Word Vietnam May 2016

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 5 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS




Contents May 2016

60

14

86

THE TALK 010 / Smartphones for the People

24 / Carmen

A unique operatic collaboration between France and Vietnam

EAT & DRINK 104 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

The rise of the mobile phone

INSIDER

This month’s review: Gastro: Food and Beer Pub

011 / The Big Five

54 / The Organic Farm

106 / Street Snacker Hanoi

May in Vietnam

BRIEFINGS 12 / Hanoi’s Weatherdude

Growing organic fruit and veg in Hanoi

60 / Food Stories

The weather, but not in Danish

Tales behind the food and drink that appears on your table

14 / Railway Goes Suburban

86 / Mau Colour

Commuters get a welcome boost

18 / Making Every Vote Count This month’s guest column: Dr. Pratibha Mehta from UNDP

22 / Geva Alon

One of Israel’s top musicians prepares to play Vietnam

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Graffiti artists from overseas find a home in Hanoi

92 / The Latin Underground Hanoi and Saigon have got a passion for salsa

98 / The Saigon Pool Tour Where to go to escape the heat

On the menu: bun oc co Hue

108/ Mystery Diner HCMC

Japanese-style foie gras, anyone?

110 / Know Your Com Tam Saigon’s best loved street food

110



Contents May 2016

124

132

136

TRAVEL

50 / Just In

112 / Club Med

140 / Hanoi City Guide

A visit to everyone’s favourite holiday village

118 / Phu Yen

Central Vietnam has some stunning, untouched destinations. Phu Yen is one of them

124 / The Private Island

A snorkeling and seafood trip to somewhere a little bit special

132 / Notes from Another City

144 / Day Tripper 152 / Bar Stool 154 / Top Eats 158 / City Map HCMC 38 / To-Do List

Entry 4: Get Outta Town

42 / Just In

136 / Destination Zero

160/ HCMC City Guide

La Veranda in Phu Quoc

138 / The Motorbike Diaries

162 / Day Tripper

The science fiction lands of India

174 / Bar Stool

HANOI

180 / Top Eats

46 / To-Do List

186 / City Map

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COLUMNS 146 / The Alchemist 148 / The Therapist 150 / Student Eye 156 / Medical Buff 164/ Business Buff 166 / Body and Temple 178 / Know Your City 184 / A World of Good FINAL SAY 188 / Food Poisoning

The wrong side of the food chain

190 / Vegetarian Hanoi

Forget dogmeat, the capital’s going vegan

192/ Ten 10

The most successful Vietnamese restaurant in London: Song Que



CONTRIBUTORS This month we asked our team to tell us about their weirdest experience with food HARRY HODGE Contributor I remember walking in Beijing with a buddy and exploring Wangfujing Street, famous for its pedestrian shopping. There was an alley where you could get pretty much everything fried: starfish, scorpions, beetles. I was kind of excited to try out the scorpions, but when I bit into the skewer, all I could taste was the oil. JON ASPIN Staff Editor ‘Witchity grubs’ are the white, woodeating larvae of moths eaten by the Aboriginal people of Australia. One day as a child while catching ‘yabbies’ in the creek, I was dared to eat one by another boy who knew where to find them. Not wanting to lose face, down the hatch it went. I’ve never forgotten its glutinous, slimy texture or the sinewy, salty taste. SIAN KAVANAGH Contributor Gator and catfish jambalaya in New Orleans — bloody delicious, wish I could whisk it up myself on a whim. Never quite had anything quite like alligator sausage before and I can’t wait to try it again. There’s just something so fantastic about Cajun cuisine, finding comfort in food combinations I could never have imagined before. NICK ROSS Chief Editor I used to live opposite a dog meat restaurant in Hanoi. Every morning a roasted dog appeared on a spit, and by 2pm it was two thirds gone. Against my wishes I ate at the restaurant once, but stayed well clear of the dogmeat. JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer On a road trip to Phong Nha, we stopped on the side of a mountain in the middle of nowhere, and my friends went off to find food. They came back with a Styrofoam box full of organs. I accidentally bit into a kidney thinking it was a mushroom, and then had a lovely lunch of plain white rice instead.

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EMILY PETSKO Contributor During a recent trip to Danang, a friend wanted to try trung vit lon (hard-boiled bird embryo, also known as balut), and I obliged. We found a local street food vendor and took a crack at this strange egg delicacy. After peeling away the shell, I saw a fullyformed bird head peeking back at me. I didn’t eat the head, but I have to admit, the yolk was tasty.

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Prelude

B

ack in October we ran a cover story called On the Streets. The idea was to interview those people who made their living, as it translates in Vietnamese, o ngoai duong, and try to give these people a voice that would otherwise not normally be heard. Not only were the stories fascinating — from the flower seller in Hanoi through to the beggar in Saigon,

the bookseller and the papaya salad professor — but they gave a different flavour to this magazine, which perhaps too often focuses on all that is nice, sophisticated and modern. It was with this in mind that we approached the present cover story, Food Stories. Once again we wanted to get the background behind the things we see every day, except that in this instance it was food that was the focus, rather than people making a living off the streets. To do this we spent

a day with a street vendor, and at the opposite extreme, a five-star hotel chef. We also talked to industry pioneers like Jacko from the Al Fresco’s group, Anh Loan, the woman who brought banh mi to the UK, and the lady who is purported to have invented one of Hanoi’s favourite street dishes, pho cuon. We also visited Pho Binh, the eatery that in the late 1960s became the meeting point for a group of comrades planning an uprising. We haven’t managed to cover everything. When you look at how food and drink

actually gets onto our table, such is the enormity of the food industry that the areas that could be focused on are limitless. But we’ve certainly avoided the standard obsession with only the final product, a preoccupation that these days tends to grip the passions of so many writers and bloggers. We hope you like the angle we’ve taken in what is now our 101st issue. And as ever, any comments, be they good or bad, please email me on nick@ wordvietnam.com. — Nick Ross

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 5 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

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The

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THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo by Trung Del Design by DH Advertising

Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

Inbox Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us at nick@ wordvietnam. com — we’re at your fingertips.

Dodgy Expats (April 2016, page 158) Saigon was a home away from home for dodgy expats when I got there, it was a branch line or two down from the FILTH (Failed In London, Try Hong Kong). This was probably Shane’s best article — honest, from the heart, not snipped from the World Bank Report 2015. I bet the traffic figures were good, too. Thereby creating another dilemma — honest content vs clickbait. Is the Daily Mail really the world’s best website? — PS Awful, AWFUL article. How on earth did this slip through the net? Extremely ignorant. There are plenty of good reasons for many of the things you mentioned, in fact there are expats here who meet your ‘dodgy’ criteria doing good for the world

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and for Vietnam. This article is egocentric and incredibly male centric. — EM Worst article ever. That Gmail thing was true 10 years ago but nowadays companies and their reps use Gmail all the time. No chamber membership? Gimme a break. — DS A good concept for an article with a dumb, selfcentred approach. Some points are amusing, true and obvious, the others are just hoity toityness trying to put down others who are not being paid by daddy’s company for a glorified jolly to play business in an early market. Chambers and charities are not for everyone. Sure we should all help those less fortunate and all network, but we don’t need to be dodgy if we do it your way. — JO

BUSINESS BUFF DODGY EXPATS

M

ark my words you will see more dodgy expats in Vietnam in the coming years as it starts to become an even easier place to live for foreigners. Over my past 13 years as an expat and eight years in Vietnam I have met some of the best and worst of the expatriate community. Some examples of the ‘dodgy expat’ include; simultaneous multiple wives and children; abandoning long-term girlfriends who become pregnant; ripping off business partners, or plain old-fashioned dodgy drug dealing. This month I have made an easy checklist of how to spot a dodgy expat. While there may be some exceptions to my list, in general these are the tell-tale signs of who you are dealing with. If they hit on more than three of these be warned: they are probably ‘dodgy’.

No Paperwork. We all know some expats

who have lived the expatriate lifestyle but have never had the legal paperwork to do so. No work permits, no tax code, not registered where they live etc. They come up with every imaginable reason why it’s better to fly under the radar, but at the end of the day the main reason is that they are dodgy.

No Chamber Affiliation. Here is a great 158 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

way to meet some quality expats. Go to a chamber event — those that are members in general are far more professional and legit than those who are not members. Auscham, BBGV, AmCham, the Singapore Business Group, Nordcham, Eurocham, InCham — all super examples of great business network chambers to join.

@gmail or @hotmail for business. This is by far one of the best ways to spot a dodgy expat. It still amazes me that there are financial services “professionals” who offer advice on investment, insurance or property and yet have no business email account. If the business card has @gmail just turn and run. If it was accurate it would say @dodgy.

Change of Companies.

Many expat managers in Vietnam complain about how quickly Vietnamese change jobs and this is also a warning sign for expats. If the expat has changed companies every few months then there is a probably a problem with the person not the companies. Be warned — they could be dodgy.

Change of Social Group. I have met

a few expats over my time that change social/friendship groups on a regular basis. Over time I have realized it is not them

BY SHANE DILLON

meeting new and better friends, but old ones figuring out how dodgy they are and the expat having to move on to the next bunch of suckers. If someone is best buddies with a group one week and the worst of enemies the next, there is a good chance there is something dodgy going on.

No Charity Support. If you have been

an expat for any length of time in a developing market, you should get behind at least one charity organization with at least social support if not financial. Next time you meet an expat ask them what charity they support, and get the inside scoop if they might be dodgy.

Girly Bars. If the expat goes to girly bars a few nights every week, this means they need to pay people to hang out with them and pretend they are somewhat interesting while they get drunk. We all know the answer already — they’re dodgy. So the next time someone hands you a business card and offers you some advice, make a mental check with the above list. Who knows, it just might save you a lot of hassle down the road. Shane is an executive director of the Australian Chamber of Commerce. He can be contacted at shanedillon@pacificcross.com



THE TALK

LEAD ARTICLE

Smartphones for the People

From iPhones to the cheapest Chinese UMIs, everyone seems to have a smartphone these days

W

hile only a couple of years ago smartphones were the plaything of the rich, or those who wanted to be rich, now everyone seems to use them. From market stallholders and motorbike security guards through to school kids and rural farmers, everywhere you look in Vietnam you see smartphones. Statistics published in January on the website, wearesocial.sg, put this into perspective. As of January 2016, 93% of adults in Vietnam were using a mobile phone. Of this, 55% (more than one in two people) use a smartphone. Out of a population of 93 million people, 39.7 million access the internet on their mobile phone and four in five of all internet users are online every day. Of this, 73% of people with smartphones are using social media. At present, the share of total web views in Vietnam is rising by 40% a year on mobile phones and 4% a year on tablets. Smartphones are increasingly the preferred method for accessing not just the internet, but social media. The fact that 34% of the whole population are using mobile messengers and 29% are watching videos, while 19% are using mobile banking, 28% mobile map services and 23% are playing games on their mobile is indicative of another phenomenon; the smartphone in Vietnam is being used for almost everything.

An Expensive Toy? Considering that the average salary is around VND3.3 million a month, Vietnamese people are spending the equivalent of one month’s pay to buy even the cheapest smartphone. To purchase the entry level iPhone 6S, which costs VND12.8 million, this rises to the equivalent of 3.9 months salary. That the everyday Vietnamese is prepared to spend such a large amount of their income on these devices shows how important they are. Smartphones are seen as status symbols, rather like 20 years ago, when wearing gold or a nice watch showed that you had money. If you use a smartphone, then you are successful, modern and part of the new Vietnam. You are connected. Use

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an iPhone or the latest Samsung Galaxy, and you are wealthy. Also important is the adoption of the internet and social media. With 43% of the population accessing the internet on their phones, this suggests that Vietnamese people en masse are buying into the modern world of digital. The possibilities this creates for communication and doing business online in a country with the world’s 14th largest population are boundless.

A Voice What should be the role of the internet in modernday life? Should it remain anarchic or libertarian, in the image of its creators, or should it be regulated and controlled like so many other aspects of the ‘free’ modern world? In a country where for so many years there has been little public debate, the internet and — in particular — social media, offer the everyday person a chance to express how they feel. And of course, the main medium for Vietnam is Facebook. The adoption of Mark Zuckerberg’s brainchild is startling. According to a survey by local newspaper Tuoi Tre, by June 2015, Facebook had 30 million users in Vietnam, of whom 27 million people accessed the social media website via their smartphone or tablet. Of these users, 20 million people were on Facebook daily — 17 million via mobile. Last year there were a number of Facebook campaigns in opposition to unpopular policies. The highest profile was the movement in Hanoi to stop the felling of 100-year-old French planted trees. It made national headlines and for a few weeks was the talk of Vietnam. Growing access to the internet fuelled by the widespread use of smartphones played a huge role. Using their devices as cameras or video recorders, Facebook ‘activists’ could go to tree felling sites, and instantly upload images to social media. By owning a smartphone, you not only own a status symbol, but also have access to information from all over the world, and if used in a certain way, it can give you a voice. It’s something that today’s digital generation in Vietnam are very attuned to. — Nick Ross


Big5 The

Modern dance, Pete Tong, Ironman, Ratatat and family theatre. The top five events this month in Vietnam

a

c

b

French contemporary dance performance, Autarcie, will be playing in Saigon

“It’s all gone Pete Tong.” Get it? Tong is the only DJ in the history of dance music to lend his name to Cockney rhyming slang

The second installment of Ironman returns to Danang this month

a)

b)

c)

1

Autarcie Ben Thanh Theatre, HCMC Wednesday, May 4

For 50 minutes, four dancers using very different performance spaces and techniques, will take to the stage and engage in a frantic ritual of dance. This is Autarcie, a French inspired hip-hop, breakdance and popping show that will be coming to Ho Chi Minh City on Friday May 4. Using the front of stage as the rallying point, the four dancers come together and devise a warrior dance directed at the audience. Interested? Well, this is the work of lauded French-Vietnamese dancer and choreographer, Anne Nguyen, and by all accounts, it could be sensational. Autarcie will be shown at Ben Thanh Theatre, 6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, HCMC. Doors are at 7.30pm and tickets cost from VND100,000 to VND450,000. To purchase the tickets, click on ticketbox.vn/event/ autarcie-60640/34665

2

Pete Tong Blanchy’s Tash, HCMC Thursday, May 5

Pete Tong, the legend of dance music, is coming to Blanchys Tash for an exclusive show on Thursday, May 5. A BBC Radio 1 DJ, Pete has held a commanding presence in the

industry for more than two decades. With an unparalleled ear for new talent, he is the leading tastemaker of the electronic generation. This will be a once in a lifetime opportunity to see an industry icon up close and personal in an intimate setting. Tickets cost VND2 million per person and include a free drink. There are also table packages available. To book, call Mr Sen on 0909 028293. Blanchy’s Tash is at 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, HCMC. Doors are at 9pm

3

Ironman Danang Hyatt Regency, Danang Sunday, May 8

It’s too late to enter the second edition of Ironman in Vietnam, but it’s certainly not too late to come along and watch this spectacle of mind and body over a lot of tropical matter. Participants will swim, run and cycle a scenic course that begins with a 1.9km ocean swim in front of the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa. From there, athletes will enjoy a scenic two-loop 90km bike course that takes them along Danang’s pristine coastline and by some of the city’s key landmarks. The final 21km out-and-back run course is flat and passes by Danang’s beach resorts before finishing at the foot of the Marble Mountains. For more info, click on ironman.com

4

Ratatat CAMA ATK, Hanoi Sunday, May 22

Ratatat have played in Vietnam twice before, and on both occasions they were electric. Now they’re back for a show at yet another tiny, packed-to-the-rafters venue — CAMA ATK. The work of New York duo Mike Stroud and Evan Mast this one is a must, and with tickets at only VND250,000 in advance, to miss Ratatat will be like missing out on a trip to the Oscars. Or something like that… For more info turn to page 48

5

George’s Marvellous Medicine

Saigon Outcast, HCMC May 28, May 29, Jun. 4 and Jun. 5 Dragonfly Theatre will be staging their next production, the Roald Dahl classic, George’s Marvellous Medicine, on May 28 and 29, and Jun. 4 and 5 at Saigon Outcast. The latest in a serious of theatrical performances that have wooed the audiences of Ho Chi Minh City, this one’s for all the family and will include a number of interactive elements. Early bird tickets are available until May 15. So, book your seats early and prepare yourself for some good old family fun. For more info turn to page 40

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Briefings Hanoi

Hanoi’s Weatherdude

When you need a weather forecast in Hanoi, there’s only one place to turn

I

n a city where the weather often seems like it’s out to get us, and the forecast is usually wrong, there is a man who keeps watch. Every morning at 5.30, he heads to his rooftop to test the air, taking readings with the tools in his modest home weather station. When he senses changes ahead, he takes to the online world, and tells the people of Hanoi what to expect. Then he buttons up his shirt and heads into his day job, no one the wiser. He is known on Facebook as Hanoi’s Weatherdude. “I get lots of messages like, ‘Who are you, who are you’,” the Weatherdude laughs. I wanted to know, too, so we met in Hanoi on a typical grey afternoon. This is the boring time of year, he tells me, when everyone pesters him about the long-lost sun. “Hanoi gets an average of four or five sunny days a month,” he says. “The sunniest time is coming in May.” It’s the constant mist that I hate the most, I tell him. “That’s because all the warm air is coming in, and the cold air that’s been here all winter is kind of getting pushed out slowly, [so it creates condensation]. Once it gets hot enough, it sounds simple, but it’s true, it burns it off. The humidity can’t

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really hang out anymore, and then you have that dun-daaa, opening to the sky.”

Good Atmosphere In truth, Hanoi is not an easy city to live in when it comes to the weather. But the Weatherdude seeks to ease some of our atmospheric pains. “People trust me because I’m real, instead of a computer that tells them approximate numbers,” he says. After 16 years in Hanoi, he knows what to expect from the city’s weather patterns, but “there’s a little bit of luck in it,” he admits. So who is this dude? A lover of nature; he studied environmental science in university, and worked as a park ranger in Canada. “I lived on the beach as a squatter for a while,” he adds. He came to Vietnam as a volunteer with VSO, working in a national park in Nghe An province. Then he moved to Hanoi and did what most of us do, at some point or another; teach English. Since then, he’s broadened his educational scope, teaching highschool classes like Global Perspectives and Environmental Systems and Societies. Weather has always been a hobby for him, but he started posting his informal forecasts to Facebook about three years ago.

Particular Matter Though his students don’t know it’s him, they’ve liked his page, and they follow his updates. “It’s a good way to get my humanities students more involved in being outside,” he says. “Most of my students live in apartment buildings, and when the sun shines, they close all the blinds. It’s like there’s a new generation of people who are afraid of the sun.” “The pollution is really bad [in Hanoi], but it’s also the geography. It just sticks between the mountains,” he explains. “There’s a few more particles in the air, and it’s definitely something to worry about, but you sometimes get expats that just complain all the time, and I don’t want to be that person who’s like, ‘Look, its more polluted than Beijing!’ It’s not… but it's getting there.” Though the Weatherdude loves a good cumulonimbus, he doesn’t want to be doom and gloom about Hanoi all the time. “If you can survive the weather and the heat, and the grey winters and the smog, and you can survive the traffic, then you can live here. Because everything else is awesome.” — Jesse Meadows To keep up to date with the weather, click on facebook.com/theweatherdudeinhanoi


“Every morning at 5.30, he heads to his rooftop to test the air, taking readings with the tools in his modest home weather station�

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

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Briefings National

•

Railway Goes Suburban A new railway service gives a much-needed nod to the commuter

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• PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY

I

n 1989, on a return trip to Vietnam, Vietnam vet Raymond Monsour Scurfield came across his first set of traffic lights in the country. “Our sixth day, in three cities, and our first traffic light in Vietnam is here in Hue,” he wrote in his work, A Vietnam Trilogy. Four years later and Scottish development worker James Moran arrived in Hanoi. According to his book, Vietnam in a Changing Time: “When we first arrive there are roughly eight traffic lights in the entire city centre of Hanoi yet in our first few weeks we do not see a single accident. By some process of give and take, the traffic wends in and out like spaghetti in perpetual motion.” Speak to long-term expats and they remember this period — a phase when there were no taxis or public buses, an era before traffic lights where the streets were dominated by bicycles and pre-1975 scooters. Twenty-five years later and the transportation system in this country is unrecognizable. Traffic lights are the norm, public bus systems — urban, suburban and national — are well set up, taxis roam city centres and two metro systems are being built. Yet, with the country’s major cities expanding well beyond their postwar, urban boundaries, there is a new phenomenon; the commuter. As it stands,

commuters — particularly those from out of town — are badly catered for. The metro will certainly help at some time in the future, but at present you’ve got two options. Drive, face the traffic and the danger of the roads, or take the bus.

Saigon to Bien Hoa Go to almost any major city in the developed world and an urban metro system is complemented by a suburban rail service. Such is the thought behind the new expansion of train services between Ho Chi Minh City and Bien Hoa, 30km to the north of Vietnam’s largest metropolis. Created not to make profit but, according to the Vietnamese language website Phap Luat, “to reduce the congestion in the inner city suburbs of Ho Chi Minh City and the two adjacent provinces of Binh Duong and Dong Nai,” the initial fare will be VND10,000 for passengers travelling the full route and VND5,000 for those travelling part way. In addition, motorcycles and bicycles can be brought on the train free of charge. Calling at six stations — Sai Gon, Go Vap, Binh Trieu, Song Than, Di An and Bien Hoa — 10 trains a day will run initially between Di An in Binh Duong and Sai Gon Station in District 3. In July it will extend to Bien Hoa. The full journey will take 55 minutes. But two questions remain. Will people use

this new service? And will it help reduce congestion? With the number of vehicles on the roads increasing by between 8% percent and 12% a year, the likely answer to the latter question is ‘no’. But this pilot scheme provides a new and far safer option for travelling in and out of the big city, an option we can only hope people take advantage of.

Heading North If they do, then it’s possible that Hanoi may get the suburban railway service nod as well. At present the capital has two main railway lines. One travels south towards Ho Chi Minh City. The other heads to the Chinese border close to Lang Son. Look at the stations along the way and you can see how this may work. The Reunification Line going south could take in seven stations before finishing up at Phu Ly, the main city in Ha Nam. The service to Dong Dang on the border could end up at Bac Ninh stopping at Long Bien, Gia Lam, Yen Vien, Tu Son and Lim en route. While residents of the capital may decry the possible increase of non-Hanoian workers entering the big city, as in Ho Chi Minh City, this will provide a new option for those struggling with the daily commute in and out of town. And with motorbikes taken off the roads and placed on the train, it’s far safer, too. — Nick Ross

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Briefings HCMC

The Man From Uncle

As the Uncle Bill’s story shows, doing retail in Vietnam requires flexibility

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nyone who has visited Uncle Bill’s will know what an unusual shop it is for Vietnam. First is the price point. This is not bargain basement, but the typical cost of the products is VND69,000, which is still cheap. Yet what you find in stock is good quality. Then there is the range. Uncle Bill’s sells a little bit of everything — from kitchen items and giftware through to crafts, stationery, household cleaning products, solar items, environmentally friendly knives and forks and stuff for the barbecue. Indeed, the 1,900 products are in many ways typical of what you may find in Europe, Australia or North America. As man behind the scenes Eckart

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Dutz explains: “There is a general usefulness on all of our items.” He adds: “You go [to Uncle Bill’s] and you will be surprised what you find. So you find stuff that you’re looking for and you’ll find things that you don’t even know exist. That’s what people are telling me.” There is another stand-out as well. The Vietnamese retail industry is struggling to turn a profit. While in Indonesia, modern trade already accounts for 40% or even 50% of the market — in Thailand it’s probably 60% or 70% — in Vietnam it’s still in its infancy. All meaning that the majority of the big retail players, most notably the convenience stores, are operating at a loss.

Uncle Bill’s, however, has avoided this problem by selling their products not just through having their own stores, but through other channels including e-commerce, supermarkets and more recently mediums including TV shopping and mail order catalogues. This gives Eckart flexibility, and ensures that by not needing to have 100 stores located around Vietnam, he still has the ability to turn a profit. It’s a recipe for success.

A Worldwide Phenomenon Formed in 2002, Uncle Bill’s is a simple but unique Chinese export business — a huge central warehouse with a large range of best-selling discount variety products ready


for immediate shipment. By having all the products pre-produced and dispatch-ready, this takes away the need for retailers to pay for storage themselves or wait months for new orders. Now serving customers in over 50 countries, Uncle Bill’s has been one of those Chinese success stories you so often read about. A few key factors have made it happen. “One, it’s really outstanding value for money,” explains Eckart. “You get a lot of product for not very much money. The second thing is, unlike other Chinese products, Uncle Bill’s has decent packaging design and this has been steadily improving over the last couple of years. Third, it’s new to the market. Uncle Bill’s develops their products and packaging in Australia. So they’re always up to date with the latest product trends. That’s how we have access to merchandise that is new on the global market.” Not surprisingly there have been many takers for Uncle Bill’s. Launched in 2002, in 2004, the company moved into Australia and in 2010 they entered both the US and UK markets. Vietnam came during the same year, but it wasn’t until 2013 that Eckart opened the store in Saigon’s District 2.

A Growing Market The first outlet was opened in Phu Nhuan. It wasn’t effective. So in 2013 he brought Uncle Bill’s to Thao Dien in District 2. It was an immediate success. Eckart believes there are two reasons for this. First was the size of the store — it was larger than the Phu Nhuan outlet meaning that he could display all his products. More importantly was the clientele, “Western customers who seem to be much more familiar with our product range”. For some this could be a worry. If you’re providing goods or services only to the expat market then you’re missing out on over 90 million customers. Yet as Eckart has discovered from selling through supermarkets and online, “we are confident that our range is a range that is not solely for western tastes.” Yet despite his brand being proven on the local market — last year he even opened a second outlet in Phu My Hung — the nature of doing business in Vietnam means Eckart needs to constantly adapt. One example is import procedures. “There is this fear [in Vietnam] of poorstandard products, especially in relation to food and food preparation,” he says. “So the registration of all the single products is definitely a big hurdle. And because we’ve

got so many, that’s a big investment in terms of money and time.” The other is the market itself. It’s untested. Prior to products arriving in Vietnam, it’s unclear what will sell and what won’t. “It’s only when products are imported that we find out what sells and what doesn’t,” he explains. “Category management, building an assortment, having an idea how to promote stuff other than having to discount it, these are all factors that make it difficult.” Yet Eckart is successfully navigating his way through the unique conundrum that is doing business in Vietnam. “Many things work in our favour,” he says. “We are not forced to grow, not forced to go in a certain way, not forced to have 20 stores, not forced to combine Uncle Bill’s with another 2,000 products. So we can tailor that to what we feel is appropriate at this point of time and we can just wait until things develop.” — Nick Ross Uncle Bill’s is at 26 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC and 1032 (S12-1) Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC. Over the next few months Uncle Bill’s will be adding new categories to their range including toys, furniture, electronics and products for Halloween and Christmas. For more info click on ubl.vn

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BRIEFINGS

GUEST COLUMN

Making Every Voice Count

The publication of the 2015 Provincial Governance and Public Administration Performance Index provides a unique insight into the workings of Vietnam. Words by Dr. Pratibha Mehta

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few weeks ago I was fascinated to learn that local authorities in Danang have harnessed the power of social media to make their coastal city cleaner, greener and more beautiful. People can go online to report a broken lampost, flooded street or an illegal landfill. By helping to prioritise and direct the authority’s response, it has quickly become a success story for other cities and provinces to learn from. Ten years ago, responsive governance like this would have been almost unthinkable in Vietnam. However, as incomes and aspirations have continued to rise, the relationship between government and their people has been transformed. As other countries have found, the more prosperous and educated citizens are, the more they expect governments to be accountable and responsive. That is why we embarked on a journey to help improve communication between local government and its people. In 2009 UNDP Vietnam and its national partners introduced a pioneering set of metrics to capture people’s experience in the Provincial Governance and Public Administration Performance Index (PAPI). According to the national press, PAPI came as a breath of fresh air to push local administration to reform. By engaging provinces with their results, not only has it made provincial leaders think about their performance, but it has also spurred them into action. Now in the fifth year of the survey nationwide, nearly 75,000 citizens have taken part. As this corresponds exactly to the last government’s term, not only does it provide a public score card of its public administration and local governance performance, it will set a benchmark for the new administration going forward.

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Causes for Concern With Vietnam having just gone to the polls to elect a new National Assembly, the release of this year’s PAPI report is important and timely. For example, it warns that many of those who depend on public administration and services the most, including women, ethnic minorities, and the less well educated, would have been less likely to vote unless urgent action is taken. The scores for participation in local level discussions on laws and ordinances and for vertical accountability also dropped this year. Many interviewed reported feeling disengaged by the overall political process. And unless they are engaged and mobilized, they won’t have a say. Another major concern this year is a drop in transparency and control of corruption. A number of high profile corruption and maladministration cases have been reported at provincial and local levels over the past year. It is encouraging that the recent Party

Congress took a strong stand on the need to step up the fight against corruption. Broad and inclusive participation in the election of new National Assembly members is a vital step in helping to make this happen. Over the past five years we have been greatly encouraged by how national and provincial government authorities have responded to PAPI findings. To date, more than 40 provinces have hosted workshops to look more closely at citizen feedback. And over 26 provinces have used PAPI data to design and carry out their action plans, directives and resolutions to improve their implementation of general governance, administrative procedures and service delivery.

Engagement I believe that PAPI has played a vital role in building a performance culture for public administration and public services in Vietnam. Good, responsive governance

and accountable institutions are a vital foundation for success in achieving the Sustainable Development Goals and delivering on the 2030 Development Agenda. As the Party Congress stressed, there is a clear need for greater accountability and responsibility of the leaders to control corruption. This can only be achieved if all citizens, particularly the most vulnerable, are fully engaged in this endeavor. Creating ‘virtuous circles’ of empowerment between institutional reformers and engaged citizens is what PAPI is all about. Dr. Pratibha Mehta has been UN Resident Coordinator and UNDP Resident Representative in Vietnam since 2011. She holds a PhD in Psychology from the University of Gujarat, and an MSc in Child Development from M.S. University, Baroda, India. To see the findings and insights of the 2015 PAPI Report, which covers 63 provinces, click on congbo2015.papi.org.vn/ eng and then go to the download menu

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Briefings Hanoi

Hanoi Rock City Gets Creative

The much-loved events venue has transformed itself

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veryone wants to know what’s up with the new Hanoi Rock City. There’s a clothing boutique where the couches used to be, and a handpoke tattoo studio in the corner. Gone is the half-pipe that nobody used, replaced by new tables and benches. Come by in the daytime and you can sip a coffee, and if you’re lucky, soak up some sunshine. About a month ago, I was doing just that, throwing tattoo ideas at Karen Labis, the house’s resident hand-poker. A week later, she was stabbing me repeatedly with a needle on the back of my arm. I spent six hours over the course of a few days in her studio, listening as people filtered in and out of the room, chatting, drawing, smoking, and periodically feeding Karen and I crackers while she worked. The space transformed in a matter of weeks; artist Dede Guardiola came in every day, freehand painting a mural so big, it broke off the walls and bled onto the floor and ceiling. In the centre of the room, a table

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is stocked at all times with scrap paper, markers and rhinestones, so the revolving door of visitors that come by can have something to do with their hands. Karen and her partner Lauren Hendin made everything in the space themselves, from the shelves to the cushions to the glitter art that covers the walls. “We’re always just making little things for the shop, and whoever wants to play can play!” says Lauren.

Vocational Next door, 21-year-old Pham Lan Anh also resides over a space she designed herself, using recycled objects and second-hand furniture. She began designing her own clothes about a year ago. After friends started asking about her outfits, she saw a business opportunity, and her clothing line, F.lanh, was born. “I didn’t need a big shop,” she says, “but when I came here, I had [one]!” Lan Anh keeps her store open late on the weekends, so partyers can browse when the club gets too


Competition It was a symbiotic business solution that

led Cuong Vu, co-investor and coordinator, to bring all these young entrepreneurial women together. In recent years, HRC has been struggling, with the competition of new music venues opening up across Hanoi, and a late-night party stigma that limits the kind of business they can attract. “We understand the process of building a start-up, so we support them with that, and in return, they bring us value,” Cuong says. No longer is this just a place to party, but a creative space where artists can connect. “Some of my favourite moments are when you’re just in [the shop], being a creep and listening to people talk, and they’re drawing, and they’re like, ‘I never get a chance to do this!’, or somebody says, ‘I met this really cool person here the other day, and now we’re in a band together’,” says Karen. “I like that it’s a girl power group, powerful women coming together and doing things they want to do, because they can,” says Lauren. “It’s all possible.” — Jesse Meadows

PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

hot, and come back during the week to buy. Behind the bar during the day is Minh Tu, a 23-year-old who used to work at Donkey Bakery, a company that provides vocational training to people with disabilities. Tu wants to employ this model at HRC’s new coffee bar, now called De’s Cafe, teaching life skills that will prepare her deaf staff for future employment. Amy Cowan of the Intimate Initiative has also found a space for her social enterprise here, tucked away in a tiny room by the stairs. She’s amassed the bulk of her company’s information on women’s health, and created a small enclave where women can come for consultations, workshops or just to chat. “Having this space makes it a lot easier for us to gradually familiarise people with the topic. You can come here for coffee, you can browse the shop, and then just kind of meander [over] and have a read,” she says.

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Briefings HCMC

PHOTO BY MUPER

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Geva Alon

On Jun. 9 and Jun. 10, three of Israel’s top Indie rock musicians will be playing in Saigon

“I

was doing a gig in Oslo and we posted some photos,” recalls folk rock singer-songwriter, Geva Alon. “Someone commented on one of the photos on Facebook, ‘Why don’t you come to Saigon and play for us as well?’ and I just answered, ‘If you put a gig together, I will come’.” The person who made the comment was Doron Shachar, a long-term Israeli resident of Vietnam. A few weeks later he came up with a proposition. “I’ve lived in Vietnam for many years,” explained Doron to his fellow Israeli. “I love music and I really want to start bringing bands that I love to Vietnam because no-one ever comes here.” The critically acclaimed musician’s response was positive, and from Jun. 9 to Jun. 11, the guitarist and singer often compared to Neil Young will be playing in Saigon with his newly formed band, Vegan Friendly.

A Celebrated Career That the majority of Geva’s work is in English may come as a surprise — his native tongue is Hebrew — but for Geva, composing and singing in his second language is natural. “Pretty much 99% of the music I listened to as a kid, as a growing teenager, was in English,” he says. “So when I started to write songs and play guitar, I wanted to do that, to be like those guys. So I started to write in English, got deeper and deeper into it, and it just became something that I do.” Influenced by a range of styles — anything from rock ‘n roll, classic rock, grunge, New Wave, blues and Americana — the resulting sound, says Geva “is pretty much a melting pot of all those things together.” It was a sound that enabled him to launch his career back in 2000 as the founding member of indie rock trio, The Flying Baby. He has since garnered critical acclaim as both a solo artist — much of his work is acoustic. His many collaborations, and has worked extensively with famed producer Thom Monahan (Devendra Banhart, Vetiver, Silver Jews, Dinosaur Jr, Jayhawks). He has toured with Macy Gray and Paul Weller, has played all over Europe and North America, touring up to seven times

a year, and is a household name in his native Israel. Yet this will be his first time in Vietnam. “I’m coming to Vietnam with a band that’s kind of new,” he says. “We’ve been working together for the past few months and it’s a trio — me on guitar, a bass guitar and a drummer. [Most of what] you’re going to hear has been written together by the three of us. I’m also going to add a few songs from my past that will probably be a mix of acoustic and electric stuff. But because no-one has really heard what I’m doing, I’m free to do whatever I want as opposed to playing our back catalogue.”

The Israel Factor With the Israel-Palestine conflict often making headline news, ever since 9/11, Israel has struggled with its image in the eyes of the wider world. Naturally it affects its citizens and as Geva admits, he’s often asked about the issues faced by these two nations. “It’s a really complex issue,” he says. “Usually when I get into these kind of conversations, I say to people, ‘Listen, you’re talking to me right now, that’s Israel, not what you see on TV or what you read in the newspapers. It’s two entirely different worlds’.” He adds: “I can’t blame people who think terrible things about Israel after what they feed them on television and on the news; they only see horrible stuff. Then again, I’m going out there in the world, and I show people the real things that are in Israel — people who are creative and kind, care nothing about conflicts and wars. I have Arab friends and Palestinian friends. I grew up next to Palestinians and we got along great. I go eat in their villages all the time, and vice versa. I’m building a house at the moment and I’m using a Palestinian contractor. That’s the real Israel to me. That’s what I try to tell people.” Geva Alon’s Vegan Friendly band is made up of Geva Alon on guitars and vocal, Jango on bass and vocals, and Assaf Riess on drums. They will be playing at Saigon Ranger on Thursday Jun. 9 and Friday Jun. 10. Tickets are available on ticketbox.vn (VND200,000 for early birds or normal price, VND250,000). Entrance includes a free drink. To listen to his music, do a search on YouTube for Geva Alon

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Briefings

Carmen

HCMC

A unique French-Vietnamese opera collaboration comes to Vietnam

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n Jul. 1 and Jul. 2, the most unusual operatic performance to grace Vietnam will play for two nights at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House. Pitting French musicians and actors together with their counterparts from Vietnam, this will be the first genuine international collaboration of its kind seen in this country. Telling George Bizet’s tragedy of the Spanish gypsy, Carmen, and the love

Nguyen Huu Nguyen Orchestra Lead France / Vietnam How did you come up for the idea of this collaboration? And why Carmen? After a concert organised with Lys Events in 2014, we wanted to create something more ambitious and we thought, why not Carmen? I love the idea of bringing the French music I know so well to a Vietnamese audience. And I also enjoy being able to do so with the French National Orchestra. We couldn’t have asked for a better Carmen than Thanh Huyen. When did the collaboration start? The project started one year ago. We worked on finding the right artistic and stage director, the right conductor, the right soloists for each role and, obviously, the right orchestra members. With them being

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triangle that forms between her, the soldier Don José and the toreador Escamillo, to this day Carmen is the most-performed opera in the world. It is also probably the best known. As the man with the idea for the collaboration, violinist Nguyen Huu Nguyen explains, “The story can be understood by all, no matter in which language it is sung, and the arias are already favourites.” We speak to four of the key players behind what will be a unique, one-of-a-kind production.

in France and Vietnam, this gave a different colour to our ensemble. How important is it to bring opera to Vietnam? Opera has been brought before to Vietnam. Vietnamese musicians and lyrical singers are already trained and some of them are familiar with Carmen. It makes the process much easier. I hope the audience will like it enough for us to create new opportunities for cooperation.

Nguyen Thi Thanh Huyen Carmen Vietnam What do you like most about Carmen, the character? Carmen is a strong, courageous and independent woman. For centuries, women have been dominated by men. Carmen breaks these rules, she takes back the power,

without fear of the consequences. She is full of self-confidence and wants to be in control of her fate, even until her death. Eventually she dies because she refuses to acquiesce to the desires of Don José. As an opera singer, it is very exciting to play the role of such a charming woman. How difficult is her role to play? I consider myself to be a passionate, independent woman. Which, in a way, should make it relatively easy for me to embrace the role of Carmen. Mezzosopranos like me traditionally sing secondary roles in operas; Carmen is a notable exception. Why do you think bringing Carmen to Vietnam is good for local audiences? Vietnamese society is still very traditional, largely dominated by men. However Vietnamese women, just like Carmen, are


PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

Images from a recent rehearsal of Carmen

famous for being full of passion, for being emotional and seductive. Women are considered the backbone of family and society. Vietnam had to fight for its independence for centuries. Vietnamese people strove to be in control of their fate and paid the high price for freedom, just as Carmen does. I think the Vietnamese audience will be greatly inspired by this opera.

Brian Riedlinger Stage Director USA / Vietnam You’ve been working in Vietnam for years. How does this present project differ from previous musical projects you’ve undertaken? This production is an opera, and I have never directed an opera before. I have directed several Broadway musicals and stage plays, but opera is really quite different. I am trying to approach this from

a more believable perspective and make the characters seem more real and human. How does your role as stage director differ to previous roles you’ve had in musical and operatic performances in Vietnam? The main difference is that this time I do not have to perform in the show as well. I can concentrate all of my efforts on directing. This means that I can see everything from the audience’s perspective and thus have a better idea of how everything will be perceived.

Carlos Dourthe Conductor France Will this be your first work in Vietnam? It will be my first visit and first musical collaboration in Vietnam. In my opinion, this particular musical work by Bizet is one of the most representative and imaginative that French opera has ever known.

What are you expecting from the project? Hurdles! They inspire me and give me wings! I think it is a beautiful challenge for me to interpret Carmen with both Vietnamese and French artists on the same stage. It will bring an exotic touch to a musical creation that is breathtaking: through the colours, the vivacity, the intensity, the emotions and the tragedy, which is an essential part of the work. What obstacles do you expect to encounter? I think that the main obstacle [will be] the differences that can be found between both schools. But I am confident that thanks to these differences, we will create something vibrant and unique. Ticket info for Carmen will be available closer to the performance. For more info on the production and ticketing, please email Thai Tu Tho on tutho@lysevents.com

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Briefings HCMC PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

An Café Expansion A garden restaurant in District 2 creates a unique space for retail

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hen I pulled up to An Café on a swelteringly hot afternoon, I had no idea that the rustic, tropically-styled, Indochine restaurant had evolved as much as it has. Since the development finished in March 2016, An Café is now home to Anupa Eco-Boutique, Diabolo Furniture Store and Asian Hideaways Photo Gallery, providing not just an appealing, leafy destination to have a meal or ca phe sua da, but also a retail experience. Serving up beautifully presented, authentic Vietnamese cuisine, food prices at An Café are kind on the wallet. The motif pulsing through the entire space is Vietnam — whether it is the food prepared, the images in the art gallery, or the products available to buy. “What we are offering is not just made in Vietnam,” remarks Anupa Horvil, the designer and face behind fashion accessories boutique, Anupa. “We’re about paying attention to all the details and keeping it authentic.” The Anupa brand has existed for a decade, with a full-blown retail outlet on Dong Du in District 1 and a pop-up shop around

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District 2, but it has finally found a Thao Dien home at An Café. The shop is filled with classic, elegant pieces that make up the Anupa Collection — one-of-a-kind leather accessories, jewellery, linen dresses — as well as the sandals of Simone Irani, Pepite-a-moi children’s clothing, and Chichi World linen clothing for men and women. This is wearable art all created with a love of Vietnam. “There is so much high-quality production in [this country] right now,” explains Anupa. “We are all about keeping our shop stocked with quality designs you won’t find anywhere else.”

Ambience A key element of the change is the atmosphere. Here it is relaxed and comfortable. This is reflected in the clientele, many of who are working or meeting; some are just enjoying their afternoon. “Many customers comment on the oasislike relaxing atmosphere, food quality and originality of the space,” says Wieger Otter, co-owner of An Café. “We had too much land initially and it has been great working

with these wonderful businesses to create a unique space for District 2.” On the horizon are a host of events at An Café including wine tastings, seafood evenings and live music, as well as other ideas still in the works. Anupa, for example, will host monthly events by hand picking designers exclusive to her District 2 store. In April it will be Cashmere Crush, a clothing line made from fine cashmere suitable for the tropical climate. And expect the space to mature beyond its initial new look. An Café is no longer just an attractive restaurant and café with open air seating, colonial-style ceiling fans, tropical flora and local cuisine made with quality ingredients. It has expanded, grown up, and added something called ‘lifestyle’. A place to go to escape the chaos of Saigon, now you can get a shopping experience thrown in as well. — Sian Kavanagh An Café is at 10 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, HCMC. For further info on An Café, click on An facebook. com/ancafesaigon. To find out more about Anupa Boutique go to anupa.net/boutique-shopping-inVietnam


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Briefings Hanoi

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The Bee Hive Coworking spaces in Hanoi take on a new flavour

oong coworking space feels more like a spa than an office. Their new location in a hotel complex at the end of To Ngoc Van is striking for its tranquillity. Tall trees wave at you as you walk from the parking lot into a softly lit room where koi swim in a wall length fountain. Up a spiral staircase is the workspace, which opens out to a bright, wide loft with beautifully designed furniture and lighting, glass walls, and a vast painting of lotus flowers mirroring the lotus-laden view of West Lake. Ly, a member of the team at Toong, shows me around. The company’s name is

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Vietnamese for beehive, to ong, squished together and with the accents removed. It meshes perfectly with their goal; to help entrepreneurs and enterprises from diverse areas connect and work together in a productive community. While many coworking spaces target young startups, Toong attracts more established businesses in different fields; it provides them with a place to work, and to network and find partners, investors, or innovators. To this end, Toong hosts many events every week for members and non-members alike, as well as training workshops on topics like fundraising and PR. They also host

bi-weekly “morning coffee” sessions, more intimate gatherings for members to share ideas and help each other.

A Fast Expansion The company has another branch on Trang Thi, which opened last September. The To Ngoc Van location opened in March, and Toong plans to expand to Ho Chi Minh City sometime this year. The Tay Ho spot was chosen for its large, attractive space, as well as its proximity to expat neighbourhoods in the upscale West Lake area. I had a chance to speak to one of Toong’s co-founders, Giang, who told me


PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

that Toong started when she and Duong, the current CEO and other co-founder of the company, were talking business at Starbucks. They realised they needed a place to meet like-minded people in a better setting than the busy coffee shop, and they knew about the success and rapid growth of coworking spaces like WeWork in New York.

A European Environment Event organiser Tanya, from Minsk, has been a member at Toong for one month. She was initially drawn to its beautifully designed space and relaxing atmosphere,

as she says the loft-style room is unusual in vertical Vietnamese buildings — it reminded her of coworking spaces back home in Belarus. Although Tanya has not yet had a chance to network with the other members, she told me that she was looking for a space to think, plan and meet people. Toong was a perfect fit. The company currently offers a variety of packages, including a ‘day tripper’ or one-day-only membership for VND90,000, and a 40-hour ‘tourist’ package at VND550,000. Various monthly packages include a regular ‘hot desk’ option, or options for a dedicated desk and other

benefits including lockers, discounted use of the conference room, and longer access hours. Individuals can rent out pretty glass-walled offices overlooking West Lake, while companies can rent larger rooms with multiple desks. Setting itself apart from other coworking spots cropping up all over Hanoi, Toong is an expanse of luxury and calm. Much like the beehive from which it draws its name, it is a place where workers can come together to flourish. — Kate Robinson Toong in West Lake is at 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. For more info click on toong.com.vn

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Briefings HCMC

Live to Dance

Every year Dancenter puts on a huge performance to showcase the work of its students. This year it’s called Imagine

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hen French-Vietnamese dance instructor Linh Rateau cofounded Dancenter in 2007, few could have imagined that almost a decade later the annual dance performances put on by her performing arts centre would be such a huge event. That they manage to draw in an audience of 1,600 people, including not only family members and aspiring dancers, but the general public as well, is a testament to the success of a school that boasts well-known instructors and both professional and amateur dancers aged from four years old and up. Now in its ninth year, this year’s show on Saturday, Jun. 4 and Sunday, Jun. 5 at the Youth Cultural House on Pham Ngoc Thach will be no different. Entitled Imagine, and with the dancers performing a range of styles, from jazz and ballet to hip hop, tap, flamenco, belly dance and high heels, the performance will bring together more than 200 dancers, from 12 years old to over 50, amateurs and professionals, locals and expats, all sharing the same passion. “We practice in the studio in front of the mirror to correct ourselves,” says Linh

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Rateau. “But the most exciting time for all of us is when we are on stage as we can share [our work] with the audience.” She adds: “Our goal is to offer highquality entertainment to our audience with beautiful costumes, professional lighting and a great variety in the programme through music and [different] dance styles.”

Inspiration Presented by Dancenter’s teenagers and adult, amateur students as well as the centre’s professional dance troupe, Urban Dance Group, Imagine has been choreographed by experienced professionals coming from as far afield as France, Canada, Denmark and Vietnam. Among them is John Huy Tran who is a professional judge and dance advisor for well-known Vietnamese TV shows including So You Think You Can Dance Vietnam, Vietnam Idol and Vietnam’s Got Talent. So well known has he become that on a recent episode of the TV game show, Nguoi Bi An, when a 12-year-old semi-professional hip hop dancer was asked who his hero was, his answer was “John Huy Tran”. Aspirations play a huge role when it

comes reaching the zenith of any profession or discipline, and the fact that John Huy Tran is now being cited as an inspiration is not only a commendation to his own work, but to the work of Dancenter where he has been an instructor for many years. Likewise, the annual show is also a source of inspiration for not only its participants, but the audience as well. This is echoed by Linh. “We chose the title Imagine because we hope the audience will be inspired by the music, costumes, movements, expressions and passion of our dancers,” she explains. “As performers, dancing allows us to pretend to be whoever we want to be, to explore different worlds, to imagine a situation sometimes based on our own experiences or sometimes based on pure fiction. Dancing gives us the freedom to be anyone, anything at any time.” Imagine will be performed on Saturday, Jun. 4 at 7.30pm and Sunday, Jun. 5 at 3pm at Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien (Youth Cultural House), 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1, HCMC. Tickets are available by emailing reservations@dancentervn.com, calling (08) 3519 4490 or online via ticketbox. vn. Tickets cost VND150,000, VND200,000 and VND250,000


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Briefings HCMC

Songkran Madness This year’s celebration of Thailand’s Water Festival in Saigon was hell. Words by Jon Aspin

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hen the biggest consequence of war is a face full of H2O, it’s no surprise that people’s loyalty becomes questionable. Arriving late at Saigon Outcast’s Get Wet Water and Music festival at the Youth Cultural House in District 1, it was clear that a battle of sorts had taken place. However, who was winning, or if that even mattered, wasn’t quite so cut and,

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er, dry. “What’s your game plan?” I asked Henrike from Holland when I bumped into her. “No idea,” she screamed above the crowd, “anybody who’s dry is a target!” “Has anyone stood out in battle?” I asked Mike from the US. “I don’t know,” he shouted, “but there is a girl over there wearing a Captain America uniform, you should go and ask her!”

Tactics and Lots of Water Resembling a kind of aquatic orgy in the middle of the city, icy-cold money-shots from brightly-coloured super-soakers were being fired in all directions by the time I arrived. The only strategy seemed to be ‘engage your enemy’, anticipate retaliation, and then brace for an all-out exchange of water-based fun. Clearly there was a damp grey line


PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

between enemies and friends, so I wasn’t sure how to react when my own editorial manager let loose on me with the full force of the water ‘law’. Sopping wet, and promising to get this article in on time, I hunkered down, then bravely strafed through the random jets that criss-crossed the battlefield. Embedding myself with some other shelter-seeking survivors, I tried to regain

my composure. Soon however, as bass-heavy music began to pump, and while water bomb grenades ‘rained’ in all around me, second mojito-in-hand, I realised that there was no escape and that before I ended up in a watery grave, I had to wave the white flag and leave. Casualties strewn around the apocalyptic car park location, I took one

last look at the scene. Brightened up by one giant inflatable castle-cum-water slide, what looked like a drenching pool in the middle, several wading pools, and of all things a mechanical bull, this festival was everything and nothing that I had expected. Songkran, you may have beaten me this year, but I’ll be back, maybe. — Jon Aspin

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Sports

Dance, Baby, Dance

Digest

The annual Vietnam University Games (VUG) competition is heating up the dancefloors at both ends of the country. Harry Hodge has more

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o you think you can dance? We’ll see what Ha Le says about that! Le is one of the judges at this year’s Vietnam University Games (VUG) competition in the dance battle category, with schools from around the country vying for dancefloor supremacy. “We see the team as a whole, we see the movement of one dancer related to his or her teammates,” says Ha Le, who judged the 2014 and 2015 versions of the event. “Each of us then gives points in four categories:

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Creativity, Technique, Teamwork, (and) Style. We announce our own winner by pointing towards them. The school team with two-thirds or all votes from the judges wins the battle.” According to the rules, each team has from eight to 12 members. Each dance battle game consists of two teams, and each team performs three rounds in turn. In the VUG 2016 competition in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, the dance battle competition will include 16 teams from four groups. After the group stage, the eight best teams from those

groups will advance through the quarter-final, semi-final and final rounds to determine the champion. “Establishing a dance team for VUG is really hard,” says Pham Hong Quynh, a dancer from the Diplomatic Academy of Vietnam in Hanoi. “We have to gather enough members, find a regular training venue and schedule for at least two months prior to the competition. “We stand for the whole school of over 3,000 students in this competition (VUG). A simple win shows that my school is better than your school, and


Hanoi to Host 2021 SEA Games The Southeast Asian Games will once again return to Hanoi in 2021, after an 18-year-long hiatus, following formal acceptance of the offer to host the games by the Hanoi Municipal People’s Committee. After Ho Chi Minh City bowed out of the running, the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism (MOCST) offered Hanoi the opportunity to host the games, to be held from November to December 2021. In announcing the agreement, Vuong Bich Thang of the MOCST said it was his understanding that Haiphong, Bac Ninh, Hai Duong and Nam Dinh will also participate in organising the event. Having previously been home to the Games in 2003, Hanoi’s second time around is especially significant, as it presents the city with the perfect opportunity to put its best face forward and show the world its true cultural identity. An estimated 11 countries will feature in 36 sports and 402 events at the 31st SEA Games, which could draw an estimated 13,000 sports enthusiasts from all parts of the globe.

Rowing Their Way to Glory

a champion title shows that my school is the best.” According to Quynh, the reason VUG stands out from other university sports competitions is that it creates a real sense of school spirit. The Dance Battles will crown a champion for Hanoi on May 8, and another for Ho Chi Minh City on May 15. Defending champions from last year’s event include Thang Long University in Hanoi and Ton Duc Thang University in Ho Chi Minh City.

VUG also features a futsal competition, with regional tournaments in Hanoi, Da Nang and Ho Chi Minh City, with finals in Ho Chi Minh City this month as well. FPT University is Hanoi’s defending champion, IUH (Ho Chi Minh University of Industry) is the southern city champ, Duy Tan University captured the Danang title last year. IUH was the national champion in 2015. For more information, visit the VUG Facebook page for updates and results.

Hanoi dominated the National Rowing Club Championships that ended in Danang on Apr. 4, writes Vietnam News. The players from the capital won 11 gold and four bronze medals to top the rankings table. Hai Duong were in second place, winning four titles, followed by Danang with one title. The championships saw more than 100 rowers from 14 cities and provinces competing in 18 events.

Vietnamese Gymnasts Clean Up in Tokyo Ha Vi secured a gold medal at the International Gymnastics Federation’s 2016 Aerobic Gymnastics World Championships, also known as the Suzuki World Cup 2016, held in Tokyo last month.

The 14-year-old girl won the medal in the individual women’s age group 12-14 after getting a total of 18.975 points. Kanon Miyajima of Japan finished second with 18.850 points, followed by Vietnam’s Vu Ngoc Anh with 18.825 points. On the same day, Vietnamese gymnasts won three silver medals, including Bui Minh Phuong in the under 18 women’s individuals, Phan Nguyen Gia Hien in the under 18 men’s individuals, and Dao Hai Giang, Phan Nguyen Gia Hien and Bui Minh Phuong in the trio category.

Swimmer Snags Sponsorship in Olympic bid Swimmer Nguyen Diep Phuong Tram has won a large sponsorship deal worth VND18 billion (US$800,000) to help her secure an Olympic berth, according to Vietnam News. The money, one of the largest sponsorship deals in this country, will be distributed over nine years for her training at local and international destinations, as well as international competitions. It’s hoped that Tram will win at least one gold medal at the regional Southeast Asian Games in 2017 in Malaysia. Tram and her coach Vo Thi My Trang will fly to the United States in June for a three-month course at the Pleasanton Seahawks Club in California. Coach Trang will be Tram’s manager, while American experts will take charge of her technical training. Tram will compete in the Southeast Asian Swimming Championships in Hanoi in May.

s date p u d r Sen out you p or ab g grou @ in ry sportnt to har .com eve vietnam word

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ToDo list HCMC

Fundraisers, underground German DJs, networking events, George’s Marvellous Medicine and a marathon

Merci in May Merci Nail Spa and Bistro, Q1 Weekdays in May Merci Nail Spa and Bistor has a great story behind it and is one of those well-kept secrets that once you’ve tried it, will undoubtedly have you telling your friends and going back again. Now, there’s even more reason to go because they’ve added nightly happy hours on food and drink. The details were a bit scant but it’s on weekdays from 5pm to 7pm and includes The Bistro Menu, which you can get over two courses (VND180,000) or three (VND220,000). They’ve also decided to throw out a group booking discount of 15 percent when you turn up in a group of four for one of their awesome manicures or pedicures. What a concept: great food and drinks while someone makes sure your hands are feet are looking their best! Merci. Merci is at 17/A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC and is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 9pm

Vin Gallery Spring Collection 2016

The ARC Fundraiser in May will help raise money to rescue pets

Berlin-based DJ Avalon Emerson will be playing at Observatory this month

Mads Monsen will be exhibiting a selection of works at Asian Hideaways Gallery this month

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Adoration by Juergen Buhre. One of the works on show at Vin Gallery

Livnwondr at Galerie Quynh is a community created art project

Endless River by Karine Guillerman Yama will be one of the works displayed at Vin Gallery this month

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Merci Nail Spa and Bistor is ramping up the deals this month

Vin Gallery, Q2 Throughout May Vin Gallery’s 2016 Spring Collection includes a selection of works from national and international artists currently represented by the gallery. International works include two pieces by Japanese Op-artist Yohei Yama, who creates large-scale intricate works on canvas, and explorations into colour and form by Australian and German artists Will Whitehouse and Juergen Buhre respectively. National artworks on show include a piece by Doan Xuan Tang, fresh from his Tho Cam II solo exhibition at the gallery, and some of the portraiture work of Doan Hoang Lam. Vin Gallery is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC. For enquiries contact the gallery on 0907 729846 or hit them up on facebook fb.com/VinGallery

Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop Snuffbox, Q1 Friday, May 6 Get down to some 1950s and 1960s beats at the Rock ‘n’ Roll Motown dance party at Snuffbox. Dress to impress at the cool new District 1 venue and you could find yourself a hero of the next week’s social pics. Hidden in a semi-dilapidated old

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building on Ton That Dam, Snuffbox is the newest late night venue in Saigon that has everybody talking, presenting a speakeasy vibe and some of the best drinks in town. So go shake your tail feather at Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop on May 6, and you might just win a prize. DJs Superkid and Stu Pot will be selecting on the night. Entrance is free for this event which starts at 10pm and goes on ‘til late. Snuffbox is at 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, HCMC

to function as public platforms for communal exchanges and connection. The theme for this first incarnation of Livinwondr in Vietnam is ‘Stars in Our Eyes: Creating a Sense of Place’. Galerie Quynh is on Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi Q1, HCMC. The opening reception will take place on Friday May 6 between 6pm and 9pm and the exhibition will run until May 14. For enquiries please contact Celine Alexandre on celine@galeriequynh.com or call (08) 3824 8284

Livinwondr

ARC Fundraiser

Galerie Quynh, Q1 May 6 to May 14

Thao Dien Coffee, Q2 Thursday, May 12

Galerie Quynh is launching a community-art project Livinwondr, curated by Vietnamese artist Hung Viet Tran. Comprising a sculptural structure made up of stainless-steel tubes that can be arranged in various ways, Livinwondr is an interactive project, “taking on configurational transformations in direct response to public surroundings”. According to the press release, “A manifestation of the interconnectedness of our modern world, for each Livinwondr project, any member of the (global) population can contribute, via an online platform, their artistic interpretation of the theme.” A variety of well-known local artists have already contributed, and once finished, the pieces are said

ARC Pets are teaming up with Relocation Vietnam to put on a business networking fundraiser and in the process raise money for ARC Pet Rescue. Including a free flow of wine and beer from 7pm to 9pm, as well as finger food such as mini burgers, pintxos and vegan sushi rolls, the other aim of the event is to help introduce ARC clients to professionals and to help integrate them into life here, make key business partnerships, allow people to meet and to make new friends. As part of the event there will be a raffle including prizes such as a second hand electric scooter, a National Gallery painting worth US$1,000 and a ‘Dine out for a Year’ deal which will give the winner a meal


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for two at a nice restaurant as well as a bottle of wine, every month for a year. But ultimately the goal is to raise US$20,000 for ARC to help them continue their work with rescued street pets. Thao Dien Coffee is at 38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, HCMC. The ticket price is VND700,000 and tickets can be purchased on Ticketbox by clicking on ticketbox.vn/event/arc-pets-businessnetworking-fundraiser-60662/34762. For further information, go to arcpets.com

Avalon Emerson The Observatory, Q4 Saturday, May 14 Berlin-based production and DJ powerhouse Avalon Emerson has some truly impressive releases under her belt. Expect her to bring her on brand of raw electronic fire to the floor. Support comes from Cora. Doors open at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm. After that, ticket price is VND150,000. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Selected Works 4

Asian Hideaways Gallery, Q2 From May 15

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Asian Hideaways Gallery opened on Mar. 25 this year and is run by four photographers: Yan Level, Pop Vichaya, Sylvain Marcelle and JP. As part of the gallery, they have a wall space set aside for small exhibitions by photographers, and first out is Mads Monsen, with his show, Selected Works. As the name implies, the exhibition consists of photographs captured around Vietnam. Living in Vietnam since 2000, Mads took an apprenticeship with a commercial photography studio in Bergen Norway, before graduating from Saint Martin’s College of Art in London, UK. He is also presently the Creative Director of Word Vietnam. Some of Mads’ work is available online at omcollectionstore.com. There

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ToDo list HCMC

is also a new collection at Saatchi Art, saatchiart.com/madsmonsen. Mads will exhibit from the middle of May until the end of June. Asian Hideaways Gallery is located at 8 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, HCMC

Nick Monaco The Observatory, Q4 Saturday, May 21 After a fantastic Thursday performance last year, Nick Monaco returns with his highly unique and exotic approach to dance music for a highlight night on the calendar. Support comes from Observatory house DJ, Nic Ford. Doors open at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm. After that, ticket price is VND150,000. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

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Network Girls

Roald Dahl’s works are timeless. At the end of this month you’ll be able to see why

Images from the 2015 edition of the Saigon Summer Ball

Last time out in Phu Quoc it was a half marathon. This year the organisers are going the whole hog

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Sierra Sam and Pascal Hetzel, coming soon to a place near you

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This month Network Girls rocks up at Merci Nail Salon and Bistro

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Nick Monaco is back! And guess where? Observatory

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Merci Nails, Q1 Thursday, May 26 Those network girls know how to party and network. Best thing, though, is they know how to pick a venue. So if you like a bit of pampering mixed with some serious social networking, you’ll be pleased to know that their monthly event for May is being held at Merci Nails, where they are giving guests the chance to indulge in nail treatments, foot and hand massages, finger food and free-flow wine. Network Girls is a monthly networking event at venues in Ho Chi Minh City that gives expat and local female working professionals in Saigon a channel to meet each other and exchange ideas on life in the city, employment and business. Members of Network Girls usually meet on the last Thursday of every month for breakfast (7.30am to 9am) or cocktails and canapés (6.30pm to 9pm). The May edition will be in the evening. Merci Nails is at 17/A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC and the event costs VND500,000. To confirm your attendance, please RSVP to Van Ly at networkgirlshcmc@gmail.com or find them on Facebook: NetworkGirlsHCMC

Sierra Sam and Pascal Hetzel The Observatory, Q4 Friday, May 27 Two massive names out of the European electronic sound world with releases on top shelf labels will be combining live performance with a DJ set in a full-on audio feast. Support comes from Observatory house DJ, Nic Ford. This is one not to miss. Doors open at 9pm and entrance is free before 10pm. After that, ticket price is VND150,000. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

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George’s Marvellous Medicine Saigon Outcast, Q2 May 28, May 29, Jun. 4 and Jun. 5 Dragonfly Theatre will be staging their next production, the Roald Dahl classic, George’s Marvellous Medicine, on May 28 and 29, and Jun. 4 and 5. George’s nasty old grandma needs teaching a lesson, and he decides the best remedy is a special homemade medicine. What follows from there will only be discovered if you come to the play, which means an afternoon of interactive theatre, a barbecue, a climbing wall, a Kepi stall and a chance to make your own Magic Medicine drink.

In short, food and fun for all the family. All performances start at 4pm and tickets are available at Kepi (63 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC) or at ticketbox.vn. Early bird prices are VND300,000 (until May 15) and VND350,000 thereafter. Under-threes go for free. Saigon Outcast is at 188 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC

Saigon Summer Ball Park Hyatt Hotel, Q1 Saturday, Jun. 4 To celebrate midsummer and escape for an evening the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City, Saigon Children’s Charity is holding its


7th Annual Saigon Summer Ball on Saturday, Jun. 4. Held to raise important funds for their work with disadvantaged children, since its inception in 2009, the Saigon Children’s Charity Summer Ball has raised almost US$370,000 to support their work in Vietnam, with thousands of distinguished guests, both individual and from many different companies, taking part over that time. Bringing together many key people from both the international and Vietnamese social and business worlds, the event is designed to be a night of great celebration and style, with the added benefit of raising much needed funds. Tickets are already selling fast so to avoid disappointment, the organisers encourage you to book your table as soon as possible. For ticket bookings, please email saigonsummerball@saigonchildren.com or call 0901 393502 or (08) 3930 3502. Tickets are priced at VND3,800,000 per person or VND38 million for a table of 10

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Phu Quoc International Marathon Phu Quoc Island Saturday, Jun. 11

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Registration is now open for the inaugural Phu Quoc International Marathon to be held on Saturday, Jun. 11 on Phu Quoc Island. Tagged the ‘Run in Paradise’, a course has been created that combines running with national park scenery and views of the ocean. Plotted through the southern half of Phu Quoc Island along one of the most scenic stretches of beaches in South East Asia, many events are scheduled — the main race of 42km (Full Marathon), plus the shorter 21km (Half Marathon), 10km, 5km and a 1km kids race, all finishing inside the grounds of Long Beach Resort Phu Quoc, where athletes are welcome to run straight into the refreshing ocean. To register and find out more, go to sportingrepublic/phuquocmarathon


IN

Just HCMC

Resorts, gourmet burger restaurants, wine cellars and Arms museums. Who says that our content isn’t eclectic? All that’s new in Saigon and beyond

Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa The first five-star resort in Bai Dai, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa officially opened for guests on Apr. 1. A 15-minute drive from Cam Ranh International Airport and a 40-minute drive to Nha Trang city centre, Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa is located on one of the most pristine white sandy beaches in Vietnam. Spread over an area of 10 hectares with 200 meters of coastline, Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa’s 226 ocean view pool villas and rooms blend contemporary style with a European-holiday concept. Allowing ample daylight, the interiors feature a soothing mix of neutral and earthy tones and subtle Vietnamese touches that adorn each living space, ensuring guests’ utmost comfort and relaxation. With all-day buffets, quality dining and plenty of spa treatments in the mix, it sounds like they’ve left no stone unturned in creating a memorable experience by the beach on Vietnam’s South-Central coastline. As part of their grand opening, Cam Ranh Riviera is offering a three-day, twonight package in a Deluxe Seaview Room with daily buffet breakfast, one dinner, one body massage and airport transfer for two people at only VND5,400,000. Valid until Nov. 30, except for public holidays. For more info click on rivieraresortspa.com

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Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa is the latest five-star resort to come to the area south of Nha Trang

The travel portal, One Click to Asia, is offering a money back guarantee if it rains too much in Laos

Pacharan is no more. Instead it is now Piu Piu

Relish brings its gourmet burger concept to District 2

Sushi and cocktails meets wagyu barbecue at Lavastone

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Good Weather Guarantee in Laos Southeast Asian travel portal One Click to Asia (OCTA) believe that the rainy season is a great time to travel to Laos — and they’re putting their money where their mouth is by offering a Good Weather Guarantee. From Apr. 1 to Oct. 31, any travellers who book a minimum seven-night trip to Laos with OCTA will get a partial refund if their holiday is disrupted by heavy rain — for every day of 3 hours or more continuous rain, the clients will receive a refund of 50 percent of their daily trip cost. “Laos and its neighbours (Vietnam, Cambodia, Myanmar, Thailand) all suffer a big drop in visitor numbers during the rainy months. So we want to knock on the head the notion that travelling to Laos during the rainy season is unpleasant or impossible,” says Laurent Granier, OCTA’s co-founder. To find out more, visit oneclicktoasia. com or email Laurent on laurent@ oneclicktoasia.com.

Vietnam Approves One-Year Visas for US citizens U.S. citizens will now have to wait for about six weeks to be able to get a new,

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2 longer-duration visa, compared to the current three-month single-entry one to enter Vietnam. But the payback is that Vietnam will issue 12-month, multiple-entry visas to American citizens who travel temporarily to Vietnam for business or tourism. Unveiled last month by Vietnam’s lawmaking National Assembly, the new visas are expected to come into force in late May or early June. U.S. Ambassador to Vietnam Ted Osius hailed the visa extension as “the latest in a series of developments which will bring the U.S. and Vietnam closer together.”

Piu Piu Located on the site formerly occupied by Pacharan, Piu Piu opened in the middle of April sporting a concept designed for ‘grown-up kids’. Built over three storeys with a different theme on each floor, the themes include The Club, which is decorated with inflatable swimming rings and a banh mi stall functioning

as a DJ stand, The Craft which serves craft beers made in Vietnam and is home to other fun activities, and The Smokey Jungle which focuses on molecular cocktails. The drink list offers the full range of drinks including cocktails (VND130,000 for a mojito), mocktails, shots, spirits by the bottle, coffee (VND40,000 for an espresso) and tea. Piu Piu is at 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, HCMC

Relish & Sons in Thao Dien Located near the corner of Xuan Thuy and Thao Dien, Relish & Sons’ new edition opened its doors at the end of April. Following the same theme as the gourmet burger restaurant’s downtown location, this new set-up boasts a minimalist interior with white brick walls, tongue-incheek wall paintings, and wooden tables and chairs. Although the menu offers other options such as breakfast, sandwiches (starting from VND135,000), and salads


(VND140,000 for a Caesar), the main focus is on burgers including the classic (VND160,000) and in-house creations such as the pho burger (VND150,000). The drinks menu mixes beer on tap (VND65,000 for a Platinum) with milkshakes, homemade sodas, coffee (VND70,000 for a latte) and tea. There is also a liquor list including cocktails (VND140,000 for a Bloody Mary), mugtails, and shots. Relish & Sons is at 105 — 107 Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC 3

Lavastone BBQ & Cocktail House

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Opened in late 2015, Lavastone is a restaurant where East meets West in terms of both the interior and the cuisine. You can either choose Western-style décor with barebrick walls on the first floor or the zen-like atmosphere on the second floor with Japanese tables and chairs, and décor to match. Focusing on Japanese specialties like wagyu beef (VND569,000 for a wagyu sirloin) and sashimi (VND479,000 for five people), the menu offers a wide range of dishes, from grilled seafood (VND99,000 for grilled oysters) and hot pots to fried rice and other side dishes (VND149,000 for crispy fried soft shell crab) There is also a bar counter at the back which serves up anything from classic shots to creative cocktails, perfect if you’re in search of a drink to match your mood. Lavastone BBQ & Cocktail House is at 96B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, HCMC. To see more, turn to our article on page 180

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IN

Just HCMC

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Mekong Merchant opens up a wine cellar for both on and off-trade customers

Ever heard of the breakfast bento? Well, thanks to The Loop’s new breakfast option, you have now.

After a three-and-a-half year hiatus, the Arms Museum opens again in Vung Tau

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Mekong Merchant Wine Cellar One of District 2’s favourite eating and drinking haunts, Mekong Merchant, has decided to exercise its penchant for good wine by opening up an on-site wine cellar. Boasting a selection of imported wine from France, Australia, Chile, Argentina, New Zealand, Spain, Italy and USA, all sold at affordable prices, customers can either buy a bottle or six to take home, have the good stuff delivered direct to the door. Even better, at just VND50,000 corkage you can buy a bottle and open it at Mekong Merchant itself. Starting at just VND225,000 for the French Plaimont Colombelle and rising to VND1,050,000 for the Henschke shiraz grenache, a full range of nonpremium wines is stocked here. So best pop in and check out what’s on offer. Mekong Merchant is at 23 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC

The Loop’s New Breakfast Menu Thanks to its excellent Hausbrandt coffee and extensive, bagel-influenced food menu, The Loop has always been a popular breakfast spot. Now this District 2 café and eatery is upping the ante with new additions to its menu.

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Serving up a range of organic bread specialities (multigrain baguettes, pumpkin seed baguettes and pretzels) as well as the likes of the breakfast burger (VND129,000) and the breakfast burrito (VND109,000), on the light and healthy side the joint now serves up homemade granola, yoghurt specialties, Swiss Bircher muesli (VND129,000) and a fruity-nutty breakfast couscous (VND129,000). However, a highlight is the newly introduced The Loop Breakfast Bento box (VND199,000), which contains breakfast specialities from around the world including veggie sticks with dips, eggs benedict, Turkish breakfast soup, a roll with cream cheese and jam, and tea, coffee or cacao. The Loop is at 49 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC

Work Permit Health Checks at Care 1 Family Medical Practice is now providing work-permit health checks at the Care 1 clinic, located in The Manor in Ho Chi Minh City. Required by the Ministry of Labor before issuing work permits and resident cards for all foreigners living in Vietnam, the move follows recent amendments to laws which had

previously limited such screenings to state-owned hospitals. Typically taking between 30 and 45 minutes a go, the check-ups are priced at VND2,250,000 and are available between 8am and 5pm Monday to Friday, and 8am and 12 noon on Saturdays. For more info, call (08) 3514 0757 or click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

Arms Museum Reopens A private antique weapons museum owned by a British expat, Robert Taylor, has reopened in Vung Tau at a new location after being closed in late 2012. The Worldwide Arms Museum, the first private museum in Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province, boasts a collection of more than 1,000 army costumes and weapons from England, France, Mongolia, Turkey, Vietnam and China, and is essentially Robert Taylor’s own private collection that he started putting together when he was just 19. Providing a much needed alternative experience for anyone visiting Vung Tau, on his death, Taylor has bequeathed the contents of museum to Vietnam. The Arms Museum is located at 98 Tran Hung Dao, Vung Tau


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ToDo

listHanoi DJs, Ratatat, comedy, Ratatat, the Hanoi Vertical Run, remarkable women and, erm, Ratatat. This month in the capital. And don’t forget Ratatat

Uncon Sci and Datodeo

Two talented DJs from LA will be rolling up for a night at ATK, bringing their extraordinarily varied vinyl sets of funk and soul. For the last five years, Uncon Sci has been travelling the world with a box of 45s and a beat machine. As comfortable behind the turntables as he is in front of a sampler, Sci delivers a very wide range of styles that are all united under a heavy psychedelic groove. As a passionate performer who has cut his teeth in the LA underground scene, Sci has performed with the likes of J-Rocc, Dorian Concept, Kode9, Keb Darge, Dam-Funk, Cut Chemist and D-Styles to name a few. On his trip to Hanoi he will be playing with fellow Los Angelesbased DJ, Datodeo a serious vinyl collector with a massive arsenal of diverse rare sounds — from Brazilian soul and funk oddities to Afro, disco, house and techno. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Entrance TBC

Maison de Tet Decor’s regular Maison Market Day returns on the second Sunday of the month, with a varied showcase of artists and stalls. Expect to find edgy designs, handmade crafts, jewellery and vintage garments as well as an organic farmers’ market. Chat with the artists directly, pick up some great quality items and enjoy the local community atmosphere. Coffee and a healthy food menu are also on offer. Maison de Tet Décor is at Villa 156 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Hanoi. The market runs from 10am to 4pm

6. US comic Turner Sparks will be performing on May 19 at ATK

Into The Dark

5. The 2015 outing of the European Food Festival in Hanoi

Nguyen Van Anh

c Shuyin Tang -

b Victoria Kwakwa -

4. The Smiths is just one of the bands who’ll have their music featured by Stratford Boys Club

Work from Vu Kim Thu’s show, Into the Darkw

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Maison Market Day is back on May 8

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Market de Maison Maison de Tet Décor, Tay Ho Sunday, May 8

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CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, May 6

Manzi, Ba Dinh May 8 to May 31 Hanoi based artist Vu Kim Thu will be displaying her unique form of miniature urban art this month. In the artist’s words: “My world is a miniature world. When travelling, I navigate a new city and its facilities by synthesizing its repeated forms, fragmentations, and architectural spaces through memory and observation. The layout of maps generates structures and orientation that I fill with linear details evoking streets, population, traffic, and architecture. I start with one small detail creating marks that spread outwards, elaborating a personal visual map of urban space. Slowly,

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2 I create a miniature city out of my drawing, paper sculptures and light.” Entrance is free and Manzi Artspace is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

Remarkable Women at Clickspace Clickspace, Tay Ho Tuesday, May 10 Co-working operator Clickspace will host an evening of discussion featuring four prominent women who have met with particular success in their chosen fields. The panel will include Victoria Kwakwa, World Bank East Asia & Pacific vice president and Shuyin Tang, an impact investor recently voted as one of Australia’s 100 most influential women. Also on the panel will be Nguyen Van Anh, leader of CSAGA, an agency advocating the rights of vulnerable women and children in Vietnam. Entry is by donation with all money raised donated to CSAGA. Clickspace is at 15, Lane 76, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi. The evening starts at 7pm

Stratford Boys Club CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, May 13 Come to ATK if you’re up for

something a little bit different, something to invigorate you and leave you refreshed and ready for the weekend. A night of tunes running the gamut from indie, punk, post-punk and ska to rock, disco, nu-disco and indie electro, the music will come from bands such as Joy Division, Sonic Youth, Pavement, Animal Collective, The Smiths, Depeche Mode, Riot Grrl and a lot lot more. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Entry is free of charge

The European Food Festival National Library, Hoan Kiem Saturday, May 14 Eurocham will host the 10th European Food Festival which it says will be bigger than ever before. It will feature some of the best known hotels and restaurants in Hanoi serving their take on European cuisine, creating a wealth of food through the creations of their talented chefs. Highlights include a cryogenic food show for children, live music, entertainment, a kids’ corner and a lucky draw with prizes such as flight tickets to Europe. Last year, there were 1,300 participants and 20 food booths, and EuroCham expects even more guests this year. For more information, contact Linh


on (04) 3715 2228 or by email on linh@ eurochamvn.org. The festival will take place at the National Library, 31 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi and will kick off at 4pm

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The Comedy of Turner Sparks CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Thursday, May 19

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International stand-up comedy is back, and once again it’s at CAMA ATK. This month the show will be headlined by US comic, Turner Sparks. Based in Suzhou and Shanghai, China, Turner started his comedy career in 2009 by founding Mainland China’s first stand up comedy group, Stand Up China. Currently a regular performer at Shanghai’s Kung Fu Komedy Club, Turner has performed hundreds of shows throughout China and Asia, most recently being awarded ‘Best of the Fest’ at the 2014 Akumal Comedy Festival in Mexico presented by Stand Up Records This will be Turner’s last tour of Asia before returning to New York to pursue his career in comedy. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. The show starts at 8pm. Entrance TBC. For more information on Turner Sparks, click on turnersparks.com

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ToDo

listHanoi

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Commonwealth Networking Event

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Press Club, Hoan Kiem Friday, May 20 The British Business Group Vietnam (BBGV) is arranging its first-ever Commonwealth networking event in Hanoi later this month. Attendees will have the opportunity to connect with more than 200 business professionals from a cross-section of sectors and from a number of different business chambers and groups in Hanoi. The price of a ticket to this event, which will run from 6.30pm to 8.30pm, is VND200,000. For more information, contact Ta Ha Lan on 0936 067757 or by email on lan. ta@bbgv.org. The Press Club is at 59a Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Salomé

5. The Hanoi Vertical Run returns to Vietnam’s tallest building on Jul. 9

4. Hong Kong ska band The Red Stripes are coming to Hanoi this month

The Opera Salomé will be screened at Cinémathèque on May 22

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3. Yes, they’re back! Ratatat are playing ATK on May 22. Not to be missed

The BBGV’s Commonwealth Networking Event takes place on May 20

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Hanoi Cinémathèque Sunday, May 22 Cinémathèque is continuing their opera screenings this month with Salomé by Richard Strauss. Based on the play of the same name by Oscar Wilde, Salomé is the story of King Herod and the love triangle created around the beautiful princess Salomé and the prophet Jochanaan. The story ends with the execution of Salomé. For more information, contact Cinémathèque directly on (04) 3936 2648. A limited number of tickets are also available through the Opera Guild — send an email to info@hanoioperaguild. com. The screening starts at 7pm and Hanoi Cinémathèque is at 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Ratatat CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Sunday, May 22 World-class talent. Wildcat mayhem.

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3 Dancefloor destructors. Ratatat is back in Hanoi, their favourite place to play in the world. The New York City experimental rock-meets-electronica duo consisting of Mike Stroud on guitar, melodica, synthesizers, percussion, and producer Evan Mast on bass, synthesizers and percussion, have been to Vietnam many times before. And they’re explosive. If you’ve already snagged tickets to the sold-out performances, expect to have a massive night of live music. Entrance is VND250,000 in advance and tickets can be purchased from CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

The Red Stripes CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Saturday, May 28 Hong Kong’s finest mod and ska band, The Red Stripes, have been on a journey to bring the sounds of ska, soul and mod to audiences across Hong Kong and Asia. Along the way they have gained a reputation as high-energy performers with an accomplished level of musicianship. In the beginning, the goal was simple, to bust out a little played genre of music with a big live band format to a new audience, and to develop their own style and sound.

Now they’re getting big Entrance is VND50,000 on the door. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

The Hanoi Vertical Run Landmark 72, My Dinh Saturday, Jul. 9 Registration has opened for Vietnam’s highest stair climbing race, the Hanoi Vertical Run, and organisers Sporting Republic expect the event to sell out quickly. Runners will embark upon the ascent of Vietnam’s tallest building, Landmark 72, facing the challenge of climbing 350 metres, 72 floors and 1,914 steps if they want to cross the finish line and enjoy the view at the top. Sporting Republic expects to attract the full complement of 500 runners across the various categories for the July 9 event. “The buzz around the race is being felt within the sporting community,” says David Shin of Sporting Republic. “We are anticipating a sell-out and are encouraging runners to sign up now so they don’t miss the chance to be a part of the incredible celebration.” Online registrations have started with a participation fee of between US$20 and US$25 per person. For more information please visit the event website: sportingrepublic.com/hanoiverticalrun


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Vietnam's favourite Brazilian restaurant.

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, DISHES W E N H N OW WIT D A NEW FEEL. OK AN O L W NE

Au Lac Do Brazil I HCMC 238 Pasteur, Dist. 3 Tel: (08) 3820 7157 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682 pr@aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist Tel: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330 pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil III Nha Trang 101 Trinh Phong Str, Tan Lap Ward Tel: (058) 351 6661 - Hotline : 0916451669 pr_nhatrang@aulacdobrazil.com wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 49


2

IN

Just Hanoi

New resorts, visa services, arts cafes and a Thai restaurant. All that’s new this month in Hanoi and beyond

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Tuk Thai is the latest Thai restaurant to hit Hanoi

The intiMate Initiative have started new sexual health education workshops at HRC

Bia Tay Ta has opened next to Hanoi Rock City

Linh and Ben have moved to Hang Buom

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An artist’s impression of the newly opened restaurant in the Novotel Suites, Food Exchange

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Bana Hills outside Danang now has itself a French village

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Ngon Villa has just opened on Food Street, which means it will be open 24 hours

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Ngon Villa Combining authentic Vietnamese street food with the elegance of a French villa is the aim of new restaurant Ngon Villa. The restaurant, which will be open 24 hours a day, can cater for up to 170 people and will offer a range of traditional dishes, from Hanoi’s own pho cuon to the specialities of Central Vietnam. A barbeque station with a variety of tempting dishes is also available. Other visitors will be attracted by the opening season promotions, which include a free flow of beer from 6pm to 7.30pm and 11.30pm to 12.30am. The restaurant is the latest venture of travel company Paradise Hotels & Cruises. Ngon Villa is at 10 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Mercure Bana Hills French Village AccorHotels has just opened a luxury resort at an altitude of 1,480 metres above sea level, set in the spectacular Bana Hills above Danang. The hotel’s architectural design is inspired by the quintessential villages of 19th-century France, surrounded by an entertainment hub, and a

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boutique mall. The resort boasts 494 rooms and suites in six categories — Standard, Deluxe, Executive Suite, Family Suite and Royal Suite. There are seven F&B outlets and a range of recreational activities, including a fitness centre, a spa offering pampering facial and massage treatments, and an indoor pool. To celebrate the opening, the hotel is offering a special rate starting at VND1,460,000++ (US$65) per night with breakfast for two, valid until May 31. Mercure Bana Hills French Village is located in An Son Hamlet, Hoa Ninh Commune, Hoa Vang, Danang, 40km from Danang Airport and train station. For more information, please visit accorhotels.com or call (0511) 379 9222

Food Exchange The newly opened Novotel Suites is offering a 30 percent discount off buffet lunches at its restaurant, Food Exchange, through to Jul. 31 as part of its opening promotion. The modern-looking buffet, with its live cooking stations, prides itself on its well-balanced dishes using natural and fresh ingredients. Further promotions include a complimentary meal for children under six, and 50 percent off for children between the

ages of seven and 12. Novotel Suites is at 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Hanoi. For more information click on novotel.com/9813 or call (04) 3576 6666

Tuk Tuk Thai Cuisine There’s a new Thai spot in town, and it’s called Tuk Tuk. Tucked away just off Hoan Kiem Lake on Hang Hanh, the restaurant is currently working out its kinks with a soft opening, but the cozy, colourful space shows major promise. Owner Mon Ovath, former chef at Madake and Ha Noi Panic, is cooking up dinner classics like pad thai and green curry for VND85,000, with plans to open for breakfast and lunch. Be on the look out for the grand opening in the coming month. Tuk Tuk Thai is at 46 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, and is currently open from 6pm to 11pm

Women’s Health Workshops The intiMate Initiative is continuing their work to expand sexual health education in Vietnam with biweekly workshops at Hanoi Rock City. Aiming to start conversations about women’s health issues like fertility and HPV, as well as address social stigmas around gender and


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6 sexuality, the small group discussions are open to all, every other Sunday at 7.30pm. The group will also use these workshops to train community youth leaders to facilitate conversations about sexual health among their peers. For more information, find The intiMate Initiative on Facebook, or go to theintimateinitiative.com

New Bia Hoi on To Ngoc Van Bia Tay Ta recently held its grand opening on To Ngoc Van to a packed house. Run by couple Huong Vu Hai and Hien of Quest Festival and Commune Cafe, the space features specialty Na Da beer and tasty Vietnamese fare, from VND20,000 to VND200,000 a dish. Aiming to be a place where Vietnamese and Westerners alike can enjoy a wallet-friendly, quality brew, Tay Ta will be open from 9am to midnight and features live music every weekend, along with the occasional Game of Thrones watching party. Bia Tay Ta is located at 33/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, next door to Hanoi Rock City

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Linh & Ben If you’re wondering what happened to Linh & Ben on Xuan Dieu, well now you know — it’s moved to Hang Buom in the Old Quarter. Boasting a similar ambience and décor of its previous incarnation — bold colours, cosy, and casual — the new eatery serves up traditional French cuisine and is open from 9.30am for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The menu includes crepes made with a machine imported from France (VND165,000 to VND195,000 a go), salads, starters and mains such as the beef tartar (VND355,000), the lamb shank (VND375,000) and goose confit (VND325,000). Linh & Ben is at 33 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. They have a daily happy hour from 6pm to 8pm with 50 percent off beers and 25 percent off spirits, as well as a range of other opening promotions

81 QT A new art café has opened on Quan Thanh that not only serves up Asian cuisine from its standard menu, but also has a separate conceptual menu where

customers pay for each dish according to what they think it’s actually worth. However, setting themselves up first and foremost as an art café, 81 QT welcomes all artists to come to work, do performances and run workshops. They are also promising exhibitions, stand-up comedy, live music and charity art auctions. With coffee and drinks costing between VND20,000 and VND65,000, check out this new venue to see what they’re up to. By the sounds of it, it could be quite a lot. 81 QT is at 81 Quan Thanh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

True Color Tours Travel agent and visa queen Ms. Lai has moved her office and business to the West Lake neighbourhood, to be closer from her clientele. Or, as she puts it, “For the joy of her expat customers.” Considering that 80 percent of her business comes from the foreign residents of Hanoi, this might not be such a bad move. True Color Tours is now at 32 Tay Ho, Tay Ho or online at truecolortours.com. You can contact Ms. Lai on 0912 223966


Insider

The Organic Farm / Food Stories / Mau Colour/ The Latin Underground / Saigon Pool Tour / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Bun Oc Co Hue / Mystery Diner HCMC / Know Your Com Tam / Club Med / Phu Yen / The Private Island / Notes From Another City: Get Outta Town / Destination Zero / The Motorbike Diaries Part 14 Photo by Bao Zoan

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Insider

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The

Orga INSI DER

nic HAN OI

Farm

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Julie Vola heads to Thanh Xuan Cooperative to get the beef — or more aptly, the fruit and veg — on growing organic food in Hanoi

W “By European standards, Vietnam cannot produce organic food. There is too much pollution in the soil, water and air. It’s more accurate to use words like ‘safe’ and ‘clean’ for products produced using minimal to no chemicals at all”

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ith the rise of headline news in Vietnam about unsafe food being found in markets and shops, one could get worried. In these times of uncertainty, many people have begun to turn to organic food in search of safe, quality products. The demand for food safety in Vietnam is huge, and the development of this market is rapid. Pham Thi Tuyet Mai, director of Naturally Vietnam, a safe and organic shop on To Ngoc Van says that we should actually not use the term ‘organic’ for any products made in Vietnam, because by European standards, Vietnam cannot produce organic food. There is too much pollution in the soil, water and air. It’s more accurate to use words like ‘safe’ and ‘clean’ food for products that have been produced using minimal to no chemicals at all.

The System of Guarantees Hanoi is surrounded by farmland. Just across the Red River, you can see wide fields of rice and vegetable farms. I have always been attracted to them, and always wanted to photograph the landscape and the people working it. One of these farms is Thanh Xuan cooperative, 6,200 square metres of safe, clean produce, situated near Noi Bai Airport. You can see and hear the airplanes landing

regularly, but it doesn’t bother the farmers anymore. It’s just a normal part of their day now. In 2009, a group of families got together to create an organic farm under the patronage of the ADDA-VNF Organic Agriculture Project. The group split in 2013, and six of its families created Thanh Xuan Cooperative. The ADDA-VNF Organic Agriculture project developed a Participatory Guarantee System (PGS) of organic standards for Vietnam, accredited by IFOAM (International Federation of Agriculture Movements Organic Farming — ifoam.org). The PGS is a method of certification that uses peer review to hold everyone in the production chain accountable, and is applied to all stages of the production process. Naturally Vietnam sources all of its vegetables from Thanh Xuan Cooperative. However, even these cannot be labelled 100% organic according to European standards, Mai tells me, but they’re as close as it gets here. Naturally Vietnam has a permanent dialogue open with the farmers to help them maintain quality, hold their procedures to the highest standards, and work to keep the environment clean.

Clean and Safe When I visited the farm, the cooperative’s leader, Dung, told me it took almost a year to prepare the farm to produce clean, safe


wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 57


vegetables. First, they had to clean the soil of the chemical pollution left by previous farming methods, and then prepare all the bio-fertilizer and new seeds. Respecting these high standards of production makes the farm work much more demanding and time consuming, as farmers have to weed the vegetable plots by hand. However, they are happier, and the income they receive is higher and more consistent, as their prices aren’t affected by fluctuations

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in the normal market. Dung has noticed a big difference in her health since she stopped using chemicals on her farm, and the environment has also benefitted from it; the air is fresher and free of chemical smells. Dung was very concerned about me taking photos at the farm, mainly because she thought I would not like it. Everyone who works on organic farms or regularly buys organic knows that these fruits and vegetables are not as big

or aesthetically-pleasing as non-organic produce. The plants at the farm are also a bit unattractive, because they can’t use chemical pesticide or fertilizer, so very hungry caterpillars tend to eat holes in the leaves. The Vietnamese are always surprised by what I enjoy photographing. They did not think I would be so happy on the farm taking photos, and eating fresh cucumbers and tomatoes right off the plant, but I had a blast.


“Dung has noticed a big difference in her health since she stopped using chemicals on her farm, and the environment has also benefitted from it; the air is fresher and free of chemical smells�

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Cover Story

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SPE

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Food Stories

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e often forget how much work goes into the food that appears on our plate or the drink that fills up our glass. Yet look at the chain of people and events that brings this all to us, and you realise the ubiquity and enormity of today’s food and beverage industry. Look even further and you see the stories behind the food. Everyone’s got an anecdote or a narrative. This cover story is dedicated to these stories. From

making tofu through to the restaurateurs who have pioneered an industry, to the inventor of pho cuon and the noodle soup restaurant that became the headquarters for an uprising. Every person we’ve spoken to has a tale to tell. And each person has done or is doing something unique. If you get joy out of eating and drinking and wonder at the passion, perspiration and dedication that makes it all happen, then this one’s for you.



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Pho The People One pho restaurant in Saigon's District 3 has a story that goes way beyond the food. Words by Si창n Kavanagh. Photos by Rodney Hughes wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 63


I

t's a particularly humid day when I make the journey to Pho Binh restaurant, and not an easy adventure at that. Still nervous on my motorbike, I struggle to navigate my way across rushhour traffic and one-way streets. Just off of Hai Ba Trung in District 3, past the pink church and down Ly Chinh Thang, sits an unassuming shop selling Northern style pho bac; one of the most common Vietnamese dishes and a dietary staple up and down the country. Taking a seat on the wooden stools at metal tables underneath the orange fans, you wouldn’t suspect that this pho restaurant offers more than just a delicious bowl of noodle soup. My eyes wander to the framed photos proudly displayed on the wall and the sign in Vietnamese declaring the restaurant a national heritage site. This isn’t just any old eatery, but a slice of history nestled in the heart of Saigon. Pho Binh was the Viet Cong headquarters from 1967 to 1968, the place where the Northern commanders met and planned the Tet Offensive of 1968.

Tucked Away Upstairs

After meeting the owner Ngo Van Lap, who inherited Pho Binh from his father, we are herded up a steep and steamy staircase and into a spacious, tiled living room. Decorating the walls are over 50 black-and-white portraits of comrades and members of the Viet Cong and Communist Party, Lap and his father Ngo Van Toai included. Within minutes of entering this treasure trove of Vietnamese history, I find myself coated in a thick layer of sweat and with arms full of articles about Pho Binh over the years and Lap’s family. Lap talks so enthusiastically about the room that was once a major political meeting place, that I feel as though I understand every word, even though I don’t speak a word of Vietnamese. Walking the length of the room, Lap explains in detail how the members of the Viet Cong would secretly meet at the restaurant, and after hours in the upstairs room, strategize and plan their next moves during a critical time of the American war. His face, filled with youth for someone 60 years old, bears a proud smile as he talks about his father the comrade, and his time in

Con Dao prison after being captured by the Americans in 1968 after the Tet Offensive.

This is About Pho

The smell of frying beef fat fills the air in the restaurant downstairs as we come to try the pho that has survived wars. The gentleman who prepares the soup gracefully lowers the beef into the broth and is eager to show us his veteran's card, before layering the noodles, beef and broth into a bowl. The secrets of the family recipe for the broth are tightly guarded as they have survived generations, relocations and life in all its facets. Each ingredient represents the generations of family as the recipe has been passed down between family members,

“Lap explains in detail how the members of the Viet Cong would secretly meet at the restaurant, and after hours in the upstairs room, strategize and plan their next moves during a critical time of the American war” from its Northern origins to its home in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. The northern (pho bac) and southern (pho nam) styles evolved separately as Vietnam was divided into two from 1954, and the differences are still evident today. The distinctive characteristics of Northernstyle pho are the lack of sugar in the broth, chopped beef instead of sliced beef, and serving up the noodles without herbs and bean sprouts. Today, when you order the pho

bo at Pho Binh, you will receive a generous plate of mint, Thai basil, lemon, chillies and sauce to appeal to southern Vietnamese customers, but the family recipe remains otherwise unchanged.

Hidden in Plain Sight

The location of Pho Binh is only 10 minutes away from downtown Saigon. Lap proudly describes the strategy of using the restaurant as “safely hiding in the most dangerous spot”, right next door to US offices and having Southern Vietnamese generals frequently visiting for lunch. Lap’s father, Ngo Van Toai arrived in Saigon in 1944, six years before his wife and family followed him to the South. Toai, a resistance member of the Viet Minh and comrade in the Viet Cong, purchased the house that would eventually become Pho Binh in 1967 with financial help from the Viet Cong. Many Northern Vietnamese people moved to the South during Operation Passage to Freedom after the Geneva Accords of 1954. “It was common to find Northerners opening restaurants in the South before and during the war,” remarked Lap. After Toai was captured and the Americans raided Pho Binh in February 1968, the restaurant closed. But it reopened in 1975 after the prisoners of war were released, and the war had ended. Thus, the Ngo family continues to serve up bowls of history every day.

North Meets South in a Ceramic Bowl

Pho is reminiscent of Vietnam in more ways than one. From the separate styles of Northern pho bac and Southern pho nam, to the influences of French, Chinese and local culinary styles, it is a dish that is uniquely Vietnamese. The name of this restaurant, Pho Binh or “Peace Soup”, also hinges on that harmony between north and south. When I ask Lap if he has visited his home in the north, he laughs as he responds: “Saigon is my home, it is where I was born.” Then he stops and reflects: “But I grew up with a different perspective, a Northern perspective.” Pho Binh is located at 7 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3, HCMC. It is open daily from 9am to 9pm


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The Tofu Widow Vu Ha Kim Vy gets into conversation with Ly Thi Nhat to find out how tofu has become a livelihood for her and her family. Photos by Bao Zoan

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lthough Tan Phu Market was renovated more than 10 years ago, its traders prefer to set up on its outskirts. Ly Thi Nhat’s stall, nestled in one of the main surrounding streets, is just big enough to have a front table to display her products and a boilingoil pan for her daughter-in-law to fry cubed tofu. On the table lay several stacks of fried and white tofu, a few tubes of silken tofu, a dozen bags of soya milk and bean curd sheets. “Her tofu is the best in this market!” my mother says while waiting for her to pack three bags of soya milk. Nhat is a 55-year-old widow; her husband died when she was 38, leaving

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seven children, a small house and a piece of rice field in Can Tho to her. She gives a distant look as she starts the story of her life.

The only Source

“I couldn’t feed my children with a small piece of paddy and my eldest child was only 17 at that time,” she says. Thanks to a sum of money sent by her sister who was living in the US and the proceeds from selling everything she had in Can Tho, she and her children moved to Saigon for a better life. “I learnt how to make tofu through my sister-in-law when my husband was still alive, but I was never serious with it,” she

continues. Yet since her husband’s death from a heart attack, tofu has become her only source of income. When she and the children arrived in Saigon, she refined her tofu-making skills through a recipe taught to her by her niece. For nearly 17 years that recipe has been her livelihood as she’s watched her children mature, get married and have their own children. Tofu making is a hard job. It’s time consuming and the recipe must be followed to the letter. Tofu needs to be made at 1am to be ready for the early market, which usually starts at 5am. That is not counting the 1st and 15th of the lunar month, the days when there is a new moon and full


moon, a time when the consumption of tofu rises significantly. On these days, Nhat starts work at 9pm. “Thank God, my eldest son has been helping me out a lot,” she says. “He and his wife now take care of the cooking process. I am in charge of selling the product.”

Expansion

Nhat pauses for a while, recalling the time when she carried her tray of tofu around Tan Phu market. She had just moved to Saigon. “People usually have their favourite suppliers and they didn’t know me,” she says. “That was the reason why sales were slow.”

Refusing to accept defeat, she decided to rent a small back-street spot that eventually became her own. Aiming to have a frying section on-site, she rented the spot next to her location from a cousin. “I also bought that second spot two years ago,” she says. “We use 80 kilograms of soybeans for making tofu and other soya-related products every day. That is already a lot of work for the three of us. We just focus on family-sized consumption,” she replies when I asked her about next step for the business.

The Recipe

The recipe, originally from Ha Nam Ninh (now Nam Dinh and Ninh Binh), requires more than three hours for the mixture of boiled

soya milk and an acidid liquid (normally vinegar) to form white curds, which are then moulded into rectangles. This process produces less tofu and is time-consuming, but doesn’t require the addition of gypsum, which some believe is a health hazard. “All the ingredients have to be bought, cooked and consumed in one day, as this process cannot make the tofu last long,” explains Doanh. “My mother and I don’t want to expand into a factory-sized business,” he adds. “When you need a large of amount of tofu to be made in a short time, you need to use gypsum, which is cheaper than the way we are making tofu now. Profits are higher, but to us morality is more important.”

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Al Fresco’s: An Unlikely Success Story The first Western restaurant chain in Vietnam, this year the Al Fresco’s Group turns 20. Emily Petsko speaks to the chain’s founder, Jacko, to hear their story

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I

f you find yourself at the original Al Fresco’s restaurant on Hanoi’s Hai Ba Trung, and you suddenly forget what country you’re in, don’t panic. That’s the intended effect. The tables are dressed in white cloths, air conditioners pump cold air into the room, and Heinz ketchup and house-made hot sauce are stationed where the pickled garlic would normally be. A wide-screen television suspended from the ceiling plays Al Fresco’s advertisements on loop. “Is everything okay with your meal?” my waitress, Nhung, asks me several bites into my chicken fajitas. The reason I know her name is because she told me to call her if needed, and just as a reminder, a nametag is pinned to her shirt. No “em oi” necessary. While the dining experience is quintessentially Western, I’m surrounded by Vietnamese customers — young couples sharing a bowl of pasta, middle-aged men drinking beer, and office colleagues gabbing more than eating. It wasn’t always this way. When it opened 20 years ago, the overwhelming majority of customers were Western expats. Now, about 70% of diners are Vietnamese, and Al Fresco’s Group restaurants — including other chains like Jaspas and Pepperonis — number 52 in Vietnam. The road to become the first Western restaurant chain in Vietnam was a bumpy one, pockmarked with many potholes along the way. There were language barriers, a lack of freezers (staff stored meat in their homes), and even a failed poisoning attempt by a disgruntled chicken supplier. The odds were stacked, but then again, so were the heaping plates of BBQ ribs that kept customers coming back.

Down Under Roots

Craig “Jacko” Jackson, an Aussie with an extensive background in hotel and restaurant management, moved from Hong Kong to Hanoi in 1996 to open Al Fresco’s. He had known his business partner, Wayne Parfit, since he was 10 years old, and a Vietnamese woman they knew agreed to serve as the legal restaurant owner. As for why they chose to start a business

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“‘I had rat poison put in chicken breasts and I had broken glass put in things, like crushed-up glass put in food items from the market because I stopped buying from [one supplier] and bought from another one instead” in Hanoi — where anti-foreign sentiment was still present two decades after the American War had ended — Jacko says it was all about the connections. “We had a good Vietnamese partner,” he explains. “That’s always the tricky thing in Asia because the laws were that foreigners couldn’t own businesses, so we needed to have a very trustworthy and honourable person, which is not that easy to find. So wherever you find that person, that’s where you should probably set up.” The idea was to create a “Western comfort food” restaurant with Australian hospitality and a menu boasting pizza, pasta, tacos, steaks and ribs. “That was very popular when we first opened because everyone was sick of rice and noodles,” says Jacko. At the time, only two restaurants in Hanoi served Western cuisine, and both were focused on top-end clientele. Jacko, however,

had other ideas. He wanted to make Al Fresco’s more affordable. Yet getting things going wasn’t easy. Without adequate storage space, staff had to store imported steaks and salmon fillets in their own freezers, and bicycles were the only mode of transport. Poor English among waiting staff was another issue, especially as Jacko’s policy was to slash the tabs of entire parties if just one order was wrong. As it turns out, spaghetti vongole sounds a lot like spaghetti bolognese. “There’d be three or four meals and one would be a mistake,” he recalls. “I’d free the whole table because that was the standard that I was aspiring to.” Business picked up steadily, but he didn’t take a salary for the first year of operations. Yet more troubling were the attacks. Everyone was struggling to get by in those days, and competition was fierce. “I had rat poison put in chicken breasts,” says Jacko, “and I had broken glass put in things, like crushed-up glass put in food items from the market because I stopped buying from [one supplier] and bought from another one instead.” Another supplier tipped him off about the poison, and other locals he had befriended offered their help along the way. “If I didn’t have Vietnamese protecting me, I wouldn’t have been able to stay open. The only way was to have local help.”

Pizza Revolution

At some point along the way, Al Fresco’s gained local trust and won over Vietnamese taste buds in a big way. Pepperonis restaurant, which opened in Hanoi in 1997, started offering an all-youcan-eat buffet for only VND20,000. It was the first buffet in Hanoi outside of the five-star hotels, and locals had eyes bigger than their stomachs. “They’d bring in plastic bags and start sweeping the food off the buffet into the bags to take home,” says Jacko. “It was a very tough learning experience.” Yet, for most Hanoians, pizza wasn’t love at first bite. In Vietnamese it was called a “cake” and people would say: “You only need one slice and you’re full.” Cheese turned out to be an acquired taste.


But after serving up tasty pizzas with ample toppings for several years, locals started to change their minds. The group ran a survey before opening the first Al Fresco’s restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City in 2003 and asked Vietnamese to rate how much they liked pizza. In Hanoi, pizza polled between 8 and 10, with 10 being the highest. In Saigon, the highest rating was 4, and most Vietnamese ranked it a 2 or 3. Jacko attributed this to the fact that Vietnamese in Saigon had only eaten “crazy bad pizzas” with knock-off ingredients like Happy Cow cheese. “We came to Saigon thinking that we were gonna kill it because everyone’s going to be so Western-oriented,” he says. “But actually, Saigon was a whole new experience because

[people] had been served quite sub-standard food here for a long time.” By that time, Al Fresco’s Group was already operating a handful of successful restaurants in Hanoi, and they wanted to try their luck down south. It paid off. They continued to win over both expats and local customers, and the number of pizza lovers seemed to grow by the day. They later opened more restaurants in Saigon and one in Danang.

Two Decades Later

For their 20th anniversary this autumn, Al Fresco’s will host special promotions and giveaways. They plan to display their original menu to prove how little their prices have fluctuated over the years. Some prices

have even come down. A large pepperoni pizza that originally cost US$10.50 (VND236,000) is now priced at just under US$10. Despite facing heavy competition from other Western restaurants, Jacko says Al Fresco’s hasn’t taken much of a hit. In fact, it seems just as popular as ever. “Vietnamese can’t believe that a foreigner has survived in Vietnam,” he explains. “Any Vietnamese will just say ‘There’s no way that a foreigner can do this’, but we have.” He adds: “We’ve been lucky. We’ve had a good Vietnamese partner and my staff swung over to help me and support me while they were getting a lot of pressure to not help the foreigner. I was very lucky that my staff stood by me.”

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Confessions of a Wine Supplier Ever wondered what it's like supplying wine in Vietnam? Billy Gray catches up with Jeremie Courivault, one of the best known faces in the local wine industry. Photos by Julie Vola

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J

eremie Courivault of The Warehouse in Hanoi is among the growing list of wine suppliers in Vietnam. Working in the industry for well over a decade he has a good idea about what it’s like supplying wine in a country that’s still developing a palate for the good stuff. Moving to Vietnam when he was just 20, the goal was to set up a restaurant with a friend from back in France. “He was doing seasonal work,” recalls Jeremie. “So I left three months earlier than him and waited for him to finish the season and come out to join me. It’s been almost 20 years and I’m still waiting for that season to finish.”

Sowing the Seeds

Once settled, he didn’t waste time getting involved with the local service industry, working in restaurants and bars and learning English and Vietnamese as he went along. Jeremie soon began supplying wine, but back in the early 2000s, as he says: “All you could get was fake 1997 Bordeaux, but that’s changed — we’re fortunate in Vietnam that the market is now very legitimate.” Still, the wine industry in Vietnam is certainly in its development stages, and often customers want the biggest, boldest and most expensive bottle available just to make a statement. This is something that Jeremie is determined to change. “There’s so much out there,” he says. “I do try to suggest other wines, but there’s a fine line. I want to advise my clients, but at the same time, if they like a heavy red every time, then that’s what they like.” Since 2000, Warehouse has expanded across Vietnam and beyond, with bases in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Danang and a strong presence in Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar. They have regular wine tastings in their shops and hold wine dinners in some of the most exclusive venues in Vietnam. Pairing the right wine with different cuisine is one of the fundamentals of the industry, and something that Jeremie has been practising for years, and with some quite exotic dishes — think rat, turtle, scorpions and larvae. “Some of the food matching I’ve done has been crazy,” he says. “Once I was eating at a restaurant and they brought out a hotpot and there was this rattling sound going on — you assume that the hotpot is already boiling so I opened the lid to see what was inside. ‘No!’ the staff were yelling, but it was

“‘In this business the customer is always right, so I just sat back and smiled’” too late, the lid was open and these prawns were leaping out for their lives all over the table.”

No Sour Grapes

Jeremie’s clientele has grown over the years to include a diverse bunch from some of the best hotels and restaurants in town, to ambassadors, businessmen, the occasional Vietnamese pop star and just about any wine lover in Vietnam who knows how to read a map. In the wine industry, Jeremie points out, you have to know more than just a lot about wine, you need to know your customers and their tastes. Jeremie has built personal relationships with his over the years, sharing his passion and his knowledge for everyone’s favourite grape juice. He cites an incident with some highprofile dignitaries. “A friend of mine was hosting a dinner for some very important guests and of course she wanted everything to be of the highest standard. She’d prepared a nine-course meal and called me asking for some of my best wines; everything was set to perfection. “The guests arrived, already drunk, and wanted all the food served in three courses. When the wine was offered they passed it up and got their driver to go and pick up two bottles of whisky instead. She was on the phone crying afterwards. But the lesson is that you have to know your customer, and what they want.”

bought a very nice, and very expensive bottle of red wine from me,” he laughs. “They poured a glass each and then cracked an egg, separated the white from the yoke and mixed it into the wine.” He adds: “In this business the customer is always right, so I just sat back and smiled.” A little taken aback by this innovation I ask him, have you tried it yourself? “God no… I love wine too much!” For more info on The Warehouse, click on warehouse-asia.com

Ripening

It’s clear that Jeremie has learnt a lot over the years from being not just a survivor of, but also a pioneer of Vietnam’s wine supplying industry. “We want people to learn about wine, we want people to explore what’s out there.” In the business of supplying wine, you meet all kinds of characters. Some are more memorable than others, some make more of a mess, and some push the boundaries just when you thought you’d seen it all. “I’ll never forget, these two guys once

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A Day in the Life of a Five-Star Chef No, we’re not talking about a Michelin-five-star chef. No such thing. This kitchen fiend is Raphael Szurek, grand fromage at Hanoi’s JW Marriott. Words and photos by Julie Vola

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riginally from Paris, 31-year-old Raphael Szurek began his career in the 3-Michelin-star restaurant, Le Grand Vefour, under the tutelage of Chef Guy Martin. In 2006, Raphael moved to Guangzhou, China for a six months’ internship at the newly opened Novotel and from there he had the opportunity to work at The Ritz Carlton when it was opening. When it was time for him to move on, Raphael contacted the JW Marriott and was offered work on the opening of The French Grill. He recently received the Rising Star Culinary Excellence Award for Asia-Pacific from the JW Marriott. Stylistically, Raphael creates a modern French cuisine and enjoys combining Vietnamese, Korean and Japanese elements. The process of creating a new dish can vary from 10 minutes to three weeks, Chef

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Raphael says. Sometimes, he says, you have a stroke of genius, and come up with a dish that works right away, but usually from the first idea to the final dish, trial and error have evolved the finished product beyond recognition. “Creating a dish is an intellectual process,” he says. “I am not reinventing cuisine, but you can take from other people’s techniques and put your own twist on it, and that’s what’s nice. Dishes evolve over time, but people come to eat a chef’s full cuisine, not just one dish in particular.”

Groundwork

First things first; deliveries. Ingredients usually come in a refrigerated truck. If not, the temperature of the product is tested, and if it reads over a certain temperature, it’s rejected. Deliveries are massive, but trickle in slowly throughout the morning.

The hotel juggles 70 different suppliers for their restaurants, and it can be hard to keep ingredients consistent, as some suppliers buy per container. The French Grill spends VND20 million to VND30 million per day in food orders. The most expensive item is the Japanese Wagyu beef, at VND16 million for four kilograms. After the meat is prepared in the kitchen, it is preserved using oil, which avoids damage from freezing, and the grey colour that results if it is vacuum-sealed and deprived of oxygen. “I like to look for new products,” says Raphael. “Sometimes I go to the market with the product purchaser to find interesting seasonal ingredients. One of the most unique ingredients on his list is bottarga — a salted, cured fish roe from Italy. The chef also tries to order local whenever possible; his mozzarella and


burrata comes from Pizza 4P’s, who make their own cheeses in Dalat. When the deliveries stop coming, Raphael heads to his office that he shares with the other chefs to do his more mundane, yet necessary, tasks; paperwork. Luckily, Raphael’s culinary school in Lyon was focused more on food than administration, but a year of F&B management training prepared him to deal with this side of the business, too. The JW Marriott culinary team consists of 140 chefs and 29 stewards. There was a learning curve for Raphael’s team, but after two and a half years together, they’ve become a well-oiled machine, and Raphael a happy chef. He describes it as a team sport, with each person having an important role.

Roo ‘n Shiraz

After his paperwork, Chef Raphael heads to the kitchen. Today, he is sharing one of his new dishes with us: Kanga Banga, a

kangaroo, shiraz and rosemary sausage, served with beetroot and goat cheese. Last year, some of the chef’s Australian patrons asked if the French Grill could do something for Australia Day, and what’s more Aussie than kangaroo? With his affinity for sausage-making, he decided to challenge himself to create a sausage with kangaroo meat. The recipe consists of kangaroo meat, lamb fat, Australian shiraz, rosemary, salt and the kitchen’s own mix of white, black, pink and green pepper, roasted in-house. The chef uses a hand grinder to mix the meat, since the electric grinder is not big enough. This process takes him a good 20 to 30 minutes for 3kg of meat, and a lot of elbow grease. He then stuffs this mixture into washed and salted pork entrails. The sausage is cooked for around 10 minutes. Chef Raphael plates freely, no specific design in mind, just following the compositional rule of odds, and adding

garnish intuitively; a piece of beetroot here, a bit of green and radish there. He adds a few drops of beetroot coulis, and then finally, the goat cheese is delicately crumbled on top. The result is a verdant plate of green and red, with touches of white. Australian cuisine is relaxed, says Raphael, and it’s a bit like a deconstructed Australian BBQ with salad. At 1.30pm, the chef’s team arrives, and Raphael holds a quick meeting to brief them on the day ahead. Then the whole team heads to the kitchen to begin their prep work. Later that afternoon, Chef Raphael’s family comes by to surprise him. Clement, Raphael’s one-year-old son, is at home in his dad’s restaurant: today Chef Raphael has some time to spend with his son, and show him the ropes of his job. Raphael is also a talented musician and will often let loose his hidden talent, busting out a few melodies on the piano. At 6pm, service starts. The kitchen opens and the show begins. I let myself out discreetly, so the chefs can do what they do best.

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The Invention of Pho Cuon When a particular type of spring roll exploded on the Hanoi streetfood scene, many people claimed or were claimed to be its inventor. Billy Gray goes in search of the source of pho cuon. Photos by Trung Del 76 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com



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ander amongst the narrow streets of Ngu Xa Village and you'll soon discover the warm smell of sizzling beef being wrapped into bite-size rolls with vegetables, accompanied bya notoriously tasty dip made of fish sauce, garlic, chilli and herbs — a dish synonymous to the area surrounding Truc Bach Lake; pho cuon. According to urban legend, the springroll like pho cuon was invented one summer night 10 years ago, in a pho restaurant in Ngu Xa village. Around a table littered with empty beer bottles, some customers were drinking late into the night watching a football match on TV and asked the owner for some food. When the owner realised she’d run out of broth, she decided to see what she could put together with the remaining ingredients — and using uncut pho noodles as rice paper, just like that that, pho cuon was born. We spent the afternoon in Ngu Xa village talking to some restaurant owners, and chowing down on the tasty pho rolls.

Wrapping up the Myths

We began our search at Chinh Thang Restaurant, home of 61-year-old Vu Thi Chinh. Mrs Chinh is widely considered to be the inventor of pho cuon and we were eager to hear her side of the story. “I had a lot of regular customers who would complain that it was too hot for a steaming bowl of noodle soup. I would try this recipe or that, get some feedback and eventually people turned all the way to pho cuon — that was in 2000.” We ask her about late night revellers and running out of broth. She smiles: “That story is not true. Maybe some restaurants when they ran out of broth tried to copy pho cuon.” As we set off to leave, Mrs Chinh motions

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to a picture hanging from the wall in her store front. It’s of her holding an award in front of her shop. She proudly explains that she’s been on national television three times to talk about pho cuon: “The people in other cities heard about it back then and they were interested. ‘What is pho cuon?’ they would ask?” Since then she has built a loyal following around the world. Mrs Chinh lights up as she recalls: “I have customers from Australia, Japan, Thailand, and they come by whenever they visit Hanoi — one of them drew me this picture,” she says, revealing a sketch of her cooking the meal in the back of her restaurant. “He was from the US.”

Not So Special After All

Hearing the supposed inventor’s humble side of the story, we then set further into our investigation and spoke with some of the other restaurant owners in the area. Hung Ben, whose restaurant is around the corner from Chinh Thang explains that: “Before, there was a lady in this area who showed me the same thing.” Hung goes on to explain the very same version of the pho cuon yarn that we’d heard about before. It seems that this dish was around in one form or another before its incarnation on the TV screen. However long pho cuon has been around, it appears we will never really know for sure. It could be said that a dish as simple as this one must have been made in some form or another for many years — as Mrs Chinh decided back in 2000, it’s just not logical to be eating a steaming bowl of noodles in the height of summer. How many times have you put something together with those obscure leftover ingredients and later discovered there’s a name for it? Pho cuon is just another logical step in the evolution of Vietnamese cuisine.



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his is the second time I’ve been to Banh Mi Bay, in London’s Holborn area. And it’s the second time I’ve sat in this contemporary yet traditional banh mi café with a glass of café sua da in hand. It’s not Vietnam. But swap out the environment and the location, and the senses on the palate are identical. From 15 years ago when something that roughly equated to ‘Vietnamese’ fare was cooked up by Chinese immigrants from Saigon’s Cho Lon, to today, where the taste is authentic, Vietnamese cuisine in London has come on leaps and gastronomic bounds. Sat opposite me is Tra Vinh-born Phan Thi Anh Loan. Besides being the woman behind Banh Mi Bay, she also holds another accolade — Loan was responsible for bringing the Vietnamese baguette to the UK. Arriving in England as a refugee when she was just a few months old, the business studies graduate and former business analyst was brought up in Camberwell in south London. But yearning to leave the world of corporate business, 10 years ago she set up her first café — in Camberwell. “I just wanted a change of lifestyle,” recalls Loan. “I was looking for different things to do. But the main reason was because during that time there wasn’t anywhere you could go and buy a banh mi. You had to make it at home. It takes hours to cook and marinate the meats, and prep all of your vegetables, and it just seemed a lot of effort for a few banh mi.” What finally convinced her were trips to Paris, where there were a few Vietnamese shops selling really good baguettes. So, setting up in South London, and baking the banh mi in house as well as making xa xiu (barbecued pork), pate and do chua (pickled vegetables) on site, Loan was the first person to bring banh mi to the UK. The resulting baguette is twice the size of its Vietnamese namesake, but beyond that, says Loan, the only difference is that “we use organic flour and a western flour improver rather than a Vietnamese one, just so it meets the standards here.”

Banh Mi for the People

With any new business there is an unforeseen set of challenges. Yet for Loan, selling the concept of banh mi to the British market was the easy part. “There are a lot of international people living in the UK and people are openminded,” she explains. “There’s also a lot of international travel and Vietnam is a really popular destination. So, people knew about banh mi already. It’s just they weren’t able to enjoy it because it wasn’t there in London.” Rather, it was managing staff, health and safety and “just things that I hadn’t experienced before” that she found tough. In addition, customers from all over London began frequenting the café, imploring her to set up in town or in other parts of the city — despite its proximity to Brixton, Camberwell is not a location accessible to most people in London.

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Banh Mi Bay Slammed at lunchtime and busy at night, Phan Thi Anh Loan’s café, Banh Mi Bay, is the best known banh mi outlet in London. It also brought the Vietnamese baguette to the UK. Words by Nick Ross

So after three years she sold the business and opened up in Holborn, a short walk from the British Museum. Since then she’s started a second café in St. Paul’s, right in town, as well as a take-out banh mi joint in Fitzrovia near Oxford Street. Yet it’s not just banh mi that Loan is selling, but a selection of “nice, easy, typical Vietnamese dishes” such as spring rolls, banh canh, pho, bun thit nuong and chicken curry. For the UK, prices are reasonable, too. Selling at £6 (VND185,000) a go for the banh mi if you eat in-house (takeaway is cheaper), the other Vietnamese fare weighs in at around the £7.50 (VND230,000) mark. Add to this a range of weekly specials, where customers can “try dishes from different regions of Vietnam”, this is tasty, home-style Vietnamese fare served up in a casual yet contemporary setting. Yet, as Vietnamese cuisine has become more popular and been inducted into the mainstream, a new factor has entered the market; competition. “Because we’re so successful, it attracts other competitors,” says Loan. “So, we have new entrants in the market and we have to compete with them as well.”

The key, she explains, is to introduce new products — Loan does this twice a year — and to concentrate on quality. She adds: “In London, the service has to be good as well.”

Obsessed with Coffee

My coffee is finished and I’m hankering for another glass, but I’ve already gone through two café sua da. My head’s starting to spin. As we chat, Loan mentions that what I’ve just drunk is their own, branded coffee. “We actually own the Saigon Coffee Company, and we supply this to other restaurants as well.” She adds: “It’s not a major business for us, but it’s something that we have a real passion for. It’s very typical of Vietnamese culture and it’s just ingrained in how we were raised as well. When we were kids my mum used to make us iced coffee.” Despite having grown up in the UK, when it comes to her roots, there are some things that Loan just can’t get out of her blood. One of them is banh mi, and the other, naturally, is coffee.

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A Day in the Life of a Street Vendor Carrying two baskets over her shoulder, Van is a mobile street vendor. Vu Ha Kim Vy and Bao Zoan spend a day with this purveyor of banh trang tron

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an makes her living off the street, struggling to put food on the table in the name of her family. Doing so means selling a range of snacks from the recesses of her basket, but her key dish is banh trang tron, cut up rice paper mixed with mango, dried beef, quail eggs,

11am. Van leaves home to start her normal working day

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dried shrimp, dried squid and chilli. To make ends meet means carrying 40kg baskets from 11am to 11pm around the streets of downtown Saigon. These baskets have been her only source of income for more than 20 years for her four children and a husband back home in Binh Dinh. It's tough, it’s

tiring, but it works. Her oldest child is now a second-year student taking Environmental Studies at university in Quy Nhon. Van’s only wish is that she will be able to carry these baskets to feed her children until her youngest child, who is now in Grade 7, gets to college.

11.18am. She gets the first customer. The young lady orders one bag of banh trang tron with lots of chilli

11.23am. Making the dish takes time — five minutes. Van ties the handles of the banh trang tron bag together and hands it to the customer


11.45am. Another order. Van prepares to cut up the rice paper

11.46am. She adds kumquat juice...

11.47am. and two quail eggs to the mixture

12.12am. Van stays a bit longer at her first spot to wait for her next client. Her baskets are still laden with snacks

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1pm. Time to move on. Van heads to Nguyen Thai Hoc in District 1 in search of more customers

1.18pm. Van settles in a new spot. She has a lot of regulars who know where she’ll be set up at any given time of the day

8.48pm. It’s now evening and after a day on the streets in a dozen different places, Van reaches Co Giang. She’s made a fair amount of sales and her baskets are less heavy

9.38pm. Van sells another portion of banh trang tron. The young customer wants to have more dried squid and less mango

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10.22pm. It’s getting late. Van moves to her final pitch hoping for a few last minute sales

11.02pm. Will a few more clients will show up? Van waits. Ten more minutes

10.45pm. Van waits for more clients. Her baskets are much lighter now as she has sold quite a lot banh trang tron as well as a range of other snacks

11.12pm. She’s had enough. It’s been another long day and she throws in the towel. Van starts heading home. The consolation of spending 12 hours on the streets is that her baskets are now much lighter than when she started out

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Insider

“‘Graffiti and street art have become a commercial phenomenon. It’s now socially and commercially accepted. Back in London, it’s still very ‘gangsterish’”

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INSIDER

HANOI

A street artist crew is decorating the streets of Hanoi, to good effect. Words by Jesse Meadows. Photos by Julie Vola

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1

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1. Mate Two 2. Alfie 3. Mudrock 4. Phed

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“B

ack home, you’re expected to paint certain things. Here, there’s not a mature movement. I’ve found the freedom to paint what I want,” says Matthew ‘phed’ James, a 44-year-old street artist from London. He came to Hanoi on a whim with an English-teaching girlfriend, and stayed because he’d found a place that wanted to pay him for his art, and a team of artists to make it with. That crew is Mau Colour, made up of 29-year-old Sam (aka Mudrok) and 25-yearold ‘Mate Two’ of England, and 25-yearold Alfie (aka ETZA) from Edinburgh. In Hanoi’s small-yet-burgeoning scene of street artists, it didn’t take long for the guys to team up, combining their painting, graphic design and illustration skills to tackle both personal and commercial projects together. “There’s so much work. It just seems to keep coming,” says Sam. “Graffiti and street art have become a commercial phenomenon. It’s now socially and commercially accepted. Back in London, it’s still very ‘gangsterish’,” Matthew says. “Yeah, you’re painting, and someone will pull up in a car and jump out,” adds Sam.

Intriguing This territorial aggression doesn’t yet exist in Hanoi, where the concept of street art is still relatively new, and the spray can is

more closely associated with motorbike paint jobs than graffiti on a wall. When the team goes out to paint, they often attract an older crowd with not much to do but sit and watch for hours. “They’re literally watching you really close up. They’ve never seen a spray can used artistically, so they’re intrigued,” says Matthew. Sometimes, when the police are called, the residents of a neighbourhood will vote, by a show of hands, on whether or not a piece can stay. “Here, it hasn’t started as a plague with evil connotations like in Europe and America, where originally, it was sort of criminal. They don’t quite get it, the residents and the police, and I don’t think they’ve actually got a charge [for it],” he says. “My friend who lives in Danang has a Vietnamese wife, and she’s saved a message in his phone in Vietnamese that says, ‘Can I paint on your house? We’ll do it for free’, and people say ‘Yeah, go for it’,” Alfie says.

“This territorial aggression doesn’t yet exist in Hanoi, where the concept of street art is still relatively new, and the spray can is more closely associated with motorbike paint jobs than graffiti on a wall”

Loaded Of course, the crew must be culturally sensitive. No painting on government buildings or pagodas, and definitely no loaded imagery, like political figures or naked women. Even the image of an eye can be taboo — the group has a mural on Dang Thai Mai where locals repeatedly paint over the

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eyes of their characters out of superstition. The public may just be pleasantly amused by Mau Colour’s work, but businesses are seeing the value in it. The group’s first big commission was the interior of new megaclub 1900 on Ta Hien in the Old Quarter, and they recently finished the longest mural in Vietnam on the temporary wall around a new international retail development in Yen So Park. “We broke it down into 70-metre sections, so there’s Japanese, Vietnamese, American, Korean. It was all relating to the culture and nationality of the businesses there,” says Sam. In total, the mural covers 400 metres. With art going out and money coming in, the group sees another kind of opportunity for their work. “I’d like to have an area where we can do [regular] workshops with kids. You can actually teach quite a lot of life skills through art,” says Matthew. The mother of one of his students recently pulled him aside. “She said, ‘That workshop made such a difference. My son now looks at the world in a different way.’ That’s the sort of lightbulb moment that I love.” For more info, click on maucolour.wordpress. com or email mau.colour@gmail.com

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Insider

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INSIDER

NATIONAL

The Latin Underground Salsa is not new to Vietnam — it’s been here for almost a decade. But now this much-loved dance form is huge. Words by Emily Petsko and Siân Kavanagh. Photos by Julie Vola and Rodney Hughes

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allroom dancing has traditionally been the most popular form of recreational dance in Vietnam, but salsa is shimmying its way into parks, bars and studios in this country’s biggest cities. Now, if you look in the right places in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, you can find crowded rooms with couples spinning and swaying in tandem, their movements radiating heat and passion for a dance transported from far-away continents.

Saigon There is a social salsa evening every day in Saigon, with some venues offering a crash course in the basic steps, so you can fake it until you make it. The salsa community is organised by a host of people connected to the five various salsa studios, and social coordinators through the online presence via the Facebook Salsa Saigon group. Will Knight, who organises Salsateka UK with his partner Marta Bartosz, says: “In Vietnam there is a strong culture of family importance that translates to the salsa community and people really respect that. There’s friendly competition between us, but ultimately we’re a family and it’s all about supporting each other.” On Mondays and Thursdays there are salsa and bachata nights at Cuba La Casa Del Mojito (91 Pasteur, Q1), on Tuesdays salsa is at The ZFloor (2 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3), Wednesday salsa is hosted by La Fenetre Soleil (44 Ly Tu Truong, Q1), Thursday night at Hard Rock Cafe (39 Le Duan, Q1), Saturday is hosted by La Salsa, the oldest salsa club in HCMC, at their studio (212-214 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3), and Sunday rounds off the week with Mexican vibes at Khoi Thom (29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3). Salsa dancing shares similarities with driving in Saigon; both demand a synchronized chaos from everyone involved, a long-lasting adrenaline rush, and you’ll probably end the night sweatier than you ever imagined possible. Saigon-style salsa is still in its early stages comparative to other communities across the globe but it is certainly distinctive. As so many different styles are taught such as Cuban, LA, West Coast and New York, the Saigon scene has a healthy mix of combinations and crossovers. The dancers in the room may seem intimidating at first but the community is brimming with passion and enthusiastic to embrace newcomers with open arms — both literally and figuratively. Many dancers have faced negativity from their friends and family after they have started dancing on the salsa scene. Owner of XSalsa and DJ, Luong Thien Chuong, says: “At first my parents didn’t support me, because I quit my job to start XSalsa back in 2006, but when they see I have full classes they’re impressed, and I’ve met a lot of good people.” Some of this negativity surrounds the

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fact that many social nights are hosted in bars and clubs where non-dancers normally go to drink, but that is not quite the case within the salsa dancing scene. “Most people salsa dancing don’t drink alcohol — not what people assume,” remarks Will Knight. “There’s an assumption that to dance with the passion we have there must be substances involved, but serious salseros only drink water. The bars don’t make much money from us at all.” Friends and family of the dancers have changed their minds after seeing their dancers in action. Nguyen Trong Khoi of M.A.N. Mambo remembers when he first started dancing.

“I introduced many friends to the salsa scene, at first they didn’t understand it and had negative opinions about dancing, but now some of them have even become regulars,” he says. Many voices within the social salsa dancing scene have expressed disappointment at the new restrictions on Nguyen Hue pedestrian street in District 1 that will directly impact the community. One dancer commented: “[Nguyen Hue] offered great exposure from the salsa community to people who normally would never see that style of dance before, and it gave us a free place to dance.” The restrictions come as a response to activity on Nguyen Hue which has become


a frequent spot for people to gather, play music, eat food, dance, skate and socialise without the drinking pressures of being at a bar or pub, or pressure to pay for food in a restaurant. It is a shame that the salseros are losing a free, public venue to showcase their talents, but that won’t stop them from getting together for hours a week to develop their art form. “The salsa community here reflects what this city has to offer; friendship, liberty, fun and warmth,” says Nicole Nguyen, a salsera from Hanoi who has been dancing for three years. “What sets Saigon style apart is the freedom and passion [from] the people and the vibe in here.”

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Hanoi Hanoi may not be as hot as Saigon, but you wouldn’t know the difference on the dance floor. A different salsa party rages every night in the capital; Tuesdays at S-Fire Studio (19 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan), Thursdays at Spring Salsa (22 Ho Giam, Dong Da), Saturdays at The Artists (20 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem), and La Bomba Bar for every other day of the week (46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem). Many salsa devotees know and follow the schedule dutifully. But the most popular and packed salsa nights are held every Friday evening at Beso Latino, located in the same building as The Artists. Marika Vilisaar, who goes to salsa parties up to five days per week, is a regular there. “It’s like Alice in Wonderland,” she says of the atmosphere at Beso Latino. “You go to the elevator and then the elevator door opens and a totally different world opens up. It has a really beautiful vibe, people are dancing amazingly. They just enjoy the moment and that’s what I love about it.” Encouraged by the large turnout, the studio opened a second salsa party on Saturday afternoons. Do Sao Mai, the spunky, short-haired owner of Beso Latino, remembers the date well; Sep. 4, 2004. It was perhaps the first time Hanoi held a social salsa event, organised by the vice-ambassador of the Swiss embassy. Sao Mai had never seen

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anything like it and was mesmerised. Despite describing herself as uncoordinated, she decided to enter a salsa competition that was being held the following year. She and her partner learnt the moves through YouTube. It was rote memorisation rather than learning the leading and following intricacies of salsa, but it was enough. They won. After taking professional lessons and earning their stripes, they began giving lessons for VND5,000 per person — “just enough to pay the rent,” Sao Mai says. They aimed to popularise salsa, even if it meant working for next to nothing. It wasn’t until many years later that she decided to make it a full-time career. Despite facing pressure from her parents, who used to think dancing was a waste of time, and from her then-husband, who persuaded her to stop dancing for two years, she quit her high-up position in a Vietnamese company and founded Beso Latino in 2014. She works alongside her original dance partner and also her new husband, whom she met, naturally, through salsa dancing. They hold classes every day, and teach about 400 students in the Los Angeles style, which is most popular in Hanoi. Now, many Vietnamese are switching from ballroom dancing to salsa because it’s a more flexible dance that doesn’t require strict memorisation of the moves. It’s also more exciting as a social activity.

“If you dance with the same person over and over again, you get bored,” she says. “But if you dance with a new guy and you follow him, it’s a different chemistry between different people. That’s why salsa is so addictive because it’s a different reaction every dance. No dance is the same.” This can’t-get-enough attitude has enabled other establishments to attract customers by hosting salsa events. The Artists Jazz Corner is the only place in the city that serves up live Latin music and a dance floor for salsa parties, which have been held regularly for the past two months. “For our salsa party last week, some friends who are Cuban professional dancers who were in Vietnam for the Latin Professional Dancing Festival came by our pub,” says owner Tran Khue Anh. “When the music started, it blew their minds. They were surprised that Vietnam has a professional Latin band played by Vietnamese.” However, The Artists is the exception rather than the rule. Sao Mai says Vietnamese tend to prefer dancing in a comfortable atmosphere like a studio, and few bars are willing to host salsa nights because they don’t profit much from serious dancers who only drink water. Apart from the sensuality and glamour, the endorphin rush is what keeps salsa dancers chasing the next dance floor, next partner and the next beat.


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Insider INSIDER

HCMC

Saigon Pool Tour During a hot month, Jon Aspin set himself a challenge; visit as many hotel pools as he could in one day. It wasn’t easy, but somebody had to do it. Photos by Rodney Hughes Sofitel Saigon Plaza 19th Floor, 17 Le Duan, Q1 6.47am

“You’ve got to get out of bed early if you want to achieve greatness”

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eemingly perched on top of this city, the Sofitel rooftop pool delivers a view of District 1 that is the envy of others. The elliptical shape of the 15m shallow pool is itself relaxing, and is surrounded on all sides by loungers that despite the early hour of our visit, were being used by guests. Chilled tunes add to the breezy vibe, transporting you quickly to a place where all things seem possible, and where your life is going well. I got my first few laps of the day in, and thought about what the poor people were doing down below. Actually, that’s not true, but it is something my dad used to say when confronted with such sublime conditions, and it seems appropriately inappropriate here. One down, six to go. Kudos on the bar, the outdoor table settings and the type of all-day service you’d expect from a place like this. Swimmability: 4 stars Ambience & View: 4.5 stars Amenities: 3.5 stars Access: Book a room or join the gym, otherwise in house guests only 6am to 10pm

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ith no rules other than to experience as many hotel pools as I could in one day, I managed to swim in seven of them. That’s a lot. Only one was strictly for in-house guests, and another requires a membership, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t worth writing about. The rest are available at a price to anyone, so I offer you this incomplete

guide to some of the best pools in Saigon. I’ve tried to be fair in my appraisal of each, and given them a star rating across categories I’ve invented called ‘swimmability’, ‘ambience and view’, ‘amenities’ and ‘access’. There are many more pools of course, and a few of them are listed at the end of this piece, so I’d also recommend trying them. Feel free to let us know what you think.

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Social Club — Hotel des Arts 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 8.22am

“Very hashtag-able”

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n the softer morning light of Saigon, the infinity pool on the top floor of the boutique Hotel des Arts is Instagram gold. It offers the most expansive view of the city of all the pools I visited, and the ‘edge of the world’ effect is impressive. On a clear day like we had, I doubt there’s a better place to see how far the urban sprawl of Saigon really goes. At about 12m long, it’s only just big enough if you’re keen to get some laps in, but if you’re not Michael Phelps, for breast-stroking away last night’s excesses, or simply cooling off, this pool is close to perfect. The swim-up bar adds potential, and would be a nice feature if you were looking to make a day of it. Unfortunately it’s only open at night, and the pool is for in-house guests only, so you’ll have to book a room to make that happen. In terms of other amenities, space is at a premium. This means sun-loungers are limited and there are no actual changing rooms, but again, if you’ve done the right thing and booked a stay, you needn’t have to worry about this. Swimmability: 4 stars Ambience & View: 5 stars Amenities: 3 stars Access: Book a room! Open only for guests 6am to 10pm

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Caravelle Saigon 7th Floor, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 10.37am

“And ‘oft thine did go to Caravelle, my lord”

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his is a well-known daytime retreat for expats and locals alike. Nicely secluded amongst a well-established roof garden, the large free-form pool is available to anyone prepared to front the VND500,000 ticket. This will get you all-day access to the gym, pool and first-class changing facilities, which include a spa, sauna and steam room. At a healthy 20m in length, it’s more than enough to get your swim on, and while it’s a long way from rush hour on Vo Thi Sau, many of the regulars do, so don’t expect to be alone. The pool includes a shallow zone where families hang out, and a bubble-bath alcove to float around in. The always-staffed cabana bar is open until 9pm, and there are plenty of shaded loungers at both ends of the deck to chill out on. The prices here reflect the hotel’s fivestar rating, but for this type of luxury in the city, the extra spend is well worth it. Swimmability: 4.5 stars View & Ambience: 4 stars Amenities: 5 stars Access: Open to the public 6am to 10pm (VND500,000 day rate)

Park Hyatt 3rd Floor, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 12.48pm

“When in Rome”

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ooking like something Caesar himself would have been proud to take a bath in, this large, square pool is very VIP. Set in an opulent garden, complete with intimate table settings, it’s no surprise that this is the most expensive of the pools we visited; VND1.2million for half-day access means walk-ins are kept to a minimum. However, the amenities at your disposal are definitely what you pay for. Bar service and food are easily at hand, too, so if you can afford it, and are looking to impress your best friend, this could well be the private getaway for you — just don’t try climbing the cascading water feature, it does tend to make the staff nervous. Swimmability: 3.5 stars View & Ambience: 4 stars Amenities: 5 stars Access: Open to the public (VND1.2 million) for a half day, 6am to 8pm

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Pullman Hotel 6th Floor, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 2.43pm

“Other people’s leisure is my pleasure”

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ith the afternoon heat in full force, this was possibly the best pool we went to for anyone who just wants to get their head down and swim. At a good 20m long, and about two-and-a-half Olympic lanes wide, this pool is great for those combining their stay in town with a regular fitness routine. Having said that, it’s not a bad spot to relax either, and makes the best use of the available space. With enough loungers to keep guests and visitors happy, you do

get that rooftop feel, even though you’re only six floors up. Open to the public for VND360,000, that also includes a handy indoor juice bar, gym and gender separate spa and sauna, with a standard of changing facilities you’d expect from a chain like Pullman. The mixed international crowd also seemed ready to mingle, so you’d be hard pressed to find better value from our list. Just remember to bring a good pair of flipflops or sandals — those tiles around the pool can get hot. Swimmability: 3.5 stars View & Ambience: 3.5 stars Amenities: 3.5 stars Access: Open to the public for VND360,000, 6am to 10pm

Renaissance Riverside Hotel 22nd Floor, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 4.24pm

“We like to party”

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his pool is strictly for the paddlers among us, though that won’t stop the odd noob from donning the cap and goggles. Truly a rooftop pool, and now a centrepiece of the hotel’s Liquid Sky Bar, it’s the location we went to that seemed most willing to get the party started. With a bar barely five feet away from its edge, it’s not uncommon for revelers to end up in the water on a big night out at this venue. I’ve seen it happen myself.

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The recliners were busy with a full complement of sun worshippers when we were there, and the riverside view you get is unique. The mix of hotel guests can also make for some interesting viewing, as was the case on our visit, when we bore witness to some pretty interesting variations on what constitutes a modest swimming outfit. It’s open to the public at VND300,000, but you’re more likely to come here on a night out, so if you do, my advice is to dive in and enjoy. The drinks are some of the best in town, too. Swimmability: 3 stars View & Ambience: 4 stars Amenities: 4 stars Access: Open to the public for VND300,000, 6am to late


The Rex Hotel Top Floor, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 5.42pm

“Get in.”

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s the light faded around us, this was as good a place as any to finish the tour. This five-star hotel’s rooftop pool is iconic, worthy of your attention and something that will no doubt continue to stand the test of time. There are in fact two pools at the Rex, the lower deck tear drop is an often lively family fun area close to the bar and gym, and the second tier is a more sedate lapper, that has you eyeball to eyeball with the Bitexco Tower. For VND200,000 the Rex is a great place to wind up your weekend, and while the amenities aren’t new, they are more than getting the job done at this famous suntrap. Loungers are in plentiful supply but with service and a drinks list like this, it’s no surprise that it remains popular even with long-term expats keen to soak up the afternoon rays. Swimmability: 3.5 stars View & Ambience: 4 stars Amenities: 3.5 stars Access: Open to the public for about VND160,000 (US$7), 6am to 10pm

Don’t Forget The swimming pools not mentioned in this article but certainly worth consideration include the N EW W ORLD H OTEL , Q1 , T HE E QUATORIAL , Q5 and T HE I NTERCONTINENTAL A SIANA , Q1 . We’d like to thank all of the participating venues for their kind hospitality and gracious acceptance of our request to shoot their pools.

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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Gastro: Food and Beer Pub There’s a restaurant and pub in town serving, yes, you guessed it, cuisine from the UK. Naturally our mystery diner had to check it out. Here’s the verdict. Photos by Trung Del

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hen turning onto Hang Non, Gastro Food and Beer is the place to go for British cuisine that you won’t find anywhere else in Hanoi. A small door takes you into a dark and somewhat dingy-looking corridor that leads to a metal staircase — the kind you’d expect to find on a container ship. My friend hobbles up the stairs, determined to work off her recent motorbike accident. Once inside we’re greeted by smiling staff and a neat looking room with nostalgic British-style décor — postcard-like murals of the classic double-decker bus and Big Ben are painted on the walls overlooking wooden tables decorated with flowers and little ornaments. At the back of the room is an open doorway to the bar, and stools looking out to the busy streets of the Old Quarter. My friend and I decide to sit out the back, near the bar and overlooking the bustling streets outside. We take up two chairs

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— barstools with heavy cast iron frames — and ordered some locally brewed light ales served in proper curved pint glasses. The food menu is easy to read, arranged into clear categories, each with half a dozen options; starters and pub grub, proper mains, veggie and salads, proper sandwiches and so on. I can imagine the British Embassy was over the moon when they heard about it.

Battered Feeling a little sentimental since leaving the UK six months ago, I settle on a plate full of fond memories; battered fish and chips, with mushy peas and tartar sauce, for a reasonable VND175,000. My friend orders the roasted beetroot salad, and crab spring rolls to share. The crab spring rolls arrive first. At VND95,000 it’s a decent-sized portion with noodles and salad on the side accompanied by a flavoursome soy sauce-based dip. Next out is the beetroot salad (VND85,000), another generous portion, of fresh beetroot,

croutons, salad and dressing. The salad is well presented and hits the spot for vegetarians and carnivores alike. Saving the best to last, out comes the fish and chips. Served on a wooden slab, the freshwater fish is a local selection — cod being far too expensive to import into Vietnam. The fish is meaty, full of flavour and battered in a way that would make any English seafront restaurant a little jealous. The chips are fat and crispy and the mushy peas are thick, with a creamy texture. A waitress was there on cue to check if we needed anything and we left with the clear impression that the whole staff of the restaurant are genuinely passionate about the service that they provide. As a Brit with a palate for all things battered and gravy, I’m glad that there’s somewhere in Hanoi that cooks up British cuisine to a high standard and at reasonable prices. Gastro: Food and Beer Pub is located at 20 Hang Non, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi


THE VERDICT

13 FOOD

14

SERVICE

12 DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals


Food and Drink

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STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Bun Oc Co Hue

Vietnam has an obsession with eating snails. And one dish that leaves a long, glistening trail is snails with rice noodle soup. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Julie Vola

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hile local people deem snails to be as much of a staple as chicken, beef or fish, for many non-Gallic expats, the reaction is simply “Eww!” Some common reasons are “because of its texture” or “food poisoning risks.” Admittedly, Vietnamese people do not treat snails with the care the French do, yet they love eating them. I once remember someone writing, “All street foods are chancy” in terms of food poisoning. So if you can overcome any negative feelings you may have about snails, you won’t be disappointed. Vietnamese snails come from both saltwater and freshwater sources. Most of the snails people sell around Hanoi are freshwater, culled from paddy fields or ponds in villages in the north. Hanoi’s signature recipes with these kind of snails are boiled snails or oc luoc and snail noodle soup or bun oc. While eating oc luoc is one of Hanoi’s most popular culinary pastimes, bun oc is one of the city’s staples, much like bun ca or bun rieu.

Seasonal Medley Bun oc Hanoi is a medley of snails and noodles, served in a tangy and slightly spicy soup, with a mix of local fresh herbs. Lighter, and just as good as bun rieu, bun oc in Hanoi is ubiquitous. While people eat bun

oc in winter or autumn to warm up the body, it works equally well for springtime or a summer lunch treat thanks to its lightness. Of all the small streetside bun oc eateries, Bun Oc Co Hue is the one not to be missed. Originally the creation of a bun oc peddler working an alley on Nha Chung — after two decades in its original location the stall recently relocated to a small space on Dang Dung in an area surrounded by second-hand phone shops. Instead of offering bun oc paired with any type of meat or deep-fried tofu like some other stalls, the eatery sticks to basic bun oc, literally snails with noodles and a snail-based broth. Bun Oc Co Hue is particularly well known for its delightful and gently spicy broth. The broth here has a moderate sourness, a piquant yet pleasant taste, and added to this already complex flavour is their excellent homemade dried chilli for diners who love the spice.

Mint Condition Like many other traditional bun oc eateries, Bun Oc Co Hue serves the dish in two styles; bun oc nong or snail noodles in hot broth and bun oc nguoi, in cool broth. While the first version can burn the tongue, the cool serving, which is eaten by dipping small noodle pieces into the cool broth, is Hanoi’s favourite dish during the summer, thanks to

its lightness and pleasant taste. The snail flesh itself is another plus as the cooks here carefully select the fat, mediumsized and yellow-shelled snails. It is these chewy snails that make local people love the dish. “We bring the fresh snails from paddy fields in Hai Duong to the city every day,” the owner’s daughter says. “The snails are carefully soaked in water derived from rice washing for one to two days to make them clean enough to eat.” Snails are always accompanied by fresh tomato, cut into pieces and put on top of the big heating broth pan. Other important ingredients in bun oc are a variety of fresh vegetables and herbs; lettuce, coriander, cockscomb mint, perilla mint, knotweed and basil. A social dish, the casual way of eating bun oc on the street seems to contribute to its flavour and uniqueness. This may also explain why the snails, a countryside ingredient, come all the way from rural waterways to another type of thoroughfare, the street. With the right ingredients added they become a key component of one of the best loved dishes in Hanoi. Bun Oc Co Hue is located at 16 Dang Dung, Ba Dinh. A bowl of bun oc ranges from VND25,000 to VND35,000. The eatery is closed on the 1st and 15th of every lunar month

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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

Sushi Hokkaido Sachi Mixing Western cuisine with Japanese, our mystery diner heads to Dong Du for a date with Sushi Hokkaido Sachi and their outstanding foie gras. Photos by Bao Zoan

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ne of the more amazing traits of modern Japanese cuisine is how they have adopted fusion, adapting from and to nearly every culture they encounter. From wagyu beef tataki rolls to sashimi to grilled beef with leeks to udon Bolognaise, sushi style in particular has enfolded the prestige cuisines of Europe. Even wilder fusion places exist, daring explorers of the globe’s ingredients and flavours. Sushi Hokkaido Sachi toes these lines; a semi-traditional sushi place in Ho Chi Minh City with a restrained but excellent selection of Western foodstuffs in full Japanese dress. Neither modern nor traditional, they display flashes of brilliance atop a foundation of fresh ingredients, creative presentation and strong service. That said, the difference between their winning dishes and their role foods was striking. My date and I order sushi conservatively: salmon and tuna; occasionally oysters, octopus or yellowtail; occasionally Western-derived dishes.

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Conservative Orders from a Moderate Menu Our order at Sushi Hokkaido Sachi followed this pattern — green tea (VND15,000) and misoshiru soup for two (VND15,000 each.) My girlfriend stayed true to her chawanmushi (VND35,000) from which I always steal a bite or three. The soup tasted fine, a touch salty, but the chawanmushi was a dream of cloud-soft eggs and delicate sea flavours braced by powdered red pepper. The next courses arrived in a rush — maguro sashimi (VND109,000), a terrifically low price for the quality of the local fish and toro salmon sashimi (VND129,000), another great bargain; a dish of salmon belly surrounded by blossoms and a massive sea-shell. None of the fish blew out our taste buds, but all of it arrived well-cut and well-presented, fresh and delicate.

A Momentary Perfection With the fish came the second of the four

standouts, our wagyu yukke (VND209,000) essentially beef tartare renamed in Japanese. The delicate, creamy flavours bloomed together into an amazing swirl of egg and beef softer and richer than the quail egg yolk, laced with satiny fat. So good it was that we immediately ordered its nearly identical twin on the menu, the third standout of the night, the wagyu nigiri (VND189,000.) Oh, and another maguro sashimi just for laughs.

The Michelin Moment Then came the Michelin moment; the foie gras aburi nigiri (VND149,000 for two pieces) which was so absurdly good we ordered and reordered. This was perhaps the best foie gras I’d ever eaten, atop a bullet of sushi rice and tied with a string of seaweed. The flavours joined amazingly well, but the simply seared lobe of duck liver caressed my mouth with butter and beef-marrow flavours, a flash of sweetness almost like balsamic vinegar minus any acidic bite, a gentle wave that lingered


THE VERDICT

13.5 FOOD

12.5 SERVICE

on the palate with an unbelievably long finish, delicate, buttery, almost nutty. By far the best dish of the night, it stood out so much against the miso soup, the salmon, the perfect chawanmushi, even the many courses of wagyu beef.

11

DÉCOR

Room for One or Two More Still able to fit food in our bellies, we selected one last dish: tokachi gyu sumiyaki (VND195,000), artistically arranged cubes of beef that we grilled ourselves. Being carnivores, we opted for a quick sear on the outside and blood inside, totalling three courses of raw beef for the night, a personal record. Finally, dessert; shiratama zenzai (VND59,000) or red-bean dumpling sweet soup, for the lady. For me, ice-cream parfait (VND89,000) which was good enough that I briefly considered ordering another, as we’d done so many times.

Crowded but Serviceable The place was packed — we waited 45 minutes for two bar seats. Service was… serviceable. Although in fairness they were very busy. Sushi Hokkaido Sachi has the glassfronted fish bar, wooden-slate construction and shoeless short-legged tables many quasi-traditional sushi restaurants opt for. And overall the place really is pretty good and deserving of the large number of clientele. But as for their amazing foie gras… Now that was in a different league. Sushi Hokkaido Sachi is at 40-42 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals


Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER

HCMC

Know Your Com Tam If there is any dish that is a Saigon icon, it’s com tam. But what’s the background behind this local favourite cooked up with steamed ‘broken’ rice? Words by Vi Pham


I

f there is any Vietnamese dish that makes southern Vietnam, especially Saigon, different from other parts of the country, it must be com tam, also known as broken rice. Even though in Saigon, com tam is eaten as much as pho, not many people, including Vietnamese, are aware of the background of the dish. And as a person who’s grown up eating com tam almost every day, I feel the urge to dig deeper into the narrative behind this recipe. As I discovered, a plate of com tam contains more historic and cultural stories than I had thought possible.

The Not-So-Broken Rice A typical plate of com tam consists of tam (the rice), suon nuong (grilled pork ribs), cha (Vietnamese pork pie), do chua (pickled veggies) and nuoc mam (sweet fish sauce). Tam is the essential part of the dish and also the reason for the name since other ingredients can be up to the diner. Despite the popular belief that tam are broken and valueless pieces of the rice seed, it is not true. In contrast, tam originally implied the most valuable part of the seed. In the past, after harvesting, farmers would collect and separate the straw and the good seeds, filtering the bad ones and the eatable grains. Freshly harvested seeds had to be brayed by hand to remove the husk. During this braying process, most of the seed would stay in its original shape. But the tip of the seed, which is the most nutritious and can potentially grow into another rice crop, would occasionally fall out. That was the real and original tam — when it was cooked it always

tasted better. In the past, only the wealthy could afford to eat tam with their meal. Fast forward a century and tam is no longer such a luxury. Harvested rice crops go straight into the mill and farmers leave all the work to the machines. Though this quickens the process, there is no longer a demand for quality tam and instead the seed tips get mixed with above broken bits of the grain. All these factors lower the price but also diminish the real taste of tam grains.

A Plate of History and Culture Despite the change in quality, com tam still plays a major part in the history and culture of Saigon. A plate of com tam contains many stories. In the past, when the price of tam became more affordable, com tam was sold on the street for breakfast and lunch. Most customers were workers who could not make it home to eat with their family. Eventually, the dish became so ubiquitous and popular, that Saigonese started eating com tam for dinner. After pho, com tam is the people’s choice for price and availability, and over time, vendors have moved from mobile stands to settled restaurants. Over the past decade, com tam brands have sprung up — Thuan Kieu is perhaps the most famous — and have begun differentiating themselves with many twists in the way the recipe is served. Com tam also reflects the changes in society and the impact of Western culture in Vietnam. Instead of the traditional meal in which all dishes are laid out and shared by a group of diners, com tam is more individual with all ingredients prepared for one person

on a single plate. And being on a plate, diners don’t use the more traditional bowls and chopsticks to eat their rice, reverting instead to spoons and forks. To me, this is a symbol of the country changing from a collectivist society to a more individualistic one. As com tam is so popular, you can find it almost everywhere in Saigon. However, I recommend street restaurants where you can watch the sizzling pork chops being grilled on burning charcoal, creating an aroma that can trigger all your taste buds; prices vary from VND20,000 to VND40,000 a plate. Not too greasy, fattening or sweet, com tam is an excellent choice at any time of day. Thanks to Dr. Han Nguyen Nguyen Nha for providing valuable materials to help write this piece

Where to Get Good Com Tam C OM T AM 40A

40A Quoc Huong, Q2, HCMC

C OM T AM 114

114 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, HCMC

B A G HIEN

84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan, HCMC

C OM T AM T HUAN K IEU

26 Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC; 138 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Q3, HCMC; 46 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, HCMC; 114 Yersin, Q1, HCMC


Travel

TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

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The granddaddy of exotic vacation resorts is spreading across Asia. Jesse Meadows flew into Singapore to make the quick hop across the Singapore Strait to Bintan in Indonesia.

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irst things first, I’m not the allinclusive type. I’m more of the same-shirt-for-a-week, $3-dormbed kind of traveller. So when I found out I was going to the Club Med on Indonesia’s Bintan Island, I borrowed a pair of flowing pants and a carry-on with wheels and set off to try and fit in. Club Med is the original all-inclusive. In 1950, Belgian water polo player Gerard Blitz founded the first club on the island of Majorca. It was just a handful of young travellers in beach huts then. In 1961, Baron Edmond de Rothschild had a lovely stay at a Club Med and decided to buy the company. Funded by the Rothschild family’s wealth (the largest private fortune in the 19th century), the company expanded, opening ski resorts in Switzerland and beach destinations in the Caribbean. Today, Club Med has 71 villages all over the world, and even a cruise ship. In the early 2000s, the company adapted to market changes, shifting their focus to the upscale market and family-oriented holidays. After a two-year bidding war, Club

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Med was bought out by Chinese company Fosun International in 2015 for a cool $1.07 billion, and are now looking to tap into Asia’s growing tourism market.

The Art of Happiness The concept here is simply; happiness. And it’s hard not to be happy when everyone around you is smiling. This is the strategy at Club Med, where you can’t walk a metre without encountering sparkling eyes and a full spread of shiny white teeth. It’s downright infectious, from the moment you exit the giant Club Med coach bus (to the tune of Pharrell’s song, Happy, of course), the resort’s Gentils Organisateurs (GOs) greet you with smiles, wine glasses and lavender-scented towels. “Check into your room, relax. Have some lunch!” they said, so I made my way to the first of many buffets. At Club Med, there’s one around every corner. An open-air beachside buffet, a barbecue in the sand buffet, a massive food hall dinner buffet… all fully-stocked with international fare, from tikka masala to beef wellington. I guess all that food is necessary energy for the long list of activities available. Our

itinerary for the next day read; sailing, aqua fitness, archery and yoga, in that order. Unfortunately I only made it to the fifth activity, which was “cocktails”. What makes the Club Med experience unique are the GOs. They’re essentially summer camp counsellors, and their job is to mingle with guests, entertain the kids, and create a fun ambience. If you sit down to eat alone here, it will only be a minute before a smiling GO approaches, asking if they can join you for lunch. At our first dinner, we were joined by Pym, a 31-year-old from Thailand who has worked in Club Med resorts for eight years, and Maho, from Japan, who was a guest in many of the club’s resorts before finally getting a job at reception. “How do you not get fat here?” I asked Pym incredulously, bewildered by all the choices at the enormous dinner buffet. She laughs. “We dance! Dancing is part of the life.”

Dance For Life After dinner, I found out what she meant. Every night at the bar, the GOs lead guests through a series of group line dances,

all with easy-to-follow moves and very high energy. It’s sort of like your cousin’s wedding reception, except much more organised. This is all aimed at the kids, of course. Keep the kids happy, and the parents can relax. GOs often form long-term relationships with their return guests; Pym told me that one family in particular has been coming back for so long, she’s watched their kids grow from toddlers into teenagers. After everyone is thoroughly warmed up, this family-friendly dance party ultimately segues down the hall into their theatre, where the GOs put on a choreographed dance show every night. Every GO has three to four shows in their repertoire, and they rotate throughout the week, so guests always have fresh entertainment. Everyone participates in the shows, even the Chef de Village (Club Med-speak for resort manager), Jessie. At 33 years old, she is one of the only female chefs in the entire company. When I asked her why she’s worked with Club Med for almost a decade, she replied simply: “I love people!” And of course, the opportunity to travel can’t hurt, either. Pym has now worked at

“‘How do you not get fat here?’ I asked Pym incredulously, bewildered by all the choices at the enormous dinner buffet. She laughs. ‘We dance! Dancing is part of the life’”

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“The concept here is simply; happiness. And it’s hard not to be happy when everyone around you is smiling” Club Meds in Malaysia, China, Japan, the Maldives, Thailand and Indonesia. It’s not a bad business plan, really — move your employees around every six months so they can tell guests first-hand about the unique features that other locations offer.

Golf, Circus and Missiles In Bintan, a huge draw is the “Best Golf Course in Asia”, Ria Bintan, 27 holes with ocean views, just a short drive outside Club Med. The resort has its own in-house golf shop, and can arrange trips for guests. I’m not much of a golf enthusiast, but I did get to drive the golf cart, and it was a lovely jaunt through serene forests and lush greenery.

This Club Med also features a trapeze and a trained circus team. Every day they teach kids and adults alike how to swing through the air and bounce down onto the net below. And once a week, the team puts on a special circus show, featuring aerial silks and juggling tricks. There’s also the Mini Club, where GOs entertain the kids with activities like tie-dye workshops and soccer games, while mom and dad lounge by the pool. In truth, I didn’t do very well blending in. I should have probably brought a couple of kids. But I did find friends in the staff, who were more than happy to have a drink with me whenever I asked. On my last night at Club Med, I sat by the pool with Jasper, the Club’s assistant restaurant manager. After

several tours in Iraq with the US Army, he was led to reassess his career. “I asked, what am I doing with my life? Am I making people happy?” he said. He may only get one day off a week, and he may work early mornings and late nights, but now, instead of firing missiles, he’s in the business of making people smile. For more info on Club Med, contact Exo Travel, 41 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3519 4111 or email saigonagency@exotravel. com. Alternatively, contact Exo Travel in Hanoi on (04) 3828 2150 or hanoiagency@exotravel. com. In Asia, Club Med have holiday villages in China, Indonesia, Thailand, Japan, Malaysia, Maldives and Mauritius. Check them out online at clubmed.com

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Travel

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TRAVEL

NATIONAL

Phu Yen Even though Vietnam has a coastline literally thousands of kilometres long, finding unspoilt beaches is increasingly becoming a challenge. Vu Ha Kim Vy goes in search

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E

ver since Vung Tau, Phan Thiet and even Nha Trang became full of tourists and concreted over, trying to find an unspoilt beach has been increasingly hard. There’s just too much money to be made from this country’s coastline. But thanks to photos of Phu Yen Province taken by my brother on a trip one week earlier, and to Vietjet Air for offering cheap flights, I headed straight up to this forgotten area of Vietnam just north of Nha Trang. Tuy Hoa Airport was originally a US-built military air base which was abandoned for over two decades in 1975. In 1996, it greeted its first domestic flight from Ho Chi Minh City, operated by Vietnam Airlines. Now it’s used for both military and domestic purposes. I landed in Tuy Hoa around 9am and quickly got on the bike that had been delivered to the airport. As the airport is situated to the south of Tuy Hoa, the province’s main city, I headed south on the first day.

The Southern Coast Heading south there are few tourist attractions — the only standouts are Mui Dien and Vung Ro Bay. Mui Dien is around 24km away from Tuy Hoa and 5km north of Vung Ro Bay. It was an easy ride, as the road is in good condition and the signposting is clear. To reach Mui Dien, I passed through Ngang Pass with mountains on one side and the ocean on the other. Enchanted by its beauty, I pulled my bike over several times to take photos. My watch showed just after 11am as I bought a VND10,000 ticket to get inside Mui Dien. “You can leave your backpack here and you should take a bottle of water while climbing up to the lighthouse,” advised the woman in the ticket booth. The lighthouse was built in 1890 by the French. Coloured grey, it’s 26.5m high and its

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operation was started and stopped several times before officially returning to daily use in 1997. It is also the most easterly point in mainland Vietnam and the first part of the country to catch the light of sunrise. I walked around the lighthouse feasting my eyes on the views — the white sand dunes of Bai Mon in the distance, the rocky mountains, patches of jungle, palm trees, the turquoise sea and the occasional silver-white waves. It was stunning. Leaving Mui Dien I headed south to Vung Ro Bay. As I turned a corner, once again my jaw dropped as the landscape unfolded in front of me. Mountain after mountain embraced the sea and boats ran back and forth from the shore carrying tourists to fish farms floating on the sparkling water. There was something picture postcard about this place, and for a moment, a fleeting moment, I thought I should pack up everything, leave the big city and settle in this untouched, secluded enclave of Vietnam.

The City Tuy Hoa is a small city, the same size as one district of Ho Chi Minh City. The land on which it was built was formed from silt flowing downstream on the Da Rang River. According to Vy, my university classmate from Tuy Hoa, the best way to enjoy the city is through its food, although she also asked on Facebook if I’d checked out the Cham Tower on Nhan Mountain. It took only 10 minutes to get to Nhan Mountain. As bikes are allowed to drive through, I didn’t need to work up a sweat reaching the top. The Cham Tower was built in the late 11th century and is said to be the result of a competition between a Cham general and a Vietnamese military commander. At the top, the whole city lays itself out before your eyes, with an endless skyline and miniature houses and streets. Vy also gave me a list of must-eat dishes in Tuy Hoa including one-day dried beef, steamed mackerel, oyster porridge and

Mang Lang Church Lying 3km from the highway and 35km north of Tuy Hoa, this gothic church was built in 1892 by French missionary Father Joseph Lacassagne — the area was the native parish of Blessed Andrew of Phu Yen, beheaded in 1644. Since the day that Blessed Andrew was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 2000, the church has held his feast day and become a place of pilgrimage every Jul. 26, the anniversary of his death. The church is also home Alexander de Rhodes’ Cathechismus in Octo dies (The Catechism explained in Eight Days) in Latin and Vietnamese (quoc ngu). Printed in 1651, de Rhodes was a missionary who learnt Vietnamese in six months and was the creator of the Roman script that is used today. The book is stored in an underground vault in a hill next to the church.

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chicken rice. Although the hotel manager had told me that most of the chicken rice places only opened during the day, I went out to try my luck at around 7pm. Tuy Hoa is cold at night, and my long-sleeved t-shirt didn’t help me much for the 2km drive from my hotel to the centre. The manager was right, nowhere was open. I ended up resorting to a plate of chicken rice for VND20,000 at a street food stall.

Forgotten Beaches There are two ways to go north to Xuan Dai Bay, you can either follow National Highway 1A or the beachfront road. As I wanted to see Bai Xep, Ganh Yen, Bai Phu Thuong, Bai Tram and Ganh Da Dia (meaning Stone Plate Bay), I chose the latter. The beachfront road is largely untouched, taking you through Vietnam as it would have looked 50 or even 100 years ago. Mountains, lakes and rice fields were on one side giving a fresh and cool feeling while the ocean breeze blew across from the other. In parts isolated and silent, you could hear the ocean waves crashing against the shore. Bai Xep, where the movie Hoa Vang Tren Co Xanh (Yellow Flowers On Green Grass) was filmed, has become a phenomenon after last year’s release. There was even a signboard mentioning the movie placed on the road leading to the beach. Like other beaches in the area, Bai Xep is worth visiting for its crystal-clear water, pristine white sand and sense of solitude. Since Ganh Da Dia is the main topic of conversation every time someone mentions Phu Yen, I wanted to check if it really was what people had been saying. To me it

looked like both a giant beehive and a pile of stone plates surrounded by cacti. It was also full of tourists. Knowing that I couldn’t take any better photos than my colleagues and given that it took nearly 10 minutes for me to get a shot of the place without any tourists wandering into my viewfinder, I quickly gave up. Yet as I was leaving I noticed a lighthouse standing on the beach opposite. I like lighthouses. “It doesn’t have a name, people here just call it Bai Da (Stone Beach)”, said a street vendor while handing me a ca phe sua da. If I gave Ganh Da Dia two stars for its beauty, I would give five stars to this nameless beach, mainly because of its absence of tourists. “You should go to Xuan Dai Bay through Cau Go (Wooden Bridge) as it’s quicker and the views are stunning,” continued the vendor. Cau Go is handmade from small wooden planks and only about 1.5 metres wide, crossing the Phu Ngan River. Driving across it is scary. Xuan Dai Bay is a 13,000-hectare piece of coastline stretching from Tuy An District to Song Cau town, and is formed by the 15km-long Co Ngua Mountain Range which runs into the sea and creates a peninsular. Listed as a ‘National Relic’ in 2011, despite its rise to ‘natural beauty’ prominence, the place remains raw. Mountains shoot into the sky, palm trees and rocks embrace each other, and an archway forms over a strip of white sand. Surrounded by beach after empty white-sand beach, this undiscovered patch of central Vietnam is so enticing that as I headed to the airport for my flight back to Saigon, I knew that the last place I wanted to go was home.

Information H OW

TO

G ET T HERE

Vietnam Airlines and other airlines including Vietjet Air and Jetstar have flights from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi to Tuy Hoa every day. Buses and trains offer another option for those who have more time. Visit vietnam-railway.com for trains and vexere.com for buses.

W HERE

TO

S TAY

Tuy Hoa has a wide range of hotels and guesthouses that are mainly located on Hung Vuong Boulevard. You could either stay at the five-star CenDeluxe Hotel (2 Hai Duong), the four-star Kaya Hotel (238 Hung Vuong) or get more basic at Khanh Hoa Hotel (625 Hung Vuong) for VND150,000 per night.

W HAT

TO

E AT

Com ga (chicken rice): Thien Huong (211 Le Thanh Ton) or Tuyet Nhung (189 Le Thanh Ton) Banh canh he (noodle soup with chives and fish cake): 32A (32A Le Trung Kien) or street vendor at corner between Le Loi and Phan Dinh Phung. Banh xeo (crispy pancake): Banh Xeo Le Thanh Ton (20 Le Thanh Ton) Nem nuong (grilled pork meatballs): Nem Nuong — Cha Dong (92 Nguyen Cong Tru) Seafood: The seafood area is along Bach Dang

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Travel

TRAVEL

NATIONAL

The Private Island Somewhere off Phu Quoc is a privately owned island that, if you’re lucky enough, might just be open for a visit. Jesse Meadows discovered that despite the growing debris in the surrounding seas, here the water remains crystal clear. Photos by Trung Del

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H

on Gam Ghi is an island south of Phu Quoc, surrounded by coral and majestic rock formations. It was bought by the owners of La Veranda resort years ago, and is inhabited by one Vietnamese family that has lived there for generations. The father took a wife from another island, and they now have two sons, who help them preside over the land and act as security for the resort’s special private tours. And these tours are extra special. “Exclusive” is probably a better word. The resort charters one large fishing boat for a couple or a family, and ferries them about a 45-minute ride south of Phu Quoc to Gam Ghi. On this trip, our photographer Trung and I were accompanied by Annia, who works in guest relations (and gets to take epic private island trips as part of her day

job). The three of us sat on the top deck of a boat that could have easily fit 50 people, taking in the serene blue waters around us, making small talk about what colour we would paint a boat if we had our own.

Crystal Clear On the way out of the port, the captain pulled up to a large floating raft and bought a bucket of live sea urchins for us, their pointy spikes wiggling slowly like something from another planet. Twenty minutes later we were scooping their salty insides out on the boat deck — my first taste of the ‘sea porcupine’, as Trung called it. When we pulled up to the island, my sole thought was snorkeling. The water is so clear that you can see straight to the bottom, and large dark masses dot the sand all around. I knew there were whole ecosystems

down there, and I needed to discover them. So I put on my goggles and what I thought was enough sunscreen and splashed into the water. Unfortunately, all the corals close to the shore are bleaching, whether it be from the abnormally warm waters of El Nino, or the hands and feet of local fisherman who were stepping all over them in search of shellfish. There wasn’t as much trash as I’d expected, thankfully, but I did find a backpack in the sand that had been reclaimed by algae and resourceful fish, and a few beer cans. Annia tells me that much of the trash comes from strong tides in the Gulf of Thailand. For some reason, she says, hundreds of flip-flops tend to wash up from nearby Cambodia. To counteract this, La Veranda, along with many other local businesses, are now actively taking

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part in the ‘Keep Phu Quoc Green and Clean’ programme, supporting community initiatives to clean up their beaches and natural landscapes.

Under the Sea “The good stuff is out there,” Annia told me, motioning far out past the rocks. So I swam until the brown reef turned colourful, and the formations got massive. I felt like a mermaid, just barely skimming over the top of the tallest masses, then diving into canyons between huge yellow, purple and blue corals on either side. Crabs scattered under rocks at the sight of my shadow and bright parrotfish stared up at me curiously. I knew my pale skin was burning in the sun but the water was so cool and the sights were so interesting that I didn’t care. Finally I reached open blue water and reluctantly decided to turn back. The current was strong out there, and I had to bust out all the tricks I learnt on my childhood swim team to fight it, like swimming parallel to shore across the current, instead of against it. It took twice as long to swim back in as it had to swim out, and I’d been in the water so long that the day had begun to wind down. After a beer, we packed up and trekked through the woods to another beach, where the coral was less thick and the boat could pick us up. The lone house on Gam Ghi was there on the sand, and its family sat around with tea, watching the sun sink. A beautiful old woman sat in shallow water with her fishing traps, flashing the brightest smile at me as I boarded the boat. I wondered what it would be like to live their simple, secluded life, waking up everyday on their own private island. We waved goodbye, and the boat lulled me to sleep. When I woke up in the port, I’d missed the sunset. But it’s okay, because Gam Ghi’s underwater magic was worth all my energy. To get to Hon Gam Ghi, email contact@ laverandaresorts.com or call MGallery by Sofitel, La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc on for info (077) 398 2988. Trips include a seafood BBQ on the beach. To see a video on the island, do a search on YouTube

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“The water is so clear that you can see straight to the bottom, and big dark masses dot the sand all around. I knew there were whole ecosystems down there, and I needed to discover them”


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Travel

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888

anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444

dalatpalace.vn

This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999

dalatgreencityhotel.com

Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555

contact@hoteldelopera.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365

dalattrainvilla.com

Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555

hanoi-daewoohotel.com

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Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396

hanoi.hgi.com

With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500

hanoi.hilton.com

Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888

hanoi.intercontinental.com

This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

jwmarriotthanoi.com

From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688

maydeville.com

The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343

meliahanoi.com

Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800

moevenpick-hanoi.com

With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. NOVOTEL SUITES 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3576 6666

novotel.com/9813

Suites and apartments with all the mod cons and attrac-

tive décor you’d expect of an Accor property. Located close to My Dinh and 20 minutes from downtown Hanoi, this new property with an inhouse restaurant and bar is perfect for business professionals or travellers looking to mix a stay in Hanoi with the feeling of being located in a place you can call home. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688

pullman-hanoi.com

With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000

sheraton.com/hanoi

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919

sofitel.com

The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

sixonsixteen.com

Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the

second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969

goldensilkhotel.com

Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048

josephshotel.com

Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999

hanovahotel.com

A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372

hanoibackpackershostel.com

Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

Winner of Robb Report’s 2006


list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777

equatorial.com/hcm

This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688

lemeridien.com/saigon

Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creative-minded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333

legendsaigon.com

Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

saigon.newworldhotels.com

PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686

pullmanhotels.com

Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

riverside-apartments.com

Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1117

renaissance-saigon.com

This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheraton.com/saigon

Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

sofitel.com

WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688

windsorplazahotel.com

The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201

continentalhotel.com.vn

Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914

kimdohotel.com

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926

lanlanhotel.com.vn

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966

alcovehotel.com.vn

M M M HCMC – BUDGET

This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992

NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso. NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866

ducvuonghotel.com

from the backpacker’s area. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699

dunahotel.com

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888

furamavietnam.com

HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915

honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648

sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An

anbangbeachretreat.com

CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231

hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800

danangbeachresort.com.vn

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888

pullman-danang.com

Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234

danang.regency.hyatt.com

The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

novotel-saigon-centre.com

Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090

villasong.com

Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice. STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888

starcitysaigon.vn

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

The newly-built hotel is near

wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 131


NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY

Wanna get out of Vung Tau? Up on Big mountain (Nui Lon) is a French-built fort overlooking the sea

Seafood comes in all forms in the area around Vung Tau. Some of it is fresh, and some of it is well, erm, fermented

I

find there’s plenty to keep a person occupied in Vung Tau, but then not every expat would agree with me. I mean it’s all subjective, innit? One man’s Shangri-La is another man’s Dullsville. Here’s a little parable that illustrates this point. Now, every parable has its obligatory wise old man hanging around the edge of town, waiting to dispense sage advice to passers-by, so when a traveller approaches Vung Tau on foot, he spies the old man. “Say, Wise Old Man, how is this town I’m about to enter?” “Well,” says the WOM, rather pleased he’s been asked for his sage advice on what has hitherto been a quiet day. “How did you find the last town you passed through?” “Oh, just great! Nice town, friendly people!” “Well, I think you’ll find this town exactly the same.” The WOM then sits back on his heels to await the next inevitable traveller. Sure enough, another guy turns up 10 minutes later. “Say, Wise Old Man, how is this town I’m about to enter?”

132 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com

“How did you find the last town you passed through?” “Oh, absolutely awful. The armpit of the world. Boring people.” “I think you’ll find this town exactly the same.”

Attitude Adjustment

By Don Wills

And that, Dear Reader, teaches us one thing. Which is… um… I don’t know really. An attitude to travel? Or perhaps it teaches us that wherever you go, there you are. And so back to Vung Tau’s attractions, or the lack of them, depending on your point of view. Like I say, this city has plenty to hold my interest most weeks of the year, but what of the other weeks when I feel the need to get out of town for a change of scenery? There are a number of places I’ve found to escape to that aren’t all that far from here. Take Long Hai, for example. Half an hour away from Vung Tau by motorbike, Long Hai is an idyllic, sleepy beach resort. The broad sweep of its bay is mostly devoid of life except for a few fishermen fiddling around with their nets, and a slow-moving


ENTRY 4:

Get Outta Town

Nha Lon on Long Son Island is the home of a religious sect founded by the mystical Ong Tran

beachcomber or two. The seafood cafes lining the beachfront are mostly without customers, the roads without traffic. A pleasant torpor envelops the township. Once you’ve visited the quaint pagoda nearby, there’s not much else to do, apart from sit yourself down at a café by the beach, listen to the lap of the wavelets, and gaze out at the endless horizon. Oh, and gorge yourself on delectable seafood, of course. In Long Hai they do a scrumptious dish of small fried squid stuffed with chopped veggies that I’ve not come across elsewhere, and their prawns are whoppers. A little further up the coast from Long Hai before you get to Loc An, there’s a long, pristine stretch of beach that’s even more deserted. There are no fishermen, no swimmers, no beachcombers, no sand to speak of; nothing but half a mile of small, crunchy seashells underfoot, and a thousand miles of sky overhead. For someone determined to get away from it all, this is the place to be. Cross your fingers that the developers don’t get their hands on it.

Spring Into Action Here’s another getaway within easy reach of Vung Tau; Binh Chau Hot Springs. While the springs are never going to attract hordes of visitors, they are a pleasant enough place to devote an hour or so to, especially if you like to wallow in a mud bath. It’s also an ideal spot for a picnic. And another place of interest just 30 minutes from Vung Tau is Long Son Island. Don’t be misled by the word ‘island’; it’s accessible by road. It boasts an ancient wooden temple — Nha Lon Long Son — a couple of floating villages, and four floating restaurants. However, the main attraction is oysters — oysters the size of saucers,

The area to the north and west of Vung Tau is a mixture of mangrove, beach, desert and mountain

oysters that literally melt in the mouth, oysters to die for. This is oyster-breeding country. A continuous line of trucks await to haul the mouth-watering molluscs away to Ho Chi Minh City, but there are enough of them left behind to stuff yourself to your heart’s content, and take a bagful home with you. Now all of the places I’ve mentioned have one thing in common. Peace and serenity. For me that’s a definite plus, but it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. If it’s fun and excitement you crave, go to Ho Chi Minh City. Born in New Zealand, Don Wills lives in Vung Tau. He’s been writing his way round the region for decades

"In Long Hai they do a scrumptious dish of small fried squid stuffed with chopped veggies that I’ve not come across elsewhere, and their prawns are whoppers."

wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 133


with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

Travel

MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777

mercure-danang.com

Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix. THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000

ghmhotels.com

Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800

angsana.com/en/lang_co

Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors. BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888

banyantree.com/en/lang_co

PHOTO BY TRUNG DEL

Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity

134 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com

with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475

la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736

hoangphuonghotel.com

M M M NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222

sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination

2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

junglebeachvietnam.com

On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature. MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666

mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900

novotel-nhatrang.com

This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant,

bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222

sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000

sheraton.com/nhatrang

M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727

ninhchubay.com

Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination. BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322

blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111

cocobeach.net

With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those

who opened it in 1995. JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177

joescafemuine.com

A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix. MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440

miamuine.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000

victoriahotels.asia

Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844

easytigerphongnha@gmail. com

A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night. HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182

phong-nha-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135

phong-nha-cave.com

The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

M M M PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998

beachclubvietnam.com

A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season. MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207

mangobayphuquoc.com

An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar. SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02

salindaresort.com

Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with contemporary design. The


property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.

M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946

catcathotel.com

The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

topasecolodge.com

With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553

binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939

condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525

hotramresort.com

This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-

galows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631

sanctuary.com.vn

The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135

rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222

sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888

thegrandhotramstrip.com

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702

buffalotours.com.vn

A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam. BTA customizes leisure and

corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150

exotravel.com

A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays. HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828

handspan.com

Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations. HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844

hgtravel.com

Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com). INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308

intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses

on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture. TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977

kien@travelsense.asia

A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170

buffalotours.com

This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam. EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19

exotravel.com

A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744

flightravelco.com

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers. GRASSHOPPER ADVENTURES Tel: 0946 704095

grasshopperadventures.com

Escape the bustle with

Southeast Asia’s top rated bike tour company. Run guided day tours to the Mekong Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels. Also organize longer, two to 14-day tours throughout Vietnam. TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754

terraverdetravel.com

If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585

vietnamvespaadventure. com

Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659

backofthebiketours.com

Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. BEENINASIA.COM

beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436

tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.

May 3rd - Oct 31st

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DESTINATION ZERO LA VERANDA

L

a Veranda smells like lemongrass. It feels like the home of French aristocrats in 19th-century Vietnam. Fitting, as this Accor-managed, fourstar resort on a private strip of Phu Quoc’s Duong Dung Beach was built 12 years ago by a French-Indochine family with four generations of history in Southeast Asia. The resort’s 70 rooms face west onto the Gulf of Thailand, which translates into idyllic tropical sunsets. You will instantly understand what it feels like to be a person that uses words like ‘veranda’, enjoys freshly baked croissants at the breakfast buffet, and sips

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handcrafted cocktails in the sea breeze at night. And though it’s easy for these kinds of treatments to feel too lofty, La Veranda manages to keep a foot on the ground. It’s the little things that make this place cozy. Like the kind face that delivers homemade cookies to your door at 7pm, just to say goodnight. You can take a lavender bath in your clawfoot tub, then have a drink in your own personal backyard, enclosed by greenery and bright birds of paradise. Even the landscaping here is intimate. All the walkways are nestled between tall stalks and bushes, so your walks across the grounds are secluded and peaceful.

Once you find your way through the maze of natural hallways, you’ll encounter a saltwater pool rippling in the multicoloured blues of its beautifully-tiled bottom, just a hop and a skip from the ocean. A sprawling manor next door houses the bar and the Pepper Tree, La Veranda’s in-house gourmet dining restaurant, where you can lounge on a wide terrace in candelight, listening to a Filipino band play against the backdrop of waves crashing on the beach. It’s lavish, in an elegant way.

Intimacy Hidden about the grounds are quiet spaces


PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

where couples can romance. The staff are happy to set up intimate dinners or private celebrations. One man even secretly packed his wife’s wedding dress and surprised her with a renewal of their vows on one of these secluded lawns. The resort houses a functional secret garden too, where they grow organic vegetables that guests can pick for their cooking classes, cocktails and salads. Focused on creating ‘memorable moments’, La Veranda has tailored plans for family time in the summer season. Their Very Important Kids (VIK) programme aims to make 12-and-under guests feel

special, with kid-friendly welcome drinks, mother-daughter manicures, miniaturesized resort robes, and even a teddy bear turn-down service. Games of giant checkers on the lawn and a ‘Junior Executive Suite’ equipped with toys and game consoles will keep the VIKs entertained, so parents can hit the spa or the sand. A great place if you’re in need of a recharge, this summer will also see a specialised programme focused on wellness and relaxation. Every day at 8am, you can wake up with seaside yoga, then relax with a neuromuscular spa treatment, and learn to connect with couples’ touch

therapy workshops. For dinner, the resort puts on a rotation of themes, like churrasco night, or a Vietnamese street food buffet. The best thing about La Veranda, though, is its atmosphere. It’s all carefully curated to give you the sort of memories that feel like a bygone era, and look like movie stills in your mind. — Jesse Meadows For more info on MGallery by Sofitel, La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc, go to laverandaresorts.com. To find out about their Inspired Summer packages, click on the special offers button on the top left-hand corner of the homepage

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THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 14: SCIENCE FICTION LANDS OF INDIA

Matt and Nemo pass through some of the highest mountain passes in the world, in North-West India’s Jammu & Kashmir region DAY 247 Manali to… Manali It’s a bit chilly, but what an awesome drive. Such blue sky, snowy peaks ahead and driving through those pine tree forests, in morning light, incredible. And it’s only been 25km when I run into a check-post. And the army guys won’t let me through. A drive back to town; a day wasted on busy bureaucratic trivialities. And I did get the permit in the end, but I’m just so bummed. Second go is never as exciting as the first time. And I really was in my zone.

DAY 248 Onwards I have to pass the check-post before 6am, another dumb rule. And seven layers of warm clothing on my back but I’m freezing. Would be useful to have a winter jacket, but I parted with mine months ago in Lao to lighten my load... Come on sun, warm things up. Such landscapes. Humbling. Unreal.

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And it changes behind every mountain. First those pine trees. Then the valley. Then, archetypal Himalayas. Soon enough, a vast, rocky, high-altitude desert. Some stretches it’s Middle Earth, some stretches it’s Dune. And the road is already closed for the season. No petrol for another 350km, no people aside from an occasional army tent and a few trucks every now and then passing by. I’m stopping every 10km to hug my engine for warmth, crying in pain as my frozen fingers thaw again. By evening, I may as well have gone a few million years back in time. My mind plays images of epic dinosaur battles in the canyon below my cliff-edge camping spot, a fruitless if subconscious attempt to distract myself from the uncontrollable cold shivers.

DAY 249 …and Onwards I have never been this cold in my entire life. Stopped by an army check-post. Hand too

frozen to hold a pen. The guy has to fill out whatever paper he needs for me. And I cross this 5,500m high mountain pass, cold and sick from altitude, my body convulsing, my vision triple and blurry and the sun hiding behind the clouds. And I want to tell the world: “Hey, I’m still here. I’m small and vulnerable.” In this vast, magical and mighty place, where it’s only Him and me, He seems to have forgotten...

DAY 250 Leh A 500m walk to the mysterious, ancient Palace. And I take an hour, stopping every few steps like an old man, out of breath. This altitude is killing me. Afternoon. I find a little, peaceful donkey sanctuary on the outskirts of town. Ah, such friendly, pleasant beings they are. This connection with animals, it always draws out a profound reaction in me. I’m not good


with humans. I prefer the company of less violent and opinionated creatures.

DAY 253 Scam-Fam After the mystical lands of Ladakh, my expectations for Kashmir are pretty high. Not that it’s not impressive, but Kashmir is more populated and the landscapes of Ladakh were simply more… ah those landscapes of Ladakh were unreal. The summer capital of Srinagar. I’m “greeted” with posters of Mahmoud Ahmedinejad and anti-American banners quoting Ayatollah Khamenei. The town and architecture here seems more like what I imagine Pakistan, Afghanistan or the other ‘Stans’ may look like. Pretty awesome, though the day and night Islamic lamentations and dark-clothed processions in the streets are a bit of a drag. And I want to like it. But I get stuck in an awkward arrangement, invited over by a

seemingly friendly family who, it’s become pretty clear, run a scam business preying on unknowing foreigners. I see through it but now am getting shunned and can’t wait till the morning to leave.

DAY 256 Jammu There’s an elephant outside my window. And I spend a good 15 minutes chatting with and trying to comfort him. Warts on his feet and the rough rope around his back grinding into his skin. Not that he seems mistreated, apparently cared for by a local temple, but I feel such pain for those majestic creatures being used for Man’s selfish purposes. There’s an old Royal Palace in town, overgrown and in disrepair. And I get such a rush visiting these places. Old, luxurious, colonial 1800s architecture. Faded, peeling paint; part-collapsed, now-moss-covered staircases. Kids play cricket outside and somewhere I see a photograph of a royal

ceremony taking place in this very ballroom long ago, now merely a distant memory of times long gone. To end the day, a Hindu festival. Three tall paper effigies rise high above a huge crowd in a city square. Firecrackers go off, fireworks shoot out and one by one, the effigies of the Hindu demons are engulfed in flames, marking the victory of good over evil. Almost like Burning Man, but without the hipsters.

DAY 262 Goodbye India. And I’ve completed “the loop”. And I’ve covered so much distance. And I don’t know when it passed. A day’s visit to Amritsar and its Golden Temple and with three days left on the visa, passing through Dharamsala, a hello to the Dalai Lama, I’m off to Nepal. For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky production blog at www. EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog

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Hanoi

Day Tripper: Hanoi / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Student Eye / Bar Stool / Top Eats / Medical Buff Photo by Trung Del

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Hanoi Essentials

ALTERNATIVE HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER

gkaren@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com

Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available. HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE

issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth

A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Only available online, but a great information source.

M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM (BBGV) 193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 6674 0945

HANOI OIS

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

NETBALL CLUB

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX

The chamber of commerce for all things relating to the UK and British-born expats living in the capital. Puts on monthly networking events, gala dinners, fundraising events and much more.

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

bbgv.org

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

ccifv.org

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228

eurochamvn.org

ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

icham.org

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh

sbav-hanoi.org

M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA

23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.

TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE

M M M

LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP

VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151

CLUBS & SOCIETIES

XUNHASABA

AMERICAN CLUB

ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

EVENT SPACE

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790

amchamhanoi.com

AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994

auschamvn.org

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850 GOETHE INSTITUT GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251

goethe.de/hanoi

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP

hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115

thehanoiclub.com

hanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164

vphanoi-lespace.com

M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

SKATESHOP

THREE TREES

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

JEWELLERY

booskateshop.com

CHULA 43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho; 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 258960

chulafashion.com

The work of Spanish couple Laura and Diego, this homegrown Hanoi brand describes themselves as creating wearable art. Designing pieces that are trendy, elegant, Western and yet distinctly Asian, their shop and arts space focuses on lifestyle, with regular events and more. CONTRABAND

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

AIR ASIA airasia.com

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

M M M

AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088

hanoicookingcentre.com

Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

AIRLINES

HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE

147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045

hiddenhanoi.com.vn

A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE

CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS

8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

L’ATELIER WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES

33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758

ateliervietnam.com

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831

Mekong-quilts.org

Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in

SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com


Hanoi Essentials

several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

Tel: (04) 3928 5190

artvietnamgallery.com

Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789

Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks.

Daloc.vn

DON’S TAY HO

MANZI

BICYCLE RENTALS

GALLERY & BAR / CAFE

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

Stocks organic vegetables from Sapa, Soc Son and Dalat; seafood from Hai Phong and Quang Ninh; Norwegian salmon and highlands pork and beef. Also offers foreign spices and convenience store products from Japan and Thailand. Free delivery for any purchase above VND400,000.

CYCLING

Dons-bistro.com

facebook.com/manzihanoi

LINHMART 116, D4 Dormitory, Giang Vo, Ba Dinh (near Ha Noi Hotel) Tel: 0936 491136 or 0916 504548

linhmart.com

BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS

Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices.

70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941

NHA SAN COLLECTIVE

KITCHEN ART

GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS

KITCHENWARE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316

38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770

GREEN BIKE CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST

15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES

34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES

29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156

thbc.vn

DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC

nhasanstudio.org

The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.

DENTAL CLINIC

VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM

3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434

NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM

australiandentalclinic.com PEACE DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286

peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho

serenitydentalclinic.com

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555

westcoastinternational.com

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

GALLERIES ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,

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Hanoigourmet.com

kitchenart.vn L'S PLACE

A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

GROCERIES / DELI

First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

LAN SALON Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC)

acc.vn/en

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems. BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

NATURALLY VIETNAM

HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130

THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE

17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854 VEGGIE’S GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701

warehouse-asia.com

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DA LOC

DINH HAIR SALON

WINE RETAILER

HAIR SALON

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER

The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500

INDOCHINA PLAZA

241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596

LOTTE CENTER

54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016

lottecenter.com.vn PARKSON

bumrungrad.vn

Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666

JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH)

229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400

136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717

RED APRON 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

SHOPPING MALLS

TOP-END SALON

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

M M M ANNAM GOURMET

48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907

GROCERY SHOP

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

workroomfour.com

WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER

44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (4) 3265 6888

WINE RETAILER

DENTAL CLINIC

JUST.IN.M

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009

Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts. WORK ROOM FOUR

162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366

CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS

naturallyvietnam.com

vnfam.vn

UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON

DELI / WINE SHOP

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131

SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888

HANOI GOURMET

HAIR STREAM

parkson.com.vn PICO MALL

INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL 32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3715 3666

jieh.vn

JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards, the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany), and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss - Germany) for refractive surgery. Top-end customer service and a friendly, contemporary environment add to the mix.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748

vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are

SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999

VINCOM ROYAL CITY

72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550


used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service. FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100

hfh.com.vn

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL

55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880

hongngochospital.vn

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666

Internationalsos.com

Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL

12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231 VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556

vinmec.com

M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370

insuranceinasia.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111

libertyinsurance.com.vn

REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488

M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435

bishanoi.com

A selective, independent, co-educational day school. Provides a British-style education following the

National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards. CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878

concordiahanoi.org

A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140

hisvietnam.com

With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students.

for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2, Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818

ANH DUNG

HANOI RENTING

MOTORBIKE RENTALS

RENTALS

37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096

No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828

Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers.

PHUNG MOTORBIKE

kinderworld.net/sis

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551

unishanoi.org

Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims

MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS

MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS

106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464 MOTORBIKE RENTALS

13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105 VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS

17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.

PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS

6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3718 6332

fair-realestate.com GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS

R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589

gialonghousing.com

hanoirenting.com

LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS

38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999

houseinhanoi.com

VIETLONG HOUSING RENTALS

21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203

vietlonghousing.com

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511

vn.alliedpickfords.com

The largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves,

isvietnam.org

A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small. KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209

kinderworld.net

Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418

hanoi.qsi.org

wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 143


DAY TRIPPER: HANOI THE BUDDHIST MOUNTAIN RETREAT

Billy Gray strikes east out of Hanoi to Yen Tu, a Buddhist complex on the road to Halong

W

hen I decided to escape Hanoi for some clean air, a friend of mine suggested Yen Tu Mountain — home to a Buddhist meditation retreat hidden in the mountains about 120 kilometres east of Hanoi. Waking up at 5.30am, myself and our photographer, Trung, set off at the crack of dawn for a three-hour drive to Nui Yen Tu, equipped with a camera, a bottle of water, a notepad and half a dozen Kinh Do chocolate banh mi. Our drive took us

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along Highway 18 towards Halong City, a mix and match of busy towns, dusty tarmac and the occasional curious buffalo on the side of the road. About halfway there we encountered a grandiose victory monument and stopped to take some photos and a well-needed break from driving. By the time we finally reached the mountains, Trung had sped ahead and in trying to catch up with him on the winding roads meandering into the hills I was for a moment oblivious to the astonishing

scenery unfolding around us. Littered all around are small trails leading from the road to ornate bridges and then into little temples covered by the uninterrupted canopy; and not another person in sight. We reached the base of the mountain path, parked our bikes and set out on foot to the first leg of the ascent.

A Feast For Road-Sore Eyes The mountain is home to a number of impressive temples, in fact, there is so much there that it’s impractical to


PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

think you could see it all in one visit. A sprawling complex of pagodas, waterfalls and untouched forest are connected by a stone staircase that meanders up the mountain like an artery. At the peak of the kilometre-high mountain is Dong Pagoda. Built in 2006, the structure is made entirely from bronze and weighs 70 tons. The craftsmanship is truly something to behold, especially when trying to imagine how the materials to build it were carried there. The atmosphere around the pagoda is

one of calm and reflection; traditional music plays gently in the background while Buddhist pilgrims pray and make offerings. A heavy mist wraps itself around the rocks surrounding the bronze masterpiece and faint smoke from burning incense lingers among solemn faces. Yen Tu Mountain is definitely worth a day trip. If the thought of hiking up a mountain intimidates you then fear not, there’s a cable car that takes you directly to the top for VND120,000. I just wish we’d

known that before we climbed halfway up under the midday sun.

Getting There From Hanoi head north towards Noi Bai Airport on AH14. Turn right onto QL18 and follow the road for 90km until you reach Duc Chinh. At Duc Chinh turn left onto TL326 and follow for 30km before turning left onto Yen Tu. The journey takes around three hours. Buses are also available.

wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 145


THE ALCHEMIST BODY INTELLIGENCE

“U

se your head,” we’ve been urged when dealing with analytical problem solving, but as humans we tend to over-use our heads. Our lives contain more than mental equations. We are also emotional beings, and emotions are felt in the body. Recognizing that our intelligence is not only coming from the brain in our head and that we have multiple sources of wisdom allows us to better understand how we are wired.

Put Your Heart Into It Recent studies show that the heart is more than a mere pump and has a major role in forming our human consciousness. Researchers have been exploring the role the heart plays in creating emotional experience and accessing intuition. It has been discovered that the heart sends significantly more signals to the brain than the brain sends to the heart, and that our emotions are reflected in the heart’s rhythmic patterns. The nervous system within the heart enables it to learn, remember, and make

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functional decisions independent of the brain’s cerebral cortex. Furthermore, research has demonstrated that the signals the heart continuously sends to the brain influence the function of higher brain centres involved in perception, cognition and emotional processing. To illustrate the heart’s far-reaching power, researchers theorize that the heart’s autonomic functioning and intelligence is the explanation for memory and personality transfer in heart-transplant recipients.

That Gut Feeling The enteric nervous system, (ENS), embedded in the wall of the gut, works independently and in conjunction with the brain. The ENS controls digestion and plays an important role in our physical and mental wellbeing. Like the heart, the information flow between the gut and the brain is mostly one-way, from the gut to the brain. Scientific evidence suggests that the chemicals and nerves in the gut likely influence our emotions. For example, 95 percent of the body’s serotonin, a

BY KAREN GAY

neurotransmitter contributing towards feelings of wellbeing, is found in the gut. The chemicals and nerves in the gut partly determine our mental wellbeing. Needless to say, our diet directly affects our mental and emotional state.

The Trinity Recent scientific studies are now providing evidence to suggest that human consciousness emerges from the brain and the body acting together, thus pointing to a holistic model of body intelligence. The direct links between the brain, the heart and the gut indicate an intricate whole-body phenomenon long known to metaphysical and natural healers. This brings to light an expanded and deepened awareness of our consciousness; of the body’s internal physiological, emotional and mental processes; and allows for a greater sense of self-awareness and understanding. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com


Hanoi

office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam. JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Essentials

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762

agsfourwinds.com

A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.

MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281

elitefitness.com.vn

The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495

nshapefitness.vn SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805

STUDIO FIVE

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

VIETCLIMB

santaferelo.com

YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515

studio5.vn

with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

vietclimb.vn

Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym

SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

bosua.vn

HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757

hanoisport.vn

ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉ YOGA & NUTRITION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel: 0904 356 561

zenithyogavietnam.com

The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast variety of classes and levels in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa, Ashtanga and Pilates while also offering Restorative, Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga, Meditation sessions, and Kundalini classes. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, clothes and yoga props, as well as a café serving up the homemade vegetarian meals, cakes and coffee.

MMM SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT

CLIMBING CENTRE

40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185

BOO SKATESHOP

SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS

19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6273 3095

13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305

umove.com.vn

SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem

bigc.vn CITIMART Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

metro.com.vn


THE THERAPIST TRAPPED

BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA

Dear Douglas, Please tell me how to stop worrying. I am a 25-year-old Vietnamese woman, who works in Hanoi. My family is from a town outside of Hanoi. My father is controlling my life. He is never happy with my decisions and now I cannot sleep. My work colleague quit six weeks ago and my boss still hasn’t hired a person to replace her. I have to do the work of two people and have no free time for myself. I want to quit and find another job, but my father says I should stay where I am. He doesn’t care if I am exhausted and bored with life. What should I do? How can I have less stress? I think my future will be unhappy because I cannot live my own life. — Trapped Dear Trapped, I can tell that you are feeling lots of intense feelings… frustration, anger, fear and helplessness. Those feelings have become so strong that they are affecting your ability to sleep, which is something that is important to feeling OK. I think you are feeling trapped because you can’t seem to feel more calm and trust that these problems will find their own solutions. So the most important thing is to work on becoming calmer. Your mind tells you that you have to solve the problems in order to become calmer, but I think works the opposite way. First, work on slowing things down by acknowledging your feelings… of course you are frustrated and angry. Of course you are fearful and worried. Of course you feel helpless when your father doesn’t allow you to make decisions for yourself or tries to control your life too much. We don’t want your feelings to be ignored… they are real and come from the experiences you are having. We only want

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to them to be less intense. The problem with intense feelings is that we make decisions to escape from them. We react to our situation, rather than respond. There is a difference. When we react, we make decisions that are often not well thought out and we sometimes regret what we have done. When we respond, this happens when our emotions are balanced with our thoughts and our values, and we can trust the decisions better. It is important that you take a time-out from the pressure you are under. Say to yourself: “I cannot make decisions when I am feeling this stressed, so I will postpone any decisions for one week so that I can take the time to calm down first.” Focus your attention on things that will help you relax your mind and body. Exercise is one important way to relieve stress. Some exercises can be done in short amounts of time even in your workplace. There are also guided meditations and mindfulness trainings that don’t take much time, but do help you calm your mind and relax your whole being.

Look on YouTube. There is a lot we know about what helps people sleep when they are having a hard time. Learn what is best to do when you cannot sleep. It includes how you get prepared for a night’s rest, what you do if you are lying in bed worrying or having ruminating thoughts, and what not to do when you are awake in the night… i.e. watching a video screen. I suggest you go to meet with a psychotherapist to help you with all of this. It might take a few sessions to understand what triggers your intense feelings and how you can work towards a calmer response. It might also include ways for you to learn how to be more assertive in the way you represent yourself to your father or your boss, so that they can better understand how you feel and where your limits are. Everything in life seems to go better when we are calm. We cannot control what happens to us, but we can learn to gain a calmness that helps us to respond in the best way. I wish calmness to you, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed


Hanoi On the Town

BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem

facebook.com/bar84hanoi

Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

EDEN HANOI

MADAKE

SIDEWALK HANOI

THE UNICORN BAR

OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE

BAR & EVENT SPACE

DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE

COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE

End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho

facebook.com/edengargen

When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list. ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE

88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029

88group.vn

A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar.

FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211

linkhanoi.com

A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI

15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix. BARBETTA ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat. CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970

cama-atk.com

With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170

facebook.com/hrc.hanoi

Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY

1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088 LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT

284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993

facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi

Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen, especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665

facebook.com/madakehanoi

With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint. MAO’S RED LOUNGE LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers. PHUC TAN LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places. POLITE PUB LONG BAR

5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches. RED RIVER TEA ROOM LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho

facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly. ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR

61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087

facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi

Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.

199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi

A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty. SPY BAR HOLE IN THE WALL

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for. TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space. THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB

Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333

facebook.com/Nest. Lounge.09XuanDieu

The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats. It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas. The views here are pretty eye-catching, too. THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116

republic.vn

A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace. THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE

19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901

therooftop.vn

The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience.

2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. Now, as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL

114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6675 9838

tracyspub.com

A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi. VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922

vuvuzela.com.vn

When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.

CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE

2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. They also do coffee. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240

coffeebean.com

This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee

wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 149


STUDENT EYE IDENTITY CRISIS

C

hoosing a single number, a single image or a single anything to represent a large and diverse community was never an easy task. Perhaps this is why most democratic elections are so challenging, be it to realise, to follow or to compete in. Yet, they are so intriguing, undeniably magnetising. In a way, voting and elections satisfy one of our most basic human needs to voice ourselves, and in extension, to take part in moulding a solid identity for our community.

A Matter of Logos While the world anxiously peers over the US primaries — votes that will impact the lives of some 300 million people — one smaller decision was made; the French School of Hanoi donned a new official logo! Through an online vote, almost all students, teachers, staff and parents clearly stated their positions and proudly declared their loyalties. A few clicks and hard choices later, the result was announced; a blue calligraphyesque version of the temple of literature will now be ever-present on our walls, websites and minds. The majority has spoken; unfortunately I was not part of it. As the new logo stared at me through

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BY TO THU PHUONG

obligations of everyday Hanoi. Even so, could it be possible that this moratorium was only my own self-made illusion?

A Matter of Unity the computer screen, I stared back and wondered: where did I go wrong? What could possibly have caused this discord between an essential landmark of my childhood and me? “Let it go,” my friends all told me, but I couldn’t; I wanted to understand what pushed those around me to vote the way they did. If both wanted the best image for the school, how could our votes have altered so much? After all, Cartesian philosophy clearly says there’s only one real reasonable choice to every problem or dilemma. Which means either one of two things; they’re wrong or I’m wrong. What was so hard about voting for a logo? The obvious criteria was that it had to embody Le Lycée Français Alexandre Yersin, by that I mean the whole entity, the whole spirit of the school. To me, the French school has always been an existence independent of its surroundings. In its own way, an oasis where alternative ideas and lifestyles can blossom, exempt from the invisible

I will soon become obsolete, a thing of the past; nothing more than another name on the alumni page of the school. Maybe the reason why I can’t understand the new choice of logo is because I’m no longer part of the unity? The end of my days at the French school also happens to be the beginning of a new chapter for it; new communication strategies, new recognitions and a new building on the way. One sluggish morning, as I opened the closet to choose an outfit for one of the last school days of my life, I reached for the new school shirt. Made of cotton and of a simple white and blue colour combination, it had the new logo printed right in the centre. Despite it being much too large for me, I couldn’t help but feel a small sense of pride as I tried it on. I wore it to school that day, and thought: perhaps I can’t be part of the school’s new identity, but it will always be a big part of mine. To Thu Phuong is in Year 12 and is shortly finishing her studies at the French School of Hanoi. This will be her last column


Hanoi On the Town

and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

congcaphe.com

With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE

89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. DUY TRI

Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

highlandscoffee.com.vn

With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY

22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071

joma.biz

Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt.

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE

16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night. SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times. TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR

VIETNAMESE CAFÉ

43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.

and pan-Asian mains.

MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

MAISON DE TET DÉCOR

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

LIFESTYLE CAFE

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub

facebook.com/manzihanoi

COURTYARD CAFE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea. HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE

2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN

5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;

36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722 On-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occasional farmers’ markets.

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117

A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.

MOC CAFE

YOLO

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL

FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE

14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western

32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh

facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops

Boasting an abundance of communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly

quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. Open 24 hours. ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com

A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.

EAT AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155

alfrescogroup.com

CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER

4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6292 1044

chopsvietnam.com

Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint, and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served up with locally brewed craft beer, and this one’s a bit of a winner. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098

facebook.com/cousins.hanoi

A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN

AMATO TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE

1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01227 367470 Located next to Binh Minh Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion tapas bar by night and a French restaurant during the day. Tiny, hip and yet surprisingly spacious, Amato offers an international dining and drinking experience in the heart of Hanoi.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224

aulacdobrazil.com

A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.

ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT

288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945

asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD

129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment.

18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available. DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831

daluva.com

A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list.

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BAR STOOL ZONE 17

R

ecently reopened to cater for Hanoi’s late-night enthusiasts, Zone 17 does nine-to-five the other way around. Situated on a side road running parallel to Yen Phu, it’d be easy not to notice the neon sign among the industrial surroundings of Hanoi’s latest watering hole. Once inside, Zone 17 gives a gritty first impression, but sit up at the bar and you’ll be greeted by open and friendly staff, ready to provide relaxed and comfortable service. At Zone 17, a nice drink doesn’t make you resent your bank balance — ask for a margarita and you’ll wait as long as it takes to make a good margarita, and it’ll only set you back VND70,000 — the same price as a standard spirit and mixer. The beers come in at sober prices too; a glass of Larue costs VND30,000, and they’re not shy about advertising promotions for all your favourite poison.

From Dusk ‘Til Dawn Via Spy Bar With the weekend taking the brunt of the business, the dance-floor is big enough to cater to a Saturday night crowd. Regular events keep the calendar busy; anyone who was present for their St. Patrick's Day party can testify that they know how to get the place going. In May, UK hip-hop pioneer Jam Baxter has chosen the venue to film the video to an upcoming single from his latest album. If weekdays are more suited to you then you have the option to choose your own music and take bets on the pool table in a more down-tempo atmosphere. The sound system will leave your ears ringing after a night of deep house and old-school tunes, and on weekends before the 5am atxi home the late-night barbeque will fill the hole in your gut before heading to bed. On the word of taxis, if you find yourself outside Spy Bar in the Old Quarter around 11pm, you might notice some stragglers excitedly boarding a bus — Zone 17 have arranged for buses to ferry weekend troopers from Hoan Kiem to their doorstep, for free, and have been known to set your night off with a free drink on boarding. The team at Zone 17 have big ideas for the future as well, with plans to expand the venue and open a new room, as well as continue to bring in bigger and better names to grace their stage. Certainly something to keep an eye on, this once vacant side alley off Yen Phu could be the

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PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL

sleeping dragon waiting to ignite a new chapter in Hanoi’s nightlife. — Billy Gray

Zone 17 is located at 17 Hong Ha, Ba Dinh, Ha Noi, parallel to Yen Phu


EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991

elgaucho.com.vn

With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN

59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959

foodshop45.com

Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. FRENCH GRILL

up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC

5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE

facebook.com/frenchgrill

With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286

greentangerinehanoi.com

A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving

An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list. JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325

alfrescosgroup.com

Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World.

NORTH INDIAN

10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668

indiapalacehn@vnn.vn

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

TOP-END GRILL

JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

alfrescogroup.com

J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL

G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered. JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388

KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337

koto.com.au

The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. KY Y

labadiane-hanoi.com

On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.

namese-French fusion cuisine. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN

LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO

44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

thbc.vn

Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays.

36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968

linguinifini.com/en/hanoi

With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas. LUNA D’AUTUNNO

LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509

MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN

23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven. MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

CLASSIC ITALIAN

LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN

5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950

lasalsa-hanoi.com

A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338

lunadautunno.vn

This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list.

JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors.

dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317

PAN-CHINESE

Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Viet-

fortuna.vn

verticale-hanoi.com

MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH

11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207

cafe-des-arts.com

A contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini. Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board.

Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

MOOSE AND ROO

Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus,

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

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TOP EATS OVEN D’OR

“S

orry, I’m eating lobster thermidor and drinking chardonnay,” is not a text message I ever thought I would send in response to a coffee invite, until I went to the wine brunch at Oven d’Or. This place understands Sundays on a level that I have not quite seen before. There’s a fondue station with not one, but two kinds of chocolate fountains, a crepe and waffle counter, an entire suckling pig laid out for carving, an a la carte grill, a sushi bar, and, of course, the help-yourself booze table. There’s quite a selection in the beverage department; careful attention is paid to food pairings here, so there’s chardonnay

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for your fish and shiraz for your roast. The Tiger drafts are free-flowing, and DIY cocktails are on a rotational basis, situated next to an array of fresh juices like watermelon, peach and sugarcane, so guests can get creative. Not only is this brunch delicious, but it’s also interactive. I never considered eating sushi for brunch before. But this place changed my entire thought process about the meal. With a chef exchange training programme in Japan that results in the most authentic rolls possible, the sushi bar is truly impressive. Sushi is not just about the fish, executive assistant manager Sashi Kumar tells me, but a delicate balance of Japanese vinegar and quality rice.

Impressive A red hot Singaporean chilli crab with intense flavour; a creamy, rich seafood pasta with shrimp, prawns and shellfish. Both dishes are cooked in front of you at the live cooking station, a feast for longing eyes, a banquet for a hungry stomach. Close by, rainbows of row and sliced fish abound, but the masterpiece is a multilayered sushi cake, featuring smoked eel, seaweed, Norwegian salmon and rice, topped with juicy orange salmon roe. Salty, tangy, savoury, smoky — there are so many flavours here that I almost felt like I didn’t need to eat anything else. After two, I almost had a third, but luckily, our


PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

photographer took my plate away and reminded me to pace myself, for we’d only just begun to feast. After the sushi starter, you can move on to the meats. I’m not kidding when I say there is an entire suckling pig roast laid out on the buffet table, and a grill where you can choose your own meat cuts and watch the chef cook them up for you. Sashi says they intentionally placed this grandiose display front and centre, so it’s the first impression a guest gets when they walk in. “It’s [there] so people can see that we don’t hold back.”

Richesse We had the tender New Zealand lamb with a

black pepper sauce, and pan-fried French foie gras served with a sweet apple sauce. The most interesting dish on the carving station, though, was the salmon Wellington, a play on the English beef classic that was leaner, but still retained a level of richness apt for this lavish brunch. Course number three was lobster thermidor, with succulent pieces of lobster and mushrooms slathered in creamy goodness, stuffed into the shell and topped with an oven-baked cheese crust. There was one more course we had to squeeze in; dessert. We played in the fondue fountain, covering strawberries and pineapples in hot flowing chocolate,

and then created a colourful collection of sweets for our table. We also had to pay a visit to the waffle and crepe station, where a bright green pandan waffle was cooked fresh for us. I immediately slathered it in Nutella (obviously), and a scoop of Germanimported hazelnut ice cream. At capacity, my stomach screamed no, but my mouth said yes. — Jesse Meadows Oven D’Or is at the Sheraton Hanoi Hotel, K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. The Sunday Brunch buffet costs VND1.35 million ++ and includes a free flow of wine, soft drinks, cocktails and beer. Children five to 11 go for half price and under-fives go for free. For more info click on sheratonhanoi.com

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MEDICAL BUFF ADRENALINE JUNKIES

W

hy does becoming an expatriate bring out the Extreme Sports Expat? Do we have to become more adventurous than friends and family back home? A recent survey of expats revealed that just over half expect to take part in extreme sports while abroad; off-piste skiing, quad biking, kite surfing, sand boarding, kayaking, white-water rafting and rock climbing are booming. The expat community seems not short of enthusiasts and the sports are getting more dangerous. FMP recently had a patient, a 32-year-old female who had the adrenaline rush to do some quad biking in Phan Thiet, Vietnam. The white sand dunes were refreshing after Hanoi but what resulted was a really painful injury to her shoulder. She began to feel pain in the front of her shoulder a few days later that gradually radiated down the side of her arm. She was finding sleep painful and began to get a slight weakness in her arm. For the first week she was taking painkillers but was having difficulty with routine activities such as combing her hair and reaching behind her back to do up her dress. What happened one day at work was a snapping sensation in her shoulder

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and then immediate weakness in her arm. She came to FMP and was seen by a doctor who was able to diagnose a rotator cuff tear; when this tear occurs, there is frequently weakening of the muscles around the arm and decreased range of motion of the shoulder. Fortunately surgery wasn’t necessary this time on the tendon, but the muscles around the arm remained weak. Rehabilitation plays a critical role in the non-surgical treatment of a rotator cuff tear, so the doctor was able to advise a physical therapy program to regain strength and improve functioning in her shoulder.

Compress With some detailed history-taking, the physiotherapist was able to find out the patient had a history of high-energy sports activities combined with a desk job which left her sitting in a relatively fixed position for long periods of time trying to meet deadlines. She explained sometimes she experienced aches and pains in her neck, shoulder, wrist and elbow joints that indicated the onset of repetitive strain injury (RSI). This type of injury can result in damage to tendons, muscles, nerves and soft tissues from repeated physical movements over time.

BY LAUREL WINTER

Expats are found to be sitting for long periods of time at their computers in relatively fixed positions, performing repetitive movements while trying to meet deadlines. Aches and pains can be felt in the neck, shoulder, upper and lower back, wrist and elbow joints; the nerves in the hand for example become compressed, causing weakness and/or tingling in the finger. Make sure you don’t neglect the importance of posture as you sit down — posture can have an effect on home and sporting life, causing long-term damage that will haunt you in later years. Don’t wait for the pain or swelling to subside before making an appointment. Taking painkillers long-term is not a remedy; you may inadvertently be doing something that is making the problem worse than better. The sooner you see a doctor and physiotherapist the quicker a treatment program can be started which will minimize the amount of time you have to miss your adrenaline fix. Laurel Winter graduated from The University of Newcastle, Australia with a Bachelor of Physiotherapy with Honours in 2006. She is available for appointments at FMP Kim Ma Clinic and at corporate offices


Hanoi On the Town

changing imagery on the walls. MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL

The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470

mooseandroo.com

There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides. Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town. NAMASTE HANOI

PANE E VINO

THE KAFE

PAN-ITALIAN

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

facebook.com/panevinoHN

thekafe.vn

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner. PIZZA 4P’S

namastehanoi.com

The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it. NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801

nineteen11.com.vn

Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier.

GOURMET VIETNAMESE

4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337

hanoixua.vn/en

Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout.

WANNAWAFFLE WAFFLES

VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK

20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO

67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA

1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) COM RANG DUA BO

pizza4ps.com

MIXED GLASS NOODLES

POTS ‘N PANS

Waffles, but not as you know it. Here it’s about taking this humble dish and recreating it in a contemporary environment in as many ways as is humanly possible. Ever had a matcha waffle? What about a waffle stuffed with cream cheese and smoked salmon? How about a banoffee pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaffle serves up all these creations and much more. WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718

PHO CUON HUNG BEN

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444 Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local ingredients.

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204

potsnpans.vn

Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355

sainthonore.com.vn

This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ

OLD HANOI

Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

BIT TET NGON SO 5

27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem; 138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; Unit 108, Indochina Plaza, 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay

JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT

PAN-INDIAN

46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245

25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513

thecartfood.com

Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

facebook.com/wannawaffle

57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da MIEN TRON HANH 7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES

54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO

48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem

PHO CUON

26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City. ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN

247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com/zenith-cafe

A vegetarian and vegan café connected to Zenith Yoga that respects yoga philosophy. Simple living, mindful thinking and 100 percent natural ingredients, all the food here is served up without additional additives or MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. All dishes are made in house.

STREETFOOD

PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA

7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA

1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO

49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO

10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO

13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO

5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem

3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM

18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho

PHO TU LUN PHO BO

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem BANH CUON HANG GA BANH CUON

14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem

XOI HANG HOM STICKY RICE

44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem BANH DA TRON BANH DA TRON

6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho BANH MI 25 STREETSIDE BANH MI


158 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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Day Tripper: HCMC / Business Buff / Body and Temple / Bar Stool / Know Your City / Top Eats / A World of Good Photo by Vu Ha Kim Vy 160 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com


HCMC Essentials

BAKERIES

M M M BOOKSHOPS

ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ

223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1

phamngulao.abcbakery.co

Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available. BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

breadtalkvietnam.com

A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting. HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY

harvestbaking.net

With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details. L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072

lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS

FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1

fahasa.com

Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts. LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

pnc.com.vn

Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS

BAKERY & CAFE

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

touslesjoursbakery.com

The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam. VOELKER BAKERY

39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066

voelker-vietnam.com

French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

merce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

amchamvietnam.com

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912

auschamvn.org

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430

bbgv.org

CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754

canchamvietnam.org

Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Com-

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922

nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045

pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046

sbghcm.org

M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories. L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565

lusinespace.com

Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles. MANDARINA TAILOR-MADE SHOES

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394

anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm

This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers. BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET

174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826

Bamskateshop.com.vn BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING

1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084

ORANGE

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING

10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928

ginkgo-vietnam.com

Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701

ipa-nima.com

DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

BUDGET CLOTHING

152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620

9am to 10pm PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING

232 Bui Vien, Q1

papaya-tshirt.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS

39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556

triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588

Ubesthouse.com VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

GINKGO

SHOPPING MALLS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364

ambrij.com

A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM, corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts from international brands like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix,

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court


DAY TRIPPER: HCMC GIANG DIEN PARK

With a public holiday at his disposal, Jon Aspin jumped at the chance to swim in a waterfall 40km out of town.

W

hen photographer Rodney suggested we go to Giang Dien on the King’s Day public holiday, where there was a waterfall he knew we could swim in, I didn’t have to think about it for long. Setting off, I had a second reason to get excited. This would be the maiden voyage of my new toy, the Lifan 125 I’d just bought from a Swiss guy, who’d driven it down from Hanoi. As keen as I was to stretch the legs of my new steed, it was still a relief when after 45 minutes of dusty, busy highway, we turned off the northbound QL51, by-passing Dong Nai’s provincial capital of Bien Hoa, and into the area where Giang Dien Park is.

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Pay Off The pay-off to road travel in this country can be sweet, and arriving at the grounds, I was filled with optimism. To me it looked exactly the type of space expats would love, if only it were closer to the city. It’s a shame, but ultimately not enough people explore these simple-to-find places independently. After parking and paying entry, a tree-lined cobblestone path led us up to a campground featuring man-made lakes, postcard perfect bridges and rotundas adjacent to fields of well-maintained grass. Rare. All of it added up to what we agreed was very date-friendly territory, and there were plenty of couples doing just that.

For the most part, however, it was families and teenagers having a great time. Smiling freely and dripping wet in jeans slipping below boxer shorts, a group of the latter approached us as we neared the hub of the park. In possession of that ubiquitous item, the selfie-stick, we managed to get our heads in several group shots. It was funny, an hour ago we were just another couple of white guys in the city, yet here we were, beacons of curiosity and intrigue.

Delivery Continuing on, I was anxious to see this waterfall that had been promised me, and I’m happy to say, after checking out the


PHOTOS BY RODNEY HUGHES

various levels of accommodation on offer — you can stay here in anything from a tent raised off the floor by a timber deck, to a three-star fibro hut — that my new travel buddy delivered. Watched on by the ever-vigilant lifeguards, after rounding a couple of corners and gradually blending into our new environment, there before me was a perfectly swimmable, cascading waterfall and lake. It looked hectic at first, speckled by dozens of bright orange Vietnamese swimmers in mandatory life jackets, but there was no way I wasn’t going in. Not wanting to waste any more time in the stifling heat, beers were soon ordered, bamboo recliners were located and paid

for, and, satisfied that we’d done sufficient exploring of the nature park all around us, we settled down in the shade for what was a very chill, very relaxing time, swimming between drinks and chatting about the vagaries of what had brought us, and keeps us here in this country, garnering some local attention as we went about it. At first reluctant to don the luminous life-jacket, two Heinekens in, it was very much a case of ‘if you can’t beat them, join them’, and before too long I was loving it, swimming and climbing over the waterfall’s rocks, chatting with locals and wholeheartedly enjoying being part of such a fun and innocent atmosphere. Completely refreshed, it was just the break

from routine that we both needed. Mindful of the highway journey home, we soon cut ourselves off and headed back to the big smoke.

Information From Ho Chi Minh City get on the Hanoi Highway (QL1A) and head north until you reach the bridge over the Dong Nai River. Go over and turn right onto QL51 immediately after, before continuing on for about another 15km. Look for a sign for ‘Giang Dien Park’ and turn right, then follow more signs to get there. For more info click on giangdien.com.vn.

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BUSINESS BUFF A BREAKDOWN OF VIETNAM’S GDP IN 2016

W

e constantly hear that Vietnam’s GDP (Gross Domestic Product) is growing at rates of around 5% or 6% a year. In 2014, this reached US$186.2 billion, almost triple what it was in 2006. While this is touted almost universally as being positive, what exactly does this mean? And what is the outlook for 2016? GDP represents the monetary value of all goods and services produced within a nation’s geographic borders over a specified period of time. One method of calculating the GDP of a country is called the Expenditure Approach. The Expenditure Approach is calculated using the sum of four categories of expenditure of output. The four categories are: (1) Gross Private Consumption (C) (2) Gross Private Investment (I) (3) Government Purchases (G) (4) Net Exports (NX) or (X-M) Giving the following formula: GDP = C + I + G + NX

Gross Private Consumption (C) This category comprises all goods and services purchased by households in Vietnam and includes spending on services, nondurable goods and durable goods. With a low-inflation outlook due to low energy and food prices and a stable currency, this component of GDP is expected to remain strong in Vietnam in 2016. Interest rates, while high by international standards at 6.5%, remain low compared to recent years in Vietnam, which generally means households will save less and spend more. This is further

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supported by strengthening consumer confidence and the growth in private consumption.

Gross Private Investment (I) Net private investment is gross private investment less depreciation. This category includes fixed investments (factories, machines etc.), inventory investments (material to be assembled, goods etc.) and residential investment (purchase of private properties by the household sector). In Vietnam this category shows high growth in all areas. The rise in credit available (12% September 2015 year-on-year) and the increase in properties available for purchase (particularly in Ho Chi Minh City) supports this component of GDP. The role on effects of recent international trade agreements supports continued fixed investments into the country as FDI as companies prepare to take advantage of the new trade terms, particularly in exports. Lastly, the inventory required to support the robust growth in exports particularly in the technology sector (telephones, electronics and computers), reflects the high import content of Vietnam’s manufacturing exports.

Government Spending (G) This category is the total spending on goods and services by local, provincial and federal government. Recent World Bank reports suggest rising government capital expenditure and this reflects the government’s commitment to the three Rs (railroads, roads, rivers) strategy to invest in

BY SHANE DILLON

infrastructure throughout the country. This can be seen in new highways, deepwater ports and railroad improvements and new developments. Government spending will be affected by lower oil revenue and corporate tax cuts and contingent liabilities associated with state-owned enterprise debts and state-owned banks. The currency, while currently stable, could be negatively affected by rate changes in the US and this will affect the large public financing needs and the country's costs to raise funds in the international bond market.

Net Exports (NX) This category is the value of the country’s total exports less total imports. This results in a country having a trade surplus, deficit or trade balance. Vietnam’s rising trade deficit (spending more on imports than they earn on exports) means Vietnam’s trade position weakened in 2015, narrowing the current account surplus and this is projected to narrow significantly in 2016 due to moderating exports, sustained import growth stocked by strong domestic consumer demands for foreign goods.

Summary Two of the four categories remain strong (C) and (I) and two categories reflect drains on GDP growth (G) and (NX). The baseline outlook is positive for Vietnam on balance, however downside risks will dominate in 2016. Shane can be contacted at shanedillon@ pacificcross.com


Ungaro and more. Also do event management services.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734

overlandclub.jp

AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com

The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days. SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485

saigoncookingclass.com

Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349

vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE

268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946

atc-craft.com

AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023

austinhomeinteriors.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com

This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. CHI LAI

VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

HOME FURNISHINGS

175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543

chilai.com

This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach

and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories. EM EM SOUVENIRS

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408

8am to 9.30pm

FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-creations.org NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS

2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459

8am to 8pm

MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS

1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-quilts.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115

nhaxinh.com

REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190

remixdeco.com

THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788

thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

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BODY

AND

TEMPLE

WORKOUT RULES

BY PHIL KELLY

E

veryone has his or her favourite exercises when it comes to working out. However, when 98% of people do not achieve the results they want from their efforts in the gym, we need to look at what is actually being done. The problem is that most people spend their precious workout time on exercises and programmes that are, generally speaking, a waste of time. Inappropriate workload, intensity, frequency, tempo and duration are the key components that must be understood to optimise results. I’m not talking about individual exercises that may not be appropriate for certain individuals based upon their conditioning level or training goals. I am talking about training principles that are scientifically proven to create the ideal physiological benefits to maximise health and fat loss. The common method people undertake when attempting to achieve fat loss and health is to think that the more calories they burn the better. Hence, they run for as long as they can as hard as they can. However, frequent medium-to-difficult sustained efforts over a medium-to-long duration (aka “chronic cardio”) leads to over-stress, fatigue, burnout, injury, accelerated aging and an increased disease risk. Whereas the correct resistance training improves androgen (rejuvenation and repair) levels and if done correctly can improve “usable fitness.” Correct cardio and resistance training have their place in a well-rounded health and fat loss routine. The aim of any health and fat loss programme should be to maximise your fat burning hormone profile. It should also not over expose your body to prolonged stress or cause muscle loss. Therefore the most effective programme will focus on energy system training, fat-burning hormone production and metabolic efficiency. It should also be periodically reviewed to consider progress and match your lifestyle requirements. Below are some recommendations to consider when creating an optimal health and fat loss workout:

Cardio Move: Your body should use fat as a fuel at low intensity work. First look to increase your steps per day… walking

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Resistance training exercises like squats are ideal for burning fat

is extremely good for us and should be done every day. If you are going to run (for more than 30 minutes) do so at an easy pace. This will not overstress your system and teach your body to utilize fat as a fuel. Intervals: Burn more belly fat with sprint intervals. A large number of convincing studies show that highintensity interval training is the best for losing belly fat.

Resistance Training Resistance exercise makes the muscles become more sensitive to insulin — equates to less fat-storing hormone release. In addition, strength training resets the part of the brain that is involved in releasing hormones, so that cortisol balance (stress) improves. It also elevates the most beneficial fat-burning hormones — testosterone, human growth hormone (HGH), adrenaline and lactic acid. The key elements of your resistance workouts should include the following: a) Train with a high volume: perform a high number of reps and work for

the “pump”. Body weight exercises are perfect for this b) Use whole body multi-joint exercises: Single-leg squats, lunge jumps, step-ups, chin-ups, push-ups, inverted rows, wall shoulder press/stands, full sit-ups — again body weight stuff is perfect c) Use very short rest periods: this will require more maximal effort and produce more HGH and lactic acid — the belly fatburning hormones d) Once per week lift heavy: this type of training boosts HGH and testosterone and maximizes insulin sensitivity Although any exercise you do has some benefit (and of course doing something is better than nothing), these principles will provide you the best possible workout schedule. Train smarter, fight the aging process and feel better by choosing the most effective and efficient exercises for your workouts. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763, at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon. com)


HCMC Essentials

CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

firstBIKE.com.vn

FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development. JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM

384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3

jett-cycles.com

The showroom home of Jett Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114

xedapcaocap.com

Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs.

ELITE DENTAL GROUP. 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 3737

info@elitedental.com.vn elitedental.com.vn

Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics. Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available. MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405

thebikeshopvn.com

The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories. Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals. Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.

M M M DENTAL CLINICS

199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399 STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6282 8822

starlightdental.net

Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800

accadent.com

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 Thao Dien Clinic, 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, Q.2, Tel: (08) 35 191 777

westcoastinternational.com

An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 167


HCMC Essentials

MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS

Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100

maplehealthcare.net

Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.

M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431

cthomasgallery.com

Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. Now has a second newer gallery at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1

dogmacollection.com

The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

ists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630

Annam-gourmet.com

Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. CLASSIC FINE FOODS No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105

classicfinefoods.com

Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

galeriequynh.com

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441

baotangmythuattphcm.vn

Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions.

san-art.org

San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young art-

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GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.

HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671

avedaherbal@gmail.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926

catmocspa.com

Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625

MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565

meatworksasia.com

Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.

PHUONG HA GROCERS

SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059

VEGGY’S

GROCERIES & IMPORTER

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells

Conceptcoiffure.vn

SPORTS CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Adam Zakharoff

Email: adamzakharoff@ gmail.com ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038

SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090

samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010

suhard.amit@yahoo.com

manish@ambrij.com

Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827

glowsaigon.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7

SPORTS — GENERAL

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368

Saigonraiders.com

deepteshgill@gmail.com

Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

famenails.com

SAIGON RAIDERS

npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598

FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

astere@hotmail.fr

saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899

James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

Saigon-ultimate.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794

xrockclimbing.com


HAIR BAR CONTEMPORARY SALON

68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108

hairbar.vn

A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188

Indochine-spa.com.vn

Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment. JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737

Jasminespa.vn

Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments. MERCI 17/6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8799

merci-space.com

A unique nail spa and bistro where you can pamper your nails, enjoy a massage, meet your friends, enjoy a meal and sip a cocktail. Provides only waterless nails treatments to avoid bacteria and dry skin as well as Zoya and Kure Bazaar non-toxic varnishes. QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails. Cheap prices, too. SOI SPA 6th & Rooftop, 44 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8678

soispa.vn

A lovely little place with nail services, shampoo head massages, and other simple treatments for a quick getaway experience. Also features a rooftop terrace and a great little drinks and wine selection. Open daily from 10am to 9pm.

SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575

spatropic.com

Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930

www.acc.vn

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery. AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759

americaneyecentervn.com

American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available. CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366

cmi-vietnam.com

This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

34 Le Duan Street, Q1; 95 Thao Dien Q2, Tel: (08) 3822 7848

vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice (FMP) is the largest and one of the oldest foreign, privately-owned, international health care providers in Vietnam. As the only health

care provider that can offer a countrywide network of integrated clinics for foreign and local populations, FMP’s main specialties include family medicine, pediatrics and emergency medicine as well as health checks and work permit health-tests. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500

fvhospital.com

International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care. FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167

fvhospital.com

State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations. HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068

hanhphuchospital.com

Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

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HCMC Essentials

IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362

insuranceinasia.com SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 107B Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 01676 71 75 79

sianclinic.com

The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990

stamfordskin.com

Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE

187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545

victoriavn.com

Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998

libertyinsurance.com.vn

International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more. NOAH JAMES INSURANCE AGENCY Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858

noahjamesinsurance.com Skype: jp.global

A full service broker offering expatriates and local Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for life, health, travel, as well as speciality cover for student travel, medevac, international marine, extreme athletics and adventure. For details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance.com TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367

ten-pac.com

A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

INSURANCE PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM 4th/12th Floor Continental Tower, 81-83-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908

pacificcross.com.vn

Pacific Cross Vietnam recently changed names, from Blue Cross Vietnam, to align with their regional sister companies. Together they form the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience providing health and travel insurance to people who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. Contact them now for a free quote.

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ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36

theabcis.com

Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools worldwide. ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA, the Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040

aisvietnam.com

The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life. BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335

bisvietnam.com

Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam. CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456

cis.edu.vn

The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490

dancentervn.com

Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780

helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700

Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691

Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679

paa.com.vn

Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722

saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360

Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846

vin-space.com


newly built campus.

Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901

ssis.edu.vn

Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

ishcmc.com

HCMC’s most established international school offers three International Baccalaureate programmes for students from two to 18 years old. ISHCMC will be launching a new secondary campus in 2017, featuring Vietnam’s first Innovation Center, a 350-seat professional theatre, NBA-sized basketball courts and a 25m competitive swimming pool.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY — AMERICAN ACADEMY 16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

aavn.edu.vn

ISHCMC — American Academy is a U.S. curriculum secondary school for students aged 11 to 18 years old. Early university credits, a 1:1 University Counseling Program, and an extensive EAL program set our graduates on the road to 100% acceptance rate at overseas universities and a US$1 million scholarship fund.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944

kidsclubsaigon.com

Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes. EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257

eishcmc.com

The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99

issp.edu.vn

Vietnam’s only international school offering a U.S. curriculum for children aged 18 months to 11 years old. With 100% English language immersion, a library containing over 13,500 English books and more than 60% of students achieving above grade level English, ISSP students are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or ISHCMC - American Academy.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639

montessori.edu.vn

Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122

renaissance.edu.vn

Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch. SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081

saigonkidskindergarten.com

SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827

saigonstarschool.edu.vn

Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236

smartkidsinfo.com

This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223

tas.edu.vn

Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694

easysaigon.com

The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

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HCMC Essentials

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700

namhouse.com.vn

Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales. RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855

residentvietnam.com

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282

snap.com.vn

Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. THE NEST 216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 580800

thenesthousing.com

Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS

185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446

Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.

M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430

adecco.com.vn

Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office. HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888

hr2b.com

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.

vieclambank.com

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373

vietnamworks.com

The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.

RELOCATION AGENTS

chiscafe.com

Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions. SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273

nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com

Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS

77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690

saigonscootercentre.com

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provides tailored relocation services. ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799

asiantigers-mobility.com

Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field. LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322

logicalmoves.net

Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065

santaferelo.com

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo. com for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888

intercontinental.com/saigonres

Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111

norfolkmansion.com.vn

Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

Riverside-apartments.com

Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle. SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071

agsfourwinds.com

A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220

alliedpickfords.com

With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also

the-ascott.com

Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

EXILE INK 608

57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956

exileinkvietnam.com

sherwoodresidence.com

Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service. SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922

somerset.com DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678

TATTOO ARTISTS

Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

SPORTS & FITNESS CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620

SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311

saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090

tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339

xamnghethuat.vn TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838

tattoosaigon.com

laholista.com

Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383

xamphunnghethuat. com


THE LANDMARK CLUB GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com BODY AND MIND

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425

cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521

lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567

galaxycine.vn

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326

cyril-and-you.com

This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672

nutrifort.com

A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals. SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonhash.com

Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run.

In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM

Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612

facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn

A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).

VETERINARY CLINICS

SPORTS GARMENTS

City with international veterinary surgeons. Upholding international standards, the team works tirelessly to help clients with the support of a dedicated surgical suite, digital X-Ray and comprehensive diagnostic facilities.

SCORE-TECH

VIETNAMESE CLASSES

1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771

vietnameselanguagegarden. com

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168

vlstudies.com

Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

ANIMAL DOCTORS INTERNATIONAL 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2. (08) 6260 3980

animaldoctors.vn

Offers the very highest levels of compassionate, competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh

SHERATON FITNESS HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE HEALTH CLUB & GYM

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451

idecaf.gov.vn

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership.

CGV CINEMAS

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388

STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

cgv.vn

wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 173


BAR STOOL MARTINI BAR

PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

I

f you haven’t dared step foot in the Park Hyatt for fear of being immediately relieved of all your hard-earned cash, fear not. The hotel’s Martini Bar, officially called 2 Lam Son, has a 51 percent off happy hour on all drinks between 5pm and 8pm, every day of the week. The special extends to some of the most finely crafted cocktails in the city, so you don’t have to be a high-roller to enjoy something as well put together as what they’re calling the ‘Behind the Success’. This drink is not on the menu, so it’s a ‘by special request only’, but is an aromatic adventure featuring thyme, lemon and cinnamon, surrounding a black tea infused with bergamot essence, juniper berries and mixed with Botanist Gin. It’s made by the team behind the bar of Lung, Long and Nguyen, and we highly

174 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com

recommend asking for one on your next big date or to impress that hard-to-please client.

Stalwart Far from being exclusive or stuffy, the Martini Bar has been a stalwart of the inner city after-work drinks crowd for years. It’s a mix of local and international guests, who come to enjoy the street-level peoplewatching along Hai Ba Trung, and to either relax in a private table setting or be more social around the bar. From Wednesday to Saturday there are DJs from 9.30pm until late and on Thursdays the first drink is free for ladies after 9pm. If you’re into the classics the 2 Lam Son Mojito (VND320,000) is a winner, as is the Lonely Star (VND300,000) which is a refreshing but not too sweet gin-based drink featuring a homemade mix of blueberry and ginger.

Put a Smile on Your Face The décor is sophisticated and comfortable, featuring lots of timber with splashes of color and intimate lighting for when the mood takes you. The drinks list is extensive, as are the number of international wines on offer. The staff are there to put a smile on your face, and the ones we met were more than happy to give some local advice on how to make the most of your time in town. Also, it’s worth noting that if you’re reading this on your birthday, you should get down there immediately, because on your special day you can drink for free all night! Just bring some ID and celebrate in style. Why not? It only happens once a year! — Jon Aspin 2 Lam Son (Martini Bar) is at 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, HCMC. The main entrance is on Hai Ba Trung. Starting from May, Japanese DJ Take will spin tunes every Friday from 9.30pm


wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 175


HCMC On The Town

BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). BROMA, NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR

7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345

Buddhabarsaigon.com APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB

2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124

apocalypsesaigon.com

An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back. BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR

90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588

biacraft.com

As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB

95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details. BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD

40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452

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Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys. CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR

45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4202 A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene, Champion is located in the Backpackers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. Also has a pool table, darts, tasty Western and Vietnamese food, great cocktails and ice cold beer. Western managed, wonderful local staff. #BeAChampion.

out their daily food specials.

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE

EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR

Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Night live music and DJs. GAME ON SPORTS BAR

115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898

gameonsaigon.com

A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more. HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605

hoavien.vn

The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer.

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR

24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports.

55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack? A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check

lastcallsaigon.com

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE

LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.

Tel: 0906 912730

www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030

www.dominos.vn LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR

207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine. MALT 46-48 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Malt is a non-smoking bar in downtown Saigon offering shuffleboard, darts, craft beers on tap, signature cocktails and delicious tapas and pub grub. Its unpretentious vibe and casual atmosphere will have you feeling at home.

EAT.VN www.eat.vn

HUNGRYPANDA. VN

www.hungrypanda.vn KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999

www.kfcvietnam. com.vn

LOTTERIA

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn

PIZZA HUT (PHD) MAY RESTAURANT & BAR

Tel: (08) 3838 8388

www.pizzahut.vn

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180

lahabana-saigon.com

Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

D2 SPORTS BAR

59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122

GAMES & CRAFT BEER BAR

CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

LAST CALL

LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

mayrestaurant.com.vn

An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space. NUMBER FIVE EXPAT BAR

44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music. OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen

SCOOZI

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com


An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon. O’BRIEN’S

Lai, Q1

saigonsoul.com

The ultimate in poolside entertainment, Saigon Soul is defined by its great party atmosphere. Booming house music, cold drinks and beautiful people. What better way to spend a Saturday? Runs every Saturday from late November until mid May.

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198

irish-barsaigon.com

This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience. PEACHES CURRY PUB

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt. PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS

46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796

phattysbar.com

From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON OUTCAST

SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520

facebook.com/PitchersPMH

Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.

with BBQs available for parties and events.

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL

5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738

Stormp.vn

Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. A good place to watch the live sports.

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198

Saigonoutcast.com

Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets. SAIGON RANGER ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559

facebook.com/saigonranger

Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance. SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.

THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR

VINYL BAR

31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

facebook.com/thecubesaigon

THE OBSERVATORY BAR, ART & DJ SPACE

5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit. THE ORIENT SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623

vinylbarsaigon.com

WINE BAR 38 CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass. WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827

wineembassy.com.vn

A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu

facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon

An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR

61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1 PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL

STORM P

shrinebarsaigon.com

Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere. SEVENTEEN SALOON

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999

facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM

Designed as a Laneway-style restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

THEMED MUSIC BAR

RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR

S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks. SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY POOL & DAY CLUB

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007

seventeensaloon.com.vn

Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix,

wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 177


KNOW YOUR CITY

C

ities, like organisms, are constantly in the process of change; growing, dying, regenerating and degenerating. While city planners may like to think that they are the best people to make the decisions as to how the city grows, cities often grow despite, rather than because of, their best efforts. Reyner Banham, an English professor of architecture, once said that planning is a discipline only understood in academic and professional circles; that it is essentially a liberal approach to urban problems, and it tends to fail when confronted with a libertarian culture. We have that libertarian culture here in Ho Chi Minh City. The fact that planners have been unable to fully dictate form and use in Ho Chi Minh City has led to a vibrant and interesting city centre. The sheer exuberance of Vietnamese culture is constantly on display in the city, especially in the oldest part of District 1. When you look at the city from this context of rebirth and renewal you can see emerging trends.

Renaissance The Meatpacking District in New York City gives a good example. The name is self-explanatory — an industrial area in the middle of New York with an elevated railway line (the high line) that once ran through it. Run down for years, the area started being reborn in the last years of the 20th century after restaurants and high-end boutiques began opening in the vacant buildings.

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NEW USES FOR OLD SPACES

BY ED HAYSOM

Once undervalued, the district is now a highly valued and expensive area attracting corporate headquarters in the old buildings. The high line is now an urban park. Other inner city areas have gone through similar revivals. Perhaps best known is Shoreditch in London. The transformation from urban wasteland to fashionable mecca is so vast that it’s now spread to neighbouring areas like Whitechapel, Dalston and Hackney. In all these scenarios, restaurateurs and café owners seek out interesting but cheap spaces in old buildings because they can imbue them with character. Restaurants are often the harbinger of urban renewal by bringing people to an area, and those people then look for other opportunities. Restaurants often lead the way by showing us how to develop, enhance and preserve existing building stocks as it is cheaper to recycle rather than start again.

others; Racha Room and Stoker in Mac Thi Buoi; AsiaHouse in Nguyen Hue, Khanh Casa and Moo Beefsteak in Dong Khoi; Saigon Artisan and Nho Saigon Xua in Le Loi; The Warehouse in Le Thanh Ton; the coffee shops in the 26 Ly Tu Trong apartment building, places like Snuffbox on Ton That Dam and the apartment blocks on Nguyen Hue. There are more emerging that demonstrate a way forward for the use of these older and quite exquisite buildings. Ho Chi Minh City sees itself as an emerging new world city, but in the city’s scramble to compete regionally it risks damaging the very elements that make it so attractive. It is an Asian city with a defined and vibrant CBD and, with its own particularly exotic nature, it has an appeal that eludes Singapore. While it lacks the grandeur of Hong Kong’s harbour setting, it is far more affordable and interesting at ground level. Yet the very fabric of that character is under threat in District 1 with demolition orders looming on many of the great French-era buildings. Ho Chi Minh City is unique thanks to its tropical French heritage — there is no escaping its colonial past. It is therefore fitting that the city famous for its cuisine and coffee culture is being shown how to protect and enhance its character by businesses supporting that culture. Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City. You can contact him on ehaysom@ modehaysomarchitects.com

The unique ownership structure of many buildings in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 1 has inhibited their refurbishment; a house that in the past was given over to communal habitation is often owned by four or five different people. However, those that have attracted restaurants have had their value enhanced, with some great examples over the last few years of new uses for old spaces setting a benchmark. Nga Hang Ngon, Temple Club and L’Usine to name three.

Exquisite They have been joined recently by some


HCMC On The Town

to complement the old and new world wines. XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468

xusaigon.com

This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker. AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm. BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003

sam.nguyen197@gmail.com

A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657

cafethoaivien.com

Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL

157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1

coffeebean.com.vn

the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair.

art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

I.D. CAFÉ

facebook.com/m2ccafe

CONTEMPORARY CAFE

34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910

Idcafe.net

Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

INTERNATIONAL

79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115

Decibel.vn

Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830

guanabanasmoothies.com

An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme. HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222

Hideawaycafe-saigon.com

Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard,

At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town. MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400

facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee

KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS DECIBEL

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495

CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING 40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6685 4160

klasik.coffee

Nitro cold brew coffee, single origin coffee and healthy food. Klasik Coffee Roasters is a small coffee shop with a passion for seeking high quality coffee beans from around the world to roast in Saigon. Holding the belief that each cup tells its own story, drinking coffee at Klasik is all about pleasure and experience: the aroma, the taste, the warmth and the senses inspired by each and every cup. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH

First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703

lusinespace.com

French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and

Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation. PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM

8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330

themorningcafe.com.vn

Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the win-

dow and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent. THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272

facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe

Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe. THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE

158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000. THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205

facebook.com/thingscafe

Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ

Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution.

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TOP EATS

LAVASTONE BBQ & COCKTAIL HOUSE

S

ituated in a prime location in District 1, Lavastone BBQ & Cocktail House blends into the bustle of the area with its fulllength glass front framed by black-painted steel. The space inside has an American industrial ambience combined with classic European-style twists, making the place both attractive yet unusual. The Japanese elements — Japanese rice wine kept cool in a container at the front door and the upstairs furnished with Japanese-style chairs and tables, adds to the effect.

A House of Beef Seated at the table next to the cashier, I leisurely turned the pages of the eyecatching menu. Although it is a combination of Japanese specialties, barbecue and panAsian cuisine, it is obvious that Lavastone pays most of their attention to beef. All the beef is imported from Japan and America, and is marinated with their in-house sauces or cooked up simply with salt. I ordered a wagyu sirloin (VND569,000) and the boneless beef short ribs (VND179,000). The wagyu arrived sizzling

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PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

away on a coconut coal BBQ pot and as I took my first bite, my spirits soared. The meat was so tender it melted in my mouth — the sweetness of the beef paired with the saltiness from dipping chunks into the plate of Himalaya salt was divine. I wanted to order a second portion. Instead I moved onto the boneless beef short ribs, which arrived with a dipping sauce called tare. A sweetened, thickened, flavoured soy sauce used in Japanese cuisine for grilled beef, depending on taste (and on the chef), there are many different versions. The version Lavastone came up with was mixed with garlic and chopped spring onion to bring out the flavour of the dish. It worked a treat. If you are not a big fan of beef, you can either try barbecued pork breast (VND79,000) or Japanese sashimi (VND357,000, a combo for two). Other interesting options include Cajun shrimps (VND219,000), grilled sanma (VND89,000) or the spicy seafood hotpot (VND289,000).

Drinkable Creativeness Lavastone has a small bar counter at the

back but despite its size, the restaurant boast an extensive drinks menu with a range of choices from classic blends and signature cocktails to simple shots and Japanese wine. The establishment also has a house cocktail list updated every month as well as a drink of the month. Managed by young bartenders, they are given free reign by the restaurant to create new drinks in an attempt to keep the customers happy. Tung, the main bartender, brought me what he called a Vieux Carré as I told him I wanted a drink that was strong but not sweet. The concoction was wicked; the brownish liquid mixed sweetness with an enticing aroma, leaving a slight bitterness at the back of my throat. At the end my meal, he made a dessert drink called Escargot that was served up in a conch. Made from passion fruit, butter syrup, black rum and aromatic Japanese rice wine, it provided the perfect ending to an indulgent meal. — Vu Ha Kim Vy Lavastone BBQ & Cocktail House is at 96B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, HCMC. Visit them on facebook.com/lavastonebbq for their updated menu and promotions


HCMC On The Town

27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix. AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL

27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424

mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. ASHOKA NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177

ashokaindianrestaurant. com

Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

alfrescosgroup.com

The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157

aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ

23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772

auparcsaigon.com

Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and

BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661

babaskitchen.in

This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2. BLACK CAT AMERICAN

13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055

blackcatsaigon.com

Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH

BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261

bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE

40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502

Chiscafe.com

This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service. CIAO BELLA

BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas.

NEW YORK-ITALIAN

11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329

saigonrestaurantgroup.com

New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL

BLANCHY STREET

38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592

boomarang.com.vn

Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for. CORSO

ery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000. ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN

52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327

elbowroom.com.vn

The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains. EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909

elgaucho.com.vn

A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town. EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN

Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients.

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eat-

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786

ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce

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HCMC On The Town

is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service. HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. HOANG YEN

(08) 3822 0033

marriott.com

Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000. KOH THAI

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs. KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot!

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066

hogsbreathcafe.com.vn

Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

L’OLIVIER Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town. JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN

48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882

lacuisine.com.vn

This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

INTERNATIONAL FUSION

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931

Alfrescosgroup.com

Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks. KABIN CANTONESE

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel:

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LE CORTO CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0671

facebook.com/LeCorto

Open for lunch and set dinner, this beautifully designed restaurant and bar seamlessly mixes contemporary and with classic. With a menu cooked up by reputed chef Sakal Phoeung, and with a contemporary twist to traditional French fare, this is a place to enjoy the luxuries of fine cuisine and even finer wine.

a darkwood, aircon interior. Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence. Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour. MARKET 39

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality.

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET

LION CITY SINGAPOREAN

45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371

lioncityrestaurant.com

Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN

29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727

loveat.vn

Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere.

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

PAN-VIETNAMESE

7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town.

LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH

LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN

97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371

luburestaurant.com

Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace. LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests. MAD HOUSE CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT

6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009

facebook.com/madsaigon

Set over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful rustic décor is matched by

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD

19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

may.restaurant19@gmail. com

Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES

18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late. PACHARAN SPANISH / EUROPEAN

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

MEKONG MERCHANT

PENDOLASCO

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD

PAN-ITALIAN

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478

87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282

The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.

Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2.

info@mekongmerchant.com

MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN

1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies. NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE

136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996

namgiao.com

If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent.

pendolasco.vn

PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520

facebook.com/PitchersPMH Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat. PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION

8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838

pizza4ps.com

This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.


POP FRIES CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES

14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938 754851 A street food eatery concept that originates from Los Angeles and New York, and born from a passion for sharing, here it’s all about the loaded fries. The potatoes are twice-cooked and come piled high with a range of inventive toppings. Funky décor and long benches make up the mix. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints. QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE

8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town.

US-STYLE BARBECUE

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500

facebook.com/quanutut

It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going

sanfulou.com

RACHA ROOM

RELISH & SONS

CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 6253 7711

GOURMET BURGER BAR 44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel (08) 6291 8187

theracharoom.com

The Racha Room delivers Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on high quality ingredients. Racha features a large selection of spirits at a seated bar and high table to ensure drinking along with eating remains central to the experience. The current and future of Asian-inspired drinking and dining is right here at the Racha Room.

REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509

therefinerysaigon.com

A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains. RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

QUAN UT UT

Tel: (08) 3823 9513

for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

relishandsons.com

Relish & Sons burgers are lovingly made with a healthy food philosophy in mind and fresh high quality ingredients. The beef patties are 100% Australian grass-fed; the buns are made with a reduced sugar and salt content. Burger relishes such as chutneys are all made inhouse from scratch.

SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN

51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised. SAIGON CAFÉ

Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further. SEOUL HOUSE

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

KOREAN

33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297

seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining. SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE

Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221

shangpalace.com.vn

Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

STOKER CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 3826 8691

stokerwoodfiredgrill.com

One of the world’s oldest culinary techniques — grilling over a wood fire. Stoker kitchen uses different woods to infuse foods with different smoky flavours. These techniques revolutionize live fire cooking by providing precise heat control through the use of a grilling surface that can be adjusted to different cooking heights above the hot coals.

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET

Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch. SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN

Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1

SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN

9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798

skewers-restaurant.com

Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689

soraesushi.com

Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.

wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 183


A WORLD

OF

PERIOD PANTIES

O

ne in three women and girls on this planet do not have access to a toilet when they menstruate, and 70 percent of women feel stigmatised or ashamed about their period. Three cheers then for international Menstrual Hygiene Day (MHD) on May 28. Three years ago a global coalition came together to help bust some myths around what — on any given day — more than 800 million girls and women between the ages of 15 and 49 are doing. However, despite these numbers, talking about it remains taboo. This silence has created some pretty fantastic at best, misogynistic at worse, ideas around menstruation dating back centuries. Pliny the Elder wrote in his Natural History (circa A.D. 77) about what happens when a woman has her period: “Her very look, even, will dim the brightness of mirrors, blunt the edge of steel, and take away the polish from ivory. A swarm of bees, if looked upon by her, will die immediately.” Don’t laugh, because nearly two millennia later the British Medical Journal harrumphed in 1878 that a menstruating woman would cause bacon to putrefy. Today girls and women are still in some cultures considered unclean during their period and, depending on cultural beliefs, are segregated, banned from religious activities and not allowed to come

184 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com

near food for fear of contamination. But one of the biggest issues is the lack of sanitation. Those girls and women without a toilet are forced to find somewhere, typically after dark, which puts them at risk to harassment or attack. I have written before about the ramifications of pubescent girls dropping out of school for want of some privacy and clean water at school.

Hygiene A pair of sisters wants to change some of this. Three cheers for period panties! Twin sisters Miki and Radha Agrawal have invented ‘period-proof’ panties. Thinx underwear is washable and reusable, utilizes microfibre technology and comes in different styles to match your monthly flow. The sisters say their panties are a response to the heaving U.S. landfills where 12 billion pads and 7 million tampons are dumped every year. Operating as a social enterprise means proceeds from Thinx sales go to training women in developing nations to manufacture and sell affordable, reusable pads locally. Access to hygiene products isn’t too

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

much of an issue now in Vietnam and Article 115 in the Vietnamese Labour Code recognises a woman’s right to a daily 30-minute break without salary penalty when she is menstruating. Yet the menstrual myths persist. A health survey here found that female factory workers believe your hair will fall out and you’ll get dark circles under your eyes if you take a bath during your period. (Some of my sophisticated urban girlfriends believe the same thing.) Silence feeds superstition and ignorance. Girls continue to think they cannot become pregnant while menstruating, don’t seek help for endometriosis, won’t go swimming or play sports, or that tampons can ‘disappear’ in your vagina. Taxes on necessities like tampons and pads, enforcing taboos, embarrassment if a tampon falls out of your purse (but toilet paper and tissue in your bathroom is A-OK), and using euphemisms are part and parcel of the silence that leads to superstition, ignorance and sexism. And all that on a completely normal and healthy body function. Yawns and sneezes are also regulatory functions that don’t provoke berserk reactions. Time to get off that antiquated shame wagon. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an award-winning nonprofit social enterprise providing vocational training for at-risk youth


HCMC On The Town

TAMAGO

TIN NGHIA

PAN-JAPANESE

VEGAN

39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634

tamagoresto@gmail.com

Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244

Templeclub.com.vn

Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

M M M STREET FOOD BA GHIEN COM TAM

84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan

MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632

thedecksaigon.com

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list. THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE

144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533

facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe

Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout.

BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI

107 Truong Dinh, Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10 BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 PHO DAU PHO BO

288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3

BANH TAM

271 Nguyen Trai, Q1 BO KHO

NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE

BA NAM

PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

260C Pasteur, Q3

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917

PHO LE

BUN CHA HA NOI

PHO PHU GIA

Namsonsteak.com

PHO BO

413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH CUON HAI NAM BANH CUON

BUN CHA

PHO BO

26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3

CHI THONG

PHO PHU VUONG

11A Cao Thang, Q3 BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU

BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI

PHO BO

195 Co Giang, Q1

339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh

COM GA XOI MO SU SU

SUSHI KO

BANH KHOT

102 Cao Thang, Q3 THE DECK

170 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH MI HONG HOA

VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN

STREET SUSHI

55 Tu Xuong, Q3

122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4

COM TAM 40A

THE LUNCH LADY

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1

COM TAM

BANH MI HUYNH HOA

23 Hoang Sa, Q1

MI QUANG MY SON

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI

26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1

MI QUANG

BANH MI SAU MINH

DAILY CHANGING DISHES

40A Quoc Huong, Q2

38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1

HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE

67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular. ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999

facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM

Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too. ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897

vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom

This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 185


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The Final Say

188 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com


THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Food Poisoning We all like to eat well, but what happens when you get on the wrong side of the food chain? Words by Siân Kavanagh

I

t all starts with a sudden gurgle, somewhere deep within your stomach, as a film of sweat develops over your body. You don’t think too much at first, until you immediately know that the only place you’re going to be for the next couple of hours is the bathroom. Get your phone charged and limber up, you’re going on one of the most common adventures in Vietnam; food poisoning. It’s not fun, and it’s certainly not glamorous, but it’s a very real part of living in Vietnam. Food poisoning occurs when you have ingested certain pathogens that cause disruption to your digestive system, also known as Traveller’s Diarrhoea (even when you are a native or local to the country where you contract it).

The Source There are three types of micro-organisms that can cause common digestive trouble; viruses, bacteria and parasites. Each microorganism affects the body and must be treated accordingly, and it is more often than not impossible to self-diagnose which of these is affecting you. Depending on the source of the digestive trouble, the pathogen that has caused these symptoms could have been incubating for any period of time from a few hours to over a week, and infections with pathogens that take longer to manifest symptoms make up 10% of all food poisoning cases, according to the Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). Here are the top tips for understanding and recovering from food poisoning: 1) KNOW YOUR SYMPTOMS. “The two most common symptoms of food poisoning are diarrhoea and abdominal pain, though these two symptoms are not exclusively indicators of food poisoning,” says Dr. Masato Okuda, the gastroenterology specialist at Family Medical Practice. Other frequent symptoms of food poisoning include fever, nausea and vomiting. There are some extremely infrequent symptoms of food poisoning, including body paralysis caused by GuillainBarre syndrome or bacterial reactive arthritis or severe joint pain, also identified as Reiter’s syndrome. 2) FIND YOUR BALANCE OF CAUTION AND ADVENTURE. Unfortunately, there are very

few foolproof ways to ensure you never fall victim to digestive troubles, but there are measures you can take. Dr. Masato recommends being aware of where you consume food and drink, and how it is prepared and handled, as most cases of food poisoning are caused by poor hygiene practices. 3) PREVENTATIVE SELF MEDICATION. Depending on the type of antibiotic used, it is possible to successfully prevent some forms of Traveller’s Diarrhoea but it is not recommended to do so without consulting a medical professional first. Even so, bacteria evolve and develop different characteristics over time. This means that bacteria can become resistant to certain antibiotics, especially when they are selfprescribed, overused, or used to treat another issue such as a viral infection or parasite. It is also possible to prophylactically take PeptoBismol, as the key ingredient is bismuth subsalicylate (BSS). When taken daily in either 2oz of liquid or two chewable tablets, four times a day, BSS has been known to reduce the occurrence of Traveller’s Diarrhoea by 50% from studies based in Mexico. 4) VIRAL VS. BACTERIA VS. PARASITES. By understanding exactly what microorganism has made its way into your body you can also help determine the best routes for medical follow up. — Viral infections will typically result in relatively mild symptoms compared to other types of infection, and the body will likely heal by itself. Viral infections are typically less common, only causing about 5% to 8% of reported cases. — Bacterial infections can cause more severe symptoms than viral infections, especially abdominal pain and diarrhoea, but the symptoms should last only last about one week. Bacteria are one of the most common causes of Traveller’s Diarrhoea and food poisoning, accounting for 80 to 90% of cases reported. — Parasitic symptoms can vary from mild to severe, but the key difference for seeing if you have a parasite is the amount of time you are ill, as parasites

can cause pain and diarrhoea for anywhere from two weeks to months at a time. 5) BEST ROUTES FOR RECOVERY. Recovery from food poisoning or Traveller’s Diarrhoea again depends on the type of pathogen that has caused you to become ill. “Hydration is the key to a successful recovery from diarrhoea, and if you are passing enough urine there is no need to worry about hydration,” recommends Dr. Masato. Sufficient hydration is doubly important for young children. If you have been in severe pain or experiencing symptoms for over a week, then it is time to consult a medical professional about how to further aid recovery back to full health. Remember the following: — Viral infections can only be treated by allowing the body to heal itself, and alleviate the symptoms themselves such as using fever reducers or painkillers. Imodium can be used; however diarrhoea is a defense mechanism of your intestines to help them repair, and to overuse Imodium can be just as disruptive as letting your body use its own mechanism. — Bacterial infections can be treated with antibiotics though there is no guarantee that the bacteria that has infected your digestive system isn’t resistant to the drugs. It is also possible to treat the symptoms for a bacterial infection as well. — Parasitic infections are a lot less common than bacterial infections and demand treatment on a case-by-case basis. Statistically speaking at least 70% of us will suffer from some form of Traveller’s Diarrhoea (yes even if we live here) or food poisoning, and it’s not the end of the world. Though there are reported cases of parasites, which are somewhat frequent in Southeast Asia, and other severe diseases, the best course of action is to talk to a medical professional. If it’s your run-of-the-mill diarrhoea and abdominal cramps, make sure to stay hydrated, have plenty of rest, and know that this too shall pass.

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The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Vegetarian Hanoi With over 50 restaurants in the capital now catering for vegetarians and vegans, binning the meat in Hanoi is more than a passing fad. Words by Eduardo Culbeaux

A

s a vegetarian all my life, I was interested in learning about Hanoi’s burgeoning vegetarian scene. I met with Phong Van Doan at my favourite vegan restaurant on Au Co. We sat at the large community table while I sipped on my bowl of bun rieu chay and crispy nem chay cooked in coconut oil. Doan wasn’t always a vegan. Her mom used to call her “Mongolian” because she mostly ate meat and drank milk. Doan recalls the times when she would make her mom cook her favourite meat dish, thit kho tan, a type of fried crispy pork, every night. She had dietary problems since kindergarten, but it culminated this summer when her “Mongolian” diet made her bed-ridden for weeks. Like any teen she found refuge in YouTube videos where she stumbled upon Freelee the Banana Girl, a YouTuber who promotes a vegan lifestyle. After a month of being vegan she started noticing improvements in her health. After two months, she was able to go off her medication. The dramatic change in her health, and an accidental meeting with a vegan Vietnamese teacher altered the course of her life. She now is a vegan activist and has started a Facebook group called Vegan Hanoi that already includes over 300 members. It’s not all perfect — she understands that the Vietnamese community is still struggling to understand a vegan diet.

Life Without Meat Quyen Vo, an employee at Bo De Quan (164 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi), a vegan restaurant in Tay Ho, said: “When we first opened, two years ago, we were really struggling. Some Vietnamese customers would come to our shop and say can I have a bowl of beef pho? We would say sorry; we are vegan, and they would say sorry, I cannot eat it because I cannot live without meat. I eat meat every day, if I don’t eat meat I die.” On any given weekday there is now a

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steady stream of westerners who pop into Bo De Quan for a quick bite to eat or food to go, and many other Hanoi vegetarian business owners have recently seen growth in the demand for vegetarian food. Dan Ni, a waiter at Daluva, a more upscale restaurant that offers a meatless Monday special agrees: “I think the number of vegetarians among the Vietnamese population will grow more slowly. A lot of people think that meat is crucial and that you can’t substitute meat for other things.”

It Takes All Types Matador Network, the world’s largest independent travel publisher, put out a report last year stating seven reasons why all vegetarians should travel to Vietnam. The number one reason is you probably won’t get diarrhoea. It also claimed the word for vegetarian in Vietnamese, chay, is pretty easy to pronounce even without intonation. In Hanoi I found various types of vegetarians. First, the Buddhists. Some people may assume that because of Buddhism there would be a lot of vegetarians in Vietnam. The reality is only about 12% of Vietnam’s population describe themselves as Buddhist. There are even some reports that claim Buddha himself may not have been vegetarian. These Buddhists still eat a little meat from time to time, but try to eat mostly vegetarian. There are Hindus who follow a more strict vegetarian diet, abstaining even from foods like onions and garlic. These vegetarians believe that you shouldn’t eat anything that you can’t offer to Krishna. They also believe that consuming certain vegetables and spices will stimulate the central nervous system, and may increase passion and ignorance. The most common type of vegetarians I met in Hanoi are not absolute vegetarians. “I stopped eating meat five days of the week after watching the documentary Cowspiracy — the effects that eating meat has on the environment is devastating,” said Jolie Lamb.

The environment and chemicals found in meat represents a concern shared by a lot of people. “The animals are fed hormones so they can grow big and fat, then people eat these animals and so are eating all those hormones,” said another person I spoke to, Charline Rieffel.

A Growing Fad There are currently over 50 establishments listed as vegan or vegetarian on happycow. net in Hanoi alone. There is also a very active Facebook group with over 700 members called Vegan Organic Hanoi. Once you are connected, finding amazing vegetarian food all across the city is no problem. There are fresh vegetables and tofu everywhere, as well as a growing number of shops selling fake meat. Although, most people I talked to are still weary of fake meat and see it as just another processed food to avoid. It is not just vegan/vegetarian restaurants that are cashing in on vegetarianism. Veggie burgers, burritos and falafels are among other things that are peppering the menus of most restaurants in Hanoi. If you are feeling really hard-core about your devotion to a vegetarian planet, people in Vegan Organic Hanoi will even help you facilitate creating vegetarian food for your pets. Veganism has found adherents in big business, as well. Asia’s richest businessman Li Ka-Shing recently invested US$23 million in Hampton Creek Foods, which makes vegan mayonnaise. Globally, the vegetarian food market is rapidly increasing, as people become more aware of the positive effects reducing meat consumption has on the body and on the environment. And in Vietnam, the vegetarian population is definitely growing, even if it may be led by westerners for now. For a full list of vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Hanoi, click on happycow.net/ asia/vietnam/hanoi


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The Final Say

Ten10

Despite being surrounded by Vietnamese eateries, the multiple award-winning Song Que is probably the most successful Vietnamese restaurant in London. Yet it remains very down to earth. Its owners, Luoc and Anh, tell their story. Photo by Nick Ross When did you arrive in the UK? Luoc: A long time ago. I arrived in 1979. I come from Saigon. Anh: I came in 1989. We didn’t know each other before I arrived. We met in the UK. I come from Ben Tre.

What did you do before you opened Song Que? Luoc: When I first arrived, my English wasn’t good. So I ended up washing dishes. But after a few years I knew I had to move forward, so I started learning English. Once I had a better grasp of it, I got work as a waiter for a Singaporean restaurant.

Why did you decide to go into the restaurant business? Anh: We wanted to do something for our family and also to do something for the Vietnamese community. We were focused on having Vietnamese customers, not on foreigners. But once we opened, all sorts of people came to try out the food.

How did you get yourself such a good name? Three months after we opened — without us knowing — a magazine wrote an article on us. Prior to the piece, the restaurant was really quiet, but suddenly, one Tuesday, loads of people phoned up to reserve a table. We

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didn’t understand — at the time we only had one person working the floor and three people in the kitchen. That day it was raining, and suddenly there was a long queue outside the restaurant. This was 2003. We realised that our service wasn’t up to scratch and that the food was coming out of the kitchen really slowly, but the customers were really understanding. After they ate that night, they started chatting to us, and it was only then that we realised we’d been written about in a magazine — it was Time Out London.

What happened after the article? Anh: Loads of people came to the restaurant to interview us, and then nine months later we won the Time Out award for Best Cheap Eats in London, 2003. We were so surprised and never imagined in our wildest dreams that we’d get such an award.

When you make your food, do you adapt it to the taste of people in the UK? We cook it as if we are cooking for Vietnamese people. From when we first opened, we have never changed this. Our food is exactly what you’d get in Vietnam.

How do you manage to attract all the customers? Anh: We’re just lucky. But we’re like a tree.

If you look after a tree, water it, treat it well, you’ll get fruit. That’s how we see it.

In the past, people from the UK didn’t know that much about Vietnamese food. How did you deal with this? Anh: It was so difficult. So for example, bun. People didn’t understand. They said, ‘But the noodles are cold. How can we eat them?’ They would complain. Someone else said that eating our bi cuon, rice paper rolls, were like eating rubber bands. But now, we sell bi cuon a lot.

You also sell a few dishes that are not Vietnamese, like for example, crispy duck. Why is this? Anh: When we opened, not so many people were able to eat Vietnamese cuisine. So, we added in a few Chinese dishes like the crispy duck. But now, because it’s so popular, we can’t take it off the menu

How do you manage to maintain such consistency? Anh: I marinate all the meat and fish myself. I also make all the sauces. I don’t let anyone else do it, even the head chef. I’m starting to show my oldest daughter, but otherwise, I do all of this myself.



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