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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 11 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS và NICK ROSS
Contents Nov. 2015
70
64 THE TALK
INSIDER
010 / Innovative Vietnam
56 / Forever Wild
112 112 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
This month’s review: Linh & Ben
A trip to South Africa to learn about rhino conservation
114 / Street Snacker Hanoi
011 / The Big Five
60 / Nature’s Design
116 / Mystery Diner HCMC
BRIEFINGS
64 / Factory Love
118 / Street Snacker HCMC
This country is getting more creative Events to look out for this month
12 / The Battle of the Chefs
Reality TV, Michelin-star chefs and a gala dinner
14 / Quest Festival
How to survive Hanoi’s hippy fest
24 / Nebula Vietnam
Using skateboarding to empower disadvantaged youth
28 / A Fuzzy History
Putting the craft back into beer
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A unique type of wood is now available in Vietnam Rich or poor, old or young, love is all around us
On the menu: bun be be
Bamboo Chic in the recently opened, Le Meridien
Another out-of-town dish comes to Saigon: pho chua
70 / Til Death Do Us Part
Vietnam’s wedding industry is booming
98 / The Circus
… but it’s not the big top we’re talking about here
EAT & DRINK 104/ The Best Pizza in Hanoi Pizza with white truffle anyone?
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Contents Nov. 2015
120
130
190
TRAVEL
HCMC
158 / Body and Temple
120/ Con Dao
32 / To-Do List
166 / The Gym Diaries
41 / Overscene
176 / Amazing Grapes
154 / HCMC City Guide
182 / A World of Good
170 / Bar Stool
FINAL SAY
The second part of Matt’s motorbike trip through Bangladesh
172 / Coffee Cup
186 / Visa Privelige
174 / Top Eats 1
The trials and tribulations of getting an American visa
HANOI
178 / Top Eats 2
188 / On the Run
44 / To-Do List
184 / City Map
51 / Overscene
COLUMNS
134 / Hanoi City Guide
138 / The Therapist
140 / Bar Stool
148 / Student Eye
142 / Coffee Cup
150 / Medical Buff
146 / Top Eats
151 / Book Buff
152 / City Map
156/ Business Buff
A trip to the remotest, inhabited islands in Vietnam
126 / Destination Zero Mia Nha Trang
130 / The Motorbike Diaries
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Why expats come to live in places such as Vietnam
190 / The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War Chapter 14 of Wilfred Burchett’s account of the war in Vietnam
196 / Ten 10 Jimmy Pham from KOTO
196
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CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked our team to tell us about their favourite wedding.
OWEN SALISBURY Staff Writer My favourite wedding is always the most recent wedding I’ve photographed... because it was the most recent one my girlfriend has put on through Royal Swans, her event company (please note shameless plug). CHARLES VON PRESLEY Photographer My brother’s. It was on a stage at the beautiful old community theatre building in Iowa. Their wedding was an actual play with dialogue and musical numbers. It was most excellent. JON ASPIN Staff Editor My brother got married in Luang Prabang five years ago. It was incredible. Later on we went bowling and danced like crazy people at the only late nightclub in town. NICK ROSS Chief Editor Mine of course. But then if I didn’t say that, I’d probably end up getting divorced. Although I did go to a very romantic wedding on a beach in Koh Samui a few years ago. VI PHAM Contributor My favourite wedding is the one where my salary and my love life do not get ‘investigated’ by tables of relatives I rarely talk to. VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager I don’t like weddings. There was a time when I had four weddings taking place in the same week, and the monetary gift for each was at least VND500,000. Do the maths! JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer I don’t like weddings so much
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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com
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MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com
JON ASPIN Staff Editor jon@wordvietnam.com
KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com
JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer julie@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter & Photographer francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
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For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to Vu Bao Khanh, Trung Del, Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, George Burchett, Noey Neumark, To Thu Phuong, Matt Dworzanczyk, Natalia Martinez, Charles Von Presley, Vi Pham, Greta Kite-Gilmour, Stephen Cook, Emma Hamilton, The Wilderness Foundation, Saigon River Factory, Bliss Wedding Planners, Hoa Le, Lesley Arnold, Mark Heather, Fabio Zaca, Eleonora Simonato, Dr. Philippe Collin, Alex Smyrnos, Jim Cawood, Harry Hodge, Kieran Crowe, Mia Nha Trang and David Legard
JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer My friends got married on an airboat in the middle of the Everglades (in Florida), and they asked me to film it. There were 30 of us on the boat with the groom and his bandmates playing live. I’m very cynical about weddings, but watching them get married in the middle of this vast swamp echoed how her love for him felt. It made me teary-eyed.
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Prelude
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his month we should have come out late. There were so many events throughout late September and October, so many promoters and venues competing for audiences, that our team was out virtually every night. That we were on time was due to having
frustrations — have you tried driving through Saigon’s District 2 area recently? But it feels like we are in the middle of exciting times. Which is why we decided to focus this month’s issue on weddings… Well, maybe not quite — weddings are so commonplace in Vietnam that for many people, the excitement of attending one is a bit worn. Yet it’s such a huge industry here, and there are so many stories to tell — particularly about love and broken love — that
weddings make for a good topic. If you can do it right, that is. So, we hope you’ll like our cover story. We’ve tried not to be soppy and lovey-dovey, tried to avoid the prick of cupid’s arrow and too many mot-hai-bayos for our own good — although with all the events last month, we’re not so sure about that one. Instead we’ve focused on that aspect of weddings that you might quite not see — the behind the scenes part. We hope you enjoy it! — Nick Ross, Chief Editor
CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 11 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS và NICK ROSS
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The
six articles left over from our October issue. Bad planning? Maybe. Useful? Hell, yes! By having so much content, we are able to pick and choose, chop and change, and ensure that Word remains lively, up-to-date and, we hope, entertaining. A friend said to me recently that we make Vietnam look much more exciting than it actually is. I disagree. There really is a lot going on here at the moment, and the vibrancy and energy of this country’s biggest cities is something to behold. Yes, there are
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Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.
Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us at editor@ wordvietnam. com — we’re at your fingertips.
(October 2015) So impressive the way these human beings cope with life, without whining, just doing it day after day with the ingredients (hard work, a smile) that allow them to bring home the bare minimum. — WM
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On the Streets
CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 10 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS và NICK ROSS
This is what the magazine should be about. Personal stories. The stories of people from around this country. — JF Giang the banh mi guy. You’re right.
He never gets an order wrong. Until last week. It was completely the wrong banh mi and I gave it to the dog. When I went back yesterday he apologized without me even saying anything. He knew he’d messed up. — JC That flower lady woman. Wow! What a life. It’s quite clear that her husband is a complete idiot. No wonder she’s staying in Hanoi. — NN Love the photo of The Salad Professor. I want those scissors! — EC
The Front Cover (October 2015) I just LOVE the picture on the cover. It reminds me why I love this country: it’s all about emotions. So moving… — MW Great cover this month. I hope you’re going to give a copy of the magazine to that woman. — LP Wow! A really moving cover. Love it! — JB Best cover you’ve done this year. — MJ
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Innovative Vietnam This country is entering exciting times. But as ever, there’s a caveat
PHOTO BY RAYMOND BRYSON
Talk Lead
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here’s a cheese dinner at Lubu Saigon. But this isn’t just any old selection of Edams, cheddar, Camembert and Brie. This is artisan cheese brought from the UK paired with a selection of wines, stout and Scotch single malt. It’s innovative and it’s interesting. Much of this funkier, more creative form of entertainment has been knocking around for years, but suddenly, from nowhere, it’s everywhere. There’s been an explosion. Up north in Hanoi, the Monsoon Festival has just held its second annual offering, Skrillex has been and gone, and JW Marriott has hosted a Molecular Night matching modernist cocktails with equally modernist cuisine. Hanoi Creative City is up and running as is The Yard. Internationally acclaimed jazz musicians are playing on Don’s rooftop, another beer festival is on its way and Maison de Tet Decor have upped the ante by bringing in an on-site coffee roaster while CAMA and other promoters continue to fly in underground and overground acts to play at various venues around town. There was even a skateboarding festival a few weeks ago and Vietnam’s genuine answer to Glastonbury — Quest — is about to take off for the second time this year. Back down south, drinking is
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in its element, too. A Craft Beer Festival at Saigon Outcast took place last month and someone has just started producing cacao-infused cider. Designer cafes are opening up everywhere, funky runs and obstacle courses are all the rage, the Observatory is bringing international DJs in four, five or even six times a month, the multi-disciplinary performance Standpoint Theories just had its second run of shows and the Sofitel is hosting reality-TV style gala dinners. Like up in Hanoi, entertainment has reached new, enterprising levels.
Hold on to Your Horses One market research professional told me recently: “A few businesses are killing it at the moment, but most others are really struggling.” It’s a sentiment echoed around Vietnam and everyone I speak to says the same; business after business — big and small — is feeling the proverbial pinch. The ones who are killing it — think KAfe, which in just two years has expanded from its Hanoi roots into Saigon — have done something a little different and have done it well. They also have the gleam of newness, are the toast of the young fashionable set, and are riding the wave of a trend. But with all fashion and all new enterprising ideas, the shining light of innovation over time becomes
dull — that is when the real challenge starts. And there are many reasons that can cause businesses to struggle. The underground has become mainstream and the mainstream, except for a few notable exceptions, has become jaded. Markets that were once the preserve of an exclusive few, have filled up to bursting point. When it comes to business, there is a simple rule — if you don’t innovate, don’t upgrade, don’t remain on top of the game, you will fade away and fail. There’s no standing still — if you’re not going forward, you’re going backwards. When your business is set in its ways, being novel is a tough call.
Innovate, My Friend Innovation is about having ideas, and to have ideas you need experience — in this day and age, worldly experience. That is exactly what Vietnam is starting to gain. It is of little surprise then that the events, business ideas and creativity that were once dwarfed by the prevailing motto — “Same, Same But Different” — have now come to the fore. And the year it’s really started to happen? 2015. For the sake of keeping the debt collectors unemployed, let’s hope that those whose business models are no longer fulfilling their original promise, find a way to keep up. — Nick Ross
Big5 The
A film week, Gangnam Style, a hip hop artist and Westlife. What more could you ask for this month?
a
UK Film Week 2015
1
CGV Cinemas, HCMC, Hanoi and Danang Nov. 4 to Nov. 12
An annual event organised by The British Council Vietnam, UK Film Week is a showcase of the best of British cinema. This year, the screenings will take place at selected CGV Cinemas in Hanoi, Danang and Ho Chi Minh City. Featuring award-winning movies, the roster of screenings includes God Helps the Girl (2014), Nowhere Boy (2009), Pulp (2014), Northern Soul (2014), Good Vibrations (2013) and Control (2007). More information on venues and screenings can be found on britishcouncil.vn. Tickets are available at ticketbox.vn
Oddisee
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Cargo Back Stage, Q4, HCMC Tuesday, Nov. 17
Good Vibrations is one of the movies that will be shown as part of the UK Film Week
PSY to play Vietnam. Need we say more?
Brian McFadden from Westlife
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b)
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Acclaimed Sudanese-American hiphop artist Oddisee will be coming to Vietnam as part of his first-ever Asian tour. Having played with The Roots, collaborated with Flying Lotus, Kev Brown and Hudson Mohawke, and produced for Freeway, Little Soul, De La Soul and Nikki Jean, plus the surprisingly still-active Jazzy Jeff, Oddisee won iTunes’ Hip Hop Album of the Year in 2012 for his release People Hear What They See and followed up with The Good Fight this year. Tickets can be purchased through ticketbox.vn and are VND300,000 in advance, and VND350,000 at the door. Show your student ID to get VND100,000 off. Cargo Back Stage is located at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. Doors open at 8pm.
PSY to Play X Festival
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Hang Day Stadium, Hanoi and SECC, HCMC Nov. 20 and 21
Charity Cycle Adventure
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Buon Ma Thuot to Nha Trang Nov. 27 to 29
There are many cycling trips in the name of charity these days, but Saigon Children’s Charity sixth annual Charity Cycle Adventure is one of the best known (and loved). Featuring a three-day cycle ride through some of Central Vietnam’s most beautiful scenery, the 300km trip starts from Buon Me Thuot, cycling off-road through ethnic minority villages, following rivers and coffee plantations to Dalat, before taking the coastal road to Nha Trang. For more info turn to page 37 or email minh@saigonchildren.com
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Brian McFadden and the Ho Tram Open
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The Bluffs, Ho Tram Strip, Vung Tau Dec. 1 to Dec. 6
Former Westlifer Brian McFadden headlines a full week of entertainment at Vietnam’s first major golf tournament, the Ho Tram Open. Located just north of Vung Tau, the competition is vowing to “bring golf and entertainment together” in a week of entertainment. General entry tickets are free, but must be registered for in advance. Guests must purchase tickets for some events — including McFadden’s nightly pool-side grooves. For more information, click on hotramopen. com
South Korean pop sensation PSY of Gangnam Style fame will perform two shows in Vietnam this month during the two-day Super X Music Festival. Park Jae-Sang, better known as PSY, shot to global stardom in 2012 with the Gangnam Style video. It has made history by being the most-watched video on YouTube, having amassed more than 2.4 billion views so far. The festival starts off at Hang Day Stadium in Hanoi before moving south the next day to the Saigon Exhibition and Conference Centre (SECC) in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 7. Tickets start at VND550,000 and can be purchased by clicking on ticketbox.vn/ superx/en
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Briefings HCMC
The Battle of the Chefs
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Reality TV-style dining has arrived in Vietnam
ichelin-star chef Jean-Baptiste Natali is slicing the steak thin. Team member Tran Minh Cuong is preparing the mushrooms. On the next cooking station, Hanoi-based celebrity chef Didier Corlou is going for a thick cut on the beef while his Frenchspeaking team member Alain Nguyen is cracking open the lobster. On the far side of the room, Chef Tu from Don’s Tay Ho is preparing the Dalat zucchini while on Alain Caron’s team, beef has already gone into the frying pan to be sealed. All the while, the two MCs, Thai Tu Tho and Paul Le, are making their way around the
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room while the diners stand, watch, chat, comment and see first-hand what the four teams of chefs are cooking up. Yet, this is no reality TV show or Vietnam Masterchef. This is a gala dinner, a Battle of the Chefs that is the culmination of a week of gourmet cuisine at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza. Pinch yourself and for a second you can picture Gordon Ramsay standing there. He’s not, of course. But if you want interactive, reality-style dining, then this is it.
Saigon Gourmet Week What the Sofitel Saigon Plaza put on in mid-October had not been seen before
in Vietnam. Four Michelin-star chefs including Jacques Pourcel, Thierry Drapeau and Guillaume Galliot and two celebrity chefs were flown in for a week of special lunches and dinners. The response was overwhelming — the hotel’s signature restaurant, L’Olivier, was booked out every day while the buffet venue, Mezz, was equally packed. Having five-star cuisine cooked up by such well-lauded chefs is obviously something the moneyed section of the Saigon public goes for. But it was the gala dinner that really got the juices flowing. The four teams — The Flying Dutchman, The Frogs, The Escargots
PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER
it has crunch, texture, and the spices and sauces give it some real body. The carrot with the lobster tartar is particularly good. In fact, the whole dish is so well received that when I later check the three tables served with Chef Natali’s fare, all plates except for three are wiped clean. Of course, the room is full of foodies — and one Saigon-based chef was critical of the results: “It was okay,” he said at first. “No actually, it was good, but not what I expect of a Michelin-star chef. They should be able to perform under any conditions.” I begged to disagree. I thought the dish was excellent.
The Verdict
and The Spice Boys — were each comprised of three chefs. None of the team members had met before the week of the battle. And they were charged with having to cook 32 servings of one dish in 90 minutes. Thirty of the servings would go to the diners, the other two to the judges. The rest of the meal — two starter dishes and a dessert — was prepared by the Sofitel. Of course there was a caveat. None of the chefs knew what the secret ingredients for each dish would be. In this case it turned out to be Canadian lobster and Australian beef, with all the other cooking ingredients piled up on a stage in the centre of the room. With the ingredients revealed, a sense of excitement flooded through the room. As the chefs moved to their stations to prepare their dish, no-one knew what to expect.
The Final Countdown There are 10 minutes left and the teams are starting to plate up. The video camera moves around the room, broadcasting live; shutters
click, flashes flash, members of the audience ask questions. Alain Caron’s plates look stunning — a medley of vegetables atop thin slices of beef. Now he’s putting the sauce on together with the lobster-filled dumplings. But is he plating up too early? Will the food still be served hot? We’re in a hotel with the aircon on full blast. At the other end of the room, Didier is creating a traditional-looking surf and turf — rare-cooked steak topped with lobster. But it’s chef Natali who finishes first. As I look at his dish, I wonder the same thing — will the food be served hot. I am eating his dish and 15 minutes later I find out for myself. He’s prepared us a roulade — although someone else describes it as beef cannelloni with a crust. It’s rare cooked beef rolled up with lobster and julienne-sliced vegetables, and on the side is a slow-cooked carrot stuffed with lobster tartar. The sauce is a beef jus. I was right. The dish should be hotter. But
With the main courses finished and more wine served, it was the turn of the judges. Here’s how they voted: 3rd Place Equal The Frogs (Thierry Drapeau, David Thai and Nguyen Van Tu) The Flying Dutchman (Alain Caron, Alexander Stapfer, Michael Bao) 2nd Place The Spice Boys (Didier Corlou, Chau Hung Cuong, Alain Nguyen) The Winner The Escargots (Jean-Baptiste Natali, Tran Minh Cuong, Tran Thai Bao) Yes, the dish I ate was the winner. Not that it mattered, of course. The gala dinner was all about the show. Rarely do you see such renowned chefs working in front of your eyes — it adds a new dimension to both the cuisine and to the event itself. And from the post-dinner response, it's something that every single one of us loved. — Nick Ross
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Briefings Hanoi
PHOTOS BY QUEST FESTIVAL / VIET LE HOANG
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ust-covered desert trippers disband to their homelands as the fiery haze of Burning Man is left to smoulder. Closer to home, the tribal drumbeats of Borneo’s Rainforest World Music Festival subside, while Japan’s montane headbangers readjust to stark reality until next year’s Fuji Rock Festival. Yet, in the heart of Vietnam, a community of fun-loving forest-bound folk are getting geed up for what’s becoming one of the most anticipated Southeast Asian festivals of the year. This year’s monster-themed Quest Festival returns for its fifth installment from Nov. 6 to Nov. 8 with a brain-wrinkling weekend of diverse music, performances, tasty food, workshops, an all-new cinema, and a load of positive vibes to leave you feeling fuzzier than your beastly outfit. If I were you, this would be the point at which I’d ignore all other immediate tasks, nab some tickets, and get stuck into fashioning the best mother-flipping monster getup in the history of Quest (if I hadn’t done so already, about five and a half weeks ago. It has lasers on it, and it’s pretty freaking rad). But wouldn’t everyone? When I presented the game plan to a less adventurous friend recently, however, the proposal was swiftly backhanded with rapid-fire moans of ubiquitous dreadlocks, sweaty hugs, and that persistent odour of chai. To be fair, she wasn’t entirely off target. Nevertheless, her vision was naïve at best,
Quest Festival How to survive Hanoi’s hippy-fest and negatively skewed at worst. After all, is a pungent tentful of kaleidoscopic strangers engaging in intense eye contact and massage circles really the scariest thought in the world? For those who answered “Yes”, but are still too delightfully curious to resist one of Hanoi’s best-loved hippy festivals, Quest festival director Malcolm Duckett and creative director Mark Harris are here to provide some quality advice on surviving, embracing, and enjoying Quest Festival. Festivals like Quest often carry a reputation for attracting particular kinds of people. What breed of party-goers should we expect to encounter there? Malcolm: I think there are two distinct groups that come to Quest. Firstly, there are the foreigners, who have often attended major music festivals in their own home countries and abroad. Secondly, we have the Vietnamese crowd, for many of whom Quest is their first festival experience. Mark: It’s basically people who love culture — the arts and music people who, perhaps,
shun the mainstream and enjoy things that are done with love and skill. The Vietnamese interest in the festival is huge now, which makes us incredibly proud — we always wanted the festival to feel welcoming to everyone. Short answer? Awesome fun lovers. What about the atmosphere? Can you describe it in five words? Mark: This is tough. We have broken the rules and made six, but to make up for it we’ve forced them into a catchy acronym: HIPPOS. Hilarious — Funny shit happens all the time Immersive — We create our stunning spaces with love Pounding — So much music, from chilled strings to banging bass Participatory — Get involved. Costume, workshop, perform... Open — Chat to anyone, make new friends Sexy — Surroundings, people and sounds How advisable is it to embrace this year’s theme of ‘monsters’? Is resistance futile? Mark: The choice of monsters was not a
choice at all. The bizarre mutant infection started among the team some months back. Some members, having fully transformed into drooling creatures, are being kept on lockdown until the festival — one is currently chained to a table at Madake. By making an effort to disguise yourself with costume, not only could you be crowned Most Monsterous on the Monster Catwalk (and win a lifetime ticket to Quest), but you may avoid being attacked by the gruesomely infected minions roaming the site. What are the top five essential items that Quest-goers should pack with them? Malcolm: Bring a swimsuit — the entire site is on a peninsula and surrounded by water! Mark: A monstrous costume, an open mind, dancing shoes, something to share. What do you do if a sweaty, hairy, dancing hippy embraces you on the dance floor? Mark: Well that depends how you feel about it. Most of our hippies are hand-reared and here on culture exchanges arranged through the Pan Asian Goa Association (PAGA), and are very respectful. They usually only hug when fed or given free drinks. If it were me, I’d hug them back. — Greta Kite-Gilmour For more info on the upcoming Quest Festival, click on questfestival.net or go to facebook.com/ questfestival. The next installment runs from Nov. 6 to Nov. 8 in Son Tinh Camp, Ba Vi, about 50km west of Hanoi
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Briefings HCMC
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Getting Lost
Somewhere in Phu My Hung, you can escape into a movie-like world of fantasy
PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY
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he big red clock is ticking on the wall. You wipe the sweat from your brow as you try to hack the elevator passcodes and save your fellow agent. Only this is no movie. It’s Lost HCMC Station. Tucked away on the third floor of Vivocity Mall in Phu My Hung, the station literally offers escapism, 45 minutes at a time. Part of the worldwide movement of escape rooms in major cities from Toronto to Tokyo, Lost HCMC features six options: Nemesis, a city scenario with a storyline akin to The Walking Dead; Aokigahara, also known as the Suicide Forest, where your goal is to escape a treacherous Japanese forest; Exodus, rife with biblical overtones from the story of Moses and set in Egypt; Castiglione, set in an Italian castle; Aladdin, which features an Arabian Nights feel; and the spy caper four of us teamed up on, Level 6. “It’s not really scary, some have darker environments,” says Betty Lam, a Hong Kong expat who partnered with Patricia
Ramos to launch Lost HCMC Station. “When I first played in Hong Kong, it was tough.”
Beyond Padlocks Their model seems to have proven successful so far, with the company having launched escape rooms in Vancouver and Singapore in addition to the Hong Kong venture. Team-building events are as much a part of the business model as birthday parties and Sunday outings. “We’ve got really good feedback from customers,” says Ramos. “We use high-tech electronic gadgets, not just padlocks all the time.” As far as the actual escape, it depends on how your mind works, because some of the tasks are more straightforward than others. Your team can also have a big impact, with four heads working together someone may see a pattern you, as an individual, might not. Without giving too much away, our situation involved a Mission: Impossible style scenario, with a fellow agent in peril and us on the way for the rescue. Once you are
in the tiny room, a big clock starts counting down from 45 minutes. Thankfully, you get three ‘help’ or 'hint' calls you can make to the front desk, with a staffer in a red jumpsuit aiding you along the way. Solving some of the tasks I gave myself a little, “oh, of course” slap on the head, while others I’m pretty sure I was never gonna get, even with all the prompting in the world. Since our visit was for this article, we got a generous ‘extension’ of our time to complete our mission. There were definitely a lot of number puzzle / pattern-style tasks. And for those who wonder, all instructions to get through to different areas are given in Vietnamese and English, while hidden hatches and trapdoors show the eye for detail and the amount of work into putting together the complex. — Harry Hodge Lost HCMC Station is located at Unit 03-02 Sc Vivocity Mall, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7. Prices per person are VND270,000 (weekdays) and VND320,000 (weekends and public holidays). For more information email lost. vnstation@gmail.com or visit lostvn.com
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 17
Charity of the Month
Life After Trish When their founder, Trish Franklin, left Vietnam during the summer, rather than falling apart, Loreto have accelerated forward. Words by Jon Aspin. Images provided by Loreto
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hen a long-serving CEO or figurehead leaves any organisation, there’s generally a period of uncertainty while the market waits for them to recover. When that organisation is a high-profile children’s charity, and the figurehead has had a reputation as a ‘one-woman army’, it’s a unique situation. The Loreto Kids Charity is in that situation right now, but far from simply ‘recovering’, we’re happy to report that they’re marching forward into the
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future, continuing the work of their now Melbourne-based patron.
Legacy Sister Trish Franklin spent 20 years improving lives here in Vietnam, establishing Loreto in 1997. Anyone who’s been here for longer than a nano-second should be aware of her story, as is the Australian media. On Jul. 31 this year (the exact same date she arrived in this country in 1995), she returned to Australia with the heaviest of hearts. Her legacy? A charity that has so far
touched the lives of over 55,000 poor and impoverished children. That’s the number given to me by Ha My, the new CEO of the Ho Chi Minh Citybased organisation, who admits that while the team misses their ‘dear Trish’, they’re determinedly moving on and continuing the work she left. Ha My, who has been with the organisation for eight years, stresses the need that still exists in some of the far-flung corners of Vietnam, where basic opportunities like a proper education aren’t a given.
It’s for this reason that Loreto focuses its efforts on early learners, and their latest project is about building kindergartens in the countryside. “We feel that building kindergartens is the best way to boost children’s early education,” Ha My tells me. Loreto started in Ho Chi Minh City helping children with struggling family backgrounds and children with disabilities. At the end of 2010, they reached out to the country's remote and far-flung provinces to help children living in poverty and learning in dilapidated environments. Their
projects include equipping computer rooms, building friendly libraries, renovating classrooms and building building toilet blocks, all examples of them living their motto: “Lifting Learners into the Future”.
Holding Hands Already well known among expats, whose corporate support Loreto greatly appreciates, Ha My has also put out a call for more Vietnamese to get involved. Since last year, she says, they’ve been trying to raise awareness among wealthier locals,
who may not have seen their work. “Vietnamese helping Vietnamese is the best way forward,” she explains. “We are based in Vietnam, so if we can all hold hands together, we think we can help another 50,000 children who need it.” To find out more about Loreto go to loretovietnam.org. The charity is putting on a fundraising Gala on Nov. 7 at SOUL Music and Performing Arts Academy, 214-216 Pasteur, Q3, HCMC. For ticketing information, email tuyen@loretovietnam.org or call (08) 3910 6364
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Startup
of the
Month Hanoi
Vimp
A locally created website is providing extensive marketing resources for small business
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ung Anh Doan has a grin plastered to his face throughout our entire interview. Perhaps that’s his default. Perhaps he’s constantly smiling while he wiles away the days in Hatch Nest’s 14th floor office, from his windowside table that overlooks a landscape of Hanoi’s red and green rooftops. I sensed something else, though. I sensed that Tung is genuinely thrilled to be telling his story, the story of Vimp. The second I tell Tung and his colleague, Ngoc Vu, that I’m a marketer by day, Tung’s smile broadens. “Then you must understand our product,” he exclaims. “What we do, we do for marketers.” Vimp is a marketing tool for small
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businesses and online marketers. It’s a place to find content, such as images, videos, articles, and infographics, and to publish this content efficiently and systematically across social media platforms. Vimp also provides marketers with statistics reflecting the “viral potential” for each piece of content, replacing guesswork and superfluous time consumption with easy-to-read numbers and answers. “In Vietnam there are 600,000 small businesses, many of which are based from home and have no employees,” Tung estimates. “With less resources, they face many difficulties in marketing.” With Vimp, Tung and his team strive to make
marketing easier (not to mention cheaper) for these businesses.
Moving Fast Since Vimp’s launch earlier this summer, it has acquired over 400 customers in the United States and Vietnam, and has continued to expand and organise its online content pool. Currently, Vimp hosts over one million pieces of content. “The content we host isn’t limited to business topics,” Ngoc clarifies. “We have everything from investing to entertainment to lifestyle categories, all to make the content marketer’s job easier.” As far as startups go, Vimp’s launch happened at an astonishingly fast speed.
PHOTOS BY VU BAO KHANH
Tung quit his IT job earlier this year with the hopes of joining the startup world as a founder (he’d had experience with startups in the past). A couple of months later, with some help from the folks at startup incubator Hatch and the gradual additions of team members, Vimp was born. Vimp’s team is small but strong. “I started out as a solo man,” Tung says. “I’ve been adding people along the way to take the journey further.” Tung outlines his team for me: “Ngoc Vu, the Storyteller; Phong Nguyen, the Coding Geek, a 22-year-old young talent; Anh Do, the Man Who Makes Everything Beautiful; and Aaron Everhart, our Mentor.” Both Ngoc and Everhart joined
Vimp via Hatch, a company that Everhart co-founded.
Home Business What’s next for Vimp? Global domination may take a few years, but they do plan to tackle both the US and Vietnam in 2016. In Vietnam, Ngoc explains, Vimp focuses on small home businesses, many who use Facebook as a marketplace to promote or even sell their products. “Facebook is, in general, a popular place for content marketing,” she says. “We’re focusing on these Vietnamese home businesses here because Facebook already plays such a central role.” Tung sings the praises of Vietnam’s startup community, a sentiment not often
heard in these parts. “We’ve learnt a lot and been inspired by Hatch and other success stories, and Vietnam has lots of ‘pros’ when it comes to start-up culture,” he tells me. “Vietnam is a developing country with fast growth of internet and mobile, and its low-cost resources mean there are a lot of opportunities to start a company.” Social media might seem simple, but as a marketer it can eat up a great deal of time. With Vimp, Tung hopes to save small businesses the time that would otherwise be spent tweeting, Facebooking, and Instagramming away the day. These small businesses are Vimp’s driving force, Tung explains, with a smile. “We just want to make their lives easier.” — Noey Neumark
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Building of the Month
PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
The Apartment Block Today’s developers are no longer so interested in the communal living of the past
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t the end of the alleyways off Lac Long Quan and backing onto the about-to-be-completed highway, Vo Chi Cong, is an apartment block. But it’s not your typical 21st century apartment block. This one was built in the late 1970s or early 1980s and was constructed around a central square. It was the period before Vietnam started its transition in ideologies, a time when community was one of the key concepts running through the minds of the country’s architects. So the block was built around a central courtyard, a space where the structure’s residents could come together to meet. Daubed in pagoda yellow and with wooden shutters and iron railing gates, the apartment block is now facing a challenge from the new road. Where once it backed onto countryside and paddy fields, now it finds itself wedged next to a highway. The peace and solitude of yesteryear is now a memory. Yet unlike many other old apartment blocks in the capital, this one is in good condition. At least, a recent lick of paint makes it look that way. It’s also not under threat of being knocked down.
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In a recent contemporary art exhibition in Queensland, Australia, one of the featured works was a sculpture by Hanoi-born artist Nguyen Manh Hung. Entitled Living Together in Paradise, the artist created a diorama to surround a hand-built, three-meter-tall model of a residential housing block in Hanoi. It was a reference to his childhood home. “I was born and raised in an apartment block in Hanoi,” wrote the artist. “With over 20 years’ experience of living in it, I found it was like a ‘village’ stacked on top of each other. It was [supposed to represent] a selfimprovement of living space, farming and growing vegetables, an upgrade of living conditions. People shared everything with little privacy or confidentiality.” Today’s apartment complexes are no longer built with the same ethos. Residents live in microcosms of their own making, rarely interacting with neighbours. If they come together, it’s in the swimming pool or gym, or in the restaurants and cafes that accompany the new complexes. The central courtyard where everyone knows everything about each other’s lives no longer exists. So what do residents prefer? The
communal living of the past or the individualist living style of today? We don’t know. But if the apartment complexes like the one of Lac Long Quan can be restored and preserved, then at least Hanoi’s residents will have the choice. — Nick Ross
Briefings Hanoi
Nebula Vietnam
A new non-profit is using skateboarding to teach life skills to Vietnam’s less-fortunate youth
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ndrew Van Der Linden first came across the concept of Nebula at home in Cape Town, South Africa. A good friend, Rayne Moses, started an organisation called the Nebula Youth Development Programme, after meeting a kid in the street who asked Moses to teach him to skateboard. This relationship blossomed into a positive influence that radically changed the boy’s performance at school. Inspired by this, Andrew moved to Hanoi eight months ago to start a Vietnamese chapter of the organisation. The group now works in collaboration with Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation,
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holding regular weekly skate lessons on Wednesdays and Fridays for at-risk youth. The group provides boards that the kids are allowed to sign out and borrow for practice. “Most of the stuff that I give them is secondhand from myself,” says Andrew. “A lot of stuff has also been donated, like the full set ups. But we don’t just give things to the kids. We don’t want to take away from the concept that we’re trying to teach them, to work for things themselves. We don’t want to just hand it out.” He adds: “When the kids do stuff that benefits their own lives in any way, we tend to reward them, but only for things they’ve done off the board.”
One of the kids in the programme is only in grade eight, but is four years older than the rest of his classmates now that he’s gone back to school. So Nebula gave him a set of wheels. Another kid sees his future as a chef. He’s taken up a chef course, so Nebula gave him a set of wheels as well.
Perseverance Nebula also organises competitions to benefit the rest of the skating community in Hanoi, like their Best Trick Jam in early October at Hanoi Creative City. Featuring a series of contests open to all interested participants, the competition also brought a pro skate team from the US to demonstrate their skills for the kids. Says Andrew: “Whether you
PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL
win or lose, everybody’s still friends and still skates together at the end. It’s a nice eye opener for [the kids].” The group’s long-term vision is to open a skate shop and build an international-standard skate park for public use, something the skate community in Hanoi severely lacks. Andrew hopes that by using skateboarding as a metaphor for life, Nebula can teach at-risk youth to get back up when they fall, and continue to persevere. “Everybody wants instant results, and what we want to show them is what you can achieve, not what you have achieved. We are trying to teach the kids that there’s a bigger picture, but there are steps to getting there.” — Jesse Meadows
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 25
Briefings Ten things to watch out HCMC
for when you go drinking Everyone’s out to make a buck, right? But sometimes, writes Stephen Cook, buck-making can go a bit below the line
1) Diluted booze This is the obvious one. Bars in Vietnam, especially in tourist districts, are all about their all-mighty margins (see: dollars) and a quick way to extend their stock is to water down their stash. They may even get a few extra shots out of the bottle after diluting that bad-boy with nuoc suoi. If you suspect the bar is cutting their stock, order a shot of neat dark liquor, like Jack Daniels or Jameson. If it doesn’t look like liquid shoe polish, go elsewhere.
4) Markups on Mixers If you order a gin tonic, many bars will charge you for both the gin and the tonic independently. The going rate for the mixer is usually in the order of VND10,000, which is what they cost per can at Circle K. Even though you’ve bought the can with your first drink, they will continue to re-charge you for the same can of mixer each time you re-up. You can beat this one by buying a single can of mixer, and ordering your booze on the rocks. Mix as you go! Beat the system! Lights out, guerrilla radio!
2) Fake Alcohol
5) Half Drinks
Rum should not taste like bubble gum. Gin should not taste like vodka and pinesol. Dying rice-ethanol yellow does not make it tequila any more than Yamaha Exciter taillights will make your Nuovo a Yamaha Exciter. People selling empty bottles on the side of the road are not peddling them so college freshmen can make sweet neon lamps for their doom rooms.
This is not a whisky soda. This is a splash of alcohol and a splash of mixer in an already tiny (4oz) glass.
3) Tiny Measures A standard shot is 44ml or 1.5 fl oz. However, most bars in Vietnam use 29ml ‘short’ shots. These are a full 50 percent smaller than a standard shot in America or Europe or almost everywhere else. A bar is advertising a bucket that they claim has five shots? It really has three. These drinks are about as disappointing as the new True Detective, which is saying quite a lot.
6) Ice berg, right ahead! In a country where virtually everything is much smaller than what we’re probably used to, there are two exceptions. Carrots and ice cubes; both of which are comically large. While massive carrots probably aren’t hurting our 3am benders (or maybe they are? Who knows how you party…), a cylindrical anvil of ice is the Kanye West to our T-Swift. If you want to feel worse than you already do about ordering a VND120,000 rum and coke, remove the ice cube and behold your three sips of cocktail.
7) Creative Glass Sizes To fool customers into ordering more expensive bigger drinks, some establishments will offer a larger size drink for a small amount of extra dong. They are relying on an age-old visual trick wherein taller = greater mass.
8) ‘Strong’ Drinks = Less Mixer Ordering a double, or stronger drink will run you twice the price since economiesof-scale isn’t a thing in Asia. In reality, a lot of places will just use less mixer and more ice. The now defunct and unfortunately named ‘f*ck strong buckets’ on Ho Chi Minh City’s De Tham was notorious for this. A ‘f*ck strong’ vodka Red Bull came to you half full, and it was only “strong” because they pretty much held the Red Bull and gave you a frosty bucket of engine degreaser — Vietnamese rice vodka.
9) Terrible Happy Hour Deals ‘Buy two get one free’ is a desecration of this holy pillar of work / life-balance. Happy Hour means buy one, get one free (or a percentage discount from the normal price). The bars advertising these lame sales techniques aren’t actually saving you any money. By requiring you to buy two, the profits from drink A and B have already covered drink C and then some. This crappy deal only works if you happen to be out in a group of exactly 3 people.
10) Hidden VAT and Service Charge This one is the worst. This one is the crouching tiger of bar rip-offs. Instead of building the VAT into the price like pretty much every established company in Viet Nam, many bars arbitrarily adopt the American style of charging (which the majority of bars in America ironically don’t do). The notification on the menu is already so small that you either fail to notice it, or have already settled in with your drinks by the time you do. And any establishment shady enough to randomly not include the tax is usually greedy enough to add an additional 5 percent service charge. Take that, valued customer!
Vietnam's favourite Brazilian restaurant.
A
, DISHES W E N H N OW WIT D A NEW FEEL. OK AN O L W NE
Au Lac Do Brazil I HCMC - 238 Pasteur, Dist. 3 Tel: (08) 3820 7157 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682 pr@aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi - 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist Tel: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330 pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 27
Briefings HCMC
A Fuzzy History PHOTO BY VU HA KIM VY Colin O’Keefe, one half of the duo behind Saigon-brewed craft ale, Fuzzy Logic
I
f you like history, check out my friend’s You Tube channel called Objectivity — it’s amazing. If you like beer, there’s a chance you were at Ho Chi Minh City’s first ever* Craft Beer Festival, where a little bit of history was made. Held on Oct. 10 at Saigon Outcast in District 2, the Beer Fest drew many a hirsute gent — and quite a few un-hirsute ladies — who gathered to taste the labours of a growing cluster of local beer artisans. The reason? In 2015, ‘craft beer’ found a legitimate market in Vietnam, not to mention a second dedicated venue (see Bar Stool on page 170). So the event had a definite ‘coming-out’ feel to it — for beer that doesn’t appreciate your mainstream lifestyle.
Beergasm Right in the thick of the Saturday afternoon beergasm featuring blues, roots and stand up comedy was Colin O’Keefe, one of several men typifying the spirit of craft in this city. He, along with his business partner Max Crawford, who he purports to have met “on a plastic chair on Bui Vien six years ago,” have brought Fuzzy Logic to the market — that’s the name of his beer — quite literally from
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their front room to your amber-loving lips.
Three hundred bucks Previously a teacher and before that working for a company creating event spaces in New York, Colin’s burgeoning career in beer so easily might not have happened. “I had no idea, no plan to get into this, no background in it,” Colin tells me with a smile. It was his friend Max, who had left and then returned from the US with some brewery experience under his belt, who had the ‘grand plan’ he says. Step 1; set up a brewery in District One, Step 2; take over the world, Step 3; retire to a tropical island, ‘beer-legend’ status assured. It took Colin to bring him back down to earth slightly. Basically, tired of his daily soliloquizing, but believing in the idea, he offered him the princely sum of three hundred bucks and asked him if he could set up a brewing system with that. The answer? “Yes.”
Brewing a business Since then it’s been a two-year journey tinkering with recipes, hiring and building equipment, expanding production and coming up with a name, all while resisting the
temptation of outside investment by friends, to remain independent. In the process, Fuzzy Logic’s problem has gone from trying to make the beer at all, to now worrying about being able to make enough of it. At the time of printing you could buy a ‘Dirty Blonde’ at Bia Craft, Outcast, Decibel, Game On, Soul Burger and Pacharan, with others in negotiation.
Magnates With their target of ten locations drawing quickly closer, Colin says that at that point they’ll take a deep breath, sit back and “work out how to do this”. Trying to draw him on some numbers, he says that financially they’re “better than breaking even” now, but whatever they make is at this point reinvested straight back into their fledgling business. Either way, whenever the millions start rolling in, or even if they never do, it’s already a long way from that first moment of realisation two years ago, when as newly enthused home-brewers, they invited a bunch of friends around to drink the first keg of their as yet unnamed beer, looked at each and thought “this could work”. — Jon Aspin
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Sports Digest
Hanoi International Football League
From the sidelines, Harry Hodge sizes up Vietnam’s month in sports
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or many expats, football is a chance to not only play a familiar game, but become familiar with a new place. In the capital, sports enthusiasts have used the Hanoi International Football League (HIFL) as a way to feel they are part of the city. The original ‘Hanoi League’ was conceived in 2002. Back then, as now, most Vietnamese teams played six or seven-a-side games. There were two established foreigner-based teams, known as the Drink Team and the Capitals, who wanted to play 11-a-side matches. After arranging a series of friendly games against local teams, they decided to start up a league in order to be able to play regular competitive matches. In autumn 2002, the league began with six teams. This season there are nine teams, including five mainly foreign player-based teams that have consistently played in the league for the past few years. These include Minsk FC, the Capitals, the Drink Team, Roots and Red Star, a 100 per cent local team called Brothers who have also maintained a presence for many years, and three new teams TMG, UNIS and HSS. The league has a fairly even mix of local and foreign players. “Most of the team-mates seem to become good friends, which helps ensure that the matches are social as well as sporting occasions,” says John Symons,
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one of the HIFL’s organizers. “One’s whole weekend can become focused around the match, which invariably ends in a very long post-match beer session with both teams and their friends.” He adds: “The spirit of the league is very important to us — we want it to be enjoyable for all — and that comes from not getting beaten 7-0 by all the other teams in the league.” The league hopes to have eight to 10 equal teams, with a good mixture of local and foreign players, with all teams capable of beating each other on their day. “All of the teams in the league have to organise their own home pitch and referees — therefore the locations vary year by year depending on the teams involved, with several of the teams sharing their home pitches and alternating playing at home each week,” Symons said. This year the stadiums are at Xuan La, Phuc Tan, My Dinh, An Duong, Tan My, Me Tri and by the Red River. There are no fees to join or play in the league. Each team has to arrange their own home pitches, referees, kit and balls. Many of the teams have Facebook and web pages so that interested individuals can contact them to ask to join their training sessions. More details can be found on the league’s Facebook page or at hanoiinternationalfootballleague. blogspot.com
Hanoi’s Oanh dashes to glory at National Athletics Championships
Minsk FC (green and white hoops) take on Brothers (light blue) at Xuan La Stadium. Minsk FC won 3-0
The Hanoi team’s firstplace finish at the National Athletics Championships, which wrapped up in Ho Chi Minh City last month, was thanks mostly to star athlete Nguyen Thi Oanh, writes Vietnam News. Of Hanoi’s 14 gold medals, the 19-year-old runner Oanh contributed six golds and won the title of best athlete at the event. On the last day of competition, Oanh took gold in the women’s 200m with a time of 23.54 sec. It was her best time in this race to date. The five-day tournament involved 400 athletes from 44 teams nationwide, competing in 50 medal events.
Vietnam Drop Heartbreaker to Iraq Hosts Vietnam missed out on a win in their 2018 FIFA World Cup qualifier against Iraq last month, when the visitors equalized from the penalty spot in the final minute of extra time in Hanoi. Striker Le Cong Vinh opened the scoring for Vietnam in the 25th minute following good interplay between himself and midfielder Trong Hoang. Goalkeeper Nguyen Manh played a great game, denying at least three clear Iraqi chances, as they pushed forward during the last 25 minutes in the hope of finding an equalizer. In the final seconds of six added minutes, Iraq was awarded a penalty when a handball was deemed to have taken place, with the ball hitting the hand of a Vietnamese defender. Unfortunately, Vietnam followed up their draw to Iraq with a 3-0 defeat to Thailand in Hanoi.
Academy stalwart signs with Japanese club Hoang Anh Gia Lai has agreed to lend its young striker Cong Phuong to Japanese club Mito
Hollyhock for a year for US$100,000 (VND2.2 billion) The 20-year-old striker, who graduated from the Hoang Anh Gia Lai Arsenal JMG Football Academy in Gia Lai Province, will begin to play for the J-League 2 club next year. He will be paid a monthly salary of about US$3,000, plus insurance and other allowances. Earlier, Mito Hollyhock’s representatives visited Hoang Anh Gia Lai and invited four players to join the club in Ibaraki Prefecture. However, the players did not go to Japan due to their V-League schedule.
Vien continues remarkable year in the pool Vietnam’s top female swimmer Nguyen Thi Anh Vien won a gold medal and broke the CISM Military World Games’ record in the women’s 200 medley final in South Korea last month. The Can Tho-born Vien defeated seven other swimmers and clocked a time of 2:13.87, breaking the previous record of 2:13.92. Vien previously won gold at the Youth Olympics in 2014 in the 200m medley with a time of 2:12.66. At the 28th Southeast Asian (SEA) Games in Singapore in June, she also took gold and set a new record with a time of 2:13.53. Earlier, Vien received the bronze medal in the women’s 800m medley with a time of 8:39.41. It is the first time Vien has taken part in the Military Games which attracted approximately 8,700 soldiers from 110 countries. It is organised every four years, one year before the Olympic Games. Vien was a phenomenon at the Singapore Games after winning eight golds, one tes silver, upda ur d n e o S out y p or and one ab g grou @ bronze in ry o medal and sp rtnt to har .com m e ev vietna breaking eight SEA word Games records.
PHOTOS BY VU BAO KHANH
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ToDo list HCMC
Art, charity galas, theatre, rugby, pool parties and comedy. Saigon's got a bit of evverything this month
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3
The Power of Semiosis
Soleil by Japanese artist, Yohei Yama
Felix Olschofka and Eun-Young Joo will be performing at German night at the HCMC Conservatory
German DJ Borrowed Identity will be playing at Observatory
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Vin Gallery, Q2 Until Sunday Nov. 15 You may have missed the opening of Yohei Yama’s new art show, but you can still see the Japanese master’s take on Op Art until mid-November. Born in Japan and residing in France, the self-taught Yohei Yama turned to painting miniature trees as a source of solace in the aftermath of the Fukushima nuclear accident. Combining colourful, eye-bending abstract works that provide the illusion of motion with trees is an intriguing idea, and this event is a must for lovers of modern art. Vin Gallery is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC. Click on vingallery.com for more information
German Night at The Conservatory Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory of Music, Q1 Friday Nov. 6 A master German violinist partly trained in the US teams up with an Austrian-Russian trained Korean pianist to perform the recital A German Night on Friday Nov. 6. Expect great music, despite how much this sounds like some corny premise for a niche romantic drama
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or a bad spy movie. Violinist Felix Olschofka was trained in Berlin and the University of California, San Diego, and has toured the world as a soloist, concert-master, and James Bond villain in waiting. Pianist Eun-Young Joo graduated from the Vienna State Conservatory with distinction, and received her doctorate from the Gnessin Russian Academy of Music, and would no doubt fall fatally in love with the suave MI6 agent. But seriously, if you love German music, grab some tickets and come expand your mind at what promises to be one of the best classical music concerts of the year. To purchase tickets call 0903 034112. The standard cost is VND150,000 with VIP tickets going for VND300,000. The Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory of Music is at 112 Nguyen Du, Q1, HCMC
Loreto November Gala Soul Music & Performing Arts Academy, Q3 Saturday Nov. 7 If you need a home for your charity dollar, look no further. The Loreto November Gala is a cultural evening including live performances by Thanh Bui (Ambassador of Loreto Kids Charity), the SOUL CLUB and various other artists in Saigon to
fundraise for the construction of a kindergarten for poor rural children. According to the press release, “various professional and quintessential performances” will also be contributed by a band of vision-impaired children, who will breathe the rhythms of life, love and inspiration into every single soul present. All proceeds from the event will go directly to benefit underprivileged children in remote areas. Loreto Kids Charity has helped over 55,000 children in six provinces of Vietnam since 1997. For more info, email Ms. Tuyen on tuyen@loretovietnam.org, call (08) 3910 6364 or 0938 689820, or click on loretovietnam.org. Tickets cost VND500,000 with children under 12 going for free. The event starts at 6pm and Soul Music & Performing Arts Academy is at 214 – 216 Pasteur, Q3, HCMC
Observatory Turns Two Observatory, Q4 Saturday, Nov. 7 The Obs is celebrating its second birthday with the help of German DJ, Borrowed Identity. A key mover and agent in the contemporary creation of cutting edge, soul-moving and deeply intelligent house music, B.I played
once before at the old Obs venue and tore the roof down with his unique blends of foot-moving sounds. This night ends the weekend celebrating The Obs and the music we love, so get down and have some fun. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. Entrance TBA
Mzungu Broma: Not a Bar, Q1 Saturday Nov. 7 Feeling footloose — again? Mzungu is back, foreignising your face at Broma: Not a Bar. Mzungu — a Bantu word literally meaning “rootless wanderer” — almost always refers to, er, persons of European descent. So show up, and show off those whitey dance moves. Presented by 1dan, Mzungu showcases Afro house, mindexpanding cosmic jazz and broken beat. Plus, Broma has excellent outdoor seating for when the broken beat takes its toll and you have to nurse a sprain. And remember, booze is an excellent painkiller. With free entry, the price is right and the music will shake up our urban jungle, making the night just a little bit funkier. Broma: Not a Bar is at 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Entry is free all night
Call Us
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ToDo list HCMC
InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Q1 Saturday, Nov. 7 Following our brief mention a couple of months ago of Intercon’s 11am to 9pm gorge-fest superbrunch, it returns to stretch stomachs everywhere yet again. Held on the first Saturday of every month, the Super Brunch includes free-flowing Veuve Clicquot champagne and an enormous selection of fresh seafood. Take pauses to digest and listen to the DJ or watch the live entertainment. Check out all three of Intercon’s house restaurants, as all get a piece of that super brunch action. At a paltry VND2.8 million per person, who can resist such a deal? For more information, call (08) 3520 9099. InterContinental Asiana Saigon is at the corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, HCMC
Based on Kyoto
Lawrence and Holloman
Observatory, Q4 Saturday, Nov. 14
Saigon Outcast, Q2 Nov. 20, 21 and Nov. 27, 28
The world-acclaimed live electronic music duo — who were in fact the first international performance ever hosted at The Observatory in November 2013 — return for the third time to enchant us with their mesmeric live performance that incorporates guitars, synths and oceans of imagination. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. Entrance TBA
How is it that some people can have so much going for them, while other people have nothing at all? Dragonfly Theatre Company present the production Lawrence and Holloman by Morris Panych. Pathologically pessimistic Holloman meets perennially optimistic Lawrence in a fleeting encounter. The bizarre plot of their meaningless lives unfolds and what ensues is a deliciously dark comedy. Performed in the open air at Saigon Outcast in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2, this company continues to keep the drama coming. Tickets are VND350,000 in advance from ticketbox.vn or VND400,000 on the door. For more information email dragonflyvietnam@gmail.com or visit
The first wine of the new harvest is on its way — Beaujolais Nouveau
Dragonfly will be putting on the play, Lawrence and Holloman this month
Images from the forthcoming exhibition, In Opposite, by Ngo Van Sac
Well-known TV chef Luke Nguyen will be one of the chefs at Nosh Food Week
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Beaujolais Nouveau
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Intercon Super Brunch
OnTop Bar, Novotel Saigon Center, Q3 Thursday Nov. 19 Where is the young wine, hanging from the vine? Right here in Saigon, at this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau celebration. A French tradition typically occurring on the third Thursday of November, it celebrates the end of grape harvesting and the release of the first wine of the year — Beaujolais Nouveau. Organised by CCIFV and Vins Descombe, the free-flowing imported 2015 French Beaujolais will be served from 6pm to 9pm. Presale tickets cost VND650,000 and are available until Nov. 18. After that, tickets cost VND800,000. Tickets may be purchased from Vins Descombe, Vang Hoang Anh, 118 D2, Binh Thanh, or at CCIFV, the Landmark Building, 15th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC
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Dragonfly’s Facebook page at facebook. com/dragonflyvietnam. Saigon Outcast is at 118 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC
In Opposite Craig Thomas Gallery, Q1 Nov. 20 to Dec. 9 Craig Thomas Gallery is busy this month and next, hosting The Hope in its Calmette branch and In Opposite at its Tran Nhat Duat location. In Opposite is the new solo collage and mixed-media exhibition of 35-year-old Hanoi artist Ngo Van Sac, a graduate of Vietnam Fine Arts University. Known for wood burning and multiple self portraits, Sac has found the outside world with his acrylic-based collages. The paintings are his attempt to read the natural world and determine humanity’s proper place
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in it, including all our machinery of modern civilization. For more information, visit cthomasgallery.com. Craig Thomas Gallery is at 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1. The opening reception is on Friday, Nov. 20
Heart Institute Gala GEM Center Saturday, Nov. 21 The Heart Institute of Ho Chi Minh City and the CMI (International Medical Centre) will hold the 5th edition of the Heart Institute Gala this month to support deprived children suffering from heart diseases. Under the theme of Magic Circus, the evening will consist of a welcome cocktail, a five-course French menu with a Vietnamese twist from celebrity chef Jack Lee, auctions, live
performances and entertainment. The organisers describe the dress code as ‘chic and magical’. Tickets cost VND3.5 million or VND35 million for a table of 10 and VND42 million for a table of 12. All proceeds of the Heart Institute Gala directly fund the cost of cardiac surgeries for deprived children suffering from heart diseases. GEM Center is at 8 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, HCMC. The event begins at 6.30pm. For bookings and further info, please email Suzanne Veyron on s.veyron@cmi-vietnam.com
Nosh Food Week Grain Cooking Studio, Q1 Nov. 16 to Nov. 22 15 chefs from 15 different restaurants and venues will be coming together for one week to share a passion for food. Hosted at Grain Cooking
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Studio, in the morning and afternoon there will be cooking classes hosted by the various chefs. These will be followed by supper club dinners each night for 30 people. Including Luke Nguyen from Red Lantern, Alessandro from Pendolasco, Tristan from Elbow Room and Skewers, Hai Anh from 1911 in Hanoi, Jay from The Deck Group, Masterchef winner Hai and many more, the chefs will team up each night in pairs of twos and threes to cook the evening meal. In addition, every lunchtime, the participating restaurants will serve up a special menu deals as part of the whole week. There’s a lot of info on this one, so for more information, please email info@ noshsaigon.com or contact either Sveta or Nguyen on (08) 3824 2380. Grain Cooking Studio is at Level 3, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, HCMC
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ToDo
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list HCMC
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Graham Elwood
youANDme are playing at The Observatory on Nov. 27
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5. Last year’s International Charity Bazaar
The Caravelle is pulling out the stops for Thanksgiving this year
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4. Images from last year’s Charity Cycle Adventure
US Comic Graham Elwood will play Saigon on Nov. 25
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Game On, Q1 Wednesday Nov. 25 Following on from the night with Glenn Wool on Wednesday Nov. 4 at Game On, Saigon International Comedy are havin’ a laugh and are bringing you a second night of stand-up comedy, all in one month. This time round its acclaimed US comic Graham Elwood, who will be pitching up in Saigon on Wednesday Nov. 25. A serial TV-appearance comic — he’s done everything from The Late Late Show through to The Benson Interruption on Comedy Central — Elwood first got into stand-up while at university before moving to LA at the age of 25 to further his career. And that he has done, with two documentaries to his name, numerous performances around the world and a period as the host of two game shows — Cram and Strip Poker. So what’s this comedic bigwig doing in Saigon? Well, he’s here to make you laugh, of course. And together with support from other comedians both local and overseas, expect a night of giggles, hilarity, sniggles and hysterics. Game On is at 115 Ho Tung Mau, HCMC. Doors are at 8pm and entrance is VND200,000. For more information or to book tables, email saigoninternationalcomedy@ gmail.com or click on facebook.com/ saigoninternationalcomedy
Thanksgiving at the Caravelle Caravelle Hotel, Q1 Thursday, Nov. 26 Get your turkey on at Nineteen Buffet Restaurant — and on Thanksgiving, no less! In addition to fresh roasted turkey with all the trimmings, go crazy with the fresh
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lobster, crab, oysters and more. After all, it’s not Thanksgiving without over-indulgence, indigestion, AlkaSeltzer and regret. With five different price levels ranging from VND899,000++ for food only to VND1.49 million++ including an unlimited flow of champagne, craft cocktails, selected house wines and beer, there’s a spot here for everybody’s budget. Nineteen Buffet Restaurant is on the ground floor of the Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1. For bookings, please call 0906 900523 or email eam-fb@caravellehotel.com.
youANDme The Observatory, Q4 Friday, Nov. 27 Berlin duo youANDme are Martin Muller and Daniel Stroeter. Together they’ve absorbed the influences of German house and techno and reshaped it to produce their own emotive style. This has led to spots at Space Ibiza, Sonar Festival, and Berlin’s own Panoramabar. Their achievements and the increasing demand for their talent spans further than DJing with labels like Cocoon,
Rekids, Pokerflat, Compost and Rebirth, who have been picking up their releases. It’s also through working alongside contemporary powerhouses such as Radio Slave, Moodymann, Seth Troxler, Steve Bug, Timo Maas and Lawrence. Don’t miss the speakers pound for these ambassadors of their city, country, and their music as a whole. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Entrance is Free before 11pm and VND150,000 afterwards. The event is hosted by Heart Beat
Saigon Children’s Charity Cycle Adventure Buon Ma Thuot to Nha Trang Nov. 27 to Nov. 29 Do you want buns of steel and calves of iron? The Saigon Children’s Charity (SCC) invites you to be a part of the 6th Annual Charity Cycle Adventure, which will feature a three-day cycle ride through some of Vietnam’s most beautiful scenery, all with the aim of raising money for disadvantaged children in Vietnam. The 300km ride starts from Buon Me Thuot, cycling off-road through ethnic minority villages, following
5 rivers and coffee plantations to Dalat, before taking the coastal road to Nha Trang. In addition to the registration fee of US$675 (VND14.5 million), which covers all costs for the ride, the team of up to 30 riders are asked to get their families, friends and networks behind them to raise a minimum of US$500 (VND10.8 million) which will go directly to support the children that SCC works with. To register for your adventure and for any further details, please contact Tom Duncan (Team Leader) at duncantomd@ hotmail.com or Ms Minh (SCC) at minh@saigonchildren.com
International Charity Bazaar White Palace Convention Centre, Phu Nhuan Saturday, Nov. 28 The Consular Club will be organizing the 22nd annual
International Charity Bazaar on Saturday, Nov. 28. A chance to meet different cultures, and experience handicraft and foods from across the globe, this annual charity event that combines entertainment with multiculturalism draws in thousands. A raffle (draw begins at noon) and photos with Santa Claus are part of the fun, as are games for the kids, items for sale, food and drink, and much much more. For sponsorship information, email charitybazaarHCMC2015@ gmail.com. Otherwise, advance tickets can be purchased from the Consulate General of the State of Kuwait, Tel: (08) 3827 0555, email kuwaitconsulate@gmail.com. Entrance is VND100,000 or free for children under 10 accompanied by an adult. White Palace is at 194 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan, HCMC. For further info click on consularclub.com
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ToDo list HCMC
Saigon Soul Pool Parties New World Hotel, Q1 From Nov. 28 It’s about to get a whole lot hotter in Saigon again. That’s because Saigon Soul Pool Parties are back this month, and we can’t wait to get wet. Already an institution, Saigon Soul is the liveliest pool party in the city. Located in the heart of District 1, every Saturday the finest DJs that this metropolis has to offer turn up at a luxurious pool and start bangin’. From 10am to 10pm they create a “tempting oasis”, where they say, “You’ll be guaranteed a sexy, water-fueled event with some fantastic house music and amazing people.” Know a better way to spend a Saturday? Don’t think so. New World Saigon Hotel is at 2F, 76 Le Lai, Q1, HCMC. Entrance costs VND150,000 Book your VIP cabana on saigonsoul.com
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Rodion
Family Discover Trail will take place on Nov. 28
This year’s annual BBGV’s Christmas bash is a 1920s affair
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The Roman Disco Don is back in Saigon to play at The Observatory for the first time ever. His music is a spaced-out futuristic blend of heavy disco mixed with danceable obscurities such as Mexican techno, synthesizer funk, and many other sounds that simply escape description. Be prepared to dance. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. Entrance TBA
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Family Discovery Trail District 1, HCMC Saturday Nov. 28
6. Christmas comes to AIS in early December
Rodion, the best moustache in DJing
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5. Perfume Genius (US) will headline the Main Stage on the Sunday night of the Mui Ne Music & Arts Festival
Saigon Soul Parties — time to get hot at the New World
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The Observatory, Q4 Saturday, Nov. 28
This month, the Saigon Star International School is starting what they hope will be an annual event, a family-oriented scavenger hunt in the historical part of downtown Ho Chi Minh City. Welcoming children aged three to 12 especially, families who register by Nov. 10 will receive a 20 percent discount, and by Nov. 17, a 10 percent discount. With 30 percent of the proceeds going to Heartbeat Vietnam, this event sounds like a real heart-starter, literally. And for the scavengers there are a whole load of attractive prizes to be won including resort stays, discounts at Saigon Star and restaurant vouchers. For enquiries and bookings, please email familydiscoverytrail@gmail.com
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BBGV Christmas Party InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Q1 Friday, Dec. 4 The British Business Group of Vietnam (BBGV) will be hosting its annual Christmas Party in the ballroom of the InterContinental Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City. As the chamber will be celebrating its 20th year, the bash will be themed as a Roaring 1920s Christmas Party, and naturally, the team behind the event will be pulling out the stops to make it a memorable night. As well as great cuisine, expect an entertainment roster to match. Tickets are on sale at VND2.9 million per person for BBGV members (VND29 million for tables of 10) and VND3.2 million for non-members. To purchase your ticket please contact Nga Nguyen at nga.nguyen@bbgv.org or call (08) 3829 8430 ext. 107
Mui Ne Music & Arts Festival Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Dec. 4 to Dec. 6 The combined forces of some of the best party producers in Saigon are headed to the beach for three days of non-stop fun from Friday Dec. 4 to Sunday Dec. 6. Sponsored by Bacardi, party producers Loud Minority, Saigon Dub Station, Live Art Saigon, Live Audio Visual Saigon, Saigon
Warehouse Project and Saigon Sound System are taking over a beautiful Mui Ne hillside with panoramic views of Mui Ne bay and the fishing fleet. The festival will have three stages and will run from late afternoon to midnight each day. This will be followed by until-thesun-comes-up after-parties at three of the area’s finest clubs — Dragon Beach, Pogo and Line Up. Loud Minority is hosting the Main Stage, which will feature the best of Vietnam's original live music artists as well as a selection of international headline guests each evening. Seattle-based solo artist Perfume Genius has been announced as the Sunday night headliner with Friday and Saturday announcements due in the coming days. Saigon Dub Station, the premier organisation promoting reggae music culture in Ho Chi Minh City, is hosting the Reggae Stage. Expect it to vibrate with the best of reggae, dub, dubstep, jungle and drum ‘n bass, all spun by a team of DJs coming from different horizons. It will feature DJs, MCs, live drumming and some special surprises to keep your vibe up during this unique festival. Movement and Saigon Warehouse Project will present the Dance Stage. After years of experience throwing underground raves and parties beneath train tracks, abandoned factories and courtyards across Manchester, they are bringing their
special brand of event to the beach. The DJs and selectors already confirmed for the festival are: Selecta Morgan (France); Selecta Ivy (Vietnam); DJ Arlo (USA); Skulz (Vietnam); Slowbird (Japan); Jase Nguyen (Vietnam); Dj Animal (UK); MC Kaztet D (France); KCM (France); King Cargo (UK); Sonar Lee (Canada); Selecta Old School (Germany); K-One (Japan); General Knappe (France); Cheezy Gangztaz (VN / FR); Mekong Delta Force (Live Dub Music) Tickets on sale at ticketbox.vn and as well as entrance, transport and accommodation deals are available. For more info do a search on Facebook for Mui Ne Music and Arts Festival
Jingle Bells, Jingle Bells AIS Sports Arena, Q2 Wednesday, Dec. 9 The Australian International School (AIS) are already planning their Christmas festivities this year, with their annual Jingle Bells bash on Wednesday Dec. 9. Providing fun and entertainment for the whole family, the party will include Christmas carols, Christmas songs, a magic show, a quiz, raffles, and of course, the annual opportunity to meet Santa. The party runs from 5pm to 7pm at the AIS Sports Arena, 45 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC. The event is free of charge and open to everyone. To register click on aisvietnam.com/jinglebells
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ToDo list HCMC
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The Hope Craig Thomas Gallery, Q1 Dec. 11 to Jan. 8
Work by artist Pham Huy Thong that will be shown at his latest exhibition, The Hope
A recent Diner en Blanc in Brisbane
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Hanoi artist Pham Huy Thong comes to Ho Chi Minh City to exhibit a new collection of oil and acrylic paintings on canvas and paper watercolours. The 34-year-old artist graduated from the Hanoi Industrial Fine Arts University in 2004 and his star has been steadily rising since. Thong speaks of how ordinary people have learnt hope to survive Vietnam’s turbulent history. The exhibition expresses his belief in the importance of that virtue. For more information, check out cthomasgallery.com. The show will be held at the new Craig Thomas Gallery, 165 Calmette, Q1. The opening reception is at 6pm on Friday, Dec. 11
Saigon Rugby Club Touch Tournament RMIT Oval, Q7 Saturday, Dec. 12 Touchers! The second Saigon Rugby Club touch rugby tournament of the year will be upon us soon, so here’s fair warning to start getting your teams together. These are always a great day out at the RMIT Oval in Phu My Hung, and this time, the competition will be followed up by Diner en Blanc, a new concept in partying where everyone wears white, brings their
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own food and wine, then parties until late in a special public place in Saigon. The location is kept secret until the evening of the event. Talk about mysterious. To take part in the Touch Tournament on Dec. 12 email simonrobson77@ yahoo.co.uk. For Diner en Blanc, go to hochiminh.dinerenblanc.info. And if you need that invite for the all-in-white mystery party, email t.y.mevel@gmail. com. You never know…
Diner en Blanc Location Unknown Saturday, Dec. 12 In yet another case of a private, invite-only event exploding and going corporate, the formerly mysterious Diner en Blanc has arrived in Ho Chi Minh City. Conceived in Paris in 1988 by Francois Pasquier as a private dinner for friends, the event now attracts over 15,000 people in the French capital alone, and is found in 60 cities in 25 countries. The reason for its popularity? The mystery. Diner en Blanc conceals the exact location of their party until the day itself, asking people to bring their own haute picnics, tables, and fine china, wear elegant white clothing, and leave no trash behind. If you aren’t up to cooking a gourmet picnic, you can register for Le Diner en Blanc to provide one. But don’t rush to buy tickets yet;
if you don’t know a member of the organisation to invite you, you must register as a guest on the waiting list and hope. If you do get in, attendance is mandatory, come rain, typhoon, flood or apocalypse. Tickets costs VND670,000 plus a VND180,000 membership fee. Visit hochiminh.dinerenblanc.info for more information, and find a member to invite you — quick. We’ll be looking for one
Ultra Trail Angkor Angkor Wat, Cambodia Jan 13, 2016 If you’re in search of an exotic destination to escape the gloomy winter, Cambodia awaits you. On Jan. 23, the amazing Angkor UltraTrail will take place — and for the first time ever, the ultra trailers will have the privilege to run in the archeological site of Siem Reap, right in the heart of the Angkor temples. This thousand-year old remnant from the Khmer Kingdom and classified UNESCO world heritage site will be the particpants’ running track, whether they choose the 128km, 64km or 32km race. Also acting as a qualifying event for the Mont Blanc Ultra-Trail, the course will take in jungle tracks, sandy paths between tranquil lakes, and bring you up close and personal with the Cambodian people. For more information go to ultratrailangkor.com
overscene ho chi minh
that thousands of revellers turned up at the Windsor Plaza for a night of fine beer, German cuisine, oompah music and Jagermeister.
craft beer festival at outcast
The American spin on the beer that came out of Europe is getting big in Saigon, and Outcast put on a showcase
of all things craft beer last month. Just in time for, erm, Oktoberfest! LOL
VIP dinners, tastings, museum-like showpieces and guests in fine dress. M Residence opened in the
name of marketing a certain Scotch whiskey starting with the letter ‘M’. Guesses anyone?
PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY
It was wild and whacky, and it had people dancing on the tables. So sturdy was this year’s piss-up in the name of that annual Munich beer festival,
opening of m residence
kafe grand opening
That Hanoi institution, KAfe, made its way to Saigon with a bang. Three outlets opened in the space of one
week. And their concept? Coffee and food done well in a contemporary, creative atmosphere.
PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER
oktoberfest at the windsor plaza
The Sofitel Plaza put on a week of gourmet indulgence thanks to four Michelin-star chefs, two celebrity chefs, and awardwinning chefs from Vietnam.
The final hurrah? A reality TV-style gala dinner where the chefs battled it out live to see who could cook up the best main course.
If you have a noteworthy event which you thinkwould fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look. Go to: wordvietnam.com/mediavp/photo-gallery for full viewing access.
PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER
battle of the chefs
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PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS
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Just HCMC
New resorts and hotels, happy hours, food promotions and a new wing at The Heart Institute.
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The new wing of The Heart Institute in Saigon’s District 10
Hotel des Arts is the latest five-star to open in Saigon
The latest offering from Ma Belle Box
Alma Oasis in Long Hai is just 90 minutes from Saigon
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The Heart Institute Gets Bigger The Heart Institute or Vien Tim, the first hospital in Vietnam to perform open-heart surgery, has opened a new wing to help develop its facilities and its ability to both treat and operate on those in need of surgery. Created in 1992 by Professor Alain Carpentier and Dr Duong Quang Trung, the institute’s mission is to offer high-quality care to Vietnamese patients suffering from heart diseases, in particular children. Before the creation of the Institute, no such structure existed in Vietnam. Since 1992, 25,000 patients have undergone cardiac surgery, mainly children and young adults. However, the demand for treatment and operations is increasing, as is the waiting list. There is currently a long list of patients awaiting cardiac surgery at the Heart Institute. The inauguration of the new wing represents a new development phase. It consists of four additional operating rooms, one reanimation room, two interventional cardiology rooms, and 10 beds for the patients. It is hoped that the new facility will help alleviate the growing demand for surgery. About 30 percent of all the cardiac
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surgeries are funded by the Social Department of the Heart Institute, which pays partly or entirely the cost of operations for children from poor backgrounds. The means-tested social aid programme has benefitted more than 4,500 children since the Institute first opened. The Heart Institute is at 88 Thanh Thai, Q10, HCMC. On Saturday Nov. 21, CMI are holding the Heart Institute Gala to help raise funds for heart surgery at the institute. For more information, turn to page 35
Ho Tram Strip Wins Triple Crown The Grand Ho Tram Strip has been awarded Luxury Hotel and Spa of the Year — Vietnam in the prestigious Luxury Travel Guide Awards for 2015, and Best Luxury Hotel in Vietnam in the 2015 Business Destination Travel Awards. In addition, resort president Michael Kelly confirmed that there was a third award given, but remained tightlipped as to what it was. Spreading out the good news, Michael? “It is an incredible honour to have these titles bestowed upon us,” said Kelly. “Awards and recognition such as this highlight all that the team has been able to achieve here in Ho Tram.”
Ibrahim Zulfqar, from the Luxury Travel Guide Awards, called the strip “a truly stunning property”, while William Owen from Business Destination Travel Awards said it represented the best of the travel and hospitality sector in this fast growing Southeast Asian nation. For more info on The Grand Ho Tram Strip, visit thegrandhotram.com
Hotel des Arts Saigon Opens Accor Hotels announced the opening of Hotel des Arts, a centrally located M Gallery property only a short walk to the Opera House, Notre Dame Cathedral and other cultural landmarks in Ho Chi Minh City. The décor of its 168 rooms hearken to a time when overseas travel was a sophisticated, luxurious affair, hinting at mystery with its 19th-century, French-Indochine style. With four restaurants and bars to serve up a variety of culinary experiences, the hotel also offers guests the 23rd-floor Social Club, including the Social Pool Bar on the level above. As part of its opening deal, the hotel is offering a special rate of US$120 (VND2.6 million) per night for superior rooms until Dec. 26.
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PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER
Hotel des Arts is at 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Q3, HCMC. For more info, or to make reservations, visit accorhotels.com or call (08) 3989 8888
Happy Hours Saloon The group behind the three international-styled restaurants and watering holes — Relish & Sons, Stoker and Racha Room — have started up a happy hour worth talking about and certainly having more than a few drinks over. Every day from 3pm to 8pm, gourmet burger joint Relish & Sons are doing a 50 percent deal off all drinks. Stoker, the steakhouse with a bar and probably the best gin cocktails in town, is also doing the same deal, but from 5pm to 8pm. While Thai bar and eatery Racha Room is running a 50 percent deal off all drinks (excluding bottles) from 5pm to 8pm, Monday to Saturday. And for those of you who associate Sundays with extended brunches or gargantuan doses of dim sum, Racha is running a Dumpling Sundays deal. The good stuff, aka dumplings, is going for VND50,000++ per plate, while house wine is at VND400,000++ per bottle with cocktails running in at
VND100,000++ per glass. Relish & Sons is at 44 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC; Racha Room is at 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, HCMC and Stoker can be found at 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, HCMC
Discounts with Foodpanda Hungry and don’t want to leave your couch? Meal delivery website, foodpanda, is offering a 30 percent discount for first orders with the codes HELLO30 and FOODPANDA & WORD through their mobile app until Mar. 31, 2016. This is applied for online payment and orders from VND170,000. The maximum discount will be VND60,000. For more info, please visit foodpanda. vn or download their app on Google Play or iTunes
Ma Belle Box Second Edition Following the success of the first edition, Ma Belle Box has introducing a sequel with a new box full of a random set of travel-sized products including moisturizing day cream, make-up remover, night cream, mascara and lip balm As your beauty is the priority, Ma Belle Box will confirm your
skin type before delivering the box to your door. All the products are from Bioderma, Andalou Naturals, Skinny&Co and Benefit. How does Ma Belle Box work? Every two months you will receive a limited selection of four to five travel-sized products for VND500,000 per box. But you won’t quite know in advance exactly what you’ll get. All part of the surprise. For more info and orders, click on mabellebox.com
Alma Oasis Long Hai Although opening its doors earlier this year, Alma Oasis Long Hai only celebrated its official opening with a grand ceremony last month. Just 90 minutes from Saigon and half an hour north of Vung Tau, Alma Oasis Long Hai is the perfect place to relax for anyone looking to get away from the big city. Built on the site of the former residence of Emperor Bao Dai, fresh modern studios and villas, a beachside restaurant, a lagoon pool and 90-minute daily spa treatments as part of the room package make up the mix. Alma Oasis is at Tinh Lo 44A, Long Hai, Ba Ria - Vung Tau or online at almaoasislonghai.com
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ToDo
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listHanoi From art exhibitions to odd, avant-garde artists, half marathons and charity cycle rides, Hanoi’s got a bit of everything this month
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The Dream
Images from the ongoing exhibition, Dream, at Art Vietnam
Glenn Wool performing at a recent show in Saigon
DJ and producer Jan Hagenkötter will be playing at CAMA ATK
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Art Vietnam, Hoan Kiem Until Nov. 13 Art Vietnam Gallery is hosting an exhibition, The Dream, by Jorge Rivera until Nov. 13. Inspired by the Honda Dream motorbike of the early 1990s, the showcase is a cultural combination of Spain, Vietnam and Japan. It’s also a coordination of the members of the 24 Ly Quoc Su Art Zone, including the Vietnamese LACA art café, Japan’s Pizza 4P’s and the Spanish designer Diego of Chula. Jorge Rivera is a Spanish sculptor residing in London and Taiwan who is also a PhD graduate of Sculpture from Royal College of Art in London. He has exhibited widely around the world and has participated in artist in residency programmes in Taiwan, Tokyo and Berlin. His works are in the public collections of Sotheby’s and the Royal College of Art London, Takumy Museum, Japan, Stanford University, San Francisco, Fundacion Barrie de La Maza, A Coruna, and Fundacion Luis Seoane,
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A Coruna and in private collections. Art Vietnam Gallery is at 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. For more info please email info@artvietnamgallery.com
A Night with Glenn Wool House of Son Tinh, Tay Ho Thursday, Nov. 5 International stand-up comedy returns to House of Son Tinh on Thursday Nov. 5 with a comedic lineup headlined by the highly acclaimed Canadian comic, Glenn Wool. A veteran on the comedy scene, Glenn started performing in 1995 in his hometown of Vancouver. After moving to London in 1998, he was nominated for Best International Stand Up at The New Zealand Comedy Awards and best headliner at the Chortle Awards and soon became a rising star on the international comedy circuit performing to large audiences in places as far flung as Australia, New Zealand, USA, South Africa, Switzerland, France, Croatia, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Holland, Dubai, New York and Los Angeles. Known for his melodramatic,
over-the-top delivery, Glenn is a serial festival performer, having played at all of the UK’s top festivals. He’s also done the TV rounds, as well. This will be Glenn’s third visit to Vietnam, but his first to Hanoi, and he will be supported by by the growing posse of local standups that make up the ever-morehilarious Hanoi Comedy Collective. The House of Son Tinh is at 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Entrance is VND200,000 (including a free drink) and doors are at 8pm. For more information or to book tables, email dan@highway4.com
Jan Hagenkötter CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Nov. 6 CAMA will be presenting a night of Brazilian beats, Afro, house, electronic, soul and funk on Friday Nov. 6 courtesy of German producer and DJ Jan Hagenkötter. Head honcho of INFRACom and jazznotjazz (home to records by Jazzanova, Osunlade, Glles Peterson, Compost and more), Hagenkötter is
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multiple venues. The organisers expect to see rap battles, B-Boy showdowns and some lightning fast scratches in one area, while some of Vietnam’s heaviest acts will throw down the riffs with some intense heavy metal and hardcore in another. The workshops and performance programme will be growing too; the workshop programme will provide a whole host of experiential activities while mainstays such as yoga, crafts and meditation will be on offer alongside some more unusual classes. And of course, the Son Tinh camp, set against a backdrop of beautiful mountains and surrounded on all sides by a lake is a great place to spend three days in another world. Prices are VND900,000 for the full three-day weekend (VND700,000 for students). VND500,000 per day. Shared camping facilities cost VND120,000 for the weekend. For more information or to book tickets, click on questfestival.net or ticketbox.vn/quest-festival/en
Village de Chefs French Embassy Tuesday, Nov. 10
touring Asia this autumn with his nomadic, eclectic style that elegantly combines electronic and acoustic tracks. Expect a percussion driven, electronic up-tempo sound building into house and interacting with some classic melodies and favourites from the past. Doors are at 8pm and entrance is free of charge. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
On a Monster Quest Son Tinh Camp, Ba Vi National Park Nov. 6 to Nov. 8 The Quest Festival this year will take place from Nov. 6 to Nov. 8 with a diverse programme of over 100 acts such as musicians, DJs, artists, performers, workshops, film features and art installations over
The third edition of the Village de Chefs get-together will be held in Hanoi this month, culminating in a gala dinner at the French Embassy on Tuesday Nov. 10. No less than 25 French chefs and pastry chefs from around the globe will converge for four days of sharing with culinary professionals and students, the community and the press. Three Francophone chefs working in Vietnam will take part — Didier Corlou (Hanoi), David Lacroix (Hoi An) and Sakal Phoeng (Ho Chi Minh City). As part of the event, the chefs will demonstrate their culinary passion and skills to the younger Vietnamese generation including students of Hoa Sua Training School in Hanoi. The best
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student from this school will be chosen to join the fourth edition of Village de Chefs, expected to take place in Benelux in 2017. The gala dinner will include dishes — starters, main courses and desserts — cooked up by the various chefs from around the globe. All dishes will be paired with wine from Cellier d’Asie. The event costs VND700,000 per person, with all proceeds going to Hoa Sua Training School. For further information or to book tickets, call Geoffrey Bouillet on 01216 143367 or email vertical@didiercorlou.vn
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Based on Kyoto CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Nov. 13
The New Born From My Roots album cover by Japanese outfit, Based on Kyoto. The band will play this month at CAMA ATK
Gibbon It All Up will be raising money for The Gibbon Conservation Fund
BeerFest will be taking place at Eden Garden on Sunday, Nov. 15
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CAMA will be hosting four impressive figures of the Japanese underground music scene for one night, for the second time in Hanoi. Based on Kyoto are a Japanese dance music unit consisting of Daichi, a DJ and producer, and Marron, a guitarist for Dubdub on-seng, Dubmarronics and Datenryu. BOK was formed in 2006 to search and create a groove that incorporates a very unique Japanese dynamic with a variety of other musical genres such as house, electro, ambient, dub, soul, jazz and rock. So far they’ve released four 12 inches and LPs, and have performed alongside some of the world’s top EDM artists. Support will come from local looping duo GlitterTROFF. A dub set will be played afterwards together with a disco after party at Le Soleil. Doors are at 8pm and entrance is VND80,000. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
Gibbon It All Up
& Roo Smokehouse. Alternatively, email GibbonItUp@gmail.com
BeerFest Eden Garden, Tay Ho Sunday, Nov. 15 Hanoi’s biggest beer event returns on Sunday Nov. 15, this year taking place at Eden Garden. The multi-faceted event offers local beer — Hanoi Beer, Halida, Tiger, La Rue — as well as international favourites such as Chimay, Peroni, Coopers and Fuller’s. There will be craft beers to taste as well. To soak up the beer, there will be more than 20 restaurants and BBQ stalls with a wide variety of food such as Italian pasta, Spanish paella, Mexican tacos,
Russian shashlik and Indian curry. There is music playing all day and evening, with some breaks for beer games and an evening fireshow. There is also a Kids’ Zone with a wide range of games and activities including a supervised playground, craft workshops and active outside games such as face painting and a cardboard maze. Tickets for Beerfest cost VND150,000 and include one free beer from one of the main sponsors. Children under 12 enter free. Tickets can be reserved by telephone at 01629 264727 or at Clickspace (15, Ngo 76, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi) or online at ticketbox.vn. The number of tickets is limited. Eden Garden is at Ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Sofitel Plaza, Ba Dinh Saturday, Nov. 14 Fauna and Flora International is hosting a fundraiser for The Gibbon Conservation Fund in the middle of November, aided by numerous sponsors. Formal dress is required for this event, which will feature dinner, drinks, dancing, an auction and a raffle. The evening will begin with cocktails sponsored by Son Tinh together with sparkling wine from Bacchus Corner at 6.30pm. A free flow of wine and beer is available from 7.30pm. The event will run from 6.30pm to 11pm at Le Panorama on the 19th Floor of the Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Tickets cost VND1.5 million and further information and tickets can be obtained at Bacchus Corner, House of Son Tinh, VIP Bikes and Moose
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Danish Jazz singer Clara Bryld will be performing with Tri Minh at Manzi Artspace
Beaujolais Nouveau, the first wine of this year’s harvest, will be drunk in large quantities on Thursday Nov. 19 at Pullman Hanoi
Sound artist Jaap Blonk will be bringing his avant-garde talents to CAMA ATK on Nov. 19
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Italian opera L’elisir d’amore will be screened at Hanoi Cinematheque
Fancy some Thanksgiving turkey, anyone? Melia Hotel might just be able to help
Graham Elwood will be the second international comic to perform in Hanoi in November
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Dreaming of Sailing Manzi, Ba Dinh Sunday, Nov. 15 Well-known DJ and pianist, Tri Minh, will be teaming up with renowned Danish jazz singer, Clara Bryld, for an acoustic concert on Sunday, Nov. 15. The show will feature some of Tri Minh’s latest compositions as well as tracks from Clara’s debut album, On Your Wall, which was nominated for a Danish jazz music award. Dreaming of Sailing kicks off at 8pm at Manzi Art Space, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Entrance surcharge is VND250,000 (including one free drink). Due to limited seating capacity, please email manzihanoi@gmail.com before Wednesday, Nov. 11 to reserve seats
KOTO Dream Ride UNIS, Tay Ho Sunday, Nov. 15 KOTO’s annual cycling event to support at-risk and disadvantaged youth through their non-profit vocational programme will take
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place on Sunday Nov. 15. The event kicks off at the United Nations International School (UNIS) in Hanoi. Featuring a ride through the countryside close to the capital, past paddy fields and pagodas, all proceeds will go to support KOTO’s training programmes. Entrance is VND2 million per person with bike rentals costing VND200,000. For further information, click on koto. com.au/dreamride. And to see our article on KOTO, please turn to page 196
Beaujolais Nouveau Pullman Hanoi Thursday, Nov. 19 A Beaujolais Nouveau celebration will take place on Thursday, Nov. 19 from 6pm onwards in the main ballroom of the Pullman Hanoi hotel. Celebrating the first wine produced from this year’s grape harvest — the quality of every year’s Beaujolais Nouveau gives an indication of how the rest of the year’s wines will turn out — apart from the Beaujolais Nouveau, directly imported from
France, several restaurant partners will be providing French culinary delicacies. Food and drinks booths located along the walls will leave space in the middle for picnic tables, and there will be a stage with a dance floor. About 300 guests are expected for this gustatory tour through the Beaujolais region. Tickets go on sale from Nov. 1 at CCIFV, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3715 2229. The early bird price (until Nov. 18) is VND450,000; the regular price is VND600,000.
Jaap Blonk CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Thursday, Nov. 19 Avant-garde musician Jaap Blonk will be giving a solo performance at CAMA ATK on Thursday Nov. 19 together with a workshop on being a sound artist. A self-taught sound artist and visual/stage performer, Blonk studied physics, mathematics and musicology, and it’s the amalgamation of these
performances on Sunday Nov. 22 with Gaetano Donizetti’s opera L’elisir d’amore (The Elixir of Love). A two-act comic opera that remains one of the mostperformed operas around the globe, the opera premiered in 1832 in Milan. The story deftly combines comic archetypes with an ending that is as much a foregone conclusion as it would be in a romantic comedy film today. For information on tickets, email info@hanoioperaguild.com. Hanoi Cinematheque is at 22 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. The screening starts at 7pm
Graham Elwood The House of Son Tinh, Tay Ho Thursday, Nov. 26
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studies that have influenced his craft. His compositions and performances are examples of sound poetry, making use of words and phonetic snippets as well as clicks, hisses and other vocal manipulations. Having worked in collaboration with other avant-garde musicians including John Tchicai, Tristan Honsiger and Mats Gustafsson, as well as with his own ensembles Splinks and BRAAXTAAL, Blonk’s live performances involve humour and improvisation. The event will start with a workshop and will be followed by a performance. Doors are at 8pm and entrance is TBA. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
Old Sounds of New Day Manzi, Ba Dinh Friday, Nov. 20 The monthly series of traditional music concerts hosted by Manzi returns for its fourth rendition
on Friday Nov. 20. In an effort to support traditional values, and to tell a quickly-being-lost story about traditional music in Vietnam, the theme of the fourth encounter in this series will be a poetry singing night. Featuring two masters of traditional Vietnamese music — Xuan Hoach, Thanh Hoai, Binh — also playing will be other talented musicians based in Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm on Friday, Nov. 20 at Manzi, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Entrance surcharge is VND200,000 (including a free drink). Due to limited seating capacity, please email manzihanoi@gmail.com before Tuesday Nov. 17 to reserve seats.
Screening of L’elisir d’amore Hanoi Cinematheque, Hoan Kiem Sunday, Nov. 22 Cinematheque will continue its regular screenings of operatic
Two international comedy shows in one month? You’re having a laugh, right? Well no, we’re not actually, as acclaimed US comic Graham Elwood will be pitching up in Hanoi on Thursday Nov. 26. A serial TV-appearance comic — he’s done everything from The Late Late Show through to The Benson Interruption on Comedy Central — Elwood got into stand-up while at university before moving to LA to further his career. And that he has done, with two documentaries to his name, numerous performances around the world and a period as the host of two game shows — Cram and Strip Poker. So what’s this comedic bigwig doing in Hanoi? Well, he’s here to make you laugh, of course. And together with the Hanoi Comedy Collective, expect a night of giggles, hilarity, sniggles and hysterics. The House of Son Tinh is at 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Entrance is VND200,000. Doors are at 8pm. For more information or to book tables, email dan@ highway4.com
Melia Thanksgiving Buffet Melia Hotel, Hoan Kiem Thursday, Nov. 26 On Thursday Nov. 26, Chef Philip of the El Patio restaurant at Melia Hanoi will be preparing a Western buffet of traditional holiday favourites in celebration of American Thanksgiving. Including traditional roasted turkey, special homemade gravy and all the trimmings, dessert offerings top the list with pumpkin pie, seasonal cookies and an ice cream bar.
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The lunch buffet costs VND690,000++/adult with an unlimited flow of house wine, draught beer, sangria cocktail and soft drinks. Those interested are advised to reserve their place by calling (04) 3934 3343, ext. 7503. The Melia is at 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
HIWC Fundraising Bazaar St. Paul American School Saturday, Nov. 28 HIWC will be holding its 24th Annual Charity Bazaar on Saturday Nov. 28 at St. Paul American School. With the bazaar’s proceeds supporting many important projects in health, education and welfare throughout Vietnam, last year the event attracted over 10,000 visitors with 42 countries and communities sharing their cultural traditions, cuisine, produce and crafts. Hundreds of local businesses displayed their wares, NGOs and social enterprises raised awareness of their work and the bazaar proved to be a fun and family-friendly day out for Hanoi residents. The event raised nearly VND2.7 billion (US$126,450), making it one of the largest fundraisers in Hanoi. Tickets for this year’s event cost VND180,000 on the gate, with discounts available for pre-sale purchases, and for children. Tickets are available from over 10 venues round town. General enquiries can be made at contact@hanoi-iwc. com and ticket-specific information from bazaartickets@hanoi-iwc.com. Alternatively, click on hanoi-iwc. com/annual-charity-bazaar. St Paul American School is at New Urban City – North An Khanh (Splendora), km 10+600, Thang Long Avenue, An Khanh, Hoai Duc, Hanoi
Last year’s HIWC Bazaar brought in 10,000 people
This year’s Song Hong Half Marathon takes place on Dec. 13
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com or call 0946 139973. The JW Marriott is at 8, Du Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi
Song Hong Half Marathon Ciputra, Tay Ho Sunday, Dec. 13 Hanoi's Red River Runners have announced the date for their annual Song Hong half marathon in partnership with Education for Nature Vietnam. This year's event, billed as the Run for Rhinos will highlight ENV's campaign to reduce consumer demand for rhino horn in Vietnam. The race takes place on Sunday Dec.
13, with the start and finish at the Clubhouse, Ciputra’s new(ish) highspec sport and leisure facility. As in previous years, it will be a street-running event taking in a generous section of the Tay Ho lakeside roads in addition to the more sedate confines of Ciputra itself. As well as the half marathon, runners can try their luck at the 10km or 5km races, and there will also be a fun run for the kids. Online registration will open this month and walk-in registration will be available at Spacebar cafe. Check out redriverrunners.com and the Red River Runners Facebook page to keep abreast of all the race details
JW Marriott Hotel, My Dinh Saturday, Nov. 28 The Disciples d’Escoffier Vietnam are hosting a gala six-course dinner on Saturday Nov. 28, with food cooked by five renowned local and international chefs. The hotel’s own Raphael Szurek and Brendon Partridge will be joined in the kitchen by two-star Michelin chef Michel Portos from France, Tran Ngo Lam Khanh from Le Meridien Saigon and Robert Fontana, chairman of the ASEAN Disciples d’Escoffier. The price is VND1.85 million for members and VND2.25 million for non-members. For bookings, email Ms. Tu Tho on info.vietnam@disciples-escoffier-asia.
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overscene hanoi
PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL
Monsoon Music Festival
Set in the confines of the citadel, this year’s Monsoon Festival was four days’ worth of live entertainment from
both Vietnam and overseas, all in the name of delighting the masses. Let’s just say that this one was big. Very big
From out of nowhere, Le Soleil has become the late night venue of choice in the Tay Ho area. Hot, sweaty, and
fuelled by great pizzas from Paolo & Chi, dancing and DJ-spun music goes on here into the early hours.
PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS
changed all that. Without them, what we have now would not have come to pass. 10 years? Bottom’s up, guys! You done great!
Best Trick Jam
Hanoi Creative City played host to a skateboarding festival, with local skaters intermingling with pros from overseas, all in the name of
Nebula Vietnam, a local NGO that promotes life skills to disadvantage youth through skating.
PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL
A decade ago there was no such thing as foreign DJs playing in Hanoi, or bands flying in from overseas to entertain the crowds. CAMA
LE SOLEIL
The Belgian Beer Festival
Not to be outdone by their near neighbours, Germany, the Belgians showed off the reason why their beer is so wellrespected all around the world
— it’s damn good. And strong, too. With the American Club playing host, Belgian fare and music was also part of the fun.
If you have a noteworthy event which you thinkwould fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look. Go to: wordvietnam.com/mediavp/photo-gallery for full viewing access.
PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL
cama turns 10
IN
Just Hanoi
From Spanish chefs to burger joints, coffee roasters and book bargains, here’s what’s new in Hanoi this month
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Miguel Soria Castro, the new chef at La Bicicleta
Two of the burgers on offer at the newly opened Burger Box
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New Chef for Bicicleta Spanish eatery La Bicicleta has brought in chef Miguel Soria Castro to take the helm at its Tay Ho eatery, with the intent of introducing dishes from all over Spain. New highlights on the menu include Soria Castro’s favourite Paella Valencia, either with seafood, chicken or vegetarian style; traditional gazpacho, Spanish-style tomato soup; Andalusian-style deep fried calamari, and the dessert, Crema Catalana. It’s not a new direction for the threeyear-old venue, more a broadening of appeal to attract Hanoi’s international and local market, according to Soria Castro, who has also worked in the US and Norway. “I’m going back to my roots, so to speak,” he says. “It is a pleasure for me that both international and local clients can travel to Spain without leaving Tay Ho.” La Bicicleta is at 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Burger Box at the KAfe The KAfe Group has introduced a new concept in fast dining called The Burger Box, which features a range of seven burgers from the familiar — The Regulator — to the Crispy Drunk Snapper Fish burger and a vegan option called The Lotus Position. There are now two outlets open,
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designed for both take-away and dine-in customers. As in its other cafes, the recipes have been created by executive chef Joel Manton, and will be made from the same fresh and unprocessed ingredients. The two new Burger Box eateries are at 4 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi and 17 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Sofitel Grabs Top Award The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi was the highest rated Vietnamese hotel in Conde Nast’s 2015 Readers Choice Awards, the travel magazine has announced. The Sofitel placed third in the overall Best Hotels in South-East Asia list. It was one of six hotels and resorts in Vietnam rated among the finest properties in all of Asia, according to readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The Nam Hai Resort in Hoi An was the highest rated resort in Vietnam and placed 12th overall in South-East Asia. Both properties are members of the Quintessential Collection Vietnam group of hotels and cruises. More than 128,000 travellers took part in this year’s Readers Choice Awards — the most in its 28-year history, and up more than 50,000 from last year.
Bargain Sundays at Weekend Bookworm Every Sunday until the end of
this calendar year, Weekend Bookworm are running discounts off all their books (except for a few commissioned items). Second-hand books will be discounted by 20% while everything else will come with a price reduction of 15%. Weekend Bookworm is at Ngo 28, Tu Hoa, Tay Ho, right behind the Sheraton Hotel. For more info call (04) 3829 2322
KOK Coffee and Maison de Tet Décor Homegrown coffee-roasting house, KOK, have teamed up with Maison de Tet Décor, to not just offer their coffee at the Tay Ho establishment, but to roast it on-site. Roasting a range of single origin and mixed blend coffees as well the very popular Elemental Blend Range Collection, KOK works to source the best in-season, ethically farmed and traded beans from Vietnam and around the globe. At Maison de Tet Décor, all of KOK’s eight elemental blends are on off to enjoy by the cup or to buy freshly roasted to take home. KOK will also be running coffee workshops where participants can sample coffees from around the world and learn to differentiate between the various aromas and flavours of coffee. Maison de Tet Décor is at 36 Tu Hoa, Tay Ho, Hanoi, very close to The Sheraton
Clean air for your children
Children under 4 are the most affected by air pollution. Breathe Swiss quality clean air in your kindergarten, school and home.
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Insider
Forever Wild? / Nature's Design / Factory Love / Til Death Do Us Part / The Circus / The Best Pizza in Hanoi / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Street Snacker Hanoi / Mystery Diner HCMC / Street Snacker HCMC / Con Dao / Destination Zero / The Motorbike Diaries Photo by Kyle Phanroy 54 | Word November 2015 | wordvietnam.com
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“In the city so much noise means so little but in the savannah, so little noise can mean so much�
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INSIDER
NATIONAL
Forever Wild? A recent competition sent 22 Vietnam-based students to South Africa to witness first hand the trials and tribulations of the rhino. Words by Emma Hamilton. Photos provided by The Wilderness Foundation
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“W
e are leaving civilisation as we know it to visit our neighbours, the animals.” With these words from Zondi, a ranger for the Wilderness Leadership School in South Africa (a sister organisation of the Wilderness Foundation Africa), a group of students from Vietnam including myself embarked on an African safari unlike any other. In 2014, Vietnamese celebrities Thanh Bui and Thu Minh visited a number of international schools in Ho Chi Minh City. They are spearheading a campaign to educate young people in Vietnam that the rhinoceros is dangerously close to extinction in Africa because consumers in Vietnam and China continue to believe that their horns hold medicinal properties. The matter is a complex one and involves not just changing beliefs in Far Eastern communities, but addressing the welfare state in Africa that almost encourages the poor to poach. Thanh Bui and the South African Wilderness Foundation are at pains to promote the idea that Vietnamese people can play their part, by saying: “Vietnam can help save the rhino.”
The Competition During Thanh Bui’s school visits, students were asked to write essays explaining how they would encourage their families and friends to say no to rhino horn. Thousands of entries flooded in and 22 students were chosen from schools in Ho Chi Minh City to visit South Africa on a five-day wilderness trail and workshop, designed to help them understand the beauty of the rhino and the importance of keeping the species alive. I was invited to accompany two of my winning students on the trip and see for myself what life is like for the wild animals of the Hluhluwe Umfolozi game reserve situated outside Durban on the east coast of South Africa. The game reserve is a two-and-a-half hour drive away from Durban city centre and is famous for being the location of the genetic origin for every single white rhino in South Africa today. Unlike a normal safari involving the observation of ‘the big five’ (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, rhino) from the safety of a jeep, the students and myself were told we would be walking through the park carrying everything we needed to survive in the wild for five days and nothing more — mobile phones, tablets, laptops, books, iPods and all other 21st century conveniences had to be left behind at base camp, the Stainbank Nature Reserve in Durban city centre.
Into the Wild With some trepidation, we left Durban and headed out into the savannah. The group started out near the main gate of the reserve walking silently in single file, our backs burdened by the enormous packs that held camping equipment and food for the trip. To begin with it was much like a pleasant walk until the two rangers who were
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accompanying us, Zondi and Janet, stopped suddenly, asked us to put down our packs and follow them to an earth bank. In the barren riverbed below a group of lionesses were tearing a wildebeest to shreds. It was strangely beautiful in its viciousness but then one of them spotted us and began prowling towards where we were standing. It was only when she opened her mouth with a heavy and guttural roar to warn us off that I understood this was for real and not a walk in an amusement park looking at semitame animals. We were intruding on their territory and they would attack us without a moment’s hesitation. Zondi told us to not move, and keep our eyes down until the lioness disappeared; wild cats, like domestic ones, enjoy chasing moving objects. The seconds passed like hours until Zondi told us it was safe to move back, pick up our packs and continue walking in single file. From that moment on, I realised we were visiting another world,
one which co-exists parallel to ours but which we barely notice; the world of the animals.
The Night Watch After walking for another hour we stopped to set up camp for the first time. The Wilderness Leadership School practices no-trace camping and we were given a number of jobs to do. I was in the group collecting water and as the sun began to set we followed Janet to the riverbed again. There was a pool not far from our camp but as we filled plastic bags we became aware that we were being watched. Hippos. Janet urged us to be quick to avoid angering them. Hippos, for all their ungainly physiques, are extremely aggressive and territorial, and can run at speeds of up to 19mph on land. Thoroughly unnerved, and not looking forward to sleeping out in the open, we returned and were then introduced to the concept of the night watch. To keep each other safe during the hours
for ‘business’) and sit in a circle to share knowledge and thoughts. The delicate interwoven structure of the savannah was brought strongly into focus. For example, there is a species of butterfly that can only live off the moisture found in elephant dung. Poach all the elephants and the butterfly will die too. It is possible therefore, that if the rhino becomes extinct, something else will suffer along with it and contribute to the ongoing tragic demise of many species. I was in the group that Thanh Bui joined later in the week. For all his celebrity status in Vietnam, out there on trail he was like one of us, scouring his skin with riverbed sand in order to stay clean, washing dishes and sitting around the fire singing songs with the students to pass the time once night fell. Being on a trail makes you realise that you can get by with less; when everything else is gone, all you need is somewhere safe to sleep and food to eat. Status and wealth become meaningless. There is no need to (literally) deface a rhino in order to keep our man-made idea of face in society. All too soon, we had to leave the wilderness and head back to Durban, but inspired by what we had experienced, the group reconvened at the Stainbank Nature Reserve and set to work.
A Force for Change
“As much as we had enjoyed our experience…, this was no ordinary holiday and we were being pushed to show how we would spread the message that people need to ‘Say No to Rhino Horn’” of darkness we were to assign ourselves numbers and take turns, for an hour-anda-half each, to sit by the fire and every five minutes cast the light of the torch around the camp to ensure no predators were trying to intrude. It was terrifying; I have never felt isolation like it. I was number three and so was woken up roughly around midnight to sit alone by the fire and keep watch. To sit apart from your sleeping companions with only the light of a small fire and the sheen of the Milky Way is both inspirational and hard. To help pass
the time, Zondi and Janet had left a journal by the fire so that people could record their thoughts and feelings. One of the students summed up the experience by noting that: “In the city so much noise means so little but in the savannah, so little noise can mean so much.”
The Trappings of Society During the following four days, we were all struck, not just by the beauty of nature but its power and how insignificant we are. We would regularly hold indaba (Zulu
“Consider the weight and responsibility on your shoulders,” we were told by the group of South Africans leading the workshop at the end of the trail. They included Cheryl Reynolds and Matthew Norval, both from the Wilderness Foundation, as well as a number of people battling the problem at the frontline such as rangers and vets. As much as we had enjoyed our experience and had come back moved by the beauty of the savannah, this was no ordinary holiday and we were being pushed to show how we would spread the message that people need to “Say No to Rhino Horn”. The workshop highlighted that rhino poaching is a human tragedy too. For every adult poacher involved in a cartel whose bail is paid after being caught, there is usually a poor 15-year-old from the shanty towns left to rot in jail. For every poacher that has been caught, there is potentially a ranger who has been shot dead or injured. Cathy Dao, from the Canadian International School (CIS), made the point: “All life is invaluable and magnificent and it is our duty to protect these wonderful rhinos so our children will be able to see rhinos thriving in the wild with their own eyes, not through faded pictures nor works of fiction.” We left South Africa proud to be representing a change in Vietnamese culture. This is an exciting time to be in Vietnam and there is a real sense of the cause gaining momentum; change is afoot and that can only be for the good. “The wilderness is not a place but a season and we are in its final hour.” Vietnam — will you be the hero? Emma Hamilton is the Head of English for the ABCIS International School, Ho Chi Minh City
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Insider
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INSIDER
NATIONAL
With the environment under pressure, one Vietnam-based entrepreneur working in the lumber industry has found an alternative — reclaimed wood. But this is not just any old wood. Words and photos by Nick Ross
Nature’s Design “T
here are a lot of types of liveedge wood around Southeast Asia,” says Canadian lumberjack and rough framer, Justin Ephraim. “This is not a new thing. But this is something different. This is something unique. This has an amazing story.” We are sitting in Justin’s car on our way to his warehouse in Binh Duong, 45 minutes outside of Ho Chi Minh City. It’s this story that has brought me here, to see for myself
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“The word ‘reclaim’ is key — this is wood that was already dead before it was logged. Long dead. 100 years dead” the wood that Justin has reclaimed from a submerged forest in Central America. The word ‘reclaim’ is key — this is wood that was already dead before it was logged. Long dead. One hundred years dead. As Justin explains, the area where the wood has been logged was flooded to make a reservoir in 1913: “At the time it was cheaper to flood the valley rather than cut down the forest first.” Now, a century later, with the cooperation of the local Native American tribe, the wood is being logged. “The logging concessions in this lake are enormous and the lake is about 120 metres to 140 metres deep,” he continues. “Hundreds of kilometers. Just picture a vast forest underwater. There are quite a few different species and we’re finding new ones every day.”
A Different Feel In the warehouse I see the products for myself — slab after enormous slab of wood, all with their bark-like edges intact — that is, live-edge wood. I run my fingers along the edges and examine the grains. There’s something very satisfying about being in contact with wood of this quality. I imagine a
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worktable at home, or maybe a wooden bar. I’ve only just arrived at the warehouse and I’m already sold. Some of the wood has already been treated — Justin is doing as much of the sanding and varnishing as possible by hand — some is halfway finished. A lot more remains untouched. But most striking is not just the species available — white mahogany, Central American walnut, amargo, tiger wood and dragon wood are new to Vietnam — but the way the wood has weathered in its century under water. “I flew there to look for myself to see what it’s like,” says Justin. “You’re on this lake and you see these branches sticking out of the water. The divers are going down there with scuba tanks and freshwater chainsaws fueled with vegetable oil so as not to disturb the natural environment. They’ll be down there for sometimes two hours cutting down trees. It’s very labour-intensive and it’s very dangerous. They’re cutting at perhaps 80 metres underwater, in pure blackness.” He adds: “Being submerged in fresh water has changed the grains and the characteristics of the wood itself. It’s a little bit harder, but you can see in the grains,
especially on the outer bark, the weathering, bits where underwater worms have eaten away at the wood.”
Obsession As we head back to Ho Chi Minh City I talk to Justin about my brother-in-law — another person obsessed by wood. We make an appointment to return to the warehouse the following week, my lumber-loving in-law in tow. But for Justin this is more than just an obsession. This is his life. It was the 2008 crash in the Canadian lumber market that brought him and his Canadian-Vietnamese wife to Vietnam. They came here searching for opportunities — it was only on arrival that they realised how much Vietnam loves its wood. Yet from the whole trip, one phrase of Justin’s sticks in my mind. “It’s nature’s design.” It truly is. Nature has responded to the influence of man — it has made this underwater wood into something rare, attractive and most importantly, different. For more information on Justin’s reclaimed wood programme, go to reduxwood.com
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Insider INSIDER
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Factory Love It’s often in the most unexpected places that you find love. One manufacturer in Vietnam, the Binh Duong-based Saigon River Factory, has seen this first-hand, with a number of their staff getting married after meeting on the factory floor. Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy. Photos by Nick Ross
“I
f you don’t have money, don’t even dream about having a girlfriend and completely forget about getting married,” said Tri, a taxi driver, when I was in his cab one day. He’s not alone; many young Vietnamese men also have to put love on hold because of their financial situation. However, fairy stories can always happen in the most mundane of lives and the toughest conditions. Ordinary furniture workers at the Saigon River Factory Vietnam have found love in their workplace and have nurtured it as best they can. They feed their love by sharing their daily ups and downs, their sadness and happiness. And, like the emotions experienced by the well-off, their love has many shades and tones.
Love at First Sight Khanh and Phien are a strange but interesting couple. The wife, Phien, seems more open and ready to share their love and family stories while Khanh, as a man, doesn’t seem to talk too much. They met each other for the first time in 2008 at Saigon River Factory. Cupid’s arrow struck Khanh right away, but it took him nearly a year, and the help of a friend, to enable him to reveal his true feelings to Phien. Having waited for so long, Phien said yes right away when he asked if she would be his girlfriend. “People usually know if someone has feelings for them,” she explains with a blush.
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They spent three more years getting to know one another more and strengthening their relationship. They didn’t have much time together socially (due to Phien’s strict father) but they had lots of dating-time memories at work. They finally tied the knot in 2011 and their first child came along in 2013. Although still living in rented accommodation, their burden became lighter when Khanh’s parents moved to Binh Duong to help with childcare. “Our savings were more than enough before the marriage,” says Phien. “Now, it’s just enough because, you know, kids often get sick.” The couple — who never seem to be able to stay mad at each other for a long time — still have a dream of owning a plantation in the Mekong Delta where they are both from, even though neither of them has ever touched a hoe. One of their dreams is also a new addition to the family, although only “if our financial situation allows it,” says Khanh.
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Opposites Attract Compared to Khanh, Dieu is open and talkative. He met his wife, Tu, in 2004 when he started working at the factory. After seven years of getting to know one another and eventually falling in love, the couple, especially Dieu, seems satisfied with the happy ending despite such a long wait. “I was so sure of my feelings towards her,” he says. “After two years of dating, I wanted to marry her, but I wasn’t sure how she felt.” Their story started out as one of mutual dislike. She was tomboyish, with a man’s haircut and an active, go-getter personality; he was more passive and always took care of his appearance. But love always finds a way. “In 2004 when the company was new and there were not many workers,” says Dieu while looking at his wife, “we had to work together and many opportunities to talk. After a while, she became like my little sister.” That ‘sister’ position quickly changed into ‘girlfriend’ after Tu helped him mend a broken heart from a previous relationship. Now they have been married over three years. But although both of them are over 30, they haven’t thought about having children. “We know we are not young anymore,” Tu explains. “But we need to get everything prepared before having kids.” One of the advantages that Dieu has, compared to other workers, is that he comes from Binh Duong, where the factory is. Finances are less onerous since they do not need to rent. Going forward, they also have dreams where Dieu has his own business and Tu becomes a mother while also taking care of the kids and running a convenience store.
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“Their story started out as one of mutual dislike. She was tomboyish, with a man’s haircut and an active, go-getter personality; he was more passive and always took care of his appearance. But love always finds a way”
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Love Hurts With his occasional loud and silly laughter, it could be easy to cast judgment on Dinh. But this was not always the case. One of the first staff members at Saigon River Factory, Dinh was one of those people who excelled at everything he did. He was a key factor in the growth of the company, and over the years his remuneration came to reflect his importance. Then everything went wrong. In 2013 he came down with Japanese encephalitis and suffered a brain hemorrhage. Now this man from Central Vietnam knows he will never get his previous normality — or his wife — back. “She has a boyfriend now,” he says quietly. Describing his wife, Thao, as “a beautiful girl with long hair and fair skin”, his eyes sparkle when he recalls the day he met her, near where his rented house was located. But after three years of dating, eight years of marriage, a fiveyear-old child and a property he bought from savings in Binh Duong, she still needed something else. “She gets home from work every day around 10pm,” he adds. After recovering, Dinh went back to his family in Quang Nam to recuperate for a year. His wife cared for him for two months, but after that, he was neglected. Driven to the edge, he jumped off a bridge, which caused him further damage — this time to his wrist. “Don’t worry,” he says while rubbing his wrist. “The doctor said an operation could solve the problem.” Understanding his situation and remembering his ability, Peter Arts, the founder of Saigon River Factory, encouraged Dinh to come back to work after his recovery was complete. “Peter said you are a super star!” I tell him. Except for a slight smile, his face doesn’t show any expression. I ask him about his plans for the future. “I don’t know. Maybe just live like this. Future? I have no idea about it.”
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Saigon River Factory Founded in 2000 by Peter Arts and Hedwig Pira, Saigon River Factory specialises in the design and production of home decorations, furniture and tile collections. Located in Binh Duong, the company has 100 workers and 15 staff, most of whom have been with the company since the beginning. No less than eight worker couples have found love while working in the factory, and the company prides itself on operating as a family where workers are brothers and sisters, cousins and neighbours. To maintain the family environment as well as to ensure its duty to care for its staff, Saigon River Factory guarantees that the number of workers will never exceed 150 people. “When they are happy, they will introduce their family or friends to work with us,” says the company’s head of sales and marketing, Nico Greeve. “Everyone seems to know each other, or is happy to connect with the little social ecosystem. I guess romance is inevitable.” For more info visit saigonrivershop.com
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Cover Story
Til Death Do Us Part
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he first recorded marriage was 4,350 years ago. By that time, wedding bands were already in use, as were dowries. The ancient Egyptians are thought to have started using rings in 2800BC, while the first written record of a ‘marriage payment’ was 200 years earlier. Yet it wasn’t until 1840 that the white wedding dress was popularized. We can blame one of the world’s longest reigning monarchs, Queen Victoria, for that one. She wore a white wedding gown on her marriage to Albert. For the sake of statistics, when this early form of globalisation made its way to Vietnam has not been recorded. It was probably during the colonial era, somewhere between 1860 and 1945. Dowries may well have been much earlier. In the process, Vietnamese tradition has merged with that of the West. Brides now wear not one, but often two or even three dresses on their big day — the white gown is equally as important as the traditional
Chinese dress. The exchanging of rings is part of the ceremony between the two families. And as for the ‘bride price’, fortunately for the family of the bride, it's not so fashionable these days. As the baby boomer generation reaches marrying age and beyond, so the wedding industry in Vietnam has snowballed. And with this being the wedding season, we decided to take a look behind the scenes. If you’re expecting something soppy, romantic and lovey-dovey, think again. Weddings are wonderful occasions, and with the exception of funerals, are possibly the only ceremonies universally practiced on this planet. But there’s another side to getting married. It’s what happens not only on the big day, but after. Unfortunately for the sake of the historical record, what the earliest brides and grooms thought of all this, we’ll never know. Photos by Kyle Phanroy, Jesse Meadows, Vu Ha Kim Vy and Owen Salisbury
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There’s No Price Tag on Happiness The wedding industry in Vietnam is booming. Owen Salisbury delves into the costs of putting on that dream wedding. He comes out the other end in a sweat
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ou’ve seen them: ranks of uniformed young Vietnamese men, flanking red carpets alongside a phalanx of young Vietnamese women in prom gowns. A white building towers behind them, columned and bearing a glittering gold sign. Yet another Vietnamese wedding, another link in an exploding multimillion-dollar industry that is all gleaming dreams in front, all sweat and duct tape in back. Inside, count the half-dozen photographers, the videographer, event staff,
venue staff. Watch bridesmaids practice their dance routine. Watch people stuff envelopes into a mirror-fronted box that could hide a mastiff. Most expats have been to at least one Vietnamese wedding. You’ve probably wondered at some of the details — the dancing bridesmaids, the red sparkling wine, the terrible karaoke, the brevity of the event. Yet as a countrywide industry, planned weddings arranged by professionals like Royal Swans or Bliss Wedding Planners are only a couple of decades old. For most of the country — outside
the middle and upper classes and the aspirational not-quite-poor — weddings are still put on by extended family because most workers, at an average annual salary of around VND40 million, cannot afford a planned one. As the country grows in prosperity, of course, that will change — to the joy of the wedding industry professionals.
At a Cost
I sat down with Nguyen Thi My Dung, who, after years as an event planner, founded Royal Swans, Ltd., to talk about weddings.
“We love life, not because we are used to living but because we are used to loving.” — Friedrich Nietzsche wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 73
Full disclosure: she’s also my long-time girlfriend. The following breakdown is based on her years of experience, corroborated by other sources. Read prices as including “... and up” because, we all know, there’s always someone who wants diamonds instead of cut glass. In Dung’s experience, planned weddings cost from VND200 million up to VND1 billion, all in. Costs vary according to food, decorations, photography and videography, and much more. The list of costs associated with weddings is long, which is why Vietnamese couples, like their counterparts around the world, may begin planning 12 months before the happy event. Bear in mind, these prices are for average clients. Like everywhere else, celebrity weddings and the weddings of the stratospheric class are in a different price universe altogether.
The Breakdown
Let’s start with that white-columned temple
to romance. Interestingly, the venue itself is often free, as venues make their profit from food; the hotpot, beer and chicken with sticky rice served at nearly every wedding. Costs might be per guest or per table, but VND3 million to VND6 million per table is fairly standard. Reception lines (PGs or P-Boys in industry slang) may be free, or cost VND100,000 to VND200,000 per head. Drinks come in two forms: two hours of free-flowing beer and soft drinks cost about VND100,000 to VND300,000 per person. If your guests don’t drink much, or you plan on kicking them out before they get drunk, arrange per-drink charges — venues charge as little as VND15,000 per beer or soda. Oh, and those bottles of wine poured into the pyramid of champagne coupes? A gift from the venue, typically red (or reddish) to wish the couple luck. Don’t expect Dom Perignon — it’s usually cheap Hungarian sparkling rosé. The real expenses come elsewhere. Want nice wedding photographs? Vietnamese wedding photographs come in two varieties. First, the pre-wedding; the couple doing
cute things around the city (or world), which runs anywhere from VND10 million to VND25 million, depending on the reputation of the photographer or studio. Second, the ‘journalistic’ photos, taken at the event itself, which cost from VND3 million to VND20 million. Again, reputation determines price. The upper echelon of wedding photographers costs up to VND100 million. What about nice wedding videos? The same conditions apply as with photographers — there’s the pre-wedding video, and the guy dodging drunken guests and trying not to trip over children at the event itself. There again, for the pre-wedding version, the cost might run from VND10 million to 25 million, with videography at the event costing about the same. Decor can cost VND10 million to VND200 million, with a rough average of VND50 million. From here it gets even more complicated — do you want music? The venue can provide, or you can hire a DJ (VND5 million) or a band (VND10 million, perhaps double if they provide dancers.)
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“Love is the greatest refreshment in life.” — Pablo Picasso
Does the bride want two, three or four dresses? That’s VND7 million each to buy, and VND1 million to VND6 million to hire. Hair and makeup? Anywhere from VND800,000 for an unknown artist using cheap cosmetics to as much as VND10 million for a famous artiste applying Chanel. And the groom? His suits are cheaper, costing around VND3 million. But he must spring for rings — VND2.5 million to VND20 million. Each.
Vestiges of Tradition
None of this includes the traditional ceremony, which costs an average of VND3 million (and which has a specialised subsection of the wedding industry devoted to it) and can rise to as much as VND50 million. These ceremonies are interesting in themselves; people always bring strictly ritualized, predetermined gifts in groups of five, six or nine to conform to Feng Shui principles (five for born together, six for get old together, nine for dying together, avoiding the ill-luck of the getting sick part of the cycle.) If a couple lacks enough friends or family to carry the gifts from the bride’s parents’ house to the groom’s parents’ house, PGs and P-Boys can be hired. This is perhaps the most authentic part of Vietnamese wedding tradition left; most of the modern craze for planned weddings seems to be a cultural import, albeit with a Vietnamese twist.
Profitable Practice
Guest lists vary widely, but over 300 isn’t unusual, sometimes up to 1,200. Guests bring lucky money to help the couple get a start in life, and the average amount per
guest goes from VND500,000 upwards. Apparently, somewhere between 80 and 90 percent of couples marrying expect to make a profit from the wedding. That’s not their sole or even main reason for tying the knot, of course, meaning merely that they’ve budgeted less than the lucky money they hope to receive. Like in the West — traditionally, anyway — parents pay for weddings, but expect to be at least partly paid back via lucky money. What’s with lucky money, anyway? What happened to a nice old-fashioned punch bowl, blender, or gravy boat? Lucky money is a relatively recent innovation that probably took hold around the same time the modern wedding industry took off. In former, less prosperous times, gifts made more sense. People donated time to prepare the wedding, and bought gifts to help the new couple prepare a new household. What changed? Partly convenience, and partly the costs of a planned wedding. What good is a gravy boat to a couple that’s just spent VND200 million on a wedding? Also, lacking wedding registries, newlyweds could end up with six or seven punch bowls, and who needs that? Everybody, however, needs cash.
High Stakes
That’s one bit to remember; everyone involved has a financial stake. Planners, photographers, dressmakers, even the blushing bride and grinning groom. So let’s not forget the romance, the toasts of happiness, the vows of joy ... but let’s remember that we’re examining an industry, and an expensive one at that.
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The Stages of a Vietnamese Wedding
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hile the traditional Vietnamese wedding is one of the most important ceremonies in Vietnamese culture, it has many different versions, depending on region, religion and of course finance. “Every family has different ways of organising a wedding,” says my colleague, Hoa. “The point is how to harmonise the styles of the two families.” Hoa’s wedding took place last year in Hanoi with around 500 guests coming to the party (read more about her wedding experience on page 88). Weddings are also regarded (mostly by the older generation) as a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. The traditions of the various ceremonies are maintained with the aim of ensuring that the newlyweds will be happy for the rest of their lives.
Getting married in Vietnam has two parts. The paperwork — all marriages are regarded as civil weddings — and the actual wedding itself. Despite the glitz, bling and razzmatazz of the receptions, most weddings still maintain a sense of tradition. The Basic Stages matter where a traditional wedding takes Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy No place, it will have some basic traditional stages. These include: Cham ngo or dam ngo (matchmaking). This is the first meeting of the couple’s families and is regarded as a necessary formality. The couple’s parents to get to
know each other and consider the possibility of their children’s marriage. An hoi (engagement). At this stage, the groom’s family has to bring gifts to the bride’s house. The gifts include the likes of betel leaves, areca nuts, green rice cakes, candied lotus seeds, rice wine, tea, cigarettes, phu the (husband and wife) cakes, fruits, a roasted piglet and money — all placed in elaborately decorated boxes, covered in red cloth. The number of boxes depends on the groom’s financial circumstances and the region where they live. These boxes will be carried by a team of single men from the groom’s house to the bride’s house and handed over to another group of single women at the door. These single men and women are normally the couple’s closest friends. The an hoi usually ends up with lunch at the bride’s house. Ruoc dau (receiving the bride at her house). The number of the boxes brought during the an hoi vary. However, jewellery including wedding rings, earrings, a bracelet and a necklace is a must. The procession of the groom’s family is carried out in a specific order. The first person is a representative of the groom’s house, followed by the groom’s
How Much Should You Give as a Wedding Gift? Guests are normally expected to bring gifts, and it is traditionally in the form of money in an envelope. Depending on how close you are to the couple, the amount of the money could range
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from a few hundred thousand to a few million dong. It’s also decided based on the scale of the business you have with the couple. In the old days, the bride and groom
would go from table to table to thank guests for their blessings and collect the envelopes. Most couples nowadays leave a box at the sign-in table for guests to drop in the envelopes.
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father, then the rest of his family and close friends. Members of the procession are introduced to the bride’s family, and the bride’s family introduces its members to the procession. The groom presents his gifts to the bride’s family, and he is given permission to greet the bride, who is finally brought out. Then the couple stands in front of the bride’s ancestor altar. They will burn incense sticks, asking for permission from the ancestors to bless them. The couple turns and bows to their parents, gives thanks for raising and protecting them. The bride and groom then bow to each other. The jewellery will be given to the bride and wedding rings will be exchanged between the bride and groom. Don dau (bringing the bride to the groom’s house). As the procession arrives back at the groom’s house, the newlyweds will be brought to the groom’s ancestor altar, where another ceremony takes place and the bride is introduced to the groom’s relatives. Tiec cuoi (the reception for the couple’s family and friends). This is the final stage that most of us have been invited to. Taking place either at a restaurant or the groom’s house, it will have a lot of guests, food and beer, and music. All you do is enjoy it and
say “1,2,3, Dzoooooo!” to those who sit at the same table.
North vs. South
The first difference between the north of Vietnam and the south is the number of boxes brought to the bride’s house. While people from the north believe odd numbers stand for good luck, southerners prefer even numbers. As each region has its distinct characteristics and specialities, what’s inside the boxes as well as the proceedings are different. After the wedding, northerners have one more formality, called lai mat, in which the newlyweds will go back to the bride’s house with gifts. Then, the bride’s parents will officially visit their family-inlaw because the bride’s mother stayed at home when the bride was brought to the groom’s house. The lai mat usually takes place on Mondays or Wednesdays. Meanwhile, the south focuses on le len den, meaning lighting the candles. In the ruoc dau, two big candles will be brought to the bride’s house. The couple will bring flame from the oil lamp on the altar to light up the candles, and then place them on a pair of candleholders. This is regarded as the
official announcement of the marriage and represents the strong connection between the bride and groom.
Modern Infusions Although most Vietnamese are Buddhists and a significant number are Catholic, the traditional Vietnamese wedding doesn’t change. Vietnamese Catholics still incorporate all parts of the wedding ceremony as well as the reception. The only difference lies in the exchange of wedding rings, which takes place at a church under God’s witness and blessing. Most current-day Vietnamese weddings are combinations of both Western and Vietnamese styles. One of the new elements sees the bride wearing both a Western wedding gown and an ao dai at different stages of the wedding and the reception. While the first stage, cham ngo, tends to be skipped, the proceedings of the an hoi have become simpler, and are now styled as a Western engagement ceremony. Sometimes, the an hoi and the last two stages — ruoc dau and don dau — are carried out together on the same day. Thus, the actual wedding day may only include the Buddhist or Church ceremony and a large reception.
“Love and compassion are necessities, not luxuries. Without them humanity cannot survive.” — Dalai Lama 78 | Word November 2015 | wordvietnam.com
The Pioneers of the Wedding Industry Modern-day weddings really are just that — a phenomenon of the present age. And the people responsible for that phenomenon? Twin brothers, Phu and Quy
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f you know anything about weddings and convention centres in Saigon, then you’ll have heard about Sinh Doi, White Palace and Gem Centre, the work of twin brothers, Nguyen Huu Phu and Nguyen Huu Quy. Credited with having a huge role in the creation of today’s booming wedding industry, we spoke to their marketing communications manager, Nguyen Thi Quynh Dao, to get some background. What is the story behind White Palace, Sinh Doi and Gem Center? Sinh Doi Wedding Centre was established in 1997 and achieved a lot of success as a pioneer of stylish Ho Chi Minh City weddings. In 2007 we launched the White Palace Convention Centre. At the time it was the largest venue for top-end banquet and conference services in town. The centre has hosted many celebrity weddings as well as events organised by multinationals such as Martell, Honda, Toyota, DKSH, GSK, Unilever, Abbott and much more. Then in November 2014 we launched GEM Center, the largest top-end venue for corporate events in central Ho Chi Minh City. How did Phu and Quy get into the wedding industry? In the 1990s, most weddings were organised by the families of the bride and groom with in-house catering services. The chefs were
not professional and the food options were limited. The wedding ceremonies were simple, most of them were very traditional. Anticipating a potential market for weddings, Phu and Quy established Sinh Doi Wedding Centre on Ly Thai To in District 3. The venue offered a whole new and different set of wedding services and quickly became very popular. They were visionaries. How has the wedding industry expanded in Ho Chi Minh City in the last 10 years? The wedding industry in Ho Chi Minh City is growing rapidly and now there is really strong competition. After the success of Sinh Doi, many new venues joined the playground. One example of the change is what happened after we established White Palace. We created the first place in town with spacious, high ceilings and ballrooms without pillars. Since then, many new wedding and convention centres have been built using the same concept — Grand Palace, Riverside Palace, Merperle Crystal Palace, Diamond Place, Claris Palace, Him Lam Palace, Adora, Gala Royal and many more. How have weddings changed? The customer's demands have changed since now they are used to professional weddings. In the
past, they only focused on the food and beverage, with the wedding ceremony dependent on each individual restaurant. Now they are much more picky and they focus on the whole experience. For example, the wedding ballroom, the decorations, the food, which must not only taste good but must be beautifully presented. Wedding programmes tend to be self-designed now to enable couples to have a unique wedding. Today the trend is for weddings to be different, unique and personalised. How many weddings does your company host every day? Weddings are usually held only on weekends. We host seven to eight weddings per week in the low season, 13 to 14 weddings per week in the high season. The average number of guests is 300 to 450. The minimum is 100 and the maximum is 1,200. This interview has been edited and abridged
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Wedding Magic To act out those once-in-a-lifetime wedding day fantasies, many couples ask for help. Cue, centre stage, the wedding planners. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
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I
magine the work that goes into creating a film set. That is exactly what Bliss Wedding Planners aim to do for the weddings they work on. They create a personalised set, a set on which the lucky couple can act out their ‘in wedded bliss’ fantasies. But this is not Hollywood — although with some of the glitz and glamour on show you could be fooled into thinking otherwise — this is an East-meets-West styled wedding between two people in Vietnam. In mid-October our photographer Kyle Phanroy spent a day with Bliss staff as they prepared for a wedding at the InterContinental Asiana Saigon. The setup started with the stage and main wall installation, before moving to the ceiling to attach the decorative drapes and then back to ground level to do the table set-up. “There were a lot of things going on at the same time in different portions of the wedding area,” says Kyle. “They built geometric shapes for art installations in the main entrance area, as well as for a hanging installation above the bridal walk portion of the stage. There was a wedding photo viewing area with large glass diamonds filled with flowers, and covering the floor was a pure-white fake lambskin carpet.” Spray-painted flower bouquets were set up throughout the dining area and around the event area, and with the clock ticking and the main space now laid out, then came the next stage: testing the sound and lighting systems. “I was constantly walking around, so I missed some stuff,” says Kyle. “Yet it seemed that every time I entered another room, it was constantly evolving. What amazed me was the speed at which things seemed to come together. It was lightning fast.” For more information on Bliss Wedding Planners, click on blissvn.com
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When Two Weddings Become One
Despite being a mixed Viet Kieu, Czech wedding, when Maia and Marek got married in Hanoi, they kept with tradition. Words and photos by Jesse Meadows
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met Maia and Marek when I first got to Hanoi. Maia is Vietnamese, but grew up in the Czech Republic. She met Marek, originally from Brno, in university, and they had since moved to Hanoi together to work as architects. In a globalised world, geographic boundaries are quickly becoming obsolete, and love is no exception to this rule. Around 4 million Vietnamese live overseas, and many are returning to the home front with a foreign partner. Maia
and Marek asked me to photograph their wedding, because they had seen the cheesy stuff, and they didn’t want that. They just wanted documentation. So what happens when you combine two cultures that have vastly different marriage customs?
The Vietnamese Part
On the day, I arrived too early, so Maia’s family took turns posing with me in front of a massive purple-and-white flower arrangement while I waited for
“Kindness in words creates confidence. Kindness in thinking creates profoundness. Kindness in giving creates love.” — Lao Tzu
the flustered bride to arrive. “I’m so sorry,” she apologised as she rushed us upstairs to start the make-up process. She was fielding phone calls left and right, organising bridesmaid meet-ups in the Old Quarter while the make-up artist painted her face. Maia had planned the whole thing herself, even down to the tiny dried flowers she had found at the late night market and attached to her invitations. Someone brought up boiled chicken and fried rice and we sat around on the floor shovelling the food into our mouths. Soon the room filled with
a flurry of family members, and Mai’s bridesmaids arrived in bright red ao dais. Lee, her South African best friend, burst into the room in a ball of energy, laughing as she recounted a dangerous mishap on the way there involving the tail of her dress and a motorbike wheel. She could tell Mai was stressing, so she assumed her bridesmaid responsibilities by confiscating her phone and putting a shot of rice wine in her hand. It was time for everyone to take their places. The maids in red lined up outside the house, waiting to receive offerings from their
male counterparts in blue. The wedding procession, led by Marek’s parents, came around the corner carrying mountains of red and gold gifts. They met the maids-in-waiting and together carried the offerings inside to an altar, around which Maia’s family were sat with tea. Marek went around shaking everyone’s hands, throwing his huge, infectious smile around the room, before ascending the stairs to fetch his bride. We all stood around in the living room, waiting as they prayed together upstairs, cheering as they descended arm-in-arm.
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One by one, the family bestowed gifts on the couple, in between speeches narrated both in Vietnamese and Czech. Then as soon as it began, it was over, and I jumped on my motorbike to follow the newlyweds’ deckedout Mercedes to the next venue.
Contemporary vs. Tradition
The sun was low when we pulled into the spot, a gorgeous event hall in a sprawling garden, with a hazy view of Hanoi’s skyline across the river. Maia chose this venue for its architectural integrity (she hunted for this location for weeks, the architect in her unsatisfied with the structure of typical wedding halls.) The building’s modern, sleek lines and rustic palm-frond roof were emblematic of the marriage between new and old, contemporary and traditional, that this day represented. Friends and family slowly filtered in, chattering around the
cake table. I chugged a beer for my sanity (shooting these events is hard work) and it was time for the wedding, round two. Maia and Marek walked up the aisle together to applause, and took their places at the front of the crowd with their parents on either side. This time the speeches were in English; the crowd a colourful mix of international friends. The light turned from orange to purple while the new couple placed rings on each other’s fingers, then sliced up their decadent cake hand-overhand. With a ceremonial toast (the first of many), the formalities were interrupted for dinner. At this point, I was starving, having photographed two entire weddings in the span of eight hours. I watched hungrily as all my friends sat around eating fried fish and banana flower salad, and I chased the bride and groom around every table for mass
toasts, the clinking of glasses in solidarity. After dinner, we were treated to a show, as Maia’s brother sat down at the piano with Marek’s brother accompanying on violin. We swayed along to covers of The Beatles and Coldplay, with the wine I’d been sneaking in between photographs quickly catching up with me. Luckily, the night was winding down, and most of the attendees had trickled out at this point. The few of us who were left met downstairs in a field behind the banquet hall for the wedding’s intimate grand finale. Maia produced two paper lanterns, with “I love you” scrawled across the front in curly script. With the help of friends, the couple lit fires inside the lanterns, filling them with heat that carried them into the darkness. We watched as they faded from view over the skyline, bright symbols of a love that brings cultures together.
“Where there is love there is life.” — Mahatma Gandhi
The Hanoi Wedding Hoa and Nguyen
Hoa: It is a tradition to see a fortuneteller or a monk to find out the lucky times and days for ceremonies, in particular weddings. According to the fortuneteller, my wedding had to be held in 2014 — the year is believed to match perfectly with my age, bringing luck and happiness to the rest of my married life. As we only told our parents in the middle of 2013 about the idea of getting married, we didn’t want to rush to have our wedding in the same year. To please my parents, we decided to have the an hoi (engagement) first and leave the wedding reception to the following year. In Vietnamese culture, once a couple has done the an hoi, they officially become husband and wife. On my wedding day, my mother again followed the lucky hours decided by the fortune-teller, but this time she made a mistake. My ruoc dau was supposed to be from 1pm to 3pm, but my mother remembered the time as 3pm to 5pm. After arranging everything, including the groom's mother's visit, the wedding car, telling the family members and relatives to be ready and on time, my mother realised she had got the time wrong. It was a crazy day but eventually we made it happen within the lucky hours. Our plan was to have a modest wedding with just family and close friends, but no matter how we tried to reduce the number of guests, we couldn’t do better than a guestlist of 500 people. It took place in April 2014. I had some friends from Saigon attending, who came to bless our marriage. It was such a beautiful day.
My Wedding The countryside wedding, the city wedding, nuptials in the mountains and the Western-style wedding. Four couples tell us about their wedding experiences. Compiled by Vu Ha Kim Vy and Nick Ross
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The Countryside Wedding Loc and Tu
Loc: While people in Saigon choose a single day for their wedding, Mekong Delta people usually have two days for the reception and the ruoc dau. As most houses in the countryside have gardens, the wedding reception is always organised at home. But sometimes, even a big garden can’t contain all the guests at the same time, and so the reception is divided into two or three shifts. In my case, I had sessions at 11am, 3pm and 6pm. Opposite to Saigon weddings,
we had the reception on the first day of the two-day wedding; the ruoc dau took place on the second day. With the support of friends from a Vespa club, my ruoc dau was different, with a long line of Vespa scooters following one another to the bride’s house. After the bride was brought to my house, another reception was carried out mainly for the bride’s family, and friends who couldn’t attend on the first day. Both beer and rice wine can be
served at a countryside wedding, and the people of the Mekong Delta prefer their rice wine bottled. On my wedding day, rice wine was the choice. Music was provided by a rented band and a group of transvestite singers. As my hometown is a small place, these singers can easily find out who is getting married. They come and perform for free, hoping to earn money from tips. The wedding was in May, 2012 and I had a lot of fun.
“All weddings, except those with shotguns in evidence, are wonderful.” — Liz Smith
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The Phong Nha Wedding Lesley Arnold and Mark Heather
PHOTOS BY PAUL BLAMIRE
Lesley: Phong Nha is a sleepy little town next to the Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park, which I (Lesley) and my husband Mark call home. We moved to Phong Nha in early 2014 after falling in love with the place while on a holiday to see the world’s biggest cave, Hang Son Doong. Living in Phong Nha meant that we had been to many local weddings of both friends and strangers. And when we started making plans to get married in 2014, we decided that we wanted the riotous fun of a traditional Vietnamese village wedding. This was a great way to show our local friends that the village was now our home, and gave our overseas friends, and family from Australia, an experience to remember. Getting the formal marriage paperwork done wasn’t possible in Vietnam at that time, so we opted for a quiet marriage while on
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holiday in Cape Town in late 2014. But the real party was always going to be in Phong Nha. Our overseas guests made a week of it, staying at the Phong Nha Farmstay and enjoying the scenery and hospitality there, as well as getting out on a bicycle tour, a two-day cave trek and the Farmstay National Park Tour, plus a couple of great parties. When it came to planning, it couldn’t have been easier — the wedding was a breeze for us. Our friend Dzung offered to organise the whole thing — his mum did the catering, he organised the wedding tent, decorations, MC and beer and he put in all the hard work to host the buck’s and hen’s night events and the wedding party in front of his home, the Jungle Boss Homestay in Phong Nha village. There is a traditional way that weddings are done here and we didn’t want to change that. As long
as there was food, beer with ice, friends, plastic stools and of course lots of karaoke, it was always going to be an awesome event. We even had professional photos taken to put on the banner behind the stage, and to make one main wedding photo — framed and Photoshopped in a way that made us look at least a decade younger, and kilos slimmer than we were. In true local style, it’s now hanging in the front room of our house. The wedding was a resounding success, with 150 guests and neighbours turning up. Mark’s parents could not make the overseas trip, but we were privileged to have our neighbour and landlord Bac Hung represent his family for the ceremony. It was hassle-free, loud and colourful, from the Army jeep wedding car to the festivities, speeches, singing and the parties that continued at Easy Tiger Hostel and the Phong Nha Farmstay.
“One is loved because one is loved. No reason is needed for loving.” — Paulo Coelho
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Love is Blind Marriage comes with expectations, and with society changing so fast, these are increasingly hard to fulfill. Vu Ha Kim Vy looks at the pressure faced by modern-day couples in the face of tradition
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ram Nam Hanh Phuc is a common toast made to a bride and groom. It means one hundred years of happiness. While the wish used to have significant meaning for my mother’s generation when people made an effort to maintain their relationships no matter what, it has become a mere formality at weddings these days. Says my mother, who has been married for 44 years, “Most of us didn’t have the chance to get to know one another before marriage. At that time we just followed our parents’ arrangements and still live together until death do us part.” Younger generations are not so easily able to understand those ideas, given modern trends in society such as the rise of gender equality. According to a survey conducted by Vietnam’s Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, and the General Statistics Office, with support from the United Nations Children’s Fund (UNICEF), the number of divorces in Vietnam has increased over the years, from 51,361 cases in 2000 to 88,591 cases in 2010, and 145,791 cases in 2013. A separate study by the Vietnam Institute of Social Sciences states that 60% of divorces are made up of young couples aged between 23 to 30 years, while 70% of divorced couples were married for between one and seven years. People have thousands of motivations to get divorced; the following are some common reasons between Vietnamese couples.
Love Me, Love My Family
Vietnamese family traditions reflect the respect younger generations have towards their parents. All decisions have to be made by the parents and the children have to obey them to show their love and respect. Therefore, a woman after marriage has to respect and love her husband’s family as if she were getting married to the whole family. As the Vietnamese saying goes, “Con gai la con nguoi ta, con dau moi that me cha mua ve,” — one’s biological daughter will become someone else’s daughter and the daughterin-law will become the real daughter. The
tradition is that the groom’s family has to spend a small fortune on items including food, money and jewellery as gifts to acquire a daughter-in-law. As soon as the bride steps into the house, she will be expected to lam dau, meaning being a true daughter-in-law. This means she has to respect, love, and take care of the whole of her family-in-law and have to obey the husband’s parents. For young modern brides, this can often be too much.
The House is not Big Enough
As houses in the big cities are so expensive, many Vietnamese couples find living with the groom’s parents helps financially. This cohabitation is part of another belief that wives always have to follow their husbands wherever they go. It’s also the reason why many families have three generations living under one roof. In the final stages of their lives, people can feel lonely and isolated, and so having someone, especially their children, around means happiness. It also encourages them to fight against their health problems. Yet, along the lines of “two’s a company, three’s a crowd”, problems arise. “They [parents-in-law] were so nosy,” says Quynh, a friend of mine from university. “They always wanted to know what I was doing and where I was. So many times I asked [my husband] to let us move out, even if just to a rented house.” The move never happened and Quynh got divorced after one year, although she had already been with her partner for four years while at university.
The First Son
Another pressure (mostly from the husband’s side) is the expectation that Vietnamese couples have to have children. Yet this is a decision that needs time and money. As a little sister with four married brothers, I have heard my mother’s explanations in each case. It would be either “It’s not good for women to give birth late” or “People will laugh at you when you don’t have a child after being married for so long.” Or simply, “I want to have a
grandchild to carry and take care of.” Vietnamese culture is influenced by Chinese culture, where sons are preferred to daughters. The quantity of children doesn’t matter as long as a couple has at least one son. Many of us believe that the first son (chau dich ton in Vietnamese) will be the only person who is able to take care of the family altar when the grandparents have passed away. The inability to produce a son is one of the excuses that many husbands’ families and even the husbands themselves use to get rid of a wife.
Working Wives
In years gone by, men were supposed to go out hunting and bring home food, while women stayed at home to cook, clean the house, and take care of the children and the husband. During difficult economic times, society has become more open-minded and women are allowed to work, but only to supplement the family finances. Men remain the key. So the more money the wife earns, the more irritated the husband and his family tend to get. The money is regarded as proof that the wife is better and smarter than the husband, and the man’s ego intervenes so that instead of being proud of their wives, many Vietnamese men ask them to quit their jobs or risk breaking up the relationship.
Flexibility
“Whether a family is happy or not depends on the wife,” says my mother. “She has to know how to behave with the husband and be flexible in different situations.” What my mother means is, a wife has to know how to deal with a husband — even a violent, cheating, alcoholic or gambling one — in the wisest of ways while maintaining his ‘face’ as well as taking care of the house and the children. As a Vietnamese saying goes: “Xau chang ho thiep,” meaning that if the image of the husband is bad, the wife will be ashamed. So she has to hide the husband’s mistakes and act as if the family and her still live in happiness and harmony. Sometimes, flexibility has its limits. — Vu Ha Kim Vy
“I have decided to stick with love. Hate is too great a burden to bear.” — Martin Luther King, Jr.
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Welcome to Splitsville In the US, the divorce rate is on the decline. So, what’s the score in Vietnam? As Jon Aspin explains, stats or no stats, divorce sucks
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o one invites you to their divorce. There are no fancy letterheads or gold-embossed name cards. No one will ever talk to you about the food, the music or how drunk Uncle Harry was “the night they got split up”. Nor will they likely mark the date in their diary, unless of course there’s a court appearance involved — which in most countries there is. At most, if it’s an amicable split, you’ll get a diplomatic and slightly philosophical email signed by both parties. I’ve received two of these in my life. Either way, divorce sucks. It means your once golden relationship is, in the eyes of the law, by all definitions, officially, irrefutably and undeniably, over. And if it was never that golden to begin with, you are now free to try and do it all over again, good luck. For the jilted party, and there generally is one, trying to see the other person now is called stalking. Ringing them at odd hours is harassment, and habitually checking their Facebook status is just sad.
Moving On
If you’ve been through a divorce, it’s a not a life-box you want to tick again. After all, it is society’s way of saying: “Here’s something else you kinda sucked at, and now you
have to tell people.” Even if you don’t, it’ll eventually come up, and how you handle it could be important. Imagine the subtext of the following conversation between a man (the divorcee) and a potential new partner: You: “Yeah, err… so did I mention that I was married before?” (Let’s get this bomb out of the way.) Potential new partner: “Really? I didn’t know that!” (That’s a bit intense. I wonder if he’s still f**ked up over it.) You: “Yeah, err… well, I thought I’d mention it, but yeah, it was a few years ago.” (She’s wondering if I’m still f**ked up over it.) Potential new partner: “Wow, I really didn’t know you’d been married.” (I wonder if he cheated on her.) You: “Yeah, we were married. I mean, you know, we got married. There was a wedding. I was in it.” (She’s still wondering if I cheated on my wife.) Potential new partner: “Sh*t.” (He’s clearly still f**ked up over it.) You: “Ummm, anyway yeah so, do you want …” (She wants to ask a bunch more questions. Try changing the subject.) Potential new partner: “… but what happened? How long were you married?”
(I wonder if she cheated on him. Is there something wrong with this guy?) You: “Well, it was a couple years all up …” (Now she’s wondering if she cheated on me.) Potential new partner: “Oh. That’s not very long. Do you have any children? Are you still in touch?” (I wonder if this dude has any children.) You: “Err… No. Luckily we didn’t have children I guess … but anyway, it’s in the past now … so err yeah … I just thought I’d be honest with you.” (Let’s move on) Potential new partner: “Ok.” (He wants to move on.)
Love in Asia
Whether the above rings true to you or not, how to go from being married to being divorced will always involve you filling out a form or two. Despite any opinions you may have of the bureaucracy here, getting a divorce in Vietnam is actually quite simple. You can search the paperwork needed in any expat forum or blog. It’s basically an intention to divorce signed by both parties, brought to the district court where the marriage was originally recognised, followed by a waiting period of two to three months. It’s a relatively cheap process, too, so if you’re
“Nowadays love is a matter of chance, matrimony a matter of money and divorce a matter of course.” — Helen Rowland
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getting one, be wary of anyone who asks you for money. What’s more interesting though, is the attitude to divorce, and relationships generally in Vietnam. Douglas Howerda is an American psychotherapist who has been working for the last five years in Hanoi. He sees relationships on the brink all the time. He says it’s more likely that here in Vietnam and in Asian society generally, that in order to keep the family unit together, people will persist with an unhappy marriage. The D-word is a stigma to be avoided, he says, even if it regularly involves turning a blind eye to a partner’s ‘indiscretion’. “While most Westerners think of marriage as the culmination of a love relationship,” he says, “in Eastern societies it’s more like ‘How do we build the foundation of a family?’ In other words, getting married is a much more pragmatic decision.” This is the major difference between couples in cross-cultural relationships all over Asia, he says, and while every case is unique, Douglas believes there is a definite tendency for women in some of these countries, including Vietnam, to quickly build expectations of a life-long relationship. “Intimacy in terms of actually knowing someone, and taking the time to get to know someone isn’t really as important here,” he says. “The priority, especially when there is a child involved, is about forming that family unit.” Here Douglas refers to the potential result of divorce, and the shame that attaches to being a single mother in many Asian cultures.
Going through it
One man who recently went through a divorce here in Vietnam is Kris, 45, a Belgian who married a Vietnamese woman six years ago, had two children and was divorced at the end of last year. His story confirms that while the process wasn’t technically that difficult, the ramifications are eternal. Having met in 2005, and later married his already pregnant bride in 2009, Kris discovered, while working away from his home in Ho Chi Minh City for long periods, that his wife was conducting an affair in their home. His suspicions were raised when she kept asking exactly what time he would arrive on his twice-monthly visits. Confronting her with it on finding another man in his bedroom, he initially believed that the friend, who was a much younger man known to Kris, “was only helping her out with some work.” Once everything was out in the open, she initially took custody of their children, splitting them up between her mother’s and her own apartment. Kris stayed patient, knowing that his ex-wife would soon grow tired of the situation, and be unable to cope
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with two children on her own. He was right, and not long after, she asked him to take them back. Then, through the process of the courts, he was granted full legal custody. “I didn’t have a lawyer, I just showed up at court. She’s the one who applied for the divorce, so I didn’t have any paperwork to do really. I think it helped me as well that out of the four times I had to show up, my ex-wife was late on three of them.” In addition, his ex-wife didn't want to share the costs of bringing up the kids — even the VND1.5 million to VND2 million per month suggested by the court. Says Kris, “This is the main reason I got full legal
custody over my children.” He adds: “I have heard that most foreigners find it hard to keep or even see their kids. I want people to know that it's possible.” So Kris got what he wanted, against all odds, and while he wouldn’t swap his children for the world, he advises anyone against going into something that doesn’t feel right. “I don’t regret my children, but I do regret getting married in the first place,” he said. Maybe that’s the simple cure for divorce then? An abstinence from marriage. We might be on to something here.
“When two people decide to get a divorce, it isn’t a sign that they ‘don’t understand’ one another, but a sign that they have, at last, begun to.” — Helen Rowland
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Insider
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INSIDER
HANOI
The Circus Hanoi’s got a growing circus community. But it’s not the Big Top we’re talking about here. These are a collection of body and mind practices called the flow arts. Words and photos by Jesse Meadows
“Today, flow arts are especially popular with the counterculture, and have become a distinct aspect of large festivals in the West (think Burning Man)”
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n a balmy Sunday night in a lakeside park off Quang Ba, there is a gathering. Drive by slowly and you’ll see streaks of fire, glowing orbs spinning through the air, flaming hoops illuminating sweaty bodies in flickers of light. Stop by and step into the fray. It’s okay, the hippies are friendly. They’ll welcome you. Join a circle on the grass, crack open that beer you brought in your backpack, and sway along to the guitar someone is playing. Welcome to the circus.
My introduction to the scene began when I met Matt Russell on Tinder. I’m not the biggest fan of the world’s most superficial networking tool — it’s very hit or miss — but this friend stuck. I started noticing his incessant Facebook posts on a group called Hanoi Circus Community and got curious. A map posted on the group’s wall led me to a small grassy park tucked away next to West Lake. I found Matt mingling with the park’s intimate crowd, introducing himself to new faces he didn’t recognise, ensuring newcomers don’t feel ostracised. Hanoi is a small world for expats, though, and I instantly found friends in the grass. Matt disappeared and returned with a tray full of beer from the bia hoi across the street. As he passed them around, a bearded hippie lit his poi on fire and began to spin, slipping us all into a trance.
Burn, Baby, Burn It’s not a circus in the way that you think. There are no big top tents or women being shot from cannons or horribly mistreated elephants — ‘circus’ here refers to a collection of body-mind practices called ‘flow arts’, stemming from yoga and dance.
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The most well-known and fascinating of these arts is fire spinning, which can be done using a variety of toys: staffs, swords, hula hoops, and poi, a tethered weight swung by a performer in various geometric patterns. (Artists also use LED lights, a decidedly less dangerous alternative to fire.) Poi itself stems from Maori culture in New Zealand, where it was mainly performed by women, but rumoured to have been used by men to improve wrist flexibility for handling weapons. Today, flow arts are especially popular with the counterculture, and have become a distinct aspect of large festivals in the West (think Burning Man). With commercial events, however, come pesky things like fire safety regulations and accident insurance. So the hippies have flocked to Southeast Asia, where they can ‘burn’ anywhere they want. The community in Hanoi started sometime in 2012 with Mark Harris (from Gingerwork) and his friends in a small park across the street from his house. What began as a few people getting together on Sundays to practice their fire-spinning has grown quickly, thanks to the concerted efforts of dedicated circusers like Tim Coker and Liv Ferrari. Most recently, Matt has taken up the
charge of organising the troupe’s weekly meet-ups, and drawing new members into the group.
The Circle of Inspiration A couple of weeks after my first Sunday night circus, I got another Facebook invite from Matt: the crew was making a pilgrimage to spin on Cat Ba Island. I shared the event with my housemates, Lucie and Siobhan. “But we’re not in the circus!” they said. “Everyone’s in the circus,” I replied. I invited my friend Jess to come along, and on the way out of Hanoi, we picked up a talented fire-spinning backpacker that we’d met on Sunday night. The six of us set off biker-gang style at 7am on a Monday, Matt with three hoops across his shoulders, a bottle of kerosene between his legs, and a backpack full of circus toys. Six hours, several unfortunate mishaps, and two grey ferry rides later, we rolled off the boat onto Cat Ba. The air was crisp around us from a surprise cold front as we weaved up and down the mountainous coast. I couldn’t wipe the stupid smile off my face; these are the beautiful rides that make all the road pains worth it. We found our hostel in the dark just
“Poi stems from Maori culture in New Zealand, where it was mainly performed by women” outside Cat Ba town, a collection of thatched roof huts underneath a rocky cliff face. A group of circusers were already there to greet us as we all collapsed in exhaustion around our dorm room. I had to fight the urge to close my eyes — we came here for a purpose. “To the beach!” someone shouted, and the sentiment echoed around the group. Sleep when you’re dead, I thought. There’s burning to do. We gathered a stack of firewood and a bag full of beers, and 15 of us mounted our bikes and roared out into the darkness. We were flying down the road, past black behemoth peaks rolling by, mysterious and sublime in the distance. We turned off towards a small cove as yet unknown to tourists, a sign in the road illustrating the beach’s imminent plans for development. It would be a resort soon, but that night, it was just us and the sea. The bonfire began to roar and Matt
emptied his bag of toys onto the sand for us to play with. Most of the toys that the group uses have either been brought from home or made here by hand; Matt even had several sets of practice poi tailor-made with materials sourced from the fabric market in Hanoi. It was these poi that piqued our interest. “Workshop!” we exclaimed, and Jess, Siobhan, Lucie, and I formed a circle in the sand with Matt at the center. None of us had ever dabbled in the art before, so he walked us through the baby steps. Something that looked so impossible from the outside suddenly became accessible, though, granted, I couldn’t stop accidentally hitting myself in the face. “Look! I’m doing something!” Jess kept shouting in astonishment every time her wrists learnt a new move. Matt calls this ‘flow’. “It’s basically a state of mind where you are surrendering what’s happening in front of you to muscle memory, and you’re kind
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of living in the moment,” he says. An hour later and Jess was still going; the circus was catching. This skill-sharing is essential to the group’s dynamic. Matt describes it as an organic “circle of inspiration”; everyone learns from those who have learnt before, through imitation and repetition and failure and laughter. It’s a beautiful illustration of community, and a very real-world application for the social benefits of sharing. Group learning can be an intimidating process for many people, especially when some are far more skilled than others. But somehow this group fosters a radical inclusivity that voids all of those selfconscious feelings. The collective mindset
is an openness to growth, no matter where you are in terms of skill or experience. Come as you are, do what you feel.
Back to Hanoi We left Cat Ba the next day feeling renewed. Sometimes you need to escape the chaos of the city and retreat into the wild. Sometimes you need to create a safe space where you can express yourself. That’s the nature of the circus. It was a similar retreat to Son Tinh Camp in the beginning of 2013 that inspired Quest Festival, which has become a sort of showcase for the fire-spinners, as well as a platform for them to skill-share with others. But like the fire that burns strong and inevitably flickers out, there is a bittersweet
transience to all of this. After the group’s workshops and performances at Quest, Matt plans to leave Hanoi, on to the next adventure. It remains to be seen who will take up the torch when he’s gone. “Circus needs to fill a deep hole inside of you,” he says. It’s Sunday night in the park again. But tonight the circusers are planning, not playing. “Is 40 litres of kerosene enough?” “How should we choreograph the effigy burn?” “Who wants to spin on the lake platform?” Quest Festival is nigh. And the circus is about to come together in a big way. For more info do a search on Facebook for Hanoi Circus Community
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Food and Drink EAT & DRINK
HANOI
The Best Pizza in Hanoi If there’s a western dish loved in Vietnam as much as it is everywhere else, it’s pizza. The ultimate comfort food, our judges spend two days trekking around the capital to find which restaurants serve up the best pizza in Hanoi. Words by Jesse Meadows and Noey Neumark. Photos by Julie Vola
DAY ONE Two Italians an d two Americ ans, newly acquainted, sit side-by-side, awkwardly watching shee ts of rain bom bard Xuan Die So we pose th u. e question: W hat makes or breaks a pizz a? At once, a caco phony of pass proclamations ionate : “If the cheese is st good.” “Good ratios. Too muc icky, it’s no h sauce and I’m out.” “The crust!” Spurred by a healthy debate, we ar e ready to eat.
Linguini Fini 36, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
“T
he Bronx” pizza (VND398,000) arrives on the table like the Big Friendly Giant barreling into town. A voice in our heads keeps reminding us “pace yourselves, pace yourselves,” but with every breath of the glorious monstrosity in front of us, the farther into the distance that cautious voice retreats. We dive in. The pizza’s base (which the Italians clarify is the foundation under all of the sauce and toppings, wholly separate from the crust) seems to wilt under the weight.
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Too bad, because these toppings are worth supporting, particularly the fatty meatballs and the spicy, tender house-made pepperoni. Linguini Fini’s crust is good but not great, and both Italians feel that the meats overpower the sauce and cheese. The Americans contend that the meats are awesome. Yes, Linguini Fini’s is an American pie: supersized, flavourful and proud. As we revel in all this pizza’s excessive glory, Chef Vinny arrives and offers us beer. Then sambuca.
Whisky? Shots? We regretfully decline, as we’re rushing to the next destination, but a new debate has been ignited. What should we be drinking with pizza? High Marks In: Toppings (#1), Value for Money Notable Mentions: Perfect pickled chillies to dollop on your pizza Perfect For: Feeling American with your hungriest friends, before, during or after a big night of drinking.
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ou can find pizza in all corners of the world: deep-fried or deepdish, flambéed, stuffed, sweet, and spicy. In America, one in 10 people eats pizza every day, and the food was considered a vegetable until 2011. In Italy, there was a major movement to define what “counts” as pizza, and to relegate all imitations to a lesser name. And now, in Hanoi, to the relief and joy of hungry expats and tourists from the world over, great pizza exists.
On a crisp, rainy, and sweater-appropriate Saturday not long ago, a group of four certified pizza obsessives set off to find Hanoi’s best pizza. Representing Italy, we had Fabio Zaca, an overall food aficionado who runs a gourmet import business in Hanoi, and Eleonora Simonato, who worked at a pizzeria in the Italian countryside for years and now bleeds red, white, and green every day at the Italian Chamber of Commerce. On Team USA, we had Jesse Meadows, who worked her
way through college in a pizza kitchen, and Noey Neumark, food Instagrammer (@ vietnomnom), former New Yorker and eater of many a late-night slice. The premise was simple: eat pizza. The criteria were clean-cut: crust, base, cheese, sauce, toppings, overall taste, presentation and value. We asked 10 of Hanoi’s favourite pizza establishments, newcomers and strongholds alike, to make us their best pizza. Two of them declined to be involved, eight said yes. Here’s what happened.
OUR JUDGES
Jesse
Eleonora
Pizza 4Ps 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
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ext stop for the pizza train is this stylish bistro, tucked away off Ly Quoc Su among the Old Quarter’s hostels and bia hois. We shake off our damp ponchos and step into the cavernous space, all brick and black leather and seductive low lighting. The Japanese staff bow politely and usher us to a corner table, where we get a view of two giant wood ovens in an open kitchen. The restaurant’s manager, Taku, gives us the lowdown on the pizza’s ingredients — locally sourced with cheese made by Chef Masa, who studied in France to learn this decadent art. This place is serious
about their cheese — they even have their own cows in Dalat. And oh, the cheese! The Prosciutto Burrata pizza (VND290,000) comes adorned with a plump burrata pouch, perched on a mountain of arugula and flaky prosciutto. The flavours are spot on; the salty meat and bitter arugula are tempered by the creamy cheese and the smoky, buttery crust. 4Ps scores high marks all around, though the judges would like “more crunch,” and have minor bones to pick with the meat (“would prefer larger pieces that didn’t clump”) and the temperature (“the fact that it’s not served hot is
confusing”). 4P’s pizza is gourmet. It is interesting, balanced, expertly crafted and worth the pain of securing a reservation. With a resounding “Arigato! Sayonara,” off we go. High Marks In: Cheese (#1), Presentation, Base Notable Mentions: “Spicy Oil!” — Nora “The making of the pizza is just as entertaining as the taste.” — Fabio Perfect For: A business meeting with an international contact that you need to impress.
Noey
Fabio
Pane e Vino 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem
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he sun has escaped us as we approach this unassuming corner building just off Trang Tien, Hanoi’s bourgeois Mecca. Inside we find a candle-lit interior, accented with red curtains and black-andwhite photographs of old movie stars. The waiter offers red wine and the Italians’ eyes sparkle in agreement. “No, beer!” shout the Americans, but our French photographer pulls a Switzerland
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on us. “Tomorrow, we’ll do it your way,” she placates. Turns out, wine is the right decision, a necessary accent to Pane e Vino’s Caprese pizza (VND211,000). The cheese is the highlight here: big chunks of gooey, fresh mozzarella. The toppings are well-balanced and the base strong. Add the array of house-made oils and herbed butter, and you’ve got a real meal. The orange, herb, and
chili-infused accents, in particular, inspire us (or maybe that’s the wine). We file out happy and full into the night, one pizza to go for the day. High Marks In: Cheese, Base Notable Mentions: Wine, infused oils, butter Perfect For: When you’re feeling creative and craving condiment options to modify your pie.
Angelina The Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem
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n first thought, the Metropole Hotel’s Italian restaurant and bar doesn’t seem the kind of place you would come for pizza. On second thought, this does seem like the kind of place you would come to meet your mistress. And, well, if you’re already being naughty, you may as well add a cheesy, truffley, crispy pie to the mix. Angelina’s Parma Ham pizza
(VND380,000) is as sexy as its decor. The delicately burnt crusts, like the rugged jawline of a young diplomat, are discernable and alluring from across the room. The base is strong enough to support the perfect truffled tomato sauce and succulent porcini mushrooms. The cheese, imported bocconcini, is Angelina’s one downfall; it’s too tough, and compromises the
pizza’s otherwise dreamy texture. Even though this is our fourth pie of the day, it’s gone in no time. High Marks In: Sauce (#1), Base Notable Quotes: “Fancy as hell.” — Jesse Perfect For: Meeting your mistress/ manstress and discreetly eating pizza in the corner.
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DAY TWO Still feeling th e aftershocks of yesterday’s pi zzareflux, we asse induced acid mbl Da Paolo on Su e in front of nday afternoo n. We wish a ch eery “Ciao!” to Paolo and clamber upstairs.
Da Paolo 18, Lane 50/59/17, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
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racing for the pizza marathon ahead of us, we order a round of espresso. On the side: San Pellegrino, scoring a major “bellissimo!” from the Italians. The lake view is soothing and Nora and Fabio are chattering away in their native tongue. Things are off to a good start. Paolo appears, wielding pizza. It’s a beaut, with an ideally charred crust and a cheesy centre dotted with colourful vegetables. This is Da Paolo’s Baresena pie, and while its concept and straightforwardness
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scream “real Italian pizza,” as Nora confirms, its ingredients are local. From the juicy fresh Vietnamese eggplant and tomatoes to the cheese, smooth and salty, which Paolo makes in-house using the milk of Vietnamese cows, Da Paolo’s pizza is a harmonious Vietnamese-Italian marriage. The crust is perfect, too, with a flavour mild enough to let the toppings shine, but vibrant enough to hold its own. (Even Jesse, who always leaves crust on her plate, finishes every last crumb.) Fabio is fit to
judge this pie, as he comes from the region where it originates, and he gives it a resounding “thumbs up.” Da Paolo often gets chastised for being pricey, but the judges agree that this is unwarranted. At VND200,000 a pop, Da Paolo’s heavenly, ingredient-driven veggie pie is a steal. High Marks In: Literally everything. Perfect For: A romantic, delicious, and well-lit lunch date overlooking West Lake.
Don’s 16 Quang An, Tay Ho
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ust a short drive around West Lake and we arrive at Don’s, where the man himself greets us at the door. He takes us upstairs to a room with a view, decked out in decorations for Canadian Thanksgiving. The Chilean viognier (a white wine that even the Americans admit pairs perfectly with pizza) begins to flow, and out comes a Nha Trang Seafood pizza (VND230,000). The Italians are skeptical; just yesterday they lamented the popularity of seafood pizza in Vietnam. But lo and
behold, Nora eats her words, along with a second seafood slice. Velvety cheese offsets tender bites of squid and shrimp, while salty anchovies provide an exciting kick to balance the pizza’s richness. Then Don begins to spoil us. He’s just returned from a trip to Hong Kong with a seasonal surprise; truffles. “You have to come to Hanoi to have Italian truffle pizza made by a Canadian!” he says, before we dig into a luscious black and white Truffle pie, thin and crispy, with
slices of truffle sprinkled atop sinful, gooey truffle cream cheese. Just when we think we can’t get any luckier, Don insists on house-made tiramisu. Suffice to say, we roll out of Don’s ready to die happy. High Marks In: Toppings Notable Moments: Passing around fresh truffles for the heavenly scent. Don’s special brand of hospitality that makes us feel at home. Perfect For: Those days when you just need to spoil yourself.
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Paolo & Chi 284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
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fter two bottles of wine at Don’s, the Americans decide it’s time for some beer. We are greeted by Chi, the Vietnamese chef and owner, who taught herself to make pizza in her home kitchen before opening Hanoi’s most popular late-night pizza joint. (They deliver until 3am). She brings out bottles of Bia Ha Noi for all, and a colourful Parma Ham
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pizza (VND270,000). It’s simple, delicate and crunchy, Italian-style, with a minimal, balanced ratio of sauce to Italianimported cheese, and salty, thick slices of fresh parmesan and sweet ham on top. The crisp arugula provides a nice green touch that makes you feel not too bad about shoving this pizza into your mouth in
the middle of the night when you’ve had one too many. It’s the makings of a perfect pizza party, and when Le Soleil mixes up cocktails and blasts techno bangers downstairs, we just want to stay all night. High Marks In: Cheese, Base, Sauce Perfect For: Late night drunken pizza binges. Pizza binges in general.
Foodshop 45 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh
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hether our panel is drunk or not at this point doesn’t count, as we estimate that at least half of the world’s pizza is consumed by drunk people. Besides, drinking makes more eating possible, and we’ve already eaten roughly 14 slices per capita throughout the weekend. Foodshop 45 makes a mean curry, but that’s not why we’re here. This Truc Bach Indian joint recently started making pizzas in their wood-fired tandoor oven, which is a genius business endeavor and a culinary coup. Foodshop 45’s pie is at the opposite end of the purity spectrum
from Paolo & Chi’s trademark Italian simplicity. Atop its thicker crust lies a zesty tomato sauce, heaps of Australian cheese, vegetables, and Indian-spiced chicken. While this pizza is one of the least refined we’ve had — messy, untraditional — it’s one of the most interesting. Even Fabio deems that it’s a “good fusion of Italian and Indian.” Given the slew of international flavours and ingredients featured on this saucy beast, we’re all impressed by the price: at only VND125,000, this pie is some serious bang for your buck. Best of all, our judges are in
agreement: this pizza goes perfectly with beer! Call the United Nations, because peace has been made. High Marks In: Value (#1), Toppings Perfect For: When you can’t decide what kind of food you’re craving. Pizza is the ultimate unifier. Sure, we had our disagreements — wine vs. beer, crust vs. base, excess vs. simplicity — but in the end, we were just four new friends eating our weight in pizza for the course of the weekend. And if you ask us, it doesn’t get much better than that.
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Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
Linh & Ben Unobtrusively situated on the stretch of Xuan Dieu between Warehouse and the Syrena Center, Linh & Ben is the kind of place that regulars seem to love. But what does our mystery diner think? Photos by Julie Vola
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THE VERDICT
12 FOOD
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runch is perhaps my favourite meal of the day, mainly because I never wake up quite early enough for breakfast, and I always want an excuse to have a mojito with my eggs benedict. Thankfully, this combination can be found at Tay Ho’s Linh & Ben (which happens to be within walking distance from my bed.) Despite the giant sign, for some strange reason, I hadn’t noticed the place before. Stranger still, because it sits right next to my favourite bun cha spot on Xuan Dieu. My housemate and I chose a table in their quaint courtyard, a perfect spot for a lazy brunch, and a cozy space a few steps from the chaos of the busy street below. I peeked inside briefly at the decor. Bright fuchsia and green walls add a funky element to the otherwise simple interior, tasteful art pieces, and photographs of natural landscapes complement the fresh bouquets of flowers on every table. We ordered refreshing iced Americanos (VND50,000) as appetizers to kick-start our day. As I took my time, flipping through the large, well-rounded menu, my hunger began to seriously distort my decision-making abilities. Chicken cordon bleu? A panini? Smoked salmon crepe? Or all three? The staff was attentive without being overbearing, and
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SERVICE knowledgeable about the dishes. The server smiled and explained the dishes’ various components, endlessly patient with my indecision. Eventually I came to the conclusion that the salmon eggs benedict was a must. (I’m on a personal mission to find the best in Hanoi) My brunch date, after much deliberation, finally decided on a chicken panini (VND135,000). And for obvious reasons, no real brunch is complete without a passion fruit mojito (VND60,000).
Eggs Ben, Paninis and Goat’s Cheese The food took a bit of time to arrive, but that could have been my intense hunger distorting time. When the server set it down in front of me, though, I was elated. Two round poached eggs, smoked salmon poking out suggestively from underneath, sat on either side of a salad centerpiece, topped with shredded carrot and red onion. The yolks were soft and gooey, spilling out across the plate in a way that satisfied me immensely. The best part of this eggs benedict was the goat’s cheese, hidden somewhere in between all the layers. It added a rich quality that perfectly accented the boldness of the smoked salmon. As good as the bulk of the benedict was, however, it was missing English muffins, which made me sad.
Another minor gripe was the lettuce in the salad, which was un-chopped and resulted in huge pieces of greenery that it was hard to get my fork around. However, a light, oil-based mustard dressing on the side added a delicate tartness to the greens. My date had no qualms about her chicken panini; just the right amount of crisp to the bread, with pesto, tomatoes, and melted mozzarella that oozed out in long strands of cheesy glory. The mojito was a pleasant surprise as well. I find it hard to get a wellbalanced cocktail in Hanoi, with the Vietnamese affinity for sugar usually overpowering the rest of the flavour. This one, though, was effervescent, with fresh mint, lime, and real pieces of passion fruit where I was expecting syrup. For dessert, we ordered a caramelised banana in passion fruit sauce (VND75,000). Three soft, sugary bananas sat in sweet passion fruit syrup, topped with slices of crunchy peanuts. We both agreed that the only thing missing from this dessert was vanilla ice cream, which can be added for VND40,000. Don’t make the same mistake we did, go for that milky frozen decadence. And while you’re treating yourself, get a second mojito, too. Linh & Ben is at 45 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
10 DÉCOR
Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals
Food and Drink
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STREET SNACKER
HANOI
Bun Be Be Bun noodles seem to be served up with anything and everything these days. One variation? Bun served with be be, a type of shrimp from Halong Bay. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Trung Del
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here are good reasons why travellers like visiting Hanoi between September and November. It’s the time of year when autumn breezes sing on tree-lined roads enchanted with golden leaves and the aroma of milk flowers. It’s also this time of year when Hanoians, including me, feel happy, openminded and blessed. More people than normal head to the streets, walking and enjoying the ambience of the city. Couples, hand in hand, walk around Hoan Kiem Lake. Office workers, instead of hiding themselves away from the sun, eating lunch in the office, venture outside to hang out and eat at cafés. The weather also strengthens people’s desire for food, a time when street eateries selling dishes with hot broth are packed with people. Pho, bun ca or fish noodles, bun rieu or crab noodles, bun bo Hue or Hue-style beef noodle soup are always favourites at this time of year. Seafood noodles are also popular, particularly with young people, who prefer a bowl of hot and spicy broth with something rich in taste to heat up their bodies. Bun be be or noodles with mantis shrimp, bun hai san or noodles with seafood and banh canh ghe or Vietnamese-style udon noodles with crab, are some of the dishes that are all the rage in Hanoi these days. But at the top of the pile sits bun be be — in my opinion, it is the undisputed king of the seafood noodles.
A Recent Addition Like other seafood noodle dishes, bun be be is not traditional Hanoi fare. Typically, people in Hanoi eat noodles with freshwater fish, crab or shrimp that are found in the likes of bun ca and bun rieu. But seafood noodles is a combination of something staple; bun together with seafood ingredients that are quite familiar are brought from beaches in the north of the country, and so more options are available. Be be, a sibling of the shrimp, is a favourite when people go on beach holidays in the north. Yet, while this variant is popular at the seaside, until recently, not many people in Hanoi thought of asking for it instead of their standard bun ca. So how was this dish brought to Hanoi? The owner of Café Van Mieu, one of the two eateries that are said to be the first to sell bun be be, told me: “When we went on holiday in Halong, my friend invited us to go for bun be be. I was a bit surprised. As be be has a tough shell, it is quite hard, even a bit dirty if you have to peel it and then put it back into the noodle bowl. But instead, I was offered a noodle bowl with peeled be be and other kinds of seafood. It turned out to be delicious.”
Eat Fresh Café Van Mieu offers ready-to-eat be be served with noodles, Vietnamese mustard greens and slivers of spring onion. Add some spices to counterbalance the fishy taste, and
the full flavour of the dish is brought out. Delicious bun be be can also be found on Ngu Xa or Tran Quoc Toan streets. Café Van Mieu is famous for offering really sweet, fresh and rich-tasting be be. The owner told me: “Our be be is brought by relatives who live on Cat Ba island. The saltier the water is, the stronger the waves at beaches where this kind of shrimp lives, the better the be be tastes. We have tried a number of beaches in the North, and I think that the be be from Cat Ba is the best.” “The two fundamental factors required for a delicious bun be be is the shrimp and the broth — both depend on the way you treat fresh be be once they are caught in the sea. If you don’t know the correct way to handle the creatures, by the time they are delivered to Hanoi, they are already dead and your noodles will be spoilt. “The broth should be sweet, yet light, and must be the kind of broth that boils the shell and head of be be, not pork rib broth. People easily know if the broth is fake.” If you don’t care about being at a famous eatery, you can instead drop by the place at the crossroads of Tran Quoc Toan and Quang Trung to try their own version. For me, the broth is tastier, although their be be is not as fresh. Café Van Mieu is located at 150 Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da, Hanoi. A bowl of bun be be costs from VND45,000 to VND60,000. The eatery also sells very good nem be be or be be spring rolls
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Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER
HCMC
Bamboo Chic After its grand opening in September, our undercover reporter visits Le Meridien Saigon and heads to their ninth-floor restaurant, Bamboo Chic. Does it make the five-star grade? Photos by Kyle Phanroy
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THE VERDICT
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onfession: I love fusion cuisine. Give me crazy combinations; dazzle me with invention. When an inventive chef combines ingredients and methods from around the world, it’s one of the happy side-effects of globalisation. Growing up in a place that offered every cuisine imaginable, from Afghani to Zairean, broadened my tastes. I also love trying new things. Le Meridien’s Bamboo Chic aims for the sort of creative novelty I enjoy, and except for one dish, hit the mark. The place has only been open a couple of months and needs some work — so while the service and the decor were what you’d expect of a five-star hotel, it didn’t blow me away. The view overlooking Ton Duc Thang and the Saigon River, however, was excellent.
Possibilities Choosing a multi-course dinner is always a compromise, along with the possibility of unexpected delights and disappointments. We started with Peking duck sushi rolls (VND180,000) and green-tea beef tataki (VND260,000) before moving on to five spice foie gras (VND530,000) and crispy pork belly (VND270,000) bulked out by garlic fried rice (VND90,000). We finished by splitting Le Baba,
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SERVICE the restaurant’s signature dessert (VND 290,000.) We ordered two exotic sake cocktails, the green tea matcha and the yakuzaa (VND200,000 each, but two for one that night) as well as a bottle of San Pellegrino (VND120,000 for 500ml.) I increasingly appreciate creativity in cocktail recipes, and Bamboo Chic served two inspired examples in ceramic bowls, in finest 1970s Hong Kong kung fu movie style. The yakuzaa, alight with fresh green apple and plum juice, floated on the tongue. I noted a solid wine and liquor selection as well.
A Blast of Flavours The restaurant plates dishes well — beautifying standard sushi rolls isn’t easy. However, the duck rolls were the best dish of the evening, a blast of sweet sauce, rich duck and salty seaweed. The nearly-raw beef tataki was mellow and full, especially with the crunchy garlic slices. The foie gras pleased us visually. It was the most artfully arranged dish, which was appropriate, since even cruelty-free, it’s a hedonist’s food, although I would have preferred my three seared pieces of smooth, creamy liver to be cooked more thoroughly. We both enjoyed the pork belly, the play of soft fat against crisped skin and toasted ginger. I thought
the cold noodles lacked flavour; my date disagreed. Our dessert, Le Baba, was a Hibiki-soaked cake with mango slices surrounding matcha Chantilly cream and mint leaves. It was delicate and well-balanced, just my kind of fusion.
12 DÉCOR
Service and Decor Décor in large hotel chains is often dominated by post-modern corporate whimsy — not too daring, not too conservative. Bamboo Chic fits into this formula. Square glass and steel dominate the restaurant’s couches and the stuffed pink armchairs, the sort of businessclass luxury to be found in any metropolis. Our servers were pleasant but appeared stretched that night despite only having a few customers. We waited nearly 20 minutes for the bill; even the priciest eateries need time for the service to come together. If you’re going to try Bamboo Chic, go soon. Two unexpected discounts dropped our bill to an affordable VND1.5 million. I’ve only eaten there once, so the novelty may wear off, but I appreciate seeing another restaurant here take culinary chances. Given another month of 30 percent off, I’d definitely go again. Bamboo Chic is located on the 9th floor of Le Meridien Hotel, 3C Ton Duc Thang, HCMC
Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals
Food and Drink
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STREET SNACKER
HCMC
Pho Chua Most street food that makes its way to Saigon from elsewhere gets adapted to the local palate. One such dish is pho chua. Words by Vi Pham. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
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ho chua (sour pho) did not originate in Saigon, but was brought from the mountainous provinces of northern Vietnam. Some people say it was first created in Bac Ha, or Lao Cai, while others believe it originates from Lang Son. While city folks see pho chua as a new Saigon street food, it acts as a welcome reminder of home for the hill people of the far north who have moved to the big city. No matter where it comes from, pho chua has been Saigonised and Saigon has embraced it as its own, just as people from all over Vietnam are accepted as part of the city.
Saigonisation The noodles in Bac Ha’s pho chua are not as white as those from other provinces. They are light brown and are freshly made right in the restaurant. The sour sauce is made with a fruit vinegar and is used to cover the noodles, sliced pork, fresh herbs and roasted peanuts. In Lang Son, pho chua is not only a dish for Tet and other holidays, but a dish for special visitors. Only important guests or those close to the host get to enjoy pho chua as part of
their meal. The fresh pho noodles are served with ground peanuts, sliced herbs, pork, Vietnamese sausage and the most essential part — the sour sauce. Saigon’s pho chua may have started out being similar to the Lang Son dish, but changes have been made to adapt it to the local palate. The sour sauce in Saigon is made from tamarind, a speciality of southern Vietnam. Tamarind can be found in many recipes, from a proper meal to snacks. And in Saigon, pho chua is not just cooked up for festivals, but for every occasion. Pho chua in Saigon is also served with chicken and a piece of shrimp cake (cha tom). The chicken replaces the sausage, while the shrimp cake takes over from the fried sweet potato. The sweet and sour sauce together with the spice of the chillies, the rich pork crackling, the crunchy chicken and the fresh herbs make you feel like your taste buds are about to explode. Pho chua is a product typical of the diversity of cultures in Saigon, the country’s biggest melting pot. This is a city that takes ideas from elsewhere and then creates something distinctive and with its own character.
A Tough Treat Even though pho chua is full of flavour with its varied ingredients, it can only be found in some hidden corners of this city. The reason may lie in the way the dish needs to be cooked, starting with the sour sauce. It is a sophisticated sauce that requires a number of cooking techniques and a good sense of taste. To make an appetising sauce, the cook has to start by sautéing onion, garlic and chillies and then filtering the tamarind sauce to make sure the texture is smooth. Although pho chua is known as smokeless pho, the serving time and the ingredient arrangement needs to be perfectly timed so it is not cold when it’s eaten. Also, because the taste of this dish is not familiar to the Saigon palate, the first bite may not be the best. It is only the second or third bite that brings out its distinctive taste. Pho chua might be a tough one to both cook and eat, but it’s this very nature that has triggered the curiosity of many a foodie in Saigon. If you want to check out this dish, try alley 242 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Q3 (open from 3pm to 7pm only) and 354 Le Van Luong, Q7 (open from 10pm). I assure you your taste buds will thank you later.
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Travel
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TRAVEL
NATIONAL
Con Dao If you like nature, sun, sea and diving, but don’t care so much for nightlife, then the remote islands of Con Dao could be for you. Words and photos by Nick Ross
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umbers vary, but according to estimates there are 7,000 to 8,000 people living on the Con Dao archipelago, the remotest inhabited islands in Vietnam. Fourteen of them are expats. That there is a foreign community here at all is due to tourism. Speak to many mainland Vietnamese and expats, and they’ve never heard of the place. Despite having a dark history — Con Dao was once the notorious French penal colony of Poulo Condore — and despite being home to some of the most unfettered natural scenery in Vietnam, for many the islands lying 185km southeast of Vung Tau remain off the map. Which is a real shame. The 16 islands that make up this archipelago, with their grandiose scenery, deliberate lack of development and tropical climate are special. The ruins of the old prisons, with their mannequins showing the suffering of the Vietnamese inmates, add to the mystique. This place is wild. Dark and wild.
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Get stuck in the storms here and you feel the impact of nature. When it rains it doesn’t only pour. Here it’s an avalanche.
The Islands For such a small place there is a lot to do, and during my two visits I have been constantly enchanted by the scenery. Beaches intermingle with black rock cliffs covered in strange, other-worldly fauna. In places the plant life takes on an emerald green colour. Against the backdrop of the volcanic rock, the effect is startling. Add to this the soaring grandiose views of cliffs, sea and the other islands, and the effect is calming. But inland, the aspect changes. The foliage turns into thick rainforest, with paths winding through the thick undergrowth leading to hidden shrines. As with the islands’ marine areas, this part of Con Dao is a national park, which means conservation. There are issues with the way nature is being preserved, but having this status is the reason the islands are so undeveloped. Con
Dao has a unique ecosystem, and one that is getting some protection. But to see all this — the museums, the graveyard and the ruins of the prisons both in and outside the main town of Con Son — you need transport. With only one road circling the main island and non-existent traffic, hiring a motorbike here is safe and the best way to travel. If you do manage to get transport, then Bar 200 in town has a map of the islands, and serves up decent western food as well. It’s a good starting point for any exploration of the islands — and a good endpoint, too. Another option for food is the five-star Six Senses Resort on Dat Doc Beach. Here the cuisine is taken to a whole new level, as is the accommodation. For contrast, make sure you travel down to the fishing port of Ben Dam on the southwest of the main island. There you’ll see tiny karaoke joints and quan nhau (drinking restaurants) mixed with small, square-shaped convenience stores and
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shacks selling street food. A quay sticks out into the sea where the day’s fishing catch is unloaded and the day-to-day commerce of the fishing industry takes place. Ben Dam has a rough and ready feel to it and on one visit, when I arrive, there has been a fight between two red-faced, longhaired fishermen. They’ve been drinking, something has happened, and only when a policeman turns up do they get separated. “The fishermen live a very hard life,” I am informed. “When they go out to sea, they don’t see land for a month or two months at a time. It makes them crazy.”
From Under the Sea An archipelago, Con Dao is a natural destination for divers, and I’ve been to the depths of the sea here twice. Both were great experiences — despite the fishing and other man-made destruction, the coral and fish life
remains intact. On one occasion I got caught up in a tropical typhoon. We were on a converted wooden fishing boat, about to do a second fun dive with island-based outfit Con Dao Diving Centre. We waited for the swirling winds and rain to die down before heading back into the water. The diving visibility wasn’t great — I was unlucky, I was told, as two weeks before the water had been perfectly clear — yet despite the storm, we still had a great dive. But my best memory will be the night I went to watch turtles clamber up onto a deserted beach before laying eggs and returning to the sea. We started out at 8pm for Bay Canh Island and it was only at midnight that the rangers finally brought us round to watch a turtle laying her eggs. It was an other-worldly experience, one that was worth the four-hour wait.
Information To find out about diving in Con Dao, click on divecondao.com. This is the online home of C ON D AO D IVING C ENTRE and B AR 200 . Additional information about the islands can be found on Wikitravel. S IX S ENSES is the only five star resort on the islands. It’s also one of the top resorts in Vietnam. For more info, go to sixsenses.com/condao. Information on other places to stay can be found on TripAdvisor. Accommodation starts at about VND500,000 a night in bed-andbreakfast type places like Hai An Hotel. At the time of writing VASCO (Vietnam Air Services Company) is operating five return flights a day to Con Dao from Ho Chi Minh City. Return flights cost between VND1 million and VND3.1 million.
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DESTINATION ZERO MIA NHA TRANG
E
veryone loves a beach holiday; cocktails and beer by the pool, swimming in the sea, sunbathing on the sand, freshly cooked seafood on the terrace. People love it so much that they fly thousands of miles for the pleasure. Yet for those of us who live in Vietnam, it’s right on our doorstep. Which is where Mia Nha Trang comes in. There are hundreds of good resorts up and down Vietnam’s 3,000km-long coastline. But few offer all-in-one beach holidays as you would expect to find them in Europe or the Antipodes. Mia provides everything in a single place, and provides it well, meaning that unless you’re craving some nightlife, you won’t have to travel the 20km or so to Nha Trang. In this sense, Mia is a rarity.
A Taste of Europe When I first walked into the place and settled into my villa, my attention was struck by the putting green-like lawn out front. Tropical foliage, grey-stone paths and palm trees added to the effect, which immediately reminded me of the Algarve, the best-known holiday destination in Portugal. The weather is similar, too. The main, open-plan restaurant, Sandals, adds to the flavour, with well thought-out, creative comfort food mixed in with slightly more upper-end fish and meat fare. It’s standard yet it’s not — the Mediterranean influence runs through the whole menu, and the quality of every dish makes this restaurant good enough to be a standalone. The cuisine hasn’t just been thrown together because the resort thinks it’s the kind of food the guests want to eat. Here they’ve got a concept. The villas are equally enticing. Outdoor showers, an awesome entertainment system with over 300 movies, and outdoor, private seating areas, perfect for lazing away in if you’re not in the mood for the infinity pool or the beach. The property also has some attractive cliff-side and by-the-sea condos, and a new section is being built with villas by the sea for sale (they cost a cool US$1.5 million). I could go on in this fashion. I could talk about the excellent massage and facial I had (resort spa treatments are often disappointing). And I could also point out the negatives (there are very few). Set on its own private beach and on the side of a cliff, Mia is a destination in its own right, perfect if you want to go somewhere that you never quite want to leave. — Nick Ross
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DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.
This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663
M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555
hanoi-daewoohotel.com
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Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888
hanoi.intercontinental.com
This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
moevenpick-hanoi.com
With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919
sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
M M M HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable
minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048
josephshotel.com
Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.
M M M HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372
hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.
M M M HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.
LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688
lemeridien.com/saigon
Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creative-minded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine. NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town. PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1117
renaissance-saigon.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.
M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture. NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso. NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090
villasong.com
Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice.
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
M M M HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An
anbangbeachretreat.com
CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.
MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777
mercure-danang.com
Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix.
Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.
M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914
Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
kimdohotel.com
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THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 8: IN THE DESH‌ BANGLA-DESH! (PART 2)
Now reunited with his trusty motorbike, Nemo, Matt Dworzanczyk continues his journey to India via Bangladesh
DAY 127
DAY 135
St. Martin No peace at Cox’s Bazar, no matter that it’s Bangladesh’s pride and the longest beach in the world. Whether it’s the touts or, more likely, invasively staring crowds, I just can’t get a second alone. I give up. Let’s try the nearby St. Martin’s Island instead. It’s early monsoon season and ferries aren’t running. But who needs ferries anyways! With two friendly guys from Dhaka, we hitched a ride — on a local wedding boat, nonetheless. A devastated young girl is being taken away from her family to meet her husband on the island. Rough seas. The whole wedding party is puking. And all the women struggle, even in such circumstances, unwilling to remove their face veils…
Dhaka More people than I’ve ever seen in any one place. Cars with metal side-bumpers, drivers carrying sticks to whack the cyclos out of their way, double decker buses looking like crumpled, 10-year-old soda cans, bullet holes in their windshields. And the early monsoon downpour turns roads into rivers. I manage to safely park my Nemo — don’t plan on moving him again until we’re ready to leave here.
DAY 129 Reorganising
DAY 140 Iftar I’ve been disappointed with Bengali food. Grease, chilli, zero hygiene and no choices. Enough for sustenance but no joy to my meals lately. That all changed at Ramadan — surprise! — a grand, colourful feast of endless options. I wait impatiently for each sunset!
DAY 143
Tried to rebalance the load on my bike. Didn’t attach one bag carefully enough. Lost all my tools and spare parts. Sure enough — half hour later, suspension snaps. And I don’t even have as much as a wrench. Dammit.
Tea Plantations Sreemangal. An inviting little town surrounded by tea estates. I’m sipping my colourful, seven-layered tea. Last day of my visa and if not for man’s imaginary boundary, I’m looking on at India just a few hills away.
DAYS 131, 132, 133…
DAY 144
Hill Tracts I surely must be far from Vietnam when somehow I manage to blend in. With no permits but my determination, with my khau trang on and my helmet visor down, it took little else than a friendly hand wave to drive into Chittagong’s Hill Tracts Region. Bandarban — Stunning views. Unobtrusive people. Culture much closer to Myanmar than Bangladesh. Better food. Cleaner streets. Why can’t the rest of this country be more like that? Koptai Lake — It’s not without controversy that this man-made lake was formed (whole villages displaced). Still, my eyes tear up. It’s so stunning. It’s just too much to take in. Rangamati — Stopped in town to fix my bike chain. Friendly guy invited me for lunch, then begged me to offer him work in my country, assuring me he even has a passport. I couldn’t help. He went off to smoke yaba (meth) with his friends, an invitation I had to refuse…
No Man’s Land The border crossing I’ve been dreading. India’s known for bureaucratic difficulties and after Bangladesh, I’m preparing for the worst. Three hours to check out on the Bengali side. I approach India. And… they won’t let me in. Hello ‘No Man’s Land’. Hours pass… Will I need to pitch my tent here tonight? An official delegation eventually shows up — very official — considering the surroundings: rusty barbed wire, one cow mounting another and a fat, old soldier picking out dirt from his oversized moustache. They don’t have a computer here to process my bike and I actually feel some comedic pity for them. A few more hours of pleading with Bangladesh to let me back in, another night in town, a 100km ride to another border town and a surprisingly smooth crossing. And… we’re in India. Feeling good. For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog
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Travel
THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.
M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors. BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475
la–residence–hue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
M M M NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222
budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com
the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666
COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727
ninhchubay.com
cocobeach.net
JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177
joescafemuine.com
A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix. MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.
M M M
Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322
A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while
PHONG NHA
easytigerphongnha@gmail. com
phong-nha-homestay.com
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
M M M PHU QUOC
SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02
salindaresort.com
Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with contemporary design. The property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.
BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and in-
cludes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season. MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.
M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.
M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939
condaoresort.vn
2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa. JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
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PHOTO BY MATT DWORZANCZYK
sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.
M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150
exotravel.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays. HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828
handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture. TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977
kien@travelsense.asia
A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.
M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC
travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam. EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotravel.com
A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers. TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170
If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.
This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585
buffalotours.com
vietnamvespaadventure. com
Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.
M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659
backofthebiketours.com
Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. BEENINASIA.COM
beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.
HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com). INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
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Hanoi
The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eat / Student Eye / Medical Buff / Book Buff Photo by Trung Del 134 | Word November 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Hanoi Essentials
ALTERNATIVE HEALTH
BUSINESS GROUPS
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP
A-ROAMING BODYWORKER
g
karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com
Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available. HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE
issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth
A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Only available online, but a great information source.
M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP
23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896 TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS
44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151 WEEKEND BOOKWORM CHILDREN’S & VIETNAM-THEMED BOOKS
1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 With its main store located in Chau Long, sharing space with Hanoi Cooking Centre, the second edition in Tay Ho specialises in children’s and Vietnamese themed books, as well as selling bao cap (Subsidy Era) furniture and a range of souvenirs and gifts. Open weekends only. XUNHASABA ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068
M M M
AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790
amchamhanoi.com
AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994
auschamvn.org
BBGV Floor 1, Hanoi Central Office Bldg 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 8681
bbgv.org
CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229
hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115
thehanoiclub.com
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
HANOI OIS
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.
NETBALL CLUB
ghanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE
24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP
EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147
SKATESHOP
booskateshop.com
eurochamvn.org
CONTRABAND
ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh
sbav-hanoi.org
M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.
M M M CLUBS & SOCIETIES
GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost. L’ATELIER 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
GOETHE INSTITUT
METISEKO
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251
metiseko.com
goethe.de/hanoi
15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725
M M M COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours. HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.
M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE
WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850
EVENT SPACE
THREE TREES
AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.
AMERICAN CLUB
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
JEWELLERY
ccifv.org
icham.org
eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fairtrade, Textile Exchange.
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an
JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn
BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS
9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831
TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com
Hanoi Essentials
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.
M M M GALLERIES
METISEKO ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
M M M CYCLING DON’S TAY HO BICYCLE RENTALS
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com GREEN BIKE
CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST
15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES
34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS
70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941 THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156
thbc.vn
M M M
DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC
ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 5190
artvietnamgallery.com
Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks. MANZI GALLERY & BAR / CAFE
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices. NHA SAN COLLECTIVE GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316
nhasanstudio.org
The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.
peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com
Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts.
SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
WORK ROOM FOUR
2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286
DENTAL CLINIC
19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888
serenitydentalclinic.com
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
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ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY
Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
workroomfour.com
A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes col-
162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST.IN.M 48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907
ANNAM GOURMET
LAN SALON
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487 DA LOC WINE RETAILER
96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789
Daloc.vn
HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP
6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com KITCHEN ART KITCHENWARE
38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770
kitchenart.vn L'S PLACE GROCERY SHOP
3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911 NATURALLY VIETNAM ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS
4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com RED APRON WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337 THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI
24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE
VEGGIE’S
vnfam.vn
UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON
WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER
66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131
PEACE DENTAL CLINIC
HAIR STREAM
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM
VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM
DENTAL CLINIC
M M M
17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854
3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434
australiandentalclinic.com
laboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG
99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
M M M HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899
TOP-END SALON
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190
M M M HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL
136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717
bumrungrad.vn
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service. FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL
55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880
SHOPPING MALLS GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER
The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500
INDOCHINA PLAZA
241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596
LOTTE CENTER
54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016
lottecenter.com.vn PARKSON
Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666
parkson.com.vn PICO MALL
229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400
SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214
hongngochospital.vn
INTERNATIONAL SOS 24HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL
12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231
TRANG TIEN PLAZA
cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999
VINCOM ROYAL CITY
72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
M M M INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370
insuranceinasia.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111
libertyinsurance.com.vn
REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488
M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435
bishanoi.com
A selective, independent, co-educational day school. Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards. CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
for-profit entity, UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.
A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.
M M M
isvietnam.org
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS
PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS
6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6332
fair-realestate.com
GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS
R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589
gialonghousing.com
37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096
HANOI RENTING
MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL
No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828
MOTORBIKE RENTALS
106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464 PHUNG MOTORBIKE MOTORBIKE RENTALS
13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105 VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS
17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.
M M M
RENTALS
company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam. JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
hanoirenting.com
LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS
38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999
AGS FOUR WINDS
VIETLONG HOUSING
agsfourwinds.com
houseinhanoi.com RENTALS
21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203
vietlonghousing.com
41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762 A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.
M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
The largest home moving
With over 150 offices around
vn.alliedpickfords.com
santaferelo.com
hanoi.qsi.org
QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students. SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2, Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818
kinderworld.net/sis
Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers. UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A not-
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 137
THE THERAPIST This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, answers the concerns of a woman who is having communications issues with her partner
Dear Douglas, Something has been bugging me lately about my boyfriend and his friends. These guys are smart and educated, but whenever a serious topic comes up in the group, they turn sarcastic and make fun of anyone who wants to offer a sincere opinion, or express some feelings. I wonder why this is. While sometimes I see the humour in this, I wonder… are sarcasm and cynicism healthy ways to communicate? Why do guys not want to talk about anything serious? I told my boyfriend recently that it bothered me that no conversations ever go anywhere because he can’t take things seriously and dismisses my feelings like they are somehow childish. I am not sure what to do about this. Am I missing something? — Seriously Dear Seriously, It sounds like you are asking an important question about the difference between men and women and how it influences what you can expect from your boyfriend. Being heard and understood is pretty important, and having your thoughts and feelings dismissed produces frustration and resentment. Communication is one of the great challenges in the human experience. To open up to one another or to discuss
138 | Word November 2015 | wordvietnam.com
difficult ideas is not easy for many people. One way to make it safe to be together is to create unspoken “norms” about what we can say or express with one another. It is safer to stay on the surface of topics than to explore the differences we might have with others or the ways what we say affects one another. Men tend to talk about common interests and experiences much more than women… who do share feelings and opinions more naturally. Sarcasm is one way that people deal with the discomfort of expressing themselves openly. Sarcasm holds not only the content of what is said, but a tone that indicates power or anger. It can be a “norm” that dismisses the genuine sharing of ideas or feelings to cover the vulnerability that is inherent in openness. Openness requires a trust which is often lacking in groups of people, who can sometimes be socially competitive, even as friends. We all have a need to believe that our perspective on reality is accurate. Men, more than women, feel the need to be “right” and are often uncomfortable not knowing something or having someone else’s opinion challenge the way they think. In order to keep themselves from facing the fact that they don’t always see things correctly, men use power to determine what the group can talk about or take in. Acceptance or rejection is a part of every
interaction and most of us want to feel we are in control as a way of avoiding rejection. Sarcasm or cynical attitudes are ways to produce an “offensive” defensiveness. There may be times when it is funny or appropriate to use these to deal with a situation. However, if it is the way a person is communicating about another’s feelings or topics that are important to discuss, I feel like it is a “red flag” and may suggest a person who is not comfortable with themselves enough to be open and vulnerable. We do know that sustainable relationships are predicated on trust and being able to communicate effectively. Being open and vulnerable are part of that. I don’t know that you have influence or can draw conclusions from your boyfriend’s communications in a group, but if you don’t feel like he can follow a deeper conversation with you, and how you need him to understand your feelings and perspectives… I’d think twice about how well he is a match for you. Seriously! Stay true to yourself and ask for what you need. Wishing you wellness, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed
Hanoi
the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.
Essentials
MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE
5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS
5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515
studio5.vn
VIETCLIMB CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass. ZENITH YOGA YOGA & MEDITATION
247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
M M M SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS
19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6273 3095 BOO SKATESHOP SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147
bosua.vn
HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757
hanoisport.vn
SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
score-tech.net
Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.
UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS
SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem
bigc.vn
TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING
13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305
umove.com.vn
CITIMART Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999
FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617
PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
metro.com.vn
BAR STOOL LE SOLEIL + PAOLO & CHI
O
h, Le Soleil, how do I love you? Let me count the ways. (Okay, I tried to start counting, but all I got was ‘pizza party’ three times). If there ever was a bar strategically set up to host epic underground pizza parties, though, it is you. I once saw a girl eating spaghetti dangerously close to the dancefloor at three in the morning. That was shortly before the bar ran out of draft beer and I ran out of cigarettes and the music was banging so hard that the DJ blew out the speakers. (Arguably the best party of the year, if you ask my friend Jeff.) And though in theory, these factors should have culminated in a two-star Yelp review for you, my darling pizza bar, in practice, they only endeared me even more. Maybe it’s the way you make me feel. Safe, like I have descended into a womb of warm techno music. There’s nothing to fear here, because pizza is near. Literally, it’s right there. Right at the end of a majestic spiral staircase from Paolo & Chi above,
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PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
there is a gigantic, hot pizza oven, and obviously it follows, there is a gigantic line of partiers waiting for pizza.
Forever Yours Or maybe it’s the way you find me on the dancefloor, sweaty and smiling. I turn and there you are, vegetarian pizza (VND125,000) shining in hand like a beacon in the dark of the club. It is truly glorious. (This is not a metaphor — Chi herself actually fought through the crowd to deliver my pizza to me on the dancefloor once.) Maybe its the sexy French owners pouring Carlsberg drafts (VND35,000) and mixing up Cuba Libres (VND60,000) behind the bar. Cesar Aubry and Baptiste Gilloz opened Le Soleil in collaboration with Paolo & Chi last November, and have since fostered the best kind of symbiotic relationship. “We are two different entities, but under the same roof, working beside each other like a family,” says Baptiste. And it does feel like we’re family,
Le Soleil. On Saturday nights, when everything else in Tay Ho is dead and boring, you’re there for me. And you listen when I tell you what I need. It’s like that time Baptiste was partying after hours, 8am in God-knows-where, and some guy started DJing trance on YouTube. Everyone loved it, so the next weekend, a trance party was born. “We were really expecting 15 people,” says Baptiste. “But I don’t know how many came… It was packed as hell, I’d never seen this before, and we were all dancing through the night.” But most of all, I love the way that you feel like the best kind of secret. Every time I mingle at the bar, happy revelers turn to me beaming with joy at their newest discovery. “I’ve never been here before. I’ve just heard about it!” they say excitedly. Oh Le Soleil, Hanoi’s mystical pizza bar, I am forever yours. — Jesse Meadows Le Soleil + Paolo & Chi is at 284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at paoloandchi.com and facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi
Hanoi On the Town
BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR
23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta. 88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit. ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar. BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI
15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix. BARBETTA
EDEN HANOI OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE
End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
facebook.com/edengargen
When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list. ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes. FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT
25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE
27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170
facebook.com/hrc.hanoi
Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming.
ARTSY BAR & CAFE
34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat. CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR
73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970
cama-atk.com
With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088 HOUSE OF SON TINH LIQUOR LOUNGE
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
This bar-cum-restaurant is outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings and is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events including comedy nights and shows all the live football. Also known for its creative Vietnamese food menu. LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT
284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993
facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi
Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen,
especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs. MADAKE BAR & EVENT SPACE
81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665
facebook.com/madakehanoi
With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint.
pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly. ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR
61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087
facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details. SIDEWALK HANOI
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR
7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers. PANIC BAR LGBT BAR
40A Yen Phu, Ba Dinh A watering hole dedicated to the increasingly confident local LGBT community, this grunge-style bar puts on DJ nights and is also the home of the local Zine, Hanoi Panic. Also serves up Thai streetfood. Check out their Facebook page for a list of their events. PHUC TAN LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR
51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places. POLITE PUB LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches. RED RIVER TEA ROOM LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE
25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room
Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving
THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901
therooftop.vn
The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience. THE UNICORN BAR COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE
A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty.
2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. Now, as for the cocktails…
SPY BAR
TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL
HOLE IN THE WALL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE
MAO’S RED LOUNGE
bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.
199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi
12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for. TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE
24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this well-known and well-loved space. THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB
Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi. VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL
2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922
vuvuzela.com.vn
When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.
CAFES
facebook.com/Nest. Lounge.09XuanDieu
ANNAM CAFE
THE REPUBLIC
CIAO CAFÉ
MODERN SPORTS BAR
RESTO LOUNGE
The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats. It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas. The views here are pretty eye-catching, too.
7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116
republic.vn
A contemporary mid-range
DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers.
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 141
COFFEE CUP NGO QUAN
PHOTOS BYJULIE VOLA
A
s I come out from my latest shopping spree at Bookworm, I can’t wait to start reading my new book. I decide to make my way to Ngo Quan, a nearby Vietnamese coffee house recommended by a friend. Out front there is a small terrace, perfect to watch, sheltered, the bustling life of Chau Long Street and its market. Come inside, pass the first room and you find yourself on a staircase and then in another typical Vietnamese room, where you find the house’s real gem, a little courtyard, a small peaceful garden surrounded by artwork. A green spiral staircase winds its way to a shaded fourth sitting area, more private and secluded. Today is one of those perfect autumn days to sit outside and enjoy the nicer weather while sipping on a coffee. The city noises are far away and muffled. I can hear the laughter of children, the barking of a dog, the small twitter of dancing birds in their wooden cages, and a small breeze singing through the bamboo chime. The drinks here sit on an extended list of cheap Vietnamese coffees and teas or
smoothies (from VND25,000 to VND80,000). With 26 different Vietnamese and flower teas on offer, the selection is impressive. It’s the only part of the menu without translation and you will need to be an adventurer to order blindly, but certainly there’s a reward to discovering the taste of these rare concoctions. Later after more research online and with the help of some friends, I break the code. There is pretty much everything, from the classic jasmine and Oolong tea to the most surprising tea made of with the dried sprout from the lotus flower seed (tam sen luc vi).
Egg Coffee and Avocado Smoothies However, I have been told the must here is the egg coffee and avocado smoothie. I order the first and settle on one of the simple small dark wooden tables to read my latest acquisition. I can hear Ms. Nhung, the owner, grinding the coffee and vigorously whisking away the egg in the kitchen. The egg coffee arrives in a tall glass that shows the generosity of the serving — two thirds of the drink is a frothy mixture of egg yolk
and sweet condensed milk sat on top of the strong, black aromatic coffee. I eat (yes eat!) the fluffy mousse on top. Though it’s flirting with sickly sweet territory, this ultimate sugar high gives me energy for the rest of the day. I am no specialist in egg coffee, but this feels like a really good one to me. Time flies by when you read a good book, and the day is slowly fading. So I move from the courtyard to the front of the house. I order the avocado smoothie. The green creaminess is really good — I can sense the tasty coconut cream that complements the avocado. After all this sweet goodness, I don’t think I will need to eat dinner. I certainly won’t be going to bed early. Ngo Quan is not one of these young hipster, Pinterest perfect coffee shops (even though I love to go and photograph these). It’s an authentic Vietnamese coffee house with lovely owners and a nice dog, nestled on a lively street. An overlooked café perfect for people-watching, a good conversation or a quiet read. — Julie Vola Ngo Quan is at 51 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 143
Hanoi On the Town
this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. They also do coffee. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE
28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
congcaphe.com
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE
89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. DUY TRI VIETNAMESE CAFÉ
43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned. HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ COURTYARD CAFE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, air-con dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the allday breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea.
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HANOI HOUSE
sional farmers’ markets.
HIDEAWAY CAFE
2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY
22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE
252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt. MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too. MAISON DE TET DÉCOR LIFESTYLE CAFE
36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
On-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occa-
MOC CAFE CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains. PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night.
YOLO
COUSINS
FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops
facebook.com/cousins.hanoi
32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh
Boasting an abundance of communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. Open 24 hours. ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN
247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561
zenithyogavietnam.com
A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.
EAT
SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times. TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR
Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations. THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY
6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117
facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub
A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.
3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098
A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available. DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.
ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment.
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831
daluva.com
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list. EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service. There’s a reason El Gaucho
is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959
foodshop45.com
Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. FRENCH GRILL TOP-END GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French erabuilt villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. HALIA HANOI SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121
thehalia.com
A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list. HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor. J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered. JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list. JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World. KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR
59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. KY Y
Tel: (04) 3942 4509
labadiane-hanoi.com
On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia. LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO
44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays. LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950
lasalsa-hanoi.com
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, Europeanstyle coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. LA VERTICALE
LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem,
LUNA D’AUTUNNO CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338
lunadautunno.vn
This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to build-your-ownskies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list. MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended. MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN
23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven.
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese-French fusion cuisine. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET
Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris.
JAPANESE RICE EATERY
166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors.
prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas.
LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN
36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968
linguinifini.com/en/hanoi
With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable
MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare. MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH
11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
cafe-des-arts.com
A contemporary and chic threestorey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini. Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board. MOOSE AND ROO CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT
42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleas-
TOP EATS QUAN KIEN
I
discovered Quan Kien on a rainy Wednesday night when I almost didn’t go out. Only the fact that a friend was leaving for Italy soon, persuaded me. Arriving on Nghi Tam, we shuffled down the stairs to the cellar, a dimly-lit brick room with three low wooden tables and a whimsical mural of cartoon ants on the wall. But my first visit was more about drinking rice wine than eating, so I recently went back for a more sober examination of Quan Kien’s culinary treats.
A Question of Ants Opened in 2009 by journalist-turnedbusinesswoman, Thuy Anh, and her husband, Quan Kien is a family affair. I met with her brother, Son, who bartends at the restaurant’s newly opened second location in Hai Ba Trung. He told me that his sister is always busy travelling the remote corners of Vietnam, searching for new regional recipes to put on the menu, with most of their ingredients sourced from their farm in Ba Vi. Their goal is to preserve traditional Vietnamese cuisine, with an added modern twist. The most
PHOTOS BY VU BAO KHANH
infamous of these foods is also where the restaurant gets its name: ants. Son insisted I try their Ant Eggs in Sticky Rice (VND120,000), and though I am highly skeptical of munching on bugs, I’ll do almost anything for a story. In preparation for the ants to come, Son brought out an array of house-made rice wines. The restaurant makes nearly 20 different varieties, from rose apple to yellow daisy to passion fruit, with bottles starting at an affordable VND55,000. It’s only fitting that their motto is, “Let’s get drunk together”. After a healthy tasting of rice wines, I was ready for the bugs. And I have to admit, the ants were delicious. The tiny white ant eggs were nestled among warm sticky rice, juicy chopped mushrooms, pork, chilli, lemongrass and fried onions, served with crispy rice crackers for scooping up all the savoury goodness. There was a distinct flavour to it that I still can’t place, but that must just be what ants taste like. Our photographer Khanh even found a grownup fire ant in his scoop of rice, which he proceeded to show to everyone on his chopstick before swallowing it whole.
My favourite dish by far, though, were the grilled scallops with onion (VND85,000). Each little shell is stuffed with peanuts, scallions, fried onions, and a secret sauce which Son declined to tell me about (this place has a lot of delicious secrets). Served with wasabi-soy sauce to drizzle on top, I could eat an entire plate of these in one sitting. But my stomach space was growing ever more scarce, as the duck breast and morning glory salad (VND82,000) competed for room. Colourful and crunchy, with succulent chunks of cold duck breast and a surprise kick from hidden chilli slices, this salad has everything you could ever want. It’s sweet and sour, light and filling, and there are even peanuts in the mix that give it some added bulk. Bonus: It’s huge, and could easily feed two to three people. Quan Kien’s affordable, authentic fare is perfect for dinner parties and leaving dos, or impressing those friends from overseas who finally came to visit you. Plan a night here when you want to get drunk, adventurous and very, very full. — Jesse Meadows Quan Kien is at 143 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Hanoi
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 147
STUDENT EYE FOOD FOR THOUGHT
A
s teenagers at the peak of curiosity and discovery, we tend to come up with weird ideas that are disturbing to some. Obscure thoughts and questions pop up in our heads. For example: “What would our brains look like on a plate?” First rule of thumb: it’s important to not take us too literally, or seriously. This question is meant to be taken lightly. If you could translate your thoughts into a food, what would it be? “You would be a jackfruit,” said my best friend gleefully, “because you [your opinions] are all ‘spiky’ and you sometimes strike people wrong.” I assume she’s saying that I’m not the most politically correct person in class, but at least I have a sweet side. I then retaliated by pointing out that sitting across of us was someone with a big plate of spaghetti and meatballs in his head. Which meant twisted and tangled-up logic with hard and unforgiving chunks of conservatism. He, of course, disagreed and chose in his turn another victim which he named an orange, then there was an apple, Swiss cheese, etc. The comparisons were endless. Besides serving to turn a boring orientation class into something much more entertaining, this conversation made it truly obvious that we all come packaged differently. Gastronomically speaking, meatball spaghettis and jackfruits don’t really complement each other. In fact, they taste awful together. The point being, can we overcome our differences?
The Inefficiency of Language Last week in philosophy
BY TO THU PHUONG
— yes, we have philosophy in our high school curriculum, as if worrying about our own problems wasn’t enough, we now have to worry about Aristotle and Sartre’s problems — we discussed humanity’s need to live in society and its difficulty in doing so. At the centre of the problems was language; a tool seemingly invented to ease comprehension between individuals. Yet it often complicates it. It’s the reason my whole class spent 20 minutes trying to express an idea to our teacher and also the reason why I’m sitting here banging my head against the keyboard. “To overcome this problem, it’s important that we present our ideas with clarity and precision,” says my teacher. Even in French, a language noted for its precision, it’s often difficult to pour out one’s thoughts in the way wanted. School is meant to narrow this gap, to tame and conciliate the jackfruit and all other types of mentality, to have them exchange efficiently. But what happens when you’ve reached the end of high school and the gap still remains wide?
Can We Live With It? Have you ever felt the frustration of not getting something across to a person you love? For instance when you’re desperate to find an answer to your problems by confiding in your parents? Collision. It so happens that they’re not from the same generation and their thoughts aren’t made of the same materials as yours. You say green, they say blue, you say apple, they say grapefruit. The scission’s already begun even before you’ve reached the legal age to move out. The same things happen at school. Once you’re at the
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end of the road, they gradually stop giving you the answers because there are none, as of yet. Suddenly you’re all alone
with a communication tool that is imperfect. But hey, for what it’s worth, there’s plenty of ground to explore.
Hanoi On the Town
ant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls. MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL
xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout. PANE E VINO PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
facebook.com/panevinoHN
Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.
The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470
PIZZA 4P’S
There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides. Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town.
pizza4ps.com
mooseandroo.com
NAMASTE HANOI PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it. NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier. OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337
hanoixua.vn/en
Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh
JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444 Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local ingredients. POTS ‘N PANS CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. PRESS CLUB CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355
meal times. THE CART
BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO
67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem
SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ
8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
thecartfood.com
Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.
BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA
1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) COM RANG DUA BO
57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da MIEN TRON HANH MIXED GLASS NOODLES
THE KAFE CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE
18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245
thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.
7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES
54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO
48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem PHO CUON HUNG BEN PHO CUON
26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh
WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718
PHO GA BA LAM
The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.
PHO GA HANG DIEU
wrap-roll.com
M M M STREETFOOD
PHO GA
7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem
PHO GA
1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO
49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO
10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC
3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM
SAUTEED BEEF PHO
13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
PHO TRON BANH CUON HANG GA BANH CUON
14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem
MIXED PHO
5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem
BANH DA TRON BANH DA TRON
6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
PHO TU LUN PHO BO
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem BANH MI 25 STREETSIDE BANH MI
25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem
XOI HANG HOM STICKY RICE
44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem BIT TET NGON SO 5 VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK
20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh
sainthonore.com.vn
This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at PHOTO BY VU BAO KHANH
MEDICAL BUFF COUGHS IN CHILDREN UNDER TWO
BY DR. PHILIPPE COLLIN
T
here is a significant increase in children under the age of two having check-ups or receiving daily treatment as we move into autumn. Coughing is one of the most common symptoms in children under two years of age and is one of the main reasons why parents seek medical attention at FMP Hanoi. In most children, acute coughing is due to a viral upper respiratory tract infection (URTI), i.e., the common cold. Preschool and school children might suffer from acute respiratory infections six to eight times a school year, and can cough up to 140 times daily with a URTI. A cough can sound awful, but it’s not usually a sign of a serious condition. In fact, coughing is a healthy and important natural reaction which helps protect the airways in the throat and chest. It is our body’s natural reflex and essential defence serving to drain the channels which help us breath. A young child in good health will on average have seven to 10 episodes per year from respiratory infections associated with a cough.
Different Kinds of Coughs Barky Barky coughs are usually caused by a swelling in the upper part of the airway. Most of the time, a barky cough comes from croup, a swelling of the larynx (voice box) and trachea (windpipe). Daytime Cold air or activity can make coughs worse during the daytime. Try to make sure that nothing in your house — like air freshener, pets, or smoke (especially tobacco smoke) — is making your child cough. Fever A child who has a cough, mild fever, and runny nose probably has a common cold. Night-time Lots of coughs get worse at night. When your child has a cold, the mucus from the nose and sinuses can drain down the throat and trigger a cough during
150 | Word November 2015 | wordvietnam.com
sleep. This is only a problem if the cough prevents your child from sleeping.
— Keep a fresh and ventilated atmosphere (19°C to 20°C) in their room
Persistent Coughs caused by colds due to viruses can last weeks, especially if a child has one cold right after another. Vomiting Kids often cough so much that it triggers their gag reflex, making them throw up.
Do Not
Wheezing If your child makes a wheezing (whistling) sound when breathing out (exhaling), this could mean that the lower airways in the lungs are swollen. This can happen with asthma or with the viral infection, bronchiolitis. Wheezing also can happen if the lower airway is blocked by a foreign object. Whooping Another name is pertussis, an infection of the airways caused by the bacteria bordetella pertussis. Kids with pertussis will have spells of back-to-back coughs without breathing in between.
Providing Comfort — Wash the nose gently with saline, several times a day (especially before meals and at bedtime). — Use disposable tissues and wash your hands before and after with water and soap (or with a hydro-alcoholic solution). — Let them drink regularly.
— Do not smoke in the home even outside the room where your child sleeps. — Never give cough medicine to children under two years old without the advice of your doctor For most children, coughs will disappear naturally over 10 to 14 days. Some may slip into three to four weeks without complication. It is therefore important to respect the cough characteristic and not to try to suppress it by using cough medicines preventing the evacuation of mucus and sputum.
When to Consult your Doctor? — If your child has difficulty breathing or feeding — If your child under three months has a fever (above 38˚C) — If their behaviour is unusual (discomfort, pain...) — If fever persists for more than three days — If other symptoms appear (diarrhea, vomiting, rashes...) — If the cough persists for more than a week without improvement Dr. Philippe Collin is a French pediatrician at Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on vietnammedicalpractice.com
BOOK BUFF MYTH BUSTERS
N
ovember is often celebrated by men who are able to grow swathes of facial hair between lip and nose as Movember. At Bookworm, where a few of our staff are facially hirsute, we will use the month to celebrate female writers who have won, or who deserve to win, literature’s highest award.
The 2015 Nobel Prize for Literature The pedestal belongs to Belarusian author Svetlana Alexievich who was recently awarded the prize. The awards committee cited her literary output as a monument to suffering and courage in our time. Alexievich writes in Russian and hopefully, soon, translations of her novels will be igniting our shelves. Some of her novels are forbidden in Russia and Belarus due to the author’s occasional position as an ‘unremembered’ person in those countries. This is due to what the Poles call her literature faktu style — her factual approach that aims to recover real experience from myths or political spin. Arguably, her most celebrated novel is War’s Unwomanly Face, a work about the experiences of female Soviet soldiers in World War Two. It sold over two million copies in Russia when it was published in 1985 in the midst of perestroika. All of Alexievich’s novels use several voices to tease through the spin and the one I’ve recently digested that caused a bout of being unremembered was The Zinky Boys, which explores the ordinary Russian experience during the country’s abortive incursion into Afghanistan. The book’s title refers to the zinc coffins in which over 50,000 young men were transported back to their Russian homelands. Alexievich was a journalist in Minsk during the 1986 Chernobyl disaster and her
2005 published novel Voices from Chernobyl: the Oral History of a Nuclear Disaster has often been referred to by critics when reviewing her Nobel fame.
Biblical Excursion Geraldine Brooks started off as an Australian investigative journalist in the Middle East, Africa and the Balkans. After marrying an American and adopting US citizenship, she put her prowess with words to work writing award winning historical novels. She won the Pulitzer Prize for her remarkable story March, which followed the fictional travails of the father of the girls in Louisa Alcott’s Little Women when he served as a doctor in the American Civil War. After converting to Judaism, she decided to turn to the Old Testament. Her latest novel, The Secret Chord, tells the story of the reign of King David through the eyes of David’s favoured philosopher friend, the prophet Natan. Brooks does not avoid gruesome or salacious details in this immersive novel and even those who know the story of David inside out will be held in a tight grip. Like Alexeivich, she believes in the power of good fiction. As she said in a recent lecture series, “I know it has power because the jailers and the despots are so afraid of it.”
Family Myths A short-lister in this year’s Man Booker Prize was A Spool Of Blue Thread by Anne Tyler. Tyler has spent most of her prize winning literary output tolerantly describing ordinary family lives in the city of Baltimore, families who often spend large amounts of time over family dinners. Like Alexievich, but in microcosmic scale, she investigates the myths that abound in and bind families together, sometimes for the worse. A Spool of Blue Thread is a warming
BY HOANG VAN TRUONG
though complex read that will please all of her fans.
Anarchy and Dystopia Canadian novelist, Margaret Atwood, could be considered the monarch of the satirical dystopian genre and in her recent novel, The Heart Goes Last, she looks at an America after a disastrous financial crash. The streets are alive with vicious gangs and Atwood concentrates her story on a hapless couple, Charmaine and Stan, who attempt to escape the rape, murder and mayhem by volunteering to spend the rest of their lives in a new suburban utopia, the gated community of Consilience. The catch is that the citizens of Consilience agree to spend alternating months in a spick and span, though boring, urban environment and in cramped and seething male and female industrial prisons. It is also a corporation that aims to make huge profits using slave labour (including sex slavery) and one that kills off any citizens that facial imagery technology assesses as dangerous to the corporate good. They are killed and their organs harvested for sale. Atwood, as in most of her novels, is concerned with the emotions we associate with the heart and through Charmaine she investigates questions such as love and free will in monogamous relationships. In a modern world where sexual fantasies can be viewed at will via porn sites, Atwood uses Stan to questions these dependencies. In Atwood’s satirical future scenario the human heart is something that corporations cynically make money out of. Fans of Atwood dystopia will recognize the headless poultry that populated Oryx and Crake. Truong is an avid reader and runs Bookworm (44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi) and Bookworm Weekend (6 Lane 1/28, Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi). For more information on go to bookwormhanoi.com
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 151
152 | Word November 2015 | wordvietnam.com
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T R AN Ham HUNG| November 2015 Word | 153 wordvietnam.com Lon DAO g Phan H
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Business Buff / Body and Temple / The Gym Diaries / Bar Stool / Coffe Cup / Top Eats 1 / Amazing Grapes / Top Eats 2 / A world of Good Photo by Kyle Phanroy 154 | Word November 2015 | wordvietnam.com
HCMC Essentials
BAKERIES
L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE
ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ
223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1
phamngulao.abcbakery.co
Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available. BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY
106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7
breadtalkvietnam.com
A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting. CRUMBS BAKERY & CAFE
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available. Excellent Australianstyle meat pies. HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY
harvestbaking.net
With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details.
Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS BAKERY & CAFE
180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
touslesjoursbakery.com
The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam. VOELKER BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.
M M M BOOKSHOPS FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1
fahasa.com
Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts.
Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
pnc.com.vn
Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.
M M M BUSINESS GROUPS
NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
ANUPA ECO LUXE
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.
amchamvietnam.com
auschamvn.org
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430
LEATHER & JEWELLERY
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394
anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm
BAM SKATE SHOP
bbgv.org
SKATEWEAR / STREET
CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754
Bamskateshop.com.vn
canchamvietnam.org LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858
facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.
Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826
BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN DESIGN & JEWELLERY
35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month. GINKGO VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired
SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
HUNG VUONG PLAZA
126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics
VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
BUSINESS BUFF WHERE’S THE MONEY?
BY SHANE DILLON
T
here are 1,826 dollar billionaires in the world. Vietnam has one — Mr Pham Nhat Vuong who ranks 1,118 in the billionaire list. He is the founder and chairman of Vingroup. Approved Index, a UK-based businessnetworking group, crunched the numbers from Forbes’ World’s Billionaires list in 2015 to find the most billionaire-dense nations. Large populations dilute the effect, so the U.S., despite having the largest overall number of billionaires (536), only ranks 13th on the list.
11) Norway Number of billionaires: 10 Population: 5,176,998 Population per one billionaire: 517,700 Norway is rich in natural resources and has a vibrant private sector as well as being the world’s third-largest natural gas exporter and seventh-largest oil exporter. It is also home to Stein Erik Hagen, who founded discount supermarket Rimi with his father in the 1970s. He and his family are worth $US4.5 billion (£2.8 billion).
10) Israel Number of billionaires: 17 Population: 8,358,100 Population per one billionaire: 491,653 Israel is big on cut diamonds, high-tech equipment and pharmaceuticals. Perhaps the most famous Israeli billionaire right now is bachelor Teddy Sagi, who made his money setting up gambling software maker Playtech. He has a net worth of $US3.5 billion (£2.2 billion).
9) Sweden Number of billionaires: 23 Population: 9,784,445 Population per one billionaire: 425,411 Sweden is famed for its high standard of living as well as its mixed system of high-tech capitalism and extensive welfare benefits. It has 23 billionaires as of this year. These include Swedish videogame programmer and designer Markus Alexej Persson, founder of the Mojang company which made the insanely popular Minecraft.
8) Iceland Number of billionaires: 1 Population: 329,740 Population per one billionaire: 329,740 Iceland used to have six billionaires on its shores before the financial crisis and now it is down to one — investor Thor Bjorgolfsson. However, due to Iceland’s small population, Iceland still stays in the top ten. Bjöggi, as
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British billionaire, Richard Branson
he is colloquially known in Iceland, is worth around $US1.28 billion (£817 million).
7) Singapore Number of billionaires: 19 Population: 5,469,700 Population per one billionaire: 287,879 Singapore is one of the world’s wealthiest countries with a highly developed and successful free-market economy. It is largely corruption-free. The island nation boasts 19 billionaires, including property tycoons Robert and Philip Ng with a net worth of $US8.6 billion (£5.5 billion).
6) Switzerland Number of billionaires: 29 Population: 8,256,000 Population per one billionaire: 284,690 Switzerland is the perfect breeding ground for billionaires with its highly skilled labour force and low corporate tax rates. It has low unemployment and high per-capita income. The richest man in Switzerland is Ernesto Bertarelli, who inherited pharmaceutical giant Serono. In 2007, he sold it to Merck for $US9 billion (£5.7 billion).
5) Cyprus Number of billionaires: 5 Population: 858,000 Population per one billionaire: 171,600 Cyprus’s economy tanked following the eurozone sovereign debt crisis of 2010 and has struggled to grow again. The Billionaires list records five billionaires on the island, although self-made billionaire Christos Lazari, worth $US2.2 billion (£1.4 billion), died in July.
4) Hong Kong Number of billionaires: 55 Population: 7,264,100 Population per one billionaire: 132,075 Hong Kong is the financial gateway into
mainland China, has a free-market economy and since it is dependent on international trade and finance, has become one of the most prominent financial centres in the world. Its richest resident is Li Ka-Shing, the self-made billionaire worth $US33.5 billion (£22.3 billion).
3) Guernsey Number of billionaires: 1 Population: 65,150 Population per one billionaire: 65,150 It’s surprising to see Guernsey in third spot, but it has a tiny population and its sole billionaire Stephen Lansdown is enough. Lansdown is worth $US2.1 billion (£1.3 billion) after co-founding British financial services firm, Hargreaves Lansdown.
2) St Kitts and Nevis Number of billionaires: 1 Population: 55,000 Population per one billionaire: 55,000 This two-island country in the West Indies was among the first places in the Caribbean to be settled by Europeans. Its sole billionaire is the elusive Jacky Xu, who is originally from China. He founded the Trendy International Group of Guangzhou in China.
1) Monaco Number of billionaires: 3 Population: 37,800 Population per one billionaire: 12,600 Monaco is the playground of the superrich due to its tax-haven status and small, exclusive population who enjoy a seriously high standard of living. It’s perhaps surprising that it counts only three billionaires as residents. Its richest person is fine-art dealer David Nahmad with a net worth of $US1.85 billion (£1.2 billion). Shane can be contacted at shanedillon@ pacificcross.com
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES
AIRLINES
77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
LITTLE ANH-EM
AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING
37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories. L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles. MANDARINA TAILOR-MADE SHOES
KOREAN AIR koreanair.com
171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267
BUDGET CLOTHING
MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com
152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620
9am to 10pm
VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com
overlandclub.jp
The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days. SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946
atc-craft.com
PAPAYA BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556
triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS
42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.
VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com
OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
ATC FURNITURE ORANGE
LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com
COOKING CLASSES
80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.
CHI LAI HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach
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BODY
AND
TEMPLE
“IT’S TIME…”
BY PHIL KELLY
I
t probably hasn’t escaped your attention that the end of the year will soon be upon us. The main event, as UFC fight announcer Bruce Buffer might call it, is closing in fast. As I think about the holiday season festivities, madness and socializing I hear Bruce’s distinct voice screaming his catch phrase… “Iiiiiiiiits tiiiiiime!!” As I see it, you have a grand total of seven productive weeks left in 2015. That takes us right up to Christmas week. Be honest — you’re probably not going to be doing much between then and the end of the year other than shopping, eating, drinking and falling asleep in front of the TV. Now is the perfect time to make positive changes to look and feel your best. Seven weeks might not sound like much. But if you’re willing to clean up your diet and train hard at least three times a week, it’s long enough to make a big difference to the way you look and feel. If you want to finish the year with less fat, more energy, better skin and more muscle then “It’s Time!”
Cutting the CRAP The easiest way to start is to stop consuming: carbonated drinks of all kinds, refined grains, artificial sweeteners and colours and all processed foods, known in the trade as CRAP foods for short. As soon as a client cuts the CRAP from their diet, they lose a lot of weight. The reason for this is the fact that CRAP is toxic, irritating or devitalising to the human body, putting it in a stressed state that makes it difficult to lose fat, build muscle and produce sustained energy. Eating CRAP foods provides calories that you can survive on, but your cells are effectively starving due to minimal nutrient content. They also put your body in an inflamed, acidic and toxic state. When there are too many harmful substances in the system that your body can’t effectively detoxify, the excess of harmful substances is pushed into fat tissue for storage. It will stay there until your system can cope with and then eliminate these toxins and chemicals. When you start to provide your cells with the nutrients they need to operate correctly and thrive, your body will rebalance and no longer require these chemical / toxin banks (adipose tissue), so the fat generally leaves the body along with the harmful substances. It is really as easy as eating good natural real FOOD (Fruits and vegetables — mostly vegetables — organic lean protein, omega-3 fatty acids and drink water. In Vietnam’s often hot and humid climate, drinking enough pure water is doubly important.)
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Put the following actions into place over the next seven weeks and you will be amazed at the results:
Switch to FOOD 1) Cut the CRAP (carbonated drink (of all kinds), refined grains, artificial sweeteners and colours (you must read labels) and all processed foods 2) Nurture the health of your cells / body by eating FOOD (fruits and lots of vegetables), organic lean protein, omega-3 fatty acids and drink water 3) Boost nutrients and alkaline substances in your body in the morning
Get off your BUTT 1) Move — this means stop sitting all day.
Stand at your desk, take a walk in the morning, lunchtime and/or evening. Aim to move for a total of at least two hours per day 2) Work out with a high volume, using whole body multi-joint exercises and short rest periods three times per week 3) Get adequate sleep — sleep is where your body reaps the rewards from your efforts. It is when the detoxification processes take place If you want to feel better, have more energy, lose fat, be sexier and have more self-confidence, then don’t wait. The main event is coming… it’s time. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
HCMC Essentials
and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories. EM EM SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES
51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS
35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459
8am to 8pm
MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115
nhaxinh.com
REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE
CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development. JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM
384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3
jett-cycles.com
The showroom home of Jett Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114
xedapcaocap.com
Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs. THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405
thebikeshopvn.com
The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories. Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals. Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.
M M M DENTAL CLINICS ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
remixdeco.com
accadent.com
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 159
HCMC Essentials
M M M ELITE DENTAL GROUP. 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 3737
info@elitedental.com.vn elitedental.com.vn
Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics. Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.
GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.
DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS
Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100
maplehealthcare.net
Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service. MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399
STARLIGHT CLINIC
DENTAL
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien,Q2
starlightdental.net
Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.
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Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. CLASSIC FINE FOODS No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.
GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications. HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions.
San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
M M M GROCERIES & LIQUOR ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI
16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao
CRICKET
astere@hotmail.fr
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353
SAIGON RAIDERS
richard.car rington@ market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038
MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565
meatworksasia.com
Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products.
saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
samie.cashmiri@gmail. com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824
sacccricket@gmail.com
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598
manish@ambrij.com
FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230
vietnamswans.com 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
SPORTS — GENERAL
THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP
Saigonraiders.com
deepteshgill@gmail.com
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090
PHUONG HA SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059
SPORTS
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
galeriequynh.com
san-art.org
WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC
Annam-gourmet.com
GROCERIES & IMPORTER
DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 MAPLE HEALTHCARE
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON
gauloisdesaigon.com
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE
saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB
saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
water and spirits. VEGGY’S GROCERS & DELI
29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.
M M M HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926
on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment. JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.
Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails. Cheap prices, too.
CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625
SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.
catmocspa.com
Conceptcoiffure.vn
FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827
famenails.com
GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area. HAIR BAR CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out
spatropic.com
M M M HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery. AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
americaneyecentervn.com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-cer-
tified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available. CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC
1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000
vietnammedicalpractice.com
Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care. FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations. HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong
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HCMC Essentials
Tel: (0650) 363 6068
hanhphuchospital.com
Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424
specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362
insuranceinasia.com
Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. For emergencies call 0903 732365
internationalsos.com
The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.
LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998
libertyinsurance.com.vn
International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more.
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS
99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE
187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545
victoriavn.com
Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and
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BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor, Continental Tower, 8185 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9908
bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367
ten-pac.com
A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.
M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833
theabcis.com
Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment. AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life.
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.
academic excellence. Has a newly built campus. KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944
kidsclubsaigon.com
Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.
eishcmc.com
The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.
Energized Engaged Empowered
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
A fully accredited IB World School, authorised to teach all three programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully accredited by both the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC), two of the most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different nationalities.
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
saigonkidskindergarten.com
SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students. SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP) 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788
issp.edu.vn
Set in a purpose-built campus, International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 years. With 90 percent of their teachers having master’s degrees, they are able to promise a vigorous American curriculum while including specialist subjects such as music, art, sport and languages.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.
Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels. SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
tas.edu.vn
Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.
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HCMC Essentials
M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome. HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales. RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.
M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS
the website for details. Also does visa extensions. SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273
nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com
Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS
77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690
saigonscootercentre.com
Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.
M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office. HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.
vieclambank.com
VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.
185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446
M M M
Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check
RELOCATION AGENTS
chiscafe.com
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ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.
M M M SERVICED APARTMENTS
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799
asiantigers-mobility.com
Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field. LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo. com for info.
No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111
TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.
EXILE INK 608
57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956
exileinkvietnam.com SAIGON BODY ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.
SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle. SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.
saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn TATTOO SAIGON
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat. com
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.
M M M SPORTS & FITNESS
4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run. SHERATON FITNESS HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE HEALTH CLUB & GYM
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership. STAR FITNESS GYM
CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620
laholista.com
Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms. THE LANDMARK CLUB GYM, POOL, SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTRE BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326
cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com
In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM
Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612
facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn
A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).
M M M VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771
vietnameselanguagegarden. com VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.
M M M SPORTS GARMENTS
SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588
score-tech.net
Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.
CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals. SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually
CGV CINEMAS
Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388
cgv.vn
THE GYM DIARIES
Word staff writer Owen Salisbury has started to take his fitness seriously: he’s hired a trainer. Here’s the first in a series of columns where we follow Owen in his attempt get muscles like beachballs
T
his is the story of how I turned from a chubby schlub into a serene, balanced, healthy individual making positive life choices, who also happens to be a jacked, cut and served slab of prime Grade A hypermasculine man-beef. Hopefully, anyway. As I write this, I’ve only just started. I still have the belly, I still live the stress, I still have a Yugo of an immune system. Think positive, though. As you read this, I’m a few weeks into a life-changing experiment with my personal trainer, Daniele Moretti. Here’s my diary.
Day One I am surrounded by grunting, muscular Vietnamese guys. Even the one with a gut
struts on legs like pillars, with shoulders that could bear a Nouvo. My legs burn. My gut jiggles as my chest heaves. Sweat drops from my face, soaks my shirt. I’m not even carrying weights. I feel like an idiot. “It’ll pass,” Daniele says.
The Crucial First Days The first days are all assessment. Daniele demonstrates a motion, then inspects my crude imitations. He adjusts my posture and tells me some rule of thumb — always have knees and toes pointing the same direction when doing squats — then adjusts me again when my form deteriorates. Form is crucial. Daniele doesn’t compromise, nor allow me to cheat. It takes a while to find the sweet spot, though when
I do I recognize it. While the basics are the same for everybody, the specifics depend on your body. Everybody squats with a straight back; the width of your stance depends on your unique biomechanics. I do a side-squat. My knee cheats out. He spots it, encouraging me when I get it right. Soldiering on, I feel inept. I dislike that intensely.
Basic Motions Since I want to get healthy, my routine is based on full-body motions. Lose fat, build muscle, boost energy, work the heart and lungs. We do six basic motions: squats, lunges, hinges, pushes, pulls and various sorts of rotation. Many exercises are body weight only — think push-ups or pull-ups. “That’s enough for your goals,” Daniele
PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY
assures me. There will be no curls, no vanity exercises to sculpt my biceps.
Days Four, Five and Six Second week of training. We shift our schedule, and end up doing three days in a row. The first two are good; the third I’m slightly hungover and utterly drained. I look like a vampire’s lunch. Daniele is relentlessly positive, but not mindlessly. “The building blocks are there,” he says. “Now we have to get those blocks in place.” He pushes, but is adamant that recovery is as fundamental as exercise. Knowing your limits is a must. “We’ll do an active recovery day,” he says on the third day. Active recovery involves stretching, body weight exercises,
movement without stress. I still can’t last the hour. He pushes me to dizziness and discomfort, then lets me go. I don’t quite want to puke.
Through Exercise Alone Exercise alone isn’t enough to rebuild your health. I get the supplements he suggests: multivitamins, zinc, magnesium, B12, fish oils, melatonin because I’m an insomniac. Another essential part of recovery is having the correct nutrients to rebuild the torn muscles denser and tighter. Metaphorically, I’ve begun tearing down a decrepit house. Rebuilding requires matériel; I take mine with food because zinc on an empty stomach is encapsulated nausea.
A Minor Epiphany This series came about partly because one of my students poked my belly, saying “Teacher has baby!” When that happens, it’s time to fitness up. Because I’d met Daniele around then, this column seemed obvious. Yet an odd thing happened at the start of week three. I text Dan about how much I need this, need to turn things around. “Glad you’re experiencing that eureka moment so early,” he texts back. The next day, I realise I’ve moved my belt up two notches already. More vitally, I feel better. The gym is becoming a fun place. “Understand your goals, understand your context,” Daniele says. I think I finally do.
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HCMC On The Town
BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists. APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back. BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR
90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588
biacraft.com
As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu. BLANCHY’S TASH
With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). BROMA, NOT A BAR
BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452
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LE PUB
SPORTS BAR
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898
175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.
gameonsaigon.com
A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. BUDDHA BAR
HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE
LONG PHI
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
hoavien.vn
The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer.
RESTOBAR
7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys. CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city. D2 SPORTS BAR
55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack? A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check out their daily food specials.
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details.
GAME ON
ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR
24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports. LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR
6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes. LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR
44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.
EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR
Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
eon51.com
Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Night live music and DJs.
LAST CALL AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122
lastcallsaigon.com
If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.
207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine. MAY RESTAURANT & BAR LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR
19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
mayrestaurant.com.vn
An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space. NUMBER FIVE EXPAT BAR
44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music. OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR
Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.
DELIVERY BEN STYLE
Tel: 0906 912730
www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn EAT.VN www.eat.vn
HUNGRYPANDA. VN
www.hungrypanda.vn KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam. com.vn
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn
PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com
TACO BICH www.tacobich.com
O’BRIEN’S IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL
74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor
VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com
with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience. PEACHES CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.
SHRINE BAR
THE ORIENT
LOUNGE BAR
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR
61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1
24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere.
An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.
shrinebarsaigon.com
SEVENTEEN SALOON THEMED MUSIC BAR
PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites. RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks. SAIGON OUTCAST
103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here. SPOTTED COW INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR
188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets. SAIGON RANGER
STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738
Stormp.vn
Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. A good place to watch the live sports.
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559
facebook.com/saigonranger
Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.
THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin. THE OBSERVATORY
SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR
9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.
BAR, ART & DJ SPACE
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.
to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.
M M M
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE
CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanese-style interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker. AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE
11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm.
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and Germaninfluenced cuisine to supplement the drinks. VINYL BAR MUSIC & SPORTS BAR
70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960sera apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai
A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League. WINE BAR 38 CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass. WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines. XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR
71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes
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BAR STOOL BIA CRAFT
M
ark Gustafson might be the most popular man in town right now. Everywhere he goes he keeps getting thanked. Thanked for helping bring craft beer to Ho Chi Minh City, thanked for opening up a location in Thao Dien, and thanked for giving an opportunity to new brewers. It’d be sickening if he didn’t deserve it. Having already been through it once, it could have easily gone to his head by now. (Mark is also one of the guys behind ‘Ut Ut’, for which he nearly received a knighthood last year — such was the positive response). However Mark has remained humble (the damn fool), and is keen to share the credit with his business partners and their partners in this venture — distributors of fine ales, Zebrafish.
A Perfect Storm I ask him if he’s been surprised by the success of Bia Craft. “Not really,” he starts, but he’s far from cocky. “We knew the demand was there,
PHOTOS BY CHARLES VON PRESLEY
it was just a matter of finding a location.” Turns out the current, and what is no doubt soon to be referred to as ‘the original’ Bia Craft, came about by a confluence of circumstance. “I was already brewing for my restaurant, Zebrafish were planning to expand their tasting room, Pasteur Street had arrived, and a bunch of other people were already making their own brews.” And so about three months ago, Bia Craft opened up and Thao Dien has got its very own dedicated craft beer hangout.
The people have spoken Serving ten small-batch ‘crafties’ on tap, and a growing number of imported ales, it’s fair to say that this ‘review’ is pretty much redundant, because the people have already spoken. The only complaint they’ve had is that the place isn’t big enough. Drive past it on Xuan Thuy on just about any night of the week, and you’ll see a hive of activity, now including a range of bar snacks that you’ll be happy to take
home. It even has a home in its fridge for some bottles of Coopers Pale Ale, which is tantamount to bribery to someone from Adelaide — me being a serious journalist and all that. If you pop in, what you’ll find is a warm place and a warm atmosphere smattered with regulars, but plenty of newbies as well. Here it doesn’t matter who you are or where you come from, though the focus is squarely on the product and the people who drink it. There are no TVs and no issues finding friends not to watch it with, because chances are you’ll be sitting next to one in a matter of minutes! This month Mark recommends a new addition to the roster, The Stone Hill Cocoa Cider. It’s aged over 12 months by its Vietnamese makers to produce what his website calls “a sweet, mead-like cider, with hints of stone fruit and a note of chocolate on the finish”. Hey Mark, thanks! — Jon Aspin Bia Craft is at 90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC or online at biacraft.com
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COFFEE CUP LE CAFE DE LA MER
T
he district of Thao Dien hides a large number of gems where one can relax and forget about the stress of downtown Saigon. One of the latest retreats to be added to this list is Cafe de la Mer. The name says it all — resembling what many of us may think of as the classic idyllic beach bar that many of us would think of. With a refreshing contrast of white and blue, the cafe design and atmosphere definitely help you cool down your mind. It's made up of two different spaces, an interior where you can avoid the hot hours and an exterior where you can chill on their benches, perfect for enjoying those merry after-work drinks. The concept that the owner wants to create for this white beach oasis is a place for people to relax and enjoy each other’s company without the noise that other venues might offer. Every once in a while, for no particular reason, they organize
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PHOTOS BY CHARLES VON PRESLEY & FRANCIS XAVIER
random events — or ‘little surprises’ as one of the managers prefers to call them. Recently they hosted the Humans of Saigon exhibition, which was a great success. Follow their Facebook page and stay tuned for upcoming events.
Under Construction Cafe de la Mer can be considered a Vietnamese business from head to toe; they often hire students who, after a while, will stop working because they can’t handle the pressure of studying and working at the same time. The staff was friendly and warm, although a better trained and more skilled workforce would help. This is certainly an area where there is room for improvement, although the cafe seems to be doing well anyway. When it comes to their goodies, they have an extensive menu with a wide range of Vietnamese favourites. A list of vegetarian alternatives is also included.
You will find it difficult to choose between the large and original selection of drinks priced from VND55,000 to VND85,000, including an impressive variety of coffees, teas and juices. Their coffee with a hint of cinnamon was very enjoyable as was their berry tea with mint. Both equally healthy and yummy! Food prices range from VND95,000 to VND250,000. My meal started with a refreshing octopus salad with plums, followed by some grilled chicken skewers with star fruit and a set of flavoursome lemongrass beef skewers. The winner of the veggie treats was a mild coconut curry, which was missing a bit of spice, though. This was altogether a satisfying foodie episode at this suburban beach haven. But bear in mind that they are still developing. — Natalia Martinez Le Cafe de La Mer is at 61 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC
HCMC On The Town
Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE
213 Bui Vien, Q1
facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar. COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth. DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR
23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830
guanabanasmoothies.com
An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.
HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair. I.D. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee. L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703
Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation. PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM
8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS
49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven.
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi. M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495
THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town. MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.
THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE
158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2. ASHOKA
THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN
Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.
ashokaindianrestaurant. com
facebook.com/thingscafe
17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.
M M M EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution. 27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix. AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.
AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.
The downtown outlet of
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TOP EATS MEKONG MERCHANT
V
enture through the entrance of Mekong Merchant and you will find yourself in an open-air rustic patio where two verdant trees dominate the sky and lend a cooling shade to the whole place. “We want to make people feel at home,” says Albert Van Der Westhuizen, the general manager of The Deck Group, which Mekong Merchant belongs to, and it’s surely what they have achieved. Divided into different ambiences — inside with aircon, or outside — the whole concept gives the feel of a countryside oasis typical of the Mekong Delta, designed in a simple yet charming style. It is easily one of the best spots in District 2 to chill and escape from the mayhem of the city. A Western-influenced menu characterizes the restaurant, without forgetting that the main ingredients come from Vietnam. And it has recently introduced a new dinner menu; new courses have been added to the list, including fabulous desserts. All of them offer healthy portions at reasonable prices.
The Good Stuff There is a wide range of juices and smoothies with which to start — my choices were banana, raspberry and orange (VND95,000) and peaches, yogurt and
PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER
honey (VND75,000). They were all equally delicious. This Thao Dien landmark brings to the table a Mediterranean experience with their tapas selection. The tapas platter (VND230,000) is perfect to share with Parma ham, Parmesan chunks and some olive tapenade, hummus and sun-dried tomatoes with homemade wholemeal and flat bread. This can be followed by the highly recommendable clams with beans, chickpeas and chorizo — an unusual but excellent combination for refined palates (VND190,000). The tapas were followed by a set of duck wraps (VND150,000) with hints of ginger and hoisin sauce, which did not captivate me as I felt it was missing out on some flavour. The main courses made up for it, though, especially the sizzling Australian beef fillet (VND600,000) with pepper sauce and mouth-watering mashed potato — its buttery and smooth texture was terrific. Complementing this dish with its beautiful presentation, the grain salad side dish fills an important role. The chicken (VND280,000) — which was offered as a complementary option — didn’t quite strike us the right way. The idea was fine, but perhaps the charcoal grill had played a mean trick on it the day we visited.
However, the homemade pesto which accompanied it helped out considerably. The delightful presentation of all these plates was remarkable from beginning to end, as was the impeccably friendly service.
Room for Dessert? One tip is to avoid getting all stuffed with starters and main courses, and leave some room for dessert as there is a wide selection of tempting treats. Try the original apple crumble with vanilla ice cream and waterlily stems (VND125,000) or the layered chocolate peanut brownie (VND135,000), both heavenly dishes. For the adventurous sweet tooth there is a new delicacy to sample; salted caramel with pistachio flakes (VND145,000). For those who are looking for something new every day, the restaurant’s specials might be your thing, and are available for both lunch and dinner. Another good call is their Monday to Friday happy hour, when you can avail yourself of Tiger Draught and Saigon Red for VND20,000, as well as a 50 percent discount on a selection of wines. Who needs any more reasons to include Mekong Merchant on their to-do list? Mekong Merchant is at 23 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC
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AMAZING GRAPES SEMILLON SAUVIGNON BLANC BLENDS
Y
ou don’t have to know much about wine to know that Sauvignon Blanc currently rules the roost as the white wine variety of choice. Driven by the pungent, zesty, tropical fruit bombs from New Zealand, it seems that the world can’t get enough. It may surprise you to know that this is a very recent phenomenon and that in Bordeaux, the home of the Sauvignon Blanc grape, it is usually blended with Semillon and sometimes Muscadelle. White Bordeaux wines can be loosely grouped into three main styles. Light, dry and fruity with no oak. Rich, complex, creamy and oaked. Unctuous, honeyed and sweet. Long before critics swooned at the sight of Kiwi Sauv Blanc, Bordeaux Blanc was revered as one of the great
BY JIM CAWOOD
went on to win the trophy at the Perth Royal wine show for Best Dry White Wine the same year. This wine captured the imagination of the region’s producers and pretty soon Cape Mentelle, Vasse Felix and Lenton Brae, to name a few, were producing the style. What make this blend of grapes so appealing is that you get the wonderful herbaceous and and tropical fruit characters of the Sauvignon Blanc combined with the citrus, mineral and grassy flavours of the Semillon. The wines have great length and body and as such make excellent wines with a very wide range of cuisines. They are more complex and sometimes have the potential to age for up to a decade. The wine world is always looking
“What make this blend of grapes so appealing is that you get the wonderful herbaceous and and tropical fruit characters of the Sauvignon Blanc combined with the citrus, mineral and grassy flavours of the Semillon” white wines of the world. At the turn of the 20th century, plantings of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux outnumbered those of red varieties by a large majority. But now, white accounts for only 15 percent of the total production in the Bordeaux appellation. How did this happen? Wine trends are a funny thing and as demand for red Bordeaux has grown in international markets since the 1970s, growers uprooted their white varieties to increase their red wine production.
Antipodean Revival
Produced in Australia. Alcoholic volume: 14.5%
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The Margaret River wine region in Western Australia was founded following research by Dr. John Gladstone which stated that the terroir of the Geographe Peninsula area bore an uncanny resemblance to that of Bordeaux. As such the main Bordeaux varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc were the first to be planted. Cullen was the first WA producer to release a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc wine in 1979. It was fresh, full of fruit and had great length. This same wine
for the next big thing. For white wine, sweet Riesling once ruled the roost, this was followed by buttery, oaky Chardonnay. Now we are reaching the end of the tropical fruit cocktails that are Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc. The next big white in my opinion is sophisticated, food friendly, and refreshing Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blends.
Vasse Felix Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2014 A blend of 63% Sauvignon Blanc and 37% Semillon, 23% of which is fermented in new French Oak. Beautifully aromatic with flavours of citrus, pear, tropical fruits and nettles. Gently savoury, thanks to the oak fermentation, the wine has a long subtle spicy finish. A great wine for a wide range of cuisines from Asia to the Mediterranean. Personally, I would be looking for some good quality sushi or sashimi. Jim Cawood has been working in the wine industry for over two decades. He is presently man-at-the-helm at his District 2 restaurant, Lubu
HCMC On The Town
BAAN THAI PAN-THAI
55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs. BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN
164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.
BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.
Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river. BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN
The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front. BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH
BLACK CAT AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle
soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service. CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for. CORSO
Tel: (08) 3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains. EL GAUCHO
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000. ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town.
HOANG YEN PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town.
EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN
Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
eon51.com
Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients.
HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace. INAHO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
HOA TUC
GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN
38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town. JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba
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TOP EATS PITCHERS, SPORTS AND GRILL
I
f you get into heated debates over rosters, rotations, off-side traps and LBWs, don’t be ashamed, it’s fine — you couldn’t be in a better place right now. That’s because in Ho Chi Minh City there’s a plethora of options for sports fans to indulge their habit in, but with the opening of Pitchers, Sports and Grill in Phu My Hung, when I say indulge, I really mean it. Open barely a month when we first dropped in, owner/operator Adam Zakharoff had seen an opportunity with the Rugby World Cup on. “I knew it was good timing,” he said. “So even though we were still finishing the place off, I had to get it open.”
The Rage It’s a decision rugby fans and residents of the Riverside Apartment complex have been thanking him for ever since, and I must admit that I have too, because if he’d
PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY
waited, I wouldn’t have had the chance to eat some of the best BBQ Pork Ribs (VND690,000 for a four-person platter) I’ve had in a long time. That, and a flat bread salami-based pizza he calls The Rage (VND180,000). I literally couldn’t get enough of this last item, not only because it was delicious, but three ‘friends’ turned up and decided it was too tasty for me to enjoy alone. Luckily, both of these plates were huge, and complemented my Famous Frank hotdog (VND150,000) nicely.
Air Hockey… Sweet! With all the sport and quality Australian beef flying around, you might be worried that this is a ‘blokes only’ affair. But fear not, Pitchers is quite the opposite, putting the emphasis on family fun, featuring a kids’ area with air hockey and foosball tables, both for free. As a fully formed big kid myself, not
having a game would have been rude. I can imagine a fun little Sunday playing these games between the breaks in the cricket. Anyway, for the record, Adam and I played out a hard fought 7-5 win by yours truly, which was followed by my immediate retirement from all forms of the game. Who doesn’t like finishing on top? All in all, Pitchers is a fun place, and is already proving popular with District 7 residents and air hockey fans alike. The place is light, breezy and easily accessible. The atmosphere is relaxed and there’s a wide selection of food and drink. It hits the right note between family fun, serious sports bar and quality casual dining. There’s even plans for a BBQ catering service and some local craft beer on tap soon. Well done Adam, I’ll be coming out of retirement next month. — Jon Aspin Pitchers, Sports and Grill is at C0.01, Riverside Apartments, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, HCMC
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HCMC On The Town
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks. KABIN
LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.
MARKET 39
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
LION CITY
Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.
lioncityrestaurant.com
marriott.com
KOH THAI
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION
Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs. KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot! L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team. LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.
LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN
29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727
loveat.vn
Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere. LU BU
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail. com
Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multifloored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.
MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD
LUONG SON
MOGAMBO
PAN-VIETNAMESE
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests.
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
MAD HOUSE
MONSOON
CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
facebook.com/madsaigon
NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent.
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO
21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints. QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace.
6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009
villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.
NINETEEN
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
Set over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful
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rustic décor is matched by a darkwood, aircon interior. Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence. Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour.
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
The longest running expat bar in town, these days Mogambo is more a restaurant than a drinking haunt thanks to its Cajun-inspired, American cuisine; Tex-Mex, excellent burgers, US-style soups and salads. Still furbished as it was 20 years ago.
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality. OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late.
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.
PACHARAN SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish. PENDOLASCO
REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL
The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.
PAN-ITALIAN
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282
RELISH & SONS
Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2.
facebook.com/relishandsons
pendolasco.vn
PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838
GOURMET BURGER BAR
44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 01207 214294 Some have described them as glamburgers, we describe them as creative burgers done well in a contemporary atmosphere. That is certainly the gloss you’ll find at Relish & Sons, along with funky draught beer options, cool refreshing cocktails and a range of all things burger. Their cheesy fries are to die for.
RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets. SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN
51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised. SAIGON CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch. SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN
Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513
sanfulou.com
Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further. SCOTT AND BINH’S INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients. SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining.
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events. SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room. SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food. SORAE
of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices. THE DECK MODERN ASIAN FUSION
38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list. THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE
144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout. TIN NGHIA VEGAN
9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.
SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE
Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
soraesushi.com
Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen. TAMAGO PAN-JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one
VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space. WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 181
A WORLD
OF
EXIT THROUGH THE GIFT SHOP
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
Three Hmong women weave material out of hemp in Ha Giang, the most northerly province of Vietnam. Ask nicely and they’ll sell you the material without the middle man
A
t this time of year our thoughts turn to holiday gift-giving (ack!). It may be that you’ve got family for whom you’d like to buy something ‘authentic’ or ‘meaningful’. Perhaps it’s client gifts, staff recognition or end-of-the-quarter teambuilding loot you’re after. What I’d urge you to do is to reconsider purchasing handicrafts. Before the glitter and buttons and paint starts to fly, there is a difference between artisans and amateurs. When you consider the making of handicrafts, think again about who is making them and why. Purchased any duct-tape belts made by a boy recently rescued from labour trafficking? How about a feed-bag repurposed as a wallet made by a man who is the victim of a landmine accident? Didn’t think so. But you have bought ribbon jewellery that includes a wee plaque with the words ‘brave’ or ‘courage’ or some such ‘empowering’ sentiment made by girls (and certainly women) to remind us of what’s ‘important’ in life. These are the handicrafts made by victims of domestic abuse, mental illness, substance abuse, sexualised violence, you name it. All intended to raise
182 | Word November 2015 | wordvietnam.com
‘much needed’ funds for the programme the girls (and certainly women) are in, to escape whatever they found themselves in previously. OK, love the programmes; hate the handicrafts.
A Stitch in Time? Is the path to socioeconomic development really through girls and women making tat with a daub of paint here (handcrafted!) or a quick-stitched something there (heritage goods!). I’m not sure the crocheted coaster set is the path to anything. We assume that women are naturally ‘good’ at artsy creativity and would wish to spend their time with a glue gun rather than, oh, I dunno, improving their education with an income that recognises their actual contribution to her community rather than further stigmatising them with ‘victim crafts’. (Hat tip to Kate Cronin-Furman for this bang-on neologism.) In this scenario you’re going to buy something that someone just learned how to do last week, likely doesn’t have an aptitude for it (because they’re not artisans and didn’t really choose to be in this programme in the first place, right?) and isn’t culturally relevant (beaded table runners made by Tsaatan or Nùng women, perhaps?).
Given that there is a market for victim crafts, then it follows that this market, like any commodity, is subject to supply and demand. What happens when demand falls? For example, when there’s another civil uprising in the country that depends on tourists staying in eco-lodges and purchasing the twig-embossed gift cards made by the ‘victims’ of the last civil uprising. Why not teach these girls (and certainly women) how to weld instead? Now that’s what I call a transferable skill-set. But you still want to buy something to give. Buy something directly (e.g. fabric, bowls, coffee) from the producer instead of an intermediary who takes a cut. How about buying goods from artisans who have spent years honing their craft for a living? Support artist-run galleries and cooperatives. Support tradespeople, their guilds and collectives; take a class from them. If a craft or trade is facing particular extinction, can you help fund a film of the craftsperson in action for posterity? Your office or family or girlfriends can purchase education instead of misery knick-knacks and it never requires dusting. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth
HCMC On The Town
Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.
BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI
107 Truong Dinh, Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU BANH TAM
271 Nguyen Trai, Q1 BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
ZEUS
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
GREEK / KEBAB
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too.
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
BUN CHA HA NOI BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 CHI THONG BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI
ZOOM CAFÉ
195 Co Giang, Q1
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.
M M M STREET FOOD
COM GA XOI MO SU SU VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN
55 Tu Xuong, Q3 COM TAM 40A COM TAM
40A Quoc Huong, Q2 MI QUANG MY SON MI QUANG
38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE
BA GHIEN
189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1
COM TAM
84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan
PHO DAU PHO BO
BA NAM
288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
BO KHO
Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10 BANH CANH HOANG TY
PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE
70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
PHO LE PHO BO
BANH CUON HAI NAM
413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5
BANH CUON
11A Cao Thang, Q3
PHO PHU GIA PHO BO
BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU BANH KHOT
102 Cao Thang, Q3
146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 PHO PHU VUONG 339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh
62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1
SUSHI KO STREET SUSHI
122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4 BANH MI HUYNH HOA ‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI
26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1
THE LUNCH LADY DAILY CHANGING DISHES
23 Hoang Sa, Q1 BANH MI SAU MINH VIETNAMESE BANH MI
170 Vo Van Tan, Q3
Based north of Mui Ne in Central Vietnam, the foundation provides the children with a home, a family and an education.
PHO BO
BANH MI HONG HOA VIETNAMESE BANH MI
Word has teamed up with the Mai Nha Children Foundation to help 20 orphan children to grow up as a family and prepare for their future.
To help fund this programme, for every copy of our Word you get delivered direct to your door, we will donate VND50,000 to Mai Nha. At VND120,000 per month (minimum of six months), this is a small price to pay to help those in need. To arrange your home delivery, simply email trang@wordvietnam.com
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751
For more information on Mai Nha, click on mai-nha.org
wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 183
BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1
PAINTINGS Tran Phu D1 Bui Vien D3
CAMERAS Ton That Thiep C4
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184 | Word November 2015 | wordvietnam.com
TAM
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SHOES Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1, C2 Luu Van Lang C4
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wordvietnam.com | November 2015 Word | 185
Ch ieu
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The Final Say
THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
Visa Privilege
I
If you’re Vietnamese, getting a visa to travel to the West is hard. Getting a visa to the US is even harder. Owen Salisbury helped a friend who went through the visa application experience and was turned down
was 30 the first time I had to apply for a visa. The concept seemed vaguely offensive; why on Earth did I need to ask anyone’s permission to travel? I’d been to 25 countries on three continents, spending money, following laws. Everywhere, visas meant showing up like an unexpected guest, enduring border control’s bored scrutiny, and hearing the stamp thwack in my passport. I was privileged. Extremely so; nor was I to realise how much until I helped my friend Tram* apply for a tourist visa to the United States so she could meet her fiancé’s family. Not to move there; just to visit for a month. Tram has been a friend for four years. With her fiancé temporarily in the US, she asked me to help prepare her tourist (B-1) visa application. The challenges Vietnamese people face when they wish to visit the socalled First World stunned me.
Horror Stories You hear horror stories. Rumours leak from the US Consulate in Ho Chi Minh City, circulating on various Vietnamese websites. This interviewer is nice; this one hates giving out visas. Maybe there’s one who hates Vietnamese people. Bring lots of documents. Documentation doesn’t matter. Recently, rumours have been more hopeful; President Obama has loosened the approval process up, the consulate is freer with the ACCEPTED stamp, people are getting in. Not all. Tram didn’t get her visa. Tram’s story is not unique. Not by a long shot. A friend of a friend, Trang*, tells of a threeminute interview, facing an interviewer as welcoming as a slammed door. She said the interviewer never once looked her in the eye. “She was angry,” Trang says. “Maybe she’s racist.” Another friend, Eddie*, waited two years
to hear from the consulate about his partner’s fiancée (K-1) visa, the most nightmarish option on that menu. By then, the couple were already married — so they canceled the K-1, negated anyway by the passage of time. There’s also the fact that while on the K-1 track, you can’t apply for any other visa. He’s considering a spousal (K-3) visa now, but will wait until they’ve been married three years, because he’s heard that will help his chances. Helping Tram took several evenings, poring over the electronic application pages, triple checking, because, as those horror stories suggest, one error can and probably will disqualify you. Then it’s back to the end of the line, shelling out another US$160 (VND3.5 million) for the privilege of asking to visit the Land of the Free.
Some Make It In Yet some do get approved. An acquaintance, Thuyet*, got in straight away. So did another, Quyen*, who shoved financial documents across the table listing her non-liquid assets before the interviewer could speak. “My husband is American. Maybe that’s why,” she says. She too requested a B-1, good for a year after issuance, as the couple lives in Vietnam. They planned their trip after getting the visa. Another acquaintance, with whom I chatted online as she visited London, offered another perspective. “My family’s rich,” she said. It also seems that once one Western nation admits you — and you depart on schedule — others unfreeze. I’ve heard Vietnamese say that the first visa, like the first child or murder, is the hardest.
A Detailed Look Back to Tram. She’d gathered reams of documents, from family information to financials. The electronic application, though
not difficult, required a tedious amount of data entry. Birthday. Father’s birthday. Mother’s maiden name. She had to visit her hometown, far from Ho Chi Minh City, to get some documents. She spent, she estimates, at least another US$300 (VND6.5 million) gathering facts the US State Department required. For Tram, the hardest part was walking alone into the interview. Applicants must go alone into that important little room where — supposedly — the application is decided. “I felt like they made the decision before I came,” she told me. The interviewer didn’t even glance at Tram’s documents — not the income statement, not the company she co-owned worth almost US$100,000 (VND2.2 billion), not the references from American friends. Yet she doesn’t know why she was rejected. She never will. She can only apply again.
An Opaque Process That must be the hardest part — so little real information escapes. The State Department keeps the process opaque for a reason, as they wish to discourage people from gaming the system — as though a rising Vietnamese star would scheme and cheat to go wash dishes in Skokie or Schenectady. Yet many want to visit. Tram’s hopes for her trip were nearly dashed anyway when she couldn’t get an interview until six months after she requested one, two weeks before the start of her hoped-for trip. “I’ll try again,” Tram said. Would she do anything different next time? She pauses for a long time. “Have more money. Hire a lawyer. And not think I’ll succeed.” *All the names in this article have been changed
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The Final Say THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
On The Run With the immigration crisis in full swing, we raise a question. Why do expats coming from lands of plenty choose to live in countries such as Vietnam? Words by Alex Smyrnos
E
very expat has a reason for leaving their home country and living in Vietnam. Some will admit this, others will not and a large percentage of expats are in complete denial, subconsciously unaccepting that they’ve fled anything. They just ‘like it here’. For my first week in the country, I was a member of the third camp. Quickly however, my feelings changed and I now resonate with the foremost category; I am aware and accepting that I’m ‘running’ from something, just unknowing of what I’m running towards. For the past 17 years, my life has been filled with promising academic milestones. In 2014 this ended and graduation from university took place — an event I viewed as a rigid bridge into the world of taxes, 40-plus hour work weeks, 401ks and road rage. From there, the integrity of milestones frayed: Get a job; get a promotion; make money and then make more money; strive for higher apartment windows and more exotic vacation destinations. And start a family. Apart from the last one, this new round of milestones appeared more as a pile of rubble than a pattern that, as a society, we should be encouraging or attempting to practice — the rewards are superficial, the demands likely only to increase. For these reasons, I am now seeking an alternative route and oddly, Vietnam is the starting path.
entered the corporate rat race. Here, the pace of life is slower, appreciation for small talk and friends higher. Boredom doesn’t appear to exist and generosity runs rampant. As is often the case, those who have less actually have more. With this aura, in a society where coffee is a pastime and people live in the present, the need for contrived satisfaction begins to dissipate. Additionally and just as important, as an expat on the right side of financial inequality, necessities — shelter, food, water and livelihood, are easily taken care of and other ‘needs,’ such as desires and
outside the confines of the familiar. Here, in a place unlike any other I’ve lived in before, I do not know myself in such a context, and this is a beautiful feeling. Because I am far removed from my normal reality, it is easier to be me, to be whoever I actually am. Most attributes have stayed at home — my fears, doubts, typecasts from others, etc. My humour and immense joy of interacting with strangers has remained, and my ability to tackle the unknown and thrive without a plan is flourishing. (The latter is something I would previously have never associated with myself). So, in Vietnam, perhaps I am running towards the person I’ve always been, dismissing misguided milestones along the way; shedding all the artificial layers that have blocked my true self from the world, stripping down to the fundamental me. Most expats are doing the same to some degree, running along their own haywire path. They’re tired of home; fed up with miserable jobs, stressful family matters or simply unsatisfied with their own state of affairs. The reason to depart is not always because of something terrible or negative, but we all do leave for some reason. Anyone who thinks otherwise is mistaken; we go on vacations to get away, we read novels to escape reality and indulge in narcotics to alter reality. We do something to “get away” — in our case, we have moved to Vietnam. As for the ‘I just like it here’ crowd, they may have moved physically, but do they gain anything if they deny any reasons exist for leaving? They’re the same person they were at home; suppressed in a false identity they’ve come to accept, continuing to exhibit characteristics and behaviours produced out of fear and other un-dealt with emotions. Ignorance is bliss, but it can often also be destructive. For these expats, they’re not running towards anything — they’re skipping backwards and obtaining a nice tan. The opinions expressed here are those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Word Vietnam
“Currently, I am six weeks into my sabbatical of self-exploration… I am re-evaluating established milestones and discovering a more satisfying way of living. I am also reassessing who I am, shedding labels that once felt comforting but now feel unauthentic and constricting”
Less is More There are the obvious benefits in settling here; the cost of living is significantly cheaper compared to Western countries, jobs are abundant for English-speaking expats, the beaches are beautiful, and a beer costs less than US$1 (VND22,500). (If Vietnam were a college, I presume applications would easily surpass that of Harvard’s). There are other reasons for Vietnam’s appeal. The Vietnamese, while typically collecting a mere $US200 (VND4.5 million) a month, appear far happier than my former classmates who have enthusiastically
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anxieties, can be focused on (if I choose to acknowledge them). At home, with a degree and debt, a US$40,000 (VND900 million) per year salary will not allow for such exploring. In Vietnam, the circumstances are different.
A New Me Currently, I am six weeks into my sabbatical of self-exploration. I am running towards a better sense of understanding — reevaluating established milestones and hopefully discovering a more satisfying way of living. I am also reassessing who I am, shedding labels that once felt comforting but now feel unauthentic and constricting. I relinquish ‘Alex from New Hampshire’, daughter of ‘mom and dad’, college graduate, etc. Instead, I am just Alex. Who am I when stripped of the identity that has been applied by others, some fragments cemented since or before my birth? I want to understand myself and my behaviour
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The Final Say
THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War 190 | Word November 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Chapter 14: Coups in Saigon For the next two issues, Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchett’s seminal account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s. This work was written in 1964 The End of the Diem Regime
PROTEST
It was the unbroken series of military defeats since Ap Bac that spelled the doom of the Diemist regime, not the repression of Buddhists and students. For over 12 months, the American press had been more and more openly critical of Diem’s ineptitude in handling the war, of his resistance to U.S. strategy and tactics. The mixture of medieval and fascist police methods he used to repress all whom he considered his opponents, for the most part, went unnoticed in the U.S. press, or was reported approvingly. But he was losing the war, and this was a real crime. “Can We Win With Diem?” was the title over one anguished editorial in the New York Times, hinting at the shape of things to come. The papers were full of wrangles between Harkins and Diem’s top military officers, and of Diem’s resistance to a complete takeover of military affairs by the Americans. These were the real issues. The suppression of the Buddhists would have gone unnoticed — it had been going on for years — had it not been for official U.S. dissatisfaction with Diem, plus the fact that the Liberation Front’s organisation in Saigon went into action. The latter broadened the demand for more religious freedom into one for democratic liberties as a whole, and called out its supporters in vast mass demonstrations that ended in fierce street battles with the police. The size of the demonstrations, the energy and militancy of the crowds, was a great shock to the U.S. command in Saigon. The Viet Cong
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NGUYEN HUU THO
was right amongst them, in Saigon itself, in many tens of thousands, slugging it out with Diem’s shock troops. Diem was not only losing the battle in the countryside; he was losing it in Saigon itself. He had to go. But official U.S. opinion was not unanimous about this. The Pentagon wanted Diem disciplined, but not out and dead. Harkins in fact was against the coup. His own argument with Diem was on two main points. Harkins wanted to cut losses; to pull out of hundreds of those encircled posts. He correctly regarded them as “arms supply points” for the Liberation forces; they tied up dozens of his helicopters in daily supply operations. But Diem opposed this; it meant abandoning even nominal control in much of the richest part of the country, because it was precisely from Mekong Delta areas that Harkins proposed withdrawing. Even Harkins’ promise to win it back later with the mobile reserves accumulated from the “unemployed” garrisons did not impress Diem. Diem also resisted Harkins’ other demand, that U.S. officers should have complete operational control, down to company level, and administrative control at district level — about the extreme limit to which the “special war” could be pushed.
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Harkins was confident that with enough pressures applied, Diem would give way. He was against the coup and in this he was supported by a very mediocre brigadiergeneral, Nguyen Khanh, who had been rapidly promoted by Diem after he played a vital role in saving the latter in the abortive officers’ coup in November 1960. Nguyen Khanh was Harkins’ closest friend among the Diemist officers. The State Department demanded the coup, however, and it was Ambassador Cabot Lodge’s role to be at his new post in time to arrange it. The State Department had become convinced that “we cannot win with Diem” and the suppression of the Buddhists and jailing of thousands of students from “respectable” Saigon families was hurting U.S. relations with other Buddhist states. More embarrassing still and decisive for the State Department was that the matter of persecution of the Buddhists was before the United Nations; by the skin of their teeth, American UN officials avoided a vote and had the matter temporarily shelved. But a UN mission of inquiry was already in Saigon. The State Department wanted, needed desperately in fact, to have Diem overthrown and thus liquidate half a dozen embarrassing problems with one coup. So
the Buddhist crisis, though not the cause of Diem’s downfall, probably fixed the date. Cabot Lodge’s “two men in Saigon” were Generals Duong Van Minh and Tran Van Don, both of them southerners as opposed to Centralists like Diem and others with whom leading posts in the army and bureaucracy were staffed. The CIA, usually so enthusiastic where coups are concerned, was divided about this one. The chief of the CIA in Saigon was against the coup and was subsequently packed off home by Cabot Lodge. Many top CIA men thought Diem was ‘‘too good to lose”, and from their point of view they were right. Those in the CIA Saigon team who favoured the coup had as their man Major General Ton That Dinh, a Centralist feudalist like Diem, a ferocious anti-Communist and, as Diem’s Acting Chief of Staff, in a position to move the divisions about. How the coup was carried out, Ngo Dinh Diem and his notorious brother Nhu murdered, is past history and better known than its background, though it quickly faded out of the world headlines after another more important president fell to an assassin’s bullet just ten days later. In the first month that followed the murder of the Ngo brothers, the guerillas cut great chunks out of all roads leading from Saigon towards the Mekong Delta, turning some sections back into waterlogged rice fields. They blew up railway bridges and built dams across canals, planting banana palms and bushes on top of them; cut or blocked all road, rail and river communications, and launched a great campaign to wipe out posts and dismantle strategic hamlets. Virtually all posts in the Delta became dependent on helicopter-borne or parachuted supplies. By the time some of the communications had been restored, a great number of former strategic villages had been converted into “fortified villages”; posts that used to control them were now controlled themselves, with guns pointing at them from all directions. All the bright predictions after the fall of Diem that “military action will be immediately stepped up” were correct but in a contrary sense to that intended. The initiative was with the Front. Lots of operations were launched by Saigon, true, but they all ended in failure. From the month starting Nov. 25, 1963, the U.S.-Saigon forces launched 180 operations, many of them involving three to seven battalions in Tan An and Cholon provinces, one of the main gateways to Saigon. In counter-attacks, the guerillas destroyed a dozen posts — 20 more had to be abandoned; 82 strategic hamlets were either dismantled and peasants went back to their original villages or were converted into “resistance” villages. “In that month of November,” said President Nguyen Huu Tho, “the Liberation armed forces and the population destroyed 1,662 strategic hamlets; wiped out hundreds of posts; in Cochinchina alone we wiped out or the enemy was forced to abandon 401 posts, including very important ones
PLAN OF ATTACK
NLF IN ACTION
SINGING TO VICTORY
BOMBED VILLAGE
in My Tho, Long An, Ben Tre and Ca Mau provinces. During that same month our compatriots and troops killed 5,495 soldiers and officers, including 31 Americans; wounded 2,849, including 15 Americans; captured 990, of them four Americans; seized 2,172 arms of all types, including 16 mortars, 47 machine guns and automatic fines; knocked down 32 planes and helicopters and damaged 30 others. Apart from this, 6,358 enemy soldiers and officers deserted.” And he went on to list some important battles in which the Front had come off on top. Those happy U.S. voices after Diem’s downfall started now to sing another tune. “During the next six months,” commented the New York Times on Dec. 9, only five weeks after the coup, “the new government faces an uphill struggle to regain the initiative.” The military junta never regained the initiative nor did it last six months. General Harkins and Nguyen Khanh were working quietly in the background. They could both say, “I told you so” to Cabot Lodge, as the military reverses piled up. Within the junta, formed mainly by Minh, Dinh and Don, a fight for power was going on; as they were all of the same rank and none had any more prestige than the other. There was a complete deadlock.
The Khanh Coup Nguyen Khanh and Harkins were now plotting to overthrow the junta generals and Khanh promised that he would give Hoang
the job as premier. So preparations for a new coup went ahead; its code name should have been “Harkins’ Revenge”. Khanh was prepared to accept what the junta was still resisting, a pilot plan under which U.S. officers would take over complete operational and administrative control in 28 districts, Saigon officers and troops to be placed unreservedly at their disposal, and to have Nguyen Ton Hoang as prime minister. U.S. Defense Secretary McNamara came to Saigon at the end of the year and Newsweek of Jan. 5, 1964, quoted him as telling the junta generals: “The dry season has started and pursuit of the enemy is easier than ever. Forget your concern for casualties and fight the war as if it were your last chance — for well it might be.” And well it was. On Jan. 17, the “greatest heliborne assault in military history,” as UPI described it, was launched at Thanh Phu, in Ben Tre province. Fifty helicopters, 3,000 troops, 26 M-113 tanks, 26 naval soft and dozens of planes were employed against what was described as a guerrilla base. This was to be the supreme justification for Harkins’ “withdraw, concentrate and reoccupy” tactic. The mobile “strike force” had been knocked together from the withdrawn garrisons. The Liberation forces allowed the first four waves of helicopters to come in, then opened up on the fifth wave, knocking down two and damaging 15. Had they wanted to avoid combat, of course, they could have opened up on the first wave
and with such helicopter losses the battle would have ended then and there. “One of the worst days of the war in U.S. helicopter operations,” reported AP. As the assault waves moved up, the defenders waited until the officers, urging the troops on from behind with weapons ready to shoot any who wavered, were also within range. The defenders then opened up and the assault wave mumbled. This started the classic pattern: more bombing and shelling; attacks from the centre, from the right flank, the left flank; extreme right and left flanks together, and bomb and shell barrages in between. The action lasted two days before it was broken off by the Saigon forces. U.S. reports called the results — apart from the “blackest days ever in helicopter losses” — “meagre and disappointing”. In fact it was a shattering defeat. The junta had obeyed McNamara’s instructions to forget their “concern for casualties”. The Saigon forces lost around 600 killed and wounded, according to Liberation Front figures. The junta’s chief of staff, Le Van Kim, who personally commanded the action, went back to Saigon to brood over matters with his fellow junta members. Did this mean they had lost their last chance? About ten days after the Thanh Phu debacle, there was a stormy session of the military junta. President de Gaulle, in the meantime, had launched his bombshell about neutrality for Southeast Asia, including South Vietnam. Half a dozen Saigon papers
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had just been closed down for mentioning the possibility of a neutralist solution. But the junta chiefs, all of them French-trained, discussed the impossible military situation and inevitability of a negotiated settlement based on some form of neutrality. Not that they all agreed on this; some, like Nguyen Khanh, fiercely opposed the idea. But Minh, Don, Dinh and Kim supported it in various degrees. This was sufficient for Harkins to break down any last resistance from Ambassador Lodge to a sort of “back to Diemism” coup — back to individual strongman dictatorship rather than muddled junta dictatorship and flirtations with neutralism. Khanh was to be the new military chief, ready to accept without reserve U.S. direction of the war at all levels; Nguyen Ton Hoang would be made premier and some sort of a political machine would be brought back into the picture. So, while Harkins was conveniently “out of town,” the coup was made, no one firing a shot in defense of the junta. The leading junta generals were all arrested. They had “had their chance” and muffed it. Nguyen Khanh, however, once in power, proved to be a reluctant puppet in one matter. Lodge’s consent had been obtained in return for the promise of some pretense of a civilian regime. Harkins probably did not care a fig about this, so Nguyen Khanh refused. He would not divide power. He would be military and civilian chief; it is the latter job that yields rich financial rewards from handling U.S. dollar aid. He did bow to pressure, however, to release Duong Van Minh, the former junta chief, from house arrest, and make him a figure-head “chief of state,” with no powers at all.
Liberation Front’s Assessment After Khanh had been in power for a month or so, I asked President Nguyen Huu Tho if he could sum up, from the Liberation Front viewpoint, the result of the two coups. “They were gifts from heaven for us,” he said. “Our enemy has been seriously weakened from all points of view, military, political and administrative. Their armed forces have suffered heavy losses on the battlefield and from desertions. The special shock troops that were an essential support for the Diem regime have been eliminated. The military command has been turned upside down and weakened by purges. “For the same reasons, the coercive apparatus, set up over the years with great care by Diem, is utterly shattered, especially at the base. The principal chiefs of security and the secret police, on which mainly depended the protection of the regime and the repression of the revolutionary movement, have been eliminated, purged. “Troops, officers and officials of the army and administration are completely lost; they have no more confidence in their chiefs and have no idea to whom they should be loyal. Their morale, already shattered even before these events because of the repeated victories of the patriotic forces, has fallen to a new low.”
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When I asked Tran Nam Trung, of the People’s Revolutionary Party, what he thought of the results of the coups he was even more forthright. “The Americans were accusing Diem and Nhu of responsibility for the defeats; Diem and Nhu were accusing the Americans. The Americans were demanding they adopt more up-to-date policies in order to pull the wool over the eyes of the people; they wanted to check the falling morale and also to hand over to more docile puppets. So they chose the dangerous course of ‘changing horses in midstream.’ “But in fact,” said this veteran revolutionary, “they will search in vain for a more efficient horse than Diem. With all his faults and criminal stupidities, in nine years Diem did succeed in setting up and maintaining an army, an administration and some sort of a political machine, with all the reins of power in his hands. One U.S. idea — probably Lodge’s too — was that it would be enough to get rid of brother Nhu and this would make Diem more docile. Nhu, although a champion anti-Communist, was regarded as a ‘hard head,’ a ‘tough nut’ who obstinately refused to be docile enough in executing Washington’s orders, especially towards the end. But the first coup went a bit contrary to Washington’s expectations. It was the military who did it and they wiped out Diem as well as Nhu. “Each of the three groups among the junta generals had his own satellites fighting for him within the army and administration and that is why there was complete confusion there and a total lack of confidence in the power at the Center. It explains also how we were able to exploit the situation for large-scale activities in the countryside and in Saigon itself. Many hundreds of strategic hamlets’ were liberated in groups of ten and 20 at a time and we scored important military victories on all fronts. In Saigon factories, universities and schools, there was a big upsurge of activity by workers, especially the textile workers, by teachers and students, struggling for improved economic conditions, democratic freedoms, a purging of police spies in their organizations. “A new and important development is the very strong movement for ‘peace and neutrality’ among different sections of the urban population. This movement, in fact, started several years ago, but in the crisis that followed the two coups it was possible to transform this into a very strong mass movement. There is great scope now for radical activity in the cities, based on the struggle for democratic liberties and improved living conditions. The press is already raising its voice in this sense, demanding an end to censorship, among other things. The enemy was unable to stabilize the situation after the first coup; in all fields, but especially the military one, things had taken a rapid turn for the worse. That was the reason for the second coup, plus the fact that the Americans wanted a more docile servant, a more efficient puppet free of suspected pro-French leanings.”
Another point made by the Front leaders was that U.S. prestige among some sections of the population rose slightly after the anti-Diem coup, because Diem was so hated that “nothing could be worse”. Similarly, Duong Van Minh gained a certain amount of prestige because he had got rid of Diem. So popular feeling was against Nguyen Khanh from the start, especially when he arrested Minh and killed the latter’s bodyguard because it was he who had executed Diem and Nhu. Anger against the U.S. then rose to new heights because it was so clear to everyone that this was an authentic “made in USA” coup. “We had little difficulty in persuading people of this,” said Nguyen Huu Tho, “but the greatest gift for us was when McNamara came and toured the countryside, holding up Nguyen Khanh’s arm and shouting, ‘This is our man.’ This saved our propaganda cadres a great deal of effort.” McNamara felt it was necessary to come and “sell” Nguyen Khanh to the population; to assure them in a dozen different variants that Khanh had the complete backing of the U.S., precisely because Washington knew that he had no popular support at home. But he was the one general prepared to continue “killing Communists” on U.S. terms. “He doesn’t need your support, he’s got ours,” was what McNamara was saying in effect to the South Vietnamese people. However, when Khanh’s troops refused to go into action and, despite some extra blood money, the rate of desertions was sharply stepped up, Washington probably realised that something more than only their support was needed. The political vacuum seated by the dismantling of all Diemist organizations has not been filled, nor can it be within a short time. Washington is aware of the desperate weakness that results from this and Americans on the spot have been thrashing round to try and fill the vacuum. Immediately after Khanh took over, U.S. correspondents wrote that he was the man to rally the sects and within days there were announcements that this or that Cao Daist or Hoa Hao leader had rallied to Khanh. As the sects had previously been crushed by Diem with U.S. arms and official U.S. approval, the new hopes smelt of cynicism. But within seven days of taking over, Khanh’s American-piloted air force had dropped 60 tons of bombs on Ben Can, the second largest Cao Dai center after Tay Ninh — in Saigoncontrolled territory — burning out 1,000 homes, killing 84 and wounding 200 people. There was such a tremendous outburst of rage that Khanh, Cabot Lodge and Harkins rushed to Tay Ninh and promised to pay 2,000 piastres for every adult and 1,000 for every child killed, while photographers took pictures of Khanh handing out candy to Tay Ninh children. As the uproar continued, even at a public meeting addressed by Khanh, the price of South Vietnamese corpses was raised to 5,000 piastres for an adult and 2,000 for a child. The other political force on which U.S.
ROAD DESTRUCTION
hopes are based is the Dai Viet party mentioned earlier. A tiny party without any grass roots support at all — ”dollar hunters par excellence,” as Trung expressed it — the Dai Viet is already split into several factions, each of whom has its nominee for future premier. One of them, Nguyen Chanh Thi who helped organise the abortive officers’ coup in November 1960, tried his luck again on February 10, 1964, against Khanh, eleven days after the latter took over. He was doubtless encouraged by the ease with which Khanh had done the job, but he failed again. But even if a Dai Viet coup succeeded, it cannot fill the gap caused by the dismantling of the Diemist organizations nor can it pretend to represent even a class in Vietnamese society. As a counter to the Front, it would be like “trying to push back the ocean with a fire hose,” as one of the Saigon Liberation Front leaders said. And the junta generals? All jailed within three months for having hitched their stars to the State Department and some of them were very lucky to have had only their immediate underlings executed and not themselves. And Nguyen Khanh himself? Could he have felt very safe when his chief
backer, comrade-in-arms and co-plotter was relieved of his Saigon command in May 1964? Khanh knew the reason why! Because he, General Nguyen Khanh, who had made the most fire-eating speeches about “crushing Communists,” suffered more defeats faster than any of his predecessors. If Khanh did not realise that by mid-1964 the CIA experts were thumbing through the dossiers of generals and colonels for the next choice, he must have been naive in the extreme. The CIA, incidentally, had not yet had its coup. If Washington was then having difficulty in persuading a new figure to have a try, the dilemma of even those avid for power at any price must be recognised. A major effort to coordinate State Department and Pentagon policies was the appointment in June 1964 of General Maxwell Taylor, Chairman of the U.S. Joint Chiefs of Staff and chief ideologist of the “special war”, as a sort of super-ambassador in Saigon to replace Cabot Lodge. Maxwell Taylor thus had military and civil affairs in his hand: a striking parallel to what the French government had done just ten years previously when they sent their Chief of Staff, General Paul Ely, to Saigon to take over
civilian and military authority. In sending General Taylor as ambassador, President Johnson was saying to him in effect: “You got us into this mess, now get us out of it.” Just as “special war” was Taylor’s brainchild, the main strategy for winning it — the Staley-Taylor plan of 1961 — was also co-fathered by him. Both had failed. General Taylor is doubtless a good general; so was France’s de Lattre de Tassigny, but he was sent on a hopeless mission. The most brilliant strategies and tactics could not be effective when Washington had already lost the battle for the minds of the people of South Vietnam. Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter often described at the ‘rebel journalist’ for his stories about the American War ‘from the other side’. After years of being at odds with the Australian government, last year the Melbourne Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame. Burchett was also the journalist to break the scoop of the 20th century — the devastation caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing us to republish this work. Please note that some of the language in this piece has been changed to reflect its modern-day spelling
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The Final Say
Ten 10
Word magazine has been published in Vietnam for over 10 years. So, to celebrate a decade of people making the impossible somehow possible, we are speaking to business owners here who have been operating through good times and bad for over 10 years. First up, Jimmy Pham, founder of nonprofit social enterprise KOTO — Know One, Teach One — a vocational training programme serving at-risk and disadvantaged youth How difficult was it to start KOTO? What specific challenges did you face from the beginning? I first came to Vietnam in 1996 as a tour operator. I stumbled across a group of youth selling coconuts on the streets, 15 hours a day they’d be out there, living hand to mouth. I just wanted to make a difference. So I took them and 60 other kids to dinner for the next two weeks. I didn’t set out to start a project as big as KOTO. It just grew based on a clear vision. KOTO started by empowering nine youths via a training-oriented sandwich stall. To say the first two years were a challenge would be an understatement. The youths had problems. You name it: pregnancy, violence. Even my house was ransacked. Eventually, I became mentally, physically and emotionally drained. Let’s just say things were very different when I first arrived. I’m glad things have progressed so much since then. Plus, charity was unheard of in Vietnam at the time.
Over the past 16 years, how have the original aims of KOTO changed? Certain things have changed but our original mission remains the same. We believe at-risk and disadvantaged youth everywhere should have access to a holistic programme that provides career training and life skills in a nurturing environment.
How has your role changed during this time? Dana McNairn was appointed Chief Executive Officer of KOTO in March of this year. She provides the day-to-day executive leadership of our two divisions, KOTO Enterprises and KOTO Foundation. This was a necessary strategic change to enable KOTO to further expand and develop its impact potential. As a part of the strategic changes, I’ve taken on a new role as KOTO’s Global Ambassador. I continue to serve as Executive Chairman of the KOTO Board of Trustees.
What have been the biggest difficulties you have faced during this time period? How have you overcome them? There have been the usual challenges of building a larger organisation; managing more people and offering more products and services. But we’re growing along with
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the hospitality and tourism industry in Vietnam. Nearly 600 graduates later, I’m seeing trainees with their own families and breaking the cycle of poverty, which gives me great joy. But it has also given me incredible sorrow and sadness because I’ve seen so much pain that can be caused to a kid.
What success stories have you had? We have nearly 600 success stories!
Why is KOTO important for Vietnam? Youth here represent nearly 20 percent of Vietnam’s population, yet they’re disproportionately represented among the unemployed. So, while the unemployment rate has been relatively stable over the last decade, somewhere around 3%, it is believed that nearly half of the country’s unemployed are between the ages of 15 and 24. Our vision is to create a clear direction for trainees, transforming them from unemployed people lacking skills, to professionals in the hospitality industry who go on to work all over Vietnam and internationally.
What role do you feel you’ve had in the development of this country? We are a sustainable solution to ending the cycle of poverty by providing youth with personal and professional development. We empower them to transform their lives.
With so much competition, even within your own industry, how have you managed to stay ahead of the game in recent years? In advancing human dignity, there is no competition. One more kid off the streets or out of an exploitative environment is what we are all trying to achieve. Now if you mean competition with restaurants, well sure, but our restaurants tell a better story. Food purchases at our restaurants support kids and their families, and ultimately, their communities.
Are you excited about the proposed legislative changes happening with social enterprises in Vietnam? Yes! Article 10 of the new Law on Enterprises recognises social enterprises as being distinct in purpose, and in their use of distributed profits, compared to a regular business. This resonates today. Time and experience has proven that traditional charity models satisfy needs in the short term, but often don’t address long-term problems like intergenerational poverty. For further information, visit koto.com.au or head to KOTO’s restaurants at Top Floor, Kumho Link, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, HCMC or 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Hanoi