Word Vietnam June 2016

The Five Stages of Expat THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 6 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

Contents Jun. 2016

60

24

96

THE TALK 010 / The Future of Expat A word of warning

011 / The Big Five June in Vietnam

BRIEFINGS 12 / Ratatat

They came, they saw, and damn did they conquer!

28 / Stick Up

Vietnam learns a new sport: hockey

EAT & DRINK 104 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

INSIDER

This month’s review: Minh Thuy’s Family Restaurant

54 / Running the Hash

106 / Fowl Play

Silly names and a drinking problem.

Meet the Hash House Harriers

60 / The Five Stages of Expat

A night out on Chicken Street

108/ Mystery Diner HCMC My Banh Mi gets the onceover

14 / Digital Love

If you live here long enough, Vietnam 110 / Banh Trang Trang Bang changes you When it comes to roll-it-yourself, this dish is a winner

18 / Zo Project

Making Phong Nha into a destination

Giving youth a chance through IT training Traditional papermaking gets a commercial boost

24 / The Hospital

FV Hospital ups its game

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86 / How to Build a Tourist Town

96 / Not Only Cheap, It’s Flea

Everyone loves a flea market, even Vietnam

106

Contents Jun. 2016

118

126

130

TRAVEL

136 / Day Tripper

COLUMNS

112 / The Tourification of Tonsai

142 / Bar Stool

138 / The Alchemist

Another pristine beach in Southeast Asia is going under the hammer. Or is it?

144 / Coffee Cup

140 / The Therapist

148 / Top Eats 1

152 / Medical Buff

118 / The Other Side of Maldives

150 / Top Eats 2

162 / Body and Temple

154 / City Map

174 / Know Your City

HCMC 30 / To-Do List

178 / Amazing Grapes

A journey to paradise. Well, almost paradise

126 / Notes from Another City Entry 5: The Hoi An Tourist Trap

130 / The Motorbike Diaries

40 / Just In

182 / A World of Good FINAL SAY

Connecting the dots

156/ HCMC City Guide

HANOI

160 / Day Tripper

44 / To-Do List

170 / Bar Stool

Why Vietnamese treat foreigners as they do

50 / Just In

176 / Top Eats

188/ Ten 10

132 / Hanoi City Guide

184 / City Map

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186 / 10 Steps to Knowing Foreigners

The woman behind Art Vietnam Gallery: Suzanne Lecht

CONTRIBUTORS This month we asked our team to tell us about the moment has defined their time living in Vietnam HARRY HODGE Contributor Marriage was a defining moment.

Drinking rice wine in an ao dai at 7am with my wife’s uncles in a village in Bac Ninh made me feel truly immersed in the culture, no matter how bad my hangover was the next day.

SIÂN KAVANAGH Staff Writer First time driving myself through downtown Saigon on my moto; I was petrified but all of a sudden it gave me a much better insight into how Vietnamese traffic actually works, and on a more interesting level, how Vietnamese society functions. You just have to get with the flow, keep your eyes ahead, and stay focused.

NICK ROSS Chief Editor For me it was the realisation of having kids and having to pay school fees. No way was I going to be able to afford that on a teacher’s salary. That was how the magazine started: I needed to go into business.

JULIE VOLA Photo Editor I know it sounds cheesy, but for me it’s getting this job as a photographer and photo editor for the magazine. I am finally following my dream.

MADS MONSEN Creative Director There are many moments and they keep on coming the longer I stay. Professionally, the first time walking down Le Loi in Saigon and seeing my image on a billboard outside the Saigon Centre. Personally, being addressed to as con by my parents-in-law and being fully accepted as a family member.

RODNEY HUGHES Staff Photographer For me it was eight months into living in Vietnam when I realized how much opportunity is available here. The sense of freedom with the knowledge you can make a living doing whatever it is you love was overwhelming. It really showed me how much I love living in this country.

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor nick@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

OWEN SALISBURY Staff Writer owen@wordvietnam.com

BAO ZOAN Staff Photographer baozoan@wordvietnam.com

SIÂN KAVANAGH Staff Writer sian@wordvietnam.com

RODNEY HUGHES Staff Photographer rodney@wordvietnam.com

JULIE VOLA Photo Editor julie@wordvietnam.com

JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer (Hanoi) jesse@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

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For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to CAMA ATK, Sporting Republic, PNV, Zo Project, Billy Gray, Hanoi Horse Club, AsiaMotions, FV, Harry Hodge, James Chew, Emily Petsko, Hanoi & Saigon Hash House Harriers, Oliver de Paolis, Benjamin Evans & Emma McGowan, Lelio Adriano, Eduardo Culbeaux, Mon Ovathasarn, Sara Melje-Besset, Paul Massad, Ali Waugh, Kylie Michelle, Natalia Kraevskaia, Thanh Charles, Nguyen Thanh Hai, Howard & Deb Limbert, Ben Mitchell, Ngoc, Dzung, Doan Thu Hang from Saigon Flea Market, Bong Hai Anh from Hanoi Uppik, Minh Thuy’s Family Restaurant, Ted Dalton, My Banh Mi, Vi Pham, Tran Cam Thu, Hang Le, Don Wills, Matt Dworzanczyk, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, La Plume, Lissom Parlour, Cutisun, La Table du Chef, Laurel Winter, Phil Kelly, QUI Dining Lounge, Ed Haysom, My Chicken Run, Jim Cawood, Dana McNairn, Suzanne Lecht and David Legard

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Mã ISBN: 978-604-77-2125-2 SÁCH CHUYÊN ĐỀ QUẢNG CÁO

Prelude

O

ne night in Hanoi about five or six years ago I found myself telling my expat story to two 20-something women from England. It was one of those crazy evenings that lingered on until sunrise. I know I have a tendency to talk a lot, but the women were riveted.

At the time I was amazed that they were so interested.

There were no war zones in there, no death-defying feats, no Hollywood shoot-outs and not a dead body in sight. In retrospect I understood. Living back home means acquiescing to the mundane. It means living a life with few moments of excitement. It means, most importantly, being ‘normal’. If you are an expat living in Vietnam, then you are

far from anything that can be called ‘normal’.

There are thousand of stories like mine, of foreigners who came to Vietnam and ended up living here. I’ve heard many of them, and despite my 17 years in this country, I still find them fascinating. The truth of the matter?

They are.

For me, living in Vietnam was all to do with craving experience. When I was younger I was greedy for it. Other people have come for

different reasons — for the freedom, for the opportunities, for the camouflage, or just to try something new.

In our cover story we have tried to capture this, these unique stories. We’ve tried to capture something else as well — the feeling, the sense, the idea, the experience of what it’s like to live somewhere as far-flung and beautifully crazy as Vietnam. I hope you like the stories as much as we do. — Nick Ross

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 6 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

The Five Stages of Expat THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

The

THIS MONTH'S COVER Design by DH Advertising

Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

Inbox Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us at nick@ wordvietnam. com — we’re at your fingertips.

The Organic Farm

Food Stories

Page 54, May 2016 From a discussion on Facebook Organik also does distribution, so some other shops carry their products. An Nam sells organic products as well. — HPL You should speak to Bob Allen from Veggies. He owns farms in Dalat and will tell you.

You’re correct, contaminants disappear over time, but only if the chemicals used by other farmers / factories / the water companies are no longer used either. One of the biggest issues, as an example, is the amount of chlorine in Vietnam’s water system. Chlorine is used to treat all sewerage and naturally, this gets back into the ground water... — Word Vietnam So what is the HAACP organic certification for Organik? Can you get one when it isn’t 100% organic?

— HPL Yes, of course you can.

HAACP means the food is safe.

Different. — Word Vietnam

May 2016 Great Mag for May. Loved the food thing — terrific — and what a different approach. The Uncle Bills story was fascinating, enjoyed your graffiti story.

A pity those guys are not in Saigon. Phu Yen looks fascinating. Even the cover was good. — RR

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Vegetarian Hanoi Page 190, May 2016 I’ve tried probably most if not all possible vegetarian restaurants in Hanoi, but prefer to cook my own veggie meals. Can’t handle all the gluten fake meat stuff, not a big fan of everyday rau muong either. Plus vegetarianism is definitely not led by Westerners. — LA

Pho The People Page 62, May 2016 You should visit this place next time you’re in Saigon. Great pho and you’ll love the history and the room upstairs. Great place to visit! — AF

Al Fresco’s: An Unlikely Success Story Page 68, May 2016 I’d just say this: 1) Serve good food 2) Give good service 3) Give fair price 4) Be consistent And everyone loves them. — TM

Talk Lead

THE TALK

LEAD ARTICLE

The Future of Expat It could be bright. But play it the wrong way and it could be terrible

I

n early 2011, our managing editor of Word Ha Noi Julia Plevin wrote the following comment: “The truth holds that… a lot of expats are somewhat damaged goods.”

One reader was enraged: “Damaged goods. What a charming turn of phrase you Americans have. Only someone who grew up in a cut-throat society that quickly divides its entire population into a few ‘winners’ and a vast underclass of ‘losers’ would have the nerve to use such a vile and hateful descriptive of the very people your publication claims to cater to.”

Yet, Julia was correct. A small number of expats (please note: not all) do end up in Vietnam because they have been unsuccessful elsewhere. Many others get moved on or rotated by HQ, while a minority marry, decide to become entrepreneurs and stay.

Whatever the reason you are here, if you are an expat, you are a guest in this country. Everyone has difficult moments — it’s inevitable. But if you consistently behave badly, then it will make your hosts treat you with contempt. They will look down not just on you, but on nguoi nuoc ngoai or foreigners in general. Overdo it, then calls to ‘halt immigration’ will start to come, like they have in the West.

Not for Sore Eyes The recent explosion of a private expat Facebook group that shall remain nameless is an example of expats creating their own reasons to be thrown out of Vietnam.

[Full disclosure: I’ve been blocked from the group, even though I’ve never tried to join it!] On the one hand, the group is there to allow people to vent their frustrations at life in this country. There are many, as there are many no matter where you live; letting off steam is both normal and natural. But when people start complaining about this country and its people, and worse, get racist, you wonder why they are here at all.

Take the term zuzu, one that is increasingly used in this group (it originally comes from the name of someone’s pet monkey). Meant to refer to Vietnamese people in the same way that gook once referred to Koreans, and you start to wonder; what are the people using these terms doing here in the first place?

If you want ‘damaged goods’, then surely this is it?

Worse, imagine how Vietnamese people would feel if they knew that those

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very people they allow to live in their country were referring to them by such a derogatory term? Back home you would be up in arms if immigrants or refugees treated your country or your people with disdain. It’s no different in Vietnam.

Attitude When I first arrived here, there were all sorts of oddballs hanging about. The Gary Glitter episode got rid of most of the paedophiles — most — while increasingly strict rules on hiring teachers has professionalised the industry. One of the key changes was the enforcement of work permit rules and the tightening up of visa regulations. People may rightly complain about the lack of clear information on how to get that-all important work permit or

visa. Yet this has helped to ensure that the majority of people who shouldn’t be in Vietnam, are no longer here.

Yet every time an expat is involved in an incident of road rage; treats a waitress badly in a restaurant; writes a needless, nasty comment on Facebook; or acts towards a Vietnamese person like they are stupid, they are adding to a growing dislike of foreigners among locals. And so this prejudice against foreigners is growing.

Expats are guests, and when they live in Vietnam, many live a charmed life.

So enjoy it while you can. Respect what you’ve got and the people who have let you live here, because if you don’t, visa and work permit regulations may get even tighter. Then, the only ‘goods’ that will be ‘damaged’ will be expats. — Nick Ross

Big5 The

A music festival, Geva Alon, exhibitions, a Dutch DJ and some side-splitting comedy

a

b

1

Saigonella Art and Music Festival

Israeli singer songwriter, Geva Alon

Young Marco is making it big, so big he’s playing at Observatory this month

a)

b)

Club House Tan Thuan, HCMC Saturday, Jun. 4 Many a music festival has tried to set up roots in Saigon, but after one or two showings, they’ve disappeared off the radar.

The latest pretender is Saigonella.

With a venue close to the river in District 7, they’re bringing DJs and live music together with a range of arty, environmentally friendly activities.

Will it work? We hope so! With tickets starting at VND250,000, it’s certainly affordable.

For more info click on facebook.com/ saigonella or turn to page 32

Geva Alon 2

Saigon Ranger, HCMC Jun. 9 and Jun. 10

This is an interesting one as in his native Israel, Geva Alon is an A-lister, a household name. Yet here he’s an unknown.

Geva’s also got some international street cred, having worked with some pretty well-known names in the music industry including Macy Gray, Paul Weller and famed producer Thom Monaghan.

So, what can we expect? Well, he’s here with his new band, Vegan Friendly, and he’s often compared to

Neil Young. So our suggestion? Go along and find out. Could be a gem of a show.

For more info on ticketing and the show itself, turn to page 32

3

Affordable Art for You Exhibition Centre for Fine Art and Photography, Hanoi Jun. 5 to Jun. 12

The format is simple. Locally produced art by recognised artists at prices that aren’t going to break the bank balance. And not surprisingly, so far Art For You has been a great success.

Now, however, it’s moving to a new, larger venue. And with over 300 works on sale, there’s a lot to choose from. Just imagine what it would be like to curate!

The Exhibition Centre for Fine Art and Photography is at 29 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. For more info turn to page 46

4

Young Marco Observatory, HCMC Saturday, Jun. 11

You may well have heard of the DJ, Young Marco, and if you have there’s a good reason for it. This Dutchman, a formidable DJ and producer, is starting to gain global kudos thanks to his work both on and off the DJ booth. The Observatory reckons this

is gonna be a big gig. So, best get down and find out.

Doors are at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm and VND150,000 thereafter. The Observatory is at 5, Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

A Night with Will Mars 5

Game On Saigon, HCMC and CAMA ATK, Hanoi Jun. 29 and Jun. 30

Full disclosure. Word has a vested interest in professional stand-up comedy as two of the organisers of Saigon International Comedy work for this fine publication.

More disclosure. These two fine people wouldn’t be spending so much time and energy in bringing international stand-up comedians to this country if they didn’t believe in the power of comedy. Indeed, what is life without laughter?

The latest offering should be a good ‘un (although last month’s gig with Turner Sparks will be pretty difficult to beat). Headlined by the irrepressible Will Mars, a UK-born comic with accolades coming out of his armpits, once again both shows will bring you the best of the amateur scene, a scene that thanks to the work of a dedicated few is starting to produce some accomplished comics.

Wanna get all the juice? Turn to pages 38 and 48 and read on.

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 11

Briefings Hanoi

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Ratatat An intimate gig with an international act

H

anoi’s music scene is starved for international acts, so months ago, when CAMA ATK posted an event on Facebook featuring New York-based instrumentalists Ratatat, music nerds across the city collectively freaked out.

I’ve been a fan for 10 years, so I won’t pretend that I kept my cool.

I turned up at the venue two hours early. As people began to filter in, my friends and I claimed a spot at the front of the stage, waiting like a bunch of giddy teenagers about to see our favourite local band play a house party. Except this was a band that’s toured with the likes of Interpol and Daft Punk, played massive festivals like Coachella, and released five studio albums.

“Ratatat wanted to do a small gig in an intimate venue,” says Dan Dockery from CAMA. “We could have sold the tickets at VND500,000 apiece and sold out, to be honest, but that’s not what it’s about. It’s about music, and making it accessible to everybody.”

There’s something about a small venue with good music that makes for wild parties. Everyone in that tiny, hot room was soaking wet and vibrating with joy. The band gave us nostalgic smiles with familiar riffs from their first album, Classics, and treated us to new tunes off their latest release, Magnifique.

‘We Love Vietnam’ If you’ve never seen Ratatat live, let me explain. The band is producer Evan Mast, guitarist Mike Stroud, and a whole bunch of knobs and pedals. Projections of fireworks and

lions spill across the stage, while Evan pounds a giant drum with a bass guitar around his neck, and Mike leaps and thrashes and does guitar solo backbends, occasionally throwing water all over his sweaty crowd.

You’d never guess from the energy they gave us, but Evan confessed to a fan after the show that they hadn’t slept in a week, on the tail end of their first world tour in four years. This was their last stop before heading home, but it wasn’t their first visit to Vietnam.

In 2009, the band played a stilt house in Long Bien to a crowd of 300, and made an appearance at Saigon’s Loretofest that same year. When I asked Evan why they keep coming back, his answer was simple: “We love Vietnam.”

Outside CAMA after the show, the guys were inundated with thank-yous and autograph requests. Fame hasn’t gone to their heads, they graciously posed for selfies, and shared cigarettes and small talk with the crowd.

It’s this breakdown of the barrier between audience and performer that was so special. The bigger a show is, the more you feel like just a ticket stub, and the less you’re able to connect to the experience.

But when 100 people get to huddle around a band they love, some kind of magic happens.

As my eyes strayed around the room during the show, I caught the gaze of dancing strangers who smiled back at me knowingly. We didn’t have to say anything. The music between us was enough. — Jesse Meadows

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Charity of

the Month

Digital Love How do you create sustainable development? Passerelles Numériques Vietnam’s answer is to train underprivileged students to work in IT

“W

e believe in them,” says Julie Tardieu of the students taught in the IT programmes run by Passerelles Numériques Vietnam (PNV).

“The big challenge is to help them believe in themselves.”

Julie is the general manager of PNV, a French charity based in Danang, and has been running operations in Vietnam since September, 2015. As she tells me about one of the programme’s recent graduates, it’s clear that she’s passionate about the project she oversees. And it’s clear that the former student now believes in herself.

“Last week I was with Luyen,” she says.

“She’s from the countryside and was living with her aunt, sister and mother — there was no father in the picture. They were striving in the rice fields.

“She studied for two years and graduated in 2014. Now she’s a software developer

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and she’s giving money back to her mother.

She’s living here in Danang and is quite independent now. She’s just taken a plane for the first time with her company and she’s very proud she’s got a professional life — it’s very touching for me. These are her words: ‘When all the doors of hope were closed’, PNV arrived in her school and she was accepted.”

California Dreaming Set up in France, Passerelles Numériques opened their first training centre, in Cambodia, in 2006. In 2009 they launched in The Philippines and in 2010, Vietnam.

During this period they have trained more than 1,000 underprivileged youths to build their employability through education in the digital industry, helping both themselves and their families escape poverty.

So successful has the project been that 80 percent of the students in last year’s class, who graduated with an IT Diploma

from the University of Danang, already had jobs to go to when they left PNV. The rest found work within two to three months of finishing their course.

The key is that PNV doesn’t just teach technical and vocational skills, but life skills.

“For me this is what really makes the difference,” explains Julie. “We provide soft skills training. We teach our students how to behave in a company and how to communicate with others. We also try to train them in how to manage a project. This is very important because besides technical skills, companies are looking for people who are proactive, can take initiative and know how to learn by themselves.”

The other key aspect of the course is the internship programme — PNV students spend three months working with companies in Danang and Ho Chi Minh City. According to Julie it’s a win-win situation: “We work with companies to

ensure that our students fit their needs and that the training provided by the companies will fit our needs as well.”

The formula works — PNV’s students are in high demand.

Ok Computer Only taking on students living in Central Vietnam — Quang Binh, Quang Tri, Danang, Quang Nam, Kontum, Quang Ngai and Binh Dinh — which is also one of the poorest parts of the country, the selection process starts with local government identifying high schools in poor areas, and PNV visiting these schools.

“We inform students about the programme,” says Julie, “and tell them about what kind of opportunities they can find in IT. The ones who are interested take tests in maths and logic. If they pass the test, then we interview them individually.”

In the interviews, PNV checks the potential

and motivation of the applicants and assess whether they will be successful on the training programme, and after that good employees or entrepreneurs. This is followed by a visit to the families and a further assessment based on social criteria to determine whether they can study without PNV or not. “The goal is to help students who can’t study without us.”

Students who are successfully accepted onto the programme will have all their financial needs paid for by PNV — food, accommodation, transportation, health insurance, medical care, university tuition fees and technical equipment. For two years the students don’t have any expenses. Says Julie: “Actually, during the selection process it’s a big challenge to convince the families to trust us. Sometimes they don’t believe that everything is for free.”

The reward, though, is immense. So far, 163 students have graduated from PNV, and at present there are two classes with a total

of 100 students; 48 are studying software development and the rest are learning testing and web development.

“In Vietnam, so many companies are building up,” says Julie. “There are so many start-ups and so many foreigners building companies here. They all have expectations and you feel that it’s very dynamic. You can really sense that in Ho Chi Minh City and in Danang, that everyone is really into it, creating new projects, creating new applications, creating new video games. I believe PNV can really be part of this new development and create new jobs which will help new companies.”

For more information on PNV, click on passerellesnumeriques.org. The next class that starts at PNV will study for three years and students will finish with a college degree from the University of Danang. PNV is also in the process of expanding its partnerships to Ho Chi Minh City

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Briefings

Marcel Lennartz

National

To the Limits On Jun. 11, the Phu Quoc Marathon gets its first outing

E

arlier this year the comedian Eddie Izzard ran a marathon a day for 27 days in South Africa. Testing his 54-year-old body to its limits, at the end of the final day he gasped, “It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done, and I’m very tired.”

The feat raised US$1 million for Sports Relief.

Such inhuman levels of endurance and pain won’t be on show at the inaugural Phu Quoc Marathon on Jun. 11, but completing the 26 miles and 385 yards, or 42.195km, in tropical heat will still be a big ask for even the most experienced of runners.

One such person who has tested his willpower and endurance to the limit is race director, Marcel Lennartz. Having lived in Vietnam for 21 years, the Dutchman went down the path of so many expats in this country — he stopped doing exercise and put on weight. That all changed seven years ago when a friend challenged him to run 20km on a treadmill. He managed it and from there went on to run triathlons.

“I’d never done a triathlon before,” he says. “In Mui Ne, seven or eight years ago I was last to finish. I didn’t care. Then I did the triathlon in Hoi An two or three times, I finished almost last. After that I started to improve my swimming and my cycling.”

Three years ago, around the time of the first Ho Chi Minh City Run, he joined a local running club. Now at its helm, he has seen the group grow in size — they run three to four times a week. However, his own personal Eddie Izzard moment, his moment of calculated madness, came in early 2015 when he decided to run from Saigon to Vung Tau.

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Although 20 people signed up for the run, when the group finally undertook the 100km or so from Saigon to Vung Tau, only three people took part. One of them was Marcel.

“People always said, ‘You can never do this run to Vung Tau’,” he says, “but I ended up showing them the middle finger.”

No Half Measures At one of the triathlons in Hoi An, Marcel met David Shin from Sporting Republic — he was the first person Marcel had encountered who had completed a full Ironman. Marcel was impressed.

Then in 2012 Marcel ran the Phu Quoc Half Marathon organised by Sporting Republic. After the race, he spoke to David a few times, but it was through a friend in Hoi An that Marcel was asked if he would like to work with the sport management and marketing company to put together a second half-marathon in Phu Quoc. Marcel and David started to chat, and from there decided to stage a full marathon, with Marcel as the race director.

The inaugural race on Saturday, Jun. 11 should see around 200 participants taking part in four different events — the 42km, the 21km, the 10km and the 5km. Marcel believes about 30 people will be running the full marathon.

“The majority of people will be doing the half-marathon,” he says, “while very few will be taking part in the 5km race, as most people won’t fly to Phu Quoc just to run 5km.”

They've been working with the Phu Quoc authorities who will be providing volunteers and helping with logistics. “They’ve been

absolutely fantastic to work with,” says Marcel. And for anyone who ran the halfmarathon in 2012, the route will be different. “[When I was scouting the route] I ran the 2012 course again and there were some problems. A lot of the GPS on Google Maps is out of date. Also there is too much sun on the old route and too much dust. And because we’re organising the run in early June, in the worst case scenario you’ll get rain and it can get really muddy.”

The result is that more of the race will be on-road than in the past, not that it diminishes the experience of running a marathon in Phu Quoc. According to Marcel, there are some stunning views along the course.

The key, though, is the finish line, everyone’s ultimate goal. Located at Long Beach Resort, a property with two swimming pools, Marcel has something special prepared.

“One thing about running is that when you finish, you really want an ice-cold bath,” he says. “So we are going to fill one of the pools with ice and make a huge ice bath.”

Indeed, even Eddie Izzard got into bath mode, spending an hour a night submerged in ice-cold water. A common practice among elite athletes, it helps muscles recover faster.

And after 42km of running in the tropical heat of Phu Quoc, recuperating will be as important as the race itself.

For more info on the Phu Quoc Marathon, click on sportingrepublic.com/phuquocmarathon.

Marcel organises most of the runs for runclub.vn.

Their facebook group can be found at facebook. com/groups/runclub.vn

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 17

Briefings Hanoi

Zo Project Traditional Vietnamese paper made fashionable 18 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

S

o often we delight in the intricately designed crafts and artwork of different cultures, wondering what it reflects about the society that nourished its creation.

Yet often we forget to ask ourselves what these things really mean — even the people making them have forgotten why those particular symbols and materials were used.

Zo Project is an award-winning social enterprise established in 2013 by Tran Hong Nhung. The project works in collaboration with a village in Bac Ninh Province that produces traditional Vietnamese do paper.

The Zo team then uses the paper to create notebooks, postcards, lamps and other niche crafts that they sell from their workshop in Hoan Kiem.

A large number of traditions in Vietnam have been in steady decline for years now; as the country develops, elements of its past naturally get left in the shade, out of sight and out of memory. The decline of traditions like calligraphy and painting has opened a void in the creative conscience of many Vietnamese; many artists go unappreciated, while the art market itself is largely non-existent.

Recognising that do paper was a dying craft, Nhung set about a plan to preserve this beautiful tradition in an environmentally sustainable way.

There is only one village left in Vietnam that hand-produces do paper. But the team has plans to run educational workshops on how to craft it and have set up their own workshop specifically for producing the paper in the event that the current papermasters stop pursuing their craft.

I met founder Nhung in their old office in Tay Ho, while they were in the process of relocating to their current base in Hoan Kiem.

“We make a lot of mess,” she says, rummaging through stacks of paper and notebooks.

Alongside a dedicated team of volunteers and international collaborators, Nhung has crafted a space where crafts come alive, and the intrigue of creativity is ever-present. The location of the Zo workshop itself inspires creativity — nestled along the train tracks running through Hoan Kiem, the closeknit community surrounding them is one of Hanoi’s most famous destinations for curious travellers and photographers.

“Some of these people have been living here by the train tracks for generations, and I ask myself why? I look out of the window and it’s like I’m watching a movie go by, it’s so interesting,” says Nhung.

Working with Paper Since establishing themselves, Zo Project has won the Social Enterprise of the Year 2015 award from the Centre for Social Initiatives Promotion (CSIP) and has

gained a loyal following of artists and volunteers who share their vision for a passion for the real story behind the crafts of culture — namely, the people themselves.

“For me, it’s about saving cultural and traditional values as well, not just the paper,” Nhung says. “We work with artists and hold exhibitions of their work — we try to bring more artists into working with the paper.”

“People see the patterns on the crafts, they know how to sew it, but so often they don’t know why it’s there or what it means,” says Nhung. The project is passionate about teaching people the culture behind crafts and patterns that we see often in Vietnam, but also why people chose to design something in a particular way and what it might say about those people.

The Zo Project workshop is more than a place to buy hand-made crafts, it’s a reflection of an emerging youth scene in Hanoi that is passionate about creation with preservation, that longs for an artistic explosion in their capital, but can be part of its creation as well.

Officially reopened on the Jun. 2, Zo Project warmly awaits anyone who strays on the right side of the tracks near the Hoan Kiem area. — Billy Gray Zo Project is based at 8 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. You can check them out online at zoproject.com

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 19

Briefings

PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS

Hanoi

20 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

A Kingdom for a Horse Riding high in the centre of Hanoi

N

ot far beyond the metro rail line and monolithic real estate projects under construction in Cau Giay District, there’s a narrow street that leads to a gravel path that leads to a dirt road and finally to a field.

And inside the field? Horses. Roaming free, in the middle of Hanoi.

I was just as surprised as anyone when I learned that Hanoi has a horse farm and foreign instructors that offer lessons in grooming, riding, trotting and jumping.

It had been over a decade since my days of chasing blue ribbons at Southwest Pennsylvania horse shows on a chocolatecoloured steed named Merlin, but I was eager to give it another shot in the saddle.

In the Family Nguyen Thi Hoa Hop, founder of the Hanoi Horse Club in the Van Canh-Di Trach Commune of Hoai Duc District, inherited the hobby from her husband. His grandfather was among the first people to bring the circus to Vietnam, and it has become a family tradition to train dogs, horses and monkeys.

The couple opened their farm eight years ago after buying 10 horses, and it has since grown into a larger operation with nearly 30 horses and ponies, including thoroughbreds and a variety of breeds.

They recently relocated their stables after the government turned the land they were previously using into a park, and are now in the process of building an indoor arena.

To get to the farm, you must drive through a nearly deserted residential community, past corroded gates, overgrown weeds and unpainted, unlived in houses.

The area is eerily quiet, and I’m suddenly

aware that I can hear birds chirping. It feels both refreshing and post-apocalyptic, and I’m grateful to be on a motorbike in case I spot a family of zombies bumbling down the sidewalk.

The Horses “The facilities here aren’t great right now,” says Katie Taylor, an English film producer and the club’s newest riding instructor, while explaining that the farm is a work in progress.

But what’s most important, she said, is the quality and care of the horses.

“As an instructor and as a horse person, I’ve ridden crazy horses, timid horses, unbroken horses, and if you’re a beginner and you come to a stable for the first time, especially in Asia, you want to know that you’re going to sit on a horse that isn’t crackers, and these horses aren’t.”

She said the only other place to ride horses in Hanoi that she’s aware of is by the Red River, but the horses are untrained and mostly used as props for wedding pictures.

At Hanoi Horse Club, the animals have the freedom to roam about in the open fields in a calm, low-stress environment. A rare luxury in Hanoi.

“These are good horses,” she says.

“They’ve got great coats, they’re well looked after and it’s a sort of organic environment that they live in. They’re not tied up all the time.”

Black Beauty Hop said their students are mostly Vietnamese, but they also teach foreigners, especially Koreans and Japanese. The youngest student is three, and the oldest is 60.

Antoine Vander Elst, a Belgian who works

for the European Union, brought his 11-yearold daughter, Maude, to class one early Sunday morning.

“She’s very passionate about horses so it was like a dream for her,” he says about discovering Hanoi Horse Club.

“She loves taking care of the horses, but also she likes the location and she’s very happy with the instructor.”

Maude can groom the horse, prepare the saddle and mount by herself, requiring only a bit of guidance from a helper who leads the horse around the outdoor arena.

As for me, I also needed some assistance to keep the horse on the path. But it felt natural to be back on a horse, riding uninhibited with the chaotic city a world away in the distance.

One helper, Tuyet Dao, 28, said horseback riding is still fairly new in Vietnam, which makes it more appealing as a hobby.

“I was very surprised that there was a horse farm with a lot of horses in the centre of Hanoi,” she says. “We never had real classes riding horses like this.”

In addition to regular lessons, the Horse Club also hosts a charitable programme called Horse for Healing, which provides free lessons to autistic children. Hop said the lessons help children connect with the animals and improve their balance.

“After three to five lessons, they feel relaxed and they like it very much,” Hop says. “They always ask their parents to bring them to Hanoi Horse Club to ride the horses now.” — Emily Petsko Full classes cost VND5 million for 12 lessons, or VND450,000 per lesson. For more information, visit nguahanoi.vn/en, and for directions, contact hanoihorse@gmail.com

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 21

Briefings HCMC

In the Summer Time Time for your kids to go off on summer camp

“I

’ve already registered painting and karate courses for you this summer,” my neighbour told her son.

That took me back to my childhood and reminded me of summer trips I had been on. They were not girl scout excursions, they were just simply going to visit someone’s home town. On those journeys, I learnt a lot of new things that the city hadn’t been able to teach me.

That is the reason why summer camps organised by the likes of AsiaMotions are so important to children. It not only gives them a chance to get out of the city with their peers, but it also provides an experience they would never normally have in their daily lives and, if they are expat kids, an experience they would never get back home.

Baptiste du Chaffaut, the operations director of AsiaMotions, says: “Going on a summer camp is a great experience for a child as it is the opportunity to experience new activities and make new friends in a safe and awesome outdoor environment.”

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Learn and Play

Come Home New

Thanks to those simple trips, I know how to harvest peanuts, use fish traps, catch snails, distinguish between a cow and a buffalo, start a fire with wood and much more. And with organised and planned summer camps, the benefits will be even greater.

According to Baptiste, children will learn how to tie knots, read maps and the stars, learn basic Morse code along with other skills including team building, making decisions, taking responsibilities, being independent and creative.

“There will be other outdoor fun activities including kayaking, banana boating, rock climbing, zip lining, paint balling, team sports and games, such as ‘kick the can’ and ‘man hunt’. Kids’ craft and evening games and songs are also prepared,” Baptiste adds.

Moreover, different age ranges will have different programmes to suit their personalities and abilities. As there will be a wide range of activities, the kids will be able to decide which ones they want to engage in and ones they dislike.

One certain thing is that our kids will look healthier when they get home from summer camps. However, it’s not only the look that will change, but the attitude, as they will be “unplugged from technologies like TVs, video games, iPads and laptops,” says Baptiste.

“They will have more independence and confidence,” he continues. “The camps will provide an opportunity for harmonious growth, and support children in acquiring better social skills and interest in the great outdoors”.

For those who are still hesitant, consider the words of The Search Intitute’s Dr. Peter Scales, a developmental psychologist and researcher on the positive development of children and youth.

“The biggest plus is that camps help young people discover and explore their talents, interests, and values,” he says. “Most schools don’t satisfy all these needs. Kids who have had these kinds of experiences end up being healthier and have less of the problems which concern us all.” — Vu Ha Kim Vy

Information AsiaMotions has an experienced, multicultural team and has organised school trips each year for international schools in Vietnam for over 2,000 students with ages from 7 to 17. The team is trained on in safety measures and first aid, and has all the necessary certifications to run outdoor and camp activities.

From Jun. 6 to Jul. 22, AsiaMotions is hosting their five-day summer camps for kids aged seven to 15 in Madagui, a town on the edge of Nam Cat Tien National Park, three hours north of Saigon.

Click on asia-motions.com/summercamps/ or email paul@asia-motions. com for more info

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 23

Briefings HCMC

The Hospital FV have just been awarded the premier international credential for healthcare facilities. So what exactly does this mean?

T

he French-Vietnamese Hospital, or FV as they’re now known, long struggled with one inescapable fact. They were for many years the only ‘international’ standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City. This meant that when they got things right, which was the vast majority of the time, not a word was said — it was expected. But at the hint of an error, they met the apocalypse.

Fortunately for the District 7 institution, there are now other hospitals heading towards worldwide standards. Not only is this good for FV — competition means they have to improve and are no longer observed by the watching masses through a microscope — but it is also good for the 10 million-plus population of this city.

More hospital options means more choice and most importantly, better-quality healthcare.

FV have responded to increased competition by raising the bar, and after years of preparation have received

24 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

the Gold Seal of Approval from Joint Commission International (JCI). An organisation that “works to improve patient safety and quality of health care in the international community”, JCI not only offers education, publications and advisory services, but international accreditation and certification.

This means, says FV director Dr. JeanMarcel Guillon, that the quality of doctors and nurses will improve, or as he describes it, being “JCI-accredited attracts the best professionals.”

He adds: “Our recruitment criteria and the recruitment process have had to become even more stringent than before, because we have to ensure to our patients that our doctors have the right credentials, skills and experience.”

Compliance The process of getting accredited, as it is in all industries, is long and often complicated, because complying with a

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY FV

new set of standards requires making a number of changes to daily practice and procedures.

According to Dr. Guillon, it means “changing the culture of the staff and doctors, putting patient safety first, making sure that patient rights are respected, using evidence-based medicine, respecting medical and corporate ethics at all times, making sure the facility is safe and perfectly maintained and so much more. It’s not easy.”

He adds: “We had to raise our level considerably to guarantee patient safety, improve outcomes, and improve the way we take care of and treat patients. There are benefits everywhere — it permeates the entire hospital.”

The accreditation process meant writing programmes for the likes of infection and and quality control, as well as hundreds of policies and procedures. It also meant training staff and ensuring that checks and balances were put in place to monitor

compliance. For this FV put together a task force of 65 people “who acted like surveyors”. Together they did ‘tracers’ on patients — following the patient from the moment they entered A&E until the moment they were discharged — and reviewed the knowledge and compliance of all staff.

Quality The result of being accredited goes beyond just what FV can offer to patients. It’s also about the staff themselves, says Dr. Guillon, as it “gives a feeling of prestige, reinforces team spirit, and acts as a motivator.”

He adds: “The quality journey is a real journey — you don’t stop because you’ve got to a milestone. First you have to maintain the same level to get reaccredited, but also JCI always comes up with new standards so you always have to get better. So in that journey there are other milestones. For example we are

already working as being recognised by the WHO as a Mother and Baby Friendly Hospital, and we are working to become a ‘pain-free hospital’.”

So does this mean that FV is unequivocally the best international hospital in Vietnam? Dr. Guillon refuses to be drawn on this question. All he says is, “We’re definitely among the best, but I’ll let our patients decide that.” — Nick Ross

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 25

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wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 27

Sports Digest

Stick Up

While Vietnam is known for prowess in many sports, field hockey is not one of them. But Malaysian expat James Chew aims to change all that.

Words by Harry Hodge

Images of a recent match between Vietnam and Malaysia

V

ietnam sent its first national team to Singapore’s recent World Hockey League tournament.

While the local players were outclassed in their first major international event, Chew believes it gave them good experience as they look to more competition abroad. As president of Vietnam Hockey, Chew has more than passing interest in the sport’s success.

“We were there to gain experience to prepare for next year's SEA Games in Kuala Lumpur,” he says. “The hockey world league is too tough for the fledgling Vietnam hockey team, but we learnt a lot from the tournament. All the teams there have at least 30 years of hockey history, whereas the national team of Vietnam only started in 2013.”

28 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

For context, China won the tournament, but they are ranked No. 19 in the world, with a team of full-time hockey players based in their own sports academy.

“For Vietnam there is no funding, (but) that is only one of the reasons,” Chew adds.

Field hockey is a team-based sport played on artificial turf or grass, depending on the competition level. The game is played with two teams, each having 10 players on the field and one goalkeeper. A game consists of 35-minute halves with a five to 10-minute break between the halves.

Chew is hoping that some steady local competition will help grow the sport and improve results for the national team, and explains that Vietnam Hockey is starting a hockey league in Saigon to give players more training and experience. The new

league is currently seeking a sponsor, with the opportunity to attach a brand to the league for naming rights. At the moment, national team members train at the Vietnam Hockey Centre in Ben Luc, south of Ho Chi Minh City.

“The objective is to get more people in Vietnam to play hockey,” says Chew. “It’s crucial [to growing the sport].”

Later in the year, a Vietnam Hockey Festival is being planned for early November as another measure to provide more exposure.

Anyone interested in playing field hockey in Saigon, or interested in opportunities with the new league, can contact James Chew on 0938 889899 or via email at jameschewjockbeng@ gmail.com. For further info click on vietnamhockey.com or go to Vietnam Hockey on Facebook

California Prospect Camp Scouts VBA Talent With the fledgling Vietnam Basketball Association (VBA) set to launch in August, league representatives recently staged a tryout camp to fill out its rosters with overseas Vietnamese hoopsters.

Each VBA team will consist of one world import player, two Vietnamese heritage players, and 10 Vietnamese local players. In preparation for VBA, Saigon Heat CEO and VBA representative Connor Nguyen went to Fullerton, California, to host a tryout in late May to find Vietnamese heritage players, defined as players having at least one parent or grandparent that were Vietnamese or born in Vietnam.

Also in attendance were Vietnam national team and Saigon Heat coach Anthony Garbelotto, and assistant Coach Dave Singleton. There is also a special appearance by top Vietnamese heritage player David Viet Arnold who was on hand to give guidance to new potential heritage players.

Tokyo FC Bounces Becamex Binh Duong from Champions League Ryoichi Maeda’s double helped FC Tokyo get through to the last 16 of the AFC Champions League after a 2-1 victory over Vietnam’s Becamex Binh Duong in Group E earlier last month.

Desperate for a win to secure a place in the knockout stage, Tokyo took the lead in the 20th minute at Go Dau Stadium. Maeda then scored his second goal with a fine strike 10 minutes into the second half.

In the 68th minute, Le Cong Vinh’s penalty, after Yuichi Maruyama brought down Cameroonian striker Nsi Amougou Christian, gave the hosts some hope. He also struck the bar and missed two later chances.

Sailing Race Makes Phu Quoc Debut

PHOTOS BY MANN RENZEF

A yacht race was held for the first time last month on Phu Quoc Island off Vietnam’s southern province of Kien Giang.

The race kicked off at Dinh Cau Beach in Duong Dong Town. It was jointly organised by the Kien Giang Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism and Thien Vu Advertisement Joint Stock Company, as part of the activities to celebrate the 2016 National Tourism Year. The race attracted 27

teams with a total of 54 local and foreign contestants.

Contestants sailed twin-hull catamarans manufactured by the Vietnam-Czech Joint Stock Company.

According to the organisers, the event was intended to promote sailing not only in Kien Giang but also other coastal cities and provinces. It was also seen as a chance for amateur and professional athletes to meet and share their personal experience in practicing the sport. Nearly 1,000 people came to the kickoff event to watch and cheer the contestants.

Europeans Top Podium in Ironman France’s Cyril Viennot and Switzerland’s Caroline Steffen took the men’s and women’s titles, respectively, of the VNG Ironman 70.3 Vietnam 2016 in Danang last month.

Viennot, who finished fourth last year, clocked a time of 3hr 54min 9sec to win the men’s title, with Tim Van Berkel, from Australia, coming in second and fellow countryman Luke McKenzie arriving in third, just five minutes of the pace.

Swiss athlete Caroline Steffen, who won the VNG Ironman 70.3 Vietnam in 2015, defended her title in this second edition of the race in a time of 4hr 12min 18sec. Czech Radka Vodickova finished second while Liz Blatchford ranked third after finishing in 4hr 19min 46sec.

Steffen said it was a tough race for her this year as defending champion.

“Winning the title is hard, but defending it is even harder,” she said. “I’m very happy to win again in Vietnam. I had a good start with swimming and a good run after a bike race in very hot conditions.”

Steffen said she would donate to Newborn Vietnam — a programme to reduce deaths of newborn babies in the country — from an auction of her souvenirs this year.

VNG Ironman 70.3 Vietnam 2016 drew over 1,100 athletes representing 60 countries, including more than 25 professional triathletes and 50 relay teams. Athletes completed a 1.9km ocean swim, a tes upda ur 90km bike d n e o S out y p or race and a ab g grou @ 21km run in ry o sp rtnt to har .com along the m e ev vietna coastline of word Danang.

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 29

ToDo list HCMC

Dancing, wine, music festivals, wire sculpting, summer camp and of course, comedy

1

Work by renowned Vietnam artist, Nguyen Thanh Binh. He will be exhibiting this month at Craig Thomas Gallery

DJ Fulbert will be playing at Observatory in early June

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Storytelling Saigon is bringing a new, on-stage performance format to Saigon

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Hometown by Nguyen Tan Binh Craig Thomas Gallery, Q1 Until Jun. 22 Saigon painter, Nguyen Thanh Binh is exhibiting 15 new pieces of his work at Craig Thomas Gallery. The renowned artist, who is famous for his oil paintings, will be displaying his solo collection Hometown until Jun. 22.

Nguyen Thanh Binh has been receiving international acclaim and has exhibited his work across Asia, Europe and the United States.

“I’m not trying to follow any trends,” he says. “I’m just searching for beauty as I see it; a beauty for everyone. The structure in my paintings tells the viewer many things beyond the surface. The aim in my work is to condense the narrative.”

Craig Thomas Gallery is located at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC.

30 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

For more information, please visit cthomasgallery.com

Fulbert Observatory, Q4 Friday, Jun. 3 A rising force on the resurgent European House scene, Fulbert is returning to Observatory to lay down some law, as well as his refined approach to moving a dance floor.

Support comes from Nic Ford.

Doors are at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm and VND150,000 thereafter.

The Observatory is at 5, Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Storytelling Saigon La Fenetre Soleil, Q1 Saturday, Jun. 4 Got a story to tell? Know someone

who has an amazing story? Say the organisers of this new night, “Let's hear it!!!!”

As humans, we love stories. They have been shared in every culture as a means of entertainment, education, cultural preservation and instilling moral values. Now is your chance to hear and see people’s personal tales in an on-stage format yet to be tried out in Vietnam. Narrated by a wide variety of people from different backgrounds, this should be a fascinating night and one certainly not to be missed.

Doors are at 8.30pm and the show will start at 9pm. To avoid interruptions, doors will be closed until the interval at 9.40pm. Entrance is free of charge. To get an idea of what to expect, click on themoth.org or radiolab. org. La Fenetre Soleil is at 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC

ToDo list HCMC

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Saigonella Art and Music Festival

Sweet B are one of the acts performing at this month’s music and arts festival, Saigonella

The Vietnam International Coffee and Dessert Fair will take place from Jun. 8 to Jun. 10

Acclaimed musician Geva Alon will be playing at Saigon Ranger on Jun. 9 and Jun. 10

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Club House Tan Thuan, Q7 Saturday, Jun. 4 This June Saigon is getting its own music festival. A celebration of art, electronic music and community, Saigonella is the festival on your doorstep in District 7. Partnering with Clean Up Vietnam, the organisers are working hard to respect the environment while giving you a new venue to get your dancing shoes dirty.

There will be an assortment of musicians playing throughout the day. The Main Stage will be hosting NDM, Souk Le Soleil, Datodeo, Dimitri, Sweet B. & Phonic D, Le Seed, Youss and more. There will be more artists as well performing at the Garden Stage, and a load of acts to be announced soon.

In addition there will be a balance of relaxation areas and party at the stages, so that anyone can find nonstop fun events over the course of the afternoon and evening. These will include a BBQ, a market, a recycling workshop, an art exhibition from Jack Clayton, theatre, tree planting

by Cyp, African dance, drum workshops and much more.

Saigonella Art and Music Festival is on Saturday, Jun. 4. Tickets are available at ticketbox.vn, or from Le Bouchon de Saigon (40 Thai Van Lung,

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Q1, HCMC), Kokois (24 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC) and Pitchers Sports and Grill (C0.01 Riverside Residence, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, HCMC). The festival will be held at the Club House, 22 Sang Tao, Q7, HCMC and ticket prices start at VND250,000. For more information email saigonella@gmail. com or click on facebook.com/saigonella

Saigon Summer Ball Park Hyatt Hotel, Q1 Saturday, Jun. 4 To celebrate midsummer, Saigon Children’s Charity is holding its 7th Annual Saigon Summer Ball on Saturday, Jun. 4. Held to raise important funds for their work with disadvantaged children, since its inception in 2009, the Saigon Children’s Charity Summer Ball has raised almost US$370,000 to support their work in Vietnam.

Bringing together many key people from both the international and Vietnamese social and business worlds, the event is designed to be a night of great celebration and style, with the added benefit of raising much needed funds. Tickets are already selling fast so, book quickly.

For ticket bookings, please email saigonsummerball@saigonchildren.com or call 0901 393502 or (08) 3930 3502.

Tickets are priced at VND3,800,000 per person or VND38 million for a table of 10

Vietnam International Coffee and Dessert Fair SECC, Q7 Wednesday, Jun. 8 to Friday, Jun. 10 Coffee addicts and everyone with a sweet tooth, listen up: this June there will be a two-day Vietnam International Coffee and Dessert Fair in Ho Chi Minh City. This exhibition is an opportunity for importers, exporters, consumers and retail businesses to get together and bask in the glory of coffee beans and sugar.

There will be a host of events and specials during the exhibition including the Vietnam Super Barista Championship, a one-day class programme, biz matching and lucky bags.

SECC is located at 799 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, HCMC and runs from 10am to 5pm. For more info click on vietcoffeefair.com/en

Geva Alon Saigon Ranger, Q1 Jun. 9 and Jun. 10 The critically acclaimed musician, Geva Alon, will be playing at Saigon Ranger for two nights on Jun. 9 and Jun. 10.

A household name in his native Israel, the guitarist and singer songwriter often compared to Neil Young will be taking to the

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 33

ToDo list HCMC

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Drink and paint at the same time with Canvas and Wine

Renowned DJ and producer Young Marco will play at Observatory

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Phu Quoc holds its first international marathon

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3 stage with his newly formed band, Vegan Friendly.

Having toured with the likes of Macy Gray and Paul Weller, Geva has worked extensively with famed producer Thom Monahan (Devendra Banhart, Vetiver, Silver Jews, Dinosaur Jr, Jayhawks).

However, his latest project with Vegan Friendly will mean a lot of new material, composed and arranged over the past few months.

This will be Geva’s first time in Vietnam and it should be quite a show.

Geva Alon’s Vegan Friendly band is made up of Geva Alon on guitars and vocal, Jango on bass and vocals, and Assaf Riess on drums. They will be playing at Saigon Ranger on Thursday, Jun. 9 and Friday Jun. 10. Tickets are available on ticketbox.vn. To listen to his music, do a search on YouTube for Geva Alon

course for the Phu Quoc Marathon has been created that combines running with national park scenery and views of the ocean. Plotted through the southern half of the island along one of the most scenic stretches of beaches in South East Asia, many events are scheduled — the main race of 42km (Full Marathon), plus the shorter 21km (Half Marathon), 10km, 5km and a 1km kids race, all finishing inside the grounds of Long Beach Resort Phu Quoc, where athletes are welcome to run straight into the refreshing ocean.

If you haven’t registered, then come along and cheer on the runners. If you do want to put in a late entry, then click on sportingrepublic/phuquocmarathon

Phu Quoc International Marathon

Observatory, Q4 Saturday, Jun. 11

Phu Quoc Island Saturday, Jun. 11

Young Marco is a name many will have heard before and this night is a chance to hear exactly what makes this Dutchman the formidable DJ and

Tagged the ‘Run in Paradise’, a

34 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Young Marco

producer he is known as globally.

This will be one of the highlights of the month. Support comes from Nic Ford and Hibiya Line.

Doors are at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm and VND150,000 thereafter. The Observatory is at 5, Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Canvas and Wine: Wire Sculpture Night VinSpace, Q2 Thursday, Jun. 16 Ever wanted to let your imagination wild and create 3D sculptures? Vin Gallery is hosting a wire sculpture night where they will guide you through the process of drawing in three dimensions by bending, weaving, pinching and spiralling wire. Using this versatile and flexible material is extremely satisfying, especially with a good glass of wine in hand.

VinSpace is located at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC. For enquiries contact the gallery on 0907 729846 or find them online at vin-space.com/canvas-and-wine/

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 35

ToDo list HCMC

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Jimmy ‘The Whirlwind’ White

Dicky Trisco’s coming to town again. Oh yes!

VinSpace’s summer camps start in late June and run until the end of August

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Snooker legend Jimmy White is playing an exhibition match on Jun. 17

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Evita, Q2 Friday, Jun. 17 If you know your snooker, you’ll know Jimmy White, one of the legends of the game. The winner of 30 international tournaments (including the world title) and former number two in the world, for one night only the man himself will be playing in an exhibition nine-ball pool event against Vietnam champion, Luong Chi Dung at Evita Bistronomie in District 2.

Tickets for two are going for VND3.9 million and include a three-course dinner for two, coffee, a bottle of wine, a signed hardback copy of Jimmy’s latest book, Second Wind, and a framed photograph.

This is a unique, not-to-miss event, so grab your tickets early.

01203 458205 or email events@oibme. com. Evita is at 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC. The event kicks off at 6.30pm

Aquatuki Observatory, Q4 Friday, Jun. 17 Live performance involving guitars,

36 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

synthesizers and drum machines from this experientially-focused group from Japan. Support comes from Hibiya Line.

Doors are at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm and VND100,000 thereafter. The Observatory is at 5, Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

VinSpace Summer Camp VinSpace, Q2 Jun. 20 to Aug. 26 Summer is quickly approaching, but VinSpace has an arts-based summer camp ready for your children to keep them entertained all morning.

Offering a world tour of creativity, the camp will run with a schedule themed on different locations each week, showing a whole planet’s worth of culture and creative fun.

The summer programme offers a mixture of group activities, different mediums, and three hours’ worth of arts and craft entertainment and learning every day. The program is run by instructors who speak fluent English.

VinSpace Summer Camp runs from Jun. 20 to Aug. 26 from 9am to 12pm, Monday to Friday. VinSpace is located at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC. For enquiries contact the gallery on 0907

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Dicky Trisco Observatory, Q4 Friday, Jun. 24 Disco deviant, dance floor commander and all-round master of sound, Dicky Trisco is back to shake our tail feathers.

Big time! Support comes from Nic Ford.

Doors are at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm and VND150,000 thereafter. The Observatory is at 5, Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

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ToDo list HCMC

1

2

3

A Night with Will Mars

Acclaimed UK comic Will Mars will be playing at Game On on Jun. 29

The BBGV’s third installment of their annual football tournament takes place on Jul. 16

Sierra Sam and Pascal Hetzel, coming soon to a place near you

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Game On Saigon, Q1 Wednesday, Jun. 29 Saigon International Comedy really upped the ante last month with Turner Sparks, MC Chris Wegoda and comics from the local scene bellysplitting a full house. For June, expect it to go into lift off mode, thanks to a comic living on a diet of rocket fuel, Will Mars. You want explosive? This guy’s nuclear.

A British Comedian living in New York, Will’s first solo Asia tour Schtick Shift will take in Singapore, Malaysia, Hong Kong, China, Thailand, Indonesia and of course Vietnam.

And expect it to be a good ‘un. This guy’s got some serious accolades stitched onto his t-shirt: Finalist in the English Comedian of the year Award 2014; Top 50 Best Ever Jokes at the Edinburgh Fringe (The Scotsman); Top 50 Funniest One-Liners Ever (Daily Mail); Top 10 Funniest Jokes of the Edinburgh Fringe (Dave TV).

He’s even got a few quotes to back up all the hype: “Took the room to a new level with lines that defy you not to laugh” — BBC1 Spotlight and “Punctures an expectation and implies a whole bizarre reality” — The Guardian.

Interested? You’d better be. And to make this a night to remember,

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the organisers are bringing back the much-loved Singaporean comic, Jinx Yeo. If you were there the night he performed last year, you’ll remember how funny this guy is.

Will Mars will be playing at Game On Saigon, 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, HCMC. Entrance is VND200,000 and doors are at 8pm. For more info or table reservations, email nick@ saigoninternationalcomedy.com

BBGV Football Tournament RMIT University, Q7 Saturday, Jul. 16 BBGV are accepting sponsorship and team registration for the 3rd InterCompany Football Tournament for Charity in Ho Chi Minh City.

This seven-a-side competition will bring 16 teams together to compete for the championship title. Colleagues, families, sponsors, associates and volunteers will support and cheer on the football teams throughout the day, while raising funds for registered charities across Vietnam.

After two successful tournaments in 2014 and 2015 with over 700 participants and almost VND400 million in proceeds going to good causes, don’t miss out on the third opportunity for a day of fun, football and fundraising.

The tournament will take place at

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, HCMC from 8.30am to 5pm. If you are interested in participating, please contact Nga at nga.nguyen@bbgv.org or call (08) 3829 8430 by Jun. 16

Danang Marathon Bien Dong Park, Danang Saturday, Aug. 6 Get your running shoes on and start training because the Danang International Marathon is back. There are four distances available meaning that everyone can get involved; full marathon, half marathon, 10km and 5km fun run for charity.

The Danang International Marathon is the first professional marathon in Vietnam certified

by IAAF AIMS (International Assication of Athletics Federations and Association of International Marathons and Distance Races).

Prepare yourself for the gorgeous scenery of Danang city, from the beautiful beaches and coastline to the mountain views, and the city exploration, you will see some of the most beautiful sights all during sunrise.

The Danang International Marathon will take place at Bien Dong Park, Saturday Aug. 6. For more info, please contact info@pulse.vn or visit rundanang.com

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 39

IN

Just HCMC

Art contests, rescued wildlife, new flight routes and Baba’s Kitchen in Hoi An 1

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New additions to Anupa’s Love of Details collection

The Saigon-Vung Tau hydrofoil service gets itself three new boats

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The Owston’s civet

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Westcoast has now opened up premises in District 2

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Westcoast Dental Has Moved Westcoast Dental Studio has recently moved to Thao Dien from its clinic on Dong Khoi. The international team of dentists will now be providing the full range of dental services in District 2.

The Thao Dien clinic is open 9am to 6pm, Monday to Friday, and 9am to 12pm on Saturday.

Westcoast is now located at 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, Q2, HCMC. For more info click on westcoastinternational.com or call (08) 3519 1777

First Owston’s Civet Rescue in 14 Years An Owston’s Civet who had been kept as a pet in Dong Nai province since 2014 has been successfully rescued and voluntarily handed over to Save Vietnam’s Wildlife by its former owner.

40 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

The Owston’s Civet (chrotogate owstoni) is the rarest of the civet species in Vietnam and has been prioritised for protection by the government. Luu Quang Mat, who bought two Owston’s Civets in 2014 from a local hunter, raised them without knowing they were a prohibited species. After the death of one of the civets due to weakness, he decided to hand in the second civet.

The Carnivore and Pangolin Conservation Program (CPCP) and Save Vietnam’s Wildlife will work to monitor the animal to ensure it is in full health before releasing it back to the wild.

For more info click on savevietnamswildlife.org

Love of Details Collection Coming this June at Anupa

boutique it is all about the details.

Fresh into Ho Chi Minh City are Simone Irani’s Neon Sandals straight from India. These gorgeous shoes are available in large sizes, and are totally unique; out of the one billion people in India, only Simone Irani is contemporising the traditional Indian sandal into neon colours. Each pair costs VND1.1 million.

Also on now in stock are Miguel La Salle leather cuffs. Each of these is made by hand using two different colours of leather and promise to help you complete any outfit. Small cuffs cost VND990,000 and large cuffs cost VND1.1 million.

Anupa Boutique is located at 9 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC, and 8 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, HCMC. For more info click on anupa.net

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MOVING?

New Boat to Vung Tau After being beset by crashes and fires, the hydrofoils from Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau are getting an upgrade courtesy of one of the operators, Green Lines.

The new catamarans cost about US$1 million each and run on German-built engines.

The journey time to Vung Tau is still one hour and 15 minutes, while the price per adult is VND250,000. However, most important is the safety factor.

Departing three times a day during the week, and four times a day at weekends, you can rely on these boats to get you to your destination in one piece — the previous vessels are well over 40 years old.

Call Us

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SAIGON SCOOTER 1/4 BLEED PREVEIW 1

IN

Just HCMC

1

GreeOx is growing and supplying clean, uncontaminated vegetables to your door

The winners of this year’s Smiles Art Contest

Laucala Island in Fiji. Now you can fly there from Vietnam via Singapore. Tempting!

Baba’s brings their excellent Indian cuisine to Hoi An

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GreeOx Worried about contaminated vegetables? GreeOx is bringing their fresh and safe vegetables direct to your door.

Founded in 2012 in the U.S, and launched in Saigon two years ago, GreeOx has developed an automated growing unit, which allows vegetables to be grown anywhere, anytime of the year.

These units are shipping containers called ‘Grobim’, where plants are stacked on top each other with the water, temperature, humidity and other variables controlled to ensure perfect growing conditions.

GreeOx offers various membership packages for individuals and groups. Simply sign up, pay the subscription fee and give your address. A box of fresh and clean vegetables will be delivered to you each week or

42 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

month for less than the half of the price the same products would cost in a supermarket.

GreeOx is at 36/30 D2 Street, Binh Thanh. Call 0902 917771 for more info

Smiles Art Contest 2016 Westcoast International Dental Clinic organises their annual Smiles Art contest to create dental awareness among children, and now this year’s results are in.

The 2016 competition, however, came with a little twist: the entrants had to create drawings on the theme of “Superhero Saves Teeth”. Hundreds of beautiful, creative entries later from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Westcoast have chosen their winners. They are: Grand Prize. The iPad Air 2 this year went to Trinh Khoa, Class 3K,

European International School 2nd Place. The Playstation 4 was won by Vo Ngoc Diep, Class 2B, American International School 3rd Place. The camera was won

by Joonwoo Lee, Class 2H, ABC International School For more info click on westcoastinternational.com

Flights from Vietnam to the Pacific Islands Despite their proximity to Southeast Asia, in the past flights to the Pacific Islands have all been run via Australia and New Zealand.

This has now all changed thanks to a new partnership between Fiji Airways and Jetstar. Flying via Singapore, you can now fly from Vietnam to Nadi in Fiji and onwards into the South Pacific on one single ticket.

3 With twice-weekly direct flights from Fiji to Singapore, Fiji Airways and Jetstar customers will be able to book flights and check-through baggage when purchasing tickets from Fiji Airways’ sales channels, including its website, online travel sites, sales offices and reservation centres.

For more info or to book your flights, click on fijiairways.com 4

Baba’s Kitchen in Hoi An That arbiter of great South and North Indian cuisine, Baba’s Kitchen, has now opened its doors in Hoi An, perfect for when you get tired of all that cao lau and Hoi An chicken rice you’ve been stuffing down your throat.

Serving up the same menu as this institution offers up in Saigon, vindaloos, jalfrazis, masalas and tandoor-style tikkas and kebabs share menu space with dosas, vadas and uthappam, with most meat dishes costing around the VND100,000 mark.

So when you’re next in the tourism capital of Vietnam, you know where to run to escape all that culture and all those package tourists.

Baba’s Kitchen is at 115 Phan Chu Trinh, Cam Pho, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 653 1999

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 43

ToDo

listHanoi

Exhibitions, surreal Japanese bands, cooking classes, Afrobeat and a comedian from Mars.

There’s a lot to look forward to this month!

Films from the Berlin Festival Goethe-Institut, Ba Dinh Jun. 2 and Jun. 3 The institute will present nine films from five countries, which were all part of the Berlinale Shorts 2015. The Berlinale Shorts is the short film programme of the Berlin International Film Festival.

The offerings vary from documentaries to fictional stories, to animated movies. Central themes are personal life stories and rituals, portraying longing, love, cruelty and absurdism. Some of the films give thought-provoking impulses, others open up a whole new world to the viewer. They show life on another planet, but also the earthly dangers emanating from humans and the power of nature.

The Goethe-Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. The event kicks off at 7pm and entrance is free.

For info, click on goethe.de/ins/vn/en/ or email thuha.dang@hanoi.goethe.org

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My Little Happiness

5. Chef Ming from the JW Marriott

4. French DJ Fulbert is playing at ATK in early June

A wall of art by artist, Dinh Y Nhi, who is exhibiting at Art Vietnam this month

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3.Franz Scala plays ATK

A still from the movie short, Another City

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Art Vietnam Gallery, Hoan Kiem Jun. 3 to Jul. 1 Art Vietnam will present the new works of Dinh Y Nhi. One of Vietnam’s most celebrated female artists, Nhi dared to confront convention and break with traditional feminine expression in 1995 with her stark black-and-white stick figures on paper and their bold stance facing the world.

This latest body of work, My Little Happiness, is a meditation on life, on treasuring every solitary moment.

Art Vietnam Gallery is at 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. The exhibition runs until Jul. 1

Slow Motion Italian Dance Wave CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Jun. 3 Franz Scala is the head of Slow Motion, an Italian dance label based in Berlin. Aside from producing on his own imprint, he has releases on

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4 World Unknown, Tusk Wax and Bordello a Parigi. He has showcased producers such as Beppe Loda, Francisco and Ajello. He also promotes many events around the German capital such as the monthly Wrong Era parties or the Magic Waves Festival.

And now he is heading to Hanoi.

Prepare yourself for a night of Italian, hedonistic fun.

CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm and entrance is free of charge

Cocoon Wrapped in ACCV Hanoi Rock City, Tay Ho Jun. 3 to Jun. 4 Part of the upcoming Australian

Charity for Children in Vietnam (ACCV) event at Hanoi Rock City will be a performing arts play called Cocoon. According to the producers, Cocoon “is an independent production that delicately merges contemporary dance and theatre to give an honest account of life and the intrinsic nature of light and darkness within it.” Following the play itself, Hanoi Rock City will be host to a variety of artistic expression performances, including theatre, poetry, magic, comedy, music and more.

Hanoi Rock City is at 27 Ngo 52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For more info click on the official HRC Facebook page — facebook.com/pages/ Hanoi-Rock-City/529653453748632

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Once reserved exclusively for royalty, tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences.

Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy.

Fulbert CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Saturday, Jun. 4 Timothée Victorri (aka Fulbert) is a young French DJ with a wide range of skills. As well as being a DJ and producer, Fulbert is also the owner of his own record label, Rawthenticity. He has been DJing for a long time but it was his 2011 EP Garden State 92 that pushed him into the spotlight. His mixes are meticulous and diversified and you never know where the set he is playing will take you to.

That range of different styles is present in his productions, where he is capable of releasing four tracks on the same EP with totally

different vibes.

Expect something a little special during his show at ATK. Not one to miss.

CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA

Chinese Cooking Class at Marriott JW Marriott, Tu Liem Jun. 4, 11, 18 and 25

THE FRASER COLLECTION BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)

Each Saturday in June, from 2pm to 3pm, every guest dining in the Crystal Jade Palace restaurant will have an opportunity to learn cooking from the best, as Chef Ming from Crystal Jade Palace hosts

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 45

ToDo

listHanoi

1

5. The Hanoi New Music Ensemble will be experimenting with music at the Goethe-Institut

4. Bangkok-based Delfin Solomon will be playing at being a comedian at Signal Flair

Saxophone duo Halfsound will be blowing the audience to smithereens at Manzi

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3. Japanese band Aquatuki need no photos. A logo will suffice (they’re playing at ATK, by the way

Art For You returns in early June, this time to a larger venue

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a unique cooking class to share his years of knowledge and passion.

To win a seat at this special class, guests need only fill in the lucky draw form.

For further information, please contact (04) 3833 5588. The JW Marriott is at 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, South Tu Liem, Hanoi

Affordable Art for You Exhibition Centre for Fine Art and Photography, Hoan Kiem Jun. 5 to Jun. 12 Art For You, the affordable art fair organised by Manzi Art Space and Work Room Four, is hosting its latest exhibition geared towards selling locally produced art at prices the majority can afford. The idea is to remove the sometimes elitist nature of more traditional art gallery sales. So popular have the previous events been, that Art For You has now moved to a larger space.

The exhibition will offer work created by over 100 artists, showing over 300 works of art.

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Artists are specifically requested to examine their repertoire and select older, unsold works, preparatory sketches and smaller prints or photography (and create new work) that they feel is good value.

Prices start at US$25.

The Exhibition Centre for Fine Art and Photography is at 29 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. The exhibition will be open daily from 10am to 8pm

Saxophone Duo Blows In Manzi, Ba Dinh Thursday, Jun. 9 Halfsound, a contemporary saxophone duo from Melbourne, Australia, will appear at Manzi as part of a series of concerts for saxophone duos and electronics composed by 10 young Australian composers. With a particular interest in the new and experimental music of Southeast Asia, the duo undertook an extended self-directed residency in Hanoi from 2014 to 2015.

This one should be very, very interesting.

Entry is free, but due to limited seating capacity, prior registration is advised.

Email manzihanoi@gmail.com to reserve your seats. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. The show kicks off at 8pm

Aqatuki CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Saturday, Jun. 18 Space is the place as sonic astronauts Aqatuki make their Hanoi debut at CAMA ATK on Jun. 18. Inspired by the industrial futurescape of their home town Amagasaki, the Japanese fourpiece meld psych-rock, dub and electronica in a sprawling astral groove that is guaranteed to get feet moving. With bright guitars, an undercurrent of blues and a nod to the summer soul of Shuggie Otis, Aqatuki are as uplifting and intoxicating as they are eclectic.

Definitely one show not to miss this month.

AQATUKI will be taking flight at CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm.

Entrance TBA.

Signal Flair Hanoi Rock City, Tay Ho Saturday, Jun. 18

4

Signal Flair makes its debut in Hanoi, promising an evening of live art, film screenings, spoken word poetry and stand-up comedy, followed by live music and a party. The event borrows from the established night held in Bangkok.

Performers include DJ Nemo, Unda, Leroy Jenkonius (creator of the Sallsavage EP), Tien Dung, Delfin Solomon, Bedroom Poet and Ngot. Entrance is VND100,000 and includes one free drink, either Magners Irish Cider or Heverlee Belgium Beer.

The event starts at 7pm and goes on to 2am. Hanoi Rock City is at 27 Ngo 52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Contemporary Music Concert Goethe-Institut, Ba Dinh Jun. 18 and Jun. 19

5

The Goethe-Institut Hanoi and DomDom, the hub for experimental music and art, are presenting a concert by the Hanoi New Music Ensemble (HNME), which was founded in 2015 by the initiative of the composer Vu Nhat Tan, violinist Pham Truong Son and American conductor Jeff von der Schmidt. The new group is eager to bring Vietnamese and international contemporary music to a broad Vietnamese public.

The concert kicks off at 7pm and the Goethe-Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi.

Admission is free of charge. For more info email kimchung.pham@hanoi. goethe.org

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 47

ToDo

listHanoi

1

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Wave from Africa

Afrobeat makes a beeline to ATK at the end of June

British comic Will Mars is descending on our fine city. Better get ready for lift off!

Be prepared! The Hanoi Vertical Run is coming next month

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CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Saturday, Jun. 25 Saigon-based DJ Dan Lo will be bringing his West African Waves set to ATK, with sounds ranging from traditional percussive rhythms from Cameroon and the funk of 1960s Ghana and Benin, all the way through to Nigerian Afrobeat and its modern house-infused edits.

This will be one to make the room shake and the punters dance, nonstop. It’s gonna get sweaty.

CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi and doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA

A Night with Will Mars CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Thursday, Jun. 30 CAMA Comedy really upped the ante last month with Turner Sparks and MC Chris Wegoda bellysplitting a full house. For June,

48 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

expect it to go into lift off mode, thanks to a comic living on a diet of rocket fuel, Will Mars. You want explosive? This guy’s nuclear.

A British Comedian living in New York, Will’s first solo Asia tour Schtick Shift will take in Singapore, Malaysia, Hong Kong, China, Thailand, Indonesia and of course Vietnam.

And expect it to be a good ‘un. This guy’s got some serious accolades stitched onto his t-shirt: Finalist in the English Comedian of the year Award 2014; Top 50 Best Ever Jokes at the Edinburgh Fringe (The Scotsman); Top 50 Funniest One-Liners Ever (Daily Mail); Top 10 Funniest Jokes of the Edinburgh Fringe (Dave TV).

He’s even got a few quotes to back up all the hype: “Took the room to a new level with lines that defy you not to laugh” — BBC1 Spotlight and “Punctures an expectation and implies a whole bizarre reality” — The Guardian.

Interested? You’d better be.

Will Mars will be playing at CAMA

ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Entrance is VND200,000 and doors are at 8pm. For more info or table reservations, email danbuff@gmail.com

The Hanoi Vertical Run Landmark 72, My Dinh Saturday, Jul. 9 Registration is continuing for Vietnam’s highest stair climbing race, the Hanoi Vertical Run. Runners will embark upon the ascent of Vietnam’s tallest building, Landmark 72, facing the challenge of climbing 350 metres, 72 floors and 1,914 steps if they want to cross the finish line and enjoy the view at the top. Organisers Sporting Republic expect to attract the full complement of 500 runners across the various categories for the Jul. 9 event.

The participation fee is between US$20 and US$25 per person. To register and get more information, click on the event website: sportingrepublic. com/hanoiverticalrun

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IN

Just Hanoi

Hungry pigs, clothes shops, teacher and student apps and cocktail happy hours.

What’s new this month

Myriad & Dreamers The venue the used to be M Cafe has shifted gears. In a loft-like space off Au Co with lots of natural light flooding in, the owners have seen more potential in retail than coffee.

After a makeover, they now sell handcrafted home decor, finished with olive oil and beeswax, in the VND50,000 to VND200,000 range.

The top floor is packed with secondhand clothes, mostly for women, starting at around VND50,000 an item.

Myriad & Dreamers is at 1A Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi. The shop is open from from 9am to 9pm

PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS

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The Fat Pig. Need we say any more?

Angelina goes two for the price of one on cocktails

The Savant app matches teachers with students

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Oasis continues its expansion in West Lake

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O Douceur’s brings its patisserie-cum-café delights to West Lake

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Myriad & Dreamers is located on the space formerly occupied by M Café

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O Douceur’s The much-loved patisserie has expanded into Tay Ho, opening a new location off To Ngoc Van, just past Hanoi Rock City. It’s a tiny cafe with mostly outdoor seating, selling the same delicious made-to-order cakes and coffee that the brand is known for.

With coffee starting at VND20,000 and juices going for VND50,000, there is also a range of sandwiches available for around VND35,000, making this an affordable new option for those living and working in West Lake.

The new O Douceur’s is at 37/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi

2 PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS

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Oasis Takeaway Oasis has opened yet another off-shoot of their popular Italian grocery store. This one, on the corner of Xuan Dieu and Dang Thai Mai, does rotisserie chicken, homemade lasagna, and also boasts a salad bar takeaway, among much, much more.

A smorgasbord of deli-style delights, prices start at VND20,000 per 100 grammes. Delivery is free of charge.

Oasis Takeaway is at 57 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

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The Fat Pig Carnivores rejoice! That stretch of bars and restaurants running along the lake from Warehouse has just got itself another player, The Fat Pig. A southern BBQ-style eatery, the joint cooks up fresh cuts of pork, from brisket to shoulder to sausage. Ribs go for VND60,000, and an assortment of sides like okra tempura (VND60,000) and dirty fries (VND80,000)

complement the meat — perfect for all you vegetarians out there (sic!).

Open for dinner from 4.30pm to 11.30pm, The Fat Pig is at 74 Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Angelina Happy Hour Angelina at the Sofitel Metropole has a new summer cocktail menu for happy hour, between 4pm and 7pm every day, perfect for anyone

PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS

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PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS

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6 desperate to escape the Hanoi heat.

The summery and colourful flavours include Red Palace (red), Highroller (orange), Green Lake (green), Lazy Lover (clear, with lychee), Bulleit Que (with rosemary). All of which are available on a buy-one-get-onefree basis.

Also on sale are the bartender’s classic cocktail selection,

Angelina’s sommelier’s wine selection, imported and local beers.

Angelina is at the Sofitel Metropole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Savant Goes Mobile Developer TEFL Express has released an Android and iOSfriendly app which matches TEFL teachers to students in Hanoi and

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. The Savant app is a new approach to teaching and learning English and will be free to download and use. It gives users control of their teaching and learning experiences, matching students and teachers based on learning abilities, expertise, age and location.

The app is now available on the Apple App Store on devices above IOS 8.0, and Google Play.

Insider

Running the Hash / The Five Stages of Expat / How to Build a Tourist Town / Not Only Cheap, It’s Flea / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Fowl Play / Mystery Diner HCMC / Banh Trang Trang Bang / The Tourification of Tonsai / The Other Side of Maldives / Notes From Another City: The Hoi An Tourist Trap / The Motorbike Diaries Part 15 Photo by Jesse Meadows

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wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 53

Insider The running club obsessed with booze has been hitting the streets of Vietnam for more than a quarter of a century. Emily Petsko and Siân Kavanagh meet the runners behind the names and the drinkers behind the ample amounts of beer.

Photos by Jesse Meadows and Rodney Hughes

W

ith names like Sore Arse, Cunning Linguist and Donald Tramp, they’re quite the motley crew. The group, members of an international “drinking club with a running problem” called the Hash House Harriers, gathers once a week across Vietnam to run, walk and discover their way across Vietnam’s countryside.

They follow pre-set trails of flour or shredded paper laid by “hares” and only make one pit stop, as long as they can find the hidden beer.

The Hanoi chapter of Hash House Harriers will celebrate its 25th anniversary this October with a three-day hashing extravaganza outside of the city. Items on the agenda that weekend include a pubcrawl Friday night and party Saturday night, culminating in a “6:00 Sunday: get rid of hangover (not included in run fees)”.

The Saigon chapter was established back in August 1990, as legend goes, by three drunken expats in a pub. They took it upon themselves to set the first run and spread the news word-of-mouth. Now, 26 years and 1,346 odd runs later, the Saigon Hash is still jogging, sweating and drinking their way around the Southern Vietnamese countryside.

Hashing is part scavenger hunt, part run (or walk, if you’d prefer that) and part banter-filled drink fest. This killer combination makes for a tight-knit community that you can trace across the world. The beauty is that you can travel from Vietnam to Vienna to Antarctica, and still be able to find a Hash to keep your Sunday routine.

Hashing started in Malaysia expat community in the late 1930s as a motivational way to get them out of the city once a week and exercising. Hashing started its global takeover in the 1960s, and today most Hashes cater to local residents as well as expats.

The concept is for two “hares” to visit the site in advance and lay a trail, which typically winds through wooded areas, rice paddies and small neighborhoods. Fake, dead-end trails force the frontrunners (or fast running bastards) to double back, giving the group’s slower movers a chance to catch up. Hares can spend up to 10 hours the week before a Hash prepping the trail, and even then you can never quite predict what will happen the day of the run.

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INSIDER

NATIONAL

Running the Hash

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Hanoi Group members call each other by their “hash names”, playful and typically raunchy noms de guerre that are earned after racking up at least a half-dozen runs. Birth names are taboo, and members’ occupations and backgrounds are unimportant details.

For a group that takes pride in its rituals and formalities, however debauched they may be, the group isn’t exactly a secret society. It welcomes people of all ages and levels of fitness, and has a large group of walkers. That marks a departure from the original spirit of the Hanoi group, which was more of an “in-crowd”, according to the group’s longest-running member, “Van Dyke”, of the Netherlands.

“Rule number one, there’s no rules,” he says. “Rule number two, which we don’t have, is that everybody’s equal. We’ve been

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running with ambassadors, but you can still ‘charge’ them for stupid offenses or whatever. Nobody’s better than somebody else.”

Perhaps there are no rules, but there are punishable offences outlined by “hash lore”. One is to avoid wearing new shoes, or you’ll be forced to chug beer out of them.

Members must always wear hash-themed T-shirts and call members by their hash names if they’ve already been “baptised” by the group’s “religious advisor”, who conducts rituals and inaugurates new members.

A breach of the code can land you a “down down” — an order to down a cup or can of beer, or worse yet: having to sit on ice.

“Ice, ice, ice!” members chant at the “hare”, a young Vietnamese woman who

had marked the trail earlier and, after forgetting where she had dropped the next splotch of flour, got the walkers stuck in a maze-like neighbourhood cordoned off by identical brick walls.

The group’s “newly-erected” grandmaster “Rambo”, who hails from the US, is charged with “mismanaging” the group. He said they rarely run into problems, except for a recent weekend in Dong Hoi during one of their biannual extended trips. The police ordered them to stop running, so instead they toured caves and drank more beer.

“Sometimes the locals get a little bit ticked off when you’re going through their area, but that’s rare. Most of them just think we’re a bunch of silly foreigners running around,” he says, paying no mind to the

small group of locals who have gathered to watch.

On average, about 40 people attend each hash, which is held outside of Hanoi in the countryside. One Australian hasher known as “Madame Lash” was visiting Vietnam with her husband, “Flasher”, and they opted to join the Hanoi group one sunny Saturday.

She said their first port of call in any country is to check for a local hashing club.

As a former expat in Bali, she has hashed all over Asia, Canada and New Zealand for 28 years.

“You see so much more of the countryside than you do as a tourist,” she says. “You get to meet expats, locals, while you’re there. It’s just a great way to get in and socialise.”

“‘You see so much more of the countryside than you do as a tourist. You get to meet expats, locals, while you’re there. It’s just a great way to get in and socialise’”

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Saigon In a million years, I would never consider myself a runner. There are many activities, cardiovascular or not, that I would rather do than go for a run. It wasn’t until five minutes into the hash, stumbling along in the 35-degree heat in Dong Nai province, that I realized what I’d gotten myself into.

The day was hot on my skin even though it was 4pm and although most of the heat had started to leave the sunlight; the sweat wouldn’t stop rolling in big fat beads down my arms and forehead. “On on!” rippled the cries of the front-running bastards who lead us through fish farms, sandy paths, muddy ditches, and cool forest.

There are people who willingly come out and do this every Sunday, for the love of running, adventure, and the banter that comes with the chaotically disorganised Hash House Harriers. The Saigon hashers were nice enough to let me come and attempt to run along with them on their 1,346th run.

When I met up with Sijtze “Shithouse’”, the grandmaster of Saigon Hash, three days before my first hash, he was kind enough to help me through the somewhat complex web of understanding what goes down every Sunday.

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Firstly, at least in the Saigon chapter, every hasher is given a name after their 10th run to show commitment to the crew, or once they do something so fantastically stupid, that they have deserved their name prematurely. “You’re not meant to like your hash name, nor be proud of it, and you certainly should never ask for a new one,” explains Shithouse. “As the other hashers will deliberately make it worse than it was before.”

For this particular hash the bus was packed with 50 hashers, to the point were the latecomers were forced to stand or sit on Bui Vien-style red stools. The group riding out to Dong Nai was comprised equally of men and women, and a balance of local runners and expats, with some hashers claiming years of experience, and others only weeks.

The hash offers a 50 percent discount on the day’s fees for local runners, which offers a great incentive for them to join the community, get some exercise, and make some friends, remarked walking hare “InFlight Service”.

“Meatsickle”, otherwise known as Alex in the non-hash world, who set the trail for

the 1,346th run, commented on the benefits of the group that everyone seems to enjoy: “It gets the blood moving, you get out of the city, and you meet people who share the energy.”

Hashing cannot be discussed without talking about the hash circle; a review of the day’s trail (which is never spoken about favourably), specific charges for runners, and general social charges. For example “White Boy Sotong” charged all British women and Vietnamese men to drink a beer on behalf of the British entrepreneur who mistook a 46-year-old Vietnamese man for a child. The charges consist of sitting on ice, drinking beer, singing songs of a profane nature, and general group bonding.

Ultimately, hashing is a non-competitive everyman’s sport revolving around a community of running, drinking, and cheeky laughs with some equally sweaty friends. No matter where a hasher goes, they won’t be far away from a like-minded group.

For info or to join up, click on hanoih3.com or saigonh3.com. There are also hashes in Nha Trang (nhatranghash.com), Hoi An (hoianhash. com) and Vung Tau (vungtauhash.com)

“Hashing is part scavenger hunt, part run (or walk, if you’d prefer that) and part banter-filled drink fest. This killer combination makes for a tight-knit community that you can trace across the world�

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Cover Story

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Under One Year Two to Four Years Five to 10 Years Over 10 Years 20 Years

T

The Five Stages of Expat

here’s a famous poster entitled Beer! with the tagline: “Honour your ancestors, they drank it too.”

Showing the evolution of the human from the stooped great ape, or to get technical, australopithecus, through to fullyfledged, hairless homo sapiens with a large beer belly, through each of the six images you see humans in their various stages of physical development.

While we at Word don’t envisage the evolution of the expat in the same way, there are certainly different stages in the transformation from rosy-eyed, slightly green newcomer through to hardened lifer who has been in-country for over a decade.

What changes is outlook, experience and perhaps most importantly, integration into life in Vietnam.

The following stories include a series of profiles of people who have lived in this

country for anything from a few months to over 20 years. We’ve tried to cover the full range, from digital nomads, and the son of an ambassador, through to returning Viet Kieu, business people and those who first came to Vietnam before the collapse of this country’s once most important ally, the Soviet Union.

We’ve also taken a look at why people arrived in Vietnam in the first place and the problems, in particular when you’ve got ‘baggage’ in tow, of trying to leave.

Whether you end up with a protruding gut or not — and we know many do — is certainly up for debate. But what is clear is that if you want worldly experience, or want to have the t-shirt, so to speak, staying in your home country won’t give it to you.

Now, as for moving overseas to countries like Vietnam? Well, you might find you’ve got something to write home about.

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W

hen someone asks a particular person I know about how they came to Vietnam, his response is always the same; by bus.

This is often followed by confused looks.

Only then does he start to explain.

“Seriously, I came here by bus,” he laughs. “Bus from Cambodia.” Even that fact still surprises many. Why travel by bus when you can fly?

Like every story you hear, his tale is unique. When he arrived he was travelling Southeast Asia with his partner and only had a one-month visa for Vietnam. By chance they both found work. After stints living in Hanoi, over a decade later he’s still here. His ex-partner is married and living in Australia.

The reasons people came to call Vietnam home differ from person to person. Many came with their job. Others arrived to set up a business. A lot of people come here for the lifestyle — it’s cheap, the food’s good, and it’s an easy place to hangout and make friends. Some, like 18-year veteran Kate Anderson, came here for love. “[Vietnam] was closer to Australia, where my partner was, than the UK where I had been,” she explains. “[We stayed because] of the vibrancy that you feel when you walk out into the street.”

Emily Dallara, a freelance writer who has been in the country just under a year, moved to Vietnam because she was

“working the 9-to-5 back in England, and I knew I needed to escape the routine.”

She adds: “I chose Vietnam because it offered a base in a country that gave me options to travel while also working and saving.”

What everyone has in common is that they see the opportunity. The opportunity to live well and make money; the opportunity for a different kind of life.

On the Run When I decided to move to Vietnam back in July 2015, I was running away from a trapped life; I was trapped in a small town in Oregon, trapped in a dead-end job and a relationship with a boy who didn’t treat me right. It took one fateful heartbreak for me to make the best snap decision of my life, and two weeks later I was running towards the infinite possibilities of life in this country; the food, the culture, the new friends, the jobs I’ve fallen in love with.

Zukhra Tatyayeva, who is originally from Pavlodar City, Kazakhstan, moved to Vietnam from Malaysia for adventures, a new experience, and to learn a different culture.

“I always wanted to live in summer, coming from somewhere so cold [..] I love how fast [Vietnam] is growing, and that I am kind of part of it. I am participating and contributing something.”

A New Normal Vietnam offers so much that is unique,

from the scenery, flora, and fauna that leave us in awe every day, to the cuisine, people and climate. There is so much Vietnam offers to teach us expats; to face our fears (anyone remember their first time on the back of a xe om or stepping out into oncoming traffic?), to become confidently direct and be unabashedly honest (what about that first time getting ripped off at the market because you were too afraid to haggle?), or simply just to step out every day into a brand new world of unknowns. “[Everyone] I know that has been here seems to have something good to say about Vietnam,” remarks Stewart Gatsi, a musician from Zimbabwe. “From the food to the people, culture and history of this place, it was hard not to be drawn to it.

[Also], I love the fact that I can have banh mi for breakfast every day, and I’m still not sick of it!”

Whatever the case, we can all agree that to live in Vietnam as an expat is to discover a part of yourself that just isn’t accessible from the comfort zone. Every single one of us has come here to find out exactly who it is we can be when we push ourselves, and I know I wouldn’t take back a single minute of time I’ve spent here.

Vietnam shifts our perspectives and broadens our concept of ‘normal’; that’s why we came, it’s why some of us will stay, and why we all tend to fall in love with Vietnam.

Why We Came There are many reasons why foreigners choose to live somewhere like Vietnam.

The problem is that once you get here, it can often be difficult to leave.

Words by Siân Kavanagh

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WHO

Under One Year Oliver de Paolis

WHERE IN THE

United Kingdom

EXPAT TIME

ABROAD

WORLD

“‘We thought, we love travel, we love the expat life, why did we come back?

Let’s go to Vietnam and eat’”

O

li wakes up in the morning and makes himself a coffee in his makeshift home office, a large table in the sunny little Tay Ho apartment he shares with his girlfriend, Jade. He opens his computer, logs onto the WiFi, and his workday begins. There are emails to answer from clients in London, Skype meetings to schedule, and code to write for the websites he’s working on.

“I work five or six days a week, about 10 hours a day. But that’s because I want to,” he says. “If I was at home, I’d have to work seven days a week. And that’s a huge reason for me being here.”

The 23-year-old Englishman is part of a new class of self-starters who’ve embraced the freedom of WiFi and the mobility it affords them. “That’s why digital nomads don’t live in Amsterdam or London or Paris. Why would they? All we want is an internet connection, and it’s generally people who value freedom over money anyway.”

With a degree in anthropology, Oli’s cultural fascination runs deep. He once dreamed of becoming a photographer for National Geographic, and wrote his dissertation on ethnic minorities in Western China. “The web design thing honestly happened by fluke,” he admits. An uncle’s website here, a friend’s e-business there, and little by little, he learned the tools of the trade.

Food, Glorious Food He first visited Vietnam on his gap year. “The very first day, a friend

I’d met on the train got her bag stolen and dragged along the street for two blocks. I ran after him, but I was in a hippie phase at that point and didn’t have any shoes on, so I just cut my feet to shreds.”

He never caught the guy. “I still remember loving it, though. Then we found a bia hoi, and it was all good.”

Later in the trip, he met Jade on the beach in Nha Trang. By some stroke of wild serendipity, the pair were both enrolled to start at the University of Birmingham when they returned home. Their travel romance led to five years of adventures together, from nonprofit work in Ghana to English teaching in South Korea.

“I realised I wanted to be an expat, but I didn’t really want to be a teacher,” he says. Unsatisfied at home, the couple began dreaming of the country where they met. “I was living in London last year and eating a lot of Vietnamese food. We thought, we love travel, we love the expat life, why did we come back?

Let’s go to Vietnam and eat.”

So three months ago, they returned. Jet-lagged and tired, they collapsed in the same Hoan Kiem hostel where they’d stayed so many years ago. “We were so excited, but so hungry and tired and confused, we ended up buying mozzarella sticks. They didn’t have Hanoi beer, so I ended up with a Heineken, and mozzarella sticks. The least Vietnamese introduction ever,” he laughs.

But food wasn’t the only reason to come back. “We realised Vietnam is pretty much the only place in

the world where you can turn up and teach. Most places you need contracts or visas, but here you can come and throw yourself into a freelance career.”

A Different Ambiance The low cost of living means Oli doesn’t have to deal with the overhead that it takes to live in London or New York. “I can afford to charge clients a fraction of what they might be paying [at home],” he says. The opportunities in Hanoi are ripe, and the freelance community is small but motivating.

“You walk into Spacebar and it’s like, you feel bad just breathing if you’re not working. Everyone’s there with a laptop and a latte, just fulfilling every stereotype,” he laughs. ”But there’s something about East Asia and the freelance market. People share, in a way that they wouldn’t at home, because it’s so competitive. But here, it’s a bit more of a bubble. If I can’t do something, I can always recommend someone who could.”

In the future, Oli hopes to stoke the collaborative fires of Hanoi’s freelance scene, pooling skill and talent to land bigger contracts. He’s just returned from his first visa run, he starts Vietnamese lessons in a few days, and his smile couldn’t be any wider.

“I love it [here]. I’m wearing shorts and a t-shirt every day, I can take my laptop to any coffee shop, get a lovely coffee, a lovely environment, and a load of work.

That’s 90% of the things I couldn’t do in London.” — Jesse Meadows

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W

alking into Emma McGowan and Benjamin Evans’ apartment it is apparent that their home is temporary; the walls offer a large amount of white space, which is perfect as a studio for Ben’s filming, but there are few personal effects. However, it still feels like home: the apartment is decorated with fresh flowers, a comfortable couch, a small, patterned tapestry above the desk, and snapshots of countries they’ve once lived in.

If you ask Ben and Emma how many countries they have lived in together over the past three years, you will get two different answers. Emma only counts the seven where they have spent three months or more in one place. Ben on the other hand considers wherever him and his laptop are to be home, taking his tally up to 11. Their entire lives and belongings pack neatly into two pieces of luggage and two carry-on bags between them.

This is the life of the digital nomad; people who actively choose never to claim one geographic location as home for more than a few months at a time. With both of them working jobs remotely, bringing in a stable income and armed with a will to explore, they have made it their mission to discover as much of the world as possible before settling down.

he put all other projects aside to move to Chile and focus on developing his start-up business. From there he has continued on through many countries, particularly in South America.

Emma is a freelance writer and works for a variety of websites, including Bustle.

“Becoming a digital nomad wasn’t really a conscious choice. I was ready to leave the US and was looking for a change. I booked a one way flight to Argentina.” That was back in 2011, and she has since found herself continuing to travel. For the past three years she has had Ben as her partner exploring with her.

One of the things they appreciate most about living in Vietnam is the low living costs, which allow them to save money while living a good quality life. It also gives them room to travel and explore the country around them. Since they arrived in Saigon in October, 2015 they have visited a few cities and explored a good amount of Saigon itself.

Both appreciate the openness and directness of Saigon, something that is reflected in the architecture and the way of life, with homes opened up to the streets and neighbours, to the attitude of the people. “I’ve certainly found myself becoming more assertive and direct since living [here],” says Emma, “in ways that I’ve never felt before.”

Episode Vietnam

Curiosity

With the couple now in Saigon for seven months, Ben is currently working as a business and leadership coach. He found his road to the digital nomad lifestyle through a programme called Start Up Chile while he was in London, England, which demanded

The two decided on Southeast Asia for the simple reason that they had become too accustomed to life in South America. Emma and her father visited Vietnam when she was 13, back in 2001, and she fell in love with the energy of the country. “I knew it

was somewhere I’d come back one day,” she says. As for Ben, he was curious to come to the region as it was somewhere that he’d never been before.

In June they are leaving for new adventures in the United States, to catch up with Emma’s parents, before heading off to Chiang Mai, Thailand, an infamous hub for digital nomads and remote workers.

“Our careers happen wherever we are with our laptops, and it is such a luxury to live this way,” explains Ben. “Vietnam has helped us save money and grow culturally, though we don’t get the same interaction as working in office jobs.”

He adds: “Our colleagues are within our laptops, our apartment is our office and our studio; we have to actively get ourselves out there and meet people to find our Vietnamese experience for ourselves.”

One of the main difficulties the couple have faced in Saigon, as well as other countries they have visited the past few years, is being part of an interracial relationship.

“As a black man in Saigon I know I stand out,” says Ben. “I can see people staring, and it’s hard to bridge that gap."

Adds Emma: “Integration isn’t really possible in six months, you don’t even break the surface of a culture, but you get a sense for a place, you can still find a community.”

Continues Ben: “I’m curious to return to Vietnam in five or ten years to see what Ho Chi Minh City will look like then and how it will have changed. There is so much construction right now, it’s quite literally expanding before our eyes. It’ll be interesting to see how much we recognise when we visit next.” — Siân Kavanagh

“‘Our careers happen wherever we are with our laptops, and it is such a luxury to live this way… Vietnam has helped us save money and grow culturally, though we don’t get the same interaction as working in office jobs’” EXPAT TIME

ABROAD

WHO WHERE IN THE WORLD

Under One Year Benjamin Evans and Emma McGowan USA, Argentina, Chile, Colombia, UK, Nicaragua, Panama, Japan, Malaysia… wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 67

WHO

Two to Four Years Lelio Adriano

WHERE IN THE

Mozambique

EXPAT TIME

ABROAD

WORLD

“‘There were times I thought there were things I could really be experiencing more as a teenager, but because of this [my actions] would have affected my dad’s reputation. There is kind of like a nagging voice in the back of your head that says act a certain way’”

A

lot of people move to Vietnam to travel and get a sense of adventure. But for some it wasn’t a choice.

Lelio Adriano is one of them; his father moved to Hanoi to establish the Mozambique Embassy to Vietnam.

As a diplomat’s child, the biggest reason for him moving here was school. The Mozambique government will only pay for his education if he is living in the same country as his father. His other big reason was his younger brother. His family divorced when he was a child. Lelio wants to be a positive influence on his 15-year-old brother, and with his mother being back in Mozambique, Lelio has taken on some of the responsibilities of a caretaker.

Going to School in Hanoi Although you can’t trip without falling on a foreign English teacher in Vietnam, being a student here is something very few people experience. Lelio graduated from St. Paul American School where most of his classmates were Vietnamese and Korean.

“There was a really strong focus on academic excellence, so much so that I would say that in terms of interpersonal development, I was actually stunted,” he says. “When I was studying in high school here there wasn’t a lot of interaction between the students, and everything was based on books, books, books.

“We all did well, but when I

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started university, I realised I had lost my ability to interact with other people, something that I had a lot of back home in Mozambique.”

He also describes how interactions felt slightly sterile.

“In southern Africa we are a lot more open to each other. We are less reluctant to have physical contact, simple things like hugging or shaking hands, but here something simple as a handshake is quite intimate.”

Getting Cross Cultural According to Lelio, in some aspects Vietnam resembles Mozambique.

But things are developing much faster here, something he credits to the geographical location and history of the country. When he first moved to Hanoi he had gotten a lot of his preconceived notions about Vietnam through the media, which tends to focus on China in its portrayal of Asia. As time passed he became aware of Vietnam not just as an Asian country, but a nation with its own culture and history.

Apart from some uncomfortable remarks about his dark skin colour, local people mostly tend to ask about the food and weather. Mozambique used to be a Portuguese colony until 1975, so Lelio’s first language is Portuguese.

During his time here he has studied Vietnamese and thinks he is somewhere between intermediate and advanced, although he does not get a chance to practice it very often.

“Even when I try to speak Vietnamese, people will speak to me in English, so I haven’t exercised it as much.”

He can also relate to the Vietnamese diet — in Africa they eat nshima, which is their equivalent of rice. It is made up of ground corn which then gets boiled in water or milk. It is a staple in their diet, and usually comes paired with meat and a few vegetables.

Leilo hasn’t integrated much Vietnamese culture into his life. His family keeps him connected to his Mozambique roots mostly through food and music.

Son of a Diplomat Being a diplomat’s son comes with its own set of problems and privileges. One issue is he has had to be much more aware of his image.

“There were times I thought there were things I could really be experiencing more as a teenager,” he says, “but because of this [my actions] would have affected my dad’s reputation. There is kind of like a nagging voice in the back of your head that says act a certain way.”

Lelio is currently in his last year of college and doing an internship at VNU’s economic facility. He’s not sure about staying in his current field, and would like to find a path which would allow him to better express his creativity.

He plans to stay in Hanoi if he can find a decent job, even if his father leaves. — Eduardo Culbeaux

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I

t’s 2pm, and Mon is alone in his restaurant. He’s had two cooks call off work for the night, and he’s feverishly texting every chef in town to find cover. He takes a drag off his cigarette and gets a response. A restaurant owner knows someone, but he doesn’t speak English. Mon smiles. “It’s okay, I can teach him,” he says as he texts back.

“I feel lucky,” he says. After seven years in Hanoi, he’s amassed a community of friends across the city who he can call on when he needs help. “I had to make a new family here. And after all these years, I’ve made so many friends who’ve come and gone, and we all support each other.”

Support is necessary when you’re as motivated as Mon. He’s currently running the kitchen at Tuk Tuk Thai, a brand new Hoan Kiem eatery, where he’s filled the menu with dishes he grew up eating as a first generation Thai-American. He’s no stranger to the restaurant business; his parents ran a successful restaurant in Philadelphia. “I worked in the kitchen, I worked front of house. It’s where I learned how to cook.”

The young entrepreneurs behind Tuk Tuk found Mon on Facebook, via his posts on the popular Foodies in Hanoi group that he co-founded two years ago. But this isn’t his first culinary endeavor here. In 2010, he started a street food spot called Hanoi Panic, after his LGBT zine of the same name.

It was a success for a year-and-a-half,

consider his Southeast Asian hometown.

until trouble arose with his Vietnamese business partner, and he had to step away.

Luckily, the much-loved but now-defunct venue Madake was just getting off the ground then, and they hired Mon to work as their opening chef.

Space to Express

Love Struck Cooking wasn’t his first plan in Vietnam; it was actually love that brought him here. “I was engaged to be married to a person that owns a restaurant here in Hanoi. They were going to travel through Asia when they left Philadelphia, and I told them if they found a place they liked and wanted to stay, I would move there with them.”

It may not have worked out between them in the end, but it led Mon to a different kind of committed relationship.

“I’m still in love with Vietnam,” he admits.

“I originally came here to teach English,” he says, but he struggled to land jobs because he didn’t look ‘American’ enough.

“They prefer Caucasian faces, what they see on TV or in movies, rather than the truth, which is that America is a melting pot.”

The classes he did find were spread far and wide across the city, and the long commute through rush-hour traffic every day burnt him out. Instead, he took a job teaching in the small northeastern city of Lang Son. “I hated it. There was one bar. No one spoke any English. I lasted two months, I couldn’t take it,” he remembers. So he returned to Hanoi, a place he’s come to

EXPAT TIME

ABROAD

WHO WHERE IN THE WORLD

“It’s such a young country. Most of the citizens were born after the war, so they’re still young and have a lot to learn,” he says. He sees a lot of potential here for the kind of DIY projects he’d worked on in Philadelphia, and their ability to empower marginalised groups.

“I grew up listening to riot grrrl music, I know Kathleen Hanna and Bikini Kill.

Her words and music always inspired me to support women’s rights all over the world. I want to train women how to be stronger, how to be more assertive, and break the stereotype that Asian women are submissive. Vietnamese women are not submissive.”

Mon works to create spaces where misunderstood youth in Hanoi can express themselves, regularly DJing LGBT parties and printing personal essays and photographs by the community in his bilingual, DIY zine, distributed for free in queer-friendly venues across the city.

It’s been a month since he’s had a day off from Tuk Tuk, but still, he thinks up new recipes constantly. “Nothing can stop me when I put my mind to something,” he says.

Through all his struggles in Hanoi, he’s remained positive, and determined to stay in the city he loves. “I’ll give myself five more years,” he estimates. But we all know how hard it is to leave. — Jesse Meadows

Five to 10 Years Mon Ovathasarn USA / Thailand

“‘I feel lucky… I had to make a new family here.

And after all these years, I’ve made so many friends who’ve come and gone, and we all support each other’”

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Two to Four Years Sara Malje-Besset Sweden, France

“I love you, and I always have. I don’t blame you for the decisions you made, I just want to know you.”

T

he name sounds Scandinavian, but the girl who grew up to be Sara Malje-Besset was born in Vietnam’s Soc Trang province. In 1975 she was airlifted out of Saigon at the age of eight months after being adopted by a Swedish family.

She has spent the past two years of her life living back in Vietnam, one year in Nha Trang and one in Saigon, and has been rediscovering her mother country. During this time she has also been hoping to uncover more about her biological family and solve the mysteries of the first few months of her life.

“It can get hard because people will try and talk to me in Vietnamese,” says Sara, who has been studying Vietnamese and practicing daily for two years now.

“Others will know before I open my mouth that I am different, from the way I move, the way I dress; it’s hard to connect when I can’t fully communicate yet."

She adds: “One of the most important things to do when you arrive in a new country is to learn the language... to be able to understand more about the culture and the people... to be able to express yourself and make yourself understood.” Yet two years later, she is still challenged by the pronunciation and tonality of Vietnamese.

Though she has kept her Vietnamese-government issued papers that travelled with her during her adoption, little is really known about Sara’s past, including her birth parents, date of birth, or where she was born.

Thanks to changed legislation, Sara managed to reclaim her Vietnamese nationality in 2013.

Embracing Difference Helena, Per and their son Marten Malje brought Sara into their lives

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and family in 1975, and Sara’s own experience growing up as part of the Malje family was one filled with love and happiness. Her mother Helena had wanted another child, and understood that there were many displaced children during the time of the American War, so her and Per decided to adopt Sara.

“I was never exposed to horrific racism,” Sara remarked. “As a teenager, I just wanted to fit in but I stood out with my black hair and brown skin. It took me a while to grow into myself.”

As an adult Sara quickly learned to embrace her differences from her Swedish peers, and over time became more comfortable with herself and curious about Vietnam.

Recently she has made connections with other adoptees via the Internet, and their first meet-up was in Paris in 2012 where they met for dinner. During the evening she ate Vietnamese food for the first time. Now, she doesn’t know how she would live without it.

In the past few years Sara has developed a deep love for street food, specifically bun thit nuong, and ca phe sua da. “I love so much about Vietnam; it continues to fascinate and surprise me every day, from the energy of the city and the genuine smiles of the Vietnamese people; I am still amazed by the everyday scenes I see,” she says.

She has even braved the task of driving a motorbike in Saigon, though she still jokes that she trusts Vietnamese drivers more than herself on the road, especially with two children on the bike at the same time.

Staying in Touch After a brief holiday in Vietnam in 1996, Sara moved here in 2014 at the age of 40 with her family in tow after her husband got a job teaching

in a school in Nha Trang. The move was emotional for the entire family, with a surge of conflicting emotions as Sara found herself and her family far away from what had once been home, ready to create a life in the country from which she came.

So Sara understands the importance of rediscovering and accepting different homes and identities. She is currently in Vietnam, while the eldest of her three children, Jade, 16, is living with her grandparents in Sweden, getting to know the country her mother grew up in, while also studying for the International Baccalaureate. Though they miss each other, Jade will be reuniting with her family and Vietnam this summer, much to the delight of Sara.

“I don’t need much in life to be happy, just family, love, and... a little money,” she laughs.

Right now Sara is spending her time learning Vietnamese, writing her autobiography in Swedish, and looking after her children and household. She is also looking further into her family history and trying to find her biological family.

If there is anything she could do to finally meet her biological family, she would be prepared to do it now, though she wasn’t ready when she was younger. The process of finding them is difficult, especially with the lack of paperwork from the war years, though she has found distant blood relatives (4th, 5th removed cousins) via DNA testing.

I asked her what she would say to her biological parents if she had the chance.

She smiles with a deep-set sadness in her eyes, and answers: “I love you, and I always have. I don’t blame you for the decisions you made, I just want to know you.” — Siân Kavanagh

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Five to 10 Years Paul Massad Chile

F

or those who have been to Saigon Outcast recently and wonder who stands behind the climbing wall, the answer is Paul Massad, a 26-year-old entrepreneur and the founder of Push Climbing. Born in Chile’s Patagonia region, he followed his father to Vietnam when he was 18 when his father moved to Nha Trang to work in the fishing industry.

When his mother came to Saigon a year-and-a-half later, he moved down to stay with her. He then took his CELTA in Cambodia and after travelling round the country, he came back to Saigon and started a teaching job that helped him save money to pay for his Marketing and Communications degree at RMIT. With a passion for climbing and outdoor activities, Paul launched Push Climbing in 2010 in District 7. Ever since he has been watching his business grow, and the city change.

From Adaptation According to Paul, most of what foreigners have heard about Vietnam is related to events of 30 years ago. In order to know more about the country and the people, all foreigners need to do, Massad believes, is to sit down and talk about the little things that make life tick with the locals.

“Those little things are now everything for me,” he says.

“At the beginning you want to talk, because everything seems amazing, and then you start getting frustrated because you want to know the details. For example, you don’t just want a coffee, but a coffee without sugar and less ice.

“And then you start chatting and getting frustrated because you cannot get your ideas across, and not only because of the language barrier. You don’t understand but you have to speak, and you decide to learn Vietnamese. This stage is

to help you get through some basic problems.

“Then you will get to the stage that you want to do something in this country. There’s a need, and that will force you to learn more, not only the language. You don’t want to depend on someone else like a translator or secretary. You want to do it by yourself, so you can survive and get everything done without anyone’s help.”

Paul admits his Vietnamese is just sufficient to get contracts done, talk to his staff, and use in meetings. “But I still often use the typical excuse that ‘I don’t speak Vietnamese’,” he says.

Understanding To get a feeling for a different culture requires a lot of effort as well as time, but in seven years, Paul feels he has come to understand some of the basics of Vietnamese society.

“Western culture is based on the idea that you can be all you want to be, regardless of what other people say,” he explains. “Vietnamese culture often works differently — you are what other people allow you to be, what your parents tell you to be, and what your family helps you to be.”

For Paul this kind of straightjacket has its good and its bad points.

“You don’t have to think too much about where to live or what to do as your family will give those ideas to you,” he says, “but also you have to follow what they want.”

He adds: “It’s a big divide between old and new generations.

My parents would do the same to me in Chile. So I understand it, as I am kind of growing out from the same idea.”

What He Has Seen According to Paul, when he first moved here, there were a few stores like Lotteria, Big C and

Metro, while now big malls and convenience stores like Circle K are everywhere. Small shops have been replaced with bigger shops, and low-rise buildings have been substituted for high-rises.

“We don’t go to the tiem tap hoa [mom and pop convenience store] anymore,” he adds. “What I see here are all the things that have been done before in other countries.”

It’s not only the look but also the lifestyle that has changed.

Compared to District 7, where he set up his first climbing wall, his latest location in District 2 offers a “weird experience” as it doesn’t really look like it’s in Vietnam. Yet it still has its own Vietnamese traits with typical tube-shaped houses and street food stalls.

“There are many things that foreigners don’t want to do here including driving, cleaning, gardening or fixing the electricity.

They can get those services from the neighbour,” he says. “But I don’t like it. Everything I’ve learnt is like a multi-functional tool for me. It’s a bit like a hammer; you can use it for either hammering in a nail or taking it out. So you apply that tool to every single concept.”

What I Can Get Today Matters The idea of letting things go would not be an easy option for Paul.

After seven years living, working in Saigon and earning a reputation for his own business, Paul hasn’t thought of leaving Vietnam.

“If I let go of what I have right now, it would mean I have to start again,” he says. “It has taken a lot of money and resources to build what I have now.”

He admits he is thinking about buying an apartment in Saigon, which suggests an ambition to stay a long time in Vietnam.

“I will stay here as long as the opportunity lasts,” is all he will say on that subject. — Vu Ha Kim Vy

“‘Western culture is based on the idea that you can be all you want to be, regardless of what other people say… Vietnamese culture works differently — you are what other people allow you to be, what your parents tell you to be, and what your family helps you to be’” wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 75

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Over 10 Years Ali Waugh

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Australia

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“I was on a contract for one-and-a-half years, and it just kept on rolling over and rolling over, and suddenly it was 10 years.

I didn’t plan that”

A

li Waugh’s decade in Vietnam began with a holiday in 2005.

She was so struck, that two years later, she sent her résumé all across the country, and landed a job as a guidance counsellor at Hanoi International School.

“I was on a contract for one-and-a-half years, and it just kept on rolling over and rolling over, and suddenly it was 10 years. I didn’t plan that,” she laughs.

So what’s kept her here this long? Besides a thriving clothing business with a team of employees now 20-strong, the 48-year-old Australia native has put down roots in the local community.

“When I first got here, a Vietnamese lady gave me a puppy, and I’ve still got him. He’s nine-and-a-half. It would cost US$10,000 dollars to take the dog back to Australia so I kind of got stuck in a spider web.

“But that way, I feel a responsibility to stay. Also, I really like it.”

In the beginning, she was the only foreigner on her block in Ba Dinh, so she began learning Vietnamese out of necessity.

She took two lessons a week for two years, and studied every chance she got.

“I used to walk the dog every night after my Vietnamese lesson and talk to the old ladies that sell tea and fruit on the side of the road,” she says. “Once you make that investment of your time, then you can start

talking to people that you never would have spoken to, and it becomes much more interesting to live here.”

Fashioning a Future Around seven years ago, her career took another unexpected turn into the fashion business. When she first arrived, the only boutique option for Western women was Things of Substance in the Old Quarter.

“I would go to work, and some days three of us would have the same dress on, it was ridiculous,” she remembers. “I found out that my housekeeper used to be a tailor, so I asked her to help me start up a clothing business.”

Emporium began as a shop on the third floor of her house, and now fills two floors of space on Xuan Dieu. Though she worked the first two years just to break even, she admits it would have cost 10 times the amount and been much harder to set up a business in Australia. “[Vietnam] is a real can-do place,” she says. Her first space on To Ngoc Van was originally an office. “I said to the landlord, can we turn this into a shop? They can do anything.”

It’s this resourcefulness that’s changed the country the most during Ali’s 10 years here, ushering in an age of English speakers, Maseratis, and a growing wage gap. She watches construction workers from far-flung rural provinces putting up

25 new storeys across the street from her shop every day.

“I know they’re earning more money here than they would at home, but there’s a big gap between them and the guy driving the Bentley,” she says.

The Long Goodbye The country’s rapid globalisation has opened her eyes to new things, too. With an internationally diverse circle of friends and a strategic location just a short flight away from so many of the world’s most exotic destinations, Vietnam has made her culturally aware in a way that Australia’s geographic isolation never allowed.

“I’ve had quite a few friends go back and find it hard to fit in,” she admits. “I think you go through a lot of grief as an expat.”

Summer is the saddest time of year in Hanoi; it’s the season of goodbyes.

“Your friends often go in June, and you go off on a holiday. When you come back in August, there’s this Grand Canyon in your life, it’s awful. Then by September, October, November, you get some new friends, but they’re never the same.”

Ten years of Hanoi’s revolving door hasn’t made it any easier to say goodbye, but still, Ali’s got no plans to leave.

“I might have 20 minutes in traffic where I think, I don’t want to be here, but nearly every minute of every day, I’m happy.” — Jesse Meadows

Over 10 Years Kylie Michelle

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“‘I love watching Vietnam grow. That’s been one of the most exciting things about being here over the present period — over the last 16 or 17 years, the amount of change is enormous.’”

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talented chef, Kylie began her great Vietnam adventure in 1999.

In the years since then, she has joint-owned wine supplier and retailer Vino, and more recently, taken control of the kitchen at Saigon’s District 2 restaurant, Lubu.

Arriving first in Vietnam with her partner Jim as a stopover on a trip to Ireland, the European experience was short-lived. The weather was bad, it was raining and cold, and things didn’t work out. So making a beeline back to Australia they stopped off in Vietnam.

“Three days before we left, a cyclo driver said that there was an Englishlanguage school that urgently needed teachers,” recalls Kylie. “So we got in the cyclo, he took us to the school and we stayed here for three-and-a-half years.”

In 2003 and with Kylie seven months pregnant, the couple upped sticks and moved to Spain. Jim, a trained sommelier, had work out there. Their son, Oscar was born, and in early 2004, once again via Vietnam, they returned to Australia.

“We went back to Australia to work out what we were supposed to be doing with our lives,” says Kylie. “We started from there the process of setting up Vino with our business partner here. Then we came back.”

Freedom and Opportunity For Kylie, there were two things that led to her and Jim settling in Vietnam. The first was the freedom, the fact “that we weren’t restricted by the same rules that there were in Australia, that we could do whatever we wanted.” This translates to anything from zipping around on a motorbike to being able to reinvent yourself and meet the kind of people that you would never have contact with back home.

The other thing they saw was the

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opportunity. When Kylie and Jim opened up Vino in 2005, they were importing one line of wines from Australia, while for their off-trade, all the products were sourced from other wine importers.

“If you opened up a wine shop in Sydney and had one line of products, no-one would have gone there,” she explains. “Because the expat community was so small, it was easy for us to get a lot of contacts and quite easy to get hotel managers or general managers to take on one random new wine from one random new wine company. If you were in Australia there’s no way they would have done that.”

With her restaurant, Lubu, one of the other pleasures she has had was being able to build the place, something she feels would have been impossible in Australia.

“We built and designed Lubu by ourselves,” she says. “That process would have taken years in Australia, even just getting the building approval.”

She adds: “We live around the corner from Lubu, the building process was quite easy and our son [Oscar] was with us the whole time. In Australia we would have sent him off to his grandmother. We wouldn’t have been able to walk around the corner and build the restaurant from scratch.”

Other things like being able to source the tiles, the paint, “every single solitary thing” would have taken them months to do back home and they would have probably had to outsource everything to architects or interior designers. Here they did it all themselves.

Assimilation Yet, as Kylie has discovered, not everything in Vietnam is rosy and there are times when the country can treat you badly. As she says: “Being an expat hurts

you sometimes.” You’re a long way from home, a long way from your family and close friends. And when you do need that support, it can often be lacking.

One issue that is part and parcel of this is assimilation. “You can never fully assimilate,” she explains. “I mean I try, I try very hard, but the end of the day you never really do. You’re always a foreigner, you’re always on the outside.”

And this is despite Kylie speaking good Vietnamese, and spending most of her working day — be it communicating with her staff, writing emails or making phone calls — talking only Vietnamese. Although during her teaching days she only bought food at the market, and spent a lot of time going out with her students and Vietnamese friends, she is still an outsider.

Yet spending so much time in Vietnam has rubbed off on her.

“I’m definitely more aggressive,” she says. “Survival in [Ho Chi Minh City] requires a certain amount of aggression and I definitely have that quality now, more so than I did before.”

The way she eats has changed. She can no longer handle Western portion sizes or eat a massive steak like she would have done in the past. Instead she loves “waking up on a boiling hot day to a boiling hot bowl of noodles.”

And despite the distance from Australia and her family, something which can occasionally hurt, she still remains positive about this country.

“I love watching Vietnam grow,” she says. “That’s been one of the most exciting things about being here over the present period — over the last 16 or 17 years, the amount of change is enormous. Apart from all the apartment buildings and all the malls, because I like the traditional way more, I think it’s great. I think Vietnam is moving in a fantastic direction.”— Nick Ross

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20 Years Natalia Kraevskaia

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“He had an idea to establish an independent art space in Vietnam, where he could show the art of young artists, or do experimental things.

Because this is a private house, nobody could control it.”

H

anoi was a different world when Natalia first arrived in 1983. There were no motorbikes, no cars, no taxis and no tourists. “After 7pm, the streets were quiet. But it was good for walking. No pollution,” she recalls, pouring tea at a table in Salon Natasha, the art gallery she established with her late husband, Vu Dan Tan, in his family home on Hang Bong.

“Some younger people don’t even know that during this period, it was forbidden for Vietnamese people to talk with foreigners, or to have any connections. If somebody came to talk to you on the street, they could be arrested.”

Natalia had been sent to Hanoi by Russia’s Ministry of Education to help establish the Pushkin Institute. After two months, a colleague asked if she could deliver a package of gifts — canned milk, canned meats, sugar — to a Vietnamese friend. Though she’d signed an agreement that she would not have any contact with the Vietnamese outside of work, she went anyway.

“So I came with this bag of special presents, here, to this room, and I met my husband. At that time, he was 39. I was 33.”

Vu Dan Tan was an artist. He showed Natalia his studio and the masks he was making, and she was captivated.

Philosophical “He was dressed all in black, and looked very romantic. I liked his masks. Now I feel very stupid, but at the time I said: ‘Oh, this mask looks like a tiger… is it a cat?’ and he said, it depends on how you look at it, it can be a cat, or it can be a mouse. To me, this sounded so philosophical. Love at first sight.”

It was Dec. 25, and remnants of a Christmas party were strewn about his

house — empty bottles and cigarettes.

Dan Tan paid no mind to the rules against fraternising with foreigners, often entertaining them in his house. He invited Natalia to visit whenever she wanted, and on New Year’s Eve, she returned.

“It was the beginning of our love story.”

They dated in secret, never announcing their affair, but often walking together in the street. Police came to visit Dan Tan’s mother several times to warn her. Natalia counts herself lucky — other Russians were known to have been deported for having a relationship like hers.

“If meeting was forbidden, marriage was also forbidden,” she remembers. But this didn’t stop her.

“I was supervising the universities where they taught Russian, and at one of these universities, the wife of the Russian ambassador was working. I told her about this love story, and that we wanted to get married, but it was impossible, and I asked for her help. She said, ‘Okay, write a letter, but not a formal letter, a romantic letter.

The ambassador has not yet forgotten what love is. I will give your letter to him in the right moment’.”

Six months later, they were married.

Four days after the wedding, Natalia had to leave for Russia, and it took Dan Tan a year before he was allowed to meet her there. They did not return to Hanoi until 1990.

“He had an idea to establish an independent art space in Vietnam, where he could show the art of young artists, or do experimental things. Because this is a private house, nobody could control it.”

Reinvention Until Nha San opened in 1998, Salon Natasha was the only private art space in Hanoi, and one of very few places young

people could meet and talk. There were only a handful of bars and clubs then, nothing like the backpacker mecca that has since sprung up around Natalia’s house in Hoan Kiem.

She doesn’t mind the backpackers; some of them are quite interesting, she says.

But she is wary of the expats who come to Vietnam to reinvent themselves. “Many people stay here, and they pretend to be what they are not.”

She credits Vietnamese culture with making her a bit wiser in her social relationships, and more open-minded.

In Russia, when someone wrongs you, retaliation is immediate. “But in Vietnam, it’s not. You are smiling, you are tolerant, and you wait maybe four years for revenge,” she laughs.

She feels her national identity is split, and she’s now developed both Russian and Vietnamese sides to her character. But even after 27 years, she still has trouble pronouncing the language. “I have no musical ear,” she explains. The xe oms may not understand her, but her mother-in-law does. “We can talk for hours!”

As for Vietnam, the changes she’s seen have been drastic. “People can travel everywhere. They have access to books and the internet, they can work for the government, or they can start private businesses. Before, private business didn’t exist, and you were under total control. But now, you can choose.”

Ideally, she’d like to split her time equally between Russia and Vietnam, but it never seems to happen that way. It’s been hard living here since her husband passed away in 2009, surrounded by his artwork, in the home they shared, in the room where they met. His memory is all around her, but still, she won’t leave now. “For me, Vietnam is home.” — Jesse Meadows

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20 Years Thanh Charles Australia

“‘My career here has been good. I started as a sales supervisor and moved up the ranks in the corporate world, which meant I learnt a lot quickly. As Vietnam has grown, I’ve been able to grow with it, which has been an incredible experience’”

F

or most expats, the time spent abroad is measured in months, perhaps a few years — a fullimmersion cultural vacation, a source of experiences to enrich their lives and stories to wow future neighbours.

They leave their home countries physically, but never fully embrace the culture of their new home.

Thanh Charles has spent the majority of his life in Vietnam — an impressive feat for an expatriate. His roots here run deep, grown deeper through the desire to understand his culture.

Born in Vietnam, Charles was adopted at the age of four months by an Australian couple. In late 1992, at age 19, he returned as a visitor, eager to see the land of his birth for himself.

How To Succeed In Business, Vietnam Edition “I first came to Vietnam end of 1992 as a backpacker. Then I returned in April 1993 for work with Vinagen brewery in Nha Trang, which shortly after was acquired by San Miguel Brewery.”

When San Miguel bought Vinagen, Charles was promoted. Soon he was at Phillip Morris as their national sales and promotions manager, an impressive title at such a young age. His career followed this pattern for years to come; national sales manager for Foster’s Vietnam Limited; then marketing director; then member of the board for both Vietnam and Cambodia operations.

After removing himself from the highoctane corporate life, Charles opened Meatworks, a bustling, butcher shop in District 2, now a year old. Opening a small shop is one of the popular routes for lifer expats. There’s a sense of solidity to owning something, especially to those who’ve spent their careers in cubicles and classrooms that belong to someone else.

“It’s not that hard to get licensed here,” he says, his voice pure, broad Aussie,

laid-back and sun-baked. After a life spent in the wholesale end of the food and beverage industry, working for giant global corporations, opening a boutique butchery made sense. The market was ready for it, Charles had the connections, and the perfect site became available a year ago. They already have plans to open another shop within a year’s time.

“Keep an Open Mind and Look at Opportunities” He takes me on a tour of the shop, proud of his staff, his goods, and his wife, who is too busy running the shop to chat much. The beef and lamb look fantastic, thick cuts done in the Western style, and quite reasonably priced. The tour is interrupted several times by customers, and he’s invariably genial and helpful, a man living the life he wants on his own terms.

When I ask about his personal success and the obvious success of Meatworks (I see a dozen customers or more in the hour we spend talking), his answer is simple.

“For new arrivals or expats I’d suggest they keep an open mind and look at opportunities or gaps in the market that can be filled.”

Our conversation ranges from the past to the future, from the personal to business, but constantly underneath is the sense of a happy man.

“When I came, Ho Chi Minh City was full of bikes,” he says, as a stream of gleaming motorbikes zoom by, heavily sprinkled with Mercedes, Toyotas, and Honda sedans. “Much has changed over the last 20-plus years…”

One of the biggest changes he’s seen is Vietnam’s hunger for, and access to, foreign brands.

“Customers now have more brands and products to choose from. People are expecting more and have the ability to experiment more.” We discuss the rise in supermarkets and hypermarkets, and how much foreign corporations and

countries are waking up to Vietnam’s potential. “…Vietnam [is] a changing market with growth potential. The whole market is changing.”

When I ask him to tell me a sign of this change, it comes to mind instantly.

“Modern trade, people going to supermarkets,” he says with a shrug. This is, he assures me, very different from the days when you invariably bought from a market, or a corner store in the downstairs of someone’s home, and foreign goods were hard to come by.

Even Lifers Dream of Home As to what has kept him here this long, through so many changes? One is major; Charles is married to a Vietnamese woman and has a family. But the country itself has gotten to him.

“I enjoy the pace of change and excitement in the country.”

Being able to take part in the local life hasn’t hurt. “As I speak Vietnamese fairly well and my wife is Vietnamese, I enjoy and take part in the local culture,” he says. Yet Charles’s acquisition of the language only came after he moved to Vietnam: growing up in Australia he never had the chance to learn Vietnamese.

Despite all this, he may not want to stay forever.

“I hope to go back to Australia and retire someday, or perhaps return in four to five years’ time when my youngest son is older.”

But from the moment he moved here, and until this hypothetical move back to Oz, he doesn’t want to live anywhere else.

Vietnam has been too good for him to leave.

“No, I’ve never tried to leave, as I enjoy the place too much. My career here has been good. Initially, I started as a sales supervisor and moved up the ranks in the corporate world, which has meant I learnt a lot quickly. As Vietnam has grown, I’ve been able to grow with it, which has been an incredible experience.” — Owen Salisbury

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If you’re a long-termer in Vietnam, getting out is often difficult. But as those who’ve managed to make the break can testify, it’s not settling back in which is tough, it’s the emotional side of it all. Words by Nick Ross

I

tried to leave Vietnam twice. Both times I came back.

The first was after what I call the oneyear itch, the period where the country no longer has that tick, that vibrancy, that magic that made you fall in love with it.

That was in autumn 2001. By January the next year, I was back, but in a different city; Hanoi.

The second time was for a job in Singapore on a magazine, Education. I came, I saw, but despite all my well-laid plans, I didn’t quite conquer. Four months after leaving Vietnam with delusions of Singaporean grandeur I was back. This time I was based in Vung Tau. Even though these days I spend a lot of time in the UK, I still haven’t left. As I like to put it, I’m on parole. Other long-termers I know have had different experiences.

They have finished their sentences and moved on. For some it’s been a successful transition, for others it’s been more complex.

Coming Home When I was in my early 20s and travelling Europe, I met a man on a train from Folkestone on the English Channel to London. He was with his 10-year-old son who lived with the boy’s mother in Paris.

“I left the UK in my early 20s,” the man told me. “I travelled the world and ended up living in South Africa for 10 years.”

“So why did you come back?” I asked.

I can’t remember his exact answer but the comment that follows sticks in my mind.

“Once you leave, coming back is very difficult,” he told me. “You can never quite settle back in to life in the UK. You’re always a foreigner.”

This has not been the case for former Vietnam resident, Pete Murray. An 18-yearlong veteran of the expat lifestyle, five years ago he returned to the UK with his Vietnamese wife and three kids in tow. The decision to leave Vietnam, says Pete, was easy. He was ready to leave.

“I decided when my eldest was born that I had 10 years to get out,” he says. “If they were to go to school in the UK, then they’d have to start before going to comprehensive [high school].

“So, it was always at the back of my mind, but then my mum died. So we all

came back after that.”

At first he took his family to Northeast England, just south of Newcastle, but after a year he settled in the Wirral, next to Liverpool. He had returned to the UK with a plan to buy a business. After flirting with the idea of getting into the pub industry, he went into post offices.

“We were trying to buy a post office in Chester, but the one school we wanted to put the boys into, there was no chance of it,” he recalls. “The agent saw the deal wasn’t going well. So he sent us details of a couple more post offices for sale. We looked at one in Wallasey [near Liverpool], that we bought. We had to raise a bit more money, but the school options were good.”

Since then, life has been focused on work and the kids. While the three sons now no longer want to move back to Vietnam — something that disappoints Pete as he wanted to “raise them in both cultures” — his wife has also settled in.

“She’s been great,” he says. “Obviously there have been some stressful moments, but in general, I think the fact we’ve always been working has kept us sane.”

He adds: “Last year she went back for the first time in nearly four years. We were chatting online. She was complaining about all the noise and the heat. She’s now more comfortable [in the UK] than at home.”

“Although her English is good,” says John, “because it was a foreign language to her, she had a major confidence issue. She struggled with that to start with.”

This led to other problems.

“I think it’s to do with how she values herself,” he continues, “having the guts to actually get up and do something here. She did give it a go, but it was hard for her to continue on knowing that the lifestyle in Vietnam is so different.

“For her, in England there seemed to be no end to everyone going to work and then having to spend the rest of their lives completely involved with their children. No time to relax for a coffee or anything. I think she found that quite tough.”

Other issues included friendships. She never found people unwelcoming, she just struggled with the way things work; people don’t have their front doors open 24 hours a day, you can’t walk in unannounced.

“Everything has to be planned,” adds John.

“She found that quite difficult.”

The deal breaker was the weather.

“It was just too cold for her,” he says.

“To the extent it affects her physically.

She has problems with her joints and gets headaches. She’s not used to it.”

She has since spent increasing amounts of time back in Vietnam. How the family’s future will unfold remains unclear.

The Weather

Making the Break

Other former expats have not been so fortunate. One such person is John (name changed). Returning to the UK with his Vietnamese wife, two young children and a thriving business in Vietnam, at first the transition was smooth. But then everything started to unravel.

“The physical aspect [of moving back] was pretty simple,” he says. “There was a lot of paperwork to do when we got over here, but it was straightforward. So the actual logistics were not too difficult. We kept our business running — that helped.

We had put in contingency plans a couple of years before we moved. It meant we could do a lot of stuff from the UK, online or by phone. It wasn’t easy, but it was doable.”

However, John’s wife never quite managed to settle. For her life in the UK was so different to Vietnam that she could never really fit in. She felt like an outsider.

If you leave Vietnam after living here for a year or two, then going home is not such a trial. It’s easy to walk straight back into the rhythm of life. But if your sentence has gone over a decade, especially if you’re past 40, then returning brings with it a new set of challenges. As one friend of mine has discovered, his personal test is finding work. He’s 48, and despite a successful track record backed up by all the qualifications in the world, it’s taken time.

Far more time than he hoped.

“They want people with experience in the UK,” he says. “It doesn’t matter what you’ve done abroad. It counts for nothing.”

However, as with everyone I’ve spoken to, the key is to have a plan. It may or may not work out — that’s life. However, if you return without having clearly thought out your goals and your direction, then you’re setting yourself up for disaster.

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Insider

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INSIDER

SPECIAL FEATURE

How to Build a Tourist Town Home to the largest cave in the world, Phong Nha has gone from out-of-the-way backwater to thriving tourist town. Yet how do you make the influx of tourist dollars create benefit for all? Words by Nick Ross.

Ross. Additional reporting by Julie Vola.

Vola.

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I

n 2005 a German couple arrived in Quang Binh. Working as part of a conservation project between Cologne Zoo and Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, they rented a small house 3km out of Phong Nha Town. Nguyen Thanh Hai, now one of the most successful businessmen in Phong Nha, was brought in to work on the project. He remembers it well.

“Locals stood in front of their house every day and stared at them to see what [they] looked like,” he recalls. “They wanted to see how they move, how they eat. The couple got really annoyed and they had to build a brick fence to cover themselves.”

Fast forward three years and I made my first trip to what was then an untouched, undeveloped limestone karst national park with only one cave open to the public. I was on a one-day tour from Hue. Like most other non-Vietnamese tourists of the time, I went by bus, rocked up, took the boat into the cave, got hassled by hawkers and then got on the bus and left.

Not the destination we know today.

Yet I have a strong visual memory of Phong Nha in 2008. I remember gazing at the mountains and jungle looming in the

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distance, at the grandiose rock formations towering up into the sky, and saying to myself: “I wonder what’s inside there?”

There was something mystical about this eerily beautiful land. Yet at the time, heading into the national park was forbidden.

A year later, Howard and Deb Limbert, together with local guide, Ho Khanh, and a group of scientists from the British Cave Research Association undertook the first survey of Son Doong. What they discovered was the largest cave in the world.

The Growth in Tourism “In the past there were maybe 15 to 20 foreign tourists a day,” says Ngoc, one half of the husband-wife partnership behind Tuan Ngoc Restaurant. “Now there are around 200 to 400. Tourism in Phong Nha is getting bigger and bigger.”

According to Ben Mitchell who has been in the area since 2006 and started Phong Nha Farmstay and Easy Tiger Hostel, this exponential growth in foreign tourism has changed the reasons for visiting the area. “[Before the discovery of Son Doong] Vietnamese tourists used to stay in Dong Hoi and do a day trip to Phong Nha,” he recalls. “No money stayed in the community

except for jungle meat, which was what the Vietnamese wanted to eat when they came here because it was thought exotic.

So what little money that did get through to the community was from decimating the wildlife in the jungle.”

He adds: “Now, because there are so many foreigners running around and so much emphasis on Phong Nha, we’re seeing less and less of that type of tourism. I haven’t seen it openly for years.”

Ben’s wife and business partner, Le Thi Bich, remembers that period well. Having left the area for many years she is proud she has been able to return and play a role in the development of Phong Nha. One of her personal successes was with transportation.

“When I started Farmstay [with Ben], it was so hard for tourists to even get here, let alone get information on what to do and get around the area,” she recalls. “Three years ago, not long after we opened Easy Tiger Hostel, we managed to detour one of the intercity bus companies off Highway 1 out to Phong Nha. Other bus companies quickly followed. Now we no longer have everybody tearing past Phong Nha and missing this awesome area between Ha Noi and Hoi An.”

This plus the growing number of accommodation options has led to the influx of a different type of tourist, something that has been of huge benefit to Ngoc’s business.

When they first opened in March 2014, their concept was simply a Vietnamese restaurant for Vietnamese people.

“But a lot of Western people were coming here and asking to try local Vietnamese food,” she says. “So at the moment we do a lot of food for Western people, but it’s different for Vietnamese. Vietnamese like seasoning put in the food, but Westerners don’t like it. So I do Vietnamese food with flavours for Westerners.”

Howard Limbert has also witnessed the transformation. Together with his wife Deb, after 25 years of coming to the area the British-born cavers are the equivalent of Phong Nha royalty.

“It’s changed so dramatically,” he says, citing the way some of the local men on his original caving expeditions have started to become successful. One such person is Ho Khanh, the man who originally discovered Son Doong. Khanh now has a six-room homestay and is the porter manager for Oxalis, the company that runs the tours to Son Doong. The chef from all the original expeditions recently opened up a restaurant in the village, while another of the original porters, An, now owns a three-villa homestay.

“These are the people who found the caves,” he says. “These are people who’ve helped us for the past 25 years exploring caves. So it’s great to get a bit of reward for these boys, as these are the ones who’ve done all the work.”

Yet, working closely with the Quang Binh

Tourist Association and the various local people’s committees, one of the problems that Howard has encountered is the lack of both understanding and experience of how you can develop tourism for the benefit of all. One issue is the local food market. Go to Hoi An and the market is one of the key attractions. In Phong Nha, it’s still all about the caves.

“I’m really trying to improve the market,” he says. “I really think they should do something as it’s the first place that floods. It’s absolutely awful. What they don’t appreciate is that so many tourists are coming to this area now that they need a market that’s good enough not only for them, but for tourists. But they have no idea. They are just so far behind in tourism compared to Hue, Hoi An and places like that.”

“‘In the past there were maybe 15 to 20 foreign tourists a day. Now there are around 200 to 400. Tourism in Phong Nha is getting bigger and bigger’”

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“‘To develop a good town for tourism, we’re trying to get everyone to work together… to make sure that everyone’s making some money out of it, and that the [experience] is good for the customers’” The problem, he adds is that “when they see something that is a success like a cave, they just think ‘cave’. ‘Oh that’s great, we’ll have more of them,’ instead of thinking of diversity.”

Indeed, it is for this reason that the muchmaligned idea of building a cable car to Son Doong has so often been talked about.

“So we’re trying to help them out with diversity,” he continues. “Because as good as [the caves] are — in fact they’re the best — not everyone in the world wants to go down a cave. I find it hard to believe, but not everybody does.”

Howard’s answer is to create other attractions like cycling trails, canopy walks, jungle treks and climbing expeditions.

“It’s got outrageous potential,” he says.

One For All and All For One One such person who’s tapped into the need for diversity is Nguyen Thanh Hai. Responsible for opening the first bar in Phong Nha, Bamboo Bar, three years ago he partnered up with Ben and Bich Mitchell and

Mike Rowbottom to build Easy Tiger, the first backpacker hostel in the area. He has since started up his own eco tours. The idea for the tours came from frequent visits to the local animal rescue centre.

“I created the eco tours after I came to the rescue centre and saw really shit things happening,” he explains. “The government doesn’t have enough money to support it. Vietnam is a developing country, so money is needed to invest on things like hospitals, roads and schools. Animals aren’t important.”

The tours have two benefactors. The first is the rescue centre itself. He puts money into a fund which he passes over to the centre manager every two or three months.

“They use that money to buy food for the animals, to buy medication, to make repairs, to buy tools, for everything.”

The second set of benefactors are the locals. So, rather than hiring a van — which employs two or three people who are almost always not local to Phong Nha — Hai will hire motorbike drivers who “follow the

tourists, are porters, carry the water, the food and everything.”

This way he can give money to nine people from Phong Nha rather than the two or three people who own the van. And, says Hai, they’re earning more money than they would get if they worked in construction or other manual labour jobs.

“I try to educate them,” he adds. “Look, we don’t destroy any trees or animals, but at the end of the day you’ll still get money.

If you destroy the forest you can get money now, but in the future you won’t have any and your children won’t have any. But if you keep the forest intact, you will have money now and money for the rest of your life and for your children and their grandchildren.”

The key, says Hai, is that everyone works together, “that we think about the future, about the big picture.”

A Helping Hand Dzung from Jungle Boss Homestay also believes in the idea of working together and positive competition. His own

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“‘Five or six years ago those people who work in tourism now used to be hunters, and cut down trees. These jobs stop them [doing that].

Now they look after the environment. They know they have to keep the environment clean so people will come back’” addition to the pot has been the creation of The Phong Nha Homestay Community together with a website for a number of guesthouses — phongnhahomestay.com. This way he can help other business owners who have one huge disadvantage; they don’t speak much English.

“We work together,” he explains. “I send people to the other homestays. If they’re full, they can send to me. So we try to help them… and I’m helping them with emails and so on.”

For him it’s important that everyone gets benefit from the influx of tourist dollars to Phong Nha. At my homestay I’ve got three rooms and I’ve got some locals working for me,” he says. “I try to persuade my guests to take Easy Rider, so they can support local people who will drive you to the caves on motorbikes. I myself run a hiking tour to the abandoned valley where you can do one-day hiking, explore a cave and the jungle and

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swim into the cave.

“That way you can involve people working as porters to carry food and equipment. It benefits the community. That’s what we’re all doing at the moment — Phong Nha Farmstay, us, Oxalis. We try to involve more local people. A lot of people have a job now.

He adds: “Five or six years ago those people who work in tourism now used to be hunters, and cut down trees. These jobs stop them [doing that] and now we’re in the same boat. Now they look after the environment. They know they have to keep the environment clean so people will come back, and they collect rubbish.”

This ethos of working together is reflected

by Ben Mitchell.

“To develop a good town for tourism, we’re trying to get everyone to work together… to make sure that everyone’s making some money out of it, and that the [experience] is good for the customers so

that they’re going away from Phong Nha and not having gripes.”

In Search of Diversity To ensure that the money truly gets spread around, it’s important that it’s not focused on one place — the centre of Phong Nha Village. This is something that concerns Ngoc from Tuan Ngoc restaurant who feels that the centre of the village is now looking like a city, while head out just 2km, and people are still very poor.

“There is a big gap between rich and poor,” she says. “I would like to see things change, like they’ve changed with the Pub With Cold Beer. Before, the couple who owned the place were very poor. Now they have a new house, a lot of people come there to eat their food. I want other people to be like them. I want the tourism to spread out and help local people.”

Ben Mitchell has a number of answers to this conundrum. While as Howard says, inevitably people from outside the province

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“‘Can you imagine what the locals would think if they hadn’t had the opportunity to be part of it all? They’d be making life very difficult’” will come in, buy up land and start trying to make some money — they’re already having issues with the bus companies — there is much that can be done locally.

One idea that Ben has is to try and expand the different types of business models that everyone has. Through this fashion they can create a place with diversity rather than one which is full of copycats with each business providing exactly the same product as the next.

He cites the example of Bong Lai Valley, 5km to the east of Phong Nha Village. There are a number of locally owned businesses there — Wild Boar Eco Farm, The Duck Stop, Muoi Muoi Restaurant, The Pub With Cold Beer, The Pepper House Farmstay — and each one has a different model, a different attraction.

The Wild Boar Eco Farm, for example,

is a chill-out places with wild boars, while The Duck Stop sells refreshments and home-grown pepper. The Pub With Cold Beer is famous for its barbecued chicken and, naturally, the cold beer, while Muoi Muoi cooks up good, wholesome local food.

Then there’s the Pepper House Homestay with its four rooms around a pool. “It’s a big swimming pool set in the middle of the countryside with nothing around it,” says Ben. “It’s really, really beautiful.”

Another idea he’s pushing is branding the locally grown pepper.

“We’re trying to make Phong Nha black pepper famous,” he explains. “We’ve already got The Nam Hai and Victoria Hoi An using the pepper in their kitchens. And someone in Hoi An is selling the pepper.”

And then there’s the concept of marketing Phong Nha as three separate

areas: Phong Nha Village, Bong Lai Valley and Farmstay Village.

While Ben cites unforeseen problems like growing amounts of rubbish being strewn around the town and difficulties dealing with waste, the general outlook is positive.

“Everything here is for the community,” he says. “It’s not individualistic. And it’s not everyone trying to cut everyone off all the time.”

Yet Ben is also aware that as a foreigner who’s running two successful businesses in the area, he has to give something back.

By thinking and acting in the interest of the community at large, it allows him to live and operate in Phong Nha. “Can you imagine what the locals would think if they hadn’t had the opportunity to be part of it all?” he says. “They’d be making life very difficult.”

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Insider

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Ho Chi Minh City

Thanks to Facebook, I first heard about the Saigon Urban Flea Market at Saigon Outcast two years ago and Saigon Flea Market in District 7 last year. I recently discovered 1Spot in front of Victory Hotel on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia when I was heading to the Songkran Water Festival in April.

“It has been six years since we held the first Saigon Flea Market. Now we run it every weekend,” says Doan Thu Hang, founder of Saigon Flea Market.

It’s a humid and hot afternoon when I come to Hang’s flea market at IDECAF for a chat. Despite the weather, there are quite a number of visitors including locals and foreigners. Wandering around the market, I start to understand why the flea market has become a phenomenon.

Business Opportunities “I sell my products online as I cannot afford a shop,” says Tuyen, owner of Ms. Tuyen, a stall specialising in fried meat. “So this is a good chance for me to get my products popular and find more clients.”

“I got involved last year and have seen my business improve,” she continues as she packs a box of fried pork for me. “So I think I will stick with this market for a while.”

Tuyen is not the only advocate; Nhung from Amy in Love also has a small corner for her table that displays handmade necklaces and stacks of fake tattoos. “We have had the stall here several times,” she explains. “Sales are still slow but now we have some regular clients.”

INSIDER

NATIONAL

Not Only Cheap, It’s Flea Out of nowhere, flea markets have appeared in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

But what makes them such a phenomenon?

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Treasure Hunt Occupying the whole front yard of IDECAF’s library, the market has around 30 stalls with various products including clothes, bags, shoes, accessories, soaps, ceramics and more. My visit coincides with the first time that Saigon Flea Market has been held at the institute.

“We focus on handmade, designed and vintage items, second-hand goods and imported products,” says Hang. “This attracts visitors who are interested in one-of-a-kind products as well as limited collections.”

As someone who is a fan of buying things second-hand, I understand the feeling of being able to find the rarest items after searching for hours. These flea markets help save time finding those items. In addition, products are cheaper at flea markets than at shops due to taxes and rental.

“I bought this cute bag at Saigon Urban Flea Market for VND150,000. Yeah, I know, so cheap,” Sian, a colleague, told me not long ago.

A Place to Hangout Although Saigon Urban Flea Market offers some entertainment including live music, rock climbing, henna drawing and food and drink counters, at IDECAF they put on their first live acoustic show.

“We are thinking about having food and drink counters in the future,” says Hang.

This is a good sign for not only Saigon Flea Market but also the whole scene, as people who are not interested in shopping (i.e. most men) can hang out at flea markets while the women have more time for their favourite hobby. Another advantage of flea markets is that they take place at weekends.

— Vu Ha Kim Vy

Flea Markets in Ho Chi Minh City.

1Spot facebook.com/1spot.moreinone 2day SALE facebook.com/2daysale Saigon Flea Market facebook.com/saigon.flea.market Saigon Urban Flea Market facebook.com/saigonurbanfleamarket Sale 4Share facebook.com/Sale4Share.Fair Viet’s Corner Flea Market facebook.com/vietscorner.fleamarket

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Hanoi

Flea markets are less common in Hanoi than in Ho Chi Minh City, largely due to a lack of available space, says Bong Hai Anh, cofounder of the Hanoi Uppik flea market.

Most suitable venues in Hanoi are owned by the government rather than private entities, which makes it harder to secure long-term agreements for space.

Nevertheless, Hai Anh has helped build the original Hanoi Flea Market — the first of its kind in the capital, which started several years ago — into its successful offshoot, Hanoi Uppik.

Most recently, the market was held at The Yard, but it has now been relocated to the Hanoi Youth Culture and Sports Palace (1 Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung).

Hai Anh says the idea was not necessarily to cater to shopaholics, but rather to offer teens and young adults an outdoor recreational activity in a city that at times lacks options.

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“The problem is (the youth) don’t have any place to go,” she says. “They can go out , hang out with friends, but then they get bored. All you can do here is go out, go to coffee shops and the cinema. That’s it.”

Other successful flea markets have followed Hai Anh’s lead.

Flea Market City If you’re well-versed in Hanoi’s nightlife scene, you’ve likely been to Hanoi Rock City a time or two, but you may not know that it transforms into a creative haven and shopping centre by day.

An outdoor flea market at the venue, a fairly new venture, opens for the last Saturday and Sunday of every month starting at 9am. Entrance costs VND10,000, which covers the cost of keeping the business open longer hours.

Most of the vendors sell trendy clothing, but other booths display make-up, baked

goods, handmade craft items and even lingerie.

Dang Anh Tuan, the creator of Sakana Paper, sells notebooks made from Japanese paper with colourful designs printed onto the covers. He came to the flea market for the first time in April.

“It’s a good environment,” he says. “A lot of foreigners and nice people; nice music also.”

Pham Lan Anh, owner of the Flanh clothing shop inside Hanoi Rock City and founder of the flea market committee, says she wanted to create a fun hangout space for creative minds to come together.

“I want people to come here and we can learn from each other,” she explains. “We can share something about art.”

Once you get your fill of shopping, you can dig into some poutine on sale by the bar, or head upstairs for a film screening.

Or, if you still have money left over, you

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can head down the street to another flea market in front of the Syrena Shopping Center on Xuan Dieu.

Chic and Cheap This one, called the Chic and Cheap Flea Market, is a little larger with about 50 booths to browse through. Vendors sell everything from handmade hairbands to herbal tea to baby clothes.

It’s held twice a month on Sundays (upcoming markets will open on Jun. 12 and Jun. 26).

Nguyen Minh Ngoc founded the flea market with her friend, Bui Thu Trang, four years ago. They sold secondhand clothing, and the flea market proved popular.

“Actually, it was more like a garage

sale,” Ngoc says. “We held it in the yard of a secondary school. It went better than we expected, and then we started to do it regularly.”

While the concept of flea markets is still relatively new in Hanoi, Ngoc says people seem to enjoy coming to Chic and Cheap because it’s a “one-stop destination” to pick up a variety of items.

She says many people try to open flea markets, but few are successful because of the challenges that come with finding a space to set up shop.

“There are new markets every day, and they die the next day,” she explains. “Right now only good ones prevail. To name a few: Hoa Hoc Tro Garage Sale, Fashion Feast, Hanoi Uppik and The New District.”

— Emily Petsko

Flea in Hanoi Chic and Cheap facebook.com/pages/ChicCheap-FleaMarket/187853758007900 Fashion Feast facebook.com/ Fashion-Feast-449443965232335 Hanoi Rock City facebook.com/hanoirockcity.welive Hanoi Uppik facebook.com/HanoiUppik Hoa Hoc Tro Garage Sale facebook.com/HhtsGarageSale

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Food and Drink

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MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Minh Thuy’s Family Restaurant German cuisine cooked up by a Vietnamese top-seven MasterChef contestant? Our Mystery Diner heads to Minh Thuy’s. Photos by Julie Vola

THE VERDICT

12 FOOD

13

SERVICE

11

DÉCOR

I

f you’re looking for top-quality German cuisine for a reasonable price, look no further than Minh Thuy’s Family Restaurant.

Located on the busy border of Hoan Kiem, Minh Thuy’s is easy to find, and once inside, you’re struck by the simplicity of the Germanic design. Red-and-white check cloths over the tables give the restaurant a real diner atmosphere, and the bar is decorated like a Bavarian cottage, adding a feel of European sentimentality. Minh Thuy has her MasterChef apron hanging proudly from the wall.

I’m instantly stuck by the amount of choice on the menu — in fact it’s a little overwhelming; maybe this is something that they ought to consider addressing. Once your eyes start scrolling over the options, however, you’re struck again, this time by how reasonable the prices are.

On To the Food My first choice — the goulash with

mashed potatoes at VND120,000 — is a good-sized portion guaranteed to fill your stomach. Tender beef, carrots and an assortment of other wellcooked vegetables swimming in a sea of thick gravy are complemented with a dunk of mashed potatoes in the middle sticking out like a volcanic island. The dish went down a treat and almost left me unable to finish my side dishes — a real heavy German meal.

On the side I have a large bowl of German potato salad — potatoes in mayonnaise with vegetables and scrambled egg (VND60,000).

A very tasty accomplice to my main meal, the potato salad is well prepared and given its size, is very good value.

Finally, I have some garlic bread to finish it all off; at VND25,000 they make excellent dippers for my beef goulash.

To water your meal down you can also choose a German beer for a reasonable price, otherwise a Halida

or Hanoi beer will cost you only VND15,000 for a large bottle. And once you have finished your meal you can sit back and relax with a large cup of tea for just VND5,000 while you wait for your food to digest and watch the Old Quarter buzz past out the window.

The food in Minh Thuy’s is of a high standard and the service certainly has a family warmth about it. If you’re looking for a filling, German-inspired meal, this is the place to go in Hanoi.

Alternatively, if you’re just looking for some well-cooked Vietnamese food, you can still pull up a chair here. The menu is full of choice from a range of different influences.

In all, myself and a friend each had a main course, a drink and shared generous sides for a total of just VND315,000 and left feeling very content.

Minh Thuy’s Family Restaurant is located at 2A Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Fowl Play Ted Dalton heads to Chicken Street to get a taste of that most beloved of Hanoi dishes — barbecued chicken. Photos by Julie Vola

S

o delicious is Vietnamese street food that we are all prepared to take the eternal gastric gamble that eating on the street represents.

However, as we prepare to tuck into a flame-grilled feast at the appropriately nicknamed Chicken Street (Ly Van Phuc, Dong Da) I can’t help but recall two news stories I read a few years ago.

Back in 2013, police in Guangxi confiscated 20 tonnes of frozen chicken feet which dated back to 1967, while only

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a year after that Chinese authorities seized 30,000 tonnes of chicken feet soaking in hydrogen peroxide; a chemical which can make the feet seem whiter and cleaner.

Half of Vietnam’s northern border is shared with Guangxi, so trade in produce continues to be extremely prevalent. I eyeball the charred chicken foot in my hand and wonder; how many rolls will I need for my next bathroom drama. But food is a pleasure I will endure a measure of risk for, and the smell of an entire street

of restaurants barbequing chicken is too overpowering to resist.

Clucking Delicious KFC deserve some credit for pioneering the greatest unit of measurement of all time. I don’t want a plate of chicken feet, nor a bowl of fries. I want a bucket of chicken. I want a vat of fried sweet potatoes, and I want a gazebo of honeyglazed bread. The scale of the operation in Chicken Street is astonishing. Multiple

copycat restaurants with huge buckets of pre-marinated chicken ready to grill.

Beside the buckets of chicken, hundreds of baguettes await their fiery fate. It’s efficient, if a little worrisome from a hygiene perspective.

The chicken here is a masterclass in simplicity. As I’m tearing into the crispy skin of a chicken thigh to get to the succulent meat beneath, I’ve already got my eye on the chicken feet and wings on the table. When discussing fried or grilled

chicken, the general consensus seems to be that the skin is the best part. So it’s no surprise that chicken feet remain so popular among Vietnamese and foreigners alike, as there is almost no meat on them at all. Just skin, marinated, charred and piping hot, enthusiastically gnawed off of the bone by Vietnamese teens out in droves.

As a carb-fiend, my favourite part of the meal are the extras. A baguette, painted with honey, flattened and then grilled over fire is dangerously moreish. Equally

calorific are the honey-grilled sweet potatoes, of which one portion is never enough. A splash of chilli sauce, a plate of pickled cucumbers and an iced fresh beer round off the meal perfectly. If you can overlook the dour setting and questionable hygiene standards, arguably the greatest barbeque in Hanoi awaits you.

Chicken Street can be found in Ly Van Phuc, Dong Da, Hanoi. We ate at Quan Viet Ha, where 18 dishes with three drinks cost VND370,000.

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Food and Drink

MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

My Banh Mi This month our undercover reporter makes a departure from top-end restaurants and instead heads to a purveyor, albeit a top-end purveyor, of the humble banh mi. Photos by Bao Zoan

V

ietnam boasts a top-10 global street food scene, according to the BBC, the Guardian, Lonely Planet, the Wall Street Journal and many, many others. So naturally my date and I head to one of the swankier banh mi joints in the city: My Banh Mi. Managed by Frank Chinn on behalf of his son, celebrity chef Bobby Chinn, well-known German chef Andreas Ertle, plus four other partners, My Banh Mi gets the love online.

People rave about the sandwiches, the bread, the meat, the mix of traditional and new.

Look on, say, TripAdvisor, and in addition to an impressive 4.5-star rating, you’ll find review after review titled with some variant of “Best Banh Mi”.

Not Your Average Banh Mi Stall The menu was a surprise. For a simple banh mi joint, it boasts imported New Zealand striploin steaks, charcoal-grilled chicken, soup, salad, pasta, and even a small wine list. When I learnt that the menu was created and originally cooked up by both Bobby Chinn and Andreas Ertle, it made more sense. This is not, in fact, a simple banh mi

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joint; it is a sit-down restaurant based on a dish whose origins go back to the 19th century and the French colonialists.

To start, we ordered a bratwurst with sauerkraut (VND145,000) and spring rolls (VND50,000). The grilled sausage, with a lovely crisped skin, tasted surprisingly authentic when dipped in mustard. The spring rolls were standard deep-fried affairs, garnished with lettuce and sweetand-spicy dipping sauce.

Not Your Average Banh Mi For our mains, my date got the traditional banh mi (VND55,000), with slow-roasted pork. I ordered France’s banh mi “Amour” (VND95,000), with slow-roasted imported sirloin and a wonderful, zingy creamy smoked black pepper sauce. Both of the sandwiches had generous portions of meat and pork paté, as well as the expected sliced cucumber, cilantro, spring onion and chilli. Everything was high quality, and the resulting sandwiches were tasty and surprisingly filling. I truly appreciated the quality of the bread, crispy-crusted and more substantial than the usual airy loaves

one finds in the street stalls.

I also had a fun little attempt to order a double cappuccino, ignoring one of my cardinal rules when going out; if there’s any chance of misunderstanding, let my date do the talking. I received a smooth, foamy cappuccino with enough caffeine to orbit a small satellite. When I checked the bill at home, I found I’d been charged for a cappuccino (VND50,000) and a double espresso (VND75,000), neatly explaining my shaking hands. More sensibly, my date ordered lemon tea (VND35,000).

Misplaced in Translation That little scene summed up the service at My Banh Mi. Willing and enthusiastic, a few problems in translation nevertheless cropped up. I initially ordered Italy’s banh mi “Amore” before changing to the similar sounding “Amour”. That took some explaining, but they got me the right dish on the first try.

The décor is fine, mostly consisting of prints showing off old Saigon, and a nice yellow fabric billowing down from the ceiling. The washroom was clean and wellstocked, and that’s not something I take for

THE VERDICT

12 FOOD

11

SERVICE

10.5 DÉCOR

granted. My only issue was how few lights were on. True, we arrived near to closing time, but still, the lighting was so dim I nearly had to use my phone’s light to read the menu. A small issue, in the grand scheme of things, but one that might deter others.

What Is the Best Banh Mi in the City?

So, is it the best banh mi? Cost-wise you’re never going to beat a street banh mi, so why try and compete? That seems to have been the idea here — create a superior product made with quality ingredients. The meat is better and there’s more of it, the bread tastier and denser. And yet banh mi is one of those foods you love in part for its imperfections.

I understand the idea of taking banh mi upmarket. It’s been done in restaurants outside of Vietnam and it works. In the case of My Banh Mi, they’ve produced a great product, one that can comfortably compete with the magic that made banh mi so popular in the first place: served from a tiny stall, wrapped in yesterday’s newspaper.

My Banh Mi is located at 57 Nguyen Du, Q1, HCMC. You can visit them online at mybanhmisaigon.com

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER

HCMC

Banh Trang Trang Bang Rice paper rolled up with boiled pork and vegetables… There’s a reason that this dish from Tay Ninh near the Cambodian border is a Saigon favourite.

Words by Vi Pham. Photos by Siân Kavanagh

S

aigon is a melting pot of recipes from different regions in Vietnam, but not every dish can reach the level of being tasty, nutritious and affordable enough to capture a market.

Banh trang Trang Bang (Trang Bang rice paper) is one of the few street foods that has managed to bloom on Saigon’s busy sidewalks. More than a dish, it is the pride of a developing province in Vietnam — Tay Ninh.

As one of the most industrialised districts of Tay Ninh, Trang Bang gathers its fame from its practice of making banh trang and the tradition of producing banh trang phoi suong (rice paper with midnight dew). Last April the dish won an award for being an intangible part of Vietnam’s cultural heritage.

The Art of Making Banh Trang For the locals, it is not a coincidence for that this dish from Trang Bang won the award.

They earned it for their hard-working spirit and most of all, the innovation behind the traditionally thin and vulnerable banh trang.

Banh trang Trang Bang is a table of herbs, pickled carrot, juicy boiled pork slices, rice noodles, a dip and the essential wrapping, rice paper. Having realised that regular rice paper or banh trang would be too weak to wrap around such a diverse and rich filling, the people of Trang Bang came up with a thicker and chewier version— banh trang phoi suong. It’s also more complicated to make.

Compared to regular banh trang, this version requires twice the number of steps. After making the regular sheets of banh trang, two layers of rice paper are

combined and placed on a flat bamboo net and then dried under the sun. This allows the thickness to form and the two layers to become one. When dry, the rice paper is grilled over a stove to create extra puffiness.

The banh trang is then exposed to the night air to absorb the midnight dew. This is when the chewiness forms, making the rice paper suitable to make into rolls. The people who produce the rice paper have to wake up early to check on the product and go to sleep around midnight to ensure that it has the correct exposure to the night air.

“The hardest step is the exposure process,” says Mrs. Lanh, a banh trang phoi suong maker who has run her family business for more than 20 years.

“If the weather is too hot, the sheets crack easily, and it’s even worse during rainy season when it pours down at random times.

There is a high chance we’ll lose everything if we don’t get the banh trang sheets covered in time.”

More than a Street Food The tradition of making banh trang phoi suong has become so well-known and celebrated that the town now has its very own tourist industry. Tours to a banh trang village and around the family factories where the rice paper is made attract a lot of attention, and not surprisingly, banh trang phoi suong is a favourite souvenir.

But there is one more thing that makes this dish so appealing — the healthy filling.

One of the essential ingredients in a full meal of banh trang Trang Bang is the stack of fresh herbs. These herbs together go by the rustic

name of rau rung (vegetables that grow in the forest).

Just one bite into a roll and you can taste the different combination of flavours coming from the jungle vegetables. Said to have medicinal properties, the herbs help reduce body temperature during the dry season when southern Vietnam heats up like a furnace. As the demand for banh trang Trang Bang expands, so the traditional sources of rau rung are not enough to fulfil demand.

This increases the opportunity for families in Trang Bang to develop their own herb and vegetable business. Every day, trucks filled with homegrown products carry the freshness to Saigon streets and deliver them to everywhere from street stalls to restaurants.

Information Despite the numerous places selling banh trang Trang Bang, not every location can plate the quality ingredients.

Here are a few joints to check out for a great experience — the price varies from VND60,000 to VND120,000 per portion.

B ANH T RANG T RANG B ANG 174 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Q2

B ANH

TRANG

H OANG T Y

70-72 Vo Van Tan, Q3

B ANH T RANG U T D UNG

411-413 Nguyen Tri Phuong, Q10

Travel

As beach after Southeast Asian beach goes commercial, Jesse Meadows returns to her own personal Mecca in Thailand to see if Tonsai, too, has gone under the hammer

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TRAVEL

THAILAND

The Tourification of Tonsai

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W

e all have a happy place.

Coordinates that were so perfect, the memory serves as mental refuge for years after we’ve left. I found mine when I floated in the waters of Tonsai Beach, a rock climbing mecca of massive, looming cliffs and slow, salt-drenched tranquility.

Close to Krabi in Thailand, Tonsai sits to the west of the Railay beaches, a short climb through the jungle or walk along the rocks at low tide. It’s a different world entirely when you cross to Railay, all resorts and big flat sands. Tonsai is rougher. There’s not much beach to lounge on here, but in the small strip of wet sand exposed when the water goes out, you can lay under the jagged outcrop and watch the climbers try to figure out the rock.

There’s only one road in town, and just a handful of reggae bars. A massive grey wall lines the road, blocking off land where a new resort is slated to be built. Some days there’s a barge on the beach, bringing in supplies to develop my beautiful Tonsai.

“We don’t like this wall,” says red, yellow and green graffiti.

At night, the climbers converge on Sunset Bar. There they sit around a hollowed-out longtail boat and roll spliff after spliff. I sip an apple shake and listen to the conversation about how much Tonsai is changing. “They just rebuilt this bar six months ago. It was Tofi’s dream,” someone says.

Tofi is a charismatic Thai man with a

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ponytail, a constant smile, and a repertoire of catch phrases. A stranger to no-one, he’s a fixture behind the bar.

That was a year ago, and I hadn’t been able to get Tonsai out of my head. Had they built the resort? Was my happy place no more, manicured to death and overrun with Russian tourists? I needed to go back, so I hopped a flight to Bangkok, caught a night bus to Krabi, and jumped on a longtail boat out of Ao Nang.

Another Brick in the Wall My feet hit the surf in relief. The trees were still there. They hadn’t brought in fake sand, or built a JW Marriott. I began the trek uphill towards town, past that damn wall. It was still there, but it was no longer just grey concrete. A fancy place called the Tonsai Bay Resort had been built on one side of it, golf carts and green lawns looking laughably out of place.

The community had written their distaste all over the wall that was meant to keep them out. “Yes, they sold Tonsai to the pirates,” said one message. “You are now leaving the capitalistic sector,” said another, as I passed the resort and headed into the jungle.

New bars and restaurants had cropped up, but my favourites were still there; Chill Out Bar, Sabai Sabai, Mama’s Chicken. And there was Tofi, behind the stick at Sunset, just where I’d left him a year ago.

Tofi had been in Tonsai for a decade, ever

since someone came to Railay Beach looking for help with the electricity. Unsatisfied working there, he agreed to come along, and he never went back. He opened Sunset Bar three years later. When I asked him about the changes that were happening, he shrugged again. “Slowly, slowly,” he replied.

And it’s true, nothing happens fast in Tonsai. There’s no urgency here, nowhere to be but wherever you are. I sat at Sunset for hours that night, watching the characters come and go. There are no real ‘locals’ here; the beach was discovered by climbers 20 years ago, and most of the Thai people who work here come from the countryside or the islands.

That night, Tofi invited me to his village. I was reluctant to leave Tonsai again so soon, but my curiosity told me I couldn’t say no.

The next morning I was in his SUV, on an hour-long ride into middle-of-nowhere Krabi with three other Westerners. Among us was Ian, an Australian climbing instructor who had been coming to Tonsai for the past 10 years. This time, he’d been on the beach for two-and-a-half months, and welcomed this chance to escape the bubble.

Bubble We couldn’t have gotten further from it. Tofi took us to a tiny Muslim village that rarely ever sees foreigners, save for the ones he brings from Tonsai. I ate quite possibly the best goat curry of my life, drank a herbal, highly caffeinated tea called jungle juice with

“That was a year ago, and I hadn’t been able to get Tonsai out of my head. Had they built the resort?

Was my happy place no more, manicured to death and overrun with Russian tourists?

I needed to go back”

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Tofi’s uncle, and went night fishing with his brother. There was no running water, no showers, and just a blanket on the floor to sleep on, but we didn’t need anything else.

Back on Tonsai, I thought about all the bartenders and waiters and firespinners, and how every one of them had a hometown outside the bubble, too. There was Mamai, a singer who entertained us every night. Lucky, who ran the ice cream shop next to Sunset Bar. And Mama, who made the best chicken on Tonsai, with the help of her three daughters.

“I’ve watched them grow up,” Ian remarked over a chicken sandwich one night. He’s been watching Tonsai change for years. Lately, he says, less climbers have been coming, and there’s been an influx of ‘flashpackers’, twenty-somethings on a gap year, in search of liquor in buckets.

“I think we have at least two more years before they start building,” he said, as we walked past the walled-off beachfront property opposite the Tonsai Bay Resort.

“They’ll bulldoze the rocks and bring in fake sand, like they did in Railay.” The climbing community had tried to stop the development in the beginning, writing up a petition to ‘Save Tonsai’ with tens of thousands of signatures, but it was no use.

I was supposed to leave the next day, but thinking about Tonsai’s tourified future, I couldn’t bring myself to do it. Who knew how many times I could come back before it was just another pretty beach in Thailand?

Maybe it was the full moon messing with my logic, but I logged onto Sunset’s WiFi and changed my flights like a star-crossed lover. I spent the next couple of days soaking in the salt and sand, baptising myself in the sea and the slow pace of life.

This trip to Tonsai showed me a side I hadn’t thought about the first time I’d stumbled upon it as a wide-eyed backpacker.

Visiting Tofi’s village and meeting his family, I saw what was behind the beers I bought at Sunset Bar, and how important it is to consider where I spend my money and who I support with it.

Am I funding some faceless foreign millionaire who put up a resort on a Thai beach, or a local family running a guesthouse? Do I travel for myself, or do I travel to experience a culture other than my own? When it comes to tourism, money speaks louder than words. We may not be able to stop corporate development, but we can put our money back into the local communities that give us such unforgettable experiences.

“When it comes to tourism, money speaks louder than words.

We may not be able to stop corporate development, but we can put our money back into the local communities that give us such unforgettable experiences”

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Travel

TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

The Other Side of Maldives Paradise-like beaches, crystal clear seas, tropical nirvana… Yet as Tran Cam Thu discovers, there’s far more to this group of islands than first meets the eye. Photos by Hang Le

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T

hree years ago, on a rather idyllic day at work, our Singaporean project manager was doing market research for an idea for his upcoming wedding. “Girls, what would be your ideal honeymoon destination?”

The three singletons said in perfect unison, “Why do you even have to ask? The Maldives!” (Back then we were unaware of El Nido or Seychelles or Bora Bora, and Bali and Phuket already seemed too worn-out to be considered.)

Maldives; two syllables that conjure up images of bone-white sand, turquoise water, and water villas on stilts that only royal families, celebrities and similarly wealthy resort-goers can afford. Maldives; the ultimate wedding/anniversary/who-needsa-reason destination daydreamers like me save up for for years.

That’s how it was for nearly 40 years after the Republic of Maldives opened its first resort in 1972, something that was kept separate from the country’s residents by the then-President. Given that the country consists of a double chain of 26 atolls with 1,192 islands, there would seem to be enough sun, sand and sea for everyone.

But things took a big turn in 2009 when the Maldivian government started to allow guesthouses to be opened on the populated islands rather than limiting tourism to the uninhabited islands. Budget travellers can now stay with locals and gain an insight into the islanders’ lives while enjoying the same natural beauty as those royals and celebrities.

Partly in the name of writerly research and partly to indulge a long-standing personal fantasy, I learned that the upper limit on the cost of accommodations in the Maldives is, not infinity as I previously believed, but a bit less. Velaa Private Island Resort houses the most expensive room in the Maldives at US$30,000 per night. That’s not a typo.

I now can believe the story that a Russian millionaire, at the end of his vacation, asked for his guide’s backpack and stuffed it with US$3,000 in cash as a tip for a few days’

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work. I’m seriously considering seeking employment in the Maldives high-end tourism industry.

Getting In Most international flights to the Maldives land at Ibrahim Nasir International Airport in Hulhulmale, where the majority of tourists board connecting domestic flights or take seaplanes or speedboats to other islands. On a shoestring budget, we spent a night in Hulhulmale and the next day took a less-than-glamorous ferry to Male (the capital) and on to the island of Maafushi.

Hulhulmale struck us as an artificial island reclaimed to provide the needed landmass for growing residential and commercial demand of Male. Since being among apartment buildings that look like sisters to the Linh Dam urban area of Hanoi was not our idea of holidaying, much less paradise, we quickly escaped via the 20-minute ferry ride to Male.

The Capital And what an escape it was. Measured in people per square kilometre Male happens to be the one of the most crowded cities in the world. We arrived on New Year’s Eve, but I doubt that other days are any better. The air was full of exhaust fumes from cars and scooters vying for space with pedestrians in the narrow, tangled alleys. It reminded me of the Old Quarter of Hanoi just before Tet,

which is nothing you’d normally associate with the stereotyped ethereal Maldives.

As the Maldives is a Muslim country, alcohol cannot be bought or consumed in public there. We tried to find a coffee shop in which to ‘escape from our escape’ but there were hardly any in sight. We bought some imported Australian bottled juice and waited for the New Year’s Eve traffic to thin out before heading back to Hulhumale.

When it comes to travelling, there are places you know in your heart you would or at least wish to come back to someday. Neither Hulhulmale nor Male makes that list for me.

From Male, we took a taxi to the Vilingili ferry terminal and boarded another ferry to Maafushi where we would stay for three days. We arrived early, but the tickets for the morning ferry were already sold out.

I shuddered at the thought of hanging around Male waiting for the afternoon ferry.

Luckily we met a tourist who had managed to secure a private boat and was rounding up other tourists in the same predicament.

Our (slower) boat cost US$10 per person compared to US$200 for a speedboat.

Maafushi — Not Your Resort Island It was high noon when we disembarked at Maafushi, one of the local islands opened up for tourism close to Male. Two people were already directing visitors to their hotels.

We were told to go stand in the shade and someone would take care of our luggage.

“I headed to ‘paradise’ with my girlfriends, expecting to myth-bust a tourist trap. I came back in love with an island with a small-town feel, a turquoise green sea and white sand beach, and the life-loving attitude of some funny guys who run a modest guesthouse”

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“Budget travellers can now stay with locals and gain an insight into the islanders’ lives while enjoying the same natural beauty as those royals and celebrities” One guy read the suspicion on my face and said with unconcealed disdain: “Don’t worry about the money. This is not Sri Lanka, where even having somebody keep an eye on your luggage costs money.” Since we had just left Colombo two days earlier, I can attest to his accurate knowledge of tourism practice in neighbouring countries.

After much-needed welcome drinks and lunch, we were briefed on the Maldives by Ali, who we took to be the Holiday Lodge Maldives’s owner because he spoke with so much pride and confidence about the Maldives and embodied everything we loved about the hotel and the island of Maafushi. With Ali’s help we designed an itinerary for the next two-and-a-half days.

Ali frankly answered all our questions about what you can and cannot see at that time of the year, and customized a tour for us to make the most out of our limited time and money.

Simple Joys We retired to our rooms to get ready for the night fishing, which almost everyone staying at the lodge was eager to try. After multiple failed attempts to catch a fish, even with patient instruction from the super helpful professionals on board, I decided to slack off and wait for the others to finish. I lay down on the deck, feeling the cool breeze caress my skin, soaking in the star-coated velvety sky, and soon dozed off to the lulling sound of the boat engine.

Apparently utopia doesn’t need to be bought at a whopping 30 grand.

When we got back to the lodge, tables had been nicely set along the seafront and the staff immediately began grilling our catch, generously supplemented with fish from their kitchen. I pulled my knees up, wrapped a scarf around my body, and revelled in the beauty and tranquillity of the dark ocean on my left and the lights of the ‘village’ on my right. I finally understood the appeal of this island for me. It was like the Vietnam of 15 years ago. Not completely untouched but not yet devoured by commercialisation.

I loved the lodge’s personal touches — a frangipani here, an oil lamp there, the tentative waiter who took his time setting out the cutlery as if it were Victorian Era

silverware and served your food as if you were royalty.

I thought again of the charming manager, Ali, whose sharp tongue entertained and whose warmth and authenticity shone through. When you’ve stayed in five-star hotels where the staff display manufactured smiles and answer you with scripted replies, a small lodge like this is refreshingly personable and a welcome break from the standardisation that is swiftly overtaking the hospitality industry.

All Equal Before the Sea The next morning at 10 (“early” according to Ali) we set out for a day of snorkelling.

Corals are not the selling point of the Maldives but I was impressed with more than 50 mesmerising shades of blue and green that I had glimpsed from the plane the day before and fell in love with the turquoise water whose shade varied with its depth. Our knowledgeable guide and our speedboat driver whom we fondly referred to as our Captain, took us to an area that was ours alone.

I was unlucky enough to miss both a beautiful turtle and a baby shark that swam by, but the colourful Maldives fish (including many Nemos), dolphins, and flying fish I saw more than made up for it. After a few hours of oohing over the flora and aahing over the fauna and posing for underwater photos with our merman-guide, we flopped onto a sandbank for a late lunch catered by our lodge.

The ‘Village’ We spent the late afternoon exploring Maafushi, which you can circle in 20 minutes on foot. At the island’s southern end is the largest prison in the country — it has held a number of prominent inmates, including a former president. Western tourists in shorts passed Muslim girls wearing abayat and niqab (meaning they were covered from head to toe except for their eyes) on the island’s unpaved paths. No bikinis are allowed on public beaches in the Maldives, but there is a small stretch partitioned off where the private beach looked like any beach in the world, dotted with tourists in usual swimwear.

That evening we had dinner in the lodge’s lovely garden. Ali had brought in a singer from Male who performed covers of timeless ballads such as Wonderful Tonight and a beautiful, sad Maldivian song to give us a taste of Maldivian culture. This inspired one of the guests to sing Avril Lavigne’s I’m With You for her partner, which prompted Ali to invite her to sing something for the rest of us. She sang a song from her country, Russia, which for a brief five minutes transported me to another world. The randomness of all this made us appreciate all the more the small-town feel of Maafushi and the intimacy of a place like the lodge.

Options The Maldives is a destination we are often advised to save for our honeymoon. I headed to “paradise” with my girlfriends, expecting to myth-bust a tourist trap. I came back in love with an island with a small-town feel, a turquoise green sea and white sand beach, and the life-loving attitude of some funny guys who run a modest guesthouse. Do I wish I could recount the experience of staying in a super luxurious resort that costs a few grand a night or spending the night in a secluded villa above water with nothing in sight except the ocean?

Yes, it would surely feel more than great, if not just for the feel of exclusivity and extravagance and make for good conversation (read, bragging) with friends and acquaintances. Yet having a limited budget does not mean we have to miss out on another kind of experience in the Maldives. The kind that is arguably equally enjoyable, or just satisfying in a different way.

Getting There AirAsia offer direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to The Maldives. Alternatively, you can fly via Bangkok with Bangkok Airways. Flights from Bangkok start at VND5.5 million one-way before tax and other extras. From Kuala Lumpur the cheapest fares before extras and taxes cost from VND2 million one-way.

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Travel

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888

anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444

dalatpalace.vn

This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range.

Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999

dalatgreencityhotel.com

Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555

contact@hoteldelopera.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365

dalattrainvilla.com

Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.

In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555

hanoi-daewoohotel.com

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Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396

hanoi.hgi.com

With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia.

Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500

hanoi.hilton.com

Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888

hanoi.intercontinental.com

This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake.

Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

jwmarriotthanoi.com

From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688

maydeville.com

The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343

meliahanoi.com

Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800

moevenpick-hanoi.com

With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

NOVOTEL SUITES 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3576 6666

novotel.com/9813

Suites and apartments with all the mod cons and attrac-

tive décor you’d expect of an Accor property. Located close to My Dinh and 20 minutes from downtown Hanoi, this new property with an inhouse restaurant and bar is perfect for business professionals or travellers looking to mix a stay in Hanoi with the feeling of being located in a place you can call home.

PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688

pullman-hanoi.com

With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000

sheraton.com/hanoi

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown.

In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919

sofitel.com

The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

sixonsixteen.com

Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the

second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969

goldensilkhotel.com

Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048

josephshotel.com

Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999

hanovahotel.com

A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital.

Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372

hanoibackpackershostel.com

Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

Winner of Robb Report’s 2006

list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777

equatorial.com/hcm

This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688

lemeridien.com/saigon

Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creative-minded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333

legendsaigon.com

Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

saigon.newworldhotels.com

PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt.

The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686

pullmanhotels.com

Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity.

Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

riverside-apartments.com

Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1117

renaissance-saigon.com

This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheraton.com/saigon

Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

sofitel.com

WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688

windsorplazahotel.com

The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201

continentalhotel.com.vn

Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914

kimdohotel.com

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926

lanlanhotel.com.vn

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966

alcovehotel.com.vn

M M M HCMC – BUDGET

This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992

NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866

ducvuonghotel.com

from the backpacker’s area.

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699

dunahotel.com

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888

furamavietnam.com

HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915

honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648

sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An

anbangbeachretreat.com

CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231

hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800

danangbeachresort.com.vn

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888

pullman-danang.com

Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway.

And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234

danang.regency.hyatt.com

The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

novotel-saigon-centre.com

Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090

villasong.com

Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City.

Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888

starcitysaigon.vn

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

The newly-built hotel is near

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 125

NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY

Hoi An is not just a place to get clothes made. It also has pagodas and pagodas on bridges

I

t’s my son’s big overseas experience. He stops off at Vietnam on his way from New Zealand to London, where a job awaits him. He is buoyed up by the prospect of life overseas, and raring to go, has but one problem. He is weighted down by far too much baggage. I’ve told him time and time again that travelling light is the only way to go, but then whoever listens to the advice of their oldies?

“Never mind, you can offload a suitcaseful of your stuff with me here in Vung Tau,” I tell him.

He duly jettisons a sleeping bag, binoculars, battery recharger, alarm clock, suitcase, and a ton of clothes, surrendering them to my tender care. He has allocated 10 days for his visit to Vietnam, and, along with three of his mates who are travelling with him, to see a bit more of the country before their flight to the UK. “Well, let’s see… Hanoi’s worth a look, Halong Bay’s a blast, Hue’s interesting, and whatever you do don’t miss Hoi An. It’s a little humdinger of a town, the best in Vietnam in my opinion.”

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After dark the old town of Hoi An lights up over the river

The Trap

By Don Wills

He arrives back at my place eight days later.

He has one arm behind his back and a silly grin on his face.

“What have you got there?”

He sheepishly withdraws his arm to reveal a spruce new business suit.

“You stupid pillock! I thought you wanted to reduce your luggage, not add to it.”

“Yeah, but it was so bloody cheap, and so fast, and so… irresistible. All my mates bought one too,” he added, as if this somehow made his purchase more justifiable.

My son had, like countless travellers before him, succumbed to Hoi An’s famed tourist trap: 24-hour tailor-made clothing.

I can’t say I blame him; I too had splurged on handmade clothes and shoes during my visit there several years previously. The temptation is overpowering. The prices are low, the service fast, and the smiling sales ladies persuasive. Business is booming. Their shops are filled with fabrics of every description piled ceiling-high. The windows display glamorous mannequins garbed in

ENTRY 5:

The Hoi An Tourist Trap

Resorts such as Victoria Hoi An provide a beach experience to add to the charm

all the latest fashions. Out the back there’s the sound of whirring sewing machines.

“OK, so can you make me a pair of trousers, a shirt — no, make that two shirts — and do you do shoes as well? Yes? Alright, I’ll have...”

Once you’ve ordered your clothes, you’ll have plenty of time to explore the riverside town. In Hoi An everything worth seeing is within walking distance. The old quarter is closed to traffic, making it an ideal place for a walkabout. And the attractions are many; museums, pagodas, temples, artisans’ workshops, boat rides on the river, and shops selling paintings, wood carvings, pottery, newly made antiques, and lanterns.

Hoi An has retained its sense of history.

UNESCO has proclaimed it a World Heritage Site, so the tear-it-down-andbuild-anew mindset that plagues many Asian cities doesn’t apply here. Building restrictions ensure that old buildings are preserved in their original form, and things like modernisation and high-rises are strictly a no-no.

What They Say The people at Lonely Planet are obviously as enamoured of Hoi An as I am. They write: “The riverside town oozes charm and culture from every corner. Emphatically the most charming place along the coast, this is one spot worth lingering at.”

Not everyone is as enthused though.

Contributors to the increasingly popular TripAdvisor website are mostly fulsome in their praise of the town (“highlight of our visit”, “Vietnam’s best kept secret”, “a gem of a place”), but there are some critics too.

One indignant contributor urges people to boycott the place because of the US$6 fee charged to enter the old city. Another calls it

“a classic example of cultural degradation as a result of pandering to tourism”. One complains that the people of Hoi An “will do absolutely anything to milk a buck out of you”. There have been reports of slipshod tailoring, gaping holes appearing in dresses after a couple of wearings, and overly pushy salespeople.

But 95 percent of the reports I’ve heard have been positive, and in many cases have been euphoric in their praise. In my book that’s a good enough thumbs-up for me.

Sure, it’s a tourist trap, but I’m not averse to getting trapped once in a while.

Born in New Zealand, Don Wills lives in Vung Tau. He’s been writing his way round the region for decades

Hoi An has retained its sense of history.

UNESCO has proclaimed it a World Heritage Site, so the tear-it-down-and-build-anew mindset that plagues many Asian cities doesn’t apply here

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 127

Travel

with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777

mercure-danang.com

Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix.

THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000

ghmhotels.com

Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800

angsana.com/en/lang_co

Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888

banyantree.com/en/lang_co

Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity

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with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475

la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736

hoangphuonghotel.com

M M M NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222

sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination

2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

junglebeachvietnam.com

On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666

mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900

novotel-nhatrang.com

This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant,

bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222

sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000

sheraton.com/nhatrang

M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727

ninhchubay.com

Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.

BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322

blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111

cocobeach.net

With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those

who opened it in 1995.

JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177

joescafemuine.com

A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix.

MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440

miamuine.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000

victoriahotels.asia

Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844

easytigerphongnha@gmail. com

A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182

phong-nha-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135

phong-nha-cave.com

The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

M M M PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998

beachclubvietnam.com

A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207

mangobayphuquoc.com

An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02

salindaresort.com

Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with contemporary design. The

property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.

M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946

catcathotel.com

The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

topasecolodge.com

With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553

binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939

condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525

hotramresort.com

This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-

galows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631

sanctuary.com.vn

The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach.

Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135

rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222

sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888

thegrandhotramstrip.com

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702

buffalotours.com.vn

A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam.

BTA customizes leisure and

corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150

exotravel.com

A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours.

Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828

handspan.com

Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844

hgtravel.com

Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com).

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308

intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses

on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977

kien@travelsense.asia

A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170

buffalotours.com

This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19

exotravel.com

A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744

flightravelco.com

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

GRASSHOPPER ADVENTURES Tel: 0946 704095

grasshopperadventures.com

Escape the bustle with

Southeast Asia’s top rated bike tour company. Run guided day tours to the Mekong Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels.

Also organize longer, two to 14-day tours throughout Vietnam.

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754

terraverdetravel.com

If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585

vietnamvespaadventure. com

Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659

backofthebiketours.com

Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience.

BEENINASIA.COM

beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436

tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.

May 3rd - Oct 31st

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 129

THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 15: CONNECTING THE DOTS

The final stretch. Riding his dear bike, Nemo, Matt is nearing Kathmandu

DAY 265 Dystopian Future?

Eight years since my last visit, Nepal and — surprise; there is no petrol in the entire country. No petrol at all, courtesy of India, corruption and petty politics. And I’m told that people in the capital city form lines stretching for several districts waiting overnight to get rations of gas at prices reaching US$10/litre.

And everyone’s guarding the little gas they have like gold. All around, gas stations are shuttered, trucks left to sit idle in the middle of highways. A mere few regional buses which still run charge an average monthly wage-worth for a short ride, and it’s a general nationwide domino effect one could imagine when essential resources run out.

130 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

With what remains in my tank, I push on to Bardia National Park. Met two guys along the way. Friendly young locals offering to host me for a night… or are they? Can’t put my finger on it but with each minute their demeanour turns more erratic, more violent, and something’s very off about them.

And I don’t know why, against myself, I agree to follow them to their place. Pitch black darkness, no point of reference, was supposed to be a 10-minute ride and now I’ve been behind them on the road for an hour, pretty sure we’re headed in the wrong direction. Every alarm and a thousand little voices are all screaming in my head as they make suspicious attempts to avoid army checkpoints. Nope, that’s enough.

I lag behind and discreetly turn off into

the forest. Quietly set up my tent in the dark. Pretty sure they’ll turn around and look for me. I feel bad. But did I just barely avoid a dangerous ordeal?

DAY 269 Tiger Safari Beautiful jungle at dawn. Streaks of sun fall through the trees diffused by morning fog. Three-metre-tall grasses. And leeches everywhere.

I keep falling behind, part intentionally, wanting to take it in without the American couple in army gear snapping pictures around me. No animals today. Too hot.

The Americans are not happy but my mind is thrilled and elsewhere entirely, mentally writing a story about a world where nature’s taken over once mankind

has depleted its resources and nearly driven itself to extinction.

DAY 273 Lumbini No flat tyre for 20,000+ km. Now I get to Nepal and I catch five flats within one week. I’m 10km from Lumbini, the historic birthplace of the Buddha when I fly off the road desperately trying to avoid running into a pack of black cows, completely invisible in the darkness.

DAY 275 Holy Cow! Cows everywhere. There’s a cow in my guesthouse. Inside. Garlands, flowers, dyes all around it. Surely it took a shit in the walkway. And they’re all praying to it,

blessing their children with it. “Cow signifies wealth! It gives us milk, cheese, curd,” I’m told. But there are seven other cows sniffing through garbage and blocking traffic right outside, right now and no one seems to pray to those.

DAY 277 Gasoline 20 litres of petrol smuggled from India. I can keep moving.

DAY 278 Deepavali Deepavali, the Nepali version of Diwali!

Small town of Tansen. Coloured powders around. Kids walking the alleys with cardboard altars, much like western carollers, only moving on once paid off.

DAY 286 Suburbs of Kathmandu After 286 epic days, I’ve almost connected Hanoi to Kathmandu on the map. Wild.

No celebrations yet though, not until I reach Kathmandu’s Durbar Square. And it’ll be 10 more days before I do, as I join a silent meditation course first. It’s meant to clear my mind, I guess, yet instead feels like a very boring, hard-core religious cult version of the Big Brother reality show, and I mostly spend my next 10 days plotting an escape plan and wondering how I got myself into this in the first place.

For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 131

Hanoi

Day Tripper: Hanoi / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats A / Top Eats B / Medical Buff Photo by Julie Vola

132 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Hanoi Essentials

ALTERNATIVE HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER

gkaren@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com

Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available.

HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE

issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth

A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi.

Only available online, but a great information source.

M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM (BBGV) 193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 6674 0945

HANOI OIS

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

NETBALL CLUB

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX

The chamber of commerce for all things relating to the UK and British-born expats living in the capital. Puts on monthly networking events, gala dinners, fundraising events and much more.

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

bbgv.org

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

ccifv.org

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228

eurochamvn.org

ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

icham.org

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh

sbav-hanoi.org

M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA

23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.

TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE

M M M

LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP

VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151

CLUBS & SOCIETIES

XUNHASABA

AMERICAN CLUB

ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

EVENT SPACE

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790

amchamhanoi.com

AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994

auschamvn.org

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850 GOETHE INSTITUT GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251

goethe.de/hanoi

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP

hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115

thehanoiclub.com

hanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164

vphanoi-lespace.com

M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

SKATESHOP

THREE TREES

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

JEWELLERY

booskateshop.com

CHULA 43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho; 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 258960

chulafashion.com

The work of Spanish couple Laura and Diego, this homegrown Hanoi brand describes themselves as creating wearable art. Designing pieces that are trendy, elegant, Western and yet distinctly Asian, their shop and arts space focuses on lifestyle, with regular events and more.

CONTRABAND

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

AIR ASIA airasia.com

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

M M M

AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088

hanoicookingcentre.com

Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

AIRLINES

HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE

147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045

hiddenhanoi.com.vn

A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE

CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.

Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS

8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

L’ATELIER WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES

33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758

ateliervietnam.com

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831

Mekong-quilts.org

Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in

SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

Hanoi Essentials

several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

Tel: (04) 3928 5190

artvietnamgallery.com

Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789

Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks.

Daloc.vn

DON’S TAY HO

MANZI

BICYCLE RENTALS

GALLERY & BAR / CAFE

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

Stocks organic vegetables from Sapa, Soc Son and Dalat; seafood from Hai Phong and Quang Ninh; Norwegian salmon and highlands pork and beef. Also offers foreign spices and convenience store products from Japan and Thailand. Free delivery for any purchase above VND400,000.

CYCLING

Dons-bistro.com

facebook.com/manzihanoi

LINHMART 116, D4 Dormitory, Giang Vo, Ba Dinh (near Ha Noi Hotel) Tel: 0936 491136 or 0916 504548

linhmart.com

BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS

Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam.

The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices.

70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941

NHA SAN COLLECTIVE

KITCHEN ART

GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS

KITCHENWARE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316

38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770

GREEN BIKE CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST

15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES

34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES

29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156

thbc.vn

DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC

nhasanstudio.org

The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment.

Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.

DENTAL CLINIC

VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM

3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434

NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM

australiandentalclinic.com PEACE DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286

peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho

serenitydentalclinic.com

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555

westcoastinternational.com

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

GALLERIES ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,

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Hanoigourmet.com

kitchenart.vn L'S PLACE

A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

GROCERIES / DELI

First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

LAN SALON Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC)

acc.vn/en

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems.

BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

NATURALLY VIETNAM

HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130

THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE

17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854 VEGGIE’S GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701

warehouse-asia.com

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DA LOC

DINH HAIR SALON

WINE RETAILER

HAIR SALON

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER

The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500

INDOCHINA PLAZA

241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596

LOTTE CENTER

54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016

lottecenter.com.vn PARKSON

bumrungrad.vn

Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666

JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH)

229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400

136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717

RED APRON 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

SHOPPING MALLS

TOP-END SALON

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

M M M ANNAM GOURMET

48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907

GROCERY SHOP

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

workroomfour.com

WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER

44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (4) 3265 6888

WINE RETAILER

DENTAL CLINIC

JUST.IN.M

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009

Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts.

WORK ROOM FOUR

162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366

CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS

naturallyvietnam.com

vnfam.vn

UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON

DELI / WINE SHOP

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131

SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888

HANOI GOURMET

HAIR STREAM

parkson.com.vn PICO MALL

INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL 32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3715 3666

jieh.vn

JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards, the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany), and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss - Germany) for refractive surgery. Top-end customer service and a friendly, contemporary environment add to the mix.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748

vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are

SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999

VINCOM ROYAL CITY

72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550

used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100

hfh.com.vn

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL

55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880

hongngochospital.vn

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666

Internationalsos.com

Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL

12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231 VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556

vinmec.com

M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370

insuranceinasia.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111

libertyinsurance.com.vn

REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488

M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435

bishanoi.com

A selective, independent, co-educational day school.

Provides a British-style education following the

National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards.

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878

concordiahanoi.org

A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system.

All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140

hisvietnam.com

With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students.

for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2, Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818

ANH DUNG

HANOI RENTING

MOTORBIKE RENTALS

RENTALS

37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096

No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828

Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers.

PHUNG MOTORBIKE

kinderworld.net/sis

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551

unishanoi.org

Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims

MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS

MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS

106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464 MOTORBIKE RENTALS

13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105 VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS

17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.

PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS

6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3718 6332

fair-realestate.com GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS

R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589

gialonghousing.com

hanoirenting.com

LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS

38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999

houseinhanoi.com

VIETLONG HOUSING RENTALS

21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203

vietlonghousing.com

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511

vn.alliedpickfords.com

The largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves,

isvietnam.org

A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209

kinderworld.net

Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418

hanoi.qsi.org

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 135

DAY TRIPPER: HANOI HO QUAN SON

Southwest of Hanoi is a place that is a land version of Halong Bay. Billy Gray heads out of town for some well-needed respite

136 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

L

ocated about 50km from Hanoi, Ho Quan Son, or as some call it, “the inland Halong Bay” is a tranquil retreat from the city’s madness.

Centred on a still and unpolluted lake are jagged mountains and rolling hills covered with green vegetation, and only interrupted by occasional family dwellings peering out of the forest.

We started our journey at 9am and arrived around 10.30, ready to get exploring. Entrance to the lake and its vast surroundings is VND15,000 plus VND5,000 for parking. We parked up our bikes and headed over a narrow footbridge taking us to a dirt track between small houses and toward the lake.

Still in Hanoi Among the trees we came across a large, colonial-looking stone house overlooking the water, and further down the path a wide open grass plain, perfect for setting up a picnic.

PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS

The setting by the lake is so quiet you could hear a pin drop, and the still water reflects the sun and the surrounding hills, providing the perfect backdrop for a peaceful day trip — and all of this is technically still part of Hanoi.

With the sun high in the sky and a cool breeze hovering over the lake, we laid out a blanket and ate some home-prepared lunch before taking off back into the village for a cold glass of sugarcane juice.

Following the road around the hills we found an old village with pre-colonial style architecture — narrow streets between grey stone walls, buildings come to life with multi-coloured flags hanging from ropes and an imposing church with a Vatican flag raised upon its steeple.

Conical Hats Always holding surprises, the villages around Ho Quan Lake are certainly worth some time exploring.

We set off after a well-needed, relaxing

day in the fresh air and set our sights on one last stop before the sun was swallowed up by the horizon.

Chuong Village is famous for its production of conical hats worn by many people in Vietnam and often bought by tourists as souvenirs. We decided we would explore the village, which is about half way between Ho Quan Son and Hanoi.

The village was busy, its main street bustling with shop fronts on either side. It seems there was a lot going on there, but unfortunately, with daylight running low, we were unable to find the conical hat makers and had to turn our wheels back towards Hanoi.

Getting There To get to Ho Quan Son just follow the AH13 southwest of Hanoi. In Ha Dong take the left-hand fork onto Highway 21B, a branch of the Ho Chi Minh Highway. Head south and follow the road for about 30km.

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 137

THE ALCHEMIST THE ALCHEMY OF RESPONSIBILITY

A

recent environmental disaster, which resulted in a massive fish kill-off on the central coast of Vietnam, had many people rallying in the streets demanding protection of the environment.

Shortly after this incident, pictures circulated on social media showing beaches littered with trash from weekend holidaymakers. The irony is stark and it highlights a disconnect with regard to social responsibility.

Corporations certainly need to use the safety of people, animals and the earth as a guidepost to conducting business, however, individuals also have a responsibility to protect one another and the environment.

Gandhi’s words: “Be the change you wish to see in the world,” could not be more relevant.

Singular Impact If every individual took responsibility

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and ownership for their actions and lived in harmony with one another and the environment, we would not have corporations polluting the planet and endangering the lives of those who live upon it. Individuals cannot be exempt from being socially responsible while they hold corporations to a higher standard. Every single person has a role to play in protecting one another and the environment. We must not minimize the level of impact one person can have on the grand scale.

“The common man just wants to live in peace and justice in a clean environment,” Hollywood actor Woody Harrelson once said.

Harrelson advises that it is each individual’s responsibility to step into their power and make wise decisions that inform companies and governments of their desire for a safer, cleaner world. In so doing, individual consciousness merges with the collective consciousness to create positive change.

BY KAREN GAY

Every Individual Along with their quest to gain insights into the true nature of reality, Buddhists also aim to eradicate greed, hatred and delusion. They strive to be morally upright in their activities and not act in ways that would be corrupt or bring harm to oneself or to others. Cultures all around the world have similar teachings; from them we learn that each individual has the responsibility to ethically conduct their lives; if they have challenges, the community is there to provide support.

As the environmentalist Jane Goodall once said, “Every individual matters.

Every individual has a role to play. Every individual makes a difference,”.

Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

Hanoi

office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Essentials

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762

agsfourwinds.com

A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.

MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281

elitefitness.com.vn

The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay.

This place is top of the range.

N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495

nshapefitness.vn SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805

STUDIO FIVE

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

VIETCLIMB

santaferelo.com

YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515

studio5.vn

with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

vietclimb.vn

Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym

SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

bosua.vn

HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757

hanoisport.vn

ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉ YOGA & NUTRITION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel: 0904 356 561

zenithyogavietnam.com

The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast variety of classes and levels in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa, Ashtanga and Pilates while also offering Restorative, Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga, Meditation sessions, and Kundalini classes. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, clothes and yoga props, as well as a café serving up the homemade vegetarian meals, cakes and coffee.

MMM SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT

CLIMBING CENTRE

40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185

BOO SKATESHOP

SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS

19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6273 3095

13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305

umove.com.vn

SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem

bigc.vn CITIMART Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617

PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS

metro.com.vn

THE THERAPIST RAPE

Dear Douglas, I am writing you about a friend I am concerned about. Approximately one to two years ago she was in a relationship with a guy she claimed to have really loved. From what she has shared with me, one day she was forced to have unwanted sex with him after a date, she unwillingly gave in fearing she would lose him. Sexual intercourse continued to happen in the following few months before the break-up and from her words she did not enjoy it at all, saying it hurts and only wanted it to be over as soon as possible, but put up with it for the sake of keeping him with her.

She is aware that it was rape after the eventual break-up, but she seems to blame herself for not liking sex. After the break-up she “tested” herself by sleeping with a guy she does not like, a friends-with-benefit relationship, that lasted about a week or two, concluding that she just does not like sex and feels no pleasure from sex.

Fast forward until now, it seems that she is constantly thinking of said boyfriend, blaming herself for being easy, not liking sex, feeling the guilt of losing her “purity” (she used to believe in keeping her virginity till marriage), feeling dirty, with occasional loneliness and that her best friends (not I) would not understand, would judge her.

All of these are what I can extract as I am the only one she shares this story with and usually she seems cheery, normal, energetic

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and seems to be doing okay with her life. It’s only occasionally that she thinks and talks about these events (weekly, sometimes twice a week).

Do you think these are symptoms of Rape Trauma Syndrome? If so, is there a way for me, as her guy friend, to help her?

I do not think she is aware of her situation, and would be in denial if I were to mention seeking professional help. Like I said they are not very visible as she is normally an energetic person.

— Concerned Friend Dear Concerned Friend, I thank you for writing about a topic that is sadly familiar. You are correct in seeing that her experience was rape and that she is now adjusting her life as a result. She is fortunate to have you as a caring friend and confidante, but you cannot really be all the support she needs in order to deal with what happened to her and how she is coping. It is not uncommon for someone who has been raped to blame themselves or to behave as if nothing happened, creating a divide between their outer personality and the hidden pain of the experience.

She is coping, which is a good thing, but it is not meant to be a permanent way to deal with the difficulties of life and ultimately she will need to process what has happened.

While rape is a violation of one’s sexual autonomy, it is more about power

BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA

than about sex. A person feels the loss of control over a part of them that is at the essence of who they are. It is not unusual for a rape victim to feel confusion about sexuality, to feel a loss of self-esteem or self worth, to feel shame or guilt, and for it to affect their ability to trust and therefore establish healthy relationships.

All of these things can be understood and healed over a period of time with therapeutic support.

You feel your friend is not ready to address this with a professional, and you are right to understand that there is readiness involved. Gentle encouragement is a better approach than pushing or anything forceful. You might share with her some reading material (The Courage to Heal, by Laura Davis, is a famous book) and continue to let her know that you are concerned, and thankful that she has been willing to trust this with you. Your role is sensitive, holding the secret without judgment and helping her to realise that it is okay to face it more directly with professional help.

I wish you and her… the wellness that comes from caring, the healing that comes from facing the truth and moving through that which is difficult.

— Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

Hanoi On the Town

BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem

facebook.com/bar84hanoi

Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

EDEN HANOI

MADAKE

SIDEWALK HANOI

THE UNICORN BAR

OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE

BAR & EVENT SPACE

DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE

COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE

End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho

facebook.com/edengargen

When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list.

ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE

88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029

88group.vn

A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar.

FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211

linkhanoi.com

A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI

15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix.

BARBETTA ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat.

CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970

cama-atk.com

With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170

facebook.com/hrc.hanoi

Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY

1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088 LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT

284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993

facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi

Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen, especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665

facebook.com/madakehanoi

With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge.

This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers.

PHUC TAN LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places.

POLITE PUB LONG BAR

5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho

facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly.

ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR

61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087

facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi

Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.

199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi

A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty.

SPY BAR HOLE IN THE WALL

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for.

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB

Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333

facebook.com/Nest.

Lounge.09XuanDieu

The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats.

It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas.

The views here are pretty eye-catching, too.

THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116

republic.vn

A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE

19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901

therooftop.vn

The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience.

2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front.

Now, as for the cocktails…

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL

114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6675 9838

tracyspub.com

A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi.

VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922

vuvuzela.com.vn

When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance.

For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.

CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers.

CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE

2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch.

They also do coffee.

COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240

coffeebean.com

This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 141

BAR STOOL LA PLUME

J

ust a stone’s throw from the Opera House, the recently opened La Plume is awash with urban elegance. Sat on the third floor of the Press Club Building, it feels a bit strange to look out of the window and see the red and green roofs of Hanoi staring back. Don’t worry, you haven’t been somehow transported into a bygone era, though the soft jazz piano and the red wine in your hand might make you feel like it.

At the bar, two Western businessmen sip pho cocktails. Four smartly-dressed Vietnamese women have tea at a table next to us. When a fifth woman in sunglasses and pearls appears, my companion leans over and whispers excitedly: “She’s a very

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famous Vietnamese singer!” And just like that, I’d made my first celebrity sighting at La Plume.

It’s the kind of place where you can clink glasses with diplomats, CEOs, and celebrities. Food and Beverage Director Dang Thanh Tung even had the pleasure of serving Samuel L. Jackson during his recent visit to film in Vietnam.

Since its inauguration in 1997, this building opposite the Sofitel Metropole has been a meeting place for movers and shakers. But it has a more recent legacy among expats in Hanoi who remember their regular Friday night parties on the terrace.

Our photographer, Julie, had a flashback, sitting in the newly remodelled bar space.

“The parties here were wild,” Julie

remembers. Before renovation began in May last year, it was just an outside terrace where the over-30 expat crowd would gather every month to dance the night away.

Industrialised But like the people who frequent it, the bar has matured, too. The infamous roof terrace has evolved into a sophisticated lounge, with rugged, industrial touches. The interior was inspired by Long Bien Bridge, depicted in two huge murals on the back wall.

Custom-made furniture in soothing browns and greens surround a large circular bar, which dominates the space. There are little touches, too; all the tables have been subtly engraved with quotes in various languages by journalists and writers, a nod

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

to the Press Club’s history as a meeting place for media professionals.

The cocktail menu was designed mostly by mixologist Pham Tien Tiep. His drinks don’t just taste good; they’re inspired by stories from Vietnam’s culture and history.

He’s best known for his famous pho cocktail, which he invented next door at Angelina, the bar in the Metropole, where Joan Baez sang to guests in a bunker during the Christmas raid of 1972. The warmth of her voice is represented by spices like cinnamon and chilli, and the cocktail’s fiery flare recalls the intensity of the bombs.

We tried three more of La Plume’s colourful creations. The Com cocktail, created by Ba Ly, is a striking bright green, with a rice stalk garnish. Rum and Cointreau

create a boozy base for honey, green apple, and a somewhat earthy young rice syrup, while tart orange balances the drink with citrus notes.

Kick Off Red Shoes is a drink for gin lovers who prefer the sweetness of fruits like apricot and raspberry, with a kick in the form of candied ginger. But perhaps my favourite of the three was the Home cocktail, vodkabased with black tea and starfruit creating a quintessentially Vietnamese flavour palette.

The bar also offers bistro-style lunch and dinner, and a well-rounded menu of small plates and bar snacks, like smoked salmon sliders, goat cheese crostini, and grilled Japanese scallops.

My advice is to get started early on the cocktails; happy hour will get you two-forones from 6pm to 8pm. As the sun sinks, the evening at La Plume gets into full swing.

Wednesday night is reserved for jazz. An acoustic band sets up in the corner every Friday night at 8.30 to entertain the afterwork crowd, and gives way to tropical house and trance at the weekend.

So grab your nearest friend, don your swankiest outfit, and head to La Plume for a cigar and a bottle of wine. If you’re lucky, maybe you’ll meet a celebrity or two. — Jesse Meadows La Plume can be found at 12 Ly Dao Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi at the corner of 59A Ly Thai To. For more information about their events and promotions, visit facebook.com/laplumebarlounge

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COFFEE CUP LISSOM PARLOUR

O

ne step inside the Lissom Parlour, I am transported to a world of tranquillity, leaving behind the non-stop commotion of the coffee street of Nguyen Huu Huan. A closer look reveals not a typical coffee shop, but more like the living room I’d love to own, had I been endowed with such good taste.

A ‘room for the reception and entertainment of visitors’ is exactly what Tran Linh had in mind when she opened and named her café the Lissom Parlour, where her interior design studies in Australia are put to good use in creating the elegant interior of the parlour and its beautifully crafted cakes. Employing dark tones for its wall and furniture together

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with soft lighting, the Lissom Parlour goes against the trend of ubiquitous design coffee houses in town, hoping its classy and quiet vibe will appeal to a more mature and sophisticated clientele.

Coffee and a Slice Originally planned to be a ‘bespoke cake studio’, the Lissom Parlour’s cakes live up to its aspirations. While some cakes are only made to order due to their finicky nature, there are plenty to choose from the regular menu, from Black Forest gateau and coconut cake to tiramisu and New York cheesecake. One of the most ordered cakes, also my favourite, is the sublime espresso roll cake (VND65,000 / slice). Its

perfect texture is not something you can only find here, but the generous topping of caramelised almonds that perfectly balances the creamy mocha frosting is a clear example of Linh’s refined taste and the meticulous efforts that set the Lissom Parlour apart from its peers.

Like most cafés in town, the Lissom Parlour offers both Vietnamese and Italian-style coffee. VND65,000 for a black coffee (ca phe den) or VND80,000 for a cappuccino is definitely much more than what you typically pay for your caffeine fix in Hanoi, reflecting the higher end the shop positions itself in. As a tea person, I am fascinated by the extensive selection of tea from Jasmine Gold to Vanilla Rooibos

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

from the renowned German luxury brand Ronnefeldt that is also supplied to international hotels, including Burj Al Arab in Dubai. I ordered my usual cup of Earl Grey (VND75,000) and was presented with a small tray of a tea cup, a small pot of orange and honey jam to go with the bergamot-flavoured tea, and a cute mini cupcake on the house.

Something For Everyone There are multiple seating options to suit different needs; high tables for computer users, round coffee tables naturally lit with a skylight for a good read during the day, and a raised area at the back where you can relax on a comfy sofa and cushions

or catch up with friends. The whole café is strictly non-smoking (except for a few seats outdoors) and thus scores even more points with people suffering, like me, from allergies to cigarette smoke.

To beat the summer heat, the Lissom Parlour has created an additional summer drinks menu (VND80,000). My favourite is Cocoberry which, as its name suggests, is an exquisitely presented and equally tasty concoction of coconut juice and the mulberry fruits that are only in season for three to four weeks in April. When I expressed my impatience to wait until next year, Linh assured me that she has preserved enough mulberries to quench our thirst all summer.

Everything at the Lissom Parlour exudes class and elegance. Its free pandan tea is unquestionably way tastier than the plain water or lacklustre iced tea served up in most cafés. Its presentable and wellmannered staff speak volumes about the high standards it holds itself to.

Every trip to the Lissom Parlour is an occasion for me to slow down and savour the finer things in life. The whole experience will set you back two to three times more than your average coffee expenses. But there is nothing average about this gem in the café scene of Hanoi. And it’s worth every dong.

— Tran Cam Thu Lissom Parlour is at 68 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

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Hanoi On the Town

and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi.

CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

congcaphe.com

With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town.

D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE

89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior.

Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy.

DUY TRI

Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

and pan-Asian mains.

With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam.

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE

highlandscoffee.com.vn

JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY

22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071

joma.biz

Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt.

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night.

SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR

VIETNAMESE CAFÉ

43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.

PUKU

MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music.

Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

MAISON DE TET DÉCOR

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

LIFESTYLE CAFE

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub

facebook.com/manzihanoi

COURTYARD CAFE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea.

HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE

2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi.

Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN

5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;

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36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722 On-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occasional farmers’ markets.

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117

A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café.

The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.

MOC CAFE

YOLO

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL

FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE

14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

(04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western

32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh

facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops

Boasting an abundance of communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly

quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout.

Open 24 hours.

ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com

A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.

EAT AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155

alfrescogroup.com AMATO

TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE

1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01227 367470 Located next to Binh Minh Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion tapas bar by night and a French restaurant during the day. Tiny, hip and yet surprisingly spacious, Amato offers an international dining and drinking experience in the heart of Hanoi.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224

aulacdobrazil.com

A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price.

They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.

ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT

288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945

asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD

129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s.

Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment.

CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER

4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6292 1044

chopsvietnam.com

Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint, and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served up with locally brewed craft beer, and this one’s a bit of a winner.

COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098

facebook.com/cousins.hanoi

A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere.

Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula.

DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN

18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831

daluva.com

A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991

elgaucho.com.vn

With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service.

There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of.

FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN

59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959

foodshop45.com

Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

FRENCH GRILL

up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC

5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam.

Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal!

INDIA PALACE

facebook.com/frenchgrill

With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286

greentangerinehanoi.com

A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving

An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list.

JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325

alfrescosgroup.com

Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World.

NORTH INDIAN

10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668

indiapalacehn@vnn.vn

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse.

Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

TOP-END GRILL

JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

alfrescogroup.com

J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL

G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388

KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337

koto.com.au

The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too.

Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y

labadiane-hanoi.com

On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal.

Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.

namese-French fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris.

LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN

LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO

44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

thbc.vn

Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays.

36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968

linguinifini.com/en/hanoi

With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam.

Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas.

LUNA D’AUTUNNO

LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509

MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN

23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven.

MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

CLASSIC ITALIAN

LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN

5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950

lasalsa-hanoi.com

A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338

lunadautunno.vn

This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.

Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list.

JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery.

Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors.

dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317

PAN-CHINESE

Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Viet-

fortuna.vn

verticale-hanoi.com

MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH

11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207

cafe-des-arts.com

A contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys.

Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini.

Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board.

Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

MOOSE AND ROO

Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus,

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

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TOP EATS LA TABLE DU CHEF

A

new eatery has opened in the Press Club Building featuring a menu by two-star Michelin chef Alain Dutournier. With over 40 years of experience in the French culinary world, Chef Dutournier has branched out of France for the first time with La Table Du Chef, looking to bring his brand of haute French cuisine to Hanoi.

The concept honours artistic minds who express themselves with their handiwork.

“We want to reveal the value of the human hand,” says F&B director Dang Thanh Tung. La Table Du Chef’s vision of the hand as a “printer for the creative mind”

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is evident in the restaurant’s attention to personal touches.

The city’s upper crust have been hosted in the various F&B outlets in this central location for almost two decades, from its beginnings as a meeting point for journalists to exchange news and relax after long days of correspondence. Small details dotted about La Table Du Chef pay homage to this history, with plates adorned by typography, tables engraved with quotes by writers of old, and Hermes wallpaper that evokes the feeling of an old study.

Other subtle details are embedded into the interior, giving guests the opportunity to

look closer and hunt for traces left by the human hand.

Curators Luscious wood glints in the French colonial building’s soft light. A tasteful collection of contemporary Vietnamese paintings adorns the walls. Together they make the decor’s warm tones comforting and sexy all at once, setting the scene for a fancy business lunch or a romantic date. The 70-seat continental restaurant is also fitted with two private rooms to host special dinners.

Though prices here are top end, La Table Du Chef has recently rolled out an affordable

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

option in the form of their new Temptation menu, a set meal of starter, main and dessert at VND520,000++. Combined with a wine cellar that boasts over 450 varieties of red and white, you’ve got a recipe for class.

We started with the smoked salmon, stuffed with a light, crunchy egg salad, topped with delicate fish roe and a side of bright yellow and green lemon bubbles that lend a tartness to the rich salmon dish. These bubbles are created by mixing lemon with flour, and dropping the concoction into cold water, where they consolidate into soft little spheres of flavour. A small green salad topped with edible purple pansies adds a dainty touch.

A la Rossini For the main, we had the beef tenderloin, served in a Rossini style, named in honour of the famous Italian composer. The juicy cut of meat is nestled between a buttery slice of pan-fried foie gras from Landes, garnished with slices of black truffle from Perigord, and a celery confit topped with broccoli semolina. A decadent truffle coulis ties the dish together.

Rounding out the meal, we finished with a light dessert that was nothing short of a work of art. White chocolate parfait forms the base for layers of crispy sweet wafer and fresh Dalat strawberries, carefully placed

in a manner that can only be described as statuesque. A sweet red emulsion is drizzled artfully across the plate. The top of this confection tower holds a fragile dome of glass-like bubbles to complete the aesthetics of the dish. It the kind of beautiful dessert that almost makes you feel bad to sink a spoon into.

Open daily for lunch and dinner, La Table Du Chef is a place to treat yourself. — Jesse Meadows La Table Du Chef can be found on the third floor of the Press Club building, 12 Ly Dao Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at facebook. com/latableduchefrestaurant

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TOP EATS CUTISUN

O

wner and executive chef Hoang Nguyen opened Cutisun just over three years ago. Since that time, it has expanded from a modest single-room diner to having five dining rooms spread across two restaurants opposite to each other. The name, incidentally, comes from Hoang’s childhood moniker — cu ti sun refers to a small boy whose teeth have gone black from too much candy.

“I love France, and French food,” explains Hoang, describing how his joy for cooking translated into lovingly prepared meals for his friends and family even while

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he was still working as a journalist.

“The French style of cooking steak is better,” he says. “But in Vietnam, it’s not so easy… Vietnamese people are scared of thick steaks of undercooked meat.”

It’s this appreciation for French cuisine and understanding of Vietnamese tastes that creates Cutisun’s signature fusion. The décor, for example, is intended to combine French style with that of a traditional Vietnamese house. “So many houses in Vietnam were built by the French,” says Hoang. “But this is still Vietnam.”

This fusion is most evident in Cutisun’s greatest appeal; the value. By using local

ingredients and local chefs trained by Hoang himself, Cutisun is able to provide delicious meals for even the most thrifty of carnivores.

The Vietnamese-style beefsteak (VND70,000) comes with crispy fries, a small side salad, steak sauce of your choice and a warm bread roll. Add to that a glass of chilled house wine (VND28,000) and your entire meal has cost less than five dollars.

Saucy Fortunately, however, the devil’s in the details, and the details are delicious. Almost any part of the meal could be elevated to centrepiece status, so let’s start with the sauces.

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

“The pepper sauce is the best,” suggests Hoang as we consider our order, “because it’s the most French.”

I’ve also enjoyed the BBQ and creamy cheese sauces on previous visits, and feel they’re equally delectable. The rainbow of sauces continues with the various side salads (VND25,000). The slightly sour balsamic vinaigrette feels the most French, the decadently rich mulberry feels the naughtiest, while the sweet and bitter passion fruit sauce finds balance in the middle.

As our French photographer was glazed over in a trance-like state recalling the tastes of Marseilles, she nodded her

approval as Hoang informed us that Cutisun only serves homemade bread. It arrives at the table included with every order of meat, a soft warm roll that has the side effect of inducing a deep meditative nostalgia if inhaled too deeply.

The beef used in the Vietnamese beefsteak option is rump steak, and retains enough tenderness despite the noticeable lack of real steak knives. Only the leanest cuts of local meat are used to ensure the quality stays high while the price stays low.

The menu includes other options, although Hoang is keen to emphasise that they are exactly that.

“The beef is the best,” he says, “but we had to include other options after some customers complained about us only serving steak.”

BBQ pork ribs (VND75,000) and a lamb rack (VND150,000) are the best examples of those options, and you can even find spaghetti dishes of Bolognese (VND55,000) and carbonara (VND62,000) which are perfect for children or as indulgent side dishes. — Edward Dalton Cutisun is located at 120 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Bookings and delivery available on 0915 008448. Open daily from 10am to 9.30pm

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 151

MEDICAL BUFF NOT JUST A BROKEN HEART

BY DR MICHAEL SANTOS

A

student turned traveller turned up at the FMP clinic on Saturday night at 10.45pm with pains across the chest and an uncomfortable heartbeat; he’d spent the day with friends walking the streets of Hanoi looking at some of the old buildings and having great fun. He told the staff he’d had a few late nights with friends drinking the local beers and enjoying the new tasty food. He was having a really great time; but now he felt strange with pains and dizziness.

Welcome to Holiday Heart Syndrome You are on holiday, first time in Asia and there are always lots of reasons to celebrate and enjoy the holiday spirit.

Unfortunately, it is often a time in which many people end up going to the emergency department because of too much holiday in the heart. We often see patients presenting themselves with atrial fibrillation or a very rapid abnormal heart rhythm in the upper heart chambers associated with symptoms of palpitations, shortness of breath, chest pain, lightheadedness, stroke and heart failure.

Factors & Causes?

The honest answer is we don’t fully know.

Dehydration; change of temperature, new food, food additives, coffee, alcohol, MSG and tiredness are just the start of the contributing factors.

Several factors may contribute to Holiday Heart syndrome.

Over-Eating. Eating a large amount of food at one sitting causes the stomach and bowels to stretch and distend to accommodate it. This activates the nervous system in our body called the vagal or parasympathetic nervous system we use to digest food, rest and sleep. This nervous system, when activated, typically slows the heart rate. However, in people susceptible to atrial fibrillation, small areas in the upper chambers of the heart are actually triggered and beat very fast, leading to the abnormal heart rhythm.

These areas often reside in the small veins that drain blood from the lungs into the left upper heart chamber.

Salt Consumption: Our bodies need salt, but when we consume a lot of salt our bodies can retain fluid and our blood pressure can rise. In people with a history of high blood pressure, heart valve problems, or heart failure, the increase in blood pressure and higher amount of

152 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

fluid in the body stretches the upper heart chambers, and atrial fibrillation develops.

MSG & Food Additives: Sensitivity to particular food additives can also give you reactions like hives or diarrhoea.

This doesn’t mean all foods containing additives need to be automatically treated with suspicion, as foods with naturally occurring chemicals can also cause issues. Many food additives occur naturally within foods people eat every day; for example, MSG is found naturally in Parmesan cheese, sardines and tomato. People with food allergies and intolerances are also often sensitive to chemicals found naturally in certain foods, such as nuts or shellfish.

Everyday foods that contain natural MSG or glutamate include: corn, green peas, grapes, grape juice, mushrooms, Parmesan, Roquefort, tomatoes and tomato juice.

How to stay safe?

If you have a history of heart symptoms,

go to the hospital early. Take everything in moderation and avoid excess. Try to minimize eating large quantities of food at once. Avoid adding salt to your diet and finally, if you know someone who is depressed, alone, or isolated during the holiday season, reach out and cheer them up, it may be the best thing you do for them.

But there are worse things to fear than food additives.

In Asia many people view food additives as a major food threat.

However, in terms of health risk, food additives come in at the end of the line, after food-borne microorganisms (like salmonella), inappropriate hygiene and eating habits, environmental contaminants and naturally occurring toxins.

Dr Michael Santos is a general practitioner at Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

Hanoi On the Town

changing imagery on the walls.

MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL

The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470

mooseandroo.com

There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides.

Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town.

NAMASTE HANOI

PANE E VINO

THE KAFE

PAN-ITALIAN

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

facebook.com/panevinoHN

thekafe.vn

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.

Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PIZZA 4P’S

namastehanoi.com

The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts.

NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India.

In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it.

NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801

nineteen11.com.vn

Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery.

The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier.

GOURMET VIETNAMESE

4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337

hanoixua.vn/en

Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout.

WANNAWAFFLE WAFFLES

VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK

20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO

67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA

1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) COM RANG DUA BO

pizza4ps.com

MIXED GLASS NOODLES

POTS ‘N PANS

Waffles, but not as you know it.

Here it’s about taking this humble dish and recreating it in a contemporary environment in as many ways as is humanly possible. Ever had a matcha waffle? What about a waffle stuffed with cream cheese and smoked salmon? How about a banoffee pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaffle serves up all these creations and much more.

WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718

PHO CUON HUNG BEN

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444 Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local ingredients.

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204

potsnpans.vn

Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355

sainthonore.com.vn

This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times.

THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ

OLD HANOI

Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

BIT TET NGON SO 5

27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem; 138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; Unit 108, Indochina Plaza, 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay

JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT

PAN-INDIAN

46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245

25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513

thecartfood.com

Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.

The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

facebook.com/wannawaffle

57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da MIEN TRON HANH 7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES

54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO

48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem

PHO CUON

26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN

247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com/zenith-cafe

A vegetarian and vegan café connected to Zenith Yoga that respects yoga philosophy. Simple living, mindful thinking and 100 percent natural ingredients, all the food here is served up without additional additives or MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. All dishes are made in house.

STREETFOOD

PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA

7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA

1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO

49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO

10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO

13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO

5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem

3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM

18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho

PHO TU LUN PHO BO

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem BANH CUON HANG GA BANH CUON

14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem

XOI HANG HOM STICKY RICE

44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem BANH DA TRON BANH DA TRON

6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho BANH MI 25 STREETSIDE BANH MI

154 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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Day Tripper: HCMC / Body and Temple / Bar Stool / Know Your City / Top Eats / Amazing Grapes / A World of Good Photo by Vu Ha Kim Vy 156 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

HCMC Essentials

BAKERIES

M M M BOOKSHOPS

ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ

223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1

phamngulao.abcbakery.co

Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available.

BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

breadtalkvietnam.com

A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting.

HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY

harvestbaking.net

With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details.

L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072

lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS

FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1

fahasa.com

Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts.

LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes.

A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

pnc.com.vn

Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese.

Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS

BAKERY & CAFE

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

touslesjoursbakery.com

The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam.

French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint.

Has over 25 locations in Vietnam.

VOELKER BAKERY

39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066

voelker-vietnam.com

French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

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merce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

amchamvietnam.com

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912

auschamvn.org

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430

bbgv.org

CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754

canchamvietnam.org

Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Com-

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922

nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045

pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046

sbghcm.org

M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565

lusinespace.com

Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA TAILOR-MADE SHOES

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394

anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm

This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET

174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826

Bamskateshop.com.vn BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING

1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084

ORANGE

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING

10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928

ginkgo-vietnam.com

Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701

ipa-nima.com

DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5.

Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

BUDGET CLOTHING

152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620

9am to 10pm PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING

232 Bui Vien, Q1

papaya-tshirt.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS

39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556

triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588

Ubesthouse.com VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

GINKGO

SHOPPING MALLS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364

ambrij.com

A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM, corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts from international brands like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix,

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Ungaro and more. Also do event management services.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734

overlandclub.jp

AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com

The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485

saigoncookingclass.com

Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349

vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE

268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946

atc-craft.com

AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023

austinhomeinteriors.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com

This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

CHI LAI

VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

HOME FURNISHINGS

175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543

chilai.com

This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach

and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

EM EM SOUVENIRS

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408

8am to 9.30pm

FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above.

MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-creations.org NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS

2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459

8am to 8pm

MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS

1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-quilts.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115

nhaxinh.com

REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190

remixdeco.com

THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788

thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

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DAY TRIPPER: HCMC THANH AN

Vu Ha Kim Vy goes in search of one of the city’s hidden islands — Thanh An

O

ver the past year, Thanh An has become a popular destination for those who like to di phuot — travel by motorbike. A small island in Can Gio around 70km away from the centre of Ho Chi Minh City, it has a population of around 5,000 and its economy is centred on fishing and salt production.

“No, don’t bring your bike with you,” said a young girl standing next to me waiting for the boat to the island. “Thanh An is so small. You can walk.”

Leaving my bike at one of the parking lots around the dock, I found myself a comfortable spot next to the window on the boat heading to the island.

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What it Has My first impression was that Thanh An looked poor and depressing; the sizzling hot and windless day helped increase that feeling. I was standing at the dock and wondering which direction to start off in.

I turned left following the long stone dyke with the ocean on one side and mangrove forest on the other. It was totally quiet until the sound of a ship’s horn broke the stillness.

One of the characteristics of the sea round Can Gio is that the water is muddy and suffused with fine silt. As there is no beach on this island for tourists to laze about on, fishing has become a popular tourist entertainment at weekends.

“You came here alone? [You] should go at weekends. It’s more fun,” said the café lady while making me a lemonade. With my tank top soaked in sweat, seated on a bench placed under the shade of a tree I looked around and tried to catch the vibe of this fishing village. A couple of kids walking home from school giggled and talked in loud voices, while a lady was checking her dried fish racks in the front yard. There were many more dried fish racks on the route heading to the heart of the island.

For Longer Trips Thanh An is more suited to a two-day than a one-day trip, as the last boat leaves

PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY

the island at 5pm. Other fun activities which require an overnight stay including visiting the salt farms on another nearby island, watching the sunset or fishing with the locals on their boats.

As the island focuses on agriculture and only got electricity a few months ago, it doesn’t have strong tourism services yet.

I saw only one guesthouse when I made a loop walking around the village.

“We don’t have hotels here but you can stay with us from VND20,000 to VND30,000 per night per person,” said the seafood lady when I was having lunch at her place. I ordered one crab and 300g of shrimps that cost only VND67,000.

Suddenly my energy returned and

forgetting the three litres of water I had just drunk to stave off the heat, I took my first bite of the boiled shrimps. They were tender, fresh and juicy. More than worth the visit. And if two days are still not enough for you, you can get on daily boats travelling from Thanh An to Vung Tau, which cost only VND20,000 and take around two hours.

Thanh An is definitely not a place for people who are looking for crystal clear sea, white pristine beaches and fancy hotels or resorts. However, it’s a decent choice for a trip to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city, and to eat fantastic seafood.

Information You can either go by bus or bike to Thanh An. By bus: from the bus station at Ben Thanh Market, get on the bus number 20 to Binh Khanh ferry, take a ferry to reach Can Gio. From Can Gio, take the bus number 90 to Tac Xuat dock, then take a boat to Thanh An By bike: From Nguyen Tat Thanh in District 4 head to Nguyen Tan Phat, keep going straight to Binh Khanh ferry. To reach Can Gio, you have to pay VND4,500 for a ferry trip. Follow Rung Sac Highway then turn left to Duyen Hai at the end. Keep heading to Can Thanh, turn left at Dang Van Kieu and you will see Tac Xuat dock at the end of the street.

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BODY

I

f you’ve read this column regularly you know that the mantra of “calories in versus calories out” is not the total picture when attempting to lose fat and shape up. Our bodies are in constant flux in the never-ending efforts to maintain homeostasis — the state of equilibrium and balance.

Nutrient deficiencies and hormone imbalances are quite often the underlying issue holding people back from losing, and then effortlessly maintaining, fat (weight) loss. Below are six supplements you might want to learn more about to help in your efforts to lose fat and shape up.

Carnitine The science is a little slim on L-carnitine, but some studies do prove that carnitine increases muscle mass, decreases fatigue levels and reduces fat mass, which are all key components of weight loss. Carnitine reportedly works by carrying fatty acids into cells so they can be burned for fuel.

Some studies have indicated that it is especially helpful in reducing visceral (belly) fat stores.

Magnesium Low magnesium levels can impede a person’s ability to use glucose for fuel.

Instead of the body burning the energy, it stores it as fat. Correcting a magnesium deficiency stimulates metabolism by increasing insulin sensitivity. High insulin sensitivity is very good; it means your body reacts quickly to rises in blood sugar levels, uses a smaller amount of insulin and returns to a balanced state quickly. Some

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AND

TEMPLE

SUPPLEMENTS FOR FAT LOSS

BY PHIL KELLY

studies have shown that magnesium may also inhibit fat absorption.

healthy nervous system, correction of the adrenal glands’ functioning and aid in the production of substances to regulate the nerves and hormones. Good digestion is another benefit of a Vitamin B complex.

It helps with proper digestion by aiding healthy production of hydrochloric acid (HCl); the acid breaks down carbohydrates, fats and proteins more efficiently.

For fat loss specifically, vitamins B5 & B3 are ones to watch. B5 lowers body weight by activating lipoprotein lipase, an enzyme that burns fat cells. One study linked B5 supplementation to less hunger when dieting. B3 (niacin) has been shown to increase adiponectin, a weight-loss hormone secreted by fat cells. Clinical trials have shown that niacin-bound chromium supplements help reduced body weight.

Vitamin D Experts from all over the world are verifying that a very high percentage of the population is deficient in vitamin D3 and that supplementation is essential.

Vitamin D3 is actually a pro-hormone and plays a huge part in a wide range of cellular functions. A deficiency in Vitamin D is strongly linked to poor metabolism of carbohydrates. Furthermore, the genes that are regulated by Vitamin D may change the way fat cells are formed, making it easier to store fat. According to experts, Vitamin D3 may be the single most important supplement we can take for our health

Zinc Zinc plays a primary role in anabolic hormone production. Ample zinc allows for more healthy release of the three most important anabolic hormones; testosterone, growth hormone and insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1). These hormones are some of the best fat-burning substances your body can produce.

Deficiency of zinc also reduces leptin, a beneficial hormone that regulates appetite.

Leptin signals the brain telling you when you’re full and satisfied. We find that people with low leptin levels or impaired leptin function tend to overeat and therefore put on fat.

B Vitamins B vitamins help with energy production, fight fatigue and lethargy, improve

Chromium Makes the body more sensitive to insulin, helping to reduce body fat and increase lean muscle.

Your diet should first and foremost focus on developing optimal cellular function. If your internal environment is out of balance your system will find it hard to build new lean tissue (muscle) and burn the excess fat stores. Nutrient deficiencies are common and really set you back, especially if you have increased your activity levels.

If this information interests you, get in touch with a professional to discuss testing and treatment, if necessary.

Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763, at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC Essentials

CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

firstBIKE.com.vn

FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM

384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3

jett-cycles.com

The showroom home of Jett Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam.

Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale.

SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114

xedapcaocap.com

Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides.

Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs.

ELITE DENTAL GROUP. 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 3737

info@elitedental.com.vn elitedental.com.vn

Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics.

Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405

thebikeshopvn.com

The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2.

Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories.

Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals.

Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.

M M M DENTAL CLINICS

199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399 STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6282 8822

starlightdental.net

Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800

accadent.com

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 Thao Dien Clinic, 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, Q.2, Tel: (08) 35 191 777

westcoastinternational.com

An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

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HCMC Essentials

MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS

Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100

maplehealthcare.net

Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.

M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431

cthomasgallery.com

Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. Now has a second newer gallery at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1

dogmacollection.com

The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate.

Sells prints of the originals and related products.

ists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630

Annam-gourmet.com

Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105

classicfinefoods.com

Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

galeriequynh.com

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441

baotangmythuattphcm.vn

Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions.

san-art.org

San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young art-

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GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.

HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671

avedaherbal@gmail.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926

catmocspa.com

Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625

MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565

meatworksasia.com

Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.

PHUONG HA GROCERS

SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059

VEGGY’S

GROCERIES & IMPORTER

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells

Conceptcoiffure.vn

SPORTS CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Adam Zakharoff

Email: adamzakharoff@ gmail.com ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038

SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090

samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010

suhard.amit@yahoo.com

manish@ambrij.com

Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827

glowsaigon.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7

SPORTS — GENERAL

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368

Saigonraiders.com

deepteshgill@gmail.com

Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

famenails.com

SAIGON RAIDERS

npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598

FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

astere@hotmail.fr

saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899

James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

Saigon-ultimate.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794

xrockclimbing.com

HAIR BAR CONTEMPORARY SALON

68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108

hairbar.vn

A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188

Indochine-spa.com.vn

Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737

Jasminespa.vn

Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

MERCI 17/6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8799

merci-space.com

A unique nail spa and bistro where you can pamper your nails, enjoy a massage, meet your friends, enjoy a meal and sip a cocktail. Provides only waterless nails treatments to avoid bacteria and dry skin as well as Zoya and Kure Bazaar non-toxic varnishes.

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails.

Cheap prices, too.

SOI SPA 6th & Rooftop, 44 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8678

soispa.vn

A lovely little place with nail services, shampoo head massages, and other simple treatments for a quick getaway experience. Also features a rooftop terrace and a great little drinks and wine selection. Open daily from 10am to 9pm.

SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575

spatropic.com

Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930

www.acc.vn

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery.

AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759

americaneyecentervn.com

American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366

cmi-vietnam.com

This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

34 Le Duan Street, Q1; 95 Thao Dien Q2, Tel: (08) 3822 7848

vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice (FMP) is the largest and one of the oldest foreign, privately-owned, international health care providers in Vietnam. As the only health

care provider that can offer a countrywide network of integrated clinics for foreign and local populations, FMP’s main specialties include family medicine, pediatrics and emergency medicine as well as health checks and work permit health-tests.

FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500

fvhospital.com

International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167

fvhospital.com

State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068

hanhphuchospital.com

Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

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HCMC Essentials

IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362

insuranceinasia.com SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 107B Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 01676 71 75 79

sianclinic.com

The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990

stamfordskin.com

Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE

187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545

victoriavn.com

Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998

libertyinsurance.com.vn

International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more.

NOAH JAMES INSURANCE AGENCY Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858

noahjamesinsurance.com Skype: jp.global

A full service broker offering expatriates and local Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for life, health, travel, as well as speciality cover for student travel, medevac, international marine, extreme athletics and adventure. For details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance.com TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367

ten-pac.com

A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

INSURANCE PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM 4th/12th Floor Continental Tower, 81-83-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908

pacificcross.com.vn

Pacific Cross Vietnam recently changed names, from Blue Cross Vietnam, to align with their regional sister companies. Together they form the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience providing health and travel insurance to people who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. Contact them now for a free quote.

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ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36

theabcis.com

Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools worldwide. ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA, the Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040

aisvietnam.com

The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335

bisvietnam.com

Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456

cis.edu.vn

The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490

dancentervn.com

Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780

helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700

Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691

Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679

paa.com.vn

Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722

saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360

Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846

vin-space.com

newly built campus.

Nobel Education Network.

The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901

ssis.edu.vn

Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

ishcmc.com

HCMC’s most established international school offers three International Baccalaureate programmes for students from two to 18 years old. ISHCMC will be launching a new secondary campus in 2017, featuring Vietnam’s first Innovation Center, a 350-seat professional theatre, NBA-sized basketball courts and a 25m competitive swimming pool.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY — AMERICAN ACADEMY 16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

aavn.edu.vn

ISHCMC — American Academy is a U.S. curriculum secondary school for students aged 11 to 18 years old. Early university credits, a 1:1 University Counseling Program, and an extensive EAL program set our graduates on the road to 100% acceptance rate at overseas universities and a US$1 million scholarship fund.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944

kidsclubsaigon.com

Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five.

Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257

eishcmc.com

The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99

issp.edu.vn

Vietnam’s only international school offering a U.S. curriculum for children aged 18 months to 11 years old.

With 100% English language immersion, a library containing over 13,500 English books and more than 60% of students achieving above grade level English, ISSP students are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or ISHCMC - American Academy.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639

montessori.edu.vn

Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122

renaissance.edu.vn

Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081

saigonkidskindergarten.com

SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827

saigonstarschool.edu.vn

Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236

smartkidsinfo.com

This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223

tas.edu.vn

Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694

easysaigon.com

The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.

Enquiries via their website are welcome.

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HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700

namhouse.com.vn

Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855

residentvietnam.com

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282

snap.com.vn

Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

THE NEST 216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 580800

thenesthousing.com

Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS

185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446

Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs.

Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.

M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430

adecco.com.vn

Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions.

Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888

hr2b.com

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.

vieclambank.com

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373

vietnamworks.com

The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many.

Also a good site for expat jobseekers.

RELOCATION AGENTS

chiscafe.com

Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions.

SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273

nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com

Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices.

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS

77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690

saigonscootercentre.com

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provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799

asiantigers-mobility.com

Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322

logicalmoves.net

Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network.

Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065

santaferelo.com

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

Email Vietnam@santaferelo. com for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888

intercontinental.com/saigonres

Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111

norfolkmansion.com.vn

Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

Riverside-apartments.com

Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment.

Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071

agsfourwinds.com

A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220

alliedpickfords.com

With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also

the-ascott.com

Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city.

Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

EXILE INK 608

57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956

exileinkvietnam.com

sherwoodresidence.com

Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922

somerset.com DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678

TATTOO ARTISTS

Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel.

They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

SPORTS & FITNESS CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620

SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311

saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090

tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339

xamnghethuat.vn TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838

tattoosaigon.com

laholista.com

Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383

xamphunnghethuat. com

THE LANDMARK CLUB GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com BODY AND MIND

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon.

For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425

cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521

lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567

galaxycine.vn

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326

cyril-and-you.com

This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day.

No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run

by Cyril himself.

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672

nutrifort.com

A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals.

SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonhash.com

Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km.

VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run.

In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM

Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612

facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn

A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).

VETERINARY CLINICS

SPORTS GARMENTS

City with international veterinary surgeons. Upholding international standards, the team works tirelessly to help clients with the support of a dedicated surgical suite, digital X-Ray and comprehensive diagnostic facilities.

SCORE-TECH

VIETNAMESE CLASSES

1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771

vietnameselanguagegarden. com

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168

vlstudies.com

Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

ANIMAL DOCTORS INTERNATIONAL 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2. (08) 6260 3980

animaldoctors.vn

Offers the very highest levels of compassionate, competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh

SHERATON FITNESS HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE HEALTH CLUB & GYM

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451

idecaf.gov.vn

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership.

CGV CINEMAS

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388

STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

cgv.vn

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 169

BAR STOOL QUI DINING LOUNGE

L

ocated in the Lancaster Building on Le Thanh Ton in the spot once inhabited by Sin Lounge and Cepage, Qui Dining Lounge looks like it has been around for longer than the short time it’s been open. It offers mood lighting and a mellow atmosphere that is equally good for lunch, the afternoon, after-work cocktails, or for an evening out on the town.

The dining lounge is much larger than it appears at first glance, with the seating going way back and wrapping around the bar. Decked out with art murals, dark leather, and soothing lighting, it is easy to see that Qui has begun to create an experience for its customers, offering refreshment and

170 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

atmosphere at almost any time of day.

The centrepiece of the space is undeniably the bar; well stocked, beautifully lit, and staffed with trained mixologists ready to serve up an assortment of cocktails. As a passionate fan of gin and tonic, my eyes lit up at the full page dedicated to variations of the G&T goodness. Tung Le, bar manager at Qui, recommended the Hendrick’s G&T (VND190,000), which is served with cucumber wedges, cracked black pepper, lime and rosewater. With 13 varieties of gin available, the bar offers to elevate the renowned gin and tonic beyond the basics.

Character Another recommendation was the

Saigon Colada (VND200,000), served in a pineapple-shaped goblet and decorated with flowers and herbs. Upon my first taste, I was greeted with a mouthful of refreshment, and closing my eyes I found myself transported to white sand beaches and the soft sounds of waves lapping up on the shore.

The Midnight Rose (VND 210,000) was a delicate drink served in an ornate tea cup with vodka infused with Earl Grey tea, yogurt syrup and mint liqueur, really giving this drink character. These flavours are enhanced by the fruit from the white peach purée and lemon juice.

“The space we have created is not just a bar, and we’re not trying to be a club; it’s a

PHOTOS BY SIÂN KAVANAGH & VU HA KIM VY

space you can come for a meal, a cocktail, or some late night relaxation,” says Mark Molnar, the innovation executive chef at Qui. “The menu is fusion, but it’s a natural fusion of flavours, not just forcing combinations for shock value.”

Tender The menu is a combination of delicious and healthy, with many dishes designed to be shared with a group; there are even raw food offerings. The cumin-spiced Mongolian wagyu beef (VND270,000) is deliciousness fried in a wok, and paleo-friendly. The wagyu flank steak is fantastically tender and cooked in a hoisin glaze with Hunanese spice-mix fried with

peppers, onions and coriander, creating a delicate blend of flavours.

The snack menu offers many plates of shared bites that are easy on the wallet and a joy for the stomach, starting with the chilifried edamame (VND60,000).

Chocolate cremeux (VND120,000) served at Qui may be one of my new favourite desserts. Cremeux, not to be confused with a chocolate mousse or ganash, is chocolate served folded atop passion fruit, mango, red chilli and vanilla coulis, with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and five-spice tuile. This decadent dish is a treat for the eyes and for the taste buds, with the salty flavours balancing out the rich chocolate and the sharpness of the coulis.

“We want to be known for our consistency of flavours and combinations — each of our meals should tell a story,” says Vu Duong, marketing director at Qui. He envisions a host of patrons in the lounge, from business associates to young urban professionals, and creative minds.

He adds: “We have music on, but we never want to overwhelm the conversations going on around you. As a lounge we want to create an atmosphere where you can talk and engage with whoever you’re with.” — Siân Kavanagh Qui Dining Lounge is located at 22-22 Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC, and is open from 11am to late. For more info, visit their website at quilounge.com or call (08) 3828 8828

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 171

HCMC On The Town

BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars.

Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

BROMA, NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail.

BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR

7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345

Buddhabarsaigon.com APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB

2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124

apocalypsesaigon.com

An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back.

BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR

90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588

biacraft.com

As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu.

BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB

95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD

40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452

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Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR

45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4202 A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene, Champion is located in the Backpackers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. Also has a pool table, darts, tasty Western and Vietnamese food, great cocktails and ice cold beer. Western managed, wonderful local staff. #BeAChampion.

out their daily food specials.

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE

EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR

Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience.

Night live music and DJs. GAME ON SPORTS BAR

115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898

gameonsaigon.com

A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.

HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605

hoavien.vn

The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer.

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon.

One of the top watering holes in the city.

ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR

24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports.

55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack?

A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check

lastcallsaigon.com

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE

LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.

Tel: 0906 912730

www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030

www.dominos.vn LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR

207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

MALT 46-48 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Malt is a non-smoking bar in downtown Saigon offering shuffleboard, darts, craft beers on tap, signature cocktails and delicious tapas and pub grub. Its unpretentious vibe and casual atmosphere will have you feeling at home.

EAT.VN www.eat.vn

HUNGRYPANDA. VN

www.hungrypanda.vn KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999

www.kfcvietnam. com.vn

LOTTERIA

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn

PIZZA HUT (PHD) MAY RESTAURANT & BAR

Tel: (08) 3838 8388

www.pizzahut.vn

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180

lahabana-saigon.com

Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel.

Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

D2 SPORTS BAR

59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122

GAMES & CRAFT BEER BAR

CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

LAST CALL

LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

mayrestaurant.com.vn

An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space.

NUMBER FIVE EXPAT BAR

44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music.

OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen

SCOOZI

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com

An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

O’BRIEN’S

Lai, Q1

saigonsoul.com

The ultimate in poolside entertainment, Saigon Soul is defined by its great party atmosphere. Booming house music, cold drinks and beautiful people. What better way to spend a Saturday? Runs every Saturday from late November until mid May.

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198

irish-barsaigon.com

This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

PEACHES CURRY PUB

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.

PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS

46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796

phattysbar.com

From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON OUTCAST

SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520

facebook.com/PitchersPMH

Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.

with BBQs available for parties and events.

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL

5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738

Stormp.vn

Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. A good place to watch the live sports.

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town.

Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198

Saigonoutcast.com

Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets.

SAIGON RANGER ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559

facebook.com/saigonranger

Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.

THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR

VINYL BAR

31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

facebook.com/thecubesaigon

THE OBSERVATORY BAR, ART & DJ SPACE

5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

THE ORIENT SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623

vinylbarsaigon.com

WINE BAR 38 CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827

wineembassy.com.vn

A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu

facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon

An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR

61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1 PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL

STORM P

shrinebarsaigon.com

Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings.

With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999

facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM

Designed as a Laneway-style restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

THEMED MUSIC BAR

RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR

S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks.

SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY POOL & DAY CLUB

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007

seventeensaloon.com.vn

Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix,

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 173

KNOW YOUR CITY THE ALLEYWAYS

T

he word alley is more than 600 years old, owing its origin to the Old French word alee, meaning ‘walking or passage,’ and its medieval equivalent aler, or ‘go’ (today aler is spelt aller). The alleyway network in Ho Chi Minh City was introduced as a practical way of delivering goods and people to buildings away from the main streets.

Alleyways have been a characteristic of city planning (a remainder of a medieval street network) since cities were first formed. But the rise of the automobile saw their use diminish and so they became neglected and often dangerous.

Alleyways were also the product of Public Health legislation in the 19th century that allowed for the efficient collection of waste. Before cities had sanitation, alleyways allowed these unattractive uses kept away from the “front doors” of the street.

After sewerage systems were installed and larger vehicles were introduced to make the collection of rubbish easier, the reason for laneways was removed, and they became deserted places, becoming breeding grounds for crime and vermin.

Now, cities around the world have rediscovered and embraced their alleyways and have made them into exciting places with restaurants, retail and outdoor art.

Community and Climate The New Urbanist movement adopted principles of fine-grain patterns in the city, with mixed uses as well as neo-traditional

174 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

design. Many of these “new” principles were already in place in Ho Chi Minh City.

Population pressures after the war meant that alleyways were the only way the city could meet the densities needed to sustain itself. Generations of Vietnamese were raised in these environments where there was — and still is — a constant awareness of neighbours.

When given a chance, many were happy to relocate to the high-rise apartments that now populate the city skyline. Yet the alleyways and close proximity also bred strong communities where knowing your neighbour also allowed you to help out in times of need, and reduced crime through local vigilance. The alleyway’s limited size made them easy to navigate on motorbike, and shops and small restaurants created on the ground floor served the needs of the local residents.

The alleyways offer not only community and connectedness but also climate modification, as their very narrowness provides protection from the sun. They give what is called a deep canyon effect. Despite the fact that Ho Chi Minh City has a humid climate where daytime and night-time temperature difference is not significant, nevertheless, direct sunlight is prevented from reaching the lower areas and wind movement across the top of the alleyway draws heat out thus making the alleyways up to 6 degrees cooler. This saving of energy is shared by the whole community.

BY ED HAYSOM

Identity and Interaction In our rush to modernise we need to be mindful of the good things the past has provided as well as the bad. When building our high-rises we need to be aware of the social benefits that close-knit communities can give.

We must give our communities clear and distinctive identities. This identity must be communicated through the urban plan, the design of the streets and the buildings, both community and private. By providing choices for people in housing types and strengthening the public areas we can give better outcomes to all that are part of our community.

We need to design communities attractively by encouraging interaction rather than ignoring it. Architects have a key role in creating these places of interaction by their unique training and creative approach.

If we just let things happen, we are merely passing on problems to the generation ahead instead of fixing them ourselves. While the simpler values of the older era still hold appeal, through skilled design and urban planning we can ensure our future communities can accommodate today’s values and lifestyle. Quality of life starts with quality of design.

Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City. You can contact him on ehaysom@modehaysomarchitects.com

HCMC On The Town

to complement the old and new world wines.

XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468

xusaigon.com

This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm.

BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003

sam.nguyen197@gmail.com

A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657

cafethoaivien.com

Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL

157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1

coffeebean.com.vn

the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair.

art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

I.D. CAFÉ

facebook.com/m2ccafe

CONTEMPORARY CAFE

34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910

Idcafe.net

Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

INTERNATIONAL

79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115

Decibel.vn

Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830

guanabanasmoothies.com

An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.

HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222

Hideawaycafe-saigon.com

Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard,

At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400

facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee

KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS DECIBEL

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495

CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING 40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6685 4160

klasik.coffee

Nitro cold brew coffee, single origin coffee and healthy food. Klasik Coffee Roasters is a small coffee shop with a passion for seeking high quality coffee beans from around the world to roast in Saigon. Holding the belief that each cup tells its own story, drinking coffee at Klasik is all about pleasure and experience: the aroma, the taste, the warmth and the senses inspired by each and every cup. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH

First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703

lusinespace.com

French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and

Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM

8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East.

THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330

themorningcafe.com.vn

Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the win-

dow and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272

facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe

Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE

158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205

facebook.com/thingscafe

Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ

Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution.

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TOP EATS MY CHICKEN RUN

T

he name threw me; I must be honest My Chicken Run is not a name to inspire culinary confidence. Perhaps because I have mucked out actual chicken runs, I associate the name with, well, unappetizing things.

Don’t let it throw you. My Chicken Run is one of the hidden gems of Ho Chi Minh City, combining savoury, even unique food with a fun atmosphere and great service, all at a price that is very reasonable.

You’ll know you’re at the right place when you see the large rotisserie oven on the sidewalk, the first I’ve seen this side of the Pacific.

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Rotisserie Novelty It’s the cleverest and most intriguing site in the restaurant — specially imported at great price, it may be one of a kind in Vietnam.

For locals, its novelty attracts; for expats like me, it glows with the aura of home. For everyone, it’s radiates the drool-inducing smell and sight of golden-brown chickens, slowly rotating, brimming with juice.

Stepping in, owner Hau Wai Yan is there to greet me with a handshake and a broad smile.

Yan is a genial hybrid, somehow the perfect man to run a place like My Chicken Run. The son of a Hong Kong father and French mother, he’s friendly and expansive, trained at Lausanne and filled

with a passion for food.

As expected, he’s put together a tasting for me to showcase his restaurant at its best. What I don’t expect is the charm of the man himself. He’s funny, interesting and honest, with the slightly sideways perspective that many people who’ve lived in between countries and nationalities often seem to develop.

Deja Food Tucking into the quarter chicken (VND75,000 / VND99,000 for the combo), I’m honestly transported. I grew up on low-cost, high-quality rotisserie chicken from the local Whole Foods, and by god,

PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

it’s déjà food from the first bite. The sides are all high quality — the mash is creamy and smoother than butter, the veggies are cooked but crunchy. The pork knuckle (VND75,000 / VND99,000 for the combo) initially made me wary because of a bad experience once in Munich. These, however, were meaty and juicy, fringed with tasty fat.

Yan’s interest in the history of food has led him to resurrect recipes for fruit drinks made in colonial days. The colonial soft drinks (VND22,000, and available in four flavours) take the cake for most interesting menu item — say what you will about colonialism, those patrician imperialists could make a mean mocktail.

My Chicken Run, Part Deux In fact, so good was everything that I went back about a week later so my girlfriend could check it out, too.

Here’s why I mentioned it; the first time I was there, the owner sat with me, chatted with me, assured I’d have as perfect a dining experience as possible. The second time, we were just folks — but the food and service were every bit as good. And the menu is expansive, with chicken, quail, pork, salads and more.

One of the things I like most about My Chicken Run is how well the décor reflects the owner’s personality. It’s full of whimsy, with glossy, high-quality prints of chickens

in all their majesty. The clean, bright reds and yellows warm the restaurant.

Service, too, is top-notch. Yan insists on training his people properly, and vets them personally for the right character. The servers smile, hustle and keep the place clean and welcoming.

For value, My Chicken Run is probably in the top 10 restaurants in the city, with fresh, delicious, home-made meals at a very attractive price. — Owen Salisbury My Chicken Run is located at 162 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, HCMC. It’s open from 6am to 10pm

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 177

AMAZING GRAPES WINE CONQUISTADORS

W

ine is a constantly evolving product; in the glass, in the bottle and in the vineyard.

Innovation, experimentation and the will to constantly improve is the mantra that winemakers live by. This is especially the case in the modern Spanish wine world.

Spain is currently the most dynamic wine producing country in the world.

Wine production is nothing new in Spain — it has been produced on the Iberian peninsula for more than 3,000 years. The most planted grape variety in the world is a native Spanish grape called airen, and Spain is the third largest wine

BY JIM CAWOOD

This dedication to native Spanish grapes has paid off. Winemakers experimented like crazy to see what could be achieved with their autochthonous varieties.

They worked in the vineyards, in the bodegas, tried different types of oak and fermentations; they were not restrained by tradition but rather seeking to create a new world order. Like the crucible that has been Spanish gastronomy over the last 15 years, Spanish wine has been breaking conventional rules and boundaries. The results have been impressive.

The rustic old-fashioned image is dead.

Spanish wines are now truly avant garde.

“Like the crucible that has been Spanish gastronomy over the last 15 years, Spanish wine has been breaking conventional rules and boundaries. The results have been impressive”

Made in Spain. Alcoholic volume: 14.5%

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producer in the world. With such a varied climate almost all grape varieties can be successfully grown in Spain. There are more than 400 grape varieties planted there comprising of international varieties such as chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon as well as hundreds of native varieties such as tempranillo and verdejo. Unfortunately most people no little more about Spanish wine than rioja or sherry.

Things are changing; Spain is hot right now! Under the Franco dictatorship from 1939 to 1975, the Spanish wine industry languished. Spain had become know for producing low quality, rustic and inexpensive red wines and fortifieds.

Many vineyards were in tatters and wineries were old and lacked modern equipment. In the years after Franco Spanish society flourished. Investment poured into the wine industry and there was a new lease of life. It would have been easy for winemakers to replant new vineyards full of popular varieties like chardonnay, cabernet and syrah, which could be easily sold on the export market.

While this did happen to some vineyards, for the most part the proud Spanish set about re-inventing and nurturing native varieties like monastrell, tempranillo, mencia, bobal, verdejo and albariño.

Every style imaginable is produced from unique varieties that create equally special wines. These wines are breaking new ground and are no longer restrained like Spanish food once was. Modern Spanish wines belong with all the great cuisines of the world. The new wine world order is here and it’s time to get acquainted with modern vino. Vamos!

Castaño Hecula Monastrell 2014 The Castaño family have been one of the leading pioneers of the revival of the monastrell (mourvedre) grape in southern Spain. Due to perseverance, dedication and generations of knowledge, they have been responsible for the variety’s recognition in export markets. They have turned monastrell from what was once regarded as a blending grape into a proud standalone variety. The 2014 Hecula Monastrell is just this. Bold and powerful with intense black and blue fruit flavours, pepper, cloves and spice, and a long, long smooth finish. A very impressive wine that can easily outclass many wines triple its price. Regularly scoring above 90 points from Robert Parker, it’s time to stock up the cellar with this little beauty.

Jim Cawood is a trained sommelier and is also man-at-the-helm of Saigon restaurant, Lubu

HCMC On The Town

27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL

27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424

mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

ASHOKA NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177

ashokaindianrestaurant. com

Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

alfrescosgroup.com

The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157

aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.

Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ

23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772

auparcsaigon.com

Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and

BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661

babaskitchen.in

This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.

BLACK CAT AMERICAN

13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055

blackcatsaigon.com

Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261

bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.

BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas.

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL

CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592

boomarang.com.vn

Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH

38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vi-

etnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE

40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502

Chiscafe.com

This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-your-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CHRIS FOOD ONLINE TRADITIONAL FRENCH / DESSERTS

Tel: 0909 365525 (English) / 0909 320717 (French)

chrisfoodonline.blogspot. com or facebook.com/muasaleoff2014

Traditional French cuisine and exotic dishes from the Reunion Island served up in Ho Chi Minh City and delivered to your door. All dishes are prepared with fresh ingredients, nothing is frozen. Options include cheesecake, tiramisu, lasagna, chicken curries and muffin. All speciality foods are cooked to order.

CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN

11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329

saigonrestaurantgroup.com

New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE

16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try

their pad thai — to die for.

CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.

Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN

52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327

elbowroom.com.vn

The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909

elgaucho.com.vn

A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town.

EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN

Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients.

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HCMC On The Town

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786

ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com

The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace.

Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN PAN-VIETNAMESE

7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066

hogsbreathcafe.com.vn

Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931

Alfrescosgroup.com

Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

KABIN CANTONESE

Renaissance Riverside Hotel,

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8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

marriott.com

Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot!

L’OLIVIER

sofitel.com

Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN

48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882

lacuisine.com.vn

This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine.

Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LE CORTO CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0671

facebook.com/LeCorto

Open for lunch and set dinner, this beautifully designed restaurant and bar seamlessly mixes contemporary and with classic. With a menu cooked up by reputed chef Sakal Phoeung, and with a contemporary twist to traditional French fare, this is a place to enjoy the luxuries of fine cuisine and even finer wine.

MARKET 39

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

One of the top three buffet restaurants in town.

Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality.

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET

LION CITY SINGAPOREAN

45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371

lioncityrestaurant.com

Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN

29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727

loveat.vn

Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere.

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

a darkwood, aircon interior.

Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence.

Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour.

LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN

97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371

luburestaurant.com

Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.

Has petanque on the terrace.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests.

MAD HOUSE CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT

6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009

facebook.com/madsaigon

Set over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful rustic décor is matched by

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD

19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

may.restaurant19@gmail. com

Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar.

Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478

info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.

MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN

1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE

136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996

namgiao.com

If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES

18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late.

PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN

87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282

pendolasco.vn

Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2.

PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520

facebook.com/PitchersPMH Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area.

Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.

PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION

8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838

pizza4ps.com

This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

POP FRIES CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES

14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938 754851 A street food eatery concept that originates from Los Angeles and New York, and born from a passion for sharing, here it’s all about the loaded fries. The potatoes are twice-cooked and come piled high with a range of inventive toppings. Funky décor and long benches make up the mix.

PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

RACHA ROOM CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 6253 7711

theracharoom.com

The Racha Room delivers Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on high quality ingredients. Racha features a large selection of spirits at a seated bar and high table to ensure drinking along with eating remains central to the experience.

The current and future of Asian-inspired drinking and dining is right here at the Racha Room.

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE

8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town.

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509

therefinerysaigon.com

A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500

facebook.com/quanutut

It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with

sanfulou.com

RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR 44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel (08) 6291 8187

relishandsons.com

Relish & Sons burgers are lovingly made with a healthy food philosophy in mind and fresh high quality ingredients. The beef patties are 100% Australian grass-fed; the buns are made with a reduced sugar and salt content. Burger relishes such as chutneys are all made inhouse from scratch.

SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN

REFINERY QUAN BUI

Tel: (08) 3823 9513

grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike.

Reservations advised.

SAIGON CAFÉ

Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further.

SEOUL HOUSE

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

KOREAN

33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297

seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE

Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221

shangpalace.com.vn

Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

STOKER CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 3826 8691

stokerwoodfiredgrill.com

One of the world’s oldest culinary techniques — grilling over a wood fire. Stoker kitchen uses different woods to infuse foods with different smoky flavours. These techniques revolutionize live fire cooking by providing precise heat control through the use of a grilling surface that can be adjusted to different cooking heights above the hot coals.

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET

Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch.

SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN

Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1

SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN

9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798

skewers-restaurant.com

Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689

soraesushi.com

Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 181

A WORLD

OF

MEANING WHAT YOU SAY

W

e’ve looked at ill-defined terminology before. The non-profit sector not only loves its jargon (MEAL policy, anyone?) but what about those popular — and hazy — words that sound like they really nail something on the head, but upon closer inspection collapse under the weight of their lofty ambitions. ‘Building capacity’ or ‘sustainability’ or ‘delivering impact’ (ack!) are all suspect terms and rightfully so.

They’re overused and defined so broadly as to become meaningless. I’ll offer up ‘empowerment’ to demonstrate what I mean.

Empowerment was (yes, past tense) a beautiful word signifying the demand for social justice in racial politics, for women, for ethnic minorities, and any others seeking to express their diversity and rights before the eyes of the law. Now empowerment has come to encapsulate your freedom to post a selfie with or without clothing, your ability to choose (and thereby endorse) one flavoured water over another, or even manage your carefully curated online clicktivism.

Resiliency Here’s another term: ‘resiliency’. This is a word that is about to be co-opted right out of context and I’d like to start a campaign to save it. Sustainability, empowerment and capacity-building are wonderful words

182 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

that have sadly grown meaningless (like ‘to curate’, for that matter) as they become buzz words entering the diluting waters of the mainstream. A daycare delivers social impact via your child’s targeted learning outcomes while empowering little Olivia and Jack to reach their full potential because interacting with mud pies builds their capacity. Uhm, OK. In development circles resiliency is a remarkable word because in short, it refers to communities’ ability to get along just fine without too many donors and aid workers hovering around telling folks what to do.

The UK medical journal The Lancet dryly observed not long after the earthquake in Haiti that aid agencies are increasingly acting “according to their own best interests rather than in the interests of individuals whom they claim to help”.

The authors further described large aid agencies as being "highly competitive" with one another and "obsessed with raising money" and worse, are “polluted by the internal power politics and the unsavoury characteristics seen in many big corporations”. This tough criticism was aimed directly at the earthquake relief efforts, but the point is the same: a ‘West knows best’ stance helps no one. There was “little to no collaboration” with the existing grassroots charities that likely have better

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

networks and as such are “better placed to immediately implement” relief efforts.

Resiliency is acknowledging the inherent ability of others and is related to their agency, experience and context. It sounds simple, but it can be extraordinarily difficult to untangle our own egocentricity.

An Insider Approach In my campaign for keeping resiliency in its proper (read, awesome) context it may be useful to adopt an emic approach, defined anthropologically as an ‘insider’ perspective. What does the community have going on for itself and within its individuals? This stands in opposition to an etic approach, typified by an ‘outsider’ perspective imposing itself on explanations of the community and its behaviour.

By giving voice — acknowledging resiliency — we fundamentally shift the perception of an individual’s or community’s ability to thrive. That’s a campaign I’m happy to champion.

So no, while your dietary choices, for example, might be emic, ordering only low-cal, gluten-free, raw foods do not demonstrate your resiliency.

Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an award-winning nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth

HCMC On The Town

TAMAGO

TIN NGHIA

PAN-JAPANESE

VEGAN

39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634

tamagoresto@gmail.com

Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms.

They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244

Templeclub.com.vn

Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

M M M STREET FOOD BA GHIEN COM TAM

84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan

MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632

thedecksaigon.com

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE

144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533

facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe

Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar.

A popular hangout.

BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI

107 Truong Dinh, Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection.

Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10 BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 PHO DAU PHO BO

288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3

BANH TAM

271 Nguyen Trai, Q1 BO KHO

NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE

BA NAM

PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

260C Pasteur, Q3

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917

PHO LE

BUN CHA HA NOI

PHO PHU GIA

Namsonsteak.com

PHO BO

413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH CUON HAI NAM BANH CUON

BUN CHA

PHO BO

26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3

CHI THONG

PHO PHU VUONG

11A Cao Thang, Q3 BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU

BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI

PHO BO

195 Co Giang, Q1

339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh

COM GA XOI MO SU SU

SUSHI KO

BANH KHOT

102 Cao Thang, Q3 THE DECK

170 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH MI HONG HOA

VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN

STREET SUSHI

55 Tu Xuong, Q3

122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4

COM TAM 40A

THE LUNCH LADY

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1

COM TAM

BANH MI HUYNH HOA

23 Hoang Sa, Q1

MI QUANG MY SON

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI

26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1

MI QUANG

BANH MI SAU MINH

DAILY CHANGING DISHES

40A Quoc Huong, Q2

38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1

HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE

67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999

facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM

Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too.

ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897

vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom

This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 183

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The Final Say THE FINAL SAY

CULTURE

10 Steps to Knowing Foreigners Wonder why you get a mix of reactions when you have encounters with your Vietnamese hosts? Vu Ha Kim Vy explains why Vietnamese act as they do when they meet a ‘foreigner’

“C

an you introduce me to an anh Tay?” is the most common question asked by my Vietnamese single friends when they discover I have been working and socializing with foreigners for about eight years. But to be honest, many of us are not so interested in people from overseas. My mother once told me: “You don’t have to date a foreign guy.

Vietnamese guys are still good!” I guess all she wanted to say was that she was afraid of the language barrier, the culture clash and losing me if I moved to another country.

Yet this article is not going to talk about love or culture clashes or living overseas.

Instead, it’s about helping you, the ‘foreigner’, understand how Vietnamese people think, and it will explain why at times we behave in a manner that might seem a little weird.

So, here is what tends to go through the Vietnamese mind when they come across foreigners.

Stage 1: “I want to say hello!”

Don’t worry if you are on your way to work and Vietnamese people say “Hello!” to you.

They just regard you as a guest in their country and want to show their hospitality.

Normally, they will end their comment with a smile. This happens more when you visit the countryside, as people there, especially children, will generally all say hello to you.

All you need to do is say hello and smile back. Not that difficult.

Stage 2: “Oh, that price will not hurt them.”

As the US dollar fetches a lot of dong, some of us still think foreigners are rich and that it’s okay if we charge them more than the locals. To deal with this, go to fixed-price shops, supermarkets or go shopping with a local friend.

Stage 3: “He is so handsome.”

People tend to wish for what they don’t have. Most Vietnamese prefer women with fair skin; some believe that blond hair and blue eyes are the two key factors of a

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beautiful face. So don’t be annoyed if some of us stare at you or try to touch you. All it means is that you’re good looking. And if they don’t stare? Well, don’t let it affect your ego.

Stage 4: “Let’s practice English.”

You have no idea how cool and nice I felt when I was able to communicate with a foreigner in English. This first happened to me when I was in high school. It is something that not so many people can do, and it makes us feel special. To many of us, especially students, foreigners are useful just for practicing English so that they can feel cool and hip. As a foreigner, you can either stay away, or offer a little bit of help by hanging around the parks where students search out subjects to help them improve their English. There are also some English clubs in the town.

hearing a foreigner complaining about life in Vietnam. Many of these foreigners have been in Vietnam quite a long time. Everyone in the area knows them and they can often understand some Vietnamese. They know where to stay, eat, buy and hang out on the cheap. They get paid better than us, but they are still not happy.

Stage 8: “Stay away from me.”

Vietnamese who make this statement usually get frustrated and have been through bad experiences with foreigners. It could be problems at work, bad behaviour, money scams or romantic relationships gone wrong. During this stage, we tend to reduce interactions with foreigners and limit our communication with them. Depending on the person, this stage may last for several months. It may even last forever. In my case it was several months.

Stage 5: “We need a foreign expert in this field.”

Stage 9: “Oh, they speak Vietnamese so well.”

Most of us believe that anything which comes from overseas is better, especially education, science and technology. That’s why a large number of Vietnamese-owned companies have foreign managers and staff. This is not only to take advantage of overseas knowledge, but also to expand the market to the expat community. In this scenario, if you can speak Vietnamese it’s a real plus.

A foreigner who can speak Vietnamese fluently always surprises us and makes us smile. Some of us might speak Vietnamese back to them, some of us might keep speaking English. Then we might call them a Vietnamese ghost or ma so — meaning they have been in Vietnam for a long time, know everything about the country and can speak the language. But don’t get me wrong; you are still a foreigner. It doesn’t matter how long you have been here or how fluently you can speak the language, it’s the look that matters.

Stage 6: “It’s not fair.”

This is the complaint that most of my university teaching friends make when they discover that a foreign colleague gets paid better than them, although that person may only have a high school education. They also envy the fact that foreigners can make a living simply by teaching their mother tongue (English), while Vietnamese have to learn English to get a well-paid job. I guess they just forget that there are a lot of foreigners in Vietnam who want to learn Vietnamese and are willing to pay well.

Stage 7: “If you don’t like it here, you don’t have to stay.”

I have used this sentence several times after

Stage 10: “Hey, how are you doing?”

This stage usually follows the “stay away from me” stage, as after we have been through good and bad experiences with foreigners, we understand that what kind of person someone is depends on their personality, not their nationality. Then we start to have close foreign friends who speak a different language but understand and treat us as like brothers and sisters.

Vietnamese people at this stage are usually open-minded and are at ease with foreigners.

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The Final Say

Ten10

Few people have had as much influence on contemporary art in Vietnam as Suzanne Lecht. Here in 10 short questions and answers is her story. Photo by Julie Vola What brought you to Vietnam?

In July 1992 my beloved husband Charley died in Tokyo. I stayed on for another year reluctant to leave years of memory.

In September 1993 knowing I had to move on with my life, I went to Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Bangkok and Chiang Mai seeking some passion.

Nothing was resonating. Then in November 1993 I read an issue of Cathay Pacific’s in-flight magazine devoted to Vietnam. Upon opening it my eyes fell upon a startlingly beautiful photograph of two very old Vietnamese men, their long, wispy beards trailing to the ground, sipping tea in the soft rain, fading ancient beauty surrounding them in the Old Quarter of Hanoi. The corresponding article showed the current works of a group of five male painters, ‘The Gang of Five’, who with their fresh, figurative abstract expressions of the spirit of the Vietnamese were attracting international attention. The fragile, crumbling beauty, in stark contrast to this bold, wild energy and hope for the future touched my heart.

A month later I arrived in Hanoi.

What was it like living in Hanoi in the 1990s?

It was a little bit of everything… magical moments, great joy, unexpected happenings, great confusion, a roller coaster ride everyday. Definitely not for the faint of heart. But, it was magical, especially at night. No electricity after 9pm, little gaslights on tea stands, cyclo rides around the lake and down to the mausoleum while being quoted poetry by my cyclo driver, a physicist who had studied in Russia; artists coming by to whisk me off at midnight to go to pagodas to watch the sunrise; 5pm drinks at the Metropole where everyone networked since there were no cellphones and few landlines. Wonderful, charming, funny, frustrating, fabulous times.

How have you seen contemporary art develop in the past 20 years?

Vietnamese artists are now frequently exhibiting abroad, attending workshops and residencies. That said the local art scene is still struggling. There are few Vietnamese contemporary art collectors so all of the good work is leaving the country. There is no contemporary art museum and little support for the arts so it is still a huge struggle for the artists to make a living.

There is a great need for education in arts management and also in education for the

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public so that they understand, appreciate and support the arts.

Does Hanoi have the same magic for you now as it did when you first arrived?

I find magic in Hanoi every day — there is always something to discover. I still love the little tea stands, the bun rieu at the Fat Lady’s noodle shop, the wide smiles of the street vendors, the incense wafting from the pagodas, the wailing funeral dirge of the dan bau, the laughter and smiles of the children running about. There is always some kind of magic to be found.

If you could turn back time, what would you change from your time in Vietnam?

I never think about turning back the time.

As my friend Pham Quang Vinh said as he was taking off the rear view mirrors of my first motorbike in 1994: “No look back, no have time!”

Have you ever tried to leave?

I have never even contemplated leaving.

Can’t quite imagine it really.

Would you classify yourself as an expat? Why or why not?

I don’t think of myself as an ‘expat’. I think that is such a strange word or expression.

I don’t feel any strong allegiance to any country. I like to think of myself as a citizen of the world. And anyway, I don’t like labels!

How well do you think you’ve integrated into Vietnamese life and society?

I love this country and have many wonderful Vietnamese friends. However, I am always mindful that I am an outsider. This is not a bad thing. I am always aware of how I must accommodate myself to the country, for I am a guest here.

How difficult has it been working in the art industry in Vietnam?

Difficult, expensive and wonderful. It is the passion of my life and has brought me many gifts. I have received far more than I am able to give.

What are your hopes for the future of Vietnamese contemporary art?

My big dream before I die is to see a contemporary art museum, art education for the masses, compulsory art education in school, trained Vietnamese art professionals working nationally and internationally, professional galleries and art centres, and a more public integration of culture in all its forms — literature, art, music, dance, poetry — that is accessible to all.

Suzanne’s gallery Art Vietnam can be found online at artvietnamgallery.com

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