Word Vietnam March 2016

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 3 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

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Through Our Eyes

Contents Mar. 2016

50

84

THE TALK 010 / Down the Drain

It’s not rising sea levels that are the problem, but sinking land

011 / The Big Five March = festival

BRIEFINGS 12 / The Death of the Corner Shop

The convenience stores are taking over

14 / How to Out a Hacker

… and almost get their name and address

16 / Game for a Laugh

This month, comedy is coming to Saigon big time

20 / The Saigon Cyclo

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108

Challenge

96 / The Honey Hunters

26 / The Ta Lai Trophy

102 / A Vietnamese Mosaic

The hippest charity fundraiser in town Vietnam’s only quadrathlon is scheduled for a return

INSIDER 46 / The Many Faces of Vietnam

From stonemason to photographer, Trung Del has seen (and shot) it all

50 / Through Our Eyes

Vietnam through the eye of a lens

84 / The Beautiful People

Vietnamese models in Vietnamese environments

90 / When Backs are Turned Turning portrait photos on their head

A trip into the jungles of Bangladesh

Vietnam is a country of contrasts

EAT & DRINK 108 / Saigon High

Everything you need to know about the not-so-humble skybar

118 / Mystery Diner Hanoi This month’s review: Rico

120 / Street Snacker Hanoi On the menu: banh troi tau

122/ Mystery Diner HCMC An Italian restaurant with aspirations

124 / Street Snacker HCMC Time to go vegetarian

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Contents Mar. 2016

126

138

198

TRAVEL

158 / Top Eats 1

152 / The Therapist

126/ Bagan with a Holga

160 / Top Eats 2

154 / Student Eye

164 / City Map

162 / Medical Buff

134 / Notes from Another City

HCMC

168/ Business Buff

Festival time in Vung Tau

30 / To-Do List

170 / Body and Temple

138 / The Motorbike Diaries

36 / Just In

172 / The Gym Diaries

Matt and Nemo get to Sikkim

166 / HCMC City Guide

184 / Amazing Grapes

HANOI

180 / Bar Stool

186 / Know Your City

38 / To-Do List

188 / Top Eats 1

194 / A World of Good

42 / Just In

192 / Top Eats 2

FINAL SAY

140 / Hanoi City Guide

184 / City Map

198 / The Last Cake Mould Cutter

144 / Day Tripper

COLUMNS

One craftsman tries to preserve a dying art

150 / Bar Stool

146 / Book Buff

200 / Ten 10

156 / Coffee Cup

148 / The Alchemist

A trip to the spiritual heart of Myanmar

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François and Sébastien from NOI Pictures

Do Do you you want want your your children children to to realise realise their their full full potential? potential?

The ABCIS offers an outstanding teaching and learning environment The ABCIS offers an outstanding teaching and learning environment to help your child rise to the challenge of an ever-changing global to help your child rise to the challenge of an ever-changing global community. community.

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CONTRIBUTORS This month we asked our team to tell us about the photos that have moved them the most.

JON ASPIN Staff Editor At school I used to spend hours looking at those oversized Time Life photojournalism books about war. There were several famous images that I can never forget. More recently I recall the picture of Felix Baumgartner jumping from a helium balloon in low orbit to promote an energy drink. What a world!

TRUNG DEL Contributor The photo book that inspired and moved me so much is The Suffering of Light by Alex Webb.

VI PHAM Contributor The most touching one for me is the wedding photo of my parents. They looked so happy in the picture and I feel thankful for the photographer who took it so well to capture the moment and the feeling, although I’ve never known who he was.

JESS MEADOWS Writer There’s this book called Closer by Elinor Carucci, where she makes these really intimate photos of herself and her family.

It made me realise that photography is not only a tool for examining the world around you, but for looking closer at your own life, too.

NICK ROSS Chief Editor I remember years ago the famous image of the Bosnian Muslims behind barbed wire in Srebrenica during the war in Yugoslavia. The photo turned out to be a set up — the people were not actually hemmed in by barbed wire. This was not a concentration camp. But it made me realise the ability of photography to change people’s perspectives.

MADS MONSEN Creative Director Similar experience; Roger Fenton’s image of what they dubbed “The Valley of the Shadow of Death” where they moved cannon balls around for a ‘better picture’. It made me realise that photography is simply an illusion and can never be a truthful medium. It will always be biased by the person creating the image.

OWEN SALISBURY Staff Writer Any portrait that makes me feel like I know the person without ever having met them; any landscape that makes me homesick for a place I’ve never been; any food photo that makes me hungry.

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor nick@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

JON ASPIN Staff Editor jon@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer julie@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter & Photographer francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

OWEN SALISBURY Staff Writer owen@wordvietnam.com

JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer (Hanoi) jesse@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

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For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to Kieran Crowe, Suzette Mitchell, Tim Mullet of Saigon Children's Charity, Belinda Smith, ISSP, ISHCMC — American Academy, George Abraham of Ta Lai Longhouse, Grant Keys of Vietnam Swans, Rob Brewer, Trung Del, Natalia Martinez, Vu Bao Khanh, Morgan Ommer, Thiery Beyne, Tim Barker, Ehrin Macksey, Don Wills, Matt Dworzanczyk, Truong from Bookworm, Karen Gay, Kate Robinson, To Thu Phuong, Billy Gray, Douglas Holwerda, Michael E Santos, Shane Dillon, Phil Kelly, Jim Cawood, Ed Haysom, Dana McNairn, Emily Petsko, François Carlet-Soulages, Sébastien Löffler, Fuji Pham and David Legard

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JULIE VOLA Photographer I would have to say Ansel Adams and his spectacular landscapes.

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CÔNG TY TNHH MTV NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THẾ GIỚI Trụ sở chính: 46 Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội Tel: 04.3825.3841 – Fax: 04.3826.9578 Email: thegioi@ thegioipublishers.vn Website: www. thegioipublishers.vn

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Prelude

A

bout nine years ago we put together an article on Saigon’s parks. Our photographer of the time was feeling lazy, and rather than getting off his bike, he stopped in front of the Cultural Park on Truong Dinh, and took the images from his vehicle. The result was a set of photos that had his bike’s wing mirror in the frame. It was appalling.

The problem we had when we started Word

there are a few people to thank for that — previous art directors like Jim Abril and Paolo Maling, and our present creative director, Mads Monsen. Our layout designer, Nguyen Loc, is the fastest designer you’ll ever see. He’s also one of the most resilient.

For photos, right now we have a team to be proud of. Kyle Phanroy is our photo editor — unfortunately, he’s leaving this month to seek a career path back in the US. In Hanoi we’ve got the super organised and wonderfully creative Julie Vola, who works together with another writer-cumphotographer with flair, Jesse Meadows. Down south, Francis Xavier has been shooting for us for more than four

years now. Her attention to detail is phenomenal.

And then we’ve got the freelancers — Vu Bao Khanh, Trung Del, Fuji Pham, Natalia Martinez — as well as people like me, Nick Ross, and our staff writer, Owen Salisbury.

While words still remain vitally important to us — we continue to pride ourselves on our content — this month’s issue is about paying homage to our people behind the lens. Together with the designers, the curators who put their images on the page, they have done and continue to do a wonderful job for us.

The days of wing mirrors creeping into photos are well and truly gone. — Nick Ross, Chief Editor

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 3 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

Through Our Eyes

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

The

and its predecessors, Saigon Inside Out and then Asialife, was that the two main people who created the publication were people who worked with words. Photography for us was of the point-andshoot variety, and while one of the two founders was also a layout designer, at first we didn’t quite get the need for strong photography and design with flair.

We’ve already gone through a decade of publishing magazines in Vietnam, and in April we hit issue 100 of Word. These days, photography and design is as important as words, and the magazine looks far better than it did 10 years ago or even five.

On the design front,

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THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo by Kyle Phanroy Design by DH Advertising

Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

Inbox Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us at nick@ wordvietnam. com — we’re at your fingertips.

Getting Better I just want to say congrats. The last few issues of word have been so readable and interesting but the February issue is really exciting!

The new vibe of Saigon is absolutely jumping off your pages!

I have been trying to put together a book about Saigon for two years but the youth-led culture has been changing so fast that I haven’t been able to commit to print. The minute I do — it will be out of date!

Thanks for a great read! — BM

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Notes from Another City: Vung Tau (February 2016, page 134) Hey cool article... I have visited Vung Tau and you described it pretty well. The main reason I visited the place was because I don’t like touristy resorts and the beaches there were exactly what I was hoping for. I loved swimming at Back Beach with the locals, and the food stalls on the beach were great. — DG I’ve been to Vung Tau a few times. The locals leave so much rubbish on the beach it’s disgusting to see, especially during the night when the street food vendors setup on the sand. Filthy. I wish locals would have more respect for the place. Learn to use a rubbish bin. Geez… — DK Like the place. Fun to go there in the vintage hydrofoils and the seafood is excellent. — NM A total dump — KP Sounds like a great place. I can’t wait to get there. — MB Don’t tell everyone. We like the fact no one goes. We get the beach to ourselves. — DL

Insider

INSIDER

HCMC

A Short History of Thao Dien

From sleepy north-ofSaigon backwater to a new city, the expat area of Thao Dien has developed beyond recognition. Words and Photos by Nick Ross

G

iang is taking me on a tour of Thao Dien. But we’re not doing a who’s who of the wealthy expat area of Saigon that we know today. This is the Thao Dien of the past, one that has gone from being a small outpost on the other side of the Saigon River to a new hub on the edge of Saigon.

According to paperwork on display in the 80-year-old Thao Dien Temple on Street 41, the hamlet was originally called Ich Phu. Established in 1852, after the arrival of the French it was incorporated into the newly formed province of Bien Hoa. That was in the 1860s. In 1893, boundaries were once again redrawn. This time Ich Phu found itself integrated into the newly formed district of Thu Duc. Accessible only by boat until the 1961 completion of the Saigon Bridge, no-one quite knows when the name Ich Phu was lost — by the time Giang moved there in 1973, it was already a name of the past.

“There was no highway,” he recalls of his early days in the area. “When you came

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A Short History of Thao Dien (February 2016, page 52) I was the first expat to live outside the compound (at the time only diplomats and officials) in Thao dien in 1991… The other ong tay was Rodolphe an adventurer who built a 20-metre boat. — SF Interesting article. Thanks for investigating and sharing! — SJ No Thao Dien is not the wealthiest area in Saigon. Phu My Hung surpasses that by a mile. — WAE

Möet & Chandon made in France — 12% Alcohol Vol

EASTER SUNDAY BRUNCH Complimentary Oysters with your Möet & Chandon SUNDAY 27 MARCH 2016 38 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, D2 HCMC W

thedecksaigon.com

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Talk Lead

THE TALK

LEAD ARTICLE

Down the Drain

It’s not only rising sea levels we have to worry about, but subsidence

I

n mid–2014, journalist Hong Van travelled from Ho Chi Minh City to Ca Mau, the southwesterly tip of the Mekong Delta, to write a piece for futureearth. org. On her journey she met a fish trader, Le Thanh Liem, who told her of a common problem faced by inhabitants of the Delta; flooding. He had already had to move house three times due to floods and rising water levels. “If the water keeps on getting higher each year,” he said, “we will move further inland and build the house even higher.”

Liem’s experience is not uncommon. The Mekong Delta faces three threats; rising sea levels — an already well-documented scenario; the fact that it is sinking, a phenomenon known as subsidence, and the building of huge dams upriver in Laos and China which are preventing the flow of silt which created the Delta in the first place.

According to a recent satellite-based study by Norway’s Geotechnical Institute (NGI) and Vietnam’s Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development, the land surface of areas like Ca Mau has fallen by up to 70cm since 2000.

“Since the average surface of Ca Mau province is only 1 to 1.5 metres above sea level, the consequences of such subsidence will be catastrophic, and make the province uninhabitable within a few decades,” said NGI Technical Director Philos Kjell Karlsrud.

A Wall of Mangrove In Can Gio, the most southeasterly district of Ho Chi Minh City, Le Duc Tuan is the long-term chief of the Can Gio Mangrove Research Center. His job is to keep the mangroves — a UNESCO-listed biosphere reserve — intact, even as pressure builds to bring construction to the area as part of Ho Chi Minh City’s relentless expansion.

In an interview he gave to wwno.org in early 2015, he said that the mangroves are like a “big natural wall to protect Ho Chi Minh City from storms. And some big storms come to the coastal zones of Vietnam. But Can Gio and Ho Chi Minh City are not affected so much, because of this natural green wall.”

The present construction rush across Ho Chi Minh City seems to be ignoring the possibility that Vietnam’s largest metropolis is walking towards an environmental disaster. Take away the mangroves of Can Gio and it could get even worse.

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That Sinking Feeling According to Ho Chi Minh City’s Department of Natural Resources and Environment, the city is set to sink between 12 and 20cm between 2013 and 2020. In an interview with Thanh Nien, Ho Long Phi, director of the Center of Water Management and Climate Change (WACC), provided another perspective. Many areas in the city are sinking between 1.5cm and 3cm per year, he explained, about three times as quickly as sea levels are rising.

Yet Phi’s estimates could be quite conservative.

According to a 2015 report by the International Association of Hydrological Sciences, subsidence in Ho Chi Minh City is as much as 8cm a year. Roads such as Nguyen Huu Canh in Binh Thanh, states an article in Tuoi Tre, sank 70cm to 80cm over a recent two-year period.

Apart from the clearing of mangroves in District 7, Binh Chanh and District 2, mass urbanization and the over-pumping of groundwater resources are the main problems mentioned in a study conducted by Dr. Le Xuan Thuyen of the HCMC University of Natural Sciences.

None of this is new — the Thai capital Bangkok has been sinking for decades, for identical reasons, and its street level could be largely underwater by 2100, studies suggest. So could Ho Chi Minh City.

Taking Action Throughout human history, some societies have learnt lessons from the errors of others. Some haven’t. Vietnam, it seems, is making strides to avoid an environmental catastrophe, but how much is really being done and, more importantly, enforced, is unknown.

A recent Climate Adaptation Strategy document prepared together with the City of Rotterdam suggests that subsidence is being taken seriously. And certainly the work done on upgrading the city’s sewerage and water systems over the past 15 years will take pressure off the excessive usage of groundwater. Likewise, the present ‘swampland’ developments in District 2 are being built on raised ground in an attempt to avoid flooding.

But when there’s money to be made, financial necessity talks more than common sense. How this battle between environmental prudence and individual profit will play out is yet to be seen. — Nick Ross

Big5 The

Lots ‘n lots of comedy, an Irish festival, a French festival and a cyclo race.

March is shaping up very nicely, thank you very much

a

Time to laugh! A recent comedy show in Hanoi headlined by Glenn Wool

St. Patrick’s Day is upon us this month and even the pigs are coming out to play

It’s March which means it’s time for the Saigon Cyclo Challenge

b)

c)

1

a)

c

b

The Saigon Cyclo Challenge Comedy Gets Itself a Festival HCMC, Q1 Mar. 5, Mar. 15 and Mar. 16

We all love to laugh, right? Well this month courtesy of Magners Irish Cider we’ll be splitting our sides.

A comedy festival is here and kicking off at deciBel on Friday, Mar. 4 will be the Big V Comedy Competition. This is followed by the Big V finals on Tuesday, Mar. 15 at Saigon Ranger and then a night given over to the pros on Wednesday, Mar. 16 at Phatty’s.

This one’s gonna be big and not only will it celebrate the laughter that both amateur and pro standups have been giving us for over four years, it will also do its best to raise the comedic bar.

To find our more turn to page 16 and page 32

New Zealand Food and Wine Festival 2

HCMC, Q7 Mar. 12

The New Zealand Wine and Food Festival has been running for years and remains one of Saigon’s favourite bashes.

Imported New Zealand wines, Kiwi-style food, a chance to relax on the lawn, family fun and lots of live music are part of the ample spread. All making this an event

not to be missed.

For more information click on facebook.com/ wineandfoodfestivalnewzealandhcmc or turn to page 32

3

St Patrick’s Day Hanoi and HCMC Mar. 17, Mar. 18 and Mar. 19

St. Paddy’s is going big this year in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City with not one but four events.

It all starts on St. Patrick’s Day itself with a grand old Irish craic at Dublin Gate Irish Pub in Saigon.

The following day, Hanoi gets its celebratory turn, with the St. Patrick Rocks Concert at the American Club. Headlined by the awardwinning band, Hipster, expect a great night out with food, music and lots of good entertainment.

On Saturday, Mar. 19, the Intercontinental Westlake in Hanoi will host the St. Patrick’s Gala Ball featuring live music, a great Irish meal, Irish coffee, and a free flow of beer, wine, and Magners Irish Cider. And not to be outdone, Saigon Outcast will entertain the St Patrick’s Day Festival with AllIreland Flute, Concertina, Fiddle and Irish Dance Champions Cian Kearns, Niamh O’Sullivan, Claire Walsh and Mark Nestor flown in all the way from Ireland.

You know you want to take part in this one. So, for more info, turn to page 32, page 33 and 38

4

HCMC, Celadon City Saturday, Mar. 19

The cyclo first arrived here in the early 20th century and in the years since it has become an iconic slice of this country’s history.

The Saigon Cyclo Challenge has been paying homage to the humble cyclo since 2001 with an annual team-building tournament organized

by Saigon Children’s Charity. The 2016 version involves a cheerleading competition, lucky draws, a best-inshow cyclo decoration award and team challenges highlighting the charity’s work; it will all culminate in the Saigon Cyclo Challenge Grand Final at some time around 4.15pm.

For further information or to register your team go to to saigonchildren.com.

For full details turn to page 20

5

Gout de France Hanoi, Danang and HCMC Monday, Mar. 21

More than two dozen restaurants in Vietnam will take part in the Good France culinary event to be held on Mar. 21. A worldwide phenomenon with the participation of over 1,500 restaurants around the globe, each restaurant creates a special menu for the night with meals following a set pattern: aperitif and canapés, starter, main course (s), cheese, dessert (s), French wines and champagnes.

For the full list of participating restaurants and the menu for the day, click on goodfrance.com

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Briefings National

The Death of the Corner Shop The time of the convenience store is nigh. But will the corner shop survive?

F

amily Mart. Circle K. Vinmart.

We’ve all seen them, their bright neon-lit facades beckoning us inside with promises of cold beer, dried noodles, ice cream, and maybe even a suspect-looking steamed bun which has been sitting on a heated rack since time immemorial, slowly incubating enough bacteria to take down a cow. We wander inside after a few beers, hungry and looking for a snack. Many of us also leave hungry, as the selection of fare is limited.

Despite this, the success and popularity of these chain convenience stores is obvious.

You can hardly walk 10 steps down a street in District 1 or 2 without tripping over a Circle K or a Family Mart, and they are beginning to spread to other districts and further afield to Hanoi; in the past six

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months, Circle K has descended on the capital with force. Meanwhile, the relatively new Vinmart is hoping to prevail through diversification by positioning itself as a slightly more middle-class version of its convenience store brethren.

All for One So what does this mean for the humble family-run corner shop? For those of us living in more far-flung and less glamorous parts of the metropolis, these vendors are cornerstones of everyday life. You know the type; dusty, cramped stores with shelves piled high with a variety of goods, where you can pick up pretty much anything you need and plenty that you don’t. The mother of the family sells you ice, the dad flogs batteries, and the kid who should probably

be at school works the till. Did I say till? I meant enormous wad of cash produced from the teen’s pocket, from which all change is provided.

Need to wash your fancy shirt for a hot date? Nip down to the corner shop for detergent. Date went better than expected?

Nip down to the corner shop for protection.

Pooped yourself during the date and your prospective lover fled in disgust? Nip down to the corner shop for some beer to console yourself. And possibly more detergent.

Unfortunately, as the big chains start to encroach on the territory of the humble corner shop, it begs the question: is this the beginning of the end for the mom and pop stores? Perhaps the answer can be found by looking at neighbouring countries in Asia.

Circle K in To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Squirreled Away In Bangkok, there are few mom and pop stores remaining, and my colleagues in Thailand estimate that even in smaller villages about two-thirds of convenience stores are chains. According to one Thailand-based expat, the only reason they survive is because they sell beer after hours. Meanwhile in South Korea, 7-Eleven (an American-Japanese venture) has become more widespread than the native Korean GS25 convenience stores, in a sad case reminiscent of the fiendish grey squirrel becoming more populous than the indigenous red squirrel in the British Isles.

Well, sort of.

Singapore, that great bastion of unbridled capitalism, has naturally welcomed 7-Elevens with open arms,

leaving barely any breathing room for traditional corner shops, which have been banished to the outer suburbs. And in Shanghai, there is a Family Mart on practically every street, with C-Store providing some competition in terms of market share.

This pattern of chain stores out-muscling the little guy is very likely to be replicated here in Vietnam. As the Circle Ks and Family Marts sprout up on every street, they will leave very little market share for traditional corner shops. Already dominant in Saigon, the chains are spreading through Hanoi, and it’s a safe bet that once they have achieved dominance in the big cities, they will start opening outlets in the smaller towns in the provinces.

Corner shops will find it difficult to

compete, as the chain stores have volume buying power and also offer a greater variety of products; for example, Circle K stocks San Pellegrino aranciata and Family Mart offers 15 different brands of shampoo. Moreover, the chains can afford to buy up the best shop locations.

This is likely to be exacerbated by the arrival of a shiny new competitor, 7-Eleven, which is rumoured to be launching in Vietnam by 2018. Sadly, it seems that the days of the corner shop are numbered. It’s not all bad news though; as anybody who has been to Bangkok can attest, 7-Eleven provides delicious ham and cheese toasted sandwiches, which solves the aforementioned post-beer munchies problem at least. — Kieran Crowe

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 13

The original Dropbox link sent by the hacker

Briefings International

How to Out a Hacker …and almost get their name and address

W

hen Nguyen Minh Chau (name changed) had her Gmail account compromised, the hacker went through the standard procedures to try and extort more passwords — they sent out a fake Dropbox logo with a link for all of Chau’s contacts to download the file. Clicking on the link would mean the chance of someone else getting hacked.

Seeing the link and knowing Chau I replied to the email with three question marks. I wanted to know if this was real or if it was fake. The email exchange that followed made it very clear that this was a sham.

The original Dropbox link sent by the hacker

We all know about those dark, nameless souls who use the anonymity of the internet to achieve unsavoury goals. They hack into Facebook or email accounts, plant malware and make use of any success they have to extort money. The big boys, the ones who get past the security of major websites or government agencies, make the headlines. The small ones don’t, but they’re just as lethal. These are people who lead a strange and dark existence.

When it pays it pays, when it doesn’t, they try someone else. To arrest them requires whole teams of investigators to out them from their cloud of secrecy.

This is how the conversation went:

********** Dear Nick, I’m sorry to bother you, I am in a terrible situation right now and am going to need your urgent help.

I am in Limassol, Cyprus at the moment and I misplaced my bag containing all my vital items, phone and money.

I’m trying to sort things out with the necessary authorities but still need a little help from you.

Thank you very much! ********** Sure, I can help. What’s your name? ********** Dear Nick, I’m Chau again. Thanks for your reply, it’s a terrible experience but i am physically okay. So far I’ve contacted the embassy and they are helping me out with my documentation but I urgently need about €900 to sort some bills and make every necessary arrangement to leave here.

I will pay back as soon as I leave here. Please let me know if you can help. ********** Oh, okay. Glad to hear you’re fine.

I’m sure the embassy will be able to lend you some money to get home, although surely it will cost more than 900 euro.

Embassies are usually good like that.

Although, I have to say, I didn’t realise Vietnam had an embassy in Cyprus. Things must be changing, eh? ********** And so the conversation continued until I agreed to send the fake Chau some money.

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Typical emails sent by people trying to get you to click It's adverts like these that are the reason you should be careful where you browse and what you click on

The Pay-Off Like a kidnapper trying to extort a ransom, this is where the scam starts to fall apart; the taking of the money. With increasing protections in place to prevent global money flows being used for deceitful purposes, to get money sent through — in this case Western Union — the receiver has to have ID and a name. Here are the details they sent me: Name: Nguyen Minh Chau Address: Binod Dahal Souzan Theodosiou, 316 Ayio Andreou Street, Limassol, Cyprus Postal Code: 3150 I will need a scanned copy of the receipt and tracking number of the transfer after transfer is made to get the money here.

It was clear to see what was going on here.

The name of the hacker — or, possibly the fake name of the hacker — was the first four words of the address. Binod Dahal Souzan Theodosiou. Whatever ID they had, whether fake or real, would contain this name. That way they could claim that the name on the actual transfer, Nguyen Minh Chau, was a mistake.

But when I started doing some research on this name, I got a little surprise.

Binod or Vinod is a Hindu name meaning happiness. It’s found in India and Nepal.

The second name, Dahal, is Nepalese.

Souzan is an Arabic girl’s name while Theodosiou is Greek or Greek Cypriot.

Whoever was doing this was most likely using fake ID as well as a fake name. Also, their English was good. So there was a story to this that was perhaps not evident in the name.

So, had I outed this person? Not at all.

But it made me feel that I had to write about

it. Being hacked or having your email or Facebook accounts compromised is like being burgled, it’s just not always treated like that. To prevent burglary you need to

up your security and not do anything stupid like leaving your doors unlocked or your windows open. In other words, don’t click on strange-looking links. — Nick Ross

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Game for a Laugh

Briefings HCMC

This month, stand-up comedy gets itself a festival

B

y the time you read this, the first stage of the Magners-sponsored Big V Comedy Competition will most likely be done and humorously dusted. On Friday Mar. 4 at deciBel, more than 15 amateur comics are getting three minutes of stage time to try

wondering about Hanoi, the Vietnamese capital is pencilled in for 2017.

The Big V But back to the competition. What makes it important is not just the chance for comedians to show what they can do, but

headline spot. At VND200,000 for early bird tickets and VND300,000 thereafter, as valuefor-money entertainment goes, this one’s a winner.

The Finale Naturally, with three pros in town and the

Lars Callieou

Martin Mor

Matthew Giffen

and earn themselves a coveted place in the finals.

That Vietnam has got so far in the amateur stand-up stakes suggests the development of a vibrant scene. And vibrant it is. In the capital, the Hanoi Comedy Collective has been bringing in the laughter for a good three years. Together with Son Tinh Lounge and CAMA ATK, as well as professional gagmeisters flown in from overseas, they’ve been transporting one of the English-speaking world’s favourite art forms to Vietnam.

Down south has also had its fair share of action. Stand-Up Saigon has been plying the amateur scene for over four years, while Saigon International Comedy has flown in pros from all four corners of the comedic globe to perform at Hard Rock Café, Cargo Bar, Phatty’s and Game On. More recently, Diana and Brian Do Shows have emerged, with nights like Virgin Jokes and Rancid Comedy. It is clear that something is brewing.

Which is where Magners Irish Cider comes in. The main sponsors of comedy throughout Europe, over the last three years they’ve brought their marketing clout to Southeast Asia to put on an annual festival.

This year, the six destinations taking part are Hong Kong, Manila, Boracay, Ho Chi Minh City, Bangkok and Singapore. If you’re

the prizes. The overall winner of the Mar. 4 show will be flown to Singapore to perform at the regional finals on Mar. 11 — the winner of this particular festival will get an all-expenses paid trip to the Edinburgh Fringe. Then the three finalists from Mar. 4 with return to perform a second time, this time at Saigon Ranger on Tuesday, Mar. 15. There they will compete for 10 million dong’s worth of prize money. The stakes are high — without Magners this would have been impossible.

“Comedy competitions are really good fun, and can start the participants out on an interesting journey,” says Northern Ireland-born comic, Martin Mor, who will be hosting the show at Saigon Ranger.

“Even if the comedians only ever do one performance, they have still experienced something that very few people have down.

As comedy is constantly evolving and changing, the new acts bring in fresh ideas and keep the more established acts on our toes.”

To add some electricity to the finals, the show will take on a gameshow feel, with Canadian comic Lars Callieou heading up an all-star panel of judges. Also on hand will be UK-born, Irish-Colombian gagster, Matthew Giffen, who will take up the day’s

promise of a festival, there will be one more show. This will take place on Wednesday, Mar. 16 at well-known expat sports bar, Phatty’s, and will see Lars, Matthew and Martin woo the crowds for a night of bellytickling, hilarity-inducing fun. Like the finals of the Big V the day before, the 200k / 300k price to see three award-winning, international comics is very reasonable.

Says festival organiser, Matt Bennett: “If you haven’t seen comedy before, then you need to try this. This quality of performers won’t be back until March 2017. And if you have been to a comedy show, then you will recognise the great value in the ticket prices.

Watching comedy will give your brain much more satisfaction than it will have listening to your mates discussing [sport] or their love lives.”

It will make you laugh your flip-flops off, too. And if you’re the heckling type, get ready for some well-polished put-downs. — Nick Ross For more information on the Magners International Comedy Festival click on facebook.com/ saigoninternationalcomedy or comedyfest.com.sg.

Tickets are available at the venues, through ticketbox. vn or by emailing nick@saigoninternationalcomedy. com. The early bird price of VND200,000 runs until Tuesday, Mar. 8

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Photos from a recent night of comedy at Son Tinh Lounge headlined by Canadian comic, Glenn Wool

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 17

Briefings

Suzette Mitchell

National

From Hai Ba Trung to Ms Huong With International Women’s Day coming up on Mar. 8, former executive director of the International Women’s Development Agency Suzette Mitchell, talks about the role of women in Vietnam

V

ietnamese legend extols such female heroes as the Trung Sisters, the 17th century military leader Bui Thi Xuan, and the teenage martyr Vo Thi Sau. But even though the role of women has always been more respected in Vietnam than in many other developing countries, their lives remain difficult.

The struggle for a better deal for women is the driving force behind organisations such as the Vietnam Women’s Union (VWU), whose influence has become considerable. Today there are many more women in senior positions, and women are more visible in the formal economy and public office. But women still juggle the triple burden of unpaid work in the home and family, on farms or in offices and in the

community.

For Vietnamese women, this productive and reproductive work often leaves little time for other community or business leadership activities, whether it means being on the local People’s Committee or joining a corporate board.

Status Vietnam, now that is has reached middle income status, perches between a culture of a Confucian belief system of the past and a modernisation which has yet to deliver equality for women.

Working on development issues for women is difficult — how do you measure change and evaluate how women’s lives have improved? It is much more than access to money, but without cash and

assets, there are limits on what can be achieved. My time in Vietnam has been marked by the women who have traversed my life.

Although I have met many formidable and admirable senior women in government and business, it is the women who have not been recognised for their work who impress me deeply as their struggles go largely undocumented.

I met Tsai when she was 16 selling Hmong bracelets on the street in Sapa. I was a frequent visitor to Sapa and would always visit Tsai and her family; I still do but instead of taking rice, cash and MSG (which I was told was a suitable gift in the 1990s), I take clothes, toys and shoes for her six children.

On my last visit in November, when I was saying farewell to her before the journey back to Hanoi, I asked her if she had ever been to Hanoi. The answer was no, and so three hours later she and her baby were on the bottom bunk of the carriage with me, my partner and my daughter, with a bag of her wares. Three days later I packed her up for the return journey, with a bag of clothes for her kids and an album of photos of her standing in front of Hanoi’s sites, including her eating ice-cream in front of Hoan Kiem Lake, the first time she had ever eaten ice-cream in her life.

Bonds

Huong has gone from being a KOTO graduate to studying on a scholarship in Australia

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Khanh, the nanny who has cared for my daughter since she was three months old (she is now eight years old), also visited Tsai’s home with her daughter — the trip was Khanh’s first time to Sapa, first train ride, and first contact with ethnic minority

Suzette Mitchell with her close friend from Sapa, Tsai

people. During this visit Khanh, her daughter Ly, my daughter Veronika (Vy) and I all went to a local school and donated notebooks, pens and school supplies to a local Hmong school.

Khanh became Tsai’s tour guide in Hanoi, xe om-ing her through town, cooking Vietnamese meals for her and dropping her at places to sell her wares, talking to children in schools and giving cooking lessons (at Hanoi Cooking Centre for the staff). Khanh and Tsai’s lives are as different if they were from different countries, but the opportunity for them to share meals in each other’s houses developed a bond that will last as one of my fondest memories.

Every single day, Vietnamese women inspire me with their strength, bravery and resilience, whether it is a garbage collector pushing a trolley of rubbish double her weight up a hill in scorching heat, or a small vendor eking out a living from a food stall.

programme she had spent six years sleeping under stairs juggling selling xoi, housecleaning, attending night school and sending money home to the countryside, which she did on two hours’ sleep a night at the age of 13.

After leaving KOTO, Huong worked at the Intercontinental Hotel in Hanoi for two years, then returned, in KOTO style (Know One Teach One), to give back and pay forward by running the reception at KOTO and Café Hideaway. She currently lives in Melbourne thorough her third scholarship after winning the Victorian International Student of the Year Award in 2013 — Higher Education and Premier Award and the Premier’s Award for International Student of the Year. She is currently completing her Masters’

in Entrepreneurship and Innovation at Swinburne University, still volunteering online for the KOTO trainee sponsorship, marketing and communications, which she has done for four years.

As I prepare to leave Hanoi and return to Australia at the end of June this year, I reflect on what I will miss most; cha ca, yoghurt coffee, the eclectic life of an expatriate, the art, the dynamism (the chaos of the streets, but not the vehicle horns) the constant surprises Hanoi life offers; but most of all, the women who help this country to be what it is in all its shapes and forms — from the Trung Sisters to Miss Huong.

Suzette Mitchell first came to Vietnam in 1998 as a volunteer for the UN, and ran the UN Women organisation in Hanoi from 2007 to 2012

Magic The stories of Vietnamese women need documentation, and I am currently working with Jimmy Pham, founder of KOTO, on documenting the stories of how girls from disadvantaged backgrounds grow into women of dignity, strength and success through the KOTO programme.

These stories are magical, and for me they represent a context way beyond economic, one in which Vietnamese support Vietnamese in a culture of care, love, community/family and life skills which never leave them.

I have just interviewed Ms Dang Thi Huong from KOTO’s ninth intake of students (2006). When she joined the

Suzette's daughter, Veronika, with Tsai

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Charity of the Month

Saigon Cyclo Challenge Preserving the cyclo and helping a good cause

T

he humble cyclo or xich lo in Vietnamese, first arrived here in the early 20th century as an adaptation of the Chinese rickshaw. Perfect for carrying goods down narrow alleyways, it wasn’t until the 1940s that they became a common form of passenger transport.

For a good few decades, cyclo drivers

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dominated the streets of Saigon and Hanoi, their curious three-wheeled contraptions as synonymous as the sleepy xe om men of today. The 1960s saw the beginning of their decline however, as Uncle Ho’s ‘Honda Revolution’ gathered speed. Even though the cyclo remained popular for daily commuters and tourists up until the late 1990s, today

they are a much rarer breed, at best a tourist artifact, a symbol of old Vietnam, and mainly reminisced about in photographs.

What’s Old is New Again The Saigon Cyclo Challenge has been paying homage to this part of the country’s history since 2001. That’s when what they call ‘Ho Chi Minh City’s Premier Charitable Corporate Team-Building Event’ was first held. Run by Saigon Children’s Charity (SCC), with the specific aim of raising money to help disadvantaged children into education, the event peaked at somewhere between 70 to 80 teams in the mid 2000s.

Anyone who was around then will tell you the events were quite legendary, attracting crowds of up to 5,000 people. Since then, according to SCC’s director Tim Mullett, the event has been scaled back, mainly due to the huge commitment in time that it took to organise for a small charity team. In 2016 and beyond, Tim would love to try and change that, and restore the event at least part of the

way to its former glory.

“The cyclo is part of the culture and we want to preserve that,” he said. “We think it’s a unique event — I’m not aware of another one anywhere in the world, so it is a one-off.

It's a terrific team-building event, and it's also an important source of income for us as well as a great way to build awareness of SCC.”

Saigon Flea Market and a kids area. It will all culminate in the Cyclo Challenge Grand Final at some time around 4.30pm. The event also incorporates a sponsor’s parade and there are multiple levels of support packages available. The one rule they do have is that in order to take part, riders must attend one of the training sessions prior to the event.

Riding a cyclo may look easy, but it isn’t. Tim assures us of that! — Jon Aspin For further information or to register your team for this year’s Saigon Cyclo Challenge, go to saigonchildren.com or email thuong@ saigonchildren.com. The event takes place on Saturday, Mar. 19 from 12pm to 6pm at Celadon City, Tan Phu (next to Aeon Mall)

Friendly Rivalry The event regularly attracts significant media attention nationally and from around the world, and Tim believes companies operating in Vietnam can benefit from that. In years gone by, he recalls multiple races split into divisions. Banks would take on other banks, construction firms would fight it out and so on. These were friendly rivalries played out in front of large crowds.

This year the day's entertainment involves not only the cyclo racing and team challenges highlighting the charity's work, but also a cheerleading competition, lucky draws, a best-in-show cylo decoration award,

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Briefings

Belinda Smith

International

Bringing Theatre to Vietnam In the second of a series of articles written by guest columnists, Belinda Smith shares her experience of trying to put on English language theatre in Ho Chi Minh City

A

nyone who has been to a live performance, be it theatre, dance or music, can vouch for the fact that it is a different experience to merely watching the same on a screen. There is something about being entertained directly by fellow human beings that has always enthralled audiences.

Theatre options in Saigon are still limited, although it is better than before. Back in 2005, if you wanted to attend a theatre performance, your options were to go abroad or accept the fact that you were in a city where English-language theatre simply did not exist.

The first theatre group to be established in HCMC was Saigon Players. It was started in 2005 by a group of thespians who wanted to create theatre and, at the same time, give back to their host country. Their main focus was, and remains, to reach out to people interested in theatre by putting on high-quality, entertaining shows, and by encouraging people to participate and develop their talents. They always give proceeds of their shows to local charities.

Over the years, Saigon Players have done a variety of shows, mostly comedies, including the Miss-ed Saigon series of sketches performed in restaurant or café venues.

As an amateur dramatics group, they play the role in the theatre scene of encouraging participation from all people with an interest

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in performing.

Guns Blazing In 2008, The International Choir and Orchestra (ICO) and Saigon Players brought the first full-scale Broadway show to a theatre in Saigon with Annie Get Your Gun. Brian Riedlinger, a trained musician and actor, was instrumental (if you’ll pardon the pun) in this trail-blazing event — but it wasn’t easy.

In addition to sourcing or making props, set and costumes, putting on a show required (and still requires) a performance license from the government which involves plenty of red tape and hoops to jump through.

It was on the back of the second of these ICO shows, A Christmas Carol, that Dragonfly Theatre Company was born.

Jaime Zuniga, Aaron Toronto and Brian were passionate about the need for Saigon to have professional-quality, English-language theatre not only for the expatriate community but also for English-speaking Vietnamese.

They joined forces to bring Oscar Wilde’s The Importance of Being Earnest to the city and it was received by an audience who appeared to be in the grip of a cultural drought. The shows were mostly sold out. Dragonfly also reached out to school groups by providing special matinée shows where students could watch the show and then interview the actors both in and out of character.

Since then, the theatre scene has grown

and diversified. With a change in committee, Saigon Players started doing more serious shows; Dragonfly produced plays that were, while sometimes less well-known and intellectually challenging, artistically very satisfying and well received, and SocioMuso (SYMT) arrived to fill the gap in youth theatre.

The director of SocioMuso, Matthew Gardener, states on their website that the group is “dedicated to harnessing the talent of those children who have a particular passion for the arts, but all children benefit from participating. They can develop personal and professional skills which can be used in their lives, regardless of their chosen career.”

Wider Angle But for all the theatre groups in Saigon, putting on a production has many challenges.

Finding a venue is the first and biggest difficulty. To perform officially, for example in one of the many theatres around the city, requires a performance license, taxes, translated scripts and lengthy background checks. This takes significant time and money, taking the cost of a production higher.

Sourcing props, lighting and set would seem simple in a country that can make anything, but every piece has to be individually found, described, designed or made. There are no costumiers or Amazon in Vietnam. I remember spending hours

Bottom left and right: The cast of Dangerous Liaisons Bottom centre: Lan Phuong and Belinda in The Importance of Being Earnest Top Right and LeftLeft: David Delves and Leon Brown in Lawrence and Holloman Centre: Aaron Toronto and Belinda in Dangerous Liaison

trying to get Elizabethan dresses made for Dangerous Liaisons (learning the Vietnamese for “Wider! Wider!” along the way). Storing all these items is another issue. Members of Saigon Players and Dragonfly Theatre have all been custodians of various theatre items with Aaron Toronto housing the fuselage of the plane from The Little Prince on his balcony for 6 months.

Getting the word out to people and growing and maintaining an audience is also a challenge in a city alive with entertainment options and with a transient pool of expats who may or may not be interested in theatre.

Every performance gets a little bit easier; theatre groups here are not afraid to try new things, to bring new ideas, and are constantly grateful that audiences trust us to choose plays that we think will entertain them. But

why do we do it?

We believe that theatre transcends everyday concerns about money, career and business, and deliberately challenges people with new ways of thinking. Theatre performances should be able to reach out to the soul of an audience member and elicit emotion on many levels. This is why the people involved in the theatre scene will devote their time, effort, energy and money to overcome the challenges of putting a show on. To us, it is worth it to reach out to you.

Dragonfly is the work of a number of people including Jaime Zúñiga, Aaron Toronto and Brian Riedlinger. The company prides itself on using professionally trained actors such as Aaron Toronto, Ryan Burkwood, David Delves, Leon Bown and the famous Vietnamese actress Lan Phuong

Theatre in Vietnam For more info on the various theatre options in Vietnam, click on the following links:

D RAGONFLY T HEATRE C OMPANY

facebook.com/dragonflyvietnam

S AIGON P LAYERS

saigonplayers.com

S OCIO M USO

sociomuso.com And in Hanoi…

H ANOI I NTERNATIONAL T HEATRE S OCIETY hitshanoi.com

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Briefings

Students at ISHCMC - American Academy

National

And the Answer is? ...English With the ASEAN economic community now in full flow, English has become more important than ever

“

ISHCMC — American Academy student Jack received a VND1.34 billion scholarship to study in the US

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[When I came to the school] I could just speak a little English,” says Tran Khanh Nguyen, a Year 12 Student at ISHCMC — American Academy.

“But it was just a small amount, some common sentences. So, ‘How are you?’ and ‘What’s Your Name?’ That’s it.”

Five years later and Nguyen, also known as Jack, is his own success story. He achieved above U.S. grade level English in his latest MAP® standardized tests and has just been awarded a US$60,000 (VND1.34 billion) scholarship to study at the Florida Institute of Technology.

With the inauguration of the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) at the end of 2015, Jack and his contemporaries may well play an important role in the future of not just Vietnam but ASEAN and further afield. In 2014, AEC was collectively the third-largest economy in Asia and the seventh largest in the world. And in the ASEAN Charter of 2009 it was decreed that, “the working language of ASEAN

shall be English.”

This has many implications for Vietnam — the key one is communication. While countries such as Singapore and the Philippines have English installed in their DNA, places like Vietnam do not. So how does this country rise to the challenge?

Immersion “Unless kids study English year in and year out from a young age,” says Patrick, a language teacher working in Ho Chi Minh City, “they will never quite get the grasp on the language they require. Studying twice or three times a week at a private language school is beneficial, but what they need is the environment, immersion.”

Indeed, without immersion, it’s difficult to get a fluent grasp of not just English, but any language.

The answer, naturally, is for Vietnamese families to send their kids to study at a school that not only teaches all their lessons in English, but has an

ISSP supports students from over 20 nationalities with an extensive English as an Additional Language (EAL) Program

English-speaking culture at the school.

One such institution is International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP). Based just off Nguyen Huu Canh in the Binh Thanh area of Ho Chi Minh City, 65 percent of the students are Vietnamese out of the 20 nationalities represented at this American elementary school for children aged 18 months to 11 years old.

Using MAP® Testing to measure academic progress, the school can show that over 60 percent of their students are achieving above grade level English. This is compared to US standards.

Add to this library specialist lessons and an English as an Additional Language (EAL) Program for non-native speakers, and ISSP students see tremendous growth in their English skills. “[Before I was a curriculum coordinator] I was a teacher here for two years,” says James Peter Hardy, ISSP curriculum coordinator. “One girl came into the first grade [who couldn’t speak a word], and by

the end of the first year she was on level with English.”

At ISHCMC — American Academy, Jack has the same experience. At school, he says, he speaks English with his Vietnamese friends. Like the students at ISSP, Jack’s use of his second language is affected by the culture of where he studies.

“The culture of any school is critical,” says ISSP’s James, “not just in terms of speaking English, but in terms of respecting each other, responsibility and how we’re all life-long learners at the same time. We set a level of expectation that we want the students to follow, and although it’s not a mandatory rule, they want to speak English. It’s great!”

Opening Doors So, will Vietnam rise to the challenge of the ASEAN Economic Community? On the communication front, over time it certainly will. One great advantage Vietnam has is a Confucian love of learning allied to a fierce

desire to better oneself. Already, hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese speak English to a fairly high level, and the likes of Jack and his peers are following closely in their footsteps.

Yet being a fluent English speaker doesn’t just give Jack future access to the benefits of being part of ASEAN. It also gives him access to living and studying in the US. “If I’d stayed at public school, I think it would have been very hard [to study in America in the future]. The only thing they teach you in a public school is the language, the sentences, the grammar, but they don’t actually tell you how to speak, how you pronounce words. It’s really hard to fit into American society.” — Nick Ross For more info on ISHCMC — American Academy, register for their Apr. 16 Open House at aavn.edu.vn. To learn more about International Saigon Pearl, register for their Mar. 23 Open House at issp.edu.vn

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 25

Briefings National

The Ta Lai Trophy Vietnam’s one and only jungle race returns on Apr. 16

I

magine mountain biking 55km along jungle tracks before embarking on a 12km run. If that’s not enough, follow this test of endurance with two hours worth of kayaking and swimming. That is the Extreme category in the Ta Lai Trophy, a wilderness adventure race that takes competitors working in teams of two through the mountains, farmland and deep jungle of Cat Tien National Park, three hours north of Saigon.

Formerly the Madagui Trophy — the competition was rebranded in 2014 — the Ta Lai Trophy is now entering its third year, and each time round is continuing to grow.

The first edition in 2014 attracted 50 racers, while last year 100 people took part, with the winning pair, Jean-Baptiste Campion and Joachim Poirier, finishing the Extreme race in six hours.

With two categories of adult racing available — competitors can also take the four-hour Challenge option — co-event organiser George Abraham of Ta Lai

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Longhouse is expecting this year’s event to build on the success of the last two years.

“Each year we increase the number of racers, so I hope we can get around 150 racers for the combined categories,” he says.

“We also have a new Gibbons race course for children aged between seven to 12 years old on the Saturday, so it will be great to see the future generations getting involved and learning about nature.”

Not Three But Four With so many endurance races sprouting up in Vietnam, George faces a question. Why should potential competitors go for the Ta Lai Trophy rather than the likes of Ironman or the Vietnam Mountain Challenge? George sees the competition among events as positive.

“It’s great that in the last four to five years so many different races are opening up,” he says. “I hope it continues, as it only benefits us and the racing community by attracting more people into competing.”

Yet, as he is also quick to point out, the Ta Lai Trophy is a quadrathlon. The only four-discipline competition of its kind in Vietnam, kayaking is added to the standard swimming, running and cycling of a triathlon. In addition, competitors have to tackle the course in pairs. Not only does this set the race in Nam Cat Tien apart from its contemporaries, but it also has the magic and mystique of the Vietnamese jungle as its backdrop.

“It’s such a big challenge on your body and mind racing in the jungles, and is so different to running in the city or biking on concrete roads,” he says. “The temperature and humidity can really eat away at your energy, and the fact you need to be looking not only in front of you but high and low and all around when you’re ducking and diving through the jungle, means you use all your muscles. You also need to keep an eye out for the [route] markings and your teammate. So concentration needs to be high throughout.”

Drawing in a mix of experienced racers,

the kind of people who travel all over Asia just to compete, as well as people who “just want an adventure, to explore the park and meet similar, like-minded people”, the race weekend finishes off with a party and a BBQ. The event is also an opportunity for George and his colleagues to increase environmental awareness about the jungle and to help support the work that Ta Lai Longhouse is doing with the local communities around Ta Lai and Cat Tien.

Adds George: “Cat Tien is still a bit of a mystery to many expats and tourists alike, so having the chance to come and explore the park and to do so with friends and family is really attractive.”

For more information on the Ta Lai Trophy or to get involved, click on talai-adventure.vn or email info@talai-adventure.vn. Registration costs VND3.8 million per person (VND3.5 million before Mar. 15) and includes meals, accommodation, transportation and participant fee. The kids ‘Gibbon’ package is free of charge for every two parents who participate in the race

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Sports Digest

Aussie, Aussie, Aussie Australian Rules Football is gaining strength in Vietnam. This year is set to be another big one. Words by Harry Hodge

W

ith the Year of the Monkey ahead, there will be no monkey business for Vietnam’s Aussie Rules footballers, with the return of an annual springtime event and a high-profile tournament this autumn.

This year will see the Swans make their annual ANZAC Day clash at the Lord Mayor’s Oval (a.k.a. the greyhound track) in Vung Tau on Saturday, Apr. 23, where they face the Jakarta Bintangs.

The Swans’ Anzac Friendship Game continues to grow in stature each year, with the 2016 game to be no exception. Record crowds are expected owing to the 50th Anniversary year of the Battle of Long Tan, a battle of great significance for Australian troops during the war.

The Bintangs and Swans have a colourful rivalry, which stretches back to March 2006

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when the Bintangs first travelled to Vietnam for a game against the Hanoi Swans at the United Nations International School (UNIS).

This was the Swans’ first recorded win, defeating the Bintangs 6-7 (43) to 2-4 (16).

“We have built a great rivalry with the ‘tangs over the years with some classic encounters at recent AFL Asian Championships. This year’s game should be no different,” said Vietnam Swans national president Grant Keys.

This year’s Friendship game and ANZAC Day will include the annual McMillan dinner, with proceeds helping support the club and its associated charities, notably Swim Vietnam.

The big news for the club is the scheduling of the Asian Championships in Ho Chi Minh City on Oct. 15 at the RMIT Campus in District 7. Teams will be 12

players a side and will include the first women’s AFL side made up of Viet Celts Ladies and Saigon Ladies Gaels players.

They will be teaming up in a proposed Vietnam vs. “world” players. Previous incarnations of the tournament have taken place as far afield as Thailand and the Philippines and elsewhere.

“We are expecting over 400 competitors to RMIT Saigon, which will include two female teams for the first ever women’s Aussie Rules international in Asia,” Keys said. “The Swans have made the semi-finals three times at previous Asian Champs, but have never cracked the big one.

“It’s going to be a massive weekend of footy with a big after-game party also being planned.”

For further information on these events, visit vietnamswans.com

Thang to Take Over National Team Coach Reins Former national team defender Nguyen Huu Thang signed a two-year contract with the Vietnam Football Federation last month, following the departure of Japanese manager Toshiya Miura, writes Tuoi Tre. Thang, who was on the national team from 1996 to 2002, is rumoured to be getting at least VND100 million (US$4,464) in monthly salary to take over the position, but the VFF has said contract regulations mean his salary will not be revealed to the media.

Thang recently coached Song Lam Nghe An, playing in the V-League 1. Thang won the silver medal in the Southeast Asian Games in 1995 as part of the national team.

He began his coaching career in 2005, three years after retiring as a player. He won the V-League 1 in 2011, becoming one of the only three Vietnamese citizens to win the title as both player and coach.

Vietnam Preparing Olympic Squad Vietnam expects to send 15 athletes to the 2016 Summer Olympic Games in Brazil to compete in swimming, shooting, weightlifting and other disciplines, according to the National Administration of Sports and Physical Training as reported by Thanh Nien.

Six athletes have already qualified for the event, including swimmer Anh Vien, shooters Quoc Cuong and Xuan Vinh and three weightlifters.

Around nine more athletes are expected to qualify for the Olympics in the coming months, Phan said.

These athletes are Quach Thi Lan and Quach Cong Lich in track and field, Hoang Quy Phuoc in swimming, Nguyen Tien Minh and Vu Thi Trang in badminton and others in taekwondo, wrestling, judo, shooting and women’s weightlifting.

Vietnam is investing more than VND48 billion (US$2.1 million) in training its athletes for the Olympics, which will be held from Aug. 5 to Aug. 21 in Rio de Janeiro.

Saigon Heat Headed to Playoffs The Saigon Heat completed the play-off bracket for the 2016

season of the ASEAN Basketball League (ABL) with an 84-80 victory over the Pilipinas MX3 Kings at the Malolos Sports and Convention Center in Malolos, Bulacan, earlier in February according to the ABL website.

Lenny Daniel dominated the game for the Heat with 29 points, 16 rebounds and 3 assists, playing all 40 minutes and shooting 14 of 21 from the field. Moses Morgan added 22 points and 5 rebounds while Paul Williams and David Arnold added 13 points apiece.

Saigon found it hard to shake off the pesky Kings in the first half. Pilipinas MX3 actually held the lead for much of the second quarter but a strong finish by the Heat punctuated by a buzzerbeating triple from Morgan gave the visitors a 48-41 advantage heading into the break. The Heat avenged their last loss to the Kings by eliminating them officially from the race for the top four.

Hanoi T&T Bounced from AFC Champions League Vietnamese league club Hanoi T&T have bowed out of the 2016 AFC Champions League after suffering an emphatic defeat against a Korean side in an away game last month, according to Tuoi Tre. Taking on heavyweights Pohang Steelers at Pohang Steel Yard, the Vietnamese visitors left stars Pham Van Quyet and Pham Thanh Luong at home, bringing to South Korea only 16 players in their play-off game against the hosts.

The hosts opened the scoring in the 35th minute, as a pass from midfield found Dong Woon Sim, who dashed to lob the ball over Vietnamese keeper Tran Anh Duc. Pohang Steelers netted two more goals in the second half, with Dong scoring a brace in the 62nd and 84th minutes, completing his hat trick. The final score was 3-0.

Pohang Steelers advance to the group stage of the 2016 AFC Champions League, where they will encounter defending champions tes Guangzhou upda Evergrande Sendout yourp or ab g grou @ of China, in ry 2007 winners sportnt to har .com m e ev vietna Urawa Reds word of Japan and Australia’s Sydney FC.

PHOTOS BY ROB BREWER

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St. Paddy’s Day, underground DJs, a comedy festival and a bouldering championship.

A great month for anyone to likes to get out and about in Saigon

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The Observatory

Work by Doan Xuan Tang. He will be exhibiting this month at Vin Gallery

Amateur comedians will fight it out for bragging rights at the Big V Comedy Competition

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Francis Inferno Orchestra plays at Observatory on Mar. 18

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Observatory favourite, San Soda, returns on Mar. 12

5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Throughout March The Observatory is rolling out its usual impressive collection of events this March, bringing cutting-edge artists from across the world to our fair city. Get your calendar app ready, unlimber your thumbs, and get ready to make dates with dance.

On Friday, Mar. 11, Heartbeat presents Oliver Deutschmann, one of many artists busting out crazy Euromusik in Berlin’s techno Renaissance. Fresh from appearing in clubs like Berghain and Tresor, Deutschmann will be bringing his innovative techno wizardry to the Observatory.

The show starts at 10pm, and is free until 11pm. From 11pm onward, entry costs VND150,000.

On Saturday, Mar. 12, the party continues with international performer San Soda. A long-time Observatory favourite and one of the first international musical artists to drop beats there, San Soda is returning to Ho Chi Minh City for his third visit.

The show starts at 10pm, and is free until 11pm. From 11pm onward, entry costs VND150,000.

On Friday, Mar. 18, Australian musician Francis Inferno Orchestra returns to the Observatory bringing

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his globally-respected house and techno musical stylings. With a name like that, FIO is sure to set the Observatory ablaze musically.

The show starts at 10pm, and is free until 11pm. From 11pm onward, entry costs VND150,000.

On Saturday, Mar. 19, the Goethe Institut presents German musical veteran Gudrun Gut. A professional musician since 1979, Gut began as a punk drummer before turning to the turntables. Gut explores themes of nostalgia and human obscurity, and is sure to elevate your mind and move your feet.

To learn more about these and other upcoming events at the Observatory, webify them at facebook.com/ theobservatoryhcmc and be sure to hit the Like button while you’re there

Tho Cam II Vin Gallery, Q2 Mar. 4 to Mar. 26 Doan Xuan Tang’s latest exhibition, Tho Cam II, distills the romance and mystery of Vietnam’s mountainous region and its people. The streaked lines look like veils through which eyes peer dispassionately, recalling his rain-lashed first visit.

“I particularly love to paint the eyes because they reflect the soul inside — happy, sad or suffering,” he says.

Refusing to romanticise a region whose beauty belies hardships, the lines remind us that cultures can’t be consumed, and inevitably elude our true understanding. Physical appearance is just one facet of the complexity of the human condition.

Tang adds: “Beauty fades, but its impression is permanent.”

The exhibition is free of charge and is open 8.30am to 5.30pm, Monday to Saturday. Vin Gallery is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC. Check out vingallery.com for more info

Big V Comedy Competition Mar. 4 and Mar. 15 Decibel, Q3 (Mar. 4) and Saigon Ranger, Q1 (Mar.14) Do you have what it takes to make a room full of strangers laugh? Think you could match it with the pros? If so, you should be entering this years’ Big V Comedy Competition.

Kicking off on Friday, Mar. 4 at deciBel, this is the night for amateur stand-ups living in Vietnam to hit the stage and give it their all. Hosted by local comic Tat Lay, each aspiring comedian will get three minutes on stage to strut their gag-filled stuff.

A panel of judges will pick out the top three, of whom the winner will be flown to Singapore to compete in the regional finals on Friday, Mar. 11. All three finalists will then return

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on Tuesday Mar. 15 to perform at Saigon Ranger for the Vietnam finals. Hosted by Northern Irish stand-up Martin Mor, the biggest beard in comedy, an all-star, game show-style panel will also be put together headed up by Canadian comic, Lars Callieou. With VND10 million worth of prize money also at stake, expect this to be a heated and very amusing affair.

The Big V Comedy Competition will kick off at deciBel (79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, HCMC) on Friday, Mar. 4 at 8pm. The entrance surcharge is VND100,000 and payment is on the door. The finals at Saigon Ranger (5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC) also kick off at 8pm and entrance is VND200,000 for early birds and VND300,000 after Mar. 9. To book tickets email nick@ saigoninternationalcomedy.com or click on ticketbox.vn

Late Night Sessions Vin Space, Q7 Mar. 8 to Apr. 26

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Vin Space’s Studio 7 is launching a new series of late night art sessions on Tuesday evenings. Bringing together creative people of all backgrounds to learn in a social and relaxed atmosphere, they will

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The Kiwis are back in force this month with the latest rendition of their annual festival

The three headliners at the Magners International Comedy Festival, Martin Mor, Matthew Giffen and Lars Calleiou

Yes, we can confirm it’s true. Guinness will be served on St. Paddy’s Day at Dublin Gate

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be introducing a range of art practices including design, print, sculpture and animation. Drop by, drink a few beers and bring your friends. This crowd is open to all backgrounds and skill levels.

For more information email info@ vin-space.com or call 0907 729846.

VinSpace is at S24-1, Le Van Thiem, Q7, HCMC

New Zealand Food and Wine Festival RMIT University, Q7 Mar. 12 The New Zealand Wine and Food Festival will return to RMIT University on Saturday, Mar. 12.

Featuring imported New Zealand wines, and Kiwi-style food from some of the city’s leading hotels, this evening is a chance to enjoy New Zealand’s awardwinning produce while relaxing on the lawn and listening to live music.

In 2015 the Festival donated over VND100 million to the Ba Chieu Home for Girls, enough to provide education and a safe environment for 26 girls for one year. In 2016 the Festival will again support Ba Chieu, but will also donate funds to KOTO to help underprivileged kids train in hospitality.

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For more information contact eatdrinkgive2016@gmail. com or click on facebook.com/ wineandfoodfestivalnewzealandhcmc

Magners International Comedy Festival Saigon Ranger, Q1 and Phatty’s, Q1 Mar. 15 and Mar. 16 If you like to laugh, March is going to be a good month for you. That’s because Magners is bringing two nights of quality international comedy to Ho Chi Minh City.

Incorporating the Big V Comedy competition, where locals will strut their stuff with the pros, and featuring Irish comedian and former circus performer Martin Mor as host, both nights promise to be classic. Canadian Lars Callieou will also perform on both nights, a man who has toured with the likes of Joan Rivers and Jeff Foxworthy and boasts a TV and radio resume longer than most people’s arms.

Headlining the whole thing will be the star of BBC 3’s hit show The Fear in the UK, Colombian Irish UK comic Matthew Giffen. Word has it he was brought up on a diet of cocaine and potatoes, so expect his act to be explosive. See you there!

Both shows cost VND200,000 before Mar. 8 and VND300,000 thereafter.

For more info, go to facebook.com/ saigoninternationalcomedy. For ticketing click on ticketbox.vn or email nick@saigoninternationalcomedy.com.

Saigon Ranger is at 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC. Phatty’s is at 46-48 Ton That Tung, Q1

St. Patrick’s Day Craic Dublin Gate, Q1 Thursday. Mar. 17 The Irish Embassy and the Irish Business Association of Vietnam (IBAV) are teaming up to celebrate St. Paddy’s Day in a big way this year, with two events playing themselves out over the St Patrick’s Day weekend in Ho Chi Minh City.

The first is a traditional, pubhosted craic and will take place on St Patricks Day itself (Mar. 17) at The Dublin Gate. Expect plenty of Guinness, Irish food, music and a great atmosphere. With decorations turning The Gate into a real place of celebration, this will be an event not to be missed. The pub is managed by an Irish-Australian, a combination sure to get the right spirit going on the night.

Dublin Gate Irish Pub is at 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1, HCMC. The place will be packed, so get there early

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ToDo list HCMC

St Patrick’s Day Festival

St. Patrick’s Day is here! Time to paint the town green

Canvas and Wine returns this month with a night of learning to make collages

Bouldering gets itself a tournament

After its first sexy outing at the Equatorial, Sundaze is back for edition two

Vietnam’s only jungle challenge, the Ta Lai Trophy, returns in April

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Saigon Outcast, Q2 Saturday, Mar. 19 Organised by the IBAV (Irish Business Association Vietnam), the local Irish Community and with support from the Embassy of Ireland in Vietnam, all them Irish folks out there and anyone who loves to get into the Gaelic spirit finally have a festival to celebrate the life of St. Paddy.

Featuring local band, Whiskey in a Jar, and All-Ireland Flute, Concertina, Fiddle and Irish Dance Champions Cian Kearns, Niamh O’Sullivan, Claire Walsh and Mark Nestor, who will be flying in from Ireland specially for the festivities, this is going to be one hell of a bash.

Irish-themed food will be on sale alongside traditional Irish drinks.

Face painting, a bouncy castle, an open mic and ‘best dressed in green’ competitions will be held. And with the addition of a raffle with proceeds going to the Christina Noble Children’s Foundation in

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Vietnam, here is your chance to paint Saigon green.

The festival will run from 3pm to 10pm and is at Saigon Outcast, 188 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Entrance is free and the event is supported and sponsored by Purcells, Glandore Systems, Dublin Gate Irish Pub, Jameson, Magners Irish Cider, Tiger beer, The Australian International School Vietnam, Al Fresco’s Restaurants, Saigon Outcast, James Galvin, GAA and Word Vietnam.

Entrance is free of charge

The Roaring 20s InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Q1 Saturday, Mar. 19 The Business Group of Vietnam (BBGV) is turning 20, and to celebrate, the networking and business outfit will be putting on a Roaring 1920s bash at the InterCon. Top-end cuisine, lots of entertainment and a dancing competition will be part of the affair, as will a 1920s dress code

and a prize draw that includes the opportunity to win flights to Europe or accommodation vouchers in hotels and resorts.

Tickets cost VND2.5 million per person. To book your space contact Nga on nga.nguyen@bbgv.org or (08) 3829 8430 Ext. 107

Canvas & Wine Vin Space, Q7 Thursday, Mar. 24 Whether it’s mosaic, montage or abstract, the skill of collage literally brings the best bits of art together!

That’s why Vin Space wants you to get cutting, swapping, sticking, gluing and drinking as they help you get familiar with this massively underrated medium. Go with a friend and come back with your very own ‘masterpiece’. Sounds like a great (school) night out.

Vin Space is at S24-1, Le Van Thiem, Q7. The evening costs VND874,000 with two glasses of wine and all materials included. For groups of four the price is VND2,990,000. Teachers get a 20 percent discount

Saigon Bouldering Cup Vertical Academy, Q2 Saturday, Mar. 26 District 2 is fast becoming a hub for all forms of climbing (we’re not just talking about social ladders), and leading the way have been the guys and girls at Vertical Academy.

To celebrate everyone’s new favourite form of fitness, they’ve inaugurated the first ever Saigon Bouldering Cup. Open to all-comers the event features four categories — Under 17, Novice and Intermediate and Open — and will be set by special guest route setters Felicia Lim and Gavin Yong from the Singaporean Mountaineering Federation. In addition there will food and drink available, live music, capoeira and aerial dance demonstrations. Sounds like something for everyone, especially if you like getting high once in a while.

To find out more go to facebook. com/vertical.academy.vn Individual

registration costs VND250,000.

Teams of three cost VND750,000 and all registrants get a free t-shirt and the necessary safety training.

Entrance is free for all spectators.

Sundaze

7777 or click on facebook.com/ sundaze.asia. The Hotel Equatorial is at 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, HCMC

Ta Lai Trophy

Hotel Equatorial, Q5 Sunday, Mar. 27

Cat Tien National Park, Dong Nai Apr. 16 to Apr. 17

It’s getting a little bit like Vegas at the Equatorial Hotel’s next Sundaze party. Groove out to Eskerod’s beats, and get down to the hot models serving cold booze. Compete in the bikini contest and check out the fashion show, complete with prizes.

Even better. If you and a mob of your friends get one of the poolside rooms, which house up to 10 guests, you’ll get a free bottle of spirit complete with mixers.

So come to the Hotel Equatorial and get Sundazed.

The party starts — when else? — at high noon.

For more information, contact the Hotel Equatorial on (08) 3839

Adrenaline junkies, feeling left out? You’re in luck, because it’s Ta Lai Trophy time, a two-day race through the lush jungles and scenic farmland of Cat Tien National Park. With two difficulty levels and a race designed especially for kids ages seven to 12, it’s perfect for the whole fit, fun-loving family.

So register your team of two for a three to eight-hour race, running, biking, swimming and kayaking your way to victory.

Registration costs VND3.8 million per person, and includes accommodation, meals and transportation.

Get more information at talaiadventure.vn

IN

Moet & Chandon, Product of France, Alcohol Content 12%

Just HCMC

Japanese pizzerias, gastrolounges, 20-year anniversaries and new top-end resorts

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Time Bistro bring traditional Vietnamese cuisine to Nguyen Hue

The newly renovated The Dublin Gate claims it’s the only Irish bar in Saigon

The recently opened Elixir just oozes style

Novotel Phu Quoc is the latest quality resort to open on the island

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Fancy some Canadian beef? Canada Steakhouse imports it all the way from Alberta

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Jeremy Stein from Rainbow Divers has been operating his dive school in Vietnam for two decades

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Napoli’s is bringing Japanese-style pizza and service to the heart of Saigon

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Pizzeria Bar Napoli’s Everyone loves a good pizza, right?

Well, this is what Japanese restaurant chain Napoli’s have in mind with the Mar. 1 opening of their second Ho Chi Minh City restaurant on Dong Du. With a prolific record of 68 outlets opened in Japan in the space of just four years, and with Napoli’s Pizza and Café already wooing the punters on Ly Tu Trong, the chain has garnered itself a well-deserved reputation for fast, tasty Italian pizza at reasonable prices.

Open for both lunch and dinner, the eatery focuses on the mighty pizza, but also serves up the full range of Italian fare. Made with imported ingredients from Italy, 12 artisan pizzas are on the menu including anything from the Margherita and Napoletana through to the Teriyaki Chicken and Salsiccia.

These are complemented by fresh salads, pasta, gratin and doria, 14 types of tapas and desserts.

Any Italian needs to have a good drinks menu, and at Napoli’s there are more than 30 wines by the bottle and a number by the glass. The drinks selection also comes with over 100 cocktails starting at VND65,000 a go. Considering the downtown location, this is a bargain.

Pizzeria Bar Napoli’s is open daily from 11am to 1am and is at 54 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3822 8800. For

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further info click on napolisvietnam.com.

To celebrate International Women’s Day, Napoli’s is offering one free drink and one free dessert for every female customer between Tuesday, Mar. 8 and Sunday, Mar. 13.

Rainbow Divers Celebrates 20 Years in Vietnam Rainbow Divers is celebrating two decades of operation in Vietnam, confirming it as the longest established PADI Dive centre in the country.

The anniversary was marked by moving their HQ in Nha Trang to new, bigger premises at 19 Biet Thu. Owner and founder of Rainbow Divers, Englishman Jeremy Stein, has been awarded Platinum Course Director status in recognition of his continued development of PADI and the dive industry throughout the country. He is the only Platinum Course Director in Vietnam and hosts the only dive centre in the country to 100% support the environment through Project AWARE. Every dive course taught includes an automatic contribution to help save our delicate underwater environment.

You can check out the best places to dive and do the full range of PADI courses in Vietnam at divevietnam. com or by emailing Jeremy directly at jezlifetour@hotmail.com

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

Canada Steakhouse Into Alberta beef and don’t know where to go?

Opened in late December, the three-floor Canada Steakhouse is offering a selection of Alberta AAA beef with different styles of cooking and sauces (starting from VND300,000 for a 150 gram cut).

In order to satisfy various types of guest, there are also chicken, seafood and vegetarian dishes on the menu cooked up in a range of styles.

While the first and second floor look cozy and warm with black painted walls and bricks accompanied by leather chairs and couches, the top floor is an airy garden with rows of hanging rosemary and other herbs. A good venue for solo diners as well as groups.

Canada Steakhouse is at 219C Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, HCMC

Time Bistro Situated on the second floor of the building next to Fahasa on Nguyen Hue, Time Bistro is a restaurant serving up traditional Vietnamese fare.

Decorated with paintings of Notre Dame Cathedral and colonial era houses, and equipped with wooden chairs and tables, Time Bistro exudes an intimate and cozy ambience. The

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PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER

menu encompasses a full range of Vietnamese cuisine, serving up anything from stir-fried glory morning with garlic to spring rolls or fried rice with seafood and the local delicacy, bird’s nest soup.

Located at 44 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC, Time Bistro is offering 50 percent discount deals for Word readers who show this article when dining at the restaurant

The Dublin Gate A makeover of the former Bernie’s Irish Bar, according to man behind the scenes, Bernie, the reason for rebranding Dublin Gate is to make the bar more Irish.

Painted in traditional Irish green, the two-level venue has been renovated all over with separate sections for smokers and nonsmokers. The smoking section is also the area for anyone who wants to catch up on a spot of pool, darts or watch the televised sports.

With an open kitchen upstairs, The Dublin Gate serves up a wide range of food (starting from VND70,000), with anything from Irish classics and western fare through to Vietnamese staples. The drink list includes coffee, tea, fruit juice, beer and spirits, and you can even grab yourself a pint of Guinness for VND140,000.

The Dublin Gate is at 19 Thai

Van Lung, Q1, HCMC. Visit thedublingateirishpub.com for info about their events and their happy hour

Elixir Gastrolounge Lying on the Pasteur side of the Rex Hotel, Elixir is a restobar that takes its décor seriously. Designed with a contemporary Indochine flavour, dark polished woods, French drapes and cigar drawers complete the formula.

Focusing on contemporary dining, the cuisine encompasses anything from steak (VND750,000 for a grilled tenderloin) and chicken (VND120,000 for chicken teriyaki) to sushi and sashimi (VND170,000 for a spicy albacore sashimi with crispy onion). All cocktails are created by a bartender from Singapore and priced at VND180,000. There are also DJing events at weekends and Ladies’ Nights every Wednesday.

Elixir is at 146 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC and runs a daily 50-percent-off-alldrinks happy hour from 4pm to 9pm

Novotel Phu Quoc In January, hotel management chain, AccorHotels, opened their third resort on Phu Quoc Island off the south coast of Vietnam.

Located on one of the island’s most beautiful white-sand beaches,

Novotel Phu Quoc combines natural beauty, serenity and contemporary décor to provide, what the resort describes as “an unforgettable experience with views of turquoise waters, lush vegetation and a wide-range of hotel amenities, ecotourism activities and attractions for guests of all ages”.

Boasting 366 rooms, including 120 suites and villas, each accommodation type features a sofa bed, a balcony or terrace and 42 inch LCD TVs, while 20 of the villas come with private pools. A spa, two restaurants and three bars, as well as a state-of-the-art fitness centre, two tennis courts, an outdoor swimming pool, a separate kids pool, a kids club and 650 sqm of flexible meeting and event space make up the mix.

To celebrate its opening, the resort is offering special daily rates until 30 April 2016 starting from VND1,850,000++ for a superior room inclusive of breakfast for two adults. Two children (under 16) staying in the same room as their parents can eat breakfast and utilise existing bedding at no additional charge.

Novotel Phu Quoc Resort is located at Duong Bao Hamlet, Duong Bao Commune, Phu Quoc, 8km from the airport. For general information or reservations, please visit accorhotels. com/9770 or call 077 626 0999

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PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER

ToDo

listHanoi Art exhibitions, St. Patrick’s Day, the AmCham Gala, a DJ called San Soda and Gout de France.

March in Hanoi is jam-packed

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6. Gout de France returns on Mar. 21 with the participation of more than two dozen restaurant in Vietnam

5. Belgian-born San Soda will be playing at ATK on Mar. 18

4. UK-based, award-winning band Hipster will be playing at the St. Patrick Rocks Concert on Mar. 18

Think As You Do by Dinh Thi Tham Poong

Work by Do Tuan Anh documenting the new migrant influx to Europe

3. The expected set-up at the Goethe-Institut sponsored show, Inventions from Germany

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Work by Duong Thy Duong at this month’s Goethe-Institut exhibition, Migration and Identity

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Migration and Identity Goethe-Institut, Ba Dinh Until Mar. 13 The Goethe Institute is holding an exhibition documenting the new migrant influx to Europe, as seen by two Vietnamese artists resident in Germany.

The artists Do Tuan Anh, Duong Thuy Duong were born in Vietnam and have lived in Germany for several years. Their art focuses on questions concerning life with and between two cultures, addressing issues of migration and identity.

Goethe-Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Entry is free

PHOTO BY DAVID AUSSERHOFER

Museum, Fukuoka Asean Art Museum, Fukuoka, Japan, the Rupertinum Museum der Moderne Salzburg, Austria and elsewhere.

Entitled The Destination Point of an Oblique Line, according to the gallery, Poong’s new works are the result of the evolution of the artist’s thinking about new ways of seeing. Comprised of many mediums, the collection includes oil on canvas, ceramic fragments held by embroidery and natural bamboo baskets.

Art Vietnam Gallery is at 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. For more info click on artvietnamgallery.com

to illustrate. There are interactive elements plus films and audio stations. The exhibition is bilingual in German and Vietnamese. The exhibit texts are available in English as well.

Admission to the exhibition is free of charge and is from 9am to 6pm daily.

VDZ/DAAD (Truong Dai Hoc Bach Khoa Hanoi) is at 1 Dai Co Viet, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

Inventions from Germany

Hanoi will see two major events to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, both of which are being presented by Magners Cider.

On Mar. 18 at 5.30pm, the American Club will host the St. Patrick Rocks Concert featuring Hipster, a UK-based band and recipient of the Alive Network’s 2015 Artist of the Year Award. There will also be a host of Vietnambased bands in support. Expect the event to be a great night out

The Destination Point of an Oblique Line

VDZ/DAAD, Hai Ba Trung Mar. 2 to Mar. 8

Art Vietnam Gallery, Hoan Kiem Until Mar. 26

Goethe Institut is presenting an interactive exhibition featuring German inventions in seven themed areas; computer science, energy, mobility, communication, medicine, optics and materials.

Each category includes five to six exhibits that are each explained on an image or text panel, with pictures

Art Vietnam Gallery will be presenting the work of Dinh Thi Tham Poong, an artist who has exhibited internationally and whose works are in the permanent collections of the Singapore Art

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St Patrick’s Day American Club, Hoan Kiem, Mar. 18 Intercontinental West Lake, Tay Ho, Mar. 19

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with food, music and lots of good entertainment. Entrance is VND250,000.

The following evening, the Intercontinental Westlake presents the St. Patrick’s Gala Ball featuring live music, a great Irish meal, Irish coffee, and a free flow of beer, wine, and Magners Irish Cider. The guest list is limited to 200 people. For reservations email stpatricksdayhanoi@ gmail.com. Tickets cost VND2.2 million per person.

For further info on both events click on facebook.com/SPDHanoi

selections do the talking.

At ATK his talent will be on show in his predictably unpredictable DJ sets, which are made up of carefully chosen gems unearthed from years of digging. San Soda is also co-founder of the We Play House label, which has been the home to most of his textured, analogue house and techno releases.

CAMA ATK is at 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm.

Entrance TBA

San Soda

Zenith Yoga Studio I & Café Mar. 18 to Mar. 27

CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Mar. 18 DJ San Soda has been playing around the world pretty much non-stop for the last half decade, his music selections couched in US house and techno but calling on Afro, disco or electro when required. Most often found playing vinyl, preferably on rotary mixers and in his own unique way, this Belgium-born but Berlin-based talent likes his careful

Wellness Workshops

French holistic teacher Mamouchka is holding a series of wellness-related workshops in mid-March. These include an emotion and feelings workshop on Mar. 18 at 6pm; a detox, nutrition and blood types workshop on the morning of Mar. 19, all-day cranio-sacral osteopathy biodynamic therapy (CST) on Mar. 20, and an afternoon foot massage workshop on Mar. 27.

Fees range from US$20 for the

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emotion and feelings workshop to US$160 for the all-day event.

Zenith Yoga Studio I & Café is at 247B Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For info call 0904 356561 or 09885 954260, alternatively click on zenithyogavietnam.com

Gout de France Various locations Monday, Mar. 21 More than two dozen restaurants in Vietnam will take part in the Good France culinary event to be held on Mar. 21. This is a worldwide event featuring over 1,500 restaurants that began last year on the initiative of famous chef Alain Ducasse.

The meals will follow a set pattern: aperitif and canapés, starter, main course (s), cheese, dessert (s), French wines and champagnes.

Participating restaurants in Hanoi include La Badiane, French Grill, Green Tangerine, La Vertical and Le Jardin French Bistro. For the full list of participating restaurants and the menu for the day, click on goodfrance.com. At the time of writing the information was only in French

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ToDo

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The 2016 AmCham Gala

Electro icon, Gudrun Gut, plays Hanoi on Mar. 23

Klaus Legal will play at ATK this month. Music to the ears?

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1. Images from previous editions of the AmCham Gala

JW Marriott Hanoi, Tu Liem Monday, Mar. 21 This years installment of the AmCham Gala will be taking place on Mar. 21 at the JW Marriott Hanoi.

An annual event since 1998, this is one of the “must attend” business events of the year in Hanoi. Raising funds for the AmCham Scholars program, which recognizes talented, dynamic, ambitious, and communityminded final year students at the best universities in Hanoi, this year’s gala will feature the United States Secretary of Commerce, Penny Pritzker, and visiting members of the President’s Export Council, which includes CEOs of some of America’s most well-known companies.

Every year the AmCham Gala attracts over 400 of the top movers and shakers in Vietnam including Chief Representatives of foreign and local enterprises, heads of diplomatic missions, and many members of the government.

Guests will enjoy a five-course gourmet dinner with paired wines,

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top-shelf drinks, cool prizes and auctions, as well as great live performances.

Individual seats cost VND3 million each and corporate tables are also available.

For more info click on amchamhanoi. com/event/the-2016-amcham-gala. The JW Marriott is at 8 Do Duc Duc, Tu Liem, Hanoi

Electro Icon On Tour Goethe-Institut, Ba Dinh Wednesday, Mar. 23 Gudrun Gut, one of the founders of experimental electronic band Einstürzende Neubauten, will perform an audiovisual concert in Hanoi on Wednesday, Mar. 23.

Her music ranges from post-punk and techno to indietronics, where she merges electronic vibes with nostalgic sounds of musical genres such as blues or tango. Gudrun complements her innovative music with her own video installations, and is also known for interacting with her audiences.

She has played concerts not only in Europe, but also in the US, Latin

America, Russia, New Zealand and Australia.

The Goethe-Institut is at 5658 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Entrance is free. Tickets are available from 9am on Mar. 14 at the Goethe-Institut

Klaus Legal CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Mar. 25 Referred to as blinding techno, power electronics, industrial music for eyes and ears, French experimental soundster Klaus Legal produces rhythms and a wave of sounds that get modulated through effects in order to create kind of soundscapes.

Klaus, self-described as “the mensch qui parle with you” is strongly influenced by Esplendor Geometrico, Pan Sonic and Sudden Infant, producing electro-acoustic music using light as his main tool. Local experimental acts Sound Awakener and Mathias will be supporting.

CAMA ATK is at 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm.

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IN

Just Hanoi

New apps, Hanoi Rock City, cable cars and pangolins

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Fansipan gets a cable car

The buffet at La Plume

HRC is now open during the day and comes with a clothes shop and an arts space

1900 Le Theatre only opened at the end of January but is already pulling in the crowds

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Save Vietnam’s Wildlife has just released 16 rescued pangolins into the wild

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Savant is a new ELT app linking teachers and students

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At the beginning of next month, AccorHotels is opening the first Novotel Suites in Asia

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First Novotel Suites in Vietnam AccorHotels has announced that its very first Novotel Suites in Asia — Novotel Suites Hanoi — will open in April. The Novotel Suites brand is designed to deliver comfortable stays for both short and long term guests, and is especially aimed at business clients.

Located on Duy Tan, a fastgrowing and developed economic area surrounded by business buildings and close to industrial zones, the property offers 151 comfortable units including the contemporary ‘Live N Dream’ studio rooms and one to three-bedroom apartments. Each studio comes fully equipped with a kitchenette within at least 32sqm of space.

Through its F&B outlets, Food Exchange Restaurant and Gourmet Bar, Novotel Suites will also be delivering a gourmet experience created by world-class chefs. In addition, the hotel provides extensive meeting facilities with high-tech audio and visual equipment.

Novotel Suites is at 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Hanoi or online at suitenovotel.com.

For more info call Tel: (04) 3576 6666 or email info@novotelsuiteshanoi.com

Savvy Teaching App UK-based language services provider TEFL Express and

Hanoi-based Language Link have released a free Android and iOS app called Savant, which can be used for matching students and teachers based on learning abilities, expertise, age, and location.

According to TEFL Express, the aim is to widen access to TEFL teaching, so that it is not restricted to pricey classrooms and inflexible schedules.

Savant uses intuitive technology to filter search criteria to put compatible students and teachers together.

The app was developed by Suria Labs and is available on the App Store.

For more information and updates, go to savant.express

Free Coworking Trial After a delayed opening in the Tay Ho area due to the slowdown at Tet, Toong Coworking Space is finally up and running.

Based on To Ngoc Van, Toong is offering a free two-week trial up until Mar. 11.

Further details can be found by searching for Trải nghiệm Toong Tô Ngọc Vân on Facebook. Toong Coworking Space is at 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Pangolin Release The Carnivore and Pangolin Conservation Program (CPCP), a collaboration, a collaboration

between Save Vietnam's Wildlife (SVW) and Cuc Phuong National Park, released 16 Sunda Pangolins into the wild last month after rescuing them from the wildlife trade and rehabilitating them at SVW/CPCP in Cuc Phuong National Park, Ninh Binh.

This release occurred in the lead-up to World Pangolin Day. Pangolins are the most traded animals in the world.

Vietnam has two species (Sunda pangolin and Chinese pangolin) and both are critically endangered, which means they face an imminent threat of becoming extinct in the wild.

For more information click on savevietnamswildlife.org

Peak Experience If the likes of Mont Blanc has done it, why can’t Fansipan? That is the reckoning behind the February opening of a cable car system that smashes two Guinness World Records.

Serving visitors in the northern Vietnamese province of Lao Cai, the Fansipan Sa Pa system will take tourists from the Muong Hoa Valley to the 3,143-meter peak of Fansipan Mountain, Indochina’s highest summit.

At over 6km long, the Fansipan Sa Pa has been recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s longest three-rope cable-car route. It also sets a record for the

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

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PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

world’s biggest vertical ascent between departure and arrival, measuring in at 1,410 metres.

Each cable car is capable of carrying 30 to 35 passengers, and the whole system can transport up to 2,000 tourists per hour, reaching the summit in just 15 minutes.

All meaning that the once mystical peak of Fansipan Mountain, a destination that required two to three days trekking, can now be reached in just a quarter of an hour.

Just what we wanted.

La Plume Bistro and Lounge Open at the end of 2015, La Plume is the latest incarnation of the restaurant in Hanoi’s Press Club.

Located a stone’s throw from the Opera House, La Plume continues its top-end mix of international cuisine that we remember from the past. At the end of February they brought in two-star Michelin Chef Alain Dutournier for a Table du Chef experience. Man at the helm at Carré des Feuillants in Paris, the introduction of such quality fare is part of La Plume’s desire to be at the forefront of the top-end dining scene in Hanoi.

La Plume is on the third floor of the Press Club Building, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Check out their Facebook page for their promotions and events

HRC Branches Out In an effort to diversify and to use their space during the day, Hanoi Rock City have welcomed in a number of outside entities into their venue.

Working together with HIV Nation (Hanoi Interdisciplinary Venture), the goal is to create a community space to help mentor people into becoming social entrepreneurs.

Two shops have already opened. Flanh is a clothes shop, offering second-hand designer clothes for men and women.

The style is somewhere in between vintage and modern and the shop also offers tailoring services. Prices are from VND150,000 to VND600,000 an item.

The Phosphorescent Fascist Fandango is a hand poked tattoo, open art studio space

by Karen Labis (tattoo artist) and Loren Hendin (writer and artist). It’s a place to come together to create art and crafts, hold a workshop, sell your art or get a tattoo.

In addition, HRC is now operating during the day selling coffee and food and offering a different atmosphere to that at night. The Sausage Man will soon open a kitchen there.

The fundamental core of HRC hasn’t change — they are still a beloved music venue at night, a great place to hang out and have a good time.

Hanoi Rock City is at 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi

1900 Le Théâtre Set in an old theatre once dedicated to the traditional folk art, Tuong, 1900 Le Theatre is a bar and nightclub with nightly DJing events and promotions.

Decorated with paintings that give an insight into the history of Hanoi and Vietnam, the venue sells top-shelf spirits as well as beer and cocktails, with drinks by the glass costing between VND40,000 and VND120,000 a go. At times the atmosphere can get electric.

In an attempt to make their space accessible to a wider audience, 1900 is planning to host a range of Vietnamese cultural and art activities during the day. So, watch this space!

1900 Le Théâtre is at 8 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem or online at 1900.hn

Insider

The Many Faces of Vietnam / Through Our Eyes / The Beautiful People / When Backs are Turned... / The Honey Hunters / A Vietnamese Mosaic / Saigon's Skybars / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Banh Troi Tau / Mystery Diner HCMC / Vegetarian Snacks / Bagan with a Holga / Notes From Another City / The Motorbike Diaries

Photo Francis Xavier 44 | Wordby March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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Insider

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INSIDER

HANOI

The Many Faces of Vietnam From waiter and stonemason to cashier, Trung Del has taken a meandering route to achieve his dream of becoming a photographer. Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy

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first met Trung Del on a business trip to Hanoi last September. He was friendly, wore an army shirt and had his long hair tied up into a little bun. Originally from Thai Binh, Trung spent hours teaching me how to use my new Nikon camera while I collected fragmentary stories of his life.

Trung never knew his father; all he knows is that his father left for Germany a long time ago. Since he was 12, he has been dreaming of going to Germany to find him.

“When I was younger I thought that all western people spoke English. So I learnt English as hard as I could in order to get a scholarship to Germany,” he says. “But I would still like to go there because of its free photography courses.”

He pursued his English studies until his junior year of university, when he dropped out due to financial problems. On leaving his studies, he set off for the Vietnamese Highlands in search of a better life.

Life is not Easy Before officially working in the photography industry, Trung plied his trade in many fields.

The list includes being a stonemason in the Highlands, a delivery driver, a café waiter, a cashier for a cosmetic company, clothing salesman and a waiter at the once popular downtown hang-out, Southgate.

“I worked doubles at Southgate Hanoi for two reasons — it wanted to learn hospitality skills and rebuild my English.” He pauses for a while and then laughs. “In fact, it was more about the free staff meals.”

After Southgate closed down, he again went back to his café waiter job at a café-cumphotography-lab called Zone5. This gave him his first step towards a life in photography.

The Passion The more photographers Trung met at Zone5, the stronger his passion for photography became. Feeling the excitement brought on by the images taken by other people, Trung decided to buy his first camera.

“It was 2012 when I bought my Canon FTb for VND600,000,” he says. “Then I drove to Thai Nguyen to buy an old VND800,000 lens.”

In 2013, Trung began shooting a project on street life and bumped into well-known photographer Justin Mott, a friend of the owner of Southgate. Justin offered him an internship and Trung ended up working for him as an assistant for a year.

Through Southgate Trung also met Thiep Nguyen, a photographer with the American MIA programme. Once again, he worked as an assistant for Thiep. Between Thiep and Justin, Trung got vital, on-the-job experience. Since then he has worked with a number of other photographers including Aaron Joel Santos, Christian Berg, Chris McGrath, Andrew Rowatt, Jose Ferreira, Marcel Lam and Tim Barker.

“Working with professional photographers has inspired me and has made me want to become a true photographer,” he says. “But because of the financial pressures and the fact that I don’t have a stable income, I’ve become a professional photography assistant instead.”

He adds: “In Vietnam, anyone who has a camera is regarded as a photographer.

Becoming a photography assistant is more interesting, and it’s certainly more unusual.”

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Day 33 37-year-old Phuong sells conical hats. After helping him make a sale to a foreign couple, he was happy to post for a portrait.

Day 8 Ramlan is a 58-year-old taxi driver in Kuala Lumpur. He moved to the Malaysian capital 15 years ago from a poor village, and has been working as a driver ever since.

Day 2 Born in 1995, Huy works as a security guard on Hoan Kiem Lake.

He has been working there for almost two years since he failed the entrance examination to university.

Day 11 20-year-old Sebastian Port is a juggler, a Reiki practitioner and a psychedelic artist. He is at Kuala Lumpur Airport waiting for his connecting flight to India.

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Day 26 A cleaner at Guangzhou International Airport. I couldn’t talk to her but she was pleased to pose for a photo.

Day 52 Thai Chau is a friend from Saigon. Born in 1987, he’s now a singer and a tattoo artist. Last year he performed at the Monsoon Music Festival in Hanoi.

Project 365

Day 24 Vuong is 55 years old. She brings flowers from her village 40kms from Hanoi to sell at the biggest flower market in town.

On Trung’s 30th birthday he bought himself a Lomography Petzval Art Lens 85mm f2.2 — he’d been saving up for it for almost a year. A reproduction of a piece of photographic equipment designed in 1840 by Joseph Petzval, the lens creates a number of aberrations including field curvature and a high level of vignetting that make it perfect for shooting portraits that come with effects that you can’t create in post-production.

Trung’s project was to shoot one portrait every day for a whole year.

Then, for his 31st birthday he would print a photobook — each image would come with the name of the person, their age and their job title. “If I couldn’t shoot any portraits in one day,” says Trung, “I would fail.”

For the first two months, the project went well, but then on day 60, he hit a wall. Working on a job in Saigon with an architecture photographer, his day finished at 11.50 in the evening, not leaving him enough time to find a subject for his portrait. The project was abandoned.

To follow are images from the first 60 days of shooting his portraits. Says Trung, “I’ve promised myself that I will soon find another portrait project to get stuck into.”

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Cover Story

Through Our Eyes

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ord means writing. It means words and sentences, paragraphs and articles. It doesn’t mean photos. Yet we take our photography seriously.

We get so much good feedback on the quality of our photography, that this month we decided to give the written word a break and to let the photos do the talking. The result? Photo essays created by all of our photographers that give an insight into modern-day Vietnam.

From commercial reality and the ever-present theme of change, through to streetlights, Tet, the destruction of the past, the epic countryside, the markets and street food, our photographers have come up with a range of stories which reflect their personal view of Vietnam.

We hope you enjoy what we have put together. A compilation of photos may seem simple, but as with all art forms, it’s required a lot of time, thought and effort.

The Markets

The Beach

Natalia MartĂ­nez

Nick Ross

desdevietngon.wordpress.com

nickross.co

Natural Wonders

The Colours of Tet

Jesse Meadows

Vu Bao Khanh

messyjeadows.tumblr.com

vubaokhanh.com

Streetlights

Old Buildings

Julie Vola

Francis Xavier

julievola.com

Before and After Mads Monsen madsmonsen.com | omcollectionstore.com

franswissxavier.tumblr.com

Street Food Kyle Phanroy flickr.com/photos/phanroyphotography

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The Markets

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Natalia MartĂ­nez

knew that moving to Vietnam would bring me an endless list of wonderful experiences, as well as some awesome food adventures.

During my first days in Ho Chi Minh City I wandered around its streets on foot, as I was too afraid to join the motorbike madness. It surprised me how many of these streets were a smorgasbord of food; I had never been in a place where there was an opportunity to eat in every single corner and alley.

Getting lost, I would end up in narrow streets that would lead me to local markets, and through them I discovered and explored the roots of Vietnamese cuisine. How could one country gather so many traditions and

draw such an extended map of flavours?

Markets play a crucial role in Vietnamese gastronomy, with all their endless varieties of produce and beautiful colours, not to mention the vendors who add an extra layer of depth to an already rich tapestry.

I have often described myself as foodobsessed, and Vietnam has cemented this facet of my personality. Gastronomically speaking, it opened some horizons that I hadn’t yet crossed.

I feel that maintaining the marketplace culture will be key if we wish to preserve the rich and vibrant traditions of Vietnamese cuisine, especially during this era of burgeoning 21st century consumerism that is already beginning to change the local scene.

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The Beach

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Nick Ross

hen I first came to Vietnam I spent a few days in Phu Quoc. There I discovered the white sand beach, Bai Khem.

Without a soul in sight, it was the perfect image of paradise. Yet when I finally returned last November, I was horrified.

The sea had washed up kilo after kilo of trash, rat-infested seafood shacks had sprung up on its shore, and the once deserted, white-sand strip of nirvana was no more. The sea, which at the turn of the millennium was so clear you could see the jellyfish from five metres, had lost that brilliant azure. It was a disaster zone.

Yet on one end of the bay, the JW Marriott is being built. A five-star, no holds barred, luxury resort, before they open out of necessity they will clean the beach. The beach will be saved.

Other beaches in Vietnam have been lucky. Dat Doc in Con Dao. Bai Dong south of Nha Trang. The beaches on Ninh Van Bay north of Nha Trang. Bai Ong Lang in Phu Quoc. All thanks to the resorts that nestle on their shores.

It’s a typical Vietnam story. Only where there’s a financial incentive will the environment get spared. Otherwise, unless it’s lucky, it falls to pieces.

I just hope that one day it won’t be commercial considerations that save Vietnam from destroying nature, but the needs of the people. To do this requires a change in mindset. It’s coming, I just hope it won’t be too late.

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Natural Wonders Jesse Meadows

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hink of a moment when you encountered something so much bigger than yourself, it inspired both wonder and horror. Maybe you stopped, your breath stolen and your heart pounding, unable to look away, trying in vain to absorb it all and store it in your memory. Maybe you even tried to take a picture, but then you laughed at the poor little substitute for the tremendous sight in front of you.

For me, these moments only happen in

nature. Philosophers have been writing about this phenomenon for centuries.

Theologian Rudolf Otto called the experience “Mysterium tremendum et fascinans”, or, a fearful and fascinating mystery.

When I think about Vietnam, it’s not the food, or the motorbikes, or the cities that come to mind. It’s not even the people, resilient and beautiful as they may be. It’s my terror on the precipice of the Ma Pi Leng Pass, my awe at the sheer power of water cascading over Ban Gioc Waterfall, and my

reverence in the majestic caverns of Phong Nha-Ke Bang.

It’s the sublime experiences I’ve had in the face of the most epic natural landscapes I’ve ever seen. The boundlessness of nature can be frightening, like mountain ranges that stretch so far into the distance, you can’t see where they end, or the unstoppable force of a storm rolling in. But these experiences are comforting, too. They remind me that I have no control over the universe; I am just a minuscule part of a much grander whole.

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The Colours of Tet

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Vu Bao Khanh

y best memory of Tet, the Lunar New Year, is in Saigon. When I was young, I lived in Ho Chi Minh City for 10 years. During the Tet holidays, the city was full of colours and lights. I really loved Chinatown in District 5. It was so different to the rest of the city and during the New Year period, it has its own spirit. During Tet this year, I spent the first day wandering around this area.

Before I started working as a photographer, I studied IT. But I quickly realised that I’m not the kind of person who can sit for hours in front of a computer. So I quit the course and took up photography instead.

The more you love photography, the more you see life differently. Tet brings colours and a certain

energy that you cannot see at other times of the year. This is what I tried to capture in this essay.

Shot in the run-up to Tet in Hanoi, each colour I chose in the photo essay is strong and bright.

Their shades and brilliance represent the colours I associated with Tet when I was young. Each tint, and every single tone reflects the emotion and energy of the most important festival in Vietnam’s calendar.

Yet as you get older, the spirit of Tet tends to fade. As a grown-up, getting ready for the New Year is time-consuming and full of worry.

This photo essay reminds me of a more carefree period of my life, when I didn’t have to go to school, when I ate candy, cake and played with firecrackers.

It’s important not to forget.

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Streetlights

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Julie Vola

t night, the streetlight embraces its surroundings, touches the walls, then slowly evaporates into the void, leaving you with nothing to hold on to. A mundane alley during daylight hours becomes unrecognisable, though strangely familiar. The streetlight becomes a spot of hope in the middle of the night.

Hanoi has been just that for me. At a time where I could not stand to be where I was anymore, I came to Hanoi, where everything was unknown, foreign but strangely familiar.

Hanoi made sense to me, I needed to be here.

These images might create angst and uneasiness, because it might feel like the darkness is getting to you. They are a representation of the Freudian uncanny,

something familiar yet strange, incongruous, creating a conflict with your experience.

I strive for the uncanny; to me, they are peaceful and serene. It’s like a hypnotic eternity that time seems to have abandoned into a heavy silence.

When I am asked about why I fell in love with this Hanoi, my answer is always the same; for its light. It’s a photographer’s love story. Light in Hanoi moves me. Foggy mornings, dawn in summer time, or deep in the night, when I see these types of lights, I know I am where I belong.

Driving at night in Hanoi is when I feel the most free, the happiest. Nobody is on the road. I own it, and in the darkness, I see so many possibilities.

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Old Buildings Francis Xavier

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W

hen I was a kid I never noticed old buildings. I believed that Vietnam should look modern, that newer is better. But when I took up photography, I began seeing things differently. I looked up, looked around, and suddenly the structure and details of these buildings began to intrigue me.

I’ve always thought of Saigon as hot and ugly, full of cramped tube houses and motorbikes. But once I started seeing the beauty in these buildings, I see it everywhere. It’s changed the way I look at this city.

What fascinates me is the details — doors, arches, stairs, mosaic glass doors, electric wires — but it’s mostly the stairwells that I like. I like seeing how they’re built, where the light falls, the use of space. You never see this in a modern Vietnamese house.

One of my favourite buildings is The Catinat on Ly Tu Trong, with two separate beautiful stairwells and an old working elevator. The sound of that old elevator makes the whole structure feel like it is alive.

The building is doomed — this year it’s due to be knocked down.

I also love the building at 727 Tran Hung Dao, which is said to be haunted. It’s now in a terrible state, with trash everywhere, graffiti and leaking water. Residents are being forced to move out so the building can be demolished. The Thanh Da Apartment Block in Binh Thanh is also run down. Yet people are still living there and the stairs are nicely lit up at night. This one seems set to survive.

As Teju Cole wrote recently in the New York Times: “Photography is inescapably a memorial art. It selects, out of the flow of time, a moment to be preserved, with the moments before and after falling away like sheer cliffs.”

Whatever the fate of these buildings, photos such as the ones on these pages will preserve them.

“When the photograph outlives the body,” continued Cole, “when people die, scenes change, trees grow or are chopped down — it becomes a memorial. And when the thing photographed is a work of art or architecture that has been destroyed, this effect is amplified even further.”

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Before and After

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Mads Monsen

ou don’t need to have lived in Vietnam for a long time to notice the change.

Businesses open and close, buildings come down and towers spring up from nowhere. Ca phe sua da is now caffe latte, streetfood stalls have become restaurants, and bars and cafés now ooze style.

Change permeates everything, including our own cells. Yet, the change eludes us until we compare ourselves with an image of our former, younger self.

Photography has the power to make this comparison by freezing a moment of time.

A tiny slice, a fraction of a second, kept as a reminder of what once was and of what now is.

But once the ‘now’ is shot, even that becomes the past.

District 2 is a great example of this. One of the largest areas in Ho Chi Minh City,

it has undergone a rapid and dramatic change. Until just three years ago it was full of fields, mangrove and pagodas — it was the countryside within city limits. Now, it is developing at unimaginable speed.

The two photos here show before and after.

Before the development, and after the fields have been cleared.

The gate still remains, but not for long. It will go, too. The colour has also gone, it is no longer lush and green. Yet even this is temporary. The land will soon contain high-rises, roads, cars and motorbikes. Parts of it will be made into manicured public spaces, part will become shops, but all will become the future of Vietnam.

The power of photography allows us to see these differences, to see this comparison, to capture these moments in time that will never occur again.

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Street Food

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Kyle Phanroy

y love of Vietnamese food goes back to my childhood. Brought up in San Diego, most of my time spent with my father revolved around eating. We would always go to the same pho restaurant near his house, and every time I visited my grandmother, she always had a bowl of thit kho trung (caramelized pork and egg) on the stove, and a whole pot for me to take home. After moving to Vietnam, I found comfort in the food.

I like to shoot street food because of the human experience. Beyond eating, there are very few things in life that we are required to do in order to live, and that we take such joy in doing. We love to eat, and our love of

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eating spans across almost every culture.

You can never define food culture through photography. Ultimately, until you eat the food in its own particular environment, the experience can never be complete. But through photography you can inspire others to try and experience different cultures.

In Vietnam, street food is everywhere — it’s vital to the metronome that makes this country tick. It also has an amazing ability to bridge social gaps, showing no discrepancy between rich and poor, old or young.

Rather than being marginalized, as street food often is elsewhere, here it’s something for everyone.

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Insider

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INSIDER

PHOTO ESSAY

The Beautiful People If you’re looking for elegance and grace in the female form, the work of Morgan Ommer will start you off on the right road

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lthough Morgan Ommer refers jokingly to himself as a “halfling” (through being Vietnamese on his mother’s side), his photography shows a single-minded dedication to the world of fashion and the beautiful people who inhabit it.

The list of titles he has worked for over an 18-year career tells its own high-society tale — Tatler, Elle, Vogue. And the names of the models who regularly pose for him reads like a Who’s Who of Vietnamese fashion and film — Kathy Uyen, Ha Anh Vu, Do Thi Hai Yen and more.

The beauty of the Vietnamese models is complemented by being outfitted by Vietnamese designers or Vietnam-based designers such as Chula. One of his subjects, Trang Khieu, has her own fashion line in Vietnam.

Modesty “I’ve always been interested in fashion, and shot a lot of fashion when I first moved to Vietnam in 2010,” he says.

It’s not hard to see why models and magazines seek out his talents, about which he remains modest: “I selected these pictures because they are of famous Vietnamese models and actresses, plus I got lucky, and the pictures turned out okay.”

Whether in a five-star hotel or at a hu tieu stall, the pictures amply bring out the elegance and beauty of his subjects, though he prefers to attribute the quality of the

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images to the models themselves.

“Trang Pham is a good friend of mine,” he says. “She is an amazing model, and I photographed her for one of the covers of Travel + Leisure at the reception desk of the Metropole Hotel in Hanoi. Trang Khieu won the first season of Vietnam’s Next Top Model. She is currently working in Milan. She also has her own fashion line in Vietnam.”

Another of his subjects, Do Thi Hai Yen,

is Vietnam’s most internationally recognised actress. She starred in Phillip Noyce’s 2002 film The Quiet American with Brendan Fraser and Michael Caine.

Morgan’s portfolio extends a long way beyond the world of fashion, with his images appearing in international publications like Time, Monocle, and Travel + Leisure. But it’s still the fashion angle that attracts him.

To see more of Morgan’s work click on morganommer.com or noipictures.com

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INSIDER

PHOTO ESSAY

When Backs are Turned…

As Thiery Beyne has discovered, it’s not just the face that tells you about a person, but their back

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hen you think of portraits, you think of people’s faces. In his latest exhibition, Nha Trangbased photographer Thiery Beyne has turned this concept on its head.

A veteran of the scene — the Frenchman has been working with cameras for almost 30 years — Thiery has travelled the world, exhibited on numerous occasions, and in 1997 won a prize at the Nikon International Photo Contest for an image taken in India. As he’s the first to admit, the problem with such a long career is staying fresh.

“As time goes on it gets much, much harder,” he explains. “You feel like every photo you shoot, you’ve already shot 100 times before. So I’m always on the lookout for something new.”

Striking Back The “something new” came last year by chance. He was running a photo trip for a resort in Nha Trang when he saw a fisherwoman wearing the most unlikely of t-shirts. So he took a photo of her, but from behind.

“When I got home, I looked at the photo more closely on my computer,” says Thiery. “I said to myself, ‘Maybe this is a new concept,’ taking photos of women’s

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backs, with their amazingly coloured hats, headdresses and hairstyles.”

The result is a six-month-long obsession that, he admits with a laugh, has seen him “only looking at women’s backs”.

For Thiery, his images represent the joy of women, a joy symbolized through their choice of clothes, the different colours they wear, the bold prints on the materials they choose, all those things that he says “show their love of life”.

“When I take a photo, the woman I shoot gets a surprise,” he says. “They hear the click of the camera, turn around, look at me astonished and yet always with a smile. They perhaps don’t realise why a photographer is interested in their back, but it can be very amusing and it’s always quite childlike.”

It’s certainly voyeuristic — but then isn’t so much of photography? It also breaks all the rules of the standard portrait. Yet by doing so, Thiery is showing a different side to people, to the subjects of each and every image.

Thiery’s exhibition, Back Photography, is presently being exhibited in Paris at Galerie Anne et Just Jaeckin. To see the full set of images, click on thierybeynephotographer.com and go to the menu entitled femme-women

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Insider INSIDER

PHOTO ESSAY

The Honey Hunters

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Sludge, man-eating tigers and a stinging sensation are all in a day’s work for the honey hunters, as Tim Barker discovered when he caught up with them.

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he Sundarbans mangrove forest in Bangladesh and India is one of the world’s magical places. At 10,000 square kilometres, this UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Ganges Delta marks a front line between the natural world and the forces that conspire to destroy it.

As the human population expands, that of the creatures contracts, from the endangered royal Bengal tiger, through to the crocodiles and deer, all the way to apis dorsata, the giant honey bee, and the locals who hunt its honey to make a living. Which is where Tim Barker, photographer for NOI Pictures and Lonely Planet, comes in.

“I read about the honey hunters in the Lonely Planet and contacted a tour group who were running a trip [to the Sundarbans],” he says. “We followed the honey hunters in a large boat and then we split off into smaller groups to follow them each time they went out for a hunt. The bees migrate back to the same spots each year so the honey hunters visited nests that they knew about from previous years.”

Hostilities Describing it as extreme photography, says Tim: “It was difficult terrain to walk in and there was also the constant threat of tigers.

We heard stories of many hunters who had been attacked and killed by tigers.”

Other photographers in the group fell into the mud, ruining their cameras, and then, on their last hunt, they ran into a hostile reception.

“When we approached our final hunt, the bees sensed us coming as they release a pheromone when they sting, and when other bees sense this they go into defence mode,” he says. “They attacked our group before the guide had lit the torch and we had to run for it. Making matters worse the tides had risen dramatically during our time on the land and we had to cross a river that was now about 1.5m deep.”

There were compensations, however.

“The honey is wild and it is the most delicious honey that I have ever tried,” he says.

To see more of Tim’s work, click on tgbarker. com or go to noipictures.com

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INSIDER

PHOTO ESSAY

A Vietnamese Mosaic

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If you could piece together Ehrin Macksey’s photos into a jigsaw, then you would get a good representation of the enigmatic puzzle that is Vietnam.

Here is a selection of his work

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orking full time as a photographer and filmmaker for almost a decade, Ehrin Macksey started his career in Vietnam. For him, taking up his profession in this country has been a blessing.

“Vietnamese people are generally really open and friendly, and live quite colourful and dynamic lives,” he explains.

“If you go to the countryside or the city you can find stories and meet people who are willing to open their lives for you as long as you are respectful to them.”

Yet when he was asked if he wanted to provide a photo essay for this issue of Word, he provided images from all over the world, including everything from industrial photography of dams and factories for corporate annual reports to documenting the social effects of modernisation, HIV, leprosy and prostitution.

We decided to narrow it down.

We asked him to get rid of Dubai, Haiti, Switzerland and China and provide us just with images he had shot in Vietnam. The volume of photos we received was immense.

The Mosaic The subject matter we have chosen runs over the following pages and includes images of a boy Ehrin found waiting for a school bus, a young Vietnamese girl with natural blue eyes, a farmer surveying his fields on the Chinese border and a laughing yoga session in Hanoi. Each image is different, but each captures a different aspect of the tangled web of passions, emotion and scenery that can be found in this country.

Yet ask which images Ehrin loves the most and his response is that he loves all his photos.

“They are all challenging for different reasons and I generally love the process of creating an image,” he explains.

“For work I enjoy shooting industrial and corporate [subjects], but for personal reasons I love documentary story telling. It’s the roots of how I became a photographer.”

To see more of Ehrin’s work, go to ehrinmacksey.com or noipictures.com. His video work can be found at vimeo.com/ ehrinmacksey

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Saigo

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Sorae Floors 24-25, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai. Just below Chill.

Clientele: Mostly expats, with a sprinkling of rich Vietnamese thrown in Dress Code: Nice Beer: VND60,000 to VND150,000 for a 500ml can Cocktails: VND170,000 to VND290,000 Drinks List: Whisky heaven, with some genuine rarities.

Sake heaven. Sizeable for the rest

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modernist vision of 1980s Japanese excess, with hanging wire sculptures resembling abstract fishing nets, towering bamboo shelves and pebble gardens. Enjoy pounding, bass-heavy music in comfortable surroundings.

With a wine collection of over 400 bottles — and a whisky collection with bottles whose prices can reach VND99 million — the snobbiest drinker can tipple in smug satisfaction. All the more so because the bartenders are exceedingly knowledgeable, guiding you to a drink you’re certain to love.

The beautiful decor and stunning view of District 1 make this one of the nicest — and most expensive — places to get a drink in Ho Chi Minh City. If you show up from 5.30pm to 7.30pm, Sorae’s happy hour gets you half off most drinks.

In a Nutshell: If you’re an epicurean drinker, Sorae is for you.

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Broma: Not a Bar 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Clientele: Walk-ups from the street, it’s mostly a younger crowd, evenly split between foreign and local Dress Code: Come as you are Beer: VND80,000 to 190,000 Cocktails: VND140,000, except for the fiveshot Long Island Ice Tea at VND250,000 Drinks List: Moderate; more than enough to make excellent cocktails

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lovely, plant-bounded, candle-lit space, where tourists, expats and locals rub shoulders equably. The view overlooking the new Nguyen Hue is stunning, hinting at a gentrified future for Ho Chi Minh City.

For an even better view, climb the ladder/staircase to Broma’s observatory, a microscopic upstairs that lays out Nguyen Hue all the way to city hall.

The music gets a trifle loud, though Broma does interesting things with its choice of DJs, creating a different theme every weekend.

If beer is your thing, try local craft beer Te Te, or Spanish import Inedit.

Cocktail recommendations; Broma has a surprisingly creative cocktail list. To beat the heat, try the Kumquat Smash. Alternately, to heat things up, the Rum Bo Hue is the drink for you.

In a Nutshell: Manages to be both relaxed and electric, but the music can get a trifle loud for talking.

KOTO 2nd floor, Kumho Asiana Building, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Clientele: 80% foreign — philanthropists and the hip. 20% local Dress Code: Casual; tourist chic Beer: VND45,000 to VND99,000 Cocktails: VND85,000 to VND105,000 Drinks List: Modest, but enough to make some killer cocktails. Broad wine list, but lacking depth

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OTO is a great place to feel good about spending money. Breezy and garden-like, it is curiously intimate for so spacious a terrace. Perfect for parties and BBQs, KOTO seats 280 people and stands 400. Vincom towers like a purple monolith above, with the rush of traffic and the bustle of a night market below providing plenty to look at.

The inside is more conventional, a hubbub of conversation threaded through with mellow beats. Enjoy a drink at the bar, chatting with the convivial bartenders. All the staff, in fact, are friendly and warm.

KOTO’s only weakness is its limited bar — the top shelf of high-end cognac and scotch is purely for show. Nevertheless, their

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house cocktails, the KOTO Colours and the Kojito, are both cool, refreshing examples of the mixologist’s art.

In a Nutshell: For the ethically evolved partier, KOTO is one of the most relaxed and spacious destinations here.

OnTop Bar 20th floor, Novotel Hotel, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Clientele: Hotel guests and tourists. Word writers on assignment Dress Code: Casual. Hotel guests have to be able to come up straight from the pool, after all Beer: VND95,000 to VND130,000 Cocktails: VND165,000 Drinks List: Moderately extensive. You won’t find rarities, but you won’t be disappointed

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ince OnTop is part of Novotel, the standard corporate hotel chic applies; this bar could be in London, Dubai, Tokyo or San Francisco and look essentially the same. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, of course — it has a comfortable feel, the sort of place where one can while away an evening chatting with good friends.

The view is pleasant, showing off the city from an unexpected angle and allowing for a degree of people-watching not possible from higher vantages.

One of the funnest parts is the range of promotions; 50 percent off every day from 5.30pm to 8pm for starters, and an individual special every day of the week. My personal favourite is Tuesday’s promotion, where you flip a coin against the bartender.

Win, and the drink is on the house. If you lose, of course, you pay up in full.

In a Nutshell: Chill and relaxed, the novel promotions give you something to look forward to every night.

Social Club 23rd floor, Hotel des Arts, 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Clientele: Wealthier Vietnamese, hotel guests, business-class expats, young urban Vietnamese professionals Dress Code: Smart casual. You don’t need a tie, but no shorts nor sandals Beer: VND90,000 to VND150,000 Cocktails: VND210,000 Drinks List: Serious, with a focus on singlemalt Scotch and a large selection of wine, including some lovely New World vintages

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ecorated in wood panels, with carved screens separating the booths and elegantly comfy chairs, the closest term is nouveau club chic. Calling back to the Old World while throwing in hints of the new,

it’s only fitting that the bar of the Hotel des Arts should look so nice.

One of the quieter, more elegant watering holes in the city, this is where you head to close that deal and celebrate in style afterwards. The DJ spins out a nice selection of tunes, the perfect blend of energizing and relaxing.

The upstairs bar is a bit less fancy, though the pool and outdoor shower — for when you absolutely must cool off after that fourth mojito — are a nice touch. And the view is breathtaking.

If you’re hungry, the dining nook offers something light-years beyond mere bar food, but beware; prices are steep.

In a Nutshell: Posh; this is the place to bring high-powered out-of-town guests for a sophisticated drink.

OMG! 15-17-19, Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 Clientele: 40% tourist, 60% locals and expats. From young and hip to old and fanny-pack wearing, OMG boasts a diverse crowd Dress Code: Casual as it gets Beer: VND90,000 to VND150,000 Cocktails: VND120,000 to VND160,000 Drinks List: Boasting around 850 bottles of wine, the spirits selection is limited at present, but should be moderately extensive by the time you read this

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ith a remodelling that should be finished by the time this goes to print, OMG is looking to tone up its image. The indoor area is being transformed into a gourmet restaurant complete with oyster bar, curated wine-appreciation dinners and whisky mentoring.

Though not as immediately impressive as other views, OMG has an almost hypnotic vantage point of the Ben Thanh roundabout — watch traffic swirl around as though it were the legendary maelstrom, while Bitexco Tower shines above like a starship ready for launch.

Happy Hour is from 6pm to 8pm, with a smart selection of sparkling wines. If music is your thing, OMG provides it; if you’re lucky, the manager himself will hop up and spin the tables.

In a Nutshell: Location, location, location. And we can’t wait to try the new menu, either.

Shri 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Clientele: Upscale expats, people who can afford to dress nice, hip young Vietnamese professionals

Top of the Town 18, An Duong Vuong, Q5 Clientele: Hotel guests — a broad mix of people, young to old, local to foreign Dress Code: Casual, but shorts and sandals will feel under-dressed for the attractive dining area Beer: VND85,000 to VND110,000 Cocktails: From VND110,000 Drinks List: Standards and favourites

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he only major contender outside of the District 1 gravity well, Top of the Town is located on top of the Windsor Hotel — itself the first five-star hotel outside of District 1. The dining room and conference rooms are spacious and elegant, while the terrace bar is all glowing moulded plastic, flashing dance-floor and loud, loud music.

The cocktail menu is classic, featuring

Singapore slings, mai tais, martinis and the rest of the gang. For food, the restaurant is just next door, so no need to keep nibbling at the bowls of nuts they provide.

Renovations should be complete by the time of publication, so expect a sweeping view of District 5, with the glittering District 1 skyline shining to the east. Come at sunset to enjoy the light of that golden hour shining through the vines curling up the outside of the bar.

Come for Top of the Town’s Happy Hour from 4pm to 7pm daily for half off selected drinks.

In a Nutshell: For luxury outside District 1, there’s no other choice. The newly renovated terrace promises to be stunning.

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Chill Skybar Floors 26-27, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Clientele: Rich people and their hangerson; tourists; the young and gorgeous Dress Code: Smart casual. No sandals, no shorts Beer: VND140,000 to VND180,000 Cocktails: VND210,000 to VND520,000 Drinks List: Solid but not spectacular — a focus on the classic and the recognizable

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he name is misleading. Chill is all flashing lights and breathtaking views of the city, an aggressively modern place for the smart set to congregate in. Packed with party people, it can be a tad difficult to discuss literature or philosophy while the music is pounding away. With bottle-service galore, this is one of

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the places the wealthy come to amuse themselves, and it’s one of the loudest, fullest skybars in town.

An absolutely stunning view of District 1 is mostly ignored by the clientele, but trust me, you’ll want to walk the edge and stare, slack-jawed, at the Ho Chi Minh City skyline.

Cocktail recommendation; try the Berry Sour, a concoction of port, Bulleit bourbon, egg whites, red berry tea, sugar syrup and fresh lemon juice. Sweet and tart, it’s a perfect complement to the flashing lights, thumping bass and glowing bar.

In a Nutshell: Smart casual may leave you feeling under-dressed; this is where the beautiful expats come to play.

Dress Code: Smart casual during dinner hours; for earlier or later drinks, touristcasual is ok Beer: VND60,000 to VND170,000 Cocktails: VND190,000 Drinks List: Extensive, with a selection of Scotch that is among the best in the city

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n elegantly decorated restaurant with spectacular views from the outdoor terrace, Shri at night lays out the city beneath you like a carpet of jewels. The plush chairs and lush profusion of plants make this a marvellous place to let the stress of the day simply melt away. Simply sit in beauty and sip on one of their unique cocktails and emerge refreshed.

Both a bar and a restaurant, Shri carries over 300 wines, from Old World to New, from South Africa to Australia and has an excellent dinner menu.

Happy hour is 4.30pm to 6.30pm daily, and gets you 25 percent off all wines and 50 percent off all other drinks.

In a Nutshell: Hot first dates. Or any hot dates, really.

La Vie en Rose 21st Floor, Ben Thanh Tower, 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Clientele: Locals, Japanese, Singaporeans.

Serious middle-aged men who mix business with pleasure Dress Code: Smart. You can get away with a polo shirt, but next to all those silk ties and

Armani jackets, you’ll feel out of place Beer: VND140,000 Cocktails: VND250,000 Drinks List: Large, but understand, this is a bottle-service place. Expect to pay VND3 million and up

Beer: VND135,000 Cocktails: VND170,000 for classics, 185,000 for signatures, 220,000 for champagne cocktails Drinks List: Bottles galore with prices to match

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a Vie en Rose is not about views, it’s about a plush, crimson luxury. This is where affluent locals can come to seal their latest business venture over a bottle of high-end liquor. All dim red lights and silent-footed servers, La Vie also serves excellent food, a long, luxurious step above the usual bar fare.

Featuring a different style of live music nightly, La Vie is reminiscent of a 1970s gentlemen-only club, the sort of place an older Don Draper would have gone to brood, wheel and deal, and charm young waitresses.

Cocktail recommendation; featuring a similar menu to Chill, our personal favourites are the On the Sky and Sexy Bar. We’ve got no clue what’s in them, but they tasted great.

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In a Nutshell: Got a hankering for bottle service in a dimly-lit, almost mysterious atmosphere?

In a Nutshell: Come drink in one of Graham Greene’s old haunts.

he stunning, unique panorama of the Saigon River stretches from the Phu My Bridge in the south to a glimpse of what could be the Saigon Bridge in the north.

With indoor and outdoor seating and several upper terraces, Breeze is built around an elaborate mural and traces of 1920s elegance — an effect slightly marred by the Saigon serenade below of squealing wheels, shrieking brakes and the indignant blat-blats of motorbike horns.

Check out the topmost terrace for a unique view of what Saigon was — small apartments, old men hanging laundry in their boxers — and the towering, gleaming glass skyscrapers that it is becoming.

Try the signature cocktail Happy Saigon, or order one of their rather spiffing Brandy Alexander’s.

Vertical Skybar

Breeze 5th floor, Hotel Majestic, 1 Dong Khoi, Q1 Clientele: Pan-Asian hotel guests, tourists, the occasional local Dress Code: Casual

Liberty Central, 17 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Clientele: Hotel guests, tourists, locals looking for romantic view, biz types Dress Code: Hotel casual meets pool casual Beer: VND80,000 to 150,000 plus jugs

Eon Heli Bar 52nd floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Clientele: Tourists, locals looking for a romantic view, business types Dress Code: Tourist-friendly, so come as you are Beer: VND99,000 to 230,000 plus jugs Cocktails: VND220,000 to 265,000 Drinks List: Capable of making a mean speciality cocktail — and with some exclusive top-shelf choices, too

You’ve literally reached the top here — Eon Heli Bar is the highest bar in the city, and if you can afford it, well, then you’ve probably made it in that sense, too.

Not a place to get hammered and pour out your woes to an ostensibly sympathetic bartender, Eon Heli Bar is all about sociability.

Featuring live music at sunset and at 8pm every night, one can wander the ring-shaped bar grooving to the music, or to the mix of foreign tongues that greets your ear. If you want something more disco, a DJ spins from 10pm onward.

With their new Ladies Night in effect every Wednesday as of March, there’s one more reason to go get drop-jawed about the views available at Eon Heli Bar. In a Nutshell: The highest view in town is not to be missed at sunset.

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The View Rooftop Bar 8th floor, Duc Vuong Hotel, 195 Bui Vien, Q1 Clientele: It’s Bui Vien. Expect backpackers, dreadlocked hippies, and burnt-out expats who still haven’t discovered the rest of the city Dress Code: ...again, it’s Bui Vien. Just don’t show up naked Beer: Yes. VND22,000 to VND48,000 for a 500ml can Cocktails: VND99,000 to VND119,000 Drinks List: Massive, but only covering less pricey forms of booze

Cocktails: VND150,000 to 170,000 Drinks List: Selective, but able to cover the basics (plus screaming orgasms)

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f you want to drink not just poolside but in the pool, Vertical is for you. Featuring seating that allows guests to dabble their toes and more in the water, Vertical is a great place to float in the water and soak up the booze. Remember, though, drunk swimming? Not a good idea.

Vertical features a sweeping view of the Saigon River, offering views of the last undeveloped land near downtown. Which isn’t to take away from the city view; stand by the bar and gaze westward over Ho Chi Minh City through floor-to-ceiling windows.

With lots of sofa seating, Vertical places a premium on their guests’ physical comfort, and the service is top-notch.

Pro-tip: try the screaming orgasm… or any of the other shooters the bartenders will happily make while you watch.

In a Nutshell: For when you want to lay out by the pool in alcoholic splendor.

Rex Rooftop Garden Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Ben Nghe, Q1 Dress Code: None Clientele: International, first-time in town

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nter through the Duc Vuong hotel lobby and take the elevator up to an almost Escher-like maze of small rooftop terraces bounded by palm fronds and flowers. The View Rooftop Bar is a nice respite from the hustle and bustle below.

Get a seat near the Bui Vien edge to people watch, or simply stare across the rooftops and enjoy the sight of an old Vietnamese man hanging his laundry. You can also people-watch right in the bar, listening to the babel of people from a dozen countries around the world enjoying the

crowd, hotel guests Beer Price: From VND129,000 to VND199,000 Cocktail Price: Rex Special Cocktails from VND279,000 Drinks list: Quite a few cocktails to choose from and a little bit of everything else. A separate and mostly by the bottle wine list is quite traditional with nods to the city’s colonial past

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he Rex Rooftop Garden famously became the favoured hangout for journalists and military officials during the American War. Guests unaware of this can brush up by perusing the multitude of artefacts on display throughout the almost sartorial terrace.

A true step back in time to French colonialism, the owners have clearly gone to lengths to preserve its place in history. Openair and with views of Nguyen Hue, this rooftop also features live music every night playing between two crazy elephants and an ornamental royal crown, gifted by a foreign delegation. A must-see for first-time visitors, the Rex Rooftop Garden is part of the city’s history, and the Rex itself is one of the original five-star hotels in the city. If you’ve got the cash, you can splash out in the opulent ground-floor luxury shopping mall, then take in the centre of the city upstairs.

In a Nutshell: Get lost in a slice of modern history. A must-see.

low-cost drinks and relaxing atmosphere.

One of a very small number of bars on the list serving shooters, the menu features half a dozen types and more. Be warned: though they are cheap at VND30,000 each, you can only order them three at a time. The View also has the longest happy hour in town, from 10am to 6pm. Each day features a different two-for-one cocktail.

In a Nutshell: For those who want to mingle with backpackers, or simply see Bui Vien from a new perspective.

Level 23 at The Sheraton 23rd Floor, The Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Dress Code: Smart casual Clientele: Hotel guests Beer Price: from VND120,000 Cocktail Price: Popular cocktails from VND195,000 Drinks list: A respectable drinks list from this hotel skybar, ticking off everything you’d expect and a little bit more. Good for a pre or after party

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his atrium-style hangout could be the perfect place to take in the city at the start or end of your night. Leafy, airy and with an up-high view of the business district that few can match, the atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming.

Friendly staff are more than happy to keep your glass topped up and with a healthy list of signature cocktails to work with, you may just end up staying the night.

Clearly popular with the hotel’s guests, the grand lobby does raise expectations.

Gladly, I’d say once you’re seated and comfortable, Level 23 has everything you need to impress that important client, or woo that significant other. There’s a list of wines and single malts to keep most tastes satisfied and the tempo is generally upbeat. With a range of international guests usually staying at the Sheraton, enjoying a drink here means

Air360 22nd to 23rd floors, Ben Thanh Tower, 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Clientele: From the clued-in and the walk-ins, Air360 brings ‘em all Dress Code: Smart casual — no flipflops, no shorts. And smarter more than casual-er Beer: VND180,000 Cocktails: VND150,000 to 250,000 Drinks List: Solid selection focused on cocktails and spirits, though including beer and wine. Bottle service available

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ir360 — the name says it all, an airy playhouse of a skybar boasting 360-degree views. With a pool, aquariums, multiple levels, winding walkways, and some livertingling house cocktails, Air360 just pumps fun from its thundering speakers and pours it from its bottles of hard liquor.

The seating is surprisingly comfortable, particularly the booths — but you may not get one on weekends unless you come early.

Air360 also features plenty of events, including Flirt, their Thursday Ladies Night with two hours of free-flowing cocktails, DJs and an official hostess.

Though pricey, save wear on your wallet by visiting during happy hour, from 6pm to 9pm, when VND69,000 will get you any standard drink or bar snack.

In a Nutshell: Two words: Par! Tay!

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Liquid Skybar Rennaisance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Dress Code: 'Make an Effort' Clientele: Wealthier Vietnamese, businessclass expats and hotel guests Beer Price: from VND90,000 Cocktail Price: from VND240,000 Drinks list: An extensive range of first-class cocktails from one of the best professionals in the business means you’d be crazy not to enjoy more than one.

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newcomer to Saigon’s skybar scene, Liquid is making all the right noises in terms of its promotion and schedule of events. Impressive from its plush white cotton socks right up to its blackband fedora, Liquid offers three areas to enjoy the pool, the view, and what are some of the best cocktails in the city.

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VIP or not, it’s worth taking in the view of the river and enjoying the service of the attentive and professional staff. The atmosphere is mostly laid-back but don’t be surprised when they start turning it up a notch — they know how to throw a good party. Things can get a little wild on any day of the week, though, and late-night pool antics are not uncommon among guests enjoying the elevated atmosphere. If staying dry is more your thing, park yourself on the mezzaninelevel booths and soak in the view of the river.

In a Nutshell: More than you expect it to be. Dress to impress here.

you never know who you might run into to. Definitely one of the best outlooks in Ho Chi Minh City.

In a Nutshell: Take advantage of their special offers, but don’t hold back here.

Cobalt Pullman Saigon, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Dress Code: Smart casual Clientele: Mostly hotel guests and wealthier locals Beer Price: from VND100,000 Cocktail Price: from VND190,000 Drinks list: This is a wine bar, so the selection of New and Old World wines is impressive. All the classic cocktails are covered and there’s a solid choice of whiskey’s, single malts and the full range of liquors to keep your night alive

L

ocated close to what many might describe as the centre of Saigon’s nightlife in Pham Ngu Lao, Cobalt rooftop is an opportunity to get away from it all.

Offering peace and quiet in a spacious and

luxurious setting, this rooftop is perched 30 floors above the madness of the area below.

Often quiet during the early or late evening, enjoy the serenity of having this gem to yourself. Comfortable seating arrangements including some highly soughtafter couches mean you might just extend your stay, and the long view of District 1 is entrancing for first time visitors.

In a Nutshell: Stay a little longer. Perfect to wind down after a long day’s sightseeing.

Glow President Place, 93 Nguyen Du, Q1 Dress code: You can probably do smart, knee-length shorts, but definitely no flipflops and tank tops Clientele: The idle rich and those who want to be the idle rich; westerners who like feeling rich in Asia Beer Price: In the VND100,000 range Cocktail Price: from VND150,000 Drinks list: The cocktails here are

Saigon Saigon Rooftop Bar 9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1

phenomenal, at least they certainly were when we tried them. Also has an extensive wine list and, naturally, lots of bubbly

R

eality TV-style decor (think The Bachelor), Glow is in the aspirational, California Dreaming range, and it does it well. Beach-bar stripy cushions, Big Brother on-the-spot seating, a light-box oval bar, palm trees, excellent cocktails and bottle service aplenty, this is a place to be young, hip and wealthy. Just don’t go here when it rains — it will be a washout.

When it’s dry? This is a joint to write home about. This is a well-dressed, wellheeled bar with an ambience and a great sound system to match.

In a Nutshell: A place that talks the talk and walks the walk

What You Say Together with social surveying outfit, Townhall, Word recently asked a number of questions on Facebook to see what you think of the city’s skybars.

Often criticized for applying strict dress codes or employing over zealous security guards, as of the end of February 2016, here are some of your answers.

1) Y OUR F AVOURITE R OOFTOP B ARS

At the time of writing, Chill Skybar and Glow were running neck and neck for top spot with Shri following on in a close third place

2) S HOULD

THERE BE A DRESS CODE ?

43 percent of you voted yes, with 39 percent clicking on no. Reasons for yes included: — There’s a better vibe when people look good — They should be different from a backpacker hangout — A great place means a special dress code The naysayers among you said: Dress Code: Smart casual Clientele: Wealthier Vietnamese, hotel guests, international business people Beer Price: From VND98,000 to VND350,000 for some imported Belgian brands Cocktail Price: Luxury cocktails for VND220,000 Drinks list: Good selection of international beers, New World wines, spirits and cocktails to suit most travellers’ and locals’ tastes

O

ne of the best-known rooftop bars in the city. Bearing witness to some significant slices of history over the years, long-termers might liken it to a

fond relative — great value on any given night. With the option of the Bitexco Tower-facing terrace for larger groups, or more intimate balcony-side drinks, (great for people watching on Lam Son Square) Saigon Saigon is very much ‘at the heart’ of the city, and sits atop the famous Caravelle Hotel. Regular doses of live music entertainment will get most feet tapping and the mixed local and international crowd keeps it on the map as a place where guests mix business and pleasure.

In a Nutshell: Impress your date or party with your new colleagues.

— Everybody should be free to enjoy a rooftop bar — Most of the city's rooftop bars are too pretentious already — People need to be able to chill

3) W HICH

MUSIC SHOULD BE PLAYED ?

Leading the way quite clearly on this front was House music, with jazz and soul / RnB following on in second and third

The full answers will be published at the end of March 2016. To see the whole set of questions and to give your own thoughts, please click on wordvietnam.townhallapp.io

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Food and Drink

MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Mystery Diner South American steakhouses seem to be getting rather popular these days. So how well cut out for the beef fest is Rico Steakhouse?

Our mystery diner finds out. Photos by Vu Bao Khanh

R

ico South American Steakhouse looks like what would happen if a minimalist painter teamed up with Hemingway to design a restaurant. Bare grey walls are broken up by artwork with splashes of colour, and napkins as red as a torero’s muleta complement the dark studded leather chairs and booths.

The courtyard at the entrance is less severe, softened by potted plants. On one side the kitchen is visible through a large pane of glass, allowing observers to watch the cooks prepare the food as if in an aquarium display, a quirky feature that makes you wonder how the kitchen staff feel about it.

Arriving late, we saw our friend nursing an Old Fashioned (VND95,000). “The staff took care of me,” he explained, shrugging off our apologies. They continued to take care of us throughout the night, striking the perfect balance between being welcoming and attentive without being overbearing.

But all of this is merely window dressing.

For a steakhouse, what really matters is the steak. Rico offers many different cuts of beef, including wagyu and Australian steaks, with a variety of choices for sides and sauces. I chose the 200-gram Australian tenderloin

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(VND389,000), rare, with nothing but a glass of shiraz (VND150,000) to accompany it. My friends opted for pork ribs (VND279,000) and an Australian ribeye (VND339,000), with baked potatoes, spinach, and grilled corn for sides (each side dish is VND59,000).

Bring on the Beef My tenderloin came out thick and perfectly cooked; I attacked it like a matador performing an estocada, slicing until the juices ran freely. The meat practically melted in my mouth. We were all silent for a good 10 minutes as we set about the serious business of tucking in, cave-people communicating solely in grunts and moans of satisfaction, almost as if we had fought and killed the meal ourselves.

Eventually we slowed down enough to share. The pork ribs were tender, the meat nearly falling off the bone, and came with an incredible honey-mustard sauce. The ribeye was a bit chewy for my taste, as it was ordered medium-rare, but dipped in a red wine sauce (VND49,000) that came in a tiny saucepan (kept warm on a metal plate over a tea light), it had a wonderful flavour.

In spite of its small size, the baked potato

was presented beautifully and had some tasty accoutrements (sour cream and spring onions took a starring role), while the grilled corn was good, but not particularly noteworthy.

The spinach was delicious; although never a favourite of mine, I found myself enjoying it immensely and wondering if I had matured.

Upon further reflection (and after losing a knife-fight to my friend across the table), I decided that was not it.

For dessert we split a crepe with chocolate ice cream (VND89,000) and a chocolate fondant (VND59,000), which went nearly as well with our red wines as the meat did.

Although a pleasant end to the meal, the desserts did not particularly stand out; the presentation was lovely but the fondant was not as rich as I would have liked. The focus here is clearly on the steaks, as it should be.

Rico’s stellar steaks and service should recommend it to meat-lovers everywhere. I set out in search of an answer to the age-old question, “Where’s the beef?” and although it has only been open since December, Rico South American Steakhouse has managed to respond with a resounding “Here!”

Rico South American Steakhouse is located at 56 Tran Quoc Toan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

THE VERDICT

13 FOOD

14

SERVICE

11

DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink

W

hen we talk about dessert in Vietnam, what we’re really talking about is che. It’s a word used to describe a myriad of sweet combinations, but it is essentially a soup or pudding that can be topped with anything from red beans to green jellies to lotus seeds to fruits, depending on your preferences. Though it’s wildly popular with the locals, che tends to have a cold, gooey consistency that can be unsettling for newcomers. Enter banh troi tau, the most comforting member of the che family, especially when the weather turns cold.

We had a bit of trouble finding a dedicated banh troi tau stand, as most had shuttered for the Tet holiday, so we resorted to a che spot we knew would be open for business: Che Huong Hai (93 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem), family-owned and serving up sweet goodies since 1985. There on the sidewalk was a bubbling cauldron, little white dumplings bouncing on the surface. It’s a small holein-the-wall place frequented by locals and passing tourists alike, with a very helpful picture menu for the Westerners. As soon as we crouched down on our little plastic stools, we had two small bowls of steaming goodness in front of us.

The Kindest Cut Two yellow dumplings float in the middle of a white sea, sprinkled with chopped peanuts. Dip your spoon below the creamy surface and you’ll find a dark-brown,

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STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Banh Troi Tau It’s winter and you’re in search of some sugar, something sweet to give you some energy. What could be better than banh troi tau?

Words by Jesse Meadows. Photos by Vu Bao Khanh syrupy soup below. I picked up an entire dumpling, attempting to put it all in my mouth at once, when our photographer laughed. “Cut it first!” Khanh advised. So I sliced it open and found a thick yellow filling dotted with shredded coconut. I took one bite, and then the bowl was gone in seconds. My brain wanted more, and at VND15,000, it’s no stretch to get a second.

This dish is surprisingly filling for its size.

We sat for a while and watched the women at work. The dumplings are made fresh each day, lined up in a basket and ready for boiling. Mung bean paste and shredded coconut are rolled together and wrapped in a shell of glutinous rice flour.

Then, the little white balls are tossed into a giant boiling pot and boiled in homemade

ginger syrup, where they sink to the bottom. You’ll know they’re fully cooked when they float to the surface, where they are ladled into a bowl with a hearty serving of sweet broth, topped with fresh coconut milk, and sprinkled with peanuts.

Typically popular as a snack between lunch and dinner, banh troi tau satisfies in three ways.

First, the harsh bite of ginger syrup warms your throat like a healing tea, then the sugary coconut milk soothes you, and finally, the heavy dumplings fill your stomach. It’s truly impressive the amount of bases this simple dish is able to cover. It’s strictly a winter delicacy, though, so be sure to get your hands on some before the weather warms up again.

Che Huong Hai is at 93 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

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Food and Drink

MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

R&J Italian Lounge and Restaurant Aspiring to Michelin-star greatness, R&J is a hotel restaurant that screams bling. So, what does our Mystery Diner think? Photos by Kyle Phanroy

O

pulent. Extravagant. Lavish.

It’s easy to run out of adjectives walking into R&J Italian Lounge and Restaurant; it’s like an upscale, 21st-century opium den, or the Las Vegas penthouse of an oil sheikh’s spoiled son.

Mosaic walls and mirrors, wood and marble, plush couches and vividly upholstered chairs, all under a swirling galactic ceiling. It’s rich, all right, but the effect is more overwhelming than awe-inspiring.

My date and I sipped on complimentary Bloody Marys — created in front of us, and served inside hollowed-out tomatoes atop crushed ice — and began our run at the menu.

We ordered a large San Pellegrino (VND168,000) and my date chose a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc from the Viu Manent winery (VND188,000).

My date and I enjoy sampling widely from a restaurant’s offerings; this time one of us was celebrating a birthday, a good reason to indulge.

Also, I welcome a challenge, and reviewing one of the restaurants at Ho Chi Minh City’s sole six-star hotel is just that; it is, in some ways, the closest thing we have to a Michelin star in our midst.

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Eat, Drink and Be Merry Indulge we did, beginning with burrata (VND188,000), a dairy-fresh ball of mozzarella and cream surrounded by a skin of pure mozzarella. Next came the zuppa di pesce (VND288,000), a smooth slow-cooked blend of ocean flavours topped with garlic croutons.

My date opted for the cartoccio (VND268,000), a paper-wrapped sea of wine-dark squid-ink tagliolini, swirled with seafood and scarlet cherry tomatoes.

I took it up a notch, choosing the fivecourse Terra tasting menu, paired with assorted 12- and 15-year-old single malt Scotches (VND1,288,000). The mixed salad was good and delighted the eye — in fact, most everything at R&J was beautiful and cleverly plated.

The first real standout was the battuta — Piedmontese-style beef tartare, a dish not so much served as performed. My favourite was the caramella, a pasta of pumpkin, mushrooms and sweet free-range rabbit.

The finale was the brasato; slow-cooked lamb shoulder, mashed potatoes and veggies assembled into an edible leaning tower, all lightly coated with coffee jus.

As if this weren’t enough, we ate tagliata di manzo (VND588,000) a simple salad mounded atop sliced US ribeye.

Finally, we split the tortino that finished my tasting menu; warm chocolate cake garnished with raspberries and served with vanilla ice cream. I splurged on a glass of Joÿ XO Bas-Armagnac (VND298,000) a liquid exclamation mark for the gastronomic adventure we’d just had.

Throughout, service was swift, ticking every box of manners and efficiency.

Watching those specific few drinks and dishes being created in front of us was highly entertaining, and the bartender endured my barrage of questions with good humour.

A Brief Intermezzo Every dish was creative and some — the zuppa, the cartoccio, the caramella — were brilliant, but note that a Mystery Diner judges restaurants based on what they set out to accomplish (and yes, on how highly they price themselves). A slightly cheaper eatery that reaches its goals will earn higher marks than a top-flight chophouse that barely misses the mark.

To clarify one more thing; the food was very, very good. Executive Chef Giovanni Parrella comes from a century-long family tradition of running restaurants, and he has assembled a superb selection of delectable comestibles.

THE VERDICT

14 FOOD

14

SERVICE

11.5 DÉCOR

Michelin Anticipation I’ve been to Michelin-starred restaurants on three continents. R&J aspires to that elite company — and nearly makes it (in fact, I’d rate it better in nearly every aspect than a particular one-star I dined at in the US).

But in some ways, R&J, as good as it is, doesn’t quite measure up. They are minor quibbles, perhaps, but when one is paying this much, every detail matters; service, drinks menus, the precise wine or whisky pairings, the inspiration in every dish, every bite, those final creative touches to the food that make it dazzle and delight.

R&J is almost there. Almost.

That R&J isn’t at such a world-beating level yet is as much due to the evolving nature of Ho Chi Minh City’s dining culture as anything they have or haven’t done. As this culture matures, those details will fall into place for many restaurants — including, I don’t doubt, R&J. In fact, they may someday be the first to earn that coveted Michelin star, when Vietnam gets a guide.

Regardless, R&J Restaurant is definitely a top-tier establishment, a place to go for indulgences and celebrations.

R&J is at the Reverie Saigon, 22-36 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER

HCMC

Vegetarian Snacks Where once vegetarian street food was difficult to find, now it is almost everywhere. And it’s nothing to do with Buddhism, either. Vi Pham traces a trend.

Photos by Owen Salisbury

A

s Tet always comes and leaves with a wave of food, now is the time when all the taste buds need a break from the meaty and greasy protein. For this, eating a vegetarian snack is one of the best choices.

Even though vegetarian food has long been a part of Vietnamese cuisine, it was not until recent years that vegetarian street snacks have garnered attention. More vegetarian food stalls and small-sized veggie hubs are popping up around town with a wide range of dishes to choose from, making healthy snacks a reality.

Beyond Religion Vegetarian snacks have not become popular without reason. It has always been there in the dining culture of Vietnam and for centuries, vegetables have been a musthave part of a typical Vietnamese home meal.

Vegetarian food used to be consumed only for religious reasons, when Vietnamese families would have vegetarian meals on the last, the first and the middle days of a lunar month. But young modernday consumers are aware of the health benefits of vegetarian food. And older

adults are viewing vegetarian recipes as a healthier, more environmentally friendly alternative.

Cuisine prepared without meat also represents a promising market. Since people do not just eat vegetarian food based on the lunar calendar, the demand for vegetarian snacks has increased to meet daily demand. If one could previously only find vegetarian dishes around temples and pagodas, vegetarian street snacks are now available everywhere — from eating areas in the markets, on the street and in restaurants.

“I'm not really religious but I’ve beaten cancer with a vegetarian diet, so I want everyone to know vegetables can give them a better life,” says Ms. Lien, the owner of a small vegetarian snacking corner in Binh Thanh District when asked about her business motivation. “Eat more of my snacks and you’ll have better skin, too,” she adds as I dip into bi do kho — pumpkin cooked with soy sauce after a bowl of hu tieu chay — vegetarian noodle soup.

Good Food, Good Price Another reason for the increasing availability

and consumption of vegetarian snacks is price. They are affordable to all social classes as the recipes are often simple and do not require too many ingredients. Despite being low-cost, the quality remains beneficial.

Unlike other snacks that provide mainly empty calories, vegetarian snacks are high in fibre and rich in protein. They also give your stomach a break from too much protein. For only VND50,000, you can buy a set of various vegetarian snacks for four people. One interesting thing I’ve noticed while driving around town is that many vegetarian snack stalls can be found near

or in front of schools — students love to snack on meatless meals anytime of the day.

“So I won’t be too full and get sleepy in class,” answered my niece when I asked about her eating vegetable noodles almost every day of the week. One portion costs her VND15,000.

If you’d like to be a part of this cultural cuisine movement, check out 9 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1 or 157 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh. Prices for each dish cost between VND15,000 and VND55,000. Also look out for any street stalls with the sign “chay”.

Travel

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MANY TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL

Bagan with a Holga Julie Vola visits the ancient capital of Myanmar and escapes the crowds

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I

arrived in Yangon in mid-December when the weather was very good, dry and not too hot. I decided to be on my own for this Christmas holiday, just my cameras and me.

My travel itinerary was a bit different from the usual tour of the country (Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake). Most people rush through these places with two or three days in each location and long stints on night buses in between. As I only had 10 days, I didn’t want to rush, so to take the time to explore I split it between Yangon, the former capital, a vibrant, cosmopolitan city with amazing colonial architecture, and Bagan, the ancient capital with more than 2,000 temples and pagodas.

Shooting in Bagan has always been a dream of mine. Just like the iconic photos of trees growing on temples at Angkor Wat, I have always dreamed of taking photos of the balloons over Bagan. I quickly discovered that there so much more to this spiritual site than that.

My Holga, Bagan and Me After the overwhelming stimulation of my senses in Yangon, Bagan was an oasis of serenity — everything slowed down. I spent five days quietly writing and taking photos. Moving softly through my days I tried to be mindful of the small things that I didn’t capture with my camera, the melody of the chimes mixed with the

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joyous chatter of the souvenir vendors, the sound of the wind in the high grass and the twitter of the birds, the smell of dry leaves and cardamom and all the spices from the Burmese paan or kwun-ya (betel leaves chewing mix).

On the first day I visited all the main temples that are popular with tourists. These are the biggest, the most impressive but also the easiest to reach. As it has pagodas, temples and stupas sprinkled throughout the countryside, Bagan offers a lot of hidden gems. So for the rest of my trip I avoided the packed places and instead went exploring

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all the small dirt roads I could find riding an electric bicycle.

I prefer the photos from my Holga camera. Its simplicity better captures my mood in Bagan’s small poetic moments. I was fascinated by the light in this country, whether filtered through the trees or windows and doors in the temples, or under the hard blue sky.

Chance Encounters I wandered along a sandy track, moving away from the main road into an area barely indicated on the map. I got lost in the crops

and found myself pushing my bicycle through the sand near a little shack where a family was resting in the hot hours of the day. The father came out and invited me to rest with him for a bit, offering me muchneeded water. I showed him the map and he pointed to me where we were, then without speaking he showed me another point, a small monastery with no name.

Once I arrived there, the monastery was actually a ruin. I noticed a red robe drying in the sun next to a shack, but no-one was in sight. I walked around the ruins and suddenly from a corner a monk furtively

appeared. I followed him and when I reached him he only said hello. From then he did not speak again.

He led me to the top of the ruin to appreciate the view. He sat down while I took photos then I joined him. He saw my tattoo and I tried to explain its meditative meaning, he proceeded to show me some of his. We communicated through hand gestures and I understood he told me to come back at 6pm for the sunset, unfortunately it was my last day in Bagan and I had to take the bus to Yangon that afternoon to catch my flight the following day.

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Travel

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888

anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444

dalatpalace.vn

This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range.

Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999

dalatgreencityhotel.com

Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555

contact@hoteldelopera.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365

dalattrainvilla.com

Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.

In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555

hanoi-daewoohotel.com

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Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396

hanoi.hgi.com

With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia.

Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500

hanoi.hilton.com

Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888

hanoi.intercontinental.com

This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake.

Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

jwmarriotthanoi.com

From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688

maydeville.com

The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343

meliahanoi.com

Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800

moevenpick-hanoi.com

With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688

pullman-hanoi.com

With deluxe rooms and

suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000

sheraton.com/hanoi

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown.

In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919

sofitel.com

The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

M M M HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

sixonsixteen.com

Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969

goldensilkhotel.com

Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable

minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048

josephshotel.com

Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999

hanovahotel.com

A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital.

Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

M M M HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372

hanoibackpackershostel.com

Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

M M M HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777

equatorial.com/hcm

This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688

lemeridien.com/saigon

Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creative-minded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333

legendsaigon.com

Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888

saigon.newworldhotels.com

Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt.

The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686

pullmanhotels.com

Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity.

Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

riverside-apartments.com

Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1117

renaissance-saigon.com

This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheraton.com/saigon

Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688

windsorplazahotel.com

The full ensemble with its

own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201

continentalhotel.com.vn

This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866

novotel-saigon-centre.com

Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090

villasong.com

Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City.

Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926

lanlanhotel.com.vn

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966

alcovehotel.com.vn

M M M HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992

ducvuonghotel.com

Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699

dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915

honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)

3827 4648

sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An

anbangbeachretreat.com

CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231

hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800

danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888

furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234

danang.regency.hyatt.com

The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888

pullman-danang.com

Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway.

And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777

mercure-danang.com

Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix.

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888

starcitysaigon.vn

The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

kimdohotel.com

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 133

NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY

Front Beach

Down the Dogs

Home to an unusual array of statues and fishing boats

If you want some real competition (and some legal gambling thrown in for good measure), hit the Dog Racing

V

ung Tau is a go-ahead kind of place. In the first six years that I lived here, the city hosted the World Youth Chess Championships, the International Women’s Beach Volleyball Championships, Mrs World, the International Kite-flying Championship, the World Food Festival, and the RussiaVietnam Surf Championship.

But, as I said, that was in the first six years. Over the past few years there hasn’t been so much as a hint of a championship, a world tournament, or an international event of any kind on the horizon. Search the internet for ‘Vung Tau Events Calendar’ and you’ll come up with zilch, nada, nowt, nil. The slate, it seems, is clear. Why is that, I wonder? I mean, this is National Tourism Year, after all.

Has the oil money that funded the events dried up? Hardly. Admittedly, oil revenues have dropped over the past decade, but run out entirely? No. Despite low oil prices, Vietnam is still making a pretty penny exporting the black gold. Has a more conservative planning committee taken over the reins of the city’s administration? There have been no reports of any such move. So what is behind Vung Tau’s seeming disinterest in staging any more international events?

134 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Flying High?

By Don Wills

Could it be negative public opinion? Quite possibly. People are wary of attending these events if the organisation is below par. And, yes, organisational foul-ups have dogged a number of the past events. Let me give you an example or two.

In Belly’s Bar and Restaurant I fell into conversation with an Australian woman who was a competitor in the week-long International Kite Flying Championship.

“You can’t complain about the organisation — there is none,” she said.

“The other morning we’re on the beach at Long Hai, right, laying out our kite, getting the struts and strings straightened out, checking and double-checking, then one of the organisers announced there’d been a change of venue for that morning.

The event, they were told, was to be moved down the coast to Vung Tau. What’s the problem?

“Our kite’s five meters from wingtip to wingtip,” she explained. “Refolding it, repacking it, and arranging transport for it is a time-consuming task, let me tell you.

And that hasn’t been the only time this sort of thing has happened.”

Such organizational shortcomings were a pain in the backside for the competitors, but remained largely unknown to the

ENTRY 2:

Festival Time in Vung Tau

Banh Khot When it comes to the city's best known dish, Vung Tau does a great job. But food festivals? Forget it

general public. Not so for the muchheralded World Food Festival.

The days leading up to the festival were a whirlwind of activity. T-shirts and baseball caps bearing the festival logo were on sale everywhere, shops and hotels had been issued with booklets of food vouchers to sell to interested takers, Thuy Van Street on Back Beach had been blocked off for half a kilometre as stalls and mini-cafes were being set up. It was proudly announced that the Vung Tau World Food Festival had secured a place in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s largest food festival. To all appearances, preparations were well thought-out, well oiled, and well under way.

Food fast Then came opening day. Thousands of eager food fans streamed onto the venue. The variety of food outlets was mindboggling. Middle-Eastern food, Japanese food, Italian food, French, Greek, German, Korean, Indian, Thai, Chinese, Indonesian food… you name it, it was there for the taking.

After the salivating visitors had wandered the length of the street, they made their decisions and spent their vouchers on plates of whichever exotic

taste treat had taken their fancy. All went well for the first hour, then, one-by-one, the outlets ran out of food. The crowd had now swollen to hundreds of thousands, but most of them returned home still clutching their unspent vouchers, and still hungry.

The second day was a repetition of the first, only this time the food supply lasted just half an hour. And so it was for the rest of the week, resulting in a multitude of frustrated, bitterly dissatisfied customers.

The event quickly became known as ‘The food festival minus the food’. I’ll bet that never made it into the Guinness Book of Records.

What of the future? Will the city see any more international events, or will we no longer thrill to the sounds of “Ladeez and gennelmen… all the way from sunny Vung Tau Vietnam, we proudly present [drum roll] the one, the only, international extravaganza of the year, the…?”

Only time will tell.

“Search the internet for ‘Vung Tau Events Calendar’ and you’ll come up with zilch, nada, nowt, nil. The slate, it seems, is clear. Why is that, I wonder? I mean, this is National Tourism Year, after all”

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 135

Travel

THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000

M M M

Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222

M M M

2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

ghmhotels.com

HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800

angsana.com/en/lang_co

Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888

banyantree.com/en/lang_co

Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475

la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736

PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

hoangphuonghotel.com

136 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

NHA TRANG

sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination

The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000

sheraton.com/nhatrang

M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727

ninhchubay.com

junglebeachvietnam.com

On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666

BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900

novotel-nhatrang.com

This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222

sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination

blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111

cocobeach.net

With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177

joescafemuine.com

A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix.

MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440

miamuine.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000

victoriahotels.asia

Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844

easytigerphongnha@gmail. com

A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182

phong-nha-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367

5135

phong-nha-cave.com

The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

M M M PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998

beachclubvietnam.com

A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207

mangobayphuquoc.com

An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02

salindaresort.com

Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with contemporary design. The

property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.

M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946

catcathotel.com

The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

topasecolodge.com

With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553

binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939

condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525

hotramresort.com

This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-

galows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631

sanctuary.com.vn

The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach.

Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135

rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222

sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888

thegrandhotramstrip.com

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702

buffalotours.com.vn

A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam.

BTA customizes leisure and

corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150

exotravel.com

A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours.

Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828

handspan.com

Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844

hgtravel.com

Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com).

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308

intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses

on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977

kien@travelsense.asia

A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170

buffalotours.com

This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19

exotravel.com

A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744

flightravelco.com

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754

terraverdetravel.com

If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585

vietnamvespaadventure. com

Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659

backofthebiketours.com

Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience.

BEENINASIA.COM

beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436

tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 137

THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 12: THE ONE MORE SISTER THE OTHERS FORGOT

Still going strong, Matt and Nemo ride on to India’s Sikkim.

DAY 210 Darjeeling First time in months, mass tourism!

And it’s an odd feeling. A comfort of sorts with plenty of comfort foods, like the “authentic”, and I’ll admit, quite delicious, after months of rice and dhal, Tibetan Burger. More than that, a reflective, nostalgic, realization that perhaps a certain chapter of this journey is already behind me… and I almost want to turn back. But such is life… it only ever moves in one direction.

Now go mate. Your baby shall be named Gangtok. And he’ll settle in this odd corner of India, just for kicks.

No, really. This place is great. Clean, quiet, organized, culturally distinct. And they even stamped my passport at the border, and, yup, such silly things do make me smile.

I’m staying with a wonderful Tibetan family. And if I could only have one wish, it’d be to finally, after two continually cloudy months in the Himalayas, get to at least once see the snowy peaks.

DAY 214

DAY 220

The Unlikely Baby Europe, meet Tibet. Tibet, meet Europe.

Tsango Lake The one annoyance in Sikkim is that aside

138 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

from entry permits, I need permits within permits within permits to really access anywhere worthwhile. And requests for those are widely refused.

But I’ve found that Indians tend to make a huge fuss and dramatically overexaggerate every problem, so they’ll spend hours thinking of every reason why something is not possible, then they’ll suggest grand, completely unfeasible solutions. Then, once they finally get tired, something magical happens; within 30 seconds they’ll solve whatever the ‘problem’ was, and it takes them no effort at all.

So, a bit of persistence on my end, and I manage to receive the permit to visit this

“absolutely inaccessible” Tsango Lake near India’s supposedly only open border with Tibet.

Nice ride, nice lake, yaks with colourful horn-warmers roaming around. A bit rainy, but peaceful.

DAY 222 Indian “Pooja” in North Sikkim There’s a large parking garage outside my guesthouse window. Inside, there’s a brightly lit shrine of a feminine-looking god with a big moustache. The shrine is surrounded by a circle of cars decorated with ribbons and balloons. Plenty of other kitsch and flashing lights all around. It’s a tea party for cars! Or, in more proper terms,

the holiday for the Hindu god of Machines (I forget the name). I bet local cars wait all year long for this day.

back to Nepal. And I’d better hurry, only a month left on the visa. Wasn’t that thing valid for six months? When did it pass?

DAY 224

DAY 228

Decisions…

I’m a day’s drive away from Nepal, very broke and it’s decision time. But I’m not quite yet ready to end this journey of mine… I’m not yet ready inside. And on the outside, apart from this north-east “other India”, I also long for the “India India”; the Bollywood, the bright colours.

I genuinely don’t know how I’ll pull it off but it feels I already know my answer.

I’m heading to Kashmir, at the far other end, maybe 3,000km away, before looping

Finally!

Pelling, West Sikkim. My last day here and I urgently wake up way earlier than I usually do. And ahead of me, clear against blue sky, Mt. Kanchenjunga and the Himalayan snowy peaks. Absolutely breathtaking. And I know that all of it up to now, the good and the challenging, was all leading exactly to here.

For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 139

Hanoi

Day Tripper: Hanoi / Book Buff / The Alchemist / Bar Stool / The Therapist / Student Eye / Coffee Cup / Top Eats 1 / Top Eats 2 / Medical Buff Photo by Julie Vola

140 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Hanoi Essentials

ALTERNATIVE HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER

gkaren@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com

Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available.

HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE

issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth

A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi.

Only available online, but a great information source.

M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM (BBGV) 193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 6674 0945

HANOI OIS

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

NETBALL CLUB

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX

The chamber of commerce for all things relating to the UK and British-born expats living in the capital. Puts on monthly networking events, gala dinners, fundraising events and much more.

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

bbgv.org

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

ccifv.org

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228

eurochamvn.org

ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

icham.org

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh

sbav-hanoi.org

M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA

23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.

TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE

M M M

LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP

VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151

CLUBS & SOCIETIES

XUNHASABA

AMERICAN CLUB

ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

EVENT SPACE

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790

amchamhanoi.com

AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994

auschamvn.org

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850 GOETHE INSTITUT GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251

goethe.de/hanoi

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP

hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115

thehanoiclub.com

hanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164

vphanoi-lespace.com

M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

SKATESHOP

THREE TREES

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

JEWELLERY

booskateshop.com CONTRABAND

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

M M M

HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088

hanoicookingcentre.com

Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.

Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

COOKING CENTRE

33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758

ateliervietnam.com

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

METISEKO ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE

71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem

metiseko.com

A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fairtrade, Textile Exchange.

AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn

COOKING CLASSES

HIDDEN HANOI

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES

AIR ASIA airasia.com

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

L’ATELIER

AIRLINES

147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045

hiddenhanoi.com.vn

A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS

8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831

Mekong-quilts.org

Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in

CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

Hanoi Essentials

several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

Tel: (04) 3928 5190

artvietnamgallery.com

Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789

Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks.

Daloc.vn

DON’S TAY HO

MANZI

KITCHEN ART

BICYCLE RENTALS

GALLERY & BAR / CAFE

KITCHENWARE

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770

CYCLING

Dons-bistro.com

facebook.com/manzihanoi

HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009

Hanoigourmet.com

kitchenart.vn

BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS

Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam.

The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices.

70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941

NHA SAN COLLECTIVE

RED APRON

GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS

WINE RETAILER

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316

10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

GREEN BIKE CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST

15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES

34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES

29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156

thbc.vn

DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC

nhasanstudio.org

The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment.

Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.

DENTAL CLINIC

VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM

3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434

NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM

australiandentalclinic.com PEACE DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286

peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131

vnfam.vn

Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts.

SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

WORK ROOM FOUR

DENTAL CLINIC

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho

19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888

serenitydentalclinic.com

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555

westcoastinternational.com

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

GALLERIES ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,

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ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

workroomfour.com

A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

L'S PLACE GROCERY SHOP

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911 NATURALLY VIETNAM ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130

naturallyvietnam.com

THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE

17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854 VEGGIE’S GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701

warehouse-asia.com

M M M HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON HAIR SALON

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899 HAIR STREAM UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON

162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST.IN.M 48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907

GROCERIES / DELI

First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487 DA LOC WINE RETAILER

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC) CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS

44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (4) 3265 6888

acc.vn/en

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems.

BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717

bumrungrad.vn

JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH) INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL 32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3715 3666

GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER

The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500

INDOCHINA PLAZA

241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596

LOTTE CENTER

54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016

lottecenter.com.vn

jieh.vn

JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards, the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany), and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss - Germany) for refractive surgery. Top-end customer service and a friendly, contemporary environment add to the mix.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748

On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100

PARKSON

Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666

parkson.com.vn PICO MALL

229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400

SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999

hfh.com.vn

LAN SALON

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL

TOP-END SALON

PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190

SHOPPING MALLS

HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL

vietnammedicalpractice.com

WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER

ANNAM GOURMET

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS

55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880

hongngochospital.vn

VINCOM ROYAL CITY

72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666

Internationalsos.com

Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL

12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231 VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556

vinmec.com

M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370

insuranceinasia.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111

libertyinsurance.com.vn

REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488

M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435

bishanoi.com

A selective, independent, co-educational day school.

Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards.

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878

concordiahanoi.org

A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier

of the educational system.

All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140

hisvietnam.com

With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

isvietnam.org

A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818

kinderworld.net/sis

Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers.

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551

unishanoi.org

Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.

M M M MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS

37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096 MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS

106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464 PHUNG MOTORBIKE MOTORBIKE RENTALS

13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105 VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS

17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS

6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6332

fair-realestate.com

GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS

R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589

gialonghousing.com HANOI RENTING RENTALS

No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828

hanoirenting.com

LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS

38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999

houseinhanoi.com

VIETLONG HOUSING RENTALS

21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203

vietlonghousing.com

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511

vn.alliedpickfords.com

The largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam.

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209

kinderworld.net

Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418

hanoi.qsi.org

QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2,

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 143

DAY TRIPPER: HANOI TU TRAM

Jesse Meadows goes in search of a mountain 20km south of Hanoi and gets caught up in a parade

M

y favourite kind of travel partner is one that isn’t afraid of a little uncertainty. When I told my housemate Kate that we would be looking for a mountain called Tu Tram about 20km south of Hanoi on Highway 6, with little directions otherwise, she jumped for her coat. I assumed we would know it when we saw it — it’s a mountain, after all.

After sharing a busy highway with a bunch of dusty trucks for what seemed like more than 20km, we pulled over to ask for directions. It turns out that it’s referred to as Chua Tram, and you have to turn off the highway into the little commune of Phung

144 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Chau to reach it. At the base of the mountain, half-finished stone sculptures begin to fill the roadside, surrounded by formless stone blocks, ready for carving. Past these, there is a large pagoda complex where you can park your bike (though the vendors along the road outside the pagoda will charge you much less).

Set in Stone The complex is centred on a deceptively small cave mouth; the actual cavern is much bigger than the entrance would suggest.

The main room is impressively tall. Light filters in through jagged cracks in the ceiling,

and the comforting scent of incense wafts from the many altars dotted about. There are even little holes in the darkest of the cavern’s fringes, which you can crawl into to explore eerie, pitch-black corridors and abandoned rooms made of stone (we should have known this from all the vendors selling flashlights next to the incense).

We ascended from the depths and decided to keep climbing. There is a well-marked dirt path off the road, and after an easy climb, we were rewarded by an elevated valley of rock and grass surrounded by several peaks.

Many more paths worn down by Vietnamese teenagers and grazing cows traverse the

landscape, and it’s easy to scramble up the rocks for a wide-open view of the village below. On our way back down, we passed a group setting up a tent and building a campfire; they invited us to spend the night on the mountain with them, but we reluctantly declined. We’d gotten a tip from the only other foreigners we’d seen all day about a festival up the road, and wanted to check it out.

Carnival Time We drove along the main road until we saw an alley marked by a red banner. Kids ran by with balloons yelling hello, teenagers pointed

and laughed, surprised to see us, parents holding babies waved happily. The crowd grew and grew the farther we went, until the stone-and-brick alleyway opened up onto a lake and a street carnival in full swing.

Just 20km south of Hanoi’s chaos, this quaint town full of friendly faces refreshed our spirits. As if this surprise wasn’t enough, we found ourselves in the middle of a vibrant parade on our way out of the village. Standing in the middle of the street, surrounded by townspeople in dragon costumes and bright traditional dress, with the sound of drumbeats filling our ears, these are the moments you can’t plan; the

beautiful things you stumble into when you give up your plans to chance.

Getting There Take Tay Son south out of Hanoi (this will turn into AH13 or QL6, both the same road). After you pass under a large steel structure with a scrolling marquee, TL80 will be to your right. Take that until you can’t go any farther, and turn right towards the mountain, then right again when the road forks. The hiking trail and pagodas will be to your left.

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 145

BOOK BUFF MAN’S BEST FRIEND

BY HOANG VAN TRUONG

This month Bookworm’s Truong looks at books that focus on dogs

A

New Zealand veteran from the American war returning to Vietnam on a regular stint to assist a bomb clearance NGO said that he was astounded with the explosion in designer dogs in Hanoi. Gone are the days when you only saw chained up, chunky meat dog breeds. An occasional chihuahua would pop out of doorways and yap at your heels and that was about it.

The veteran is a lover of spirited dogs, so for his grandkids’ first books he always goes for the series about the terrier Hairy Maclary, also a proud New Zealander. Hairy reigns benignly over a tribe of suburban pooches that follow him on adventures all over town. Such frolicking wouldn’t be possible in Hanoi due to the cunning dog thieves who snatch up any that stray.

In the first book Hairy Maclary from Donaldson’s Dairy by Linley Dodd we meet Hercules Morse as big as a horse, Bottomly Pots covered in spots, Muffin McLay like a bundle of hay, Bitzer Maloney all skinny and bony and Schnitzel von Krumm with a very low tum.

For the uninitiated there’s a Great Dane, a Dalmatian, an Old English sheepdog, a mongrel, a dachshund, and Hairy, an Affenpinscher.

Worldwide sales of over 5 million books about Hairy and his friends is all to do with the rhyming text and very funny artwork.

Our veteran also loves another New Zealand dog, known affectionately as Dog. Dog, a border collie, is the star of Footrot Flats by Murray Ball. Dog is a cynical philosopher and the comic books about him and Wal on their farm sold millions throughout Australasia and they’re still nostalgically collected even though Ball stopped the series in 1994 when his own Dog died.

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Deep Southern Pointers Our veteran has been an English Pointer owner ever since he was a young child and he saw the 1940 movie The Biscuit Eater set in rural southern Alabama, way before desegregation wagged its tail and became a human rights issue. He recalled how the death of the dog made him cry his eyes out for the grief of the white kid Lonnie and Text, his African-American friend.

The plot, from the James Street short story, is about how they’d trained a biscuit eater — the local name for a failure — until it became a brilliant bird dog. They bribed it with a daily dose of stolen, fresh hen’s eggs, a taste that proved its eventual, tearstained demise. They called the dog Promise and entered it in the state championships alongside the dog their fathers trained for a wealthy Yankee. They heard a mistaken rumour that their dads would lose their jobs if Promise won, so at the crucial point in the competition when Promise was ahead on points they made him give up by taunting him as a despised biscuit eater.

The dog’s humiliation, the boys’ guilt and the dog’s death the same night when it ate poisoned eggs given to it by a jealous neighbour, was enough to make dog lovers weep buckets.

The short story by James Street was originally published in The Saturday Evening Post in May 1939 and then published as a book — originals of which sell for up to US$500. But our veteran is certainly not going to sell his.

Welsh Wolfhound Ever since a poetry-loving teacher read him the ballad Beth Gelert, he’s also had a thing about wolfhounds. Gelert lived in 13th century Wales and his grave can still be seen in the village of Beddgelert. He was the

faithful dog of the Prince of northern Wales, Llywelyn. One day Gelert refused to go hunting with the prince. When the hunters returned home they found Gelert covered in blood and Llywelyn’s infant son nowhere to be seen. It is inferred that Gelert has killed and eaten the kid and he is immediately slaughtered. As Gelert’s last breath sighs out the infant son is heard gurgling and they find him beside the body of a wolf that Gelert has fought when it came for the boy.

The prince is mortified, never smiles again and gives Gelert a hero’s funeral.

The tale can be found in the anthology Poems of Places, a collection edited by Longfellow that contains over 4 000 poems from every corner of the globe. Beth Gelert

by William Spencer is in the volume devoted to England.

Best of the Rest Every dog aficionado has their favourite canine tale and since we’ve been putting this article together we’ve made a list of titles that our readers love. At the top of the heap come Red Dog (a red kelpie) by de Bernieres and Travels With Charley (standard poodle) by Steinbeck.

We’d love to read a tale about a Vietnamese dog that is snatched by dog thieves and destined for a restaurant table but escapes and after lots of adventures avoiding throat slitters, finds a loving owner.

Truong is an avid reader and runs Bookworm (44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi). For more information on go to bookwormhanoi.com

Hanoi

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Essentials

MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281

elitefitness.com.vn

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762

agsfourwinds.com

A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805

santaferelo.com

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay.

This place is top of the range.

N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495

nshapefitness.vn STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515

200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉ

zenithyogavietnam.com

The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast variety of classes and levels in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa, Ashtanga and Pilates while also offering Restorative, Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga, Meditation sessions, and Kundalini classes. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, clothes and yoga props, as well as a café serving up the homemade vegetarian meals, cakes and coffee.

VIETCLIMB

SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT

vietclimb.vn

Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned,

SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

bosua.vn

HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757

hanoisport.vn

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel: 0904 356 561

M M M

40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185

BOO SKATESHOP

YOGA & NUTRITION

studio5.vn

CLIMBING CENTRE

6273 3095

BIG C SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS

19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)

SUPERMARKETS

13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305

umove.com.vn

222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem

bigc.vn CITIMART Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617

PHOTO BY JESSE MEADOWS

metro.com.vn

THE ALCHEMIST I AM…

W

hen I look in the mirror I see the outward expression of who I am, the person I think everyone else sees. At the same time, I know there is more to me than the mirror can reflect. The following excerpt from Sylvia Plath’s poem Mirror expresses one’s desire to know their true self. “Now I am a lake. A woman bends over me. Searching my reaches for what she really is.”

While there is plenty of fodder for a philosophical discussion of the ‘self’, for the moment I will focus on the physical composition of the human body, our cells, our DNA. As technology advances we are gaining a more sophisticated understanding of the human body.

Outnumbered Molecular biologists inform us that there are 10 times more microbial cells on and in our bodies than there are human cells, this means we are 90 percent microbial and 10 percent human. Thank goodness the larger human cells give us our form, however in terms of numbers, they are sparse. Not only are we outnumbered by our bacteria, our interrelationship is such that we could not survive without them.

When it comes to our DNA, only 3%

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of it is required to keep an adult body functioning. The other 97% is said to be an incredible database of memories.

Non-Physical Phenomena Researchers are also looking beyond the physical and into the metaphysical realms.

From the scientific discovery of a continued state of consciousness after death to the study of the cerebral spinal fluid as the conveyor of the “I Am” source energy in our physical bodies, today’s researchers are bridging the gap between science and spirituality.

Nikola Tesla is quoted as saying, “The day science begins to study non-physical phenomena it will make more progress in one decade than in all the previous centuries of its existence.” We are living in this time of exponential growth and discovery.

Self and Selflessness As clinical knowledge doubles every 18 months we are learning more and more about the make up of the human body.

The revelations are providing a broader platform from which to view our true essence. American Buddhist writer and academic, Robert Thurman states, “The human opportunity and the human job is

BY KAREN GAY

to come to an understanding of the self, even if you call that understanding the realization of selflessness.”

The following is a recent interaction I had during a session with one of my clients.

Client: What was it you started the session with?

Me: Craniosacral therapy.

Client: It felt like I left my body a few times.

My client evidently experienced astral travel, a state where one can expand their level of consciousness by travelling outside the physical body. Although it was not the goal to have my client leave her body, these occurrences as well as near-death experiences provide evidence that we exist in some form or another without our physical ‘container’.

Perhaps it is as Dr. Mauro Zappaterra believes, “The ‘I Am’ is the inner sense of beingness, the inner perception of existence.” The outer appearance is simply the packaging, and we all know better than to judge a book by its cover.

Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

Hanoi On the Town

BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem

facebook.com/bar84hanoi

Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

EDEN HANOI

MADAKE

SIDEWALK HANOI

THE UNICORN BAR

OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE

BAR & EVENT SPACE

DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE

COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE

End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho

facebook.com/edengargen

When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list.

ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE

88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029

88group.vn

A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar.

FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211

linkhanoi.com

A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI

15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix.

BARBETTA ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat.

CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970

cama-atk.com

With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170

facebook.com/hrc.hanoi

Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY

1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088 LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT

284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993

facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi

Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen, especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665

facebook.com/madakehanoi

With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge.

This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers.

PHUC TAN LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places.

POLITE PUB LONG BAR

5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho

facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly.

ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR

61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087

facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi

Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.

199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi

A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty.

SPY BAR HOLE IN THE WALL

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for.

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB

Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333

facebook.com/Nest.

Lounge.09XuanDieu

The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats.

It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas.

The views here are pretty eye-catching, too.

THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116

republic.vn

A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE

19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901

therooftop.vn

The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience.

2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front.

Now, as for the cocktails…

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL

114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6675 9838

tracyspub.com

A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi.

VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922

vuvuzela.com.vn

When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance.

For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.

CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers.

CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE

2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch.

They also do coffee.

COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240

coffeebean.com

This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 149

BAR STOOL RED RIVER TEA ROOM

PHOTOS BY FUJI PHAM

T

he Red River Tea Room is a haven on the shores of West Lake for those tiring of rambunctious backpackers, loud Vietnamese ballads and weak beer.

The bar is larger than it seems, with two separate buildings, tables next to the lake, comfortable indoor seating, a pleasant upper floor with a terrace, and a rooftop deck. Pleasant decor makes you feel at home without trying too hard to be hip or follow any particular design. With its wooden furniture, reds and yellows, and cosy lighting, Red River Tea Room looks like a nice, homey pub.

The menu is also striking for its excellent selection of beer, cider, and spirits. I sipped a refreshing Stowford Press cider (VND95,000) at a lakeside table, chatting with a friend and watching a man catch a series of

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medium-sized catfish with his bamboo pole.

Friendly staff are eager to help out in many different ways, from parking your motorbike for you (just leave it outside the door) to bringing food menus from various neighbourhood restaurants. They will also order your food for you, which is delivered right to the bar.

Whiling Away the Time The place seems to be popular with a slightly older expat crowd, which gives it a pleasant quiet pub atmosphere, but there is still plenty to do; the bar offers a wide selection of table games, including chess, Apples to Apples, Connect 4, or Jenga for patrons looking for a laid-back complement to conversation.

On this particular afternoon my friend and I had a lazy game of chess, which

became both more difficult and also more fun as the afternoon progressed. Although I had only planned to stay for one, we ended up whiling away a few comfortable hours there. First I tried the cider, which was fizzy and not too sweet, and then a dark Beer Lao (VND65,000) for something a little more flavourful at a fairly reasonable price. Also on offer are tasty local beers, like Pasteur Street IPA (VND90,000), as well as imported beers like Leffe Blonde or Brown (VND95,000).

The Red River Tea Room is the sort of bar you can’t quite work up the momentum to leave. It’s as comfortable as your own home, but with a much better selection of drinks, and (probably) a much better view. — Kate Robinson The Red River Tea Room is located at 25 Tu Hoa, Tay Ho, Hanoi

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 151

THE THERAPIST PHOBIAS

Dear Douglas, I want to know what is wrong with me.

I have had a fear of lizards since I was a young girl, but now it is affecting me every day. I cannot relax, because I am thinking they are around me. When I see one on the wall, I run the other way and make someone get it out of my house. But when there is no one to help me I feel frozen to do anything. Sometimes it affects my sleep or I wake up and the first thing I think is about where the lizards are. My husband and family tells me not to worry, the lizard cannot hurt me. I know all of this…so maybe I am getting crazy. Can you help me?

— Crazy Girl Dear Crazy Girl, You are not crazy. You have something that many people have. It is called a “phobia”.

It means an extreme irrational fear or aversion to something. People can have phobias of many things, including heights, spiders, flying, darkness, germs… and lizards or geckos. It is irrational… meaning that the fear doesn’t make sense, logically.

You have said that you know that nothing very bad will happen if there is a lizard in

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your house or room. You might feel like you are “crazy” because it is irrational and the emotion (fear) is very strong.

Fear is an emotion that is meant to be helpful to us by warning us when we perceive danger. If it is not too strong we can make a good decision to deal with the danger. Often the solution is to confront the danger (fight), run away from the danger (flight), or to become invisible like animals who use camouflage (freeze). These responses are part of a survival instinct called stress mode, and generate hormones and other body chemistry, like adrenaline, in order to alert us to protect ourselves.

The problem comes when we overreact.

Our body goes into “stress mode” when the real danger is not very high. Remember that emotions are fluid, like water, and that they come and go. We have all seen a child crying very hard one minute and 10 minutes later laughing and playing again. But sometimes we interfere with the fluidity of our emotions. We block them from moving through us and allow the intensity to build up so that they dominate our thinking and our behaviour, the choices we make.

In order to overcome the phobia it is

BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA

necessary to confront it step by step. You have said that you “freeze” when you feel the fear of seeing a lizard. With the help of a support person, you will be able to overcome the fear by exposing yourself to lizards and tolerating the discomfort you feel long enough to see the emotion come and go. It is often best to start with some relaxation exercises. The next step might be to look at pictures. Look closely at the picture and observe the feeling you have, even if it is uncomfortable, until the feeling becomes less difficult. Step by step you go closer to the thing that you fear, with someone by your side, and simply pay attention to how the feeling comes and goes. You focus on your breathing and other ways to relax yourself.

My recommendation is to seek a psychotherapist who can help guide you through this. It has been proven to be successful and is called systematic desensitization. Look it up if you want to read more.

I am sure it will feel really good to overcome this fear and you will not need to wonder, “am I crazy?”

Good luck, — Douglas

Hanoi On the Town

and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi.

CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

congcaphe.com

With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town.

D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE

89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior.

Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy.

DUY TRI

Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

highlandscoffee.com.vn

With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam.

JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY

22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071

joma.biz

Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt.

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE

16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night.

SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR

VIETNAMESE CAFÉ

43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.

and pan-Asian mains.

MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music.

Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

MAISON DE TET DÉCOR

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

LIFESTYLE CAFE

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub

facebook.com/manzihanoi

COURTYARD CAFE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea.

HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE

2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi.

Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN

5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;

36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722 On-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occasional farmers’ markets.

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117

A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café.

The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.

MOC CAFE

YOLO

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL

FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE

14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

(04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western

32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh

facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops

Boasting an abundance of communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly

quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout.

Open 24 hours.

ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com

A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.

EAT AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155

alfrescogroup.com AMATO

TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE

1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01227 367470 Located next to Binh Minh Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion tapas bar by night and a French restaurant during the day. Tiny, hip and yet surprisingly spacious, Amato offers an international dining and drinking experience in the heart of Hanoi.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224

aulacdobrazil.com

A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price.

They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.

ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT

288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945

asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD

129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s.

Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment.

CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER

4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6292 1044

chopsvietnam.com

Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint, and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served up with locally brewed craft beer, and this one’s a bit of a winner.

COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098

facebook.com/cousins.hanoi

A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere.

Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula.

DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN

18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831

daluva.com

A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list.

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 153

STUDENT EYE HALF MY COMPETITION

“T

hink of it this way, half your competition’s gone.”

The context of this quote; a conversation with college counsellors about the perks of allwomen colleges. Taken out of context, it could also be the complete opposite; an argument for the perks of all-men colleges.

On the thorny path of college and financial aid admissions, young (and most of the time ambitious) high-school graduates are reincarnated as serial College Scholarship Service (CSS) profile-fillers and overnight-essay writers. There is no magic formula, no real contingency plans to fall back on, and even if one succeeds in these two steps, a final uncontrollable externality remains: the existence of other similar hopefuls.

Ever since I was little, a fundamental life rule was instilled in me; always look above, never below. It was my mantra against mediocrity. As I grew up, I’ve gradually realized that to understand the bizarre

154 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

world in which we live, more categories were necessary, but that through it all, we generally try to sum reality up in the same simple order; who’s better than who?

Girls vs. Boys To be considered each other’s competitors, two genders would have to be on equal footing in both quantity and quality. In terms of quantity, is it true that there is a 50-50 distribution of male and females in the world? Roughly so, nature has a thing for symmetry. The real question is which one is better than the other.

In my class, the leader board in grades is mainly made up of female names.

This is not a singular occurrence, it’s been proven that girls struggle less with academics than boys. So If I were to look above academically, my entire competition would be from the same gender as me. But if we were to play catch or dodgeball and the teams were divided in’Girls vs. Boys’, in most cases, the boys would win by a landslide.

BY TO THU PHUONG

Once upon a time the discussion would have veered towards male dominance and victory, social progress however intervened and luckily so; men and women are now more or less considered fairly in all their differences. It would be a mistake to put the two in competition with each other; there would be no winner, just differences.

Therefore, what advantage do I really get even if the male population is out of the equation? Wouldn’t any woman want her achievements to be evaluated equally in perspective with both genders?

Differences and Inequalities In my opinion, the beauty of women's colleges lies in the fact that they are places that view women and men in rightfully different lights, thus acknowledging the differences without turning them into inequalities. Women's colleges were at first a response to the dominance of maleexclusive colleges; perhaps now they are reminders that we don’t have to be the same to be equal.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991

elgaucho.com.vn

With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service.

There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of.

FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN

59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959

foodshop45.com

Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

FRENCH GRILL

na-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC

5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam.

Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal!

INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN

10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668

indiapalacehn@vnn.vn

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse.

Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

TOP-END GRILL

JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

facebook.com/frenchgrill

With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286

greentangerinehanoi.com

A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochi-

J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL

G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3938 8388

alfrescogroup.com

An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list.

JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325

alfrescosgroup.com

Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking.

The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World.

KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337

koto.com.au

The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too.

Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery.

Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors.

LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509

labadiane-hanoi.com

On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal.

Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.

namese-French fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris.

LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN

LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO

44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

thbc.vn

Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays.

36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968

linguinifini.com/en/hanoi

With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam.

Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas.

LUNA D’AUTUNNO

dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN

23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven.

MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

CLASSIC ITALIAN

LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN

5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950

lasalsa-hanoi.com

A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338

lunadautunno.vn

This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.

Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list.

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317

PAN-CHINESE

Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Viet-

fortuna.vn

verticale-hanoi.com

MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH

11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207

cafe-des-arts.com

A contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys.

Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini.

Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board.

Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

MOOSE AND ROO

Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus,

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

COFFEE CUP TRANQUIL

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PHOTOS BY FUJI PHAM

W

hen Hanoi becomes too much an attack on the senses, sometimes it pays to forget it’s there.

As its name suggests, Tranquil is not the place that you come to catch up with a large group of friends you haven’t seen since last spring; the tables are littered with laptops and sketchbooks. Tranquil is where you go to sip coffee and put those archived ideas and inspirations onto paper, watched over by towering bookshelves and soothed by a piano sitting next to a red fireplace.

Not Just Caffeine Once I am settled, the barista puts a menu on the table along with a glass of cold water. The cappuccino I order at the bar is a reasonable VND48,000 and served with half an inch of froth, once the coffee is gone there is still enough froth in the mug to spoon out

with a topping of sugar.

The décor is very wooden, with the occasional red brick interrupted by the spine of a paperback. One side of the room is the coffee bar; wooden stalls lined up in front of it and a collection of mugs hanging from a rack. The bar-top is busy with glass jars of free sweets to snack on while you wait for your coffee, or if you’d prefer a warm croissant, it’s only VND20,000.

Behind the coffee bar is a bold menu, with different espressos starting from VND24,000, and the regular coffee options are no more than VND34,000. There is also a range of herbal tea and ‘brain refreshers’ for those working away the daylight hours; these range from lemon juice (VND34,000) to the signature ‘Tranquil Rock’ blend of espresso, bourbon and cream (VND60,000). Lastly, of course, hot chocolate for those chilly Hanoi mornings (VND52,000).

By Night I look forward to coming back one evening with some company to try some of the drinks options Tranquil offers; a dry martini, whisky sour or mojito all average a reasonable VND60,000. The outside area is netted with tea lights and small tables sporting ashtrays for more audible chatter, while the two sofas inside provide the perfect setting for a writers’ or book club.

Tranquil is the perfect atmosphere to escape Hanoi’s bustle, and the large selection of books makes a nice addition to an already serene atmosphere. It would be nice to see more food options in the future. Overall, Tranquil lives up to its name. — Billy Gray Tranquil is at 5 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at facebook.com/ Tranquil-1577260969205379

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 157

TOP EATS WANNAWAFFLE?

I

s “wannawaffle?" a rhetorical question?

The obvious answer is, yes, of course I do. But the real question here is, what kind of waffle do you want? Chocolate, matcha, raisin? Do you want it covered in raspberry gelato or nutella or butterscotch sauce? Would you like it as a pizza? Maybe what we’re really being asked here is, do you want to waffle? Because it might take you a bit of waffling to decide on all these options.

“At first, people were scared, and stuck to basic waffles. But now, they are getting more creative,” says co-owner Nguyen Hai Duy. He points out his favourite combination, a raisin waffle with coconut gelato, bananas and chocolate sauce, one of several set combos on the menu for the more indecisive.

158 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

The concept, which began in June 2013, was originally focused on takeaway, but it soon became obvious to Duy and partner Dinh Tuong Linh that they wanted to give customers a sit-down experience where they could really experiment with their waffle creations. Now, three stores later, the brand has found its footing.

The Personal Touch Their newest location sits above the Circle K on Dinh Tien Hoang, overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake. Walking in off the chaotic street, through the bright convenience store lights, and upstairs into their aesthetically serene space is an experience in itself. With heavy slate tables, a neutral colour scheme, and the kind of wood grain that can only be

described as ‘sexy’, it comes as no surprise that Linh studied architecture in London.

At first glance, the design feels professionally branded. But look closer, and you’ll see the personal touches, like porcelain napkin holders handmade by Duy’s father, and custom wooden cutlery designed specifically with the challenge of scooping both waffles and gelato in mind.

Even the photos on the menu, which I could have sworn were professionally done, are in fact homegrown; a team effort taken entirely by iPhones, inspired by the staff’s personal Instagram accounts.

Their culinary dedication equals that of their design; all the waffles are made fresh every morning, and again around 2pm. They make their own batter, sauce, and whipped

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

cream. “We even tried making our own Nutella once!” Duy laughs. It’s important to him that their ingredients are not only fresh, but locally sourced, too. “We want to keep it as Vietnamese as possible,” he says.

Time for some Waffle So, in the spirit of Vietnam, I opted for a matcha waffle with coconut gelato, fresh mango, and chocolate sauce (VND75,000).

Where many matcha desserts disappoint by being either too sweet or too bitter, this one is well-balanced (and you can easily eat more than one). The gelato is made from young coconuts, which provide a sweeter pulp. It holds together better than ice cream, and this means you can take your time savouring the way it complements the

crispy, warm confection beneath, without worrying that it will become a melted mess.

And while we’re on the subject of nontraditional waffle varieties, stuffing one with cream cheese and chives and topping it with smoked salmon (VND80,000) is a delicious savoury twist on the traditionally sweet dish. In order to make this work, Duy tells me they created a special batter with onion and basil that would complement the salty, tangy toppings. If you’re still hungry, have a pizza waffle, too (VND80,000).

Other notable menu options include a decadent take on the classic English dessert, Banoffee (VND70,000): buttery, dense shortcake nestled between caramelised bananas, coffee, and homemade whipped cream, topped with granola, and the mountain

cake (VND35,000), reminiscent of a giant, vanilla eclair, paired with strawberry sauce.

Stuffed to the brim with all that deliciousness, I decided that the salmon waffle is something that I need regularly in my life, possibly once a week, or more.

Thankfully, Duy informed me that they have a loyalty programme for new addicts such as myself, and student discounts to reward the hard-working scholars of Hanoi. Now all we need is a location in Tay Ho, and I’ll never have to endure the horrors of waffle withdrawal. — Jesse Meadows wannawaffle? has three locations in Hanoi: 27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem; 138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; and Unit 108, Indochina Plaza, 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay. You can also find them online at facebook.com/wannawaffle

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 159

TOP EATS HIGHWAY 4

I

n among the bustle of downtown Hoan Kiem lives Highway 4, an elegant yet laid-back setting with a knockout menu and an impressive selection of award-winning traditional rice liquors, all under the roof of a renovated French villa dating back to the 1950s; yellow brick with an inviting sign hanging over the door, nestled in green ivy.

Once inside, Highway 4 offers multiple storeys of carefully crafted atmosphere. The first floor doesn’t leave much space to walk around, a few rich wooden benches stand between busy walls — old paintings and maps of Hanoi provide a visual reminder of the city’s history, and plants and candles add

160 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

to the comfortable feel.

“Highway 4 isn’t just about the food or the drink, it’s about the experience,” says owner Dan Dockery, and it’s easy to see what he’s getting at. The restaurant has a down-toearth feel about it, the kind of place you can sit down with friends and family to enjoy each other’s company. Highway 4’s food menu is largely comprised of Vietnamese meze style dishes giving a real essence of communal dining, and offers a huge variety of traditional fare inspired from all regions of Vietnam.

Combination The first dish that I eat is one that has

become something of a sensation among Hanoi’s food lovers — the mouthwatering Highway 4 catfish spring rolls (VND68,000). Their reputation is well deserved; this is a traditional dish with a twist. Delicious catfish with fresh dill and mayonnaise are wrapped in rice paper and accompanied by a sensational oyster sauce and wasabi dip. The influence of French and Japanese cuisine on this traditional Vietnamese dish is certainly noticeable — it’s a combination like no other.

After finishing my first plate I try one of Highway4’s award-winning rice liquors under the Son Tinh brand name, a 375ml bottle of which costs between VND228,000

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

and VND378,000. There are 12 flavours to choose from, ranging from apricot to white ginseng. The Son Tinh Distillery is located less than 30km from Hoan Kiem Lake and Son Tinh is Vietnam’s first and only internationally awarded liquor brand, honoured with a hatful of medals at liquor competitions as far apart as the UK, Austria, Hong Kong, Australia and the USA. The liquor is a warm and smooth complement to the meal, and the flavours only increase my appetite.

Chirp and chatter My next course is pork hanger steak grilled with talauma seeds (VND128,000). This

often overlooked but delicious cut of pork is flavour enhanced all the more by the presence of the rare talauma seeds native to northern Vietnam. On the side I order a plate of crickets roasted with lemon leaves (VND68,000). Both plates are full of flavour and are accompanied with a variety of fresh herbs and salad. The crickets, one of Highway 4’s more exotic plates, make a welcome treat to snack on under the canopy of chatter and the faint but present buzz of Hanoi’s Old Quarter outside.

Highway 4 has something to offer for every diner, its range of meze-style plates, rice and noodle dishes, salads, broths and exotic specials are an exhibition for the

tastebuds and the wonderfully unique and flavoursome Son Tinh sticky rice liquor is a perfect sidekick for a friendly gathering.

The staff is friendly, the atmosphere is warm, and the food is excellent. Vietnam has some great cuisine, but it’s often scattered here and there, individual dishes reserved to out of the way places. Highway 4 is a hub of Vietnamese flavours all in one place. — Billy Gray The Highway 4 I visited is located at 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem. They have three other restaurants in Hanoi: 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem and 101 Tran Thai Tong, Cau Giay. You can find them online at highway4.com/en

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 161

MEDICAL BUFF WORMS

L

iving in Vietnam; travelling through Asia; enjoying street food; children and play dates; family pets — these all mean that at one time you will have to research and ask for assistance regarding worms.

People can become infected with a variety of worms such as roundworms, hookworms, thread worm and tapeworms.

Nearly half the world's population — more than 3 billion people — are infected with at least one of the three main parasites — large roundworms, hookworms and whipworms. They all wriggle, look like white cotton thread and hatch eggs in the host.

Their Favourite Places Air. Some worm eggs are so small and light they can be carried through the air by high wind and then can become attached to an unsuspecting host.

Food. Fruit and vegetables can be grown near or in contaminated soil; then picked by people who have contaminated soil on their hands.

Ground. Worms can enter the body through the feet; a healthy foot or a cut foot will give parasites a chance. If you walk barefoot anywhere there are animal faeces, a swampy moist area, puddles, a dirty locker room or dirty beaches, you could become infected Animals. Family pets need to be wormed regularly, as they can easily become hosts; by walking through infected areas; eating soil infected with worms' eggs, suckling contaminated mothers and eating infected animals.

162 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Signs of Worms within a Human Body There are many symptoms you can experience as a result of worms and parasites. These include: Chronic fatigue, depression, lethargy, irritability, insomnia, always hungry, teeth grinding while sleeping, craving sugar and starchy carbohydrate foods, aching and swollen joints, food sensitivities, constipation, diarrhoea, itching rectum, weight loss and vague fuzzy thoughts, weight gain and feeling spaced out, stomach gas, an inability to concentrate, water retention, a lack of focus, cysts, anaemia, dark circles under eyes and bulging eyes.

BY DR. MICHAEL E SANTOS

Insist that people who prepare your food also follow a sensible guide to clean hands, clean nails before preparing food.

Why Antibiotics May Not Work Worms and parasites reproduce by dropping a reproductive cell within your body called a spore. These spores just sit and wait, maybe up to five to six weeks, then the spore becomes a new worm.

There is a range of proper treatments for an active infection and there are different antibiotics for different stages. Talk with your doctor before starting a new course.

Drug Treatment

Rebuilding

It is best to treat the entire family in one go, but always speak with your doctor to begin the first treatment and then you can easily get repeat prescriptions over the counter.

Once you have completed the elimination of worms and parasites, and cleansed the poisons from your body, it’s important to remember your organs and systems are quite damaged by these pests and the poisons they leave in your body.

Consider lifestyle changes — taking powerful probiotics and enzymes are a possibility for the duration of a rebuilding programme. Supplements of vitamins and minerals can help in some cases.

It is recommended de-worming should be done approximately every six months to get rid of any pests living inside us, especially if you love your regular street food.

Dr Michael E Santos is a general practitioner for Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For more advice on any medical topics, visit Family Medical Practice Hanoi on 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh or call (04) 3843 0748. FMP’s Ho Chi Minh City clinics are at Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1; 95 Thao Dien, Q2

Who Must See a Doctor — Planning a pregnancy, pregnant or breast feeders — Children under two years of age — People with epilepsy, a gut blockage, liver disease or severely decreased kidney functions — People with neurological diseases — Patients with complications should be seen by a doctor — With persistent reinfections, you could be referred to a parasitologist.

Prevention Always wash your hands and nails thoroughly before preparing food, especially if you are working outside or have soil under your nails.

Hanoi On the Town

changing imagery on the walls.

MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL

The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470

mooseandroo.com

There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides.

Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town.

NAMASTE HANOI

PANE E VINO

THE CART

PAN-ITALIAN

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ

facebook.com/panevinoHN

thecartfood.com

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.

Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

namastehanoi.com

The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts.

NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India.

In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it.

NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801

nineteen11.com.vn

Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery.

The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier.

OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE

4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337

hanoixua.vn/en

Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout.

Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.

The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO

67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA

1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) COM RANG DUA BO

THE KAFE

57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

PIZZA 4P’S JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444

pizza4ps.com

Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local ingredients.

PAN-INDIAN

46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513

20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh

POTS ‘N PANS CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204

potsnpans.vn

Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

PRESS CLUB CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888

hanoi-pressclub.com

Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245

thekafe.vn

MIEN TRON HANH MIXED GLASS NOODLES

Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem

WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718

PHO CUON HUNG BEN

MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES

54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO

48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem

PHO CUON

26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN

247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com/zenith-cafe

A vegetarian and vegan café connected to Zenith Yoga that respects yoga philosophy. Simple living, mindful thinking and 100 percent natural ingredients, all the food here is served up without additional additives or MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. All dishes are made in house.

STREETFOOD

PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA

7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA

1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO

49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO

10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO

13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO

5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem

3 CHI EM SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355

sainthonore.com.vn

This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times.

PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM

18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho

PHO TU LUN PHO BO

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem BANH CUON HANG GA BANH CUON

14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem

XOI HANG HOM STICKY RICE

44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem BANH DA TRON BANH DA TRON

6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho BANH MI 25 STREETSIDE BANH MI

25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem BIT TET NGON SO 5 VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK

164 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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Business Buff / Body and Temple / The Gym Diaries / Bar Stool / Amazing Grapes / Know Your City / Top Eats 1 / Top Eats 2 / A World of Good Photo by Kyle Phanroy 166 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

HCMC Essentials

BAKERIES ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ

223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1

phamngulao.abcbakery.co

Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available.

BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam.

French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint.

Has over 25 locations in Vietnam.

HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY

harvestbaking.net

With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details.

L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072

lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS BAKERY & CAFE

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

touslesjoursbakery.com

The background of this Korean bakery chain makes

pnc.com.vn

Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese.

Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.

M M M VOELKER BAKERY

39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066

voelker-vietnam.com

French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

M M M

breadtalkvietnam.com

A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting.

Thanh Ton, Q1

BOOKSHOPS FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1

fahasa.com

Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts.

LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes.

A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046

sbghcm.org

M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

BUSINESS GROUPS ANUPA ECO LUXE AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

amchamvietnam.com

LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394

anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912

This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430

BAM SKATE SHOP

auschamvn.org

bbgv.org

CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754

canchamvietnam.org

Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922

nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045

pbgvn.com

SKATEWEAR / STREET

174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826

Bamskateshop.com.vn BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING

1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GINKGO

DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5.

Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING

10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928

ginkgo-vietnam.com

Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701

ipa-nima.com

LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY

SHOPPING MALLS

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565

lusinespace.com

Exclusive labels, elegant and

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

BUSINESS BUFF DON’T BE SO SCARED IN 2016

BY SHANE DILLON

I

n my lifetime I have seen the mainstream media morph into an almost non-stop fear generating machine. It would appear that weekly there is a new threat to my imminent safety.

I work in the health insurance industry and I have a fairly solid understanding of risk to your well-being, and while it is good advice to heed the wise words I heard in a movie recently — “Hope for the best, prepare for the worst” — this month I have collected some facts that prove the world is not as scary as some would want you to think it is.

Overpopulation Scared of overpopulation? You shouldn’t be — the whole world, all 7 billion of us, could fit into the size of Texas with a population density about the same as New York City.

Terrorism If you live in the US you are more likely to be shot by a toddler with a gun than a terrorist.

Computer Viruses You are more likely to get a computer virus from visiting a church website than any other by a factor of three. This is thought to be because church sites rely on volunteers for maintenance who often have limited if any online security skills.

Heights There are many examples of people falling from great heights and surviving. Vesna Vulovic fell over 10km to earth after the plane she was travelling in fell apart.

Despite hitting the ground at terminal velocity she survived and recovered from her injuries. She holds the world record for greatest fall without a parachute and is still alive today.

Sharks According to Freakonomics more people were killed by vending machines last year than by sharks. Falling coconuts also killed more people worldwide than shark attacks.

Serving in the armed forces At least for US servicemen and women, the civilian statistics are quite alarming with more people being killed inside the US each year than the total of service personnel killed in both the Iraq and Afghan wars since they started in 2001 and 2003.

Spiders In the USA, about seven people die each year from spider bites — normally

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children or the elderly in remote locations.

In Australia the infamous funnel-web spider, the most poisonous spider in the world, has killed exactly zero people in the last 30 years.

Dangerous Animals Every year, deer kill more people than bears, dogs, wolves, sharks, alligators, bees, scorpions and spiders combined. This is because of the nature of a deer’s body and the fact that most interactions happen in car crashes with the deer ending up flying through the windshield into the passengers.

Rats Rats are actually being trained in parts of Africa to detect landmines and will save countless number of limbs this year from their efforts.

Dogs Statistically more people die from the sunshine (excessive natural heat) than from dog attacks each year.

Crazy people on the plane More relevant maybe for us who live in Asia (and fly Vietnam Airlines), the possibility of someone actually opening the door midflight is almost zero. The cabin pressure holds the doors shut so tightly that it would be impossible for someone to open the door while the plane is airborne.

Tarantulas No one has ever died by being bitten by a tarantula as the amount of venom they release is not even comparable to a bee sting.

They are basically furry, eight-legged cats.

Bee Swarms When you see a swarm of bees they are normally searching for a new hive and actually at their least aggressive as there are no baby bees or food supplies to protect.

Spiders In the 2011 tsunami that hit Japan, a great fear in the aftermath was the spread of malaria. An unlikely hero saved the day when all the spiders swarmed into the trees covering entire forests with their webs.

Despite the scene looking incredibly scary the spiders killed off the mosquitos that were expected to multiply and spread the malaria.

Lightning Each year about 40 people are killed by lightning worldwide, compared with over 100 who die from choking on the lids of their pens.

Vampire Bats The majority of bats don’t feed on blood, but on nectar from fruits and insects. They are actually one of the best forms of pest control and are more like bees and butterflies of the night than something that will do you harm.

Airplane Crashes Even in the Asiana 214 flight that crashed in 2013, 304 of the 307 survived the impact.

In the highly unlikely event of a plane crash over 90% of the passengers involved normally survive. In the Air France 358 crash all the 309 people on board survived.

Shane is now fearful of coconuts and vending machines. He can be contacted hiding under his desk at shanedillon@pacificcross.com

sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn

TAILOR-MADE SHOES

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267 ORANGE BUDGET CLOTHING

152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620

9am to 10pm PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING

CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en

232 Bui Vien, Q1

LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485

saigoncookingclass.com

Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349

vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

papaya-tshirt.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE

T&V TAILOR

ATC FURNITURE

TAILORS

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE

39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556

268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946

triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588

Ubesthouse.com VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

KOREAN AIR koreanair.com

multinational cuisine days.

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364

ambrij.com

A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM, corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts from international brands like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix, Ungaro and more. Also do event management services.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734

overlandclub.jp

The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and

atc-craft.com

AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023

austinhomeinteriors.com

This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

CHI LAI HOME FURNISHINGS

175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543

chilai.com

This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

EM EM SOUVENIRS

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408

8am to 9.30pm

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 169

BODY

AND

TEMPLE

BODY TYPING

BY PHIL KELLY

Y

ou have most likely heard of body-type categories before.

The most common names are ectomorph, endomorph and mesomorph. We can also go further and define your type based on fuel as a muscle, mixed or sugar burner. Body types can also be categorised through hormones via being an adrenal, pituitary, thyroid or gonad type.

All these different names discuss the same three to four body types.

All these types are general indications of how your metabolism, hormones, nervous system and fuel systems operate.

The categories give us great insight into how your body functions; we can use this information to align your nutrition and exercise to get the best results. Types are just starting points — great points of reference to begin your plan.

It is also important to realise that all these types can actually become obese. For example, someone could be overweight but actually be an ectomorph body type.

Think of these types as underlying ways our bodies prefer to work but through lifestyle, nutrition and exercise you can affect the natural tendencies of your body. Certain body types respond better to starches by burning them for fuel and others very poorly by predominantly storing them as fat. Certain types respond better to higher volume resistance workouts with minimal rest periods where others develop better gains from more intensive heavy weights with longer rest periods.

1) Ectomorph (Muscle Burner / Thyroid) This type tends to be thyroid and sympathetic nervous system (SNS) dominant with either a higher output or higher sensitivity to catecholamines like adrenaline and noradrenaline. This profile is linked to a fast metabolic rate and a high carbohydrate tolerance. Their “metabolic motor runs at high revs”.

They are generally tall, usually lean and have faster metabolisms. Character traits are that they generally fidget and move around a lot because their sympathetic nervous system (SNS) is dominant. If this type has become fat they generally are “wired on the inside, tired on the outside” and have an appearance of flabby fat. They trend to crave sugar, salt and alcohol. They don’t tend to do well on coffee, as it over-hypes them and can drop their blood sugar levels due to a higher cortisol response. They should replace coffee with drinks and foods that restore the SNS, consume foods high in magnesium and look

170 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

to balance blood sugar levels. An ectomorphic type is better suited for a higher starch but lower fat diet.

They are a great fit for a Paleo diet where fat is prioritised over starch.

2) Mesomorph (Mixed Burner / Adrenal)

Gonad types tend to gain weight on the lower body, the saddlebags on the sides of the thighs and buttocks. Oestrogen dominance and an inability to eliminate oestrogens and toxins from the body is a trait of this type. Females possess a high number of alpha-receptors in the thigh, which bind very well to oestrogens.

Gonads are sometimes more of a night owl than a morning person. They tend to have stable energy, as the day progresses their energy increases. Those that have low blood sugar or hypoglycaemia will tend to have an energy crash around 4pm.

Boosting liver function and focusing on steady and continuous detoxification is important for gonads to help eliminate toxins that accumulate more easily than with others.

They should consume foods containing the chemical indole-carbinol-3, which binds to oestrogens to help clear them from the body.

The strength and power build. This type has no real genetic predispositions; lifestyle has the biggest impact on body fat storage.

They tend to be testosterone and growth hormone dominant and thus can usually gain muscle and stay lean easily. They have no real problem with foods, have mixed cravings, however they can have issues with insulin and stress hormones. Moderate starch intake works well and usually conforms to a zone diet concept. If overweight, simply normalising diet and lifestyle issues tend to produce great results.

3) Endomorph (Sugar Burner / Pituitary) Unlike the ectomorph the endomorph metabolic speed is set to “idle”. They tend to be parasympathetic dominant and naturally less active. They have a genetic predisposition to gain weight and be resistant to fat loss. They have an appearance to be muscular and fat.

Endomorphs can do well on coffee to counter act the parasympathetic nervous system dominance. They tend to be deficient in serotonin, GABA, dopamine and acetylcholine. Cocoa, branched-chain amino acids (BCAA), tyrosine, 5-HTP and GABA herbs are great nutrients that can really aid an endomorphic body type lose fat. They have to be very careful with dairy and fruit, eat low starch, and eat at frequent regular times.

4) Gonad (female only — pear shape)

********** Understanding the basic guidelines regarding how your body’s metabolism, nervous system, hormones and fuel systems operate is a great place to start. However, over time we could be a mix of these types.

Nothing is set in stone and we must become intuitive, fat-loss detectives to learn what is best for our individual and unique bodies.

Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC Essentials

FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above.

MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-creations.org NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS

2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459

8am to 8pm

MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS

1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-quilts.org

Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam.

Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale.

SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114

xedapcaocap.com

Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides.

Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs.

THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405

thebikeshopvn.com

The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2.

Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories.

Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals.

Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.

M M M NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115

nhaxinh.com

REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190

DENTAL CLINICS ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800

accadent.com

remixdeco.com

THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS

ELITE DENTAL GROUP.

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 3737

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics.

Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788

thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

firstBIKE.com.vn

FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM

384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3

jett-cycles.com

The showroom home of Jett

info@elitedental.com.vn elitedental.com.vn

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 171

HCMC Essentials

skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC

MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399

STARLIGHT CLINIC

DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien,Q2

starlightdental.net

Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777

westcoastinternational.com

An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS

Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100

maplehealthcare.net

Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.

M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431

cthomasgallery.com

Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. Now has a second newer gallery

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CLASSIC FINE FOODS GROCERIES & IMPORTER

dogmacollection.com

The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate.

Sells prints of the originals and related products.

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105

classicfinefoods.com

Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441

baotangmythuattphcm.vn

Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions.

MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565

meatworksasia.com

Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.

PHUONG HA SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059

san-art.org

San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

GROCERY & DELI

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630

Annam-gourmet.com

Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.

astere@hotmail.fr

ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353

SAIGON RAIDERS

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038

Saigonraiders.com SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7

saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com

deepteshgill@gmail.com

SPORTS — GENERAL

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090

samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com

GROCERS

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products.

THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

CRICKET

richard.car rington@ market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

galeriequynh.com

In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

SPORTS

15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010

suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034

npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598

manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL & RUGBY VEGGY’S GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899

James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

Saigon-ultimate.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794

xrockclimbing.com

HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671

avedaherbal@gmail.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926

catmocspa.com

Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625

Conceptcoiffure.vn

Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827

famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368

glowsaigon.com

Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

HAIR BAR

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737

Jasminespa.vn

Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails.

Cheap prices, too.

SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575

spatropic.com

Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930

www.acc.vn

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery.

CONTEMPORARY SALON

68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108

hairbar.vn

A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188

Indochine-spa.com.vn

Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759

americaneyecentervn.com

American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366

cmi-vietnam.com

This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000

vietnammedicalpractice.com

Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500

fvhospital.com

International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167

fvhospital.com

State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068

hanhphuchospital.com

Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1

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HCMC Essentials

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999

sianclinic.com

The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990

stamfordskin.com

Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE

187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

INSURANCE BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor, Continental Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9908

bluecross.com.vn

Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.

Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362

insuranceinasia.com

Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998

libertyinsurance.com.vn

International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more.

NOAH JAMES INSURANCE AGENCY Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858

noahjamesinsurance.com Skype: jp.global

A full service broker offering expatriates and local Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for life, health, travel, as well as speciality cover for student travel, medevac, international marine, extreme athletics and adventure. For details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance.com

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545

victoriavn.com

Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367

ten-pac.com

A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36

theabcis.com

Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools worldwide. ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA, the Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040

aisvietnam.com

The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335

bisvietnam.com

Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school

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KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490

dancentervn.com

Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780

helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700

Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691

Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679

paa.com.vn

Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722

saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360

Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846

vin-space.com

to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944

kidsclubsaigon.com

Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five.

Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081

cis.edu.vn

The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a newly built campus.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

ishcmc.com

HCMC’s most established international school offers three International Baccalaureate programmes for students from two to 18 years old. ISHCMC will be launching a new secondary campus in 2017, featuring Vietnam’s first Innovation Center, a 350-seat professional theatre, NBA-sized basketball courts and a 25m competitive swimming pool.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY — AMERICAN ACADEMY 16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

aavn.edu.vn

ISHCMC — American Academy is a U.S. curriculum secondary school for students aged 11 to 18 years old. Early university credits, a 1:1 University Counseling Program, and an extensive EAL program set our graduates on the road to 100% acceptance rate at overseas universities and a US$1 million scholarship fund.

based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

saigonkidskindergarten.com

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99

issp.edu.vn

Vietnam’s only international school offering a U.S. curriculum for children aged 18 months to 11 years old.

With 100% English language immersion, a library containing over 13,500 English books and more than 60% of students achieving above grade level English, ISSP students are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or ISHCMC - American Academy.

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257

eishcmc.com

The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network.

The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639

montessori.edu.vn

Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122

renaissance.edu.vn

Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum

SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901

ssis.edu.vn

Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827

saigonstarschool.edu.vn

Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236

smartkidsinfo.com

This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223

tas.edu.vn

Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 175

THE GYM DIARIES PART 5

Sometimes when you try to do something you hit a brick wall. After four months of trying to get into shape, Owen Salisbury has done just that.

Yet he’s not prepared to give up

L

ife is a funny old thing — a politer way of saying that whirlwinds of crazy and awful can descend without warning. Put simply, getting the shit kicked out of me opened my eyes to a very real health risk I may face, and one that men around the world are facing in ever-greater numbers.

After four months of working out, not as regularly as I should, without moderating my diet as I should, yes, and with an unplanned two-week hiatus, I have not seen all the types of results I should. We’re all different, and we all develop at different rates.

And yet this is worrying. Luckily, trainer Dan knew all about it; he’d been through something similar.

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When Things Don’t Go Right, Learn Why Let’s take stock again. After these four irregular months of lifting weights three days a week, I am putting up double, even triple the weight I did when I began. My endurance is up — I keep up with Dan’s workouts. My sleep is better; my chronic shoulder injury doesn’t hurt.

All good so far, right? This is about where you should be, if a bit on the lower side of expected gains.

What hasn’t happened are the things I most wanted when I began. My health is still crap. I am sick as I write this; I have spent six of the last seven months battling one infection after another. I still feel

awful; my energy levels are still low, even my ability to concentrate has taken a hit.

Hell, even the fat-loss and muscle building have slowed. After four months, people cannot tell I go to the gym regularly by sight. This is, in a word, humiliating.

Or, to use the word Dan tells me: “Testosterone.”

The Decline and Fall of Testosterone Specifically, low levels of it — something that affects millions of men in the US alone, and is getting worse. Since the 1980s, according to a study by Dr. Thomas Travison of the New England Research

BY OWEN SALISBURY

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

Institutes in the US, the average level of testosterone dropped in US men by about 1% per year. In other words, an American man in the 1980s had roughly 30% more testosterone on average than an American man today. No conclusive cause has been found, and studies in other countries show similar results.

“Testosterone is essentially the essence of manhood,” Daniele says when he brings it up.

Mr. T We all know about testosterone in a vague way. After age 30, it declines by about one percent a year. For some men, levels can drop precipitously. Injuries to the testicles

can do it, as can head injuries, diseases like HIV/AIDS and tuberculosis (neither of which I have, thank you.)

It can also decline for no reason. The effects can be harsh.

“Without it a man cannot exercise his masculinity and will fall prey to extended bouts of depression, lethargy, emotional instability, irritability, decreased sexual desire and performance, attention deficits as well as a complete loss of joie de vivre,” says Daniele.

It’s frightening how well the list of symptoms fit. Not completely, but enough.

If your life doesn’t change when you hit the gym and work on your diet, keep looking.

One More Possibility Any number of other conditions could cause them, but it’s one more possibility to tick off as I try to get my quality of life back. That’s my goal. Do things thoroughly where your health is concerned.

So, I’m looking into HRT at the ripe old age of 37.

Will it work? Do I need it? Who knows.

I thought the gym alone would work, yet here I am, after four months, still looking for answers. The lesson, of course; don’t give up.

I’ve got two months left in this experiment. There’s time to turn this franchise around, especially if the testosterone tip pays off.

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 177

HCMC Essentials

a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.

Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions.

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694

easysaigon.com

The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.

Enquiries via their website are welcome.

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700

namhouse.com.vn

Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855

residentvietnam.com

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282

snap.com.vn

Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

THE NEST 216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 580800

thenesthousing.com

Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS

185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446

chiscafe.com

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SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273

nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com

Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices.

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS

77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690

saigonscootercentre.com

Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs.

Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.

M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430

adecco.com.vn

Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions.

Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071

agsfourwinds.com

A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220

alliedpickfords.com

With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799

asiantigers-mobility.com

Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.

Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network.

Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

hr2b.com

vieclambank.com

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373

vietnamworks.com

The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many.

Also a good site for expat jobseekers.

logicalmoves.net

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065

santaferelo.com

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

Email Vietnam@santaferelo. com for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678

the-ascott.com

Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888

intercontinental.com/saigonres

Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111

norfolkmansion.com.vn

Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

Riverside-apartments.com

Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment.

Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288

sherwoodresidence.com

Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922

somerset.com

Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city.

Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

EXILE INK 608

57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956

exileinkvietnam.com SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311

saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090

tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339

xamnghethuat.vn TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838

tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383

xamphunnghethuat. com

Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel.

They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon.

For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425

cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521

lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567

galaxycine.vn IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451

idecaf.gov.vn

CGV CINEMAS

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388

SPORTS & FITNESS CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620

laholista.com

Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE HEALTH CLUB & GYM

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership.

STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

THE LANDMARK CLUB GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTRE BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326

cyril-and-you.com

This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day.

No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run

by Cyril himself.

In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM

Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612

facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn

A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).

VETERINARY CLINICS ANIMAL DOCTORS INTERNATIONAL 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2. (08) 6260 3980

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168

vlstudies.com

Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

SPORTS GARMENTS

animaldoctors.vn

Offers the very highest levels of compassionate, competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh City with international veterinary surgeons. Upholding international standards, the team works tirelessly to help clients with the support of a dedicated surgical suite, digital X-Ray and comprehensive diagnostic facilities.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771

SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

vietnameselanguagegarden. com

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672

nutrifort.com

A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals.

SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonhash.com

Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km.

VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run.

SHERATON FITNESS HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

cgv.vn

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BAR STOOL SNUFFBOX

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

H

idden away on the first floor of a dilapidated residential block in old Saigon, Snuffbox offers a unique space. Making the most of its modest square footage, this newly opened watering hole boasts a well-balanced mix of upmarket antique furniture, velvet ropes and industrial urban design.

For anyone who read Raising the Bar (July, 2015), it’s an aesthetic reminiscent of Melbourne institution the Gin Palace. Focused on a well-stocked bar, a private mezzanine level adds to the loft-feel of the venue, and the whole place is mood-lit by feature walls and intricately designed ceiling lights.

Keen to make a name for themselves in the drinks department, the first cocktail that came was the boulevardier (VND130,000). A sophisticated bourbon-based sipper cut with Campari and sweet vermouth, it delivered an earthy smokiness and zesty finish. It was

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also presented with the flair you’d expect from Diageo Vietnam Top 5 bartender Tony, well known all over town.

Nailing It This was followed up by the Smoky Milky (VND180,000), which featured the same bourbon base over a Talisker single malt scotch, pineapple juice, ginger, lime juice and honey. If it sounds good, be assured that it tastes even better. After these were polished off, finally came the gin fizz (VND150,000) which was simplicity done well, and a perfect way to leave us wanting more.

Sitting back in the comfortable couch, Snuffbox is a classy mix of colour and textures that will put you in the mood for a relaxing good time.

Certainly that’s the hope of co-owner Charles Carlyle, a corporate wellness expert from Miami by day, and burgeoning venue

owner by night. His concept is to create a speakeasy vibe with chilled tunes and highquality drinks. With theme nights giving a nod to the jazz aesthetic and the Roaring 20s, he’s confident that he and his team have created something people will be happy to seek out.

“There are a lot of late night spots,” Charles says, “but none that any of my friends want to go to.”

This venture is about changing that, as well as ‘nailing’ the best classic cocktails in town.

“That’s something we want to be known for,” Charles says. On top of that, they’re also looking at brewing their own beers off-site, and may consider bringing in some absinthe later on. — Jon Aspin SnuffBox is at 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, HCMC. It is open every day from 2pm to 4am. You can find them online at facebook.com/snuffbox

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 181

HCMC On The Town

BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars.

Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

BROMA, NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail.

BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR

7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345

Buddhabarsaigon.com APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB

2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124

apocalypsesaigon.com

An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back.

BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR

90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588

biacraft.com

As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu.

BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB

95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD

40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452

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Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR

45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4202 A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene, Champion is located in the Backpackers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. Also has a pool table, darts, tasty Western and Vietnamese food, great cocktails and ice cold beer. Western managed, wonderful local staff. #BeAChampion.

out their daily food specials.

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE

EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR

Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience.

Night live music and DJs. GAME ON SPORTS BAR

115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898

gameonsaigon.com

A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.

HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605

hoavien.vn

The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer.

ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR

24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports.

CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon.

One of the top watering holes in the city.

55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack?

A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check

59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122

lastcallsaigon.com

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE

LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.

Tel: 0906 912730

www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030

www.dominos.vn LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR

207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

MAY RESTAURANT & BAR LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

EAT.VN www.eat.vn

HUNGRYPANDA. VN

www.hungrypanda.vn KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999

www.kfcvietnam. com.vn

mayrestaurant.com.vn

An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space.

LOTTERIA

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388

www.pizzahut.vn NUMBER FIVE

LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180

lahabana-saigon.com

Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel.

Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

D2 SPORTS BAR

LAST CALL

LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

EXPAT BAR

44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music.

OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

O’BRIEN’S IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:

SCOOZI

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com

(08) 3829 3198

irish-barsaigon.com

This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

PEACHES CURRY PUB

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.

PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS

46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796

phattysbar.com

From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON OUTCAST EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198

Saigonoutcast.com

Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets.

menu. A good place to watch the live sports.

THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR

31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798

VINYL BAR

A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

vinylbarsaigon.com

facebook.com/thecubesaigon

SAIGON RANGER ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559

facebook.com/saigonranger

Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR

THE OBSERVATORY

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 THE ORIENT

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

BAR, ART & DJ SPACE

LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

caravellehotel.com

cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and Germaninfluenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1

facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon

An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

wineembassy.com.vn

A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468

xusaigon.com

This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a

SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR

PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520

facebook.com/PitchersPMH

Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.

61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1

shrinebarsaigon.com

Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings.

With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR

S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks.

SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY POOL & DAY CLUB

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1

saigonsoul.com

The ultimate in poolside entertainment, Saigon Soul is defined by its great party atmosphere. Booming house music, cold drinks and beautiful people. What better way to spend a Saturday? Runs every Saturday from late November until mid May.

THEMED MUSIC BAR

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999

facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM

Designed as a Laneway-style restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007

seventeensaloon.com.vn

Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL

5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738

Stormp.vn

Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food

THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

A sophisticated yet down-to-earth

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AMAZING GRAPES ABC: ANYTHING BUT CHARDONNAY

I

was talking with a customer the other day and when I asked what wine she would like to drink, she proudly proclaimed that she was a member of the ABC club.

“I drink anything but Chardonnay,” she said defiantly. This is not the first time I have encountered this kind of proud hatred for one of the world’s most noble grapes, but it reminded me of how polarised wine trends can be. Not so long ago drinkers from all corners of the globe could not get enough Chardonnay, yet now you are deemed a pariah for drinking it. How did this happen? I, for one, love Chardonnay.

Chardonnay is the white grape variety of the Burgundy region in France (with

BY JIM CAWOOD

that there they used a little oak, malolactic and barrel fermentation to make very interesting and complex wines. Struggling to achieve this, they followed the notion that if you use a little, then a lot would surely reap a wine of great character. They were right; it did. The problem was that they had too much flavour and character, so that nobody could finish a bottle.

By the mid-1990s Chardonnay had become big, fat, oaky, buttery, rich and round. Not surprisingly people soon got sick of buying bottles that they could not finish and Chardonnay suffered a massive backlash. This was compounded by the arrival on the world stage of the tropical fruit bombs that were Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc.

“Chardonnay is well and truly on the comeback trail. The wines are food-friendly, cellar worthy and very interesting to drink” one or two exceptions). The greatest, most expensive white wines in the world from Burgundian sub-regions such as Chablis, Meursault, Montrachet and Corton are made from it. With the exception of perhaps Riesling and Semillon, it produces wines that can age longer than any other white variety.

It is relatively easy to grow and thus is found growing in vineyards all around the world.

A Malleable Grape

Made in France. Alcoholic Volume, 13%

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The fact that Chardonnay is an easy grape to grow is ultimately what has led to legions of ABC devotees. Chardonnay vines have been cultivated in Burgundy for more than 1,000 years, but they are fairly recent in countries like Australia, New Zealand, Chile and the US. In fact, the first commercial bottling of ‘chardy’ in Australia was only released in 1971 by Tyrrell’s. Many other wineries soon followed suit and the race to emulate the great wines of France was on.

Chardonnay is classified as a nonaromatic variety which means it is very neutral with basic fruit flavours like peach, apple, pear, grapefruit, nuts and figs.

Although it is neutral, it is malleable and often requires quite intensive winemaking, such as time in oak barrels to add structure and tannin, barrel fermentation to add complexity, and malolactic fermentation to add a creamy or buttery element.

As Chardonnay started to take off in the new world, winemakers sought inspiration from the great wines of Burgundy. They saw

A Rennaissance Things however have changed. New World winemakers have learnt from their mistakes and toned down their styles.

They have learnt to harness the fruit and subtle complexity that Chardonnay can offer, without heavy-handed manipulation in the winery. Now it is much more common to see descriptors like elegant, restrained, subtle and fine used to describe Chardonnay wines.

Chardonnay is well and truly on the comeback trail. The wines are food-friendly, cellar worthy and very interesting to drink.

The members of the ABC club should be getting worried because I feel that soon the ABS (Anything But Sauvignon Blanc) club may soon have more members as wine trends constantly evolve. But it is all a bit silly. If you like it, drink it and don’t worry about what other people think.

Louis Jadot ‘Couvent Des Jacobins’ Chardonnay 2013 This is a fantastic entry-level offering from one of the world’s great white winemakers.

Sourced from vineyards across the region, it bursts with bright, fresh peaches ‘n cream flavours. Very judicious use of oak adds a little complexity and length to the palate. A beautiful wine for a roast chicken at home with good friends.

Jim Cawood is a trained sommelier and is presently man-at-the-helm at District 2 restaurant, Lubu

HCMC On The Town

range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

M M M CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm.

BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003

sam.nguyen197@gmail.com

A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657

cafethoaivien.com

Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL

157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1

coffeebean.com.vn

Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL

79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115

Decibel.vn

Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830

guanabanasmoothies.com

An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.

HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222

Hideawaycafe-saigon.com

Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair.

I.D. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE

34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910

Idcafe.net

Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers cas-

ual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH

First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703

lusinespace.com

French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi. M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495

facebook.com/m2ccafe

At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400

THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330

themorningcafe.com.vn

Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272

facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe

Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee

THE PRINT ROOM

PLANTRIP CHA

158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

CONTEMPORARY CAFE

TEA ROOM

8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East.

conversations held over a drink or two.

M M M EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ

Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution.

27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere.

Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL

27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424

alfrescosgroup.com

The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.

ASHOKA NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177

Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality

Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

facebook.com/thingscafe

ashokaindianrestaurant. com

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 185

KNOW YOUR CITY THE ACCIDENTAL BOULEVARD

BY ED HAYSOM

Nguyen Hue in the late 19th century when it was still a canal

N

guyen Hue, one of the most successful military commanders in Vietnamese history, and an emperor of the Tan Son Dynasty, has a major street in almost every Vietnamese city named after him. Yet the one in Ho Chi Minh City is perhaps the best known.

The street had very prosaic beginnings and perhaps only now is worthy enough to be named in his honour.

When the French invaded Vietnam in 1859, their choice of city in Southern Vietnam was influenced by the strategic location of a fishing village known as Prey Nokor and the Bat Quai Citadel close by.

They named it Saigon — it is believed this was a derivation of the colloquial name given to the area by Chinese settlers.

The French military built the city to urban design principles introduced by Haussmann in Paris in 1853. The boulevards of Saigon were formed for military as well as other reasons: connecting the military quickly with the port and the interior; wide enough to prevent insurrections blocking them; dealing with a contemporary theory that disease was spread by “bad air”, and providing ceremonial places and grandness exemplifying the French empire.

Nguyen Hue was not one of those early boulevards, as it didn’t connect the military with their headquarters at the port. Instead, it was a waterway. Its canal allowed goods to be conveyed from the merchant port up to the high ground of the French

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civic centre. It also consisted of two roads straddling the canal.

The early French settlement used existing canals for transportation and added some of their own. For health and safety reasons, they were almost all closed including, in 1867, a portion of Nguyen Hue near Le Loi that had become polluted. On doing so the width of Nguyen Hue was found to be too small to retain two roads plus add buildings between them, so it became one road and renamed as a single street, Charner Boulevard. The rest of Charner closer to the port was filled in later in the 19th Century.

Rebirth and Renovation Nguyen Hue’s DNA has always been mercantile, and as the city grew, buildings connected in the street with the port and its business flourished. It was never seen as a major shopping precinct like Dong Khoi, which was then and still is the prime retail street of Saigon. Major hotels clustered around Dong Khoi rather than Nguyen Hue. Instead, Nguyen Hue became a grand but relatively underutilised thoroughfare, which only came into its own during the celebrations for Tet. The decision to pave the centre of the street was likely made for a number of reasons, one being its relatively low traffic volumes.

Nguyen Hue’s advantage was that it could provide the city with some significant open space because its closure would not significantly affect the traffic network.

However Nguyen Hue’s size and proportion breaks many rules of current urban planning; too wide, too long and too hot. When it was announced it was heavily criticised. “Why not do that in grander streets?”

Yet it has been an enormous success.

The reopening has created a completely new precinct in the city — a motorbike-free space and a promenading space; people flock to it in the evenings, and it has retained and enhanced its ceremonial use at Tet. This success has induced a remarkable renaissance in refurbishment along its edges as well as the streets leading on to it. So many businesses and restaurants fronting Nguyen Hue have started the process of upgrading and new restaurants are emerging. It is a model for the rest of the city.

Plans are being made to link Nguyen Hue with Thu Thiem peninsula on the other side of the river — a big ask — but nevertheless the renaissance of the riverside esplanade will further enhance Nguyen Hue’s position as a significant and important part of the urban fabric of Ho Chi Minh City A happy accident indeed that a utilitarian waterway could become such an important street.

Emperor Nguyen Hue would be proud.

Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City. You can contact him on ehaysom@ modehaysomarchitects.com

HCMC On The Town

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ

23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772

auparcsaigon.com

Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661

babaskitchen.in

This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.

BLACK CAT AMERICAN

13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055

blackcatsaigon.com

Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more,

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL

CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592

boomarang.com.vn

aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.

Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261

bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.

BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas.

Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH

38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE

40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502

Chiscafe.com

This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN

11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329

saigonrestaurantgroup.com

New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE

16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnamese-

owned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for.

CORSO

experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients.

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.

Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN

52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327

elbowroom.com.vn

The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786

ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com

The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace.

Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

HOANG YEN

74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909

PAN-VIETNAMESE

A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town.

7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town.

EON51 FINE DINING

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066

elgaucho.com.vn

eon51.com

Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining

hogsbreathcafe.com.vn

Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 187

TOP EATS ELEVEN CAFÉ

S

tarting life as a café serving coffee, drinks and pastries, Eleven Café last year revamped itself as a dining destination by hiring a chef from a five-star hotel, promising vibrant, creative fusion cuisine.

And certainly, their menu is unusual, their presentation dazzling, their prices reasonable, and their location is quite central.

Their chef — a Master Chef Vietnam who prefers anonymity — moonlights as many chefs do planning menus for other restaurants. The resulting selections gleam with culinary creativity.

188 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Menu Fever My girlfriend and I immediately ordered a mango parfait (VND75,000) and frozen yoghurt; crunchy puffed rice and chunks of sweet mango never tasted so good. We also got a banana espresso (VND55,000), an interesting combination, but not as successful as the parfait.

We started dinner with a salad of rocket and cilantro over green tea-smoked beef (VND120,000) before moving onto the tom yum soup topped with baked puff pastry (VND195,000) perhaps the most unlikely and successful combination of the night. The

buttery puff pastry dissolved into the creamy tom yum broth and merged with the spicy chilli and lemongrass tartness.

For main courses, we debated between the braised lamb shank with puréed curried cauliflower (VND265,000) and the roasted beef tenderloin with succulent marrow cubes and tamarind sauce over mashed sweet potato (VND295,000) before finally choosing the beef.

For the other main course, the roasted duck breast with duck spring roll, baked apple and lemon-leaf salad (VND215,000) was the obvious winner, as well as being one

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

of their most remarked-upon dishes online.

One thing I truly enjoyed about Eleven Café is the chef’s clear attempt to promote healthy eating and regional ingredients.

Yes, the beef is Australian and so is the lamb, the duck is probably Thai — but all the veggies? All those lovely spices? Pure Southeast Asia.

As for healthy eating, note the lack of highglycaemic index foods like rice and potatoes.

Try the puréed veggies instead, and don’t be surprised when you’re scraping the plate for every last bite. We were even inspired to skip dessert for once.

A Success, With Some Reservations This is not to say Eleven Café is perfect. Their menu is innovative, yes, but it also smacks of unreached potential. My girlfriend and I wondered if this was where the unnamed chef brings his works in progress, a living lab to field-test new ideas.

Because as tasty as the food was, it struck us as incomplete. We both agreed the salad needed cheese, that the beef needed salt, pepper and something more to bring the tenderloin’s flavour to its rightful height.

Most of the dishes, however, succeed. They

look beautiful, they taste good, textures and flavours combining in a balanced, thoughtful and occasionally wild way.

Eleven Café is a fun break from endless burgers and slices of pizza — or pho and bun bo Hue, for that matter — a reasonably-priced spot to try something a bit different while appreciating the view below.

As for the coffee and pastries Eleven Café still sells, I’m assured they’re tops, too. — Owen Salisbury Eleven Café is located at 29 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, HCMC at the corner of Le Thanh Ton, and is open from 7am to 11pm

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 189

HCMC

atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO

On The Town

SUSHI / SASHIMI

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town.

KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot!

L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931

Alfrescosgroup.com

Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN

KABIN CANTONESE

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

marriott.com

Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882

lacuisine.com.vn

This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine.

Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LE CORTO 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0671

facebook.com/LeCorto

Open for lunch and set dinner, this beautifully designed restaurant and bar seamlessly mixes contemporary and with classic. With a menu cooked up by reputed chef Sakal Phoeung, and with a contemporary twist to traditional French fare, this is a place to enjoy the luxuries of fine cuisine and even finer wine.

SINGAPOREAN

45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371

lioncityrestaurant.com

Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN

29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727

loveat.vn

Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere.

LU BU 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371

luburestaurant.com

Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.

Has petanque on the terrace.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests.

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a darkwood, aircon interior.

Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence.

Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour.

MARKET 39

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

One of the top three buffet restaurants in town.

Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality.

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET

LION CITY

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

KOH THAI

LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH

MAD HOUSE CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT

6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009

facebook.com/madsaigon

Set over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful rustic décor is matched by

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD

19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

may.restaurant19@gmail. com

Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar.

Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES

18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late.

PACHARAN SPANISH / EUROPEAN

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

MEKONG MERCHANT

PENDOLASCO

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD

PAN-ITALIAN

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478

87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282

The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.

Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2.

info@mekongmerchant.com

MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN

1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE

136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996

namgiao.com

If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent.

pendolasco.vn

PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520

facebook.com/PitchersPMH Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area.

Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.

PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION

8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838

pizza4ps.com

This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

POP FRIES CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES

14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938 754851 A street food eatery concept that originates from Los Angeles and New York, and born from a passion for sharing, here it’s all about the loaded fries. The potatoes are twice-cooked and come piled high with a range of inventive toppings. Funky décor and long benches make up the mix.

PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

RACHA ROOM CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 6253 7711

theracharoom.com

The Racha Room delivers Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on high quality ingredients. Racha features a large selection of spirits at a seated bar and high table to ensure drinking along with eating remains central to the experience.

The current and future of Asian-inspired drinking and dining is right here at the Racha Room.

REFINERY

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509

therefinerysaigon.com

A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500

facebook.com/quanutut

It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with

sanfulou.com

RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR 44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel (08) 6291 8187

relishandsons.com

Relish & Sons burgers are lovingly made with a healthy food philosophy in mind and fresh high quality ingredients. The beef patties are 100% Australian grass-fed; the buns are made with a reduced sugar and salt content. Burger relishes such as chutneys are all made inhouse from scratch.

SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN

QUAN BUI 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town.

Tel: (08) 3823 9513

grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike.

Reservations advised.

SAIGON CAFÉ

Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further.

SEOUL HOUSE

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

KOREAN

33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297

seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE

Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221

shangpalace.com.vn

Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

STOKER CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 3826 8691

stokerwoodfiredgrill.com

One of the world’s oldest culinary techniques — grilling over a wood fire. Stoker kitchen uses different woods to infuse foods with different smoky flavours. These techniques revolutionize live fire cooking by providing precise heat control through the use of a grilling surface that can be adjusted to different cooking heights above the hot coals.

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET

Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch.

SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN

Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1

SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN

9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798

skewers-restaurant.com

Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689

soraesushi.com

Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 191

TOP EATS NORTH END DELI

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

O

pen since November 2014, North End first came into being as a village ‘providore’ of sorts, starting life supplying hungry Thao Dien expats with imported gourmet meats and produce.

Not long after, when the deli’s owners realised that they still couldn’t get the type of sandwich that they wanted — one featuring those very same imported ingredients they were already selling, they became sandwich makers and soon hit upon success.

Similar changes have occurred along Xuan Thuy, the street North End lives on.

Originally bereft of Western competition, the street has now become a food and drink hotspot for District 2 residents. Several other cafes, eateries, a well-known craft beer pub, plus North End’s neighbouring cocktail bar Aperitivo, all make the street a legitimate place to make a night of it, especially when the city seems far away.

192 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Consistency Ultimately, it’s the consistency of its core product that has made the eatery popular.

Whether eaten street-side on tables or delivered to your door, North End Deli makes the most filling, best-tasting warm focaccias, with quality ingredients that are all fully imported. It also doesn’t skimp on portions. Co-owner Attilio Bottero believes a good sandwich should fill you up, and that you should taste and enjoy each part of it. Here those parts include mortadella, mozzarella, prosciutto and emmental, which appear frequently on his menu. Thankfully things like provolone, honey-mustard, bacon and smoked ham are also along for the ride.

For mine, the chicken, bacon and Swiss (VND119,000) is a slice of pure sandwich heaven, but now with a 21-strong line up to choose from, everyone will have their favourites. Right up there is the top-selling

Hot Italian (VND139,000), in all its meaty, cheesy spicy glory, while the smoked salmon (VND149,000) drips with cream cheese, cucumber, tomato and honeymustard dressing.

Get Sandwich Happy It may look easy to Attilio's customers, but the process of getting there has been complicated.

“Only when we become consistent on something can we add something more,” he says. “It took months to get us to this point, but right now I am happy.”

Hungry people outside of District 2 should also be happy from now on. The guys have just opened a new delivery kitchen in Binh Thanh to spread their focaccia love. You lucky devils. — Jon Aspin North End Deli is at 80C Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3744 2099. You can find them online at facebook.com/thenorthenddelivn

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 193

A WORLD

OF

THE WOMEN GAP

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

Despite much talk, the lack of gender equality between men and women remains

I

nternational Women’s Day (IWD) is observed every Mar. 8 and is, according to the UN, a “time to reflect on progress made, to call for change and to celebrate acts of courage and determination by ordinary women” in the quest to achieve gender equality, and women’s empowerment and rights.

Yet, last year the World Economic Forum estimated that economic and social progress is inching along so slowly that the global gender gap would not close for another century. The gender gap is measured by looking at disparities between women and men across four key areas; health, education, economics and politics.

I have no doubt this glacial pace influenced this year’s IWD theme, Pledge for Parity.

Also marking the day is UN Women with their more optimistic theme Planet 50-50 by 2030: Step it Up for Gender Equality. The point remains the same. As IWD says, it’s time to move “from talk to purposeful action.”

But it would seem we’re still not walking our talk.

A hullabaloo broke out when the McKinsey Global Institute produced research claiming that if Country A copied its best neighbouring country in terms of gender equality, US$12 trillion could be added to annual global GDP by 2025. And that’s the base case scenario. If women played a fully equal part in labour markets to men, that figure could rise to US$28 trillion.

194 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Representation, Retirement and Violence Peculiar discrepancies remain. It is distressing to realise that in 1997 Vietnam was one of the top 10 countries in the world for women’s political representation and has now slipped to 44th. This prompted the UNDP and the Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs (MOLISA) to make a

short film highlighting the fact that only 24% of elected positions are held by women.

To combat this steady two-decade decline in women’s participation in the National Assembly, the government has set a target of 35 percent for women’s representation during this year’s election cycle. The simple truth is that women in

government raise issues that directly affect women, and they do it more often than their male counterparts do.

Another discrepancy in Vietnam is the age of retirement for women; 55 for women and 60 for men. This continues to have a negative impact on women’s family planning, earning potential and career advancement. Some positive impact has been delivered with legal frameworks to tackle violence against women and is enshrined in equality and domestic violence laws. But abuse against women remains a troubling issue. Vietnam mirrors global statistics on the number of women — 34%, or one in three — who will experience gender-based violence (typically at the hands of an intimate partner) in her lifetime.

Gender specialists say the issue is exacerbated by a lack of emergency and residential shelters for women and their children trying to escape abuse. These practitioners also say there are ongoing legal and cultural challenges to bringing charges against perpetrators.

Vietnam has made progress towards economic empowerment for women and in areas such as reproductive health and rights, and access to education. This is to be celebrated. However, there is more work to be done, and now.

Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an award-winning nonprofit social enterprise providing vocational training for at-risk youth

HCMC On The Town

TAMAGO

TIN NGHIA

PAN-JAPANESE

VEGAN

39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634

tamagoresto@gmail.com

Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms.

They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244

Templeclub.com.vn

Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

M M M STREET FOOD BA GHIEN COM TAM

84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan

MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632

thedecksaigon.com

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE

144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533

facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe

Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar.

A popular hangout.

BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI

107 Truong Dinh, Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection.

Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10 BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 PHO DAU PHO BO

288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3

BANH TAM

271 Nguyen Trai, Q1 BO KHO

NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE

BA NAM

PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

260C Pasteur, Q3

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917

PHO LE

BUN CHA HA NOI

PHO PHU GIA

Namsonsteak.com

PHO BO

413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH CUON HAI NAM BANH CUON

BUN CHA

PHO BO

26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3

CHI THONG

PHO PHU VUONG

11A Cao Thang, Q3 BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU

BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI

PHO BO

195 Co Giang, Q1

339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh

COM GA XOI MO SU SU

SUSHI KO

BANH KHOT

102 Cao Thang, Q3 THE DECK

170 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH MI HONG HOA

VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN

STREET SUSHI

55 Tu Xuong, Q3

122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4

COM TAM 40A

THE LUNCH LADY

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1

COM TAM

BANH MI HUYNH HOA

23 Hoang Sa, Q1

MI QUANG MY SON

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI

26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1

MI QUANG

BANH MI SAU MINH

DAILY CHANGING DISHES

40A Quoc Huong, Q2

38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1

HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE

67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999

facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM

Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too.

ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897

vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom

This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 195

BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1

PAINTINGS Tran Phu D1 Bui Vien D3

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196 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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PLAQUES Nam Quoc Cang C2, D2

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wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 197

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The Final Say

P

ham Van Quang’s woodworking shop, tucked into an inconspicuous nook of the Old Quarter, is just big enough to fit a worktable, lawn chair, rice cooker and a handful of worn chisels.

His creations — hand-carved wooden cookie and mooncake moulds in ornate shapes — line the walls and dangle from the entryway.

Located on Hang Quat near the intersection with Hang Hom, his shop is close to the backpacker district, but Quang said he seldom sees tourists in his shop.

These days, most of his customers are wedding planners, bakers and fortunetellers who use his products for a number of traditional events.

But his craft is a dying art, he said, lamenting the fact that few people seem to know the meaning behind the images of fish, turtles and auspicious Chinese symbols that he painstakingly etches into solid blocks of wood.

Cultural Preservation Hang Quat has retained its reputation as a woodworking street, but many other craftsmen have gone out of business due to the decline in demand.

“The other areas, they can’t survive with this job,” he said.

Some of Quang’s smaller moulds are used to make mooncakes, traditional treats that are served during the Mid-Autumn Festival. Moulds of Chinese symbols

198 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

THE FINAL SAY

HANOI

The Last Cake Mould Maker Deep in Hanoi’s Old Quarter sits the workshop of woodworker Pham Van Quang. Words by Emily Petsko.

Photos by Julie Vola meaning happiness and longevity are used for weddings, while other moulds are used for funerals and a number of festivals.

For 60-year-old Quang, who inherited the trade from his father, woodworking is more than just an occupation. It’s an act of cultural preservation.

“A lot of people make demands for products, but they don’t really understand the products, they don’t know the culture,” he said.

A traditionalist to the core, he knows the history and folklore behind each symbol.

He occasionally consults a couple of

illustrated astrology books while designing stamps for fortune-tellers, which are the tools of their trade, just as the chisel is for Quang’s work.

Every detail is crucial, he said while describing a fellow woodworker who botched a product that featured the traditional Vietnamese symbol of two dragons facing a sun and moon.

“The dragons must be below the sun and moon, but here they made it higher. You know why? Because without the sun, there is no life, there is no religion… and we need to respect the sun,” he said.

The Here and Now In addition to cookie cutters and stamps, Quang also makes altars for ancestor worship and takes orders for customised products.

When asked about the future viability of his business amid declining demand, Quang said he couldn’t think about it — he could only focus on the here and now.

He said his trade is a job like any other, but it also requires skill and passion.

“It’s to make a living. Secondly, if you don’t like this job, you’ll never get anything from this job,” he said. “If you go to work and choose this job, you must like what you do.”

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 199

The Final Say

Ten 10

Since this is a photography issue, who better to speak to for this column than the photographers’ photographers, François Carlet-Soulages and Sébastien Löffler from NOI Pictures. The brains behind the first homegrown photography agency in Vietnam, they give us their thoughts on the industry What is your photography background?

Sébastien: I discovered photography at the Fine Arts University in Paris and then started shooting street photography during my 20s, as well as various assignments and personal projects — including my first trip to Vietnam in 2003.

François: I started photography as a hobby in high school and was a photo editor for four magazines in Paris over four years. Then I became a full-time freelance photographer until NOI Pictures was founded.

When did you get the idea for creating NOI Pictures?

François: I think it was around 2005, but the idea became more realistic around 2007. It was urgent to provide clients with reliable photographers and photographers with reliable assignments.

Why did you choose to base yourselves in Hanoi?

Sébastien: Because to me Hanoi is one the most exciting places in the world. Even now after eight years living there I get surprised every morning…

François: A bit of destiny and a bit of luck, I always had Asia in my mind since my early childhood. It could have been somewhere else, but I felt incredibly comfortable in Hanoi since my very first day in the city 14 years ago. Though we founded NOI Pictures in Hanoi, we are constantly travelling all over Vietnam and Southeast Asia with photographers also based in Ho Chi Minh City, Danang, Shanghai and Bangkok.

Why is having a homegrown photography agency so important for Vietnam?

François: We believe that too many photographers think they can be excellent in every field — which can’t be true — and that can be misleading for clients. NOI Pictures is here to advise and provide clients with an extensive choice of skills and styles, adapted to their specific needs, with guaranteed results.

We also protect the interests of our collaborators; we think it is essential to provide photographers with a reliable structure where they can find support for production. NOI Pictures allows them to focus on what they do best; creating images.

How difficult was it to set up?

Sébastien: It wasn’t really difficult. Since we were the first to open a rep agency in Vietnam, the most exciting part was to share our vision with our staff and photographers to build what we are now; a roster of 11 commercial photographers and more than 40 contributors in our stock image bank.

What problems have you experienced with copyright? How are you resolving this?

Sébastien: If a few publications and companies have indeed used some of our photographers’ work without authorization or appropriate licensing, it’s usually due to a lack of information.

Copyright and authorship are notions that are often misunderstood, and everyone in the creative industry has to face similar issues in this still-emerging market. But Vietnam is now open to the world; more and more companies acknowledge that legal control of media usage protects them, by securing the creative work they have invested in.

How easy or difficult has it been to find good photographers to have on your books?

Sébastien: There are many talented photographers in Vietnam, but we’re keen on building strong, long-term relationships with collaborators who are willing to share our vision. Mutual trust is essential to guarantee the best work process to our clients.

Since you’ve been running NOI Pictures, how much has photography improved in Vietnam?

Sébastien: We now discover emerging photographers who are showing some very interesting work, thanks to social media and local publications. And we recently saw Vietnamese photographers showcased in international festivals and winning prestigious prizes. How’s that for an improvement?

For more info on NOI, click on noipictures. com or images.noipictures.com

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