Word Vietnam May 2015

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 5 2015 MAY 2015 NOT FOR SALE

contents

wordvietnam.com

MAY 2015

064

106

060

THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / Who Owns Vietnamese Food?

056 / Another Green World

016 / The Best Road in Vietnam

Our infrastructure gets a boost

022 / Mystery Quest

A journey into the unknown

032 / Saigon Dodgeball Tournament

‘Game of Throwdowns’!

032

Making your teeth hurt since 2005

060 / Conserving Vietnam’s Coastline

011 / The Big Five

BRIEFINGS

102 / The Vietnam Pastry Cup

We go inside the terrarium

Where intellectual property gets complicated Events to look out for this month

EAT & DRINK

106 / Hanoi’s Best Pho

We settle the debate

It’s a process

064 / Our Favourite Things

The month in cravings

090 / Making It a Reality

Crowdsourcing takes hold in Vietnam

ART 096 / Vietnam’s Got Talent

On hand for the finale

098 / Glee Club

A musical theatre troupe takes the stage

114 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

We smell the rarified air in Vietnam’s tallest steakhouse

116 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Zombie BBQ gives dead pigs new life

FASHION 118 / The Golden Imprint

Guest creator Viet Ha Tran demonstrates Vietnam’s age-old elegance

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FUNDAY & OPEN DAY RENAISSANCE TALENT TALENT SHOW RENAISSANCE SHOW Saturday, 23 23rd May, Saturday, May, 2015 2015 09:00 am 09:00 am rd

EARLY YEARS PRIMARY SECONDARY EARLY YEARS PRIMARY 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, District 7, HCMC SECONDARY 74 Nguyen Thi3171 Thap,- District 7, HCMC (08) 3773 ext: 120/121/122 (08) 3773 3171 - ext: 120/121/122 admissions@renaissance.edu.vn admissions@renaissance.edu.vn www.renaissance.edu.vn www.renaissance.edu.vn

contents

124

136

194

HCMC

TRAVEL 124 / Into the Mangrove

Three photographers, a swamp and a million birds

132 / Destination Zero

Victoria Can Tho Resort anchors our Mekong trip

134 / Travel Promos 136 / The Motorbike Diaries

Part 2: Stuck in Laos

HANOI 044 / To-Do List 052 / Overscene 140 / Hanoi City Guide 142 / Bar Stool 144 / Coffee Cup 146 / Top Eats 149 / Food Promos

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034 / To-Do List 042 / Overscene 158 / HCMC City Guide 166 / Coffee Cup 168 / Top Eats COLUMNS 148 / The Alchemist

150 / The Therapist 154 / Medical Buff 156 / Book Buff 162 / Business Buff 164 / Body and Temple 172 / The Empty Wok 184 / Student Eye

186 / A World of Good 187 / Tieng Viet FINAL SAY 190 / You Should Learn Vietnamese

It’s opening up a whole new world for Ed Weinberg

192 / You Shouldn’t Learn Vietnamese

But that world is pretty much pointless to your daily life, Niko Savvas argues

194 / The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War

Chapter 8: An explanation

200 / The Last Call

The Lunch Lady keeps serving up the soup

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CONTRIBUTORS

This month we asked Word contributors: “What’s your regular food spot?”

HOA LE Staff Editor Kinh Do Café (252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi). I go there whenever I feel like a simple, casual lunch with close friends in a home-like atmosphere.

The owners are friendly and usually look very relaxed as well. Great pastries and yogurt!

OWEN SALISBURY Contributing Writer Espy Pizza (154 Cong Quynh, Q1, HCMC) for sure. Owner Khai is a great guy, always willing to take a few minutes to shoot the breeze. The staff are friendly, and know exactly how I like my slices. I tutor some students nearby, and Espy is where I go for a quick bite, to chill out, to see familiar faces. It’s especially nice since Espy was my first review for the Word.

NICK ROSS Chief Editor Chi’s Cafe (40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, HCMC). I’ve been coming to this place ever since it opened, and prior to that, Cafe Van, its predecessor. Chi is a great host, but even better are her staff, some of whom I’ve known for almost 15 years.

NIKO SAVVAS Online Editor Zeus (164 Cong Quynh, Q1, HCMC) feels just like home because of the burly mustachioed man who shouts at me in Greek, and the overpowering smell of onions.

ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor Ploughman’s Garden (58 So 1, Tran Nao, Q2, HCMC) is my spot. Off a quiet street in District 2, the grounds are owner Seiko’s home and garden, the cat is her cat. The hospitality is real, and the roof eating space just has a paradisiacal feel. Try the green smoothie and veggie burger with egg — aka, the ‘Eddie’.

HARRY HODGE Contributing Writer I like Banh Xeo 46A (46 Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, HCMC), a place made famous by Anthony Bourdain. Before the baby came, my wife and I went there twice a month.

I left my credit card on the table and left, and when I returned later that month, the owners were waiting for me and handed it over! Too bad I’d already cancelled it.

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

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KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

DAVID MANN Staff Editor david.mann@wordvietnam.com

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For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Glen Riley, Katie Jacobs, Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Family Medical Practice, Simon Stanley, Harry Hodge, Anh Nguyen, George Burchett, Owen Salisbury, Trung Del, Réhahn, Noey Neumark, Harris Spencer, Matt Dworzanczyk, Les Rives, Mekong Experience, Shay Lubin, Tu Nguyen, Viet Ha Tran, David C. Murray, Huyen Thuong

JON ASPIN Staff Writer Daks Chicken and Hof (S8-1, R16-2 Hung Vuong, Q7, HCMC) is my spot for a bit of late night anonymity. Noone speaks any English, the staff are quite frankly pretty rude, but when they bring that boneless honey roasted chicken out with all the Korean trimmings, I know I’m in the right place.

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6 | Word May 2015 | wordvietnam.com

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The prelude What do the people here like to eat?”

And that is the question we attempt to answer this month.

What Vietnamese dishes do people truly love? What stories do we have to tell about each of these dishes?

Yet the idea for our cover story came from a different, non-Canadian source — The Sound of Music. My daughter was watching the 50-year-old movie for the nth time. As I walked in the room, Julie Andrews was singing one of the epic’s best known tracks:

Cream coloured ponies and crisp apple strudels Doorbells and sleigh bells and schnitzel with noodles Wild geese that fly with the moon on their wings These are a few of my favourite things Like this movie did when I was young, that final line stuck in my head and refused to go away. “These are a few of my favourite things.”

The next day I received an email about plans for future cover stories. One of the ideas was to do something on food — the last time we dedicated these pages

to cooked flesh and the destruction of plants was in late 2013.

Somehow, that line from The Sound of Music and the concept of food merged together.

If there is one thing that makes the faces of almost every human light up, it’s food. Both when we talk about it, and when we eat.

Food is one of the few universal pleasures, one of our favourite things.

So, with me now salivating and contemplating lunch, time to go north of the border and get a poutine. — Nick Ross, Chief Editor

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 5 2015 MAY 2015 NOT FOR SALE

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

I

n the introduction to this month’s cover story, we poke fun at Canada. To all you Canucks out there, this is a joke, okay?

Like American travellers stitching the Canadian flag to their backpacks, it’s a joke.

Here’s what we write: “Everybody likes food in some form or another, even people from Canada, so long as it is covered in cheese and maple syrup. But this is not Canada — this is a different socialist republic: Vietnam.

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN BẢN LAO ĐỘNG ĐỘNG ĐỘN

THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Photo by Julie Vola

HAVE YOUR SAY DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK — FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM — OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM. NO MATTER HOW POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE YOUR THOUGHTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.

inbox

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM — WE’RE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

50 Shades of Expat

Brand Ambassadors

Read last night the 50 Shades of Expats article in your latest edition (April 2015).

Brilliant and sooo true! — JM

(February 2015) I finally had the chance to sit down and look at the Bia issue (February 2015). Really liked the cover photo and loved a lot of the cover stories (hello, infographics!), but I have a bone to pick with your fashion section (page 108).

You’re all journalists there, so when I saw this bit, I couldn’t help but wonder, where’s the journalism?

Firstly, it did establish the beginning of a storyline as it was titled: Brand Ambassadors.

Anyone with half a brain knows what the intended purpose of a female beer brand ambassador is in Vietnam. That said, we come to expect that kind of treatment of women within lowbrow marketing schemes focused predominantly on men.

Yet, for a cover story on beer written by classy, intelligent and forward-thinking journos like I know you guys can be, I had this question.

What’s the point of including this section if it’s a) not selling any fashion items, and b) has nothing to say beyond “hey, look at these girls in tiny clothes”.

Could we have perhaps talked to them? Asked them what their experiences are when working in these environments? Perhaps dig into the history of brand ambassadors in Vietnam and Asia, and how beer branding carries over into fashion and ‘walking billboards’ like brand ambassadors are often expected to be.

I mean, seriously. Anything! Any story at all!

Bigger, better and more dynamic angles when it comes to stories about women, please. Don’t allow the magazine to go hand-in-hand with women buying into their own disempowerment by not having a voice. — Karen Hewell

Let’s Call Him Peter I heard about this story from a friend and looked it up in the mag (April 2015, page 76). Hysterical. That is so funny! Who is that guy? — AS

The Apron I don’t want to explain my reasons as I respect what you do, but I hate this story (April 2015, page 75). Really hate it. — MK

The Photography Issue (March 2015, page 8) Is my guess correct that I was the ‘friend’ in Hanoi who suggested guest editorial?

Glad the idea had some legs. It was good to see Word mixing it up a little. I do think it would be even better if you went the whole hog, though. But not easy, I know. If you did want any feedback on the issue, never ever double spread great photography. It turns an image into a physical object in a magazine as opposed to an inspired piece of work. — Dorian Gibbs, Work Room Four

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the talk THE TALK

LEAD

Who Owns Vietnamese Food?

It seems everyone wants a piece of Vietnamese cuisine these days

I

n September 2013, Pho Holdings, the company behind the then eight-strong chain of Pho Vietnamese cafés in the UK, sent a legal letter to similarly named competitors in the country asking them to change their name. The reason? Pho Holdings were trademarking the word pho.

Pandemonium followed — both the legal action and the trademark were quickly dropped. But imagine what would have happened if this had gone through.

Vietnam would have been in uproar. How can some lowlife, exploitative foreign company trademark this country’s national dish? It’s unthinkable!

That so much currency is placed internationally on Vietnamese cuisine represents a sea change. 15 or even 10 years ago, finding authentic fare outside of the Vietnamese-inhabited areas overseas was almost impossible. This writer remembers eating at a ‘Vietnamese’ restaurant in London’s Soho. The owners were in situ, but except for a few words, they didn’t speak Vietnamese. They were Chinese. But the tell-tale sign was the cuisine. It had no connection whatsoever with the fare produced in Vietnam.

Times have changed, and now together with nail salons, coffee, catfish and rice, Vietnam’s cuisine is one of its best-known and loved exports. Also, compared to other

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more established Asian cuisines overseas, it gets premium prices.

country to taste authentic, to taste as it does here.

Get it Right, Please

Authenticity?

One reason for the quality upgrade in Vietnamese cuisine is that so many people have now visited Vietnam in recent years; the knowledge is out there. Foreign arbiters of taste know the difference between the real thing and all that is fake.

As UK-born food blogger, Uyen Luu, says in an article in the UK’s Telegraph, “When I eat out and notice people have used the wrong herbs or the wrong size noodles, it drives me mad.”

This writer is equally frustrated when the restaurants overseas get it wrong.

A recent trip to a certain Vietnamese restaurant in North London demonstrated the errors that can be made. We ordered thit kho tieu — claypot pork with pepper — but the meat, while tasty, was all wrong.

It was braised, braised in the same way as it would be for thit kho tau, another Vietnamese staple. With claypot dishes, the meat or fish is quite literally cooked in the claypot. Likewise, when restaurants overseas serve bun thit nuong with pho noodles rather than bun noodles — an all too common occurrence — this particular writer feels let down. Something inside me wants the cuisine I eat outside of this

Yet, this obsession with authenticity is a fickle friend. Why should a Thai curry, for example, have to be made to the same recipe used in Bangkok? And why do banh xeo, or Vietnamese pancakes, have to be cooked in the same way they are in Hue? They don’t have to.

Variations are fine, but labeling something wrongly isn’t. One of my favourite Thai restaurants in the UK, Busaba Eathai, gets this spot on. They cook the dishes as they would be cooked in Thailand, but with their own little twist.

It works to a T. Everything is correctly labeled. And oh does it taste good!

No one person can own a particular type of food. It’s like saying only Italians can cook Italian cuisine, or that the only authentic Vietnamese food you’ll ever eat will be in Vietnam. Both assertions are absurd.

Providing what you’re serving up is what you say it is, then forget authenticity.

There’s no such thing. It’s a case of how well or how badly the dish is created. As for trademarking the words pho, banh xeo and pizza? Now, that’s just utter madness. — Nick Ross

the big five

09

SATURDAY

10

Hanoi

Photo provied by EUROCHAM

2 1

THE EUROPEAN FOOD FESTIVAL

EuroCham will be holding the ninth annual European Food Festival on Saturday May 9 in the gardens of the National Library (31 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi). Celebating 25 years of diplomatic

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SATURDAY

relations between the EU and Vietnam, this free event is expected to draw in up to 1,000 people.

For more info email marketing@eurochamvn. org or go to our article on page 44

HCMC

ESCAPE: NEXT INVASION

We know; you didn’t want to unleash the beast so soon after your hols. But here we are — with Saigon’s biggest dance party making a return, riding in on the gilded beats of Toc Tien, Long Halo and DJ Hoang Touliver. Taking place in the Amazonian wilds of District 7 — where beer flows freely from noon to 6pm — it’s a show you don’t want to miss.

Book your tickets at facebook.com/escape. vn, or by calling 0909 404490. The party takes place in Lot 13, Tan Trao, Q7, HCMC

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SUNDAY

HCMC

ORGANIC FARMERS’ MARKET

La Holista health guru Chiara Squinzi is organising Saigon Outcast’s first-ever farmers’ market, and it’s going to be a good one. Partnering with Organik Dalat — Vietnam’s only EU-certified organic farm — they’re inviting farmers, ranchers, fishermen, food artisans, flowers shops, honey sellers, gluten-free Nutella treat crafters, yoga practitioners, health coaches, cooking demonstrators, free-range eggs providers, bakers, organic beer makers, kombucha hawkers, fresh juices experts, cheese lovers, organic coffee slingers and YOU! You might not have noticed, but lately Saigon Outcast has jumped the internetbiting shark, so get there early. They’re expecting around 700 families and health seekers on the day.

The Saigon Outcast Farmer’s Market goes from 9am to 6pm at Outcast — 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC. For more info, go to facebook.com/outcastsfarmersmarket

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FRIDAY

Hanoi

WEDNESDAY HCMC

LITTLE BARRIE RETURNS

Remember the best night you’ve ever had at Apocalypse Now? No, not the night you kissed that Swedish gymnast — the night that Dengue Fever played an emergency show on their ground floor, and UK blues rockers Little Barrie nearly blew the doors off in their opening set.

Loud Minority is seeing its first-ever returning alumni with Little Barrie’s forthcoming set in the more comfy confines of Cargo Bar. And it’s a good time to be

seeing guitarist Barrie Cadogan’s brainchild — on the heels of their critically-acclaimed album Shadow, and their mainstreaminfiltrating score to the show Better Call Saul.

Well, maybe anytime is a good time to be seeing Barrie Cadogan, the man who talent scout Edwyn Collins has called “the best guitarist of his generation”.

Little Barrie is going on at Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC), 7.30pm. Tickets are VND350,000 in advance, VND450,000 at the door — available at ticketbox.vn and Asian Kitchen (185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, HCMC)

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ALY AND FILA

World-renowned Egyptian trance act Aly and Fila will be playing at outdoor venue Eden Club (Alley 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi). Brought in by Vibration Events and Excite Entertainment, expect the duo to spin the tunes into the early hours.

For more info go to page 46 or check out the Eden Hanoi Facebook page

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 11

Photos by Mads Monsen

briefings

BRIEFING

HCMC

The Blooms of May Dining for a good cause at BLOOM Restaurant Saigon

N

ear the canals of Binh Thanh, a French colonial mansion sits nestled into an intimate neighborhood.

The elegant white façade is well camouflaged to the first-time visitor.

Somehow, the biggest building in the area is also the least conspicuous. By night, dim golden light pours out of its many windows.

It’s a stretch to call the ambience Parisian, but not that much of a stretch.

The mansion was once home to May Cloud, a restaurant appreciated by Saigon foodies for its charming décor, elegant (and moderately priced) dishes, and friendly service. Last month, the winding staircases and candle-lit tables became home to a new gem: BLOOM. Like the mansion itself, the dishes are

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Vietnamese with hints of French influence.

Two chefs, Jacqueline Kieu and Hung Tu, both of whom once plied their trade in the US, have worked diligently to craft EastWest dishes. Typical of the joint influence is the shaking beef bo luc lac, a succulent pile of wok-stirred filet mignon cubes sure to satisfy the most ravenous carnivores. Lighter dishes such as the fried tofu with lemongrass provide a pleasing balance to the menu, and like its predecessor, May Cloud, all dishes are prepared without MSG or other additives.

The food isn’t the only reason to visit BLOOM, however. As an Aid to Children Without Parents (ACWP) Culinary Training Facility for Disadvantaged Youth, BLOOM Restaurant Saigon provides employment

opportunities and job training for Vietnamese youth from underprivileged backgrounds. The organisation, which began in Hue, aims to empower young people with practical skills and documentable job experience that will allow them to succeed in the real world.

Benjamin Lee, Chairman of ACWP, says that the goal of the restaurant is to train its employees for later success in three and four-star kitchens, the kind normally found in upscale hotels and expensive restaurants.

For diners seeking that type of premium experience at a fraction of the price, BLOOM is well worth the trip. — Niko Savvas Visit bloom-saigon.com for more information about the restaurant and the ACWP programme

briefings

briefing

HCMC

Casting Call Following on from last month’s article about Dragonfly Theatre Company’s dinnertheatre event next month, An Evening with Tennessee Williams, Jon Aspin interrupts rehearsals to see how it’s going, and ask if he can score a last-minute spot in the cast.

The answer? Not a chance

T

alking to him are directors, producers and cast members Aaron Toronto, Belinda Smith, Ryan Burkwood and Mandi Manson:

Word: Belinda, you’re putting on five oneact plays by Tennessee Williams. It’s an ambitious undertaking. How are rehearsals going?

Belinda: Well, thanks Jon. With all of our productions we always spend time exploring our characters before we even start rehearsing, so we’re in the middle of that process now.

Word: How intense does it get? A little birdy told me things were heating up the other night…

Belinda: It is intense, but it makes the final product so much more believable. Otherwise it’s just a bunch of actors standing on stage

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reading lines. By the time we start rehearsing scenes, we understand how our characters might behave in any situation.

Word: Sounds interesting. Speaking of situations, Mandi, you’re playing Blanche Shannon in Interior: Panic, one of Tennessee’s most famous, and damaged characters. How’s that been going?

Mandi: Both of my roles are demanding: physically, technically and emotionally. In terms of intensity, let’s just say there will be sweat and there will be tears.

Word: Glad to hear it. Prior to this we’ve seen you playing Snow White around town. Are there any parallels?

Mandi: [Laughs] Yes, they are quite different. The only common theme perhaps is the awareness of the power of a woman’s beauty. Snow White is of course the fairest in

the land — Blanche, she lives in torment and panic as hers fades.

Word: What’s the best part about playing this type of character?

Mandi: What’s not to love? She hears voices, hallucinates and lives in and out of delusional fits of panic. The majority of the play is centred on Blanche’s struggle, so I guess the best part is getting to walk in the shoes of a person who is so thoroughly tormented.

Word: Aaron, you and Ryan are directing and acting in these plays. What’s it like working with this cast?

Aaron: When you have such a tiny community of artists, you get a wide range of experiences. Personally, it’s been wonderful working with actors such as Ryan and Mandi, who are as professionally

Photo by Adam Astley Images from the recent Dragonfly production, Waiting for Godot

trained as any actor I know.

Ryan: Shucks, thanks Aaron. I never fail to be humbled by the dedication and commitment of our actors. We’ve all got wildly different schedules, so it means rehearsals at odd times, usually long into the night. But that’s what we all signed up for!

Word: When will you guys know that you’re ready to perform?

Ryan: We’ll know when it’s five minutes before the performance! Ideally I’d like to rehearse like some avant-garde European companies do, for five to 10 years. Sadly we don’t have that luxury, we have a deadline!

Mandi: We will be ready when the lights go down and we are cued to start the show. We have to be.

Word: Mandi, you’re one of the more experienced of the cast, do you still get nervous?

Mandi: I do get nervous, but I know I’m ready when I don’t have to think about what I am doing. That’s when the character lives and breathes without conscious “acting”.

That’s when I’m ready to go out there and

perform in front of an audience.

Word: And you Aaron?

Aaron: To paraphrase a quote, a play is never finished, it just runs out of time and money. You’ve got to do the best you can to prepare, then when it comes time to perform, bring it.

Word: Bring it eh? I can bring it. What are my chances of getting a walk-on in this?

Have you guys seen my beer commercial?

All: [Sound of crickets] Word: Not ringing any bells? There was a story about it in the last issue of this magazine...

Aaron: ... err, no sorry Jon, we’re not really readers. We’ve got nothing.

Word: Well this is awkward. Can I show you the ad?

Belinda: … umm, not really. Is there another question?

Ryan: Hang on, I think we could fit you in Jon. Don’t we need a good-looking guy to wait the tables Belinda?

Belinda: [Whispering] But he’s not good-looking!

Word: I can hear you.

Ryan: Ahem, best just to move on, Jon. Word: Thanks Ryan. Belinda, the dinnertheatre concept is still a new one for Saigon. Are you worried someone might get wine spilled on their playbook and write a bad review on TripAdvisor?

Belinda: Good question, I hadn’t thought of that. I think the reviews that Dragonfly gets say that people appreciate what we’re doing, although none on TripAdvisor yet. I think dinner-theatre is the perfect combination for this show. We wanted to make this a whole event rather than just coming to see a play.

Ryan: Yeah, it’s not something we usually do, but I’m really excited about the food we’ll be serving. Proper southern Mississippi Delta style — expect mud pie. It’s just a shame I won’t get to eat it!

Word: I look forward to it. Thank you all for your time. Remind us how we can get a seat?

Belinda: If people want to enjoy the whole dinner-theatre experience they must book seats in advance. To do this they should go to our Facebook page [facebook.com/ dragonflyvietnam] to get the ticketbox.vn link.

Hope to see you at the show!

briefings

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And the award goes to…

[Sound of envelope being opened. Silence from the audience.]

The NHAT TAN-NOI BAI HIGHWAY!!!

B

eyond cutting the journey time to the airport by 15 minutes, at first sight the new road over Nhat Tan Bridge in Hanoi to Noi Bai is hardly revolutionary. Indeed, the fixed fare taxi drivers from the airport still charge the same rates to and from central Hanoi. In the past it was 26km into town.

Now the journey is 17. A bum deal.

But judging by the amount of people stopping on the bridge to take photos, there’s a buzz that goes beyond reduced journey times (and non-reduced taxi fares). Families and friends step out of cars and pose, with the structure’s triangular trusses spanning across the Red River behind them.

“Here’s me on Cau Nhat Tan,” they will boast to their friends or write on Facebook. The ‘likes’ will flood in as well as the odd comment. Wow, little Tuan has got really big — what milk

BRIEFINGS

HANOI

The Best Road in Vietnam product are you giving him, tell me? Where did you get that new anorak?

Yet where the new road is social media friendly, the local media has been silent.

Eerily so. Normally they rev themselves up into a scandal-driven frenzy when constructions or projects are badly implemented. “Check out the cracks in the tunnel under the Saigon River. Oh my god!

The sky, no, the river will fall on our heads!”

It’s a field day. It’s a scare factor. It’s a ‘Vietnam has gone to the dogs’ affair. With Nhat Tan, all is quiet on the Eastern Front.

With the angle-less media lodged in their trenches, and with every person I speak to coming up with the same adjective — “Amazing” — it only reinforces what my own bicycle, motorbike and taxi journeys along this highway have already impressed.

This four and sometime five-lane Japanese-Vietnamese construction is the best road in Vietnam.

A Model Road Yet, it’s a road. Asphalt over gravel over clay.

So who gives a damn? It gets you from A to B. Yes it’s faster. But so what?

Let’s take the standard highway in Vietnam. Trucks, cars and motorbikes all struggle for driving space on the same piece of asphalt. Journey times are slow. Accidents are numerous — and, although the official death toll of the last calendar year was the lowest in years, it still hovered around 9,000 fatalities. Despite the fact we have to use them every day, the roads are a pretty dangerous place to be.

Numerous efforts have been made to speed up journey times and increase safety — the Trung Luong and Long Thanh Expressways in the south, the Thang Long and Hanoi-Lao Cai Highways in the north.

Two-wheeled vehicles have often been

completely banned from these expressways, allowing for four-wheeled vehicles to hit higher speeds. Or if not, they have been relegated to a side section. Anyone who has driven down the Thang Long Highway out of Hanoi will know how dangerous the side lanes are. The traffic goes in two directions, but with no clear road markings to separate out the wheat from the oncoming chaff. It’s a scrap collector’s dream.

Yet the Nhat Tan-Noi Bai Road seems to have solved all this. Crossing the bridge motorbikes are on the same road as the cars, but at the first opportunity they are relegated to the side lanes. And yes, these side lanes are well-signposted and wellpaved, as is the highway itself. It’s even been beautified, with women in non la in daily attendance of the flower beds, palm trees and vegetation. As for pedestrians — not even the canniest or fleetest-of-foot Thong, Duc and Ha will risk a quick crossing.

Tunnels under the highway have been set aside for this as they have for U-turns and quick cuts across lane to turn left. Yes, those goddamn left-hand turns. And on the highway itself, the exits are all organised into spaghetti-like intersections. Not a traffic light or roundabout in sight.

Growing the Capital There are more superlatives to add to the growing list, for this is more than just a road. Running through Dong Anh District in northeast Hanoi, together with the newly completed Highway 5 it has created fast access to the least developed area of the city.

Paddy fields, vegetable farms, small towns and villages presently battle for open space in this Never Never Land, or as one person describes it, “the bread bowl of the capital”. Expect all this to change over the next five years. If there’s going to be new development, much of it will be out here. Never Never will become the new frontier.

Let’s just hope there’s a strategy. The mass development in My Dinh to the west of the city is bereft of urban planning. Here they can hopefully get it right. — Nick Ross

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 17

briefings BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

The Ta Lai Trophy City athletes go to the jungle to test their endurance

L

ast month, just under 100 competitors descended on Nam Cat Tien, Vietnam’s second-largest national park, to take part in this year’s Ta Lai Trophy. A jungle-style triathlon that includes biking, running and, for Extreme competitors, kayaking, the grueling competition is the equivalent of a Vietnamese-style Iron Man, except in a jungle setting.

“It’s all about creating an event in a beautiful biosphere,” says co-organiser Francois Bouvery. “It gives competitors the chance to experience a back-to-nature-style tournament.”

He adds: “We have a good community here. More than 50 percent of the competitors know each other. Every year we have newcomers. Ultimately, we want more people to come to the park.”

Finishing first place in the Extreme event were Joachim Poirier and Jean-Baptiste Campion, both ending with a time of 5:58.

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The shorter Challenge race was won by Bruno Thiernard and Meriem Kellou, who completed the circuit in 2:21.

Says race co-organiser George Abraham, “The first edition of the race had around 45 racers, whereas this year we had just under 100 — so it has doubled in size, which is great. After the first edition’s success we felt this year had to be bigger, better and, of course, more of a challenge for our racers.”

And more of a challenge it certainly was.

Ross Jaxx, a Jakarta-based American, prepared for the event by doing “a trail run in Indonesia a few weeks ago, twice up and down a volcano. That was a three-and-a-half hour slog. If this is more difficult than that I'll be surprised.” He finished 13th in the Extreme race, with a time of 7:43.

Another competitor, British International School student Simon Arts, fared much better.

“These events are a lot of fun compared to a triathlon, where you approach it kind of like Tai Chi,” said the Belgian. “You start canoeing at night. You never know, you might blow a tyre on the track — you just never know what's going to happen in a race like this.”

Simon finished second in the Extreme race with a time of 6:01.

With all the proceeds going to the local ethnic minorities living in the confines of the national park, George Abraham has one regret.

“I would love to see more Vietnamese racers taking part as we don’t get many signing up to participate, which is a shame,” he says. “Cat Tien is so beautiful.

They are missing out on a hidden gem in their own backyard.”

Next year, George. Next year.

Check out talai-adventure.vn for the next challenge

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 19

briefings BRIEFINGS

NATIONAL

Cleaner Air Battling air quality in Vietnam

A

ccording to a recent Yale University report, Vietnam’s air quality is ranked 170 out of 178 countries. Using three measurements — air pollution, exceedance of safe limits and household air quality — it is difficult to know how they reached this conclusion. Few official air pollution statistics, both indoor and outdoor, are released in Vietnam, and only a handful of private individuals take regular readings.

Yet air quality in this country is a concern. It doesn’t take data to tell you one thing — in the past decade it’s gotten markedly worse. Cases of asthma are on the rise and air quality in the major cities, particularly Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, can sometimes be so bad that it’s difficult to breathe.

With this in mind, in February 2013 Word ran a survey of the air quality in Ho Chi Minh City.

It was far from conclusive, but it showed that outdoor air pollution is often between two and five times the WHO-recommended ‘safe’ level. In August of the same year, we brought a ParticleScan Pro — a handheld laser particle counter — up to Hanoi and took measurements at various locations around the city. We compared results. On average, the air pollution in the capital was around 160,000 fine particles per litre of air. In Saigon it was 140,000. The upper threshold, according to WHO’s guidelines, should be 60,000.

Taking on Bad Air Since 2013, Aron Szabo, the Vietnam distributor of IQ Air, a Swiss company producing indoor air purifying machines, has noticed an increased interest in the country’s air quality. “Two years ago no-one seemed to really care,” he says. “But now the embassies are starting to contact me. They’re very concerned.”

But it’s not just the embassies that are contacting Aron, it’s businesses as well.

As individuals we can’t do much about the outdoor environment — change has to come on the macro level. It requires nationwide policy and enforced regulation.

However, air pollution is often worse indoors.

And since these environments are the places we live and work, we can have an immediate effect on their quality.

Says Aron: “You would expect the air quality inside to be better than outside. But it’s not. All air-conditioning in a closed environment does is circulate the air, keeping it within the same space.

We spend 90 percent of our time indoors, which is why indoor air pollution is so much more dangerous than its equivalent outdoors.”

A number of Vietnam-based companies — including diabetes care company Novo Nordisk

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Vietnam and diamond manufacturer Rydiam Saigon — have already installed air purifiers on their premises, at their own expense. Elsewhere, the United Nations International School (UNIS) in Hanoi has created a protocol for taking daily air quality readings in their school. Over a fourday period in March their measurements moved between moderate (50,000 to 100,000 fine particles per litre of air) and unhealthy (150,000 to 200,000 fine particles per litre of air).

For the Kids The International School of Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) is also taking daily readings. Says deputy headmaster Adrian Watts, “I do the tests at 7am. And we’ve had a student take regular tests — she does them at 9am, noon, 2pm and 4.30pm.”

He adds: “When it’s rainy and windy, the readings go down. They go up and down during the cycle of a day as well. They’re higher in the morning, then they decline into the early afternoon, and mid-afternoon they start to rise again.”

ISHCMC’s concern with air quality has led them towards the conclusions Novo Nordisk Vietnam and Rydiam Saigon have already arrived at. The school recently installed a hospital-quality air purifying system in the Early Years and Kindergarten classrooms, as well as in an open space called the Atrium.

“The type of pollution here, which is smallparticle pollution, is most dangerous for the youngest students in the school,” explains Adrian, who confirms that the institution is committed to extending the programme to the rest of the school. “So the decision was made to have purer air for their classroom areas, as that’s where they are working most of the time, and to make those environments as nice as possible for the students.

“For us it’s about protecting the students we’ve got at the school, it’s about child welfare and child wellbeing. Our mission is to energise, engage and empower, because if the children are breathing poor air, then it makes them less energised, and if they’re less energised it makes their engagement less.”

Vietnam is a country still dealing with the big problems — infrastructure and development — which means the ‘details’, such as regulating factory emissions and exhaust fumes will take time.

For the time being, to ensure the health of ourselves, our families and our places of work, we need to take the air quality issue into our own hands. The only problem is the expense.

As Adrian says, it’s not cheap. However, he adds, “if you have a centralised air system and put everything in at source when you’re building a building, it is much much cheaper to install.”

Air Quality Index Measured in fine particles per litre of air 0 – 50,000 — Good Air Quality 50,000 – 100,000 — Moderate 101,000 – 150,000 — Unhealthy for Sensitive Groups 151,000 – 200,000 — Unhealthy 201,000 – 300,000 — Very Unhealthy 300,000 and above — Hazardous

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 21

Photo by Francis Xavier

ISHCMC students measure air quality in a controlled environment

In August 2013, the average air quality in Ho Chi Minh City was 140,000. In Hanoi it was 160,000.

briefings

BRIEFING

HANOI

Mystery Quest Quest took to the hills for their latest experiment

T

he first thing we noticed after our 2.5km hike into the festival grounds were the giant penis statues. The work of artist Dao Anh Khanh, these things were 50 feet tall. One of them had a ballsack.

I don’t remember if reggae was playing, but there was definitely a chilled-out vibe. The few hundred people were calmly milling, sipping beers and drinking in the wondrous mountain valley around them. All around were limestone karsts, unexpected streams, waterfalls, freakycostumed types and the surreality that Khanh is carving into his slice of paradise.

Electronic music parties in Vietnam often tend towards that “dark-hearted disco” feel — take some house records, some sexy people and a desperate need to forget the workweek, and see where it gets you by 5am. Quest’s atmosphere was a blast of fresh air. It showed on everyone’s faces.

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I ran the hills. Not having been in such an endless landscape for months, it felt exhilarating.

Night descended, and the party went on. Party things happened. On a rock jutting out of the hillside — the ‘Ambient Altar’ — I took it all in with my partner in sound sculpting, Alex McCarl (the guy with the freaky face-paint). We set the spoken words of Alan Watts to a rolling ambient soundtrack, passing around iPads programmed with learning-curve-less audio sequencer app NodeBeat. It was an experiment in weird bliss.

Watching the sun come up, survivors of the night journeyed to our rock. And, watching the sunrise on another day, we felt like we’d actually gotten somewhere.

— Ed Weinberg Get into the Quest pipeline at facebook.com/ questfestival

BUILDING OF THE MONTH

HCMC

Uncle Hoa's Mansion One of Ho Chi Minh City's best known landmarks has a storied history

Y

ou might know the buildings that the Hui Bon Hoa Company built in the early 20th century. The most famous, ‘Uncle Hoa’s Mansion’, is currently the site of the Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum. The crowded walls of art displayed inside look like something the real estate and pawnshop tycoon might have accrued in his life, material proof of his enormous wealth.

But Hui Bon Hoa died nearly 30 years before work on these buildings started. It was the second generation of his clan that built the four original buildings — only three of which remain.

Construction of the residential quarters of his son Thang Hung Hui Bon Hoa — now the main exhibition space of the museum — began in 1929 and

24 | Word May 2015 | wordvietnam.com

went through to 1934. Influenced by the Indochine Style then in fashion, the building fused traditional Asian features and trendy Art Deco elements for a look that was a hit in the Chinese-speaking world. People even started telling ghost stories about the building — a building so extraordinary should hold secrets, and their guesses were of an obvious sort.

While the exhibition spaces of the museum are decently upkept, the same isn’t true for the whole complex. Their memories are left to decay naturally, paint chip by flaking paint chip. — Ed Weinberg These photos are part of a collection of images

by Alexandre Garel which will eventually be turned into a book. To see more of his work go to instagram.com/saigonsnaps

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 25

briefings

A Pig Called Julian

Charity of the

Month

Based in Hoi An, the Vietnam Animal Welfare Organization (VAWO) is on a mission. They're trying to improve the standard of care for animals in this country.

Words by Jon Aspin

H

ave you ever taped a bird’s wings back together after it kamikaze’d into your freshly cleaned front windows? Have you befriended a thirsty possum? Or gone home with a gecko in your top pocket? If so, you might love animals, which is great, because we do too.

We also know someone else who does, a lot. Her name is Emma Bolton, and by a lot I mean she currently lives in a house with 42 rescued cats. 42. That’s a big bag of kitty litter, and it doesn’t stop there. Also splitting bills with her are seven dogs, four chickens, three ducks, a pig called Julian and one extremely understanding Vietnamese man — a man Emma met within three months of being here six years ago, a man she now calls her fiancé.

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Notwithstanding happy nuptials, the situation is not her ideal one. That, she explains, would be when she doesn’t have to do this job at all — as manager and co-founder of the Vietnam Animal Welfare Organization (VAWO), the animal rescue and veterinary clinic in Hoi An she set up two years ago with her friend Catherine Besch.

Completely self-funded, they were both inspired into action by some early experiences taking on stray cats.

These included Emma’s first, a mother of five kittens that was stolen to the meat trade — yes, cats are on the menu here too.

Activism When we catch up over Skype, Emma has competition for the mic — I can hear her extended brood. However this doesn’t stop her from some fast-paced words about everything her growing cadre of animal activists have been up to. It’s their mission to not only rescue and repatriate lost kittens, but to educate, lobby for change and improve the standard of care for animals in this country.

Emma explained that the volume of animals they’ve taken in, mostly cats from tourists and expats who find them dumped along the road, has left the organisation without any room to give. “We’re overcrowded, we’ve got too many,” she says.

This immediate need for space has seen them target a

much bigger property, but without funding for an appropriate fence, they’re stuck in the current situation. The logic goes that with a bigger space — and a cat café also planned — more people will be able to come to the house, learn about responsible pet care, and adopt more pets. This is the ultimate goal, she explains, and the primary focus of their current fundraising effort.

Vets Without Borders

Photos provided by VAWO

Another part of the VAWO programme sees volunteer vets come from around the world.

At present they’ve got two, working mostly with locals to cure sick pets, teaching them how to properly care for their animals. It’s a service that generates huge word of mouth, Emma says, as news spreads fast of foreign animal doctors working in the area.

It’s the need for education and awareness that also saw the VAWO team take part in the recent International Say No to Dog Meat Day. Emma has lost multiple dogs and cats to the mysterious trucks and often violent men on bikes who swoop in during the night, stealing people’s pets for slaughter.

Ultimately, she says, it will take a change

in the law for this to stop, and that’s what the march on Apr. 4 was about. Cycling through town, handing out fliers to restaurants and their diners, holding up banners, VAWO represented Vietnam on a global stage and were happy to add their presence to the international voice against the dog trade. And Emma was happy to see so many young Vietnamese get behind it.

But that’s a long game, she admits, with implications beyond the rank and file. Right now, she has a fence to build, quite literally, a clinic to keep running and a café to plan for. On top of that, she’s got the twicedaily cleans she performs for her beloveds, feeding, hand-rearing new arrivals — coupled with a day job selling clothes and a night job taking care of fundraising. If, as Mahatma Ghandi once said, “The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated,” Vietnam has a huge ally in Emma Bolton and her team at VAWO. To support Vietnam Animal Welfare Organization’s fence fund, go to life.indiegogo. com/fundraisers/new-home-for-vietnam-s-rescuecats or visit vnanimalwelfare.org

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 27

briefings

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wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 29

Sports Digest

SPORTS DIGEST

NATIONAL

The SEA Games

B

Vietnam's national basketball team prepares for the forthcoming Southeast Asian Games. Words by Harry Hodge. Photo by Kyle Phanroy

asketball has made massive strides in Vietnam in the last four years, and the return of the men’s national team to the regional sporting scene means the sky’s the limit for the sport.

With Saigon Heat taking part in the ASEAN Basketball League (ABL) and playing to packed houses, they made the playoffs for the first time last year. Now head coach Anthony Garbelotto has added

30 | Word May 2015 | wordvietnam.com

to his duties since being named skipper of the men’s national team. Absent from regional competition for several years, the squad will get thrown into the deep end next month as part of the Southeast Asian Games in Singapore.

“The two projects are quite different,” Garbelotto said. “National team tournaments are always intense and the preparation is in some ways shorter.

“You have to arrive in great shape and

then hope that your team can get some momentum. Saigon Heat and the ABL is in a league format where you have more chances to scout and make adjustments over a period of time.”

The national team will play Cambodia twice at the Canadian International School in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 7 as part of its preparations. Those games take place on Friday, May 15 and Sunday, May 17, with the opening tip set for 7.30pm.

Thailand, Vietnam to Square Off at SEA Games Vietnam’s football team will play against archrival Thailand during the upcoming 28th Southeast Asian Games in Singapore this June, according to Vietnam News.

Just a day after the draw of the World Cup qualifier, the two teams will meet each other again in Group B, along with Malaysia, Laos, Brunei and East Timor.

Thailand, the defending champions, are the top-seeded team in the group.

In Group A, hosts Singapore are the top seed. Also in their group are Indonesia, Myanmar, Cambodia and the Philippines.

Vietnam Set for Summer Motorbike Festival With the theme ‘Make Your Ride More Colourful’, the 2015 Vietnam Motorbike Festival will be launched in Ho Chi Minh City on Jul. 11, with numerous events and activities for riders in Vietnam.

An international motorcycle show will also display more than 100 motorbikes of well-known brands. Represented at the event are Benelli, Ducati, Keeway, KTM, Kawasaki, Royal Enfield and Indian Motorcycle.

More Match-Fixing Charges in V-League The Ministry of Public Security has wrapped up investigations of several Dong Nai players accused of manipulating the result of a V-League football match last season, according to Thanh Nhien.

The club’s captain, Pham Huu Phat, got five other players involved in fixing their away match against Than Quang Ninh on July 20, which Dong Nai lost 5-3, investigators alleged.

They have proposed charges of gambling and organising gambling against Phat. The other five — Nguyen Thanh Long Giang, Dinh Kien Trung, Nguyen Duc Thien, Ha Niem Tien, and goalkeeper Phan Luu The Son — face gambling charges. Tran Van Ba, the bookie that Phat contacted, and four of his accomplices also face charges of organising gambling.

Athletes to Watch While basketball and football are always the two main team sports to watch in any big competition, here are some individual performers from Vietnam you should watch as part of our SEA Games primer: Swimming: Vietnam’s top female swimmer Nguyen Thi Anh Vien won a gold medal in the women’s 200m medley at the 2015 United States National Swimming Championships. She beat 190 competitors to take the lead with a time of 2:16.06. In the women’s 100m backstroke, the 18-year-old swimmer also won a silver medal with a time of 1:04.07.

Last year, Vien won two Asian Games bronze medals that were Vietnam’s first ever at the Games. She also set seven records at the ASEAN Swimming Championships,

and dominated the national tournament with 18 titles and 14 records.

Athletics: Hoang Van Thai triumphed in the men’s 800m event, finishing the race in 1:52.95 at the 92nd Malaysia Open Track and Field Championships, which closed in Kuala Lumpur last month. Do Thi Thao stood second in the women’s 800m race, with a timing of 2:08.95. Le Thi Huyen topped the women’s 400m race a timing of 53.34. Quach Cong Lich won the men’s 400m category in 46.99.

Gymnastics: A bright star on the gymnastics side, Phan Thi Ha Thanh won the gold medal in the women’s beam event in the 8th FIG Artistic Gymnastics Challenge Cup in Qatar.

Vietnam Weightlifter Wins Silver at Junior Worlds Weightlifter Nguyen Tran Anh Tuan pocketed three silver medals at the IWF Youth World Championships in Lima, Peru, according to Vietnam News.

Tuan, competing in the men’s 56kg category, came second in the snatch (115kg), clean-and-jerk (145kg) and total (260kg).

Chinese Lin Zhixiang bagged three gold medals (116kg, 146kg, and 262kg). tes upda The bronze medal in Sendout yourp or ab g grou @ the snatch event went in ry to Vietnam’s Ly Quang sportnt to har .com eve vietnam Vinh with a lift of 105kg. rd

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wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 31

briefings BRIEFING

HCMC

l l a b e g d o D Saigon t n e m a n r u o T

Which bad pun-named team will win this year?

T

he fifth time’s a charm for the Saigon Dodgeball Tournament, as this colourful staple of the sporting calendar returns to District 3 this year, with eight teams vying for the city’s dodgeball crown.

“I think the costumes and competitiveness get people excited,” says long-time organiser Daren Cheng. “(The teams) have a couple of months to prepare and then say they’re the best.”

Cheng played in the first tournament, stepped back to take on organising duties in editions two and three, and returned to the court as a competitor in number four. (Full disclosure: I’ll be MC’ing this tournament for the third year in a row). He’s still smarting over being defeated by last year’s champs, The Game of Throws, who played with a medieval theme.

“Every tournament is different,” Cheng says. “Teams come up with really fun names.”

He also says that no matter what, as long as a team has one player remaining on the court, they always have a chance to win. “A novice player can stage a comeback from one catch.”

As the club has grown, the Vietnamese

32 | Word May 2015 | wordvietnam.com

membership has steadily increased.

Numbers-wise, locals and expats are now on an even footing. Cheng also pointed to the growth of a scene in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, where a former Saigon dodgeballer helped establish a club in that city. — Harry Hodge The 2015 Saigon Dodgeball Tournament will

be at Rach Mieu Stadium, 1 Hoa Phuong Street, Q3, HCMC on May 23. Registration closed at the beginning of May, but spectators are invited to take in all the fun.

To play in the regular club nights, head to 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, HCMC — Mondays and Wednesdays at 8pm. For more info, visit their Facebook page or saigondodgeball.org

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wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 33

to do list

08

Ho Chi Minh City

FRIDAY

TRAVEL MASSIVE MEETUP If you’re a travel pro, this networking event is one to check. Southeast Asia’s most experienced travellers are descending on Saigon this month for a free event open to everyone in the industry: destination managers, agents, airlines, hoteliers and anyone else with an interest. The event takes place in the new KOTO location in Kumho Plaza.

Travel Massive Saigon starts at 7pm, at the new KOTO location, upstairs at Kumho Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, HCMC. Admission is free but the organisers request you RSVP at facebook.com/ travelmassivesaigon

09

#

SATURDAY

DRUM CLINIC

DREAMWORKER

Southeast Asia’s leading drum clinician Kenny Hogan — world-music artist, Singapore International Foundationsponsored cultural emissary — is coming to Saigon Outcast in May to teach Saigon some highlevel pop, rock, jazz and fusion moves. The two-hour clinic will

cover hand and foot technique, linear exercises, listening to other musicians and soloing in odd time signatures. Saigon’s aspiring Alex Van Halen’s need look no further — Kenny is going to school you.

Kenny Hogan’s drum clinic happens at Saigon Outcast — 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC

16

CELTIC FESTIVAL

SATURDAY

MID-MAY

The next Gouel Breizh or Breton Day will take place in Ho Chi Minh City at Cargo Bar. The Breton society in Vietnam has invited musicians from all over the world to present all aspects of Celtic music. More than 40 artists and seven bands will perform, among them The Kemperle Pipe Band, Lang Dzu Band, Alan Pennec and Turbo Sans Visa. The Breton Society in Vietnam aims to promote the knowledge of Brittany, its culture, its history

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Craig Thomas Gallery brings art to Hi Chi Minh City. In mid-May, they’ll present a solo exhibition of the work of Saigon-based photographer Le Nguyen Duy Phuong.

Displaying work from two of his most recent series titled Holding Water and

Dreamworkers, this work won’t go unnoticed. There’s also two amazing pieces left in their online auction.

Craig Thomas Gallery is at 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, HCMC, or online at cthomasgallery.com. To arrange a viewing call Ms. Thu on 0937 112341

and its economy.

Ticket are available for pre-sale from Cargo for VND100,000 or at

the door for VND150,000. Cargo Bar is at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Fifty Shades of Expat

Tanktop Romeo

For more info on Score Tech click on score-tech.net wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 35

to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

The Month in Observatory Saigon’s dark-hearted disco has been stacking up the jams lately, and this month is no exception. All parties take place at Saigon’s favourite late night hub — 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC, starting around 10pm Japanese people mover, DJ Yogurt, to play at Observatory on May 16

Saturday 2

Friday 15

Pepperpot

Joakim

Greg Pepperpot’s passion for sound is unique in its depth and power. This is the Rex Club in Paris resident’s second visit to the city and his first gig at The Observatory’s new venue. You can expect his organic-sounding electronic rhythms from the worlds of house and techno to capture and direct the dance floor in a way that makes people move on and on.

Joakim’s productions and DJ sets cannot be described by genre names. Coming from a background in classical music and jazz, he fuses a vast array of influences and vocals into his sound, resulting in a high-powered and synth-heavy aesthetic that shakes dance floors.

Friday 8

DJ Yogurt

Horasse Eclectic electro specialist Horasse has featured on the lineups of the most prestigious clubs in Switzerland, serving up a highly specialised dish of vinyl-plated audio goodness from house and techno to disco. This will be precise and powerful — not one to miss.

Saturday 9 MadderModes One half of Saigon-based Observatory resident Nic Ford — the other Manchester-based Andy Harper — MadderModes has just had a release on the highly acclaimed Millions of Moments label that has won plays and plaudits by the likes of Nick Hoppner. This night will see the two production partners spinning together for a techno-soaked night of deepness.

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Saturday 16 A key figure in the Japanese and Tokyo electronic music scene, DJ Yogurt is a prolific people mover who has played alongside the likes of Todd Terje and Derrick May. He’ll be bringing his big bag of house, disco and techno bombs to set the floor on fire with his signature partystarting attitude.

Friday 22 Ben La Desh Cutting edge house is the name of the game on this night. Holland-based Ben La Desh’s roots in Africa have infused his productions and sets with a coat of tropical attitude that makes for a simply irresistible sound cocktail.

Saturday 23 Local Flavor w/Starchild, Lotus

Disco and Nic Ford The monthly night dedicated to the talent present in our own city, Local Flavor will witness the disco-flare of Lotus Disco, the house and groove power of Starchild and eclectic electronic precision of Nic Ford.

All will come together for a mixed salad of serious sound to bump up the dance floor.

Friday 29 Cliché Records Night w/VISA and Hibiya Line The Cliché boss and major Observatory ally VISA is back in town to join Observatory resident, co-founder and Cliché member Hibiya Line for a night of disco, house and techno. Get ready for a showcase from an emerging power of the East Asian electronic sound axis.

Saturday 30 EA&OC Loft Party w/Nic Ford, Dan Lo and Hibiya Line The trio that brought you the rumble in the jungle, the Elisa Boat party and countless other good times throughout the city are back in force after their twoyear anniversary last month. For this installation, they’re going old-school and keeping the night to themselves. Expect Afrobeat and funk to intertwine with serious house and techno as the night progresses.

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SATURDAY

LYSISTRATA’S TOGA PARTY THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OPEN HOUSE It’s never too early to introduce your child to the highfalutin world of top hats and coattails that enrollment in The American School will no doubt gain them admission to. And so, The American School presents its annual “Ice Cream Social”, a classy event serving the luxuriously toothsome delicacies of Baskin Robbins, Binggrae

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and Fanny — for breakfast. In addition, there will be student-led tours, teacher meetings, student council displays and music and drama department performances.

For more information on the festivities, write to admissions@ tasvietnam.edu.vn. The Ice Cream Social goes from 9am to 11.30am, at 117A, 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC

Saigon Players is mixing it up a little more than they usually do, inviting the whole phalanx down to take part. Lysistrata is the protagonist of an Aristophanes play — a sexual strategist who convinces the women of ancient Greece to withhold 'services' from their men as a means of forcing them to negotiate an end to the Peloponnesian War. Grab your fanciest white bed sheet and get down to Saigon Outcast for a night of arm

wrestling, live music, dancing, slave auctions and prizes for the best dressed. Leave your swords at home — unless you, um, need them — and prepare to raise a cup to Bacchus!

Doors open at 6pm and a performance is scheduled for 7pm at Saigon Outcast, 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC. Tickets are VND150,000 and benefit the HCMC Women’s Charity Association. For more info go to facebook.com/saigonplayers

SATURDAY

SPRING CHARITY BAZAAR It’s that time of year again, the biannual Charity Bazaar at The Deck in District 2. With over 55 unique vendors bringing their latest wares to the table — quite literally, there’s bound to be something for all tastes. As always the event is in support of Heartbeat Vietnam, funding crucial heart surgeries for children from disadvantaged backgrounds. Vietnam Quilts, Mekong Creations and Operation Smile are among the crafters and charities participating.

Entrance is free, the event runs from 9.30am until 3.30pm. The Deck is at 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, HCMC

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to do list

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Ho Chi Minh City

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SATURDAY

INDOCHINE CUP Now in its 16th year of competition, the Indochine Cup is a 10-a-side full contact rugby and six-a-side touch tournament held on an annual basis between Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.

For the first time since 2011 its Saigon’s turn to host, with Myanmar also invited to take part. Having gone back-to-back since 2011, and with longtime

SATURDAY

2015 BOURBON STREET JAZZ FESTIVAL servant Tom Percasky soon moving on, it’s sure to be a memorable weekend for the Saigon Geckos rugby team, who have promised to do everything they can to hang onto their trophy.

Check out all the action at RMIT’s South Saigon Campus — 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, HCMC — between 11am and 6pm

The Bourbon Street Jazz Festival is back at Q4, a fusion of everything that’s good about jazz, funk and blues. The headliner this time is the much sought after Paris-local Nina van Horn and her International Blues Band, who’ll be using Saigon to kick off their Asian tour. Supported by new funk phenoms the Brooklyn Funky

Blues Band as well as Claudio and the Bad Neighbors, you can be sure that they’ll tearing down the house as usual. Support Kids First and Arts for Mobility by getting your tickets — VND500,000 — for this one soon!

For advance and group ticket sales enquiries, email rogerf@seanet. com — and watch for updates on bourbonstreetjazzfestival.com

Rescue of the Month: Peaches

O

ur Rescue of the Month is the irrepressible chicken Peaches, who’s needed quite a bit of rescuing in her short time with Hoi An’s Vietnam Animal Welfare Organisation. She first came to co-founder Emma Bolton’s attention as she was playing the part of a very inappropriate cat toy: “The cat was chasing the chicken, I was chasing the cat, the other cats were chasing me and our dogs were chasing the cats.

Anyway, the poor thing had a nasty wound on her leg. We have a volunteer vet here at the moment, and we had the option of putting this chicken to sleep or attempting to operate on her to stitch her up. Our vet had never done a chicken op before but we thought we would give it a go.

“Unsure if she would wake up from the anaesthesia we gave it a shot, and sure enough she pulled through. Now, her leg has almost healed fully. The vet named her Peaches. She is still with us — and away from the cats!”

If you’re in Central Vietnam and you’d like to adopt Peaches — or perhaps one of the furrier friends in Vietnam Animal Welfare Organisation’s stable — visit vnanimalwelfare.org. To donate directly to their work, visit gofundme.com/vnanimalwelfare.org

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SAVE

The Date

06+07

JUN.

CELEBRATION Dancenter’s last 200-person spectacular was tremendous, and this one will be no less so. Featuring 200 Dancenterschooled performers tapping their way through jazz, ballet, hip hop, contemporary, tap, flamenco, belly dance and high heel routines, it’s a celebration of

the true meaning behind dancing — to go out there and shake what you’ve got.

Celebration takes place at the Youth Culture House, 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1, HCMC — 7.30pm on Jun. 6, 3pm on Jun. 7. Tickets start at VND150,000. For more info, go to dancenter.vn

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just in

Ho Chi Minh City

GREENS SALAD DELIVERY SERVICE Remember when it used to be damn near impossible to get quality salads in Ho Chi Minh City? Well, the last year has seen a sea change, with the build-your-own mainstay Beets (111 Ham Nghi, Q1, HCMC) competing with an across-the-board increase in lunchtime options.

Well, grass-munchers, your office hours just got easier to sort. Starting at VND30,000, GreenS offers seven preset salad options, couscous salad and mushroom soup — along with a crazy amount of customisable options.

If you want to put a little ‘spring’ back in your step, give these guys a lunchtime look.

GreenS is at facebook.com/GreenS.com.vn, or call 01264 856772

TAU SAIGON Some people are born entrepreneurs, and Jochem Lisser is one of them. Together with his partner, Hanh Nguyen, the man behind vietnammm.com has now extended his business savvy reach to include boat tours on a beautiful open boat plying the murky depths and palm tree-lined banks of the Saigon River.

Comfortably seating up to 28 people, Tau Saigon is set up for river tours, birthday parties, weddings and business events,

with a range of catering options (barbecues and lunches all served up with draft beer) available on board. All making it perfect for that intimate kind of event that is difficult to find on the various other boat services around town.

To find out about the routes available and the various catering options, click on the boat service’s website — tausaigon.com/en — or alternatively call 0909 844813

Hue, across from the old Tax Center, the boutique will showcase Harmony’s Asian sensibilities and global material sourcing.

With Italian leather, French crystal and Chinese jade — as well as a host of other natural, locally-sourced materials

— Dror’s necklaces reflect her quest for beauty and desire to gracefully unite elements.

Harmony Necklaces’ flagship location is at the corner of Nguyen Hue and Le Loi, Q1, HCMC — harmonynecklaces.com

HARMONY NECKLACES GOES SOLO Well-loved local artisan Dror Lam — the star of our June 2013 Last Call interview — is finally giving her creations the space they deserve with the launch of the Harmony Necklaces flagship store. Set to open on the walkable stretch of Nguyen

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IT’S SPRING/SUMMER IN RB&K STYLE

THE SHARK’S COURSE SIGNS ROBERT ROCK Five months after taking part in its grand opening exhibition match, two-time European Tour winner Robert Rock has just signed a three-year partnership agreement with The Bluffs golf course at The GrandHo Tram Strip. The deal between the acclaimed Greg Norman-designed links course and the Englishman with one of the sweetest swings on tour marks the first time a Vietnamese course has sponsored a touring pro of such calibre.

“It’s a match made in heaven,” says general manager Ben Styles. “Robert is not only a great golfer, he’s a class act.” The signing is another step in the development of the whole area, with three more five-star hotels, an oceanfront condominium tower and luxury villas on the golf course all in the works.

For enquiries contact Matter Horn Communications on (08) 3911 2162 or email tram.nguyen@matcomvn.com

RB&K is back for the season shift with a new line of dashing threads, comprised of three mini-collections: trendy/urban, pop art and casual. This collection — named Geometrip — is based on designerfounder Rebecca Bargas’ recent move to Berlin, through her observations of the new architecture and people. Born on the

crossroads of European and Asian culture, RB&K has emerged with a combination style, using untraditional fabrics to capture the breezy simplicity that comes in shifting worlds effortlessly.

Check out RB&K’s new Spring/Summer Collection at rbkandco.com, or browse through their styles at 81 Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC

IB STATUS FOR EIS The European International School has announced its accreditation of International Baccalaureate programmes for all students at its Kindergarten through Year 12 campus in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2. In so doing EIS becomes one of very few schools in Southeast Asia to offer the world’s leading educational

curriculum to students of all ages.

“The IB programme brings virtual universal acceptance for tertiary education for graduates, and indeed has become the preferred university track for students,” says Dr. Nguyen Thi Quynh Lam, the school’s president.

For more info, go to eishcmc.com

overscene ho chi minh

existens fashion show

Photos by Francis Xavier Mad House hosted Existens’ “Mother and Daughter” fashion show, to support the Thymus Cancer Foundation

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zero station f Lea market

Photos by Glen Riley The Saigonese art hub is helping to define the crossroads of art, commerce and cute little knickknacks

in situ

Photos by Kyle Phanroy Galerie Quynh hosted HTA+pizzini Architects’ high-concept responses to the evolution of Saigon’s built environment

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

anzac music night Photos by Nick Ross Down Under represented itself at Cargo Bar, with the help of headliners Tiki Taane and Anika Moa

daytime disco

Photos by Francis Xavier Saigon Outcast said hello to the bigtime with a sold-out, circus-themed daytime boogie

beyond the clouds

Photos by Ed Weinberg San Art christened its new space with a translucent pink sky of a conversation piece

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hanoi

WEDNESDAY

08

FRIDAY

QUEER DISCO #7 Hankering for the hits of Madonna, Prince and Kylie? Back for May, this free-for-all night of glitter and glamour will take you on a disco adventure, with all the best pop and underground hits of the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s brought to you by resident DJs Analogeliza and La Pham Nikita. House rules are simple: be fabulous and dance.

Queer Disco will be held at CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. For more information, visit the CAMA ATK Facebook page

HANOI SLAM Hanoi Slam returns for the first time this year with Word Ninjas. Tell a story, recite poetry or perform stand-up for up to five minutes for the chance to win great prizes and killer street cred. Non-performers also welcome. Admission is VND50,000 with all proceeds going to the Humanitarian Services for the Children of Vietnam.

Word Ninjas will descend on the Red River Tea Room, Tu Hoa Lane, 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Interested performers can register by emailing athanoistoryslam@gmail.com. Doors open from 7pm

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

THE EUROPEAN FOOD FESTIVAL EuroCham will be holding the ninth annual European Food Festival on Saturday May 9 in the gardens of the National Library.

With chefs from different hotels and restaurants presenting their takes on classical and contemporary European fare, the festival will also celebrate not only Europe Day, but 25 years of diplomatic relations between the European Union and Vietnam.

800 to 1,000 people are expected to attend.

As well as offering a culinary adventure, there will be live music, entertainment and children’s activities, including a bouncing castle, a lucky draw and scientific experiments using food.

The National Library is at 31 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi and the festival kicks off at 4pm on Saturday May 9. Entrance is free of charge. For more information email marketing@eurochamvn. org or call (08) 3827 2715

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Photos provied by EUROCHAM

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09

FRIDAY

WHEN WE MEET Feast on a musical collage of talent, when two of Malaysia’s leading saxophone and voice improvisers, Yong Yan-Sen and Kok Siew-Wai, perform with Hanoian electronic artist Luong Hue Trinh.

When We Meet will be held at CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Admission costs VND100,000, with performances starting at 8pm. For more information, visit the CAMA ATK Facebook page

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CELTIC MUSIC FESTIVAL @ L’ESPACE Feast your ears on the Celtic sounds of this touring music festival featuring fusion artist Lang Dzu, pipe band Bagad Bro Kemperle, Celtic folk artist Breman and Celtic rocker Diaouled Saigon. Doors open at 8pm.

The Celtic Music Festival is organized by

the Breton Society in Vietnam and will be held at the L’Espace French Cultural Institute, 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Pre-sale tickets can be bought at L’Espace, Biniou Creperie, The Kitchen and Chez Xuan for VND100,000.

Normal admission is VND150,000 at the door — free for children under six

The road to clean air

Swiss quality air in your home, kindergarten, school, office, and hospitals.

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to do list

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hanoi

SATURDAY ARTHUR RUSSELL TRIBUTE NIGHT Celebrate the anniversary of American musician Arthur Russell’s birthday with a documentary film screening, followed by a dance party featuring his non-stop hits.

The Arthur Russell Tribute Night will be held at CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. For more information, visit the CAMA ATK Facebook page.

MOTION WITH BEN LA DESH MoTioN, the regular night at Madake that combines video mapping and music, returns on Saturday May 23 with guest DJ, Ben La Desh.

A deep house, techno DJ and producer from The Netherlands, Ben La Desh is known for known for his mid-tempo deep house productions and slow-mo disco edits. Having released a range of work on different record labels including Sleazy Beats Black Ops, Dirt Crew Recordings and Outernational Recordings, to hear more of Ben La Desh’s work, do a search for him on Soundcloud.

Entrance is VND100,000 and the event starts at 10pm. Madake is at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

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FRIDAY

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KID’S COOKING CLASS @ HANOI COOKING CENTRE Any budding junior masterchefs out there?

Let your kids roll up their sleeves and try their hand at making fun and simple dishes at a supervised session hosted by the Hanoi Cooking Centre.

The Kid’s Cooking Class will start at 3.30pm and the cost is VND320,000 per child. Advance bookings are required — email info@ hanoicookingcentre.com or call (04) 3715 0088

ALY AND FILA Trance fans get out your neons because worldrenowned Egyptian trance act Aly and Fila are coming to Hanoi. Courtesy of Vibration Events and Excite Entertainment, the Egyptian duo will be spinning at the newly revamped Eden Club into the early hours of the morning.

Aly and Fila will be held at the Eden Club, Alley 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For more information on tickets, visit the Vibration Hanoi and Eden Garden Facebook pages

to do list

hanoi SAVE

The Date

ASEAN PRIDE

Photos by Aidan Dockery

The US Embassy in Hanoi and CAMA Vietnam are joining forces once again to bring the day-long celebration of diversity back to the capital on Saturday Jun. 20.

Headlined by US-Vietnamese queen of indie-rock Thao Nguyen, alongside Malaysian electro-pop sensation O.J. Law, also on stage will be Saigon rockers COCC, DJ Lotus Disco, To Lam and his high-heel dancers and a host of other local and international acts all to be announced in the weeks ahead.

ASEAN Pride 2015 is already

shaping up to be one of the musical highlights of the year.

With art space, a local makers market and of course top-quality food and drink, the festival will once again showcase the quality and diversity of the region’s emerging underground, while creating a safe space to celebrate sexual and gender diversity.

Last year’s event drew in over 4,000 people to the American Club in Hanoi. This year’s offering is shaping up to be even bigger and better.

For more details head to camavietnam.org

Image provided by Les Phap’bulateurs

PALACE

Image from the production Mademoiselle Bonsoir

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The French theatre group, Les Phap’bulateurs will be returning on Jun. 3 and 4 to L’Espace with a French language performance of the Jean-Michel Ribes comedic play, Palace.

With a multi-nationality acting troupe — the actors come from France, Vietnam, Belgium, Italy and Belarus — if previous performances of Mademoiselle Bonsoir and Le Dindon are anything to go by, expect tickets

to go fast for this one. If you don’t speak French, no need to worry. Palace will be staged with Vietnamese subtitles — perfect for all those Anglophiles out there who forgot to focus on their language studies.

For more information check out the troupe’s Facebook group — Les Phap'bulateurs — or click on phapbulateurs.com. L’Espace is at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi.

Doors open at 8pm

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hanoi

MAJCEN AND REID VICTORIOUS AT THE HANOI VERTICAL RUN

it further than some several thousand others who entered the international competition.

His story has been published in the bestselling Science Fiction anthology series — L. Ron Hubbard Presents Writers of the Future Volume 31.

Volume 31 is now available online at Amazon.com, Kobo.com and BN.com

Rolf Majcen of Austria won the third edition of the Hanoi Vertical Run last month, setting the overall fastest time up Landmark 72 — Vietnam’s tallest building.

Majcen’s first victory in Hanoi, the Austrian finished in a time of 10 minutes and 38 seconds to take home the overall title.

In the women’s division, Australia’s Cindy Reid climbed to her first win of the year, finishing in 14 minutes 33 seconds, beating USA’s Samantha Young by 53 seconds.

“I had to dig deep today to win,” she said. “To be crowned the Hanoi Vertical Run champion is a great honour.”

Vietnam’s only stair climbing race was selected as an exhibition race on the 2015 Vertical World Circuit (VWC).

The world’s premier skyscraper racing circuit, the VWC unites some of the world’s most iconic skyscraper races, including the Empire State Building Run-Up in New York City.

For more information go to runhanoi.com

MGallery has now opened its first upscale property in Hoi An — Hotel Royal Hoi An. Standing on the banks of the Thu Bon River, the hotel is blessed with a wonderful vista of the low-rise cityscape.

The hotel’s architecture draws

upon ancient Vietnamese and Japanese influences in a display of quasi-European style with a contemporary twist.

With 119 dark woodadorned guestrooms, all with handcrafted furnishings and fixtures, the property also has

several food and beverage venues including Faifo Café and Japanese food outlet Wa Ka Ku, as well as a 250-person capacity ballroom and a spa.

For more information go to mgallery.com or email reservation@hotelroyalhoian.com

HANOI-BASED WRITER HONOURED IN HOLLYWOOD AWARDS Hanoi-based Australian writer, Tim Napper, was honoured last month at the 31st Annual L. Ron Hubbard Achievement awards.

The annual live-streamed event celebrates the winners in the L. Ron Hubbard Writers and Illustrators of the Future Contests before a packed hall of over 1,000 guests. Tim was one of the 12 writer winners making

HOTEL ROYAL HOI AN If you know Hanoi’s Hotel de l’Opera then you may know MGallery, the Accor-owned management company behind the hotel.

Not content with properties in Hanoi, Phu Quoc and elsewhere in Vietnam,

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AIR QUALITY IN THE CAPITAL The U.S. Embassy in Hanoi has installed a monitor to measure the air quality at its building on Lang Ha in Hanoi’s Ba Dinh District.

With the Air Quality Monitoring programme in its initial phase, the embassy will initially provide a 24-hour average of the Air Quality Index. However, over time the diplomatic arm of the American government will provide more

frequent and timely readings.

At present the readings are showing the pollution levels in the vicinity of the embassy be ‘unhealthy’, a concern for residents of the capital.

To see the readings, go to vietnam.usembassy.gov/air_quality_ monitor.html. The Vietnamese Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment also provides air quality data for Hanoi. This can be viewed at cem.gov.vn

THE BEER GUIDE TO VIETNAM If you’ve ever met ex-Hanoi resident Jonathan Gharbi, then you’ll know he’s obsessed with beer and in particular Vietnam’s microbreweries.

The Swede has taken this one step further with the publication of his book, The Beer Guide to Vietnam. Available on Amazon and published by Vulkan, the guide has pictures and details of more than 45 microbreweries. Based on more than 300 visits and brewery tours that were made between

2012 and 2014, the book starts with the breweries in Ho Chi Minh City before covering every known destination up to Hanoi, which is the capital of beer with more than 20 breweries. Most of these establishments are unknown, hard to find and only attract a local crowd. More than 30 of them are making Czech-style beer but with a local twist.

For more information or to get your copy, do a search on amazon. com

NEST LOUNGE Tay Ho now has its very own Vietnamese-style bar and nightclub with last month’s opening of Nest Lounge.

Sat a stone’s throw from The Sheraton on the sixth, seventh and eighth floor, floor six is reserved for dancing, with DJs spinning mainly deep house.

Floor seven is the chillout

lounge while the top level is the cigar and shisha-smoking VIP area.

Besides boasting great views of the lake and beyond, Nest is one of the few late-night joints in the area.

Nest Lounge is at 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at facebook. com/Nest.Lounge.09XuanDieu

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overscene hanoi

Art for the People

Photos provided by Workroom Four After a successful exhibition at Workroom Four, the homegrown Hanoi Design Now moved to Ecopark

Motorbike Pop

Photos by Julie Vola Boy band Racket Riot and girl band were among the live acts to rock the rafters of CAMA ATK

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25 Years Later

Photos by Julie Vola Art Vietnam opened an exhibition of Catherine Karnow’s photographs showing the photographer’s work over the last quarter of a century

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

hanoi sound stuff

Photos by Trung Del The Van Ho Exhibition Centre played host to the third day of the annual experimental sound and arts festival Hanoi Sound Stuff. Day one was at Manzi Artspace, while day two hit Hanoi Creative City

On the Catwalk

Photos by Julie Vola Hanoi-based designer Ha Truong showed off her latest collection at the French Embassy

Rockin on the Sidewalk

Photos by Nick Ross Hanoi’s longest running weekly event, Friday Night on the Terrace, still draws the revellers into the Press Club

Insider Another Green World // Conserving Vietnam’s Coastline // These are a Few of Our Favourite Things // Making it a Reality // Vietnam’s Got Talent // glee club // The Vietnam Pastry Cup // Hanoi’s Best Pho // mystery diner hanoi // mystery diner hcmc // Fashion // Into the Mangrove Photo by julie Vola

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insider

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MANY FACES

HANOI

Another Green World Hanoi city dwellers who don’t have space for gardening can now enjoy a different way of creating their own green worlds, through a class in terrarium making.

Words by Hoa Le. Photos by Julie Vola

A

fter first arriving in the popular consciousness last year, the terrarium — a way of growing small plants and creating an ecosystem in a glass container — has quickly become popular and attracted a wide range of practioners. One of the pioneers of this movement in Vietnam is Hanoi-born Nguyen Tien Dung, a 25-yearold architect.

On a Sunday morning in April, we visited Green Oasis, a coffee and terrarium shop owned by Dung, located in a quiet alley near the Opera House. This cute little green space is decorated with various kinds of ferns, sphagnum moss and succulents grown in “pots” ranging from used bathtub fragments to pretty glass containers — all were planted by Dung.

This morning he holds a class for 12 participants, who are about to make their own terrariums for the first time. “Please come up and pick your plants, and glass vessels if you don’t have one,” says Dung, holding up a pretty terrarium that he made recently. He has a small tattoo of a tree on

his right wrist.

Every Sunday morning, participants in the weekly class are encouraged to bring their own re-used glass containers and be as creative as they want with their plant arrangements. They are provided with tools such as spoons, long tweezers and other materials — including several kinds of gravel, soil and even little pieces of wood for decoration.

Under Dung’s instruction, everyone starts the process in excitement.

From Eco-Architecture to Terrariums Growing up in the southernmost reaches of Hanoi, Hoang Mai District — where there were once many trees, lakes and other natural features — Dung has always been comfortable living in green space. When he was an architecture student at the National University of Civil Engineering, he became interested in eco-architecture, participating in some design competitions, with most of his work focused on green buildings.

One of his works gained him third prize in

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“As the plant absorbs light, it can photosynthesise, recycling nutrients and converting sunlight into all the energy needed for growth. Planted in 1960, and only watered once in 1972, the plant managed to stay healthy for 53 years” a competition — a tube house filled with trees in the city’s centre. His dream after graduation was to work for a Vietnamese eco-architecture firm such as Vo Trong Nghia Architects.

But life happened, and he ended up working for an interior design company that didn’t let him do what he had longed for. “There were many reasons that I couldn’t do green building as much there; the contractors didn’t want to do that because of the [high] expenses,” says Dung.

But that didn’t stop him from following his passion, and he finally decided to quit the job and set up his own green project.

A Green World in a Bottle The story of an amateur gardener named David Latimer, who kept his plants healthy inside a giant sealed glass jug for over 50 years made headlines in 2013. As the plant absorbs light, it can photosynthesise, recycling nutrients and converting sunlight into all the energy needed for growth.

Planted in 1960, and only watered once in 1972, the plant managed to stay healthy for 53 years. This was a perfect example of a self-sustaining ecosystem.

While the terrarium was created a long time ago — back in 1842 by English botanist Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward — Latimer’s story generated great curiosity and inspiration for many people, including Dung.

“When I read about his story, I became very excited,” says Dung. “I thought it would be amazing to be able to create a wonderful eco-system that doesn’t get affected by Hanoi’s pollution or weather.”

Promising Business In January last year, he made his first terrarium with different kinds of moss.

After that, he made more to give to friends as presents, uploading the photos to Facebook. His terrariums started to gain a reputation, and became so popular that people started ordering his products online.

“As Vietnam is a tropical country,” says Dung, “we have so many kinds of moss and plants that do well in mediummoisture environments, which are suitable for a terrarium.” His travels around the country at this time were motivated by his search for new kinds of plants. He mostly chose to ship native species from the areas

around Dalat and Sapa.

In September of last year, Dung decided that he needed a space to display his ‘artworks’, so he opened the Green Oasis coffee/terrarium shop, which has quickly become popular, and now has nearly 20,000 followers on its Facebook page. He says the business brings him revenue of several thousands of dollars a month, and he’s aiming to expand it.

“Many people have come to me to learn about terrariums and have gone on to open their own businesses,” he tells me. “But I don’t take it as a pressure. In fact, I’m happy to see that terrariums have become the favourite hobby of so many young people.”

As he fills up a spray bottle for one of the class’s participants, he adds with a smile, “I’ll always try to create new designs to diversify my products and meet the taste of my customers.”

Green Oasis is at Ngo 6 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, and on facebook.com/ CayViet. Terrarium workshops take place every Sunday at 9:30am and are free of charge. You will need to pay for the plants and the glass containers. Call or send a text to 0948 588819 to register in advance

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insider INSIDER

VIETNAM

Conserving Vietnam’s Coastline As Vietnam’s rich coastline gets carved up into marketable slices, Katie Jacobs talks with some brave souls fighting an uphill battle

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S

ilence. The sound of my breathing, puffed from walking uphill, feels obtrusive. A soft wind picks up, as does the faint sound of lapping water on the beach below. A flock of birds squawk as they ascend from the canopy and are gone. Thatched roofs and a small patch of rice paddies, just visible amongst the Casuarina trees and coconut palms, are the only signs of the luxury Bai Cham Hideaway Resort that lies below. I feel as though I have found the last undisturbed beach in Vietnam.

Southeast Asia is endowed with a rich network of marine and coastal ecosystems, brimming with biodiversity. With over 3,000km of coastline and numerous islands, Vietnam plays a critical role in the health and productivity of the region.

Coastal features, such as sandy beaches and bays, mangrove forests, seagrass beds, coral reefs, mudflats and islands provide

vital habitat and breeding grounds for a plethora of coastal and marine species.

Not only rich in environmental value, Vietnam’s coast is high in economic potential. With abundant natural resources, the coastal areas are an important contributor towards the country’s GDP. They also support the daily livelihoods of millions. Environmental pressures — such as overfishing, unsustainable resource management, pollution and the destruction of the natural coastal environment — not only threaten ecosystems, but also risk damaging the local and national economies.

Equating Economy with Ecology Balancing coastal environmental issues with economic priorities is by no means an issue unique to Vietnam. According to the 2012 international study Valuing the Oceans led by the Stockholm Environment

Institute, “Ocean services contribute in very tangible and substantial ways to local livelihoods, as well as national economies and foreign exchange receipts, government tax revenues and employment.” Yet the trillions of US dollars generated globally each year by ocean services are often overlooked, in favour of unsustainable development and alternative conservation priorities.

Despite their ecological importance, only 2 percent of the world’s oceans are designated under Marine Protected Areas (MPAs), much less than the 15 percent of protected terrestrial land.

This discrepancy between terrestrial and marine conservation is even more acute in coastal countries, such as Vietnam (one of the world’s largest seafood exporters), where the economy relies upon a healthy coastal and marine environment. Despite this, funding and knowledge of how to

Photo by Francis Roux / Word Vietnam

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Photo provided by UICN

“This park is important for the community,” says Dang, director of Action for the City in Hoi An. “It shows that we can respect nature, instead of cutting trees and putting in resort-like plants and grass” tackle marine-based issues are severely lacking.

“I try to stay optimistic for the future of Vietnam’s coastal and marine environment,” says Bui Thi Thu Hien, Marine and Coastal Program Coordinator for the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) in Vietnam. “But sometimes I feel as though we are floating alone in the middle of the ocean — that our efforts are too small in comparison to what is happening in Vietnam’s coastal and marine environment.”

Marine Protected Areas IUCN — the world’s largest conservation organisation, famous for its endangered species ‘Red List’ and management of natural World Heritage Sites (such as Halong Bay) — defines an MPA as “an area of intertidal or subtidal terrain, together with its overlying water and associated flora, fauna, historical and cultural features, which has been reserved by law or other effective means to protect part or all of the enclosed environment”.

Or, put more simply, a pocket of ocean protected to allow biodiversity to flourish.

In heavily fished countries, such as Vietnam, MPAs are critical to ecosystem

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rehabilitation and ensuring healthy fish stocks.

In 2002, the Vietnamese government proposed a network of 15 MPAs to be launched by 2015. By 2010, Vietnam had exceeded its goal, with 16 MPAs legally established. But, despite this success, clear legislation for MPA management is still lacking. Moreover, representatives from a national MPA conference held in October 2014 in Hanoi reported that only six MPAs maintained an official management presence. Sponsored by the Asia-wide initiative Mangroves for the Future, and attended by Ministry representatives and coastal provincial leaders, the conference identified challenges facing the management and expansion of MPAs. Inconsistent policy, inadequate resources and a lack of leadership designation were problems highlighted by MPA managers.

“Knowledge of marine conservation is definitely lacking,” says IUCN Program Coordinator Hien. “But I was disappointed to hear that this is not what the MPA leaders are complaining about — their incentives are much more focused on increasing power and economic financing, not awareness.”

Despite these setbacks, conferences and discussions such as this are critical to

strengthening Vietnam’s MPA network.

The presence of over 100 participants from government ministries, departments and provinces throughout Vietnam clearly shows a desire to address these issues.

Coastal Buffers MPAs alone will not save Vietnam’s coastal and marine environment. According to scientific consultant and conservation specialist Julia Shaw, threats come from a multitude of sources, such as wide-ranging pollution, unnatural landscape change and over-fishing.

Shaw initially moved to Vietnam to assist with the establishment of the NGO Wildlife at Risk. After working on an awareness-raising video about declining fish stocks in the Hon Mun MPA, Shaw decided to shift her focus to marine conservation and building alternative livelihoods for fishermen. “I quickly realised how relatively little marine research and conservation was evident in Vietnam and how desperately it is needed,” she says.

Power for the People Local communities can pose both a challenge and an asset to the success of coastal and marine conservation. While

Photo by Francis Roux / Word Vietnam

“Despite their ecological importance, only 2 percent of the world’s oceans are designated under Marine Protected Areas, much less than the 15 percent of protected terrestrial land” local impacts — such as pollution from villages and resource exploitation — can exacerbate environmental degradation, community support for conservation is invaluable. “They are the eyes and ears of the MPA,” says Hien.

The Cu Lao Cham Marine Park, situated off the Quang Nam coastline, is an example of where local communities and government authorities have both recognised the value — and vulnerability — of an area heavily reliant on marine resources.

“There are 3,000 people living in the Cu Lao Cham MPA, they must be involved,” says Chu Manh Trinh, from the Cu Lao Cham MPA Authority. “Successful management of the MPA relies upon the participation of the community. Their involvement not only helps in protecting the ecosystem but it also diversifies their livelihoods and strengthens community resilience to natural disaster and climate change.”

Dragonfly Park On a recent visit to Hoi An in Quang Nam Province, I took an early-morning bike ride to a new nature park along the Cua Dai coastline. Watching waves crash against cement beachfront barriers, I was surprised at how dramatically the beach had eroded

in the year since my last visit. Ironically, in a situation where the economy is relying upon the natural environment, resort developers are both aggravator and victim.

Working to tackle this issue is the new Dragonfly Park, a community and local NGO-led project that aims to change the pattern of unnatural development along the coastline. The project has taken a beachfront plot of land that would otherwise have been developed into a resort and turned it into a coastal park and education centre for the local community.

“Keeping the memory of the original landscape is very important,” explains Dang, director of Action for the City in Hoi An. She argues that unless parents can show their children what the natural land is supposed to look like, it will be impossible for future generations to protect the environment.”

By planting native Casuarina trees and keeping development to a minimum (the only permanent building is a self-sustaining restroom that collects rainwater), the park respects the natural environment rather than trying to manipulate it.

“This park is important for the community,” says Dang. “It creates space for children to play and adults to rest and

enjoy nature. It also shows that we can respect nature, instead of cutting trees and putting in resort-like plants and grass.”

“MPAs are the key to protecting Vietnam’s coastline, not just for environmental reasons but for the health and security of people,” says Hien. “But effective legal zoning and the inclusion of local communities are critical in making a marked difference in environmental quality.”

Back at Bai Tram, I make my way down the hill and towards the beach. At the resort entrance, I pause to study a large display sign with a topographical map, outlining future plans for the resort. The ‘natural scenic location’ on which the sign is located is surrounded by residential lots that include spas, beach clubs, speciality restaurants and exclusive estates ringing the now forested hillsides.

Economy and ecology once again seem at unnecessary loggerheads, and I sigh as I remember Hien’s comment comparing marine conservation to “floating in the middle of the ocean”.

Remaining optimistic, I can only hope that this planned development follows a sustainable model with community inclusion. In the meantime, I think it’s time for another swim.

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cover story

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T

hink of the worst person you know. Picture her stupid, punchable face. Feel her shrill voice raking your eardrums. See her pressing the “close” button as you race towards the elevator.

Now imagine her eating a mint chocolate chip ice cream cone.

She is probably smiling — a stupid, punchable smile to be sure, but technically a smile nevertheless. She might be making small wet gurgles of happiness — annoying, but undeniably joyful. Somehow, despite her bridge-trollian nature, she becomes sympathetic — almost human, if you’re feeling particularly generous.

It’s hard to hate someone who’s eating.

Food brings us together because it is one of the few universal pleasures. Everybody likes food in some form or another, even people from Canada, so long as it is covered in cheese and maple syrup. But this is not Canada — this is a different socialist republic: Vietnam.

What do the people here like to eat?

Practically everything, as it turns out. There is no fish we will not pluck from the sea, no tuber we will not rip from the soil, no seed we will not grind into dust in our rapacious hunt for our next feeding. We will steal the unborn children of defenseless birds and fry them in pans. We will call this “breakfast”.

In Vietnam there are many ways to eat the diversity of nature. The number of choices can be overwhelming at times. Word cares about its readers so much that it wants to help you narrow the options to a manageable number.

Each of the following dishes holds a special place in somebody’s heart, or stomach. These are foods that excite passions — foods that inspire entire magazine snippets. The pages to come are full of stories about those foods, about why we love them, about why they are special.

Bon appétit.

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Ed's Pick M I Q UANG M Y S ON @ 38 Dinh

Tien Hoang, Q1, HCMC — miquangmyson. com.vn

F OR T HOSE IN H ANOI : Try Q UAN M I Q UANG @ 2C Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem

I

usually go for mi quang on days like tomorrow is shaping up to be — hungover. I usually wake up and play with the computer for an hour or two, hold my head for another 10 minutes, then head to my favourite specialist. It just so happens that they’re right across the street, the perfect distance for me to travel in this delicate state.

The shop in question — Mi Quang My Son, the Da Kao branch of a five-store chain — doctors their noodles in a deeper way than I’ve yet seen. It has a vaguely comforting ‘mom’s chicken soup’ thing about it. The turmeric is strong in this one.

Mi quang has a complexity about it. The eating is a sensory experience: the warmth on your face, the tingly yet wholesome smell — then the prickle of lime-accented spice, the aftertaste of fatty, slightly medicinal broth. It’s a tour de force.

Some mi quang variations don’t stress the turmeric.

Even the fairly savoury scoops in The Mi Quang Song which went viral on YouTube last year don’t quite make the cut (and what’s that yellow egg doing in there?). To be honest, I’m not crazy about the Danang version — even though it’s a ways closer to Quang Nam Province, where the dish originally came from.

The Buon Ma Thuot version, on the other hand, opened my eyes to other possibilities. It was light on the turmeric-y broth, but heavy on the noodles, which were more cylindrical than flat. Doused in chilli, hiding meats

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in every crevice, this wasn’t the dish I was expecting.

Nor was I expecting the entire restaurant family to congregate on the two metal stools across the table from me, smiling expectantly at my poised chopsticks, pulling rank when it looked like I was going to ignore the sesame cracker that’s customarily added. I added the sesame cracker, in the same way I usually add the greens — half now, half later. One wedge of lime, and of course the whole chilli-soy mixture.

We bonded over the Lionel Messi poster on the wall, and soon the man got on his cellphone and invited another spectator to watch me eat — a round-faced girl with groceries hanging from her bike hook. She sat there smiling, as her presumptive sister cradled a baby, and the man raised his eyebrows in suggestive ways.

As the man kept saying “hotel” and winking archly, I started to appreciate all the adventures these unpredictable noodles have taken me on. And still I ate, ate to my heart’s content. — Ed Weinberg

Hoa's Pick

T

he silky white and translucent rice flour sheet is lifted off of a steamer filled with boiling water by a long and flexible piece of bamboo, bringing with it a smoggy steam. Mrs. Coi’s movements are swift and professional as she ladles another layer of liquid onto the steamer, spreads it equally on the covering cloth to prepare for another sheet, then fills the cooked one with stuffing.

She rolls the sheet into a perfect shape, brushes a thin layer of liquid fat on top, and finishes the process by adding some freshly fried shallots — she looks just like a skillful street artist in her little shop in an alley across from Mo Market. Her stall is simple with only one long wooden bench, a table and a few wooden stools because she needs to make space for the alley’s residents to pass by.

At one time, her stall had only enough space for five or six customers. But Mrs. Coi was once well-known among everyone who lived on Minh Khai Street. She was a skinny woman, in her 60s, with one leg always perched on her little wooden stool when she was making banh cuon for her customers. The rice flour sheet was made extremely thin — which is the key to the dish and requires skillful attention — the stuffing was a mix of minced pork, wood-ear mushrooms and onion, the dipping source just right, the home-made shallots always fresh and crunchy.

Eating Mrs. Coi’s banh cuon is a memory that I’ll never forget. It has been some time now since Mrs. Coi passed

B ANH C UON H ANG G A @ 14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

F OR T HOSE IN S AIGON : Aaah,

banh cuon down south isn’t quite the same. For Hanoians the fish sauce is just that little bit too sweet. However,

away, but when talking about my favourite banh cuon, hers always comes to mind.

These days, when I go for banh cuon on the weekend, I still prefer little stalls where the food is made on the spot, hot and steamy. In most alleys in Hanoi, you can find such places. But if you’re looking for a more established option, try banh cuon at Banh Cuon Hang Ga (14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi), Banh Cuon Ba Hoanh (66 To Hien Thanh, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi) or the less busy Banh Cuon Phuong (68 Hang Cot, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi). — Hoa Le

B ANH C UON H AI N AM @ 11A Cao Thang, Q3) is a winner. They’ve been going for three or four decades now, and their offering is the closest you’ll get to banh cuon from Hanoi

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Jon's Pick B ANH X EO 46A

@ 46 Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, HCMC

F OR T HOSE IN H ANOI :

TripAdvisor recommends, erm, Q UAN A N N GON (18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem). But we think B ANH X EO Z ON @ 25 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem does it better

I

can’t remember exactly when my relationship with this morsel of greasy goodness started. I may have flirted with its rich pancakey curves on my very first visit. Possibly I’ve forgotten that a more food-savvy mutual friend introduced us ages ago, or perhaps I simply sat down at the busiest street quan I could find, smiled ridiculously at everyone involved, and gestured my way into eating what everyone else was eating.

Whatever our history, it’s been a happy one, because this classic dish — which literally translates to ‘sizzling cake’ — has never let me down. It is what I call comfort food of the highest order, a little too naughty to eat every day, but when the mood strikes there’s no better food than this to turn my ‘belly frown’ upside down.

Made famous around the globe by Anthony Bourdain (and, since then, everyone with a camera and access to the internet) — the banh xeo is a pan-fried and folded savoury pancake, with an infusion of pork oil and coconut juice into the rice flour batter to give it that tropical edge. Cooked by grandmothers everywhere, it’s like a warm hug filled with pork, shrimp, saffron and bean sprouts. It’s always served with a healthy side of fresh lettuce, Thai basil and mint leaf for wrapping, an essential amount of fish sauce for dipping and of course, chilli and limes. Sometimes it even comes with rice paper to make it easier to wrap. With so much colour and texture on offer, it’s the kind of feast for the senses that

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has foodies waxing lyrical and using cheap platitudes like, erm…’feast for the senses’.

This all makes it a highly ‘sought after by tourists’ kinda deal, and any search of TripAdvisor brings up one of the most famous restaurants in the country — Banh Xeo 46A — the place where I eat mine, and the originator of the Saigon version of the dish. When I was there recently I met Linda and Keith from Christchurch, New Zealand. They’d travelled up and down the country trying the many variations of this dish — yes there is a healthy debate going on — but having arrived here, were happy to declare a winner.

“The banh xeo is like the country itself,” proclaimed Keith, “noisy, a little challenging, but multi-layered and rewarding — you just have to dig in and get your hands dirty.” — Jon Aspin

W

hen I was a little girl I ate my first bowl of bun rieu cua. There was something about this dish, with its crabmeat, blood pudding, morning glory, spice and tomato-flavoured broth that I just loved. So obsessed was I by this noodle soup that I used to dream of having my own bun rieu stand when I was an adult.

My dream came true when I was 19. Together with my mother we decided to set up a noodle soup stand in our front garden. At the time we were living in Vung Tau and, of course, the dish we decided to sell was bun rieu.

I helped my mum cook and sell the soup. Because our house was close to the central market in Vung Tau and in a busy part of town, it was a good business.

Since we opened at 6am and closed at 9am, it didn’t affect my studies — my lessons at the local tourism school were in the afternoon.

When I came home from school every day, I had to prepare things for the next morning’s show — particularly the broth. And every morning after our stand was closed, I had to go to the market to buy the ingredients for the next batch of soup. Mornings and early evenings were the busiest time of my day.

A few years ago, my husband and I went on a business trip to Hanoi and by chance stopped at a streetside bun rieu place on the corner of Hai Ba Trung and Quang Trung. On small plastic stools that doubled

Bao's Pick B UN R IEU C UA

as both seats and tables, I took one spoonful of the broth and I was entranced.

Now, every time I fly up to Hanoi I frequent this little joint. The street food in the capital is fantastic, but this little nameless, makeshift place remains my favourite.

And I sometimes still cook bun rieu at home, but it’s no longer to sell to the public. These days I serve it only to my friends and family. — Duong Vy Bao

@ cnr. Quang Trung and Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi.

The bun rieu cua in Saigon is not as good as it is in Hanoi, but the place on the street in front of Nghia Beauty, 20 Phan Boi Chau, Q1 is probably the best

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Simon's Pick N HA H ANG N GON @ 160 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC

F OR T HOSE IN H ANOI : Try U T T HUY just over

the river @ 227 Ngoc Lam, Long Bien

“W

e need to go back,” I said to my girlfriend. We were stretched out on a grassy bank beside the East River eating lunch, the Manhattan skyline hanging like a mirage on the opposite shore. It was the summer of 2013 and a record-breaking heatwave had turned New York City into a furnace.

“Back where?” she said.

I held a half-eaten goi cuon aloft and my point was made.

Prior to that day, with decent AC, Netflix on-demand, and a cracking pizzeria nearby, the basement apartment we were renting in Brooklyn had become our own little hideout, away from the heat and away from the world.

We’d just finished a 12-month, round-the-world trip and staying at home had never felt so good. But it took one Sunday afternoon visit to an antiques market in Williamsburg to drag us back to reality… and back to Vietnam.

The Brooklyn Flea is home to dozens of seriously good international food vendors. That day, the choice was overwhelming. But then I saw it. Goi cuon. On what looked to be his mum’s kitchen table set out beneath a cheap plastic gazebo, a Viet Kieu guy was frantically wrapping roll after roll at the head of a very long line of people. Roaring through a stack of rice paper pancakes, he skilfully arranged the ingredients; tender slices of slow cooked pork, fresh prawns, garlic chives, rice

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vermicelli and plenty of leafage.

With a scoop of homemade peanut sauce, one bite was all it took to transport us back to our last night in Saigon.

We’d had one final blowout feast at Nha Hang Ngon on Pasteur Street. The oil lamps were flickering, the Saigon Special was flowing and we were saying goodbye to what would become our favourite country of the trip.

It was the spark we needed. Less than a year later, we were living in Vietnam. — Simon Stanley

D

o you know what it’s like when you’ve discovered something no-one else knows about, and you want to be its champion but you don’t exactly know how? Say it’s a food (as it is in this case). You take friends to go eat at restaurants that serve it, watch their faces as they take that first bite, make a show of enjoying it yourself, dream about it. If you’re a food writer, you write about it, and sneak in little references to its greatness in unrelated articles. Okay, I can’t hold out any longer — we’re talking about banh tam bi, and my unrelenting obsession with the Mekong-originated dish for the last 18 months.

It started out innocently enough. Chief Editor Nick had been working on our last street food issue (November 2013), and in the course of doing so discovered the dish in question. Back then it was his secret, and when three of our Hanoi colleagues came down to Saigon that same month he decided to share it.

He took us to one of the two eponymously named joints in the city, and we slurped down the silkwormlooking noodles in an orgy of discovery (the name banh tam means ‘silkworm noodle’). It seemed like we’d stumbled onto one of the rare things in cuisine — a food so extraordinarily unique that it couldn’t be from anywhere else, that it could define a region. In the shredded pork skin cuddled next to thick tapioca noodles swimming in sweet coconut milk, shreds of

Ed's Pick B ANH T AM B I T O C HAU @ 271 Nguyen Trai, Q1, HCMC

carrot nudging against the two, it seemed we’d found the taste of the Mekong.

In the time since, I’ve returned often, and not usually solo. And I’ve kept these addictive noodles in mind.

In California this summer, I took an old schoolmate to the top-rated Vietnamese resto in San Jose, called Vung Tau. When I saw banh tam bi on the menu, I jumped on it. Nevermind that it was the best banh tam bi I’ve yet had, what I really appreciated about it was the expression on Greg’s face — I’d shown him something he’d never known about, made him really understand one small part of my life. That damn noodle paid me back for all the faith I’d shown in its deliciousness.

One of these days, when banh tam bi is even better known than that other ‘banh’, just remember that you always knew it was going to be a star. Oh banh tam bi, I would love you even if you weren’t crazy good. — Ed Weinberg

IF

YOU ’ RE

US: V UNG T AU R ESTAURANT IN THE

@ 535 E Santa Clara St, San Jose, CA 95112 — vungtaurestaurant.com

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Nick's Pick B ANH D A T RON

(6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi). Nowhere in Saigon seems to sell this dish yet. So for all those southerners out there, you’ll just have to wait

W

hen I first came to Vietnam I tried any new street dish I could get my chopsticks into. But as time has worn on, I’ve become a food eater of habit. I rarely try anything new.

Recently I felt it was time for a change. When I’m in Hanoi, on the street I only ever seem to eat a few dishes, usually with the word pho or bun in their name. But even that’s no longer a given. I’ve overdosed so much on bun cha — one of northern Vietnam’s best-known dishes — that the rice noodle and barbecued pork staple has slipped off my ever-decreasing list of favourites.

The dish I decided to use to break my chains was banh da tron. With the broth served on the side together with green kumquat (tac xanh) and bun cha-style fresh herbs, the flat brown-coloured noodles known as banh da come in many forms. This version — the ‘dry’ type — is served up with tofu, fried fish, peanuts, cha ca, what looks like rau muong (morning glory), bean sprouts, fresh herbs, peanuts and pickled cucumber.

But it took a conversation with one of our photographers, Trung, to make this happen.

“Where do you live?” he asked over a cocktail.

I explained.

“Oh,” he said, his eyes lighting up with joy. “There’s an amazing place selling banh da tron just right by where you live. Every time I’m in West Lake I go there.”

So one morning, using the excuse of having breakfast

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with one of my colleagues, I gave it a try.

Vietnamese cuisine is as much about texture as it is about matching contrasting flavours. On the texture front banh da tron runs the full spectrum. From the softness of the noodles, tofu and fish cake through to the different types of crunch provided by the morning glory, the peanuts, the fried fish and the cucumber, there is a little bit of everything in this dish.

As for taste. I’ve now been back to the same joint three times. Banh da tron is not the kind of dish I would eat every day — it’s too rich and wholesome for that. But it has already made it to the top of my eat-on-the-street list.

— Nick Ross

T

his was the first Vietnamese dish I ever ate. I still remember the fear as we walked down the street from our hostel in Hanoi towards the little pink dot drawn on a photocopied map given to us by the hostel’s manager. “You will love it!” she’d said.

“What is it?” I asked.

“Just go! You see!”

I’m not a fussy eater, but when you’re heading to a place that has no menus, serves only one thing, and you have no idea what that ‘thing’ is — and you’ve only been in that country for a matter of hours — you might feel some apprehension.

The tiny shopfront in the Old Quarter would have been easy to miss were it not for the beautiful smell of the pork being grilled over crackling coals outside.

We hesitantly sat at a table, wide-eyed and as green as the mountain of leaves that was placed before us. The owner was a super friendly lady who seemed to sense our anxiety. I doubt we were the first tourists the hostel had sent her way. She delivered each element of the meal with a huge grin. Bowls of flavour-packed broth and pickled vegetables, a generous portion of vermicelli noodles, and then the chargrilled pork belly and ground pork patties. We had no idea where to begin. She reappeared beside us yielding a giant pair of scissors and plunged them into our noodles, snipping the mound into manageable clumps. With chopsticks she demonstrated

Simon's Pick N EM C UA B E

@ 59 Hang Ma, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

F OR T HOSE IN S AIGON : B UN C HA H A N OI @ 26/1A Le

Thanh Ton, Q1 or

B UN C HA A NH H ONG @ 140B

Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 the bun cha ritual. “This, then this, then that,” she mimed. “Then you eat.”

It quickly became my favourite Vietnamese dish. It still is. The deceptive simplicity of it all, the smoky meat, the aromatic herbs and leaves, the refreshing noodles.

Above all, I think the pickled green papaya is the secret of bun cha. It’s such a tiny addition but it’s just not right without it. — Simon Stanley

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Vy's Picks O C D AO (Alley

212B Nguyen Trai, Q1, HCMC),

O C Q UANG A NH (189 To

Hien Thanh, Q10, HCMC) or O C O ANH (534 Vinh Khanh, Q4, HCMC)

I am obsessed with seafood, especially the smaller types that take a lot of time to eat. It’s a strangely addictive feeling, like eating seeds — you already know how they’ll taste from the previous one, but you can’t stop eating them.

Where I live in Saigon, it seems others share my obsession. There is every kind of shrimp, crab, snail, clam, scallop, squid and octopus on offer, from every region of Vietnam. Seafood is Saigon’s most popular street food, scattered over 24 districts, offering different styles and prices.

And curiously, others seem even more passionate about seafood than I am. When I was in Hoi An last month, I heard cries of “Ai le oc khong?” — does anyone want snails? — coming from street vendors. Their bicycles were carrying coolers filled with millions of button-shaped snails (oc ruoc) cooked with chilli and lemongrass, and I saw quite a few people buying from them. Curious, I paid VND10,000 for a small plastic bag, with some spiky branches used for taking the flesh out. I gave up after more than 45 minutes — leaving two-thirds behind.

There was a time I thought everyone shared my obsession. Going to Australia a couple years ago, I thought there would be even more seafood there — their coastline is over 11 times longer than Vietnam’s. But I realised how wrong I was when a housemate told me that people there don’t even eat octopus.

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Back in Vietnam, the seafood varieties are uncountable. And to us, all of them are edible and can be cooked in many different styles, from stir-fried with butter to grilled with chilli and salt, from steamed with lemongrass to grilled with cheese. Combined with different sauces such as muoi tieu chanh (salt, pepper and lime), nuoc mam chua ngot (sweet and sour fish sauce) and tuong ot xanh (green chilli sauce), they make for a combined flavour and texture only existing in heaven. — Vu Ha Kim Vy

B

efore the Doi Moi era, when it was hard to get proper hair shampoo, my mother used to boil pomelo leaves to wash the hair of my sister and I. We so loved it, the scent lasted a long time and it also made our hair soft and smooth. We were even more surprised when she showed us what else could be made from pomelo — che buoi.

After peeling off the green skin — boiled for washing hair — my mom sliced the white layer covering the fruit into many small pieces. She mixed them with two teaspoons of salt and rinsed them out, then squeezed them to dry them out. She ground up some alum — a powder used for cooking — mixed it with water and poured it into a pot. When the water reached its boiling point, the white pieces were put into the pot for a short time, taken out again and put into an ice bowl to make them crunchy and more delicious. Together with mung beans, these sliced crunchy pieces were cooked to make the beautiful che buoi. A small spoonful of coconut milk made the dessert even more beautiful.

I had a chance to flashback to my mom’s che buoi at a small street place. The owner is so nice and kind, and her che buoi is traditional, without any additives. The place opens from 10am to 6pm, and her main customers are desk-workers and students. While the che buoi is so wonderful and nice-smelling, the price is reasonable, and she’s always busy.

Giang's Pick 5 Duc Vong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

F OR THOSE IN S AIGON : You

Each bowl she makes for customers is a masterpiece.

When I had my first spoonful, the combination of pomelo and mung bean melted in my throat, leaving a light sweetness on my lips.

I have been to many places in Vietnam and tried many dishes, and che buoi is still my favourite dessert. — Chau Giang

may not be able to get che buoi, but you can certainly find a number of joints serving up che.

Besides B EN T HANH M ARKET , a couple of the better joints can be found at 111 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 and 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Binh Thanh

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Francis's Pick C OM T AM T U Q UY @ Junction

of Hai Ba Trung and Nguyen Huu Cau, Q1, HCMC (Tan Dinh Market)

F OR T HOSE IN H ANOI : C OM T AM S AI G ON N AM P HUONG @ 102E6 Bach Khoa, Hai Ba Trung

W

hat street food dish can you get in Saigon at any time of the day, anywhere in the city; for breakfast, lunch or dinner? It can only be com tam. If you’re lazy and a nightcrawler like me, you’ll appreciate this. Sure, there are plenty of other kinds of exotic and interesting dishes around, but the most delicious and easiest to get is my pick.

Com tam literally means ‘broken rice’. Small grains of white rice like couscous wait steamy-hot on the roadside, paired with countless toppings of your choice. From the classically flavourful juicy pork ribs and egg meatloaf (kind of like a frittata), to newer variations like crab cake, fish cake, fried chicken and caramelised pork, they are all there to wash away your hunger and satisfy your taste buds. The most typical combination is definitely suon bi cha, pork ribs, pork skin and the egg meatloaf. It’s a Saigon classic.

Eating rice for breakfast may not be a common thing for most people, but for Saigonese like me, it is. I remember walking to school in the early morning with my grandma, and she would take me to a com tam place to eat before my classes. Freshly cooked, steamy-hot rice, juicy pork ribs coated with honey marinara sauce on the grill — everyone passing felt the pull of those com tam stalls.

When I grew up I got more familiar with the western diet — low carbs and ‘healthy’ eating. White rice is not in

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the ‘healthy’ list of course, “It makes you fat,” they say.

So I stopped eating rice for a while.

And I didn’t start again until working all-night shifts at a restaurant, finishing at 2 or 3 in the morning, tired and starving. The only accessible food at that time was com tam. After a long night I found it was the best thing, our only option was our best option. I realised that all these nutritional facts and calories don’t matter, it’s how the food makes you feel inside that is the most important. And com tam makes me feel like a true Saigonese. — Francis Xavier

W

hen I first arrived in Hanoi, I didn’t know where or what to eat, so I would just follow my friends and order just like them. I don’t remember the first time I had com rang dua bo, but it probably wasn’t difficult to discover.

It’s not one of the most remarkable dishes in Vietnam.

You never hear anyone rave about the wonderful com rang dua bo they have eaten, nor trade the addresses of their favourite places to eat it at. Somehow any kind of noodle soup will overshadow com rang dua bo. I don’t know if it’s linked to my first drunken years in Vietnam (for me, it’s the perfect amount of rice to suck up all the alcohol I drink in one night), my intolerance to MSG or just because I like rice more than soup, but I will always prefer com rang dua bo over of a bowl of pho.

It is always great to see the cook prepare the com rang dua bo — each ingredient is fried separately, and if the cook is athletic you can see them jumping up and down with the wok. I usually have it already all mixed on one plate, but you can have it served separately — rice in one plate, the dua (pickled cabbage) and beef on another, and make your own mix.

It’s a simple dish, but if the place you go to is really good then you can taste how the beef has been marinated in ginger and fried with vegetables, which adds amazing flavour. I personally always add lots of lime juice and garlic vinegar, but that’s just me.

Julie's Pick KCC (Kien Can

Cook) @ 57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da, Hanoi

F OR T HOSE IN S AIGON : This is

You can order it everywhere as most places will make it the same way. This lets me have my favourite dish anywhere, and know it will taste good even if I don’t know the particular recipe. — Julie Vola

a true northern dish. So, yes, you can get it down south but it’s not the same.

The Saigonese version is com chien, but beyond a wok, rice and oil, don’t expect any similarities

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Vy's Pick N HA H ANG N GON @ 160 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC)

F OR T HOSE IN H ANOI : Naaah, wait till you get down south for this one.

W

hen I was 14, I had my first bun mam, cooked by my eldest sister-in-law. As my sister-in-law is a foodie from Ben Tre — where bun mam landed after emigrating from Cambodia — that bun mam was unimaginably tasty.

As her life became busier, the bun mam at Nha Hang Ngon became my bun mam source while I attended university. Twice a week for four years, Ngon played host to my friends and I — and bun mam was my usual choice.

Smelling of mam ca (fermented fish paste) — which turns off some people, though here it provides a key element in the deep-rounded flavour — the bowl always attracts me from a distance.

Depending on the restaurant and the style, the bowl has different ingredients. But it usually contains vermicelli noodles, eggplant, shrimp, squid, fried pork cubes and sliced fish, accompanied by heaps of sprouts, knotgrass, mint and chilli. These all give it a quirky combination of salty, sweet, sour, tangy, smelly and pungent flavours.

While not a daily mainstay, bun mam is still my favourite noodle soup. Simply, I just love it. — Vu Ha Kim Vy

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I

lived in Vung Tau, the seaside oil and holiday town close to Saigon, for way too long. Yet in the four or so years I called this peninsula city my home, I never once tried banh khot, the only dish that can truly be credited with being invented there. That all changed when I moved to Saigon.

For a long period I used to take the hydrofoil almost daily between Vung Tau and Ho Chi Minh City, and I remember seeing an eatery spring up close to the port at the end of Ham Nghi called Co Ba Vung Tau. Then close

by Co Hai Vung Tau opened shop. Both specialised in banh khot, and my interest was piqued. Quickly the rivals opened additional branches around Saigon.

It was only on a weekend trip back to my former home that I finally tried this dish. I remember it well. We went to the joint that invented banh khot — Banh Khot Goc Vu Sua — sat on plastic stools at the low, chrome-topped tables, ordered two plates of the small, crispy pancakes, then three, then four, then five. When we got up to leave we were both stuffed and satisfied. I remember the word “Wow!” crossing my lips more than once.

I could talk for hours about why I love this dish.

Maybe it’s the crunch of the lettuce leaf (or mustard leaf) used to wrap up the pancake. Maybe it’s the small, friedup rice flour cake itself with its topping of both fresh and dried shrimp. Or maybe it’s how the pickled papaya and carrot strips create a perfect taste balance with the sweetness and chilli spice of the fish sauce.

Nick's Pick Q UAN B ANH K HOT G OC V U S UA (14

Nguyen Truong To, Vung Tau);

B ANH K HOT C O B A V UNG T AU

But the key for me are three things, three things which I believe are central to much of southern Vietnamese cuisine. First is that — despite the banh khot being fried — with the salad and fresh herbs thrown in this is a healthy dish. Add to this the roll-it-yourself nature of the dish — there is something very satisfying about preparing your own food.

But most important is how good these pancakes are to share, to eat together in a big group. That’s the essence of Vietnamese cuisine — dining family-style with all the food placed in the centre of the table. Few individual dishes meet this dining concept as well as banh khot. — Nick Ross

(102 Cao Thang, Q3, HCMC); B EN N INH K IEU (78 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi)

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Huyen's Pick You can find delicious bo bia ngot sold by many vendors along Thanh Nien Street, Tay Ho, Hanoi

F

or those who attended school in the 1980s like myself, things were far different. Instead of sitting at KFC, Burger King or a polished-glass window café, our ritual was gathering at the school gates and buying cheap snacks.

Like many other girls, bo bia ngot was my favourite.

Now it’s making a comeback. A few years ago, I was happy to see peddlers starting to sell bo bia ngot on Hanoi’s Thanh Nien Street. Nowadays, a lot of vendors stand on the streetside with a white box on their bike selling this old-time student snack.

I love buying bo bia ngot from a man who often stands near the restaurant Banh Tom Ho Tay (on Thanh Nien Street). He seems to be the only male peddler selling it on the street. “We are all living in the same village,” he told me. “Leaving our hometown, we share slum-dog apartments near Hanoi and sell this every day. I stand here from morning until 11pm at night.”

The first time I stopped my bike, I was impressed by this man’s appearance. He has a very gentle smile. He makes me think of poor labourers in the countryside.

Every time I come back, I notice happiness and a smile in his eyes. I keep coming back.

It’s not a big deal when I buy one bo bia ngot (they’re VND5,000 each), but this man’s smiles make me feel happy about life. Every week, I give myself one moment of buying bo bia ngot, eating the wrapper in bites, enjoying the sweet taste of old times. I chat with the bo

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bia seller, enjoying the lake view along with the others mingling on the bustling street. — Huyen Tran

T

o be honest, when I first tried bu bo Hue it was not a pleasant experience. Maybe it was the place, it could have been the cook, perhaps it wasn’t fresh. For a very long time after, I refused to touch the stuff.

But that was seven years ago. Several visits to Vietnam have come and gone and the soup I once considered rank is now my go-to meal, especially for breakfast.

There’s a magic that occurs when you get the seasonings just right. The slightly oily broth envelops all these spices and the lime virtually glues itself to all the ingredients in the bowl. I tend to go heavy on the chilli oil, so the flavour overwhelms me.

I like these noodles much more than pho noodles.

They are more substantial and have a better texture to my mind. They remind me of the noodles my mom used to put in chicken noodle soup when I was under the weather.

The choice of vegetables can change the flavour yet again. The shredded greens, the leafy bits and the best part of all, the stringy goodness of the banana flower slowly cooks in the broth and adds an extra dimension to the flavour. Patiently I wait as the veggies sop up the broth. Finally, it’s time to dig in!

Vietnamese food has the ability to change your palate. I used to miss food back home. But, because of

Glen's Picks N AM G IAO @ 189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1, HCMC and the place by the pagoda on the corner of Duong So. 41 and Quoc Huong, Q2, HCMC F OR T HOSE IN H ANOI : Q UAN B UN B O H UE @ 16B Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem, and

Q UAN B UN B O H UE @ 38C, Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung

my love of bun bo Hue and many other dishes, I rarely give ‘home food’ a second thought. I could literally eat bun bo Hue three times a day. — Glen Riley

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David's Pick B UN B O N AM B O @ 67 Hang

Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

F OR T HOSE IN S AIGON : It’s just

not sold down south. Sorry! But if you go to a bun thit nuong stand, they might just be able to knock you out a bowl of bun thit xao, the version of this dish from which bun bo nam bo was adapted

M

y love affair with bun bo nam bo began when I came to visit a friend almost two years ago. I was a newcomer in every possible way. I knew next to nothing about Vietnam, Vietnamese history or Vietnamese cuisine. The only exceptions were the AUS$4 Vietnamese rolls, or banh mi, that kept me alive through my university days, which I would regularly get from a family-run shop around the corner from my house. But that was pretty much it.

Bun bo nam bo was the best introduction to Vietnamese street food that I could have asked for. A Hanoi version of a southern dish that is actually made with pork rather than beef, it was easy on the eyes (no weird-looking meats hanging in the windows here, folks), easy on the stomach and a feast for the palate. A delicious combination of salty, wok-tossed beef strips, rice noodles, bean sprouts and a helping of fried onions, balanced by a sprinkle of pickled carrots and vegetables, even though this was hotel-made bun bo nam bo, it was more than enough to spark my interest in Vietnamese food.

But my true religious awakening came when I visited the famous Bun Bo Nam Bo shop on Hang Dieu, near the Hang Da shopping mall. This shop, like many other food shops in Vietnam, specialises in one dish and one dish only. It introduced me to the way many food shops in Vietnam operate: do one thing, do it well and do it fast.

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Within minutes, I was squeezing onto a bench in between lunching locals engaged in high-speed conversations that eclipsed my four-word Vietnamese repertoire. Tucking into a steaming bowl of freshly cooked bun bo nam bo, I noticed nearby locals giggling at the victorious grin on my face. “Em thich,” I managed through a mouthful of rice noodles, causing the table around me to erupt with laughter.

To this day, I still make a weekly trip to the bun bo nam bo shop on Hang Dieu. I sit on the same bench, speak more than four words of Vietnamese and enjoy one of the best dishes Hanoi has to offer. — David Mann

H

anoians are proud people. And they’re particularly proud of their food. After living in Hanoi for almost 12 months I was already happy to consider myself a bona fide resident of the capital. I became even more proud of this when during my first trip to Ho Chi Minh City the hotel maid told me she couldn’t understand my Vietnamese because I “spoke with such a northern accent”.

Naturally, when I ventured down south, I regarded the food with suspicion and an air of superiority. That was until I tried bun thit nuong, a flavoursome blend of barbecued pork, rice noodles, pickled vegetables and fish sauce. For the next three days, I ate bun thit nuong every day. I hounded my Vietnamese colleagues for the best places in the city to eat it. Catch-ups with friends quickly descended into aggressive cross-examinations over where I could find the best bun thit nuong in the city.

“What do you want to eat while you’re here, Dave?” my friend Trang asked me on my second day down south.

“Bun thit nuong! Where?! Can we go now?”

“Calm down Dave, I will show you,” she said, laughing at my manic enthusiasm.

Fortunately, bun thit nuong is not a dish that’s hard to find in Ho Chi Minh City. Local restaurant Nha Hang Ngon delivers consistently good bun thit nuong, while those wanting a more authentic experience of sitting on blue stools and inhaling mouth-watering smoke wafting

David's Pick N HA H ANG N GON @ 160

Pasteur, Q1, HCMC or T HAI B INH M ARKET , Cnr. Cong Quynh and Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, HCMC

over from the barbecue can head to Thai Binh Market.

However, one place where you will struggle to find this dish is Hanoi. When I returned, I went in search for the southern delight only to be disappointed. Bun cha, while kind of similar, doesn’t even come close as a replacement.

I hold out hope, though, that one day this will change and I will stumble upon a hidden alley in Hanoi where I can sit and tuck into my favourite dish in Vietnam. — David Mann

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Trung's Pho Tron Tour Start at 1 Ngo Tat To, Dong Da, Hanoi, then head to 5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; and 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem

A ND I F Y OU ’ RE S AIGON … You

IN

may need to wait on this one

H

anoi is most famous for pho. Every day, you’ll find countless people eating pho for breakfast, lunch and dinner, in hundreds of different ways.

When friends come to Hanoi and ask me for food recommendations, my answer is always pho.

But I’m talking about a very different kind of pho — pho tron.

Tired of having pho with fat soup and too much MSG in the same bowl, I hated pho. But pho tron changed my mind I once tried it in a small restaurant on the pavement near the Temple of Literature.

No fatty soup. No MSG. And the pho was served dry with boneless chicken, bean sprouts, salad and peanuts — all the things that make a difference. A small basket of fresh vegetables comes on the side.

It looks so good, and so beautiful. I like squeezing a kumquat on top and then mixing it all up. It’s now ready to enjoy, but wait, let me take a photo first — snap!!!

I can’t eat two bowls of normal pho at a go, but if you offer me two bowls of pho tron, I’ll take them down. Good taste and no fat — that’s the source of my addiction. — Trung Del

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I

remember the first time I had pho cuon. One of my good Vietnamese friends — who I had a crush on, a not-insignificant part of the story — would often take me out to lunch to discover new food.

And so, one day he brought me to a pho cuon place in Truc Bach in Hanoi. I realised at first bite that pho cuon would become one of my favourite Vietnamese foods. I can’t remember anything we talked about that day, probably because I was busy memorising my first taste.

I was quite embarrassed that I had gone a full year without knowing about it. He wasn’t helping — he was teasing me, making fun of me for not trying pho cuon earlier. But I could see he was proud that he was the one to show it to me.

Now, every time I am showing a visiting friend around Hanoi, I make sure they try pho cuon.

Pho cuon is a roll made of wet rice paper, garnished with cilantro, mustard leaf, lettuce and beef. The wet rice paper is the pho noodles before they’ve actually been cut into noodles, and the dish is served cold with a great sauce made from fish sauce, vinegar, carrots, radish and garlic.

There are many great things about this dish. You can find most of the pho cuon restaurants in Hanoi on Truc Bach Island. It’s a great area that feels like a little village, quieter than the city, with children playing ball in the middle of the street.

Julie's Pick P HO C UON H UNG B EN @

26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

F OR T HOSE IN S AIGON : Check out H AI T HIEN

Pho cuon is only good when it’s very fresh. The sauce is absolutely divine and well-balanced. The rice pancake is soft and thick. The beef is juicy. It’s healthy and full of fresh herbs. It is cheap and perfect for sharing. Just thinking about it makes me hungry! — Julie Vola

@ 14 Bui Vien, Q1. The pho cuon has been adapted to the Saigon palate, but there’s a nice novelty here — the pho cuon is sold in different colours

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Nick's Pick D AT T HANH @ 277 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC. Apparently you can also find bot chien in Hanoi, but you’ll have to search for it

W

hen I first moved to Saigon I lived down an alleyway off De Tham in the Backpacker’s Area. At the time, little was known overseas about Vietnamese food and according to Lonely Planet, the closest thing Vietnam had to a national dish was spring rolls. How things have changed.

Intrigued by the various types of street food I saw in the area, I began trying almost everything. For a while I ate what I thought was pho every morning, to later discover that it was actually hu tieu, and it was in this same area that I discovered bun thit nuong and bo kho.

The one dish, though, that I always saw at night that intrigued me were these pale yellow bricks of some weird substance, fried on a black grill and served up with a fried egg, pickled vegetables and chilli sauce. I tried asking what it was, but no-one could explain. So eventually I tried the dish myself. It’s was bot chien.

I remember the first time I sat down on that small plastic red stool in front of the chrome-topped table.

What would this taste like? Not knowing what I was about to eat made me nervous. But what emerged on my plate was perhaps the Vietnamese equivalent of the egg and chip butty — a British sandwich filled with chips (French fries) and a fried egg. Cholesterol-heavy but oozing with taste — as I later discovered, the pale blocks of substance were actually made from rice flour. Greasy, fattening but damn tasty.

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I haven’t eaten bot chien for years now. Originally from Cholon — an adaptation of a dish originating in Chaoshan (Trieu Chau) in Southern China — it’s increasingly difficult to find in Saigon these days. But my memories of that first taste will always raise a smile to my lips. What was I so afraid of? — Nick Ross

I

f I had to pick one dish to eat for the rest of my life, it would have to be thit kho trung.

Everyone has one dish that their mother or grandmother made as a child that just makes them feel at home. Mine is thit kho trung. If you’ve never had this dish, the best way I can describe it is: pork that is so tender that it crumbles with the slightest touch, hardboiled eggs that have been reheated for about the umpteenth time — leaving scissors for cutting through the egg as more of a necessity than a suggestion — and broth which makes me salivate regardless of if it’s a cold, gelatinous, Flubber-like mess or liquid gold.

Traditionally, thit kho trung is reserved for those fortunate enough to have home-cooked meals. Once only eaten during Tet, it isn’t exactly the most difficult dish to make, being that it’s just braised pork — typically belly, bum or shoulder — boiled eggs and a caramel sauce with a nuoc mam and fresh coconut water base. The only drawback is it can take up to two-and-a-half hours to make, which is why I don’t eat it so often.

Every time I would visit my grandma she would insist that I ate, even if I’d eaten less than an hour prior. As much as I hated it at the time, I always look back at these times with nostalgia. I hated being force-fed, but I loved the dish so I didn’t actually mind. I can still hear it now — “Muon an, khong?” “Khong, cam on”.... “An com di!” — while shoving me into a chair.

While I could very well buy it on the street in Vietnam

Kyle's Pick His grandmother’s kitchen — she loves guests. If not, pretty much any rice restaurant in Southern and Central Vietnam

it’s never as good. To be honest, while nearly every com tam and com binh dan restaurant in the south carries thit kho trung, I couldn’t recommend a single place to try it. Now, this isn’t because they don’t make the dish properly. Every family has a slightly different recipe and no one makes it quite as good as my ba noi. — Kyle Phanroy

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P

ut on your Honesty Cape and place yourself in the following scenario: After you save the life of a Nigerian prince with the timely provision of your US$7,500 wire transfer, he invites you to his lavish palace in Abuja for a celebratory feast. The prince decrees that every notable dish from every global cuisine will be provided for your dining pleasure, as part of the world’s largest-ever buffet table.

There is a catch, however, as there always is with Nigerian princes: you can only have one plate. So, with all of the world’s delicacies at your fingertips, how much plate-space would you devote to Vietnamese cuisine?

Your correspondent’s answer: zero percent.

Make Ready the Torches That doesn’t necessarily mean your correspondent has an irrational hatred of Vietnamese food, though.

We are sloppy with our language. Not in the sense of abbreviations or emojis (the obese cats are adorable, and if you disagree then you’re a silly old coot), but in our word choice. For instance, your correspondent might say that he “loves” chao ga because it reminds him of the ubiquitous chicken-andrice porridge-type gruel his mother used to make.

What he means to say is that he has eaten

chao ga on multiple occasions and found it to be agreeable, with a not-unpleasant flavour and a familiar consistency. But if you asked him to name his Top 50 favourite foods, and he took the time to make the list properly, chao ga would be nowhere to be found.

Unless, perhaps, he felt like presenting himself as extra-sophisticated that day. Then he might be tempted to pepper the Top 50 with any “exotic” food he could remember eating. In that case he might also proclaim his love of Vietnamese bo kho, Laotian aw lahm AND Cambodian somlar mochu sachko, instead of just saying that he likes beef stew.

He would overstate his enthusiasm in the interests of appearing more worldly and progressive.

In reality, your correspondent’s general attitude w/r/t local cuisine can best be summarised as: Vietnamese food is a palatable option for occasional meals, but as a daily diet it has major shortcomings.

Attempted Analysis Let your correspondent suggest four criteria for evaluating a cuisine: cost, variety of flavours, visual presentation and nutritional value. He would argue that Vietnamese food usually satisfies only the first criterion. Street foods such as mi xao bo and bun thit nuong are especially cheap, which is why he used to eat them regularly. And they’re available

Lower your pitchforks and let Niko Savvas explain

*Some estimates go as high as 5,000 litres.

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almost anywhere, which could be considered another advantage.

Flavour and presentation are wildly subjective things to discuss, but your correspondent submits that a majority of Vietnamese dishes appear limpid and sad on the plate, which is often helpfully illustrated by the blurrily magnified canvases stretched across the restaurant’s front entrance. Also, the 2pm remnants of a com tam’s slop pans are a stark reminder of our own perishability.

Regarding flavour, your correspondent’s main impressions of Vietnamese cuisine are the following: 1) Many things are very sweet 2) They are not nearly as spicy as locals claim.

3) There is a strong tendency towards smearable meat pastes, ambiguously grey foodballs and globs of pure fat.

4) Fish sauce is basically soy sauce, except worse.

5) Rice =  Rice is, from an environmental and nutritional viewpoint, a woefully inefficient food to cultivate and eat. According to the UK’s Institute of Mechanical Engineers, it takes more than 2,400 litres of water to produce a single kilogramme of rice.* Comparatively, it takes 287 litres to produce a kilogramme of potatoes. At a time when water rights are sparking armed conflicts and encroaching megadroughts threaten

to destabilise regions from the Indian subcontinent to the American Pacific coast, the costs of rice production are increasingly difficult to justify.

Nor does rice have an impressive dietary resume. It is the edible equivalent of packing peanuts. Deepak Pental, former vice-chancellor of the University of Delhi and one of the world’s most distinguished nutritional scientists (Google it), says, “White rice is the most ridiculous food human beings can cultivate. It is just a bunch of empty starch, and we are filling our bellies with it.”

Vietnamese cuisine relies heavily upon the emptiest kind of rice, too. Today the nutritional advantages of unmilled brown rice, with its bran and germ layers intact,

are widely known, but Vietnamese rice is almost exclusively white, stripped down to its starchy endosperm. It serves little purpose other than to induce a temporary satiety, yet it is the cornerstone of Vietnamese cuisine.

Don’t Panic But enough with the humbug and moodiness — your correspondent’s most enjoyable respites from everyday rice-andnoodlery occur at the following places: In Saigon, visit Zeus on Cong Quynh.

The owner is a Greek man with a hearty moustache. Ask for “three kalamaki pork” and he may mistake you for this correspondent.

In Mui Ne, visit Ratinger Lowe on

the end of the big street by the hill (your correspondent suspects you will be too drunk to remember street names, should you be in Mui Ne). Order the Metzgerplatte, which means “butcher’s plate” in German.

Enjoy the schnitzel and sausages. Fill your pockets with leftover potatoes before you leave.

In Nha Trang, visit Ana Beach House and politely request the spice-rubbed beef tenderloin. If the waiter says it is not available, drown yourself in the nearby infinity pool.

Call Zeus at (08) 3837 3248. Call Ratinger Lowe at (062) 374 1234. Call Ana Beach House at (058) 352 2222. Or just Google them, you lazy bastards

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insider

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Makin

inside r

g it a Realit y Natio nal

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Crowdfunding is still relatively new to Vietnam.

Hoa Le speaks to three people who thanks to the generosity of others have turned dreams into reality.

Photos provided by the campaign organisers

L

ast April, Thanh Phong, one of the best-known cartoonists and illustrators in Vietnam, launched an online campaign for funding.

Working with his friend Khanh Duong, he was hoping to get public support to make a new cartoon series. The appeal went viral.

People were curious. What did the creative brains behind the popular collection of comics, Sat thu dau mung mu (The Murderer with a Pus-Filled Head) have in mind?

But they were also curious about something else. What was this new form of ‘investment’ called crowdfunding? At the time they had little idea. But so attractive was the prospect of seeing Thanh Phong’s new cartoon series, Long Than Tuong (The Dragon General) developed, that a large number of people put in funding.

The reaction was no surprise to Phong and Duong. But whether the project was successful, and the audience trusted them enough to contribute to their target of VND300 million (US$14,300) for the first volume of the series was something they couldn’t predict.

“There have been very few successful crowdfunding projects in Vietnam,” says

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Duong, who initiated the idea and set up the platform for the project. “And VND300 million is quite a big amount of money — in fact it was the largest valued project in the country at the time.”

He adds: “At the beginning my main challenge was talking Phong into the idea.” The cartoonist was concerned that if the project failed then it would affect his reputation.

There are many reasons for a group of artists to use crowdfunding to help them turn ideas into reality. For Phong and Duong, it’s the freedom and the authority that they would have over their products — in this case, the comic series. Traditionally publishing in Vietnam has always gone through an authorised publisher — the authors have little control over their products. As a trade-off for this freedom, the success of the project depends on the crowdfunding — if they don’t raise enough money, the project will die.

In the case of the Echoes project, formally known as Hanoi Soundwalk, musician Josh Kocepek and his team initially received funding from the Danish Embassy. But they needed more money to continue the project into its second phase and expand it to another country.

Limited funding from international foundations was also the reason that the team behind Zone 9 — A Documentary decided last August to run a crowdfunding campaign. The money they received from the Goethe Institut wasn’t enough to finish the documentary. The team needed an extra US$5,000 (VND105 million) for post-production.

Crowdfunding through platforms such as Kickstarter, Indiegogo, Gofundme and Rockethub has become a very popular online vehicle for people with ideas to finance their project through product development

and market research. In Vietnam, though, this is still a fairly new approach. In 2013, a group of young enthusiasts started the first crowdfunding platform in Vietnam called IG9 and successfully raised money for a few projects, but the site stopped running after about a year. To secure the success of a crowdfunding project in a new ‘market’ like Vietnam, you need more than just luck.

The Right Initiative

“There are many reasons for a group of artists to use crowdfunding to help them turn ideas into reality. For Phong and Duong, it’s the freedom and the authority that they would have over their products — in this case, the comic series”

Compared to other types of ventures, artistic crowdfunding projects have advantages.

Because they are creative, interesting and

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“Compared to other types of ventures, artistic crowdfunding projects have advantages. Because they are creative, interesting and unique, they have the ability to attract attention” unique, they have the ability to attract attention. They stand out amongst all the good causes campaigning for your dollars — a lot of them charities, dealing with overwhelming issues — by being more hope-based than problem-based.

The Zone 9 — A Documentary project triggered people’s interest because of its unique subject matter. The film tells of the life of Zone 9, from its establishment to its early closure at the end of 2013. Zone 9 was a unique arts and entertainment complex which emerged in early 2013 on the site of an abandoned pharmaceutical factory.

It soon attracted a host of characters from around the world, all hoping to share their ideas and showcase their talents. The space kept growing until December, when its water and power were abruptly cut off and eviction notices served, forcing all establishments to shut down or relocate.

Zone 9 was short lived, but its legacy survives to this day. The campaign for the documentary successfully raised US$5,800 (VND122 million) in 30 days.

In the case of Echoes, which was recently awarded the Tech in Asia prize, English musician Josh and his team developed a smartphone app and a map of sounds, based on a mixture of historical sounds from the past and contemporary music. As participants walk around a pre-designed route, they can hear the respective sound for each particular location through their headphones. After the pilot scheme in 2013, the team wanted to expand the project to both Hanoi and Copenhagen. The project raised US$5,175 (VND109 million) in 30 days.

Long Than Tuong offers its potential backers a chance to read interesting comics, drawn by the talented artist Thanh Phong and his team. They ran their campaign for 60 days and received a total of VND330 million. After that success, Phong and Duong started an additional campaign to

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make the second volume. They aimed to raise VND200 million. By Dec. 31, 2014, the last day of the campaign, they had received over VND250 million.

“In the West, people often start ideas spontaneously,” says Duong. “A potato salad-making campaign [by Zack Danger Brown] received over US$55,000. But in Vietnam, as people are generally not used to crowdfunding, you need to have a ‘better’ idea.”

Preparation In the Long Than Tuong campaign, both Duong and Phong didn’t have a bank account in the US, which is required to use international platforms such as kickstarter. com. So Duong had to build his own website with the same functions, which took about a month. The website provided Vietnamese backers with a variety of payment options.

“Not everybody in Vietnam has a Mastercard or Visa to pay online,” says Duong. “So in my system, we included every possible payment option you can think of: from transferring money through Vietnamese bank systems to ATM machine payments and Mobiphone credits, which can be converted back into cash. With people who didn’t feel like going out, we provided them with a phone number to call and we sent someone over to collect the money.” As only Duong and Phong were running the project at the time, they hired a service called giaohangnhanh.vn to collect the money for them.

Even if a team decides to use a preexisting international platform for their campaign — Echoes used Indiegogo — Josh says there are still plenty of other things to be taken care of.

“It requires a lot of preparation,” he explains. “We worked really hard to make sure our crowdfunding looked really good and that we had interesting stuff to say all the time.”

Once the campaign started, the team behind Echoes had to constantly ‘sell’ the product to through emails, face-to-face conversations, or Facebook. His group also prepared a live concert where people could listen to the music and donate directly to the project.

In most crowdfunding projects, there are no products to sell yet. Therefore, preparing a professional website, a Facebook page and a clip that shows what the project is about is a must.

“In that two minute-clip, you really need to show people who you are,” days Duong.

“If you don’t do it right, you’ll just fail.”

His team paid VND10 million for their clips and to prepare their materials.

Don’t Give Up Once the project is up and running, you can adjust as necessary. Duong and Phong’s target ‘customers’ were 25 years old and up, middle to high-income people living in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. But to reach them they found themselves spending VND50 million on advertising through Facebook. This helped them filter and approach those potential customers as well as increase publicity.

The Long Than Tuong project also gave its backers a variety of awards according to the amount of money they contributed: from a miniature of a character in the series to becoming one of the characters in the book.

Yet, if at the beginning the project is slow, you still need to stay positive. “I’ve seen people getting upset or frustrated. But that really doesn’t help,” says Josh.

The nature of a crowdfunding project is that many people follow it and watch its progress, only deciding to give money towards the end of the campaign.

“You need to get over the fear of losing,” says Duong. “We were even prepared to return all the money we had raised to the backers. Fortunately we made it.”

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ENTERTAINMENT

VIETNAM

Vietnam’s Got Talent At the finale of one of Vietnam’s leading reality shows, Ed Weinberg finds out what it takes to make it in front of the camera. Translation by Le Thuy Thao Suong

W

e’re seated before the show, and a very loud voice is yelling at us: “What if the performer does a good job? Clap your hands. What if the performer does a not-so-good job? Clap your hands!”

The audience is split into cheering sections, each pulling for one of the finalists. We’re on the stage proper, seated among the friends of the finalists and celebrity judges. To our right — stage-left — crowds of performers are assembled, wearing ao dais and hair-bows and little red stickers on their cheeks to symbolise their good cheer. Women in traditional

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dress (one of whom is actually a man, as the photog seated next to me says — “I have his Facebook”) practise their songs sotto voce, as jets of fire and smoke are given test runs. It’s like a demented version of The Ed Sullivan Show.

Little girls dressed from the Arabian Nights section of the fancy dress market twirl around, shirtless men hold each other in the air and climb metal poles. The celebrity judges come out, singing little ditties about “voting for your favourites”. The pretty young MC — who I’m sure is also famous — gives them a brief intro, the stage curtain maybe collapses, maybe is just disassembled in a super fast and violent way, and we’re off!

Emotions Run High A group takes the stage in jean jackets and Chucks, and does a synchronised dance routine to traditional music-tinged EDM. Those guys already lost, but now another mess of people are on-stage, part of the song-and-dance intro. They’re choosing the finalists in real-time, and the tension is building.

The parents of the effeminate-looking guy who climbed the pole before coming onto the big screen at the back of the stage — his robust father looks like a truck driver or an orthodontist — say “we support you” over and over. Then he gets eliminated.

There’s a little girl who dressed like Michael Jackson in the opening rounds.

Now she comes out dressed like an old woman. “Oh my god,” says translator Suong, “it’s so cute!”

Seated next to two traditional musicians, she hits all her diphthongs. Then the inevitable rock-and-roll breakdown comes, the people in the animal costumes come out, and the girl changes clothes behind a cardboard tree three times to complement the four musical shifts. Suong loses her s***.

Later, the judges also do. “If we had another final round, you could show even more. Your talent is unlimited.” ******* The second-to-last group, two more child performers, come out and do a fun choreographed number. To be honest, it’s a little sloppy. But then again, they’re children, without the years of muscle memory that go into the finely-tuned performances of adult dancers.

More suspect is a national talent competition where three-quarters of the finalists are children.

But the last contestant gets around my ageist bias, dressing as a young wife carried on the back of an old, papiermâché man. Some young bucks come up to flirt while the old man barks, which our young competitor accomplishes with a fan to his face. The child-centaur hops around to traditional music, performing a careful ballet that has been enacted in different forms through the centuries, and not always as well. When it’s over, one judge calls him a genius, while another says, “I’m scared of your talent.” *******

Three of the final groups selected are composed of child performers. Cute child hugs are exchanged among those who survived the cuts. Who could vote against that?

I message David Murray, the American semi-finalist of last year’s edition, who invited me tonight. He’s nervous. “They want me to sing a Vietnamese song and I totally don’t know it.” Crying emoji. “Oh well, it’s just for fun.”

There’s a commercial break, during which the judges ham it up for the photogs. Then they yell “one more minute!” and we all scurry. The performances are starting.

The Talents There’s a man with a fabulous torrent of greyish-white hair, arched salt-andpepper eyebrows and a full-on silver beard. He’s space-evil, a George Clinton fever dream of a Buddhist demon. At the end of the comedy-opera that takes place around him, he gets turned into a vacuum cleaner.

The famous songwriter-judge says something along the lines of, “It wasn’t what I expected. I expected it to be much better. But anyway you’ve made it to the final round, so you’re famous now.”

Greybeard is still smiling his devilish, slightly seductive smile.

Famous comedian-judge Thanh Loc — the Simon Cowell of the Vietnamese edition, in a futuristic grey cloak that falls like a loincloth down to his black stormtrooper boots — sits in the green room after the confetti has fallen, answering questions.

But he doesn’t even wait for the first one to be asked before he ventures, “This year many children got to the final round, but it’s nothing unnatural. They got there because they’re talented.

“I’ve seen many talented children, but this one is the first I’ve seen perform this sort of art,” he continues, gesturing at nine-year-old winner Nguyen Duc Vinh, who’s uncertain but shining, his makeup smeared by all the tears. “What he can do is really valuable for Vietnam.”

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arts

hcmc

b u l C e e Gl

already big e r a ic s u m d Dancing an l theatre? a ic s u m t u B er, in Vietnam. hew Garden t t a M r, e e n by One pio that. Words ll a e g n a h c hopes to Glen Riley y b s to o h P .

Jon Aspin

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I

f you grow up in the west, you have choice. So many possibilities are thrown at you, that making a decision can be overwhelming. Sometimes it can take years, decades even, before a moment of realisation occurs.

For musician and composer Matthew Gardener, this couldn’t be further from the truth. He’s known since he was a young child what he wanted to do.

“My parents took me to see Phantom of the Opera when I was seven,” he recalls, smiling as if it was yesterday. “It’s a long show, quite scary for a kid, so I could have messed about, I could have gotten bored, but I didn’t. As soon as that first orchestra started up, it was chills down the back of my neck stuff, spine-tingling, and I was hooked. After that I knew this was what I wanted to do, and since about the age of 10, I have.”

Arriving in Ho Chi Minh City with his soon-to-be wife Angela last June, and after having done some initial research prior to setting sail, Matthew saw a gap in the market for young people here. Outside of the international school system, people were doing dance classes, people were doing music, but no-one was doing both.

Getting his first break teaching a summer course at Dancenter last year, it was this opportunity that allowed him to establish his own company — Socio Muso. Running with the tagline ‘all things music,’ its core value is ‘spreading the passion of music and the performing arts to individuals and organisations’. Through it, Matthew is now bringing musical theatre to the youth of Vietnam.

Skills for Life His background in doing this is extensive.

He’s a graduate of London’s Royal Academy of Music and he’s worked all over the world as a musical director, musician and composer. It’s a career that has taken him to places as diverse as Dubai, the Caribbean, Singapore, Switzerland and Thailand, where he was living before here.

He also writes jingles for TV commercials and plays piano at various locations around town, mainly GEM Center. However, his passion remains working with children, putting on productions and seeing personalities and life skills developed.

Yet Matthew’s keen to stress that this is not about creating ‘stars’, but giving children

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“‘People who don’t know about musical theatre underestimate how many skills kids can actually learn by being part of it. Confidence, socialising, being organised, working towards deadlines… These are all things that they can apply inside a normal academic curriculum’” the opportunity to work together and create from scratch a production they can be proud of.

“If people go on to have a career then that’s great,” he says, “but what I think is more important is what the kids learn by doing it.”

He adds: “People who don’t know about musical theatre underestimate how many skills kids can actually learn by being part of it. Confidence, socialising, being organised, working towards deadlines… These are all

things that they can apply inside a normal academic curriculum.”

Starting Small I ask him if it’s been been tough to attract enough children to start what is essentially Saigon’s first private Glee Club? Enjoying the reference to the television programme, he says that while the schools have been quite protective, once the word spread as a result of that initial seven-week course at Dancenter, the number of enrolments

“Once the word spread as a result of that initial seven-week course at Dancenter, the number of enrolments began to grow”

began to grow. It’s already a far cry from one his first experiences here. He describes being asked by one of the smaller bi-lingual schools to run a musical theatre workshop.

Only it was on stage and in front of 300 Vietnamese speakers. He tried without luck to entice eight young participants to perform on cue. It was a humbling beginning.

“They just ran riot,” he says giggling at the memory. “There was so much noise it was impossible to do it justice. It was pretty much a case of ‘here’s a microphone, you’ve got 10 minutes, good luck’.” Luckily he’s moved on from there.

In starting the business he’s also had some good advice. A perfectionist, and a person who loves to be in control, he’s had to let go a little bit. It’s meant starting small, and building on real world relationships with parents, teachers and students. For this he thanks his fiancée, who’s well versed in helping businesses grow — she works in the advertising industry. Matthew’s also had some experience working for companies where quality has been sacrificed for quantity, and it’s not a model he intends to

follow. As long as he’s got enough money to pay rent and eat, that’s all he wants.

“At first people didn’t want to know because I was an unknown,” he explains.

“But now, with the help of the network I’ve created on top of the musical youth theatre, I’m doing several summer-long workshops for a couple of the international schools. It feels like we’re going to be here a few years.”

Getting into Character So what of the ability to make children perform in front of others? Is it only for the most precocious and outgoing of kids?

Not at all, says Matthew. He talks about the need to inspire, instill passion and create a safe environment for young people to experiment and be creative. He remembers being inspired by his own teacher when he enrolled in his first musical theatre class, and hopes to do the same here.

“I find kids are quite similar wherever you go,” he explains. “If they enjoy it, and if you’re passionate enough about it and if you can convey your passion, they will too.

Because expat kids are so used to moving

around and making friends, they are easier to work with, and open to trying new things.”

Coming up at the end of May, Socio Youth Musical Theatre will put it all to the test when they perform a musical version of Peter Pan. Staged at the International School Saigon Pearl on May 30, this will be the first time most of his students will be involved in a real life production.

With the music composed by Matthew, he’s hoping that it will be a great chance for the community to come together, to see what Socio is all about, and hopefully attract a few new budding actors, singers and dancers to his burgeoning ‘glee club’ troupe.

The evening is free, and promises to be “an hour-and-a-half of enthusiasm and passion from the kids, mixed in with the enjoyment of seeing children doing something they really love, something they have created and worked hard on together since January.”

If you or your children are interested in musical theatre, go to sociomuso.com and find out how to get your tickets to Peter Pan the musical on Saturday May 30

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insider National

p u C y r t s a P m a n t e i V e h T Eat & Drink

eads back to the h r ie av X s ci an Fr ion, as ing s since the last edit ar ye o tw g iers have been cook n ss lo ti a pâ en st be ’s It’s be am tn Cup to see what Vie Vietnamese Pastry

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Y

ou may think of Vung Tau only for its beaches, roads and nightlife. But for me this former war-time RnR spot is the place where the Vietnamese Pastry Cup happens every two years, at the Pacific Pastry Academy.

This may be hard to believe, but it does exist. In fact this is the fifth time it’s happened, and it’s our second Word article on the subject.

The Vietnam Pastry Cup was inaugurated 10 years ago by the famous French chef Bruno Pastorelli in order to promote Vietnamese culinary arts and send the most talented to France to train and compete in the Mondial Des Arts Sucrés — sort of like the World Cup of pastry. All contestants must be Vietnamese, and each two-person team must have a male and female member, so both genders have an equal chance to show off their talents.

We arrived late morning at the Pastry Academy, inside an all-white room always kept at 16°C, contestants running back and forth preparing their products. As for the

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spectators, everyone was competing to take pictures of their home team, while the film crew and I pushed our way through to get the best shots.

Caravelle Saigon won first prize with their great overall performance and an impressive sea-inspired sugar piece, which combined multiple textures and shapes made of sugar.

Crunch Time

The Winners’ Circle

Coming back from lunch, the atmosphere was getting tense. There wasn’t much talking or taking pictures. It was almost time for the first tasting: chocolate bonbons.

Hours went by and the brutal summer heat penetrated the white room. It was definitely not 16°C in here anymore. The day got longer. We started to feel the fatigue.

Hung from Team Marriot Hanoi was putting one of his sugar bubbles onto the giant green sugar wreath he made, but when he took his eyes off of it, it started to fall off. Luckily, he was warned and he saved the sugar bubble from falling, but not from breaking. The heat made completing the shaped sugar pieces into a challenge.

Despite the ferocity of the long day, all the teams finished in time. The sun came down and it was time to reveal the winner.

— The Caravelle Saigon team held the winners’ cup. Ms. Tran Thi Thuy Van and Mr. Nguyen Ngoc Dung will represent Vietnam at the 5th edition of the Mondial Des Arts Sucrés in Paris in February 2016.

— 2nd Prize went to Marriot Hanoi. The team members won an all-inclusive training seminar in Hong Kong, under the tuition of Master Chef Jeffrey Koo, to be sponsored by Capfruit in March 2016.

— 3rd Prize went to Salinda Phu Quoc.

They will have the opportunity to join an allinclusive training programme at the French Culinary School in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, under the tuition of a Master Pastry Chef — to be sponsored by Fonterra in October 2015.

— 4th Prize went to Sheraton Nha Trang.

They won a pastry book sponsored by Valrhona chocolate.

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insider

The Judges S hahar (S hay ) L ubin

Chef-owner of Daluva, one of the capital’s most innovative restaurants, Shay has a love affair with American, Middle Eastern and Vietnamese cuisine, and is particularly obsessed with fish sauce, which he uses as lavishly as possible. A frequenter of Hanoi’s alleyways, when it comes to street food, Shay likes it local.

T u N guyen (C hef T u )

Executive chef at Don’s Tay Ho, Tu is one of Hanoi’s best-known and equally well-revered western-trained, Vietnamese chefs. Known as much for his cuisine as he is for his smile and hospitality, Tu’s repertoire of dishes extends from French, Italian and North American all the way through to pan-Asian.

H uyen T ran

Street food writer at Word, Huyen is passionate about discovering the stories behind the local people who create the cuisine of Hanoi. A freelancer and marketer, Huyen has been writing the Street Snacker column for Word since 2012.

C hau G iang

Area manager at Word, prior to entering the world of magazines, Giang worked in F&B, both at the Press Club and later at Softwater. Boasting a wideranging knowledge of Vietnam, the Hue-born mother of two has assisted many generations of Word writers in discovering the country since 2010.

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eat & drink

Hanoi

Hanoi’s Best Pho

Where can you get the best pho bo in Hanoi? As the old Vietnamese saying goes, ask nine people and you’ll get 10 different opinions.

Courtesy of our four judges we went in search of a definitive answer. Words by Huyen Tran.

Photos by Trung Del, Julie Vola and Nick Ross

L

ike pizza in Italy, pho is synonymous with Vietnam, but in particular with Hanoi. The country’s best-known dish is found everywhere — from humble streetside joints to classy hotels.

While the recipe varies from place to place, and is often shrouded in secrecy, the dish still maintains a distinctive taste.

With so many opinions out there on which eatery offers up the best pho bo in Hanoi — the dish’s spiritual home — we decided to find out for ourselves.

To do this we sent out four eager judges to 10 well-known pho joints in the centre of the city. Sharing steaming bowls of pho tai chin — noodle soup with sliced well-done steak and rare steak — our courageous pho tasters braved late spring humidity, Old Quarter traffic and beef sweats to ravage their way through more red meat than is healthy. Here is their verdict.

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Pho Tu Lun

Pho Ly Quoc Su

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem VND50,000

10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem VND45,000 to VND70,000

A traditional pho joint popular in the period just after the Doi Moi reforms, the original owner, Tu Lun, was famous for his signature preparation of pho. After he passed away, two of his sons took over and have divided the labour into two shifts: morning and afternoon.

Their family formula offers up a broth with a strong hint of fish sauce, yet the taste remains rich thanks to the braised beef

and bones. A bowl of pho here has a fragrant aroma thanks to the light scent of the noodles and the thin-sliced green onion. The homemade chilli sauce is a plus.

Overall Verdict For diners who prefer their broth salty, Pho Tu Lun is a great choice. The meat is tender, the quay breadsticks are crispy and the eatery is quiet, clean and friendly.

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Another pho restaurant in the top three, the fresh look and feel of the pho here makes a bowl of the good stuff perfect for the morning diner. The broth is clear, clean and tasty, although a bit salty for some. But the stock still maintains that true taste of beef bone braised for long hours. “The broth tastes really different,” said Tu. “Maybe it’s due to this family’s secret way of selecting the right seasoning.”

The beef here is another plus point — tender and perfectly sliced.

Overall Verdict The eatery is clean and compared to other joints, more upmarket. But the ‘bring ‘em in, throw ‘em’ out food chain mentality can be off-putting, especially in such a cramped space. With customers waiting for unoccupied tables, diners get the impression they’re expected to eat up and leave quickly.

While the noodles were a bit bland, the quay was the best we tasted. Price-wise this joint is a bit expensive, but acceptable for its quality.

Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan 49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi VND40,000 / VND50,000 Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan is renowned for offering subtle flavours, and a clear broth, yet it is equally notorious for what some describe as its ‘arrogant’ service. Here you have to stand in line and pay in advance to get your bowl of soup. Thus the nickname — Pho Xep Hang or ’Line-Up Pho’.

Known for serving a classic version of Hanoi-style pho, the broth is light and slightly sweet, while the noodles are thin and cooked just right. The meat is fresh — the perfectly thin and tender sliced pieces of beef are rich in taste — while the bowl of goodness is rounded off by fresh green onion

on top. Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan is one of the few joints that do not provide fresh lime as a condiment. Say some diners, “They think the lime spoils the broth.” Here eaters have to make do with garlic vinegar and chilli.

Overall Verdict Our judges rated Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan as one of the top three pho bo places in Hanoi. The beef-sweetened broth and lack of MSG make this place a winner. Price-wise it’s reasonable too, and on a hygiene front, we gave pho xep hang an 8. The only downer? The bread sticks or banh quay weren’t crispy. Damn!

The Criteria We used the following criteria to assess the pho. Each category was marked out of 10.

— Broth — Meat — Noodles — Price — Hygiene — Condiments — Overall taste

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Pho Vui

Pho Cuong

25 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem VND50,000

23 Hang Muoi, Hoan Kiem VND35,000 to VND60,000

Another family-owned business, despite serving up pho for 40 years, the broth is bland, with a strong taste of ginger and onion.

There is also a distinct hint of MSG. The noodles are soft and taste good. However, the meat only received 5 points out of 10 as it is badly cut; some pieces

are chewy and difficult to eat. Hygiene-wise, Pho Vui also performs badly, and the condiments don’t look fresh.

Overall Verdict In terms of taste, mediocre.

As Shay put it: “A hole in the wall.”

The only broth we encountered with a strong whiff of cinnamon and star anise. Yet, the taste also has an annoying trace of MSG. The meat is fragrant and tasty, the noodles are quite good, but the quay is not crispy. The condiments are fresh and both the service and dining area are fairly clean. As far as overall taste, a 7 out of 10.

Overall Verdict This spacious restaurant creates a relaxed feeling for diners. However, Pho Cuong relies on a quick turnover of customers, creating pressure on the customer to eat and leave.

Reasonably priced.

“Its context creates an old and traditional feeling, relaxed and chilled”

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Pho Suong

Pho Bo Cu Chieu

24 Trung Yen, Dinh Liet, Hoan Kiem VND35,000 to VND80,000

48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem VND45,000 to VND60,000

Located in a tight alley off Dinh Liet, this eatery is comprised of two dining spaces, both opposite each other. Pho Suong stands out as the only joint using a meat slicing machine however, they fall down on the broth, which has a tough taste and a decided hint of MSG — we all marked it around 5 or 6 out of 10. In contrast, the meat is excellent.

The brisket is rich and moist, and there are a range of other beef options, too. If you go for

the ‘special’ bowl at VND80,000 you get the full kit and caboodle.

Another nice addition are the spring onion bulbs placed on top of the pho.

Overall Verdict The taste here is mediocre when compared to its price and the eatery isn’t too clean.

Because of the alley location, diners with bikes will have trouble parking during rush hour.

Another pho bo joint serving up a broth with a strong emphasis on fish sauce. But instead of tasting salty, the broth has a clean flavour and a fragrant aroma. The meat is rich and tender, and there is a nice selection of fatty meat for those who are so inclined. Like Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan, this place doesn’t offer up lime as a condiment. Said Shay, “When they choose not to offer lime on the table, it means they are

confident that their broth is already great and it does not need any lime to bolster the taste. It’s kind of a statement.”

Overall Verdict The joint is small yet not always crowded, so it never feels cramped here. The condiments are a bit limited and the quay is not crispy, although the price is acceptable and the service is friendly.

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Pho Bung Hang Trong

Pho Thin Bo Ho

On the sidewalk of Hang Trong, near the crossing with Hang Bong VND25,000 The word bung means to carry something with your hands.

Add the word pho in front of this and you get pho bung, or true streetside pho. Open daily from 4pm to 8pm, here diners sit on low stools and wait for their servings, then self-serve without having a table to put their bowls on. The broth is especially clear and light, like consommé.

However, the meat selection is limited. Bunches of minced green onion and coriander are

61 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem VND50,000 to VND70,000 put on top of the bowl, spicing up the broth. The noodles are quite good and the quay was crispy. 7 points for overall taste.

Overall Verdict Pho bung is seen more as a snack — and at only VND25,000 for a small bowl, you can understand why. The eating-on-the-street experience makes this place super ‘authentic’. To me, it’s places like this that maintain the original spirit of street food.

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There’s a place with the same name on Lo Duc, which makes it confusing to some diners, since the pho at this joint is traditional pho bo — not the sautéed version you get in Lo Duc. A food stand against the wall of a small alley, the broth here is clear, light and slightly sweet thanks to braised bones and good seasoning. The steak is tender and rich in taste. The noodles are also as good as the meat. Onion and herbs spice

up the broth. The condiments are good — delicious garlic vinegar and chilli sauce. 8 out of 10 for overall taste.

Overall Verdict For some diners, the joint feels quite clean compared to its alley context. Yet, some feel that hygiene here may be an issue.

“Its context creates an old and traditional feeling, relaxed and chilled,” said Shay. To me, it was over-priced.

The Final Scores

Pho Thin Lo Duc 13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung VND50,000 Okay, we know. This is not pho bo chin.

But Pho Thin is so good that we decided we couldn’t leave it out. The difference here is the preparation of the meat.

Stir-fried with garlic it is added to the noodles before the broth is poured over the top. This seemingly minor difference transforms the flavour, creating a different dining experience. The shreds of meat are aromatic and blended with fresh green onions. The stir-fried beef makes the broth rich and sweet, yet a bit

The scores below are averaged and marked out of 10 fattier. Condiments here include fresh lime, pickled chillies and home-made chilli sauce. The quay tastes amazing after being soaked up in the rich broth. For such a big bowl of meat, the prices here are very reasonable.

Overall Verdict The overall taste of the pho bo at Pho Thin is so good that it can more than hold its own against its more traditional competitors elsewhere.

“When they choose not to offer lime on the table, it means they are confident that their broth is already great and it does not need any lime to bolster the taste. It’s kind of a statement.”

1) Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan — 8.6 2) Pho Ly Quoc Su — 8.5 3) Pho Thin Lo Duc — 8.4 4) Pho Tu Lun — 8.1 4) Pho Bo Cu Chieu — 8.1 6) Pho Cuong — 8.0 7) Pho Thin Bo Ho— 8.0 8) Pho bung Hang Trong — 7.4 9) Pho Vui — 6.8 10) Pho Suong — 6.7

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Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Grill 63 The newest kid on the block, Grill 63 in the Lotte Center is pitching for the high-end steak market. So, how well does it fare? Photos by Trung Del

A

sk any local and they will probably tell you that, like in most big cities around the world, steak is a competitive business in Vietnam. Hanoi in particular plays host to a heavyweight standoff between steak juggernauts like El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse, Jackson’s Steakhouse and French Grill. Between the three of them, they cast a wide net across the city, ‘steaking’ their claim to cashed up foreigners and locals wanting to sink their teeth into a big juicy steak.

Grill 63 is the newest upscale steakhouse

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to enter this ‘high steaks’ game, hoping to carve a niche in the emerging commercial section of Ba Dinh. Housed in the new Lotte Hotel and far away from its biggest competitors, Grill 63 has hoped to set the bar high — literally — as the new high-rise dining hotspot in Hanoi.

A Numbers Game Inside, Grill 63 has the hallmarks of a finedining establishment. The eye-catching décor is both modern and sleek with elegant parquetry floors and opulent high ceilings.

But the real draw card is the view, and as

its name suggests, the restaurant is perched way up on the 63rd floor, offering unrivalled panoramic views of Hanoi’s evolving skyline.

The understated menu is a balance of traditional and contemporary fare to suit a wide range of palettes and cravings. Diners can even have their pick of restaurant specialties like the beef tartar “Grill 63” — 100 gram tenderloin served with caviar, brioche and an intriguing vodka crème fraiche (VND320,000).

As you’d expect, though, all of this comes at a pretty high price, and then some

THE VERDICT

12.5 FOOD

13

SERVICE

(prices are not inclusive of VAT or service charge). Appetisers start at VND200,000 for a Nicoise salad and go right up to the more extravagant foie gras plate served with blueberries and brioche (VND650,000). Thankfully, however, the delicious olive focaccia bread with house made butter is entirely complimentary and self-replenishing.

For starters, we opted for the eyecatching “Salmon 45”, a texture-rich blend of soft salmon confit and caviar delivered on a fluffy bed of cauliflower mousseline, and with a side of crispy potato (VND350,000).

The texture of the salmon confit was pleasantly smooth, while the salty caviar and fried potato helped balance the subtle taste.

Arriving next, the grilled polenta medallions served with ratatouille and shaves of Parmesan (VND200,000) made for a nice bridge between the subtle-tasting salmon and the steak that followed.

Those less inclined towards meat can choose from a neat selection of pastas and risottos on the menu. A healthy range of seafood options are also on hand, ranging from the

succulent 200 gram sea bass fillet (VND300,000) to the half a kilogram of premium lobster tail available for a cool VND2,300,000.

The Pièce de Résistance For everyone else, you can’t ignore the steak. And you shouldn’t. If you’ve got money to burn, the 200 gram Wagyu beef tenderloin with an impressive marble score of 8 (one of the highest quality cuts of steak in the world) will set you back a mere VND2,600,000. Angus beef, rib eye and New Zealand lamb options are reasonably priced between VND750 and VND890,000 a go.

We, however, decided to go for the entry-level option: a sensibly priced 200 gram prime sirloin steak (VND420,000) with a simple side of grilled asparagus (VND70,000). Any guilt we were harbouring about feeling cheap instantly vanished once we saw the handsome, lava stone-grilled steak floating towards us from the open kitchen. Perfectly seasoned, cooked with precision and sleekly presented on a modern butcher’s block with complimentary Café de Paris and peppercorn sauce, each

mouthful was a big juicy knockout.

The grilled asparagus also added a nice burst of freshness to the saltiness of the steak.

Overall, Grill 63 performs strongly on most fronts. But there were moments where we felt that the execution felt a little bit inconsistent. The amuse bouche, for example, was a simple fresh spring roll with a bland-tasting fish cocktail sauce. The pecan nut brownie that we ordered for dessert (VND180,000) tasted dry and was served at room temperature.

The complementary petit fours, a Belgian chocolate and a strangetasting macaroon, tasted store bought and left an unpleasant taste in our mouth after the opulent steak and hearty appetisers.

Granted, these are little things, but they contribute to the overall feel of a restaurant, and in this tier of the market, there’s little margin for error. That aside, Grill 63 provides a compelling for those special occasions that call for a mean steak and an even meaner view.

Grill 63 is on Floor 63, Lotte Centre, 54 Lieu Gai, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

13 DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

Zombie BBQ

Just before its move to new premises, our undercover reporter heads to Zombie to get the scores on the doors. Photos by Nick Ross

C

onfronted by a mountain of meat, we sit, shocked into silence. The smell of pork ribs, tangy, charred and sweet, taunts us: can we finish this meal? I settle a napkin over my lap, and loosen my belt. My stomach growls.

My date shakes her head.

“American barbecue,” I tell her, knowing this is a battle we cannot win.

Who cares? Going down fighting is good enough.

Welcome to Zombie BBQ in District 2, where going home hungry takes sincere effort. Ho Chi Minh City’s newest American barbecue spot goes by a few crucial US rules: offer tonnes of food at good prices, watch your customers waddle home, and profit.

It’s but one of a number of American BBQ places spreading like grave-mould; the (relatively) venerable Quan Ut Ut with its excellent beer is opening a second location, and of course TNT BBQ rallies on in District 4. Restaurants from Al Fresco’s

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to Skewers offer American-style BBQ ribs, landing all over the map in terms of quality and style. Zombie, however, seems to strive for the middle ground, balancing expat and local tastes atop a mountain of grub. In my opinion, good food at good prices — good meat, especially — transcends borders, however you slice it.

Vegetables Need Not Apply Zombie’s menu bulges with burgers, chicken, tacos and ribs; in a nod to local tastes, it goes beyond standard beef, pork and chicken, offering local delights like pork belly and alligator, as well as resurrecting local favorites such as Willie Woo’s southern fried chicken and waffles.

What’s a food guy to do? After sampling the pots of house-made BBQ sauce slyly offered at the start, we bowed to the inevitable, ordering the sampler platter Plane Crash (VND350,000) with Carolina sauce, whose sausage, ribs, chicken and pork belly could have fed us both. But no,

we also had to cram in the half-rack of ribs (VND230,000) with Kansas City sauce, the smoked rabbit (VND180,000) with Devil’s Dream sauce and Mexican Street Corn (VND30,000). Sides also attended each entrée — cornbread, baked beans and coleslaw. You name it, we couldn’t finish it.

For dessert, we gorged on the Rice Krispy Treat S’mores (VND80,000), a crispy, sticky concoction oozing with melted marshmallow and chocolate sauce. Just to put the nail in our over-indulgence, we topped it with a scoop of vanilla ice cream (VND39,000). We cleared that plate alone, and I still feel my pancreas crying.

Pleasures of the Flesh Trying new western BBQ places has been a recent hobby, and Zombie stacks up well.

Zombie cooks the ribs just right — fatty meat redolent with woodsmoke not quite falling off the bone, offering just enough resistance to remind yourself that you’re tearing into animal flesh. The chicken is

more tender, the rabbit smoky-sweet and low priced. I wish the sauce came a bit thicker, or sides of it came with the entrees, but I truly appreciate the authentic slowcooked style. It’s a rarity, but Zombie has it.

Meat may dominate the menu, but the range of sides complements it well.

Grilled corn, cornbread, mac n’ cheese, baked beans, coleslaw — all the expected accompaniments — plus onion rings, fries, potato salad, nachos and authentic hush puppies.

The drinks menu is fine, though cocktail options are limited; really, though, if people come for BBQ, then chances are they’ll be chugging brewskis. Teetotalers can sip on the array of fresh juices and smoothies.

Service was prompt and friendly, but a warning about the sheer volume of food we unwittingly ordered would have been nice. Still, the servers did their job, carrying out platter after platter, and packing up our leftovers with amused smiles.

In Transition Judging a restaurant’s look right before a move to new premises is a bit odd — how does one judge decor when it’s barely present? The old French villa is certainly nice, with a clubby, cabana-like atmosphere in the courtyard. The specials signage seemed like a rush job, hard to read and awkwardly designed. Overall, it felt like a place in transition. Even the old McSorley’s sign still hangs outside.

I can say the pictures of the new place in Parkland look nice, and I will want to see it for myself. Regardless, a BBQ joint’s soul resides in its food, and Zombie has that covered.

Ultimately, we’ll have to see what Zombie BBQ does after their move. That doesn’t answer my most heartfelt question: why aren’t there brains on the menu?

Zombie BBQ is located at 4 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC, but moves to Parkland 628A Vo Truong Toan, Q2, HCMC on May 4

THE VERDICT

13 FOOD

12

SERVICE

10 DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

fashion

THE GOLDEN IMPRINT Making her Word debut in our March 2015 Photography Issue, Madrid-based Viet Ha Tran is one of the fashion world’s hottest young creators. A self-taught photographer, she started her professional career just two years ago — balancing 12hour shoots for Vogue Italia with full-time employment as a director of admissions at IE Business School in Madrid, martial arts and travelling. Of course, she speaks Vietnamese, English, Japanese and Spanish.

The Golden Imprint is an art photography project between Viet Ha and Ho Chi Minh City-based fashion designer Van Thanh Cong, which aims to promote Vietnamese tradition and fashion to the world. The handmade costumes were inspired by the phoenix motifs on 2,000-year-old Dong Son bronze drums, and the shoot location was a temple in Ho Chi Minh City.

“I don't take photos, I try to paint a world of feelings, poetry and philosophy with my camera.”

— Viet Ha Tran

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Van Thanh Cong’s designs have appeared in competitions like Miss World Universe and Miss World Vietnam, as well as in most of the major Vietnamese fashion magazines.

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The photo shoot also had the participation of three internationally-known Vietnamese supermodels — Dieu Huyen, Quanh Di and Nhu Van — and the renowned accessory designer Do Van Tri.

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Photographer: Viet Ha Tran Fashion Designer: Van Thanh Cong Accessory Designer: Do Van Tri Models: Dieu Huyen, Quanh Di, Nhu Van

Makeup and Hair: Dat Le (Ghy Trang Diem), Donald, Duy Derek Yuan Assistant Photographers: Thiet Vu, Dong Hung, Vu Nguyen, Kirby Vu

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travel

TRAVEL

NATIONAL

Into the Mangrove

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In search of fresh air and wildlife, Kyle Phanroy, Francis Xavier and Nick Ross take a day trip out of Ho Chi Minh City by speedboat and get charmed by the often under-rated district of Can Gio

“O

h it’s so nice to get out of the city,” says Kyle with a yawn, as he stretches out on the boat.

We’re on our way back from a hot but well-worth-the-effort day trip to Can Gio, the mangrove swamps to the southeast of Ho Chi Minh City. Often called the lungs of Saigon due the abundance of untouched jungle, the islands of Can Gio act as a buffer between Vietnam’s largest metropolis and the sea. They are also home to a diverse array of wildlife.

Unfortunately for this outer district of Ho Chi Minh City, Can Gio is known by many

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for its waste-of-time beaches — mixtures of river silt and sand that are best left undeveloped. Monkey Island, although a typical stop-off point, should also feature low on the must-see list. The macaques are vicious, the penned-up crocodiles hungry.

The place is so badly set up that rarely will you see a visitor leaving with something to write home about, unless it’s negative.

But our trip by Les Rives speedboat is different. Starting at the temporary port on Ton That Thuyet in District 4, we race past shanty houses before speeding along the canal towards Trung Son, RMIT and Phu My Hung. Then we head south into the Mekong Delta and the market town of Can Giuoc.

Leaving the road behind us is liberating.

It allows us to experience a part of the city that you never see by car or bike. And with the wind blowing through our hair and the cooler air, you realise that Ho Chi Minh City is not just a growing mass of concrete, metal and glass.

The Market Market trips for the over-initiated are of the been-there, done-that variety. In Vietnam, once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. But this little excursion to Can Giuoc, the first part of our trip, is different. The reason? The people. The market area is clean, too. Surprisingly clean.

Unlike your typical, acerbic market

trader in Vietnam, here the stall-holders are full of smiles and laughter. Not fake smiles, like you may get in other nameless nations elsewhere in Southeast Asia. This is real.

Our visit excites interest. As we wander

On the Boat We took our trip to Can Gio with Les Rives — lesrivesexperience.com.

The speedboat-cum-tour company runs a range of trips on the Saigon River and along its tributaries, including sunset cruises, trips to Cu Chi Tunnels and the Mekong Delta.

Check their website for details.

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 127

through the various sections of the market, our guide Kha points out a range of fruit and vegetables that most of us — even hardened Vietnamophiles — have never seen before. Quickly you become struck by the diversity of this country. It’s a diversity that is easily missed in the big city.

As we leave I regret not buying anything.

After taking pictures of the betel nut seller, we moved on. Hundred-year-old eggs anyone?

Wildlife and River We then boarded the boat and zoomed our way into the confines of Can Gio, passing

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swift farms — concrete and windowless, these air-conditioned buildings are used to harvest bird nests — before arriving at Vam Sat, the other and by-far-superior of the tourist traps in Can Gio. What we saw in the two Vam Sat sites we visited went something like this: — Poison mangrove trees — Birds — Fruit bats hanging upside down in trees — More birds — Mangroves — More mangroves — Long-tail macaques — Fish that have gills and lungs and can

walk on land — More birds from a 72-step-high watchtower — Crocodiles — Deer But let’s take a step back. Despite the amazing abundance of wildlife — and we were here only at the start of the bird season — the sites that make up Vam Sat lack organisation and are in need of repair.

Yes, we all know that Vietnam needs to work on its state-run tourist sites. It’s not a secret. Yet there is a weird kind of pleasure to the lack of slickness of here. Not every tourist attraction on this planet needs to

be glossy and designed with space age precision to make it worth a visit. Vam Sat is typical of old Vietnam, the country we are losing so fast. Visiting it was like walking into another world.

Back to Reality As we head back into town I am strangely tired. I lie down on the speedboat and try to

sleep. But after 10 minutes I raise my head.

Take your eyes off the river for just a second and you may miss something. The sites here are such a feast on the eyes that I don’t want to miss even the smallest rowing boat or the latest high-rise development.

We were only out of the city for seven hours. But as we return to Ho Chi Minh City, it feels like it could have been days.

Competition W ORD is running a competition to win

two (2) one-day trips for a family of four to Can Gio with Les Rives. The prizes are worth from US$200 (VND4.3 million) each.

For information on how to enter, please turn to page 33

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 129

travel

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travel

DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI – MID-RANGE / HANOI – BUDGET / HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE

$$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn

tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three– night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.

CUC PHUONG

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006 cucphuongtourism.com

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 02183 825662 etoile-des-mers.com

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com

MAI CHAU ECOLODGE DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.

In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031) 388 0888 pearlriverhotel.vn

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking

Na Phon, Hoa Binh, Tel: (04) 6275 1271 maichau.ecolodge.asia Occupies a private hill in Na Phon Village in Mai Chau, Hoa Binh — a beautiful valley roughly 135km southwest of Hanoi — Mai Chau Ecolodge is a new four-star property featuring 21 bungalows built and operated with ecological principles in mind.

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: (0218) 386 8959 maichaulodge.com

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108 novotelhalong.com.vn

TAM COC GARDEN RESORT Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249 2118 contact@tamcocgarden. com tamcocgarden.com Surrounded by rice fields and spectacular karsts,

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Tam Coc Garden is a haven of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.

Spacious rooms with rustic and chic décor, a pool with breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic views over the fields and mountains. The perfect place to relax.

HANOI - INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL

$$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel. com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women.

Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the

hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.

The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396 hanoi.hgi.com With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500 hanoi.hilton.com Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental. com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake.

Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi

is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown.

In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi. com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment.

Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.

The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique.

Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan

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Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt.

The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.

The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

$$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

REX HOTEL

EQUATORIAL

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2185

rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now five-star property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

(08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

NORFOLK HOTEL

ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International

HCMC - MID-RANGE $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC - BUDGET

EMM HOTEL

DUC VUONG HOTEL

157 Pasteur, Q3 A sleek, contemporary threestar hotel that mixes vintage appeal and modern chic thanks to a subdued palette of white and grey around two ‘pop’ colours: azalea pink and green hot pepper. Part of the Thien Minh Group that includes Victoria Hotels and Buffalo Tours.

$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - DELUXE CONTINENTAL

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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DESTINATION ZERO VICTORIA CAN THO RESORT

O

ur taxi transitioned onto gravel as we approached the wide-open entrance of Victoria Can Tho, a shock after the clean asphalt of the airport road. Wooden pillars held up a thatch-covered roof, the air beneath stirred up by a dozen synchronised fans. We sat down on wicker-backed chairs, receiving a cool towel, a welcome drink and a 10-minute shoulder massage. The day was still, the only sounds were the womp-wompwomp of the ceiling fan and the delicate snores of the sunbathers just outside.

We walked up to our room, through the

generous lobby, up the alabaster staircase.

Potted plants lined our way as we walked down silent hallways that felt like they could date from the colonial period — not just its relatively removed 1990s vintage. It felt like the hotel in The Shining, but in a good way.

As we entered our room for the next two days, we were fairly struck. The feeling is hard to describe, but it had something to do with the angles of light hitting the earthy colours of the décor. It was peaceful and intoxicating all at once.

A bonsai tree thrived on a sideboard table.

A container of house-made preserves waited

on the drawing table, a token of appreciation for our stay. A little card described the natural occurrence of little geckos invading our room, offering to remove them if they proved a bother.

Later, as we were settling in, we heard a knock at the door — our turndown service.

The customary chocolates were branded with Victoria’s logo, and accompanying them was a scroll containing a Vietnamese fable, tied with a red ribbon. That night before bed, I read about the The Hundred-Knot Bamboo Tree, the Vietnamese atmosphere in the room so thick you could cut it with a knife.

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Leaving the Room As Can Tho was our last destination on a five-stop trip, we spent our share of time in this suite, the nicest room we’d yet encountered. We sat by the pool, indulged in the happy hour (gulping down the dinner-ruining canapés on offer) and took in the sights of the lobby, which included a traditional loom-weaver teaching her skill to a young woman in hotel-issue slacks. We even played a round of chess on the glasstopped table we’d been snacking upon. Dad killed me, of course.

We went on a couple of river cruises

— mostly geared for tourists, things like the rice noodle factory visit interested me more in an anthropological way than anything (our guide telling us we had to try the ‘rice noodle pizza’ speciality was particularly rich). But interspersed in the package-tour stuff were the quirky, nowhere-else-inthe-world highlights I look for, like the untouristed 300-year-old Khmer temple complex just a few clicks away, housing a 15-metre reclining Buddha in the early stages of construction. We also met an adorable grandmother on another riverside walk, who forced jackfruit seeds into my hands until I

said no more — then she put more into my shirt-pocket.

Returning to the hotel, walking through the diverse garden that meets the river access — where the complimentary river taxi to downtown Can Tho also docks — we saw the hotel’s lit-up aspect, overhanging balconies hugging the sides of the pool. And it occurred to us that this was the true face of the hotel, just another beautiful stop on the course of a long and winding river. — Ed Weinberg Check out Victoria Can Tho at victoriahotels. asia/cantho

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TRAVEL PROMOS

La Residence in Hue

Mother’s Day @ Novotel Nha Trang novotel-nhatrang.com You’ve got the best Mom in the world, don’t you? Well, the sympathetic folks at Novotel Nha Trang think there’s nothing more she’d like to do than take in a little “cure by the shore” on May 10 — a wellness combo clocking in at VND900,000 net that includes a buffet dinner at The Square restaurant, a 60-minute massage at Vous Spa and a flower. Afterwards, pop by Le Bar for a free cocktail, you good kid you.

La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa la-residence-hue.com You’ve wanted to check out La Residence forever — now, with their summer deal, take 30 percent off of their best unrestricted room rates. You’ll be glad you did as you take in the Perfume River’s gentle curves, and enjoy a real vacation for once.

Sheraton Nha Trang sheraton.com/nhatrang Sheraton Nha Trang has a fun family holiday package booking from now through the end of the month — starting

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at VND2.7 million++ per room/night.

Breakfast for two adults and two under-12 kids is included, when booking a twonight stay.

Pullman Danang pullman-danang.com Picture it: you’re sitting by the beach, watching the waves roll in, and all the delicious creatures of the deep bob along as if they were apples in an apple-bobbing carnival game. But you can’t just go bobbing for seafood; a shark will bite your face off.

Trust the expert skewerers at Azure Beach Lounge — offering up all the local grilled seafood and meats you can eat. And if that weren’t enough, Azure makes a guarantee: no face-biting sharks — VND590,000 net, including beer free flow.

Victoria Hotels Summer Specials victoriahotels.asia Never pay retail for luxury when you can get a discount. Accommodation is now available starting from VND1.2 million per night for a twin share including breakfast.

There’s never been a better time than this summer to start exploring exotic locations

like Sapa, Hoi An and further afield to Luang Prabang in Laos.

Launch Promotion @ Hotel Royal Hoi An mgallery.com To celebrate its grand opening, Hotel Royal Hoi An – MGallery Collection is offering a special promotion with rates starting from just VND2,600,000++ per deluxe room, per night, including daily breakfast for two.

Valid until September 2015, for more info email reservation@hotelroyalhoian.com.

UNTIL FRIDAY 15 Lucky Wildlife Photo Exhibit @ Mango Bay Phu Quoc mangobayphuquoc.com Mango Bay in Phu Quoc is an eco-resort with a message, and the ongoing photo exhibition Lucky Wildlife shows that message in full colour. Including photos of about 40 species of endangered wild animals, the exhibition aims to convey the message of endangered species protection and the related legislative controls to the general public.

Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.

HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com

CUA DAI

$ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com

THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre– programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT AND SPA Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510) 392 7040 victoriahotels.asia

HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 354 5105 domainedetamhai.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 391 4555 life-resorts.com

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/ lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway.

And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

$ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/ destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view.

Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses.com/resorts/ ninh-van-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 382 0999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn

PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727 ninhchubay.com Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.

ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 374 3777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic

Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine.com

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222 princessannam.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY

$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367

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5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains.

Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

SAIGON - PHONG NHA

$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo. com.vn

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged.

Discount rates during rainy season.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: (077) 399 5895 centarahotelsresorts.com

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SALINDA PHU QUOC ISLAND, RESORT AND SPA Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 399 0011 salindaresort.com A five-star luxury beach resort, hotel and spa right on the beach of Phu Quoc island in the peaceful town of Duong To, just 4km from the international airport of Phu Quoc.

SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach.

Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao

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THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 2: LAOS

Filmmaker and long-time Hanoi expat Matt Dworzanczyk recently packed up his life and set off on a solo motorbike trip across the world DAY 9 Another Piece of the Puzzle Bedbugs = no chance of oversleeping = early visit to the Vieng Xai Caves.

Somebody on the road once told me that every sight and every city here in Indochina held a piece of a larger story to be collected. Well, the stories of the caves here, which used to serve as the headquarters of the Pathet Lao leaders, are pretty harrowing.

One airstrike every eight minutes, for nine years. In total, nearly 10 tonnes of explosives per each Lao citizen dropped in the region by the Americans. For nine long years, some 50,000 people used this complex of caves not only as shelter but as a home. There were schools, hospitals, stores and even a theatre in those caves.

Today, not much but stories and tonnes of UXOs… Sad.

DAY 15 Chinatown?

I thought the Chinese (much like the

Vietnamese) stay with their families during New Year. Nope! Apparently they all come to Luang Prabang! Chinese license plates everywhere. There’s not even a single open bed in a 10km radius.

But actually, I don’t mind. Gives me the nudge I needed to finally make use of my tent.

DAY 16 Visa Woke up to a Chinese tourist taking selfies, with a selfie stick, in front of my tent… *rolls eyes* Applied for my Myanmar visa in Luang Prabang — saves me a trip to the embassy in Vientiane, which wasn’t on my way.

Should have it in four days.

DAY 18 Shadow of the Colossus According to legend, today’s region of Phonsavan — or the Plain of Jars — was once inhabited by a race of giants. After a long war against their enemy, their king

created hundreds of stone jars to brew and store rice wine in, to celebrate their victory.

The archeological theories suggest that the jars were likely used in burial practices. Though that theory dates back to the 1930s, even then they weren’t certain.

No-one knows for sure what purpose the jars played and how they came to be. I like the giants story. The place feels magical. The landscapes here are yellow, brown and hilly — different to the tall green mountains I’ve been driving through so far; there are barely any tourists. It’s one of my favorite places in Laos.

DAY 24 No Visa A week later, my Myanmar visa is still four days away from being ready…

DAY 26 On a boat!

Needed a break from driving. Took a day

travel

boat to Pak Beng. Thought I’d drive the bike onto the boat, but 10 guys just picked it up and carried it. Fun!

DAY 35 Women’s Day Me: Hi, It’s been 3 weeks, is my Myanmar visa ready?

Them: No, delayed because of holiday.

Me: Which holiday?

Them: Women’s day.

Me: That’s a week from now..?

Them: Yes. That’s why it’s delayed.

Well, considering that I must leave Lao within 3 days, it’d be nice to have my passport back… just saying.

DAY 38 A Childhood Fantasy A wooden, multi-level treehouse, 50 metres off the ground, in deep jungle — unreal!

Access only by zipline. I can see the height through the floor cracks! Crazy open-air toilet; certainly the wildest place I’ve ever showered! Jungle noises. Pretty sunset. Sadly no gibbons in sight, but still a perfect ending to a fun month in Laos.

For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog

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THE PORTRAIT AN PHUOC

A

n Phuoc is seven years old and belongs to the Cham Minority in Ninh Thuan Province. A greatgreat-grandfather was French — her father, brother and sister have blue eyes as well.

Last month, I decided to visit this area because I had never met the Cham and wanted to know about their culture. A Vietnamese fan on my Facebook fan page wrote to me about her neighbour, which is how I came upon this family.

First they were not so welcoming. I soon learnt that a journalist came before and took a not-great photo of her sister and wrote that she never smiles (which is not true). They want to protect their daughter, and now they don’t allow people to take her photo.

I put my camera in its bag and took the time to listen to their story. When I came back the second day, they invited me to eat. Then they allowed me to take some photos. An Phuoc was smiling. I came back the third day and brought some clothes, a bicycle and a few things for the family, to say thank you for their warm welcome.

I’ve decided to give them part of the proceeds from the photo, and invited them to come to Hoi An to visit me in June. They are looking forward to it — and me, I feel I’ve become a member of their family. They even call me sometimes.

I’ve met many people during my trips, but felt something special with this family. I know that we will stay in touch. A few days ago, the mother told me that the two girls decided to learn English for better communication in the future.

This news made my day!

This photo of An Phuoc’s blue eyes was one of my most liked on Facebook, with 10,000 likes. And even if some Vietnamese say her look is strange or not nice, for me, she is one of the nicest girls I’ve ever met!

Réhahn’s gallery Couleurs d’Asie is at 7 Nguyen Hue, Hoi An. See more of Réhahn’s portraits at facebook.com/ Rehahn.Photography

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Photo provided by Réhahn Photography

BY RÉHAHN

travel THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include a 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.

The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful.

BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 exotravel.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours.

Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/

vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures.

With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for.

Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977 kien@travelsense.asia A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING SERVICE 12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh, District 1, HCMC Call center: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com info.en@chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best prices and reliable service.

If you are looking for great local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.

It has been the #1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.

EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotravel.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

GINKGO VOYAGE 1st Floor, 130 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 3914 3344 ginkgovoyage.com Offers a full range of quality travel services to both domestic and international travellers, including private and customized tours, small group tours, hotels bookings as well as corporate travel / MICE solutions in Vietnam and further. Email info@ ginkgovoyage.com for info.

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure.

com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead the way.

TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659 backofthebiketours.com Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience.

BEENINASIA.COM www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours.

Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate

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Hanoi

BAR STOOL // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // THE ALCHEMIST // FOOD PROMOS // THE THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

hanoi

business

BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS BUSINESS GROUPS ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

CORPORATE SERVICES ENDO 79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manu-

facturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

of the educational system.

All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinasia.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Hanoi Tel: 04 3946 0435 www.bishanoi.com The British International School (BIS) Hanoi, is a selective, independent, co-educational day school. It provides a British style education for an international student body operating from a modern purpose-built campus in the vibrant and cultured city of Hanoi. The National Curriculum for England, International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE) and Advanced Level (A Level) are taught to English speaking students from Pre-School to Year 13. The International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma will, pending IB authorization, be offered from 2016 onwards.

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS)

6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international education for students from Primary up to University Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers.

Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS

Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri New Urban, Tu Liem District, Tel: +84 4 3794 0209 kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

(04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 1460 rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

MARKET RESEARCH

APOLLO

CIMIGO

67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and costeffective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.

142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. For more information email Vietnam@ santaferelo.com.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085

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BAR STOOL THE SIDEWALK HANOI

Y

ou’ll find many odds and ends strewn around The Sidewalk that seem as though they’ve drifted in from the adjacent highway. Then, you realise that everything — from the fluorescent traffic cones to the hubcaps — was placed with intention. Old soda bottles, house plants and flowers along the fences and cement walls; tyres hang in strategic patterns behind the reclaimed wood stage; and light bulbs within abandoned helmets illuminate the long bar.

It is truly an extension of the road, jutting out from Nghi Tam’s dyke and nestled between a car dealership and a repair shop. A year ago, Sidewalk’s large courtyard lot was a functioning carwash.

Scanning the bar on a recent Saturday evening, Lan Huong, Sidewalk’s coowner / partner, points out bits of recycled décor. “I saw a guy rolling one of those down the street and followed him,” she says, motioning towards the bar’s tables, which are repurposed industrial cable spools. “And see those traffic signs over there?” An epic cop chase was involved in their procurement.

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Photos by Harris Spencer

Something for Everyone Huong runs the bar with Luong Van Mao, a Hanoi bar scene veteran and the man behind Mao’s Red Lounge. The two friends got together with the common goal of creating a casual and comfortable outdoor watering hole for the community.

Huong and Mao never want the prices to be prohibitive; they want Sidewalk to be the kind of place that you can frequent without going broke. With beers from VND25,000 and cocktails starting at VND80,000 — plus lots of rotating drink specials — you won’t feel like you’re getting ripped off.

As spring boils into summer, expect to see bia hoi-style all-you-can-drink nights, open mics, daytime BBQs and expanded food offerings ranging from hearty salads to Cuban sandwiches to milkshakes.

Speaking of food, the bar menu at Sidewalk goes above and beyond the typical Hanoi bar’s jerky and nuts. I devoured a heavenly steak sandwich (VND80,000), which contained an entire steak doused in a perfectly spicy and tangy sauce, and will absolutely be returning to eat my way through the rest of the

ever-growing menu.

The delightfully friendly and cool (read: tattooed) bartenders are eager to stir or shake up a cocktail to your liking; the cocktail list is extensive, full of the classics.

The whiskey sour is deliciously smooth; the Martini nice and dirty. The cocktails are simple, and to the point — like everything else at Sidewalk, they’re not trying too hard.

Whether you’re there on a Tuesday or a Saturday, trust that you’ll enjoy yourself. Weeknights, Sidewalk exudes laid-back chill, and weekends, the crowd gets bumping as a rotating roster of DJs spin everything from reggae to hip-hop to swing.

As the name implies, there’s no indoor seating at Sidewalk — a bold move for a Hanoi bar.

“We’re so grateful to people who have been supportive of us no matter how cold or rainy the weather,” Huong explains.

“We’ve been so lucky that people just want to see us stay open.”

“And in the summer?” I asked.

“We’re getting fans.” — Noey Neumark The Sidewalk Hanoi — Bar & Grill is at 199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Hanoi

hanoi atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

old quarter

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

BARS & CLUBS CHEEKY QUARTER

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 8877 Located in the West Lake area, Fraser Suites Hanoi consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four bedrooms, which meet any lifestyle. With a calming and warm interior feel, each apartment features all the latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides peace of mind.

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01679 647254 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

DRAGONFLY

FRASER SUITES HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central location.

SPORTS GARMENTS

SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 score-tech.net Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi.

The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3292 7614 8pm to late

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor.

Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

whole in the Old Quarter is known for its prize-winning bartender and excellent cocktails

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

ROCKSTORE

LATIN BAR 46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0917 245155

LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu.

LE PUB

SPY BAR

LA BOMBA LATINA

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL RESTOBAR 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2104 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802

TEMPLE BAR

NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6675 7908

MOJITO BAR

CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR 19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/mojito.bar. lounge Decked out in wooden panelling and bare brick, this tastefully designed watering

COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

(04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

TET BAR

LATE-NIGHT BAR 2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3050

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight

CAFES

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

JOMA

INTERNATIONAL CAFE 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem joma.biz Housed in a two-storey converted, colonial-era villa, the concept of the third Joma is the same as at its two other cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter, and a great selection of sandwiches, bagels, salads, cakes, ice-cream and tea.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOO SKATESHOP

SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com The downtown store of this well-known chic boutique.

Stocks women’s wear,

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COFFEE CUP D’ALICE

W

hen people ask me where to go for baked desserts — commonly understood to mean cakes, slices, macaroons and general deliciousness — I usually rattle off the same list. Saint Honore for cakes, Nguyen Son Bakery for some kind of mousse-filled thingy and the always reliable Joma for muffins and slices.

But every now and then I find it’s good to go somewhere new where you won’t be recognised while you binge eat your weight in matcha cream cannolis. To that end, D’Alice, quietly tucked away in the French Quarter on Trieu Viet Vuong, is a revelation. The quirky interior design provides a fresh and welcoming space for you to while away the afternoons with a friend, a laptop or a gigantic slice of New York-style cheesecake (VND70,000).

The impressive range of desserts are freshly baked and come served with generous scoops of homemade sorbet or freshly piped meringue. Popular choices include the brownie cheese (a hybrid of brownie and cheesecake for VND35,000),

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Photos by Trung Del

warm salted caramel cookies (VND15,000 each) and a deliciously light coconut panna cotta (VND25,000). You’ll also find yourself tempted by an exotic range of handmade cream cannolis, eclairs and macaroons lining the shelves in the glass fridge on your way in.

Wonderland At first glance, you’ll think you’ve accidentally walked into a ridiculously expensive branch of Laduree or some fancy high tea establishment. And with good reason, because it appears no expense has been spared in furnishing the café. Downstairs, you’ll find a cosy yet spacious working space with plenty of seating at a central wooden table and some plush chairs to snuggle into. Upstairs, is a mosaic of designer chesterfield couches, cute coffee tables and eccentric light fixtures suspended over small groups huddled around plates of red velvet cake (VND79,000) and salted caramel macchiatos (VND60,000).

But don’t let that fool you, because the

prices, albeit a bit more than your standard run-of-the-mill bakery, are extremely fair.

All teas are served with honey, lemon and fresh milk and start at a reasonable VND55,000. At the sweeter end of the spectrum, the signature hot chocolate (VND70,000) comes with optional add-ons such as hazelnut whipped cream and almonds, or a “blowtorched marshmallow” for the ultimate sugar high. For coffee-lovers, we recommend the delicious salted caramel macchiato (VND60,000) or the formidable café latte (VND50,000).

The ambiance is quiet and relaxed, making it an ideal place to catch up with a friend or surf the web on your iThingy.

The staff are professional and polite, each donning crème-coloured aprons that give the place an added air of sophistication.

Admittedly, the prices are a bit more than what you’d pay at Joma or Nguyen Son, but for the occasional (or weekly) splurge, it’s worth every penny. — David Mann D’Alice is at 89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

hanoi leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. Offers both ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.

made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards.

Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards.

Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

THREE TREES

JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

CRAFTS & FURNITURE MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm A slither of a joint serving up the same fare that the lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm

GREEN TANGERINE

FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking

styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639 10am to midnight

LITTLE INDIA

INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1859 littleindianhn@gmail.com

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery.

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout.

Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com

THE KAFE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner.

Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

THE MOOSE AND ROO

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.

Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers.

Clever changing imagery on the walls.

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAFÉ

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253

FITNESS & YOGA STUDIO FIVE

YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515 http://studio5.vn facebook.com/yogastudio5 6am to 8pm An international and professional Yoga Studio providing more than 20 different yoga styles such as: Hatha Yoga, Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga, Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with infrared heater), Power Yoga and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes per day. Bring harmony back into your life — Studio Five is the perfect place to reconnect your mind with your body.

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat. Features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ PROVECHO

area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580

TANDOOR

PAN-INDIAN 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine.

Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

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TOP EATS LA PATISSERIE CHEZ MOI

Photos by Julie Vola

M

y first experience with this bakery happened when I was riding by — the pastry shop’s signage and shining glass window grabbed my eyes. I decided to go inside.

The shop’s simple décor reminded me of coffee shops in Europe. It was an otherworldly experience sitting by the glass door, enjoying flavourful cakes, sipping at my tea and watching life go by outside. The patisserie offers nice views onto its quiet street, in total contrast with the bustling thoroughfares close by.

“Chez Moi means to feel like home,” pastry chef and shop owner Cong Tu Nguyen tells me. His demeanour makes me think of Graham Elliot of US MasterChef. “I want people to feel like that when they are at our shop.

“When I first went to France to study, I didn’t go there to become a pastry chef. But I feel making desserts is more fascinating and suitable for me.”

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Hanoi’s Metropolis of Mousse His fascination with desserts may explain the tasty cakes he makes. His bakery offers a wide range of options with a main course of mousse. Young Vietnamese call Chez Moi ‘Hanoi’s metropolis of mousse’. With a diverse selection, people can easily choose their favourite.

For me, it’s the blueberry mousse. It is soft, fluffy and melts in your mouth. Like any classic mousse, it’s not too sweet and tastes of blueberry. “To make delightful mousse, it’s a must to use fresh fruits,” says Tu. “It’s easily recognisable whether or not you use fresh ingredients for your mousse.”

But my top choice when dropping by Chez Moi is the macaron. Chez Moi’s macaron may be not as good as in some five-star hotels in Hanoi, but that’s not a fair comparison. Not everyone can go into a classy hotel to enjoy macaron at teatime.

The macarons here are delicate and offer a contrast of textures, from the crunchy shell

to the creamy inside — the trickiest part in making these tiny cakes. A lime macaron paired with Earl Grey tea is the perfect treat.

“The macaron is the only cake that I don’t change, even slightly, from the recipe I learnt in France,” says Tu. “I had a bad experience with the macaron when I first opened. I put the macaron on display, then after a few hours, the shell was sweaty and no longer crunchy due to the humidity here in Hanoi. That was a real lesson.”

Besides the macaron and mousse, tiramisu is also among Chez Moi’s top choices. And young gourmands favour the simply ornamented cakes, standing out from most traditional bakeries in Hanoi, which often overuse whipped cream. Together with its friendly service, Chez Moi is a really nice patisserie to bookmark. — Huyen Tran Chez Moi is located at the back of Hang Day Stadium’s Gate 10, Grandstand B, and opposite Ngo 19 Hang Chao, Dong Da, Hanoi. The bakery opens weekdays only

hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)

hoan kiem

THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi.com

L’ESPACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT

PARIS DELI

Bà i

Triệu

Hàng

Hu ế

Phan

Bà

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Q uá n Sứ

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MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late

PHUC TAN

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem

RELAX BAR

HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

ZONE 17

CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

Tiền

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FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am La Fée Verte (or the ‘Green Fairy’) is a metaphor for the decadence of another age, an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The signature bar of the Hotel de l’Opéra Hanoi where, just as in Paris at the dawn of the 20th century, the making of an evening drink a lavish event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge atmosphere, great music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine to bring a genuine sense of occasion to after-dark in the capital.

Hà

CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

Tổ

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WILD WEST THEME BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822

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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

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Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

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HOAN KIEM DISTRICT

BAMBOO BAR 17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem The first bar in what will eventually (hopefully) be a

zone dedicated to bars and restaurants. A pool table, a square bar in the middle of the room and a barbecue until the early hours — there’s quite an atmosphere in this pleasant watering hole.

CAFES CIAO CAFÉ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi.

The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

TWITTER BEANS COFFEE 45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com

CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE

ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES AMERICAN CLUB

EVENT SPACE 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach.

In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down.

The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare.

Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contem-

porary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.

Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA BADIANE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night.

A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.

Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.

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THE ALCHEMIST FEED YOUR SOUL

I

was recently making a bowl of popcorn, one of my favourite snacks, and I caught myself marveling at the alchemical transformation of the grain. What other foods carried out such dramatic metamorphoses, I wondered.

That’s what food does, it transforms itself. It has the ability to take on different properties, to blend and to convert itself to fuel upon consumption. It is from this fuel that we nourish our body and our soul.

Balance and Harmony The Great Work of alchemists is about transforming the chaotic forces of nature into perfectly balanced substances. We are of nature and nature is of us. We are in a symbiotic relationship in which the laws of nature demand balance and harmony.

Paying attention to the foods we consume — beginning with their selection and preparation — affects how the food supports us physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually. We are interconnected with our food, and

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it participates in the co-creation of our existence, as we become the food we eat.

By eating intentionally we can access this transformational potential.

In her book Food as Medicine, Dr. Khalsa states, “Every major ailment has a specific natural food prescription that can reverse its course, [and] that is a great amount of alchemical power!”

The Forces of Nature In their work, alchemists draw upon the archetypal forces of the elements — Earth, Water, Air and Fire — to manipulate and to balance their properties.

To illustrate this principle in relation to the alchemical qualities of food, the Alchemy Lab suggests: — Angry or hyper individuals be fed a diet high in water element foods to calm them down — Lethargic or depressed persons eat fire element foods to energise them — Worldly persons eat mostly air element foods to spiritise them

BY KAREN GAY

— Intellectual or overly religious persons eat a diet of earth element foods to ground them

Conscious Alchemy Whether or not one is eating to harmonise a particular imbalance, it is important to eat mindfully. Dr. Khalsa points out, if you are anxious, depressed or distracted while eating, your body will not assimilate food well and you will not receive the nourishment you need.

With every bite, we have the opportunity to consciously choose how we transform ourselves, how we evolve.

Our goal should be to become our best possible self that is within our potential.

This is the Great Work. Eating is alchemy.

Presently experimenting with brewing my own kombucha (a type of fermented tea), I’m feeling like a true alchemist in my lab, creating the ultimate elixir. I’ll inform you once I’ve concocted it.

Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

hanoi

FOOD PROMOS HANOI

LE BEAULIEU

CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.

Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

The set lunch at Highway 4 on Xuan Dieu

NINETEEN 11

Highway Four Gives You More Lunch or dinner, Highway 4 on Xuan Dieu is running a small bowl and mini lau (steamboat) promotion at just VND99,000 per person. Enjoy either a daily selection of small bowl tapas together with steamed rice and broth of the day or a mini steamboat together with selected Vietnamese appetisers and a fresh salad.

Highway 4 is at 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. The price includes free-flow iced tea and complimentary dessert; subject to a minimum of 2 persons

Dim Sum Mania As always, this month Fortuna Hotel has your eating desires wrapped up.

Gorge yourself on all-youcan-eat dim sum, with all your sumptuous favourites made to order.

Offer applies Monday to Saturday, between 11am and 2pm. Prices start at VND149,000++ for children and VND298,000++ for adults. A la carte dim sum available from VND51,000++ per dish

Mother’s Day Treat your mum and the whole family to a sumptuous Sunday brunch

at Intercon’s Café Du Lac this Mother’s Day. Savour a variety of local and international delicacies in addition to special gifts prepared for all female guests.

Package applies on Mother’s Day, May 10. Prices start at VND1,110,000++ excluding beverages and VND1,700,000++ including a freeflow of beer, wine, soft drink and Martini

High Tea and Fashion What’s more fashionable than high tea? How about a fashion show with your high tea? On May 9, head to Intercon’s Diplomat Lounge to indulge in a chic spread of catwalk-inspired cakes and a selection of premium English teas. Afterwards, enjoy an exclusive fashion show featuring the latest designs of Chula Fashion House and Wephobia.

Entrance starts at VND350,000++ per adult, with high tea served from 3pm to 5pm. Fashion show starts at 3.30pm

The Art of Brunch Chef Raphael and his team at JW Marriott’s signature restaurant, French Grill, present a classic French menu with a modern twist.

Start with the hors-d’oeuvre

buffet including a charcuterie board — a combination of salamis and sausages salted, smoked and cured in-house — and Fins de Claire oysters directly imported from France before tucking into imported cheeses and signature eggs. For mains, enjoy a luxurious medley of lobsters, foie gras, scallops and more.

The Art of Brunch is on Sundays from 12pm to 3pm.

The price is VND1,500,000++ per person, excluding beverages. For reservations please call (04) 3833 5588 or email minh.dang@marriott. com

Spring Arome Festival Indulge your sweet tooth at the Sofitel Legend Metropole’s five-day Spring Arome Festival, guest starring World Champion Pastry Chef Olivier Bajard from Perpignan in France.

From May 6 to May 10, tuck into chocolateflavoured cocktails and a sumptuous chocolate buffet accompanied by jazz performances, fashion shows and a Mother’s Day brunch.

For more information, visit the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Facebook page or email h1555-mk@sofitel.com

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm

PANE E VINO

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.

Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PRESS CLUB

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list.

Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.

SATINE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com

WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR CITIMART

SUPERMARKET Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

DA LOC

WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

HANOI GOURMET

DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com The long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

INTIMEX

VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226

WESTERN CANNED FOODS

GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

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THE THERAPIST A DIFFICULT ADJUSTMENT

Dear Douglas, I have lived in Vietnam for eight months now, coming from the US. Adjusting to the culture here has been difficult for me and I wonder if you have any tips about how I can do it.

I find myself frustrated almost every day at — what seems like — rudeness and inconsideration from Vietnamese people.

They never stand in line, the cashiers rarely say thank you or act politely, they ask me how old I am all the time and always want to know why I am not married. The other day one of the Vietnamese staff where I work, whom I don’t know well, told me I look fat. My Vietnamese staff doesn’t seem to respond when they can see that I am angry, and want them to improve what they are doing. I am getting more frustrated living here. Am I the only one who feels like this?

— Unadjusted Dear Unadjusted, Welcome to Vietnam. I am glad that you realise that you are the one that bears the responsibility of “adjusting”. Recognise that you are not alone. Almost everyone who lives in a culture that is different from their own has to come to some resolution about those differences.

Part of what makes up culture is the “norms” by which it operates. Norms are unquestioned practices that the majority of the culture lives by. They can differ widely and can be the catalyst for many occasions when we feel “offended” or frustrated. It is important to step back to see that “norms” are innocent and are just different ways that people have learned to do the same thing. Often our tendency is to think that our way is the right way, or the better way, which makes other ways of doing things wrong. I encourage you to avoid that kind of thinking if you want to adjust to the place you are living.

Let’s address some of the specific norms that you have named in your letter.

Seeing them differently might lessen the emotional reaction you are having.

Standing in line is something, we from the west, are taught from the first day of school. It is deeply ingrained as a norm. We are offended when someone cuts in line. It is part of what we have come to think of as fairness… waiting your turn. In Vietnam it is one of the most difficult norms to give up. Most of us are shocked when people around us see a gap and put themselves in front of us. It is difficult to let go of our

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This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, talks about the process of adjusting to Vietnamese culture “rightness” and see the method of crowding in as an acceptable norm. In reality, it is only a different system, which accomplishes the same result at the end of the day. I encourage you to learn the subtleties of that system.

Questions or comments about age, marital status and weight are sensitive to most westerners. So, part of adjusting is realising the relevance they have in Vietnamese culture. Knowing a person’s age, in Vietnam, gives information as to how they are addressed. Em, Chi, Anh, and Ba are used based on a person’s age relative to yours.

Marriage is an important part of Vietnamese culture, and the frequency of the question creates a social pressure that influences Vietnamese young people to marry. Conforming to these norms is so common that it is confusing for many Vietnamese people to meet single people above the age of 30, and leads to questions that can feel uncomfortable. A culture based on tradition has norms built in that create a pressure to conform.

It is similar when it comes to statements about someone’s appearance. It is not meant to offend, but rather to reflect a social attitude that values conforming to “norms”.

When we use the term “collectivist culture”

it speaks to the ways that boundaries are different between what is expected by the family and community from that of an “individualistic” society.

Expressing anger is another difference to realise here in Vietnam. For most of us raised in western cultures, getting angry increases our power in the situation, even if temporarily. In Vietnam, expressing anger is frowned upon. Moderating one’s emotions is part of the norm that allows a collectivist mindset to work. When someone loses control of their emotions — expressing them intensely — they lose credibility rather than gaining power. Often the response is the opposite of what we might be used to — less cooperation, rather than more.

There are many other examples of cultural norms that differ and can create confusion, frustration and judgments. It is important to learn how to not take things personally and to continue to be open to differences. Whether we agree or not, the responsibility falls on those of us who have come from another place to live in Vietnam.

Enjoy it all, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

tay ho

ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES

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BAR & GRILL No. 20, Lane 50/59/17, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917 taytap.com Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with beer and cider on tap, this recently relocated venue next to Da Paolo mixes contemporary international comfort food on the first floor with live music and an often raucous atmosphere. Amazing West Lake views from their top floor terrace.

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ARTS WORK ROOM FOUR

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

BARS & CLUBS 88 LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029.

88group.vn 5pm to late A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele.

Well worth a visit.

HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170 hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from

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SIDEWALK HANOI

DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE 199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty.

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delivery from nearby favorites. Non-smoking, unpretentious, dog-friendly.

Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

MADAKE

CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665 or 0984 002181 With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal for those seeking a fusion of Western and Eastern cuisine. Famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, the ambient Asianstyle décor, weekend DJ nights and general atmosphere makes Madake a popular West Lake go-to joint.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho Open daily from 2pm.

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake.

Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or

THE REPUBLIC

MODERN SPORTS BAR 7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116 republic.vn A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouthwatering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

BOOK SHOPS WEEKEND BOOKWORM

CHILDREN’S & VIETNAM-THEMED BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. While its main store is located in Chau Long, sharing space with Hanoi Cooking Centre, the second edition in Tay Ho specialises in children’s and Vietnamese themed books, as well as selling bao cap (Subsidy Era) furniture and a range of souvenirs and gifts. Open weekends only.

CAFES COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com

hanoi 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KUB CAFE

BIKING CAFE so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho kub.vn Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole bringing that’s become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.

Does good on-the-table bia hoi and runs biking events.

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.

Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ

ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music.

Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CAFÉ / TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment. Eclectic? Not a chance!

CLOTHING GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.

Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

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L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam.com Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

(Bamboo) and First (balance) bicycles and cycling equipment. Also rent bicycles (city, MTB or touring) and organise guided bicycle tours under the name Urban Discovery, with a 25-year experienced European mechanic as part of the team.

Closed Mondays.

COOKING CLASSES

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HIDDEN HANOI

COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE 68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BETTERWORLD

GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS DON’S TAY HO

BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE)

CYCLING COLLECTIVE 29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156 thbc.vn A place for bicycle lovers, THBC is the official supplier of ORBEA, DEDA, MEKONG

AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

COUSINS

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098 A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere.

Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula.

DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic.

Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, MiddleEastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

DON’S TAY HO

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the

work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger.

Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.

Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia.com Daily 11am to 11pm A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL

CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi.

Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams

and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our

INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn.vn Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

J.A.F.A.

INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Set inside a newly renovated house with a large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.

LA BICICLETA

BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays.

NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread

and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it.

SAINT HONORE

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da

THE CURRY BAR

housekeeping, safety, basic 1st Aid, courses for external maids and household management for Vietnamese wives of foreigners.

FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS

TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

HANOI CLUB

COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com

HANOI OIS

32 Tay Ho, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 0033 Serving up an intriguing mix of Japanese, Thai and Indian curries, this small yet homely restaurant and beer drinking haunt has garnished a strong following. And why not? What works better than beer and curry?

hanoinetball@gmail.com Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed ability, mixed gender club for adults wanting to enjoy team sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The club plays every Tuesday from 6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for more information

THE PIE SHOP

VIETCLIMB

TAKEAWAY PIES 2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 1507 thepieshophanoi@gmail.com Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style savoury pies and rolls. Available in three convenient sizes (mini, regular and large). Enjoy them hot as a takeaway, or frozen to keep for later.

ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE

VEGETARIAN / VEGAN 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam.com 8.30am to 8pm A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state — local, fresh, seasonal and organic.

EXPAT SERVIES MAID IN VIETNAM

HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3112 maidinvietnam.com Offering a licensed hire service for trained domestic and office housemaids, cooks and nannies.

Courses include health checks,

CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS

ANNAM GOURMET

GROCERIES / DELI First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

KITCHEN ART

KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770

kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

L'S PLACE

GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

NATURALLY VIETNAM

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for expats and Vietnamese.

PUNTO ITALIA

COFFEE MACHINES 62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

THE OASIS

HOLISTIC HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER karen@a-roamingbodyworker. com a-roamingbodyworker.com Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available.

MEDICAL & DENTAL INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style checkups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam.

The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS

ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case.

Free delivery.

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

THE WAREHOUSE

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET

WINE RETAILER 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart. com.vn

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

hanoi

MEDICAL BUFF WORLD NO TOBACCO DAY 2015

S

unday, May 31 is World No Tobacco Day 2015 — and, while the main objective of the day is stopping the illicit trade of tobacco products, it can also serve as a time to consider quitting smoking.

Nicotine dependence — smoking — is an addiction to tobacco products caused by the drug nicotine. Cigarette, cigar and pipe smoke contains thousands of chemicals, including nicotine. Nicotine produces physical and mood-altering effects in your brain that are temporarily pleasing. These effects lead to dependence.

Nicotine is the chemical in tobacco that keeps you smoking. It can be as addictive as cocaine. It increases the release of brain chemicals called neurotransmitters, which help regulate mood and behavior. One of these neurotransmitters is dopamine, which makes you feel good. Getting that dopamine boost is part of the process of addiction.

To overcome your dependence on tobacco, you need to deal with the behaviours and routines that you associate with smoking.

Your Health: The Other 4,799 Substances!

While it’s the nicotine in tobacco that keeps you hooked, the toxic effects come mainly from other substances in tobacco.

Tobacco smoke contains more than 60 known cancer-causing chemicals and more

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than 4,800 other harmful substances. The health problems are real and numerous: — Lung cancer risk increases dramatically as well as emphysema and chronic bronchitis.

— Heart and circulatory system problems: smoking increases your risk of dying of cardiovascular disease, including heart attack and stroke. Smoking 15 cigarettes a day doubles your heart attack risk.

— Smoking is a major cause of cancers of the esophagus, larynx, throat and mouth, and also related to cancer of the bladder, pancreas, kidney, cervix and stomach.

— Skin structure changes causing premature aging and wrinkles.

— Increased infertility and impotence: smoking increases the risk of infertility in women and the chance of impotence in men.

— Pregnancy and newborn complications: mothers who smoke while pregnant face a higher risk of miscarriage, preterm delivery, decreased birth weight and sudden infant death syndrome (SIDS) in their newborn.

— Secondhand smoke: spouses and partners of smokers have a higher risk of lung cancer and heart disease, compared with people who don’t live with a smoker.

If you smoke, your children will be more prone to asthma and ear infections.

BY DR. JONATHAN HALEVY

Halt the Habit: Always Hope!

Are you getting withdrawal cravings, irritability and anxiety? Good news — medications and counseling both work. Medications help you cope with withdrawal symptoms, especially in the first few weeks when the cravings are strongest; while behavioural treatments help you develop the skills you need to stay away from tobacco over the long run. The more time you spend with a counselor (also available at Family Medical Practice), the better your treatment results will be.

Irrespective of age, your health will benefit if you stop smoking. Just 20 minutes after your last cigarette, your heart rate goes down. 12 hours later, levels of carbon monoxide — a toxic gas — in your blood return to normal.

Your lung function improves and your circulation starts to get better within three months. After a year, your risk of having a heart attack drops by half. And after five to 15 years, your stroke risk will be the same as that of a nonsmoker.

Dr. Jonathan Halevy is a paediatrician at the Ho Chi Minh City clinic. For more medical advice visit Family Medical Practice, vietnammedicalpractice.com or go to 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Hanoi; Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City; 50-52 Nguyen Van Linh, Danang

hanoi to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus.

Reservations recommended.

ba dinh

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS BARBETTA

ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB 18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh facebook.com/vaulthanoi The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind Mao’s Red Lounge and The Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime decadence sits in the gap between The Old Quarter and West Lake, bringing in a range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition to the scene.

BOOKWORM

BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre.

With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

Đà n

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

COURTYARD CAFE 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh 9am to 5.30pm. Open every day Relax in a leafy courtyard, air-con dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the allday breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea.

MANZI

ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES GOETHE INSTITUT

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

Đinh T iên H o àn g

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boo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.

Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

n Yê

BA DINH DISTRICT

Trần Nhân Tông

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the Hanoi's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.

Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

FOODSHOP 45

MING PALACE

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bam-

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 10am to midnight

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space.

It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.

Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

FITNESS & YOGA N SHAPE FITNESS

MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats.

Also a 24-hour emergency service.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 155

hanoi

BOOK BUFF CAPTURING THE CITY

This month, Bookworm’s Truong takes a look at Hanoi on the printed page

W

e can always tell how good a photographic book about Hanoi or other parts of the country is by gauging its appeal on Vietnamese readers.

Two recently published books have triumphed in the most critical test we could give them. We offered 50 Hanoians from different walks of life the opportunity to have a book on loan for a day or two. Only one copy of each book was used, and at the end of the trial their dog-eared, wellthumbed pages attested to the mostly fivestar approval ratings.

Ha Noi Capital City This hefty, coffee table-sized 300-pager — with more than 600 high-quality images — comes with the seal of the Goethe-Institut, with backing from a host of German sponsors. Its text is in Vietnamese, English and German, and editor Michael Waibel has used the photographs, essays and design skills of a host of talented Vietnamese and expats.

There are six sections, ranging from aerial views of the city, change over time, architecture and housing, people of the city, urban transport and the soul of the city. The city is considered as a whole entity, without preference for any particular quarter.

Mostly the text escapes the triteness or cuteness that too often occurs when expats have their say, and does not founder on suppositions or emotive banalities.

It’s a very rare book, a must-have. With future updates, it should remain at the top of the heap.

Tourists have only one complaint: it’s too heavy to carry home!

Vietnam — Twenty-Five Years Documenting a Changing Country If you were the child of a very famous

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parent, you’d probably think about changing your name if you couldn’t live up to the golden aura that emanates from him or her.

Catherine Karnow doesn’t have to worry.

Her photographic skills have allowed her to live up to her famous patronym.

Her father, Stanley Karnow, wrote what is considered to be the definitive book on the French and American conflicts in Vietnam last century. The mini-series based on it is history at its best.

Catherine’s Vietnamese photography book is more a fascinating documentary of her travels into Vietnam, beginning in 1990 when she first came with her father.

This opened the doors of photographic and experiential opportunity to her.

She was invited by General Giap to accompany him on his first return to the battlefields of Dien Bien Phu, 30 years after the struggle he masterminded, which put him in the upper echelons of international military history.

But Catherine’s photographic documentation doesn’t stop with past history, and her most recent prints show her compassionate understanding of the country.

Prints from the book were exhibited last month at Art Vietnam, and the response from Vietnamese viewers was phenomenal.

One featured photo is of a woman on the Reunification Express train, which was used on the cover of the 2007 edition of Lonely Planet Vietnam.

Bajo La Gloriosa Bandera Del Partido On a different tip, what is now a rare item has come into our possession. It’s a Vietnamese publication aimed at a Cuban audience, covering Vietnamese history from the time of the 1858 French Invasion up to

Liberation in 1975, and the expulsar a los Yanquis.

It highlights a time when, besides Cuba, Vietnam’s greatest allies were the USSR, East Germany, Laos, Cambodia, Mongolia, Poland, Czechoslovakia and North Korea.

We assume that this brilliantly informative book was also published for distribution in their languages.

It’s a book for connoisseur collectors of Vietnamese history.

Old Saigon — The Color Of Nostalgia Architect and artist Trong Lee is in love with Saigon, and to celebrate he has published the most delightful book of fanciful and factual architectural buildings and places in Saigon.

His first emphasis is on century-old, symbolic buildings in the city, and the drawings will appeal to aficionados of the Art Nouveau/Aubrey Beardsley-style prints.

The second section is a portrait of street architecture in old town Saigon in 1969, with pen-and-ink and watercolour drawings that are reminiscent of Parisian cityscapes for sale as you stroll along the Seine.

Lee is fascinated, too, with old modes of city travel, and combines the two types of drawing to portray canal boats through to late 1960s motorised transport.

A section of drawings of historical advertisements rounds off the book.

The first few pages are devoted to exquisitely drawn and coloured floor tiles, and these alone are worth the price of admission.

Vietnamese readers also gave this book both thumbs up!

For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com

hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com

elsewhere

A DONG PHOTO CO

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION

RECREATION KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL

BARS & CLUBS CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

VUVUZELA

MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm

FRENCH GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com/frenchgrill Every day 6pm to 11pm With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 10am to midnight

CAFES KOTO ON VAN MIEU

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.

Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HAM HANH

ARTSY CAFE 170 Doi Can, Dong Da The physical representation of arts, film and music collective, The Onion Cellar, this cafe with multiple areas is as left field as the people who created it.

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space.

It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday

SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn

11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

rant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restau-

ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK

ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

NGUYEN CAU

ICE SKATING Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

X-FACTORY LASER TAG

HI-TECH USA

LASER TAG 77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com

DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261

PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL & DENTAL POTS ‘N PANS

SWIMMING POOL Landmark 72 Tower, Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com

128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732

FRENCH HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983 011081

VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

EAT ASAHI SUSHI

ELECTRONICS

LA VERTICALE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

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Ho Chi Minh City business buff // body and temple // coffee cup // top eats // the empty wok // student eye // a world of good

Photo by Julie Vola

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HCMC

business

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES / EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS / RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS ACCOUNTING & AUDITING DENTSU VIETNAM PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com

ADVERTISING & MKTG BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com

COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN 16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com

AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com

led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.

PHIBIOUS 7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 3377 phibious.com An independent, creative–

RIVER ORCHID 10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 2538

riverorchid.com

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM 4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn

GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES 4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41

A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org

38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com

XAGE CONSULTANCY

CONCETTI

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Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 7305 0905 prism.com.vn

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562. amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com

HCMC CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com

ENDO 406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

EVENT MANAGEMENT CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS Tel: 0906 761190 centerpiece-vn.com info@centerpiece-vn.com Centerpiece is an independent event planning company run by expatriates that can plan any event from private parties, to corporate events to weddings.

EPICURE PARTY & EVENT CATERERS 30, Street 40, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6260 7172 epicure.com.vn Epicure is a fresh, modern and creative corporate and private event catering company that upholds traditional service values. The entire team constantly aims to provide superb food made only from the finest, sustainably sourced ingredients.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD 268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to make any kind of event a success.

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237

HAPPY HOUSE

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE 12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com

JONES LANG LASALLE 26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam.

Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam

CREATION International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968 cushmanwakefield.vn

EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.

Enquiries via their website are welcome.

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Viet-

nam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHO USE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor, Continental Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, D1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.

Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IGLOBALASSIST Iglobalassist.com james.pruss@aol.com

SNAP

LIBERTY INSURANCE

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE 49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661 baoviet.com.vn

IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinasia.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

For emergencies call 0903 732365

PRUDENTIAL 25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367 ten-pac.com A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

(08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

CITYSMART Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3526 8833 7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.

Tel: (08) 7300 7257 info@eishcmc.com www.eishcmc.com Located in the heart of Thao Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum.

EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.

Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:

ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2 Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc info@etonhouse.vn Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-Think-Learn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life.

Energized Engaged Empowered

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com The most established international school in HCMC, ISHCMC recently celebrated 20 years of success. A fully accredited IB World School, authorised to teach all three programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully accredited by both the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC), two of the most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different nationalities.

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HCMC

BUSINESS BUFF THE GREAT SQUANDERERS

T

his column often looks at people with immense wealth and how they got it, but it’s equally important to keep money once you get it. Whether inherited, won, earned through sports or hard corporate work, these people at one point had a fortune and then in spectacular fashion lost it all.

Pyramid Schemes With a fleet of jets and a collection of yachts, Texas-born billionaire Allan Stanford exuded the wealthy lifestyle. At his peak he was listed as one of the richest men in America, with an estimated worth of US$2.2 billion. But in 2009, Stanford was convicted of offering fraudulent highinterest certificates of deposit from his offshore bank in Antigua, and using client funds to feed his lavish lifestyle. More than 20,000 investors have yet to see a return on their money. Stanford is serving a term of 110 years for his role in the US$7 billion dollar international Ponzi scheme.

Hate to Burst Your Bubble In 2008, Séan Quinn was known as Ireland’s richest man with a net worth of US$6 billion dollars. In 2007, Quinn sunk a good part of his personal fortune into Anglo Irish Bank, an aggressive lender to Ireland’s construction barons. Within just a few months of Quinn’s investment the bank suffered massive losses, as the country’s

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property bubble finally burst. Ireland nationalised the bank a year later to prevent further collapse, but in doing so it wiped out Quinn’s investment of US$2.8 billion dollars.

The new bank, IRBC, then seized ownership of his companies, including the Quinn Group, and forced him and his family off the board, leaving the family with less than US$15,000 in cash in three bank accounts.

The Bill Gates of Bankruptcy Masayoshi Son lost a whopping US$70 billion of his net worth, but remains the second-richest person in Japan. In 1981, Son, dubbed ‘The Bill Gates of Japan’, started Softbank, which became Japan’s largest telecommunications and internet corporation. During the dotcom boom, Softbank was valued at US$180 billion dollars, and Son’s net worth was US$78 billion. During the internet crash of 2004, Softbank’s stock went down 98 percent and Son lost the largest amount of money ever by an individual in history. Undeterred, Son and Softbank bounced back a few years later.

Not the World’s Richest Man Brazilian born Eike Batista was once the world’s eighth-richest man. He would often boast that one day he would be the richest person on the planet. Instead, he lost most of his US$33 billion fortune in 16 months when OGX, the oil exploration company he controlled, went bankrupt.

BY SHANE DILLON

Batista built a super-port five hours north of Rio De Janerio, bought trucking companies and built oil tankers in anticipation of drilling OCX’s supposedly oil rich fields. However, the amount of oil in the company’s land reserves proved to be exaggerated, and Batista’s promises to investors were nothing more than hot air.

Four out of five oil fields he owned have since been abandoned.

Sibling Rivalry In the 10 years after their father’s death, billionaires Anil and Mukesh waged war against each other. Mukesh, the richest man in India, owns telecommunications giant Reliance Industries. His brother Anil owns Reliance Communications, which boasts over 150 million cellphone subscribers, millions of miles of fiber-optic cable, and tens of thousands of cell phone towers.

In 2013, the brothers took steps to merge the two companies and thaw relations between them. Within minutes of that announcement, stock in the two companies immediately rose, but it still wasn’t enough to save them from losing billions during the rupee crash of May 2013. Mukesh lost US$5.6 billion dollars of his personal wealth within four months. His brother, Anil, lost US$1.3 billion dollars during the same period.

Shane has yet to make a fortune he can squander. He can be contacted at shanedillon@ bluecross.com.vn

HCMC CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon.

For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944 kidsclubsaigon.com Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five.

Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP) 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788 admissions@issp.edu.vn Set in a purpose-built campus, International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 years. With 90 percent of their teachers having master’s degrees, they are able to promise a vigorous American curriculum while including specialist subjects such as music, art, sport and languages.

LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 lgkids.vn

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance.edu.vn Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:

(08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market.

Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS ILA VIETNAM 146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 tas.edu.vn

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com

VAS

VLS SAIGON

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278 vas.edu.vn

INTERIOR DESIGN PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND REMODELING Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk) Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new colour in the living room?

Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP

BAKER & MCKENZIE

27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup. co.uk

12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com

FRASERS LAW COMPANY

MEKONG RESEARCH

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

TNS VIETNAM

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com

MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com

MANAGEMENT TRAINING EMBERS ASIA 80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

NIELSEN

58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES DRAGON IMAGES Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective public relations campaigns.

Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions.

Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, mar-

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 163

HCMC

BODY

T

he myth of calories in versus calories out just doesn’t want to die! Calories are a part of the picture but the conventional weight loss idea puts way too much emphasis on the importance of energy — i.e. calories.

So often I do assessments on people’s lifestyle and nutrition, and find that they are vitamin and mineral deficient — their body is in a state of crisis, they are loaded with toxins and they have grinded their metabolisms down. We should be focusing on consuming a nutrient-rich diet and forget about counting calories — if your body is healthy and in balance you will naturally feel full and not over-consume.

The Math The calorie theory states that one pound of fat contains 3,500kcal of energy. Therefore, to lose a pound of fat you simply need to eat 3,500 fewer calories than your body needs to lose 1 pound of fat. Full stop.

But calories are not an exact number.

These are general values expressed across entire food groups.

More importantly, human basal metabolic rates (calorie expenditures) are all predictions. The only way to measure exact BMR is with a gas analysis machine. To use a weight and height formula to accurately estimate the energy output of a humans cell is never going to be exact. Two people could be the same height and weight, but have a totally different composition and extremely

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AND

TEMPLE

CALL FOR A RE-COUNT

different metabolisms.

The whole premise of counting calories is to reduce consumption by a few hundred calories to lose weight. What if the formula produces a number that is a few hundred calories incorrect?

The Biology Lets forget about these glaring issues regarding energy values, and look at how the body responds to a reduced calorie intake. Your body doesn’t know that you have read a diet book. It thinks you have been stranded in a remote area and have been forced into a life-threatening situation, and it tries to look after you — to survive.

Your body is in survival mode when you work in a calorie deficit, so it needs to ‘dump’ the part of you that uses the most energy.

This is the lean muscle. Your body hangs on to the fat both because it uses up less energy, and because it is going to be a valuable reserve if you are ‘stranded’ for a long time.

Our bodies are programmed for survival.

Weight can reduce quite rapidly to start with, but then our bodies adjust to the food deprivation and having fewer calories. We then lose lean muscle, store fat and slow our metabolism down dramatically. Our body’s ability to survive will always win through.

Francis Benedict, in 1917, was the first person credited for conducting calorie deficit experiments. Researchers have shown that in the Francis Benedict study, and every subsequent study where a calorie deficit has been created in a human, the outcome

BY PHIL KELLY

has been “some weight loss, accompanied by immense hunger and tiredness with an overwhelming desire to want to eat more and do less”.

There’s also 1945’s Minnesota Starvation Experiment — the definitive calorie-deficit study. “36 men were put on a 1,500 to 1,600 calorie a day diet with a moderate walk scheduled each day,” says Zoe Harcombe, one of the UK’s leading dieticians, and an expert in this subject.

“They lost a fraction of the weight that the 3,500 formula would have predicted.

The men turned into hungry, miserable, food-obsessed shadows of their former selves. Within six months, researchers found it increasingly difficult to induce any further weight loss, even dropping calorie intake to around 1,000 calories a day. Some men started regaining at a calorie level that should have seen them continuing to lose weight. Within weeks of the conclusion of the experiment, the men had regained all weight loss, plus about 10 percent.”

The fact is there is almost a century’s worth of crushing evidence that the calorie theory doesn’t work. But our society holds onto it for dear life. The mantra of “do more, eat less” for weight loss seems to be only making society fatter. It’s time for a recount — and more crucially, to start counting more important dietary elements.

Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC keting & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

office moves and pet relocations.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

CROWN RELOCATIONS

1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com

2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and Japanese candidates with experience studying abroad or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for many types of business.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo.com for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 www.asiantigers-mobility. com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08) 3742 5678 enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apart-

ments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

AIRLINES AIR ASIA www.airasia.com

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

SPORTS GARMENTS

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a

SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588 score-tech.net Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/ vn

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines. com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerair.com

VIETJETAIR www.vietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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HCMC

COFFEE CUP STARTUP CAFÉ

A

s this is our “Favourite Things” issue, I thought that the quaint yet delightful Startup Café should go in here. I’ve been frequenting the Dinh Tien Hoang branch since it was “Startup Coffee”, and I have a strange yet intense attraction to it.

Since the rebranding, Mr. Startup on the logo has gone from a cash-grabbing huckster — who must be zonked out of his mind on at least two-and-a-half mochaccinos — to a more sedate, bowtiewearing, less-copyright-infringing strawsipper. Gone is the Starbucksian wreath in the backdrop, and some of the dog-eared How to Win Friends and Influence Peopletype books have been retired in favour of café shelf-calibre knickknacks.

But it’s not the rebranding that

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Photos by Francis Xavier

tipped me off that Startup was getting serious. It’s the level of the latté making, which went from a Vietnamese café C to a straight-up B+, with clever rosette patterns changing depending on the barista, usually bang-on with foam consistency — for a mere VND29,000. No longer do they stick in the little coffee stirring straw to the takeaway cup’s sippy hole, although the cheap lids still tend to crumble and leak coffee. My advice, jetsetters: get a bag.

ILOVESTARTUP While the Wi-Fi passwords at most cafés remain comically simple to hack — try their street address or some sort of lame muffin come-on — Startup’s password is an expression of love:

ilovestartup. And they don’t have to pull teeth to elicit this. Just check their bulletin board.

Funny drawings of the Startup guy vie with cute love letters; the younger Vietnamese clientele have plenty of time on their hands. I do a bit of writing at the Dinh Tien Hoang branch, and sometimes get chatted up across the new community table. But mostly it’s iPads, small talk and blended drinks as far as the eye can see.

The music is often terrible, the cupcakes are too sweet. But if you’re looking for that je-ne-sais-quoi that all comfortable places have, Startup’s got you covered. — Ed Weinberg My home away from home is at 15 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, HCMC — facebook.com/ STARTUPCOFFEE.VN

HCMC

downtown

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

D

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com

BEER REPUBLIC

MODERN BEER HALL 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 0945 858034 facebook.com/BeerRepublic

BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202. bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

BROMA, NOT A BAR

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments.

A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town.

Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.

CARMEN

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 0908 033982

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.vn

GAME ON

SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.

HARD ROCK CAFE

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn

ICE BLUE

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese

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AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon.com If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined.

Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

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FUSE

fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

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TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

EXPAT / SPORTS BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2853 Subtle lighting, a pleasant ambience, a pool table and darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel of a drinking man's pub. A place to have fun, drink beer or spirits and get in with the party mood. Known for its 15 shooter challenge.

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LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON

FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR 9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0396 lerendezvousdesaigon.com With such a meaningful name - the meeting point - this wine bistro boasts a relaxed, friendly ambience, perfect for unwinding with an after work drink or to enjoy time with friends.

Reasonably priced, has a sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive old and new world wine list.

LEVEL 23 WINE BAR

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

MAY RESTAURANT & BAR

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 mayrestaurant.com.vn

MARTINI BAR LOUNGE BAR 3rd Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Martinis with various combinations of premium spirits and other fresh flavours figure prominently on the drink menu at this classic Indochine-styled bar, all put together by Caravelle’s award-winning mixologists.

OMG!

FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

O’BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

PACHARAN

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6024 pacharansaigon.com Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PARK LOUNGE

LOUNGE BAR & CAFE Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com An elegant, ground floor

venue in The Hyatt, perfect for social and business gatherings. As well as nightly live music, serves afternoon tea staples including warm scones with generous portions of homemade jam and clotted cream.

PHATTY’S

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON RANGER

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559 facebook.com/saigonranger Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art.

Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR

LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR 9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com This iconic bar is a great

place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends.

Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.

SHRINE BAR

STYLISH LOUNGE BAR 61 Ton Thap Thiet, Q1 shrinebarsaigon.com Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere.

Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere.

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn

THE CUBE BAR

HIP RESTOBAR 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798 facebook.com/thecubesaigon A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

THE OBSERVATORY BAR, ART & DJ SPACE 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat)

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TOP EATS LE TERROIR

T

he problem with French food is that it’s just so good. If you’re cutting out carbs or restricting fats, I recommend you avoid this country’s cuisine altogether. On the other hand, what’s life without the good bits?

Le Terroir easily qualifies as a good bit.

It’s another French-style eatery attempting to give the Refineries and Papagayos a run for their money, by serving up classic French food in a relaxed, speakeasy-ish atmosphere. Open since February, its unassuming frontage is tucked away on Thai Van Lung, but it’s very much in the heart of Saigon’s restaurant district.

When you get there you’re likely to meet restaurateur Eric Van Latenstein (just call him Eric), an ex-professional golfer — and still a daily player — who’ll happily show you around his two-storey bistro. Bathed in natural light, its rustic but comfortable modern furniture and classic timber finishes quickly put you at ease, transporting you away from the hustle of Saigon’s streets.

Excited that we were visiting his new enterprise — he also runs two wine bars — Eric made me feel right at home. Sipping

Photos by Kyle Phanroy

French sémillon at the long bar as I waited for photographer Kyle to arrive, I definitely had some ‘I could be happy here’ vibes going on.

No Non-sens When I hear ‘French restaurant’, like a lot of people, I still get worried that it might be some kind of intimidating cultural experience. Is my palate qualified enough to eat here?

On that note you can relax, because Le Terroir doesn’t pretend to be five-star, and nor does it need to be. The bistro-style food is accomplished and delicious, and the surroundings are top notch — but it’s also down to earth and unpretentious.

These are classic French dishes done very very well. From the bar menu I couldn’t resist trying both the croque monsieur (VND155,000) in all its cheese, ham and béchamel-sauced glory, next to the yummy gratinated onion soup (VND105,000), in what must have been an unconscious attempt to forget that it was 38 degrees outside. I followed that up with the bouchée à la reine duo (VND105,000), a signature

item Eric insisted we try. Moving onto the mains I got trigger happy, because out came the duck salad (VND145,000) and the filet mignon pork (VND195,000). The grain mustard sauce on this almost had me dipping everything I owned into it, and was beautifully matched with another glass of that smooth sémillon.

Satisfied that our work was done, we were ready to say our thank you’s and go home. Not on Eric’s watch. Out came one of the best chocolate mousses (VND85,000) I’ve ever had. If you only have time for one thing, this mousse might just be it.

This was expertly paired with the Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a gem from Eric’s cellar.

Full to the brim, a complimentary espresso was in order — a freebie Eric says is part and parcel of the way he likes to do things. So just to get this straight: he has a great restaurant, owns a huge room full of wine, gives out free coffee, and loves golf?

I may have just met my new best friend. — Jon Aspin Le Terroir is at 30 Thai Van Lung, Q1, HCMC

HCMC

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HCMC Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

THE ORIENT

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook.com/vespersaigon A sophisticated yet downto-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

VINYL BAR

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a

backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

BASKIN ROBBINS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn

CASBAH WINE BAR 38

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

WONDER BAR

HOSTESS BAR 54 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0923 337070 Decked out in white, a huge rectangular bar takes up the main space making this the perfect venue for quite literally propping up the bar. Bar games and select-your-own music are part of the deal.

XU

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BACH DANG

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707

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MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7285 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

FANNY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704 saigongivral.com

GOODY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES

CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 guanabanasmoothies.com An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment

adds to the theme.

HÄAGEN-DAZS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

MAGONN THE CAFE 109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9672 magonn.vn Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything from drinks to bites. Coming with a crowd? The attic is a quaint little spot to fit a cozy gathering.

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

PLANTRIP CHA

TEA ROOM 8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung Street, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe.com.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse

offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection.

Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows.

The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

DEBENHAMS

ADULT & CHILDREN’S WEAR Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7592

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

CASUAL & EVENING WEAR 85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004 Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs.

The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags.

Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755

ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA

BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm

L’USINE

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

SONG

ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com

T&V TAILOR

TAILORS 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com

VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349

HCMC vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com

BOCONCEPT

DANISH FURNITURE 68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn

DIABOLO

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm

EM EM

SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm

LUXURY FURNITURE IN VIETNAM Tel: 0909 042765 luxury-furniture-vietnam. com A complete and exclusive range of furniture produced by high-end furniture producers in Vietnam and also in Europe (Austria, Denmark, Germany, Italy, France).

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org

NGUYEN FRERES

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.

(08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 69 Dong Khoi, Q1

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 www.nhaxinh.com

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631

AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.

Excellent delivery service.

ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant. com Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and

mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 barbecuegarden.com

BASILICO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon

BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

BLACK CAT

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

BLANCHY STREET

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city.

All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink

BUN CHA HA NOI

BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CENTRAL PARC BANH MI 7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New Yorkthemed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels. Excellent delivery service.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas.

Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.

Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)

3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

KABIN

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge

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HCMC

THE EMPTY WOK SOUR FISH SOUP

BY RICCHA ARORA

A food blogger and self-styled chef, this month Riccha Arora returns to one of those dishes synonymous with Vietnam

T

ranslating to ‘sour fish soup’, canh chua ca hails from the Mekong Delta and is one of those trademark southern Vietnamese dishes. It is has a perfect balance of sweetness and sourness — from the crushed pineapple and the tamarind.

The texture of the soup comes from the fresh herbs, and vegetables like okra and elephant ear stem.

A perfectly balanced treat of sweetness, sourness and spice, it’s a fantastic introduction to the best of Vietnamese cuisine.

Ingredients 500g catfish steak (I used basa) 1 pinch of salt, pepper and chilli powder 2 tbsp garlic, minced 1 red chilli pepper, sliced 1 small tomato, chopped 7 cups of water 3 tbsp sugar 4 tbsp fish sauce 1/4 pineapple, thinly sliced

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Photo by Kyle Phanroy

1-2 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges 6 pieces of okra, diagonally sliced 1 elephant ear stem, diagonally sliced 50g bean sprouts 1 bunch of rice paddy herbs, chopped 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1-2 sprigs of sawtooth herb and spring onion 2 tbsp tamarind pulp

Preparation Season the catfish steaks with the pinches of salt, black pepper and chilli powder.

Gently rub these spices on both sides of the fish.

Then take a deep bowl and place it on a medium flame, adding 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. Next, add 1 tablespoon of minced garlic and chopped tomatoes, and sauté for 1 minute. This will give a nice colour to the broth. Then add 6 cups of water and bring to a boil.

In a separate bowl, add one cup of hot water and soak the tamarind pulp for five minutes. Once the tamarind is soft, add the pulp to the soup bowl. Discard the seeds

and leftovers of the tamarind.

Next add sugar and fish sauce to the soup, then add the fish steaks and cook for 5 to 7 minutes until they’re fully cooked.

Remove the fish from the soup.

Add tomato wedges, okra, elephant ear stem and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, then add beansprouts. Adjust the broth to your taste if required, with extra salt, water or fish sauce.

For garnish, heat 1 tablespoon of oil and add 1 tablespoon of minced garlic. Sauté until the garlic is slightly golden, and transfer to a small serving bowl.

Before serving the soup, put the fish back into the soup bowl, heating it for 2 minutes. Add the leftover herbs and diced red chilli pepper, and pour the fried garlic on top.

Serve this soup hot with rice noodles, and you’ve got our soup of the month!

Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy Kitchen —facebook.com/arorassassykitchen.

You can also check out her website — arorasassykitchen.com

HCMC PROPAGANDA

Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot!

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico.

Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn

MAY RESTAURANT 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com 8am to late Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com

NHA HANG NGON

VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7

OPERA

CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

QUAN BUI 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com A contemporary, casual, trattoria-style restaurant with al fresco dining overlooking the Opera House. Specialising in both traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine, the restaurant also features an impressive breakfast menu.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

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HCMC SAFFRON

PAN-MEDITERRANEAN 51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike.

Reservations advised.

SAIGON CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SAN FU LOU

CANTONESE KITCHEN Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513 sanfulou.com Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further.

SEOUL HOUSE

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

SKEWERS

Word has teamed up with the Mai Nha Children Foundation to help 20 orphan children to grow up as a family and prepare for their future.

Based north of Mui Ne in Central Vietnam, the foundation provides the children with a home, a family and an education.

To help fund this programme, for every copy of our Word you get delivered direct to your door, we will donate VND50,000 to Mai Nha. At VND120,000 per month (minimum of six months), this is a small price to pay to help those in need.

To arrange your home delivery, simply email trang@wordvietnam.com For more information on Mai Nha, click on mai-nha.org

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

SORAE

SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689 soraesushi.com Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.

SQUARE ONE TOP-END INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE First Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com An atmospheric Ho Chi Minh City restaurant featuring simple and authentic Vietnamese and Western cuisine offered from an impressive display of integrated show kitchens to serve guests in five different dining areas. Open for lunch and dinner.

TANDOOR

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON 54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079 swisshousesaigon.com Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook.com/vespersaigon Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection.

Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas

and more. Sells authentic shisha.

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

YU CHU

TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA ANUPA YOGA

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Cfyc.com.vn

NUTRIFORT

GENERAL FITNESS 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8560 nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km.

VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run.

SHERATON FITNESS

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5, Sheraton Saigon

Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

THE LANDMARK CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm.vn

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

VEGGY’S

GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

HAIRDRESSERS VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298

MEDICAL & DENTAL ACCADENT

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com

DALOC

WINE SHOP 74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4376 kimhai.vn

PHUONG HA

GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318

RED APRON

WINE SHOP 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0021

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

SALONS & SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 aquadayspasaigon.com

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to twohour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team.

The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

Q SPA & SALON 31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochine-esque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage. Also offers hair styling and facials.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn

THE SPA Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com

HCMC MARATHON

pham ngu lao

BUDGET CLOTHING 147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / GALLERIES BAKERIES CRUMBS

BAKERY 117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

TOUS LES JOURS

KOREAN BAKERY 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350

serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the name of that most special of sounds — the one from Jamaica.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

BARS & CLUBS BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been

BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com

CAFES BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fast-food style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge.

Check website for movie locations and schedule.

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

THI CAFÉ

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929

T&R TAVERN

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com

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TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE 175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

MARGHERITA

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE 213 Bui Vien, Q1 facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

eries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

ITALIAN / TEX-MEX 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

WRAP & ROLL

ORANGE

BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm

U.BEST HOUSE

TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com

PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT

NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB 40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 3777 monuvn@gmail.com Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This side-street Indian serves up some excellent fare at reasonable prices, with a number of Punjabi specialities to boot.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE

SPOTTED COW

UNIVERSAL BAR LONG PHI

PAPAYA

LA CANTINA

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9780

EAT BABA’S KITCHEN

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BURRITO REVOLUTION

TEX-MEX / STREET STALL 124 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 714882

SISTERS CAFE

VIETNAMESE/WESTERN 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 Light wood paneling, beige walls and locally themed artwork help to create a fresh and airy ambience in this café-cum-restaurant that is owned by the woman behind Chi’s Café. Also does visa extensions and motorbike rental.

TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES CHINESE NOODLES 195A De Tham, Q1 tamhao.com Nothing gets better than a bowl of tasteful broth and hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when it’s from Tam Hao. Hip interior design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.

226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check out the second floor, junglein-the-wall décor at this particular branch. Unique and refreshing.

ZEUS

GREEK / KEBAB 164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

GALLERIES GALERIE QUYNH

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BAM SKATE SHOP

SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BLUE DRAGON

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

THE HUNGRY PIG

BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar.

A popular hangout.

CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311

JJ’S FISH ‘N CHIPS

FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De Tham, Q1

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eat-

65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

district 1

BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

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District 10

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District 4

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BARS & CLUBS BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 0906 780081

CHILL SKYBAR

TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

HOA VIEN

CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

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District 3

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REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Saigon’s first reggae bar located close to The Obser-

vatory on the other side of Pham Ngu Lao. Open late, holds a number of nights like Tropical Wednesday, Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies’ night and Underground Saturdays, all in an attempt to pump things up for the party seekers in town.

BOOKS LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.

Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com

CAFES (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews

in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003 sam.nguyen197@gmail.com A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

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HCMC THE OTHER PERSON CAFE COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3844 3295 saigongivral.com

I.D. CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

LE PETIT CAFÉ

FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2067

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

COBALT

ROOFTOP RESTOBAR Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullman-saigon-centre.com A tapas-style contemporary international menu in an equally modern chic space, Cobalt also has panoramic views over the city thanks to its 30th-floor location. Has a focus on wine matching and tasting. A hotel restaurant with a difference.

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

MONSOON

EAT 27 GRILL

GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grill-style fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

CAFÉ IF

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

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PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888

saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

QUAN UT UT

US-STYLE BARBECUE 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 facebook.com/quanutut It’s a no-brainer, right?

American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

SAN ART

WE LINK

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

re.com MEDICAL

& DENTAL

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

GALLERIES

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its

SALONS & SPAS CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing services.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA STAR FITNESS GYM

COUNSELLING 64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most

HAIR BAR

CONTEMPORARY SALON 68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108 hairbar.vn A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/hairbarvn.

SPA TROPIC

79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

district 2

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS DISTRICT 2 Nội

Thao Dien

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VOELKER

BAKERY 39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

BARS & CLUBS BAAN THAI

SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports.

The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL 38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel: 01299 839314 facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill

Song Hà

Nội nh Song Hà

DISTRICT 2

With its seven TVs, full-size mezzanine area, pool table and aircon lounge space, BMV is the perfect place in District 2 to relax and watch the sports. Has live music on Thursday and Friday nights, and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in Thao Dien.

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THE FAN CLUB

SPORTS BAR Ground Floor, The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, Q2 dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub 12 quality screens and eight draught beers, music spun

by DJs, excellent burgers, quiz nights and barbecues.

All in an attractive, contemporary environment.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

SAIGON OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

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Hà

Lộ

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Mai Ch

Tr

BAKERY 244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8392 The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien, Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries such as croissants, pain au chocolat, pain raisins, pizza dough, pates feuillete and much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Ho Chi Minh City.

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BAKERIES

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Binh Thanh

Th ả

CAFES AGNES CAFE

COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offers a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Now open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed and intimate.

CAFÉ EVITA

LAID-BACK CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 230A Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 3888

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES LITTLE ANH-EM

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 179

HCMC SPORTS

VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

EAT CRAFTS & FURNITURE AUSTIN HOME

CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL

AND

RUGBY

024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com

SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn

ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com

gauloisdesaigon.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com

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CAFÉ FARE / TEX-MEX 11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable café offering up a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Open until 10pm.

FEELING TROPIC

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com

SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

BOOM BOOM BURGER

SQUASH

Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com

Contact Fred on 0919 709

CHI LAI

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors.com Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

AGNES CAFÉ

US-STYLE BURGER JOINT 2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 532378 boomboomburgers.wago.co A simple and tasty menu similar to that of the US’s InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom Boom has chosen to focus on the fundamentals of the perfect burger — sweet potato fries, jalapeno-infused beef patties and special avocado blends.

SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults.

Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

LA CLOSERIE D’ELISA

FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT 52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 A tropical garden ambience

VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com

HCMC that is at once French yet contemporary Indochinese is the home of this table d’hote style restaurant and bar. Classic French cuisine at reasonable prices in the heart of Thao Dien.

LU BU

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.

Has petanque on the terrace.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE LOOP

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE 100%

MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES 26B Thao Dien, Q2 100percentvn.com

HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS 49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA AQUAFIT

AQUABIKING 65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 008985 aquafit.vn

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.

A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620 laholista.com Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

GROCERY & DELI 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Saigon’s longest running Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a special contemporary menu that brings together a fusion of European dishes, cooked up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook. com/Pendolasco2 for full menu and info.

TAMAGO

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms.

They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTRE

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day.

No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run

by Cyril himself.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 540030

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines with a portfolio spanning old and new world as well as everything in between.

The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new tipple.

GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com

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HCMC

district 3

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars.

Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

CLOUD 9

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS

LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE 224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948 031323

WOODSTOCK BAR

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.

Tel: (08) 39304075 metallicbar.com Showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered

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live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music starts at 8.30pm.

ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

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Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

SKATEWEAR / STREET 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BAM SKATE SHOP

BOO STREETWEAR 187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3

n D u Nguy ễ

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8

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BUD’S

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,

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CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

HIDEAWAY

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 3398 ICE-CREAM PARLOUR 171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

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Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

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AVEDA HERBAL SPA

8

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ACOUSTIC

Thao Dien Village, Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222

Th án g

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FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

AUTHENTIC SPA

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District 10

MEDICAL & DENTAL

SALONS & SPAS

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District 1

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www.firstBIKE.com.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

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Sa

Tr ưn g

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FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

Mạ ng

Bà

Võ Vă Ng n uy Tầ ễn n Th ịM in h Kh a

KIDS

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BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

Hoàng

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

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CONCEPT COIFFURE

Lý Ch ín

HAIRDRESSERS

EAT boo.vn CRAFTS

& FURNITURE

ATC FURNITURE

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 39326455 SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 38403946 atc-craft.com Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living space of your home? Come to ATC FURNITURE, you will find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly materials (water hyacinth & rattan). Our outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A hanging (hammock) chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long day at work.

REMIX DECO

INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.

Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

BANH CANH HOANG TY

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

HCMC PHO HOA

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city.

Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.

Pricing depends on size and style.

LAC VIET TATTOO 608 Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com

SAIGON BODY ART 135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com

SAIGON INK 26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO GROUP 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn

BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

JOIE DE VIVRE

WESTERN / FRENCH 292/10, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066 facebook.com/joie.vn

TATTOO SAIGON 128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943

massage spaces in Districts 2 and 3. Private and group yoga classes. Home visits available.

SHRI

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn

VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 vietchay.vn

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY

YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 michelle@michellelloyd.com michellelloyd.com American trained and licensed massage therapist and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and

BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com

HAIRDRESSERS YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791

MEDICAL & DENTAL STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children and adult.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service.

Orthodontics is also available.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908 453 338 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX

Trading Centre 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 183

HCMC

STUDENT EYE THE SLANG WORKSHOP

A

s an international student in the US, I felt compelled last month to go to a ‘slang workshop’ at Temple University’s Writing Center, to better understand the American tongue and avoid future awkwardness. There was good reason for this.

At a recent networking event, I got into a funny situation because of my foreign pronunciation skills. The convention room was crowded with business students eager to network. I started to feel out of place and wanted to go back, so I went around the room to look for the friend I’d come with, Chi. This five-foot tall girl was nowhere to be found and I was losing my patience.

I turned to an American classmate and asked: “Where’s Chi?” He looked at me strangely, then started to laugh. He turned to another classmate and repeated my question, “Where’s Chi?” — and both of them broke into laughter.

You can imagine how strange this situation must have been to me. So I did what every Vietnamese would have done: I laughed along. When my classmate could finally catch his breath, he told me

184 | Word May 2015 | wordvietnam.com

not to say this to anyone else.

I left the meeting feeling like I had missed something. A few days later, I met Chi again in class. “Seriously, what did I miss?” I wanted to know. “I was looking for you everywhere and kept asking ‘Where’s Chi?’” Once she heard that, she suddenly stopped laughing. “Oh my god Anh, we’re so sorry, we all thought you had a problem, it sounded like you were saying ‘wedgie’!”

In the time since, I’ve picked up some tricks. What follows is a list of tips for acting cool in difficult situations. From my mistakes, I came back stronger and so can you!

Getting Cool 1) If you meet your crush and you’re too scared to stay, say “I gotta bounce” and run for your life.

2) You’re tired after a party? Say “Mama’s gotta siesta after fiesta” and pass out on your friend’s couch. (The sentence is half-Spanish for their partyanimal reputation, but so far I’ve only seen Koreans and Vietnamese passed out on strangers’ couches.)

BY ANH NGUYEN

3) ETA is estimated time of arrival, though I thought it meant “envy that ass”.

4) If you don’t want to waste your parents’ money and try to stay in the dining hall as long as possible, you’ll end up with “food comas/food babies” and the “freshman 15” condition (the “freshman 6.8” in metric-scale countries). But don’t worry, I’ll probably be near the hamburger counter rubbing my bloated belly if you need to complain.

5) You’re new to the party and want to look cool, when they ask which year you are in, give them a sexy look and say “frosh”. It means “freshman” but it’s shorter and sounds cooler. You’ll blend in in no time!

6) If you are ignored after trying number 5, they are noobs and it’s not your faux-pas because we’re too cool for school! Peace out!

I rest my case.

Signed, The Wise Turtle of Temple Anh Nguyen is a first-year student at Temple University in Philadelphia, United States, enrolled in the Department of Journalism — smc.temple.edu/journalism

HCMC DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

phu my hung

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL Đông yễn Ch N gu

CHEZ GUIDO

PANORMA FITNESS

Nguyễn Văn Linh

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AMERICAN EYE CENTER

g ằn

Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

DISTRICT 7 PHU MY HUNG

www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

BAKERIES

KFC

LOTTERIA Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

WILLY WOO’S Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon.com US-style chicken and waffles

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

ú

gB

EL GATO NEGRO

Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

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www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

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Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

Ng

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Nguyễn Văn

DOMINO’S PIZZA

INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS 206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel: 01654 058401 / 01629 546534 cezsaigon@gmail.com

Nguyễn Đô ng Chí

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Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

HUNGRYPANDA.VN

complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

L’AMOUR

BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn

SAVOURE

BAKERY Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

SIMRANS

BAKERY SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg

BARS & CLUBS BANANA BAR

EXPAT BAR SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

PEACHES

CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more.

A popular local haunt.

RUBY SOHO

CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900

THE TAVERN

EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody.

Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7355 bellavitafurniture.com

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110; S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-creations.org

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org

EAT BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

(08) 5410 0822 nathaliesrestaurant.com

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304

MING DYNASTY

LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 5555

NATHALIE’S

THAI / VIETNAMESE S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:

VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL

GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not presently available in Saigon South sets this joint apart.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn. com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience.

The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments.

Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

FV HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969

MAPLE HEALTHCARE Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100 maplehealthcare.net Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 185

HCMC

A WORLD

OF

UH OH, VOLUNTEERS

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

US Navy volunteers help the NGO, Kids Against Hunger

A

colleague recently asked me about the best way to ‘use’ volunteers. Uh oh, I thought, this is always tricky, but here’s what I said.

I know two volunteers who came here without researching Vietnam or the nonprofit they signed up with, despite having a clear job description and a collaboratively-designed project. Less than 24 hours in-country, the couple decided the project didn’t suit their ‘personality’.

They expressed repeated concerns about ‘not eating spicy food’ and arranging living quarters immediately so they could have a kitchen because they had to have ‘toast in the morning’. Wow, if you can’t let go of your toast then this country’s really gonna rock your world.

Volunteers and receiving organisations need to carefully vet one another. It’s really OK to say ‘Thanks, but no thanks’ in the pre-arrival stages and save those inevitable tears later on.

Did the volunteer check in with any former volunteers to find out about the host and their projects? Did they dig deep in their research and study? Does the host organisation have a decent incountry orientation? Would you apply for an internship at an engineering firm

186 | Word May 2015 | wordvietnam.com

without at least searching websites and understanding basic mathematics?

Probably not. So why do others assume that because they’re from a ‘developed’ nation that means they’re an ‘expert’ in a ‘poor country’? First up in your pre-trip departure planning: learn the meaning of neocolonialism.

What You Need to Know So, if you want to volunteer and you think you’re ready, keep this handy checklist in mind. Are you flexible? You’re overseas (likely for the first time) and uh, things are different than home. Several years ago I knew some interns leaving after just three days here because they ‘couldn’t handle the traffic’. If your big project falls apart due to innumerable reasons (and they do) are you OK with trying something else?

This leads to are you a team player? (No, really.) The nonprofit may need you to jump in with ‘small’ tasks that aren’t part of any agreed project, but are vital to the day-to-day running of typically resourcestrapped charities. Next, keep your ‘moral indignation’ to yourself. Yes, we’ve got poverty and malnutrition and street children here, but I’m more interested in your professional skill-set contribution to the task at hand.

Can you demonstrate real-world knowledge transfer? Do you take time for daily reflexivity?

And what about the receiving organisations? I’ve said before that nonprofits regularly mess up with volunteers, but letting folks in the door for some free labour just because they ‘like’ the food, culture or weather is not good enough. Have you shared your vision, mission and values and expect people to adhere to them? Do you care if volunteers understand this? Do you let an international volunteer sit for weeks on end twiddling her thumbs waiting for official permission to go to your rural project sites? Perhaps the host nonprofit should have given this some thought prior to the volunteer’s arrival because this isn’t new news; it’s Vietnamese law.

Did you ask for a project your organisation can actually support (and needs) or are you just going to ‘figure it out’ when the volunteer turns up?

Way back when I started out, I was a volunteer. And you can be one, too. And funny, it will pretty much have nothing to do with breakfast.

Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth

16

Giải Bóng Né Sài Gòn 2015

G

Đội bóng nào sẽ giành chiến chức vô địch năm nay?

iải đấu bóng né Sài Gòn lần thứ 5 đã quay trở lại tại sân vận động ở Quận 3, hứa hẹn nhiều màu sắc và gay cấn với tám đội tranh nhau chức vô địch.

“Tôi nghĩ rằng trang phục và tính cạnh tranh của giải đấu làm cho mọi người rất háo hức,” Daren Cheng, người có kinh nghiệm lâu năm tổ chức giải đấu này cho biết. “(Các đội) có một vài tháng để chuẩn bị và đều tuyên bố họ là đội mạnh nhất.”

Anh Cheng đã thi đấu trong giải đấu năm đầu tiên, sau đó lui vào làm công việc tổ chức cho giải đấu lần thứ hai và thứ ba, và trở lại thi đấu ở giải năm thứ tư. (Anh tiết lộ sẽ dẫn chương trình cho giải đấu năm nay, và cũng là năm thứ ba liên tiếp anh dẫn chương trình). Anh vẫn rất khôn khéo mặc dù đã không thành công ở chức vô địch năm ngoái do bị đội Cuộc Chiến của Các Tay Ném, đội đã chơi theo phong cách thời Trung Cổ.

“Mỗi giải đấu lại có sự khác biệt,” anh Cheng nói.

“Các đội đều có những cái tên rất khôi hài.”

Anh cũng cho biết thêm dù thế nào chăng nữa chỉ cần một đội giữ được một người chơi trên sân của mình, họ vẫn có cơ hội giành chiến thắng. “Kể cả một người mới chơi cũng có thể giành lại được quyền chơi chỉ sau một cú bắt bóng.”

Cùng với sự lớn mạnh của câu lạc bộ, ngày càng có nhiều thành viên người Việt Nam tham gia. Về số lượng, hiện nay người Việt và người nước ngoài khá tương đương nhau. Anh Cheng cũng cho biết số lượng người chơi trong câu lạc bộ ở Phnom Pênh, Cam-pu-chia vốn được một thành viên của câu lạc bộ bóng né Sài Gòn trước đây góp phần sáng lập, nay cũng đang phát triển tốt. — Harry Hodge Giải đấu bóng né Sài Gòn 2015 sẽ diễn ra tại sân vận động Rạch Miễu, số 1 đường Hoa Phượng, Q3,

THỨ BẢY

TP. HCM

LỄ HỘI ESCAPE: NEXT INVASION Chúng tôi biết các bạn thường không còn nhiều nhiệt huyết sau những kỳ nghỉ lễ dài. Nhưng chúng ta có mặt ở đây để tham gia bữa tiệc khiêu vũ lớn nhất của Sài Gòn với những bản nhạc chất lượng vàng của Tóc Tiên, Long Halo và DJ Hoàng Touliver. Lễ hội sẽ diễn ra ở quận 7 với thức uống sẽ được phục vụ bắt đầu từ 18:00 giờ — đây là đêm nhạc mà bạn không muốn bỏ qua. Để đặt vé, xin ghé facebook.com/escape.vn, hoặc gọi theo số 0909 404490. Lễ hội sẽ diễn ra tại Lô 13, Tân Trào, Q7, Tp. HCM

27

THỨ TƯ

TP. HCM

NHÓM LITTLE BARRIE TRỞ LẠI

TP HCM vào ngày 23 tháng 5. Đăng ký sẽ đóng lại vào đầu tháng 5 nhưng khán giả có thể vào xem tất cả các trận. Để tham gia chơi trong câu lạc bộ thường xuyên vào buổi tối, bạn có thể tới số 75 Nguyễn Đình Chiểu, Q3, TP HCM các ngày thứ Hai và thứ Tư lúc 20 giờ. Để có thêm thông tin, truy cập trang Facebook hoặc vào trang saigondodgeball.org

Bạn còn nhớ cái đêm tuyệt nhất bạn từng trải qua ở Apocalypse Now? Không, không phải cái đêm đó đâu — mà là cái đêm khi nhóm Dengue Fever biểu diễn ở tầng trệt, và nhóm nhạc blue Little Barrie người Anh gần như thổi bung cánh cửa khi bắt đầu mở màn.

Loud Minority sẽ đem đến sự trở lại lần đầu tiên của nhóm nhạc kỳ cựu Little Barrie tại một môi trường thoải mái của Cargo Bar. Đây cũng là dịp may mắn để thưởng thức đứa con tinh thần của tay guitar Barrie Cadogan — ngay sau khi album Shadow được đánh giá cao ra đời, và bài hát chính cho chương trình truyền hình Better Call Saul được phát sóng. Thật ra, bất cứ lúc nào cũng là thời điểm tốt cho việc xem Barrie Cadogan biểu diễn, người thủ lĩnh tài năng này đã được Edwyn Collins đặt danh hiệu “tay guitar hay nhất ở thế hệ của anh” Little Barrie sẽ biểu diễn ở Cargo Bar (7 Nguyễn Tất Thành, Q4, Tp. HCMC), lúc 19:30.

Giá vé là 350,000 đồng cho vé đặt trước, và 450,000 đồng cho mua tại cửa — vé hiện được bán tại ticketbox.vn và Asian Kitchen (185/22 Phạm Ngũ Lão, Q1, Tp. HCM)

wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 187

Biến Ý Tưởng Thành Hiện Thực Gây quỹ cộng đồng vẫn còn khá mới mẻ ở Việt Nam. Hoa Lê gặp ba gương mặt đã biến ý tưởng của họ thành hiện thực nhờ vào việc thuyết phục được rất nhiều người góp vốn cho các dự án của mình. Ảnh do các nhóm cung cấp

T

háng Tư năm ngoái, Thành Phong, một trong những họa sỹ truyện tranh nổi tiếng nhất Việt Nam tung ra một chiến dịch kêu gọi vốn cộng đồng qua mạng. Cùng với người bạn đồng hành của mình là Khánh Dương, Phong hi vọng sẽ nhờ vào sự ủng hộ của cộng đồng để có đủ chi phí sản xuất một bộ truyện tranh mới. Chiến dịch của anh đã làm cộng đồng mạng dậy sóng.

Rất nhiều người tò mò muốn biết tác giả hết sức sáng tạo của tập truyện Sát thủ đầu mưng mủ đang ấp ủ điều gì.

Và họ cũng tò mò muốn biết về một thứ khác. Đó là một hình thức “đầu tư” mới mẻ, với tên gọi kêu gọi vốn cộng đồng. Khi đó hình thức này còn khá xa lạ với họ. Nhưng rất nhiều người đã bị cuốn hút vào việc họ sẽ được xem bộ truyện tranh mới của Thành Phong với tên gọi Long Thần Tướng, vì vậy số lượng người đóng góp tiền vào quỹ đã trở nên rất nhiều.

Thực tế phản ứng của cộng đồng mạng đã được Phong và Dương tiên đoán trước. Nhưng liệu dự án của họ có thành công, và những khán giả tiềm năng đó có đủ niềm tin để gây được một số tiền mục tiêu là 300 triệu đồng cho tập một của bộ truyện là điều họ không thể dự đoán trước được.

“Có rất ít các dự án gây quỹ cộng đồng đã thành công ở Việt Nam,” Dương chia sẻ, anh cũng là người đưa ra ý tưởng đó và xây dựng hệ thống chạy dự án. “300 triệu đồng là số tiền khá lớn — thực tế đây

188 | Word May 2015 | wordvietnam.com

là con số lớn nhất mà một dự án dạng này đặt mục tiêu ở Việt Nam tại thời điểm đó.”

Anh nói thêm: “Thời gian đầu, thử thách lớn nhất của mình là thuyết phục được Phong với ý tưởng đó.” Khi đó Thành Phong khá rụt rè một phần vì nếu dự án thất bại thì rất có thể ảnh hưởng tới tiếng tăm của anh.

Có rất nhiều lý do để một nhóm các nghệ sỹ quyết định sử dụng hình thức kêu gọi vốn cộng đồng nhằm biến các ý tưởng của họ thành hiện thực. Đối với Phong và Dương, lý do là để được có quyền với các tác phẩm của mình, có thể tự do làm theo ý muốn của mình đối với bộ truyện tranh.

Thông thường, việc xuất bản của Việt Nam phải được thực hiện trong phạm vi một nhà xuất bản nào đó và tác giả thường có rất ít quyền đối với các tác phẩm của họ. Tuy nhiên, đổi lại với sự tự do họ sẽ có được, việc thành công của dự án của Dương và Phong sẽ phụ thuộc vào việc gây dựng quỹ — nếu họ không gây được đủ số tiền đó, dự án sẽ coi như thất bại.

Còn đối với dự án Echoes, trước đây được biết đến với tên gọi Hanoi Soundwalk, nhạc sỹ Josh Kocepek và ê-kíp của anh lúc đầu nhận được tài trợ từ Đại sứ quán Đan Mạch. Nhưng họ cần nhiều tiền hơn để có thể tiếp tục phát triển dự án sang bước thứ hai và mở rộng nó tới một quốc gia khác.

Tương tự như vậy, việc nhận được số tiền chỉ có giới hạn từ các quỹ quốc tế cũng là lý do việc nhóm thực hiện dự án Khu 9- Một bộ phim tài liệu quyết

định tham gia hình thức gây quỹ cộng đồng vào tháng 8 năm ngoái. Số tiền tài trợ họ nhận được từ Viện Goethe không đủ để họ hoàn thiện bộ phim dài 60 phút này. Họ cần thêm 105 triệu đồng nữa cho giai đoạn hậu kỳ sản xuất.

Những trang mạng hỗ trợ hình thức gây quỹ cộng đồng như Kickstarter, Indiegogo, Gofundme và Rockethub đã trở thành một phương tiện online rất hiệu quả để hỗ trợ về mặt tài chính cho việc phát triển sản phẩm và thực hiện các nghiên cứu thị trường. Ở Việt Nam, mặc dù vậy, cách tiếp cận này vẫn còn khá mới mẻ. Năm 2013, một nhóm thanh niên trẻ tuổi đầy nhiệt huyết đã tạo ra một trang mạng đầu tiên bằng tiếng Việt hỗ trợ hình thức này với tên gọi IG9 và đã khá thành công trong việc gây dựng quỹ cho một vài dự án, nhưng hệ thống này đã ngừng hoạt động sau khoảng một năm. Để đảm bảo sự thành công của một dự án gây quỹ cộng đồng trong một “thị trường” còn khá mới mẻ như Việt Nam, các nghệ sỹ cần làm nhiều việc hơn là chỉ trông đợi vào may mắn.

Ý Tưởng Đúng

So với các loại hình huy động vốn khác, những dự án gây quỹ cộng đồng của các nghệ sỹ thường có lợi thế. Sự sáng tạo, thú vị và đặc sắc của các dự án dễ có sức hút sự chú ý từ cộng đồng. Trong khi đó các dự án xã hội như chiến dịch thiện nguyện dễ bị coi là nhàm chán bởi người ta đã quá quen với chúng rồi.

Sự Chuẩn bị Kỹ lưỡng

Trong chiến dịch Long Thần Tướng, cả Dương và Phong đều không có một tài khoản tại Mỹ và vì thế họ không thể chạy được chiến dịch trên những trang điện tử quốc tế như kickstarter.com. Trong khoảng một tháng, Dương đã tự xây dựng một trang web riêng với các chức năng tương tự. Trang web này cho phép những người muốn đầu tư cho dự án của anh tại Việt Nam có thể thanh toán bằng nhiều hình thức khác nhau.

“Không phải mọi người ở Việt Nam đều có thẻ Master hay Visa để thanh toán trực tiếp trên các trang quốc tế,” Dương nói. “Vì thế trong hệ thống này, chúng tôi tạo ra mọi hình thức thanh toán có thể sử dụng ở Việt Nam mà bạn có thể nghĩ ra được: từ việc chuyển khoản ngân hàng, tới việc chuyển tiền qua cây ATM hay nạp thẻ điện thoại để thanh

toán. Đối với những ai làm công việc văn phòng hay chỉ đơn giản họ hết tiền ở tài khoản và ngại ra ngoài để thanh toán, chúng tôi cung cấp cho họ số điện thoại và chỉ cần họ nhấc máy lên, sẽ có người của chúng tôi tới để thu tiền tận nơi.” Khi dự án mới khởi động, hầu như nhân lực chỉ có Dương và Phong, vì thế họ đã thuê dịch vụ giaohangnhanh.vn để trợ giúp trong những trường hợp như thế.

Ngay cả khi một ê-kíp quyết định sử dụng những hệ thống quốc tế có sẵn trong chiến dịch của mình, như việc Echoes sử dụng hệ thống Indiegogo, Josh cho biết vẫn có rất nhiều những việc khác mà họ cần phải chuẩn bị để chạy dự án.

“Chạy dự án đòi hỏi một khối lượng công tác chuẩn bị rất lớn,” anh nói. “Chúng tôi đã phải làm việc rất nỗ lực để đảm bảo rằng chiến dịch của mình trông chuyên nghiệp và phải chuẩn bị sẵn nội dung THÚ VỊ để lúc nào cũng có cái chia sẻ trong suốt quá trình gây quỹ nhằm gây sự chú ý với cộng đồng.”

Một khi chiến dịch đã khởi động, ê-kíp đằng sau Echoes luôn phải trong tư thế sẵn sàng để “bán” sản phẩm của mình thông qua thư điện tử, đối thoại trực tiếp với mọi người, hoặc trên trang Facebook.

Nhóm của Josh cũng đã có một buổi biểu diễn âm nhạc trực tiếp để mọi người có thể trải nghiệm và góp tiền cho dự án.

Trong phần lớn các dự án gây quỹ cộng đồng, bạn sẽ không có một sản phẩm đã hoàn chỉnh để mang bán mà chỉ có ý tưởng và kế hoạch triển khai.

Chính vì thế, việc chuẩn bị một trang web chuyên nghiệp, trang Facebook và một đoạn clip thể hiện được dự án của mình là một điều hết sức cần thiết.

“Trong đoạn clip chỉ dài 2 phút nhưng bạn phải làm sao để người xem biết được bạn là ai,” Dương giải thích. “Nếu bạn không làm tốt được điều này, bạn sẽ thất bại.” Ê-kíp của anh trả khoảng 10 triệu đồng để có được clip như ý và chuẩn bị các khâu cần thiết cho chiến dịch.

SAVE

The Date

Hình ảnh bởi Aidan Dockery

Dự án Khu 9 – Một bộ phim tài liệu lôi cuốn được sự quan tâm của nhiều người bởi vấn đề đặc sắc mà nó đề cập tới. Bộ phim kể về sự tồn tại ngắn ngủi của Khu 9 từ khi nó được thành lập tới khi bị sớm đóng cửa vào cuối năm 2013. Khu 9 là một tổ hợp đặc sắc về nghệ thuật và giải trí được tạo dựng vào đầu năm 2013 trên một khu nhà cũ của công ty dược phẩm. Sau đó nó nhanh chóng thu hút được các nghệ sỹ đến từ khắp nơi trên thế giới, tất cả đều hi vọng sẽ chia sẻ được những ý tưởng và thể hiện được tài năng của mình. Khu nghệ thuật phát triển cho tới tháng Mười hai và một tai nạn xảy ra ở đây đã khiến các cả khu buộc phải đóng cửa hoặc rời đi, điện nước lần lượt bị cắt một cách đột ngột, các thông báo buộc phải rời khỏi được gửi tới các hộ kinh doanh. Mặc dù Khu 9 tồn tại chỉ trong một thời gian ngắn, dư âm của nó để lại cho tới tận hôm nay. Chiến dịch gây quỹ cho bộ phim tài liệu này đã thành công gây dựng được 122 triệu đồng sau 30 ngày. Đối với dự án Echoes, gần đây vừa được vinh danh tại giải thưởng Công Nghệ Châu Á (Tech in Asia), nhạc sỹ người Anh Josh và ê-kíp của mình đã phát triển một ứng dụng trên điện thoại thông minh và một bản đồ âm thanh dựa trên một tổ hợp từ truyền thống cho tới âm nhạc đương đại. Người tham gia sẽ được trải nghiệm cảm giác thú vị khi họ đi dạo quanh một lịch trình đã được lập trình sẵn, tới mỗi nơi họ dừng lại, âm thanh thú vị sẽ phát ra, khi là ca trù, khi là một đoạn băng lịch sử – thông qua bộ tai nghe mà họ mang theo. Sau khi dự án chạy thử vào năm 2013, ê-kíp của Josh mong muốn mở rộng và thực hiện ở cả Hà Nội và thủ đô Copenhagen của Đan Mạch. Dự án đã gây dựng được 109 triệu đồng sau 30 ngày.

Long Thần Tướng hứa hẹn mang tới những người đầu tư vào quỹ cơ hội được đọc một bộ truyện tranh hết sức thú vị, được vẽ bởi nghệ sỹ tài năng Thành Phong và ê-kíp của anh. Sau 60 ngày chạy dự án, họ đã huy động được 330 triệu đồng. Sau thành công đó, Phong và Dương đã chạy một chiến dịch tiếp theo để huy động vốn sản xuất cho tập hai bộ truyện. Họ hướng tới mục tiêu đạt được 200 triệu và tới ngày 31 tháng 12 năm ngoái, ngày cuối cùng của chiến dịch, số tiền quỹ thu về đã vượt ngoài mục tiêu và đạt tới 250 triệu đồng. “Ở các nước phương Tây, có những chiến dịch thành công với những ý tưởng khá đơn giản, gần như bộc phát,” Dương nói. “Như chiến dịch làm món salad khoai tây [của Zack Danger Brown] đã nhận được số tiền đóng góp lên tới 55.000USD. Nhưng ở Việt Nam, người ta chưa quen với việc gây quỹ cộng đồng này, vì thế bạn cần phải có những ý tưởng chỉn chu hơn.”

Đừng Từ bỏ Hi vọng

Một khi dự án đã khởi động và chạy, bạn cũng cần điều chỉnh nó nếu thấy cần thiết. Đối tượng “khách hàng” mục tiêu của Dương và Phong và nam nữ ở lứa tuổi trên 25, có thu nhập từ khá trở lên sống tại Hà Nội và thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. Nhưng để tiếp cận được đối tượng khách hàng này, họ đã chi khoảng 50 triệu đồng để quảng cáo thông qua Facebook. Điều này đã giúp họ chọn lọc và tiếp cận được những khách hàng tiềm năng cũng như tăng khả năng được cộng đồng biết tới.

Dự án Long Thần Tướng cũng có rất nhiều những sản phẩm để tặng lại khách hàng đã đầu tư cho họ: từ những bức tượng mô phỏng nhân vật trong truyện cho tới việc người đầu tư có thể trở thành một nhân vật phụ trong tập truyện tranh.

Tuy vậy, nếu ở những ngày đầu tiên, dự án có vẻ chuyển động khá chậm chạp, bạn vẫn cần giữ vững được thái độ lạc quan. “Tôi đã thấy có những người tỏ ra rất thất vọng và chán nản, nhưng thực chất việc đó sẽ không giúp ích được gì cho họ cả,” anh Josh nói.

Thông thường trong một dự án gây quỹ cộng đồng, rất nhiều người sẽ theo dõi thường xuyên quá trình tiến triển của nó, nhưng chỉ đưa ra quyết định “đầu tư” vào những ngày cuối cùng của chiến dịch.

“Bạn cần phải vượt qua được nỗi sợ thất bại,” Dương nói. “Chúng tôi đã có lúc xác định sẽ trả lại tiền cho những người đã đóng góp khi dự án không đạt được số tiền mục tiêu. Nhưng thật may, điều đó đã không xảy ra.”

LỄ HỘI ASEAN PRIDE Đại Sứ Quán Hoa Kỳ tại Hà Nội và CAMA Việt Nam lại một lần nữa cùng nhau tổ chức lễ hội nhiều màu sắc và kéo dài trong ngày vào thứ Bảy ngày 20/6 tại thủ đô Hà Nội.

Dẫn đầu sẽ là nữ hoàng nhạc indie-rock người Mỹ gốc Việt Thảo Nguyễn, cùng với sự tham gia của nhóm nhạc đầy cảm hứng O.J. Law của Malaysia, ngoài ra còn có nhóm rock COCC từ Sài Gòn, DJ Lotus Disco, Tô Lâm và nhóm vũ công khiêu vũ trên giày cao gót và cùng nhiều nhóm quốc tế và trong nước khác. Tất cả sẽ được công bố một tuần trước ngày diễn ra lễ hội. ASIAN Pride 2015 là chương trình âm nhạc được xem là điểm nhấn của năm.

Về mảng nghệ thuật, sẽ có chợ các sản phẩm địa phương và tất nhiên đồ ăn thức uống cao cấp, lễ hội một lần nữa sẽ giới thiệu chất lượng và sự đa dạng của giới thứ ba mới nổi này, đồng thời vẫn tạo ra một không gian an toàn để ăn mừng cho sự đa dạng về giới tính.

Lễ hội năm trước đã thu hút hơn 4,000 người đến American Club ở Hà Nội để tham gia. Lễ hội năm nay hy vọng sẽ trở thành một sự kiện lớn hơn và tốt hơn. Để biết thêm thông tin chi tiết, xin ghé camavietnam.org

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The final say PRO TIP #1

Native Vietnamese speakers hear words differently than us non-native speakers, I’m told. Where gà and ga might sound pretty similar to us, words with the same tone like gà and mà often sound more similar to someone raised with the language.

So, that waitress isn’t giving you “I don’t know what you’re saying westerner” eyes because she’s bored/repulsed by your clumsy Vietnamese... or is she?

PRO TIP #2 I call this one “the best tip I’ve ever gotten”. Don’t worry so much about being able to pronounce the different tones out of the gate — worry about being able to hear them.

Once you can hear the differences, it’s all downhill from there.

THE FINAL SAY

The Perks of Learning the Language

PRO TIP #3 Immerse yourself. It’s what my Vietnamese-speaking boss tells me.

Put yourself in situations where you have to use Vietnamese. That is the only way to truly learn the language. His own particular solution was to find a café — the forerunner of Chi’s Café in Saigon, in fact — where the staff would sit down with him, chat, and help him practice his Vietnamese.

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NATIONAL

Ed Weinberg has lived in Vietnam for three years — during which time he’s learnt enough Vietnamese not to starve. Well, he just points at things.

In January it all started to change

F

ive months ago I attempted to write a humour piece called Foreigners Shouldn’t Speak Vietnamese Because it Makes Me Look Bad. I was going to pepper it with funny and ironic things, like asking why people can’t just point at stuff instead of learning taxi Vietnamese, and listing skills foreigners could learn that wouldn’t affect my self-worth. But it wasn’t that funny. I was actually jealous.

Four months ago, I started attending a beginner’s Vietnamese class. It’s my

second attempt at learning the language.

My teacher is the hilarious, energetic Annie of minor YouTube fame (she’s also at learnvietnamesewithannie.com). She has a series of videos available online that feature common expressions, vocabulary associated with different situations and her big, humour-filled eyes.

Annie teaches us polite Vietnamese. She always calls me anh Ed, and once wore an ao dai to class. Five of us attend the Tuesday and Thursday class, which started in January

and went through to the end of March — last month we started on level two. Two of my friends also signed up, and there’s a nice convivial atmosphere for our awkward first-date questioning about whether or not we enjoy swimming.

And it’s already been paying off. As the founder of this magazine — whose superb Vietnamese was the inspiration for that Foreigners Shouldn’t Speak Vietnamese article — said about when he started learning the language, “I just remember a whole new world opening up.”

Keeping your world open takes work.

When I first moved to Vietnam, I felt this constant momentum — even if what I was doing was boring, I could just say “I’m doing this... in Vietnam” and it would lose that dead-end feeling. That trick doesn’t work anymore.

Sometimes I lie to Vietnamese people about how long I’ve been here. I don’t really love those conversations about how I should speak Vietnamese already — it sounds much better when that advice is given in a future tense.

But it’s true. Although I use English for work, and most of my Vietnamese friends are fluent-ish, it matters to my life here. It’s the source of that small-moment magic which makes the world always seem new and unpredictable.

Getting Comfortable I look at those expat forums a bit too often. They’re good for a lot of things, especially wasting time. But once in a

while, a post gets at the core of the expat dilemma.

In January, someone wrote a very honest post on Expats in Ho Chi Minh City, asking about how to deal with the frustrations of living in Saigon. It wasn’t said in bitterness, it wasn’t someone trying to pick a fight. He was talking about the frustrations many of us face on a daily basis.

This time, it hit me while I was on my way to work. The oblivious woman in front of me was pissing me off. She didn’t see I was trying to squeeze back into the correct lane before an oncoming truck pulverised me.

I leaned on my horn. At first she didn’t realise where the sound was coming from — the scary truck roaring up behind? A renegade taxi? Me? Eventually she figured it out, and she moved.

I saw the tense look on her face and felt remorse — this time it was me creating the stressful situation I’m so often frustrated by. I couldn’t even bring myself to smile as I looked at her panicked eyes.

And then I thought — next time I’m in that situation, I’ll yell, “Chi oi! Xin loi! Cho toi qua!” Simple words I learned a long time ago, but the dots never connected.

Missed Connections By the time I had a couple lessons under my belt I was already feeling more comfortable. I had put in some work on my ridiculous pronunciation of the

word ‘pho’, which my friend likened to pronouncing ‘soup’ as ‘sooooooooup’. I was feeling confident.

On the day our cleaners came by, I engaged the non-English-speaking husband of the pair in conversation for the first time. I cobbled together a few words, like ‘xong roi’ (‘finished’) and ‘bao’ (‘newspaper ’), while holding up the last issue of the magazine. I told him how late I stayed up while finishing edits on the issue. He repeated, “Chin gio sang?” then said, “Ooooh.” It wasn’t much, but it sure beats the hell out of “Xin chao, anh khoe khong?”

My classmate told me about her first real conversation with her motherly landlord, who sometimes gives her food. She told her landlord she felt sick, and her landlord asked if she was pregnant (we’ve learnt some real-life situation Vietnamese for sure). Lana reacted in mock horror, saying she was too young. The landlord then told Lana that her sister had given birth to two sons at the ages of 33 and 37, so Lana has plenty of time.

Standing there on the sidewalk after class, Lana said, “So it was a short conversation, but it was a real conversation. This is something I think about sometimes, so it was really nice to hear an older Vietnamese woman say that I still have plenty of time. This is one of the reasons I want to learn Vietnamese, to be able to speak with this woman who I’ve lived around for so long.”

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The final say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Why You Probably Shouldn’t Bother Learning Vietnamese Unless you’re a lifer, Niko Savvas believes there are much more useful things you could be doing

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L

earning Vietnamese is not worth your time.

If you’ve read Malcolm Gladwell’s book Outliers (or if you’ve heard somebody refer to it during a cocktail party, which is more likely), then you already know that it takes roughly 10,000 hours to truly master a skill. As Gladwell himself probably says*, there are exceptions to this rule — mathematical savants, child prodigies and so on.

But these people are rare. Most sixyear-olds are more likely to swallow a chess piece than use it as part of a brilliant Steinitz Defense. And the “10,000 hours” figure itself is suspiciously precise. Anders Ericcson, the psychologist whose work Outliers is based on, later found that it may take anywhere from 500 to 25,000 hours to earn your metaphorical Expert badge.

In light of Ericcson’s findings, consider the following numbers: 500 hours — 20.8 days — 0.06 years 10,000 hours — 416.6 days – 1.14 years 25,000 hours — 1,041.7 days — 2.85 years Let’s pretend that you could master Vietnamese in a mere 500 hours (you cunning linguist, you). All you’d need to do is lock yourself in a dank, windowless room for three solid weeks with your Pimsleur tapes, several college-ruled notebooks, and a towering pile of Bolivian nose sugar.

After a fortnight and a half, you’d emerge speaking fluent Tieng Viet, switching seamlessly between Hanoi and Saigon accents. Learning Vietnamese would seem to be an excellent time investment.

Now compare this hypothetical scenario *Your correspondent hasn’t read the book, either.

to your real-life experience, in which the hotpot waitress glares at you dumbly while you beg to know the location of the restroom. Chances are good that you’re not a Vietnamese-pronunciation wunderkind.

A Language Limited in Range and Function You’re not alone.

Vietnamese is a Category IV language with “significant linguistic and/or cultural differences from English”, according to the U.S. Foreign Service Institute (FSI). The FSI designates Vietnamese as one of the most difficult Category IV languages to learn, along with tongues such as Finnish, Estonian and Magyar. Learning Vietnamese is considerably more challenging than trying to dust off your high school Spanish.

Which, if you think about it, would probably be a much better use of your time anyway — Vietnamese is more or less useless outside of Vietnam. The Vietnamese Consulate General in Houston estimated the total number of overseas Vietnamese at around four million in 2014. The densest concentration of people with Vietnamese ancestry outside of Vietnam is found in the United States, where they constitute 0.006 percent of the population.

In an international context, speaking Vietnamese isn’t going to help you travel.

It isn’t going to help you work, either — the number of jobs requiring proficiency in Vietnamese is roughly equivalent to the number of jobs that require applicants to have excellent fire-swallowing skills.

Vietnamese is not a particularly rich

literary, cinematic or musical language either. Compared with Asian pop culture trendsetters like Japan and South Korea, Vietnamese artists produce little of note.

There are no Vietnamese equals to Haruki Murakami or Bong Joon-Ho. The bestproduced TV programmes are knockoffs of western shows like MasterChef or Vietnam’s Got Talent. No one is breathlessly predicting the rise of V-Pop.

Opportunity Cost But if a person is going to live in Vietnam, shouldn’t he or she learn the language?

Isn’t it a bit rude and presumptuous to assume that you can move to a foreign country and expect the local people to speak your language?

The quick answer: no.

A more elaborate explanation: no, because that’s the entire point of having an international language. In the days of the Umayyad Caliphate, a traveller could wander from modern-day Portugal down to North Africa, then roam all the way to India, so long as he had a decent grasp of Arabic. Even in the 700s, people recognised the value of a bridge language.

Lingua francas exist because they are efficient — by mastering one language, you can suddenly communicate with people from many places. Native English speakers have it easy. They’re inherently adept at the world’s most versatile language.

Non-native speakers have to give up a lot to achieve this proficiency: time, energy and money. But the tangible benefits of learning English (higher wages, easier travel, and

broader access to global culture) justify this sacrifice of resources.

Unless you’re planning to spend a very long time in Vietnam, the opportunity cost of studying Vietnamese is much less favourable. You’re giving up too many of your available non-working/sleeping/ eating hours for a skill that loses nearly all its value the moment you leave the country.

To illustrate, assume that Gladwell is bad at maths and that you can become fluent in Vietnamese with 1,000 hours of practice.

If you studied seven days a week for three hours a day, it would take you about 333 days to hit your target. This isn’t “three hours of half-hearted listening to podcasts or watching subtitled movies”.

This is “three hours of gulag work camp, 100 percent vein-popping mental selftorture with expensive tutors and learning materials”. After nearly a year of doing this every day, you’d be able to bargain more effectively for mangos.

More realistically, though, it would take you several years to reach this point.

Or you could spend a couple of hours learning Vietnamese numbers and interesting things to yell at taxi drivers, then devote yourself to becoming a better painter or tuba player or dessert chef — to doing something that might enrich the world, rather than assuage your societally conditioned guilt. Then you could take a moment to consider where you’d like to watch the next World Cup. If your answer isn’t “the same technoblaring coffee shop I’m in now”, then you don’t need much Vietnamese.

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The final say

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THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War Chapter 8: How Did The War Start?

For the next eight issues, Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchett’s seminal account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s. This work was written in 1964 Diem Takes Over Normally one can pinpoint a war, even a civil war, with precision; the firing of the first shots are recorded in time and place. To my ceaseless probing as to how and when this war in South Vietnam started, I got as many differing replies as questions put. Replies always related to the firing in the particular village, district or province of the person questioned. The most authoritative person to whom I put this question was Nguyen

Huu Tho, president of the National Front of Liberation.

He himself was not regarded as a leftist when he practiced law in Saigon and he did not take part in the anti-French war. But in March 1950, he did walk at the head of a demonstration protesting against the arrival of three U.S. warships in Saigon as a display of solidarity with France’s “dirty war”. Tho and a few hundred thousand Saigon residents were very angry at this and he headed a group

of intellectuals who took part in the protest.

The following day the warships pulled up their anchors and left.

Nguyen Huu Tho was arrested by the French authorities and imprisoned in Lai Chau, a remote town north of Dien Bien Phu. He was released a couple of years later

by Viet Minh troops. When the Geneva Agreements were signed he resumed his law practice in Saigon. So it was to him that I put as one of my first questions: “How did

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it all start? When and where were the first shots fired?”

“As far as Saigon is concerned, we had our first great shock on August 1, 1954, twelve days after the Ceasefire Agreements were signed. I can tell you that people in Saigon were overjoyed when the word was flashed through that the Geneva Conference had succeeded. There were mixed feelings about the two years’ delay over reunification but the general sentiment was that this was a small price to pay for a return to peace and a normal life, free of foreign rule.

“On August 1, there was a monster demonstration of gay, cheering people in Saigon, mainly to hail and celebrate the signing of the Geneva Agreements, but resolutions were passed asking for the immediate release of political and military prisoners, as provided for in the Agreements. The reply came in a volley of rifle fire. Several people were wounded and

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a pregnant woman was shot through the stomach. That this, the first demonstration in peace and freedom, as we thought, should be brutally suppressed, acted as a cold douche on the most ardent spirits. The same day we set up a Committee of Defense of Peace and the Geneva Agreements, and I was elected president.” It became better known in the West as the Saigon-Cholon Peace Committee and included among its leaders the seam of Saigon’s intellectual life.

“For us,” continued Nguyen Huu Tho, “this was a sign that the new regime of Ngo Dinh Diem was only a puppet government, like that of Bao Dai, and was out to suppress the people from the first days of its power. We had not expected this and we had many bitter reflections on that night of August 1 and the days that followed.

“In Saigon the first shots of repression were fired 12 days after the Ceasefire Agreements were signed.”

Reports started trickling in and soon they began to flood in from the countryside telling of wholesale arrests and massacres in areas from which the Viet Minh troops were withdrawing to regroup north of the 17th parallel, in accordance with the Geneva Agreements. “Within a couple of months of setting up of our committee,” Nguyen Huu Tho said, “we started getting delegations from the provinces, begging us to set up similar committees all over the countryside. We started organising them when — on November 11, four months after Geneva — the police suddenly swooped down, dissolved our committee and arrested a number of leading members, including myself.

We had no idea at that time, but in forming the Saigon Committee and its various branches we had seated the embryo for the National Front of Liberation, set up more than six years later.”

Terror in the Countryside As for what was happening in the countryside, some faint glimpses appeared through the cautious reports of the International Commission. I remembered one early reference to the Cho Duoc incident, so when I was in Central Vietnam — fief of the medieval monster Ngo Dinh Can (a brother of Ngo Dinh Diem) — I sought out the full details from Dinh Chau, a member of the Liberation Front’s executive committee of Quang Nam province. A former peasant, with a cheerful face hewn from granite, he had lost a leg in one of his first military actions, but continued to direct activities from a secret mountain base. Chau, like most of the cadres I met in the provinces, had been more skeptical from the start than those in Saigon as to how the Agreements would be applied.

“We received news of them with very mixed feelings here. Of course there was relief that peace would be established over

the whole country and we resistance workers pledged ourselves as an act of discipline to do everything to respect the agreements and do everything possible to prevent violations by friend or foe. But we doubted that our opponents would really respect them.

“The Cho Duoc incident proved our skepticism justified. Most of Quang Nam, except for the Tourane naval base, had been a liberated area in the latter years of the resistance. But in September 1954, a regiment commanded by Le Van Kim [later a leading member of the military junta which overthrew Diem] came to the area. A unit was sent to Cho Duoc in the central part of the province and without a word to anyone, the troops started cutting down fruit trees and bamboos in private gardens to build their barracks.

“People gathered together and protested about this. There was no violence, not as much as a stick in anyone’s hands. People demanded only one thing, that their property

be respected. The unit commander rapped out an order and before anyone could grasp what was happening, the troops started firing repeatedly into the crowd. Terrible cries and screams mingled with the crashing volleys of rifle fire; when the firing stopped the ground was covered with the dead and dying and groaning wounded. There were 40 killed, almost all women and children because most of the men were away in the fields. But the survivors closed in on the soldiers like a great human wave and they ran.

“What first-aid was available was given to the wounded; those that could be moved were placed on rough stretchers, the dead also, and a grim procession set out for the battalion headquarters. Word spread to neighbouring villagers and long before the stretcher-bearers arrived a great crowd had assembled around battalion headquarters. People swept in and, with their bare hands, disarmed the soldiers and poured sand down their rifle barrels and

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into the artillery pieces.

“The stretcher-bearers arrived and the bodies were laid out in the barracks square, friends of the victims demanding punishment for those responsible, medical help for the wounded, compensation for bereaved families. The crowd continually built up, completely surrounding the barracks and preventing any troops leaving.

“For three days there was a permanent crowed of about 15,000 camped around the barracks, some leaving and others coming in a sort of spontaneous relay system; those from nearby villages bringing rice and cooking it for the others. Banners and slogans were rigged up, connected with the specific outrage, ranging from demands of punishment to denunciations of the U.S.Diem regime for an outrageous violation of the Geneva Agreements. The battalion could not link up or even communicate with the other two battalions of the regiment. People discussed things with the soldiers, especially those who had not taken part in the shooting, and a number deserted on the spot. The 15,000 were disciplined, elected their spokesmen, divided the food up equally and showed that they were prepared to keep up the protest indefinitely.

“Eventually the battalion commander had to agree with the demands; to bury the dead at government expense, free medical treatment for the wounded, compensation for the bereaved, an end to destruction of people’s property and an International Commission investigation. An ICC team actually came but they were very passive and the authorities managed to prevent them having any contact

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with the people. Three months later, there were two similar incidents with troops from the same regiment, in which 30 people were killed at Chien Dan and 40 at Cam Coc. People’s hopes that peace had come began to disappear altogether.”

From what I could discover, the Cho Duoc incident was typical for most areas which had been completely controlled by the Viet Minh during the war, “liberated areas” as they designated them. The idea seems to have been to paralyse the population by deliberate terror within the first weeks or months of the ceasefire, as soon, in fact as the Vietnam People’s Army forces and cadres had withdrawn. In compliance with the Geneva Agreements, 140,000 troops and cadres, including a handful of wives and families, had regrouped to the north under International Commission control, taking their arms with them. Repression intensified in proportion to the agitation for the Consultative Conference and the July 1956 elections, which people still hoped would take place and relieve their immediate suffering.

In another area, distinct from that where I had met Dinh Chau, I was able to talk with Huynh Thanh, also a member of the Quang Nam provincial committee of the Front, a doctor with a sensitive aquiline face who had left his practice in Tourane to take part in the anti-French war and, after a few weeks of peace, had fled back into the mountains again. He spoke of conditions in the mainly mountainous district of Tam Ky which includes part of the Annamite mountain chain and borders on Quang Ngai province to the south.

“We consider that the repression was even worse in Tam Ky than in other districts, because it had been a completely liberated area,” Huynh Thanh said. “First order of the day for the Saigon command was to eliminate anyone who had taken part in the resistance administration and to install the Diemist one. Violence was used to affect this and was stepped up as soon as the new administration was in office. Puppet troops who had been defeated in the anti-French war now came as victors, occupied homes and temples, threw the inmates out into the streets.

“Once the administration was set up, the next thing was to try and list the population according to their roles in the resistance.

At first they wanted to list all those who had taken any part at all. But this was impossible because every able-bodied man and woman had taken part and also any child big enough to carry a parcel or message.

So they started listing everyone according to what they considered their importance.

Cadres who were exposed — those still in the administration when they arrived — were imprisoned without any hope of ever coming out again. None of them have ever been seen since. Others had to pack enough food for three or six months or more, and take off for ‘anti-Communist indoctrination courses.’

“In the villages, barracks were set up and the young men and women were herded into separate huts where they had to spend the night, subject to endless harangues against the Viet Minh, Ho Chi Minh and everything to do with the North. The main idea was to root out every bit of patriotism, any memories of the resistance period or even political thinking.

Nothing must be left to hang on to.”

In 1957, the ‘Denounce Communists’ campaign started. And by this time Diem had informed the International Commission that he would no longer tolerate any investigations under Article 14c of the Geneva Conference [prohibiting “reprisals or discrimination against persons or organisations on account of their activities during the hostilities”].

In its report, dated November 4, 1957, the ICC informed the co-presidents of the Geneva Conference that: “The government of the Vietnam Republic has decided not to reply further to complaints relative to this clause and not to permit any activities by enquiry groups provided for in the Geneva Agreements to carry out enquiries relative to these complaints.”

It was Le Quang Binh, a veteran resistance worker, and a member of the Front’s Quang Ngai provincial committee, with iron grey hair and skin so tightly stretched over his face that one felt the bones might poke through any moment, who gave me a graphic account of the ‘Denounce Communists’ campaign.

“It started just because we had given no pretext for repression during the earlier provocations in our area,” he explained. “It was a long drawn-out campaign that cut down many of our best resistance cadres and their families. Children of former resistance workers were banned from going to school; wives of those regrouped to the north were forced to divorce and then remarry to prove they were ‘sincere.’ Land which had been distributed under the resistance

administration’s reform project was taken back and given to former landlords if they were still around, or to some of Ngo Can’s cronies if they were not... Thousands of former resistance members and peasants who were now dispossessed were rounded up and sent off to the so-called ‘agricultural settlements’ in the mountains; irrigation projects built by the peasants during the war years were either destroyed or enormous taxes were levied for the right to use the water.

“Economically things went to pot. Even within a year of the Diemists arriving, there was starvation and famine, especially in the coastal areas where people actually died from hunger in 1955.”

If things were bad for the Vietnamese they were ten times worse for the minority peoples. There are — or were — about 80,000 in Quang Ngai, mostly Hre, but with smaller tribes of B’Nam, K’Dong and Kor. “We have fairly accurate round figures for that period,” continued Le Quang Binh, “because the four mountainous districts are now liberated, solidly this time. In one year, from around mid-1955 to mid-1956, 2,000 tribal people died of epidemics without a finger raised by the Diemists to help them; 600 were killed in mass slaughters, usually buried alive, or hands and feet tied and hurled into rivers or ravines; 450 died in prisons, 500 were either... liquidated by agents or disappeared without a trace after arrests, and another 500 died of starvation. In many hamlets one in every ten died.”

This was only the beginning of the agony of the minority peoples and I had it described by chiefs and ordinary tribes people of a

score of different minorities — a story of unrelieved horror that recalls the wholesale wiping out of the Native Americans in the U.S., and of the Australian aborigines in the first years of white settlement.

As for that first question I had put to Nguyen Huu Tho, I knew the answer long before I met him — but it was interesting to have confirmation from Saigon, too. The war in South Vietnam has no starting point in time and space because it never started. It never started because it never stopped. All that happened was that after the withdrawal of the 140,000 Viet Minh and cadres to the north, a one-sided war continued against an unarmed people.

A large part of the same military machine built up to serve the French with U.S. arms and dollars was turned loose over vast areas of South Vietnam to wipe out the political resistance the French had never been able to crush — and thus suppress at birth any potential resistance to the reactionary policies Diem was committed to pursue.

Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter often described at the ‘rebel journalist’ for his stories about the American War ‘from the other side’. After years of being at odds with the Australian government, last year the Melbourne Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame.

Burchett was also the journalist who broke the scoop of the 20th century — the devastation caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing us to republish this work. Please note that some place names in this piece have been changed to reflect their modern-day spelling

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The last call We speak to Vietnam’s best known streetfood vendor, 49-year-old Nguyen Thi Thanh, also known as The Lunch Lady. Photo by Francis Xavier

I got the name Lunch Lady from...

Anthony Bourdain in 2008 when he was here to make a TV show about me. After the trip, he came back home and gave me the name.

I started serving different dishes every day... when I moved to this location.

I used to live around Dakao market. The area was cleared and I got moved here.

just called my stand the “two sea-almond tree place” — you can see the two seaalmond trees over there.

I got the new sign after...

the show aired. At that time, I didn’t want to change the sign but foreign customers just came and asked if I was The Lunch Lady. So I decided to get the new sign.

Meeting Anthony Bourdain was... so interesting. I didn’t know he was so wellknown. Some people sent by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to arrange a TV show for me with Anthony Bourdain in December, 2008.

They said he was an important man and liked me, wanted to have a day-long show with me, starting in the early morning when I went to the market.

specialities so I can improve and perfect my cuisine. Saigon doesn’t have authentic food, food in Saigon has a neutral flavour.

After his show aired... some people who worked with [Anthony Bourdain] came to my place and gave me a CD. They said, “Anthony has a gift for you. He will call your place ‘The Lunch Lady’.” Before that, people

hu tieu. My mum used to work as a chef for a health protection association and cooked hu tieu and pho for breakfast for doctors and nurses there. As a little girl I used to follow

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Before Anthony Bourdain, the people who came were... Vietnamese office staff who were working around this area.

When I want to eat someone else’s food, I go to... other provinces to try their

My favourite meal growing up was...

her around in order to learn and I ate her soup. It was so delicious.

The next thing I’ll put on the menu will be... bun cha ca and bun moc. I think I will put them on the menu every Tuesday.

People like my soups because... they are authentic and use the correct flavouring.

Being a tourist attraction is... excit-

ing. Although this is just a street food place, many people including big company managers and owners come here. I feel like I’m a representative of Vietnamese food.

In the future… I will make some renovations — maybe just buy new, nice and more comfortable chairs and tables. But I will still keep the place like this with its street style.

Many Viet Kieu come back here again and again because it reminds them of their childhood when they lived in Saigon.

You can find The Lunch Lady on the alley just next to 23 Hoang Sa, Q1, HCMC

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