camouflaged fatigues await the players who either want to greatly enhance the jungle-combat atmosphere or simply want to keep their favourite H&M shirt free of mud or paint. There are even
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padded camo jackets for added protection, although from experience I can testify they are mostly useful for storing your smartphone and keys in the reinforced pockets. The airsoft pellets or paintball rounds are not painful enough to warrant the use of serious armour.
Welcome to the Suck For our morning of military exercises, we opted for the airsoft option. The M16 and AK-47 replicas were just too cool to ignore, eliciting an intense nostalgia of a childhood saturated with video games in which I saved Europe from Nazi Germany on more than one occasion (difficulty setting). Some of the equipment is a bit dated, and we have to learn a few quick-fix techniques to overcome jamming issues. We each get a starting pack of 200 pellets (VND100,000), more than enough for a few games of Team Deathmatch. The health and safety brief is more an exercise in common sense; wear eye protection, no point-blank executions and don’t shoot anyone who is showing their surrender or defeat by holding their gun above their head. The games are all overseen by a staff member who does their best to make sure rules are abided by, but who seemed to spend most of their time trying not to get shot. Team Deathmatch, in which each team simply must eliminate every member of the opposing team first, is just one style of gameplay the RTX overseer suggests. The others read like an instruction manual to multiplayer mode in Call of Duty. Capture the Flag involves each team trying to capture the flag (or
other prop) from the opposing team HQ, and then bring it safely back to their own base. Free-for-All is as chaotic as it sounds, and sees the last-person-standing declared the winner — a perfect opportunity for temporary alliances to end in betrayal. King of the Hill sees one team defending a location for a fixed amount of time, with the attacking team victorious only if they can overthrow the defended position before time runs out. We only played airsoft at RTX, but I can definitely see the potential for paintball here, too. Paintball is more expensive, however, as the ammo must be imported — a whopping VND650,000 for 250 paintballs. The main downside of airsoft is that it relies on an ‘honour system’ whereby players are relied upon to surrender once they have been shot. With paintball, this issue is neutralised by the massive splats of paint that appear on your camos after taking a hit. As a concept, neither is particularly popular in Hanoi, with one other prominent paintball centre recently closing as a result of too few players. With the huge popularity of both games that I’ve seen in other countries, I’m confident that things will soon change, and people will see the potential joy of spending a morning trying to shoot your friends and colleagues in the face. — Edward Dalton Rung Thong Xanh Paintball Club is located in Minh Phu, around 30km north of Hanoi. It is on the left of Road 35, about half way up the length of Cau Ca Lake. Group reservations can be made on 0962 851111 (in Vietnamese and English)
PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
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Briefings The Orchestra HCMC
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Classical music is undergoing a renaissance
PHOTOS BY RODNEY HUGHES
T
he HCMC Conservatory of Music is situated in a grand building on Nguyen Du, constantly filled with young students bustling about with instruments bigger than themselves and a contagious energy to learn. This vibrant building is home to the Saigon Philharmonic Orchestra (SPO), one of two professional orchestras in Ho Chi Minh City. The Saigon Philharmonic Orchestra has only been called by this name since 2013, but has existed since 2010. The orchestra is also relatively young in the age of its players; its 40 musicians consist of a mix of professional musicians, amateurs, students and teachers. There are frequent guest musicians who will come for a single programme, or stay for weeks or months at a time. The youngest player is 19 years old while the oldest is 65, and there is even a father and son playing violin side-by-side, two generations practicing together.
Synchronicity The SPO offers a learning space for many of the students at the HCMC Conservatory for them to develop in their classical training. Adrian Tan, music director at the Saigon Philharmonic, says: “To play in [the SPO] is very similar to driving in Saigon; you must maintain precise synchronicity with everyone around you while also being able to play your part.” The latest programme, Legacy, performed
on Jun. 24 at the HCMC Conservatory of Music, consisted of two distinct pieces; Ludwig van Beethoven’s Symphony No. 5 in C minor and Johannes Brahms' Piano Concerto No.1 in D minor. The Legacy programme featured Maestra Apo Hsu as the guest conductor from Taipei and the piano concerto was led by pianist Albert Tiu from the Philippines. “I’m feeling fortunate to be involved in the Brahms, as it’s not a piece you normally get to perform,” said Albert during the final rehearsal. “It’s very elaborate and a challenge to play, but rewarding for everyone.” Both pieces were majestic to hear played live, but the Beethoven Symphony No.5 is an unconscious classic. Maestra Apo used her conducting skills to lead the audience on a wild ride from the rolling crescendos followed by delicate melodies, through the continual build-up of a challenging but playful piece. “The orchestra was extremely responsive,” she says. “The room was filled with energy when they played, and the pieces were filled with such complexity and excitement.”
Reverberation When it was released, Beethoven’s Fifth was considered obscene with the amount of emotion it demonstrated, but it is so cleverly composed it has become a legend that people recognise immediately. At a performance such as this, it is easy to
sit back in awe as the cellos and bass reverberate in your chest and the melodies tickle your ears. The magic of watching a good conductor is observing their interaction with the orchestra, how effortless their command and the whole affair appears. With sharp fingers and controlled gesticulation, Maestra Apo guided the room on an auditory musical adventure. The power in a talented orchestra lies in the combined effort of every musician; they must not only know the piece and their individual role, but also be able to listen to each other and feel the energy. “Music should be essential to everyone,” says Adrian Tan. “Many people associate classical music with old European men because history has dwindled musicians down to the few greats. But that doesn’t mean it can only be performed or enjoyed by old European men, there is something we can all find from this music.” Classical music transcends language or spoken words — it resonates within you, makes the hairs on the back of your neck stand on end, manipulates your heartbeat with the crescendos and whispered phrases. The Saigon Philharmonic Orchestra may be young and ambitious, but it pays off in the beautiful symphonies they perform and the fantastic way they play together. — Siân Kavanagh For info on upcoming performances click on facebook.com/SaigonPhil
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Briefings HCMC
When It Comes To the Crunch A new hydroponic farm is challenging old ideas about vegetable production in Vietnam
“W
hat are these?” my mother asked me, pointing at two boxes of mixed salad I had just
brought home. After two episodes of food poisoning from shredded morning glory at the end of last year, she has become cautious with vegetables. After giving the salad a simple wash, she left it in the fridge for a few hours before making a home-style salad with rice vinegar, honey, fish sauce and beef. The whole family made the sound “wow” right after they had the salad in their mouths. Even my brother — not normally a big fan of vegetables, seemed to enjoy eating the salad. And for me, the freshness,
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crunchiness and aroma blended into each other creating the best salad I had ever had. The quality was still there the next day when I took the leftovers to my sister-in-law. The two boxes, a mixture of butterhead lettuce, arugula, red lollo rossa and other herbs that I had never seen before, were from GreeOx, a new hydroponic food producer in Ho Chi Minh City.
The Containers GreeOx has its farms in District 2, next to the popular hangout, Saigon Outcast. The two white containers stand out in the landscape, although unsurprisingly they don’t look much like a traditional vegetable farm. John Tran, the founder, gave me a tour
through the containers while passionately talking about his hydroponics project. It was cold in the first container where plants grew from holes on a big tube supplying water. A smaller tube carries nutrients to the plants. In place of natural sunlight. GreeOx uses LED grow-lights of a bright purple hue, which are effective and economical, John says. The second container was set up exactly the same but was less cold than the first, as the plants in here are from the tropics. The two containers are managed by a computer programme controlling water flow, temperature, humidity and other variables to ensure perfect growing conditions. It also means the farm doesn’t need a workforce. “We use hydroponics as it’s clean, especially
PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY
when harvesting,” says John. “We are now trying this out for carrots and potatoes.”
Making it a New Habit Since her bout of food poisoning, my mother has been thinking about setting up a vegetable farm in her garden. But she has hesitated over concerns about the quality of the soil, which has to be bought in, and may not be as clean and uncontaminated as vendors claim. According to John, he has had physical reactions to pesticides in soil-grown vegetables and is on medication after two years living and working in Vietnam. “Organic vegetables are not necessarily safe either,” he warns. John admits he loves the project and is ready to share the idea. “It’s not about the profit. I just want to create a new eating habit for Vietnamese people,” he says. GreeOx has cooperated with some international schools to help students understand hydroponics as well as general issues around food safety. The company also takes orders from those who would like to start their own hydroponic operations. — Vu Ha Kim Vy GreeOx’s main office is at 36/30 D2 Street, Binh Thanh, HCMC. Call 0902 917771 for more info or to place orders
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The Occidental Tourist
Briefings HCMC
As one clinic is discovering, dental tourism has arrived in Vietnam
D
o a search on Google for dental tourism in Bangkok and you’ll most likely come across this question on TripAdvisor: “Hi, I am in need of some major dental work which will include 28 crowns. Will cost me A$46,000 in Australia so looking at alternatives in Thailand. Has anyone got any recent stories to tell? Any recommendations?” The post gets 266 responses, with people suggesting anything from dental clinics in Bangkok through to centres in Phuket. The overall conclusion? When it comes to getting dental work done, heading to Thailand is the way forward. It’s cheaper and, as many people believe, better quality. Now it seems dental tourism is making its way to Vietnam. And it’s not just people from overseas who
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are taking advantage of high-quality dental work in this country, but expats as well.
The Price Factor Dr Tran Hung Lam is one such dentist who’s noticed the change. At the helm of Elite Dental, this Frenchtrained, PhD-qualified implant doctor specialises in the All-on-4 treatment, a Swiss-developed procedure for the total rehabilitation of patients without teeth or for patients with badly broken down teeth, decayed teeth or compromised teeth due to gum disease. Using a bridge supported by four implants, 10 to 14 teeth are placed onto the bridge within eight to 12 hours of surgery, a procedure often called “teeth in a day”. “The advantage of this concept is that we only use four implants,” explains Dr. Lam, who lectures in
All-on-4 and holds a Diplomate from the International Congress of Oral Implantologists (ICOI). “So it’s a costsaving solution and it avoids having to do a sinus graft or bone graft. The patient can wear this temporary bridge for two months and after that they will have a definitive bridge.” When it comes to cost, Vietnam has a distinct price advantage. With Korean implants Elite Dental charges US$7,500 for a package including the implants, the temporary bridge and the final bridge. For Swiss implants the cost rises to US$9,000; the healing time is shorter with the final bridge being ready in just four to six weeks. Compared with Australia the cost for the package is 50 percent lower, and even with Thailand it’s 30 percent less. “We’re starting to get patients in dental tourism,” explains Dr. Lam. “In 2016 alone, ten percent of our
PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN
customers are from Australia and New Zealand and we’ve had six or seven cases with customers from overseas using the All-On-4 concept. We also have two cases from France and patients from the US.”
Building Trust As with all such tourism — whether it be dental, health or anything else — a key element is trust. This is something that Dr. Lam is implicitly aware of, and without that TripAdvisor thread with 266 responses, and thousands of personal testimonials, it’s often difficult to get the customers from overseas. “For people who come to Vietnam or other countries to get dental work, they may feel vulnerable,” he explains. “So first we have to prove our experience, our qualifications — so for myself, where I’ve been trained,
what I’m doing exactly and what is my experience. And second, the equipment in the dental clinic. Third is testimonials from patients who’ve already had work done in our clinic.” As Dr. Lam is discovering, patient numbers from overseas are on the increase, as are the number of expats using their clinic — now, 15% of all patients are foreign. Much of this rise is through (literally) word of mouth. Having a good set of teeth can be life-changing; in many cases, people have been waiting for a solution to their dental troubles for years. Naturally this is something they want to share. Elite Dental has also had success through their presence on websites such as whatclinic.com and dentaldepartures.com. Good work generates good reviews, and good reviews generate customers.
One thing Dr. Lam is sure of is the expertise and professionalism of dentists living and working in Vietnam. “Most Vietnamese dentists graduate in Vietnam,” he says. “But after that, most of us are trained abroad — in the US and Europe. And we have experience because we do a lot of cases every day. I have some dentist friends living in France, and the number of cases they have doesn’t compare to the numbers we see in Vietnam.” Indeed, this year Dr. Lam has already performed 30 All-on-4 procedures for customers both living in Vietnam and overseas. He adds: “As they say, practice makes perfect.” For more info on Elite Dental click on elitedental.com.vn, call (08) 7306 3838 or email info@elitedental.com.vn. The clinic is at 57A Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC
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Sports Digest
Olympic-Sized Dreams A pre-Olympic athletics championship brings out Vietnam’s juniors. Words by Harry Hodge
O
n a rainy June weekend, a group of some Asia’s most elite teens were running laps around each other in a shot at following their dreams — all the way to the Olympics. Ho Chi Minh City hosted the Asian Junior Track and Field Championships this year for the second time, with many of the competing athletes representing their nation’s hopes for Olympic years other than this one; think more 2020 or 2024. For many, this may be the highest level they achieve, competing as 17 to 19-yearolds and representing their respective nations. While Vietnam is expected to send upwards of a dozen competitors in a variety of disciplines to Brazil this August, only two Vietnamese track athletes have qualified at the moment for Rio 2016 — race walker Nguyen Ngung and hurdler Nguyen Thi Huyen. So despite Vietnam fielding a team of 28 athletes at its home event, only a
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handful realistically have a shot at taking on the world’s best in future Olympics. Vietnamese National Team Leader Nguyen Duc Nguyen sees great potential in long jumper Nguyen Thi Truc Mai, a 19-year-old who leapt to gold here in Saigon with a 6.34-metre effort. With another four years to Tokyo, Duc sees the teen phenomenon being able to meet the qualifying standard of 6.70 metres to compete with the best on the planet. “(Track and field) needs more advertising and promotion to make it more attractive to youth,” Duc said, noting that soccer and sometimes tennis and basketball net far more coverage and, just as important, sponsorship deals. “We need TV to make the sport more popular.” When pointing at the sponsorship placards laid out around Thong Nhat Stadium with 700 athletes from 40 countries competing, Duc explained those were deals
in place for this event, not necessarily for the team throughout the rest of the year. Indeed, the only time track seems to make waves here is at the SEA Games, an event where Vietnam generally cleans up against regional competition and medallists get to enjoy a moment in the sun. For those that made it to District 10, there were dramatic finishes in numerous events, with athletes like sprinter Le Tu Chinh roaring down the track in the women’s 100 metres and Lo Thi Thanh in the women’s 1,500 metres, each of them narrowly missing the podium. A former long jumper himself, Duc acknowledged that Truc Mai could be the next great Olympic hope for this country. That said, for many, the dream of representing their nation has already been achieved, at the junior level. And from the emotion and pride visible at Thong Nhat last month, for many that may be enough.
Vien Splashes to Medal in Indianapolis Top Vietnamese swimmer Nguyen Thi Anh Vien won a bronze medal at the Arena Pro Swim Series in Indianapolis in the US last month, according to Vietnam News. Vien came in third in the women’s 200m individual medley, with a time of 2:15.55. Earlier, Vien ranked second of 71 swimmers in the qualifying round, to reach the final round. According to the International Swimming Federation, Vien’s best performance in this category is 2:12.33 which she set at the world championships last year. At the Southeast Asian (SEA) Games last year in Singapore, Vien won a gold medal and broke the Games’ record with a time of 2:13.53. In the women’s 100m freestyle, Vien ranked sixth, after clocking 56.16 seconds in the final.
Vietnamese Judoka Headed for Rio The International Judo Federation has announced the list of competitors for the 2016 Olympics, including Vietnam’s Van Ngoc Tu, the country’s 19th athlete to qualify for Rio de Janeiro, according to Thanh Nien. The 29-year-old from Soc Trang Province ranks eighth in Asia and 44th in the world in the women’s 48kg, and qualified because she has remained in the world’s top 50 for two years. The IJF selects 22 judokas to compete in the quadrennial event, including one from the host country, the world’s top 14 and seven others from five continents, including two from Asia. Eighteen other Vietnamese athletes have qualified in in badminton, rowing, swimming, shooting, fencing, track and field, wrestling, gymnastics, and weightlifting. PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY
National Team Claims AYA Bank Cup Vietnam scored three times after a goalless 90 minutes against Singapore to win the four-team 2016 AYA Bank Cup in Myanmar last month, according to Tuoi Tre. Both teams had scoring opportunities in normal time, but neither was able to convert. One minute into the first half of extra time, Vietnam’s star striker Le Cong Vinh converted a brilliant assist from Van Quyet. Eight minutes later, the duo struck again, with Quyet scoring this time after the ball hit a Singaporean defender following the first attempt by Vinh. Thanh Trung settled the match in the 114th minute, earning a first trophy for coach Nguyen Huu Thang, less than four months after he took charge of the team.
Minh, Trang Victorious on Home Soil Badminton players Nguyen Tien Minh and Vu Thi Trang brought gold medals home after winning in the finals of the Yonex Sunrise Vietnam International Challenge last month in Hanoi, according to Vietnam News. No 1 Minh defeated No 2 Tzu Wei Wang of Chinese Taipei 2220, 21-16 in the men’s singles match. s date p Trang, No. 2 seed, u d r Sen out you p or won 19-21, 21-19, 21ab g grou @ 13 over No. 7 Saena in ry Kawakami of Japan in sportnt to har .com the women’s singles m e ev vietna class. d
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MOVING?
Call Us
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ToDo list HCMC
Michelinstar chefs, clubs that are definitely still open, kids’ discos and stand-up comedy. July is definitely not a quiet month in Saigon
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July at the Observatory
Dan Bi Mong, one of the faces behind The Observatory
Dislocate is presently showing at Factory Contemporary Arts Centre
Work by Khoa Le as part of her exhibition, Happy Never After
Yoga gets intensive this month with Suzanne Vian
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Observatory, Q4 Throughout July Contrary to popular misinformation, the Observatory has not closed down — it’s Cargo Bar at number 7 that has gone under the hammer of the developer. Just to prove to you that they’re alive and kicking, this month the venue has a full programme of mainly local acts in store with lauded DJ Taku Hirayama taking centre-stage on Jul. 23. Here are some of the highlights: Friday, Jul. 8 Datodeo & Starchild Funk, disco, vintage house Friday, Jul. 15 Cheezy Gangztaz
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Trip-hop and hip-hop to funk, soul and more Saturday, Jul. 16 Asa Niwayama, NK Chan & Friends Giant electronic sounds from the boys from Bangkok Saturday, Jul. 30 EAOC Loft Party Tropically-soaked electronic sound bombs On most nights, entrance is free before 10pm and VND100,000 after, but check with the venue. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Dislocate Factory Arts Centre, Q2 Throughout July The recently opened Factory Contemporary Arts Centre in Thao
Dien will run its second exhibition throughout July, which will feature the work of Hoi An-based artist Bui Cong Khanh. Titled Dislocate, the wood of the jackfruit tree springs to life as a stunningly carved installation, its architectural beams, windows and objects referencing a myriad of social and cultural histories concerning Vietnam. Working with a team of senior expert wood carvers and carpenters from Hoi An, Khanh has created a complex set of narratives that pivot around this former port city that was once a major stopping point on the route from China to the rest of Southeast Asia. The central structure, likened to a house, is deliberately left incomplete; its roof and walls are not solid, possessing space between beams where wall panels are spread
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randomly throughout. Taking the traditional Imperial architectural techniques of Hue, the structure is surrounded by four artistically designed bonsai that act as spiritual guards to the project. The Factory is at 15 Nguyen U Di, Q2, HCMC and is online at factoryartscentre.com. The exhibition will run until Tuesday, Aug. 23
Happy Never After Craig Thomas Gallery, Q1 Until Jul. 20 Craig Thomas Gallery will be running the show Happy Never After, a solo exhibition of mixed media paintings by Saigon-based artist Khoa Le. Khoa Le is a talented young visual artist who also works
as an illustrator and an author of short stories and picture books for children. Her diverse skill set is on full display in the fantastical creations of the Happy Never After series. Khoa’s prodigious imagination and her impressive ability to work with various media combine to create works that are each fairy tale worlds in and of themselves. Craig Thomas Gallery is at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC. For info click on cthomasgallery.com
Intensive Yoga Course Riverside, Q2 Jul. 4 to Jul. 20 Suzanne Vian will be running an intensive, 15-day yoga course throughout early and mid-July.
As with all her classes, this daily course will include a blend of several styles of yoga, be well balanced, and led at a reasonable pace. You can expect some flow, some holding, pranayama and meditation at the beginning or end of a class. Students are encouraged to do what they can, and are given modifications (more advanced or more gentle variations) to be sure all levels of students benefit from each class. The classes run every morning from 7.30am to 9am and cost US$135 (US$9 or VND200,000 per class) or VND250,000 at the drop-in rate. Riverside is at 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, HCMC. For more info click on suzannevian. com/3weeksummerintensive
wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 35
ToDo list HCMC
RMIT will be holding a three-day fashion event in early July
FTWR will be putting on a two-hour disco at Kokois
Michelin-star chef Eric Maio will be at Le Corto in mid-July
Outcast Boho Market is anyone looking for something vintage, handmade or creative
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Fashion Colloquia RMIT, Q7 Jul. 5 to Jul. 7 RMIT Vietnam is running a threeday fashion event from Tuesday, Jul. 5 to Thursday, Jul. 7 called Producing Fashion: Made in Vietnam Fashion Colloquia. The event will gather together significant fashion businesses, entrepreneurs, artists, craftspeople and students to explore how fashion is produced and consumed, drawing attention to Vietnam’s entrepreneurship and manufacturing practices.
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Running daily from 9am to 12.30pm, day one will focus on Creativity, day two on Connecting with Industry, while day three will look at Growing the Future. RMIT Vietnam is at 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, HCMC. For info or to register, click on fashioncolloquia2016. eventbrite.com.au, email thuy.le@rmit. edu.vn or call 0975 666773
FTWR Kids! Kokois, Q2 Sunday, Jul. 10 FTWR, Kids! is a fun two-hour event that caters to children and parents
who like to have a good time. The aim is to get families together to shake their booties with the little ones in tow. Including a live DJ performance, international emcees, singing, balloon sculpture and a kiddy dance off, the idea is to bring the nightclub experience to the whole family in a family-friendly setting. To add to the fun there will also be face painting, an arts and crafts station and a photo both. Plus there will be a special kids’ menu on offer at Kokois. The event runs from 3pm to 5pm at Kokois, 24 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC. For info click on facebook.com/ftwrkids.
MAD HOUSE 2ND LOCATION IS NOW OPEN IN DISTRICT 7
3
MAD House D7 E V E R Y D AY
Eric Maio Le Corto, Q1 Jul. 11 to Jul. 17 Michelin-star chef, Eric Maio, will be serving up his own personal blend of French cuisine at Le Corto from Monday, Jul. 11 to Sunday, Jul. 17. Receiving his first Michelin
11 AM - 10 PM
No.2 street C,Tan Phu Ward, Dist 7 2nd floor at Capri by Fraser
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Entrance is VND250,000 for one adult and one child. Extra adults cost VND200,000 and tickets are available at Kokois or Maison Bato, 43 Nguyen Van Giai, Q1 (call before collection: 0968 937097)
FROM
star in 2005, the Sicilian-born chef has an arm’s length list of accolades to his name and has worked at The Palais in Biarritz, La Bonne Auberge in Antibes, The Savoy in Cannes, and the three-star rated Marc Veyrat in Annecy. Expect a special menu for the week and some quite phenomenal French cuisine to complement the excellent fare already served up at this downtown restaurant. Le Corto is at 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC. For more info click on facebook.com/lecorto
Outcast Boho Market Saigon Outcast, Q2 Sunday, Jul. 17 Looking for a gift for a belated birthday or just a vintage bag to match your outfit during the rainy season? Saigon Outcast is holding their first monthly boho market on Sunday, Jul. 17. There will be stalls full of colourful and well-crafted bits and pieces along with other unique, handmade, vintage and creative goods Doors are from 2pm to 8pm. Saigon Outcast is at 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC
08 5417 1234 Facebook.com/MADhouseD7
MAD House D2 E V E R Y D AY
FROM
08 AM - 10 PM
6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, Dist 2
08 3519 4009 Facebook.com/MADsaigon
ToDo list HCMC
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Taku Hirayama will be playing Obs on Jul. 23
Outcast will be holding a free range market on Jul. 24
Irish comic Aidan Killian returns to Game On Saigon on Jul. 29
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Taku Hirayama Observatory, Q4 Saturday, Jul. 23 A DJ of the highest-calibre, Taku is returning from extensive travel and play-time in Europe to bring us his refined, energizing, perpetuallyrolling take on house and techno. Support will come from Cora. Entrance is free before 10pm and VND100,000 after. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Outcast Free Range Market Saigon Outcast, Q2 Sunday, Jul. 24 Fresh and healthy products, delicious food, live music and kids activities — that’s what
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you will find at the Outcast Free Range Market at Saigon Outcast on Sunday, Jul. 24. Doors are from 12pm to 6pm. Saigon Outcast is at 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC
Aidan Killian Game On Saigon, Q1 Friday, Jul. 29 There is a reason why Irish comic, Aidan Killian, is returning to Saigon for the third time at the end of this month — the audience love him. And if you’ve seen this Irish gagster before, here’s the perfect opportunity for another sidesplittingly funny show as the man behind last year’s controversial
stand-up show at The Edinburgh Fringe, the Holy Trinity of Whistleblowers, returns to take on challenging subjects such as homophobia, transgender, rape, torture and genocide, “you know, all the funny stuff.” As ever, Aidan will have support from local comedians. There will also be a second big act coming in from overseas, who has yet to be confirmed. But we know from what the organisers tell us that they will be a good ‘un. Game On Saigon is at 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, HCMC. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance is VND200,000 and includes a glass of Pasteur Street IPA. For more info on Aidan Killian, click on aidankillian.com
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IN
Just HCMC
Indika is the latest café and restaurant to open up in Thao Dien
Spot the location. East West Brewing Co. will be opening this Autumn in downtown Ho Chi Minh City. At present they’re in construction mode
La Holista has opened a central kitchen which means an expansion of their product range
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It’s July, and it’s quiet in Saigon. But not that quiet…
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Indika Located in a complex off Nguyen Van Giai, Indika is a newly opened café and restaurant with a style and interior that combines the décor of Saigon Outcast and deciBel. The café and restaurant is divided into two sections including an indoor space and garden seating where there is a stage. Indika is in soft opening mode — which means the food menu is presently being developed — however ca phe sua da starts at VND40,000 and juices go for VND50,000. There is also a range of desserts and cakes available from VND30,000 for a scoop of ice-cream. Indika is at 43 Nguyen Van Giai, Q1, HCMC
East West Brewing Craft beer is revolutionizing beer drinking in Asia, and Vietnam is no exception. And this Autumn we’re set to get a new craft beer brewer entering the market — the East West Brewing Co. Using only the finest local ingredients, as well as importing the best hops from New Zealand, Australia and the US, East West’s
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beers will be produced without the use of any preservatives. With an American brewmaster on the team — Sean Thommen from Portland, Oregon — as well as a group of young, passionate professionals with a background in hospitality, East West are presently building their bar, restaurant and taproom which is located in the heart of District 1. Uniquely they will be brewing on-site with their imported stainless steel brewing system on display to the public. They will also be offering brewery tours and brewing classes to anyone who is interested in learning how to brew beer on their own. For more info watch this space or click on facebook.com/eastwestbrewery
La Holista Central Kitchen Chiara Squinzi, the nutritionist well known in Saigon for giving talks
and making her own nutritional products, is in expansion mode and has just opened a new, larger-size kitchen. The idea? To expand the number of products she has on offer to the general public. New products include organic quinoa salad, organic chia pudding, cashew cheese and peanut butter, as well as her existing well-known range of energy balls and nutritious snacks. Located in Hoa Tay Café (59 Nguyen Cu, Q2, HCMC) where all products are in stock, La Holista’s products can also be found at Organik Shop (8 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC), Aveda Herbal Spa (21 Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC), GreenS (18A/100 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, HCMC) and Maple Healthcare Clinic (MD6, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, HCMC). To see or order the full range of La Holista products, click on laholista. com/shop 3
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ToDo
listHanoi
Zenith Yoga has a whole range of activities going on over the next three months
Motifs and Nucache are teaming up for an eclectic night of tunes at CAMA ATK
The highest run in Vietnam returns to Landmark 72 on Saturday, Jul. 9
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Yoga, vertical runs, comedy, summer schools and Quest. There’s not all that much going on this July, but there’s enough to keep you busy
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Full of Activity Zenith Yoga Studio, Tay Ho Throughout July, August and September Zenith Yoga Studio is offering a range of activities over the summer and autumn, including a yoga teacher training course beginning in September with trainer Marzena. Later this month, there is a Kids’ Camp for children aged between seven and 10, featuring yoga, art, a cooking class, and a music class. The studio is offering a promotion where first-time yoga students get 50 percent off their monthly pass
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up to the end of August. Zenith Yoga Studio is at 247B Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For Further info click on zenithyogavietnam.com or call (04) 3266 8125
Motifation CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Jul. 8 Motifs and Nucache will team up for an eclectic mix of dub, reggae and hip-hop beats. Motifs (formerly Hope One) is a DJ/producer and a founding member of Dub Temple Records, whose influences are eclectic as he fuses esoteric worldly
sounds with forward-thinking bass. Motifs has supported a plethora of international acts including RSD, Tippa Irie, Addis Pablo & Suns of Man, Slugabed, Papa Ugee, Gaslamp Killer, Doshy and Caliph 8. Nucache’s music tastes heavily revolve around early soul, jazz, blues, funk, reggae, hiphop and disco that have been respectfully re-edited, remixed and reintroduced into modern-day productions. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA
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Hanoi Vertical Run Landmark 72, Tu Liem Saturday, Jul. 9 1,914 steps, 350m, 72 floors. That is the challenge entrants of the Hanoi Vertical Run will have to face on Saturday, Jul. 9 when they run up the stairs to the top of Vietnam’s tallest building, Landmark 72 in the Keangnam Hanoi Landmark Tower. This is not the first time this race has been held — the last outing was in September 2015 and was won by undisputed number one in the vertical
run circuit, Thomas Dold. The latest battle will include a starstudded cast that besides Dold will also see Mark Bourne, Omar Bekkali, Suzy Walsham, Melissa Moon and a host of local entrants vying for the fastest time up to the top. Registration is now closed, but spectators for what is a huge event are welcome to come along. The race starts at 3pm and finishes at 7pm on Saturday, Jul. 9. For info click on sportingrepublic.com/ hanoiverticalrun. To see the article on the Hanoi Vertical Run, turn to page 14
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ToDo
listHanoi
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Irish comic Aidan Killian is back for another night of laughter at ATK
Work Room Four’s summer school returns on Aug. 1
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CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Thursday, Jul. 28 There is a reason why Irish comic, Aidan Killian, is returning to Vietnam for the third time at the end of this month — the audience love him. And if you’ve seen this Irish gagster before, here’s the perfect opportunity for another side-splittingly funny show as the man behind last year’s controversial stand-up show at The Edinburgh Fringe, the Holy Trinity of Whistleblowers, returns to take on challenging subjects such as homophobia, transgender, rape, torture, and genocide, “you know, all the funny stuff.” As ever, Aidan will have support
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from the Hanoi Comedy Collective. He will also be appearing with a support act from overseas, who has yet to be confirmed. But we know from what the organisers tell us that it will be a good ‘un. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance is VND200,000 and includes a glass of Pasteur Street IPA. For more info on Aidan Killian, click on aidankillian.com
Meet the Mutants CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Saturday, Jul. 30 Live electronic musicians will perform later this month at Mutant Lounge, including artists who create a range of styles — from ambient to industrial,
minimal to hip-hop, space jazz to sampled funk. One of the Mutant’s main aims is to offer a stage to music that may not be heard elsewhere; to give space to performers who may not get opportunities in other venues. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA
Work Room Four Summer School Work Room Four, Tay Ho From Aug. 1 This August, Work Room Four will be running its Art Summer school for students aged eight to 16 for one week starting Aug. 1. Run by two UK art and design
PHOTO BY DAO TIEP / QUEST FESTIVAL
3 teachers in the penthouse studios, the programme is designed to promote skill development, selfenquiry and encourage creativity, through making activities using a variety of mediums and concepts. Students work hard, have fun and learn in a creative and collaborative work space. Work Room Four is at Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho, Hanoi. More details can be found at workroomfour.com
Back To the Quest Son Tinh Camp, Ba Vi Nov. 4 to Nov. 6 The Quest international music
festival returns to the Son Tinh camp outside Hanoi in early November. Featuring 150 artists over three days, Quest plans to bring the best local and international talent together for a celebration of music, arts and performance in a stunning natural setting. Quest has recently been rated as one of the top music festivals in Southeast Asia as well as one of the most scenic music festivals in the entire world, according to Amex. Expect live bands playing everything from heavy metal to hip-hop to Pink Floyd-inspired anthems. Quest also provides a platform for emerging artists and
true music and arts lovers, a place of individual expression. But when the sun goes down Quest really kicks off, when the headliners keep it banging all night long with massive tunes and amazing visual displays. Rounding out the festival experience, Quest features a full workshop programme, with yoga, craft, movement workshops, meditation, talks and more. For further information click on ticketbox.vn/quest-festival or facebook.com/questfestival. Son Tinh Camp is at Dong Mo, Ba Vi, Hanoi. For artist, workshop, artistic, food and media applications, visit questfestival.net/apply
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IN
Just Hanoi
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Dong Xanh Vegan Cafe and Meditation Studio A vegan cafe and meditation studio has recently opened on To Ngoc Van, offering a small menu of Vietnamese fare (from VND48,000) and fruit teas (VND38,000), and a selection of organic cosmetics and essential oils. The space is run by 27-year-old Nguyen Van Ha, who studied meditation under a Buddhist master and now wants to help others find their own inner peace. Every Saturday morning she runs a free meditation class on-site in Vietnamese from 8am to 10am, and also organises meditation retreats. The cafe shares its space with Caco Design, a clothing boutique selling women’s attire from VND200,000 to VND600,000 a piece. Dong Xanh Vegan Café is at 60 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi
PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
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L’Apero Grand Opening Tay Ho’s newest wine bar celebrated its grand opening last month. Open from 9am to 10pm on weekdays and until 11pm on weekends, the bar features a selection of imported wines from the likes of France, Italy, California and Australia, and also serves small bites. Bottles of wine range from VND230,000 to VND3million a go, with wine by the glass starting at VND50,000. L’Apero is at 109 Trinh Cong Son, Tay Ho, Hanoi
La Cod Chef Hai of Vietnam Masterchef fame has just opened a new seafood fusion restaurant in the old French Quarter of
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3 Hanoi. Mixing traditional Vietnamese cuisine with Japanese salads, French seafood stews and paella from Spain, the fare combines European cooking styles with condiments from Asia and locally sourced seafood. As part of the deal there is
an office set lunch available for VND150,000 and a family dinner set for VND350,000 per person. La Cod Seafood Restaurant is at 46 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Tel: 0981 353639
PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
1. Dong Xanh is a meditation studio, a clothing boutique and a vegan café all in one 2. L’Apero is the latest wine bar to open in West Lake 3. Seafood restaurant La Cod mixes Asian and European fare
Vegan Cafes, a hotel rebranding, a new late night bar and direct flights from Hanoi to Istanbul
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Au Lac Do Brazil III Nha Trang 101 Trinh Phong Str, Tan Lap Ward Tel: (058) 351 6661 - Hotline : 0916451669 pr_nhatrang@aulacdobrazil.com wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 47
IN
Just Hanoi
1. Turkish Airlines now flies to Hanoi 2. Poison is a new music venue and nightclub in the Old Quarter 3. Nancy Chandler’s Map of Hanoi goes digital 4. Danang get’s itself a fish and chip shop 5. At the end of this year the Sofitel Plaza will become the second Pan Pacific Hotel in Vietnam
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Turkish Airlines Opens Hanoi to Istanbul Flights Travellers in Vietnam can now fly direct to Istanbul from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, with the route to Hanoi opened on Jun. 27. With five direct flights a week operating between Hanoi and Istanbul, the carrier now flies to 115 destinations on five continents, the most destinations of any airline in the world. To book your flights click on turkishairlines.com
Poison The team behind Hair of the Dog have opened a new music venue and nightclub on Nguyen Huu Huan with a dark, underground
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vibe. Beer costs from VND50,000 while cocktails start at VND80,000. The crowd is a mix of locals, expats and backpackers, and the parties run from 7pm til late. Poison is at 52 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Nancy Chandler Does GPS Now available in iOS and Android, the Map of Hanoi by Nancy Chandler Graphics brings the paper map into the digital age. A GPS-enabled application based on the popular version we know so well, the app offers visitors and expatriates access to insider tips, local secrets, extensive listings and more with full text search for the first time.
4 It includes over 1,500 listings covering accommodation, major sights and lesser-known ones, suggested walking tours within the city centre and beyond. It also features shops and restaurants extending to vegetarian cafes and street-food recommendations, entertainment options from dance clubs and live music to characterful bars and pub-crawl suggestions, gyms and other sporting venues, plus tips on how to get around the city. To download the app, do a search on the relevant application store for Nancy Chandler Map of Hanoi
Danang’s Seaside Chippy With fish from the East Sea and potatoes from Dalat, Eastside
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Fish & Chips brings the feel and taste of a Western-style fish-and-chip shop to Danang, right down to the food being wrapped in paper and eaten with a wooden chip fork. Located a short walk from the East Beach, it features a simple counter-style display kitchen and a broad range of fish to go with the chipped Dalat potatoes. Meat lovers are also catered for with saveloy, chicken schnitzel burgers and beef pie. Food can be enjoyed as take-out, eat in or delivery and prices start at VND110,000 for basa and chips with the venue serving up everything you would find in a western chippy.
Except the seagulls. Eastside Fish & Chips is at 119 Nguyen Van Thoai, Danang. To see their menu click on eastsidefishandchips.com
Pan Pacific in Hanoi Pan Pacific Hotels Group (PPHG) will launch its Pan Pacific Hotels and Resorts brand in Vietnam in the fourth quarter of this year with the introduction of the Pan Pacific Hanoi in the capital city. This is a rebranding of the Sofitel Plaza at its prime location by West Lake. Featuring 273 guestrooms and 56 serviced suites, the hotel is located minutes away from
the historic Old Quarter and commands a picturesque view overlooking West Lake and the Red River. Its central location also offers convenient access to the business district. “We are very excited to be bringing the Pan Pacific brand to a city like Hanoi, where personalised service and attention to detail perfectly complement our brand positioning,” said Bernold Schroeder, chief executive officer, Pan Pacific Hotels Group. Pan Pacific Hanoi will be the PPHG’s second property in Vietnam after the Parkroyal Saigon. For more info click on panpacific.com
Insider
Many Faces: Pham Thi Hue / The Water Puppet Village / Where the Streets Have No Name / The Suburbs / Open-Mic Night / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Che Muoi Sau / Mystery Diner HCMC / Hu Tieu Nam Vang / Kiev / The Forgotten City / Destination Zero: Sofitel Luang Prabang / Notes From Another City: Delta Doings / The Motorbike Diaries Part 16 Photo by Julie Vola 50 | Word July 2016 | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 51
Insider
MANY FACES
NATIONAL
Pham Thi Hue Living with HIV also means living with a stigma. Pham Thi Hue has gone out of her way to change attitudes towards the 250,000 people who have been infected in Vietnam. Words by Eduardo Culbeaux
O
ne of the first women to speak out about the HIV/AIDS crisis when the social stigma was at its highest, Pham Thi Hue is a trailblazer for HIV/AIDS advocacy in Vietnam. Her story starts in 2001 when she learnt she was HIV-positive — it was a time when many still thought AIDS was an airborne disease. When she gave birth to her child she was immediately quarantined, and left to clean her own surgical wounds. Afterwards, her husband’s family kicked them all out of the house because she was HIV-positive. The pattern was repeated every time a new landlord learned about their infection. When Hue’s child was three months old, Hue and her husband contemplated a family suicide. The shame, isolation and shunning had just become too much. Her child’s sudden burst of tears woke her from that state of mind, and she developed the urge to fight for their survival. In 2004, her son made news because he was being discriminated against by his school — born though Caesarean section, he isn’t HIV-positive. Yet most schools would not admit him, and if they did they would not allow him to play with other children. Later in 2004 Hue was voted an Asian Hero by Time magazine’s Asia edition. Since 2007, Vietnamese laws have changed and now discrimination in hospitals and schools is illegal, although Hue assures me it still happens, just not as overtly. She still sees her work as far from being done. When I had an opportunity to speak with her, we didn’t dwell on the past. Instead she was very eager to tell me about what problems she still sees and what projects she has coming up.
Budgeting Crisis The Joint United Nations Programme on
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HIV/AIDS (UNAIDS) estimates that there are 250,000 people living with HIV in Vietnam. Vietnam became the first country in Asia to commit to the new HIV treatment targets. The goal by 2030 is that 90% of people living with HIV will know their status; 90% of people who know their status are on HIV treatment; and 90% of people on treatment will have undetectable levels of HIV in their body. The problem is, as Vietnam’s economy grows, external funding for many NGOs is being cut. “Many NGOs are ending their support for Vietnam in 2017 and 2018, so it raises a big question about what Vietnam will do in the future,” says Hue. “In many different provinces, the people that are taking care of HIV communication are panicked. They don’t know where to go, how to continue their activities, and how to raise the money for them to do different things.” Also, although Vietnam signed the UNAIDS target contract, the UN won’t provide additional funds. This is especially troubling if you live in a rural area. “In the countryside, discrimination is very high,” she explains. “It depends on the person who leads the area or the province. If they care about this programme then they educate people about it, but in some areas people don’t care about AIDS. They leave issues like discrimination alone, so it is much harder there than in the city.”
Being Proactive about Safety Vietnamese people’s knowledge about HIV/AIDS has come a long way in the past 15 years. But even when people are fully informed about transmission methods and dangers, according to Hue there still remains a disconnect between people knowing about HIV and applying those lessons to their personal life. “When we ask people, they know how
to be safe from HIV, by remembering to use a condom,” Hue says. “People hear about it and know about it, but they still don’t protect themselves.” Another issue around safety is childbirth, Hue says. “Many HIV-positive women want to have children,” she says. “If they knew that they can give birth without affecting the baby, they could prevent their baby from being born HIV-positive. But since each province has its own concerns, some HIV-positive women still have a baby without knowing they could have stopped [the transmission of HIV to the child].” She adds: “Vietnamese people need to be
active in protecting themselves, instead of waiting for people to go and educate them.”
The Future HIV-positive mothers giving birth has created a new problem, that of HIV-positive orphans, of whom there are a growing number. “Many HIV-positive kids are orphans because their parents passed away. They get brought up in an orphanage for HIV kids, and they are there until they are 18,” says Hue. “When they are adults the shelter gives them back to the community but they don’t teach them how to earn money or how to make friends. These 18-year-olds
come back to society and make big trouble. They don’t know how to act in a society that is not welcoming.” This is the issue that Hue is focusing on these days — her organisation, Hoa Phuong Do (Flamboyant Flower Group) is looking to help HIV-positive orphans. She is presently seeking new avenues of financial support as resources are starting to dwindle. Vietnamese news organization Thanh Nien recently reported that all major external funding for HIV will be cut off by 2017. A recent story also claims that 60 percent of HIV-positive people in Vietnam don’t have health insurance. This means
there is a high chance that they will give up on their anti-retroviral treatment when it becomes too expensive. Anti-retroviral treatment costs around VND3 million to VND24 million (US$136 to US$1,100) a year per person, and health insurance covers 80 percent to 95 percent of it. Pham Thi Hue’s organisation Hoa Phuong Do is taking part in a unique new programme this summer in Hai Phong: a Leadership, Sports and Mentoring Programme for LGBTQ Youth and Children Living with or Displaced by HIV/ AIDS. To find out more about the programme turn to page 16. And for more information on Hoa Phuong Do, email hhcsc.hp@gmail.com
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Insider
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INSIDER
NATIONAL
The Water Puppet Village Emily Petsko takes a trip to Dong Cac, the home of water puppetry. Photos by Julie Vola
O
ut on the water, three wooden puppets depicting the female character Thi Mau move in unison, gliding in front of the stage and flicking their wrists to unfurl pink hand fans. They seem to move effortlessly, as if controlled by some machine beneath the pond’s surface. The reality is more impressive. Behind the curtain, another kind of synchronised dance is in motion. Wading through thigh-deep water, a half-dozen men — two assigned to each puppet — gracefully weave around and sidestep each other, all the while pulling the strings and turning the knobs that give life to their creations. This hidden choreography takes months of practice, and that’s just the start of their lifelong dedication to the traditional art of water puppetry. The secrets of Vietnam’s “traditional water puppetry ward” — Dong Cac Commune in Thai Binh Province — were revealed recently to a group of expats and visitors who travelled there with the Friends of Vietnam Heritage organisation.
The rare visit by foreigners inspired hope among villagers that tourism could save their beloved ancient art from extinction.
An Age Old Story Dong Cac’s water puppet guild is one of 14 in Vietnam. Of the 21 members from Dong Cac, only five are under the age of 50. The youngest is 30 and the oldest is 84. “The youngsters do not pay much attention to water puppet arts and performances,” says Nguyen Van Thanh, chairman of the Dong Cac Water Puppet Association. The younger generation is busy chasing education and work opportunities, many of which lie outside the district. As the village’s craftsmen age, fewer people have the technical know-how to pass on tips of the water puppetry trade. “This is what we are very concerned about — how to maintain and preserve this art in the future,” Thanh says. He said they must find a way to earn local government’s support, in addition to financial aid from NGOs or other groups.
But they must also attract tourists and audiences for their shows. To date, no organised tours travel to Dong Cac, which is about a two-hour drive from Hanoi’s centre. Representatives from UNESCO’s World Heritage Centre came to the village to see a show four years ago, but the village never heard any feedback on whether it was eligible to become a world heritage site. For now, passion is enough to keep the craft alive. In addition to retirees, guild members work as farmers, carpenters and factory workers, among other professions. Any hours logged at the village’s puppetry shop are on their own time and dime. Craftsmen do not sell their finished products, save for a few puppets displayed at the ethnology and fine arts museums in Hanoi. Performances are seldom held outside the village, and those don’t exactly rake in the cash. So how can craftsmen earn money to sustain their art? “That’s a hard question that we are trying to solve,” Thanh says.
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Early Beginnings Ancestral tradition is another driving force that keeps the craftsmen chipping away at wood. Most craftsmen learnt the trade from their fathers, who learnt it from their fathers before them. The craftsmen, at least in Dong Cac, are exclusively men. In ancient times, women used to serve as puppetry performers because they had to voice the dialogue and songs for female characters. Now, everything is pre-recorded. Pham Dinh Viem, 67, started learning the craft when he was 14. He said at least four generations of his family have made water puppets. One of his most vivid childhood memories involves a puppet that is particularly tricky to control — an acrobat perched on a wooden swing who soars higher and higher until eventually doing a full loop-the-loop, to the applause of audiences. The string to manoeuvre the swing must be pulled with the right force at the right
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time for ultimate momentum — a feat harder than it looks. “(As a child), I was assigned to make the character, the one that swings upside down,” Viem says. “I was so nervous I couldn’t eat or sleep until the performance was successful, then I felt relief.” He says he wanted to preserve the art of his ancestors, adding, “It’s very important to me because it’s a tradition of my family.” Water puppetry can be traced back to the Red River Delta in 1121, as evidenced by a stone engraving from the Ly Dynasty. According to the book Indian Puppets by Sampa Ghosh and Utpal Kumar Banerjee, it was rice farmers who founded the art. “It is said that a thousand years ago, rains flooded rice fields of the Red River Delta around Hanoi,” reads a section of the book on Vietnam’s water puppetry. “The peasants could not work and spent time (carving) puppets from water-resistant sung (fig) trees: painting them, rigging them with strings and attaching them to long bamboo poles.
“The villagers entertained themselves while paying homage to local spirits and praying for a beautiful harvest. As techniques improved, they began to incorporate legends and myths. According to legends, the union of a dragon Lac Long Quan and a fairy Au Co gave birth to the Vietnamese people. Both appear prominently in water puppetry.” Some acts depict myths, but most highlight the everyday activities of Vietnamese farmers; fishing, duck herding, playing and working in the fields with buffaloes. The art of water puppetry was not widely known until after the 1960s, coinciding with efforts by the Government to promote the art form. After reunification in 1975, water puppetry expanded south. In 1994, the Dong Cac puppet troupe participated in its first national water puppet festival and took home three gold medals and three silver medals. They continue to win awards for their original performances and craftsmanship.
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Devil in the details Eight craftsmen crouch on the floor in a circle, whittling blocks of wood into faces and animals. A simple duck puppet can be churned out quickly, while other characters require more time and precision. The puppets are hollow inside and have a detachable back. An apparatus inside connects the puppet’s limbs to strings, allowing different parts to be moved and manipulated. The puppets are then attached to long poles, which function differently depending on the style of puppet. Some have levers to lift the arms and a dial to spin the puppet around. During the show, one humorous act features a character who catches a fish in his hands after several unsuccessful attempts. The big reveal at the end, when the character dives underwater and surfaces with his prize, is made possible by a pole fashioned with two puppets on each side — one with fish in hand, and one without. The performer merely has to flip the pole over. In total, the guild has 127 puppets in its inventory, and the puppets last about two years. Craftsmen try to create new characters
and new scripts to spice up the performances, which are held in the village during Tet, the Mid-Autumn Festival, harvesting season and other special occasions. While the craftsmanship is difficult in itself, it is another challenge entirely to master the subtle movements that convey humour, frustration and joy. “The most difficult part is to control the puppet with human emotion,” Viem says. “If you want to control it fluently and make the puppet have emotion, it takes three months of practice.”
Harking back to childhood Pham Ngoc Huyen, who grew up in Dong Cac but now lives in Hanoi, accompanied Friends of Vietnam Heritage on the trip to her home village. She recalled the happy — and not-so-happy — memories of watching water puppet shows as a child. “It’s very beautiful, but when I was three or four years old, my grandpa performed with the (character) Clown Teu, and I was scared because his face was very white and he had a big belly,” she says. “But now I think he’s cute and funny.”
For Huyen and every other Dong Cac native, water puppetry was an indispensable part of their childhoods. The timeless power of water puppetry is that it encapsulates the joy and memories cherished by countless generations of Vietnamese. This shared experience is what drives the passion of craftsmen. “Those memories are very beautiful and unforgettable,” said Ha Hai Duong, who lives in Hanoi. Although his father is from the village, Duong had never seen how water puppets were made or operated until he hosted a pair of curious magazine journalists. But some connections run deep, and water puppetry is one of them. The childhood magic Duong felt while watching water puppet performances has been transferred to his own son, who loves seeing shows during festivals and special occasions. With a little support and elbow grease, the village hopes this tradition can be passed down the line for many more generations to come. To arrange a visit to the village, please contact Ha Luong Thuan at hathuancwe@gmail.com
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Insider
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INSIDER
PHOTO ESSAY
Where the Streets Have No Name Vietnam’s urban expansion hasn’t always gone to plan and some areas, particularly on the outskirts of Hanoi, remain uncompleted and unoccupied. They’re not ghost towns, but they might as well be. Photos by Julie Vola. Words by Jesse Meadows
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bandoned places usually have history; but these townships or suburbs never got the chance. Built in the frenzy that was Hanoi’s urban expansion, they were made to impress investors and speculators, not your average citizen. But now, too expensive and
unnecessarily large, they sit empty on the outskirts of the city, buildings with no past. Our favourite urbanist Danielle Labbe has counted around 50 of these new forgotten towns. She shared a map of her findings with us, so we sent our photgrapher into the field for a bit of urban exploration.
Her first stop was Lideco. About 16km outside the city centre off the Highway 32 this new urban area has around 500 to 700 houses, but only 100 are occupied. At least one-third were never finished and some of the land inside the township is being used to grow vegetables.
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What Could Have Been Some residents, like university professor Ngoc Anh, seized the opportunity to buy a cheap house when the market crashed two years ago. He likes the peace and quiet, he says, and the fresh air. Others say it’s lonely, and sometimes a bit scary. If something bad happens, there’s no one around to hear it. Wandering the town is eerie. Some of the empty houses have become homes for chickens and ducks. The vegetation has taken over in a way that feels like the end of the world, but there are still isolated areas of human activity, and the occasional sound of a child's laughter. It’s enough to make you realise what could have been and what might still be — a bustling suburb with markets, schools, medical clinics and people on the edge of the city. Yet like other urban areas we visited such as Van Canh in Hoai Duc and Bao Son Paradise on the edge of My Dinh, Lideco is unlikely to have much of a future. Without residents it will wither and die. It’s possible this path may change. But whether one day the unoccupied houses will be occupied, and the unfinished structures finished, is yet to be seen.
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Cover Story
The Suburbs
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ou’re wealthy, you live in Vietnam and you’ve got money to invest. So what do you do with it? With so many restrictions on taking money out of this country, your options are limited; gold, the stock market, business (the popular option these days is F&B) and real estate. While the expansion of the new suburbs is focused on creating new housing for a modern Vietnam and on relieving the pressures of high urban population density, there’s another motive at work — investing in real estate. Yet building new suburbs and moving people from houses into apartments has other connotations; it affects and changes lifestyle. Despite being controlled by different regimes, in
Saigon and Hanoi in the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, apartment blocks were built to replicate the traditional living areas of Vietnam’s villages and cities. Whether the underlying ethos was socialist or capitalist, there was a focus on community; all the blocks had communal areas or public spaces, and internal passages that doubled up as alleyways. The high-rise suburbs of today often miss this. A corridor is a corridor, it’s not a place to communicate or meet others. While there are definite exceptions, public spaces and in particular green spaces are at a minimum. Yet this doesn’t mean they should be dismissed. Take a two-hour flight to Singapore and you can see how this city-state has put the high-rise model to good use. Over 5
million people crammed into an island the same size as Phu Quoc, and yet there is still greenery, still space to breathe, and an affluent lifestyle that has become the envy of the rest of Asia. Will Vietnam be able to boast the same success? We don’t know. At the moment developers are obsessed with tapping into the middle class — unlike in Singapore, little focus is placed on the lower end. What we do know is that suburban living and Babel-like tower blocks are here to stay, with not a white picket fence in sight. The suburbs. We welcome you, not with open arms, but with a knowledge that this is 21st-century Vietnam and that like you or not, you are here to stay. Photos by Julie Vola, Jesse Meadows, Bao Zoan and Rodney Hughes
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Khu Do Thi Moi
Building new suburbs means replacing one set of residents with another. The former, socially engineered for the modern era, the latter, displaced. Words by Jesse Meadows
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anoi and Ho Chi Minh City's skylines are full of cranes. The farther you drive into the cities' peripheries, the more you’ll see, arcing across half-built towers in the distance. With a dense inner city in both metropolises and a fierce drive to modernise, Vietnam’s major cities have fanned the flames of rapid urban expansion. So rapid, in fact, that while researching this article in Hanoi's My Dinh area, real estate agents tried to sell me a condo for VND60 billion on the sidewalk. The only catch — it wasn’t even built yet. “2017!” they said excitedly, pointing across the road at yet another crane that was swinging away over scaffolding. Called khu do thi moi, or new urban areas, these self-contained (sometimes gated) communities are already common in the West. Complete with services like schools and shopping malls, they’ve begun to spread like wildfire across Asia in recent decades. “New urban areas are trying to engineer the modern Vietnamese man and woman,
who go to the supermarket to get their groceries, work in the city, have two kids like in the happy propaganda posters, and live in a self-contained unit,” says urbanist Danielle Labbe. She’s been studying Hanoi’s urban expansion since 2005 (when the number of new urban areas had already reached 137), and did a PhD on the subject. Now she trains the next generation of Vietnam’s city planners to study its growth and is well placed to explain how and why Hanoi’s new urban areas have exploded across the map.
Complete Neighbourhoods
In the early 1990s, the government allowed several state-owned construction companies to repurpose agricultural land on the outskirts of the city for residential development. Experts agreed that Vietnam’s traditional urban design — tiny alleys winding through high-density superblocks — were not an ideal image for a country that wanted a seat at the international table. They needed new, modern cities to fit their goals
for growth. Thus, the khu do thi moi were born. The government required that the new urban areas be at least 60% high-rise buildings, and that the construction be synchronised. “The housing comes at the same time as the services, supermarkets, schools, clinics, kindergartens. Everything is built at once, so they’re complete [neighbourhoods],” says Danielle. They were careful only to build on unoccupied land; villages watched as highrises went up in their rice paddies. Have a look on Google Earth and you’ll see the striking divide. Chaotic clusters of red and green roofs tightly hug the periphery of these new developments, which are starkly geometric and carefully planned in contrast. Trung Hoa-Nhan Chinh to the southwest of Hanoi is one example of this. The new development is separated from the old village by Nguyen Thi Dinh Street. One side is all numbered towers, ornate villas, and Korean restaurants, while the other is tea shops and four-story cement houses. Built by Vinaconex and finished in 2005,
Trung Hoa was the first fully commercial project in the capital. Ultimately, though, it’s poorly integrated into the surrounding villages and lacking in public spaces, as most of them were sold off to developers in favour of more units and more profit (VND714 million). Starting at US$32,000 for 100sqm, the price of Trung Hoa’s units spiked tenfold in just five years. Now, they are completely out of reach for most of Hanoi’s residents.
Integration
When I asked Danielle if there were any new urban areas she would consider a success, she pointed to Linh Dam, one of the first modern suburban developments in Hanoi. Construction began in 1999, and unlike Trung Hoa, the area was built the way it was designed, with ample green space. In the beginning, though, it was difficult to convince people to move in. “They weren’t interested in living in high rises,” she says. “They were quite afraid that the elevator would break down, that you’d have to walk up 40 floors, that you’d have issues getting water, and power cuts. This was
the everyday situation in Hanoi at the time.” But the units were cheap, and soon, civil servants, teachers, nurses, and other members of the middle class began to move in. Today, around 7,800 people live in Linh Dam. The influx of middle-class suburbia caused locals who had been living off the land for generations to look for new ways to adapt. In most cases, the government compensated each household with a stipend for revoking their land-use rights, and many used this money to build small lodging houses adjacent to their own, where students and low-income residents could stay for anywhere from VND700,000 to VND2 million per month. Those who were lucky enough to have a house that directly faced the new developments found success with tea stalls and noodle shops. A handful of security and cleaning jobs were created within the gates of the new communities, but many locals found these jobs demeaning or boring. Street vending inside the communities is not allowed, but Danielle found one man who managed to tweak his business model to survive these changes. Instead of selling
on the street, he calls his clients up on the phone and delivers to their apartments. “It’s the same job, but in a different world,” she remarks.
On Hold
With the current count of new urban areas hovering around 252, many are now sitting empty, built for investors in the fever of expansion, but in reality, too big or too expensive for the people who need housing the most. The market grew so big that it inevitably crashed, and experts now agree that the lack of affordable housing in the city is a huge problem. The Prime Minister has since ordered banks to stop granting loans for real estate projects. “Now the whole cycle has stopped, which is a good thing, because it gives everyone some time to sit back, assess the situation and try to reorient policies,” Danielle says. “The air, the cleanliness, the green — it’s sought after, and it’s understandable.” But something more has to be done to make this middle-class dream sustainable.
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New Suburbs, New Civi satiо New suburbs mean a new lifestyle and a new more modern middle class. Or do they? Words by Edward Dalton
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ietnam is growing up — literally. Luxury tower blocks are shooting up in the suburbs all around the big cities. Gated communities and privately managed complexes which combine commercial and residential zones are becoming increasingly popular, as the rapidly expanding affluent and middle classes of Vietnam seek to improve their quality of life. As private developers and planning officials seek to socially engineer a new class of citizens, who are the people coming out on top? Something always has to give way for progress, but what are the feelings of those people who don’t reap the benefits? I set out with my notepad and a list of roughly scrawled questions to try and answer these queries, in order to construct a clear image of what life is like both for the people who are fortunate enough to live in these new suburban developments, but also for the people on the other side of the coin who have been affected in other ways.
Swings and Roundabouts
My first visit was to Ciputra, one of the bestknown gated communities of Hanoi. Sitting just outside the main gates and sheltering under an umbrella from the 38°C sunshine I found Hong, a drinks vendor who described herself as simply a “poor old woman”. When asked to share her opinion of the wealthy residents beyond the walls, she laughed and said “I don’t know, they’re rich, so they would never come to my shop.” Whether out of modesty or experience, Hong found the idea of Ciputra’s residents intermingling with the likes of ‘a poor old
woman’ selling cigarettes and tea utterly inconceivable. Her attitude towards this worryingly widening social chasm was that there exists ‘us and them’ and never the twain shall meet. Hardly surprising, considering the cheapest monthly rent for an apartment in Ciputra is more than four times the average monthly salary of a Vietnamese worker. As a black Rolls-Royce Phantom rolled past and drew my attention towards the entrance, I thanked Hong for her time and approached one of the security guards who had just greeted the privileged motorist as he entered. After a brief introduction, I learned his name was Huy and he had been working at Ciputra for more than a year. He concurred with Hong’s assertion that the residents were all rich, and theorised many of them were officials, business leaders and foreigners. However, he explained how Ciputra can even benefit those not lucky enough to afford the high cost of living within its walls. Huy moved his family to the area shortly after Ciputra had opened, believing that good jobs would become available for nearby locals. He estimates around 1,000 Vietnamese work within the walls of Ciputra in jobs such as security, cleaning and maintenance. Huy also sees other benefits for the surrounding community apart from the creation of jobs. He said: “Ciputra is beautiful, clean, it’s good for the community because it shows proper progress.” He sees no problem with the large gap between the rich and poor, shrugging as he tells me “small money gets a small house, big money gets a big house — that’s life”.
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Silver Spoons
“It’s safe, you need a card to enter, and we have 24-hour security guards.”
On the other side of the walls, life is decidedly different. Operated by Vingroup, the colossal Times City suburban complex sits on the southernmost edge of Hai Ba Trung District in Hanoi. I caught up with Oanh Dang, one of the earliest homebuyers in Times City, to get a glimpse into what life is like for those lucky enough to live inside one of Hanoi’s exclusive suburban developments. “In the beginning, it was quite empty,” Oanh tells me, “so the apartments were quite a good price.” Happy to self-identify as middle class, Oanh and her husband own a handful of successful restaurants, a car and employ a live-in nanny/maid. While it would be uninformed to assume what constitutes a good price for a successful middle-class married couple is within reach of the average Vietnamese worker, there is definitely an air of humility about Oanh. Many of her reasons for living here are both selfless and forward looking, likely motivated by the arrival of her first child six months ago. “It’s safe, you need a card to enter,” she tells me, “and we have 24-hour security guards.” Apart from the safety of her young family, Oanh was bowled over by the facilities available within the development. There’s a shopping mall, swimming pool, playground, gym, food court, spa and cinema to name just some of the on-site conveniences. Oanh admits that out of everything, the supermarket is the only one she finds frequently useful. “Although if people only used the facilities inside Times City, life would be too boring,” she says. She is equally grateful for the quieter and cleaner atmosphere, and its proximity to key access roads for central Hanoi and beyond. Oanh said that living in Times City has made her feel more confident and proud, although she admits that “more should be done to provide affordable housing for more people”. Unfortunately, luxury suburban developments are a far more lucrative investment to developers than affordable housing for Hanoi’s working class, so people like Oanh and her family will likely remain some of the few lucky people in an increasingly lucky generation for quite some time to come.
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The ‘Burbs Above Life in a high-rise is different to life in a house. Siân Kavanagh talks to those who’ve vacated two or three-storey living for apartments up on high
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o matter where you drive in Hanoi or Saigon, if you look upon the horizon there are ghost towns looming and waiting to be filled with residents. High-rise apartments have taken over the skyline like bamboo shoots. In a country where the norm has been hems or ngos filled with traditional
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old houses and blood relatives, with the front rooms open wide, the new apartments of Vietnam’s two major cities have created a new style of community and culture. Traditionally when we talk about suburbia we picture the American twostorey houses with picket fences and
a garage, where the easiest transport option is to drive, and the city is at least half an hour away. This is far from the suburban reality of contemporary Saigon and Hanoi. The people who responded for this article are all young professionals who needed cheap rent and enough space to relax.
Martha, Sophia and Linus Khanh Hoi 1, Q4, HCMC
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istrict 4 is only a two-minute drive away from Saigon city centre, but once you cross Khanh Hoi Bridge, there is a change in the atmosphere and environment. The building consists of two towers and has a shop, gym, spa, kindergarten and small restaurants and cafés that are primarily used by the residents. Martha, Sophia and Linus have all lived in their apartment for different periods of time; four-and-a-half years, two months and nine months respectively. Their space contains an attic and has a sizable balcony with a view of the river below. “It’s a very easy location to live in, we can get almost anywhere in 10 minutes,” says Martha, a part-time teacher from Australia. “Even though District 4 had a bad reputation in the past, I’ve always felt safe living in an apartment because we have 24-hour security.” Higher security and easy access are two of the most important reasons given by the three residents as the benefits of living in an apartment as opposed to a house. The apartment’s attic has been used as a storage unit for the mismatched belongings of residents from years past, filled with abandoned suitcases, backpacks, books and furniture. “I lived alone in a one-bedroom apartment for my first six months of being in Saigon, and I got sick of it. I like seeing other people at home when I come back from work,” says Sophia. “My flatmates come from different cultures and have had their own share of experiences in Saigon, so it’s good to catch up and talk about them.” This diversity among the flatmates means that there is a good balance in the house between the two women and one man, with Sophia from India, Martha from Australia and Linus from Sweden.
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Minh-Ha, Uyen and Billy DPN Tower, Binh Thanh
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wo years ago the thoroughfare upon which DPN Tower now stands was just a dirt road, surrounded by more dirt and a branch of the Saigon River. Today this part of Binh Thanh District has exploded into suburbs, typically more popular with local Saigonese than the expat community. The neighbourhood is extremely quiet compared to some of the more central districts, and the views contain gorgeous greenery and cityscapes. All three of the DPN roommates work in the fashion industry, and the space is decorated accordingly; very minimalist and with an interesting selection of furnishing and artworks. The three-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment is home to Minh-Ha, Uyen and Billy who met and organised their living arrangements through Facebook groups. The building has a Citimart on the ground floor, which has proved convenient for all the flatmates, and there is tenant access to the roof. The roof space not only offers a fantastic view of the city, but also a good place for the building tenants such as Uyen to stretch their legs and get in a portion of their 10,000 fitness steps per day. Uyen and Billy are both from Saigon themselves and have lived in the apartment for under two years, whereas Minh-Ha is from Germany and has only been in Binh Thanh for two months. “We have a different concept of suburbs in Berlin,” says Minh-Ha. “There’s more greenery and you have to travel further to the centre, but there’s no denying that we live in a suburb of Saigon here. “There aren’t many Western restaurants in Binh Thanh, but there are a lot of street kitchens with cheap, local food. You rarely see expats or tourists in this neighbourhood, but we’re still close to downtown.”
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Ebba, Chris and Sophia HAGL Riverview, Q2
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he first thing you notice walking into Ebba, Chris and Sophia’s apartment in HAGL Riverside is that they obviously have a very cool landlord; their living room wall is adorned in painted murals that they have been working on together since their housewarming party in April. The trio has only been in the apartment two months and is already planning to convert their four-bedroom, fourbathroom space into three bedrooms and three bathrooms, all with their landlord’s permission. “I lived in another HAGL apartment before we moved in here,” says Sophia. “And the similar floor plans always mess with my mind. It will be nice to create new space that is our own.” The HAGL buildings offer many amenities; from little convenience stores, a swimming pool, tennis court, table tennis, a restaurant and a bakery, there are many options just below their feet, but all three flatmates agree that it is important to get out of the bubble and still explore the city around them. The roommates have started the tradition of enjoying the sunset and a drink from the balcony and using their communal space to spend time together. Ebba explains: “From living in a house to living in an apartment, I feel like the communication channels are much more open. You feel closer to the people you live with — it is easier and more natural to spend time together.” Chris, who is originally from Hanoi, has only lived in Saigon four months and is happy to live slightly removed from the craziness of downtown. “It can feel very overwhelming to be surrounded by those crowds every day,” he says. “Up here it is a lot more peaceful, not much but it is our own space.”
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Gated Communities Jesse Meadows visits that most mysterious of suburban phenomena; the gated compound. Photos by Julie Vola
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Little boxes on the hillside Little boxes all the same There’s a green one and a pink one And a blue one and a yellow one And they’re all made out of ticky-tacky And they all look just the same
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his song runs through my mind every time I look at these photos. When folk singer Malvina Reynolds wrote it in 1962, she was commenting on the rise of suburbia and middle-class America that she saw through the car window on a road trip through Southern California. And now, over 50 years later on the other side of the world, it’s relevant again in Southeast Asia. As someone who grew up in these
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kinds of developments in the West, stepping foot in one here is a kind of reverse culture shock. It’s familiar to me, but not here. It seems out of place in the beautifully-organised chaos I’ve come to know as Hanoi. Where are the banh mi carts, and the bricks etched with history, and the alleyways like mazes? These streets are wide, and these houses all look just the same. Perhaps we’ve tripped and fallen into an alternate reality.
A tilt-shift lens visually recreates this sensation. It allows the photographer to physically shift the lens across the static camera body, changing the focus and perspective in uncanny ways. The result is a dreamlike scene that shifts the fabric of reality, houses stretching awkwardly away, blurriness creeping in unevenly across the images. Here’s a look through the white picket fence, at the little boxes of your fever dreams.
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The Suburban Green
While Saigon’s centre is in need of green spaces, do the suburban parks offer some respite? Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 89
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remember one day when I was in a large park in Montmartre, Paris, I noticed people sitting on the grass having picnics, reading books, sunbathing, having a walk or sitting on benches. However, you never see this in Saigon’s parks, where even these unremarkable activities are largely forbidden. Want to walk on the grass? Forget it, it’s not allowed. No surprise then that I am not fond of going to the park in Ho Chi Minh City. What you might be able to see at parks here are groups of old people doing tai chi in the early mornings or at dusk, and groups of young people hanging around drinking ca phe sua da during the day. While parks in the city centre like Tao Dan Park, 30/4 or 23/9 get some custom, as do some suburban parks like Le Van Tam, Le Thi Rieng or Gia Dinh, many spaces in other suburbs like Thu Duc, Cu Chi or Binh Tan appear to be virtually abandoned, which is odd. The fact is that public spaces play a vital role in the social and economic life of communities. They have therapeutic benefits by acting as a place to relax and get away
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from the hustle of the big city. They also double up as places where children and young people can meet and play or simply hang out. They can be used as places to hold activities — anything from concerts to sports — and with their greenery they can counteract the carbon dioxide emitted by the daily activity of the big city. Yet in Saigon, public spaces, except for those within highrise complexes themselves, have largely not been incorporated into the construction of the suburbs. Where they have, there is often no shade and the location is terrible — fancy hanging out next to a highway or under a bridge, anyone? Meaning that daytime uses of this city’s public spaces is at a minimum.
The Statistics
Saigon is a big city; officially its population reached 8.2 million people in 2015 (up from 7.5 million people in 2011) while the land area is 2,095.6 sqkm. It’s not a very green city either. On Google Maps, the city appears as a grey mass with some small green spots scattered around. The further away from the centre you look, the more green patches appear. According to the Natural Resources
and Environment Department of Ho Chi Minh City, these small green areas took up 190.1 sqkm in 2011. Although conventional wisdom has it that the centre of the city is less green than the suburbs, this is not always the case. According to statistics compiled by the Natural Resources & Environment Department and the Statistical Office of Ho Chi Minh City in 2011, while District 3, Go Vap and District 4 have the least amount of public space per resident — in District 4 it’s 147,606 people per square kilometer of public space — District 1 is quite well served when it comes to greenery. Here there are 49,003 people per square kilometer of public space. Only in the outer districts such as Binh Chanh, District 2 and District 9 does this figure go down substantially — in all three areas there are around 16,000 to 18,000 people per kilometer of public space.
The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
The location and design of public space determines the amount of visitors to a park. Since the Ethnological History and Culture Park in District 9 opened its doors in 2009
for the first King Hungs’ festival, this park, which cost hundreds of billions of dong, was expected to help reduce the overload of visitors to Suoi Tien and the parks in the centre. However, when I paid a visit, I couldn’t see any visitors but myself plus a few workers and security guards. This was despite it being a Saturday. “I’ve never heard of it,” says Kim, a friend who lives in nearby Thu Duc. She admits if she had to choose a park to hang out in, 30/4 Park would be her first choice. A small green space located near Notre Dame Cathedral and divided in two by Le Duan, along with people who come to the park for exercise, there are a lot of young people hanging out, sitting in the shade, singing and drinking cafe sua da, although the park has only a handful of benches. What it does have, though, are concrete ridges cutting off the grass from the pavement. These are high enough to act as makeshift stools. Uniquely it also has shade. Trang, who lives in District 2 admits: “I don’t go to the park under Saigon Bridge. There is no shade during the day and at night there are a lot of prostitutes.” She prefers paying a little bit of money to find
herself a cozy and relaxed coffee shop somewhere in District 2. Like many Vietnamese people, Thao goes to Gia Dinh Park for morning walks. “I go there because it’s close to my house, but it’s also packed at night with people on bikes who hang out with friends enjoying food and drinks from street vendors,” says Thao. While Gia Dinh is considered an urban lung of Ho Chi Minh City, Hoang Van Thu hosts scouting activities for children aged seven to 12. Parents from other districts bring their children to this public space every Sunday morning to learn basic survival skills.
The Abandoned Projects
There is a reason for the Ethnological History and Culture Park failing to attract many visitors — location is one but more importantly it is still under construction. The project was started in 2001, with the temple to the Hung Kings completed in 2009. Beyond this there is little in the way of activities — no food and drink, no cafes, nowhere to sit and enjoy the greenery. According to the park website, the space is scheduled for completion in 2030. As this site covers 400ha,
there is a concrete path for people who want to ride round the area on bikes. All you need to do is prepare some food and drink if you are planning a longer stay. Saigon has had several well-invested and designed public space projects in the suburbs, yet most of them are in need of care. The Cultural Park in Go Vap, Ly Chieu Hoang in Binh Tan, and the US$500 million Saigon Safari in Cu Chi have been abandoned for over 10 years. According to Tuoi Tre News, the three green park projects haven’t yet done the paperwork to get clearance to start construction. Meanwhile, the areas have started degrading, with wild grass, rubbish and even buffalos taking up residence. There are also signs of misuse of public spaces, with the parks being divided up as space for rent for businesses. Whether downtown or in the suburbs, like any city Saigon needs public spaces, public spaces that work. But until those responsible for the planning get the ingredients right, what they do create will go largely unused (at least during the day) or become abandoned. Not ideal for anyone needing a break from the relentlessness of this growing city.
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“For your average person on a Friday night, an empty stadium and a bus station aren’t going to make the cut — surely there must be more to do in this seemingly wild-west dustbowl beyond ‘the High Road’”
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Exploring My Dinh Beyond a suburban lifestyle, what does Hanoi’s best known suburb have to offer the uninitiated? Billy Gray goes on a tour of Hanoi West. Photos by Jesse Meadows
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ar from the tourist area of Hoan Kiem or the easy-going breeze of West Lake, My Dinh is the thumping heart of Hanoi’s west and one of the city’s fastest developing communes. A concrete jungle of high-rise apartment buildings, multi-lane roads choked with traffic and construction sites on every corner, you could be forgiven if your initial impression was to get out as fast as you came in. But under the dirt settling from the bulldozers is buried the promise of a brighter future. My Dinh is Hanoi’s answer to the country’s rapidly booming middle class. It might not be the most aesthetically pleasing area in the city, but there are hidden gems in a ‘looking at the skyline through the undergrowth’ sort of way. Most people know the area for its bus station and imposing stadium, both of which are worthy of note — the bus station will take you to pretty much anywhere within a 150km radius of Hanoi for pennies, and the 40,000seat modern stadium hosts a number of highprofile sporting events including, last year, a friendly match between the Vietnamese national football team and Manchester City.
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But for your average person on a Friday night, an empty stadium and a bus station aren’t going to make the cut — surely there must be more to do in this seemingly wildwest dustbowl beyond ‘the High Road’. Someone mentioned they have a wild karaoke scene out that way.
A False Start
My photographer and I pull up on our bikes ready to take on the rush-hour traffic. We meet at the Lotte Tower on Dao Tan and devise a route to avoid the evening rush before heading west. I quickly realise that I don’t really know much about the area save for The Garden shopping centre and the Korean influence surrounding it. I also remember having once been to a bia hoi in My Dinh. I got lost. “There’s a couple of places down this way,” I say, attempting to sound convincing. The only landmark I can think of is Landmark 72, so that’s the way we head. After a quick navigation via Google maps we make our way into My Dinh proper, ending up outside an open-air café on Nguyen Hoang called Corner Bar. The staff
are putting up a big projection screen to show the football; every time they put it up, the wind blows it over, and they put it up again. We sit down and get a plate of chips, discuss Donald Trump, and ponder where would be the best places to check out in town as the sun creeps below the concrete horizon. With daylight no longer on our side we decide to call it quits. It hardly feels worth the trip. This place doesn’t seem to have much going for it, so I decide to head back another day, this time armed with some advice from a friend who knows the area.
Round II
That advice was to visit a particular cha ca restaurant and my friend promised to meet us later to show us some good spots to party. We pull up outside Cha Ca Ngon on Nguyen Co Thach. The restaurant overlooks a busy road and some apartment buildings, not the countryside setting I’m partial to, but we decide to give it a go all the same. Walking inside we are ushered to a table in a cosy room with fancy tables standing on a slate floor; colourful artwork hangs from the walls.
Our cha ca arrives — one of the best I’ve had in Hanoi. The waitress eagerly puts together her best broken English to ask if we need anything else. My housemate — a seasoned veteran of late-night Vietnamese conversations at xoi vendors uses his best Vietnamese to order a selection of side dishes. A routine mistake; the amount of food is enough to feed a small army and we leave feeling conquered by it.
Beyond the Cover
Turning through the pages of My Dinh, we gradually uncover the story of a commune ready to make its mark on the map. Cafes line the road in front of the stadium, and beer houses and karaoke joints are littered between car showrooms and furniture warehouses. I decide that having spent a couple of afternoons passing through the area, the best way I am going to get a feel for the place is to get a group together and come back in the evening to hit some of the more lively spots. The first place on the list is a Czech beer restaurant called GoldMalt (2 Le Duc Tho, Tu Liem, Hanoi). The restaurant prides itself
on being the only place in town to serve malt beer from the Czech Republic. The beer goes down a treat, especially alongside a German sausage off the menu, and to add spice to the mix, it’s brewed locally — meaning literally in the restaurant itself. We ask if we can have a tour of where the beer is made, but unfortunately the brewers aren’t there that day. GoldMalt brews three different malt beers on site, and when we are ready to leave, they hand us all free membership cards giving us a 10 percent discount in all of their establishments; it’s certainly somewhere worth checking out for a cold beer in a friendly atmosphere. With a little Dutch courage we end our night at Karaoke A99 (28 Le Duc Tho, Tu Liem, Hanoi). We are led to a bright neon-lit room looking like a cross over between Alice in Wonderland and 2001: A Space Odyssey. Flicking through the list of available songs I try and find an English song that I recognise, and coming up short of options, I opt for Hey Jude by The Beatles. Our local friends sing their hearts out to some Vietnamese classics and we follow them
up with the Spice Girls. Like many a karaoke joint in Hanoi, the choice of English music is lacking; I am also surprised to find a whole sub-scene of American country music that has made its way to this neck of the woods. Willie Nelson would be over the moon.
Overall
After a day of great food, Czech-style craft beer and attempts to sing Vietnamese power ballads, we say our farewells and part ways. The drive home takes me past the stadium where some kids are leaning on their motorbikes, trying to impress their girlfriends. I turn the corner on to My Tri and get a fantastic view of Landmark 72 lit up against the night sky, and in the distance behind it, the Lotte Tower. My Dinh is still a work in progress, but if you find yourself drifting towards Hanoi’s west side, you’d be missing out if you didn’t give it a go. The easiest route to take to My Dinh from the centre of town is to follow Kim Ma west into Cau Giay. From there keep going west under ‘The High Road’ and turn left onto Le Duc Tho
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A Tour District 9 Beyond the high-rises and highways, the suburban enclave of District 9 has much to offer anyone looking for a day away from the city. Vu Ha Kim Vy and Bao Zoan tour the most northerly district of Saigon
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istrict 9 belonged to Thu Duc district until January 1997 and borders Dong Nai to the east, Binh Duong to the west, and District 2 to the south. Yet although it’s just 7km away from the centre of Saigon along the Hanoi Highway, it’s still a complete unknown to many people. While the population is still less than other young districts including Binh Tan and Tan Phu, District 9 is bigger in size and has more attractions. One of the attractions that has long been a decent choice for families and friends during weekends and holidays is Suoi Tien. Other attractions such as Buu Long Pagoda, the Boat Club Resort and Long Island Castle are also interesting getaways. Here is the list:
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Suoi Tien Amusement Park
Buu Long Pagoda
120 Hanoi Highway, Tan Phu, Q9 Entrance: VND90,000 for adults and VND45,000 for kids suoitien.com
81 Nguyen Xien, Long Binh, Q9 Entrance: free
Ethnological History and Culture Park
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ietnam’s answer to Disneyland, Suoi Tien has three main sectors — historical culture, spiritual culture and an entertainment area. Its Tien Dong beach is the first man-made beach in Vietnam, featuring the face of Lac Long Quan (the second Hung King of ancient Vietnam) sculptured into it. The park opened in 1995, and will be one of the stops on the first line of the Ho Chi Minh City Metro, scheduled to be completed in 2020. Getting there: from Saigon Bridge, keep on Hanoi Highway until you see Suoi Tien on the right hand side. Alternatively you can catch Bus number 19 from Ben Thanh Bus Station
Street 16, Binh Long, Q9 Entrance: free
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he park covers 400 hectares of land in District 9 and Binh Duong. It is divided into four historical areas including Hung Kings’ Memorial (84.15 ha), Dinh Dynasty (29.19 ha), Nguyen Dynasty (35.92 ha), and a cultural complex (245.74 ha). It has officially held the Hung Kings’ Festivals every year since 2009. Getting there: From Suoi Tien, follow Hanoi Highway for about 2km, turn right at the signboard of the park, keep going for 300 metres more to reach there. By bus, catch number 150 on Dien Bien Phu, get off at Suoi Tien, then catch the number 33 or 76 to go to the park
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uu Long is a Theravada Buddhist pagoda built in 1942 by Vo Ha Thuat and restored in 2007. It covers more than 11 hectares and is located on a hill on the western side of the Dong Nai River. It combines architectural styles from India, Myanmar, Thailand and the Nguyen Dynasty of Vietnam. It also has the Gotama Cetiya tower — the largest of its kind in Vietnam, which has three storeys and is more than 70m tall. From the top of the tower, you can see the Dong Nai River, and there is an attractive semi-circular lake out the front. Getting there: From Suoi Tien, follow Hanoi Highway, turn right at Vanh Dai, then turn right at the end to get to Nguyen Xien, keep going straight for 750 metres, you will see the pagoda on the right
Phuoc Long Pagoda Ba Xang Island, Long Binh, Q9 Entrance: free but pay VND15,000 for a boat trip to reach to the pagoda
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ocated opposite Buu Long pagoda, on Ba Xang island, Phuoc Long is an interestingly disordered place with many different Buddhist statues and artifacts. The pagoda has a collection of different types of Buddha and 18 statues of Arhats. Next to the gate, there is also a 15-metre-long reclining Buddha, which is considered one of the biggest Buddha statues of Vietnam. Getting there: From Buu Long pagoda, following Nguyen Xien about 200 metres, you will see local docks on the left, pay VND15,000 for one boat trip to reach to the pagoda
Blue Skype Garden 171 Street 22, Long Thanh My, Q9 Entrance: free, but you pay for other services once inside vuonthienthanh.vn
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his is a complex including a swimming pool (VND55,000 for adults and VND35,000 for children), a camping area, a restaurant housing up to 500 people and a sports area including billiards (VND50,000 per hour), chess, kayaking and fishing (VND100,000 per hour). There is also accommodation starting at VND350,000 for a single room. Getting there: From Buu Long pagoda, keep going on Nguyen Xien until you see Street 22 on the right
The BCR Long Island Castle 173 Long Thuan, Long Phuoc, Q9 Entrance: VND100,000 per person Tel: 0908 509505
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f you are looking for a destination for your prewedding photo shoot, Long Island could be a decent choice. It is a five-hectare area with a bunch of copied Europeanstyle castles and villas, built in 2000. The European motif is also expressed through the interiors and furniture. Other facilities include a stable, swimming pool, outdoor café, ponds, garden, wine-cellar and gym. Call in advance for prices and booking. Getting there: From the corner between Nguyen Xien and Street 22, keep going on Nguyen Xien until you see Long Thuan on the left. Keep on Long Thuan until you see Long Island on the left. By bus, from Ben Thanh Bus Station, catch Number 88
191 Tam Da, Truong Thanh, Q9 Entrance: free to get in, pay per activity thebcr.vn
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he BCR is a 23-hectare complex of outdoor activities and sports including paintball, water fighting, fishing, a swimming pool, kayaking, mini-golf, zorb ball and tennis. It has a wide range of accommodation, from bungalows (including garden or river-view rooms), villas and dorms to multifunctional rooms, plus a riverside restaurant and café. It’s good for families, friends and teambuilding. Closed on Tuesdays. Getting there: From the corner between Nguyen Xien and Long Thuan, turn onto Nguyen Duy Trinh through Vo Khe Bridge, turn onto Tam Da at the first crossroad and keep going until you see the BCR at number 191. By bus, catch the Number 88 from Ben Thanh Bus Station
La Xuan Oai Fishing Area Along La Xuan Oai, Q9 Price: VND18,000 per fishing rod per hour
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ishing services along La Xuan Oai Street have become one of the favourite outdoor activities of young people from Thu Duc, Districts 9 and 2. The service is set up with huts, chairs and tables around a big fishing pond. You can either release or eat the fish you catch, cooked by the service provider. Depending on the service providers, there are fishing prizes available as well. Getting there: From the corner between Nguyen Duy Trinh and Tam Da, keep going on Nguyen Duy Trinh until you get to La Xuan Oai
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Insider
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INSIDER
NATIONAL
Open-Mic Night There is a certain magic about getting up on stage and showing off your talent. And it’s a magic that has led to a growing number of open-mic nights taking place throughout Vietnam. Words by Jesse Meadows (Hanoi) and Vu Ha Kim Vy (Saigon)
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HANOI It’s a Wednesday afternoon at the coffee spot on West Lake, and the teachers are sipping coconuts, already thinking about the night’s weekly ritual. When the dark sets in, you’ll see them cruising by on their motorbikes with guitars strapped to their backs, rolling into Hanoi Rock City (HRC) early to get their names on the list. We all gather round under the red-andblue lights and wait for them to sing for us, or tell us stories. We know by the end of the night, they’ll have made us dance. “I’ve been teaching 20 hours a week, just to have some money on the weekends,” sings Ella Beth Walls, backed by six men on guitar, piano, saxophone, drums and bass. Ella has been hosting this event since the end of 2013, and lately, she’s seen a massive influx of artists in search of space to express themselves. “Before, people came here on contract work, just to teach. But I think Hanoi is kind of getting a name for itself,” she says. “I feel like this is really the city of opportunity. If you have an idea and you’re passionate about it, this is the place that you can try [it out].”
Opportunity For most of the artists in the room, this stage is a weekly release. “Every openmic night is an opportunity to improve yourself musically,” says guitarist James Bennett, a web designer who can regularly be found jamming on HRC’s stage. The mic is always open on Wednesdays, but the six-piece jam bands and the large audiences that come with them can be too much for quieter acts, like acoustic guitarists and poets. “[It’s hard for] a girl with a ukulele to fill that room after a full band,” remarks Tyler Purdon, a singer-songwriter and regular at HRC. A month ago, he started his own open-mic on Tuesday nights at Spacebar, a co-working cafe and creative space in West Lake. “I never used to perform in front of
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people, and it took my friend forcing me to perform at an open-mic to do it,” Tyler recalls. In the words of local poet Lizzie Millard: “The adrenaline surges through me / Will I fly or drown in the sea? / It’s this intense rush / And I might stammer and blush / But my words will hopefully resonate / Whether you think I’m terrible / or awesomely great.” Tyler’s open-mic nights are intimate, the way a jam in a friend’s living room might feel, and small enough that spoken-word artists get the attention they deserve. “We’re trying to encourage more than just music,” says Ella.
Diversify She’s begun hosting monthly spoken-word nights on Sundays at Mojito Bar, and she’s not the only one striving to diversify the stage. Poet Paul Salnek started the Free Thoughts Art Variety Show last September, and it’s now held every other Monday at The Doors Cafe. “It adds a totally new element,” he says, checking his list and greeting performers as they trickle in early for the show. “I don’t care if I’ve never met you before, you do whatever. You want to juggle beer bottles on stage? Then juggle beer bottles on stage. It’s not just [about] the music.” Every show features a live painting by Nadja Pizzimenti, who quietly fills a canvas in the corner of the room while performers take the mic. She sees the show as a motivating force for her creativity. “Sometimes I really don’t want to paint, but I know I’ll feel amazing and accomplished by going to the show, so I do,” she says. The Free Thoughts stage has seen everything from improvised sock puppet shows to a surprise performance by American comedian Shereen Kassam, who was passing through Hanoi on vacation and happened upon one of Paul’s posters. “I think it’s going to continue to grow, and I hope it’s because people hear about Vietnam and Hanoi being a creative centre,” says Ella. “That’s the way that I want the city to go.” PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS
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HO CHI MINH CITY Singing in front of many people is never easy, but my colleague Sian, made herself sing a song on the stage of an open-mic night at Saigon Outcast a few months ago. The encouragement from a bunch of the performers and many of the audience helped. Although there were not many people that night, both performers and audience seemed relaxed and entertained. Saigon Outcast is not the only venue in town hosting open-mics every Wednesday. According to Stewart Gatsi, the host of Unplugged Acoustic Thursdays at La Fenetre Soleil, there are a quite number of open-mics in Saigon, which are enough to fill up the week. Starting with Comedy Open Mic every Monday at Two in One (143 Ton That Dam, Q1), the schedule continues with Acoustic Open Mic at Broma (41 Nguyen Hue, Q1) and Open Stage at Yoko Café (22 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3) every Tuesday, Jameson Jam Session at Saigon Outcast (188 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2) and Comedy Open Mic at Piu Piu (97 Hai Ba trung, Q1) every Wednesday, Unplugged Acoustic Thursday at La Fenetre Soleil (44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1), Open Mic Night at Moto Saigon (88 Street 23, Q7) every Friday and Sunday Open Mic at La Fenetre Soleil.
A Place to Show Your Passion “I have a passion for music and have always pursued it,” says Stewart. “So I always try to go to different open-mics, and just let people hear my music.” He has been singing since 2008 and started playing guitar in 2013. Besides managing the event on Thursday at La Fenetre Soleil, he also performs solo acoustic at Saigon Outcast, Saigon Ranger, Acoustic Bar and Ruby Soho in District 7. Tom Sanders, who I met at a reading night at Piu Piu hosted by Saigon Artbook last month, admits he loves performing. “I think I perform more for myself than for other people. I feel lucky and happy when people come to see me,” he says. “Because I do hip-hop, comedy, poetry, short fiction, live readings, I can be at many different nights across the city and many more people can see me.”
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An Unpressured Stage Sian had three beers before getting on the stage that night. But once she had finished the first song, she wanted to sing a second. “They’ve created an environment where it’s okay not to be perfect, it’s okay to f*** up,” she says. “No one is paying to see a professional musician — people come because they want to see something authentic and spontaneous happen.” Unplugged Acoustic Thursdays has two parts including live acoustic solo performances and an open floor for amateurs who want to jam with the main artists. “It’s a comfortable, relaxed environment for artists to be able to express themselves and grow without too much pressure,” Stewart explains. Since performing on stage is not so pressured anymore, it becomes an ideal practicing space. And the more you practice, the better you get. “There are a lot of hidden gems of musicians that I’ve come across. Brittany Petit is just one example,” says Stewart. “She went from this very shy open-mic singer to hosting the Jameson Acoustic Jam at Saigon Outcast.”
A Social Forum An open-mic is not all about performing on stage. It’s a social space where people can share ideas and styles and think together, Tom says. “People come because they are searching for the moment that they connect with and to meet other people who feel like them,” he adds. Y-Kroc, a co-host of the Saigon Outcast open-mic, says people simply come to open-mics at their favourite venues to relax and enjoy. “Part of the audience are my friends,” he explains, “They come mostly because of me.” One of the beauties of an open-mic is the uniqueness. You cannot create the same open-mic twice, as every time musicians meet, something — the dynamic, the atmosphere, the instruments they play, the rhythms, where there mind is at — changes, Sian says. “You can go to the same one every week,” she says. “But you’ll never be at the same event.” PHOTOS BY RODNEY HUGHES
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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
Dieu’s Cuisine A staple on the shores of West Lake for more than five years, Dieu’s Cuisine is still going strong. Our Mystery Diner pays a visit to learn the secret to their enduring success. Photos by Julie Vola
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nter Dieu’s Cuisine and you are immediately enveloped by the décor; a striking combination of pale greens, vivid oranges and bright whites on the tables and chairs. The effect is to create an elegant, yet not intimidatingly upmarket vibe. All seating is outside, which means most tables are blessed with a view of West Lake, although equally afflicted by all the flying and biting nuisances such proximity is bound to bring. Open for five years, one thing that longevity hasn’t changed is the high
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bar Dieu’s sets itself to all customers. Every menu comes with a preamble declaring we are not simply customers, we’re guests. It goes on to assure us that the food is prepared in a home-cooked style, using fresh ingredients while staying away from MSG. With expectations high I set about perusing the menu, which is hand-written in calligraphy. Service is friendly and quick, although a few orders were lost in translation. Hilarious consequences ensued, as the thick and tasty mixed fruit smoothie (VND65,000) was first served as a yoghurt-topped
fruit salad before being quickly exchanged for the correct beverage. Similarly, I noticed my order of sweet and sour pork (VND125,000) being written down as ‘squid pork’ — an error I quickly corrected before that was interpreted into a frightening hybrid dish by a presumably confused chef. Although advertising itself as ‘fusion cuisine’, we decided to stick to the more traditional homecooked style dishes for our visit. In Hanoi, this means nem. From a choice of five, we opted for the fried pork spring rolls (VND60,000).
THE VERDICT
14 FOOD
9
SERVICE
10 DÉCOR
Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.
With presentation that mothers everywhere would approve of, they arrived cut up on a plate surrounding a bowl of nuoc mam. With substance definitely trumping style, they were well-flavoured and crispy enough to elicit a gentle murmur of approval after each bite.
Food Focus The main courses continued the theme of prioritising quality over fancy plating. Without worrying about serving food on hipster butchers’ blocks or decanting drinks into hemp-clad masonry
jars, Dieu’s is free to focus on flavour. The sweet and sour pork (VND125,000) was thinly sliced but still tender, and arrived swimming in a plate of perfectly sticky sauce, a real delicious treat. The tofu with lemongrass and chilli (VND85,000) was satisfying, but lacking any real spicy punch. The highlight of the meal was undoubtedly the grilled shrimp (VND130,000), served in garlic butter and sliced open along the tail to simplify the process of peeling the shells. The tenderness of the generously sized shrimp being
matched only by the rich flavour of the juices they were served in, they alone would be a reason to return. All things considered, this was a satisfying meal in a nice restaurant. Dieu’s may not do bells and whistles, but it does do good food served by staff with the best intentions for the guest at heart. Turns out the secret to Dieu’s longevity is quite simple; simplicity. Dieu’s Cuisine is located at 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi (the lower section of the road closest to the lake). Open daily from 9am to 11pm, bookings and delivery are available on 0987 346843
13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals
Food and Drink STREET SNACKER
HANOI
Che Muoi Sau Tran Cam Thu visits a 50-year-old sweet shop that pays homage to the sugary snacks of Hanoi’s past. Photos by Boris Lopatin
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at North, dress South”, is a Vietnamese saying that originated in the mid20th century. Hanoians have always taken great pride in their understated sophistication which manifests itself in various ways, one of which is their refined taste in food. Proudly sloganned “purely Hanoi”, Che Muoi Sau is one such quintessential Hanoi sweet shop. This half-a-century old establishment started out in Hom market in 1958, and in 1976 moved to its present location at 16 Ngo Thi Nham, at the corner with Le Van Huu — a neighbourhood known for delicious and authentic local fare without the higher prices found in the Old Quarter. Every year on the 3rd day of the 3rd lunar month is the Cold Food festival, or Tet banh troi banh chay, which is widely celebrated in the north. The media is always on hand to record the super-long queues in front of this small shop to buy banh troi (rice balls with brown sugar filling) and banh chay (rice balls with mung bean paste in tapioca soup).
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Consistency People flock here because they want to offer the best food on the altar to their ancestors. Hanoi dishes tend to be simpler than their southern and central counterparts, and are often made with fewer ingredients. Thus the secret is to use the right ingredients of the finest quality. The rice balls must be made with 100 percent glutinous rice flour to make them chewy. For banh troi, brown sugar cubes should be used instead of white ones. For banh chay, the mung bean paste must be consistent and smooth in texture — the beans have to be meticulously soaked, separated from their skin, steamed and ground into paste. Banh chay at Che Muoi Sau has a higher ratio of mung bean paste to rice flour than most shops and hence is less filling. The tapioca soup is quite light and not too sweet, to enhance rather than overpower the exquisitely made rice balls. Apart from the quality banh chay, another dish that I come to Che Muoi Sau for is che dau den (black bean sweet soup). It’s a household staple and a favourite after-lunch snack to combat the summer heat in the north. Served with thach den (grass jelly) and
dua nao (shredded coconut) on top, it is as good and cooling as a glass of che can be. Che Muoi Sau also sells a lesser known version of che dau den in which the soup is thickened with tapioca — this version is often made at home rather than sold in shops. Other dishes at Che Muoi Sau are all Hanoi specialities such as com xao (young sticky rice cooked with sugar), che sen (lotus seed sweet soup), and xoi che (sticky rice coated with mung bean eaten with tapioca soup). Whenever I come back to town, I always make it a point to visit this spot, watching the young and old enjoying the sweet snacks by themselves here, soaking in the feel of a bygone Hanoi. With banh mi served with pickles and pho with onions gaining popularity in town, that authentic Hanoi taste has become ever more elusive. Che Muoi Sau stands out thanks to its authenticity. And its unwavering popularity hopefully means that die-hard Hanoians like me will some day get to take our children there and enjoy a taste of old Hanoi together. Che Muoi Sau is at 16 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Each dish costs from VND10,000 to 20,000 a go
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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER
HCMC
Mountain Retreat Can Vietnamese food reach the dizzy heights of haute cuisine? Our mystery diner finds out. Photos by Rodney Hughes
M
ost expats have their favourite Vietnamese restaurant, the one to which they bring their parents and friends. You know the one I mean; where we show visitors that there’s more to Vietnamese cooking than pho, more than street food, banh mi or com tam. You know, the one that demonstrates that Vietnamese food can be haute cuisine? Mountain Retreat, right in the pulsing heart of downtown Saigon, is that kind of restaurant. Inspired renditions of classic dishes, creatively old-fashioned ambience and terrific service are all the ingredients required; the refreshing rooftop garden and spectacular
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night-time view were a welcome bonus. I arrived with my date, and a visiting family member at the same time as a shower of rain, so we couldn’t sit in the rooftop garden; instead the waitress led us to a small but well-appointed table for three.
Vietnamese Classics We started with drinks; amberella juice (VND45,000), a passion fruit juice cocktail (VND95,000) and a tropical rain cocktail (VND95,000), a lovely combination of fruit juices with a hefty sting lurking under the sweet. The star of the evening was presented first; soaked beef with fish sauce and rice paper (VND115,000), a superior version of a type of dish we all should know. The rice paper
was standard, but the thin-sliced beef was delicately flavoured, and the plate of vegetables was massive, with green bananas, pineapple, starfruit, lettuce, leafy herbs and pickled carrots and radish. My date deftly assembled the rolls and passed them around the table: my family member was visiting Vietnam for the first time, and we had to give him a hand when it came to the intricacies of fine dining, Saigon-style. This relative dipped rolls into fish sauce, and I watched his eyes widen as he took a bite. My personal favourites were the stir-fried gourd flowers (VND75,000) and rau muong with beef (VND75,000), yet more unusually well-done versions of classic dishes. Lastly came the chicken
THE VERDICT
11.5 FOOD
12.5 SERVICE
12.5 DÉCOR
with green rice (VND95,000). Unfortunately it was too oily — the usually crispy green rice had turned soggy underneath. Along with that we tucked into garlic fried rice (VND75,000), a nice variation on a familiar theme, light with crispy garlic, not heavily oiled and long on flavour. Nothing clashed. The meal worked well in combination — and based on the care taken with the menu, it’s not hard for me to think that most any such combination would work as a meal. The bill came to a wonderfully cheap VND726,000 — actually, it felt more like us robbing them rather than the kind of price you often encounter at tourist-aimed restaurants in many countries.
A Mountain Retreat, an Urban Oasis The nature of Mountain Retreat means I need to devote more space than usual to decor and service. Wattle and daub have been swirled along the walls, a gorgeous change from the usual stained plaster or bare concrete. Red lanterns and shelves of ceramic pots and smiling Buddhas complete the image of a simple country inn transported into the downtown of Vietnam’s largest city. Separated by rattan and bamboo partitions, the rooftop garden is lush, almost overgrown, and complements the bamboo partitions and water-aged wooden furniture. Touring outside after dinner, truly did the restaurant’s
name justice. We were, indeed, in a mountain retreat, though the mountains looming bright-lit above us were glass and steel, not native stone. The service shone, too, balancing seeing to our needs and leaving us alone better than any other Vietnamese restaurant I’ve been to in recent memory. All the servers were polite, even friendly, and gave the impression they liked their work. If the pace slowed a bit at times, it fit the idyllic image of Mountain Retreat. Even so, food came in properly timed waves, never leaving us without something to eat, all the way through up to paying the bill. Mountain Retreat is at Top Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, HCMC
Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals
Food and Drink
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STREET SNACKER
HCMC
Hu Tieu Nam Vang Even street food goes in and out of fashion. Words by Nick Ross. Photos by Siân Kavanagh
W
hen I first came to Saigon, I would eat on the street every morning. At the time, Vietnamese cuisine wasn’t as well-documented as it is now and it certainly wasn’t the popular focus of worldwide adoration that it has become in the past decade. So, when I started eating the street-side noodle soup, I had no idea what it was called. It wasn’t pho, I knew that — this one came with pork leg, bits of minced pork and slices of boiled pork. In fact at the time pho wasn’t even deemed to be the national dish. According to the Lonely Planet it was spring rolls — cha gio in Saigon and nem ran in Hanoi. And it definitely wasn’t bun bo Hue — during this period this ‘new’ dish was just starting to make inroads into the Ho Chi Minh City dining scene. As was other cuisine from Hue; bun thit nuong, com hen and banh bot loc Eventually I discovered what I was eating was hu tieu. I loved it, and at a time where pho was more expensive and hard to find in Ho Chi Minh City, this dish with its clear broth, slightly al dente noodles, deep-fried shallots, shrimp and carrot was to die for.
War and Food The reason for hu tieu being the dish of choice in the late 1990s and early 2000s has to do with Vietnam’s involvement in Cambodia, which formally ended in 1989. Within two years of taking power in 1975, Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge made moves towards the creation of a Greater Cambodia. This started with an invasion of Phu Quoc Island and was followed by border raids into the Mekong Delta in Vietnam. In one village alone, Ba Chuc, 3,000 people were massacred in one night. Pol Pot’s megalomania included partywide purges. Anyone who was Vietnamese, had Vietnamese blood or relatives, or who had been trained by the Vietnamese to fight in the early 1970s was rounded up and killed. Those who could, including many top party leaders and Chinese Khmer, escaped to Vietnam. With them they brought the bestknown noodle soup dish in Cambodia, kuy teav, a Chinese-inspired dish made with dry, thin, rectangular-shaped rice noodles. Known by the Vietnamese as hu tieu Nam Vang — Nam Vang is the old word for Phnom Penh — with a few adaptations to make it more favourable to the local palate, within a decade it became a Saigon favourite. A few places served up the original version
brought over by the Chinese Khmer which included liver, intestine, tongue and ground pork. But most ditched the additional cuts of meat in favour of shrimp or even crab. Regardless of the preferred version, at the time pork was cheap, making this dish more affordable than pho bo.
From Icon to Bygone? Hit the streets of Saigon today and you’ll rarely see food stands selling this once iconic noodle soup. Instead com tam or bitty rice, pho, banh mi, bo kho and bun bo Hue are all the rage. Over the past few years I’ve hardly eaten hu tieu at all. You just don’t find it on the street these days. But I can still taste the broth, its rich sweetness, and I can still taste the pork and remember the way it came effortlessly off the bone. I also still remember late night, post-bar eating sessions at hu tieu restaurants in Vung Tau and Saigon. Eating this dish was not only a perfect way to start off the day, but a perfect way to end it as well. If you look, you can still find hu tieu in Saigon. But you’ll need to know where. Here are a couple of places: Nam Quan, 72 Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q3, HCMC and Hu Tieu Nam Vang Quynh, A65 Nguyen Trai, Q1
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Travel
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TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Kiev
Two years after the war, Nick Ross visits one of the most important cities in Eastern Europe and leaves suitably impressed
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“I
have family and friends in the Crimea,” says Ludmilla, a tour guide based in Kiev, “and I used to go there twice a year. But now we don’t talk to each other. The authorities hate Ukraine and I won’t go there. I’m not going to use my passport to cross a border to go from Ukraine to Ukraine.” Such are the tensions two years on from the Maidan Revolution in February 2014 which caused the Russian annexation of Crimea and the self-declared independence of the Donbass region, two provinces in the southeast of the country. Yet travel to Kiev, the capital of Ukraine, and on the surface, life continues as normal. “Now we are told that we don’t have any more corruption,” says Alexei, a
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thirty-something driver living in the Ukrainian capital. “Yet all the prices have increased and everyone is poorer.” He shrugs his shoulders in a ‘what can you do’ kind of way. The average salary in Kiev is €150 (VND3.8 million) a month. In the provinces it goes down to €50. This is a poor country. Another person I meet, Kirill, gives me an alternative, quite unique story. “I am the CEO of Donetsk Airport,” he says. He’s drunk and three hours away from flying to the Maldives. I even speak to his wife on the phone. “Can you get him home?” she asks me. She’s waiting to leave for another airport, Kiev Borispol, to fly off for their made-in-tropical-paradise holiday. Yet Kirill can’t stop telling me his story.
“I was there when the Russians came with their guns,” he says. “So I just got out of the way and made sure I evacuated all my staff.” Two years on he’s still CEO of the same airport, yet he has no airport and has had to find work for his 4,000 staff. He’s still on the government books. “The stories I could tell you,” he says. “Next time you come to Kiev, call me.”
Tug of War Such is Kiev. Once the third largest metropolis in the former Soviet Union — only Moscow and St. Petersburg were larger — behind everything you see and feel in this city, is the tug-of-war spectre between east and west, the aftermath of 2014. Should Ukraine go with Europe and join
“Despite these tensions, this ancient city maintains its pre-Bolshevik aura of architectural grandeur and religion”
the EU? Or should it dive headlong into the Russian-influenced Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS), an organisation founded in the aftermath of the collapse of the Soviet Union? It’s a story complicated by history and language. Russian civilization started in Kievan Rus, the mediaeval predecessor of Kiev. To this day, the Ukrainian and Russian languages are as similar as Swedish and Danish. Those in the west of the country see their future with the EU, while those in the east prefer the other acronym, and those in between just want to get by in a country stifled by debt, crumbling infrastructure and high unemployment. Despite these tensions, this ancient city maintains its pre-Bolshevik aura of
architectural grandeur and religion; the Ukrainian Orthodox religion is everywhere. Put together with cobblestone streets in the city centre, lush green parks and some jaw-dropping architecture, it’s a beautiful place. Think of an eastern version of Paris or something akin to Budapest, and you’ll get an image of Kiev. At the same time it is a town obsessed by smoking, beer and foreign cuisine, although if you order the ‘beer plate’ with your drink, you’ll get more cured and smoked protein on a piece of porcelain than you’d normally eat in a month.
Conversation, Football and Nightlife I spent four mid-summer nights in the city and one full day, traipsing its streets, descending its metro stations — they must
be among the deepest in the world — and traversing its many hills. What struck me was the sophistication of this once-forgotten outpost of communism. Despite years of deprivation, Kiev has maintained its pride in itself and in its history. It’s also a city of strip clubs, all-night drinking and behind-the-scenes debauchery. What struck me most was that people here like to talk, and when they’re drunk, sing. On my first night I met Ivan, an aspiring young goalkeeper who was about to travel through Europe on his way to watching the Euro 2016 tournament in France. Suddenly I found myself caught up in an evening of beer and cider — a local speciality — spent with three of his friends as we went from one bar to the next. One friend was studying
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“Once the third largest metropolis in the former Soviet Union — only Moscow and St. Petersburg were larger — behind everything you see and feel in this city, is the tug-of-war spectre between east and west, the aftermath of 2014”
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to be a lawyer, the second a doctor and the final one, I can’t remember his name or what he was doing, but he specialised in downing a pint of Guinness in under 10 seconds. He did it three times that night. Then the singing started. Everyone together in unison. The second night I found myself in another bar talking to Kirill. His first question? “Are you here for the women?” I quickly showed him my wedding ring and his response was: “Oh, they won’t care about that.” We burst out laughing. But I’d already been asked this question once and by the time I took my taxi back to the airport on the final morning, the question had been broached four times. Night three was spent with a group of Ukrainians watching their national team play Germany. The night before, Russia had earned an unlikely last-minute draw with England. They couldn’t stop talking about it, they were so disappointed. How could England not beat their nemesis? The town was busier for the England match than it was for the game against Germany. Such are the feelings of national pride in Ukraine. On my final night I headed to an Irish pub for more football, this time a match between Ireland and Sweden. There had to be a lot of Irish supporters around tonight, I thought to myself. I was wrong. Half the pub was
supporting Sweden, including the bar staff. Not an Irishman in sight.
Between the Cracks In my short time in Kiev I only touched the surface. Yet I noticed some interesting details. Free Wifi is everywhere and it’s far faster than in a ‘developed’ country such as the UK. This is a country obsessed by tickets. Taxi drivers give them to you. Museums give them to you. Street vendors give them to you as well. Yet on the metro you get coupons. I was also struck how both the cathedrals and even the synagogue had banned photography once you got inside. Was this a religious thing, I thought to myself? Or was it something else? The motifs, the auburn and gold artwork, the shrines and mosaics of St. Sophia’s Cathedral are breathtaking. Show them to the world through photography and you will get more tourists. Yet, no, impossible. So instead I climbed the 208 steps to the top of the bell tower to take photos of the city from above. And what a city it is. The final thing that surprised me was the local reaction to Chernobyl. This unique — and now largely safe radiation-wise — location could attract hundreds of thousands of tourists a year if they dealt with the
negative public perception surrounding the radiation. Yet, in Kiev, people were oblivious to the potential sitting on their doorstep. If you’re worried about safety, hidden tensions and war, don’t be. Kiev is a wonderful place to visit. It’s cheap, too. Vietnam cheap.
Information I flew with Ukranian International Airlines (flyuia.com) and both the flight and the service were more than adequate. Other major airlines serve Kiev including Turkish Airlines, British Airways and Air France. Accommodation is phenomenally cheap. On my first night I stayed in a well-appointed, one-bedroom apartment just off Maidan Square for US$30 (VND675,000). After that I opted for Air BnB. Once again I stayed centrally and found myself paying US$20 a night. If you like your beer, this is the place to go. Local beer in the centre of town starts at US$1 (VND22,500) a pint. Imported beer is also reasonable, weighing in at US$1.50 for a pint of excellent Czech Pilsner and rising to about US$3 for high-strength Belgian draft.
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Travel
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The Fo rgotten City TRAVEL
INTERN ATIONA L
For r One su easons beyon d their c the mo h place is Pri pyat in control, some del Sov n iet city, metrop o in 1986 orthern Ukra ine. Fou lises don’t su it was a rvi n bandon ed. Wo ded in 1970 an ve. rds and d dubb e photos by Nick d Ross
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“Pripyat is a vision of what that world may be like. Peeling paint, rotten floorboards, crumbling walls, looted buildings, smashed glass, shattered tiles — 30 years of devastation. With the departure of man, nature has thrived”
W
hen people think of forgotten or abandoned cities they think of Angkor Wat, Machu Picchu and perhaps Hashima Island in Japan. Few would think of Pripyat, but then why would they? Built in 1970 by the Soviets and granted city status in 1978, just eight years later it was abandoned, making it a far-too-recent phenomenon to travel half way round the world for. It also happens to be 3km from Reactor 4 in Chernobyl, the nuclear power station that was the source of the worst nuclear accident in history. Two explosions at the reactor on Apr. 26, 1986 killed 31 people directly, with an additional 4,000 people estimated to have died due to radiation-related diseases, while another 200,000 people in Ukraine and
neighbouring Belarus had to be evacuated and resettled. In some estimates this figure rises to half a million. Meaning that with all that radiation — 400 times the amount released in the Hiroshima bomb — visiting Pripyat and Chernobyl is madness, right? Wrong. Although as the long-haired Austrian gardener said to me of his travel companion: “He was the only friend who would come with me. The rest of them told me to f*!k off.” His fascination about Pripyat and Chernobyl has been as long founded as mine. About 10 years ago he watched a documentary on the area and has wanted to visit ever since. A decade later, armed with a Nikon and the desire to take 1,500 photos
over the two-day trip, his dream is reality. My own fascination started with the novel Wolves Eat Dogs, an episode in the Arkady Renko detective series by Martin Cruz Smith, half of which was set in Chernobyl and Pripyat. Visiting the area felt like having a cameo role in a movie, or a “walk-on part in the war”, as Pink Floyd put it. As I discovered, the locations and background were accurate. Throughout my visit, Wolves Eat Dogs acted as my personal soundtrack.
Apocalyptic If you want the apocalypse, that is what almost happened at Chernobyl. After the initial explosions, thousands of people risked their lives to clean up the radioactive mess and make the reactor safe. So intense
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loth et c f o ece f a helmon i p n a ing o ters w o h e s the lin firefigh Placing r e w n . e e “Wehad bee e of th plosion arby th n x e — that rn by oof the e nters n scale to wo day r cou ff the en up ied a the Geige went o and ev had d our ading 1,000 ighter ”” re mSv, firef death e 0 h 90 SV. T ndous 0m horre 1,60
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“Built in 1970 by the Soviets and granted city status in 1978, just eight years later Pripyat was abandoned, making it a far-too-recent phenomenon to travel half way round the world for�
was the radiation, that the maximum exposure each worker was able to take was 40 seconds at a time; the pressure and logistics were immense. Yet by building a sarcophagus around the reactor and blocking in the nuclear materials, the clean-up effort prevented the reactor exploding with a force equivalent to a nuclear bomb, a force that would have destroyed half of Europe. To avoid the wider public from getting radiation poisoning, a 4,800 km2 exclusion zone was created around Chernobyl, which encompassed nearby villages, the purposebuilt city of Pripyat and large swathes of southern Belarus. Home to the majority of the workers serving the nuclear power plant, Pripyat also housed employees working on the then secretive Duga radar system,
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“When we entered the exclusion zone we checked the radiation on our Geiger counters — around 0.15 to 0.2 millisievert (mSv), less than the standard radiation in nearby Kiev. The safe level is below 0.3. In most of the zone it kept to this level. It was only in certain hotspots that it rose higher, but still not to levels that are anything near dangerous�
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the largest radar structure in the world. Designed to detect missiles within three minutes of their launch, in the aftermath of Chernobyl and the end of the Cold War, the so-called Russian Woodpecker was abandoned. A small number of people — or ‘self settlers’ — have resettled in Pripyat and the surrounding villages in recent years. But besides their presence and some work carried out in the city after the explosions in 1986, the metropolis has been left to the elements.
What If Twelve Monkeys, 28 Days After, Robocop. Movie after movie has tried to picture a world in the aftermath of a disaster. Pripyat is a vision of what that world may be like. Peeling paint, rotten floorboards, crumbling walls, looted buildings, smashed glass, shattered tiles — 30 years of devastation. With the departure of man, nature has thrived. In just three decades Pripyat and the close by town of Chernobyl-2 have been reclaimed by the forest. Animals have made a comeback, too. Wolves and wild boar now roam the forests while an indigenous species of wild horse that was introduced to the area as an experiment has flourished — we saw one
from a distance. Populations of wild dogs and cats have exploded; although bred to live in the vicinity of humans, the dogs tend to stay close to their best friend. As for the radiation, that has declined considerably. When we entered the exclusion zone we checked it on our Geiger counters — around 0.15 to 0.2 millisievert (mSv), less than the standard radiation in nearby Kiev. The safe level is below 0.3 on the Geiger counter. In most of the zone it kept to this level. It was only in certain hotspots that it rose higher, but still not to levels that are anything near dangerous. In these areas our visit lasted no longer than 10 or 15 minutes. However, we did have one shock. When we visited the abandoned hospital in Pripyat we were shown a piece of cloth that had been the lining of a helmet worn by one of the firefighters on the day of the explosion. It had originally been buried in the hospital basement along with other pieces of fireman's apparel worn on that fatal day. “Don’t touch,” said our guide. She was right. Placing our Geiger counters nearby the reading went off the scale — 900mSv, 1,000 and even up to 1,600mSV. The firefighter along with all his colleagues at the scene died a horrendous death. It was a sacrifice that has not been forgotten.
Information Chernobyl and Pripyat are about a 90-minute drive north of Kiev. You can fly to Kiev direct from most cities in Western and Eastern Europe and through places like Istanbul, Doha and Dubai. Entrance to the exclusion zone is strictly controlled and at various stages during the trip you will be screened for radiation. Since tourists stick to areas where radiation is back to pre-disaster levels, rarely if ever is there an issue. I took my two-day trip with C HERNOBYL W ELCOME (chernobylwel.com). It was well-organised and our guide, Tanya, was knowledgeable, fun and a good leader. Not one person on the tour had a grudge, even with the only ‘international’ hotel in Chernobyl. But then, you’re not coming to such a place for creature comforts. By the end of the two days a camaraderie had developed between people in our group. Prices for one-day trips start at €100 (VND2.5 million) and rise to €300 for the two-day version. As they say, you get what you pay for. Where possible I veer away from organised tours, but the one provided by Chernobyl Welcome comes highly recommended. It was excellent.
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Travel
DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.
This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663
M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555
hanoi-daewoohotel.com
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Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888
hanoi.intercontinental.com
This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
moevenpick-hanoi.com
With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. NOVOTEL SUITES 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3576 6666
novotel.com/9813
Suites and apartments with all the mod cons and attrac-
tive décor you’d expect of an Accor property. Located close to My Dinh and 20 minutes from downtown Hanoi, this new property with an inhouse restaurant and bar is perfect for business professionals or travellers looking to mix a stay in Hanoi with the feeling of being located in a place you can call home. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919
sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the
second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048
josephshotel.com
Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.
HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372
hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.
HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Report’s 2006
list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade. LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688
lemeridien.com/saigon
Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creativeminded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings. LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.
This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.
saigon.newworldhotels.com
PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1117
renaissance-saigon.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.
sofitel.com
WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.
M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.
M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
M M M HCMC – BUDGET
This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.
DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992
NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso. NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866
ducvuonghotel.com
from the backpacker’s area. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An
anbangbeachretreat.com
CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront
Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090
villasong.com
Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice. STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
The newly-built hotel is near
wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 131
NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY
On the river at Long Xuyen. Floating markets are one of the main attractions in the region
A ferry going across one of the many tributaries that make up the Mekong
B
e truthful now; how much do you know about the Mekong Delta? If you’re like most expats in Vietnam, not very much, I bet. You’ve got no excuse — the Mekong Delta is the world’s largest delta, an ecological treasure trove, the nation’s rice basket, and a region of pivotal importance to the wealth and wellbeing of the country. You can hardly be blamed for being in the dark, though; the Delta has never received much press attention. Alternate floods and droughts seem to be the only events there that the media considers newsworthy. But you don’t have to remain in the dark forever. You can always get yourself off your sofa and take a little look-see for yourself.
The Itinerary Travelling the Delta independently, while not impossible, is arduous, and most travellers choose to go with a tour company. There are plenty to choose from. Unlike other parts of Vietnam, in the Mekong Delta the tourist infrastructure is relatively undeveloped. On a tour you can expect to be passed from carrier to carrier, and from tour company to tour company. The road
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By Don Wills
network is patchy, and eventually peters out the further south you go. For the most part you’ll find yourself on the water, whether it be aboard a small cruise vessel, motorboat, sampan, noisy long-tail speedboat or skiff. You’ll be expected to hoof it from time to time while transferring from transport A to transport B. Sometimes you’ll have the river to yourself, at other times your boat will be cautiously nosing its way between freighters, barges, sampans and river vendors. If your tour kicks off from Ho Chi Minh City, My Tho is the first stop. It’s situated on an island in the river, and there you can visit the crowded fish markets, wander through tropical fruit orchards, and sample the local delicacy, elephant’s ear fish. (It’s very good, by the way.) Second stop is Vinh Long. The floating markets are its main attraction. Hundreds of small boats selling produce of all kinds, with a sample of the wares each has to offer suspended from a long pole. You can get on a small boat and stop off at riverside workshops with blacksmiths, rice huskers, basket weavers, thatchers and makers of bricks, noodles, fans, brooms, and sugarcane based confectionary.
ENTRY 6:
A boat vendor in the port of Cai Be. His family has a local monopoly on melons
Next up, Can Tho. This city, the trading hub of the Delta, is the first taste of sophistication that you’ll get this trip. It has international restaurants, a nightclub or two, motorbikes for hire, and hotels that will actually exchange your dollars. The last place you come to is Chau Doc, a border town with not all that much going for it, except that it’s a gateway to Cambodia.
Big Fish and Little Fish Although the infrastructure is undeveloped, the people are invariably friendly and welcoming. On a tour to Can Tho last year I met Thuan, a courier-guide of around 25, with a good command of English and an air of quiet competence about him. He and I had temporarily wandered away from our group for a quiet beer at a nearby café. “You know,” said Thuan, “it’s my dream to set up a company of my own one day.” “A tour company?” “Of course — that’s the only business I know anything about. But it’ll be a tour business with a difference. It will be a tour for drinkers. ‘Pub-crawls’ you call them, right? Well, mine will be a river pub-crawl. “I’ll serve beer on my boat, and we’ll stop off at local rice-wine manufacturers, home
Delta Doings
A young girl helps her family weave mats in the Delta town of Cai Be
breweries, and grape-wine makers so the passengers can buy a drink or two, and take a bottle home with them. It’s a win-win situation; the customers get drunk, I get a commission on how much they spend, and everybody’s happy.” “Sounds like a good idea. What’s stopping you?” Thuan sighed and lowered his voice. “As soon as it starts getting successful, the big-time tour operators would get their protection heavies onto me, or steal my idea outright.” He sighed again. “Small
operators have a hard time of it in the Delta.” There are many words to describe the Mekong Delta, but the word I think fits it best is ‘different’. A world away from the bustle and chaos of Hanoi and Saigon, a million miles away from the culture and tradition of Hue, light-years away from the rampant commercialism of Ha Long Bay, it’s… well, it’s just plain different. Born in New Zealand, Don Wills lives in Vung Tau. He’s been writing his way round the region for decades
If your tour kicks off from Ho Chi Minh City, My Tho is the first stop. It’s situated on an island in the river, and there you can visit the crowded fish markets, wander through tropical fruit orchards, and sample the local delicacy, elephant’s ear fish
wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 133
Travel
with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool. MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777
mercure-danang.com
Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix. THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.
M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors. BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/lang_co
PHOTO BY VU HA KIM VY
Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity
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with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475
la–residence–hue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
M M M NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222
sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination
2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature. MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant,
bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727
ninhchubay.com
Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination. BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322
blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those
who opened it in 1995. JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177
joescafemuine.com
A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix. MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.
M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail. com
A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night. HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
M M M PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season. MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar. SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02
salindaresort.com
Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with contemporary design. The
property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.
M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.
M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-
galows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.
M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam. BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150
exotravel.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays. HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828
handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations. HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com). INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses
on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture. TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977
kien@travelsense.asia
A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.
TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170
buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam. EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotravel.com
A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers. GRASSHOPPER ADVENTURES Tel: 0946 704095
grasshopperadventures.com
Escape the bustle with
Southeast Asia’s top rated bike tour company. Run guided day tours to the Mekong Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels. Also organize longer, two to 14-day tours throughout Vietnam. TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure. com
Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.
TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659
backofthebiketours.com
Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. BEENINASIA.COM
beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.
May 3rd - Oct 31st
wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 135
THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 16: JOURNEY’S END
Connecting the two dots on the map, Hanoi to Kathmandu, Matt Dworzanczyk hits the brakes after 25,000km on the road. DAY 297 Durbar Square And I drove to Durbar Square. Some 25,000km on this journey of mine, nearly a year on the road, so many stories, a wild ride, and yes, I’ve ‘officially’ connected the two dots on the map. Hanoi, meet Kathmandu. Kathmandu, that’s my dear Hanoi. And I remember being here eight years ago, just a young kid overwhelmed by this extraordinary city. And even leaving Hanoi, I thought ahead of reliving these memories again once I get here. But today, after Nepal’s recent earthquake, Durbar Square is all rubble. Yet, life goes on, even here. And there’s a lesson, something on acceptance, to be gained here. Pushing on through thick and thin for an entire year just to get ‘here’ again, only to find that ‘here’ is no longer there, but maybe, it’s been ‘here’ all along? And this charm of Kathmandu I had experienced back then, only magnified in my head each day over the past eight years of longing to return, it will now only exist and even continue to grow, within.
of my mind, I guess I always knew that wherever we ended up, it would have been a one-way road.
DAY 307 One last Journey Driving through rocks, deep into the mountains nearing Tibet and I only have barely enough petrol left to get to the mythical Muktinath and back. And a local guy with a kid on his bike flags me down. He’s out of gas and stranded. Damn you, life! You’re testing me, aren’t you? I don’t have enough for myself and I’ve been anxious about it all day, so I give him half of mine. “Go get your boy home.”
DAY 308 Into The Wild My last campsite. Surrounded by mountains, I start a fire. The heat is appreciated in these frigid Himalayan temperatures. And with the fire dying, I’m fading to sleep when, a wolf howl, right by me. Wild wolves come by to check out my camp, and I’m both too humbled and too terrified to leave my tent and face them.
DAY 300
DAY 315
Parting with a Friend And the reality hits me, it’s here that I’ve got to press on the brakes. Printing posters to find a new home for my Nemo (or I would, if there was any electricity). And it will break my heart to part with him, but in the back
Kathmandu, Pokhara, Mountains Days have gotten cold, nights frigid. The weather makes me feel alive. And my days are spent with a quiet mind, a notebook in hand, with breaks for chai (or chiya, in Nepal), with highlights of homemade
136 | Word July 2016 | wordvietnam.com
nan and paneer, in company of colourful strangers not at all strange to me.
DAY 320 Be Good, Nemo I gave up my tent and camping gear to a local who offered me some food and a night’s stay. And finally the sad day comes when I have to part ways with my Nemo. And I left a little note on his side covers for any traveller who might come in contact with my dear bike one day. Goodbye, Nemo. He continues on from here, with another travelling soul, as I’m taken by life in another direction.
DAY 324 KTM-DAC-KUL-DMK-HAN And I used to think I’d end this journey like a story, with a neat conclusion, but now, any literary resolution feels limiting and contrived. But I know I have journeyed my full “character arc” and far beyond. I’m elsewhere today from where I was a year ago. Where? Here. Just ‘here’. And in a slightly different context, yet with much the same intent, in the voice of American Beauty’s Lester Burnham: “You have no idea what I’m talking about, I’m sure. But don’t worry, you will someday.” And that’s about it. So yup, let’s cue the music: “I am a passenger.” For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at EtheriumSky. com/ProdBlog
wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 137
Hanoi
Day Tripper: Hanoi / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats / Medical Buff / A World of Good / Book Buff Photo by Jesse Meadows
138 | Word July 2016 | wordvietnam.com
Hanoi Essentials
ALTERNATIVE HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER
gkaren@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com
Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available. HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE
issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth
A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Only available online, but a great information source.
M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM (BBGV) 193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 6674 0945
HANOI OIS
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
NETBALL CLUB
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
The chamber of commerce for all things relating to the UK and British-born expats living in the capital. Puts on monthly networking events, gala dinners, fundraising events and much more.
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE
bbgv.org
CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229
ccifv.org
EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229
icham.org
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh
sbav-hanoi.org
M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA
23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.
TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE
M M M
LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP
VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS
44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151
CLUBS & SOCIETIES
XUNHASABA
AMERICAN CLUB
ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
EVENT SPACE
32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068
M M M BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790
amchamhanoi.com
AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994
auschamvn.org
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850 GOETHE INSTITUT GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE
58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251
goethe.de/hanoi
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115
thehanoiclub.com
hanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.
SKATESHOP
THREE TREES
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147
JEWELLERY
booskateshop.com
CHULA 43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho; 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 258960
chulafashion.com
The work of Spanish couple Laura and Diego, this homegrown Hanoi brand describes themselves as creating wearable art. Designing pieces that are trendy, elegant, Western and yet distinctly Asian, their shop and arts space focuses on lifestyle, with regular events and more. CONTRABAND
GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE
AIR ASIA airasia.com
15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725
M M M
AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn
COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.
AIRLINES
HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.
M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE
CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.
BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS
L’ATELIER WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES
33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.
9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in
SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com
Hanoi Essentials
several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
Tel: (04) 3928 5190
artvietnamgallery.com
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789
Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks.
Daloc.vn
DON’S TAY HO
MANZI
BICYCLE RENTALS
GALLERY & BAR / CAFE
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397
Stocks organic vegetables from Sapa, Soc Son and Dalat; seafood from Hai Phong and Quang Ninh; Norwegian salmon and highlands pork and beef. Also offers foreign spices and convenience store products from Japan and Thailand. Free delivery for any purchase above VND400,000.
CYCLING
Dons-bistro.com
facebook.com/manzihanoi
LINHMART 116, D4 Dormitory, Giang Vo, Ba Dinh (near Ha Noi Hotel) Tel: 0936 491136 or 0916 504548
linhmart.com
BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS
Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices.
70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941
NHA SAN COLLECTIVE
KITCHEN ART
GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS
KITCHENWARE
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316
38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770
GREEN BIKE CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST
15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES
34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS
THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156
thbc.vn
DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC
nhasanstudio.org
The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.
DENTAL CLINIC
VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM
3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434
NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM
australiandentalclinic.com PEACE DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC
2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286
peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com
Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
serenitydentalclinic.com
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.
GALLERIES ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
140 | Word July 2016 | wordvietnam.com
Hanoigourmet.com
kitchenart.vn L'S PLACE
A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487
LAN SALON Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190
HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC)
acc.vn/en
ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems. BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
NATURALLY VIETNAM
HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS
4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI
24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE
17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854 VEGGIE’S GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG
99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS
DA LOC
DINH HAIR SALON
WINE RETAILER
HAIR SALON
96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899
GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER
The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500
INDOCHINA PLAZA
241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596
LOTTE CENTER
54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016
lottecenter.com.vn PARKSON
bumrungrad.vn
Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666
JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH)
229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400
136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717
RED APRON 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337
SHOPPING MALLS
TOP-END SALON
3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911
M M M ANNAM GOURMET
48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907
GROCERY SHOP
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY
workroomfour.com
WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER
44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (4) 3265 6888
WINE RETAILER
DENTAL CLINIC
JUST.IN.M
6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009
Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts. WORK ROOM FOUR
162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366
CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS
naturallyvietnam.com
vnfam.vn
UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON
DELI / WINE SHOP
66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131
SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888
HANOI GOURMET
HAIR STREAM
parkson.com.vn PICO MALL
INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL 32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3715 3666
jieh.vn
JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards, the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany), and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss - Germany) for refractive surgery. Top-end customer service and a friendly, contemporary environment add to the mix.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are
SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214
TRANG TIEN PLAZA
cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999
VINCOM ROYAL CITY
72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550
used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service. FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL
55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880
hongngochospital.vn
INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL
12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231 VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370
insuranceinasia.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111
libertyinsurance.com.vn
REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488
M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435
bishanoi.com
A selective, independent, co-educational day school. Provides a British-style education following the
National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards. CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students.
for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2, Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818
ANH DUNG
HANOI RENTING
MOTORBIKE RENTALS
RENTALS
37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096
No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828
Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers.
PHUNG MOTORBIKE
kinderworld.net/sis
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims
MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS
MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS
106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464 MOTORBIKE RENTALS
13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105 VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS
17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.
PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS
6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6332
fair-realestate.com GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS
R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589
gialonghousing.com
hanoirenting.com
LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS
38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999
houseinhanoi.com
VIETLONG HOUSING RENTALS
21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203
vietlonghousing.com
M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves,
isvietnam.org
A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small. KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
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DAY TRIPPER: HANOI THO HA VILLAGE
Jesse Meadows heads to the countryside and encounters that part of Vietnamese culture we so often tend to forget; hospitality. At Tho Ha she experienced it in abundance
PHOTOS BY THEO LOWENSTEIN
W
hen searching for day trips, it’s easy to get bogged down in the lake/mountain destination combo. They’re everywhere around Hanoi (throw in a pagoda and you've got yourself a day trip). But I wanted to go somewhere different, so we set off for a small village on a peninsula in the Cau River called Tho Ha. It’s a straight shot north across the Chuong Duong Bridge, about 40 kilometres from the city. Once you reach the city of Bac Ninh, resist the strange octagonal fortress that you will very much want to explore (it’s a military college, and a man with a big gun will turn you away), and instead go left around it, towards the river. The city will give way to rice paddies and lotus ponds, and you’ll have to look hard down the alleys until you find one with a sign spray-painted on the bricks: Ben Do Van Tho Ha. Kick your bike into neutral and ride the brake down the steep ramp to the ferry dock. A mere VND3,000 will get you across the river to the village on the other side.
The Pagoda We made a friend on our ferry ride; a woman named My Phuong who had recently returned from Saigon to her hometown on
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the peninsula. She was happy to be back, she said, and was eager to show us her favourite place in town; the pagoda. We followed her straight off the ferry into the village, before she waved goodbye and disappeared into an alleyway. When we walked into the pagoda’s courtyard, we realised a funeral was under way. Villagers in bright white headbands sat in clusters around mats full of food. But instead of the sombre mood I’d expected, they were all smiling warmly. One group of women waved me over enthusiastically, filling a bowl of che for me. They laughed when I tried to eat it with chopsticks, and gave me a spoon. They fed us aggressively — all white foods, like bananas and sticky rice and popcorn. Some of the older women asked us to photograph them. One stood proudly beneath a statue of the Buddha, another smiled wide in the entrance. The kids, on the other hand, laughed hysterically and ran for cover every time we pointed a lens their way. We played photographic hide-and-seek with them for a while, until we got lost in the village’s narrow alleys. We happened upon one lane that was echoing with the snorts of pigs. Peering between bars on the windows, we found
massive sows, some the size of small horses. A curious one ambled over to sniff me out. I apologised to her for being locked up, and also for how good bun cha tastes, and she let me pet her snout.
Language Without Barriers On the walk back to our motorbikes, a woman waved us into her house for what appeared to be tea. She explained that it was in fact a drink called nuoc voi, and motioned that it would be good for our stomachs. It tasted like celery, but is apparently made from the leaves of a native Asian tree species with natural antibiotic properties. I’m sure she was explaining all of this to us while we sat around in her living room, smiling and nodding and feeling embarrassed that we didn’t know more Vietnamese. We all laughed together in misunderstanding. Lucky for us, smiles have no language barrier. As we waved goodbye to our new friends in Tho Ha, I realised that the only money we’d spent that day had been on the ferry ride. Not every adventure has to cost you. The best travel experiences are simple. Like nature restores the soul, so does the kindness that you find in the countryside.
Getting There Take the Chuong Duong Bridge north to Long Bien. Drive straight to Bac Ninh City. Take the main highway (TL286) to the left around the military fortress. Follow this road towards the river until it turns into Duong De. There will be a small alley to your right that leads to the ferry dock.
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THE ALCHEMIST BLANKET STATEMENT
I
was speaking recently with the mother of a toddler and I reflected afterwards on the description she gave of her child’s need for her comfort object, in this case a stuffed bunny. I wondered what takes place of those comfort objects — blankets, bunnies, bears — as we grow into adulthood. As the image of security blankets tucked away in people’s briefcases dissipated from my mind, I pondered our need as adults to have healthy ways of feeling emotionally secure.
that create feelings of emotional insecurity. These feelings can infest our mind with a false representation of our true nature. The creator of the Mindfulness-Based Stress Reduction programme, Jon KabatZinn, feels “we just need little reminders from time to time that we are already dignified, deserving, worthy.” Although our past wounds and scars can sometimes make it difficult to ‘feel the love’, the following are a few tips that can help one regain their emotional security.
Perceived Threat
Allow yourself to be you, pure and simple. Trying to mould yourself to what you feel others expect you to be will only cause stress and anxiety as you try to maintain the false illusion.
Our insecurities do not magically disappear once we cast aside our childhood comfort object. For children, having a comfort object allows them to test their independence and build their selfconfidence. As we go through life, we are presented with situations that can threaten our sense of security. In the absence of any actual threat, however, it is often our own lack of self-confidence and self-worthiness
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True Essence
Nobody’s Perfect Let go of perfection. Your push to achieve a certain standard may not be serving you and can result in undue emotional and physical stress.
BY KAREN GAY
Expect the Unexpected When life throws you a curve ball, it is best to step back and look for the opportunity for growth in what has been presented. How we react to life’s challenges can greatly affect our sense of emotional security.
Comic Relief Just as children use comfort objects to help nurture their emotional security, adults can employ a variety of tools to help them do the same. As one author queried, are you a Charlie Brown or a Linus? Given that psychological analysis considers Linus the “brightest” character of the comic strip Peanuts, we might want to tuck that security blanket in our briefcase after all. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com
Hanoi
office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam. JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
Essentials
AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762
agsfourwinds.com
A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.
MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE
5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
STUDIO FIVE
With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.
VIETCLIMB
santaferelo.com
YOGA & WELLNESS
5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515
studio5.vn
with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym
SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147
bosua.vn
HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757
hanoisport.vn
ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉ YOGA & NUTRITION
247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel: 0904 356 561
zenithyogavietnam.com
The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast variety of classes and levels in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa, Ashtanga and Pilates while also offering Restorative, Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga, Meditation sessions, and Kundalini classes. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, clothes and yoga props, as well as a café serving up the homemade vegetarian meals, cakes and coffee.
MMM SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185
BOO SKATESHOP
SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
score-tech.net
Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.
UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING
ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS
19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6273 3095
13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305
umove.com.vn
SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem
bigc.vn CITIMART Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999
FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617
PHOTO BY VU HA KIM VY
metro.com.vn
THE THERAPIST AN ANGER PROBLEM
Dear Douglas, My wife tells me I have a problem with anger and I tell her that, if she didn’t make me angry so often, I wouldn’t have an anger problem. I do regret the amount of yelling I do when I am upset, but it seems it is the only way to have her listen to me. She said that she is now afraid of me after I smashed a chair and broke some dishes last week in a fit of anger. It feels like she knows how to push my buttons and will not back off to the point where I feel like I am going to explode. Is it her or is it me? What should I do? I am afraid that our young daughter will be affected by these situations if we don’t find a way to make it stop. I want to go to couples’ counselling because we are both part of the problem, but she says that I am the one with the problem and should seek therapy for my anger. What should I do? — Too Often Heated Dear Heated, Yes, you have an anger problem and you are the only one who can do something about it. That is not to say that that she is without responsibility for the poor communication, but it is to say that you have to start with yourself. I am glad that you have presented this situation for some ideas and perspective. Many people struggle with strong emotions like anger, and the destructive consequences of doing things that they regret later. It is important to face the reality of what is not working in your life and to do things that can change them. It starts with a basic premise; that we are responsible for our actions, which
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includes all the things we say and do. It means that being extremely angry does not justify behaviour that we find regrettable, that hurts others or is destructive. Anger is a normal and helpful emotion that tells us something is unfair or not right in the world around us. It is when the intensity of the anger starts to control us that we find ourselves in trouble. Anger is not the problem — intensity is the problem. It is our responsibility to regulate our emotions, something you have not yet learned to do. It is common for people to believe that something outside ourselves can make us feel the intense way we do. We quickly shift from knowing an effective way of responding to a situation that is angerproducing, to a state of reaction fuelled by anger and the need to control the situation. Healthy levels of anger help us understand that something is wrong or unfair; they enable us to use effective assertiveness to see the problem through to a solution. Unhealthy anger seeks to control the situation, and often another person with aggression, creating fear and intimidation as a method of functioning. It creates a new problem, which is, now that I am this angry and feel out of control, how do I get out of this feeling? It creates its own escalation, often with regrettable consequences. Two things are important to understand. The first is that most people have a storehouse of anger in reserve. These are unresolved feelings that are associated with past feelings of victimization or frustration. Many people are already angry when they are triggered by something in a particular situation. It means that intense anger
BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA
happens more quickly, because the old anger is ignited as well. Part of doing therapy is to discover the ways that a person has built a storehouse of anger, and most of the time the reasons make a lot of sense. We have to learn how to offload some of that old anger and the stories that go with it in order to create a calmer baseline from which we live. The second important thing is that anger is associated with power. It is a false kind of power that comes from creating fear and intimidation, but it can feel good in the short run to dominate a situation and get one’s way through this method. The problem is that people can become dependent on this kind of power and that it has a diminishing strength. People tend to avoid those who bully them through angry outbursts. It is always the short-term solution at the expense of the long-term connection we would want with others. It is important that you develop a way to avoid being triggered by your wife and set boundaries that help you to keep from escalating. I recommend that you seek help to understand your own anger and to learn how to regulate the intensity that takes over your rational self. It might be a first step towards understanding what is going on between you and your wife, a relationship which might also benefit from couples’ counselling. I wish you well, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed
Hanoi On the Town
BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR
23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.
EDEN HANOI
MADAKE
SIDEWALK HANOI
THE UNICORN BAR
OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE
BAR & EVENT SPACE
DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE
COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE
End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
facebook.com/edengargen
When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list. ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE
88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.
ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar.
FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT
25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.
BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI
15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix. BARBETTA ARTSY BAR & CAFE
34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat. CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR
73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970
cama-atk.com
With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE
27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170
facebook.com/hrc.hanoi
Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088 LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT
284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993
facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi
Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen, especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.
81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665
facebook.com/madakehanoi
With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint. MAO’S RED LOUNGE LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR
7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers. PHUC TAN LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR
51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places. POLITE PUB LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches. RED RIVER TEA ROOM LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE
25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room
Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly. ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR
61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087
facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.
199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi
A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty. SPY BAR HOLE IN THE WALL
12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for. TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE
24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space. THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB
Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333
facebook.com/Nest. Lounge.09XuanDieu
The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats. It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas. The views here are pretty eye-catching, too. THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR
7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116
republic.vn
A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace. THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901
therooftop.vn
The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience.
2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. Now, as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL
114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi. VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL
2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922
vuvuzela.com.vn
When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.
CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. They also do coffee. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE
28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee
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BAR STOOL BIRDCAGE
PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
B
irdCage is probably one of the most unusual late-night spots in Hanoi. In order to get there you have to turn into a small dirt road off Au Co, and drive down a field. You’ll all of a sudden see the lights and hear the music. There is a curtain of vines that you walk through before entering the bar, that with its off-the-beaten-path location, really makes it feel like you’ve discovered a hidden gem. When you walk in, you’ll notice a good mix of expats and locals sitting on old bike seats, which have been recycled into bar stools. There’s a foosball table, and people dancing to a live DJ in the back. On the right night, you can see some folks relaxing in the pool. The people behind Sidewalk decided to open a new location for revellers who weren’t quite ready to call it a night. They have maintained their eco-friendly style by using recycled pieces all over the bar, from car doors as bathroom doors, to wheels as tables, and, yes, there is a large birdcage.
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They are currently open Fridays and Saturdays but they are looking to change that. “We want to open on Sunday afternoons, because we have a wet and dry sauna too. We want to make this a place where people can come and unwind after the weekend,” says Huong Lan, one of the owners. I would describe Birdcage as a getaway with cocktails by day, and club with a pool by night. The particular location also allows them to throw foam parties, and other water-themed parties, to cool off during the summer.
Non-Judgemental The name was inspired the 1990s comedy starring the late Robin Williams and Nathan Lane. “When I saw that movie, I thought, that is what I want. I want to open a place that is non-judgmental. You can be whatever you want here,” says Mao Luong, another owner. That idea is carried into one of the walls of the bathroom, where there are framed
pictures of fierce women, men and gender non-conforming individuals. The drinks are pretty standard beers starting at (VND30,000); cocktails like a Long Island or a Black or White Russian will run you VND90,000. They also sell mixers, shots, cigarettes and balloons. It’s incredible how just a short drive from a bustling street, you can instantly get a sense of tranquillity, driving through a field. It is also kind of cool to feel like you are going to a secret club that no tourist knows about. The night I was there, the DJ was playing some sort of electronic flute. Everyone was dancing having a great time, it was definitely a friendly vibe. If, like me, you don’t like to drink and drive, the staff will help get you a cab at the end of your night, if there isn’t one already waiting outside. — Eduardo Coulbeaux BirdCage is at 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Turn into the alley and at the first junction make a right. You can find them online at facebook. com/birdcagehanoi
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COFFEE CUP ALWAYS HARRY POTTER
O
n the edge of the Old Quarter lies a small café that has the power the teleport your mind to Hogwarts. The walls are lined with fake Harry Potter newspapers and butter beer signs; flying brooms hang from the ceiling. You don’t have to be a Potterhead (as serious Harry Potter fans call themselves) to enjoy all the quirkiness and photo opportunities scattered throughout the café. If you’ve been searching for your magic wand, medallion or tie affiliating you to a certain Hogwarts School of Wizardly, Always café has several Harry Potter memorabilia up for sale. The café is a project of love by Harry Potter fan Thiet Hoang Van. “It can be very difficult for Vietnamese people to travel to London or Canada, where other Harry Potter cafes exist,” he says. “I wanted to give Vietnamese people an opportunity to experience it in Hanoi.”
The Fare His friends and family helped him put together the café, which has now been open
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PHOTOS BY BORIS LOPATIN
for five months, the culmination of a dream he had ever since finishing the last book. “I fell in love with the books because I felt they reflected what I was going through in life. I also liked that it wasn’t about skin colour or war. The books are about peace and adventure,” says Van. Aside from the standard coffee, tea and fruit juices, Always Café offers five Harry Potter drink specials, such as butter beer — a mix of cream soda and butter cream served in a frosty mug with whipped cream and cashews on top. There is a Felix Felicis club soda, with blue curacao, strawberry and spicy syrup and an Amoretentia club soda with strawberry, lemon syrup and red wine, all starting at VND40,000. If you are feeling hungry they also sell spaghetti Bolognese for VND38,000 and cheesy French fries for VND35,000.
Once a Potter, Always a Potter Always Café also throws monthly Harry Potter themed parties, where you can even win a sweater by downing seven butter beers. They also sometimes team up with fanatics from Ho Chi Minh City for large cosplay
events. You can keep up with the Potterheads on Always Café’s Facebook page. Van is excited about the future, as an upcoming spinoff from the Harry Potter series titled Fantastic Beats and Where to Find Them will hit theatres this November. He is certain that will drum up some business, but it is not just about the new stuff coming out. “The novels don’t die,” he says. “I want to give young kids that may have never read the books an opportunity to fall in love with Harry Potter the way I did.” If you have never read the books, the entire collection is available both in long book form and short comic-book variations in the back. They are mostly in Vietnamese but you can find a couple of titles in English. If you are more into vampires or werewolves, Twilight is also available. The café is open daily from 10am to 10pm. “We tend to be busiest on the weekends with mostly teenagers,” says Khanh Ha, a waitress at the café. — Eduardo Culbeaux If you feel like channeling your inner wizard head on over 8B Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. If you are lucky you may even run into Vietnam’s very own Harry Potter
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Hanoi On the Town
and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
congcaphe.com
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE
89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. DUY TRI
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
and pan-Asian mains.
With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam.
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
highlandscoffee.com.vn
JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY
22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE
252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt.
HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night. SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times. TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR
VIETNAMESE CAFÉ
43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.
PUKU
MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397
Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.
Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.
MAISON DE TET DÉCOR
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
LIFESTYLE CAFE
CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub
facebook.com/manzihanoi
COURTYARD CAFE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea. HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE
2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
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36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722 On-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occasional farmers’ markets.
6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117
A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.
MOC CAFE
YOLO
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western
32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh
facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops
Boasting an abundance of communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly
quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. Open 24 hours. ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN
247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561
zenithyogavietnam.com
A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.
EAT AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com AMATO
TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE
1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01227 367470 Located next to Binh Minh Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion tapas bar by night and a French restaurant during the day. Tiny, hip and yet surprisingly spacious, Amato offers an international dining and drinking experience in the heart of Hanoi.
AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.
ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment.
CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER
4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6292 1044
chopsvietnam.com
Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint, and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served up with locally brewed craft beer, and this one’s a bit of a winner. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098
facebook.com/cousins.hanoi
A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available. DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831
daluva.com
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959
foodshop45.com
Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. FRENCH GRILL
up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE
facebook.com/frenchgrill
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving
An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list. JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World.
NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.
TOP-END GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588
alfrescogroup.com
J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered. JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR
59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. KY Y
labadiane-hanoi.com
On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.
namese-French fusion cuisine. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET
Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN
LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO
44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays.
36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968
linguinifini.com/en/hanoi
With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas. LUNA D’AUTUNNO
LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509
MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN
23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven. MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.
CLASSIC ITALIAN
LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950
lasalsa-hanoi.com
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338
lunadautunno.vn
This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list.
JAPANESE RICE EATERY
166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors.
dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.
LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317
PAN-CHINESE
Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Viet-
fortuna.vn
verticale-hanoi.com
MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH
11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
cafe-des-arts.com
A contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini. Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board.
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
MOOSE AND ROO
Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus,
42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT
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TOP EATS HANOI TACO BAR
T
hanks to Hanoi Taco Bar (6 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem), the city now has a place focused on the unusual double act of tacos and cocktails. The brainchild of founders Leo Smith, Will Reeve and Charles Jeammot, Hanoi Taco Bar (HTB) is situated in a bustling Old Quarter street in the heart of Hoan Kiem. Almost every aspect of HTB is an exercise in fusion, matching complementing flavours, ingredients and traditions. Charles, the master of the kitchen, was impressed by the similarities between Vietnamese dishes and some of the Mexican food he was familiar
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with back in his most recent home of San Francisco. These similarities paved the way for a marriage of cuisines I haven’t before experienced to quite such a successful level in Hanoi.
Culinary Coalescence At its most fundamental, the fusion part of HTB is evidenced on the food menu. That most quintessential of Hanoi dishes, bun cha, is reimagined as a filling for the delicious bun cha taco (VND45,000). Pork meatballs nestled into a soft shell taco are kept company by locally sourced herbs and with
a satisfying crunch courtesy of the fried bun noodles heaped on top. For a totally different cluster of flavours, I recommend trying the ceviche (VND55,000/100,000 for a cup/bowl). There’s a cutting acidity from the bitter juice of lime and kumquat, which is subdued by the natural sugars in the pineapple-based tropical salsa. The softness of the raw red snapper fish contrasts beautifully with the firm crunch of the jicama, a kind of sweet Mexican turnip. A journey around most of Hanoi’s districts can confirm the popularity of the humble
PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
corn on the cob, with roadside vendors grilling them as popular snacks. In HTB, even the corn (VND45,000) receives the fusion treatment, served with goat’s cheese, smoked avocado and a chilli and citrus salt. The butter is also touched by Charles’ innovative approach to cooking — he prepares carotene butter, for which the whey is skimmed away before combining the butter with the purest essence of carrot.
El Diablo’s in the Details Each dish comes with an enthusiastic cocktail recommendation from Leo,
the resident mixologist and champion of attention to detail. The ceviche, for example, is best paired with the Tommy’s Margarita (VND120,000) due to the agave nectar and lime juice complementing the dish’s natural acidity. Similarly, the divine churros with chilli chocolate and tequila caramel (VND55,000) match well with the horchata cocktail (VND100,000), a light and sweet affair comprising rice water, coconut milk, vanilla and cinnamon. For me, however, beating the Old Fashioned (VND180,000) takes some doing, spruced up as it is by Regan’s orange bitters and
maraschino cherries. In a world where restaurants and chefs fight over the right to label their food authentic or traditional, Hanoi Taco Bar is a celebration in why that is an exercise in futility. The innate snobbery of those who claim to ‘know’ Mexican food would be best left at the door, because the abundance of quality and passion for creating exciting fusion cuisine and cocktails awaiting inside will blow anyone away. — Edward Dalton Hanoi Taco Bar is located at 6 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 11am to 11pm
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MEDICAL BUFF LOSE THAT FEAR OF BEING WRONG
T
he biggest challenge to being a GP is sometimes meeting patients who aren’t actually ill, but really need more emotional help. It can be like deciphering a mental puzzle with no clues. One morning a few weeks ago, a young Caucasian female traveller arrived at the clinic. She was in her twenties, was travelling through Asia with her friends, and had arrived from Thailand a few days before. The consultation started as she was concerned as she’d had diarrhoea for three days with lower abdominal pain. The session started with the taking of her medical history asking relevant questions, followed by a physical examination. My check found nothing wrong with her abdomen, so I started asking life questions which I hoped would bring me to a reason for the visit or, even better, a diagnosis. Unfortunately all my suggestions and offers of support were met with a road block; but there was an urgency about her as she would be travelling the next day and kept asking for assurance as to the correct way to proceed. I learnt she was taking anti-malarial tablets which could have caused the abdominal pains and also the anxiety; but she didn’t want to stop taking those as she might catch malaria. I
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offered supportive medicine but this was met by panic because now she was taking too many tablets.
To and Fro Some patients don’t want to take medicines — but they don’t want to tell you that. I tried to understand her attitude towards medication; she didn’t want to take medications, and didn’t really understand that taking one pill wouldn’t give her the desired effect. I tried to get a sense of her medication philosophy so I could work with the individual to motivate her in the best way. She then continued to open up and explained about the other antibiotic tablets she was taking — one packet already expired. The quality of the food at the hotel was worrying her, and bottled water scared her. Which was the correct brand to drink? Which were the best convenience stores? She was concerned about staying too long talking to me as her friends were getting ready to leave and she was scared to be left on her own. Seeing her opening up with her problems made me realise she may have needed additional support. This wasn’t going to be a short consult and I went on to explain to the patient she was an adult and travelling on your own opens
BY DR RORY KEITH FERNANDEZ SO
you up to personal risk. I explained she was clearly brave enough to start the journey and needed to remain strong. The clinic was here for her if she became too anxious but she should take the opportunity to enjoy Hanoi. She relaxed a little and went on to explain she wasn’t usually like this but feeling unwell had left her with low confidence.
Habitual Stress Somebody who is under high stress may not be controlling their medications; they may not be taking time to pay attention to their diet and lifestyle and may not have time for exercise. They may fall into bad habits. A lot of people turn to alcohol or eat too much junk food. Plus, the body responds to stress in different ways. Medical doctors now offer a more integrated service; the solution here was building the relationship, having the conversation, seeing what the competing agendas were, and providing the support to the patient. Travelling and being out of your comfort zone is difficult, but remember there is always someone ready to listen. Dr Rory Keith Fernandez So is a general practitioner at Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For more info click on vietnammedicalpractice.com
Hanoi On the Town
changing imagery on the walls. MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL
The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470
mooseandroo.com
There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides. Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town. NAMASTE HANOI
PANE E VINO
THE KAFE
PAN-ITALIAN
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE
facebook.com/panevinoHN
thekafe.vn
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner. PIZZA 4P’S
namastehanoi.com
The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it. NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier.
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337
hanoixua.vn/en
Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout.
WANNAWAFFLE WAFFLES
VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK
20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO
67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA
1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) COM RANG DUA BO
pizza4ps.com
MIXED GLASS NOODLES
POTS ‘N PANS
Waffles, but not as you know it. Here it’s about taking this humble dish and recreating it in a contemporary environment in as many ways as is humanly possible. Ever had a matcha waffle? What about a waffle stuffed with cream cheese and smoked salmon? How about a banoffee pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaffle serves up all these creations and much more. WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718
PHO CUON HUNG BEN
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444 Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local ingredients.
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ
OLD HANOI
Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.
BIT TET NGON SO 5
27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem; 138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; Unit 108, Indochina Plaza, 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay
JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400
18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245
25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem
8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
thecartfood.com
Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.
facebook.com/wannawaffle
57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da MIEN TRON HANH 7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES
54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO
48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem
PHO CUON
26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City. ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN
247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561
zenithyogavietnam.com/zenith-cafe
A vegetarian and vegan café connected to Zenith Yoga that respects yoga philosophy. Simple living, mindful thinking and 100 percent natural ingredients, all the food here is served up without additional additives or MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. All dishes are made in house.
STREETFOOD
PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA
7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA
1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO
49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO
10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO
13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO
5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem
3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM
18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
PHO TU LUN PHO BO
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem BANH CUON HANG GA BANH CUON
14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem
XOI HANG HOM STICKY RICE
44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem BANH DA TRON BANH DA TRON
6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho BANH MI 25 STREETSIDE BANH MI
A WORLD
OF
MIND POWER
B
y the time you read this, another graduation will have been celebrated at KOTO. This year three classes of young men and women proudly walked across the stage as they received their certificates, the triumphant culmination in their two-year journey with KOTO. If you’re not familiar, KOTO provides vocational hospitality training to youth who come from highly disadvantaged circumstances. Their backgrounds are very different, but each must overcome huge hurdles in order to transform their lives. I can guarantee you there isn’t a dry eye in the house when those kids finally get up on stage as graduates. The economic arguments in favour of education are staggering and for women and girls in particular it is a critical area of empowerment. An educated woman is more likely to marry at a later age and have fewer children. Under-five mortality rates are lower for these women as well. A girl’s income will increase from 10 to 25 percent for every year of schooling she receives. In turn, if she has children, she is more than twice as likely to educate her children.
Struggling But the obstacles to education remain and they can seem intractable. Over 500 million women around the world have never learnt to read or write and half of those same women were married before the age of 15. Their daughters will very likely face the same dismal future. One of the reasons for this illiteracy is that for deeply struggling
158 | Word July 2016 | wordvietnam.com
families, putting a child in school not only takes away a potential income earner but the cost of doing so — uniforms, school books, fees — are simply too high a cost to bear. Culturally, a premium is placed on education in Vietnam. There is a centralised curriculum and standardised teacher training which also contributes to Vietnam’s high literacy rate (94.5%). Notwithstanding the complaints about education by rote, the challenges faced by universities with a lack of postsecondary teaching staff, and student enrollment demand outstripping supply, the point here is to acknowledge the general support for unisex education. As I watched the KOTO graduates on stage, I thought of the obstacles in Vietnam. While education is mandatory for the first nine years, a too-large portion of youth here are still not in employment, education or training (NEET). Statistically youth (age 15 to 24) make up about 20 percent of the population, but a disproportionate number of unemployed — nearly half of all the unemployed in Vietnam, says the International Labour Organization (ILO). In other words, a youth is three times more likely to be unemployed than an adult.
Vulnerable Add to that another four million youth in vulnerable employment, meaning these youth work in “low-productivity jobs with meager income, poor working conditions and lack of social protection,” according to the ILO. These are the shoeshine boys and the trinket-selling girls. This is the
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
intersection between under-engaged youth and skills shortages among those living in poverty, creating interlocking barriers that affect kids long before they reach legal working age. Steps in the right direction include increasing parents and caregivers’ participation in developing curriculum and managing their kids’ education. A commitment to building basic schools, closer to communities with more women teachers would increase enrollments in economically vulnerable locations. Paying attention to basic water and sanitation facilities at those schools with flexible timetables will also keep girls in school for longer. Communities can look at partnering with local government agencies or nonprofits to create scholarships and bursaries to assist families who have lost a young income earner or household labourer. I know that the KOTO graduates (and others like them in similar programmes around the world) won’t find themselves in the circumstances that they were in before they joined the programme because besides that piece of paper they earned, they also now have hope and renewed self-confidence. My favourite superhero, Malala Yousafzai, the schoolgirl shot in the head four years ago by the Taliban in Pakistan agrees. “Let us pick up our books and pens,” she has told UN audiences. “They are our most powerful weapons.” Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an award-winning nonprofit social enterprise providing vocational training for at-risk youth
BOOK BUFF THE DEAD AUTHORS’ SOCIETY
T
here was once a celebrated Society for Dead Poets. In my opinion, many authors who have died in the past 12 months should also be celebrated. So here goes. Readers of racy romances may miss Jackie Collins who had 32 books to her credit and ended up just as famous as her enhanced sister Joan. Crime fiction lovers will miss Ruth Rendell and her Inspector Wexford. She wrote 60 novels, some under the pen name Barbara Vine. They’ll also miss Henning Mankell and his 11 tales involving Inspector Kurt Wallender. Science fiction fans will mourn the end of Terry Pratchett’s ‘Disc World’ Series, which comprised 40 of his 70 books. In the general fiction category, of Colleen McCulloch’s 25 novels, Vietnamese readers will remember the Thorn Birds from its 1990s serialization on local TV, and a host are familiar with the Mocking Bird of Harper Lee.
On a Tin Drum The name of Nobel Literature Prize winner Gunter Grass will always be synonymous with his 1959 opus The Tin Drum which, like a lot of his fiction explored memories from his childhood city of Danzig (Gdansk), Poland, especially motifs about the horror of war and genocide. When awarding him the Nobel Prize the committee wrote that: “In his excavation of the past, Günter Grass goes deeper than most and he unearths the intertwined roots of good and evil.” The Tin Drum broke away from realism by having as its main character Oskar — a dwarf, but a peculiar one — his 80cm height was the result of his own decision, at age three, to stop growing. Oskar’s intelligence is fully developed, but he pretends to be an idiot, blabbering like a child and avoiding all adult responsibility and controlling
events by beating his infernal tin drum. The novel, narrated by Oskar from the confines of a lunatic asylum after World War II, mixes ingredients of German folklore with the grotesque, and investigates the development of the German psyche from 1900 through the Second World War and concludes when Oskar resumes life as an adult hunchback at the beginning of the German reconstruction. It is set in Danzig and Dusseldorf and follows the fortunes of Oskar and his family during the rise and fall of Nazism. The novel was intended, in part, to raise issues for contemporary Germans about the extent to which they were complicit in, and responsible for, Nazi war crimes. In 2006 Grass confounded all his admirers by writing about when he was 15 in 1943 when he volunteered for military service and ended up in the notorious Waffen SS. Grass said he had no excuses for his choices but admitted that as a youngster he may have been over-excited about belonging to such an elite group.
By Any Other Name As one of his obituarists noted, Umberto Eco had the unique ability to be able to flatter the average reader’s intellect with historical whodunits. In his first novel The Name of the Rose, Eco transplanted a Sherlock Holmes-style detective murder mystery to 14th century medieval Italy and made the monk detective, William of Baskerville, a household name for readers in 30 languages. William and Adso, his young apprentice, searched through the library maze of a famous abbey to unravel a series of seven murders, all the while endeavouring to put off the hounds of the Inquisition who were panting to burn heretics and witches at the stake. Eco was a post-modern theorist and the
BY HOANG VAN TRUONG
novel is a post-modern tract in that it does not offer a conclusive denouement but its Aristotelian quest for truth through clues hidden in illuminated scrolls set the pattern for future blockbusters — notably Dan Brown and his Da Vinci code. Apparently William Weaver, who translated the novel from its origin Italian into English, made enough money in royalties to add a wing to his house in Tuscany that he called his Eco Chamber. Eco’s other six novels traverse around biblical analysis, semiotics and detective mystery and his second last, The Prague Cemetery, another bestseller, features a secret agent tracing the rise of anti-Semitism in modern Europe.
The Lure of the Big Apple Just about all of E. L. Doctorow’s 12 novels are historical tales set in New York. Three won major literary awards. His first to hit the big time, in 1975, was Ragtime which chronicles the lives of three families in early 20th century New York. Three stories of three families are started as separate entities and are gradually threaded together to dramatically capture the spirit of the city between 1906 and 1915. The separate families comprise rich white people, blacks from Harlem, and immigrant Jews, and through them and their interactions, Doctorow examines the divergent forces that converged with wonder as well as terror, at a time in the melting pot when everything seemed possible. The major theme is that the American story is not singular. It is a rich and varied combination of cultural experiences and will continue to be so. Truong is an avid reader and runs Bookworm (44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi). For more information on go to bookwormhanoi.com
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Day Tripper: HCMC / Body and Temple / Bar Stool / Top Eats / Know Your City Photo by Rodney Hughes
162 | Word July 2016 | wordvietnam.com
HCMC Essentials
BAKERIES
M M M BOOKSHOPS
ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ
223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1
phamngulao.abcbakery.co
Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available. BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY
106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7
breadtalkvietnam.com
A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting. HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY
harvestbaking.net
With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details. L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE
Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS
FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1
fahasa.com
Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts. LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
pnc.com.vn
Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.
M M M BUSINESS GROUPS
BAKERY & CAFE
180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
touslesjoursbakery.com
The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam. VOELKER BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.
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merce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
amchamvietnam.com
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430
bbgv.org
CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Com-
NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE
LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING
37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories. L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles. MANDARINA TAILOR-MADE SHOES
171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267
LEATHER & JEWELLERY
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394
anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm
This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers. BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084
ORANGE
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES
77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
HUNG VUONG PLAZA
126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
BUDGET CLOTHING
152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620
9am to 10pm PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556
triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
GINKGO
SHOPPING MALLS
80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.
CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM, corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts from international brands like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix,
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics
VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
Ungaro and more. Also do event management services.
COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com
The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days. SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946
atc-craft.com
AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS
42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com
This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. CHI LAI
VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach
and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories. EM EM SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES
51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS
35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459
8am to 8pm
MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115
nhaxinh.com
REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn
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DAY TRIPPER: HCMC TAN LAP FLOATING VILLAGE
Vu Ha Kim Vy heads out of town to one of the few primary mangrove forests left in the Mekong Delta
PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY
W
hat I saw in online photos of Tan Lap turned out to be completely different from the actual reality. Instead of the sense of romance expressed through pre-wedding photos, I found the place to be wicked and strange with two main colours; green from the mangrove trees and grey from the mud under my feet. Tan Lap floating village is located in Moc Hoa commune of Long An, more than 100km away from the heart of Saigon. There are many ways to get there as long as your 3G Google Map works well. Thanks to Vinaphone’s 3G, I ended up getting lost and had to board a small local ferry to get to Tan Lap. “You will see Tan Lap when you see the buffalos,” said a passer-by. The buffalos were actually statues placed at the welcome gate of the village. My eyes searched for the views I got from the internet, but I couldn’t see anything familiar. There was an array of stilt houses on the left, with what looked like part of an abandoned amusement park on the other side.
It’s a Forest When I travelled there last month, the waterway was not as splendid as many people had described, with lotus plants and water lilies. According to the boat driver,
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there are two watchtowers in the village and you know you have arrived when you see the first 38-metre-high watchtower. Wearing a backpack containing my cameras, two bottles of water and other personal stuff, I set off up the tower. I had to stop for a while to take some deep breaths at the top. A large green velvet carpet of mangrove trees stretched to the skyline; suddenly I realised I was in a jungle. I looked at the other watchtower standing among golden sunlight, blue sky and green trees. The 100km drive and 38-metre climb had been worth the time and energy. Leaving the watchtower to the other visitors, I followed the concrete path into the mangrove. A shiver went down my spine as the stillness and green-grey ambience began to engulf me, reminding me of a horror movie. There were some sections here without sunlight, so I pulled my hoodie out of the backpack and put it on. According to the manager, who gave me a bottle of water and a cap (included with the ticket price of VND50,000 per person), the concrete path is a 5km-long trail in the shape of a butterfly and getting lost is impossible. Following the path, I got to a bridge which crossed a small creek, with a handmade wooden dock next to it. I guessed it was there to serve people who wanted to take a
shortcut to the other side of the forest. If so, they were out of luck, as there were no boats and nobody around. Just me and the forest.
An Unfinished Project For some reason, that was all that Tan Lap had. There were no services such as food, accommodation or other entertainment. I was told that it’s more fun if you go during the rainy season, as you can travel in boats to visit the forest with lotus flowers and water lilies in bloom. However, you have to call the place in advance to check conditions. I decided to ask the manager for some information. “Oh, we gave out all the brochures already. We’re printing some more. But you can ask me anything about this place,” the manager replied. “There will be more investment in the future. We will build restaurants and hotels and have more staff later this year. And we might collaborate with other nearby tourist attractions to organise well-designed trips.” I left Tan Lap searching for a late lunch and wondering whether I would ever go back. Maybe in the next two years, I said to myself. The question is with the arrival of tourist amenities, will Tan Lap remain the same? Or will it be transformed into another concrete and artificial destination so typical to Vietnam.
Getting There From Ben Thanh Market go to Le Lai then turn left onto Nguyen Thai Hoc, and turn right onto the East-West Highway, Vo Van Kiet. Turn left to QL1A (Highway 1A), then turn right to CT 01, turn left at the intersection with QL62 and keep following QL62 until you see the buffalos. Entrance is VND50,000 per person, but if you go by yourself, you will have to pay at least VND200,000 for the boat to take you to the forest. Best to go in groups of four or eight.
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BODY
AND
TEMPLE
WHAT IS THE BEST EXERCISE?
BY PHIL KELLY
T
he conventional approach to getting fit (joining a gym or plodding along on the pavement) is failing us. About 70% of the western adult population is overweight and over 30% are classified as obese. Vietnam, like most of the world, is beginning to follow in these unhealthy footsteps. Who enjoys going to the gym? Very few. In the West, about 12% of the population have gym memberships and only about 10% of them attend regularly. In fact, The International Health Club Association reports that “50% of all new health club members quit within the first six months of signing up and 90% of those who join health and fitness clubs will stop going regularly within the first three months.” We are now seven months into 2016… how’s your exercise routine going? The common strategy when individuals want to get fit, is to join a gym. Many government agencies vigorously promote joining fitness clubs. This leads me to the question of: What is the best exercise? What is promoted as the best exercise? Depending on who you ask you’ll get a number of different answers. Some will say the squat, or maybe the deadlift, perhaps sprinting up hill or, according to Rich Froning, a top CrossFit athlete, it’s the barbell thruster (squat with an overhead press). Do these fill you with motivation to get active and fit? It seems that there is a fundamental flaw in how we think when it comes to activity and fitness.
Failing Grade There also seems the be a major failing in how conventional fitness facilities service their members — losing 90% of your clientele within 90 days of meeting them is shocking. These statistics clearly show that there is something seriously wrong with the way in which people view getting fit and the services provided by the majority of conventional gyms; the two aspects obviously do not align. My answer to the question is simple. The best exercise is the one you will do consistently and regularly. Here is where I wait for the eye-rolling, scoffing and smirks to stop. I know it’s cheesy, but it happens to be true. I could tell you that this exercise, done this way, is better than that exercise or done another way. But what’s the point of discussing the finer aspects of
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“Adherence is the most important factor in the effectiveness of a fitness regime”
exercises or ways of completing activities if you don’t do them? The challenge is to find something that you enjoy and compels you to participate. The simple fact is that adherence is the most important factor in the effectiveness of a fitness regime. However, with this in mind I do believe play is the best type of exercise, as it compels people to take part. I classify “play” as an activity that you enjoy and actively want to participate in. As we get older we tend to forget the art of play. Stuart Brown, a leading psychologist who has proven that play continually shapes the human brain throughout our lifetime and calls play a “profound biological process”, suggests that this should be the main type of exercise promoted.
Only Connect A world-leading health and fitness professional, Mark Sisson, states that “when we embrace play, we claim a better quality of life for ourselves. We decrease stress. We connect better with those around us. We get out more and get
more out of what we do. We find more fun and maybe even meaning.” There are many benefits to play, and this is prompting a change in how some cities are dealing with the health issues related to inactively. The New York City Council is building adult playgrounds for their citizens to play on in an effort to get people active. Dr David Ludwig, a Harvard Medical School professor, who directs the Obesity Prevention Centre at Boston Children’s Hospital comments: “The point is to make physical activity fun, easy and accessible, so it’s the normal thing to do.” The simple fact is the best exercise is something you’ll do on a regular basis… becoming the normal thing to do. How we approach and think about fitness as a society needs to be adjusted to focus on social aspects, to drive adherence and make people remember how fun it is to move your body. What activities do you enjoy? Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763, at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
HCMC Essentials
CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development. JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM
384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3
jett-cycles.com
The showroom home of Jett Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114
xedapcaocap.com
Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs.
ELITE DENTAL GROUP. 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 3737
info@elitedental.com.vn elitedental.com.vn
Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics. Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available. MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
THE BIKE SHOP
199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405
thebikeshopvn.com
The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories. Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals. Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.
M M M DENTAL CLINICS
STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6282 8822
starlightdental.net
Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.
ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 Thao Dien Clinic, 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, Q.2, Tel: (08) 35 191 777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.
wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 169
HCMC Essentials
MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS
Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100
maplehealthcare.net
Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.
M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. Now has a second newer gallery at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.
ists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI
16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. CLASSIC FINE FOODS No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.
galeriequynh.com
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions.
san-art.org
San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young art-
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GROCERS & DELI
29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.
HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625
MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565
meatworksasia.com
Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.
PHUONG HA GROCERS
SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059
VEGGY’S
GROCERIES & IMPORTER
GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells
Conceptcoiffure.vn
SPORTS CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Adam Zakharoff
Email: adamzakharoff@ gmail.com ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail. com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824
sacccricket@gmail.com
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
manish@ambrij.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.
saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244
FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827
glowsaigon.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
SPORTS — GENERAL
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368
Saigonraiders.com
deepteshgill@gmail.com
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.
famenails.com
SAIGON RAIDERS
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598
FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230
vietnamswans.com
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON
gauloisdesaigon.com
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.
astere@hotmail.fr
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE
saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB
saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
HAIR BAR CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment. JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments. MERCI 17/6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8799
merci-space.com
A unique nail spa and bistro where you can pamper your nails, enjoy a massage, meet your friends, enjoy a meal and sip a cocktail. Provides only waterless nails treatments to avoid bacteria and dry skin as well as Zoya and Kure Bazaar non-toxic varnishes. QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails. Cheap prices, too. SOI SPA 6th & Rooftop, 44 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8678
soispa.vn
A lovely little place with nail services, shampoo head massages, and other simple treatments for a quick getaway experience. Also features a rooftop terrace and a great little drinks and wine selection. Open daily from 10am to 9pm.
SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.
HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery. AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
americaneyecentervn.com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available. CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC
1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
34 Le Duan Street, Q1; 95 Thao Dien Q2, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice (FMP) is the largest and one of the oldest foreign, privately-owned, international health care providers in Vietnam. As the only health
care provider that can offer a countrywide network of integrated clinics for foreign and local populations, FMP’s main specialties include family medicine, pediatrics and emergency medicine as well as health checks and work permit health-tests. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care. FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations. HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068
hanhphuchospital.com
Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.
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HCMC Essentials
IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362
insuranceinasia.com SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 107B Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 01676 71 75 79
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS
99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE
187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545
victoriavn.com
Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998
libertyinsurance.com.vn
International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more. NOAH JAMES INSURANCE AGENCY Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858
noahjamesinsurance.com Skype: jp.global
A full service broker offering expatriates and local Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for life, health, travel, as well as speciality cover for student travel, medevac, international marine, extreme athletics and adventure. For details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance.com TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367
ten-pac.com
A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
INSURANCE PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM 4th/12th Floor Continental Tower, 81-83-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908
pacificcross.com.vn
Pacific Cross Vietnam recently changed names, from Blue Cross Vietnam, to align with their regional sister companies. Together they form the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience providing health and travel insurance to people who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. Contact them now for a free quote.
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ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36
theabcis.com
Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools worldwide. ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA, the Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804
etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc
Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life. BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam. CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
newly built campus.
Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
HCMC’s most established international school offers three International Baccalaureate programmes for students from two to 18 years old. ISHCMC will be launching a new secondary campus in 2017, featuring Vietnam’s first Innovation Center, a 350-seat professional theatre, NBA-sized basketball courts and a 25m competitive swimming pool.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY — AMERICAN ACADEMY 16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100
aavn.edu.vn
ISHCMC — American Academy is a U.S. curriculum secondary school for students aged 11 to 18 years old. Early university credits, a 1:1 University Counseling Program, and an extensive EAL program set our graduates on the road to 100% acceptance rate at overseas universities and a US$1 million scholarship fund.
KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944
kidsclubsaigon.com
Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes. EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257
eishcmc.com
The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99
issp.edu.vn
Vietnam’s only international school offering a U.S. curriculum for children aged 18 months to 11 years old. With 100% English language immersion, a library containing over 13,500 English books and more than 60% of students achieving above grade level English, ISSP students are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or ISHCMC - American Academy.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch. SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.com
SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
tas.edu.vn
Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.
M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.
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HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales. RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. THE NEST 216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 580800
thenesthousing.com
Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.
M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS
185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446
Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.
M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office. HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.
vieclambank.com
VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.
RELOCATION AGENTS
chiscafe.com
Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions. SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273
nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com
Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS
77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690
saigonscootercentre.com
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provides tailored relocation services. ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799
asiantigers-mobility.com
Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field. LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo. com for info.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle. SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.
ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.
EXILE INK 608
57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956
exileinkvietnam.com
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service. SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678
TATTOO ARTISTS
Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.
SPORTS & FITNESS CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620
SAIGON BODY ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1
saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn TATTOO SAIGON
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
laholista.com
Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.
TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat. com
THE LANDMARK CLUB GYM, POOL, SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com BODY AND MIND
CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326
cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals. SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run.
In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM
Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612
facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn
A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).
VETERINARY CLINICS
SPORTS GARMENTS
City with international veterinary surgeons. Upholding international standards, the team works tirelessly to help clients with the support of a dedicated surgical suite, digital X-Ray and comprehensive diagnostic facilities.
SCORE-TECH
VIETNAMESE CLASSES
1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771
vietnameselanguagegarden. com
VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.
score-tech.net
Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.
ANIMAL DOCTORS INTERNATIONAL 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2. (08) 6260 3980
animaldoctors.vn
Offers the very highest levels of compassionate, competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh
SHERATON FITNESS HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE HEALTH CLUB & GYM
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership.
CGV CINEMAS
Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388
STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.
cgv.vn
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BAR STOOL SAIGON LOOKOUT
T
ucked away close to the East-West Highway sits a beautifully pristine French colonial facade, patiently waiting to be discovered. Inside, the restaurant is a fusion of east and west, with strategic mirrors that add light and space to the room, and beautiful ceramic tiles on the floor. Even the bathrooms create a luxurious experience with their long mirrors and elegant sinks. The environment is spacious and intimate, perfect for a business lunch, a dinner date, or even just to enjoy some drinks with friends. The bar at the centre of the first floor promises a treat for any palate with all of the house cocktails priced at VND120,000. The bar staff are Diageo world-class trained bartenders ready to
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whip up any of the house specials, or your favourite classics. According to Thuy Duong, managing partner, the house favourite is the lychee chilli tini, served simply with one red chilli on the rim but perfectly spicy and almost too easy to drink.
Spice of Life The holy grail cocktail is a religious experience. Served with fresh ginger and sprigs of mint, it teases the taste buds to a tug of war between tart, sweet and a hint of spice; the elderflower flavours combined with the bourbon and orange offer an almost dangerous refreshment. A personal favourite is the house whisky sour, presented with a fantastic slice of burnt
orange and made with freshly whipped egg whites. The sour does what the name describes, but also packs in the crisp flavours of orange. Though Saigon Lookout has been established on Ky Con since February 2015, they have recently undergone a dining rebranding, from their Vietnamese fusion kitchen to a simple steak frites concept. In fact, the only item on the menu is 200 grams of Australian ribeye, served with house bĂŠarnaise sauce, unlimited French fries, salad, and a bread roll. Order your steak a little more rare than you would tend to, as it is served above a tea light candle upon a silver platter to keep the meat warm throughout your meal, and gives the entire setting an elegant
PHOTOS BY SIÂN KAVANAGH & VU HA KIM VY
atmosphere. Don’t be shy about taking advantage of the unlimited Parmesan fries, brought over to your table in an equally elegant bucket. What makes the dining room at Saigon Lookout special is that you can get all of that for only VND350,000 at dinner and VND275,000 as the lunch special, which also includes a dessert. “I love to eat steak, but I don’t want to spend VND4 million every time I go out,” jokes Olaf Muller, one of the partners at Saigon Lookout. “What we’re doing here is making the steak experience more humble for our clients.”
Two Pairs The steak frites are obviously served
best with a bottle or glass of red wine, to complement the tender red meat as opposed to overpowering it. At Saigon Lookout you can order without breaking the bank, with the Los Vascos Chilean cabernet sauvignon coming in at a sweet VND680,000 per bottle. The Aussieres Rouge is a tasty syrah from the Chateau Lafite Rothschild which also pairs beautifully with the steak, and comes in at VND600,000. “We want to keep it simple,” says Thuy Duong. “We attract a lot of groups because people know to expect good quality at a stable price, and there is never any difficulty deciding what you want to eat.” Saigon Lookout is all about accessibility to their customer; their current promotion, which sadly only lasts two weeks, is that
if you reserve a table for four or more they will pay for your taxi when you arrive; not just a treat, but a saviour if you fancy a couple of cocktails in the current stormy weather. The layout and concept remains the same between the Steak Frites dining room, Room 37 speakeasy, and The Key club, with each of them catering to a different necessity and similar audience. It’s easy to see exactly why Saigon Lookout has been a talked about hangout spot since it opened; the food is delicious, the drinks taste wonderful, and just being there can transport you back to the glamour of the 1920s. — Siân Kavanagh Saigon Lookout is at 37 Bis Ky Con, Q1, HCMC or online at facebook.com/ saigonslookout.com.vn
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HCMC On The Town
BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.
With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). BROMA, NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR
7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back. BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR
90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588
biacraft.com
As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details. BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452
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Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys. CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR
45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4202 A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene, Champion is located in the Backpackers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. Also has a pool table, darts, tasty Western and Vietnamese food, great cocktails and ice cold beer. Western managed, wonderful local staff. #BeAChampion.
out their daily food specials.
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR
Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
eon51.com
Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Night live music and DJs. GAME ON SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more. HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605
hoavien.vn
The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer.
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.
ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR
24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports.
55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack? A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check
lastcallsaigon.com
If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.
DELIVERY BEN STYLE
LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.
Tel: 0906 912730
www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR
207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine. MALT 46-48 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Malt is a non-smoking bar in downtown Saigon offering shuffleboard, darts, craft beers on tap, signature cocktails and delicious tapas and pub grub. Its unpretentious vibe and casual atmosphere will have you feeling at home.
EAT.VN www.eat.vn
HUNGRYPANDA. VN
www.hungrypanda.vn KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam. com.vn
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn
PIZZA HUT (PHD) MAY RESTAURANT & BAR
Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR
LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR
6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.
D2 SPORTS BAR
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122
GAMES & CRAFT BEER BAR
CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE
LAST CALL
LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR
44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.
19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
mayrestaurant.com.vn
An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space. NUMBER FIVE EXPAT BAR
44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music. OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR
Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen
SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com
TACO BICH www.tacobich.com VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com
An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon. O’BRIEN’S
Lai, Q1
saigonsoul.com
The ultimate in poolside entertainment, Saigon Soul is defined by its great party atmosphere. Booming house music, cold drinks and beautiful people. What better way to spend a Saturday? Runs every Saturday from late November until mid May.
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL
74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience. PEACHES CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt. PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.
SAIGON OUTCAST
SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT
C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520
facebook.com/PitchersPMH
Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.
with BBQs available for parties and events.
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738
Stormp.vn
Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. A good place to watch the live sports.
VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR
188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets. SAIGON RANGER ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559
facebook.com/saigonranger
Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance. SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR
9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.
THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR
VINYL BAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR
A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.
A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
THE OBSERVATORY BAR, ART & DJ SPACE
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit. THE ORIENT SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR
24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
WINE BAR 38 CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass. WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.
SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR
61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1 PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL
STORM P
shrinebarsaigon.com
Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere. SEVENTEEN SALOON
THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999
facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM
Designed as a Laneway-style restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.
THEMED MUSIC BAR
RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks. SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY POOL & DAY CLUB
New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le
103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.
THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix,
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TOP EATS PENDOLASCO
F
or a city nestled within South-East Asia, Saigon has a lot of fantastic Italian food restaurants, and Pendolasco is no exception. The establishment has been serving up delicious pizza, pasta, and seafood to the city for almost 20 years now and shows no signs of slowing down. With a second location in District 2, delivery, and a gigantic menu, the Pendolasco team has you covered no matter what Italian food it is you’re craving. The downtown location is prominent on Nguyen Hue, but the tiny entrance is deceptive; once you walk into Pendolasco you find yourself underneath a canopy of greenery and a beautiful selection of seating either outside under the Saigon sky or inside by the candlelight with air-conditioning. The space resembles an authentic Italian trattoria and for a minute it’s easy to forget that outside is the bedlam of District 1. The menu reads like a novella in terms of length and the poetic names of the dishes; nizzarda (VND190,000) mixed vegetables with tuna, egg, and cheese or the caprese ai 3 pomodori (VND260,000), mozzarella cheese with basil, fresh tomatoes, sundried
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PHOTOS BY RODNEY HUGHES
tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, and black olives. “Having such a long menu means that anyone can find something they want, no matter where they’re from or what they like,” says Matteo Giandomenico, manager of the District 1 location. “We will even be happy to cook something offmenu for you.” He adds: “It’s great working here. Everyone on staff is part of the Pendolasco family, that’s part of the Italian experience and we keep it as authentic as possible.”
Upping the Game There is a new menu that launched this past June, including additions such as nero di seppia con calamari e trancetto di tonno scottato (squid ink risotto with cherry tomatoes, squid, and seared red tuna, VND310,000). This particular dish is not only stunning with the delicately seared tuna on a bed of dark risotto, but also succulent and flavoursome. Be sure to check your teeth and lips in the mirror after ordering this dish — the squid ink can stay with you for quite some time. The weekday set lunch changes each day and offers a different combination of
starter and either pasta, main, or pizza, plus one drink, for VND180,000. Pendolasco isn’t just a restaurant but an authentic experience, crafted by a group of passionate Italians who have made it their mission to keep creating and serving traditional Italian food to every customer. Even though the restaurant prides itself on authenticity, Chef Alessandro Ferreti still has creative licence in the kitchen to create new and exciting dishes. The ostrich carpaccio with rocket, shaved parmesan and roasted cherry tomatoes, carpaccio di struzzo scottato con rucola, scaglie di grana e pomodorini arrostiti (VND240,000), is an exotic choice from the specials menu and an extremely light and tender option compared to the typical beef carpaccio. “It’s amazing working in this industry and being able to work with the customers to give them a good meal,” exclaimed Matteo, “The only thing better than seeing a happy customer leave [Pendolasco], is seeing them return eager for more.” — Siân Kavanagh Pendolasco is at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC. Their District 2 branch is at 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, HCMC
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HCMC On The Town
to complement the old and new world wines. XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR
71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.
CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker. AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE
11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm. BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657
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cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth. DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair. I.D. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee. KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS 40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6685 4160
klasik.coffee
Nitro cold brew coffee, single origin coffee and healthy food. Klasik Coffee Roasters is a small coffee shop with a passion for seeking high quality coffee beans from around the world to roast in Saigon. Holding the belief that each cup tells its own story, drinking coffee at Klasik is all about pleasure and experience: the aroma, the taste, the warmth and the senses inspired by each and every cup. Open daily from 7am to 10pm. L’USINE
23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme. HIDEAWAY
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard,
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.
CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING
CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR
guanabanasmoothies.com
At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM
8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS
49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe. THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE
158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000. THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.
EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution.
27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix. AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424
mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. BAHDJA ASHOKA NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN
17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant. com
Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.
AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.
AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and
BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN
164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2. BLACK CAT AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river. BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN
The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.
2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.
BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vi-
etnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-your-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service. CHRIS FOOD ONLINE TRADITIONAL FRENCH / DESSERTS
Tel: 0909 365525 (English) / 0909 320717 (French)
chrisfoodonline.blogspot. com or facebook.com/muasaleoff2014
Traditional French cuisine and exotic dishes from the Reunion Island served up in Ho Chi Minh City and delivered to your door. All dishes are prepared with fresh ingredients, nothing is frozen. Options include cheesecake, tiramisu, lasagna, chicken curries and muffin. All speciality foods are cooked to order. CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try
their pad thai — to die for. CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000. ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains. EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town. EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN
Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
eon51.com
Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients.
wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 183
HCMC On The Town
GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN
38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service. HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. HOANG YEN PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town. HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace. INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town. JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks. KABIN CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel,
184 | Word July 2016 | wordvietnam.com
8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000. KOH THAI
LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION
Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs. KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot! L’OLIVIER
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team. LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list. LE CORTO CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0671
facebook.com/LeCorto
Open for lunch and set dinner, this beautifully designed restaurant and bar seamlessly mixes contemporary and with classic. With a menu cooked up by reputed chef Sakal Phoeung, and with a contemporary twist to traditional French fare, this is a place to enjoy the luxuries of fine cuisine and even finer wine.
MARKET 39
NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality.
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
LION CITY SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN
29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727
loveat.vn
Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere.
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
a darkwood, aircon interior. Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence. Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour.
LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace. LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests. MAD HOUSE CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT
6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009
facebook.com/madsaigon
Set over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful rustic décor is matched by
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD
19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail. com
Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.
MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front. MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies. NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent.
OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late. PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2. PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT
C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520
facebook.com/PitchersPMH Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat. PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.
POP FRIES CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES
14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938 754851 A street food eatery concept that originates from Los Angeles and New York, and born from a passion for sharing, here it’s all about the loaded fries. The potatoes are twice-cooked and come piled high with a range of inventive toppings. Funky décor and long benches make up the mix. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO
21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.
RACHA ROOM CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 6253 7711
theracharoom.com
The Racha Room delivers Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on high quality ingredients. Racha features a large selection of spirits at a seated bar and high table to ensure drinking along with eating remains central to the experience. The current and future of Asian-inspired drinking and dining is right here at the Racha Room.
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town.
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL
The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains. RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with
sanfulou.com
RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR 44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel (08) 6291 8187
relishandsons.com
Relish & Sons burgers are lovingly made with a healthy food philosophy in mind and fresh high quality ingredients. The beef patties are 100% Australian grass-fed; the buns are made with a reduced sugar and salt content. Burger relishes such as chutneys are all made inhouse from scratch.
SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN
REFINERY QUAN BUI
Tel: (08) 3823 9513
grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.
Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised. SAIGON CAFÉ
Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further. SEOUL HOUSE
SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining. SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.
STOKER CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 3826 8691
stokerwoodfiredgrill.com
One of the world’s oldest culinary techniques — grilling over a wood fire. Stoker kitchen uses different woods to infuse foods with different smoky flavours. These techniques revolutionize live fire cooking by providing precise heat control through the use of a grilling surface that can be adjusted to different cooking heights above the hot coals.
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch. SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN
Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1
SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE
Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
soraesushi.com
Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.
wordvietnam.com | July 2016 Word | 185
KNOW YOUR CITY CAN SAIGON BECOME A LIVEABLE CITY?
BY ED HAYSOM
T
here is intense competition among cities throughout the world for investment, which in turn means wealth for those cities. Recently there have been indices published on what makes a great city and there has emerged a consensus around the concept of ‘liveability’. Generally the more liveable a city is, the more investment it can attract, and there is significant competition among Asia-Pacific economies for a ranking from one of the companies and magazines publishing indices of liveability. The leading ones are Mercer, The Economist and Monocle.
The Indices The Mercer list (intended to help multinational companies decide where to open offices or plants, and how much to pay employees) compares 221 cities based on 39 criteria, though their system is based on New York City, which is given a baseline score of 100. Other cities are rated in comparison. Important criteria are safety, education, hygiene, healthcare, culture, environment, recreation, political-economic stability, public transport and access to goods and services. The Economist Intelligence Unit index also assists businesses to prepare for opportunities, and giving them confidence to make strategic decisions. In the Mercer index, Ho Chi Minh City comes in at number 155. Monocle’s focus is on “the top 25 cities to call home”. Their criteria includes social and economic circumstances for residents, public health, infrastructure, and ease and availability of local transport. They define their highest ranked cities as “places that are benchmarks for urban renaissance and rigorous reinvention in everything from environmental policy to transport.” Ho Chi Minh City is unlisted. On an Employment Conditions Abroad (ECA) list looking at Asia-Pacific cities, Ho Chi Minh City comes in at 42 out of 66 cities, narrowly edging out Hanoi at number 43 (Singapore is ranked top). Ho Chi Minh City should score relatively well on several of the criteria, such as safety, education, culture, recreation, politicaleconomic stability, and access to goods and services. The city is catching up with public transport, healthcare, hygiene and the environment.
commerce while being underpinned by a good infrastructure of buildings, spaces and activities. They are also fundamentally aspirational. Ho Chi Minh City is one of the most aspirational cities on the planet: It is chaotic, noisy, bustling and dynamic. People come here seeking to build a better life for themselves and their family. Great cities are filled with the sights and smells of diverse cultures, are bursting with energy, and are raw, dynamic (and at times uncomfortable) places to be in. They suffer the social tensions that come with rapid change and massive migration. New York, Los Angeles, London, Shanghai, Mumbai or Dubai may not rank at the top of the liveability indices, but they more likely contain the blueprint of our urban future. Our own built environment influences plays a large role in regulating social tensions. The layout of streets can contribute to reducing crime by allowing residences to overlook the street, while having shops and services at ground level provides activity. In addition, the provision of good public spaces can improve physical and emotional health for the community. Nguyen Hue is a great addition to sorely needed public space. I have looked at the drawings of the Ba Son development and have not seen significant public space in that development, which would surely be a necessity given its riverfront location.
Does it Matter?
Streetscapes
Yet a high liveability score does not necessarily make a great city. The world’s best cities encourage global culture or
We have a streetscape unmatched in its variety. Lacking enforced legislation, the cacophony derived from the proliferation of
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advertising signage both on small and large scales contributes to the excitement and energy many feel when they arrive in the city. It clearly demonstrates a strong streak of the do-as-you-please culture. Yet there are problems with this approach. Traffic issues threaten to overwhelm the liveability of Ho Chi Minh City. Some streets are highly toxic to walk down due to the overwhelming number of motorbikes. While the city has many memorable tree-lined streets and boulevards, the best place to experience them is from inside a car because of the traffic, particularly the motorbikes. Motorbikes are simultaneously a strength and a failing of the city. Their strength is they are an efficient transport medium allowing large numbers of people to move quickly and efficiently every day across the city. The motorbike is suited to shortdistance travel, which has influenced the wide dispersal of services, restaurants and shops throughout the city. This has promoted diversity. Removing bikes from the footpaths on some more key pedestrian streets in District 1 would be a good start in providing pedestrian-friendly streets. The eventual arrival of the Metro and the upgrading of the bus system will improve things. For Ho Chi Minh City to move up the list of Southeast Asia’s liveable cities, some fundamental issues about how the city is used need to be addressed. Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City. You can contact him on ehaysom@ modehaysomarchitects.com
HCMC On The Town
TAMAGO
TIN NGHIA
PAN-JAPANESE
VEGAN
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.
9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.
M M M STREET FOOD BA GHIEN COM TAM
84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan
MODERN ASIAN FUSION
38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list. THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE
144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout.
BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI
107 Truong Dinh, Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU
VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.
Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10 BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE
WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 PHO DAU PHO BO
288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
BANH TAM
271 Nguyen Trai, Q1 BO KHO
NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE
BA NAM
PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
260C Pasteur, Q3
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
PHO LE
BUN CHA HA NOI
PHO PHU GIA
Namsonsteak.com
PHO BO
413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5
70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BANH CUON HAI NAM BANH CUON
BUN CHA
PHO BO
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3
CHI THONG
PHO PHU VUONG
11A Cao Thang, Q3 BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU
BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI
PHO BO
195 Co Giang, Q1
339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh
COM GA XOI MO SU SU
SUSHI KO
BANH KHOT
102 Cao Thang, Q3 THE DECK
170 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BANH MI HONG HOA
VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN
STREET SUSHI
55 Tu Xuong, Q3
122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4
COM TAM 40A
THE LUNCH LADY
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1
COM TAM
BANH MI HUYNH HOA
23 Hoang Sa, Q1
MI QUANG MY SON
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI
26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1
MI QUANG
BANH MI SAU MINH
DAILY CHANGING DISHES
40A Quoc Huong, Q2
38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular. ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB
THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999
facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM
Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too. ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.
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BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1
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TAM
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The Final Say THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
Leaving Teaching Getting into teaching requires commitment and time. But getting out of it, especially if you want to stay in Vietnam, requires something else. Words by Owen Salisbury
I
t is 2010. I’ve packed up my belongings and stowed them in the belly of this aluminium cigar tube cruising 12,000 meters above sea level. My life in America is in tatters. At age 31, I — a University-educated American male recently on the upward slope of my career — am moving to one of the last ThirdWorld nations on the planet to rejoin the middle class. Through teaching. The irony of my situation is not lost on me. I had lost my job. I had lost my life’s savings. I had lost my truck and years’ worth of data — writing, photos, marketing projects, graphic design work, and on, and
190 | Word July 2016 | wordvietnam.com
on — through a pair of ridiculous accidents. My life was a clean slate. So was my head.
Starting Life as an Adult, Take 3 It is 2016. March. After six years of teaching, almost all in Vietnam, I cannot do it any longer. I prepare to start my career for the third time. This time, it’s voluntary. The negotiations with the school are a little fraught, but in the end they accept my resignation letter without protest. In truth, I think they are relieved to see me go. Keeping my efforts and my attention on this job — a good, high-paying teaching job — has proved nearly impossible for months.
The last day of school, I don’t say goodbye to my students. They don’t know I’m not coming back. It’s ok. Over the years, I’ve realised it’s only the very special students we might stay in touch with, just as it was only the most special teachers with whom we shared any bond outside the classroom when we were students.
How English Teachers Arrive The route many expats take to Vietnam starts with a TEFL certificate, a deep need to leave their home countries and not much else. Some pass through, content to be
teachers here for three months or three years (as I planned) before moving on to another country or perhaps back home. Many stay, content to teach and drink and while away their evenings on Bui Vien, content to passively follow where events take them. But many move on, career-wise, while staying in Vietnam. How do we expats come to the point of leaving teaching? How do some of us manage to reinvent ourselves all over again and find new ways to make a living?
How They Move On Start by knowing what you want. I know nearly as many teachers who want to leave as want to continue. Yet most will not leave because they don’t have the passion to will a new career into existence. Clearly, I was lucky. Following a love for writing and taking photos led me
to the Word. This job provided me with introductions, the entrée to social scenes that have allowed me to build up these hobbies and others to the point where I can — just barely — call them a career. And on whose income I can just barely survive. This didn’t just happen. To leave teaching, we need a map to guide us forward. Plan with a long planning horizon. Learn new skills, if you have to — I did. In one sense, I began preparing for this when I bought my camera two years ago. Make new contacts. As I did at the Word, which introduced me to people who taught me matters as diverse as writing, photography, how to pursue a story and how to describe a glass of wine. No one can make this jump on their own, not even here where the cost of living is low enough for us to live on dreams and not much else.
Develop your community. Again, we need other people, no matter how good our plan and how long we prepare. And we all need someone who believes in us. My girlfriend, My, has been my champion. As a bonus, the business she started, and which I bought into, is now getting profitable enough where she can help me restart my life, just like I once helped her. She’s made this possible as much as any other single person. This is just one recipe, and an uncertain one at that. I have no idea if I will succeed, for all my determination and preparation, for all that I’ve developed a close community of friends who have helped so much and will continue to do so. The hardest part is yet to come. I’m thankful that it will also be the best, come what may. Owen Salisbury is staff writer at Word.
“How do we expats come to the point of leaving teaching? How do some of us manage to reinvent ourselves all over again and find new ways to make a living?”
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The Final Say
Ten10
An architect and an urban planner, Ed Haysom is involved first-hand in the creation of residential and non-residential projects in Vietnam. Photo by Bao Zoan What brought you to Vietnam? I came to Vietnam courtesy of David Henry from VinaCapital. We had worked together for some years in Australia and when he took up a position in VinaCapital he asked me to come over to design some buildings in Danang and Ho Chi Minh City.
What challenges do you face working as an architect in this country? The challenges are many for a Westerner. On the surface is the language, but I also had to learn the subtleties of the culture, which can trip you up if you are not sensitive to them. You cannot come in to impose your Western ideas on the local culture. There is also an approval system that I don’t fully understand, but my staff do!
What buildings or designs do you find the most interesting here? I am fascinated by the hems (alleyways) and the way that the buildings are knitted together in seemingly haphazard ways. The pattern of the city — the fineness of the grain — is wonderfully rich.
What buildings or designs do you dislike? I dislike the “take-no-prisoners” high-rises that are springing up. They give nothing back to the city, let alone the residents. By their nature they isolate people and we have seen in other countries the failure of that typology for housing communities. I know that they are all over Asia but that doesn’t make them good. Cities like Barcelona have higher population densities than Ho Chi Minh City, but higher livability and very few high-rises. As architects we need to show the way towards a new typology that works for the city. I would like the city to build from its wonderful heritage and not just copy stuff from overseas. This is a unique place.
How important is it for this country to start focusing more on ‘green’ buildings? Critically important, as buildings soak up an enormous amount of energy. Saving energy means not having to build more power plants. Decisions made during the building design process have long-term implications for the community. Cheap air conditioners, poorly insulated buildings, lack of ventilation and window shading all contribute to high energy bills. Good ‘passive’ design is not expensive and can reduce energy costs in the short and long term. The French understood it when they built
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here. So there are many good examples and templates to follow.
How difficult is it to marry the wants of your clients versus what is good for them and good for this country as a whole? It is always difficult, but it has become easier as I have become older. You must remember that you are there to serve your client first but also the community. You must add value to both. Clients respect integrity and competence so it is important that you maintain both.
How are the new suburbs in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City changing the way people live? I am not a fan of these new masterplans as I think they lack the ingredients that make Vietnam such an interesting country to be in. One of the problems with them is the sheer scale of the developments and making them work for the people inside them. If you look at older developments, Vietnamese have found ways to demonstrate their individuality. I can’t see the individuality in the new stuff.
How well are these suburbs being planned? Some are good some are bad. When I came here I was surprised at how the masterplanning is almost seen as a ‘giveaway’ at the beginning of a project. It is critically important to get it right and spend time on resolving all of the issues and not see it as something to rush through.
Do you see suburban living as the future of Vietnam? Housing should always be about choice.
So I would not like to see that choice removed from residents of the cities here. There will always be people who want to live in the suburbs and those who want to live in the city. You can view it as an arc — you start in the city, move out when you have children then come back when the children have left home.
If you could change one thing about the layout of Ho Chi Minh City, what would it be? I really like the layout as it is; classical mid-19th century French planning. Even though it is frustrating to move around sometimes I like the fact that there are no motorways carving up the city. Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City
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Sách Chuyên Quảng Cáo - Not For Sale